A p u b l i c a tion of the B r o w a r d C o u n t y H i s t o r i c a l C o m m i s s i o n

volume 30 • number 1 • 2010

Pembroke Pines I Remember When: The Early Years

The City That Almost Wasn’t

Past and Present

The Pembroke Pines Historical Museum

Old Walls

Pinus Elliotti, var. densa, c. 1980. Book Review (Photo by Gerry Witoshynsky) A publication of the B r o w a r d C o u n t y H i s t o r i c a l C o m m i s s i o n

A service of the Broward County Board of County Commissioners Bertha Henry County Administrator Broward County Board of County Commissioners volume • number • Sue Gunzburger 30 1 2010 Dale V.C. Holness Kristin Jacobs Chip LaMarca f e a t u r e s Ilene Lieberman Stacy Ritter John E. Rodstrom, Jr. Barbara Sharief Lois Wexler Pembroke Pines: I Remember When: The Early Years Broward County Historical By Gerry Witoshynsky Commissioners Hazel K. Armbrister, Chair Page 2 Thomas A. Hasis, Vice Chai Wendy Wangberg, Secretary Phyllis Loconto James Bradley John P. Barranco Paul Callsen Pembroke Pines Betty Whatley Cobb The City That Almost Wasn’t William G. Crawford, Jr. Maureen Dinnen By Joe Knetsch Wally Elfers Page 8 Steve Glassman Elsie Johns Bill Julian Carl Lanke Dawn LaVoir Christopher Ryan Pembroke Pines Marla Sherman Dumas Richard Singer Past and Present By Gerry Witoshynsky Broward Historical Commission Staff Page 10 Dave Baber, Administrator Denyse Cunningham, Editor, Curator Helen Landers, Broward County Historian Matthew DeFelice, County Archeologist Marcia Seldine, Administrative Coordinator The Pembroke Pines

ON THE COVER: Historical Museum Pembroke Pines City Hall, South view, 2001 (Photo by Gerry Witoshynsky) By Gerry Witoshynsky Page 23 Copyright 2010, by the Broward County Historical Commission. All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means, whether graphic, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping or information and retrieval systems, without permission of the publisher. Old Walls Broward Legacy is published annually by the Broward County Historical Commission. Location and mailing By John Fritchey address: Page 24 Broward County Historical Museum 301 S.W. 13th Avenue Fort Lauderdale, FL 33312 Phone: 954-357-5553 • FAX: 954-357-5522 Annual subscriptions and back issues are available. Unless otherwise noted, photographs are from the archives of the Historical Commission. Book Review Neither the Board of County Commissioners of Broward By William G. Crawford, Jr. County, Florida, nor the Broward County Historical Commission is responsible for the statements, Page 27 conclusions or observations herein contained, such matters being the sole responsibility of the authors. This public document was promulgated at a cost of $804.00, or $2.01 per copy, to provide historical information to the public about Broward County. Pembroke Pines I Remember When: The Early Years By Gerry Witoshynsky

A Pembroke Pines pioneer resident, Gerry Witoshynsky has been Pembroke Pines City Historian since 1995 and Historical Society/Museum Director since 1980. She was a Broward County Historical Commissioner from 1984 to 1988. Dr. and Mrs. Walter Seth Kipnis had relatives in Hollywood that they wanted to live nearby. They found their perfect spot in the Pembroke Pines #1 subdivision, about 10 blocks west of State Road 441. The streets were crushed limestone laid out in a former cow pasture. The area was pancake-flat and described as “high dry pineland,” 10 feet above sea level. The Kipnises tell the story that they bought their lot in 1954, went north for a time and when they returned, the Turnpike had been built on the eastern border of the new community! Two of the Kipnis’ neighbors were Albertus “Bert” Vogt and his wife Helene. Bert was an engineer who worked at the water pumping station at Holiday Park on the western end of Griffin Road. Bert’s dad, Albertus Vogt, Sr., was a flamboyant Florida character involved in the early phosphate deposits Estelle Kipnis (l), Bert and Helen industry in Polk County, Florida, in the 1800s. Vogt, c. 1980. (Photo by Gerry My husband Alex and I bought a residential lot in Pembroke Witoshynsky) Pines in 1956, and moved into our completed house in March 1957. There was no city. It was just a group of homes built in plats of Pembroke Pines #1, Pembroke Pines #2 and Pembroke Ranches, started by the Flamingo Development Company in 1954.

Home of Dr. and Mrs. Walter Seth Kipnis, Southwest 13th Street in Pembroke Pines, c. 1950s. (Image courtesy of Pembroke Pines Historical Museum) 2 • Broward Legacy feet wide by 105 feet deep. The house was 1,000 square feet with two bedrooms and one and a half baths, and as first time homebuyers, to us it was wonderful! It was many years before we filled it with furniture and four children. My daughter, Mary, was born at Mercy Hospital in Miami in November 1957. I remember that 1957-58 winter for another reason—it was cold! We had to run the gas wall heater most of the winter. A 2010 Miami Herald article confirms 1957-58 as a record cold winter. Two-year-old Mary in her red wagon and I would tour the new homes in the area. We watched the road building equipment as it scraped the new streets for the Pasadena Homes section from Southwest 9th Street to Hollywood Boulevard. This was the first major planned development of multiple acres that would become common as the city moved westward. Other new neighbors eventually joined us — the Nortons; Bob and Ginny Neff across the street; and the Bells next door. I was disappointed when their house was built as it blocked my view of the beautiful sunsets. Planes and Blimps North Perry Airport, a World War II facility created as an auxiliary of Miami Naval Air Station in 1942, was a square mile property west of Southwest 72nd Avenue. The Broward County Aviation Department received the property from the U.S. Navy in 1957. One- and two- engine private planes used the field. The planes flew eastward over our Southwest 10th Street home. I got to know which planes where which by the sound of the motors. When I heard something unusual, I ran outside to see what new aircraft was going over. Once it was a twin engine DC-3. One winter a fabulously preserved Ford Tri-Motor plane stayed at the airport. My sons, John and Mike, and I went for a Pinus Elliottii, var densa, c. 1980. (Photo by Gerry Witoshynsky) ride in it, putt-putting along at a speed that seemed barely able to keep us airborne! When we moved into our Southwest known as Dade County Pine or Caribbean John and Mike loved what they named 10th Street house, we had one neighbor: Pine. We learned this valuable tree was the “orange-green dive bomber,” a post Ruth Pearce and her mother Daisy Von prized for its lumber that was impervious World War II training plane; it made such Schleider. There were people to the to the voracious local termites. The lot we a glorious roar as it departed the runway! \ south, at the rear of Southwest 10th Court chose had two fine specimens. We had one Each winter a parade of blimps would and a few dozen homes farther south, removed from our front yard, something dock at North Perry Airport to advertise surrounded by magnificent live oak trees I regret to this day. for national corporations and to provide and mature pine trees. These are the now Many of the first homes were built TV coverage of golf tournaments and rare Pinus elliottii, var densa, commonly on 90 or 125 foot lots, but ours was 60 Volume 30 • Number 1 • Broward Legacy • 3 Everglades plus water equals alligators! Not as numerous now as they once were, they still show themselves. A special incident was caught by a newspaperman’s camera when a large specimen crawled halfway up a Pembroke Lakes resident’s door and noisily scratched at it. The invader eventually left to return to a nearby lake. One day while I was in our City Hall on the sixth floor, I looked down at the waterway in the front of the building. In a rough spot on the east bank lay an alligator, sunning itself. The Beginnings of City Facilities

Pembroke Pines Public Library, Originally a Developer’s Showroom, 1983. Pembroke Pines was progressive (Photo by Gerry Witoshynsky) in its development of planned unit Super Bowls. I think I have photos of all flock of cedar waxwings – most unusual developments (PUDs), such as Pembroke 17 of them, plus some aerial shots from visitors. Some winters when the weather Lakes and Grand Palms. Condominiums two of them when Alex and I were invited was especially bad in the north, flocks were popular with retirees from northern by the airport manager to take rides. of robins would come to South Florida. cities. The community was innovative in the creation of its charter school system, Animals, Birds, Snakes and Alligators They would eat the overripe red berries of the non-native Florida holly and become to provide educational facilities when A not uncommon sight was a parade intoxicated. our growth outdistanced the ability of dairy cows walking down the street. of Broward County to fund and build They would escape from McArthur’s For years, we had black snakes that schools. occasionally showed themselves. Tiny dairy farm north of Southwest 9th Street We were fortunate to have Pines to Hollywood Boulevard. The farm bright green snakes also lived in the yard, as well as foot-long dark grey snakes with Elementary School built a few blocks east workers would have to come and retrieve at Southwest 9th Street and Southwest them. A resident on Southwest 12th Street bright orange rings around their necks. Not so welcome non-native Bufo marinus 66th Avenue. Mary, John, Mike and our once found a cow in his swimming pool! fourth son, Tom could walk the few blocks Jack rabbits and burrowing owls lived toads would appear; they were poisonous and could sicken dogs that bit them. to the school. The Pines Village area at North Perry Airport. The jack rabbits eventually expanded with the building were thought to have escaped from the In the 1990s, bright green Knight’s of the Pasadena Homes from Southwest many brought here to act as lures for anoles lizards began appearing. In the 9th Street to Hollywood Boulevard. racing greyhounds at Miami tracks. A 2000s, iguanas became common. During Southwest 72nd Avenue was extended prairie dog (or woodchuck) lived behind the cold spells of 2009-2010, many were from Southwest 9th Street to Hollywood the baseball fields at Kennedy Park. found comatose or dead. Boulevard, whereas before we had to drive Several residents had horses that they Pembroke Pines from University to Pembroke Road, east to State Road 441 stabled west of University Drive. They Drive westward was part of the Everglades. and then north to the small shops just west would ride them around the neighborhood. I never saw or heard of any panthers or bobcats in the Village, but they must have roamed the open areas west of the airport. Raccoons, possums and eventually grey squirrels were commonly seen, and the birds were great friends! We put out food for them until the local cats became a danger. Cardinals, sparrows, blue jays and mourning doves were numerous. Nighthawks, also called mosquito hawks, flew at dusk. Brilliantly colored and handsome new residents, spotted-breasted orioles were seen in the neighborhood in the morning and late afternoon, indicating their presence by a distinctive, melodious song. In the winter, we often saw birds such as painted buntings, and I remember a Pines Village Residence in Original Pembroke Pines Plat #2, 1957. (Photo by Gerry Witoshynsky) 4 • Broward Legacy Ford Tri-Motor plane, c. early 1990s (Photo by Gerry Witoshynsky) of the Florida Turnpike on Hollywood with lawns suffering from lack of water. Government and Politics Boulevard. Usually we would drive to Our water came from the Welwyn The Kipnises were world travelers Publix grocery stores several miles away. plant, located in what became a part of before settling in Pines Village in their The closest pharmacy was on State Road the City of Miramar, and operated by custom-built ranch style home at the 441. Broward County. Barely a trickle could corner of Southwest 13th Street and As a fledgling community in the early be coaxed from the garden hoses to water Southwest 69th Avenue. They inspired the 1960s, we did not have any facilities. the lawns and many people invested in first residents’ organization, the Pembroke The county allowed us to create ball pumps for lawn care. The local ladies Pines Civic Association, formed in fields on the east side of the airport and started a garden club to encourage home 1957. The group was responsible for the the West Hollywood Community Center landscaping. Resident Ashley Hale, who incorporation attempt of 1959, which was built on Hollywood Boulevard west served on the City Council, drove a city failed, and the successful January 1960 of Southwest 72nd Avenue. For a short owned tractor around the area to cut election. After 25 years of leading the time, the youngsters had pickup games on vacant lots and mow the ball fields at formation of the city, the association Southwest 13th Street across from what Kennedy Park on the east side of North took the balance of the treasury and had was started as a youth center in 1959. With Perry Airport. a farewell dinner, complimenting itself incorporation, it became the Village Hall. for its service to the community and a My sons John and Mike learned to job well done. swim at a neighbor’s pool, donated as The 1959 election was declared part of the slowly organizing Recreation invalid, so the first seven city officials Department activities. Estelle Kipnis, designated as alderman lost their Carol Ludington, Helene Vogt and positions. The January 1960 election Theresa Winter were the leaders of satisfied all legal requirements; so the city a group that created a tiny library in was officially born. Six new aldermen and the town hall; they asked residents to one alderwoman were seated and Mayor donate money and books to get it started. Walter Seth Kipnis was reinstalled. Eventually, a developer’s sales office was Most of the small town’s population donated to the city, under the condition it joined in the elections for city council and be moved from Hollywood Boulevard to mayoral seats. Because of the two-year a spot next to the city hall. This served terms, elections were needed every year. I as city offices before being used as the remember so many hot August days when Pembroke Pines Public Library, until we would deliver campaign literature the Broward County South Regional door-to-door to approximately 1,900 Library was built in 1983 on the Broward single-family homes. Pembroke Pines Community College campus at Pines residents were truly active citizens and Boulevard and Southwest 74th Avenue. Pembroke Pines Civic Association Farewell Dinner, 1982. (Image courtesy of Pembroke Pines Historical demonstrated their devotion by working Some years were especially dry Museum) for the candidates of their choice.

