hungry traveller. Where life is sweet and the welcome warm (once the snow melts) When winter begins to loosen its icy grip, there’s cause for celebration in – and it’s not just because spring is around the corner. Claire Nelson visited a traditional sugar shack during season and had a come-back-for-more taste of the local hospitality

he deep bind with all things maple the French-Canadians held on freeze of the – it’s as much a part of the culture tight to their heritage. Today the T Canadian as ice hockey. The maple leaf is province is predominantly French- winter is coming the symbol on the national flag, speaking (it’s the official language), to an end, and with after all. And if is the and expressions of Europe are it the thawing of blood that runs through Canada’s everywhere, in the classical snow, the first optimistic buds veins, then Quebec is its beating architecture of Quebec City and the appearing on trees and the faint heart. Nearly 70 per cent of the countless boulangeries. But it’s still sound of honking as geese return world’s maple syrup comes from Canada, and what you get is an to the lakes. Across this vast, this single province. undeniable je ne sais quoi set among rugged country, Canadians are Quebec is noticeably different the breathtaking North American preparing for what might just from the rest of the country – and wilderness. be the most anticipated time of this is a point of pride. The region Embraced by the province of the year: maple season. was originally colonised by France, to the west and New There’s no denying the ties that and when it later fell to the British, Brunswick to the east, Quebec is divided lopsidedly in two by the St Lawrence River. The colossal northern region is charged with wild lakes and rivers and stretches right up into the Arctic tundra. In winter it’s an area for skiing, snowshoeing and dog-sledding. The tiny sliver of southern Quebec is pinned to the northern part by the two cities (Montreal and Quebec City) which span the river and contain most of the province’s population. Southern Quebec is also home to most of the province’s 13,500 maple syrup producers, making this the prime destination for people on the maple trail. THE SWEET SPOT Sugaring – the collection of maple SHORT AND SWEET In spring, as the snow sap – takes place in early spring, melts, the maple syrup when temperatures hit the sweet season starts and lasts

PHOTOGRAPHS LAUREN KOLYN spot between freezing nights → IMAGES ISTOCK/GETTY PHOTOGRAPHS: for about six weeks

deliciousmagazine.co.uk <#R#> hungry traveller.

