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Cultures of Food and Gastronomy in Mughal and Post-Mughal India

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Cultures of Food and Gastronomy in Mughal and Post-Mughal India Cultures of Food and Gastronomy in Mughal and post-Mughal India Inauguraldissertation zur Erlangung der Doktorwürde der Philosophischen Fakultät der Ruprecht-Karls-Universität Heidelberg vorgelegt von: Divya Narayanan Erstgutachterin: Prof. Dr. Gita Dharampal-Frick Zweitgutachter: Prof. Dr. Hans Harder Heidelberg, Januar 2015 Contents Acknowledgements............................................................................................... iii Abbreviations…………………………………………………………………… v Note on Transliteration………………………………………………………… vi List of Figures, Maps, Illustrations and Tables……………………………….. vii Introduction........................................................................................................... 2 Historiography: guiding lights and gaping holes………………………………… 3 Sources and methodologies………………………………………………………. 6 General background: geography, agriculture and diet…………………………… 11 Food in a cross-cultural and transcultural context………………………………...16 Themes and questions in this dissertation: chapter-wise exposition………………19 Chapter 1: The Emperor’s Table: Food, Culture and Power………………... 21 Introduction………………………………………………………………………. 21 Food, gender and space: articulations of imperial power………………………... 22 Food and the Mughal cityscape………………………………………………...... 35 Gift-giving and the political symbolism of food………………………………… 46 Food, ideology and the state: the Mughal Empire in cross-cultural context……...53 Conclusion………………………………………………………………………...57 Chapter 2: A Culture of Connoisseurship……………………………………...61 Introduction………………………………………………………………………. 61 Cuisine and connoisseurship in Indo-Persian culture……………………………. 61 Indo-Persian cookbooks: an analytical survey…………………………………… 72 Gendered food discourses………………………………………………………… 93 Conclusion………………………………………………………………………... 96 Chapter 3: Cuisine and the Lives of Recipes....................................................... 98 Introduction……………………………………………………………………….. 98 Analysing cuisine: structuralism and beyond……………………………………... 99 Menus, techniques and tools: meals explored……………………………………. 103 (I) Tracing recipes: from the bazaar to the imperial kitchen…………….. 103 (II) Recipes in Indo-Persian cookbooks……………………………………106 New entrants, cultural interactions………………………………………………....116 Conclusion……………………………………………………………………….....136 Chapter 4: Food and Medicine…………………………………………………. 138 Introduction……………………………………………………………………….. 138 The menu of medical and dietetic traditions……………………………………… 139 Cookbooks and medical treatises: blurred boundaries?……....................................143 Indo-Persian dietetic and pharmacological texts: a survey……………………….. 144 i Food as medicine: excavating concepts and taxonomies………………………….. 157 Food, medicine and dietetics: social and institutional contexts…………………… 163 Conclusion…………………………………………………………………………. 169 Chapter 5: Wine in the Mughal World………………………………………….. 172 Introduction………………………………………………………………………… 172 Wine in the Islamic and Indo-Persian ecumenes………………………………….... 174 Wine and medicine…………………………………………………………………. 179 Wine as substance and symbol in the Mughal Empire……………………………... 187 Conclusion………………………………………………………………………….. 208 Conclusion…………………………………………………………………………. 211 Glossary – I (arranged according to category)…………………………………... 219 Glossary – II (single alphabetical list)……………………………………………. 226 Bibliography……………………………………………………………………….. 233 ii Acknowledgements Over the course of my doctoral research during the past few years, I have accumulated many debts of gratitude. It is my pleasant duty to express my heartfelt thanks to all those who have helped my in various ways. My Doktormutter Prof. Dr. Gita Dharampal-Frick was both gracious and understanding on the one hand, and demanding of the highest standards of work on the other. She invested a lot of time and care in advising me, and her inputs were invaluable in helping me refine my arguments. My heartfelt gratitude is also due to Prof. Dr. Hans Harder, who very kindly agreed to act as my Second Examiner, despite his many commitments. His contribution to the academic life of the Südasien-Institut has been immense, and his enviable knowledge of South Asian literature as well as his intellectual enthusiasm is an inspiration to all of us. I particularly thank him for the suggestions he has made for the published version of my dissertation. My colleagues at the Südasien-Institut, University of Heidelberg were a constant source of support and constructive criticism. I am especially thankful to Rafael Klöber and Manju Ludwig for easing my transition to academic life in Heidelberg. Eleonor Marcussen, Felix Eickelbeck, Milinda Banerjee and Ankur Kakkar made my time at the History Department pleasant and