Volume 30 • Number 1 • Broward Legacy • 5 was headed to Jacksonville! Ron rented a car there and the four of us, plus a Florida State University student headed west late in the afternoon to Tallahassee via Route 10. It was pitch black driving the two-lane road through the Osceola Forest. Ron was starving; the only edibles we had were a pack of gum and a half roll of Lifesavers! By the time we reached the Capitol, all the parties and receptions were over. Ron could finally get something to eat and Lynn could confess that she was numb from sitting on the seat belt mechanism in the center front seat! On inauguration day, we sat on folding chairs on the west side of the new skyscraper capitol building. It was nearly freezing — and then the snow started! Only a few flakes fell, but it was another occurrence that made for a Halley’s Comet, April 1986 (Rendering by Gerry Witoshynsky, May 1986) memorable journey and inauguration of January 2, 1979! Ron decided to resign It seemed like we had elections far Graham’s opponents was Bob Shevin, as mayor of Pembroke Pines and stayed too often. In 1961, an appointed charter State Attorney General. This man was an in Tallahassee, working for the Graham review board wrote our city’s operating ex-convict and he could get many people administration. Vice Mayor Paul Maxwell legal document. But some residents to support Graham over Shevin! I do not became mayor. insisted that the board should have been recall what I told him; the other volunteers I was appointed to the Board of elected, not appointed. So an election was in the office were hovering nearby worried Adjustment at a City Council meeting held to elect a Charter Review Board to about my safety as the man revealed his in the 1970s by Mayor Chuck Flanagan. write our charter, which in turn had to message. He had first selected Dave Hlay, but then be approved with very few changes at an The Graham campaign ran smoothly, changed his mind, saying he did not like election. but the trip by the Pembroke Pines Dave’s jacket (a very loud plaid). I always followed local, state and contingent to Tallahassee for the One issue I was pleased to be involved national politics — the Graham for inauguration did not. Ron and Lynn in was the long campaign to establish the Governor campaign, Jimmy Carter’s Villella and I, plus another campaign South Campus of Broward Community presidential campaign (I met several worker, were stranded at the Fort College (now Broward College) at the of Carter’s “Peanut Brigade” at Pines Lauderdale-Hollywood International northeast corner of North Perry Airport at Recreation Center) — and attended City Airport. We finally boarded, but the flight Commissioner Harold Askew’s campaign appearances with him and his wife Vicki when he ran for Broward County Tax Assessor. The “Bob Graham for Governor” campaign in 1978 was enthusiastically endorsed by many Pines residents: Mayor Ron Villella and wife Lynn, City Clerk Margaret Bosarge and her husband Buddy, and Democratic Club members Joe Knetsch and his wife Linda were major supporters. As these people were busy during the day, I had the job of being at the Graham campaign office in a shopping center just east of Southwest 72nd Avenue on Pines Boulevard. One of the most startling incidents occurred when a man came in and wanted to speak to me alone. We went to the back room. He told me he could get a lot of votes for Graham. One of Winter Frost on Tom Witoshynsky’s Car, Pembroke Pines, 12-25-1989. (Photo by Gerry Witoshynsky)

6 • Broward Legacy Pines Boulevard and Southwest 72nd Ave. This struggle started in 1969 and went on for nearly 10 years, with “done deals” suddenly falling apart, then new avenues opening up. I was a citizen supporter attending meetings and writing to “Letters to the Editors” of local newspapers. Mayor Chuck Flanagan and State Representative Dr. Walter C. Young’s help was vitally important in finally getting the project approved. Rare Occurrences The Florida Everglades is one of the perfect places on Earth to observe the night sky. One evening in 1986, my son John and I drove 30 miles west on Alligator Alley and parked the car. The The Family Channel blimp at North Perry Airport with Alex Witoshynsky in foreground, c. 1990s. (Photo by Gerry Witoshynsky) stars were brilliant and in their midst was a fuzzy white object — Halley’s Comet! on a dig at the site! This was in April Pembroke Pines Historical Society. When It had returned on its 76-year orbit and 1987, when the land would be dry before the group disbanded and Estelle was no we were fortunate to be able to see it. No the summer rains. We trudged laboriously longer physically able to participate, I long tail, but nevertheless a thrilling, once through the growth of entangled Brazilian carried on the volunteer work of collecting in a lifetime event. pepper trees (Schinus terebinthifolius), and preserving Pines history in facilities Hurricanes, tornadoes, droughts, a non-native import covering the many provided by the city. Every minute untimely deaths and plane crashes were acres of the designated Chapel Trail has been more than worthwhile and I memorable occurrences in our post World development site. I fell out of one of the anticipate working on many more projects War II city. One Christmas, our daughter trees about three feet above the ground. before I “retire.” Mary gave us an orange tree seedling. We easily located the ficus trees and ______We planted it in the front yard where it each member of the party scraped away 1 Morgan, C. (2010, March 2). “Strong storms to grew to maturity and produced beautiful low growing plants to dig in the soft black usher in another frigid week.” The Miami Herald, honeybelle fruit. But it was condemned muck. I found snake and fish vertebrae, pp. A1, A2. to death and cut down in 1999 during the bird bones, turtle shells and what I 2 Morgan, C. (2010, February 7). “Big chill kills 1995-2006 citrus canker epidemic. believed was part of an alligator jawbone. crocs, pythons, sea cows.” The Miami Herald, pp. A1, A25. There was a brief flurry of snowflakes Others found pottery remnants and around eight o’clock on the morning seashell tools, indicative of occupation 4 Halsey, W. D. (Ed. et al.). (1967). Collier’s Encyclopedia (Vol. 7, p. 51). USA: Crowell Collier of January 19, 1977, probably the most by ancient Indians, probably Tequesta, between 500 B.C. and 1500 A.D. and MacMillan, Inc. southern incidence of snow recorded in 5 This site had been surveyed previously, Brecher, E. J., Tasker, F. (2010, May 13). “Canker the Sunshine State! On Christmas Day windfall is sweet, and sour.” The Miami Herald, in 1989, we wrote the date in frost on my but only casually, so important relics may p. A1. someday be dug up. The developers son Tom’s Volkswagen! 6 Susskind, J. (1987, January 19). “The day it Archaeological Digs were very responsible in setting aside a snowed.” The Sun-Sentinel, pp. A1, A8. (article two-to-three-acre site for preservation published on the tenth anniversary of the 1977 Buzzard’s Roost and further exploration. My precious event) Our house and the rest of the Pines collection resides at the Pembroke Pines 7 Nelson, T. (1987, April 22). “Archaeologists Village neighborhood were built on Historical Museum. I hope that someone identifying area of historic Indian site in Pines.” undisturbed ground, used only as dairy with knowledge of the bones can someday Fort Lauderdale News/Sun-Sentinel, p. 10. farm pastures starting in the early positively identify them for me. The day 1930s. But I found out eventually as I we explored this site we saw feline animal became more interested in our town and tracks — perhaps those of a rare Florida county history that there was an Indian panther — in the soft sandy ruts left by encampment site within the Chapel Trail a truck. development at our far western border, just Looking back … east of U.S. 27. It was called Buzzard’s Roost, and was identified by giant old …how could 50 years go by so fast! ficus trees growing on a slight rise out of These are only some of the things I the surrounding Everglades. remember, living the history of Pembroke Pines, watching and participating in the I was thrilled when, as city historian, founding and growth of our city. In 1980, I was invited to go with members of the Mrs. Estelle Kipnis and I, along with a Broward County Archaeological Society group of other pioneers, incorporated the Volume 30 • Number 1 • Broward Legacy • 7 Pembroke Pines The City That Almost Wasn’t By Joe Knetsch

Historian and author Dr. Joe Knetsch and his wife, Linda, currently live in Tallahassee. Knetsch has published more than 200 articles and given more than 150 papers on the history of Florida. He has written several books: Florida’s Seminole Wars: 1817- 1858 and Faces of the Frontier: Florida Surveyors and Developers in 19th Century Florida. His most recently published book is Fear and Anxiety on the Florida Frontier: Articles on the Second Seminole War 1835 – 1842, published by the Seminole Wars Foundation.

Knetsch taught history at Ramblewood Middle School in Coral Springs, and served on the Broward County Historical Commission in the early 1980s. He was once a resident of the greater Pembroke Pines area, and was active in that city’s Historical Society. This article first appeared in the 1983 spring issue of the New River News, volume 21, number 4, a publication of the Fort Lauderdale Historical Society, and is reproduced here with the permission of the author.

On May 11, 1957, voters in West Hollywood and what is now Dr. Joe Knetsch, 1994 Pembroke Pines went to the polls to try to create a new, viable (photo by the Broward County city that would block attempts by the City of Hollywood to annex Historical Commission) the area. Among those standing for office in the “Hollywood Heights” election were J.J. Shear, John (Jack) Dockery and Walter S. Kipnis. They never got the chance to serve. The election, featuring a “don’t go to the polls” campaign by those opposed to a new municipality, failed to give birth to a city.

