Sister Act Breathe New Life Into Old Brewery Ice Cycling Attracts Tourists and Locals Alike Shopping, Food and Activities Guides

2017 • No. 1

SagaDANCES TO HER OWN TUNE

SISTER ACT BREATHE NEW LIFE INTO OLD BREWERY ICE CYCLING ATTRACTS TOURISTS AND LOCALS ALIKE SHOPPING, FOOD AND ACTIVITIES GUIDES

❤ THE MAGAZINE WHICH LETS YOU DISCOVER LULEÅ EDITORIAL

Progress starts with equality

moved to Luleå 16 years ago. In this time I’ve been Luleå also has a strong sporting profile, rating fourth nation- lucky enough to work at a number of municipalities in wide when its citizens were asked about recreational activities. Norrbotten, but I’ve always lived in Luleå. I feel at home Our ladies lead the way in the highest leagues of ice hockey here. Before moving here I lived in Stockholm for seven and basketball, each securing national titles last year – a great achievement. Our men are close behind, which in some way is Iyears. I was born and raised in Kisa, a small town in Östergöt- a good reflection of Luleå’s development. From having been a land, so I’m among those who chose to move to Luleå. male-dominated steel city, today there are lots of women established in key positions of power. Many of the city’s foremost The city has certainly lived up to the expectations I had when I representatives are female. The municipality’s chief politician is came here. With its broad mix of people, the choice of a big city called Yvonne Stålnacke, and its management group is entirely and the convenience of a small town, Luleå has so much to offer. gender equal. The key to success starts with a commitment to equality. In the municipal group, work is now fully under way on Things are going well for Luleå, and it’s exciting and stimulating gender mainstreaming all municipal services. Along with the to be municipal chief executive for a city on the march. I live in integration of newly arrived migrants, this is one of the most the city centre, and you can see new restaurants opening all the important reasons for our success. time which are quickly filled to the rafters. In just a few years,

Luleå has gone from offering pizza and beer to Indian cuisine, People want to live in a city where new ideas meet; where they Italian food and Spanish tapas. can feel at home and flourish. Growth here is strong: we have a successful university, unemployment is lower than in the rest Kulturens hus celebrated its 10th birthday in January. Over this of Sweden, more housing is being built than time it has become an essential calling point for cultural at- for quite some time and population growth tractions touring the country, from both Sweden and overseas. is strong, but stable. Last year, the Events usually sell out quickly, so it pays to order tickets as soon population of Luleå grew by 600. as they’re released. Luleå likes culture, something underlined by Statistics Sweden’s annual citizens survey, among other things, A warm welcome to our city! in which the city finished in eight place among the 290 municipalities asked how satisfied their citizens were with the choice of arts and culture. MIKAEL LEKFALK Chief Executive Officer Luleå City CONTRIBUTORS

Mariana Vnuk Britt-Marie Tomas Bergman writer Rauman Krohn photographer writer

In this issue you’ve met If there’s anyone who Fishing, boating and written about a range enjoys wearing out Luleå’s and hunting are close of interesting people. Who running tracks, it’s B-M. to Tomas’ heart. were your role models In your opinion, what’s the Where is your favourite growing up in Luleå? nicest route? local gem?

“I suppose I tried to find somewhere I belonged, “I love running along the water in Luleå. There’s a “Our fishing cabin on Gråsjälgrundet. Bådan, as it’s and fitted in. It guess it took a while. My role model great route starting at Mjölkuddsbanken, passing known, is part of a nature reserve in the outer was – and still is – my big sister Anna.” Norra hamn, going around Gültzauudden and on to archipelago. It has fantastic bird life and is known Varvet and Södra hamn.” as a good fishing area.”

original luleå story

writers: mariana vnuk, britt-marie rauman krohn, ronny olovsson, johan håkansson. graphic designer: peter kemi. photographers: tomas bergman, fredrik broman, susanne lindholm, simon wanler, daniel holmgren, jacob nilsson, patrik öhman. production: luleå municipality and vinter communications agency. printed by: v-tab. publisher: the communications office at luleå municipality, [email protected].

2 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY CONTENTS

10 COLUMN 5 11 Mariana Vnuk on why Luleå will always be in her heart.

12 FULL SPEED AHEAD Norrbotten’s largest fun park takes form.

13 WORLD HERITAGE SITE HOSTS VR ADVENTURE History and technology meet in major new ven 16 ture.

SISTERS STARTING SÖDRA STRAND UNDER KUSTSTAD BRINGS 22 COLUMN A NEW KIND OF MALL COVER OF WINTER JIMMY BACK HOME Johan Håkansson on why the girls are best at putting Sister act Paula and Lisa breathe The summer’s most popular spot Former resident on the pulling Luleå on the map. life into the old brewery. opens for winter. power of his home town. 28 CREATIVE MEETING PLACE 23 NMW attracts guests from Sweden and over seas.

30 FROM LULEÅ TO THE WORLD Travelling to and from Luleå is easy.

36 GENERATION Z MAKE THEIR MARK JA Sweden entrepreneurs have their eyes on the prize.

20 48 38 DANIEL’S NEW PASSION DOCUMENTARY DETAILS FATBIKE PIONEER WITH AT BYSTIG YOU WILL Raised Fist guitarist has LEADING LADIES A SOFT SPOT FOR SNOW DO AS YOU ARE his camera at the ready. Ingela hot on the heels of Luleå Olov on fatbikes, ice adventures Bystigt’s Li grew tired of fitting Hockey’s ladies. and loving winter. room fluster. 40 JACOB CAPTURES THE BEAUTY OF LULEÅ The Luleå Way creator’s 32 34 42 very own photographs.

44 CULTURE VULTURE Fredrika Johansson calls the tune at Ebeneser.

45 CULINARY EXPEDITION Celebrity chef Johan Tingvall on the new concept of Live Cooking.

46 TASTE OF ITALY Restaurang Bergströmska is the latest addition to the restaurant scene. DANCING TO HER DEVOTED TO EXCHANGE STUDENT OWN BEAT HELPING KIDS SEIZES THE DAY 50 LULEÅ ON ICE 17-year-old Saga combines art, Anna and her family are making Germany’s Lutz on darkness, the Find the most exciting voguing and music. a difference for young people archipelago and fika! winter activities. in Luleå.

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 3 NEWS

A small card with big appeal Cabin life all year round Don’t miss out on the Luleå Curious about the City Card. Use the card to years archipelago? The make purchases from a num- municipality rents ber of stores, restaurants, 10Exactly 10 years ago this January, Kulturens hus out 12 cabins in Luleå cafés, hair stylists and hotels arts centre opened its doors for the very first Archipelago all year in central Luleå. You can charge the card and time. Since then, it has been visited by almost six round, summer and make purchases for however much you like at million people. The venue has also played host winter. There are terminals in Smedjan, Shopping and Strand. to 3,000 cultural events, 6,000 conferences and three cabins on Kluntarna, two on Junkön, From November to December last year alone, 220 art exhibitions. 2.3 million books have been five on Brändöskär and two on Småskär. almost SEK two million was charged to Luleå borrowed here and almost 300,000 people have For booking and to get more information, City Cards. visited the Luleå Tourist Office. Happy birthday! visit the Luleå Tourist Office. Zuckerberg Luleå At the end of September last year, Mark Zuckerberg, one of the founders of Facebook, put Luleå on the map. Using his private Facebook page, he described the data centres in northern Sweden as a “central part of our global infra- structure”. In just three hours, the post had been liked by 66,000 people and shared by just over 5,500.

Facebook’s decision to build its first European data centre in Luleå back in 2011 was the result of an TOP OF exhaustive process which concluded that the city offered the best overall solution: a climate suitable for natural cooling, access to renew- THE able energy, a reliable electricity network, good land, well-qualified labour and committed, skilled local LEAGUE enterprise. The hashtag #luleåvinner lets Luleå’s Annie Lööf, Sweden’s Minister for Municipality, elite sports clubs and Enterprise at the time, declared tourist enterprises cheer each other Luleå and Norrbotten Europe’s on towards new successes. foremost region for locating server facilities, while Matz Engman, CEO The happy fact is that many of Luleå’s at Luleå Business & Economic teams are in the highest possible di- Development, called it the historical visions. Luleå Hockey, Luleå Hockey/ dawn of a new digital industrial era. MSSK, Luleå Basket and BC Luleå have achieved major sporting success. Zuckerberg’s post was eventually Luleå is a passionate sporting city liked by just over 201,000 people, with the best fans in Sweden, especial- shared by over 20,000 and com- ly when it comes to women’s sport. mented on by nearly 8,000. He end- ed by pointing out that his followers Luleå Hockey’s ladies currently hold probably hadn’t been thinking about the SDHL attendance record, drawing Luleå when sharing posts with their 3,150 fans to a match against Modo in Mark Zuckerberg, one of the founders of Facebook. friends. But they were now. ❖ October last year. ❖

4 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY PORTRAIT Creative duo make their mark With a proud tradition of enterprise in the family and a burning passion for Luleå, sister act Paula Fahlander and Lisa Liljedahl are combining their creative talents to create Bryggeriet Luleå, a type of mall and second home filled with local artists and craftsmen.

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 5 PORTRAIT

Here you’ll find food, art, clothing, beauty, a tattoo studio, life skills and music.

he sisters Paula Fahlander and Lisa Liljedahl are the very definition of creativity. For over 20 years they’ve been Tcutting, decorating and generally making Luleå a more colourful place to be. Paula launched her own brand, Re-cover, in 1994. Ever since, she’s been creating clothing made from sustainable natural materials such as leather, suede, wool and denim, drawing influence from the American west and the spirit of Norrbotten. For her part, as a multi-faceted artist, Lisa has always worked with colour and shape, not least while running her popular hair salon, Killerqueen, from 2007 to 2014.

The pair have always inspired and motivated each other, but this is the first time they’ve collaborated on a major project. In the over 100-year-old brewery, which towers grandly as you approach Luleå via Bergnäs bridge, Paula and Lisa are developing a new type of mall to be filled with local artists and craftsmen. “We want the whole site to breathe creativity, and we’ve gathered a group of highly innovative people under one roof. Many of our family and friends work in creative fields, and we’ve been talking about the idea of a joint venue for many years. We’re all fairly isolated, and I think there’s a need to be around other creative types to be inspired by. And we’re

We want to create an exciting arena which will give Luleå something new.

6 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY PORTRAIT

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 7 PORTRAIT

But this is a brand new challenge, a new career and a step up on the creative ladder. I hope and believe that Luleå will open its heart to art and culture. It seems that way; people here look after their own.”

Both Paula and Lisa grew up with a proud spirit of invention and enterprise in close quarters. “We had a really creative upbringing. Our mother was unbelievably multi-skilled; a day never passed without us creating or designing something,” they recall. “Not only that, it definitely also helped to have a father who developed his own ideas and solutions throughout his life. He showed that you can plant a little seed and watch it grow into something really big. And that it pays to focus on what you’re good at, and work on that.”

