The Great Málaga Path

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de MALAGA TOPOGRAPHICALGR-249 GUIDE This guide is one of the end products of the IDARA European Project; it is sponsored by the Diputación de Malaga within the POCTEFEX program financed 75% by FEDER.

PUBLISHED BY: EDITORIAL LA SERRANÍA, SL C/ Tomilla, 55 29400 Ronda (Málaga) www.laserrania.org

TEXTS AND COORDINATION: C. Carlos Guerrero Barragán

PHOTOGRAPHS: C. Carlos Guerrero Barragán & Diputación Provincial de Málaga

First Edition: june de 2014

ISBN: 978-00-0000-000-0 Legal Deposit: MA-000-2014

THIS COPY IS NOT FOR SALE Printed in Andalucía by: Imagraf Impresores The guide at hand is meant to resemble an imaginary conversation held between the author and you, the user of the GR-249 path, during the entire time the book was being written. In the end, this text serves no purpose unless it can answer questions or predict what information might be needed and this has been the greatest focus of the work on the guide.

On the other hand, the guide is also a chronicle of the results of the work performed by a team of people who designed, built, sign-posted and maintained the path. Without their efforts the path would not exist.

We hope to be able to show how this path teaches us certain essentials and we also hope to pass on the deep love and respect we all feel towards our land, the land which in a way is closer to you now as well, thanks to this newly-created footpath.

Welcome and join in the adventure of La Gran Senda de Málaga - The Great Málaga Path. INDEX

PRESENTATION...... 9 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE...... 10 BASIC INFORMATION ON LA GRAN SENDA DE MÁLAGA...... 20 USEFUL ADDRESSES...... 22 MAPS...... 25

I.- La Gran Senda de Málaga on the eastern Costa del Sol ...... 66 1 Málaga – Rincón de la Victoria...... 70 2 Rincón de la Victoria – Vélez Málaga...... 80 3 Vélez Málaga – Torrox...... 90 4 Torrox – Nerja...... 98

II.- The GR- 249 through The Natural Park of Sierras de Tejeda, Alhama and Almijara 106 5 Nerja – Frigiliana...... 110 6 Frigiliana – Cómpeta...... 116 7 Cómpeta – Canillas de Aceituno...... 124 8 Canillas de Aceituno – Periana...... 132

III.- “The Limestone Arch” and La Gran Senda de Málaga ...... 138 9 Periana – Alfarnatejo (Pulgarín Alto)...... 142 10 Alfarnatejo (Pulgarín Alto) – Alfarnate...... 148 11 Alfarnate – Villanueva del Rosario...... 154 12 Villanueva del Rosario – Archidona...... 160

IV.- The Gran Senda de Málaga through the vast olive groves ...... 166 13 Archidona – Villanueva de Tapia...... 170 14 Villanueva de Tapia – Villanueva de Algaidas...... 176 15 Villanueva de Algaidas – Cuevas Bajas...... 182 16 Cuevas Bajas – Alameda...... 188 17 Alameda – Fuente de Piedra...... 194 V.- In the land of lagoons ...... 200 18 Fuente de Piedra – Campillos...... 204 19 Campillos – Campillos (Embalses del Guadalhorce)...... 210

VI.- Desﬁ ladero de los Gaitanes Natural Reserve ...... 216 20 Campillos (Embalses del Guadalhorce) – Álora (Estación de El Chorro)... 220 21 Álora (Estación de El Chorro) – Ardales...... 228

VII.- The Turón River and The Sierra de las Nieves ...... 236 22 Ardales – El Burgo...... 238 23 El Burgo – Ronda...... 244

VIII.- From The Guadalevín to Guadiaro Rivers ...... 252 24 Ronda – Estación de Benaoján...... 256 25 Estación de Benaoján – Jimera de Líbar...... 264 26 Jimera de Líbar – Benalauría...... 272

IX.- The Genal River ...... 280 27 Benalauría – Genalguacil...... 284 28 Genalguacil – Casares...... 292

X.- The western Costa del Sol and the coastal mountain ranges ...... 302 29 Casares – Estepona...... 306 30 Estepona – Marbella...... 316 31 Marbella – Ojén...... 326 32 Ojén – Mijas...... 334 33 Mijas – Benalmádena...... 344 34 Benalmádena – Alhaurín de la Torre...... 352 35 Alhaurín de la Torre – Málaga...... 360 PRESENTATION

8 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga PRESENTATION

Presentation

opoguía” is a new term in the Spanish have been transformed by human activity and “ language formed by the Greek words yet manage to maintain a balance between T“topos” meaning a place and “guía” protected areas and areas which have no meaning guide. This type of guide is not only legal protection but offer certain environ- designed to physically guide you but also mental values. Moreover, agricultural areas to describe the geography, topography and and some urban areas are vital to allow an toponymy of places it takes you to. Topography understanding of the use of the land and the describes the special features of the terrain layout of the Gran Senda, as is the historical and toponymy is a study of the origin and footprint of different times left along the meaning of local place names. paths, unpaved tracks, drover´s roads and The goal of the Topographical Guide of The narrow lanes. Gran Senda de Málaga is to describe each of The diversity of environmental units and the stages of the path while interpreting the landscapes of the province is reﬂ ected in the territory through analysis and explanations, series of 35 stages proposed in the guide, treating the path as a sum of many places. placing side by side the perception of the In this sense the present work, additional physical environment and its cultural aspects to being a technical guide to the 35 stages of in a suggestive mix of questions, emotions the itinerary also offers a detailed description of its natural values, pointing out the relevant and understanding which one experiences elements which are interesting from an envi- when following footpaths and taking in the ronmental or a cultural point of view. surroundings: the vegetation, climate and The guide has a dynamic and open style different seasons; walking at dawn, dusk or and maintains a uniform structure when midday. This kind of interpretation can be describing each stage of the itinerary. The found in the careful execution of this guide. contents are accessible to anyone who wants Coordinating and technical supervision of to take on this walking project and explore the “Gran Senda de Málaga “: the most diverse landscapes of the Málaga Juan José López Rosa province. An obvious advantage of this project Saturnino Moreno Borrell is the various formats of the guide available Jacinto Segura Moreno to the walker. Sandra Trujillo González Málaga is a province of Mediterranean Patricia Ruiz Reyes Andalucía and its location helps explain its Carlos Fernández Plaza special characteristics. Many of its features Carlos Vasserot Antón

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 9 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

The delta of Arroyo de la Cala, Stage 30 in Estepona

HowHow toto useuse thisthis guideguide

THE TOPOGHRAPHICAL GUIDE OF THE GRAN SENDA DE MÁLAGA the ones which are conspicuous or have been This guide has been made available by establishing over time. There will be times the Diputacíon Provincial de Málaga (Málaga when more attention will be paid to the subject Province Council) for the public to use on the of agriculture, urban areas or, for example, the GR- 249 Grand Senda de Málaga footpath and fl ora, depending on what the particular area has been published using the parameters of the dictates. Luckily and preferably, other parts of Federación Andaluza de Montaña (Andalucían the book will be able to centre on the balance Mountain Federation) which certifi es footpaths between human and natural factors, resulting in our autonomous region of Spain, Andalucía. in an integral whole. The GR (Gran Recorrido, meaning a long distance In any case, Malaga landscapes are ephe- path) has been granted two names. The part meral in their changes and it is quite possible which spans the northern part of the province, that once a walker will have completed a part inland from Nerja to Casares, in reality should be of the footpath, that part will already start called E4-GR7-GR 249 whilst the coastal crossing changing. This is to say that you cannot walk in the south from Casares to Nerja should be the same path twice in the same manner: plants referred to as E12-GR92-GR 249. However, for fl ower and wilt, rocks crumble and fall, the sea practical purposes we have uniformly used the creates new passage ways or the path ends up name GR-249 for easier reading. being harrowed by rain. The path is different in autumn and in spring. Countless events are The Guide´s Approach transforming it even now, especially taking into The idea of the guide is to bring the territory the account how extensive the itinerary is. In to the walkers and help them understand the reading the following description of the path most relevant aspects of the landscape they it should be taken as a portrait of it in a certain pass through during each of the 35 stages the time and place. The Great Path of Málaga will project consists of. not be the same for the walker and the team In order to achieve this, a global approach who enjoyed it as they designed, prepared and has been attempted which focuses on distin- described it. Its dynamic ability to change should guishing features of the landscape as well as be treated as one of the path´s core values.

10 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

Structure of the Guide Each block of the walking stages described The technical information is abundant further in the guide begins with an introduction and diverse, presented as a separate fi le. which attempts to provide an environmental This way the information on LONGITUDE, description of the land, concentrating on the elevations, start and fi nish points, access aspects, processes and places you discover and map references can be easily located. thanks to the Gran Senda footpath. Two charts identify other features of the The contents of each stage of the walk have walk. First deals with the difficulty level been split into many sections to facilitate fi nding and any possible dangers using the MIDE information and make the text easier to digest. tool, described later on. Then the type of The text of the 35 chapters cover sport- surface has been categorised depending on related aspects of the walk, as one shouldn´t its hardness or capability to absorb impact forget that walking is a physical activity: the text underfoot, namely: asphalt/concrete, dirt also stresses the environmental issues and is tracks and paths. Their length is shown in written with a tourist in mind, as the users of the kilometres on the corresponding icons. The GR-249, no matter where they will be coming fourth icon shows the number of river fords from, will be using the walk´s infrastructure as and stream crossings which lack a bridge or visitors, where they will try to fi nd a connection where the bridge access may be unreliable. with the land, where they will eat, sleep and Another chapter describes links to other interact with the people and landscapes. walks, either certifi ed or not certifi ed walking Each stage begins with a brief description paths which can be useful not only as possible accompanied by a few paragraphs describing “escape routes” but also as alternative ways the highlights of this part of the itinerary to to add on to the itinerary, and, occasionally, prepare the walker for what´s coming and convert it into a circular walk. alert them to the selected features. These two The mapping database used belongs to sections should allow the visitor to get quite a the selection of maps “Mapa Topográfico close idea of what the stage of the walk will Nacional de España”, scale 1:25 000, Instituto be like in general. Geográfi co Nacional.

Cork oak forest on the Loma de Benajarón, Stage 28 Genalguacil-Casares

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A special section talks exclusively about the walk; the points chosen constitute either water. Firstly, because we happen to be the most striking landmarks of the terrain or within the range of the Idara Project, and most relevant elements of the environment secondly because Andalucía in general must and heritage of the area. address more and more seriously the use About the language used of its scarce water resources. Furthermore, Except for a few isolated cases, the text the watercourses in the summer are places is free from an overload of scientific names where walkers can rest and freshen up and of plants and animals found along the route; at the same time these places host fauna at most the scientifi c names are quoted a few and fl ora communities which require a very times in parenthesis and using italics. It is special type of conservation. In any event, understood that repeating them successively the fl uvial valleys are the backbone of the is not necessary. In order to avoid confusion common names accepted in Spain have been Málaga region from a geographical point of used, however these names usually do not view, as sources of drinking water and as correspond with local names. the water supply for industry. The idea of this guide is to be useful, and this The description of the route itself, and is why the text may seem quite dense. Briefness also the longest chapter of the guide, has of descriptions has been sacrifi ced in favour been divided into uniform sections to make of information. Relaxed reading of the entire the reading more pleasant and facilitate the chapter is recommended before you set off for comprehension of the surroundings one passes your day of walking. The same philosophy has through. The type of navigation used is mainly been applied to the selection of photographs. focusing on key points without too detailed Images of animals, rare plants or diverse weather descriptions of the junctions, considering the conditions have been traded for landscapes and fact that the itinerary is waymarked and also photos taken from the very path, the intention there is the possibility of downloading tracks being that the walker will recognize the area for GPS and mobile phones. As an additional through these images and they will serve as ID aid to navigating there is a list of waypoints photos enabling the walker to put a name to the at the end of the description of each stage of most signifi cant places of the route.