In southwest Broward County, the late 1950s were a time of rapid growth, festering dislike of county government and taxes, and a desire to avoid being swallowed up by a neighboring city. The citizens of the then tiny development of Pembroke Pines felt that they had four choices as to how to face the future. First, they could join neighboring Miramar, a choice favored 8 • Broward Legacy by some Miramar officials. Another 30 Dade County municipalities.” The After ten months of village choice, championed by J.J. Shear, but not editor favored one city for all of south government, lawsuits and a treasury with many others, was to be annexed into the Broward. Additionally, an opposition less than $100 in it, Judge Richard Sauls City of Hollywood. A third option was to group sprang up, headed by Robert de-incorporated the village on December incorporate all of West Hollywood, but Fegers, president of the West Hollywood 14, 1959. Judge Sauls’ decision was based Dr. Kipnis, David Hlay and other leaders Chamber of Commerce, and Charles on the issue of advertised boundaries only. feared the Pines would become just a Ziemba, a building contractor and leading small fish in a big pond, “paying most of proponent of a single West Hollywood This set-back did not keep the the taxes and having the least to say about city. They, too, voiced strong arguments redoubtable mayor – Dr. Kipnis – down. things….” against incorporation. He, along with many others, spearheaded a drive to re-incorporate. Bob Miller best That left only self-incorporation. Fegers felt that “the area is too small. summed up the spirit in a Fort Lauderdale Kipnis, Dockery and others were familiar There is no money to provide public News interview on October 29, 1959: “We with this from the 1957 “Hollywood services…They have suggested using a have a little village. Let’s tear it down and Heights” election, but State Law 165 fire truck from North Perry Airport. That build a bigger and better one!” allowed a community to incorporate only truck throws foam and cannot be used for if two-thirds of the eligible registered homes.” Even Shear, who would work Having learned by their mistakes, voters approved. With this requirement eventually for incorporation, initially the re-incorporators made sure their new in mind, the attempt to incorporate the sounded a shrill note of caution when he advertisements were as correct as could Village of Pembroke Pines began. asked Pines residents to “weigh the costs be. From the very start of the second of incorporation…Pembroke Pines has no incorporation campaign, the issue was not The task of incorporation was not to business.” The lines for battle were thus in doubt. When the votes were counted on be easy, although the arguments for the clearly drawn. January 16, 1960, Pembroke Pines was move were fairly clear. According to a the winner. Dr. Kipnis was elected as the flyer handed out by the Committee for The incorporation campaign was first mayor, and the council consisted of Incorporation of Pembroke Pines, the marked by a high degree of personal Frank Quinn, Robert Miller, Ruth Pearce, reasons were: 1) “the desire to protect invective and mudslinging, as might be Anthony DiPietro, James Kier, Eugene property values through retaining the expected in “small-town politics.” More Moran and John O’Brien. Oliver Shaw present zoning…and insure a continued critically, neither faction was able to was elected as marshall, and Bill Murphy high future zoning” 2) our “problems ascertain the exact number of freeholders. was elected city clerk. and interests are not identical with those The newspapers of the day offered no of West Hollywood…” 3) “we would be reliable numbers, and although the court Born out of a fear of lost value, a very small frog in a very big puddle would ultimately rule on this matter, the unfriendly surrounding governments through joining West Hollywood…” and issue was never completely resolved. and a sense of communal uniqueness, 4) “we can be annexed to West Hollywood Pembroke Pines has grown from a little without any choice if we don’t form our The election itself, requiring two- over 200 freeholders to a city of more than own government.” thirds of the registered freeholders to 150,000 residents. This growth has taken approve incorporation, was close and place in less than 25 years. The city still To reinforce their stand favoring hotly disputed. Although incorporation faces an uncertain future, but it can forge incorporation, the committee, headed won out, and the Village of Pembroke its own path now, something that could by Kipnis, Hlay, James Bardsley, Ted Pines was created, there were charges not be said with certainty prior to 1960. Thompson and Anthony DiPietro, with that it was not approved according to Given its hesitant beginning, Pembroke help from the Pembroke Pines Civic statute law. The result was a three-part Pines could well be called “the city that Association, held a “straw ballot” which suit filed by Ziemba, Alex Millstone almost wasn’t.” favored incorporation by a vote of 103 and Ralph Bibbo. The suit charged that: to three. Still, this was only one faction. “1) The incorporation did not receive the necessary 2/3 majority vote of the The opposition was larger than the freeholders, 2) The legal description of three dissenters noted above. In a May the town boundary as it appeared on the 4, 1958, editorial, the Hollywood Sun- ballot sheets was incorrect, 3) Dr. Kipnis Tattler came out against incorporation. was the self-appointed chairman of the The paper feared “that a number of small committee to open and close balloting, municipalities may continue to grow in and clerks named to tabulate results were the sprawling west Hollywood area until not appointed by the persons assembled, Broward County is saddled with the same both violations of Florida statutes.” confusion that runs rife among the nearly Volume 30 • Number 1 • Broward Legacy • 9 Pembroke Pines Past and Present By Gerry Witoshynsky

