Straight Hair Culture and Natural Hair Politics Among Ghanaian Women
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BLACK BODIES, WHITE MASKS?: STRAIGHT HAIR CULTURE AND NATURAL HAIR POLITICS AMONG GHANAIAN WOMEN Amelia AmeDela Amemate A Thesis Submitted to the Graduate College of Bowling Green State University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF ARTS May 2020 Committee: Timothy Messer-Kruse, Advisor Apollos Nwauwa ii ABSTRACT Timothy Messer-Kruse, Advisor Hair straightening and the usage of hair extensions, particularly chemical relaxing and ‘Brazilian’ weaves are common and, in many cases, preferable over natural Afro-textured hair among African women in both the continent and the diaspora. The practice, which has been extensively studied from the African American perspective, is largely explained as (1) a result of internalized racism and self-hate and (2) simply stylization, versatility, and choice. However, even though diasporic and continental Africans share similar hairstyling practices, their historical and cultural situations are not the same. This study looks at Ghanaian women’s hair culture from a whiteness-decentered approach. The goal of the study was to research African women’s hair norms from continental African women’s perspective and find out whether their hair culture could be explained as a result of internalized racism and self-hate or stylization. The study interviewed thirty women. It asks why do they relax their hair and wear hair extensions: whether they are pursuing ‘white beauty’, or they have other reasons why they alter their hair. It found out that Ghanaian women do not relax their hair and wear hair extensions as a result of ‘mental slavery,’ and they do not hate their hair, or perceive white women’s appearance iconic. It also found that hairstyling among Ghanaian women is not simply for stylization; there are specific reasons why they relax their hair and wear weaves. These reasons include the attachment of privileges and benefits to straight hair and stereotypes and consequences to coily hair in Ghanaian society. Contrary to earlier studies that explain African women’s negative relationship with their hair as a result of colonialism and Euro-American influence on the continent, the study iii found out that negative attitudes displayed toward hairstyles like (dread)locks in many African societies stem from pre-colonial traditional cultural norms. iv This work is dedicated to my mother, Evelyn Mama Vordoagu. Thank you for believing in girls' education against all the odds and going the extra mile to make sure I furthered my education. v ACKNOWLEDGMENTS I am thankful to Bowling Green State University, the American Culture Studies Department and the School of Culture and Critical Studies for giving me the opportunity and equipping me with the necessary interdisciplinary skills to study continental African women’s hair culture. I am also grateful to my committee members, Dr. Timothy Messer-Kruse and Dr. Apollos Nwauwa for being patient with me, challenging me to think outside familiar views, and being available even at short notices. vi TABLE OF CONTENTS Page CHAPTER I: INTRODUCTION AND METHODOLOGY ................................................. 1 Introduction ................................................................................................................ 1 Frequently Used Terms and Their Meaning .............................................................. 10 Methodology .............................................................................................................. 12 Paper Outline ............................................................................................................. 18 CHAPTER II: LITERATURE REVIEW AND THEORITICAL FRAMEWORK .............. 19 Explaining African Women’s Hair Straightening: Internalized Racism, Self-Hate and Whiteness Desirability vs. Stylization, Versatility, and Choice ......................... 19 De-Centering Whiteness and Re-Centering Blackness: The Way Forward for African Hair and Black Beauty Studies ..................................................................... 29 CHAPTER III: HISTORICAL BACKGROUND ................................................................. 35 Hairstyling Among African People ........................................................................... 35 The Development and Proliferation of Hair Straightening Among Africans ............ 50 The Hair Situation Among African People Today .................................................... 60 CHAPTER IV: DATA ANALYSIS ...................................................................................... 63 Current Hair Forms Among Ghanaian Women: How Participants Wear Their Hair 64 Identified Factors ....................................................................................................... 68 Part I: Social Norms, Stereotypes, and Privileges: Hair Forms and How They Determine Acceptance and Rejection in Ghanaian Society ...................................... 70 Hair Forms, Education Policies, Racial Undertones and the Politics that Come with Them............................................................................................ 73 vii Religious Affiliation, Social Behavior, and Mental Condition Stereotypes .. 81 Beauty and Gender Stereotypes and Privileges ............................................. 84 What the Male Gaze Has Got to Do with African Hair ................................. 90 Natural Hair, Corporate Work, and Formal Gatherings ................................ 95 Employment and the Consequences of Maintaining Natural Hair ................ 102 Class and Hair Forms ..................................................................................... 104 African Hair and the Paradox of Cost ............................................................ 113 CHAPTER V: FURTHER FINDINGS AND CONCLUSION ............................................. 120 Part II: Other Factors That Emerged .......................................................................... 120 Cultural Identity ............................................................................................. 120 Sources of Influence ...................................................................................... 130 Health Implications and Physical Damage .................................................... 138 Hairdressing and Styling ................................................................................ 143 Availability of Hair Products ......................................................................... 143 The Difficulty of Finding Salons and Hairdressers ....................................... 144 Convenience and Versatility .......................................................................... 149 Conclusion ................................................................................................................. 152 Recap of Major Points of the Study So Far ................................................... 152 Addressing Research Questions ..................................................................... 155 The Role of Whiteness in Understanding African Hair Culture and Politics 161 How Straight Hair Became a Norm and More Desirable Among African Women ........................................................................................................... 165 WORKS CITED .................................................................................................................... 168 viii LIST OF FIGURES Figure Page 1 Photo by: James Barnor; Model: Marie Hallowi; Place: Rochester; Year: 1966 ...... 43 2 Photo by: James Barnor; Model: Rosemarie Thompson; Place: London; Year: 1966-1967 .................................................................................................................. 43 3 Photo by: James Barnor; Model: James Barnor’s cousin; Place: London; Year: 1964 .................................................................................................................. 43 4 Photo by: James Barnor; Model: Mohammed Ali surrounded by his fans; Place: London; Year: 1966 ................................................................................................... 44 5 Photo by: James Barnor; Model: A shop assistant at the Sick-Hagemeyer store; Place: Accra; Year: 1971 ........................................................................................... 45 6 Photo by: James Barnor; Model: A Wedding at Holy Trinity Cathedral; Place: Accra; Year: 1970-1980 ............................................................................................. 45 7 Photo by: James Barnor; Model: A group of children, after Sunday Church Service at Holy Trinity Cathedral; Place: Accra; Year: Early 1970s ..................................... 45 8 Photo by: James Barnor; Model: Blavo and friends at a Youth Development Club Party; Place: Scout Headquarters, Accra, Ghana; Year: 1953 ................................... 46 9 Photo by: James Barnor; Model: Woman posing in swim wear from London; Place: Accra; Year: 1972 ........................................................................................... 47 1 CHAPTER I: INTRODUCTION AND METHODOLOGY Introduction The Yoruba of Southwestern Nigeria believes that the head, which hair is a major part of, is the most important part of the human body. So, they say ‘Orilonise’ and “Ori inu mi ko ba ti ode je” (Lawal 93, 95), meaning the head determines whether one succeeds or fails in life, and may one’s thoughts not spoil their outer look. Cultural groups all over Africa share the view of the Yoruba. Long before major