What’s the enterprise climate like in Luleå? all really passionate about what we do, want guests to come as they are and “Open and inviting. At least that’s what which is important,” they explain. enjoy an authentic, relaxing setting. It’s I think. There are lots of active networks “Here you’ll find food, art, clothing, beau- very Norrbotten.” and good organisations which provide ty, a tattoo studio, life skills and music. help. That said, Luleå sometimes feels a We’ll be offering events, performances, The companies and people moving into little small in the field we work in, which exhibitions, workshops, conferences Bryggeriet Luleå include Barberdoll is why we’ll be inviting other guests, both and much more. The aim is to create a (Jannice Tiger), Creation of Swedish from Sweden and overseas, to visit us second home, and make people want to Lapland (Katrin Grönlund), Re-cover and our fine city.” stay here for a long time.” (Paula Fahlander, Lena Lindfors), The North Tattoos (Tomas Liljedahl, John What are your hopes for Those who know Luleå well probably Engfors, Anton Fahlander) and art studio Bryggeriet Luleå? remember the old brewery as a restau- (Lisa Liljedahl among others). A whole “Naturally, we hope people will be curi- rant and nightclub, a much visited venue lot, in other words, and proof there’s no ous and pleased this beautiful building during the 1990s. need for creative people to leave the city. has been brought to life. Due to its “I think I only went there once when it Paula and Lisa both agree that Luleå location, we think it’ll be perfect in the was a nightclub. I remember that they has helped and challenged them to be summer, with the open-air terrace, and we’re playing Lady in Red, and I was creative. in the winter, maybe as a stop up from wearing a red top, so I felt a bit singled “Creativity itself has always been in our the ice road. The venue will be beautiful, out!” Paula laughs. blood, but Luleå has a rich tradition of perfect for different events, and we’re “I have loads of memories of the place. heavy industry and engineering, which, really excited about the network we’ve Unlike Paula I was a big disco fan, out while offering security and forming a created,” Paula says. all the time. People danced on the bar key part of our history, can also make it “Take the restaurant, for example. and perfume was handed out to guests, difficult for creativity to find its rightful They’re creating a place which is good but I was mostly on the dancefloor!” place. It’s not always been easy to gain for the body and soul and also bene- Lisa recalls. exposure and achieve success, but fits the region. Through partnerships there’s been a lot of progress in the last with local producers, their menus will For some months, the old nightclub – and few years, and that’s what we want to feature dishes made from locally sourced large layers of the 1990s – has been taken build on. We want to create an exciting ingredients. We hope and believe it’ll be apart. Paula’s and Lisa’s aim is to recreate arena which will give Luleå something a boost for those of us working here and the original spirit of the building. new,” says Paula and Lisa agrees. provide warmth, love and inspiration for “Under all those layers, it’s so beautiful. “It’s really exciting. I always felt confident our guests.” ❖ Raw materials. We’ve added a big dollop as a hairdresser – I had a big clientèle

of our own creativity, creating a rural, who liked the way I worked. I guess it was Bryggeriet Luleå will open its doors rock’n’roll feeling with high quality. We good for the ego, and I felt really secure. in spring 2017.

8 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY PORTRAIT

Name: Paula Fahlander. Age: 46. Lives: In Alvik. Family: Husband, Pär, and kids, Anton, 24, and Minna, 14. Naturally, we hope people And a cat and dog. will be curious and pleased Works as: Entrepreneur and designer with her own brand, Re-cover. this beautiful building has Really enjoys: Hard exercise, riding my been brought to life. motorcycle and eating good food. Inspired by: The materials I find and use to create things, as well as what I do, like exercising, hunting, riding my bike and enjoying nature. Best thing about Luleå: A beautiful city during all four seasons, and everything you need is close at hand. Local gem: Home on the estate. LISA ON PAULA: Paula is my rock, and someone I’ve always looked up to. She’s calm, clever and good natured to the core. She’s the opposite to me in that she’s got her feet firmly on the ground. She’s down to earth, and someone you can turn to. I really admire how hard she’s worked, and continues working, with her brand. It’s unique, and shows how close Norrbotten is to her heart, and how important it is to preserve this.

Name: Lisa Liljedahl. Age: 41. Lives: In lovely Svartöstan. Family: Husband, Tomas, 42, and kids Lova and Dennis, both 18, and Vilda, 11. Two dogs and three cats. Works as: A designer and image consultant while also attending a voca- tional art course in Sunderbyn. Really enjoys: Art and creation, animals, cooking good food, exercise and travel. Inspired by: Colours appearing everywhere; at home, in nature, in the city. Dreams, friends and naturally, other intriguing artists, street artists in particular. Best thing about Luleå: The feeling of security. After two years in Los Angeles, this is definitely what I value most. I also love the coastal location and stunning archipelago. Local gem: Gäddvik gives me room to breathe. Our little 35 square metre cabin, the meadows and the forest road down to the shore. PAULA ON LISA: A person with a big, warm heart. She has an incredible artis- tic creativity and can see the potential for colours, shapes and expressions like no one I know. Lisa is curious, and unlike me, she’s not afraid of the un- known. She likes trying out new trends and crazy ideas. She inspires me to push the boundaries. Lisa is someone who thinks about all her friends and is always there if you need her. Along with many others, I need Lisa. She’s the coolest there is.

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 9 COLUMN

MarianaCOPYWRITER, JOURNALIST ANDVnuk FEMINIST.

It’s fair to say not every 14-year-old loves their home town, but for Mariana Vnuk, there was never any doubt. A city can fall behind and then rise again.

I’m the black sheep of the family. That’s not just my But I’m not going to glorify the city all day long. own feeling, but an accepted psychological fact. If Luleå had stayed the way it was 15 years ago, Of three siblings, I’m the one that stayed here and it wouldn’t have worked out. It would have been for a short, intense period, I saw this as a failure. difficult to be, to become ... me. Sure, it took a While one danced off – literally – as quick as she while for me to find my place, but suddenly I felt could, the other is flying around the world. And like I belonged. here I am. Kulturens hus was built, and now there were music and performing arts right around the corner. The But I’ll happily admit I went on an even longer city started to value the importance of promoting journey. I spent six months in jail in the capital. equality, and a gay club and pride festival were Ok, so it wasn’t a real jail; but that’s how it felt. introduced. Even a roller derby team started up! While studying a course at university I found Throw in all the great shopping, new restaurants, myself counting down to the day I could take the hotels ... well okay, you get my drift! flight back home again. I think all these things give more people the confi- When growing up in Luleå, I sometimes felt like dence to choose their own path; to take the plunge, the loneliest person in the world. I was ugly, out feel their way and make their dreams come true. of place, and there was no one – no one – like This makes Luleå a great city in which to grow up, me. I remember running up and down the Hertsö develop and find your true self. ❖ hills feeling lost, like I was trying to escape from something. But this sense of aimlessness was within me. Luleå gave me total security, and would catch up with the person I’d become later on.

10 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY NEWS

Södra Strand under the cover of winter The palm trees have become pines and the sand has turned to ice. Summer favourite Södra Strand has been given a winter makeover. “The whole concept is 100 times better than we could have imagined,” says Johanna Grimståhl, the driving force behind the idea and project manager at Meramedia.

he idea of a meeting place for all on their school holidays sold tea and coffee ages in the heart of Luleå was born from the small huts on the site, and Spor- in Stockholm back in 2007. While out toteket rented out sports equipment like balls, and about in Årstaviken, Johanna skateboards and inlines. TGrimståhl stumbled upon Rhodos, a café based “We didn’t really know what to expect, but in a caravan, and liked what she saw. it quickly became a success and a natural meet- “Every time I passed by the café I thought, yeah, ing place,” recalls Johanna. we should have something like that in Luleå. It was a special feeling which I just couldn’t shake For the second year, we managed to link up off, and something which was lacking in Luleå.” with Fotografiska’s Ikoner (Icons) exhibition, and it now became clear that the public wanted When she moved back home in 2011, however, the venue to be there all year round. the dream of creating a meeting place was Södra Vinterstrand was opened on the third still there. Sunday of Advent, 2016. Meanwhile, at Luleå Municipality, the municipal “Last winter, an ice castle was built there for gardener Michael Öhman had a vision of an the first time, but the surroundings were lack- inner city beach in his area. ing. Södra Vinterstrand is the perfect site, and “When the old harbour building in Södra hamn alongside the ice track, boosts Luleå’s profile as was pulled down, we started looking at how a winter city,” says Johanna. we could use this empty space. We looked at a photograph from Toronto, where a similar area During the winter, activities run by local busi- had been redeveloped into a place called Sugar nesses and clubs/associations will be held at beach, and it made us think,” says Michael. Södra Vinterstrand. Visitors can rent skates and skis, among other So when Johanna Grimståhl, from Meramedia, things, from the Sportoteket cabin, while the got in touch with the City Planning Adminis- café serves hot drinks and sausages to barbecue tration to share her ideas, the Södra Strand over the open fires. concept emerged. Things got under way in “We hope to be able to add even more to the 2015. Part of the area was filled with sand, and site in future, and that Södra Strand and Södra volleyball nets, basketball baskets and table Vinterstrand can remain as a concept for the tennis tables added. There was even artificial area and centre, as well as a gateway to the grass, palm trees and sun chairs. Young people archipelago,” says Michael. ❖

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 11 NEWS

Action in Luleå ALCATRAZ Where? Notviksstan. What? Complete adventure centre spanning 8,000 square metres. Scheduled to open in summer 2017. How? Paintballing, go-karting, dodgem cars, laser games, adventure cells, restaurants and spa. alcatraz.nu

360 TRAMPOLINE CENTER Where? Storheden. What? Northern Sweden’s largest trampoline park, spanning 2,200 square metres. Opened in autumn 2016. Full speed ahead for Luleå How? Trampolines and spring- boards in different shapes and sizes. Dodgeball courts, foampit Luleå is a city on the move, at least if you consider all the activity and the world’s first halfpipes, an centres which have sprouted up over the last few years. attraction which lets you bounce between elastic walls. The latest addition is Alcatraz, Norrland’s largest adventure park. 360trampolinecenter.com

lcatraz, once one of the word’s choose what you want to do or we can help most high security prisons, is also put together packages for hen nights, stag the name of the vast adventure parties and so on,” says Benny. park which is taking shape at the Aentrance to Luleå city centre. But at the Luleå Construction is now in full swing at the site version, visitors are unlikely to want to leave on Spantgatan. An old steam locomotive has of their own free will. already been commandeered to be put in the LEO’S LEKLAND Spanning 10,000 square metres, the park will middle of the paintballing centre, built in the Where? Storheden. What? Spanning 4,000 square feature go-karting, paintballing, dodgem cars, 1930s style. And on the upper floor, there’ll metres, the largest and most laser games, ten-pin bowling and an amuse- be an amusement arcade with eight ten-pin popular amusement park chain ment arcade, not forgetting restaurants, a spa bowling alleys, pool tables, arcade games, in the Nordics. Opened in 2006. How? Slides, ball pools, sports and a gym. And that’s not all. simulators and Virtual Reality terminals. Four arena, trampolines and bikes for “There’ll be something for everyone. I guess restaurants, a 700 square metre spa including kids of all ages. you could say it’s like Leo’s Lekland play cen- a jacuzzi, sauna and an outdoor pool for the leoslekland.se tre for adults,” explains Benny Björnfot, site summer are also being constructed. manager at Alcatraz. “We’re also adding flea market cabinets, “We want to create a really big entertain- an idea which has become really popular in ment park, a crowd puller which draws people southern Sweden. These simply consist of to the area.” small and large cabinets which private individuals can rent and fill with items they want to Consisting of two floors, the building will also sell. You don’t have to be here in person, with be home to Prison Island, a 30-cell complex sales processed using an EAN code,” Benny PADEL365 Where? Skutviken. providing challenges at varying degrees of explains. What? 650 square metre Padel difficulty. Escape rooms – in which groups are “Alcatraz will provide a major boost to Luleå centre open 24 hours a day. tasked with solving complex problems – are and the whole of Norrbotten.” ❖ Opened in December 2015. How? Two Padel courts and a also planned, the perfect choice for kick-offs golf simulator. Unstaffed indoor or teambuilding activities for sporting teams, centre. Online booking. Includes for example. Behind Alcatraz are hotel entrepreneurs Stefan shower and sauna. Rackets for Karlsson and Mathias Eriksson, as well as Galären, hire. “Everyone is welcome here, including private who chose to redevelop the property. http://padel365.se individuals, companies and groups. You can It is scheduled to open in summer 2017.

