tj reviews, events and information

MARKETS OF TIANJIN Get Your Haggle On See p2

THE BUZZ

TRANSPORT WHAT A RELIEF

A Tianjin bus driver recently made a toilet map to correspond with his bus route in response to passengers’ ongoing bathroom needs. Driver Wei Weizhi created the map after an embarrassed senior relieved himself on the bus after asking where the the nearest toilet was located. Wei spent two months visiting all 34 stops on the 903 bus route to find the nearest public bathroom to each stop. His goal was to make things more convenient for his passengers. The restrooms – 30 in total – are marked on the normal bus route map by a red circle. Wei’s telephone number is also printed – just in case there are any location changes.

RANDOM NUMBER ENTERTAINMENT METRO-POLE-ITAN

Tianjin Metro riders were treated to an impromptu pole dance show last month after an unidentified foreigner put on a 20-minute performance on Line 2. The show, which began around 9pm, lasted for eight metro stops. When photos of the dance appeared on Weibo, netizens questioned

woman doing the same wouldwhether provoke a Chinese a similar positive reaction. Tianjin …is the number of new food waste treatment stations being built Metro authorities advised 7 commuters against its food waste processing needs, according to Tianjin Daily. Each copying the woman, in Tianjin. The city will be the first in able to fully meet all of station can treat seven tons of food waste per day and will serve due to the possibility of surrounding businesses and communities. injury.

July/August 2016 1 COVER STORY

As a trading port city, it’s no surprise that Tianjin is full of markets. There are places you can haggle over the price of a television remote and spend hours traipsing aisles of cheap and colorful goods. There are curiously named places like ‘Taobao Street.’ There are places of both life and commerce. So, whether you’re looking for antiques, local snacks, fashionable (and unfashionable) clothing or flowers – we’ve got you covered with our selection of the city’s best markets. Markets of Tianjin A GUIDE TO SHOPPING IN THE CITY

BY DOMINIQUE WONG PHOTOS BY HOLLY LI

2 July/August 2016 HAIMEN CULTURAL SHOPPING MARKET

The market’s proper name may be Haimen Cultural Shopping Market due to its location by the river, but we prefer the affectionate moniker ‘Grandma’s Market.’ Although we came up with the nickname because of Haimen’s proximity to our photographer’s grandma’s house, it seems particularly appropriate, given that the

small shops selling tasteful clothing for men, women and children. The clean European-style building is rather inviting,market’s and offerings we see are plenty skewed of designs towards that more would mature delight tastes. mom Split and into dad. three The sections,other two the sections first is housemade upa massive of food market and assorted goods markets. The fruit is cheap and the offerings exhaustive. Look out for the power drills, jade bracelets, TV remotes and rocks. If you are after a one-stop shop, try Grandma’s Market for a picturesque and comprehensive shopping experience. Daily, 8:30am-7:30pm; hours vary; Jinjiang Lu, Hebei 海门购物文化市场 河北区江都路岷江桥 (近满江道)

CAO ZHUANGZI FLOWER MARKET

Go West, they said. So we did – and we implore you to do the same. Gigantic interconnected glasshouses await you: greenery for miles and succulents galore. It’s a gardener’s paradise, but those who simply want to brighten up their rooms

(RMB1,000+), tree or rock, or pick a pot of fragrant lavender or cacti. Need some outdoorwith a plant furniture? or two Caowill Zhuangzi’salso find something got it. Meanwhile, to suit. You the can building go big next with door a fountain is full of fresh flowers at ridiculously low prices. We’re talking an enormous bunch of orchids for RMB35, a generous gift bouquet of flowers for RMB120 – that kind of subwaything. While stop theand prices market are (a competitive, distance ably note covered that thereby a RMB5 seems tuk-tuk to be limited ride) there variety is aon large offer. mall The and flower children’s market park, is a bit ensuring ‘out there,’ fun forliterally, all. but between the closest Daily, 9am-5pm; Cao Zhuangzi, Xiqing 曹庄子花卉市场 西青区曹庄子

July/August 2016 3 Located in busy downtown Tianjin, Nanshi Food Street stands out, due to the ancient- NANSHI FOOD looking building resembling a palace. Inside, a rich array of food shops are spread through the market’s four quarters, while upstairs houses a number of sit-down STREET restaurants serving from all around the country (with a few international

to satisfy even the fussiest diner. Visitors can try traditional Tianjin snacks such as the goubulioptions steamedfor good stuffedmeasure). bun, With erduoyan over 100 fried food cake shops and crispyand restaurants, deep-fried Nanshi dough istwist. bound There are tourist vibes, sure, and the decor is in need of refreshment (it looks like the place hasn’t been refurbished since the 80s). But, all food considered, it’s still a cool place to check out. If nothing else, you can stock up on local snacks for friends and family back home. Daily, 6am-11pm; Shenyi Dajie, Heping 南市食品街 和平区慎益大街

SHENYANG DAO ANTIQUES MARKET

Shenyang Dao Antiques Market brings Harry Potter’s Diagon Alley to mind. There is a sense of magic in the air as friendly shopkeepers peddle old wares and treasures in winding alleys. A bounty of revolutionary memorabilia, trinkets, furniture, clocks and more await the keen antique eye. Are the goods real or fake? Probably a bit of both.

if you’re on a budget, RMB10 dried corn necklaces, we can only surmise that these are someBut with real RMB200-ly good deals.pieces Locals of broken say thatporcelain that Thursdays (“from the are Yuan the dynasty,” best time we’re to visit told) (or or, worst, depending on how you deal with crowds), as the number of vendors increases to pack out the place. Daily, 8am-5pm; Shenyang Dao, Heping 沈阳道古玩市场 和平区沈阳道

4 July/August 2016 DA HUTONG

That’s ‘da’ as in ‘big’, rather than slang for ‘the’. And big it is. Encompassing four buildings – each with four levels – as well as outdoor stalls, Da Hutong is the largest wholesale market in Tianjin. A hive of activity, the area is vibrant and, like all good markets, a bit messy. Trolleys are piled high with brightly colored underwear; samples of local peanut candy are willingly doled out; and rubbish

(within reason), Da Hutong stocks it – and at super-low prices. The goodsdots the on sidewalk offer include after baby a day gear, of trade. cosmetics, Whatever kitchenware, you’re looking household for buy nail polish for RMB7 and have a thoroughly good time. The marketappliances, closes clothing, reasonably accessories early though, and stationery. so get there You with can eattime snacks, to spare and bargain to your heart’s (or wallet’s) content. [Note: as we went to print we heard news reports that Da Hutong will soon be

Daily, 9.30am-5pm; 104-244 Beima Lu, Hongqiao 大胡同 红桥区北马路104-244号 relocated to Wangdingdi]

TAOBAO STREET

If you are young, looking for fun or simply enjoy the atmosphere of a closely packed market, check out Taobao Street, where you can pick up cute T-shirts emblazoned with tongue-in-cheek slogans (we particularly waimao attire (labeled clothes that are typically likewith ‘PSYCHO’) small shops or thanquality a street. But with 20-kuai gym bags and NBA- exported for sale). The indoor market is more of a colossal garage filled shopkeeper tells us) it’s as if Taobao Street really is Taobao: the sounds of dealsprinted being socks made selling are for like RMB15 clicks of (“these a computer are really mouse, expensive while theonline,” quality a of the gear on offer is just as suspect. But there are many gems hidden away here, with one store near the back of the long ‘street’ selling quality brands such as 'Calvin Klein' at discounted – yet not absurdly cheap – prices. Daily, 9.30am-5pm; 59 Jintang Lu (close to Ren Ren Le Supermarket) 名家淘宝 街 津塘路59号(近人人 乐超市)

July/August 2016 5 BAZNDEI Eat Your Art Out

Yunnan is a province that has inspired countless artists: There are the winding al- the diversity of dishes found in leyways of Lijiang, the soaring peaks of Tiger the(RMB150 region. per person) reflects Leaping Gorge, the sights and sounds of We start off with liang cai Kunming. All these scenes have been immor- (cold dishes), which include marinated food. Excitingly, the cocktail menu here was talized in literature, poetry and mushrooms and lightly seasoned bean designedAnd there’s by Le more Procope’s to Bazndei’s Kevin Wang. menu It’sthan a paintings. sprouts. Then comes the meat. A bowl of multi-page affair, featuring Yunnan ingredi- ents such as Pu’er tea, fresh mint and citrus. newest Yunnan restaurant, features some of pepper. Fried pork is served alongside sliced We enjoy a lovely lemongrass cooler, which theseAnd paintings so it’s fitting on its that very Bazndei, walls. Tianjin’s potatoes.diced chicken The staroverflows of it all with is a sliceslarge tilapia,of fiery served on a banana leaf in classic Yunnan food down with a delightfully fresh passion bustle of Joy City’s ‘Imagination Factory’ style. We rip hunks off the slender bones un- fruitis fizzy, juice. light An and extensive refreshing wine and list wash is also our (theBazndei small cobbledis a haven street of tranquility full of restaurants in the til there is meat no more. available for our perusal. just outside the mall). Its whitewashed walls Unfortunately, this means we haven’t - stretch over a wide, two-story space, dotted with understated wooden furniture and the fried rice. Which is a shame, because the rice thatBazndei’s the atmosphere combination lends of itself flavors, to longer paint issaved a real room treat, for its the texture finale more – noodle reminiscent soup and dinners:ings and Moredrinks time works lingering wonders. over We bowls find of serves primarily as a Yunnan restaurant, it is rice noodles; slower sips from our cocktail alsoaforementioned a gallery, with paintings. exhibitions While of contempoBazndei - northern variety. glasses. rary art which change every few months. of Southeast Asian sticky rice than the fluffy And in the bustling heart of Tianjin, that is On our visit, we sample a selection of with northern Chinese touches. Dishes are no small feat. Yunnanese dishes in these sleek surrounds. Overall, Bazndei’s cuisine is Yunnanese Yunnan cuisine is undoubtedly one of our fa- Kunming, which is probably a bet to please Daily, 10am-midnight; Imagination Factory food vorites – its culinary traditions melding the localmore Tianjin savory palettes.and oily thanThe trickyou might worked find on in street, Joy City, Nanmen Wai Dajie, Nankai 南开区南门 us, at least. We are, after all, in – 外大街大悦城IF如果街 savory works best here. tropical flavors of Southeast Asia with the fiery spices of Sichuan. Bazndei’s set menu

6 July/August 2016 JAZZ-YA Tianjin Sings the Blues Jazz and may appear to be unnatural bedfellows. One is synco- pated and spontaneous; the other is ordered and exceedingly polite. Elsewhere, we sample some wonderfully meaty salmon and tuna The former was even outlawed by the latter during World War II, flakes’ to some, or ‘those flakes of dried, fermented fish’ to others). labeled “enemy music” because of its American roots. Yet, anyone who really knows jazz (or Japan) will also know they (RMB26-RMB58 for plates of two, platters from RMB128) and go extraordinarily well together. A visit to one of Tokyo’s thriving jazz servedfried eel alongside sushi rolls tangy (RMB78). garnishes A particular of onion standoutand chopped is a dishginger. billed The as cafes – or jazu kissa – will offer conclusive proof. And now, so will a slices‘raw beef are BBQ’thicker (RMB78), than carpaccio which sees – perhaps slices ofmore nicely akin marbled to a beef steak sashi - trip to Tianjin’s thriving Joy City mall. mi – and the outcome is all the more satisfying for it. On the not-so-Japanese front, we recommend the beef tongue

Something of a veteran in ’s dining scene, Jazz-Ya has been too dry nor too greasy, which is exactly what we think of the fried serving Japanese food in jazzy confines since 1995. Its latest branch – (RMB65), which is thinly sliced and served on a skillet. It’s neither =the one first of inthe Tianjin city’s top– replicates spots for a dependable winning formula: mid-range sleek dining. interior (jazz Tianjin is home to plenty of cute izakayas, but there’s something music x jazz posters)so not jazz. + pan-Japanese You can’t just fare impose (with formulasAmerican on flourishes) its im- refreshingchicken (RMB38 about –enjoying it’s got toJapanese be done, food right?). in a spacious, modern set- provised free-form. Nor can you really pin it down – just like Jazz-Ya’s menu,But mathwhich is sees sushi, sashimi, yakitori and teppanyaki represent- ceiling pipes are offset by the huge amount of natural light streaming ing Japan, while steak, pasta and pizza show up for the West. With ting. Jazz-Ya’s concrete floors, exposed lightbulbs and industrial-chic such choices on display, we make an almost random selection from conservatory, making it an excellent choice for some late-afternoon, across Jazz-Ya’s offerings. The result, we hope, is something of a rep- post-shoppinginto the restaurant. dining. The upper floor has the bright and airy feel of a resentative sample. Things kick off with a mushroom, bacon and spinach salad Japanese jazz – Jazz-Ya is worth a try, even if you don’t think it should - work.Joy City isn’t exactly short of options on this front. But – just like yet(RMB45). robust Tomushrooms be honest, balance salads don’t perfectly usually against make the it intoslight our saltiness food re Daily, 10am-midnight; Imagination Factory food street, Joy City, Nanmen Wai ofviews the bacon(because, and well, a hearty salad), sprinkle but this of onekatsuobushi is worth (knowntaking note as ‘bonito of. Soft Dajie, Nankai 南开区南门外大街大悦城IF如果街

7 July/August 2016 TROLLEY All Aboard the Burger Car

Trolley’s walls are covered with – you guessed it! – trolleys. The eponymous mode of transportation

wonder if we are indeed inside a trolley. We’reis ubiquitous not. We’re to the in Tianjin’spoint where newest we burger joint: Trolley.

night of our most recent visit, the Aocheng hangout playsBut host Trolley to groups has more of laowai than street outside cars. sipping On the beers on the terrace. Inside, friends gather around the high tables by the bar to watch sports. Trolley features high ceilings with plenty of natural light, which we enjoy on a pleasant summer evening. Plopping down at the lower tables up front, we peruse the menu of Tex-Mex offerings: burgers, tacos, burritos and wings. American expats may recognize the sort of dishes from Tex-Mex-inspired watering holes back home. Color us nostalgic.