and warmer days. The finely of maple syrup making, welcoming used to say, ‘We have to work with balanced temperature fluctuation in visitors to celebrate this age-old nature.’ And that’s what I do.” builds pressure inside the tree craftsmanship. Back inside the shack, the dining St Lawrence and encourages the sap to flow. room was ready for lunch. Long QUEBEC River NEW N The season lasts for about six WORKING WITH NATURE communal tables with chequered Quebec BRUNSWICK City weeks, during which time the I travelled to Montreal to get a taste tablecloths were lined up in front of E W trunks are tapped continuously of it myself. There are plenty of the large windows with views of the S until temperatures creep up a few sugar shacks a short distance from snowy woods. André’s wife Danielle PIC BOIS more degrees, the sap stops and the city, and I made a beeline for was in the kitchen, managing the Montreal MAINE it’s all over for another year. one about an hour’s drive east in food. Today, as with every Friday, ONTARIO Although the start of the season Brigham, a small mountainside Saturday and Sunday, Pic Bois was has historically been between village in the Eastern Townships. cooking for up to 125 visitors. VERMONT 8 and 12 March, the exact timings As I turned my car into the woods NEW are ruled by the whims of the I saw smoke rising through the early THE BEST KIND Toronto HAMPSHIRE weather. The effects of climate morning mist, and soon a wooden OF COMFORT FOOD NEW YORK ATLANTIC change are already causing cabin came into view, a rustic idyll. The meal is key to the cabane à OCEAN noticeable inconsistencies: in recent My destination was Pic Bois, a sucre experience. During maple years, warmer temperatures have cabane à sucre run by the Pollender season, almost every sugar shack OPPOSITE PAGE, OTHER SUGAR SHACKS CLOCKWISE initiated sap flow as early as family since 1993. André Pollender will serve up a variant of the CHILL OUT WORTH SEEKING OUT Beatnik Hotel FROM TOP LEFT mid-February leading to occasional came out to greet me. “Bonjour, traditional menu, centred around Traditional maple VEGAN-FRIENDLY: Handfield bumper years. Then again, last hello!” he called out, eyes smiling a few key dishes: soupe aux pois syrup tap using (45 minutes’ drive northeast of Montreal) year’s cold daytime temperatures above a grey beard, red checked (split-pea soup); fèves au lard a metal bucket; It’s rare to find a sugar shack menu that offers maple syrup caused Quebec’s syrup output to shirt and sturdy boots – every bit (baked beans in fat with maple vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options, but farmer André drop almost 27 per cent. In this the quintessential Canadian. syrup); tourtière (meat pie); and Pollender; as this countryside inn happily makes the effort. business, Mother Nature calls the André had learned how to make (fried pork rinds). the sap is heated There’s accommodation and a spa onsite too, so it gives off shots – which is a problem for an maple syrup as a young lad, It’s food that nods back to the you don’t have to move far after your lavish lunch. clouds of steam; industry that contributes CAN$384 watching his father and grandfather pioneering days of lumberjacks and emptying the aubergehandfield.com/en/sugar-shack million (£225 million) to Canada’s tapping trees using the traditional fur-trappers, who needed high- WHERE TO STAY buckets of sap annual GDP. methods. André, however, became calorie sustenance to keep them NEAR PIC BOIS is a daily task; GOING GOURMET: Cabane à Sucre Au Pied snow shoes for Maple syrup isn’t called liquid a cabinetmaker but had his epiphany going in brutally cold conditions. • BEATNIK HOTEL De Cochon (45 minutes’ drive west of Montreal) getting around gold for nothing. It’s about 25 times one morning. “I wanted to buy some For the rest of us it’s simply good, A comfortable aparthotel the woods in Renowned chef and restaurateur Martin Picard more valuable than oil – which is maple syrup locally, and I couldn’t old-fashioned comfort food. The just down the road from Pic winter puts a twist on tradition with this cavernous where the Federation of Quebec find the right taste, like my father spread on the day of my visit also Bois. Mixing up the best bits temple to meat and maple. With dishes such Maple Syrup Producers comes in: was producing,” he told me. “So included maple sausages, roast of rustic and retro style, the as suckling pig with duck fat crepes and a government-sanctioned agency I thought: I’ll have to make my own.” potatoes, coleslaw and a crisp green 17 rooms and studios feature crumble pie with maple taffy , this that’s essentially a cartel. The We headed into the woods, our salad with Pic Bois maple dressing. record players rather than feast isn’t for the faint of heart. subject is a divisive one among the boots crunching in the snow. I could The room was filled with the chatter TVs, and the folksy, sociable aupieddecochon.ca workers of Quebec – not everyone hear the rumble of a tractor in the of families, friends and strangers vibe carries into the common is happy working under such distance as workers completed the getting to know each other. There areas, where there’s a ping control (they’re obliged to sell their daily task of checking the metal were bottles of house maple syrup pong table, library and pool. syrup to the Federation). But on the buckets hanging from every tree. plonked along each table, much like Doubles from £80; plus side it protects an industry that All 1,100 of them… André’s is a ketchup in a diner, and I felt no beatnikhotel.com would otherwise shrink or swell comparatively small operation. shame in drizzling syrup on a slice of every year depending on the yield “My neighbour on the other hill has fresh baguette; this was pure maple • LE ST-MARTIN BROMONT each season. The Federation sets 27,000 trees,” he told me. “One of oblivion and I was there to enjoy it. HOTEL & SUITES quotas for export sales and anything the bigger ones I know has 150,000.” Dessert was a rich maple pie with Fireplaces and mountain over that level is kept in a vast reserve Maple trees have to reach about crumbly shortcrust pastry, and views are par for the course bank to top up future shortfalls. 12 years of age before they’re tapped grands-pères au sirop d’érable: in this chateau-style hotel 15 Sales to the public, however, are for sap. At Pic Bois they use the tender dumplings cooked in maple minutes from Pic Bois. Here not controlled by the Federation, traditional method of taps and syrup until sticky and very moreish. small comforts make a big and buying straight from the source buckets, but on larger-scale farms The latter is Danielle’s speciality. “In impression, such as large, will ensure you get the good stuff. the sap is collected via a system of English it translates as ‘grandfathers sumptuous beds, in-room Visit Quebec in early spring and tubes and pumps, sucking the sap in maple syrup’,” she told me, coffee machines and a you can experience a cabane à sucre, straight to the sugar shack. “They laughing. “I don’t know where it heated pool with bar service. or sugar shack. It’s a classic get five times more production than comes from. It’s an old recipe, you Doubles from £108 B&B; Canadian tradition, and primarily we can make just with gravity,” know?” I nodded and surrendered lestmartinbromont.com