The coastal stage leads you through the sierras very close to the sea

12 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

Tall poplars reach for the sky from one of the many riverside groves of the GR-249

THE PROVINCE SEEN THROUGH THE GRAN SENDA DE MÁLAGA which could be improved; it does so with almost Although it comes close, the GR -249 cannot a clinical detachment. Such detachment could possibly portray the heritage features cha- be considered one of the best features of this racteristic for the province 100% accurately, enormous work that came to light in 2014. Urban given the fact that the route only circles the planning and construction have not always been province in a long line. The guide does not successful in the province, neither, at times, has focus only on the areas protected by “La Red the management of the natural environment and de los Espacios Naturales Protegidos” or The heritage. However this also reﬂ ects the people Network of Protected Natural Areas. Covering and land of Málaga, which this guide depicts such protected areas exclusively would offer a just the way they are. perspective biased towards places which have been conserved in the best manner. Instead, La The route and its stages Gran Senda de Málaga leads through the least The description of the legs or stages of the expected corners which results in a surprising walk has been established as anticlockwise, and unprecedented itinerary. which means that the starting point is the capital You will see urban, rural and natural Málaga; in of the province, Málaga, from km zero, and then mountain, coastal and agricultural environments. you head east towards the eastern part of the The Great Málaga Path offers an amazing range Costa del Sol. The total of 35 stages have been of landscapes, marked by the endeavours of its divided into 10 blocks to structure the text and people and the fertility of nature; the joint result each block shows enough identity to be trea- of millennia of history. ted as a uniﬁ ed territory, sometimes due to its The guide shows the province in all respects: administrative borders and, more often, merely those of which Málaga can be proud and those due to the geographical features.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 13 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

to 57.3 km of the “campiña”, which is a term for cultivated rolling hills, and the lagoons in the north of Málaga province. El Paraje Natural de Desﬁ ladero de los Gaitanes, a natural reserve, has earned 38.5 km and 2 stages, while the next 2 are designed to reach Ronda following the banks of the Turón River and its tributaries for about 47 km. Continuing the voyage to the southwest, the region of the Serrania de Ronda has been sectioned into 3 stages of 37.8 km along the Guadiaro Valley heading south, and 2 more stages (32.1 km) through the Genal Valley where Benalauria village is the turning point to reach Casares. The western Costa del Sol is described in the last and longest seven stages of 159.9 km, taking you back east again.

RECCOMENDATIONS FOR WALKING THE GR-249 Clothing and accessories What clothing the walker will use depends completely on the place, the time of the year and the climate, not to mention physical and mental capabilities or even personal likes and dislikes of each walker. In general, it is an accepted fact that one The tower called Casasola or de Baños, of Moorish origins must use adequate clothing, especially designed for the outdoors, the main item being sports footwear and walking boots for the mountain The Great Málaga Path heads east during sections of the walk. All the clothing must be 4 stages (69.6km) along the eastern part of the breathable and thermo-insulated: long trousers Costa del Sol, arrives at Nerja to lead away from will protect you from plants and animals and the the coast and turns north-east during the next trousers should offer fl exibility of movement. 4 stages, 83.2 km in total, through Sierra de Various light tops should be warn in layers which Tejeda, Almijara and Aljama. Next, starting in you can shed one by one when walking, and Periana, there are 47 km in 3 stages which are you should always fi nish your layers off with northbound and cross the Central Limestone Arch a wind-proof jacket. ending up in Villanueva del Rosario. Southern Andalucía can be sunny even in The 83.6 km walking tour of the Northeast winter season and the sun can turn into a formi- Málaga province region is divided into 5 stages, dable adversary for a walker. You must always each one starting and fi nishing in a village, wear a cloth hat and use sunblock. Light gloves, and it takes you west to Alameda. There are 3 a neck gaiter or a scarf, collapsible walking poles routes from Alameda to Campillos amounting and extra socks are always recommended in

14 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE seasons with diffi cult weather conditions. Your best approach would be to study carefully all rucksack should be bought with walking in mind the details of each stage and walk accordingly and should be designed for your body type. The to all the specifi cations. rucksack should contain two litres of water as a You must be able to predict when you should minimum, food for the day, notes for the stage arrive back at your starting point or reach your of the walk, a charged mobile phone with a accommodation at your fi nish point. This should spare battery (the all-emergencies number in be calculated and planned well in advance Spain is 112) and a medical kit according to taking into consideration that this GR is new what each walker needs. and still hasn´t been used often enough to Using GPS or Smartphone apps with global offer facilities with great ease. Obviously, in positioning system will help you navigate in the the mountains and small villages this can get natural environment, especially in the mountains, a bit more complicated. and will be useful to those who are not familiar Should you fi nd a dead animal, especially with the Málaga Province area. livestock, on your way, it would be a good idea to note down or take a photo of the plastic Other recommendations ID tag which you will normally fi nd on both Málaga is well known as an excellent pro- ears of the animal, plus some description of vince for birdwatching and for plant lovers. its location, in case you happen to meet the Any time of the year offers flowering plant livestock owner. In case of any issues involving species. It is recommended to devote some of wild animals or plants, it is advisable to report your attention to these fundamental natural them to SEPRONA (Guardia Civil branch dedi- resources of the walk. cated to environmental problems). In order to The average length of the GR-249 stage is report any imperfections or need to improve the about 19 kilometres and the altitude gained walk´s infrastructure, contact Agentes de Medio is above 450 metres in average. Some of the Ambiente (Environmental Agency Employees) stages are quite hard while others are easy. The or the Gran Senda de Málaga team.

Sierra Crestellina and the forests of Valle de Genal from the Cuesta de las Viñas in Stage 28

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 15 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

THE GREAT MÁLAGA PATH LEAVES NO TRACE BEHIND The Málaga Province Council has painstakin- which not only contaminate, but also create gly researched and has come to agreement with an unpleasant visual impact. All rubbish must the people who might possibly be negatively be disposed of in rubbish bins, especially if it affected when the Gran Senda public paths are isn´t biodegradable. In any case, bodily waste used exclusively for walking. However, it should should be buried in a hole in the ground or at be clear that using the walk´s infrastructure least covered up with leaves and rocks. The only gives you the right to walk and rest. Along next walker will be grateful. both sides of the paths there are private or All gates, be it post-and-wire openings in public properties which should not suffer any fences or any other type of gates, must be closed consequences of a badly-conceived outdoors behind you, especially if there is a notice asking activity. You should apply the guideline “don´t you to do so (“cerrar” or “cierren la puerta”). In leave anything and don´t take anything”, as some cases a gate could be open temporarily this way you can avoid misunderstandings. for the livestock; however it is recommended The orchards, farms and farmland constitute to close such gates after you walk through as means of an additional (if not sole) income for well. Gates for domestic animals are especially the locals. The GR-249 user will walk only a frequent around the Serranía de Ronda. Livestock few metres away from avocado, orange and has priority. Always, wherever possible, walk olive trees and they all belong to someone. around livestock in order to avoid bothering Fortunately, the “malagueños” tend to be very the animals as they graze or rest. At times, open people and willing to share some fruit. frightened livestock might not see any other There is always the possibility to buy some way of escape other than getting on the same farm products at good prices along the way. path as the walker which could be potentially One of the most frequent environmentally dangerous. Normally, if the walker slows down negative effects produced by uncaring walkers and waits, the animals will ﬁ nd a way to get are bits of toilet paper, tissues and wet wipes, away in a digniﬁ ed manner. The lagoons are the most fragile ecosystems of all the ones you are going to visit, but also A boundless olive grove which forms part of the walk they are extremely attractive. The priority in the north of the province here always needs to be the preservation of the fauna and flora. Although they may be locally abundant, lagoon inhabitants have a very restricted and fragmented distribution in Andalucía. If any places deserve extremely careful behaviour, it would be the lagoon habitats where one must interfere in the minimum way possible and spend as little time as possible along the shores, especially the ones which lack protective barriers. Please note that picking plants or bothering animal life is prohibited, especially in nature reserves and protected areas.

1616 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

A ﬂ ock of seagulls resting on the beach shore

ABOUT DATA GATHERING AVOIDING POTENTIAL AND PROCESSING DANGERS The data found in the header of each The main tool which summarises the dan- walk in the guide containing technical gers and diffi culties of each stage of the walk information has been gathered by the same is the MIDE system (Método de Información team of people every time, using the same de Excursiones). This is a standardised tool equipment. The model of GPS used was which condenses basic information and this a mid-range product made by a leading way leaves minimum room for doubts and manufacturer on the market, with a good gets close to presenting a realistic view of the price-quality ratio. The intention is not to itinerary (see useful links chapter, page 23). The hamper the possibility of access to the MIDE system is presented as numbered icons. provided accurate data through inability There are four icons, and they show the four to purchase the equipment. The data was fundamental parameters of the walks, which processed using equipment which does not sometimes are further sub-divided. The four require installation of any programmes in icons appear in the following order: roughness of your computer (see useful links chapter page the environment, navigation, walking diffi culty, 22). You will only need to insert the GPS effort required. data using the website in order to obtain the The scale is 1-5 from least signifi cant to map database and corresponding statistics. very signifi cant. Data referring to descents and ascents In the description of each stage there is can be particularly conflictive when different a chapter specifi cally devoted to prevention programmes are used. In this particular case of accidents or any mishaps. Although it is a different, frequently used tool has been impossible to foresee each and every potentially applied. What´s important is the fact that dangerous circumstance, it´s been attempted the correspondence between the data of to predict the most common eventualities. different stages is proportional as it has Nevertheless, problem sections may be en- been collected and processed using the countered on the walk on occasion, though they same means. could be corrected by public or private means.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 17 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

In another section it has been attempted the GR. Attention: pets should always be to establish the No Return Point, a place kept on a leash, especially if they are not where it is advised to push on rather than accustomed to livestock and get overexcited. return, considering the effort or time required An uncontrollable stampede can cause a car to reach the fi nal stage (or a point where or train accident. Cows get very agitated you could leave the walk). Also, alternative around dogs and they may attack. routes are provided as well as possible “es- Take care passing through cattle grids, cape routes” leading to roads and populated especially on horseback; there usually are areas. In any case, the best thing to do is to side gates adapted for animals and these always listen to your common sense when gates need to be used. When it rains, the your alarm bells go off. metal bars of a cattle grid can get very slip- Small and big game hunting is an activity pery and cause an accident. The fords across which carries a lot of weight in Málaga. Take rivers and streams should be approached special care around places where hunts are with the Mediterranean climate in mind: on and on days when hunting season starts. rain falls mainly in autumn and spring and A walker should be clearly visible and easy occasionally it becomes torrential, which to spot in such cases, wearing or carrying can result in real danger around rising water refl ective items and not leaving the paths and levels along the river beds. silently entering the forests. It is always a Normally the various river crossings are good idea to walk in a group and this way well accounted for and sign-posted but there be more visible. are many situations which could render the Local fauna which could be potentially crossings unpredictable. These obstacles dangerous includes a species of a viper which are particularly signifi cant in the Serranía de in reality is very diffi cult to see, however it is Ronda area which has the highest rainfall in somewhat more frequent in the sierras and the province and along the coastal section of scrubby mountain slopes. the walk between Estepona and Marbella. Other animals which are better avoided are You shouldn´t drink from the fountains big game such as wild boar as well as some and springs which contain non-potable water insect species: the particularly dangerous and tend to be marked as such with a sign. scorpions, scolopendras, and colonial wasps, Drinking from spring water is discouraged are all active in the summer. Bees need to not due to bad water quality, which is often be treated with respect. Although they are quite to the contrary, if not the lack of health accustomed to passing humans, they are still control and the fact that the walker may be wild animals. All bee hive areas are registered not accustomed to drinking untreated water. and sign-posted as potentially dangerous. The greatest danger in the Mediterranean You need to take into account the fact that environment is posed by forest fi res. In the you will walk by several bee colonies along unlikely case of a fire erupting while you are on the walk you need to contact the emergency telephone number 112. It is cru- Three walk stages cross the land of the lagoons cial to be able to describe where you are in order to supply all the necessary details of what you are doing and how you can leave or evacuate. It is totally prohibited to light fi res or campfi res in the countryside especially from May to October.