In February, 1943, F. H. Peterson, a dairy farmer once employed by Henry D. Perry, bought 280 acres of land for $3,600. In 1954, Mr. Peterson sold 55 acres to Flamingo Development Corporation for $63,000. The 55 acres were between Pembroke Road and Hollywood Boulevard north and south; Southwest 72 Avenue, the eastern border of North Perry Airport, on the west; and the newly built Sunshine Parkway, or Florida Turnpike, on the east (circa 1957). That was prorated to $1,500 per interior acre and $2,000 per acre along Pembroke Road. Most of the property in western Broward County west of U.S. 441 was used for dairy farms, starting in the late 1920s. Two of the best known were the McArthur Dairy and the Perry Dairy, now remembered by McArthur High School and North Perry Airport in Pembroke Pines, and Perry schools in Miramar. In early 2005, the very last of Wiley Waldrep’s dairy cows on the one remaining dairy farm in Broward County were transported from Waldrep’s property north of Taft Street and east of University Drive to the Lake Okeechobee area. The dairy was annexed by Pembroke Pines and became the Walnut Creek subdivision. The first homes in what was to become the city of Pembroke Pines were built in 1956, on F. H. Peterson’s former dairy property just north of Pembroke Road. Many were expansive Pembroke Pines City Hall, three-bedroom homes with swimming pools built on 90 to 125 south view 2001 (Photo by foot lots. People liked them, so the little neighborhood quickly Gerry Witoshynsky) grew. Some builders added two bedroom homes on 60 foot lots to attract young families who could afford the $10,000 prices. In 1952, Louis Sambataro had built homes in the South Broward Ranches sub-division just south of Hollywood Boulevard at Southwest 67th Avenue. The first house sold for $4,000. In 1954, just north of Pembroke Road, west of the Turnpike, the Pembroke Pines #1 and #2 sub-divisions were started. The average price for a small home was $9,600 and the three-bedroom, two-bath homes with a pool were priced at $25,000. The City of Pembroke Pines is located in Broward County, Florida. It was incorporated in January 1960, after a group of residents which included the Pembroke Pines Civic Association, asked for an election. In 1960, population was 1,429 and the city was one square mile, located between Pembroke Road on the south, Hollywood Boulevard on the north, North Perry Airport (Southwest 72nd Avenue) on the west, and the Florida Turnpike 10 • Broward Legacy on the east. Before the city was incorporated, the newspapers were not published, Another board was now under the State of Florida had acquired a very effectively canceling the election. A third attack. In December 1966, the Board large piece of property just west of North election date was set for January 14, 1961, of Adjustment, whose function was to Perry Airport. This was developed as with regular municipal elections to be held hear and rule on zoning variances, was South Florida State Hospital, for the January 28, 1961. criticized for too much independent activity. The city council felt it had no care of persons with mental disabilities, Now that the election board and the the first such facility in South Florida. control over the board and could not new council were in place, the charter Over the years, the institution’s uses overturn board decisions. The desire could be addressed for a third time. have changed. Currently it is the Senator to abolish the board came after Boyd’s Evidently the-oft delayed election ballot Howard C. Forman Human Services Funeral Home was given a variance to of January 28, 1961 did not present charter Campus. It has also been the home of build a memorial chapel on University board candidates. Newspaper articles the Alexander “Sandy” Nininger, Jr. Drive. Supporters said the Board of of March 1961, reported an appointed Veterans’ Nursing Home; Pines Place, a Adjustment was set up to keep politics charter “committee” had commenced three-building senior apartment housing out of zoning decisions. Resident and deliberation of another version of the complex; Atlantic Shores Hospital; Jose attorney Robert Fegers told the council charter. The city council decided that Maria Vargas University; and Susan B. it would violate State Statute #176.03 if it it would be faster to get the charter by Anthony House. Other city and county dissolved the board. The State Attorney submitting it to the legislature, rather facilities on the property are managed by advised the council it could banish the than at a referendum. The charter was the city, including the new Studio 18 that board, since it had created it in the first provides working spaces for artists. written and approved by the legislature place, so they did just that. A resident as House Bill #1413. It was also voted on Historical Outlook filed suit on January 20, 1967, to nullify by Pines residents on July 29, 1961, and the 24 charter amendments passed on The Early Evolution of Pembroke Pines approved by a 263-102 vote. Three charter the December 3 referendum, claiming Government since 1960 changes proposed in the spring of 1963 “numerous irregularities.” There had were voted on August 24. They would been a low turnout of 493 voters out of Over the past 33 years, Pembroke have eliminated the non-voting mayoral Pines has undergone a progressive 3,700 registered. In February, a temporary position and instead have the mayor injunction was issued blocking the city evolution of its city government. From selected from the seven council members. its incorporation, the government has from operating under the newly approved The city manager form of government charter regulations. Mayor Widlak said adapted to accommodate the increase was also included, along with a measure in population, geographic size and the it would not interfere with the operation to prevent recall of a council member of the city. The suit was eventually demands of a more regulated urban during the first year of a two-year term. society. In their new community, the dismissed by Circuit Judge O. Edgar Although approved by the legislature, residents and elected officials had to learn Williams. The 1967 municipal election the amendments were defeated by the by doing, as a brief review of events will had created a new majority group on the voters in a surprisingly low turnout for a show. council. Councilman Robert Helm asked community proud of its excellent voting the council to re-establish the Board of On January 16, 1960, an election to record. Adjustment. Mayor Widlak objected. incorporate was held and easily passed. Resolution #180 on the 1965 ballot A city charter was approved by the voters The council meetings kept the public asked if the residents wanted a city hall on May 7, 1960. Almost immediately a interest because of frequent controversy. and utilities building on city-owned lawsuit was filed by resident J. J. Shear, Newspaper reporters were having a great property on Hollywood Boulevard at who claimed that the election was illegal. time on their Pembroke Pines beat — Northwest 74th Avenue; 814 voted against He said the Charter Board had been never lacking for a story or a theme for the plan and 345 voted for the plan. A appointed by the council, rather than editorial comment. Columnist Ed Seney follow-up question on a later ballot asked elected, making the charter invalid. wrote in the October 1967 Hollywood The city finally admitted it had violated if the site should be sold, if a profit could Sun-Tattler: state statutes; it had wanted to establish be realized. This was approved. Looking back, the approximately one-acre site Pembroke Pines is a fun place. This city the charter so that franchises could be of nice homes and beautiful living has a issued, allowing construction projects to would have soon become inadequate for the rapidly expanding city. recreation program second to none. Of move ahead. Another wrinkle appeared course this recreation program is not a — it was determined that the appointed The early Pines Charter Board and product of any recreation department election board would have to be elected committees were appointed by the city or any such thing as that. The Pembroke by the voters. The election board would council. On August 6, 1966, the citizens Pines citizens get their fun by attending oversee election of the Charter Board; an voted 1,093 to 184 for an elected charter city council meetings. I’m sure the election was set for September 10, 1960. board that would study the charter members of the council don’t mean for On that date, however, Hurricane Donna and propose amendments to keep the their meetings to be so much fun, but roared into the area and postponed the document current and tailored to the heck, a guy’s gotta get things off his election to December 10. Due partly to needs of the community. Five residents chest. And getting things off his chest City Attorney John Steele’s resignation, were selected to serve on the board. means that someone else isn’t going to the required four weeks of notice in like those things, so they also have to get Volume 30 • Number 1 • Broward Legacy • 11 Left to right - Lou Marsh, Jackie Gleason, and Tony Adams working on a movie in Dania (Courtesy of Pembroke Pines Historical Museum, Lee Adams Collection) some things off their chests. And on and to annex Hollywood.” Montella’s interest on the March 10, 1981 ballot was approved on – Pembroke Pines citizens should be in annexation of Pembroke Pines territory to provide that council seats should be proud of the fact they have such a fun was to give Hollywood a corridor for designated by numbers. place to go in the evenings. westward expansion from its hemmed-in After many unsuccessful attempts It was once said, “With Pembroke borders. to reduce the number of commissioners, Pines, who needs Jackie Gleason?” A charter amendment on the April 21, as they are now called, a well thought- Another reporter said, “The Pines has had 1973 ballot that proposed a four-member out plan with a complete blueprint for a fairly smooth-running city despite these council plus the mayor was defeated. implementation was presented to the evenings of oratorical splendor.” What would have been a major change electorate on March 13, 1984, with the in city government was proposed in 1975. strong support of Mayor Chuck Flanagan. In December 1967, Mayor Widlak This action was an important move suggested splitting the city into wards, It would have shifted the administration of the city to a strong mayor, who would forward in the government of the city. It because he said some areas had two was inspired by the pending development representatives, while others had none. have the responsibilities currently handled by the city manager, under the council/ of a huge new condominium complex, Later in March 1968, Mayor Widlak Century Village, with an eventual proposed setting up a committee that city manager form of government. The measure was defeated by a vote of 1,853 population of 15,000 residents, which would study ways to protect the city’s would have the potential to dominate interest if they consolidated into one large to 1,400. After a long study by the charter board and numerous public hearings, city government. A new structure was city. Hollywood City Commissioner Al called for in order to guarantee a balanced Montella believed that within ten years a streamlined and updated charter was approved by the voters on March 14, 1978. representation from all areas of the only three large cities would exist — Fort community. Lauderdale, Hollywood and Pompano The city had been annexing various Beach. parcels of property in its westward Four commissioners would be elected from four districts of equal population, Councilman Ashley Hale said, “I expansion, almost since its incorporation in 1960. On the September presidential and the mayor would be elected at large. don’t blame Montella for trying to annex As the population center moved, districts us. We’re a pretty darn nice little city. But primary ballot of 1980, the residents were asked to vote for the third time on would be withdrawn. Seventy-seven we’re not going to let anyone take us over.” percent of the voters agreed with the plan, Councilman Joe Ferraro commented, annexation of 10,080 acres or 15.75 square miles that would bring the city border to which would take effect with the March “I think the motion should read that 1985 election. In further refinement of the Pembroke Pines should immediately start U.S. 27. The vote was 2,381 in favor and 1,507 opposed. Charter Amendment #3 landmark 1984 change in government, the 12 • Broward Legacy 1986 election approved four-year terms for the commissioners. An amendment was passed that set forth the procedure for removal of a commissioner who was incapacitated and unable to serve, but refused to resign. One prickly issue that surfaced a couple of times was water fluoridation. Avid supporters and detractors argued for weeks on the subject. A non-binding straw ballot on the October 1966 ballot approved fluoridation of city water by a 760 to 494 vote. No action was taken to implement the plan; however, the city included money in the budget to buy fluoride tablets for free distribution. By July 1967, only five families had asked for them. The issue was revisited on June 16, 1987, when again voters were asked to decide on water treatment or free distribution of fluoride. The outcome was the same. The March 10, 1992 election ballot included an amendment to abolish the charter board Kipnis Home, Southwest 69th Avenue at Southwest 13th Street, c. 1982 (Image courtesy of Pembroke and establish a commission-appointed Pines Historical Museum) body. This was approved. by the city commission, on call for in the City of Pembroke Pines. The ultra With all the problems previously any needed revisions. The commission modern, three-building complex is in outlined, plus many more that were not handles its responsibilities without loss keeping with the amazing growth and mentioned, it would seem that at times of efficiency after its reduction to five commitment to the future of the now 50 Pembroke Pines was a malfunctioning members. There will no doubt be a re- year old community. While we celebrate community, but this was not so. In the emergence of some issues, as certain this new institution, a brief recall of the early years controversies were common, as the return of bell bottom pants and previous city halls is of interest. but at the same time the city was growing platform shoes. But, as we observed and capably handling its affairs. The When the Village of Pembroke Pines our 33rd birthday [in 1993], the major was incorporated in February 1959, there elections that were called too often in the kinks in running the city had long been city’s infancy, many of them on Saturdays, were no municipal facilities — these smoothed out, so that future elected would all have to be created by the pioneer finally settled down to one spring election officials and residents could feel confident every two years, plus the mandatory fall residents. The second ordinance passed in the stability and fine environment of by the village’s Board of Aldermen was state and national elections. The Board Pembroke Pines. of Adjustment is doing its duty without to designate Mayor Walter Kipnis and interference. The Charter Board, having Three Decades, Four City Halls his wife Estelle’s spacious home as the done its major job of refining the city’s In the fall of 1988, a gleaming new, village hall. Late in 1959, the village was operating document, is now appointed state-of-the-art city hall was dedicated dissolved, but the Pembroke Pines Civic Association had started a community center building on Southwest 13th Street at Southwest 67th Way. The land had been donated, and with more donations of materials and residents’ labor and a town appropriation of $2,000, a plain, presentable structure grew. The citizens reincorporated in January 1960, and by late 1960 the center was complete enough to be turned over to the village by the Civic Association to be used for municipal offices. It was valued at $55,000 and paid for in full. The building was expanded over the years. The police station annex, built by the department personnel, and a utility First