and some pleasant nachos before diving into our heartier mains – a plate And so we begin. We munch on soft, lightly crisped chicken quesadillas

mozzarellaof three pork sticks, tacos which and the sit restaurant’son top of a thick signature beef patty. Trolley While Burger. we likeWhat – no lovemakes – the the idea Trolley of having Burger mozzarella different from sticks other on our burger burger selections? (more calories, Crispy

amounts of ketchup is the only way to moisten things up. moreThe fun!) taco wemeat wish is similarly our patty dry. was And juicier. Trolley’s We find decision that adding to pair copious blue cheese

it’s tacos you’re after, perhaps the nearby TJ Tex-Mex is a better bet.) withWe shredded are, however, pork happy is, shall to we report say, questionable.that the drink (Itselection might be is killer.said that, We if were thrilled to see Kentucky IPA on draft. And with not one, but two daily happy hours, Trolley is gearing up to become a drinking destination. Flatscreen TVs show sports, and even though our visit is on a weeknight,

a smallAccordingly, crowd gathers we have to a knocksuggestion. back beersWhile and the watchburgers a game.aren’t (Euroanything 2016, toanyone?) write home about just yet (who knows – maybe they’ll improve), the

(there are two, remember). We bet that after a Kentucky beer or three, drinking space is. So gather your buddies and head on over to happy hour

thoseHappy hourburgers 5-7pm will and taste 10-11pm; just 22/23-119,fine. Aocheng Commercial Plaza Tianxi, Nankai 南开区奥城商业广场天玺22-23号楼119 (152 2209 1582) PHOTOS BY HOLLY LI HOLLY BY PHOTOS

8 July/August 2016 CAO MANSION A Bite of History

In a city moving so rapidly towards its future, it’s easy to forget about built within his mansion’s courtyard for her to perform on, and you the past. Cranes dot the skyline; new buildings climb skywards every can still see it today. week. There’s no doubt that Tianjin is a city with a bright future. There are historical artifacts all over this mansion. And the wait

most important artifact here is the menu. OK, the menus themselves TheBut itpalatial is also Caoa city Mansion with a profoundserves up history. classic TianjinAnd the fare best with way a to side staff is on hand to answer any of your questions. But perhaps the ofexperience national politics.said history? It is one Eating of our it. favorite places in town to have our those Cao Kun would have eaten. slice of history cake, and eat it too. aren’tFirst from up, wethe sample 1920s, abut plate the of classic classic Tianjin Tianjin recipes bing (), are inspired in by -

Just steps away from Tianjin’s iconic Drum Tower, our first sign shouldn’tfour different knock flavors. until you(We try.heartily The resident recommend chef thetells sweet us that sesame his sweet va Wethat learn this place that this is not space like formerlythe others belonged is, well, toa sign. Cao Kun,The plaque president that riety.) Also on our table are sour, crispy jellyfish tentacles, which you greets our entry details the cultural significance of the building. intact, remain for the eating. White House. fishUltimately, dish is extra this healthy Tianjin because fare is a thewelcome scales, blend which of are sweet fried and and salty still of China for a tumultuous year from 1923 to 1924. Call it Tianjin’s with traditional Chinese furniture. Thanks to the large wooden tables Cao Kun was a native of the city, born into a poor family in 1862. He- andflavors. red Wecushion, wash weit all feel down like withwe Cao tea Kun in a himselfgorgeous – important,VIP room filled rich, worked his way up to office via the army, fighting in the Sino-Japanese well looked-after. positionWar in 1894, by offering later becoming money to a government general in the assembly Beiyang members. Army. Cao is fa mousCao today is also for known his nickname, for having the married ‘Bribing a President,’ beautiful operaas he bought singer. the Visitors to Cao Mansion can see photos of her in stunning Peking Daily,But 11.30am-2pm the best part? and When 5-10pm; we 36 leave, Gulou we’reBeijie, backNankai in 南开区鼓楼北街 21st century36 Tianjin.号 (022 garb throughout the restaurant. In fact, Cao had a special stage 2728 0123)

9 July/August 2016 BEER TO STAY A Guide to the Best of WE Brewery

Photos by Holly Li

5 Blvd：Named after the concession boulevards of Wu Da Dao, this beer is

as rich and complex as the streets which inspired it. Made from five different- types of malt (and five different types of hops), there’s plenty happening on the palette. Distinct smoky notes are offset by a chocolate finish which dis guises the fact that, at 6.5% ABV, this is strong(ish).

V-Rye Nice：We’re suckers for beers with puns for names, and the V-rye

for this one. It’s nicer than ‘nice’ – in fact we’d say it’s delightful (though the nameNice delivers ‘V-Rye Delightful’ on that front. doesn’t But ‘nice’roll off would the tongue). be a bit Anyway,of a beige this description is a must- try. Light and oddly refreshing for a rye beer.

Piglet’s Kiss：Ever wondered what it would be like to be kissed by a small

Thispig? Well,isn’t exactlyif WE Brewery’s what we’d head call ahoncho ‘session Steve beer,’ Yang but israther to be a believed, slice of porcine it would delightprovide to a pleasantbe enjoyed smoked-malt between lighter flavor brews. that “tastes like a piece of bacon.”

Broken Compass IPA：This is WE’s best-seller. It’s also our favorite, meaning either a) we’re clichéd IPA-drinking hipsters, or b) it’s just very, very good. We say the latter. With a touch of hoppiness balanced against something refreshingly fruity, you can also drink a few of these without losing your bearings. (Yes, that’s a ‘broken compass’ reference.)

Late Breakfast Stout：This one’s so fresh that it’s not on the board when we

aroma from lactose powder, this could make a great late breakfast – hence the visit (we try some from the tank). With a noticeable coffee flavor and a milky indeed. Added oatmeal helps it retain body. name. But even if you’re not into pre-lunch booze, this stout is rather drinkable

Dark Wheat：This is one of WE’s summer specials. And although a dark wheat beer isn’t everyone’s idea of a classic sunshine tipple, we can see the appeal. More than just your average wheat beer, this one features some

isdark more.” malt for extra aroma (and some dry-hopping for more complex flavor). Sure, it’s not the most original name, but as WE’s Steve Yang muses: “Less WE Brewery, 4 Yiheli, Xian Dao, Heping 和平区西安道怡和里4号

10 July/August 2016 Four Aces Guitar Quartet / Gig Hangover Gig

HEAR

Be prepared for plenty of sweat- ing as an energetic roster of punk Beyond Tribute Night rock bands storm Tianjin for the Since forming in 2008, Belgian classical guitar crew Four Aces Guitar Quartet Gig night. Local heroes and regulars at have played prestigious venues across Europe. And, having performed in 13 Club, Hangover, are joined by Legendary rock band Beyond are Beijing in 2013, the guitar maestros return to China on a tour which sees Beijing veterans Counterforce on a arguably ’s most success- them stop off at the Tianjin Grand Theater. bill which also includes the promis- ful band of all time. And while the Live, they’re best known for playing compositions by the likes of Puccini ing bands Biu, Reaction and Jungle group’s members continued to per- and Tchaikovsky, as well as putting their own unique take on contemporary Fever. form together for a few years after pop and folk classics. For a taste of what to expect, check out the Aces’ latest Sat Jul 9, 8pm; RMB40 (advance), the death of frontman Wong Ka Kui, album Odyssee, an intricate and powerful collection of instrumental guitar RMB60 (door); 13 Club, 58 Ziyou Dao, we all know it was never the same music. Hebei District 河北区自由道58号 again. But now, over two decades Wed Jul 6, 7.30-9.30pm; RMB80-280; Tianjin Grand Theater, Yuexiu Lu, Hexi 河西 later, you can once again enjoy clas- Joe Hisaishi Concert 区越秀路天津大剧院 sics like ‘Big Land,’ ‘Glorious Years’ and ‘Amani’ courtesy of Mai Duo Zhang Chu / Gig Yuedui, who take over 13 Club for a night of tribute. Thu Jun 30, 8.30pm; RMB40 (advance), RMB50 (door); 13 Club, 58 Ziyou Dao, Hebei District 河北区自由道58号 Josu De Solaun Classical

Japanese film score composer Joe Hisaishi has been working with di- rector and Studio Ghibli co-founder Hayao Miyazaki since 1984. As a result, his soaring creations have been used in soundtracks to some of the biggest anime films of all time, including Princess Mononoke Award-winning Spanish classical pia- and Howl's Moving Castle. For one nist has performed as a soloist with Known to many as “the most lonesome singer-poet,” Shaanxi-born rock trou- night only (well, in Tianjin at least), orchestras such as the Mariinsky badour Zhang Chu has been a huge figure in Chinese music since the early Hisaishi will perform some of his Theatre Orchestra, Moscow 1990s. Now almost 50, Zhang’s graceful lyrics continue to be quoted by music greatest hits live. Even if you’re not Chamber Orchestra and more phil- fans of all ages. Not all of his songs translate as poetically into English, but an anime fan, this promises to be a harmonic orchestras than you can those language buffs among you will appreciate the hidden meanings in clas- moving performance from the piano shake a conductor’s baton at. sic tracks such as ‘Westward out of Yang Guan,’ ‘Love’ and Zhang’s breakout virtuoso. Sat Jul 16 and Sun Jul 17, 7.30pm; single, ‘Sister’ (“Sister! I wanna go home / Take a hold of my hand / I'm a bit Sat Aug 27, 7.30-10pm; Jinwan Grand RMB80-280; Tianjin Grand Theater, sleepy”). As we said, it sounds better in Chinese. Theater, Building 4, Jinwan Plaza, Yuexiu Lu, Hexi 河西区越秀路天津大 Fri Jul 8, 7.30pm; RMB280-680; Jinwan Grand Theater, Building 4, Jinwan Plaza, Jiefang Beilu, Heping 和平区解放北路 剧院 Jiefang Beilu, Heping 和平区解放北路津湾广场4号楼津湾大剧院 (damai.cn) 津湾广场4号楼津湾大剧院 (damai.cn)

11 July/August 2016 BBQ Night at The Ritz-Carlton, Tianjin / Dining The St. Regis Indian Food Festival Dining

TASTE

The St. Regis Tianjin just got even more international with the ad- dition of Mumbai’s own Chef Surjeet. To celebrate, St. Regis is offering a variety of Indian dishes in the month of July, such as dal ka

Chocolate Fondue at shorba and gula jamun. As with any 1863 The Dining Room kitchen team that’s been cooking Dining in China for a while, you can expect a Chinese spin on the traditional There’s no date food more roman- Indian offerings. All of this is along- tic than chocolate fondue. Don’t side the variety of food the St. Regis believe us? Try it out yourself. This usually serves, so if Indian isn’t your summer, 1863 The Dining Room of thing, there's plenty of other op- The Astor Hotel, a Luxury Collection tions to keep you satisfied. Hotel, Tianjin is offering a special Daily, 5.30-9pm through Jul 31; on chocolate fondue – shareable be- RMB358/person plus 6-percent VAT tween two people – and fresh fruit charge; Promenade, The St. Regis to dip into it. Date night, sorted. Tianjin (see Listings for details) Tue-Sun through September, 6-10pm; RMB 298/two people, plus 10-per-

cent service charge; 1863 The Dining Wine Tasting at Le Room, Astor Wing 1/F, The Astor Loft Drinking Hotel (see Listings for details)

The Terrace Bar Drinking

Living in Tianjin can be rough for the wine-inclined, but fear not, Le Loft has heard le call of duty. At 8.30pm the joint is holding what it refers to as a ‘social networking event’ featuring imported wines Now open for the summer: The from all over France, and an all-you- Terrace Bar, on the second floor of can-eat buffet for RMB100 a pop. the Shangri-La. Nothing says sum- This wouldn’t be a proper tasting mer like drinking outdoors, and the ZEST has a new chef, Henry Li, who is already making waves by introducing a without proper food pairings for Terrace Bar is the ultimate place new Saturday theme: BBQ Night. RMB358 per person gets you access to bot- the wine, which, while tight lipped to do so. But if drinking’s not your tomless coffee, soft drinks and tea, alongside BBQ dishes like Munich-style on the specifics, Le Loft has covered. thing, no worries – there are also sausages and Thai pork neck. ZEST has simultaneously spiked its garden with Remember, this will be going on snacks such as beef sliders, chicken beer, so you’ll have access to craft, bottled and ‘modern’ brews. All of this the first Tuesday of the month, so satay and wontons on hand. Visit combined with live music and beautiful summer evenings (weather permit- you can hang onto those European Friday and Saturday nights to catch ting), should make The Ritz-Carlton, Tianjin a dope launching pad for your roots as incessantly as you need to. the live entertainment. Saturday night. Just remember to savor the summer nights while they last Tue Jul 5, 8.30pm; RMB100 (see Tue-Sat, 5-11pm; The Shangri-La, until the end of August. Listings for details) (to reserve, call Tianjin (see Listings for details; to re- Saturdays through August, 5.30-9.30pm; RMB358/person; ZEST, The Ritz-Carlton, 139 2099 0990 or message Peter on serve, call 8418 8111) Tianjin (see Listings for details) WeChat at ptshilei)

12 July/August 2016 Euro 2016 at Venezia Club / Football Colin Hanna & Barney Rivera Comedy

DO

Two of Shanghai’s finest comics are set to grace the (makeshift) stage at WE Brewery. Hailing from the back- woods of Canada, Colin Hanna kills Pub Quiz Community it with his off-the-cuff, and often They say knowledge is the seat of off-the-rails, comedic style. Joining With the Euros in full swing it’s admittedly been hard – but worth it – to stay power, or something like that, so Hanna is Mexican-born, LA-raised in touch with those 3am start times. If you plan to continue making the com- prove it in the colosseum of intellec- Barney Rivera, who has been every- mitment to watch European football in this desolate time zone of ours, why tual purity that is Indie Bar. The joint where with his comedy: all over Asia not find somewhere nice to settle in? Venezia Club is a good bet. The Italian has a rotating cast of hosts and fresh and Europe, and is a regular at the restaurant and bar hangout will be open all night for the Euro 2016 semifinals quizzes every week. Quiz nights Laugh Factory and the Hollywood and final, so when the English lose on penalties at 5.30am, at least you can are always fun and Indie’s one is Improv. say you were at a nice place and had a decent feed. Note: Olympic footie will especially bangin’ alongside the Fri Jul 15, 8pm; RMB80 (advance), be covered at Venezia in August as well. You can definitely count on Venezia bar’s terrific cocktails and intimate RMB100 (door), all tickets come with to keep the summer of soccer going strong – bring it on. atmosphere. As with any bar trivia one free beer; WE Brewery, 4 Yiheli, Thu-Fri Jul 7-8 (semi-finals), Mon Jul 11 (final); free; Venezia Club, 48 Ziyou Dao, night, come for the bragging rights Xian Dao, Heping 和平区西安道怡和里 Former Italian Concession Area, Hebei District 河北区意大利风情街自由道48号 but stick around to get to know your 4号 (reserve tickets via nigel@comedy- competitors afterwards. clubchina.com) Made in ILVA / Theater Every Wed, 9pm; free; Indie Bar,