18 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

SIGN-POSTING Mountain Federation can be identified by The Málaga Province Council has provided the colour-coded signs which are quite the GR-249 with the necessary information easy to interpret. GR colour code is red panels with general data at the beginning and white. These signs, complemented by and end of a stage of the walk, and whe- arrows indicating direction, tell you where re sometimes other GR trails meet. The to continue straight ahead, turn or not to footpaths approved by the Andalucían enter a wrong path.

Signs indicating the GR-249 are complemented by other public path signs with their different colour codes

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 1919 BASIC INFORMATION ON LA GRAN SENDA DE MÁLAGA

SUMMARY OF THE BASIC DATA data processing tools most frequently applied FOR THE GRAN SENDA by walkers. The data can vary from the ones obtained by walkers of the Gran Senda due to The summery of all the number data of the speciﬁ cations of the GPS terminals or the appli- Gran Senda de Málaga has been prepared using cations they happen to have.

L H Nº NAME á(m) â(m) H min T MIDE (km) max 1 Málaga – Rincón de la Victoria 15.6 40 35 23 0 3h 20´ 1.1.1.3

Rincón de la Victoria – 2 24.4 70 50 37 0 5h 25´ 1.2.1.3 Vélez Málaga

3 Vélez Málaga – Algarrobo 19.1 180 125 125 0 4h 10´ 1.2.1.3

4 Algarrobo – Torrox – Nerja 10.5 300 345 265 28 3h 15´ 1.2.2.3

5 Nerja – Frigiliana 14.7 765 600 565 142 5h 5´ 3.2.2.3

6 Frigiliana – Cómpeta 26.4 1.065 680 1.180 290 8h 30´ 3.2.2.4

Cómpeta – Canillas de 7 25.1 1.070 1.040 858 465 8h 30´ 2.2.2.4 Aceituno

8 Canillas de Aceituno – Periana 17.0 620 690 640 300 5h 35´ 1.2.2.3

Periana – Alfarnatejo 9 13.5 415 320 880 590 3h 30´ 1.2.1.3 (Pulgarín Alto)

Alfarnatejo (Pulgarín Alto) – 10 18.1 540 360 895 548 4h 35´ 1.2.2.3 Alfarnate

Alfarnate – 11 15.4 590 770 1.387 695 5h 15´ 3.2.2.3 Villanueva del Rosario

Villanueva del Rosario – 12 18.5 365 360 830 630 5h 20´ 2.2.2.3 Archidona

Archidona – 13 17.1 170 205 750 625 3h 50´ 1.2.1.3 Villanueva de Tapia

Villanueva de Tapia – 14 16.7 375 510 895 525 4h 15´ 1.2.1.3 Villanueva de Algaidas

Villanueva de Algaidas – 15 10.1 260 460 705 330 2h 45´ 1.1.1.2 Cuevas Bajas

16 Cuevas Bajas – Alameda 21.2 310 125 500 325 4h 45´ 2.1.1.3

17 Alameda – Fuente de Piedra 18.6 60 160 550 415 3h 55´ 1.1.1.3

20 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga BASIC INFORMATION ON LA GRAN SENDA DE MÁLAGA

L H Nº NAME á(m) â(m) H min T MIDE (km) max rder as in the text 18 Fuente de Piedra – Campillos 15.7 125 50 475 390 3h 20´ 1.1.1.3

Campillos – Campillos 19 23.0 255 360 515 355 5h 15´ 2.2.2.3 (Embalses del Guadalhorce)

Campillos (Embalses del 20 Guadalhorce) – Álora 22.0 680 802 845 225 6h 05´ 2.2.2.4 (Estación de El Chorro)

Álora (Estación de El Chorro) – 21 16.5 635 485 595 220 4h 30´ 1.2.2.3 Ardales

22 Ardales – El Burgo 22.8 570 360 815 348 5h 35´ 1.1.1.3

23 El Burgo – Ronda 24.2 720 515 1.160 550 7h 25´ 3.2.2.4

24 Ronda – Estación de Benaoján 12.8 225 515 715 420 3h 55´ 1.2.2.3

Estación de Benaoján – 25 9.7 190 280 520 390 2h 55´ 1.2.2.2 Jimera de Líbar

26 Jimera de Líbar – Benalauría 15.3 750 560 1.008 385 4h 30´ 2.2.2.3

27 Benalauría – Genalguacil 11.6 370 540 670 195 3h 50´ 1.2.2.3

28 Genalguacil – Casares 20.5 770 880 640 128 5h 45´ 2.2.2.3

29 Casares – Estepona 32.8 915 1.285 515 10 10h 25´ 2.2.2.5

30 Estepona – Marbella 27.1 150 135 15 0 7h 00´ 1.1.2.4

31 Marbella – Ojén 17.0 930 645 517 2 5h 55´ 2.2.2.3

32 Ojén – Mijas 39.8 1.190 1.020 636 18 10h 15´ 2.2.2.5 (m): Accumulated descent metres • H max/min: Altitude maximum/minimum • T: Time MIDE • MIDE: Numerical parameters in the same o Time (m): Accumulated descent metres • H max/min: Altitude maximum/minimum T: â 33 Mijas – Benalmádena 18.0 750 1.000 925 235 6h 15´ 2.2.2.4

Benalmádena – 34 12.3 440 620 650 125 4h 10´ 2.2.2.3 Alhaurín de la Torre

35 Alhaurín de la Torre – Málaga 12.9 0 21 25 0 2h 35´ 1.1.1.2

TOTAL 656 16.860 16.908 1.387 0 182h 05´ (*) (m): Accumulated ascent metres •

AVERAGE 18.7 478 482 (*) Averages of the MIDE system are measured á in decimals, thus they must be understood as approximate results. The results are:

1,5 . 1,8 . 1,6 . 3,2 L: Length •

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 21 USEFUL ADDRESSES FOR THE GR

USEFUL ADDRESSES FOR THE GR This short selection of useful links includes a QR of the links are in Spanish only however they may code and a brief description. (*)Translators note: some contain easy to follow local information.

This is the main Gran Senda http://www.gransendademalaga.es de Málaga website, updated regularly.

The website of Diputación Provincial deMálaga, the Málaga Province Council, http://www.malaga.es/es/turismo/ contains information in four languages about the Province.

Diputación Provincial de http://www.birdingmalaga.es/ Málaga website, promoting birdwatching tourism.

The website of the Andalucían Mountain Federation, La Federación http://www.fedamon.com/ Andaluza de Montaña contains information on all the legal public footpaths described in the text.

Website allowing you to browse http://www.juntadeandalucia.es/ through the network of protected nature medioambiente/servtc5/ventana/entrar. reserves many of which you walk do?lr=lang_es through as you follow the GR-249.

Agencia Estatal de http://www.aemet.es/es/portada Meteorología is an ofﬁ cial weather channel website for Spain.

The tool for GPS data processing used http://utrack.crempa.net/index_es.php in the text.

Website containing a great database of http://www.conocetusfuentes.com/ natural spring locations in Andalucía, home.php many of these springs are located near the walk.

22 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga USEFUL ADDRESSES FOR THE GR

Helpful site to identify and learn more http://www.ﬂ oravascular.com/ about the ﬂ ora species of Málaga.

Excellent and highly recommended http://www.cilniana.org/ website which protects historical heritage of The Costa del Sol.

Dedicated to a variety of interesting http://www.iluana.com/ subjects such as history, nature and sports.

Pasos Largos is one of the most senior organisations dedicated to walking in http://www.pasoslargos.com/ Andalucía with many active members and a variety of walks to choose from.

Information on the standardised system used to describe walk parameters: http://www.montanasegura.com/ Método de Información de Excursiones (MIDE), and applications used to calculate it.

Superb website about the cave, its http://www.cuevadenerja.es/ location, and its surroundings.

The ﬁ rst two stages of the walk are close to this cave system, which is http://www.complejohumo.org/ essential for understanding Malaga´s prehistoric times.

The walk stops only a few metres away from this cave in Guadalteba area, http://www.cuevadeardales.com/ where guided walks are organised and where there is a museum.

A few kilometres from Benaoján, there http://www.cuevadelapileta.org/ is the Pileta cave boasting spectacular cave paintings.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 23 USEFUL ADDRESSES FOR THE GR

There are seven of “Los Grupos de Desarrollo and focus on such local subjects as footpaths, Rural” or Groups for the Rural Development natural environment issues and often supply in Málaga Province which, together with the information on their website which could be local community councils “Mancomunidades de interesting to the GR -249 users. Here are Municipios”, take care of the area´s interests their websites:

Centro de Desarrollo Rural de la http://www.cederaxarquia.org Comarca de la Axarquía.

Centro de Desarrollo Rural de la http://www.cederserraniaderonda.com Serranía de Ronda.

Grupo de Desarrollo Rural de la Comarca http://www.guadalteba.com del Guadalteba.

http://www.antequera.com/gadlcant. Homepage of Grupo de Desarrollo Rural html de Antequera.

Issues of rural development of the Valle http://www.valledelguadalhorce.com del Guadalhorce.

http://www.mancomunidad.org/es/ Local information of Mancomunidad inicio de Municipios de la Costa del Sol Occidental (western Costa del Sol).

Grupo De Desarrollo Rural de la Sierra http://www.sierranieves.com/ de las Nieves.

http://www.nororma.com/ Information on the north-west of Malaga Province.

24 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MAPS

MAPS

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 25 MAPS

22 21

23 24

27 32 31 28

30 29

26 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MAPS

15 16

14 17

12 11 10

9 8 7

6 5

3 4 1 2 35 34

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 27 MAPS

28 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MAPS

STAGE 1: MÁLAGA - RINCÓN DE LA VICTORIA Description on page: 70 Time: 3 h 20 min Length: 15,6 km

STAGE 2: RINCÓN DE LA VICTORIA - VÉLEZ MÁLAGA Description on page: 80 Time: 5 h 25 min • Length: 24,4 km

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 29 MAPS

STAGE 3: VÉLEZ MÁLAGA - TORROX Description on page: 90 Time: 4 h 10 min Length: 19,1 km

30 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MAPS

STAGE 4: TORROX - NERJA Description on page: 98 Time: 3 h 15 min • Length: 10,5 km

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 31 MAPS

STAGE 5: NERJA - FRIGILIANA Description on page: 110 Time: 5 h 5 min • Length: 14,7 km

32 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MAPS

STAGE 6: FRIGILIANA - CÓMPETA Description on page: 116 Time: 8 h 30 min Length: 26,4 km

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 33 MAPS

STAGE 7: CÓMPETA - CANILLAS DE ACEITUNO Description on page: 124 Time: 8 h 30 min Length: 25,1 km

STAGE 8: CANILLAS DE ACEITUNO - PERIANA Description on page: 132 Time: 5 h 35 min Length: 17 km

3434 GR-249GR-249 (E 7) Gran Senda de Málaga MAPS

GR-249 Gran(E 7) GranSenda Senda de Málaga de Málaga 3535 MAPS

STAGE 9: PERIANA - ALFARNATEJO (Pulgarín Alto) Description on page: 142 Time: 3 h 30 min Length: 13,5 km

STAGE 11: ALFARNATE - VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO Description on page: 154 Time: 5 h 15 min Length: 15,4 km

36 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MAPS

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 37 MAPS

STAGE 10: ALFARNATEJO (Pulgarín Alto) - ALFARNATE Description on page: 148 Time: 4 h 35 min Length: 18,1 km

38 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MAPS

STAGE 12: VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO - ARCHIDONA Description on page: 160 Time: 5 h 20 min Length: 18,5 km

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 39 MAPS

STAGE 13: ARCHIDONA - VILLANUEVA DE TAPIA Description on page: 170 Time: 3 h 20 min Length: 17,1 km

40 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MAPS

STAGE 15: VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDAS - CUEVAS BAJAS Description on page: 182 Time: 2 h 45 min Length: 10,1 km

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 41 MAPS

42 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MAPS

STAGE 14: VILLANUEVA DE TAPIA - VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDAS) Description on page: 176 Time: 4 h 15 min Length: 16,7 km

STAGE 16: CUEVAS BAJAS - ALAMEDA Description on page: 188 Time: 4 h 45 min Length: 21,2 km

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 43 MAPS

STAGE 17: ALAMEDA - FUENTE DE PIEDRA Description on page: 194 Time: 3 h 55 min Length: 18,6 km

