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Newsletter 4 FETHIYE TURKEY ethiye (FET-hee-yeh) is Fone of the most beautiful and popular resort destinations on the Mediterranean Sea. With the green pine tree covered mountains of the Tourus Range protecting three sides, nestled at the base of Mount Mendos, steeped in ancient history and looking out over the stunning turquoise waters of Fethiye Bay, it is easy to see why this town and this region of southwest Turkey draws visitors from around the world. As with many old cities Fethiye has undergone a few HISTORY name changes over the centuries. In the beginning it was known as Telmessos. In the 700s AD the name What must have been going through the mind of the scholarly explorer, Charles was changed for a short period to Anastasiopolis. Dur- Fellows, that day in 1838? Here he stood, far from the comforts of his English ing the Ottoman Empire the town was known as Makri. home, in an isolated part of southwest Asia Minor, Anatolia. This beautifully rug- The modern name of Fethiye is in honor of Captain ged, mountainous, southern coastal region was known to only a few outsiders Fethi Bey. The captain was a brave Turkish military and the writers of classic antiquity…ancient Lycia. What must Fellows have been aviator who, together with his navigator, lost his life in thinking as he gazed in wonder at a site that no western man had laid eyes upon a 1914 plane crash. for over 2,000 years? Though Fethiye and the surrounding region have nu- Yet this coastline was not some murky ancient backwater. For millennia this had merous ancient architectural ruins, the town itself is been an important international shipping lane. Massive trading fleets had sailed modern. This is due to the fact that an earthquake here heavily laden with copper and tin, wine and olive oil, silver and gold. Plunder- caused a great deal of damage in 1856 only to be fol- ing pirates and the empirical navies that sought their destruction also sailed these lowed a century later by another quake that basically waters. In the 1st century AD the Christian apostle Paul knew this coastline well flattened the city. From the rubble of the old town the for he too had sailed here many times during his missionary journeys modern Fethiye was built. In ages past the anchorage Fellows had read Homer’s 800 BC description of the Lycians. They were said to of imperial fleets and marauding pirates, today Fethiye have been brave and formidable warriors. Fellows knew of the Lycian social and Bay and harbor is port to romantic sailing crafts, sturdy fiercely independent and democratic political structures from Herodotus, Strabo, fishing boats, sleek yachts and elegant cruise ships. Pliny and Plutarch. Perhaps the city had undergone such destruction through conquest that there was simply nothing left to bare testament to its once proud existence. Fellows knew the people of Xanthos did not easily submit to outside rule. In 546 BC the Persian General, Harpagos, laid siege to Xanthos in the name of his emperor, Cyrus the Great. In the face of certain defeat and the ignominious life of slavery they thought would surely follow, the men of Xanthos gathered their women, chil- dren and elderly into the main fortification … locked the doors … set it ablaze and burned it to the ground. The men then charged out of the city gates and attacked the massive Persian army. All the men of Xanthos perished. The soldiers of Xan- thos chose death for themselves and their families rather than chains. When, five centuries later, the Roman General Marcus Junius Brutus laid siege to the city, the men of Xanthos, to the great sorrow and absolute amazement of the Roman Legionaries and their General…did the exact same thing. Going west along the coast, not far from where the capital city of ancient Xanthos, the capital of long forgotten Lycia. There in front Xanthos was said to be located, is the ancient Lycian town of Telm- of him, dating back nearly 2,500 years to around 600 BC was the essos (Fethiye). The town had long been known for its soothsayers, imposing, beautifully carved and engraved white marble and stone prophets and fortunetellers. Like many of the cities of Lycia, with the tomb of Lycia’s King Erbinna, now referred to as the Nereid Monu- coming of Alexander the Great and his armies in 334 BC, the people ment (Sea Nymphs). And all around Fellows lay the stunning eviden- of Telmessos offered only token resistance. They saw Alexander as tial ruins of a powerful and rich culture that had been forgotten in the a liberator from their Persian oppressors. Alexander’s most trusted mists of time. Modern visitors to Xanthos