12 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY FEATURE Anno 1500 is the world’s first historical VR experience Imagine, for one moment, suddenly stepping into a world 500 years back in time. Standing face to face with the wealthy Nils Andersson Kråka from Sunderbyn, or meeting Ragnhild Nilsson in a church cottage, whose husband has been banished to the stocks for breaching the sanctity of the church. Anno 1500 makes it all possible.

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 13 FEATURE

n the American feature film Back The idea of recreating an impression to the Future, Steven Spielberg of Gammelstad Church Town from propels the main character 30 500 years ago began to take shape. years back in time using a time Meanwhile, Blåfilm, as their company Imachine operated by plutonium. Anno was known, got in touch with Hägnan 1500 has a simpler solution, with Virtual open-air museum to discuss the idea. Reality technology taking visitors 500 In need of finance for the project, they years back in time in the blink of an eye. also contacted the municipality, but It all takes place in a barren landscape didn’t get much of a response. known as Berget, where preparations for “We moved on to museums and other the forthcoming church holiday are in Christer Engberg. customers who were interested in VR full swing. The characters speak several technology, but never gave up the idea of languages, in a range of accents. You’ll Heritage Site in mid December 2016, but Anno 1500. At around this time we were get to know characters who symbolise the project began much earlier. acquired by the communications agency, three different branches of a multicul- “It all started three years ago when my Samuraj, who had specialist expertise in tural society, and explore environments colleague, Johan Sundqvist, showed this field. This gave us the chance to fur- which appear to be taken right out of a me the latest VR technology, where you ther develop the technology, and meant history book. It’s a chillingly authentic could enter a different world,” explains that we could eventually present the journey through time and space. film maker and history fanatic Christer Anno 1500 concept in a new, better way.” Engberg, one of those behind the Anno Anno 1500 is the world’s first historical 1500 project. The municipality said yes, and Samuraj Virtual Reality experience, made possible “I wasn’t really into games, but I gave it got down to work on the project a little thanks to a meeting between a local a go anyway. It was really cool, so we be- over a year ago. Extensive research was games company and a history fanatic. gan to consider whether the technology required to build up the virtual environ- The interactive attraction was completed could be used for educational purposes, ment and make it as authentic as possi- around the time of Gammelstad Church and even to transport people back in ble, and there was very little in the way Town’s 20th anniversary as a World time,” Christer explains. of images and documents from the era.

14 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY FEATURE

We spoke to the museum, anthropologists and Hello there... archaeologists, read historical descriptions and studied old maps.

The games industry has become a serious business. The time is right for the Luleå region to invest in this new sector and take up a leading role in the development of next-generation technology, like Virtual Reality. The potential is there, and with the help of games guru Stefan Lampinen, Luleå is now working towards the establish- ment of more games companies in the region, and more projects harnessing the new technology.

“Everything is in place in Luleå in order for the region to establish itself in the games industry, whose turnover can be compared to export of electricity and heavy vehicles. What did the church and clock tower leaves, mud puddles and hens clucking, There is a vibrant creative industry look like back then? How low was the and all the other small details. After the here, with music, film, tech compa- water, how did people look and dress, preliminary work it was time to pull it all nies beginning to show an interest in and how did they live? These were just together and make sure the technology next-generation technology, a prom- some of the questions that needed to worked. It was a mammoth task. inent university of technology and a be answered. range of dynamic clusters and hubs, “We spoke to the museum, anthropolo- When it was all finished, we set up a such as Luleå Science Park, Creative gists and archaeologists, read historical testing group, made up of 12 people aged Park and Vetenskapens Hus.” descriptions and studied old maps. We eight to 60, to trial Anno 1500 ahead of also looked at a variety of clock towers the official opening at Kulturens hus in What’s the formula for success? and church cottages around the country. December 2016. “What is needed is effective ex- It was a case of creating images which “It would be impossible to carry out change of information and common didn’t exist based on the facts we were such a large, extensive project without meeting places. We simply have to able to gather,” says Christer. all the specialist expertise. It took much create greater openness, whereby everyone talks to each other. With longer than expected, but it was worth the pace of life today, it’s vital we To ensure everyone had the same it. We’ve learned a lot along the way, and stay on our toes and collaborate ef- material to work with, three conceptual we’ve seen a ripple effect. Museums all fectively. Everyone is good at what images were produced as a guide. After over the country have been in touch to they do, but we can really create that, work got under way to develop the find out more about the potential of VR miracles with the new technology.” environments. technology,” Christer says. “We worked round the clock for three What’s your role? months writing the script and building You can enjoy Anno 1500 at the Gam- “I’m currently working on business up each section. We started with a melstad Church Town Visitor Centre intelligence analysis which will form raw environment to which a map was or download it to your computer via the basis of a vision and plan outlin- added and reduced in size, to ensure the anno1500.se. The site also includes a film ing how the games industry can be buildings were in the right locations, and about the making of the project. ❖ developed. I also act as a sounding then scanned the faces and added all the board for those who need it.” ❖

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 15 GROWTH

After seeing the sketches of Kuststad, Jimmy Öhlund was an instant convert.

16 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY GROWTH

Sweden’s most eyecatching housing project begins to take shape

There’s a major building boom under way in Luleå, and the number of new houses is set to increase year on year. One of the most eyecatching projects at present is Kuststad, where the first phase is under way. The development will be completed next year.

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 17 GROWTH

The developer for Kuststad is Innerstadsfjärden AB, owned by local companies Nåiden Bygg and Granec. The architects are MAF Arkitektkontor AB.

The first stage consists of an exclusive block containing 120 apartments. Underneath is a car park, with a lift leading straight up to the apartments and inner courtyards, where water is seamlessly integrated.

hen homecomer Jimmy interior designer, style is important to me, “I feel like I want to get back to my roots. Öhlund laid eyes on the and Kuststad has lovely architecture, with Although both my parents have passed W drawings for Kuststad, seamless forms. It feels friendly, inviting away, I still have some friends here, he registered his interest immediately. and straightforward. There’s a touch of and there’s always Luleå Hockey! Luleå “This is one of the most interesting functionalism, which I like. The waterfront is a great place to live, with a genuine housing projects in the country, and location is also a key factor,” he says, big city feel. There are nice hotels and perfect if you want to live by the water, restaurants, which I enjoy more and like me,” he says. However, Jimmy is keen to point out he’s more. I like to go to different restaurants no boating enthusiast. and eat really well. Stockholm night-life Kuststad is located on Luleå’s southern “I think I’ve been out on a boat just once doesn’t have the same appeal as before. harbour, with the archipelago right in my whole life. Having said that, I’d Everything I need is right here.” ❖ outside the window and boat berths just never be able to live away from water.” a stone’s throw away. The entire project features high standards and architectur- After nearly 30 years in the capital, al expertise. And for those who appre- Jimmy feels it’s the right time to set ciate good design and close proximity something up in Luleå. Raised on Lulsun- to water, like homecomer Jimmy, it’s a det, he moved to Umeå at a young age to dream home. study. He then moved on to Stockholm, I looked at the drawings and “I looked at the drawings and sketches of where he’s been working with interior sketches of the new block, the new development, and fell for it right decoration of public and private spaces and fell for it right away. away. It’s just right for my lifestyle. As an for 20 years. It’s just right for my lifestyle.

18 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY GROWTH

THE NUMBER OF NEW RESIDENCES SET TO BE BUILT IN LULEÅ FROM 2015 TO 2019

2015 272 2016 354 2017 608 2018 771 2019 1,000

“We’re building for 10,000 new residents in Luleå” A building boom is under way in Luleå, which is essential for the city’s continued expansion. The aim is to build 10,000 new residences. “During 2017 we’re expecting just over 600 new residences to be completed, with a further 800, approximately, in 2018,” says AnneLie Granljung at Luleå Municipality.

uleå is expanding, and the ambition is to grow even more. student accommodation projects are also under way nearby the This means much more housing is needed, and when you campus, while sheltered housing for the elderly is being built in Lbear in mind there’s been practically no construction for many parts of Luleå. Luleå leads the way nationally in this area. many years, things are moving fast. “By offering good housing in the local area, it will be easier for “Kronandalen is the largest project, and set to continue over older people who want to move home, making room for younger many years. This will be a new district, with a school, nursery, families,” explains AnneLie. public transport and other amenities,” explains AnneLie Gran- “Much of the new housing being built isn’t always suitable for ljung, Head of Planning at the City Planning Administration. those who need it most, but it sets the property merry-go-round into motion. As people begin to move into newly built apart- The area is set to outgrow Hertsön, Luleå’s largest residential ments, older, cheaper homes come onto the market.” zone at present. Apartment blocks and terraced houses are being built above all. The project is also part of creating a long-term sustainable city, “The emergence of Kuststad reinforces Luleå’s status as a sea- with a good standard of living, economic growth and a commit- port. Naturally, people living in a coastal city want the chance ment to the environment. Luleå needs to build in order to make to be close to the water. Seminariet is a new type of environ- room for more people and businesses, create interaction and ment which many people in Luleå are familiar with, with the old social life and stimulate the unique values of nature and cultural school buildings being converted into unique housing.” environments. This is the vision for 2050. ❖

Many districts are becoming more and more built up, and just outside the centre, the new areas continue to expand through To read the full vision document and learn more about Luleå Municipality’s the addition of houses and apartment blocks. A number of current and future projects, visit lulea.se.