44 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MAPS

STAGE 18: FUENTE DE PIEDRA - CAMPILLOS Description on page: 204 Time: 3 h 20 min Length: 15,7 km

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 45 MAPS

STAGE 19: CAMPILLOS - CAMPILLOS (Embalses de Guadalhorce) Description on page: 210 Time: 5 h 15 min Length: 23 km

46 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MAPS

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 47 MAPS

STAGE 21: ÁLORA (Estación de El Chorro) - ARDALES Description on page: 228 Time: 4 h 30 min Length: 16,5 km

48 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MAPS

STAGE 20: CAMPILLOS (Embalses de Guadalhorce) - ÁLORA (Estación de El Chorro) Description on page: 220 Time: 6 h 5 min Length: 22km

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 49 MAPS

STAGE 22: ARDALES - EL BURGO Description on page: 238 Time: 5 h 35 min Length: 22,8 km

50 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MAPS

STAGE 23: EL BURGO - RONDA Description on page: 244 Time: 7 h 25 min Length: 24,2 km

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 51 MAPS

52 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MAPS

STAGE 24: RONDA - ESTACIÓN DE BENAOJÁN Description on page: 256 Time: 3 h 55 min • Length: 12,8 km

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 53 MAPS

STAGE 25: ESTACIÓN DE BENAOJÁN - JIMERA DE LÍBAR Description on page: 264 Time: 2 h 55 min Length: 9,7 km

54 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MAPS

STAGE 26: JIMERA DE LÍBAR - BENALAURÍA Description on page: 272 Time: 4 h 30 min Length: 15,3 km

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 55 MAPS

STAGE 27: BENALAURÍA - GENALGUACIL Description on page: 284 Time: 3 h 50 min Length: 11,6 km

56 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MAPS

STAGE 28: GENALGUACIL - CASARES Description on page: 292 Time: 5 h 45 min Length: 20,5 km

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 57 MAPS

STAGE 29: CASARES - ESTEPONA Description on page: 306 Time: 10 h 25 min Length: 32,8 km

58 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MAPS

STAGE 30: ESTEPONA - MARBELLA Description on page: 316 Time: 7 h Length: 27,1 km

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 59 MAPS

STAGE 32: OJÉN - MIJAS Description on page: 334 Time: 10 h 15 min Length: 39,8 km

60 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MAPS

STAGE 31: MARBELLA - OJÉN Description on page: 326 Time: 5 h 55 min Length: 17 km

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 61 MAPS

62 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MAPS

STAGE 33: MIJAS - BENALMÁDENA Description on page: 344 Time: 6 h 15 min Length: 18 km

STAGE 35: ALHAURÍN DE LA TORRE - MÁLAGA Description on page: 360 Time: 2 h 35 min Length: 12,9 km

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 63 MAPS

STAGE 34: BENALMÁDENA - ALHAURÍN DE LA TORRE Description on page: 352 Time: 4 h 15 min Length: 12,3 km

64 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MAPS

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 65 I La Gran Senda de Málaga on the eastern Costa del Sol

Traditional ploughing in the fertile plains of the Vélez River using a yoke of locally bred Payuna oxen La Gran Senda de Málaga on the eastern Costa del Sol

he Costa del Sol to the east of the capital according to what the circumstances allowed, of the province is a long coastal sector if one takes into account the results. On the Tof about 160 kilometres. The Gran Senda other hand, the Málaga territory is charac- includes the city limits of Málaga (from the teristically mountainous and this particular delta of The Guadalhorce River), Rincón de feature is present almost all the way down la Victoria, Vélez Málaga, Algarrobo, Torrox the sea shore. In fact, you will discover the and Nerja. The itinerary cuts through each Ancantilados del Cantal cliffs, and the change of these city limits completely and usually from coastal and mountain stages of the walk not far from the coast. The recent history of happens very close to the famous Acantilados Málaga’s east coast can be summarized in de Maro and Cerro Gordo cliffs. This shows terms of a conﬂ ict between the interests of the complicated geography which deﬁ nes the agriculture and its derivatives, metropolitan coastal fringe of the Axarquía area. urbanising and tourism. It seems that all This closeness of mountains and sea meant the planning, based on analysis of these that the land management had to involve overlapping sectors, has been carried out channelling the infrastructure through a narrow

66 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga La Gran Senda de Málaga on the eastern Costa del Sol I corridor to keep the costs down. The fi rst roads, was about to happen, having a buffering serving the commercial traffic and people effect on that region which was altered by between the “vegas” of Vélez, Nerja and the the almost centrifugal force of the western capital, were laid out along the beach itself. Costa del Sol and copied its tourist industry The road known as Carretera Nacional 340 and model. Although there are a few token golf the no longer existing Ferrocarril Suburbano courses in the Axarquía area, the hotels and railway occupied the prime locations linking the service industry buildings have been erected small fi shing communities, squeezing around very close to the sand and water to appeal the dune systems and breaking through the to the visitors. At the turn of the century this rocks with ditches and tunnels. resulted in a construction boom. As there The fertile plains along major rivers, called were no more flat areas, housing estates “vegas”, once navigable inlets, used to be with their road networks were distributed covered with traditional crops such as sugar along the foot of mountain slopes, creating cane at the beginning of last century. Sugar bedroom communities and commuting, a form cane generated a fl ourishing sugar business of residential tourism. and changed completely the landscape of This increasing human presence required Axarquía. However, the phenomenon of tourism a consistent quality water supply which was mainly addressed by creating the La Viñuela reservoir in the valley of Río Vélez, which you will be able to see from Periana while walking the GR-249. The problems of a collapsed traffi c system due to traffi c jams along the already extensive roads required several roundabouts in the capital city and the Autovía del Mediterráneo motorway, a huge project, which due to the geography of the area, was carried out using a system of bridges and tunnels cutting through the middle of rocky slopes. Then the lack of an adequate waste management system, for solid, and above all, liquid waste, needed addressing. This was a serious logistical problem as there were no suitable sites for water treatment plants. In the end, the “vegas” along the river housed the waste treatment facilities. Another problem constituted directing the waste towards those facilities, which required a pipe system at the foot of the beaches, and pump stations.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 67 I La Gran Senda de Málaga on the eastern Costa del Sol

The last protagonists in shaping the lands- There are various archaeological sites cape to enter the stage, were the cultivated the walk gets close to along its itinerary, subtropical trees which had been conquering from the Phoenician riverside settlements the land up the mountain slopes until they and necropolis to Roman sites, passing made Axarquía relevant on the international through castles and buildings indicating scale in this type of agricultural production. the past Muslim rule. The colossal network Each and every of these aspect you will be of coastal defensive structures deserves a able to see along the four initial stages of the special mention. Between the 16th and 18th Gran Senda de Málaga; through this highly century the network was meant to discourage urbanised land where there are, like small raids of corsairs and pirates from North islands, superb quality environmental and Africa and north-western Europe through heritage elements. numerous watchtowers and fortifications. The visitor enters a region in which they The geological resources of the eas- will soon come across caves and natural tern Costa del Sol are some of the values shelters marking the way. Given the mild that the GR-249 will attempt to show the climate, the shelters and caves have been walkers by repeatedly taking them to sce- inhabited and used for social and cultural neries displaying diversity of substrates activities practically without a break from the of different age and chemical composition; Palaeolithic era. Some of these spaces have shale, limestone and post-orogenic materials been adapted to be used by visitors; however which have suffered from the rising and these places also harbour sanctuaries, which falling of sea levels in past geological eras. are closed to the public, containing animal life, Primeval nature spots are mostly con- archaeological sites and cave art. The most fined to cliffs, dunes, beaches, fluvial famous is the Cueva de Nerja, but there is valleys and estuaries. The first two types also the Cantal Cave which opened recently of environment harbour striking botanical and others such as Complejo del Humo where species, in some cases exclusively found science and education are the main focus. in this section of the coast. These plants

La Cala de Moral beach, ﬁ rst plan shows the breakwater where beach cliffs begin

68 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga La Gran Senda de Málaga on the eastern Costa del Sol I

Limonium malacitanum, a beautiful endemic in one of its favourite spots in el Cantal fight against the dryness, instability of and sand with them, the main resource the beaches, and salinity of the coastal sought by the tourists; the beaches. The area, using ingenious biological tactics. fauna and flora harboured in particular The coastline, with a perfect layout west by the Vélez River also claim a growingly to east, is defined by three large coves: respectful approach from the locals and the the Málaga cove, the Vélez cove and the visitors, especially such unique species as Nerja cove, separated from one another by the chameleon (the area is one of its main stretches of cliffs and the tops of the Torre European strongholds). Birds are a tourist del Mar and Torrox lighthouses. attraction on their own, as well as being Rivers are the great landscape designers an educational and scientific resource. of Axarquía. The Guadalmedina, Jaboneros, Totalán, Vélez, Algarrobo, Torrox and Chíllar Throughout the following four stages Rivers originate in the Central Limestone of the walk, the team of Gran Senda will Arch and in the Sierras de Tejeda y Almijara; lead the walker into the gradual discovery they outline their valleys from north to of this complex area, full of history and south independently from one another, and environmental value, while enjoying the drain directly into the Mar de Alborán. The 70 kilometres of earthen tracks, paths and rivers, be as it may, arrive depleted of great seaside boardwalks. Let the adventure of amounts of water, but they bring sediment discovering Málaga Province begin.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 69 1 MÁLAGA • RINCÓN DE LA VICTORIA: The ramble begins

MÁLAGA • RINCÓN DE LA VICTORIA 1 The ramble begins

ESTIMATED TIME 3 hours 20 minutes Altitude (m) Torre de las Palomas

19 Peñón del Málaga Cuervo Arroyo Baliza Cero Totalán 14 Chimenea de Río la Térmica Guadalmedina Playa de Baños Puerto del 9 del Carmen La la Caleta Arroyo Candado Farola Jaboneros 4

0 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 15,6 Distance (km)

LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 15.6 Accumulated ascent 40 Final altitude 7 Ascent km 2.0 Accumulated descent 35 Maximum altitude 23 Descent km 2.4 Maximum difference 23 Minimum altitude 0 Flat km 11.2 Altitude at starting point 6 Average altitude 4

Summary of this Stage The fi rst stage of the Great Path of Málaga is eastbound along the coastline towards the region of Axarquia. This is a very accessible part of the itinerary, especially because of its shortness but also because of the very few ups and downs. In order to connect western Málaga and La Cala del Moral in the Rincón de la Victoria, one must follow a gentle arch to the north and east along the borders of the Ensenada de Málaga and, of course, all through Málaga city, walking mainly along the beach boardwalks. Gradually you will start walking through the different coastal districts of Málaga, from the centre to El Palo with the traditional “chiringuitos” (beach bars) and beach restaurants with the traditional “espeteros” (long sticks full of fi sh or squid placed vertically close to the fi re for grilling). The Almeria road marks the end of this coastal landscape as Puerto de Candado port comes into view, so does the overwhelming cement factory called Cementera de la Araña, together with a few cliffs. The road enters one of the remaining cliffs through a tunnel. In the fi nal section the beautiful sea coves return, including the one named Peñon del Cuervo (Raven´s Rock), however the highest point here is the Las Palomas watchtower at 23 meters high. The walk continues alongside the 340 Carretera Nacionál road on its right shoulder and stops next to the limestone cliffs of the Cala de Moral at the small bridge which takes you safely to the other side of the Arroyo Totalán stream which constitutes the border between city limits of Málaga and Rincón de la Victoria.