Quebecker, which opens the doors RAVENELLE SAME PHOTOGRAPH: HOTEL BEATNIK KOLYN. LAUREN PHOTOGRAPHS: SHACK SUGAR Andre explained, “but my father to the urge for a second helping. →

deliciousmagazine.co.uk <#R#> deliciousmagazine.co.uk<#L#> steam, standing over a vat of hot of avat over standing steam, through the thick, sweet-smelling visible barely André, Ifound room. boiling the to see door next myself to roll had Ipractically lunch After AT WORK MASTER THE to tradition. is maple syrup as to maple syrup important as is tradition that clear It was Dinner £70 for two, plus drinks plus two, for £70 Dinner salmon. maple-glazed delicate to tartare deer robust from notes, right the all hits Godin Emmanuel Chef agem. is Bromont in restaurant well-lit elegant, this location: golf-resort the by off put be Don’t Dinner £60 for two, plus drinks plus two, £60 for Dinner overdose. syrup amaple offset to thing the Just salsa. truffle and celeriac fennel, with ‘risotto’ quinoa vegan zest; orange and cedar in marinated bison fresh: light and things keeps menu health-conscious restaurant’s this aspa, in Set Dinner £95 for two, plus drinks drinks plus two, £95 for Dinner spaghetti. lobster famous their and gras, foie with boeuf onglet include classics ongoing but regularly, changes menu blackboard The institution. culinary brilliant this at abound seafood and Steak Dinner £50 for two, plus drinks plus two, for £50 Dinner list. wine the to produce the from local, what’s on is focus The chanterelles. with cod wild or rabbit fried succulent think menu: seasonal achanging with gastropub French-Canadian Popular • RESTAURANT DU SPA EASTMAN EASTMAN SPA DU • RESTAURANT ROI DU CELLIER • LE PUBLIQUE • MAISON BEEF • JOE OUTSIDE MONTREAL OUTSIDE MONTREAL IN MONTREAL WHERE TO EAT WHERE joebeef.ca maisonpublique.com (royalbromont.com) about the grades of maple syrup maple of grades the about delicious. see (left); syrup into sap the Turning (spa-eastman.com) To get a litre of pure maple syrup maple syrup pure of To alitre get to 67 cent. per closer is syrup the while sugar, cent 2per only is sap Maple crystallisation). (causing high too spike or it sour) low (making too doesn’t drop temperature the ensure to monitoring constant Itit. needs concentrate content and water the to reduce cooked gently is sap The dials. checking and stirring liquid, Kitchen to learn learn to Kitchen are difficult to resist. to difficult are place this of helpings Second one them. of be I’ll I’m sure And arrival. to its welcome to Quebec back coming keep will visitors hungry flowing, maple sap the she keeps as long So know?” you Nature, “Mother shrug. nonchalant a gave and heBut smiled future. the about he worries if me. amoment For Iwondered told André to happen,” going what’s exactly know “We never climate. unpredictable the is which of –notleast for account to variables many so are there winemaking, with As taste. and quality of pinnacle to that maple syrup getting in involved what’s for appreciation a new sugar. of coat comforting a by no doubt, – insulated, cold the to mind seemed nobody but clouds, in out puffed breath Everyone’s refuse. few meal, ahuge after even candy; chewy a into it hardened as stick lolly ice an one around each twirling onto it, straight syrup of dollops poured and snow clean with filled atrough presented André maple taffy. some for outside ventured visitors cleared, were doesn’t cheap. come maple syrup good why sap. of more That’s or litres 40 awhopping need you’ll As I chewed on my taffy I had Ihad my on taffy Ichewed As tables later, as while A short

RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. FOOD PHOTOGRAPHS: GARETH MORGANS. STYLING: WEI TANG until piping hot to serve. to hot piping until • syrup maple • 2tbsp s • 2tbsp duck whole • 2kg toast. on simply or sausages, or belly pork with great flavour. extra for beans the into • • 1red onion, finely chopped oil olive • Splash maple-baked beans Roast duck rich with treats nature’s sweetest of one to recipes three created has Austen-Smith Sophie editor food Deputy pancakes? on it drizzling beyond inspiration need but syrup maple of flavour the Love Recipes at home to try garlic cloves, crushed crushed cloves, • 3garlic FOR FOR 2 TIME OVEN TIME6. 20 HANDS-ON SERVES MIN, AHEAD TEAM’S parsley, chopped Small 1 MAKE FOOD The beans would also taste taste also would beans The TIPS carrot, finely chopped carrot, THE MAPLE BEANS MAPLE THE handful flatleaf fresh Reheat in a pan on the hob hob the on apan in Reheat 3days. to up for fridge the in covered keep will beans The juices, then stir the juices juices the stir then juices, cooking and fat duck the separate serving, Before flakes salt ea ½ HOURS

Stir in the garlic and tomato purée purée tomato and garlic the in Stir softened. 10-12 until for minutes carrot and onion the Fry alid. with casserole shallow alarge in oil the 2 glaze. to syrup maple 2 tbsp with brush cooking, of end the before Ten minutes cooking. even ensure to occasionally basting and turning 2hours, for cook 3 and fan/gas 160°C/140°C to heat the Reduce minutes. 30 for roast then salt, sea the with over all Rub tin. roasting adeep inside set rack wire a on 7. duck the Sit fan/gas 200°C 220°C/ to oven the Heat off. chill the take to cooking before hour 1 • mustard dijon • 1tbsp syrup maple • 2tbsp stock vegetable • 400ml tomatoes cherry tin • 400g • pur tomato • 2tbsp Take the duck out of the fridge an an fridge the of out Take duck the – but any whisky will do) will whisky any – but Splash Splash rinsed and drained 2 Meanwhile, for the beans, heat heat beans, the for Meanwhile, x 400g tin x 400g whisky (Canadian, ideally whisky haricot beans, beans, s haricot ée

for a treat, châteauneuf du pape. → pape. du châteauneuf atreat, for or, rhône-villages du côtes smooth and amellow –try here rule reds WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE fibre 10.2g salt, 2.4g 27.1g (12.7g carbs sugars), protein, 72.6g saturated), (6g fat SERVING PER parsley. chopped freshly of asprinkling with beans maple the with serve 3 tips). and Ahead Make (see thickened and reduced has sauce the until or more, minutes 25 for uncovered oven the to return then ingredients, remaining the in stir lid, the Remove 1½ for hours. temperature) the reduced you’ve (once duck the alongside oven the in cook and cover then pepper, black and salt with simmer, season agentle to Bring stock. the of rest the with pan the to add and stock vegetable the of alittle with can tomato the out rinse tomatoes, cherry and beans the Add more. 2minutes for cook and Carve or shred the duck and and duck the shred or Carve 635kcals, 23.3g Soft, ripe ripe Soft, hungry traveller. hungry traveller.