Yichang Nanli, Heping 和平区宜昌道 Salsa Party Dance 宜昌南里底商

Richard the III Theater

Shangri-La Hotel doesn’t want you to escape the summer heat; it wants Shakespeare’s Richard the III cent- you to turn it up. The hotel is throw- ers on the villain Richard, whose ing a string of ‘HOT, HOT’ salsa internal anguish borne from his parties every weekend until the end disfigured form propels him into a of July on its second-floor, riverside burgeoning sense of entitlement, terrace. The only respite from the and then into a power-hungry, po- Made in ILVA is a play about a steelworks factory in Taranto, Italy, and the ef- searing hot salsa is the buy-one- litical bloodbath that leads him to fect it has had on the area surrounding it, as well as the effect manufacturing get-one-free deals on select drinks, seize the English crown. You know, has on Europe as a whole. If that sounds boring, Made in ILVA is an aesthetic or the river if you get too drunk. Shakespeare stuff. If you’re tired of mosh pit of metallurgic music, visuals and visceral writing that tackles what If your salsa moves turn out to be Game of Thrones’ overly simplistic it means to be blue collar in our ever-advancing world. The play was drafted not-so-hot but more lukewarm, fear and underwhelming villains, this with the help of actual ILVA plant employees, who contributed poetry and not, as Shangri-La’s central location should be a satisfying alternative. prose to the project. ILVA has been adapted from the award-winning Italian is a great stepping stone for your Jun 30-Jul 2; RMB120-680; Tianjin publication of the same name by one of Italy’s lead touring groups. Presented Saturday night plans. Grand Theater, 58-1 Pingjiang Rd, in English. Every Sat, through Jul; free; Shangri- Hexi 天津大剧院 河西区平江道58号增 Sat Jul 9, 7.30pm; Sun Jul 10, 3pm; RMB30-120; Tianjin Grand Theater, 58-1 La Hotel terrace, 328 Haihe Dong Lu, 1 (tickets available via ticket.tjgthe- Pingjiang Dao, Hexi 天津大剧院 河西区平江道58号增1 (tickets available via ticket. Hedong 海河东路与保定道交口 (8418 atre.org) tjgtheatre.org) 8888)

13 July/August 2016 TIANJIN LISTINGS CITY LISTINGS OPEN DOOR GROCERIES ISETAN Supermarket Mandarin skills helpful ...... M The earliest non-Chinese supermarket to arrive in town provides imported groceries HOUSEKEEPER SERVICES to TJ expats and foreign-food lovers; small and, of course, pricey. LBB Housekeeping Service > Daily 10am-9pm. 108 Nanjing Road, B1, Isetan Can’t cook, won’t cook? Relax: LBB has Shopping Mall Heping District. 和平区南京路108号 plenty of experience providing housekeep- 伊势丹商场地下一层 (022-27221111) ing and ayi services for both lazy and hard-working foreigners. Joy City BLT (Better Life > Room1102, Gate 3, 1 Builing, Jinguan Li, Fengfan Together) Supermarket International, Wang Ding Di, Nankai District, 南开区 The biggest high-end supermarket in town, 王顶堤金冠里锋泛国际1号楼3门1102 (022 2368 offering the widest range of imported 0639; www.lbblife.com/htm/Project.asp) products locally – so you can finally enjoy that “better life together” through the gift of, er, foreign groceries. BUSINESS SERVICES > Daily 10am-10pm; 6 Nanmenwai Da Jie, B1, Joy City Shopping Centre, Nankai District. 南开区南门外大街 American Chamber of 6号大悦城地下一层 (022 5810 0108) Commerce AmCham brings together US businesses and assists them in government advocacy, HEALTH networking and professional events. > Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Room 2918, The Exchange Tower International SOS 2, 189 Nanjing Rd, Heping district 和平区南京路189 The hospital has earnt its reputation with 号津汇广场2座2918室 (022 2318 5071/2318 5074; years of a great service. www.amchamchina.org) > inside Tianjin Sheraton Hotel, Zijinshan Lu, Hexi 河西 区紫金山路 喜来登大酒店 022-23520143 European Union Chamber of Commerce Tianjin First Central Hospital Assists EU members with The largest hospital in town, with government liaison, networking and advanced equipment and professional professional events. service. > Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Room 2415, Suite 17, Magnetic > 24 Fukang Road, Nankai District, 南开区复康路24 Plaza, Binshui Xi Lu, Nankai district 南开区宾水西道 号 (022 2362 6600, 022 2362 6048; www.tj-fch.com) 奥城商业广场17座2415 室 (022 2374 1122; www. europeanchamber.com.cn) Tianjin United Family Hospitals & Clinics ¥¥ One of few hospitals in town with English- COURIERS speaking staff. > No.22, Tianxiao Yuan, Tanjiang Dao, Hexi district 河 DHL M 西区潭江道天潇园22号 (022 5856 8500; Emergency DHL has its own offices, as well as appear- only 022 5856 8555; www.tianjin.u .com.cn/en/) ing in branches of China Post, and can be used for domestic and international, corporate and personal shipping. EMERGENCY SERVICES > Daily, 10.30am-9.30pm Should you encounter trouble, look for (www.cn.dhl.com/en/express; 400 810 8000). Tianjin police (jingcha)’s green uniform Alternatively, Fedex ( www.fedex.com; 800 988 1888) and caps. M > Police: Dial 110. Tianjin police Weibo @平安天津. Fire: Dial 119. General emergencies: 120. DENTAL

Aichi Dental ¥ HOME DECORATION The only Sino-foreign dental joint in TJ. Reassuring service. IKEA > Daily 9am-6pm. 4th Floor, Yunxiang Building, It’s boring, Swedish (yawn) and horribly No.72-74 Xikang Road, Heping district, 和平区西 crowded. But it’s also afforable and way 康路72-74号云翔大厦4楼 (022 8568 5616; www. nicer than the decorations your landlord aichidental.com) favored. Go for the meatballs and sleeping Chinese, at least... Zhen Hong Dental Clinic M > Daily, 10am-9pm. 433 Jintang Road, Dongli 塘沽区 A private clinic with a prominent reputa- 津塘公路18号 tion, spotless operation rooms and award- (400-8002345; www.ikea.com.cn.zh) winning dentists. Reservations required. > 1st Floor, Henghua Building, 501, Da Gu Nan Road, ELECTRONICS

Hexi district 河西区大沽南路501号恒华大厦一楼 LI HOLLY BY PHOTOS (022 5819 6263) Buynow Mall 百脑汇 The best thing about this gargantuan Xin Aichi Dental Clinic M OSCAR HOUSE electronics mall is that it probably has This 10-year-old clinic shouldn’t be everything (cameras, computers, phone, confused with Aichi Dental, though it is games, hard drives etc.) – the bad news equally as good. Lounging Around is that its size means it might take you > 84 Taida Yuan, Yong An Road, Hexi district 河西 an hour to find. Be wary of fakes and get 区永安道泰达园底商84号 (022 2328 5556, 022 If you’re going to spend time drinking in the former British Concession, it ready to haggle (in Mandarin). 2328 0060) seems only fitting to do so in a lounge. Complete with wood panels and > 366 Anshanxi Dao, Nankai 南开区鞍山西道366号 (022 5869 7666) comfy sofas, Oscar House fits the bill perfectly (which is exactly why we DRIVERS awarded it as our ‘Outstanding Pick’ lounge bar in the recent That’s Tianjin Food & Drink Awards). On our most recent visit, we try a deftly made INSURANCE Tianjin Car Service M Moscow Mule and a Mohito, both of which prove that this place knows how Airport transfer and car-rental services Life Insurance Company Ltd M with/without drivers, as well as English- to make classic cocktails. But don’t forget the beer fridge out front, which International and professional life-insur- speaking guides. hosts a fabulous collection of bottled craft ales. ance company, whose mission statement is > (755 2595 1800; www tianjincarservice.com, e-mail: to pursue the philosophy “people-orient- [email protected]) > Daily, 4pm-late; 6 Hunan Lu, Heping 和平区湖南路6号 (022 2339 2757) ed, respect for life.”