City Hall, completed in 1960, SW 13 Street at SW 67 Way, c. 1980 (Photo by Gerry Witoshynsky) department office were added on. A Volume 30 • Number 1 • Broward Legacy • 13 Pines City Hall, Taft Street west of Palm Avenue, former showrooms of Pembroke Lakes Subdivision, c. 1976-1988 (Image Courtesy of Pembroke Pines Historical Museum) second small building served as city pleased with all the room, in contrast to another wetland area elsewhere, the city department offices, and eventually as the their former crowded facility. The site was allowed to proceed. The two major city-operated library. and tropical pavilion style of the new architects passed away during the building By the late 1960s, the town’s growth offices made for a unique city hall. But process and the Architectural Partnership was so rapid it was obvious that the hall soon, as was expected, this complex was of Pembroke Pines finished the project, had become obsolete for government inadequate. Although they were charming with the final cost close to $4 million. operations. Discussion continued about and different, the wooden buildings were With a brilliant sun reflecting off the how to obtain better facilities. Mayor hard to maintain and the design was blue mirror-glass surfaces of the three Kipnis’s plan for a parcel of land on inefficient for business. Once again, the buildings, Mayor Chuck Flanagan, the then Hollywood Boulevard did not meet city was looking for a permanent seat of city commissioners, invited dignitaries with the council or residents’ approval. government that would serve its needs and citizens dedicated the new city hall on Eventually, an offer from the Pembroke well into the twenty-first century. October 22, 1988. The entire complex was Lakes developers to turn over their sales The call for architectural design bids named the Charles Flanagan Government offices at Taft Street and Palm Avenue went out; the final choice was from the Center and the six-story structure, the was accepted, and the City Hall complex firm of Bouterse and Fabregas of Miami, Woodward M. Hampton Administration was dedicated on November 13, 1976. and the cost was to be around $3 million. Building. Woodward (Woody) Hampton The price was approximately $300,000 The land, at the corner of Pines Boulevard was the long-term city manager of for a group of four wooden structures on and Palm Avenue, had been donated by Ed Pembroke Pines. low pilings, connected by walkways and Ansin. Much opposition was raised when Some residents have emphatically situated next to a lake. The residents of the the architects’ rendering was presented. Pines Village area were unhappy to lose stated their dislike of the complex, Critics seemed to want something more while others admire it. Beth Dunlop, the distinction of having the government conservative. Mayor Flanagan and the center in their midst, but it was inevitable architecture critic for The Miami Herald, majority of commissioners stuck to their described it as “. . . a sophisticated that as the population center of the city opinions and votes, and proceeded with was moving west, so must the City Hall. design, audacious and sculptural” and, the permits and plans. A frustrating delay “In design [the three-story building] is The “old city hall” became a senior was caused by the State’s declaration that citizens center. an abstraction of a barn — a nod to the the site was a marsh land, and should fact that Pembroke Pines, not long ago, The city officials and employees were be preserved. By promising to create was mostly marsh and pasture-land . . . ” 14 • Broward Legacy Whatever one’s opinion, the present Another form of residential creating four districts with equal number city hall is a stunning statement for the development, condominiums, began in the of voters in each district electing their city. It cannot be ignored. As years go by, early 1970s. Hollybrook Condominiums, representative on the City Commission, it will be admired and defended, simply started in 1973 and located south of Pines and the mayor chosen by all the voters. because it is ours. Beth Dunlop also said, Boulevard and west of Douglas Road, The CRB contracted with a professor the new city hall takes “. . . an important was the first major project of its kind in from FAU’s political science department first step toward instilling a sense of Pembroke Pines. Two others followed: to draw up a districting plan. The expert’s identity, a civic pride.” Park Place and Colony Point within the plan was within the legal framework but Residential Development Pembroke Lakes master plan community, did not take into account the political west of Palm Avenue between Johnson background of Pembroke Pines. It split Pembroke Pines started as a and Sheridan streets. residential community, and remains one condo between two districts, and put one today. The types of living areas, Current Vice-Mayor Jack McClusky two other large condos into one district. however, have changed over the years. wrote an account of how and why the City It also put some current elected officials The first neighborhood was Pines Village, of Pembroke Pines changed from a seven- into the same districts, sure to cause where individual contractors built single member City Council to a five-member friction among them and raise their family homes. Later, condominiums were City Commission form of government in objections to the plan. introduced as a new style in residential a research paper he did in pursuit of his Current Vice-Mayor Jack McCluskey, development. Masters Degree in Public Administration having been recently defeated for at Florida Atlantic University: Pembroke Lakes on Taft Street west reelection to the city council in 1982, of Palm Avenue, designed in the 1970s When the Century Village retirement began his own study of how best to as a complete neighborhood, contained condo project was proposed, with a create a districting plan. He developed single-family homes, condominiums and potential of 15,000 residents, the current three plans: 1) Seven members with townhouses. Century Village at Southwest city officials knew that this many senior six commissioners elected from six 136th Avenue south of Pines Boulevard is citizen residents, who usually voted as designated districts, mayor elected a condominium community of 15,000 a bloc, could easily control every City at large, two-year terms, elections residents. Other condominiums came on Council seat. every year; 2) five members with four line as these apartment-style complexes The elected Charter Review Board commissioners elected from four districts, appealed to senior citizens. West of (CRB), entrusted with the drawing up of mayor at large, two-year terms, elections Flamingo Road, builders developed gated the city’s constitution (called a charter in every year; 3) five members with four communities restricted to owners’ access. Florida) that empowered the operation of commissioners from four districts, mayor These were popular and after Hurricane the city, began studying a new system of elected at large, four-year terms, elections Andrew in 1992, had a great surge in electing city officials that would prevent every two years. growth. Farther west and closer to U.S. one condo from controlling all the city’s McCluskey felt that Plan #3 was 27 and the Everglades, where the land council members. A proposal on the 1983 the most effective for the city. Now he elevation is only a few feet above sea level, ballot to establish numbered designated quietly discussed the plans with a few single-family homes on one or more acres seats had been approved. Now the CRB members, who happened to be long were built. CRB took a further step: the study of time friends. McCluskey also approached Mayor Chuck Flanagan and City Manager Woodward (Woody) Hampton, outlining his proposal. Separately they all agreed that Plan #3 was the best. After long discussions at a CRB meeting that included a revised plan from the FAU professor, and public comment, Mayor Flanagan laid on the table the three plans developed by McCluskey, without identifying the author. The CRB voted to accept Plan #3. The CRB’s attorney drafted the plan and wrote the ballot question that would go before the voters. Following city charter procedure, the City Council voted to place the item on the ballot. Now the campaign to “sell” the proposal to the public was begun. A political action committee (PAC) was Statue of the late Red Buttons, nationally recognized stand-up comedian and actor, and advertising created by Mayor Flanagan with advice spokesperson for Century Village, c. 1970s (Photo by Gerry Witoshynsky) Volume 30 • Number 1 • Broward Legacy • 15 College South Campus was destroyed. Other buildings were battered and several trees splintered. This natural whirl-wind was mild, however, compared to the political storm that swirled about the founding of the campus in the 1970s. President Dr. Hugh Adams of then Broward Community College approached the Broward County Commission in the summer of 1970. He knew the 100-acre northeast corner of the county-owned airport was surplus U.S. government property, so he asked the Commission for the free transfer of the site for school use. The Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) would not allow this; it had final say on airport usage. Instead, it wanted $3.6 million, based on the “highest and best use,” an appraisal formula. Dr. Adams appealed to the Pembroke Pines Planning and Zoning Board on The Fury of the Storm, Broward Community College South Campus, January 16, 1991 (Photo by Gerry November 14, 1973, asking it to change the Witoshynsky) zoning from agricultural to educational, hoping therefore to get a lower price. The and participation from McCluskey; the serve as a cultural and social gathering request was approved and in early January mayor became the chief salesman. He place for the residents. the City Council validated the change convinced the leaders of the major condos Educational Institutions - Schools with little discussion. that it was in their best interest to support the issue. He spoke at the condos, citizen The first public school in the new Suddenly, a flare-up of anti-campus organizations and candidates’ nights. town was the Pembroke Pines Elementary sentiment was orchestrated by a small The PAC ran newspaper ads and sent School at Southwest 9th Street and group of Pembroke Pines residents. flyers to the voters. On election night Southwest 66th Avenue. In 1961-62, it Slanderous flyers were distributed, Tuesday, March 13, 1984, the citizens was just a group of portable classrooms letters to local newspapers written and learned that a huge 76% majority had in an open field, shaded by a grove of live the neighborhood was agitated into voted in favor of the proposed five- oak trees. Finally, in 1964, a permanent believing the worst possible calamities member commission. building was dedicated; but because the would occur if the campus was built. city was growing so fast, the portable Riots, drug use, uncontrolled traffic and The owner of a large tract of land structures were used for many years. “undesirable people” were the objections north of then Hollywood Boulevard asked To help ease the crowded classrooms, most mentioned. to be annexed to Pembroke Pines; this Pembroke Pines became an innovator and The January 21, 1974, Pines Council was approved. Soon another owner asked started its own charter school system. The meeting was packed with opponents that his property, west of University Drive system now consists of four elementary presenting a petition containing 140 and north of Hollywood Boulevard be schools, two middle schools and one high names. The council reacted by rezoning annexed. The addition of property north school. Broward County Public Schools by a 4-3 vote, and approved by a 4-3 of North Perry Airport allowed westward has six elementary schools, three middle tally, a future public hearing to “hear expansion, fulfilling the contiguous schools and one high school within the city the other side.” Dr. Adams and his staff property requirement of annexation. boundaries. Additionally, there are many remained calm and continued to pursue Now, in 2010, about 55 years after private primary and secondary schools the objective. the first homes were built, our population and institutions of higher education within stands at more than 150,000. We are the city, which has always put a high value Pines Middle School was the site of the second largest city in land area in on educational opportunities. the February 14, 1974, public hearing that attracted around 400 people. Dr. Broward County, encompassing more Educational Institutions - Broward Adams, Dr. Clinton Hamilton, Dr. Walter than 34 square miles. One large tract of Community College South Campus land, 113 acres just west of City Hall, is C. Young, a former Broward Community in the planning stages for a City Center. On January 15, 1991, a tornado swept College trustee and pioneer resident of This will include government facilities ― a north from Miami-Dade County and Pembroke Pines, and officials from Davie new city hall ― commercial sites, a hotel across North Perry Airport in Pembroke (location of the main campus) attended. and varied housing complexes. It will have Pines. Damage was extensive to hangars They presented their plans for the school, a large patio and park-like area that will and planes at Crescent Airways and a while the protest group raised their modular classroom building at Broward 16 • Broward Legacy objections. The council members side- stepped any decisions, saying they could not vote outside City Hall. At its March 1974 meeting, the City of Pembroke Pines Council, by a 6-1 vote, rejected the rezoning and instead adopted a resolution asking the County Commission to rezone the property for recreational use. At the same meeting, the Flamingo West Development Company offered 100 acres adjacent to C. B. Smith Park to the school. Later, Dr. Adams thanked the developers and stated that examination of many parcels in South Broward showed that the airport site was the only one meeting all state criteria. While negotiating with city and county officials, Dr. Adams also was assuring the FAA that the campus would not lead to closure of the airport, but would instead enhance it with its aviation programs. He looked for approval of the Broward County Community College Lake, 1988 (Photo by Gerry Witoshynsky) site acquisition and a reasonable price, but nothing was done through the summer and fall. month, the FAA said the airport would In March, the FAA called for a new have to undergo an environmental review. appraisal, as the previous one dated from In December 1974, in response 1972. A shake-up at the FAA occurred to inquiries to FAA officials, an Finally, on February 7, 1975, the FAA when FAA Director Alexander Butterfield announcement came from Washington that notified Broward Community College that and former White House security chief the land transfer was totally unacceptable the college could receive the property, for President Richard Nixon, suddenly and no action had been taken. Later that but the selling price was not mentioned. resigned. June brought a confirmation of the $3.6 million valuation. A compromise was offered by Broward Community College — indirect benefits such as college aviation programs, could perhaps lower the price. The influence of Senator Lawton Chiles in Washington, D.C. was enlisted, but he could get the FAA to agree to only $875,000 in indirect benefits. Meanwhile, the opponents continued their letter writing and other methods of keeping the controversy alive. The City Council asked the South Broward Park District to buy the land at $30,000 to $50,000 an acre. In November 1975, Dr. Adams received the new appraisal — $1.73 million. With the subtraction of the indirect benefits amount, the final price was $1,031,000. But now the County Commission stalled, saying they needed to restudy airport needs and find a different site for Broward Community College. However, on December 26, the commission was convinced to accept the college’s offer by new administrator Beach, Pool, and Water Slides at CB Smith Park, a Broward County Park in Pembroke Pines, 1982 (Photo Lewis Hester. by Gerry Witoshynsky)