70 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MÁLAGA • RINCÓN DE LA VICTORIA: The ramble begins 1

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage diffi culty required 1 1 1 2 10.3 4.4 0.9 x 0 Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17 Highlights of this Stage At the very beginning Gr-249 offers the possibility of exploring practically the entire coastal fringe of the capital. After a long period of being forgotten, Málaga of the 21st century welcomed the new millennium by opening up towards the Mediterranean Sea, the sea which has always lent Málaga its status of an important city. Various projects show this new focus on the port area, sparking many controversies at the same time; the walk subsequently takes you through these new areas. Meanwhile, the Guadalmedina River has been waiting its turn to claim its importance from an environmental and public use point of view, which it fully deserves as one of the great backbones of the city. The planning model of this part of the western Málaga coast has been modifi ed over many years and in this way Málaga´s identity of a fi shing centre has been preserved, the identity which has given the city a way to exist whilst adapting to a new reality. The walker has a chance to see such iconic places as the port and the lighthouse, the beaches of La Calera, Pedregalejo and El Palo, and the numerous “chiringuitos”, traditional beach bars which are also trying to fi nd their place and a new look at the beginning of this century. The last part of the itinerary of Stage 1 holds a few surprises of a different nature, from unspoilt wildlife sites harbouring exclusive botanical species to the perfectly preserved medieval beacon towers, through industrial buildings at the foot of the beach or enchanting secluded beach coves.

• Starting point: Kilometre Zero at the Paseo • Possible “escape routes”: At all times it Maritimo Antonio Banderas in Málaga. is possible to abandon the itinerary and head • Access to starting point: Málaga can be straight down towards the N-340 using any reached by the Autovía Del Mediterráneo, of beach access roads. The N-340 is a coastal the Mediterranean motorway following road which offers intercity bus stops and other direction east-southeast. There are mo- city services. torways leading from the north towards the • No return point: You are close to being half- Antequera region and the rest of the capitals way through Stage 1 in Los Baños del Carmen. of the Andalucían provinces: the A-45 and Considering the many possible “escape routes” AP-46, passing through the Puerto de las before you reach Los Baños del Carmen, it is Pedrizas. Coming from the Guadalteba and reasonable to keep walking from this point Serranía de Ronda regions, take the A-357 direction west. rather than trying to return. • Finish point: Bridge over the stream in La • Maps: The fi rst part of the stage is covered Cala del Moral, a town in Rincón de la Victoria. by map 1053-III (Málaga). At the kilometre • Access to fi nish point: Rincón de la Victoria is 11.2 you must change maps to the 1053-IV located between the N-340 coastal motorway (Rincón de la Victoria). and the A-7S ring road. Here the MA-24 • District boundries: The whole of Stage 1 branches off in the direction of Rincón de leads through Málaga city limits, up to El Arroyo la Victoria or La Cala de Moral, the latter Totalán at the fi nish point (km 15.6) where you marking the end of Stage 1. enter the city limits of Rincón de la Victoria.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 71 1 MÁLAGA • RINCÓN DE LA VICTORIA: The ramble begins

Jardín Puerto de la Torre, 17 kilometres long, one way. The path was adapted in 2012 and it starts in the city. The start and ﬁ nish points are connected by the city bus network and both points connect with the GR-249. The PR´s attractions include unusual views of the city and the Agujero and Limonero Reservoirs. At km 4.3 of the main itinerary, at the level of the Málaga Port, there is another public walk, the A-119 PR Sendero del Mirador. It begins at the Ayuntamiento (City Hall) and Close to Km Zero, a sculpture spelling La Misericordia is somewhat longer, about 26 kilometres, also it is a bit more demanding than the previously mentioned PR as it leads up to Montes • Enjoy the walk safely de Málaga. This walk is appealing because of The first stage poses very few potential the sea views over the Mar de Alborán, the dangers. All stream crossings are done using opportunity of walking up to the Parque Natural bridges; pedestrians have the right of way on de los Montes de Málaga and the descent the various “Paseos Maritimos”, the beach amongst the old mills through the valley of the promenades. Normally you should not have any Arroyo de Jaboneros. After 10 kilometres of problems getting drinking water; there are some walking, in the delta of the Jaboneros Stream, public drinking fountains available on the way. the PR and the GR connect again. As you leave the El Palo beaches behind, you are There are a couple of important historical walking along the shoulder of the N-340, which references which should be mentioned. There is narrow especially if you encounter a cyclist, used to be two ways to travel east out of Málaga which is a possibility. which faced many construction difﬁ culties Finally, the cultural landmark, Las Palomas due to the mountainous nature of the east watchtower at the Acantilados del Cantal cliffs, coast. One was the Carretera de Almería, a has no protective railings (at the time of writing scene of bloody historical events in the past, this guide). There is a steep drop on the southern as referred to by a quite vague information side of the tower. Take extreme caution while panel found between El Puerto del Candado taking pictures. and El Peñon del Cuervo. The other was the • Connections to other footpaths and trails Tren Litoral, coastal train which led out of The GR-92 or E-12 (Senda del Mediterráneo) Málaga, ran along the coast through tunnels runs in stages through the Province of Málaga, and across bridges and then climbed to Vélez and one of those stages, about 167 kilometres Málaga up to Boquete de Zafarraya to continue long, leads through this area. The part which to Granada Province. The train line was built coincides with the GR-249 starts at El Arroyo by the Suburban Railway Company of Málaga Totalán and ends at the famous Málaga lighthou- at the beginning of the last century. The old se. Logically, the waymarking of the Malaga station of origin was an eclectic two-toned province GR takes you in the opposite direction building at the entrance to Málaga port from to the GR-249. the Plaza de la Marina. The capital offers a couple of useful Pequeño The GR-249 passes this historical building Recorrido (PR, short distance) footpaths which which nowadays houses the Instituto de Estudios give you a good idea of the hilly countryside Portuarios, and this isn´t the last time the walk around you. One of them is the PR A-114 Ciudad will follow the now non-existent train lines.

72 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MÁLAGA • RINCÓN DE LA VICTORIA: The ramble begins 1

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

growing due to the epidemic of phylloxera. Growing vines was the main force behind the nineteenth century Málaga´s economy, with additional profi ts coming from marketing as well as selling the main product. Today the whole length of Guadalmedina is channelled as it crosses Málaga and the river harbours small numbers of fi sh where it is deep enough. This does not always happen as the river climbs for nearly 50 kilometres. The river runs through The Málaga Cathedral and the new boardwalk fragments of galleried woods, remnants of as seen from the port what the river banks should look like. From the bridge across the access motorway to the port, between Puente del Carmen and the railroad, he main watercourse of Stage 1 is the it is easy to find large mullet fish browsing Guadalmedina River, which crosses the Twalk at the very start of the journey. around in the still waters of the delta as well Originally the river was known as the Río de as some sea birds seemingly not bothered by la Ciudad, the City River, and indeed Málaga the traffi c noise. has been built on both sides of it. The river Other watercourses which cross the Gran reaches the sea in the western part of the Senda de Málaga at this stage are smaller, port, practically in the city centre. Málaga however they form an integral part of the and its river have shared a diffi cult past and city’s fabric. despite recent efforts, there is still no solution El Arroyo Toquero fl ows into the sea at La of how to integrate the river into the modern Caleta and it is barely perceptible to the walker. city combining conservation and exploitation. Next you will pass by the Arroyo Jaboneros, The Guadalmedina has its source in the Sierra de Camarolos in Central Limestone Arch, El A fi sherman at Los Baños del Carmen and the Arco Calizo Central, and fl ows south along Malagueta beaches in the background the Natural Park of the Montes de Málaga on its left side. This Natural Protected Area was created when pine trees were planted as part of a reforestation and water conservation plan, which also included construction of dams and two reservoirs: El Agujero and El Limonero. The plan was triggered by the violent fl ooding in September 23, 1907, which resulted in many deaths and extensive property damage. This was just one of the last in the series of events caused by deforestation. An additional problem was the necessity to abandon the hillside plots dedicated to vine

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which comes from Los Montes de Málaga. The Los Baños del Carmen riverbed is quite wide; however there has still been some fl ooding, especially during torrential rains. From the bridge across the stream you can make out in the distance El Monte San Antón, a limestone outcrop which is quite iconic to the “malagueños”. There are a few reed beds and small clumps of tamarisk here and there; little more can be sustained in the stream delta due to its entirely urban character. The bank of the watercourse is used as a footpath, the PRA-119 and a place to stroll or walk your dog. El Arroyo de Gálica, its waters signifi cantly reduced during the summer season, flows into the sea at the El Palo beaches, while the Judío stream ends at the Peñon del Cuervo. Both streams trickle off the shale slopes that the Autovía del Mediterráneo motorway cuts province area called Olías. The vegetation through; this gives the names of the streams along the stream delta consists of thick cane some exposure, as the high road bridges have and of some tree copses upstream. On the been named after them. right bank of the delta, bordered by the N-340 El Arroyo Totalán marks the end of Stage 1 of road, there are a few reddish limestone out- the walk and the start of the city limits of Rincón crops whose origins partially stem from cliffs de la Victoria. It is quite a long watercourse shaped by marine environment and gullies which comes from the Totalán village (named carved out by fl owing water. The outcrops after the stream) in the Axarquía region and have been used by a rock-climbing school. then fl ows through the district of the Málaga Finally, it is noteworthy that the Gran Senda de Málaga passes over, from time Arroyo Jaboneros and Monte de San Antón to time, waste water channels leading from Málaga city. The proximity of houses to the coast calls for the use of 26 pump stations to carry the waste water up to the two main water treatment facilities situated on the left bank of the Guadalhorce (quite close to the start of Stage 1) and at the Peñon del Cuervo (km 13.3) about a kilometre inland along the Arroyo del Judío valley. Drinking water management in Málaga is completed at the main stations for drinking water Estaciones Potabilizadores El Atabal, Limoneros y Pilones, which store drinking water mainly from the three El Chorro reservoirs, from La Viñuela in La Axarquía and the Concepcion one in Marbella.

7474 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MÁLAGA • RINCÓN DE LA VICTORIA: The ramble begins 1

WALK DESCRIPTION

The urban coast sea, caused by the passing ferry headed for Kilometre Zero is at the Paseo Marítimo Melilla or Ceuta. Antonio Banderas, in the vicinity of Diputación The Paseo Marítimo promenade, named after Provincial de Málaga, the sundial and the Málaga´s celebrity Antonio Banderas, continues sign for La Misericordia beach, named after under the name of Antonio Molina who came from the nearby hospice, Casa de la Misericordia, the Huelin district. Then a recently opened path Asilo Provincial y Hospicio. An institution which to the right, between the two chimneys, leads to dates back at this location to the beginnings Monumento al Espetero, a monument dedicated of the 21st century, which also served as a to the Costa del Sol’s traditional work of grilling hospital during the Moroccan war and as the sea food on long sticks. Next, along the Paseo de Málaga Provincial Council job training centre Antonio Machado, having crossed the train line for the children from the working class project which comes into the port, cross the somewhat in Huelin district. neglected Guadalmedina river (km 2.9), pass by This above mentioned district stretches the monuments to Torrijos and Cenachero and to the east and it owes its name to a British Estación Suburbana de Autobuses at the Muelle descendant Eduardo Huelin Reissig who built a Heredía and arrive at the symbol of Málaga´s village to house the workers of his sugar cane new image, el Palmeral de las Sorpresas. The factory. However, the factory chimneys at this port, having been opened to the city, has lent the point are evidence of the past existence of La place a new kind of sense of space and clarity, Ferrería de Constancía, an ingenious manu- as proved by the hundreds of passersby strolling facture related to the steel and iron industry, underneath the awning and along the two piers supplied with iron ore from the Sierra Blanca Muelle Uno and Muelle Dos. in Marbella. One of these chimneys is visible at the beginning of the walk and it is the tallest one of the Málaga coast at a height of 104 metres and known as Chimenea del Plomo (Lead Chimney) named after the lead smelting factory “Los Guindos” which was located below, or the Mónica chimney, named after a painting and a lovely story left on the chimney by a love struck man in 1993. The Huelin neighbourhood and its beaches witnessed the industrial eruption in Málaga when textile, ﬂ our, tobacco and railroad factories were opened. Nowadays this is just another residential area and its main feature is the park El Parque del Oeste. The beach is famous for a fun event which is enjoyed both by locals and visitors: the so-called Melillero Wave, a surprising phenomenon for the normally calm Sierra de Mijas from El Palo beach