14 July/August 2016 > Room 501, C Masson homes, Tanggu district塘沽区 Recommended ...... * local folk to metal played through solid Unmissable ...... ** colonial building, which will give you a stacks, tweaked by stand-up sound men. 马森家园C座501室 forthright history. (022 2530 7849; [email protected]) This is sure to rival 13 Club as Tianjin’s > Jiefang Bei Lu, Heping district 和平区解放北路 premier rock venue. CLASSICAL > Daily 2pm-2am, Hubin Tiandi Shangjie, Bldg VISA SERVICES Pu Yi Former Residence M 1-1, Dongli (at the intersection of Donglihu One of the delights of Tianjin’s center Hanliaochengqingjing Dadao and Xi Dadao) 东丽区东 Tianjin Grand Theatre * is that you never know what freak of 丽湖万科城情景大道与西大道交口的湖滨天地 Tianjin Foreign Service Corp M It's a pleasant surprise to learn that the architectural nature might be hiding down 商街壹栋01号 (138 2099 9403) Let these guys untangle the Tianjin Grand Opera takes the art almost as any alley. Nowhere is this truer than with Byzantine new visa laws for you. seriously as Guangzhou, with 13 top pro- Jing Yuan Garden – better known as the Back Alley Bar 后巷酒吧 M > Guangyin Building, Youyi Bei Road, Hexi district,河西 ductions in 2013, including , Eugene last emperor Pu Yi’s house – from 1929 Run by an alumnus of the Tianjin Music 区友谊北路广银大厦(022 2801 6007) Onegin, and The Ring (last December to-1931 – a spacious Spanish-style villa, Conservatory, this hidden gem, filled with La Traviata was shown, first performed in which looks like it’s escaped a life on the Tianjin Cultural Palace of Workers in 1978). Med and is now hiding down a particularly twisty staircases, flying beams, red lanterns SPORT & YOGA Yet it does, as well as hosting world-class unexceptional second-tier street. Inside and cozy corners, wins on atmosphere – orchestras like the Philadelphia, Royal Phil- contains a collection of Puyi’s possessions even if there’s no band playing. When the harmonic and New York City Ballet. Keep and, as the little plaque tells us, “the build- small stage is occupied, expect a spectrum Magic Yoga an eye on posters at the Tianjin railway ing is of great harmony as a whole.” from jazz to rock, on an intimate stage A chain yoga studio; men’s and parent- station to see what's being feted next. built for music lovers. child sessions available. > Daily, 70 Anshan Road, Heping District 和平区鞍山 > RMB30-280 approx, daily 8:30am-9:00pm, Tianjin 道70号 (022 2731 1618) > Daily 8pm-2am, at the intersection of Xinkai Lu and > 3-1101, Heping Yuan, Fu An Da Jie (close to Parkson), Culture Centre, Yuexiu Lu, Hexi 河西区越秀路天津 Huajie Dao, in the little alley next to the Industrial and Heping District, 和平区福安大街和平园3门1101(近 文化中心天津 (Box office: 022 8388 2000/022 8388 Shi Family Residence 石家大院 * Commercial Bank of China (ICBC), Hedong 河东区新 百盛购物中心) (022 2731 1665, 022 6089 6203; 2008; www.english.tjgtheatre.org) If you’ve found Ancient Culture Street or 开路与华捷道交口 工商银行侧门小巷内 (186 www.gufanhome.com) Italy Style Town a bit too ‘Disneyland’ for 0227 9082) Western Shore Art Salon 西岸艺术馆 M * your liking (we don’t blame you) head to Ai Ze En Fitness Club Built to resemble a church of hodge- the Shi Family Mansion, in Yangliuqing Lhasa 5238 拉萨5238酒吧 M * Yoga, spinning, kick boxing etc for all fit- podge European origins, this all-round art Town, 15km west of the city. On offer here This newly opened lodge looks like it be- ness enthusiasts. temple is ideal for impressing a first date. is a charming and well-presented house longs at the base of Mount Everest – a vibe > Daily 9am-10pm. 4th Floor, Jinyao Square, 9 Nan Men Proximity to Tianjin University means no and gardens of a wealthy Qing family. provided by a husband-wife team of white- Wai Da Jie, Nankai district, 南开区南门外大街9号金 shortage of young culture vultures taking It’s reachable by the No. 153 bus from collar Beijingers-turned-rock climbers, who 耀广场4楼 (022 2734 4888) in weekly free lectures (Tue 3pm) while the Tianjin West Station, but you might find also opened a hostel of the same name in decent acoustics make this place a haven a taxi (about RMB70 each way) is more Tibet. Although a little overboard on the Heping Tennis Courts for classical chamber music (performances convenient. Tibetan trinkets, the two-floor clubhouse Indoor courts let you practice like a maniac every Sat and Sun starting at 8pm sharp). If > Daily 9am-4:30pm, RMB20, 100m west of Yuhe features a decent stage for hippie folk- all year round; prices vary from hour to you need to stay awake during the string Bridge, Yangliuqing Town, Xiqing 西青区杨柳青镇估 rock; both shoes and talent optional. The hour. quartet, visit the cafe next door for a divine 衣街47号 (022 2739 1617) breezy atmosphere and reasonable drinks > RMB70/hour, 8.30am-6pm; RMB110, 6-8pm and (yet pricey) cappuccino. attract a student clientele, who managers weekends. RMB90, 8-10pm. Daily 8:30am-10pm. > Sun, Tue-Thu (closed Mondays) 9:30am-5pm, Fri/Sat Temple of Deep Compassion * encourage to crash in the booths when it’s too late (and they're too drunk) to head No.207 Xinhua Road, Heping district, 和平区新华路 9:30am-9:30pm, 3 Youyi Lu, Hexi 河西区友谊北路3 Head north-east out of the center over the 号 (022 23263505, 022 2326 3515) Jingang bridge (looking out for the ‘Wanke back to campus. Two cheers for them! 207号(022 2313 9129) Hotel’ along the way!) and you’ll come > Daily 3pm-12am, 6-10 Tongfang Huayuan Bldg, Heping 6-10 (186 2226 4496) Tianjin Tennis Center ¥ across one of Tianjin’s most important 和平区同方花园 号 Quality courts where the pros train – the HISTORICAL SITES sacred sites, the Dabei Temple – or, to give price is a bit higher. it its most evocative name, the Temple Listener Café 倾听者咖啡 M Tucked away in a dumpy residential > RMB100/ hour. Daily 8am-10pm. 9-2 Fukang Road, Great Mosque 大清真寺 of Deep Compassion. Dating back to the Ming Dynasty, it’s a predominantly Bud- compound, this cluttered clubhouse Nankai district, 南开区复康路9号增2号 (022 2335 An important Islamic shrine since the Qing dhist temple, still fully practicing and, al- hosts weekly folk shows on a stage built 9964) era, this famous mosque consists of four for your grandma’s living room. Grab a main structures – the Screen Wall, Arch- though many building have been restored over the years, its main hall is perhaps the cheap coffee (RMB12) and not-so-fresh Yogi Lotus Yoga way, Preaching Hall and Prayer Hall – the most striking imperial-era structure in the cheesecake (RMB12), plop on a couch with By a hill in Nan Cui Ping Park, Yogi has latter being the most active and venerated city. The size of the site, some 10,000sqm, your favorite Wi-Fi widget and mellow soothing surroundings. spot (with over 1,000 worshippers a means it doesn’t suffer from encroach- out among earth tones, all to earthy tunes > 265, Hongqi Nan Road, Nankai district 南开区红旗 week), decorated with Arabic and Chinese from amateur acousticians. If you need couplets. There’s also a pair of miniature ing construction on all sides, in the same 南路265号 (022 2813 2007) way as some inner-city shrines (Confucius something stronger, stop by for the weekly Korans the size of a matchbox and carv- all-you-can-drink samplers (a worrying Temple, we’re looking at you.) ings, featuring Tianjin ‘scenic spots,’ by RMB60) from the well-stocked bar. Most Heping Squash Courts M > Daily, RMB10, 9am-4.30pm, Tianwei Road, Hebei 河 Probably 99 percent of locals have no idea well-known Hui artist Ma Shaoqing. It’s just wimp out and sip on an “Ice Male 北区天纬路 (022 2626 1769) that squash exists, so these three courts not really open to tourists (as it’s a place Intimate” mocktail. are seldom occupied. Buy a 10-pass card of prayer) but one can stroll the courtyard > Daily 11am-2am, Nanfufang Dajie (off Diantai Dao), for 300 kuai – well worth it! and get a close look, then try one of the Heping 和平区电台道南浮房大街 (400 6090 706) > RMB40/hour 8.30am-6pm; RMB60, 6-10pm and many halal restaurants nearby. LIVEHOUSES > Free, daily 6am-7pm, Dafeng Lu, opposite Xiaohuo weekends. Daily 8:30am-10pm, 2nd Floor, Heping Nine Songs 九歌 M Xiang Temple, Hongqiao 红桥区大丰路小伙巷对面 For musicians, by musicians – this Tennis Courts, No.207 Xinhua Road, Heping district, 和 13 Club M ** (022 8772 0540) dingy boom room, named for the grungy 平区新华路207号和平网球馆二楼(022 2313 9129) The granddaddy of Tianjin music venues sex-n-rock movie, is the haven of the Huangyaguan Great Wall * and main port of call for serious tal- college-rock scene. Expect student bands Powerhouse Gym One of the Great Wall’s ultimate setbacks ent, domestic and foreign, playing all (disclaimer: varying quality), playing The most popular gym in town. Good is that its popularity means it’s often swim- genres. But unless a touring band pops everything from anti-folk to hardcore, location (Line 1, Xiao Bai Lou station) and ming with tourists – somewhat detracting in mid-week, best check-in on weekends plus visits from leading figures in the local imported equipment. from the magic. The Huangya (‘Yellow for an affordable peek at local talent (and underground scene, with a well-equipped > (No pool) 5th Floor, Binjiang Shopping Center, 29 Cliff’) Pass section, in the Tianjin municipal- aging rockers’ bald spots). Though the sur- stage run by guys who take construction Kaifeng Dao, Heping district, 和平区开封道29号滨 ity some 137km north-east of the city, is a rounding Italian Style Street winds down music seriously. 江购物中心5楼(022 2319 2008) good opportunity to see the wall, minus before midnight, one can stay for a cheap > Daily 11am-11pm, Shangye Lou Bldg B, 3/F, Tianjin the crowds. Some sections suffer from rooftop beer and killer river-view. Normal University South Gate, Xiqing 西青区 师 > (With pool) Monday-Saturday 7am-10pm; Sunday > Daily 8:30pm-1am, 60 Ziyou Dao 3/F, Hebei 10am-10pm. Section C, Olympic Center,90 Weijin Nan over-restoration, looking more Legoland 范大学南门商业楼B座3楼 (158 2271 6562, 186 (intersection of Ziyou Dao and Shengli Lu in Italian 2263 5924) Road, Nankai district,南开区卫津南路90号奥林匹 than , but keep walking and you’ll discover beautiful views, snaking Style Town) 13俱乐部, 河北区自由道与胜利 C (022 2338 2008) 克中心 区 up through the green mountains. Certain 路交口自由道60号三楼 (130 1225 7305; email: sections can be a tough climb, but there’s [email protected]) MUSEUMS plenty of opportunity to buy drinks and TOURIST SERVICES NO.23 Music Bar fuel along the way. Getting there is an Astor Museum ** effort, though: either take a train to Jixian Somewhat reminiscent of Hong Kong's Lang Kwai Fong, the newly-opened No.23 It’s hardly something you’d expect – a Tianjin Tourism Bureau M from Tianjin East Station, then taxi to hotel museum that has probably one of Get your local info fix here. ‘Huangya,’ or take a bus from Tianjin Hebei Music Bar is awash with neon lights of almost every color imaginable. Although the best private collections in north China > Daily, 8.30am-5.30pm. 18 Youyi Lu, Hexi district 河西 Coach Station to Jixian coach station, then – but with a host of historical documents, 区友谊路18号 (022-28359093) a taxi. Drivers might not offer the meter, so passable as a bar, the subterranean space also doubles as a live music venue with postcards, newspapers and photographs, a bargain hard: aim for around RMB50-75. film exhibition (over 100 movies have used > Nov 1-Feb 28, RMB35; Mar 1-Oct 31 RMB40. Daily cover bands and the odd international act. Should the screens behind the stage be the hotel as a location), old possessions TRANSLATION SERVICES 8am-5pm, Huangyaguan, Xiaying Town, Ji County 蓟县 and artifacts, this is a full trip through the 下营镇黄崖关村 (022 2271 8106) used to display decent visuals rather than muted fashion TV, then the venue could highs and lows that Tianjin and the Astor Tianjin Oceanlink Translation Co., Ltd have witnessed, from 1937, when it was Jiefang Beilu 解放北路 contend with some of the city's better > Rm 1216, Digital Time Square, Anshan Xi Lu, Nankai livehouses. Even if the music doesn't suit renamed the Asian Hotel by the occupying At the far end of the old British concession Japanese, to present-day visits from celeb- district,南开区鞍山西道时代数码广场1216室 (022 your tastes, the drinks are affordable (and is Jeifang Beilu, which runs to the majestic rities and politicians. The entrance is by a reassuringly strong) and the service is 2825 5806; www.yytrans.com) Astor Hotel and housed many European (no longer functioning) Otis elevator – the attentive. banks at the turn of the century. Don’t first in the city in 1924. > 8pm-late, 23 Chongqing Lu, Heping 和平区重庆路 be fooled by the many ‘old-style’ modern > 33 Taierzhuang Lu, Heping 和平区台儿庄路33号 23号 (022 8433 6666) constructs in the surrounding area; those 天津利顺德大饭店 (022 2331 1688; www.starwood on Jiefang Beilu are genuine, although hotels.com) doubtless have undergone much repair, Blue Map 小镇露台 M * ART LISTINGS and many now house domestic banks Blue Map’s owner Wang Hui earned his China (Porcelain) House M ** pedigree running the legendary (now Mandarin skills helpful ...... M (so you can take a look inside). Look out for the black plaques on practically every defunct) Riff Bar, so expect everything from Up there as one of the most weirdest and

July/August 2016 15 fascinating buildings you will ever visit, Binjiang Dao Walking Street China House (or Yuebao — Porcelain – OPEN DOOR Downtown Tianjin’s busiest commercial House) is a 3,000sqm-oddity decorated avenue, with vendors, shops, malls, with (it’s said) 400 million ancient por- restaurants and cinemas, is swarming with celain fragments, at least 16,000 pottery dangerously nippy e-carts full of ‘sightse- shards and 290 tons of natural crystal – a ers’ (RMB3 a head). mosaic of madness or a habitable work > Binjiang Dao, Heping 和平区滨江道 of stunning art, depending on who you ask. There are four enormous dragons, Friendship Plaza ¥ some 200 meters in length that surround The place to go if you want to max-out the building like tentacles and even a your credit card on Louis Vuitton or Tiffany Land Rover clad in 10,000 ceramic shards, accoutrements. Cartier, Rolex, Chanel and that’s supposedly worth a million kuai. The more, all at twice the prices of Galeries house itself is valued at over RMB2 billion, Lafayette Paris. and filled with antique furniture (most of > Daily 10am-10pm, 21, Youyi Road, Hexi 河西区友谊 which is in a sorry state) but you can enjoy 路21号 (www.tffstore.com; 022 6086 0000) this unforgettable phenomenon for under RMB50. Galaxy Mall M > Daily 9am-6pm, RMB35. 72 Chi Feng Road, Heping This relative newcomer, along with Lotte 和平区赤峰路72号 (022 2712 3366) next to it, has become a local destination, as it combines high-street brands with Dagu Forts * high-end, various restaurants, an All-Star Sixty kilometers south of Tianjin stand skating rink, cinema and IMAX theatre on what’s left of the Dagu Forts, built in 1816 the fifth floor. to protect Beijing – which, in 1860, they > Daily 10am-10pm, 9 Leyuan Dao, Hexi 河西区乐园 spectacularly failed to do (see ‘Jin vs Jing,’ 道9号 (www.galaxy-mall.com.cn; 022 8388 9668) p.17). Most of the emplacements were subsequently chai’ed by the capitalist Heping Lu Golden Street M imperialists, leaving only the 65-ft Wei Adjoining Bingjiang Dao, Golden Street and Hai Forts, some fake cannons and – a has Wanda, Parkson and Wal-Mart but the little later, of course – the Dagu Fort Ruins main lure seems to be the large bronze Museum (est. 1997) and Monument. You coin (Tong Qian) which people stand on, can also take a look at the Haimen Bridge, hoping for good luck. Dagu Beacon, and Chaoyin Temple nearby. > Golden Street, Heping 和平区金街 As a symbol of propaganda against the West, the Dagu Forts are one of the “three Hisense Plaza ¥¥ treasures” of Tianjin. Bottega Veneta, Fendi, Cartier, Prada – you > RMB30, Daily 8am-5pm, (Take No.612/613 bus to know the drill. Look out for those sad peo- Tanggu, transfer to No.110) 乘坐612/613路汽车到塘 ple toting empty paper bags with luxury 沽,换乘110路汽车 brand names. > Daily 10am-10pm, 188, Jie Fang Bei Road, Heping 和 The Tianjin Museum M * 平区解放北路188号 (www.hisense-plaza.com; 022 The Tianjin Museum, like many new 2319 8888) things in China, is out to impress from the get-go. It’s in a colossal building shaped ISETAN like a swan (the second-largest in China, An oldie but a goodie, the B1 and B2 floor with over 150,000 exhibits), in a vast plaza have some unique eateries including an surrounded by equally imposing buildings. udon noodle house (see Restaurant list- It’s the typical procedure here: ancient ings) and American pies (not the movie, or artifacts, followed by jade, porcelain and pizza; actual pies.) calligraphy, moving onto Tianjin’s recent > Daily 10am-9pm, 108, Nanjing Road, Heping 和平区 history, a display room – sadly closed on 南京路108号 (www.isetan-tianjin.cn; 022 2722 1111) our visit – which we imagine offers the most interesting stuff, given turn-of-the- Q&A: EXECUTIVE CHEF FONG OF Joy City 大悦城 20th-century Tianjin’s apparent displeasure The most popular mall in town, Joy City is at hosting nine concession areas. close to the and bus stops and of- > Free, Tue-Sun 9am-4:30pm. Youyi Lu 31, Hexi 河西 THE ST. REGIS TIANJIN fers free parking for your Audi. Zara, H&M, 区友谊路31号 (022 5879 3000) GAP, Uniqlo et al can be visited along with or Honeymoon Dessert. MinYuan Terrace From to Tianjin, With Love > Daily 10am-10pm, 2-6 Nanmenwai Dajie, Nankai This once neglected, former British concession, 南开区南门外大街2-6号 (www.tjjoycity.com; 022 5861 8888) has grown in recent years to become a vibrant The St. Regis Tianjin has always had wonderful food, but now it’s stepping cultural hub. At the center of this revitalization is the Minyuan Terrace – a bustling arts space up its game even more with the arrival of new Executive Chef Kenny Fong La Vita M that houses a variety of independent eateries, from Singapore. We sat down with Chef Fong over breakfast at Promenade, The newly renovated La Vita has one of the galleries, cocktail bars and the award-winning best locations in town and making it the Minyuan 33 boutique hotel. Not unlike Beijing’s and got to hear his thoughts on China, culinary careers and what we can shopping and dinning centre for white- hutongs, or Shanghai’s lanes, this winding clus- expect from him in the future. collars, hotel guests and local hipsters. > Daily 10am-9pm, 189, Nanjing Road, Heping 和平区 ter is connected by narrow passageways that —You said you fell in love with China, what in particular did you like lead into a series of bright open courtyards. 南京路189号 (www.theexchangetianjin.com; Complimented by a ever rotating display of about it? 022 2304 5555) specially-commissioned outdoor exhibitions, I heard a lot of negative things about China before I came here, that the and under the cover of large leafy English trees, Lotte Minyuen terrace is the perfect place to wile kitchens were dirty and the cuisine bland, but that just isn’t true. Working Right above Line 2, this Korean-based away a long summer afternoon. here reminds me of working in Singapore because of the demand for quality. shopping mall is popular for its nightlife scene: live music, food court on B1, > 1 Changde Dao, Heping 和平区常德道31号 (022 2330 —Do you have a specialty in your chef training? What is the pride of 0896, 022 2339 0525) cinemas and KTV. your work? > Daily 10am-10pm, 137, Dong Ma Lu, Nankai 南开 I consider my specialties to be French, Korean, Japanese and, of course, 区东马路137号 (www.china-lotteshopping.com; 022 5890 8888) Chinese. Recently I’ve been focusing on . But whatever you name, I will cook! Milenio LIFE&STYLE Originally ISETAN, Milenio has good feng —What flavors and inspire your cooking at The St. Regis? shui; also, MUJI, Zara, Paul Frank (plus LISTINGS I have incorporated a lot of the local flavors into my food here, actually. other not-so-famous brands) and the big- Pack a credit card...... ¥ But I also use a lot of the southeastern Chinese flavors because it makes gest Sephora outlet on its 1st floor. > 209, Nanjing Lu (Jili Plaza), Heping Where’s my sugar daddy? ....¥¥ 和平区南京路 us different and people like it [laughs]. I like to use different animal skins, 209号吉利大厦(022 271 16666) Mandarin skills helpful ...... M cream pastes and peanuts to add moisture and texture to some of the more, Parkson SHOPPING in my opinion, blander local foods. I also love to use bean sprout. Like every other Parkson with discounted —Could you talk more about your philosophy towards hospitality and goods on the eighth floor; be wary of Ancient Culture Street M interacting with guests? How do you go about making your guests happy? pickpockets. It’s not particularly ancient – everything > Sun-Thu 9:30am-9:30pm, Fri-Sat 9:30am-10:30pm, here is a modern-looking reconstruction – I saw a video about a chef’s competition in which the winner was a blind 162, Heping Road, Heping 和平区和平路162号 and we’re not sure if endless shops selling (www.parkson.com.cn; 022 8558 6688) the usual trinkets actually counts as cul- woman. The reason she won is because she does not see the food, she only ture, but Ancient Culture Street is certainly tastes it, so her focus is precisely where it needs to be and she can put all of a bustling network of lanes and alleyways her effort into making the best possible taste in a dish. I think every chef in that’s perennially popular with tourists. BEAUTY > Daily, no entrance fee, Gongnan Main Street, Nankai the world needs to learn this – to focus on what matters. You will never be a Lets Nail M ¥ 南开区宫南大街 truly great chef unless you have the passion to create great food. A Manicure and Cosmetic service Brand > Sample Executive Chef Fong’s cuisine at The St. Regis Tianjin. of high fashion, cross-boundary creativity