Volume 30 • Number 1 • Broward Legacy • 17 field, dedicated to John F. Kennedy. This is now Paul Maxwell Park. Maxwell was a pioneer resident and elected city commissioner. He became mayor when Mayor Ron Villella resigned to go to Tallahassee to work in Governor Bob Graham’s administration, in 1979. Parents helped lay sod and became coaches to get the program started. Swimming lessons were held in the homes of residents. Weekend and summer recreation programs were started at the county-operated Recreation Center on then Hollywood Boulevard. Today, the city has one of the best recreation departments in the county, operating 32 parks and four recreation center facilities that offer softball, baseball, soccer, football, tennis, roller hockey, golf and racquet ball. As the Imported Italian gazebo in Pembroke Lakes Mall, 1993 (Photo by Gerry Witoshynsky) city continued to grow westward, it surrounded an undeveloped parcel of property known as Snake Creek Park. Headline, Hollywood Sun-Tattler, schools; they needed recreation facilities. That parcel, which was landscaped and February 24, 1976: “FAA REJECTS The first ball field in Pembroke Pines was had facilities built, is now known as C. B. BCC LAND PURCHASE.” Stalling once set up in a rough vacant field, opposite Smith Park, dedicated in 1982 in honor of again, the FAA said the October 1975 the town hall on Southwest 13th Street, the Broward County Commissioner who appraisal did not reflect the land’s fair which was filled with pine trees and rough in the late 1950s had the vision to save it market value, and the edge of an airport weeds. City officials asked the county to as open space. was not suitable for a campus. An April help out, and so a section of North Perry 18 meeting between FAA and school Airport along Southwest 72nd Avenue, The old city hall was converted into officials was held at the county courthouse was set aside as the little league athletic the first senior center, until the beautiful to resolve differences. Finally, on June 3, 1976, Congressman J. Herbert Burke announced from his Washington office that the FAA had accepted the low appraisal, thereby giving its consent to the school’s acquisition of the property. On Sunday, June 3, 1979, a ground breaking ceremony was held and a target opening date was set for about a year later. Today, the Judson S. Samuels Campus of Broward College is a prestigious institution in Pembroke Pines. The full- time student enrollment is 1,560 and the 217,000 volume library serves the South Broward area. The landscaped lake with its surrounding exercise course is a magnet for local residents. Born in a storm of controversy, South Campus is now a respected and welcomed part of the community. Recreation The early residents in the new town knew they had to start something very Kenneth Hughes, Seminole Indian Wars Historian (at left), with Broward County Historical Commission important for their children in addition to Members in North Perry Airport digs, 1989. (Photo by Gerry Witoshynsky) 18 • Broward Legacy north of Pines Boulevard and adjacent to the Pembroke Lakes Mall. It has expanded many times to meet the growing population, and added a professional office building and six-level parking garage. As the post-World War II population exploded, the need for new streets and highways also grew. The Florida Turnpike wended its way through open pasture and pine forests on the eastern edge of Pembroke Pines beginning in 1957. Interstate 75 was constructed, from Miami-Dade County through western Pembroke Pines, and then connected with the former State Road 84, heading west from Fort Lauderdale crossing the Everglades as “Alligator Alley.” U.S. 27, dating from 1927, at the far western reaches of Pembroke Pines, became our western border. When the last large piece Broward County Archaeological Society Participants in North Perry Airport Digs, 1989 (Photo by Gerry of acreage was annexed from Flamingo Witoshynsky) Road to U.S. 27, it took in Holly Lakes new Southwest Focal Point Senior Center Interstate 75 and south of Pines Boulevard. Mobile Home community. West of a was established in 1995. The old senior In the early years, residents had to drive canal on U.S. 27 is Water Conservation center/city hall was then remodeled into to Memorial Hospital in Hollywood Area #3 and the vast Everglades. the Village Community Center. Now the for medical care. The city was happy The dramatic economic downturn Early Childhood Development Center to welcome Pembroke Pines General has caused a temporary halt to the uses the facility. A part of the building Hospital in the 1970s, when it opened development of the City Center. But, the is appropriately used as the Pembroke at Sheridan Street and University Drive. central location on prime property on Pines Historical Museum. The city hall That hospital is now a part of Memorial our main street should in the near future on Taft Street is now just a memory, as Healthcare Systems. Memorial Hospital attract major developers to complete the it was torn down in the spring of 2005. West was built on Flamingo Road, project. As it has in the past, the city will The site is now Ben Fiorendino Pembroke Lakes Park, to honor a former mayor and city commissioner. The first police station was a tiny addition to the old city hall, built mostly by a handful of police officers. Eventually, the city acquired property at 9500 Pines Boulevard and built the current Pembroke Pines Police Department headquarters. Adjacent to the police department is the Pembroke Pines Fire Department headquarters. With its more than 200 employees and six stations, the fire department is rated a Class A organization. In 1957, the first shopping areas in the city were small strip centers with convenience stores on then Hollywood Boulevard and Pembroke Road, just west of the Florida Turnpike. The major Pembroke Lakes Mall, located at the junction of Pines Boulevard and Flamingo Road, has become a regional attraction for south Broward and north Miami-Dade counties. In 2007, the Shops at Pembroke Gardens outdoor shopping center opened on Southwest 145th Avenue, just east of North Perry Field Administration Building and Control Tower, c. 1989 (Photo by Gerry Witoshynsky) Volume 30 • Number 1 • Broward Legacy • 19 MetLife Snoopy Blimp and Sea World Shamu Blimp moored at North Perry Airport, c. 1990s. Spectators can go to the rear of the Paul Maxwell Park baseball field and get a close-up view of the blimps as they come and go from their moorings. (Photo by Gerry Witoshynsky) continue to evolve, updating facilities as manager. In 1957, the U.S. Navy issued ammunition was still live, it had to be needed and adding others that are desired. a quit-claim deed, turning the airport disarmed. Several World War II pennies The city has faithfully followed its slogan: over to the Broward County Aviation made without scarce copper were also Join us — Progress with us. Department, where it remains today found along with a British-made Rolls Aviation Hotspot Still Thriving After along with Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood razor kit, manufactured of stainless steel. 68 Years! International Airport. This perfectly preserved kit is a prized Newer residents were often puzzled as item. Cafeteria items once housed in the One of the truly historic sites in administration building and control tower Pembroke Pines is North Perry Airport. to why an airport sat in a residential area, not realizing that the towns of Miramar were found. One site had household items This World War II airfield was built on a thought to be from the time the property part of Henry D. Perry’s dairy farm, as south of Pembroke Road, and Pembroke Pines to its north, encroached on the was used by the Perry family as part of a satellite of Naval Air Station Miami in their dairy farm. Some of these artifacts Opa-Locka, Dade County. airfield, once completely open dairy farm pasture of the pre-war era. Opportunities are on display at the Pembroke Pines Located between Pines Boulevard to create other general aviation airports Historical Museum while others were and Pembroke Road (south and north), in more remote locations were not acted donated to the Broward County Historical and University Drive and Southwest 72nd upon by the Broward County government Commission. Avenue (east and west), in the City of and were eventually lost in the rapid Until 2008, the most historic structure Pembroke Pines, North Perry Airport has post-World War II residential growth in in Pembroke Pines was the original been a popular, highly used facility since the area. the end of the World War II. In 1989, Hollywood resident and Sometime during late 1942 or early Seminole Indian Wars historian Kenneth 1943, at the height of World War II, North Hughes had been exploring some areas Perry Field came on line. On its wagon- on North Perry Airport with his metal wheel designed runways F4F “Wild Cat” detector. He was successful in retrieving pilots practiced taking off and landing some World War II artifacts along skills for their future destination on with Pembroke Pines historian Gerry aircraft carriers. Witoshynsky, and members of the When the war ended in 1945, the U.S. Broward County Archaeological Society. Navy refused to return the 640-acre piece They excavated .30 and .50 caliber bullet of property to its former owner, dairyman shells, three gun barrels and numerous Henry D. Perry. The airport continued unidentifiable plane and vehicle parts. to be used by small plane owners, with A handful of .50 caliber bullets turned up near the control tower site. Since the The Sportatorium, c. 1990 (Photo by Gerry Miramar resident Richard Basinger acting Witoshynsky) 20 • Broward Legacy administration building and control tower near the airport’s main entrance on Pembroke Road, built in 1943. The three-story tower and two one-story wings were used by various businesses over the years. Decades later, in the mid 2000s, the airport management closed the building after heavy roof damage from hurricanes Katrina and Wilma. Efforts by Pelican Airways owner Terry Fensome, Pembroke Pines Mayor Frank Ortis and the City Commission, Broward County Historical Commission and County Historian Helen Landers, and others anxious to save the structure because of its historic value, were unsuccessful. In April 2008, the venerable World War II relic was demolished. For decades, advertising blimps have operated from the field during the winter months. Seventeen different lighter-than- air craft have been recorded at the airport, sometimes three at a time. At a grassy part of the property along University Drive, pilots dive down in their Miami-Hollywood Speedway Park, c. 1977 (Photo by Gerry Witoshynsky) vintage one-engine planes to snatch aerial signs and then gun their engines in a steep cool the building. The few amenities, The hippy generation, as the kids take-off to hoist the signs skyward for such as restrooms and concessions, were known, thought these concerts were trips along the ocean beaches or over the were overwhelmed by the crush of the the greatest! They were participating Dolphins football stadium. This has been multitude of hyperactive concertgoers. in the “rage of the age”: loud, an activity at the field since the late 1950s, The trip to the Sportatorium was an incomprehensible, ear-drum-shattering started by Jimmy Butler and his father. adventure in itself; the road was a narrow, noise in the Sportatorium, the only Along Pines Boulevard, three major two-lane asphalt Hollywood Boulevard, South Florida venue available for this South Broward television channels base originating at the ocean in Hollywood type of performance. The acoustics were their news-gathering helicopters near the and continuing due west to U.S. 27, the terrible, according to the musicians and airport manager’s office. north-south route from Miami to Lake the spectators. Nevertheless, when the youngsters could be in the same building Despite several tragic accidents in its Okeechobee. Some of the ticket holders would approach from the east, clogging with such superstars as The Grateful Dead 68-year existence, North Perry Airport and Led Zeppelin, nothing else mattered! has added excitement, style and color to the “main street” of Pembroke Pines for our city, and has been a valuable part of miles, from the Florida Turnpike and U.S. The final show in October 1988 our history! 441. Others would drive north on U.S. featured country music acts Highway 101, 27 and turn east on western Hollywood the Desert Rose Band and Larry Boone. The Sportatorium and Points West Boulevard to reach the Sportatorium. The badly deteriorated building was torn The most well known establishment down in 1993, and a Sedano’s market now in Pembroke Pines and South Florida in occupies the space on Pines Boulevard at the 1970s and 1980s was the Sportatorium. Northwest 172nd Avenue. Those who came in the 1960s and 1970s In its heyday, the Sportatorium was would know it well, as they were attracted infamous as well as famous, and it will to this roughly built arena where they be fondly recalled by concertgoers as an would be entertained by most of the experience of a life-time! My sons John wildly popular rock music bands that were and Mike were two participants. They then the epitome of music entertainment. would come home saturated with strange The concerts were initiated in 1970 smoky odors, and once with both rear- in the 15,000-seat, cement block structure view mirrors missing from their car. with a corrugated metal roof. It had no Next to the Sportatorium, the Miami- air conditioning in its early years and Hollywood Speedway Park was the site of the one installed in 1976 did little to drag races, with the noise of their huge Willie’s Bar, c. 1990 (Photo by Gerry Witoshynsky) Volume 30 • Number 1 • Broward Legacy • 21 West Fork Ranch, c. 1990 (Photo by Gerry Witoshynsky) engines splitting the country air. Non- ______professionals could bring their “souped 1. For further information on the Perry family and 10. “Consolidation Study Falls Flat in Pines,” Fort up” cars and try them out on the quarter- the history of this area see Gerry Witoshynsky’s Lauderdale News, March 5, 1968. “Memories of West Hollywood: An Interview With mile track. 11. Ibid. Annabel Perry,” Broward Legacy, Summer/Fall Farther west, Willie’s Bar was a stop 1995, Vol. 18, nos. 3-4, pp. 13 – 20. 12. McCluskey, Jack, “A Case Study: Organizations and for hunters and fishermen going to and Administrative Behavior,” 1995, Research paper for 2. Mortgage Registry, #572228, 5-7-1954 Document # pursuit of Master’s Degree in Public Administration from the Everglades. It stood for many 55, Abstract of Title Continuation, #184784 for Lot at Florida Atlantic University. years on then Hollywood Boulevard in the 19, Block 9, Page #2 recorded in Plat Book 35, P. 46, vicinity of 190th Avenue. The rusty sign Public Records of Broward Co., Florida. 13. Dunlop, B. (1988, November 6). “City Halls give Broward towns strong sense of identity.” The for Willie’s Bar hung for years until the 3. On October 1, 1973, City Commission (then Miami Herald, p. K5. whole ramshackle place was torn down. “Council”) adopted Resolution 656, renaming Hollywood Boulevard to Pines Boulevard within 14. Ibid. Hollywood Inc. land developers held the City Limits of Pembroke Pines. The resolution 15. McCluskey, Jack, “A Case Study: Organizations and many acres of property on the north was to become effective January 1, 1974. [The text Administrative Behavior,” 1995, Research paper for refers to both “Hollywood Boulevard” and “Pines side of the Boulevard, under the West pursuit of Master’s Degree in Public Administration Boulevard.” Selection is based on occurrence of Fork Ranch name. Until residential and at Florida Atlantic University. an event (e.g., before or after January 1, 1974) or commercial development reached that far reference to the present tense.] 16. Broward Community College is now Broward west, landowners would maintain cattle College. 4. Ibid. on their rezoned agricultural property and 17. Sun-Reporter, June 3, 1976, p. 11. receive a tax break. 5. Ibid. 18. Hollywood Sun-Tattler, June 4, 1979, p. 1-A. 6. Mayor Walter Seth and Mrs. Estelle Kipnis 1961 From this 1954 beginning, Pembroke Scrapbook, in the collections of the Pembroke Pines 19. For further information on North Perry Airport Pines spread westward as far as it could Historical Museum. during World War II see Gerry Witoshynsky’s go—U.S. 27 and the eastern edge of the “Bombers Over Broward,” Broward Legacy, 7. On October 1, 1973, Commission (then “Council”) Winter-Spring 1991, Vol. 14, nos. 1-2, pp. 15 – 19. Everglades. On its 50th anniversary adopted Resolution 656, renaming Hollywood in 2010, Pembroke Pines is the second Boulevard to Pines Boulevard within the City Limits 20. The Miami Herald, April 29, 2008. of Pembroke Pines. The resolution was to become largest city in Broward County and has a 21. See note 3. population of more than 150,000 people. effective January 1, 1974. 8. Ed Seney, South Broward Review, Hollywood Sun- Tattler, October, 7, 1967. 9. Hollywood Sun-Tattler, October 7,1967 (No reporter’s name given).