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 19 SPORT

Lekfalk shadows The thing that’s struck me so far is how hard these Luleå Hockey’s young women work. leading ladies

Emma Eliasson, Johanna Fällman and Ronja Savolainen take centre stage in a documentary about Luleå Hockey/ MSSK, which Ingela Lekfalk is currently working on round the clock. “Meeting 22 totally dedicated young women is a dream project,” Ingela says. Ingela Lekfalk.

mma Eliasson was just 12 years old when she set “Pia’s story should have been told back then, when it happened, her alarm clock for the middle of the night so she but we have that chance now with women’s ice hockey. I prefer could sneak down to the recreation room at home in working that way, that is, in the present,” she says. Kiruna. She turned on the TV to watch Damkronorna E(Sweden’s women’s national ice hockey team) shock Finland Filming started at the end of August, and will continue to take bronze in Salt Lake City. Emma decided there and then throughout the current playoffs up until the selection of the to be in the next Olympics. And that’s what happened. Olympic squad at the end of 2017. Over this hectic period, The documentary maker and radio producer Ingela Lekfalk Ingela and her team have followed the team on the ice, in the breaks into a smile when talking about the 27-year-old locker room, at their homes, at their workplaces and during Luleå blueliner. their brief time off. “Emma has a powerful untold story, just like everyone in the “The thing that’s struck me so far is how hard these young team. They devote their life to ice hockey, with no financial gain. women work. Most of them study or have full time jobs, do two Most of them play without getting paid.” training sessions a day as well as play matches,” Ingela says. “Then there’s the togetherness. You could see it so clearly The idea to follow Luleå Hockey/MSSK, the reigning Swedish when one of the girls picked up a bad injury in a match. It’s champions, was born on a car trip to Ikea. Following a prolific hard to put into words without using clichés, but I really hope period in which she produced the much praised documentaries we can convey how they support and stand up for each other.” Jenny, Gud och tystnaden (2008), Hur kunde hon (2010) and Tjejer typ tolv (2011), Ingela Lekfalk took a much needed break, As well as following the players, the documentary is based on until her passion to tell stories returned. interviews with Leif Boork and Börje Salming. The film’s team, “Most documentaries deal with events which have already which includes Martina Iverus and Ilona Pettersson, also at- taken place, but I really love capturing the here and now. At tached a microphone to a referee and coach during a match. the Football World Cup last summer we were able to hear Pia “The idea is to get as close as we can to the girls, and we want Sundhage’s own story, about the challenges of playing football them to feel we’ve presented them fairly. In this kind of project as a young girl and the opportunities she has today as a mature you have to believe in the subject 100 percent, but when you woman and coach,” says Ingela. work with such a committed bunch, it’s no problem. Their atti- “I wish I’d been able to film the journey of women’s football. tude is infectious.” ❖ Instead, I turned to women’s ice hockey, which is at pretty much the same stage as when Pia Sundhage started her career.”

Major resources are now being channelled into women’s ice

hockey – with Luleå Hockey/MSSK playing a big role – to open Financed by SVT, the Swedish Film Institute and Filmpool Nord, the documen- doors, improve conditions and get more girls playing the sport. tary about Luleå Hockey/MSSK will be broadcast on SVT in spring 2018.

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ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 21 COLUMN

Cycling on thin ice

JohanWRITER. COLUMNIST.Håkansson CONSULTANT.

Luleå still has an image as a cold, male-dominated steel city. While there may still be some truth in this, another type of Luleå is emerging. A city at the leading edge, whose womens’ teams are national champions and proudly break attendance records.

I grew up myself in the harsh climate pen overnight, but when the women’s For me, there’s no doubt. All the Swed- of the 1980s in the aftermath of the basketball team started getting higher ish titles have contributed to Luleå’s Stålverk 80 crash. attendances than their proud male identify, capturing the spirit of a city It was a city standing still. Which didn’t counterparts, it was clear something which breathes success. grow. Which didn’t develop. Which had shifted. And it’s great to see how Luleå Hockey didn’t believe. fans have totally embraced the wom- Ice hockey was our consolation. It was When Luleå Hockey finally started en’s team in no time at all. Johanna tough. There was a clenched fist, a lit taking a serious approach to women’s Fällman is as good an ambassador for sparkler which defied the darkness ice hockey (after a merger between the club badge as Johan Harju. and kept people from leaving. Munksund and Skuthman), the timing was perfect. Luleå Hockey’s ladies secured their Then something happened. There was no doubt, the city was ready. first Swedish Championship in 2016 A beautiful arts venue was built in There was a gap to be filled – a place in front of 4,179 fans, shattering the heart of the city. where the old and the new, the rough the Swedish record for women’s ice and the smooth could meet. hockey. The record for a regular SDHL If you ask me, this is the single most A couple of months ago I was doing an league match also fell later in the year. important event in Luleå in the last interview with Municipal Commissioner While other ice hockey cities like Skel- 40 years. Niklas Nordström at Stadshotellet. lefteå and Gothenburg are still debat- Kulturens hus acted as a catalyst; We were talking about sport as a re- ing whether to have women’s teams the city branched out and started to flection of the city, and Nordström said: at all, Luleå Hockey and their fans are believe. Local people had more pride, “If we weren’t a prosperous steel city, building something really exciting, just exciting restaurants started up and what were we? In the journey towards like Luleå Basket did. Luleå transformed into a modern, creating a new identity, I think sport, That’s really something to be vibrant place to live. especially basketball and women’s proud of. ❖ You could say the tough city started sport, plays a big role.” showing a soft side. Change didn’t hap-

22 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY FEATURE

Cycling on thin ice

They head for the waters of Luleå in both summer and winter and are experts at riding on all types of terrain, whether its sand, ice, woodland or asphalt. Despite its long winters, Luleå is a cycling city to be reckoned with, not least because of – and thanks to – its fatbike pioneers.

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 23 FEATURE

passing trend, a mid-life crisis or a big effort to take One of these is Olov Stenlund, one of the first to take up this care of the environment. Over the last few years, cy- form of adventure cycling in the city. cling has grown in popularity worldwide, and Sweden “I built my first fatbike three years ago, taking my the next step and Luleå are no exceptions. up the nerd scale there and then!” chuckles Olov. ASuddenly there are bikes everywhere, and Luleå’s streets are filled with cyclists, not least in the winter, with hoar-frost on However, his passion for bikes began much earlier. With the help their beards (yes, most cyclists are still men) and riding bikes of a small hollow in the tarmac outside Älvskolan, on Bergnäset, with oversized tyres. Olov learned to ride a bike at the age of six. Cycling, in different

24 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY FEATURE

Name: Olov Stenlund. Lives: In Luleå. Age: Just a number. Family: Jessica, Emmy and Zak. Keeps busy: By keeping the wheels turning in every way! Runs the blog, Bike Life In Swedish Lapland, and co-owns menswear store, Vitré, with his brother. Bikes owned: At least six. My favourite is a fatbike, a 2013 Custom Salsa Mukluk.

Fatbiking is about adventure, or bikepacking. You just take your bike and ride towards uncharted territory.

The municipal snowmobile tracks lead to Granudden, Sandön and Gråsjälören.

The problem was that although there were other people cycling, they weren’t doing it together.” It wasn’t long before Bike Life had readers all over the world, and suddenly Olov had friends in the USA, Australia and Japan. The trend also started to spread on home soil. After moving to the city in 2015, Johanna Myrland brought together many of Luleå’s cycling enthusiasts to form the present day Luleå Terrängcyklister. But back to 2013, and the garage where Olov’s first fatbike was created. After being somewhat restricted to the snow-free period, the whole winter season now opened up. “Cyclists normally see the winter as a negative, but now it’s like yes, now the real season is starting,” says Olov. “Fatbiking is about adventure, or bikepacking. You just take your bike and ride towards uncharted territory. Forgiving surfaces like ice and sand are perfect for fatbiking. The weather plays a big role of course, but part of the fun is seeing how the ice and tracks take shape from season to season. Things are never the same, and there’s no limit to what you can do.”

The popularity of cycling in Luleå could also be linked to its accessibility; to simply jump on the saddle and ride 30 kilometres right over the ice. The municipal snowmobile tracks are also perfect for cycling, leading to Granudden, Tjuvholmssundet, Sandön and Gråsjälören, among other sites. Many overseas visitors have stories about completing fantastic rides across magical winter landscapes. Englishman Kevin Hodgson is one of them. forms and levels of intensity, has been with him ever since. “I like to call Kevin Luleå’s first cycling tourist. We first hooked up In the 1980s he combined slalom with mountainbiking before via a fatbike page on Facebook. He’s cycled in the Alps, on Green- committing to road cycling in the early 2000s. land and on Iceland, but likes coming here best,” says Olov. In 2012 he launched the blog Bike Life In Swedish Lapland, which, as the name suggests, is all about life as a cyclist in the There are two reasons why Kevin has visited Luleå, and will do northernmost part of the country. so in future. “Things really took off with the blog. There wasn’t that much “Firstly, Scandinavian winter destinations are usually fairly interest, and this was before social media had really taken off. small, with not that much to do, but in Luleå there are great

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 25 FEATURE

shops, cafés and restaurants and loads to do in the evening. And when it’s time to ride, it’s just a few metres down to the ice at Norra hamn”, says Kevin. “The other reason is the ice. I love cycling on ice, lakes are best, but I never thought I’d be cycling on the sea, that is, until I heard about Luleå archipelago. I’ve now cycled around 300–400 kilometres on the sea and lakes. It helps clear my head, but in a good way.”

Olov’s favourite cycling memories come from Luleå archipelago. “I’ve had so many amazing experiences, like when I rode two kilometres out into the pack ice off Brändöskär. That’s an area you can’t normally get to, and it’s an incredibly dramatic landscape, almost like the Arctic. There’s just ice, sea, and then Finland on the other side.” “I grew up on a lake and have been sailing every weekend, and every chance I had, since the age of five. Coming back to these sites on my bike, in the middle of winter, it blows my mind every time. I really like the stark contrast – you can cycle on Skvalpen in shorts in July, and then just six months later it’s all turned to ice. Where else can you find that? It’s easy to take it for granted.” ❖

FATBIKE Developed in the USA as a cycle designed for snow and sand, but proved surprisingly effective on regular forest tracks too. Fatbikes are known for their simplicity. They normally have no suspension at all, but a degree of suspension can be added by either releasing or filling the tyres with air, depending on the surface. The most common question fatbike owners get asked is “Is the bike heavy to manoeuvre?” The answer is no, fatbikes are surprisingly light to operate.