16 July/August 2016 and exquisite art, has official entered Astor Zheng Sheng Yuan M care, despite the apparent lack of disco Plaza, Tianjin in October, 2015. Our purely The most popular Chinese foot rubs in fuel. The drinks include odd cocktails like China Bleu ¥ aesthetic space is designed as your private town. Korean margaritas. With an enviable reputation as having one gallery, with a gathering of the latest > Daily 11:30am-1am, No.37-39, Youyi Bei Road, Hexi > Sun-Thu 8pm-1am, Fri/Sat 8pm-3am, B1 International of the best views in town – a command- Manicure Fashion Trend and Cutting-Edge 河西区友谊北路37-39号 (022 8345 1166, 022 8345 Building, 75 Nanjing Lu, Heping 和平区南京路75号 ing, 360-degree view from the 50th floor Technique. Lets Nail looks forward to raise 1248) 国际大厦B1楼 across the city that comes alive at night, a new wave of manicure fashion among a 58 kuai Long Island doesn't seem so Chic icons in China. Bavaria Beer Keller M ¥ much. Signature drinks like the China Bleu > Daily 10am-7om, Astor plaza store：2/F, 32 Other Italian Style Street is, if anything, (RMB48), Tianjin Night (RMB68) and Tianjin Taierzhuang Lu, Heping 和平区台儿庄路32号利顺 dominated more by German and French Sling (RMB68) are all popular, as is the live 德大厦二楼 (022 2346 9989) Think Gallery establishments like Paulaner. The vast BBK, jazz band (the female singer sounds like Think Gallery is a social life space that boasting two beer gardens, is probably the Norah Jones.) OPI Nail Salon M advocates a unique lifestyle. With its own largest land-grab by the German contin- > Daily 6.30pm-2am, 50th Floor, Tangla Hotel, 219 Every girl loves OPI’s mani- and pedicures experiential online shop and a self-run gent, and a seriously mixed bag. Sure, the Nanjing Rd, Heping 南京路219号唐拉雅秀酒店49楼 and there are tons of different colors to social media, THINK GALLERY will establish beers (from RMB55) are quality and the (022 2321 5888, 022 2317 5293) choose from. its leading position in the fashion circle Radlers – especially the schwarzbier mit > Daily 10am-10pm, 3-30A, JoyCity, No.2 Nanmenwai of Tianjin. cola (black beer with Coke; RMB48) – fun Dublin Irish Pub * ¥ Dajie, Nankai 南开区南门外大街2号大城3楼30A > 1/F ITC Shopping Center, at the crossing of Nanjing but for that price? Couple with too-loud The popular TEDA watering hole now has (022 5810 0179) Road and Hefei Road, Hexi 河西区小白楼国贸购物 music from the cheesy house band and a large branch downtown, and we’re going 中心底商(南京路与合肥道交口)(022 5995 9455) some seriously drunk men enjoying the to go out on a limb and say it’s probably Sakura Nail Salon M Paulaner one-meter-board selection of 10 the best pub in town (though you could The easygoing laoban niang encourages draught beers (from RMB288)at weekends, argue it’s the only one in town). The well- staff to be creative for unique pinkies and you have an unsophisticated drinking stocked Irish bar including ice-cold Guin- every time. experience that’s popular with locals. ness, Kilkenny and Jagermeister on tap. > Daily 10am-9pm, 101-2 Guidu Building, Yingkou Dao BAR LISTINGS > Daily 10am-2am, Italian Style Street, Ziyoudao 4, > Downtown branch: Daily 10am-1am, 62, Jiefang Bei (at the intersection with Hebei Road), Heping 和平 Hebei district (022 2445 6112) Lu, Heping 和平区解放北路62号 (022 2330 7233); 区营口道与河北路交口贵都大厦底商101-2 (022 Slightly pricey Binhai branch: 137 Cui Heng Square at crossroads of 2711 7080, 138 0202 0708) (RMB150-250pp)...... ¥ Bed Bar** No.3 Street and Xin Cheng Xi Lu, Third Avenue, TEDA Once one of the best hutong hangout 开发区第三大街137号 (020 6629 2963) Shang Pin Manicure M ¥ Expense Account! (RMB250+pp) ...... ¥¥ spots in Beijing, the relocated Bed Bar Good service and quality polish, so the Exchange * Mandarin skills helpful ...... M brings with it all the laid-back, intimate cost can be quite high. That’s the price of charm of the original, as well as countless One of Tianjin's buzziest bars, thanks to Recommended ...... * looking good! That's Beijing awards of years gone by. The its open-floor location in the middle of > Daily 10am-10pm, 1 Nanbei Dajie, 2-21B, Capita Malls Unmissable ...... ** capital's loss is Tianjin's gain. With upstairs the Westin's impressively appointed lobby, 南北大街1号凯德Mall 2楼21B (022 8826 8599) areas featuring (as the name might sug- Exchange is a meeting place to see and be gest) beds to recline on and an outside seen. Don’t miss the hotel’s Happy Hour The Top Bars and Clubs courtyard in the picturesque Minyuan Ter- (6-9pm), where a mere RMB88 will get HAIR race complex, there are few better places you free-flow selected cocktails, wine and in the city to enjoy a cocktail. beer. There’s also a decent array of bar A&J About This guide represents our editors’ top picks, and includes some That’s > Mon–Thu 3pm–11pm, Fri 3pm-1am, Sat 12pm-1am, snack-type nibbles on the menu while you A&J focuses on style: ask for hairdresser Sun 11am-10pm; Changde Dao, Gui Lin Lu, No.5 people watch. Xiao Lei or Seven. Tianjin advertisers. All bars have been personally reviewed by our team of Minyuan Xili, Heping 和平区常德道桂林路交叉口 > Daily, 9am-10pm, The Westin, 101 Nanjing Lu, Heping > Daily 9am-9:30pm, 124, Xinhua Road, Heping 和平 民园西里内 (022 2330 0896) 和平区南京路101号 (022 2389 0168) 124 (022 2711 7798) / 107 Guangdong expeWrts, and scored according to the 区新华路 号 drinks, experience and affordability. Road, Hexi 河西区广东路107号 (022 8381 8272) Bedroom Bar M Flair, The Ritz-Carlton, Tianjin** The owners cheerfully admit that they You’ve got to pretty confident to call your- Dada Star M 1308 Drei Kronen Brauhaus stole their concept off our fair sister-city’s self Flair, because it’s a name that suggests Tucked in a high-rise building, the studio is Beside the River Hai is a cluster of copycat classic Bed Bar (see p41). In fairness, they you’ve got something worth showing off. hard to locate but has enough of a reputa- have given the idea of ‘beds’ in a bar a We expect impeccably turned out mixolo- tion that reservations are recommended. bars, of which Drei Kronen is an original. twist: it now feels like you’re right in the gists, theatrics with the cocktails shakers > Daily 11am-10pm, 1-506, Building 1, Chengji Center, One of the world’s oldest heritage brewer- ies, DK has been focusing on China, with middle of a Clockwork Orange, rather and drinks that are worth writing home No.125, Nanjing Road, Heping 和平区南京路125号 than a courtyard haunt (though you’ll about. Luckily this bar is located at the 诚基中心1号楼1门506 (022 2315 5218) branches now in Beijing and Shanghai. Apart from its dependable food, the beer is still find the hipsters). White walls, neon Ritz-Carlton, Tianjin where standards are lofty and self-assured names are justified. Kajia Zaoxing M ¥¥ heavy but excellent – particularly the black. strip-lights, homemade shisha pipes from Offset the similarly heavy prices by taking Absolut bottles (they have 29 flavors) and The bare brick walls and exposed metal Located in the very center of the CBD, bars are intricate and delicate, which is just prices here can be high. advantage of their happy hour. drinks you inhale mean this is a spot worth > Daily 11am-midnight, 1F, BLK 5, Jinwan Plaza, Jiefang checking out: we drank a RMB28 shot how head barman Paul likes his signature > Daily 10am-9pm, 2nd Floor, Building B, International cocktails, such as a Chocolate Martini and Shopping Mall (Close to Xikai Cathedral) 211, Nanjing Bei Lu, Heping 和平区解放北路48号津湾广场5号 called Drug that felt like it was invented 楼D座1-2楼 (022 2321 9199) by a fuerdai; it probably was. All in all, an a China Rose Martini. The Long Beach Ice Road, Heping 和平区南京路211号国际商场B座2楼 Tea, which contains vodka, rum, gin and (近西开教堂) (022 2783 1639) ephemeral pleasure. 1362 义聚永 > Daily 12pm-2am, Commercial Site, No. 1-4, Chaoyang tequila can hardly be described as delicate but it the punch it packs is well worth it. Li Zhi En Beauty Salon Jazz tunes waft ovef relaxed conversation Li, Heyan Dao, Heping district 和平区河沿道朝阳里 Order pan-Asian snacks if you’re after some Korean-run hairdresser with friendly staff and clinking beer glasses at this friendly 1-4号底商 (135 1226 1277) kitchen-based flair. and great service. downtown bar. An ideal place to break up > Fri/Sat 5pm-1am, Sun-Thu 5pm-12am, The Ritz- > Daily 9am-9pm, 97 Rose Eton Apartment Building, Er your day and watch the crowds go by with Blauer Engel (Blue Angel) ¥ * Wei Lu, Nankai an RMB40 can of German beer, 1362 pays Judging from its name – derived from the Carlton, Tianjin, No. 167 Dagubei Road, Heping 和平区 167 (022 5857 8888) 南开区耳纬路伊顿玫瑰公寓底商97号 (022 8735 tribute to a local 14th-century brewery that first German ‘talkie,’ which also claims 大沽北路 号 9086) moved out of the city, leaving the building to be the first foreign film ever screened Hank’s Bar & Grill to be remodeled as a stylish watering hole. in China – Blauer Engel should mainly Live music and dice games available. serve beer. However, the bartender is This ten-year-old institution has recently SPA AND MASSAGE > Daily 11am-2am, 31, Kaifeng Dao (European Style also passionate about cocktails – he can benefited from a long-overdue move to a Street, Xiaobai Lou), Heping 和平区开封道小白楼 do much more than just the items on the new and improved location. The place has Banyan Tree Spa Riverside ¥ ¥ 欧式风情街31号 scroll menus. So remember to tell him your a fiercely loyal following among middle- Gloablly acclaimed luxury spa preference, and he will cook something aged expats craving their ‘Murica fix and offering pampering and massage “experi- Alibaba ¥ * special up just for you. Plus, the two-man its raucous Fourth of July/ SuperBowl/“We ences” of the very highest standards. With a decade of history making this is band here is pretty decent; the girl in Sure Killed Bin Laden” parties are Tianjin > Daily 11am-10pm, 19, Changde Dao, Heping 和平区 one of the oldest bars in town. Alibaba’s particular has a fantastic voice. Weather institutions. 常德道19号(022 2330 9861, 151 2259 9861) salad days are probably behind it but you permitting, you can sit outside and enjoy > Daily 11am-11pm, Room 333, Building 6 Wanke Jin can always come here for an RMB35 Long the beautiful yard of Hotel Indigo, to which Ao International Square, Zhong Shi You Bridge, Wei Heavenly Spa by Westin ¥ Island Ice Tea after midnight and perhaps this bar belongs. Jin Nan Lu, Hexi 河西区卫津南路中石油桥下万科 The 90-minute Heavenly Spa Signature play some foosball. Food is always avail- > 5pm-1am, 314 Jiefang South Rd, Hexi district河西区 金奥国际广场商业6号楼333室 (022 5966; theup- Massage, with heated compress and foot able and diverse, because it used to be 解放南路314号 (022 8832 7698) [email protected]) bath will leave you ready for anything – as crowded with foreign students from the will the Aquatic Synergy bath. neighborhood. No live bands, but it can Blowing in the Wind * Helen’s Cafe 海伦咖啡 * > Daily 10am-midnight, 6th Floor, Westin Hotel, 101 get noisy when all the tables are occupied This little bar is famous for its Mexican- Like Kenny G and construction rubble, Nanjing Lu, Heping 和平区南京路101号威斯汀酒 – when it’s not, though, be sure to poke style vibe – meaning its food and colorful Helen’s is everywhere in China. Beijing, 店6楼 (022 2389 0088) around the eclectic décor, which includes Latino drinks, rather than any gang war- Chengdu, Shanghai, Wuhan, Xiamen and, a full mock-up of the famous 10 Downing fare or drug problems. The owner is fairly yep, Tianjin, which ‘boasts’ two. You know I SPA ¥ Street facade in London. accomplished at mixology himself, so he the drill: RMB8 draft Tsingtao, backpack- Soothing scents, relaxing music, dim light- > Daily 11am-2pm, Weihua Li, Tong An Rd (close to has a very high standard of cocktails. Order ers’ graffiti, cheap drinks, RMB38 buckets ing – all that jazz. Wujiayao 4 Rd), Hexi 河西区同安道卫华里小区内( a classic Mojito (RMB50), or venture into of fake alcohol, shisha pipes, half-decent > Daily 2pm-11pm, 7th Floor, Tangla Hotel, 219 Nanjing 近吴家窑四号路) (022 2351 3976) one a “Pink Trap” (RMB60) – again, not food; go for the pizza – but don’t, you Road, Heping 和平区南京路219号唐拉雅秀酒店7 a honeypot who will leave you in a bath know, go for the pizza. The crowd is 80 楼 (022 2317 5263, 022 2317 5262) The Bar Kei 桂酒吧 M ¥ * of ice with a kidney missing, but a lady percent local, with a smattering of foreign Although most of the time, ‘K Bar’ (as it’s cocktail – or something with an equally students (there are three local universities) Thai Fe generally known) is a quiet basement bar, intriguing name like the “AMF”(Adiós and the atmosphere convivial. A good Miss that bone-cracking session in Thai- at weekends and special occasions, it turns Motherf***er, RMB60) or just enjoy the place to pre-game but remember: those land? Thai Fe is the best place to get one into Tianjin’s cutting-edge underground “Illusion”(RMB60), then soak it up with drink are cheap for a reason and if you get in Wudadao. bar specializing in blips, breakz and beats. some nachos or taco beef. Just have a there late, be willing to share a big table > Daily 11am-10pm, 19, Changde Dao, Heping 和平区 Importing acts such as Lee and good time, gringo and make it back over with infinite possibilities. 常德道19号 (022 2330 9861, 151 2259 9861) Eddie Lv from Beijing clubs like Haze and the border... > Daily, 10pm-3am, He Yan Dao 116, (by Qixiangtai Lantern, Bar Kei attracts hip (or hip-acting) > Daily 6pm-midnight, Wujiayao Er Lu, Heping 和平区 Lu and just over the Wu Jia Yao Number Two Bridge) clubbers, who throw shapes like they really 吴家窑二号路(近蛇口道), (022 2351 4989) Heping 和平区河沿道116号吴家窑2号桥旁 (022