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as it veers eastward). At the Pedregalejo beach, you can visit another historical place; its restoration project is currently generating intense discussions amongst politicians and citizens alike; Los Baños del Carmen. This Marine Spa with its exceptional location in an extensive wooded area can be found at km 8.6 and it takes you almost immediately to another local symbol, the Nereo shipyard. Just before the start of the Paseo Maritimo del Pedregal (the walk swerves Kilometre mark on the N-340 to get to the beach and passes it on the right) are the old dry docks, centuries-old In the Palmeral de las Sorpresas on Muelle workshops, a museum and an Escuela 2 there is the Aula del Mar, opened in 1989 in Taller (a training workshop). In 2008 the a space provided by the Guild of Fishermen. It Ministry of Culture declared the carpentry has become an institution on the Andalucían of the beaches of Ribera de las Playas de coast thanks to the activities related to Pedregalejo as part of Andalucían historical environmental education, conservation of heritage. One of the craft’s star achieve- coastal ecosystems and the recovery of marine ments are the jábega boats, traditional species, especially turtles and cetaceans. They fishing boats whose shape and decoration currently manage the Alborania Museum, suggest Phoenician origins and which can which is highly recommended. still be seen navigating the eastern coasts It is worth a detour to see the only lighthou- of Málaga. se in Spain with a feminine name: La Farola instead of the usual masculine El Faro; abandon The embankment of the old railway line reveals the the northeast direction and head south to geological composition of the cliff the Espigón del Puerto which cuts into the Alborán Sea. This is a good spot to gaze at the most popular Málaga view: the oblong shape of the Alcazaba, La Coracha and the Castillo de Gibralfaro leaning against the Cathedral, popularly known as “La Manquita”. At the Paseo Maritimo de la Farola a sign indicates the beginning of the GR-92 E-12 while our GR takes you along the pavements and the different levels of the Paseo Maritimo leading you along close to the sand. From the Playa de la Malagueta continue to La Caleta beach (where you follow the road

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Walkway adopted by the GR-249 to skirt the ﬁ rst sea cliffs

Nature haven in an archaeological gorse, esparto grass, Mediterranean dwarf sanctuary fan palm, and some herbs mixed with the El Arroyo Jaboneros marks the dividing more marine species such as the Sea Daisy line between the beaches of Pedregalejo (Asteriscus maritimus) or the interesting and El Palo while Arroyo de Gálica gives endemic Limonium malacitanum. way to the beach Playa del Dedo on the The surprising views over to the Playa Paseo de la Generación del 27. As it leads del Peñon del Cuervo are spectacular in further away from the big city, the walk contrast with the landscape that has been regains the atmosphere of ancient rural left behind and, above all, which is about fishing communities of the two Málaga to come next. In the middle, there is a neighbourhoods, which today have been prominent crag resembling a peninsula and devoted to leisure, restaurants and tourism. the delta of the Arroyo del Judío. The beach And then the landscape changes, leaving is actually an isolated cove between the behind the port Puerto del Candado (km previous and current hill which reaches 12.2) and gradually ascends to the highest into the sea. The tunnel of the Carretera elevation of Stage 1, along the road barriers de Almería penetrates the hill where the of the N-340. Construction was slowed down Paseo de los Canadienses commemorates here because of a hill formed by limestone the work of the mobile blood transfusion unit ridges. At the foot of the hill a pedestrian of the Canadian Dr. Henry Norman Bethune walkway has been built. The vegetation on who came from Valencia in support of the this slope, rising between the rocks of the people fleeing via the Almería road in 1937. coast and the road, consists of spiny broom, The cement factory Cementera de la Araña

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them supported by stone corbels and the staircase to the upper floor. In both rooms there is a fireplace to generate smoke and flames used in signalling other towers. But it is not only this medieval tower which is willing to talk about history, above all is the so called Complejo del Humo, a complex of shelters and caves in the cliffs of Los Tajos de la Araña which provide numerous data on the prehistoric population of the coast. Next to the tower there is the Interpretation Centre and Museum of the cave complex, where you can find contact numbers and opening hours. In any case, to imagine the potential La Playa del Peñon del Cuervo with its rocky outcrop of this place you would have to go back which divides the beach in two in time when the sea level was tens of meters higher than the current one, there provides the counterpoint to the emerging were meadows and coastal forests to natural landscape, with its metal towers and the ground limestone dust covering Torre Atalaya de las Palomas everything, a price to pay for the production of this building material which was in such high demand at the beginning of the century on the Costa del Sol. The rocky point topped with the Las Palomas watchtower located at km 14.1 km and at the highest altitude of the day, dominates the view with its haughty presence on a rise from where you can see the major part of the coastline forming the first and second stage of the Great Málaga Path. This very well preserved watchtower dating back to the 16th century is almost 11 metres high, built on two floors on top of the rock bed, as it is customary for such buildings. The bulk of the construction is based on stone joined together with limestone mortar, but the finish and the vault are made using strong ceramic brick. You can easily distinguish the two machicolations, one of

78 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MÁLAGA • RINCÓN DE LA VICTORIA: The ramble begins 1 provide the early humans’ diet of molluscs and crustaceans with complementary ingredients. The humans would have been protected by the mild climate and night fires lit in the shelters amongst the rocks. The current use of the same cliffs by the rock climbers from the so-called Escuela de la Cala de Moral generates some controversy. In order to reach the very end of Stage 1 Peñón del Cuervo and the Sierra de Mijas at the Arroyo Totalán, walk a little further along the road, passing by the exclusive Iberian populations of Maytenus senegalensis bushes, mixed with Rock Samphire (Crithmum maritimum) and Searocket (Cakile maritima) in the sandy soil. Ahead and on the other side of Arroyo Totalán, the extensive beaches of La Cala del Moral and Rincón de la Victoria await. Rock Samphire growing on a seaside cliff

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

1 Km Zero at the 30S 0371113 2 Chimenea del Parque 30S 0371306 Diputación Provincial 5 m 5 m de Málaga 4061373 del Oeste 4061739 30S 0371461 4 Bridge over Río 30S 0372624 3 Monumento al Espetero 4 m 5 m 4062008 Guadalmedina 4063748 30S 0373181 6 La Farola and breakwater 30S 0373643 5 Monumento al 1 m 2 m Cenachero 4064420 of Puerto de Málaga 4064036 30S 0375210 30S 0376583 7 Arroyo and Playa de 0 m 8 Baños del Carmen 1 m la Caleta 4064953 4064860 30S 0377982 30S 0379861 9 Arroyo Jaboneros 2 m 10 Puerto del Candado 4 m 4064541 4064118 30S 0380468 30S 0380820 11 Peñón del Cuervo 5 m 12 Peñón del Cuervo 13 m archeological site 4063857 4063912 30S 0381427 14 End of Stage 1 at 30S 0382501 13 Las Palomas watchtower 23 m 8 m 4063794 Arroyo Totalán 4063870

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 79 2 RINCÓN DE LA VICTORIA • VÉLEZ MÁLAGA: Along the cliffs, beaches and orchards of Axarquía

RINCÓN DE LA VICTORIA • VÉLEZ MÁLAGA 2 Along the cliffs, beaches and orchards of Axarquía

ESTIMATED TIME 5 hours 25 minutes Altitude (m) Torre del Jaral 35 Túneles de Torre de Vélez 30 Los Cantales Benagalbón Málaga 25 Casa Fuerte Torre de Río Autovía 20 La Cala Bezmiliana del Moral Torre de Moya Castillo Vélez A-7 15 Chilches del Marqués Almayate 10 El 5 Peñón 0 0 1 3.5 6 8.5 11 13.5 16 18.5 21 23.5 Distance (km)

LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 24.4 Accumulated ascent 70 Final altitude 25 Ascent km 6.3 Accumulated descent 50 Maximum altitude 37 Descent km 6.0 Maximum difference 37 Minimum altitude 0 Flat km 12.2 Altitude at starting point 7 Average altitude 6

Summary of this Stage This long leg of the walk begins together with the city limits of Rincón de la Victoria. You will get to know all of Rincón´s beaches from the Arroyo Totalán stream in La Cala del Moral to the Torre de Benagalbón tower. The walk takes you along the coast of Vélez Málaga though it starts gradually veering away from it so that you can walk through the slate and chalk hills and then by the fertile orchards of the Vega of the Río Vélez. Almost at all times it coincides with an east-west direction, which is also the direction of the N-340 road. The Great Path of Málaga and the road run jointly from time to time, until the path turns north at the Vélez river. The GR-249 uses the beach promenades, Paseos Marítimos, but also dirt roads, the beach, footpaths and roadside. Much of this stage is quite accessible, but its length, detours at the end and the industrial zone you arrive at, can give you an impression of the walk being harder than it really is. On the other hand, the variety of Stage 2 adds to its beauty, with its ever-changing terrain, closeness to the beaches and the landscapes. In any case, Stage 2 is a good way to discover that the coastline of Málaga province is as unique as the Axarquía region and its main river.

Highlights of this Stage The east coast of Málaga appears before the traveller´s eyes as a built-up zone where the beaches have sometimes been stretched to their limits. However, according to the ﬁ ndings of a staggering number of prehistoric and historic remains of dwellings, it seems this coastline has never been free of human presence. This is the ﬁ rst attraction

80 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga RINCÓN DE LA VICTORIA • VÉLEZ MÁLAGA: Along the cliffs, beaches and orchards of Axarquía 2

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage diffi culty required 1 2 1 3 18.2 6.2 0 x 5 Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17 of Stage 2, discovering how the coast held up as a resource. There are many excellent examples of the different models of the fi nal product. Construction problems originally stem from the good climate, a main active ingredient of the southern edge of Málaga province. Then, the crowding of infrastructure and buildings is caused by, amongst other factors, the coast´s characteristically abrupt and mountainous terrain, up to the point that the mountains literally fi nish in the sea, creating escarpments and cliffs which can be a barrier for the walker or, as it happens in El Cantal, the area´s main attraction. It is interesting to discover how these inherited problems are being solved by environmental improvements and correct public use management, both of which are evident along the way. The beauty of this section of the coast of Málaga province, one of the few places with limestone cliffs, certainly deserves such an injection of care. History, with a capital H, emerges along the Gran Senda de Málaga through the archaeological sites in caves, Phoenician settlements, Roman villas and factories, Arabic farmsteads, medieval watchtowers, 18th century forts, quarries and thousand-year-old paths. Nature timidly survives on the sea cliffs and on the upper edges of the wider beaches, with beautiful populations of Rock Samphire and Searocket. And as a tribute to the remnants of the rural and agricultural coast which still persists, it is worthwhile to venture out into what´s left of the traditional irrigated crops on the fertile fl ood plains of Río Vélez, where the walker might be surprised by the timeless image of a pair of “pajuno” breed oxen ploughing the same land which sustained in the past the hundred years old sugar factories and cane sugar mills.

• Starting point: Arroyo de Totalán, where you is what the eastern Costa del Sol actually is. enter the city limits of Rincón de la Victoria At the beginning the N-340 is inland, to the direction east. north, and from km 13.2 (Arroyo de Iberos) it • Access to starting point: La Cala del Moral runs toward the coast, to the south. can be accessed comfortably from Autovía del • No return point: From the Peñon de Almayate Mediterráneo. There is a trafﬁ c hub close to the onwards (the Almayate rock has an image of starting point where access roads intersect: the a bull at the top, approximately at km 19.5) A-7S, MA-24 from Rincón de la Victoria and it is more suitable to finish the stage than the coastal N-340. undertaking another alternative. • Finish point: Nuestra Constitución roundabout, • Maps: Stage 2 begins on map 1053-IV (Rincón at the western entrance to Vélez Málaga off de la Victoria), is continued on 1054-III (Torre del the A-356 road Mar), and ends on the 1054-I (Vélez Málaga). • Access to finish point: The A-356 road • District boundries: Rincón de la Victoria and mentioned above. It connects the Autovía del Vélez Málaga border at the Arroyo de Santillán Mediterráneo by two intersections with the A-45 Brook, at km 7.9, which means that Torre de in Casabermeja and the Puerto de las Pedrizas. Benagalbón and Chiches are the twin district • Possible “escape routes”: Practically any of each city limit respectively. About 68% of point of the journey is near the N-340, with all Stage 2 lies within the city limits of the capital the services of the long stretched city which of Axarquía.