academically stimulating. Borayin Larios very kindly read a Spanish reference for me. I am also grateful to Seyed Hossein Zarhani for reading and discussing one of my Persian texts with me, and especially for translating its Arabic phrases. I would also like to thank the staff of the University Library and the Südasien-Institut Library for their timely and efficient help in ensuring that I was able to get the books I needed during the crucial finishing stages of my dissertation. Thanks are also due to the staff of the following archives and libraries around the world, where I conducted research for my doctoral dissertation: National Archives of India (New Delhi), National Museum of India (New Delhi), Library of the Iran Culture House (New Delhi), Noor Microfilm Centre (New Delhi), Maulana Azad Library, Aligarh Muslim University (Aligarh), Rajasthan State Archives (Bikaner), Salar Jung Library (Hyderabad), Government Oriental Manuscript Library and Research Institute (Hyderabad), Bhandarkar Oriental Research Institute (Pune), British Library (London), Royal Asiatic Society Library iii (London), Bodleian Library (Oxford), Bibliothèque Nationale de France (Paris) and the Staatsbibliothek (Berlin). I would particularly like to thank Dr. Khwajeh-Piri, Director of the Noor Microfilm Centre for his generous opening of the Centre’s valuable resources. Mr. Majid Ahmady of the Iran Culture House, New Delhi directed me to some valuable sources. Mr. P. C. Joiya, Research Officer at the Rajasthan State Archives in Bikaner patiently gave me a crash course in the palaeography of some of the Archive’s Rajasthani manuscripts and helped me read them. Prof. B. L. Bhadani was very kind to welcome me and make arrangements for my stay at Aligarh. My cousin, Nikhil and his wife Tania were the most wonderful of hosts in London. Abhishek Kaicker, whom I met at the archives of Hyderabad and subsequently at Delhi, provided much intellectual stimulation and also shared some useful materials with me. My research and dissertation writing have been supported by the following grants and fellowships: the Summer Research Grant, Department of History, University of Virginia, the STIBET completion stipend at the University of Heidelberg and the stipend of the Research Council - Field of Focus 3 “Cultural Dynamics in Globalised Worlds”, also at Heidelberg. Thanks are also due to all those at my previous institutions who have helped and guided me. I am grateful to Prof. Richard Barnett for his support in numerous ways during my time at Virginia. My MPhil advisor Prof. Rajat Datta at JNU expertly guided my first forays into this research field. My MPhil external examiner, Dr. Abha Singh has also been generous with her time and valuable advice. I am especially grateful to Prof. Harbans Mukhia for his encouragement and intellectual guidance. My discussions with him have greatly enriched my knowledge and understanding of Mughal history. All my teachers at Lady Shri Ram College, the University of Delhi and Jawaharlal Nehru University have been instrumental in grooming me academically. I would particularly like to thank Mrs. Meera Baijal for her unstinting support and immense faith in my abilities. My family and friends have been a particular source of strength during the past few years. My neighbour Balaji advised me on various matters and tirelessly helped print documents and process visa applications for my research trips. Very affectionate and special thanks go to Prof. Vijaya Ramaswamy, who has been both an intellectual mentor and a loving aunt to me. Last but not the least, I must acknowledge my immense debt to my parents, who have stood by my through thick and thin. Without them I would not be where I am. iv Abbreviations Libraries and Archives APGOML: Andhra Pradesh Government Oriental Manuscript Library and Research Centre, Hyderabad, India (This library now falls under the jurisdiction of the newly created state of Telangana. The fate of its collections is currently not known). BL: British Library BNF: Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Paris Bodl.: Bodleian Library, University of Oxford, Oxford IO: India Office (Part of the British Library’s manuscript collections) NAI: National Archives of India, New Delhi NMC: Noor Microfilm Centre, New Delhi NMI: National Museum of India, New Delhi RAS: Royal Asiatic Society, London SJML: Salar Jung Museum Library, Hyderabad, India SBB: Staatsbibliothek, Berlin Etymology Ar.: Word of Arabic origin Hin. / Urd.: Word of Hindi or Urdu origin (transliteration usually follows the Perso-Arabic- Urdu script) Pers.: Word of Persian origin Sans.: Word of Sanskrit origin Tur.: Word of Turkish origin v Note on Transliteration The transliteration of Persian words follows the system used by Francis Joseph Steingass, A Comprehensive Persian-English Dictionary, Including the Arabic Words and Phrases to be
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