July/August 2016 17 2330 6866) 2334 0071) OPEN DOOR QBa, The Westin Tianjin** Indie Bar Located on the second floor of the Westin, Run by a cool young couple who you’ll QBa sees the rough brilliance of Havana probably meet at the bar, Indie – as the and Trinidad transplanted onto Tianjin. name would suggest – is a chilled place to Heavy on Latin-inspired ornaments and hang out and listen to some local budding decor – think pre-Castro nostalgic Cuba – musicians (many from nearby universities.) and we’ll give you one guess what drink Big gin and juice or vodka coke at RMB15 we were recommend. Yes, it’s a Mojito for weekend Happy Hours and RMB10 (although the Caipirinha is not bad either) Tsingtaos all day Sunday mean the prices and it’s served in a setting that oozes hotel are well within the busking musician’s chic without feeling stifling or preten- price range. tious. The fact that you can play Nintendo > Daily (closed Thursdays) 6pm-late, 1 Yichang Nanli, Wii on a gigantic screen is also a major Yichang Dao & Xiangtai Lu, Heping 和平区 宜昌道宜 draw to the place – we got into a game of 昌南里底商 (139 2030 1982) bowling that lasted for almost two hours and a good few rounds of drinks – and so Lancelot M is the quick service and more than decent A rock heritage – the landlord is a bar food. synthesizer whizz whose mother owns a > Daily 6pm-1am, No.101 Nanjing Lu, Westin Hotel, livehouse – means Lancelot teeters on the 2/F, Heping district和平区南京路101号威斯汀酒店 edge of being a livehouse but given that 二楼 (022 2389 0088) it is generally quite dead most nights, we didn’t spend too much time agonizing Second Floor M ¥ which. The lack of any draught beer would Once a noisy nightclub (Scarlet), the normally kill it off completely, but Lancelot renamed Second Floor restaurant-bar is is partly saved by some kick-ass profes- now a more laidback place. The (English- sional pool tables out back (RMB20; RMB48 speaking) head bartender, Kevin, learnt his after 8pm), used for local tournaments. craft from Beijing’s whisky-bar legends and Music doesn’t start until after 10pm. his passion and creativity have infected the > Daily 7am-Midnight, No.228 Xinhua Road, Heping 和 whole staff. They’ll be more than happy to 平区新华路228号 (022 2339 9557) prepare bespoke drinks and generally en- sure your drinking pleasure, while a small Le Loft ¥ * band plays Chinese classics. Just don’t Once the diners have gone home, it’s expect anything too crazy – after all, there’s all-night cocktail hour at this chic Chinese a functioning Sichuan restaurant slap-bang fusion venue, where you’re likely to find in the middle of the dancefloor. some of the city’s sexiest people working > 2nd Floor (opposite Tianjin University), Bolian through the wine list. Building, 155 Weijing Lu, Nankai district 南开区卫 > See Restaurant Listings for details 津路155号博联大厦2楼(天津大学对面) (022 2337 2444) Le Procope** A candlelit interior and sleek, industrial-like Sitong Bar M décor set the mood at Le Procope, perhaps Though the name and decor are Chinese, Tianjin’s most popular – and certainly Sitong is the after-hours club du jour for the most creative - cocktail lounge. The stylish needy and desperate (foreign and domestic parlor serves up a solid list of predefined alike). Wander in around 1am and expect and bespoke libations. While some of the to find archetypal Yellow Fever sufferers, drinks are exhilarating for their presenta- gurning to deafening music, traditional tion some, like an excellent Old Fashioned, Chinese twerking and, of course, a Filipino are remarkable for their flavor. Prices for band. The drinks flow fast and cheap, cocktails are around RMB50, while beers hence the local saying: “If you cannot get are around RMB30. Whisky aficionados will laid in Sitong/ Then you’re doing it all be impressed by their scotch selection. wrong.” Stay safe, amigos! > Daily 7.30pm-late, Chengde Lu (at the intersection > Daily 8.30pm-3am, Basement of Olympic Towers, with Shandong Lu), Heping 和平区承德道与山东路 No.126 Chengdu Dao, Heping 和平区成都道126号奥 交口 (022 2711 9858) 林匹克大厦负一层 (022 2337 7177; 138 2622 6777)

MUSE* River Lounge ¥¥ ** Picture the scene: it’s a cavernous base- There are few better ways to enjoy the ment club, similar in many ways to Ele- sparkling views of the Hai River than ments in Gongti, Beijing. The club is packed by drinking it all in with a Bloody Mary. with people looking like they aren’t enjoy- Relax on a luxurious leather sofa and ing themselves: there’s a ton of phone enjoy complimentary snacks (including fiddlers, and some long-legged woman an international cheese selection) during looking bored at the idea of life itself. But Happy Hour (6pm-8pm). A location close here’s a group of spiky-haired young men to the lobby means things remain lively with two bottles of expensive foreign liq- yet still discreet whether it is an afternoon uor open in front of them and apparently rendezvous with tea and cakes or cocktail no idea what to do next. Get the picture? hour, when Bloody Mary aficionados seek It’s bizarre but it’s engrossing. out the famous World Tour (with appetiz- > Daily 7.30pm-late, at the intersection with Xi’an Dao ers) of the signature drink. and Liuzhou Lu, Heping, 和平区西安道与柳州路交

PHOTOS BY HOLLY LI HOLLY BY PHOTOS > Daily 10am-1am, 158, Zhang Zi Zhong Lu, St. Regis 口 (150 2219 9444) Hotel, 1st Floor, Heping 和平区张自忠路158号瑞吉 金融街酒店一楼 (022 5830 9958) O’Hara’s English Pub ¥ ** VENEZIA CLUB At the back of the Astor Hotel, where the Truemans Bar * former lobby once greeted colonial guests, Sure, 99 percent of the clientele are English you will find a most clubbable English Tianji-talia teachers who live five minutes away, but gentleman’s lounge, complete with regal this partly foreign-owned bar – featuring Winchester-style sofas, an extensive single- a dog called Skipper – has friendly service, malt whisky bar (regulars can keep bottles) Authentic Italian food in Tianjin? Sure. lots of beer and cocktails and decent grub. and spot-on live music. Even by mid-week, And we mean authentic. Venezia Club is situated in a beautiful European- The community around Truemans also this place starts getting lively after 9pm hosts regular movie nights, live music most with locals who thrill to the old English style buildings within the Former Italian Concession. It imports wine, cheese Saturdays and pub quizzes, but check the atmosphere and expert bartending (try and meat from Italy. And, best of all, it has an "Ospitalita' Italiana" quality map carefully – this place is nestled deep in their cocktail creations). certification issued by the Italian Chamber of Commerce that proves its au- a hard-to-find alley off Wandezhuang Dajie. > Daily 5pm-1am, 33 Taierzhuang Lu, Heping 和平区 > Mon-Sun 11am-late, 37 Long De Li, Wandezhuang, 台儿庄路33号天津利顺德大饭店豪华精选酒店1 thenticity. But you can find all that out just by looking online – for the real Nankai 南开区万德庄龙德里37号底商 (137 5239 层 (020 2331 1688) Venezia Club experience, you have to taste it. 1091) Paulaner Brauhaus ¥ The star of Venezia Club’s menu is, well, a star – the Stella Pizza (‘stella’ Xingyue Bar * Usually quiet before dinner but afterwards, is Italian for ‘star’) is a delicious dish whose triangular points each contain a the place comes alive with house bands different flavor. But ’s got more than pizza. At Venezia Club, we Supplying single malt whisky (made in playing varying genres, while Paulaner’s Uk & Janpan), Hungarian noble rot wine, food (sausage plates, pork knuckles and sample everything from mouth-watering antipasti to hearty pastas, and they Moscato sparkling and Cuban cigars. Jazz other Bavarian delights) and beer, brewed are all uniformly delicious. And best of all, the drink selection we have to music live show every Statuary. on site, is known to be a safe bet round water it all down with is as wonderfully diverse as Italy itself. Cheers. > No. 206, Bldg 20, Shidai Aocheng Apartment, Nankai these parts. 南开区时代奥城酒店式公寓20号楼206 (130 > Daily, No.243 Xinhua Lu (close to Chongqing Dao) > Venezia Club, 48 Ziyou Dao, Former Italian Concession Area, Hebei district 2135 2608) Heping 和平区 新华路243号(近重庆道), (022 河北区意大利风情街自由道48号