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protective railings, but it is wide enough to pass through quite safely. Be careful not to trip over the nuts and bolts which pepper the concrete. Finally, and as a general rule on the coast of Málaga, the west to east direction of the path suggests that you will be facing the sun during the first hours of the day and having the sun directly behind you during the rest of the day. It is necessary to protect yourself from the sun´s effects.

La Cala de Moral beach from the cliffs • Connections to other footpaths and trails From Stage 1, the GR 92 E12 continues meandering along the coast of Málaga, • Enjoy the walk safely sharing itinerary with our GR but in the This long and linear journey, with the opposite direction. There are not many beginning and the end of the stage being public paths along the coast and the exis- so far apart, should be well planned. There ting ones seem to concentrate all in the should be no problems with accommodation same area, north of Rincón de la Victoria or in case you need to return, however these centre. There are three consecutive local “senderos” departing from Arroyo de things should not be subject to improvising. Granadilla. As can be expected in this There are possibilities to stock up on food or environment, they end up climbing hills and water almost all along the way. This becomes heights with spectacular views towards more difficult from Almayate onwards as the the south and the coast. path moves away from the road, that great The SL A-82 Arroyo Granadilla Cerro vertebra of the coast. On this last section of Capitana is a circular 8.5 km walk that has Stage 2 there is a certain amount of traffic the access to Albenda Tower as one of its related to the comings and goings of farm attractions. The interesting ramble through vehicles and you should take care walking the bottom of the valley is shared by the on the side of the road. SL A-83. The two paths meet again at the The only troublesome stream crossing highest point, offering more alternatives. is over the Santillán, due to the collapse The first path, Arroyo de Granadilla (or of the old railway bridge, but normally the Granadillas on other signs) follows a loop stream´s waters do not pose any danger to the west. The 7 kilometre circular called except for major storms, which are not fre- Cerro del Tío Caña takes you to the east. quent. The little climb along the streambed Finally, the SL A-84 Cerro de Benagalbón in the Arroyo de Iberos should not present Cerro del Tío Caña is a linear, the two walks any difficulty under normal conditions. The coincide along the last few metres but in cliffs of El Cantal have protective railings, this case the walk starts from the centre but be careful standing close to the breakers of the village of Benagalbón and reaches when the weather is rough. The same rule Rincón de la Victoria as it descends. The should be followed in places where a na- three footpaths offer flexibility and allow rrow jetty of rocks separates the path from planning a personalised walk. the crashing waves. At the moment the It is also possible to visit the Cueva del railway bridge over the river Vélez has no Tesoro (before El Higuerón) as a guided

82 GR-249GR-249 GranGran SendaSenda dede MálagaMálaga RINCÓN DE LA VICTORIA • VÉLEZ MÁLAGA: Along the cliffs, beaches and orchards of Axarquía 2 tour. It is located on the upper cliffs above Los Cantales and with very THE RIVERS & THE WATER easy access from the GR. Prehistoric human occupation and the legends os Montes de Málaga, in the broad sen- and anecdotes surrounding it are se, are a succession of hills with their combined with the attractiveness of Lmaximum rise on the Cerro de Santo Pilar its formation process, linked to the (1,020 m), located above the Totalán village elevation of the land and changes north of Rincón de la Victoria and about 10 in the level of the sea in successive kilometres in a straight line from the beach. geological times, together with the Then the hills start waning away eastward as erosive action of the Mediterranean. the summits gradually approach the coastline Also, there are three areas at Stage 2 then to disappear in the Vélez river as the which have drawn the attention of Peñon de Almayate. scientists and teachers resulting in This means that the river courses that are different studies which sometimes are generated in the watershed of the Santo Pílar, accompanied by detailed routes. These all draining to the south, are longer and more substantial in the west at the beginning of are Los Cantales, Peñon de Almayate this stage. And so the Arroyo (or Río) Totalán, (also called the Bull Rock or Cerro its fork shared by Olías and Totalán villages, del Toro) and the delta of the Vélez must be the largest river of this stage, if one river. In these three places, because can use that term considering how short the of geology, flora and fauna, different length of the valleys is. groups of people have designed their Then there is still a good number of little own interpretive itineraries that are streams which ﬂ ow on schist and slates on accessible in various formats, also extremely steep slopes. Here, since time as publications sponsored by CEDER immemorial, olive and almond trees thrive, Axarquía. also some remaining grapevines. Where the The same occurs with the obvious terrain and the availability of water allows, historical and heritage values reflec- there are avocados, mangos, kiwis and papayas. ted in the routes and suitable focus This diversiﬁ cation of production, by adding on the times of the Phoenicians, non-traditional crops, is especially important Romans, Arabs, the industrial era, for the economy of the valleys. etc. The coast line and the abrupt Direction east the Great Path of Málaga terrain have caused the traditional meets the Arroyos, or streams, of Las Piletas, foot paths, animal paths and roads to be laid out along more or less the same route throughout the centuries. A walkway conditioning in El Cantal cliffs The Camino de Vélez (or the Camino Viejo de Málaga, its name changes depending where you start), has been known forever, in fact it is still possible to make out the surface of the old path at the end of it. Other than that, only spoken or written testimonies to this millennial passage way exist, and it can be traced to Roman times.

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Los Villodres, Granadilla, Cuevas, Benagalbón, Santillán, Chilches, Cañuelo, Adelfa, Iberos, Almayate and del Búho among others. Although there is a profusion of streams, they lack in size. In general, the hiker will rarely manage to see them. Most of the time it’s more by guesswork than anything else that you can recognize the delta of one of these streams In this section you can opt for the tunnels or the as they can be meagre puddles on the bea- walkway ches. The deceptively tame nature of all of the streams leads to such sights as vehicles parked under the pedestrian bridges or even Recently the Diputación de Málaga, whole meetings of locals, but one must take as part of the same project called “Idara” into account that the Mediterranean climate is which sponsors this GR, has installed a characterised by unusual storms, above all at birdwatching observatory on the left bank the beginning of autumn, returning every year near the delta of the Vélez river, less than without fail. The fi nal sections of the natural a kilometre away from the walk after cros- draining systems of Los Montes de Málaga sing the river and planted native species cannot therefore, support vegetation other of fl ora at the same time. It is an initiative than some oleander and tamarisk, becoming that joins the numerous organizations and in fact dry streambeds used by the locals as citizens who recognize the importance and just another means of communication, and so value of the delta environment. The delta, does the GR-249. From time to time you will as it holds islands, is suitable for nesting, fi nd dense populations of cane, which do not resting and wintering of dozens of species last long if they are near a town or a village. of birds, some of them endangered. The Vélez River naturally deserves a special The importance of water will be especially mention. It is much longer but its waters are noticeable with irrigation channels at the depleted by the Viñuela reservoir and irrigation end of Stage 2, and you will be walking next ditches, it comes back each year but it expires to some of the major channels bordering again towards the summer. From the geological the rock of Peñon de Almayate. Other than point of view it’s a wide delta of Quaternary the water being important for agriculture, deposits which has lost its dynamic character its essential use for human consumption is due to the above. evident in the urban and industrial water Despite being listed in the inventory of pipes running parallel to the path. This is Andalucían Wetlands and being studied as a the only place where they could have been possible Natural Monument, the truth is that laid out due to the shape of the terrain the real threats to the River are ongoing and and the consequent stretched layout of alarming. High impact recreation, agricultural the cities. While the origin of the drin- use and urban pollution, as well as industrial king water is mainly the Viñuela reservoir, contamination being the main threats to this waste water management faces the same river, which deserves better treatment because problems as it does along the whole coast. of its importance to wildlife, especially the The latter have been corrected by means birds. The vegetation in the area where the of the corresponding treatment facilities in river intersects with the walk is made up by Rincón de la Victoria and Vélez Málaga and one of the most impressive groves of poplars numerous pump stations carrying water to of the fi nal section of the walk, with some the submarine emitters, after it has been eucalyptus trees, dense reed beds and some treated. Thus an initially complex problem rushes. has found the right solution.

8484 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga RINCÓN DE LA VICTORIA • VÉLEZ MÁLAGA: Along the cliffs, beaches and orchards of Axarquía 2

WALK DESCRIPTION

The suburban railway supported by a base of conglomerate rock, of Málaga from the capital sandstone and red-tinted lutites which you can only see at the beginning of this stage. When to Ventas de Zafarraya you start walking, the profi les of Acantilados de Stage 2 of the Great Path of Málaga owes Araña cliffs to the west are the fi rst example its layout to the coastal railway formerly linking of how the cliffs will look along the way. Los Málaga with Vélez and with the province Acantilados de Araña is formed by an abrasion of Granada passing through El Boquete de platform and marine cliffs, reaching 150 meters Zafarraya. The cost of continuing the railway above the current sea level. At the foot of the along the coast rendered it practically unfeasi- Araña cliffs you will fi nd the cave, Cueva de ble due to the mass of Sierra Almijara, which Tesoro, which is worth a visit. stretches across to the sea with high sea The Cala del Moral beach has a long cliffs in Maro, Cerro Gordo and Cantarrijan. breakwater which aims to correct the phe- The surviving tunnels, bridges and even some nomenon of the coastal drift which carries stations and train stops can be seen every sand and boulders laterally. Here, at this spot now and then, but it is noteworthy that you which involves both visible forces of nature actually walk along the former train tracks and human construction, you will find Los most of the time. The railroad was opened Cantales, a place whose name originates in in 1908 to address the transit of passengers the word “cantera”, a quarry. In this case, and and goods along the coast, communicating because of the quality of the rock, limestone the main coastal cities (to the east and west was quarried in blocks for masonry, not to of Málaga) with the port. be ground up as it is currently done at the The last section to open was the stretch Araña quarry. which climbed from Vélez Málaga, made so The GR-249 takes the only possible walking much more diffi cult by the mountainous terrain option which is along the cliffs, where you can that a cog railway system had to be used to either use the abandoned railroad tunnels, help the train negotiate the steep slope. This now converted into a pedestrian and cycling was actually the last stretch to be closed, in trail or a spectacular stairway with protective 1968, leaving a certain feeling of nostalgia in the memory of the locals stemming from what the train meant for them not so long ago. Between the Cala del Moral and Rincón de la Victoria Stage 2 begins in the city limits of Rincón de la Victoria, which includes the two above- mentioned population centres (in practice they are very closely connected and La Cala is involved in the life of the capital city). They are located in two coves separated by a rocky headland which is known as El Cantal or Los Cantales. Geology has deeply marked the landscape here. The white Jurassic limestone appears on both sides of the Arroyo Totalán El Cantal is an excellent place to see eroding coastal forming fossil cliffs on at least three levels, rocks and selected plants

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 85 2 RINCÓN DE LA VICTORIA • VÉLEZ MÁLAGA: Along the cliffs, beaches and orchards of Axarquía

Apart from successive streams on the way, sometimes bordered with railway sleepers as they cross the sand, the walk leads you along a wide dirt track, its surface firm and well used by locals and visitors for sports. The path is bordered by houses and gardens for many kilometres, in the first Delta of one of the streams in line of the beach. At approximately km Rincón de la Victoria 3.6 you should look for an exit to the north, crossing the N-340 which here is called the Avenida del Mediterráneo, and reach the railings, which gives you more sea views. Casa Fuerte Bezmiliana, a fort built in 1766 From the stairway built here by the city, you a few meters from the sea to hold back have an opportunity to witness the dynamic the attacks of Dutch and Saxon pirates, nature of sea cliffs, with their ﬂ at abrasion well worth a visit if possible. In Rincón platforms visible and the evident erosion and de la Victoria you can also see El Castillo wave-cutting of the bases of rock and even de Bezmiliana and a magnificent Roman some caves and small arches. Moreover, the villa rich in mosaics with geometrical and railway embankments show the underground mythological motifs. rocks, cutting through and so exposing some Between the access to the Casa Fuerte of the caves which are, in some cases, ﬁ lled and El Torre de Benagalbón (km 6) in the with marine deposits of pebbles, sand and built up area about a 100 metres from the shells. The rock dwelling vegetation visible walk, at a makeshift roundabout, there is an on the sunny side of the cliffs and exposed abundant population of Searocket (Cakile to a saline environment is characterised by maritima) with some scattered specimens its resistant nature. Most frequently present of Sea Daffodil (Pancratium maritimum) are the samphire and sea daisy, and once just as you cross El Arroyo Granadilla. El again you can see the local endemic Limonium Arroyo Benagalbón is followed by Arroyo malacitanum. de Santillán, where the remains of a rail You can also see here the old beacon tower bridge marks the beginning of the city limits Torre del Cantal, in the middle of a housing of Vélez de Málaga and the first of the estate. The tower is visible when you look west former coastal train stops ( at km 8) called when exiting the last tunnel. It is very similar Chilches, significantly damaged by the to the watchtowers seen at Stage 1 with a graffiti but well preserved architecturally. conical shape, circular at the base and with machicolations, which, despite its possible Arabic origin, marks an important remodelling The former train tunnels converted into in the sixteenth century. Curiously, the wat- spaces to stroll through chtower cannot be seen from the beaches of La Cala del Moral. The Rincón beaches The long Paseo Marítimo de la Virgen del Carmen, along the former old railway, shows the visitor the deep seated seafaring tradition. One of its most prized sea foods has been named after Rincón de la Victoria, as the Victoria anchovy, “boquerón victoriano”.