26 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY FEATURE

OLOV’S THREE FAVOURITE RIDES Sandön: Far out on Sandön when the water is low. It’s unbelievable. It’s like being on the moon. Niporna: You can ride there with any type of bike. Magical. Hindersön: Luleå’s outer archipelago is a clear favourite in the winter. Think Hindersön and beyond. Cycling in Luleå CYKELSTÄLLET Well-stocked cycle store selling a range of high quality models. One of the few to stock fatbikes. Includes an extensive workshop which handles repairs as well as bicycle rebuilds. cykelstallet.com

OUROBOROS Combined cycle store and yoga studio. Stocks high quality bikes, rents out fatbikes and organises daytime and evening fatbike tours as well as guided tours of the city. Ouroboros also has a cycle workshop. ouroboroslulea.com

FATBIKE ADVENTURES Company which rents out fatbikes (kids sizes included) to private individuals, companies and clubs all year round. Also provides guided tours. In the summer, bikes can be rented at Klubbviken, on Sandön. You can download maps of Sandön’s best cycle routes at the Fatbike Adven- tures website. fatbikeadventures.se

LULEÅ CYKELKLUBB Cycling club offering various forms of recreational cycling with the aim of boosting interest and enthusiasm for the sport in Luleå. Mainly involved with road cycling, for exercisers and competitive cyclists alike. facebook.com/luleacykelklubb

LULEÅ TERRÄNG- CYKLISTER Cycling club involved in most types of terrain cycling, including cross country, enduro, downhill and fatbike. Provides training, recreational tours, repair evenings, trips and other social events. facebook.com/ luleaterrangcyklister

EXTREMSPORTHALLEN The extreme sports hall on Örnäset has set times for BMXing. luleaextremsport.blogg.se

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 27 GROWTH

Kimberly Taylor, Taylor Collective Solutions.

Martin Schibbye, Blank Spot Project.

Jessica Bjurström, CEO at Komm.

Anders Ericson, CEO at the Association of Swedish Advertisers.

David Orlic, Deputy CEO at Prime. Meeting place gives Luleå a lift For the second year in a row, NMW drew visitors from both Sweden and overseas. The meeting place for cultural and creative enterprise in Norrbotten has become a real force. Ron Lynch, a creative professional from Austin, Texas, is full of praise. “My advice? Don’t stop. Keep moving forward and developing Norrbotten Media Week.”

n a city like Luleå, with a strong staged for the second consecutive year forces with our colleagues in Piteå. The industrial and technology sector, in February. NMW is best described as Yours team, and our colleagues at Vinter cultural and creative enterprise an event week and meeting place for and Helikopter, formed the core group, is even more important. Not only creative enterprise – not only regionally, but we wanted to create an arena for Ifrom an economic and employment per- but domestically and internationally. others, which no one owns, so we took spective, but above all, to create a more One of those behind the initiative, Oskar BD Pop, Filmpool Nord and a number attractive Luleå. Creative enterprises Norberg Lundmark, from Yours commu- of others on board. And more are wel- promote a strong spirit of diversity and nications agency, explains more: come to join.” give everyone the opportunity to fulfil “It all began when the communications their aspirations – right here. agencies in Luleå’s industry council start- From day one, NMW enjoyed national This requires creative and inspiring ed talking about forming an arena for support from one of its most enthusias- meeting places, like NMW, which is being creative enterprise, and we then joined tic advocates, Jessica Bjurström, CEO

28 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY GROWTH

Hello there...

Meanwhile, as NMW takes place, Luleå Big Air is getting under way at the university. Fiona Fagrell, head of communications at Luleå According to the Norrbotten Media Week organisers, creative professionals, communicators, Big Air, thinks masses of creativ- marketeers – pretty much anyone – are welcome. Oskar Norberg Lundmark, Yours, Ronny Olovs- son, Vinter, Ella Jonsson, Helikopter, Pär Soini, BD Pop, and Robin Lindquist, Luleå Municipality. ity is a must to win this type of contest. “The more creative the better! It’s a case of mixing it up and not trying the same trick twice. And if you manage to do something our judges haven’t seen before, all the better. I see Luleå and Our demanding judges assess the Austin as two pas- following criteria: level of difficulty, sionate, committed height, landing and not least, style.” cities whose citizens are genuinely Just like hurtling down a jump curious and open ramp, starting up an event like Ron Lynch, Big minded. Luleå Big Air must take a lot of Baby Agency. courage. What made you take the plunge? “Luleå Big Air came about through of KOMM (The Swedish Association of Austin has established the internation- an interest in skiing. Everyone Communication Agencies). ally recognised SXSW event – which in- running the event has a passion for “Norrbotten is an exciting geographical spired Luleå to start up NMW – bringing winter activities, and felt that was area, with so many towns and cities where together cultural and creative enter- something missing at the university. so much creativity is taking place and prise to exchange knowledge. So what After the first year’s contest we re- where many companies engaged in crea- advice do you have for Luleå? alised we weren’t the only ones who tive enterprise are based.” “My best advice? Don’t stop. Keep enjoyed the event, and this helped it developing Norrbotten Media Week. grow into what it is today.” NMW has also received international rec- Keep making progress. After that? Ask ognition. Someone showing a little extra for help! A festival is about providing a The ski jump competition is based interest is Ron Lynch, creative director at fun environment for others, and there’s in the heart of the Luleå Univer- Big Baby Agency in Austin. no room for pride along the way. People sity of Technology campus. What “I see Luleå and Austin as two passionate, want to help, so make it possible. The impression of the university and committed cities whose citizens are gen- secret behind SXSW’s genuine progress city are you trying to create for uinely curious and open minded. In USA, in the last few years has been bringing spectators? Austin is currently a little like what Paris all these people together. The informal “We want people to feel a sense of was in 1920s Europe – an innovative melting environment for interaction is the real community and belonging. Every- pot which attracts creative people. It seems attraction, not the speakers on the one should feel welcome. Hopefully, Luleå has a little of the same mentality, stage.” ❖ visitors will see the university, and with the city looking to promote a dialogue Luleå itself, as a place of energy, joy to develop projects and your region.” and winter fun.” ❖

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 29 CLOSE BY

MAY BE LOCATED FAR UP NORTH, Luleåbut its close proximity and accessibility to the rest of the world are striking. For example, did you know ...

… you can reach 15 worldwide destinations from Luleå Airport. When there are most package tours, in May, this means 12 departures a week.

… Stockholm, Gothenburg and ... Luleå Airport the Canary Islands top the list of broke its Tromsö the most popular destinations passenger record from Luleå Airport in 2016. in 2016 for the sixth straight year, Pajala with 1,197,550 travellers. ... you can travel to the Luleå centre of Luleå really quickly and cheaply on Uleåborg LLT services 4 and 104. 25… Luleå Airport 5 operates around 25 departures a day, 15 of which fly to Arlanda.

... Luleå Airport is the fifth largest Stockholm in Sweden. Gothenburg

Thailand

The Dominican Republic Cancún, Mexico, Jamaica … Luleå-Arlanda is the single most popular flight route in Sweden, measured by number of passengers. In 2016, there were 1.07 MILLION departures and arrivals on the route.

Croatia Bulgaria

Mallorca Sardinia Samos Grand Canaria Turkey Tenerife Fuerteventura Rhodes Crete Cyprus Mauritius 30 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY ROLE MODELS

Saga follows her dreams and refuses to be held back. Each year, Anna and her family help thousands of children enjoy meaningful recreation. Saga, Ebba and Ajdana belong to a new generation who know exactly what they want. We call them role models.

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 31 ROLE MODELS

From Harlem to Hertsön From her room on Hertsön, Saga Talludde choreographs dance routines which evoke the spirit of catwalks, nightclubs and music videos. With the help of the internet she’s brought Harlem to Luleå, and dreams of continuing to dance to her own beat.

32 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY ROLE MODELS

aga Talludde wasn’t even born onto streetdance, before music and art “Since I didn’t go to ballet classes when when Madonna released Vogue eventually took over. I was younger, this motivated me to try back in 1990. The track brought But two years ago, after stumbling on to catch up and get better. At the start voguing to the attention of that video, Saga’s dance passion was though, I couldn’t do a pirouette and fell Smillions, but it wasn’t until 2014 that reignited. Around this time, she also flat on my face,” she giggles. Saga discovered the stylised, fashion- discovered the Japanese voguing duo inspired dance. AyaBambi online, and began combining Originating in the Harlem ballroom “I remember watching the video for Luleå Rytmik och Baletts’s dance pack- scene, voguing is based on classical fash- Chandelier, by Sia, and thinking wow, age with her own training using YouTube ion poses, with dancers forming right can you really dance like that? It inspired and Instagram. angles with their hands and arms. The me to start dancing again; I wanted to “I really like what AyaBambi do. The short, sharp movements are delivered dance just like that,” she says. great thing about voguing is that you can with lots of self confidence, usually to develop your own style. It’s essentially a pulsating dance music. She’s always had a passion for dance. dance of improvisation, which is different Despite only working with the style for Not so much through strict ballet classes depending on who is dancing, and what just over a year, Saga has already come but more of a light-hearted hobby, experience and background they have,” up with a number of solo routines. starting with kids’ dancing and moving Saga explains. “For me, music, dance and art are all connected. Every time I hear music I start thinking about choreography, and when I get on stage something just clicks. I feel a sense of power and enter my own little bubble.”

What are your ambitions? “I never thought it would be possible to become a professional dancer. You need a foundation, which comes from starting at a young age. If you look at AyaBambi, for example, they’ve found their own style, and that’s what I want to do,” Saga says. “The dream is to keep developing my own style. I really don’t feel like there’s anything holding me back. We’ll see where it takes me, and what stage I end up on!” ❖

Name: Saga Talludde. Age: 17. Lives: Hertsön/Bensbyn. Keeps busy: Attending first year of Arts programme, specialising in art. Favourite hangout: Dansmaggan (Dansmagasinet). Luleå’s best kept secret: The selection of dance! What makes you really happy: Diversity in the media, For me, dance, platform shoes and disco music. What annoys you: The cis norm, climate threat and when music and art you want to make a toasted sandwich but you’ve run out are all connected. of avocado!

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 33 ROLE MODELS

Award winning everyday heroes caring for kids She devotes her life to making each day a little better for thousands of children every year. Anna Karlsson and family have been running VildaKidz, and helping Luleå be Our dream is to a nicer city, since 2015. work with the project on a full It all started with a summer camp a few years time basis. ago, however, the Karlssons soon realised that kids have problems all year round – not just during the summer. They also noticed there was a lack of free of charge activities on offer, and VildaKidz was born. days. VildKidz also helps provide skates, bikes, The original aim was to help 100 kids a year graduation outfits and lice removal cream, things enjoy meaningful recreation, but before long, a lot of people take for granted – but not all. 100 had become what it is today: 3,000. “We always let the kids take part in deciding “Of course it’s sad that we’re needed, but we what we do, and we try not to be too strict. play an important role. We can see we’re There’s no need to be inflexible. The only rule making a difference. The best thing about we have is that you have to be nice.” VildaKidz is seeing the joy in the eyes of the children,” says Anna. Anna plans and runs all the activities herself alongside her husband, Stefan. As well as look- When we meet, VildaKidz has just had its most ing after administration and preparations, they hectic period. The period from Christmas window both work full time. Sunday to New Year’s Eve is hectic. 5,000 chil- “VildaKidz is a lifestyle. On a normal day I get up dren received food and presents on Christmas at three a.m. to cook and do the paperwork, and Day alone, from VildaKidz families based at three we also have to make time for our own kids,” sites: Medborgarhuset in Arvidsjaur, and Björk- Anna adds. skata Church and Leo’s Lekland, both in Luleå. “But we do it all as a family, otherwise it would “We’re especially busy on weekends, holidays never work. What drives us is the joy of helping and breaks. It feels great that these children others.” have something to talk about when they go back to their school or nursery. It helps them VildaKidz is currently looking for a base. As feel part of things.” things stand, many of their activities are held at the Karlsson family home on Mjölkudden. VildaKidz runs around 200 activities a year, “Our dream is to work with the project on a full including everything from visiting swimming time basis. We know we’re needed, and want to pools and running sporting events to arranging continue providing meaningful recreation for cooking courses and snowmobile and survival everyone.” ❖

Name: Anna Karlsson. What annoys you: Narrow minded along the river. I love to be close to Age: 42. people who only see obstacles. The nature and the archipelago. Lives: On Mjölkudden, Luleå. word “wait” is not in my vocabulary! Fun fact: Nominated for the Norr- Family: Husband, Stefan, and kids, Best spots for kids in Luleå: The botten Person of the Year award by Rebecca, 13, and Marcus, 9. archipelago. We spend a lot of time Norrbottens-Kuriren, and the Driving Keeps busy: Running VildaKidz and as there. Spirit of the Year in the comradeship members’ advisor at Hermelinen. Where do you recharge your batter- category. Won NSD’s “Gilla” award What makes you really happy: Help- ies: I try to draw strength from small, in 2015. ing others. everyday things. I like to take a stroll

34 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY Luleå Municipality are providing SEK 250,000 a year from 2017 to 2019. In the same period, around 15 property companies will support VildaKidz with SEK 20,000 a year.