will not find the tomb of prophet, Aristander, was from Telmessos. It was in Telmessos that the Lycian King, however. Sir Charles Fellows had it disassembled Aristander foretold that Alexander would destroy King Darius and stone by stone…statue by statue, loaded aboard HMS Beacon, to- conquer the mighty Persian Empire. The prophecy was exactly ful- gether with seventy additional huge crates filled with priceless arti- filled. The Telmessosian remained at Alexander’s side throughout facts, and shipped back to England. Today the famous Monument of the conqueror’s short life. Nereid is housed in London’s British Museum where, over the past And what was it that Charles Fellows saw that morning in 1838 that century and a half, it has been seen and admired by more people amazed him so? Fellows had discovered the ruins of the lost city of than all those that looked upon it over the previous 2,500 years. © 2010 maps.com 10 7 1 - 6 8 13 11 9 12 6 5 4 3 2 14 FETHIYE AREA PLACES OF INTEREST Christian Crusaders out of Turkey. The Tomb of King Amintas is perhaps the most recognizable The Amphitheater of Ancient Telmessos was built by the 1 image of Fethiye. Carved into the face of a cliff over looking 3 Romans when the region was a province of the Empire. The the town and bay, the elaborate tomb is believed to have been con- theater, seating 1,500, was discovered and excavated during the structed in the 4th century BC. modern day expansion of the town’s waterfront. The Fethiye Castle (ruins) was built on a hill that overlooks the The Old Mosque and the Hamam (Turkish Bath House) are 2 town and bay. At first it was the home to the Knights of St. John 4 located in the old part of town known as the Paspature Bazaar. who were affiliated with the Knights of Rhodes. The fortification was The hamam is still in use today. The two buildings date from the Ot- still in use when the Ottoman Empire came to power and drove the toman Empire. The Fethiye Museum is located in the middle of town. The museum SHORE EXCURSIONS houses an interesting collection of artifacts from the ancient Lycian, 5 To make the most of your visit to Fethiye and surrounding Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman periods. One of the most valuable areas we suggest you take one of the organized Shore Ex- pieces in the museum is called the “Trilingual Stele”. It shows writing in the cursions. For information concerning tour content and pric- Aramaic, Lycian and Greek languages. Much like the Rosetta stone helped ing, consult your Shore Excursion Order Form or contact in the translation of Egyptian hieroglyphics, this monolith has helped in the the Shore Excursion Desk. When going ashore, be advised understanding of the Lycian language. to take only necessary items and secure any valuables on- The Harbor is lined with restaurants, cafes and shops. It is a great board. 6 place to take a walk or relax with a cool drink and enjoy the activities of the bustling waterfront. LOCAL CUSTOMS Calis Beach is just north of Fethiye. The beach stretches for a couple Bargaining: Prices are often set but some shops will bargain 7 of miles along the bay. There are plenty of bars, cafes and shops along Tipping: Wages are generally very low in bars and restau- with a water park that is great for the kids. rants. Your tip will be appreciated much more than you real- Kayakoy is just south of Fethiye. It is a ize. A 10% tip is customary. strangely eerie ghost town. It had been a 8 LOCAL CUISINE AND DRINK SPECIALTIES Greek village up until 1923. At that time Turkey and Greece made a swap of their respective Some of the traditional dishes of Turkey include: Cabbage ethnic populations that were living in the other’s Dolma, a steamed cabbage leaf stuffed with rice, herbs, country. Sitting silent on the hillsides, Kayakoy spices, pine nuts and currants. Sis kebab, skewered lamb has been abandoned ever since. cubes that have been marinated in olive oil, milk, onions, to- mato sauce, salt and pepper then grilled. Alinazik is cooked Olu Deniz Beach is south of Fethiye just across the mountain. A long ground meat over a mixture of roasted eggplant, garlic, yo- strip of wide white sand with mountains on three sides of the bay… 9 gurt and green peppers. Baklava is a sweet layered pastry of this is one of the nicest beaches in the Mediterranean. There are plenty of light, flakey, buttered dough and pistachios or walnuts, baked facilities, cafes, restaurants, bars and water sports available. and then covered with a hot syrup of sugar, lemon juice and Dalyan is located just inland from the coast, northwest of Fethiye.
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