Baked salmon in a creamy Oaty maple and • 300g rolled oats the mixture into the lined cake tin, maple and spinach sauce pecan flapjacks • 200g jumbo oats level the top, pressing down slightly, SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN MAKES 16 SQUARES. HANDS-ON TIME then bake for 25 minutes. 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 25 MIN FOR THE DRIZZLE TOPPING 2 Remove the tin from the oven and Once cooked, the salmon will • 25g white chocolate, chopped transfer to a wire rack. Score with MAKE AHEAD keep covered in the fridge Once cooled, the flapjacks • 2 tbsp maple syrup 16 squares, then leave to cool MAKE for up to 2 days. Gently AHEAD will keep in an airtight • 1 tbsp shelled pecans, toasted completely in the tin. reheat until piping hot to serve. container for up to 4 days. in a dry pan and chopped 3 For the topping, put the chocolate FOOD Use other nuts instead and maple syrup in a heatproof bowl • Splash olive oil TEAM’S of pecans, and/or dark YOU’LL ALSO NEED… set over a pan of barely simmering TIP • 4 x 200g sustainable salmon chocolate in the topping. • 20cm square cake tin lined water (don’t let the bowl touch the fillets, skinned with non-stick baking paper water); heat until just melted, then • 75ml dry white wine • 300g butter, plus extra to grease stir and drizzle over the flapjacks. • 300ml half-fat crème fraîche • 150g demerara sugar 1 Heat the oven to 150°C/130°C fan/ Sprinkle with chopped pecans, then • 2 tsp wholegrain mustard • 50g maple syrup gas 2. Put all the ingredients, except cut into squares to serve. • 1-2 tbsp maple syrup • 125g golden syrup the nuts and oats, in a large pan with PER FLAPJACK SQUARE 365kcals, • 1-2 tbsp lemon juice • ¼ tsp ground cinnamon a pinch of salt and stir until melted. 22.4g fat (10.8g saturated), 4.6g • 200g baby spinach • 75g shelled pecans, toasted Add the nuts and oats and stir well protein, 34.9g carbs (13.5g sugars), • Small handful fresh dill, in a dry pan and chopped with a wooden spoon to coat. Spoon 0.4g salt, 2.8g fibre roughly chopped • Steamed waxy potatoes to serve

1 Heat a splash of olive oil in a large heavy-based shallow frying pan or shallow casserole with a lid over a medium heat. Add the salmon, skinned-side up, and cook until just golden and beginning to cook through (about 5 minutes). Transfer to a plate and set aside. 2 Add the white wine, crème fraîche, mustard, 1 tbsp each of the maple syrup and lemon juice to the pan with 75ml water, stir to combine, then bring almost to the boil. QUEBEC’S CLASSIC DISHES Season with plenty of salt and black pepper, then return the salmon to The area’s culinary character is predominantly a blend of French, the pan, skinned-side down. Cover North American and Jewish influences. Meat and fat feature with the lid and cook for 5 minutes, heavily (foie gras crops up almost everywhere – be warned) as do then remove the lid and scatter over seafood, potatoes and . the spinach. Cook, uncovered, for • covered with squeaky cheese curds and about 3 more minutes until the gravy – the ubiquitous speciality of the province. spinach has wilted and the salmon • Viande fumée This smoked meat resembles something between is just cooked through. Taste the pastrami and corned beef, and is especially prevalent in Montreal, sauce and add more maple syrup, where Jewish delis are plentiful and competition is hot for the best lemon juice or seasoning to taste. smoked meat sandwich or bagel. 3 Sprinkle the salmon with plenty • Tourtière A simple pie of spiced minced beef, veal or pork in of chopped dill and serve with a thin golden pastry, this is often prepared for special family steamed waxy potatoes. occasions and makes regular appearances on sugar shack menus. PER SERVING 619kcals, 44.6g fat • Cretons A salty pork spread made with onions, garlic and (13.6g saturated), 44.4g protein, breadcrumbs, commonly spread on toast for breakfast. 5.9g carbs (4.6g sugars), 0.4g salt, NEXT • Cidre de glacé This makes the most of Canada’s climatic extremes 1.2g fibre MONTH using the same method as for . Apples are left to freeze over WINE EDITOR’S CHOICE Light, bone- The thrilling winter before being pressed for their concentrated juice, which is dry whites are out here – this needs sights, sounds and flavours then fermented. The result is ‘ice ’: sweet, crisp and very boozy. a richer wine such as an Australian of Bali semillon-chardonnay blend.

<#L#> deliciousmagazine.co.uk