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 35 ROLE MODELS

Sights set on going solo They belong to Generation Z and have their sights set on becoming entrepreneurs. JA Sweden entrepreneurs Ebba, Saga and Ajdana are right at the heart of the new Luleå.

weden – and the world – is now Junior Achievement Sweden has been “I also think there’s a different outlook to- filled with so-called Z kids, young teaching entrepreneurship to high school day, which has helped us, due to feminism, people who devour media con- students since the 1980s. Studies indicate among other things. It’s more acceptable tent at breakneck speed, do their that municipalities which cooperate with for girls to stand out these days, and we’ve Shomework and have decided to make a Junior Achievement Sweden and work seen other JA Sweden companies which difference. A great many (42 percent of strategically with enterprise develop- have inspired us,” says Ajdana. American Z kids) also plan to start their ment create more jobs, which sees more own business when they grow up. residents staying put or returning to their TeleRING UF is now fully focused on pre- home municipality in greater numbers. paring for the regional JA Sweden trade Ebba Calla, Saga Lindberg and Ajdana “I can definitely see myself staying in fair, in Piteå from 29 to 30 March, where Ahmetova are in the final year of the Luleå when I leave school. I’d like to start the awards for Stand and Salesperson of Business Administration programme in my own business here, in some way, the year are up for grabs, among others. Luleå. Just like their classmates, they’re preferably in the field of charity,” Ajdana Finalists for the JA Sweden national studying a Junior Achievement pro- says. Saga feels the same way. championships, held later in the spring, gramme, which means they must start “I’ve wanted to run my own business are also selected here. up and run a JA Sweden company during since lower secondary school. I want to “This is really good experience for the the whole academic year. plan my own time and build something future. ❖ This means Ebba, Saga and Ajdana are which I can watch grow and be proud of.”

now working with sales, marketing and JUNIOR ACHIEVEMENT SWEDEN bookkeeping relating to their own compa- All three seem confident about their Junior Achievement Sweden is a politically ny, teleRING UF. plans, with no doubts or uncertainties unaffiliated, non-profit education provider. It has provided educational programmes in entrepre- “Our business idea is to sell protective about their future or their JA Sweden neurship to high school students since 1980. rings for mobile phones. The ring is company. There are currently over 8,600 JA Sweden attached to the rear of the phone to im- “Sometimes we’re not 100 percent sure companies in Sweden, engaging almost 28,000 prove protection and durability. It’s easy what we’re doing, but we help and sup- students. Research indicates that students who run JA Sweden companies are more likely to for your phone to slide out of your hand port each other. You have to give it a shot, start up a company later in life, receive higher – we’ve all done it,” says Ajdana. or you won’t get anywhere,” says Ebba. pay and become unemployed less than others.

36 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY THE LULEÅ WAY

One of them fell head over heels during his exchange programme, and the other two show their love for their home town through stunning portraits. Meet Daniel, Jacob and Lutz, and enjoy their stories and impressions of Luleå.

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 37 THE LULEÅ WAY

“This is true love” In between gigs in Sydney, Vienna and Paris, Daniel Holmgren is looking for the perfect light back on home soil. The Raised Fist guitarist has a new passion – and the subject is Luleå.

“It all happened so fast,” explains Daniel is actually a warm city, and everything is “I guess I’ve always had an eye for Holmgren, taking another gulp of coffee. close by, like nature, fishing and of course, photography. I took three or four photos Yup, it’s got to be milk and sugar for Friends is only five minutes away! Perhaps of classic Luleå subjects, and they looked Daniel – the traditional way! I’m a romantic, but I think it’s true love!” good. I though they’d work well for When we meet, he’s just returned from tourists to the city, so I got in touch with Australia and New Zealand, where Raised Anyway, getting back to the subject. For Savoy and half seriously suggested they Fist have played seven gigs. Daniel has residents of Luleå it’s no great shock to should exchange them for some of the been with the Luleå-based hardcore rock see Daniel behind the lens of a camera. jazz players hanging on the walls.” band for nearly 17 years, and has several For some years now, he’s been capturing round the world trips under his belt. images of Luleå night-life, in particular for Looking at Daniel’s pictures, his love for “Yeah, I’ve seen a few things, but I’ve the entertainment portal innan- his home town shines through. In the never even thought about moving away krogen.se, which he manages. crispest light, he’s captured the crane, from Luleå. I really love it here, Luleå In October last year, Daniel stumbled Kulturens hus, Bergnäs bridge, the ice has everything I need,” he says, pausing upon a better camera on Facebook, and breakers, the theatre, the Northern a second. one month later he was hanging his huge- Lights and starry sky. “Why would I leave? I wouldn’t say it was ly popular works in the lobby, restaurant “I like to check my subjects out. I go out the climate keeping me here, but Luleå and every room of the Hotell Savoy. with my dog, Hägge (he needs a lot of ex-

38 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY THE LULEÅ WAY

ercise!) and we head off chasing sunsets. Light is everything. This morning, I ran out on to the ice where I live, because the sky was amazing,” says Daniel. “I’m like a kid again behind the camera, always exploring. Photography is a bit like fishing, you never know what you have. You take a few shots, but don’t know how they’ll turn out until you get I’m like a kid home and open them on your computer.” again behind the camera, always Working under the name Cre8 Photo, the jobs have started to roll in. Daniel exploring. Pho- had 18 new subjects on display at Strand tography is a bit Galleria in January and February, and like fishing. the aim now is to capture images of all four seasons. “I’m looking forward to the autumn. I don’t think I’ve ever followed the Name: Daniel “Dino” Holmgren. Luleå in three words: Close, the dog, where there are wide weather the way I do now. On our last Age: 36. Lives: In central Luleå. warm and secure. open spaces. tour I was lying in the sun when I started Grew up: On Hertsön, Luleå. Favourite place: At home Fun fact: Write music in my own Works as: Photographer, under on Kungsgatan or bobbing name. Wrote Båtenlåten (almost thinking about getting back home to take the name Cre8 Photo, guitarist around on a boat off Gäddvik. 150,000 listens on Spotify) under shots of the winter.” in Raised Fist and entertain- Luleå’s best hidden local the name Sixten & Blixten, with “It’s all about having fun. I’m lucky ment editor at innankrogen.se gem: Hertsöträsket, with its Anton Lukeniuk. Most recently, In my spare time: Fishing, pref- jetties, cabins and fires. wrote a rough and ready ice enough to have an outlet for my creative erably in Gäddviksströmmen or Favourite hangout: Around hockey anthem for the SSK youth side and make a living from it.” ❖ at Hertsöträsket. Varvet and Gültzauudden with section. And Dundretlåten.

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 39 THE LULEÅ WAY

”People don’t realise what a great place we live in”

With his highly successful films, he’s not only given people in Luleå a sense of pride, he’s helped put the city on the map. Jacob Nilsson is the carpenter who became a film producer, photographer and ambassador for Luleå.

y now, his films are familiar to “I really enjoy being close to nature and most of us, featuring grand keeping active. Before I’d even got the views of Luleå’s water, ice green light for The Luleå Way campaign, and woodland as well as its I had loads of usable material in my archive Bwarmth, people and outdoor life. which I’d built up over time,” he says. Since the first film, The Luleå Way, was “I try to live by the maxim ‘do what you love uploaded to Luleå’s Facebook page in and you’ll never work a day in your life!’” May last year it has been praised, liked “Gaining insight into how tourists see our and shared in large numbers. Jacob Nils- destination has opened my eyes to Luleå son has made four films in collaboration even more. People are so busy in their with Visit Luleå, and a fifth is on the way. day-to-day lives that they hardly ever see “The first film, The Luleå Way, a kind of what a beautiful place we live in.” introduction, was followed by the summer, autumn and weekend films. My next work, What do you have in mind when Winter The Luleå Way, featuring a genu- you film or photograph Luleå? ine Luleå winter, comes out in spring.” “When I’m on site I don’t think so much. I look for angles and use my instincts, Jacob founded his company, Silverview, but I’m always really focused. I try to in August 2015. Since then he’s mainly keep my eyes peeled and seize oppor- produced films and advertising films for tunities. You have to be there when a number of companies, collaborating it happens, whatever it is. Of course, with various communications agencies. for more technical shots, you need to He takes photos mainly in his free time. plan ahead.” “Photography is close to my heart, and I take a lot of pictures in my free time and As mentioned earlier, there’s been also for work. I try to keep my Instagram a really positive reaction to the films. feed looking good, and post content How does it feel? regularly. When I’m out working I’ll take “It’s great. I really felt that Luleå needed the odd picture for the archive.” something like this. I hadn’t really appreciated how popular the films were; Jacob began to document Luleå, he they’ve been used in so many different says, due to his love of film as well as ways. I couldn’t be happier, it feels like the city itself. we’ve put Luleå on the map.” ❖

40 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY THE LULEÅ WAY

I try to live by the maxim ‘do what you love and you’ll never work a day in your life!’