22 • Broward Legacy The Pembroke Pines Historical Museum By Gerry Witoshynsky

The Pembroke Pines Historical Society incorporated in 1980 under the leadership of city pioneers Estelle Kipnis and Gerry Witoshynsky. Estelle and her husband, Dr. Walter Seth Kipnis, established their home in the first 1954 subdivision of Pembroke Pines #1, and were leaders in organizing the community toward incorporation as a village in 1959. After the first incorporation attempt failed on legal technicalities, a January 1960 election succeeded and Dr. Kipnis was re-elected as mayor. The Kipnises started preserving newspaper clippings in 1954; these scrapbooks became the first documents of the society. Witoshynsky started collecting newspaper clippings in 1980, believing they provided an ongoing historical outline of the growth of the city. Pembroke Pines Historical When Mrs. Kipnis was no longer able to participate and the Museum World War II Exhibit Historical Society dissolved, Witoshynsky continued the work of Dedication, September 13, 2008. collecting and saving all materials pertinent to the city’s history. World War II Veterans Charlie Since 1980, the city has provided museum space for the collection Ober (left) and Fred DeCicco of newspapers, city documents, maps, photographs, organization (Photo by Johnny Mullin) scrapbooks, publications and books. The museum’s purpose is simple: collect, preserve and disseminate the city’s history. Today the museum is housed in an appropriate facility — the original Village and then City Hall, now the Village Community Center. In September 2008, the museum dedicated its World War II Continuing Exhibit, honoring the hundreds of veterans who have retired to this community. The collection continues to grow with the museum receiving uniforms, guns, medals, maps, newspaper clippings and most importantly, World War II photos from local veterans. As the city celebrates 50 progressive years, Pembroke Pines residents are encouraged to join the Friends of the Museum to assist City Historian and Museum Director Gerry Witoshynsky and volunteer staff in the ongoing work of preserving Pembroke Pines history. The museum is open on Tuesdays and Thursdays from noon to 4 p.m. Special hours may be arranged for groups. The museum is located at 6700 S.W. 13th Street, Pembroke Pines, Florida, 33028. Visitors may contact the museum by calling 954-986-5049 or emailing [email protected].

Volume 30 • Number 1 • Broward Legacy • 23 Old Walls By John Fritchey

John Fritchey roamed the South Florida wilds as a youngster. He accompanied his father and grandfather who knew the Broward County area well from farming and working for other pioneers in the early 1900s, who gleaned a living from the natural bounty of South Florida. Throughout his life, he would listen and remember as the old-timers told of their experiences in the area. John recorded many of these stories in his book, Everglades Journal. John has given the Pembroke Pines Historical Museum permission to print another one of his remembrances, “Old Walls” (dated 1976), taken from his original hand-written notes, which were edited by Gerry Witoshynsky. John Fritchey’s recollections were written in the dialect characteristic of early Twentieth Century Florida. Gerry was careful to retain this manner of speech. He lives now in Clarksville, Georgia, still a keen observer of nature’s handiwork! -Gerry Witoshynsky, Pembroke Pines City Historian

When Grandpa Roscoe Fritchey first came to Florida in 1914, he had come to see if what he had heard about South Florida was true. People riding the trains coming from Tampa through Arkansas told about how green and rich the land was in the winter and summer. He worked on the train in Arkansas. He rode the train down to Kenansville [Florida] just north of Lake Okeechobee — I think that was as far as the train went at that time. Later John Fritchey, March 6, 2003. (photo his youngest sister married a man that worked for the railroad by Gerry Witoshynsky) there and they spent the rest of their lives there. But to travel on down to the Everglades and the new little towns, you had to walk eight or 10 miles to Lake Marian and catch a boat, go down the Kissimmee River to Lake Okeechobee, and then to the Caloosahatchee River and on to Fort Myers. Neither Grandpa nor anyone else had any money then to pay to ride the boat, but you could help load or unload the boat and pay to ride and eat that way. The great crops and hogs and cattle he saw were something he had never seen before. The crops growing at the hotel at Ritta, or what is Lake Harbor now, were so green and pretty and the cattle and hogs were just running loose, eating live oak acorns, palmetto berries and guava [fruit]. These were mostly in the 24 • Broward Legacy Coral rock was used as rip-wrap on the banks of the New River in the early 1900s. (Broward County Historical Commission, James Vreeland Collection) big cypress in the Callaway Cootchee and some of the blacks and whites cleared bottom boats. Old boat captains said all Slough or along the Caloosahatchee River. these old places. This is the way most boat these places were used by the Cubans to Grandpa stayed one winter and went back landing and old pineapple and cane farms grow pineapples and sugar cane, and hogs to Arkansas, and later in 1922, moved were found by the settlers. There were and cattle to haul to Cuba because this the family to the Everglades. I think they rock walls at almost all boat landings and [was a] great place to grow hogs, cattle, worked [during] 1922 in the fields at the also at cattle or hog loading places, which and sugar cane for syrup [being] so close Hammonville [area] close to Pompano were also boat landings. to Havana, Cuba; and there was a great and around Vero Beach before coming Where syrup was made there were market for so much during the 1700s when to the lake. There, he farmed some and piles of rocks where the syrup pans sat. they think this land was farmed. also worked cleaning ground for some of And at hog or cattle loading boat landings, They said it was only about 150 miles the farmers. there were rock walls that held hogs that from the middle of the Everglades where There was only one way to clear land were used to hold breeding male boar all this was, to Havana Cuba. These old in the 1920s on the lake — by hand with hogs and, I guess other hogs. These men boat captains seemed to think the Cubans axes and machete or by burning most clearing these old farms seemed to agree were at one time Spanish and all these of the islands, ridges or a hammock. that you could tell where cattle and hogs walls were used in Cuba before they were Where it was low muck land, they had were raised and loaded because of the used here; and the Spanish had seen or some tractors to plow that up. But almost great amount of palmetto and live oak had walls like these in Spain or on other all custard apple trees or moonvine and trees growing around them with the places [where] they settled and farmed hammock ground had to be cleared by great food supply of acorns and palmetto and raised cattle and hogs. The Cubans hand. Grandpa worked lots of times berries for the hogs to eat, and where so had the best stock of cattle and hogs clearing these and there were many blacks much syrup was made. They said you there were; and even old man Hendry, and whites clearing the land and most could tell by the piles of rocks the pans sit who had the largest herds of cattle in times they got $25 to $30 an acre to clear on where it was cooked and also [where] Florida, traded with the Cubans for cattle it there. Clearing this ground is where wild cane [sugar] was growing around and hogs to breed his with. The old men grandpa hit his foot with the machete and by the mound, where squeezed cane who worked for him said that they were and cut it real bad, and blood poison set was piled and vegetation caused a mound hauled in flat bottom boat-like barges. in and he had to have his leg taken off. He growing on rich ground made by rotting Grandpa was very careful to learn all the had to wear a peg leg the rest of his life. cane stalks. Where hogs or cattle were details on most things and he spent so This is where a lot of information was loaded, they seemed to think the dock much time in the Everglades and knew learned about what was at some of these didn’t need to be as high as where syrup so many of the early settlers I don’t think sites hundreds of years before grandpa or other things were loaded because hogs there was any man that knew more about or cattle it seemed were loaded on flat the Big Cypress or Everglades than him. Volume 30 • Number 1 • Broward Legacy • 25 Coral Rock Wall (Photo by Broward County Historical Commission)

When I used to ride with him and great build two old dairy houses at Pembroke think they were built by the Cubans or the Uncle Denver in the late 1930s, he always Road and State Road 7 by the old dairy same people that used the boat landing. showed me all the old places. Daddy was that was there so long. These were on Most people tell me there were no Cubans that way also and always showed us any the southeast corner. Those rocks on the here in Florida or that the Cubans never place where there was some history to it. north side of Snake Creek on the man- traded with the Indians, so I guess no one I tried to learn all I could from grandpa made island close to the live oak ridge would believe any of this. Just like no one about the Everglades because there was were used by old man [Henry] Perry, believes about poison rains. never any history of that area so deep in who had the dairy, to make a large cattle the Everglades to learn at school. There loading ramp to load and unload cows. Some of these old boat landings are was none of this [that] people ever heard The wall on that island was on the west so far from water now no one will ever of in history books. Grandpa said there side and most settlers seem to think cattle believe boats came and went to them. was a lot of blacks and whites hiding from and hogs were loaded on that island boat But water used to be a lot higher in 1935 the law working [and] clearing that new landing because of so many live oak and than now and when a thunderstorm came ground out there. Some blacks took new palmetto that used to grow there, which up, the water sometimes rose two or names like John Henry or some town in were used for cattle and hog feed. Also three feet in a few hours then went back Georgia or Alabama where they came an old flat bottom boat was found sunk down. Even Bill Brown used to use these from. A lot of white people took names in the mud when the land east of State sudden times of high water to load hides like Brown, Roberts or Smith. Road 7 was cleared and farmed. On the on a raft and float them to the river and then to Fort Myers instead of using an ox The old boat landing on the Hotaling south side of Snake Creek was a very high rock wall in a cove that looked like a rock cart—but only in high water times. A raft farms was where Daddy share cropped at of dry cypress poles only needed two feet Northwest 95th Street and Ninth Avenue cliff, if no one ever knew it was a wall from a boat landing. I think these walls of water to carry a big load. Some hogs [North Miami]. The rock wall was used could be carried by raft down to other by Mr. Hotaling to build part of his house were made for the boat to land against instead of to hold cattle or hogs. There boat landings. People could use sudden and also a large oven to bake bread in. water rises to use water ways when no one They had a large rock oven there for years are still some old walls in the Everglades or Big Cypress that I don’t think have would ever think the small streams could that had not been used for a long time ever be used to float rafts [with heavy when we farmed there. His wife said she been moved, and some day I hope to find them. I am sure these walls were used for loads] from remote areas in Big Cypress baked bread and cakes there when they to boat landings. first settled there. three or four different things and I don’t think we know for sure what all of them The rock wall at Honey Hill on the were. But from what was passed along, I south side of Snake Creek was used to