18 July/August 2016 The Ritz-Carlton, Tianjin is one of the most >blue frog Riverside 66: Unit 3009, Riverside 66, No.166 phere puts you in the mood for locally HOTELS impressive new hotels on the scene, with a Xing'an Road, Heping 和平区兴安路166号恒隆广场 famous dish black garlic beef (RMB48). great selection of food and drink options. 3009室(022 2345 9028); blue frog Joy City: 1/F-J02, Joy Don’t like garlic or beef? There are plenty Astor Hotel ¥¥ The interior could rival Buckingham Palace City, No.2 Nanmen Wai Dajie, Nankai 南开区南门外 of other things, such as the eight treasure China’s oldest international hotel, the for its grandeur. 大街2-6号南开大悦城1层J02 (022 2735 8751) tofu (basically, tofu with seafood and meat, Astor looks the part and has the heritage > No. 167 Dagubei Road, Heping 和平区大沽北路167 RMB48), braised eggplant (RMB33) and the to boot: past guests include Sun Yat sen, 号 (5857 8888) Maison Flo (French) ** ¥¥ refreshing mustard cucumber (RMB18). Herbert Hoover and Zhou Enlai, while the Marble slabs, mosaic floors and brass > 101-103 Cheng Du Dao (close to Gui Lin Lu), Heping hotel even served as a base for endangered Tangla ¥¥ fittings establish the Parisian bona fides; 和平区成都道101-103号(近桂林路) (022 2339 7530) expats during the Boxer Rebellion (1899- Formerly the Tianjin Raffles, which pulled out dishes like snails (RMB168), oysters 1901). Restored to its former glory a few a couple of years back – sending a shudder (RMB58) and steak tartare (RMB188) Hongxing Canting (Traditional Hot-pot) years back, the hotel now features 152 up the international hotel trade – the Tangla confirm. The grandeur is matched only by * M well-appointed rooms: choose between boasts the largest suites in town, all richly ap- service, though how impressive you find You can have all three daily meals in this modern elegance and Victorian style. pointed in Art Deco-style furnishings. Buffet it might depend on who’s paying (about little restaurant, all for less than a hundred > From RMB850, 33 Taierzhuang Lu, Heping 和平区台 restaurant Sóu restaurant specializes in sushi, RMB300-500 per head, including wine). VIP kuai. In the morning, try authentic Tianjin 儿庄路33号天津利顺德大饭店豪华精选酒店1层 Boston lobster, Dalian oysters and homemade room available. lao doufu and guo ba cai. For lunch or (020 2331 8920; www.starwoodhotels.com) pizza, plus a fantastic city view, while the > Daily 11am-3pm; 5.30-11pm, 37 Guangfu Lu, Italian dinner, go for old-fashioned Mongolian hotel bar is one of the most popular in town. Style Street, Hebei 河北区意式风情街光复道37号 hotpot with hand-sliced mutton, (the Banyan Tree ¥¥ > From RMB989, 219, Nanjing Lu, Heping 和平区南京 近新意街 (022 2662 6688; burst stomach is also worth ordering if The lifestyle hotel landed in Tianjin in 路219号天津中心唐拉雅秀酒店 (022 2321 5888) www.flo.cn/brasserie) you literally have the guts.) Don’t forget April and was an immediate hit with its beef-stuffed sesame cake, which goes with riverside location – in the former Austrian Tianjin Three Brothers Youth Hostel Chateau 35 (French) everything in the pot. concession district, filled with European The YHA is still relatively new in Tianjin, but Longstanding wine bar and bistro in the > Daily 6am-2pm, 5pm-10pm, Xinxing Lu (crossroads of villas, bridges and churches – featuring this tourist-friendly hostel tucked away in Wu Wu Dao Dao area. Well-known for their Siping Dong Dao), Heping 和平区新兴路与四平东 159 guestrooms, the best of which have Da Dao has your back(pack). Bike rentals and imported Australian steak and wood fired 道交口 (135 1226 8546) river views and giant circular bathtubs horse-drawn carriages are minutes away and pizzas – the latter up there with the best easily good for two (or more). With JIN bar the hostel is clean. RMB238 gets you a private in Beijing. Look out for wine tasting events In & Out (Yunnan) M ¥ and two restaurants (The Grill particularly room with king-sized bed. and make use of their garden in summer The cuisine ‘beneath the clouds’ uses recommended), you’ll never need to leave, > From RMB80 (RMB70 YHA), 141, Chongqing Lu, months. mushrooms, cheese and flowers in a way indulging instead in Banyan’s “experiences” Heping 和平区重庆道141号 (022 2723 9777; 186 > Daily 10:30am-midnight, Opposite 79, ChangDe Dao, no other region in China does. This restau- (they’re not just massages, people!) 2285 2808; [email protected]) Heping 和平区常德道久和里1号 (022 2331 5678) rant – Zuo Yi Wang in Chinese – adopts a > 34 Haihe East Road, Hebei 河北区海河东路 100 percent approach, from the staff (most- 34号 (022 5861 9999; www. banyantree.com; Westin ¥¥ Cholito (Spanish) ** ¥ ly Yunnan minorities) to the decor. And, of email:[email protected]) Rising above the old concession precincts, The best Spanish restaurant in town also course, the dishes – especially the roasted the Westin’s dramatic lobby immediately happens to be (pretty much) the only one – tilapia (RMB45) and boletes (RMB88, for Cloudy Bay Hostel M puts guests at ease with its sense of a but Cholito doesn’t rest on its laurels. luck). The famous hei san duo (sautéed, The décor of this downtown hotel evokes chattering but relaxed social hub. Close > Sun-Thurs, 11am-11pm; Fri-Sat 11am-1am, Intersec- chopped pork, RMB98) goes perfectly with a Mediterranean villa, thanks to its origins to the best shopping areas, The Westin tion of Luoyang Road and Hebei Road, No. 4, Xian Nong the famous pineapple rice (RMB38). in the 1930s concession era, and it’s now has 275 understated rooms with Herman Da Yuan, Heping 和平区洛阳道与河北路交叉路口 > Daily 10:30am-9pm, 55 Luoyang Road, Xian Nong painted a distinctive blue and white. Facilities Millar furnishings, signature Heavenly Beds 先农大院4号 (022 5835 2833) Square, Heping 和平区洛阳道55号先农大院内 include a fantastic rooftop bar (with BBQ for and rainforest showers. Heated pool, an (022 5870 1999) summer grilling), kitchen, 24-hour hot water, ultra-modern gym, signature Heavenly spa Cafe Sambal (SE Asian) ** A/C, free Wi-Fi, laundry bike rental service. by Westin and gourmet breakfast buffet When it comes to Malay food in a hutong, Jinmen Yichuan (BBQ) * M Female dorm and (reasonably smart) private tick all the ritzy boxes. There's also a great nowhere does it better in China than The first choice for mutton chuan'r (Chi- bedrooms with en-suite bathrooms are avail- range of restaurants with western and Sambal. Admittedly, that’s something of nese shashlik) without worrying it might able for a price. The small family restaurant Chinese both represented. a niche category, but then so is the food. be rat. Have the ordinary ones (RMB4 per next door offers terrific local food, friendly > From RMB855, 101 Nanjing Lu, Heping 和平区南 京 The spicy Kapitan-style chicken is pricey, stick, twice what you’d pay on the street) service and rock-bottom prices. 路101号 (022 2389 0088; www.westin.com/tianjin) but well worth it. An oxtail soup is rich and or pay five times as much for its so-called > Dorms from RMB60-80 (YHA card permitting); private tasty, and there’s Tom Yum Gong if you “Extraordinary Chuanr,” though there may rooms from RMB380, 120 Harbin Roald, Heping 和平 prefer a little zing. not be much of a difference. Don’t miss its 区哈尔滨路120号 (022 2723 0606; cloudybayhostel@ > Daily 11.30am-midnight, 5 Minyuan Xi Li, 31 Changde “Extraordinary Lamb Chop” (RMB20 each) hotmail.com) Dao, Heping 和平区常德道31号民园西里5号 (022 and lamb spine hot pot (RMB45). 2330 0896, 022 2339 0525) > Daily 11am-3am, 72 Qi Xiang Tai Lu, Hexi 河西区气 Hanting 汉庭酒店 M RESTAURANT 象台路72号 (022 2355 1111) A respectable budget option in China, Duo Fu Lou (Tianjin) * M Hanting offer reasonably smart – if a touch LISTINGS Famous for innovative but traditional Jincai Diancang (Tianjin) * M ¥ Spartan – rooms with old-fashioned hotel de- Tianjin cuisine (RMB100-300 a head), and Innovative Tianjin cuisine for about cor, and decent showers. Never a bad choice Top Restaurants non-traditional decorations, mixing a RMB150-200; recommended dishes include if you just want a place to crash and send a European style with Chinese furnishings. their signature snack, youtiao (deep-fried couple of emails. We recommend the sai pangxie (‘Crab dough sticks) with shrimp. The old- About This guide represents our editors’ fashioned yogurt and traditional Tianjin > From RMB208, 164 Liaoning Lu, Heping 和平区辽宁 top picks, and includes some That’s Tianjin Lookalike’ – it’s actually made from fish and 路164号 022 5885 3288) eggs), a signature dish. sausages are what gets locals hot under advertisers. All restaurants have been the collar, come suppertime. personally reviewed by our team of ex- > Daily 10am-2pm, 4:30-9:30pm, No.197-4 Chongqing Holiday Inn 假日酒店 ¥ Dao (at the crossing with Yunnan Lu), Heping 和平 > 22 Tianwei Lu (close to Bo Yuan Mall, Da Bei Temple perts, and scored according to the cuisine, Commercial Street), Hebei 22 Out of eight in Tianjin, the branch right by experience, cleaniless and affordability. 区重庆道197号增4号(云南路口), (022 2311 2323, 河北区天纬路 号底商 the Tianjin Eye on the Haihe – about a ten 022 2330 2323) 近大悲院商业街博远商城 (022 2622 3333) minute walk from Banyan Tree – offers the best location, as well as 419 clean, standard, Dublin Irish Pub (European) * ¥ Jinxin Hongmen Yangrou (Hot pot) * M tastefully decorated riverside rooms. Banyan Tree, Riverside Tianjin * * ¥ This local pub boasts a former chef from Stewed lamb in spicy sauce is a Tianjin per- > From RMB730, Phoenix Shopping Mall A, Haihe Dong The Banyan Tree Riverside Tianjin’s Bai Beijing’s Great Wall Hotel who has put ennial, especially in winter. At this simple, Lu, Hebei 河北区海河东路 (022 5863 2999; www. Yun Chinese fine dining restaurant offers together dishes from escargots and roasted somewhat scruffy restaurant, they have ihg.com) expertly prepared Cantonese and Tianjin- oysters to New Zealand steak and shep- their own recipe, plus deep-fried shaobing influenced cuisine, like sautéed snow beef herd’s pie. Perhaps the highlight, though, (sesame seed cakes). But lower your expec- tations for service – the waitresses are all Minyuan 33 民园33 ¥¥ with garlic and spring onion and double- is the German menu, which features a Minyuan is the best choice for those who like boiled black truffle with sea snail. Better smorgasbord of sausages and expertly ayi in their 50s. the high life but prefer an intimate setting. still, it comes with a riverside view. cooked Pork Knuckle. Despite the variety, > Daily 10am-11pm, 205 Harbin Dao, Heping 和平区哈 With seven spacious, British-themed rooms > 34 Haihe East Road, Hebei 河北区海河东路34号 the quality doesn’t suffer and the prices are 尔滨道205号 (022 2712 9380) (we highly recommend the James Bond) in (022 5861 9999) as respectable as the fare. Kiessling 起士林 (Western) ¥ * an historic hutong setting, right next to some > See Bar Listings for details. Kiessling is the oldest Western-restaurant of the best restaurants in town (Café Sambal, 1863 Bistro & Terrace * ¥ Boasting authentic bygone-era menus and in Tianjin; every local speaks proudly of it. Geba Geba and Casa di Niao), bars and clubs. Geba Geba (Japanese) ¥ M The four-story building offers a different > From RMB980, 5 Minyuan Xi Li, 31 Changde Dao, wines, 1863 relives the concession days The best way to enjoy with epicurean versions of classics like flavor on every floor. The ground-level Heping 和平区常德道31号民园西里5号 (022 2331 is to watch the sushi chef prepare your bakery is where it started – the original 1626; www.minyuan33.com) escargots, prawn cocktail (both RMB88), food as you wait. Geba Geba guarantees fish and chips and chicken pot-pie (both owner was a German baker. Second floor is that should you wish, and its cozy location mainly Russian, with a must-order stewed St. Regis RMB188). adds to its allure. > Daily 11.30am-2pm; 5.30pm- beef in casserole (RMB68). One of the most prestigious of the down- > Daily 2-10pm (kitchen opens at 6pm, see O’Hara‘s in 11pm, 4 Minyuan Xi Li,31 Changde Dao, Heping 和平 (as well as beer) is on the third, and French town hotels, St Regis combines a respect Bar Listings (022 2331 1688 ext.8918) 区常德道31号民园西里院内4号 (022 2339 6673) on the fourth. for tradition, such as its signature Bloody > 10am-9.30pm, 33 Zhe Jiang Lu , Heping 和平区浙江 Mary, with classical style – not to mention Bistro Theonet (British) * ¥ Goubuli 狗不理 (Tianjin) * ¥ M 路33号 起士林饭店 (022 2331 9188, 022 2339 3533) fantastic river views, 274 sumptuous rooms Part of the Qing Wang Fu complex, this The classic san xian buns (RMB48/eight) and Tianjin’s first Butler Service: Personalized British-style café serves gastropub fare are essential and you can ask a kuaibanr Kitchen Igosso (Italian) * ¥ One of a bi-lingual attention. It’s close to summertime beside an AstroTurf garden, complete with performer to tell you the history of the half-dozen restaurants boosting the rede- favorite Italian Style Street, though both fountain. brand with a heavy Tianjin accent. It’s velopment of Xian Nong Square – similar restaurants are top notch, and there’s a com- > Daily 10:30am-10:30pm, 55 Chongqing Road, Heping fun – if you understand what the hell he is to the famous Shanghai Xintiandi – Igosso plimentary finger buffet come Happy Hour. 和平区重庆道55号庆王府院内 (022 5835 2555; talking about. serves authentic Italian, like arugula salad > From RMB850, 158 Zhangzizhong Lu, Heping www.qingwangfu.com) 和 > 77 Shandong Lu, Heping 和平区山东路77号 (022 (RMB48; hard to find elsewhere), lasagna 158 (022 5830 9999; www. 平区张自忠路 号 2730 2540) (RMB98), pizza (RMB60-98), and desserts starwoodhotels.com) Blue Frog Guiyuan Canting (Tianjin) * M like caramel brûlée (RMB40) and an innova- The Ritz-Carlton ¥¥ This Shanghai franchise has One of the earliest ‘Tianjin cuisine’ restau- tive tiramisu (RMB48), which uses seasonal Occupying a grand and imposing neo- been keeping Americans in China obese rants – meaning it’s all of 20-odd years old fruits as the base. colonial reconstruction on Jeifang Beilu, since it opened. Monday’s burger deal is – but much cheaper than Goubuli at about > Daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30pm-10pm, 55 Luoyang Road, always packed. RMB60-150 a head. The home-style atmos- Xian Nong Square, Heping 和平区洛阳道55号先农