Name: Jacob Nilsson. Age: 23. Lives: In Luleå. Grew up: In Bensbyn, outside Luleå. Works as: Film producer, photographer and drone operator at his company, Silverview. In his spare time: My interest in film is partly down to my interest in technology. Film is such a technical field these days. I’ve even started using drones and similar kit. Radio-controlled equipment is great fun! When I’m not doing that, I’m usually watching a film, exercising or spending time with friends. Luleå in three words: A home, with variety and togetherness. Favourite hangout: Swimming and diving from the roof at Norra Hamn in the summer. Favourite season: The summer, when things are so relaxed. But the winter is unique, and an important part of Luleå. Big dream: An apartment on the top of Lulsundsberget, with a terrace and view over all of Luleå. That wouldn’t be bad! Perfect for a photographer. From there you could shoot the sunset all year round, ha ha! Fun fact: I shot some snowmobile films when I was younger together with friends, which kind of kick started what I work with today. https://www.instagram.com/jacobnilsson_/

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 41 THE LULEÅ WAY

Winter made Lutz warm to Luleå

Drawn by the cold climate and Northern Lights, he was overwhelmed by the darkness and ... fika! German exchange student Lutz Ziegler knows how to make the most out of a visit to Luleå.

espite having a couple of options, Lutz Ziegler “That’s something else which is typical Luleå. The people here decided pretty quickly Luleå was for him when he are really, really helpful.” got the chance to spend a term overseas as part of his Engineering course at university in Karlsruhe. In What’s the biggest difference compared to Germany? DAugust last year, he set foot on Norrbotten soil for the first time “The winters back home aren’t like in Luleå. If you want a real after landing at Luleå Airport. winter there you have to head to the Alps for a week. In Luleå “I remember the bus journey to the city. All I could see were the winter is long and part of everyday life – not just one week. typical Swedish forest and loads of red houses,” he laughs. I like it. The winter wasn’t as tough as I thought either. Sure, it gets cold if you forget that extra sweater, but apart from What he didn’t know was how happy he’d become and how that it’s great.” much more there was to see. Lutz is now back in Karlsruhe, but during his six months in Luleå he was a regular visitor at Luleå What was the strangest thing you experienced? tourist office, where he was always getting new tips on activities “The darkness. I’d never experienced so little daylight as in to try out and local gems to visit. Luleå. Oh yeah, and the black pudding! It looks really strange, “One of the best things about Luleå is that everything is close but tastes nice.” at hand. Water and nature are always nearby. Everything you “Then there’s the fika tradition. It’s not really strange though, need is here, combining a big city with a small town feel.” but something I like, not just because I like coffee but because “My favourite place is Ormberget. You can do anything there – it’s a nice way of sitting together and socialising. It’s a great way barbecue with friends, go running or skiing or just sit at the top of meeting other people.” of the hill and watch the sunset.” What will your memories of Luleå be? Lutz also paid regular visits to Luleå’s archipelago, camping on “That it’s a beautiful city where you can be yourself. You don’t Sandön in both autumn and winter. have to go far outside the city to enjoy solitude and nature, and “The first time I went there, me and my friends borrowed a it’s really easy to camp here,” he says. rowing boat from the municipality and rowed over. The second “I wish I could have stayed here longer. I’d love to do more ski- time, winter was coming up. The ice hadn’t yet frozen, but a ing, try out the ice road and ride a snowmobile. But I’ll be back, local from the island collected us and we camped over one night preferably in March when it’s still winter but a bit lighter.” ❖ in sub zero temperatures. It was amazing,” he says.

42 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY THE LULEÅ WAY

Winter made Lutz One of the best things about Luleå is that everything is close at hand. warm to Luleå Water and nature are always nearby.

Name: Lutz Ziegler. Age: 22. Lives: Bensheim, Germany. Connection to Luleå: Exchange student at Luleå University of Technology for the autumn term 2016. Luleå for Lutz in three words: Water, nature and friendly people. Best thing about Luleå: Big city and small town all at once. Favourite places in Luleå: Ormberget and the archipelago. Favourite Luleå memory: Rowing across Sandön and camping.

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 43 CULTURE

A passion for the arts

Opening just over a year ago, Kulturcentrum Ebeneser was consultancy jobs, working as a modera- a success right from day one. tor, lecturer and booking artists. “The venue hosted 250 events last year, including dance exhibitions, music performances, book launches and corporate That said, Fredrika doesn’t think it’s a breakfasts,” explains Fredrika Johansson, the manager and problem to be involved in so many differ- public face of the organisation. ent projects at the same time. “I think it benefits everything I work with. Closed down in 2007 after the opening put on events which transcend the I build up a big contact network, which is of Kulturens hus, Kulturcentrum Eben- generations.” of help to everyone. But Kulturcentrum eser has now reappeared as a welcome Ebeneser is my main focus and full time addition, providing a stage for non-profit The aim ahead of this year is to book job,” she explains. events and cultural expressions previous- more times during the day, with a view to ly lacking a public audience. staging even more events. Fredrika is also very open to collaborat- “We discovered there was more interest For her part, Fredrika is passionate about ing with Luleå Municipality, the centre’s than we first thought, quickly filling up culture and Luleå alike. As a qualified principal owner. the whole first year with new bookings. teacher and vocal coach, she’s worked “It’s easy to talk to politicians and public The majority are brand new events pre- on a range of projects and commissions, officials. If you need to discuss some- viously shown only in closed circles, but mostly in the field of music. Among oth- thing over lunch, setting up a meeting is which now have a more open, accessible ers, her track record includes spells as a quick and easy. I feel like they listen to platform,” says Fredrika. coach for UpSweden Music Community, me, and I’ve become a kind of collective “It’s also great that we have visitors and as a producer for P3 Live, Veckans voice for the sections of Luleå’s cultural from right across the spectrum, from färsking and Svensktoppen nästa on P4 sphere which I come into contact with kids to pensioners, and that we can Norrbotten. She also fits in a number of and who organise events with us.” ❖

25/3: KULTURCENTRUM EBENESER 28–29/4: KULTURENS HUS VildaKidz. Charity concert. After Dark. A farewell performance with a 7/4: LULEÅ ENERGI ARENA bang, awash with glitter, glamour, music and Coming up lots of humour. 8/3: KULTURENS HUS Freddie 70 years. A tribute to Queen and Freddie Tommy Nilsson. A feelgood show. Mercury in the year in which he would have turned 70. 4–5/5: KULTURCENTRUM EBENESER 11/3–29/4: NORRBOTTENSTEATERN 7–8/4: NORRBOTTENSTEATERN Lunch theatre & after work event featuring Mitt livs melodi. A musical tribute for the Den ofrivilliga divan – Petra Mede. A quickfire the performance, Under [är jag] bar. audience through 50 years. performance with comedy that hits the mark. 13/5: EBENESER 18/3: KULTURENS HUS 25/4: KULTURCENTRUM EBENESER Ramblin’ Minds 30th Anniversary. Lisa Nilsson. Tour featuring old and new tracks. KONTEXT. Literary discussion with Majgull Axelsson. For more tips, visit lulea.nu.

44 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY FOOD & DRINK A culinary voyage featuring Norrbotten flavours

With his Live Cooking concept, celebrity chef Johan So much more than just a dinner, Live Cooking Tingvall has taken Norrbotten cuisine to a whole is a culinary journey in which Norrland speciali- new level. After dining at his restaurant, Kaptens- ties such as grouse, reindeer, char, vendace row and other local delicacies are prepared before gården, you’ll not only leave with a pleasant sense your eyes. At the same time, Johan Tingvall of satiety but take with you stories and new shares stories about the origin of the ingredi- insights into Norrbotten cuisine. ents, Norrland culinary traditions and the conditions for food production this far north. You’ll also get the chance to feel, taste and smell what is being cooked.

Live Cooking takes place every Thursday throughout the winter at Kaptensgården, located in the agreeable setting of Gam- I can use melstad Church Town World Heritage Site, and up to eight a fish I’ve guests can be accommodated caught or each time. The whole dinner something takes just over three hours, with I’ve hunted between eight to twelve dishes myself. served. The choice of dishes depends on what ingredients are in season. “Since there are many dishes and a small number of guests, we don’t use that much of each ingredient. This means I can use a fish I’ve caught or something I’ve hunted myself, which I found in my own freezer or borrowed from my in-laws!” he says.

For Johan himself, meeting the guests is a highlight. “We have interesting conversations, with guests sharing their own experiences and stories. It’s personal, pleasant and down to earth.” ❖

For upcoming Live Cooking dates, visit restaurangkaptensgarden.se.

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 45 RESTAURANT GUIDE

New flavours

Luleå’s latest addition to the restaurant scene combines modern fine dining with traditional Italian cooking. London-born chef James Thompson tells us more about Restaurang Bergströmska.

“New premises, new staff and a warm, Italian ambience. My name was written all over this project, and I wanted to get going right away putting together menus, bringing my experience from Rome and Italian cuisine.”

What is it that’s so fantastic about Italian food? “The combination of passion and flavour you get when you use genuine Italian recipes. The harmony between the rich taste of the meat and the subtle, cherry tones of the wine and smoky oak is almost poetic. The alternatives are endless, and I love the fresh spices and making fresh pasta. I also enjoy the warm, family feeling this type of food seems to conjure up.”

Is this something which was missing in Luleå? “Absolutely. More restaurants to choose from means a better experience for visitors. It’s great to be able to choose food from all over the world when you go out and eat.”

What do you want your guests to experience? “My goal each day is to hear cutlery scraping against plates, and our guests laughing, talking and touching glasses. I love seeing their happy faces as they pass by me in the kitchen. Having satisfied customers is always my aim.” ❖

46 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY RESTAURANT GUIDE

Restaurant guide allstar fabriken kitchen & table roasters Sports bar serving junkfood Fabriken brings the spirit of Clarion Hotel Sense plays Stylish restaurant inspired by deluxe, that is, classical Amer- Copenhagen to Luleå. Serves host to Swedish celebrity chef local ingredients. Excellent ican dishes such as burgers, Smørrebrød the rough, Marcus Samuelsson, and his selection of wines and in- steaks and fajitas. industrial way, with or without Kitchen & Table restaurant house coffee roastery focusing allstarbar.se/lulea snaps. concept. Focuses on fun dining on quality. fabrikenbar.se rather than fine dining. roasters.se kitchenandtable.se/lulea baan thai Thai restaurant in the heart of friends sushi & salladsbar the city with a lunch buffet and Restaurant, café and confec- odod Locally sourced, healthy and excellent evening menu. tioner renowned for its deli- Traditional sushi and unique organic fare. Combines sushi baanthailulea.se cious pastries. Lunch buffet, Asian dishes in a simple with salads that are out of this filling sandwiches, salads and setting. world. after work evening on Fridays. sushiodod.com sushibar.nu bastard burgers friendsfikafood.se Burgers simple and plain – the real deal. Locally sourced, o´learys taj mahal self-ground meet, fresh bread goodwill Sports bar including ten-pin Authentic Indian restaurant and sides such as sweet potato Family restaurant serving a bowling, pool tables and combining modern dishes with fries and homemade dressings. mix of grilled fare, traditional amusement arcade. The menu traditional tandoori flavours. bastardburgers.se dishes and Asian classics, like features O´Learys classics like tajmahallulea.se dumplings. buffalo wings, ribs, quesadillas restauranggoodwill.se and hamburgers. bistro, bar, bridge tapas de papá olearys.se/lulea-event-center Popular summer restaurant Traditional Spanish tapas res- floating on the water – literally. hemmagastronomi taurant. Pick your own pinchos Menu featuring small, medium Locally produced, well-cooked pastabacken and tapas and pay at the end and large grilled treats as well food focusing on seasonal Cosy pasta restaurant inspired of the evening. as sweet dishes. ingredients – all day long. by Italy and Argentina. tapasdepapa.se bistrobarbrygga.se Includes deli and bakery. pastabacken.se hemmagastronomi.se the bishops arms bistro norrland restaurang Gastropub chain specialising in Locally produced Norrland cui- jazzmatsalen bergströmska beers and single malt whisky. sine in a relaxed bistro setting. Nestled in the Hotell Savoy, Italian fine dining with a Also serves traditional pub Top class food and drink. Jazzmatsalen serves break- Swedish touch. Menu combines dishes like prime rib burgers bistronorrland.se fast, lunch, à la carte dishes simple dishes with exclusive and fish n’ chips. and cocktails. overall experience. bishopsarms.com/lulea cg hotellsavoy.se bergstromska.com The meat restaurant which uni:k strives to make a strong over- kafelino restaurang Café and restaurant in a home- all impression. Combines the Restaurant with a Greek touch, chowkeeng ly setting. Serves breakfast, spirit of a classic steakhouse with a menu including Italian Indian, Chinese and Korean lunch, dinner and brunch. with local ingredients and pasta and stone baked pizza. cuisine in a cosy setting. Focuses on simple, innovative Italian finesse. kafelino.se chowkeeng.se cuisine prepared from scratch, restaurangcg.se offering raw food fika as well as Norrland tapas. kaptensgården restaurang luleå unikcafe.se cook’s krog Restaurant in Gammelstad Restaurant situated in Traditional meat restaurant Church Town combining clas- Kulturens hus. Offers lunch, inspired by the whole of sical Norrbotten ingredients dinner and the best view in waldorf Lappland. Aims for the highest with international influences town. Luleå’s first and largest standards of food, drink and and flavours. Also hosts Live kulturenshus.com Chinese restaurant. Serves service. Cooking (see page 45). pizzas, traditional fare and á cookskrog.se restaurangkaptensgarden.se la carte dishes. Lunch buffet is a big hit. restaurangwaldorf.se