26 • Broward Legacy Book Review By William G. Crawford, Jr., Fort Lauderdale, Florida

OUT OF THE MUCK: A History of the Broward Sheriff’s Office, 1915-2000. By William P. Cahill and Robert M. Jarvis. Xxiii and 411 pp.; illustrations, notes, index, bibliography. Carolina Academic Press: Durham, NC, 2010. $40.00 (hardbound), ISBN978-1-59460-584-0. William Cahill, a retired Florida Atlantic University professor, and Robert Jarvis, a Nova Southeastern University law professor and prolific author, have written the first history of one of the largest county sheriff’s offices in the country, the Sheriff of Broward County, Florida. This is an engaging and highly readable book. Using largely newspaper sources, along with official correspondence of the Broward Sheriff’s Office, this much-needed and well-written study traces the history of the organization from the creation of Broward County out of parts of Dade and Palm Beach counties in 1915, to the downfall of Sheriff Ken Jenne beginning in 2004, after winning the Democratic nomination for re-election as Sheriff by an overwhelming margin. Although the book’s title might seem jarring to some, it reflects the state’s history in reclaiming swampy lands during Governor Napoleon Bonaparte Broward’s administration beginning in 1905, as well as the decades of scandal and corruption in and out of the Sheriff’s office and throughout Broward County. The authors’ method in describing the evolution and growth of the Sheriff’s office is chronological and biographical, leaving to others comparative and analytical studies. They set the stage by describing the frontier justice prior to the county’s creation. Before 1915, there were only three incorporated towns: Dania, Pompano and Fort Lauderdale. Broward County had no jail. A town marshal had to lock a prisoner to a railroad boxcar until a Miami lawman arrived to take the prisoner to the Dade County jail. In those early years, cattle wars, hangings, lynching and duels, along with tar-and-feather punishments in the Florida wilderness, were commonplace. Beginning with the biography of Aden Waterman Turner, the authors tell the story of Broward County’s first sheriff (1915- 22, 1929-33). Turner confronted bootleggers, destroyed stills and intercepted smugglers from the Bahamas. Soon, Turner operated the county’s first jail, executed arrest warrants and served subpoenas. In 1930, local newspapers circulated reports that Chicago gangster Al Capone had purchased 50 acres of desolate acreage in Deerfield Beach along the Intracoastal Waterway. The authors of this book state that Capone took an “option” to purchase the property. In truth, Capone’s Miami attorney Vincent Giblin bought the property and took title merely as “trustee” for an unidentified beneficiary or beneficiaries, refusing to name his client. Speculation has only multiplied the number of stories about the transaction. See, e.g., Warranty Deed executed by E. B. Davis, Inc., in favor of Vincent C. Giblin, Trustee, on June 7, Volume 30 • Number 1 • Broward Legacy • 27 1930, and recorded in Deed Book 216, at the Kefauver Committee investigating The book ends with a short chapter page 519, of the Public Records of Broward organized crime in Broward County. on the growth of the Broward County Jail County, Florida. This is a quibble, but a Missing from the bibliography are the from a few cells in the former Dade County misunderstanding left uncorrected in the records of the Kefauver Committee, which School House at Fort Lauderdale to five press over the past eight decades. contain a verbatim transcript of Clark’s separate jail campuses in Fort Lauderdale In the ensuing seven chapters, the testimony. The authors do not undertake and Pompano Beach. To this reviewer, authors cover the administrations of a comparative study to determine whether this chapter seems an afterthought. To Paul Bryan (1922-1929), Walter Clark Broward County’s experience with Clark some readers, this material may have (1933-1942, 1943-1950), Edward Lee was unique or typical of its time. Although been more easily integrated into the text (1942-1943), Amos Hall (1950-1957), we know that investigations into alleged chronologically as the narrative unfolds. Justice Lloyd (1957-1961), Allen Michell Communist activities took place in Dade There is a small factual error in the story (1961-1966, 1966-1969), Thomas Walker County and in Tallahassee during the early of the Alderman hanging for murder on (Mar. 1966-Nov. 1966), Edward Stack 1950s, this study does not tell us whether the high seas at the Coast Guard Base on (1969-1978), Robert Butterworth (1978- such investigations took place in Broward Fort Lauderdale beach. The authors state 1982), George Brescher (1982-1985), Nick County. Absent from the bibliography is that Alderman and his confederates were Navarro (1985-1993), Ron Cochran (1993- Robert Lacey’s well-documented, Little “placed on trial before Judge Halsted Ritter 1997), Susan McCambell (1997-1998), and Man: Meyer Lansky and the Gangster Life (329).” However, as a reading of the case the early years of the administration of Ken (Little Brown, 1991). Lacey’s book includes cited by the authors at note 872 reflects, Jenne (1998-2007). Walker was the first well-sourced material on organized crime U.S. District Judge Henry D. Clayton of the sheriff to have graduated from college; Ed in Broward County, including a note Middle and Northern Districts of Alabama Stack, the first lawyer as sheriff; and Robert referencing an interview with Broward presided over the Alderman trial, not Butterworth, the first judge. criminal defense attorney Joseph Varon, Ritter. Ritter decided Alderman’s place of Lansky’s Broward attorney. execution after his conviction. See, also, In a postscript, the authors describe the Longley, What Measure You Mete: The Life beginning of Jenne’s downfall, starting with Although the authors detail the work of several Broward prosecutors in enforcing and Times of Judge Halsted Ritter (New doubts over Jenne’s use of “PowerTrac” in York: Universe Press, 2003), pp. 49-51. evaluating employees based upon crime the law, the authors inexplicably omit the clearance statistics. The story ends sadly story of Broward County’s only assistant This is a highly readable first history with the jailing of the first sheriff ever to state attorney who took the casinos to of the Broward County Sheriff’s Office. be convicted of a crime in Broward County court in 1948. Supported by ten prominent The bibliography is comprehensive, with and the appointment of career lawman Al Broward County citizens, Fort Lauderdale only a few notable omissions. The notes, Lamberti to fill the vacancy left by Jenne’s prosecutor Dwight L. Rogers, Jr., secured largely from newspaper sources and resignation. an injunction shutting down the Colonial sheriff’s correspondence files, document Inn and several other nightclubs where the material well and provide colorful Of all the sheriff stories recounted, gambling openly took place. stories for an engaging narrative. Missing the most interesting is easily the story of from this study are oral history accounts Walter Clark, remembered kindly by some The story of Nicholas G. Navarro also makes for interesting reading. A career of many of the sheriffs of Broward County. as a good and decent man but by most as Many today remember Walter Clark and a racist who oversaw a county besieged by lawman, Navarro fought his way to the top through the ballot box and the court other more recent sheriffs discussed in organized crime, which openly operated this book. Absent also are references to gambling in nightclubs and on the county’s system. Born in Cuba, Navarro moved to Pennsylvania in 1950 to live with family clerk minutes of early Broward County streets. The notorious lynching of Rubin court proceedings, including the minutes Stacey, a black man who allegedly assaulted members. He joined the U.S. Army and fought in the Korean Conflict. He started of grand jury proceedings, as early as 1915 a white woman on Davie Road, occurred on microfilm. during Clark’s administration in 1935. his law enforcement career in Miami in The coroner’s inquest found the sheriff’s 1959, as a police officer. Later, Navarro The illustrations, and there are many, deputies blameless, attributing the hanging joined the Federal Bureau of Narcotics help to tell the story. Some, like the to “person or persons unknown (93).” (precursor to the Drug Enforcement photographs of tombstones, do not add Governor David Sholtz ordered prosecutors Agency). After Navarro returned to much, if anything, to the narrative. The to undertake a full investigation, which led South Florida, Broward Sheriff Ed Stack 1935 photograph of the public lynching of to a grand jury hearing. After two days of hired Navarro to run the organized crime Ruben Stacey is, however, to paraphrase an hearings, the grand jury largely supported division. Elected as a “nonpolitical” Sheriff old saying, a picture that shouts “a thousand the inquest’s findings. of Broward County in 1985, Navarro words,” a stark reminder of a day not so immediately made headlines by firing long ago when law and order dissolved Florida governors suspended Clark 30 of the agency’s 600 deputies. Other into murder. twice for failing to perform his duties headlines include confronting Judge This is an excellent book well worth as sheriff. Governor Spessard Holland William Hoeveler over federal caps on jail suspended Clark in 1942 for allowing open reading by anyone interested in the history population, ignoring Broward Chief Judge of Broward County as well as the evolution gambling and bookmaking. Eight years Miette Burnstein’s mandate that deputies later, Governor Fuller Warren suspended of one of the largest sheriff’s offices in provide better security at the County the country. Those interested in criminal Clark for, again, permitting widespread Courthouse, and his deputies appearing gambling. The suspension followed justice, in general, and Florida politics will in action on the popular FOX television find this work worthwhile as well. Clark’s embarrassing performance before series COPS. 28 • Broward Legacy Curcie House, circa 1920s

You Can Help Save History from the Dust Heap Each day more of our local history is lost by the passage of time, the passing of early pioneers, and the loss of historic and archaeological sites throughout Broward County.

But you can help. The Broward County Historical Commission has been working to preserve local history since 1972 with help from people like you.

By donating old family photos and documents, volunteering at events, and providing donations to the Broward County Historical Commission Trust Fund, your efforts help preserve our history.

Consider how you can help save our heritage and create a legacy for your community by contributing your time, historical items, or your generosity. What you do today maintains the dignity of history for the future. Call us at 954-357-5553.

Monetary donations may be made to: Broward County Historical Commission Trust Fund 301 S.W. 13th Avenue Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33312

A Service of the Broward County Board of County Commissioners This public document was promulgated at a cost of $804.00 or $2.01 per copy, to provide historical information to the public about Broward County. A p u b l i c a tion of the B r o w a r d C o u n t y H i s t o r i c a l C o m m i s s i o n

volume 30 • number 1 • 2010

Pembroke Pines I Remember When: The Early Years

The City That Almost Wasn’t

Past and Present

The Pembroke Pines Historical Museum

Old Walls

Pinus Elliotti, var. densa, c. 1980. Book Review (Photo by Gerry Witoshynsky)