July/August 2016 19 大院内 (022 5835 2860) 百货B2楼 (022 2718 8503) hour. Brunch? > Daily 10am-10pm, B1-111, Galaxy Underground > Daily 11am-10.30pm, Olympic Tower, 1F, 126, Plaza, Hexi 河西区银河地下商业广场B1-111 (022 La Casa Di Nao (Italian) ¥ M MAXIM's DE PARIS** Chengdu Road, Heping 和平区成都道126号盛捷奥 8388 0888) Low-profile, romantic Italian eatery, With a history that stretches back as far as 林匹克大厦107-108室 (022 2351 2887) discreetly tucked into a converted terrace the concessions of Tianjin, Maxim's de Paris Takara Sushi 宝寿司 home in Wu Da Dao. The smartly turned- is a French fine dining institution – a time- Qing Wang Fu (South Chinese) * M ¥¥ (Japanese) * M ¥¥ out Japanese owner, once head chef to the honored brand of joie de vivre and deca- Don’t miss Chef Deng Qun She’s unique This little restaurant only offers 10 seats Italian Embassy in Tokyo, believes in good dence. The indulgence comes in the form creations, expanding Guangdong cuisine to (four at the saké bar), so you have the service – that’s why he owns another seven of oysters, seafood platters, bouillabaisse incorporate a ‘heavier’ sauce-based Tianjin staff’s full attention, at least. The ingredi- restaurants in Japan. Though the food soup, terrines and foie gras – classic French style in dishes like ribs in orange sauce. For ents are carefully prepared to be the best, might seem pricey – most antipasto range that’s only available in a few appetizers, try the sliced pig’s trotter (fen which is why the sushi and sashimi are from RMB60-90 and the carne and pesce select restaurants across China. Perhaps the te), marinated in soy sauce, sugar and clas- pricey (usually RMB300 per person.) mains start around RB120 – the experience most flamboyant choice on the menu is the sic Shanxi wine (feng zhou); the duck soup > Mon-Sat 11am-10pm, Sun 11am-9pm, 55 Luoyang and authenticity, such as the Neapolitan- chocolate dessert: a white chocolate orb is amazingly rich in taste. Road, Xian Nong Square, Heping 和平区洛阳道55号 style wood-fired pizza oven, are worth which needs a coating of molten chocolate > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm; 6-10pm, see Bistro Theonet 先农大院内 (022 5835 2870) every fen. to melt it away, revealing a rich brownie listings (022 5835 2555, 022 8713 5555) > Tue-Sun 11.30am-2pm; 5.30pm-9pm, 47 Changde inside. Top it all off with a bottle of vintage The Victoria Lounge at the Astor Hotel** Road, Heping 和平区常德道47号 (022 5805 3255) claret from the wine list. RIVIERA, The St. Regis Tianjin** For as little as RMB98 guests can indulge > 11am-2pm, 5pm-9:30pm, 2 Chengde Dao, Heping 和 While one could enjoy Riviera's con- themselves with the hotel’s luxurious Lao Feng Ge Pin Zhen Xuan (Shanghai) 平区常德道2号 (022 2332 9966) temporary Mediterranean cuisine in the Afternoon Tea set. Beginning – as tradition ¥ M surrounds of the art nouveau-inspired dictates – at 2:00pm and ending at 5:00pm, This Shanghai chain, with seven down Mighty Deli ground-floor bistro, we suggest that, the hotel’s high tea features a variety of south, just opened its first in TJ. Occupying Much as we love sampling the many and weather permitting, you sit out on the delicious cakes, scones, jam, cream, straw- a corner in the British Concession, the varied epicurean delights that Asia has terrace overlooking the river. Lamb with berries, finger sandwiches and sweet fruits. restaurant fits right in the area’s vibe. In to offer, sometimes we just need a taste couscous and lime soy sauce (RMB138) is a The tea is excellent too, and come served the three-story mansion, 10 dining rooms of home. Mighty Deli is one of the best fusion standout. in a steaming bone-china pot. It’s all very (each with bathroom) can handle 4 to 20 stocked imported food stores in town, so > 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-10pm; The St. Regis Tianjin, Downton Abbey, and a great place to take people. The food is carefully prepared for that particular bar of chocolate, spread 158 Zhang Zizhong Lu, Heping 和平区张自忠路号 visiting friends. and cooked: we recommend the longjing for your bread or pasta sauce, this is prob- (022 5830 9962) > Daily 2-5pm, 33 Taierzhuang Lu, Heping 和平区台 shrimps (RMB118). Service also gets the ably the place to check out. 儿庄路33号天津利顺德大饭店豪华精选酒店1层 thumb-up: the staff makes you feel sin- > Daily, Opposite Nancuiping Park, 1F Longbin Yuan, SALSA PUBLIC HOUSE * * (020 2331 1688) cerely welcomed. There is something Dali-esque about the > Daily 11am-1pm, 5-9pm, 9 Hunan Lu, Xian Nong 85-87 Water Park Road West, Nankai 南开区水上公 园西路85-87号龙滨园底商(翠屏公园对面) (022 oddball ornamentation and upside-down Wei Ding Xuan (Chinese) * M ¥¥ Square, Heping 和平区湖南路9号先农大院 (022 8783 9683) chairs hanging from a high, wood-panelled Once the residence of the fourth wife 5835 2837; www.laofengge.com) ceiling. The menu should hold something of Nationalist-period warlord Cao Kun, Nanshi Food Street (Chinese) M for most taste buds, including steaks (from it is now one of the top-notch Chinese Lao Yiren Canguan 老艺人餐馆, (Tianjin) RMB58), delicately balanced pan-fried lamb restaurants. Move over, Pepsi: the black rice * M Less a street, more a two-storey complex bursting with every local delicacy that Tian- chops (RMB138) and the unique flavor juice (RMB180 per jar) is probably the best Don’t let the wavy walls or slanted ceil- combination of prawns and pineapple in a soft drink you’ll try – healthy and delicious. ings fool you – there’s nothing crooked jin has to offer, this is a good place to come if you are feeling adventurous. There’s not creamy wasabi "special" sauce (RMB98 and Tasty eating plus history – what more can about this funky little mom-and-pop not for the faint-of-tongue). one ask? standby, serving family-style food made by much English signage, and don’t expect > Heping: 11am-2am; 36 Xikang Lu, Heping西康路36 > 36 Chengxiang Zhong Lu, Gulou Bei Lu (west of the traditional musicians (the name translates any vendors to speak it, so every bite is a 号(近岳阳道中国银行旁) (022 8712 5158) North Gate) ,Nankai 南开区城厢中路鼓楼北街36号 as Old Artists Diner). The menu offers no bit of a lottery. Most famous here is mahua 鼓楼北门西侧 (022 2728 0123) surprises, just wholesome, local fare at (fried dough sticks sweetened with a red- bean paste filling), chatang (a sugary millet- Nankai: 11am-2am; 7 Colorful Village 2nd Floor, Nankai reasonable prices (the shao san si, RMB21, 奥城彩柒汇生活广场2楼 (022 6077 8011) Xi Hua Xuan (Chinese)** M ¥ tastes better than it looks). And expect a flour soup served from a huge copper pot) and the local hero: egg-pancake jian bing. The best place to sip the more infamous ‘family sized’ portion of culture, such as Sha Guo Li (Chinese) Chinese ‘herb wines’ – all kinds of them. > Daily, times vary, Shenyi Lu, Heping 和平区慎益大 the owner’s granddaughter belting out a Tianjin residents flock to this local hero – Pay around RMB200 a head and let the 街和平区 bit of Peking Opera as you dine. even more so in the last six months so it’s chef serve whatever’s prepared – on our > 69 Duolun Road (at the intersection with Hebei Nha Trang (Vietnamese) M opened a huge new chain in the luxurious visit, this included roasted spicy fish and Road), Heping 和平区多伦道69号(河北路口), (022 Galaxy Mall. This family favorite restaurant, (unfortunately) shark’s fin soup, with differ- 2730 9406) Vietnamese is growing more popular here thanks to familiar ingredients with an known for its dependable Tianjin staples, ent kinds of baijiu: seahorse and deer penis exotic twist. Nha Trang offers a fast-food might seem a little out of place next to infusions being fairly typical, tasty varieties. Laya Burger (American) M shops for imported French bags and Italian The owner can also tell the story behind In one of the city’s most popular malls, a vibe with quality ingredients, for people on the go. Try cha gio (pork-and-shrimp leather shoes – but credit to the owners every object in the room. Taiwanese-owned joint serves American where it’s due. Don't miss the signature > Daily 4:30pm-10pm, 1 Cheng Xing Li, Si Ping Dong burgers and onion rings, in an atmosphere spring rolls, RMB38) or grilled beef salad pork belly (li jia da pai) Dao (at the cross of Gan Su Lu), Heping 和平区四平东 that resembles Betsy Ross’s (RMB38). With a cup of Vietnamese milk > Galaxy Mall branch: 4F Galaxy Mall, 9 Leyuan Dao, 道成兴里1号与甘肃路交口 (022 2730 7878) superego. If you expect an authentic Amer- tea (RMB18), you are good to ‘pho’ (sliced beef and brisket soup, RMB35). Hexi 河西区乐园道9号银河国际购物中心4楼 (022 ican taste, you may be a bit disappointed. 8388 9139); Jiu Jian Lu branch: 46 Jiujiang Lu, Hexi 河 Xinjiang Fengwei Canting (Xinjiang) M The beef is OK, but the sets just average. > Daily 12pm-4pm, 5:30pm-9:30pm, Shop 002-02, 5F, Galaxy Mall, No.9 Leyuan Rd, Hexi 河西区乐园道9号 西区九江路46号 (2326 0075); Huafu Plaza branch: This Xinjiang restaurant is run by the Still, there is always a long line. 1/F Huafu Plaza Zhujiang Dao, Hexi 河西区珠江道华 state-owned Xinjiang Production and > Daily 10am-9pm, 9 Leyuan Rd, Galaxy Shopping Mall, 银河国际购物中心5楼002-02铺 (022 8388 7666, 022 8388 7555; www.nhatrang.cn) 夏津典底商 (8838 8900) Construction Corps, so authenticity is high, 5th Floor, Hexi 河西区乐园道九号银河国际购物中 and service poor. Locals are willing to come 心5楼 (022 8388 9366) Pattaya (Thai) * ¥ Shanghai Time (Chinese) M ¥ just for its big plate chicken (braised with Still one of the most popular destinations potato and peppers, RMB68), and hongliu Le Loft (Fusion) * ¥ There is little of the seedy resort from despite its age, Shanghai Time serves Mutton chuan’r (RMB12 each). Come early; Innovative cuisine designed to meet local which it takes its name at this Thai classic classic dishes from stir-fried eel with hot there is always a line. people's taste, the restaurant functions surrounded by Western-style restaurants. oil (RMB56), grandma pork braised in > Daily 11am-2pm; 5pm-10pm, 1st Floor of Junken also as a bar after dinner time, with free Dishes like Tom Yum Kung Soup (RMB58), brown sauce (RMB48) to crab powder balls Hotel, No.21 Huaxing Dao (behind Tiajin Train Station), drinks for single ladies every Friday after Pad Thai (RMB38) and drinks like Teh Tarik (RMB19) and, of course, fried buns. The Hedong 21 1 9:30pm. (RMB18) all taste authentic. The curries, 河东区华兴道 号军垦宾馆 楼近天津站 decor recalls Old Shanghai with posters (022 2432 9998) > Daily 11:30am-2:00am, 4 Jin Song Li (close to Jinzhou green and red, are popular while service is 后广场 above average, especially when the wait- of beautiful 1930s actresses, and modern Road), Nanjing Road, Heping 和平区南京路劲松里4 touches to ensure a delightful environ- Yihe Yayuan 号 (近锦州道), (022 2723 9363) resses greet you with a sweet “Sawadika.” > Daily 10am-10pm, 33 Shengli Lu, Italian Style Street, ment. (Peking Duck) * M ¥ Qing surroundings beget an imperial style: Lüse Zhuang Yuan (Korean) M Hebei 河北区意式风情街胜利路33号(022 2445 > Daily 11am-10pm, No.20 Hubei Road, Heping 和平区 the exquisite roast duck set (RMB198) is a One of the oldest – and cheapest – Korean 8789) g湖北路20号 (022 2313 6667) must, as is the famous lion’s head meatball chains in the city (Green Manor in English). Shaoshuai Fu (Chinese) * M ¥¥ (RMB18), stone plate eggplant (RMB38), The owner adopts style as well as content: Peng Tian Ge (Chinese) * M ¥ In a busy downtown area, this Baroque cheese tofu (RMB38) and the ever-popular Once you sit down, 10 appetizers show up Upscale seafood restaurant providing a variety of typically Chinese delicacies, building was home to the beloved General kung pao chicken (RMB48). automatically, including kimchi and pump- Zhang Xueliang and wife Zhao Si, so you > Daily 11am-2pm, 5.10pm-9pm, L3-052 Galaxy Mall, 9 kin porridge. These will probably leave you from bullfrog to Australian abalone and can find yourself eating in his converted Leyuan Rd, Hexi河西区乐园道9号银河国际购物中 half-full before you’ve ordered (pro tip: even esoteric rarities like scorpion. With its grand, Bond-villain decorations (small study. High as prices are, Shaoshuai’s 心3楼L3-052号 (022 8388 7926, 020 8388 7928) you can refill any two during the meal). Go individual serving system guarantees the for the grill or sizzling bibimbab – rice in a sharks swim in tanks, and you can even touch the sea turtle) and cozy atmosphere, best service. But do make a reservation be- YY Beer House 粤园 (Thai) * ¥ stone bowl. cause there are only four tables. A Chiang Don’t be fooled by the name – YY is less > Daily 10am-10pm, 108 Nanjing Road, Isetan 8th Floor, it can be a great choice for family reunions and business dinners. Service is great too. Kai-shek lookalike often comes and talks a house of beer (though it has many) as a Heping 和平区南京路108号伊势丹8楼 (营口道口), about the history (which is kind of weird: it brilliant restaurant. The chef insists on the (022 2718 8513) > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-9pm, 8 Hong Qi Nan Lu, Li Qi Zhuang, Hexi 河西区李七庄红旗南路8号近快速路 wasn’t even Chiang’s house, after all.) freshest ingredients, which explains why (022 2395 8888) > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-9pm, 78 Chifeng Dao (at the this classic eatery, almost hidden among Marugame Seimen (丸龟制面) (Japanese) M crossing of Shandong Road), Heping 和平区赤峰道78 the skyscrapers, has been around all this The udon noodles are simple food, but to 号山东路口 (022 8789 6106) time. Better make a reservation, especially make them tasty is no easy job. Thanks to Pizza Bianca (Italian) * ¥ There is always a line outside come dinner at dinner, because this small diner is always Marugame Seimen, Tianjin now has a place Someday (Cafe/Teahouse) M crowded (both by customers and its decora- to enjoy the slippery udon (RMB15-30) and time, and a good reason for the wait: the food is not only damn good, especially the Bespectacled guimi (girly BFFs) and ‘cute’ tions, of which quite a few are antiques). tampura (RMB6-10). Usually crowded at couples kill time with British tea (RMB38) > Daily 11:30am-10pm, 3 Aomen (Macau) Lu, Heping 和 lunch, the line outside moves pretty fast, pizza (RMB59-89), tiramisu (RMB39) and Mövenpick ice cream, it is fairly priced. or cranberry mocha (RMB38) while wait- 平区澳门路3号洛阳道口 (022 2339 9634) because you order in line and pay at the ing for waffles (plus ice cream, RMB48). other end, then grab a table to enjoy the Though the pizza may not taste as wonder- ful as one from a wood-fired oven, it is Combos can be cheaper, and if you add noodles and rich-flavored soup. them on WeChat, you get discounts. The > Daily 10:30am-8:30pm, 108, Nanjing Road, B2, ISETAN good enough. Due to the constant crowd, you need to be extra patient during rush only downside is that it doesn’t serve Mall, Heping 和平区南京路108号现代城C区伊势丹 proper meals.

20 July/August 2016