for more restaurant tips, visit lulea.nu

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 47 SHOPPING GUIDE

Norms mean nothing to Li

When you step in to Li Thurfjell’s Bystigt, you’ll get more than just the city’s best selection of bra sizes. You’ll get a lesson in being happy, just the way you are.

The idea of a well-stocked under- ing to my customers, I always try wear store, with models and sizes to plant the idea that they should be to suit any body, was born in a happy with their bodies and ignore fitting room around 10 years ago. Li norms.” Thurfjell stood there with a lump in her throat, as nothing seemed to fit. All your marketing uses photos She now runs Bystigt, which has an which haven’t been retouched, which What are you ambitions? e-commerce store as well as a shop has drawn a really positive response “I do have a plan: eventually I’d like on Kungsgatan 34, right next door all over Sweden. What’s the story? to have my own collection, and I’m to Girl Cave, her own beauty salon. “I felt like I wanted to do something currently adding another bra brand to about the ghastly ideals which are our selection. I always try to have the Tell us about Bystigt. out there, and I wanted to do it in my best possible range in stock.” ❖ “We have loads of sizes, and really way. This means using real people unusual ones at that. We try to as models, and not retouching the offer something for everyone. 99 photos. I’ve never felt as comfortable Bystigt is open Thursdays 16.00–19.00 and percent of those who come here in my body as when I allowed myself Saturdays 11.00–16.00. You can also book a have the wrong size. When speak- to be photographed in this way.” time to try on products outside these hours.

48 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY SHOPPING GUIDE

Shopping guide

SHOPPING MALLS LOCAL GEMS GUAPO SMEDJAN KLASSISK FORM Offers a wide range of groom- Opened in 2002, and won Klassisk form focuses on ing products and accessories the award for Sweden’s best expertise and timeless quality. for men. Guapo is Norrland’s mall in 2010. Norrbotten’s The store collaborates with first and biggest beauty shop largest mall. Around 30 stores, a number of Scandinavian for men. confectioner and café across designers and local and inter- four floors. national guests. DIVA Fashion store with a carefully STRAND SHOP IN LAPLAND selected range of clothes, Mall with around 20 stores, Located in Gammelstad shoes and accessories. Brands café and restaurant. Includes Church Town, Shop in Lapland stocked include Acne, Filippa the city’s largest ice cream stocks everything from arts K, Dagmar, Rodebjer and BLK joint and Waldorf, the popular and crafts and Sami handicraft DNM. Chinese restaurant. to clothes and delicacies. Made in the region, its products are MOSAIK SHOPPING Norrbotten and Lappland to Clothing and interiors store fo- The world’s first shopping the core. cusing on colours and shapes centre, hit the headlines when for women of all ages, styles it opened in 1955. Now home LAPLAND HEARTWORK and sizes. to around 20 stores, a café and Arts and crafts shop with a gym with generous opening products inspired by Norrbot- TOPSTORE hours. ten and created with passion. Spanning 1,400 square metres, Here you’ll find home interiors, stocks fashion for men, women STORHEDEN jewellery and delicacies, and and children. Brands include Northern Norrland’s largest much more. Gant, Ralph Lauren, Vero Moda retail park can be found on and Jack & Jones. There is an- Storheden, eight kilometres KALLAX GÅRDSBUTIK other TopStore on Storheden. from the centre of Luleå. Cosy farm shop with interior With excellent parking, offers products, vintage items, deli- BYSTIGT/GIRL CAVE everything from home interi- cacies, handicrafts and tea/cof- Underwear store with a wide ors and automotive parts to fee. Owned by siblings Maria, range of products for any body food and fashion. Kristina and Anders Wikström. size. Personal service. Right Also produce their own foods, next door is Girl Cave beauty NOTVIKSSTAN including the queen-of-the- salon, where you can extend Notviksstan retail park can be meadow drink which took your eyelashes or book a time found on the road between silver in the national artisan for a makeover. Storheden and central Luleå. food championships. A long street of shops and department stores, offering ANTIKT OCH UNIKT a wide range of building and Antique shop located in Mörön, garden materials, interiors outside Luleå. Run by Bertil and cars. Huhta and Elizabeth Eriksson. Specialises in furniture and items from 1820–1950, but also stocks products from before and after this period.

for tips on more stores, visit lulea.nu

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 49 ACTIVITY GUIDE

Organised snowball fighting

Did you know that Luleå was a popular venue for Yukigassen? beauty of it and showing dedication. Contests held here include the national championships, and For me, the most enjoyable part of after a few quiet years the Japanese sport is making a come- Yukigassen is that there’s so much back. Adonay Misgina tells us more. to keep track of during a match. And that you can be struck by a snowball So what is Yukigassen? ty of Technology are looking to get in the most unexpected ways!” ❖ “Yukigassen is an organised snowball things going again. What’s the plan? fighting contest played on a court “We’re looking at the possibility of between two teams, each consisting organising the Swedish Yukigassen Interested? Find out more about Yukigassen of seven players. The playing area Championships here again. Among at yukigassen.se. includes a number of barriers behind other things, we ran a tournament which players can hide. If you are during Luleå Big Air in February.” struck, you are eliminated.” How do you become good at Things have been a little quiet on Yukigassen? the Yukigassen front for a while now, “Like any other sport, you become but some students at Luleå Universi- good by having fun, appreciating the

50 ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY ACTIVITY GUIDE

Activity guide

OUTDOORS KLUBBVIKEN BASKETBALL DINNER ON ICE Attraction situated in Luleå archi- Watch the women (Luleå Basket) A beautifully presented gourmet pelago which is open during late and men (BC Luleå) play their dinner served in a Sami cot on winter, as long as the ice roads home matches at Luleå Energi the Bothnian Bay. Snow-filled can carry traffic. klubbviken.se Arena. setting, with candelabras and luleabasket.com, bclulea.se blazing fires. dinneronice.se MÅTTSUND Situated a little outside Luleå, F21 AVIATION MUSEUM GAMMELSTAD CHURCH Måttsund ski resort has three Exhibition featuring planes, TOWN slopes, three lift systems, a ski rescue vehicles, fire engines, 16th Century church town shop and a restaurant. photography and items reflecting celebrating 20 years as a World mattsundsbacken.se F21 history. Only open Thursdays Heritage Site. Explore this 12.00–16.00 historical setting yourself or join ORMBERGET flygmuseetf21.se up with a guided tour. lulea.se/ Luleå’s favourite outdoor recre- gammelstad ation area, with downhill skiing ICE HOCKEY and sleigh slopes as well as cross Watch Luleå Hockey’s men’s and GRÅSJÄLÖREN country skiing tracks. Includes women’s teams play their home Just a stone’s throw from Södra a heating cabin and barbecue matches at the Coop Arena. hamn, this small island is a popu- areas. luleahockey.se lar spot for excursions on sunny lulea.nu late winter days. Coffee and KULTURENS HUS basic food are served. lulea.nu DOG SLED Cultural hub featuring art gallery, Experience the wonderful concert halls and library. Includes HÄGNAN woodland between Piteå and café, restaurant, tourist office and A culturally historical area along- Luleå by dog sled. Go alone or ticnet ticket service. side Gammelstad Church Town. bring along an experienced guide. kulturenshus.se Activities for all ages offered all svedjekojan.se year round. NORRBOTTENS MUSEUM lulea.se/hagnan STADSPARKEN Exhibitions showcasing Norr- Luleå’s lovely park plays host to botten’s cultural history, art and ICE TRACK a theatre, snow sculptures, deco- documentary projects. Includes The most popular winter hiking rative lighting and everything in café and store with handicraft trail, running from Norra hamn between. lulea.se from Norrbotten. to Södra hamn and on to Grås- norrbottensmuseum.se jälören. Go skating, kicksledding SÖDRA VINTERSTRAND or stroll along the snow pathway. Great spot for outdoor games. SF BIO/ROYAL FOLKETS BIO lulea.se Snow castle, wind shelter and Sit back in a cosy armchair and seating and barbecue facilities. enjoy films which touch the soul, ICE DRIVING Events and tea/coffee served entertain and help you escape Drive a sports car on ice togeth- some weekends. reality. sf.se/royalbiografen.se er with a professional rally driver lulea.se on the specially designed tracks SPA at Ebbenjarka. luleå.nu Relax for a while and enjoy INDOORS soothing spa treatments from JOPIKGÅRDEN SWIMMING POOL Hotell Clarion Sense SPA and Jopikgården is situated on Hin- Featuring charming 1950s Savoy SPA. dersön, on the Luleå archipela- architecture, Pontusbadet has clarionsense.se, go. A real gem in summer and pools for exercise and competi- hotellsavoy.se winter alike. tion. Gammelstads Badhus is a popular choice for families, with a relaxation suite and steam sauna. lulea.se

for tips on more activities, visit lulea.nu

ORIGINAL LULEÅ STORY 51 A FAMILY DAY AT SÖDRA STRAND

Every early spring, Luleå Municipality is running Luleå on Ice, where you can try a range of winter activities. For exemple the Obstacle Course on Ice, curling and the Ice Fishing Contest. And also the Ice Hockey Competition and Yukigassen (snowball fight). And there’s much more besides. Raging fires and warming food and drink will help keep the cold at bay. Simply a fantastic winter family day. For the full programme, visit lulea.nu.