86 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga RINCÓN DE LA VICTORIA • VÉLEZ MÁLAGA: Along the cliffs, beaches and orchards of Axarquía 2

Chilches, Benajarafe and Valle Niza Just like other coastal towns, Vélez has been built along the N-340 road and close to the beach. In its fi rst Vélez section the road has been built partly on the former train platform which leaves just a few meters for transit, except for the first open flat areas, widely used by campers and for parking. La Torre de Chilches tower is the fi rst one which is easily accessible from the walk; however it is on the other side of the N-340. This modest watchtower A large population of Searocket at the foot of the has slightly different features compared to walk on the Rincón de la Victoria beaches the previous towers as it dates back to the beginning of the 16th century and its then architectural model. It has a solid appearance on the coast of La Cala de Mijas).In addition to with four embrasures and brick fi llings. offering two rooms, it also housed two cannons The walk now follows a narrow breakwater used to hold off frequent attacks by pirates which separates you from the sea and it narrows and privateers, both northern and African. The progressively. At some point you will see on tower there is a brick chimney used to get rid your right, one of the traditional orchards with of the smoke produced by a factory which was fi gs and other fruit trees, surrounded by cane to hidden underneath. protect it from the breeze and salt (km 10.4). As The walk leads to the beach, with its charac- you reach Benajarafe, with its pleasant pave- teristic greyish colour of sand, and as it passes ments along the N-340, you will start noticing a few surviving clumps of tamarisk it takes you again that you are following the old railway by an old house built of blocks of sandstone. line when you reach the Station of Benajarafe, You will be able to see where the sandstone integrated in the urban structure. The coastline has come from later on in the walk. Arriving you pass by, as usual to the south, houses an at Arroyo Iberos stream the walk takes you important seagrass “meadow” selected by upstream and then down under the N-340 (at the Aula del Mar for its project Cordón Verde km13.2) and around a housing estate Valle de Litoral (Coastal Green Belt) located near the Niza, crossing the road from Cajiz (MA-3203) to delta of the Vélez River. arrive at Arroyo Almayate amongst fi elds. Close The unique vantage point of Stage 2 is by there is a campsite and a major international the tower of Benajarafe also called Moya or avocado export company. However the must-do Gorda (which means fat, and is due to its size). There is a public access to the tower across stop is the Castillo del Marqués, which, after the road. The tower is worth visiting. It has many transformations, was fi nally converted an interesting horseshoe shape of a military into a catering school. Just like its twin, the bastion and dates back to the 18th century. The Bezmiliana Casa Fuerte fort was built in 1766 building has a robust feel. The living quarters to fi ght off threats coming from the sea. It was of the tower occupy the fi rst rocky outcrop of able to house four cannons. The highlight is shale, 30 metres above sea level, overlooking the fort´s façade crowned with hornwork for- a large expanse of the sea. Already placed at tifi cations and a double rampart (which aimed a vantage point, the tower stands 11 meters at more effective defence of the entrance), plus tall. Its walls are two meters thick, made another semi-circular one. The main body of the of stone, capstone and brick. It is the only building built of stone blocks is square-shaped, tower on this coast with such a peculiar shape built around an arms court and surrounded by (however there is another almost identical one a moat, which nowadays has been fi lled in.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 87 2 RINCÓN DE LA VICTORIA • VÉLEZ MÁLAGA: Along the cliffs, beaches and orchards of Axarquía

new urban centre which depends on the city of Vélez Málaga, it is famous for its orchards and fisheries, its recently discovered cave hermitage and an historical treaty of being able to establish a settlement less than 1 league (3 nautical miles) from the sea, a privilege granted after the Christian conquest. The most famous of the hills that surround this small town is El Peñón Almayate (or Del Toro, named after the bull-shaped black metal advertising panel on top of it).This is a headland of sandstone, a witness to the forces which shaped the coast in the past. This hill is where Vélez River delta and the outline of Sierra de Almijara stone blocks were quarried for the two built houses which are now ruined and which you passed by earlier at Stage 2 but also those The Old Málaga Road or which were used to build the Cathedral of Camino Viejo de Málaga Málaga between the 16th and 18th centuries. As you ﬁ nd yourself again on an old abandoned However, the easiness with which this stone railway platform, you will ﬁ nd the evidence of could be worked was the reason why the quarry the even worse destiny met by the failed Niza existed as early as the 8th century B.C. and had Beach urbanisation project, passing by abandoned continued operating until very recently. roads and gardens on an enormous plot of land. The rock harbours a selection of marine The landscape changes with the appearance of fauna (especially molluscs). In the past it stood chalk hills to the east. These nearby hills reach as the western bastion of the now non-existent their maximum height at the Torre de Jamal. The inlet of the Vélez River which was used by the Christian watchtower from the 16th century, which Phoenicians to build a settlement, Los Toscanos. can be accessed at km 6.2 km, does not follow The rock continues being a distinctive feature the usual architectural models since it is square, of the landscape. The ancient Phoenician city 12 meters high and built using much more brick. of Los Toscanos, situated on both sides of the The surroundings, fairly degraded at times, are river, forms an extremely important part of dominated by herbs and hawthorn, plus a few historical legacy. The western part, which is abandoned olive groves and isolated copses of accessed at km 18.5 in Almayate and at km 20.0 Aleppo pine trees. before crossing the river, consisted of the city, The walk descends and takes you across a the port which was an embarkation point both bridge dating back to the same period as the for people and goods, storage for a multitude Moya tower and the two forts seen in Stage 2. of amphorae and a walled outside area. There Having passed by another house built with blocks are other archaeological sites nearby at the of sandstone the walk continues on an asphalted top of the Cerro Peñon and Cerro Alarcón hills, road that leads to Casas de Cabo (a stream), and also in the north-west and at the Necrópolis de shortly after that goes back to following the former Jardín. The main necropolis was on the other train tracks leading you again through orchards side of Vélez, at the Cerro del Mar. The planned in the so-called Tajo del Pinto. Past Monte Azul Archaeological Park of Lower Vélez (Parque housing estate the walk passes through a vast Arqueológico de Bajo Vélez) comprises sites also wild area of abandoned citrus trees and thriving dating back to Roman and Arabic occupation. rabbits. Next you encounter the Arroyo del Búho The high cliffs of the rock, shelter under it one and then the station of Almayate. Almayate is a of the “asequías”, channels used to irrigate the

88 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga RINCÓN DE LA VICTORIA • VÉLEZ MÁLAGA: Along the cliffs, beaches and orchards of Axarquía 2 fertile soil which formed here in historic times and covered the ancient Phoenician bay. Few coastal farming areas of the city are as extensive as the plains of Vélez River, or as productive. The subtropical Mediterranean climate is due to the sheltering against the northern winds offered by Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara and the Arco Calizo Central. A traditional yoke of oxen in the Río Vélez fi elds, Cerro At the junction in Los Toscanos you can turn de Almayate in the background south, crossing the N-340 and, in the middle of a plot dedicated to growing vegetables and irrigated fi elds and the river on your left, and in fruit, you will fi nd La Torre Manganeta, dating the distance, from a place called La Barranca, you back to the 16th century, a tower which is in can already make out the view of the capital of quite bad shape and is also the most humble the Axarquia region. Behind you, the view of Vélez of all the towers seen so far. The difference in Málaga with its fortress crowning the brown hills height and distance from the sea between this and mass of Sierra Tejeda and Almijara at the vantage point and the Phoenician city shows the back is simply spectacular. When the walk gets evolution of the sea level and accumulation of closer to the riverbed again, you will pass by a basin sediments. The slightly north-east tendency water treatment plant on your right and then you of the walk´s direction becomes directly north will walk underneath the A-7. Here crops begin as you cross Vélez river across the battered alternating with industrial buildings because of the railway bridge, just at the entrance of the village closeness to the city. The GR-249 passes above the of Torre del Mar, which you swerve around on A-356 by gradually turning northeast, as Stage 2 the right. Again you will fi nd yourself between ends at the Nuestra Constitución roundabout.

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

30S 0382501 30S 0384019 1 Arroyo de Totalán 8 m 2 Tunnels and cliffs of El Cantal 9 m 4063870 4063842

30S 0385776 30S 0387986 3 Casa Fuerte de Bezmiliana 7 m 4 Torre de Benagalbón 11 m 4063911 4063572

5 Arroyo de Santillán 30S 0389903 30S 0390928 2 m 6 Torre de Chilches 4 m before the old station 4063717 4063805

30S 0394040 30S 0396311 7 Torre de Moya 4 m 8 Castillo del Marqués 2 m 4064044 4064534

30S 0397342 30S 0399184 9 Torre del Jaral 29 m 10 Almayate Bajo 4 m 4064670 4065565

11 Peñón de Almayate 30S 0399992 30S 0400432 or del Toro 3 m 12 Detour to Los Toscanos 2 m 4065645 4065980

13 Río Vélez and railway 30S 0400693 14 Roundabout of Nuestra 30S 0401282 bridge: Puente del 3 m 25 m Ferrocarril 4066201 Constitución in Vélez Málaga 4069793

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 89 3 VÉLEZ MÁLAGA • TORROX: The Subtropical Coast

VÉLEZ MÁLAGA • TORROX 3 The Subtropical Coast ESTIMATED TIME Altitude 4 hours 10 minutes (m) Torrox 125 Vélez Málaga 100 Cerro Mirador Era A-7 Maroma E-15 75 Río Seco Punta de 50 Río Mezquitilla Torre de Tornos de Faro de Río N-340 Algarrobo Lagos El Morche Torrox Torrox 25 Playa Ferrara

0 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 Distance (km) LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 19.1 Accumulated ascent 180 Final altitude 125 Ascent km 6.7 Accumulated descent 125 Maximum altitude 125 Descent km 5.6 Maximum difference 125 Minimum altitude 0 Flat km 6.8 Altitude at starting point 58 Average altitude 27

Summary of this Stage Vélez Málaga and Torrox both lie in river valleys separated by three others that run southwards off quite steep hills. It would not be possible to walk from one valley to the other directly as it would mean over lengthening the journey by having to go in to and out of the river valleys crossing the walk. The design of the road attempts to solve the problem by talking you down closer to the coast and then back up. This same solution was applied to the GR-249 to organise the third stage. First the walk takes you down southwards to Puerto de la Caleta, through the Camino Viejo de Algarrobo and Río Seco, and then you walk for 10 km direction east-southwest following the coastline to the tip of Torrox and ﬁ nally ascend to the village of your destination crossing another river and heading north. The elevation is not too pronounced and concentrated especially around the beginning, with a slight slope to reach the settlement of Torrox, while the length of the stage is quite comfortable and lets you fully enjoy the walk. There are a couple of sections that use dry streambeds, there are many dirt tracks, some footpaths and the rest of the walk leads along beach promenades, Paseos Marítimos, of different sorts.

Highlights of this Stage In Stage three we can witness the old Málaga province joining hands with the Málaga province of the 21st century. The ﬁ rst one is represented by watchtowers and Roman and Phoenician archeological sites. The latter is focused on two types of industry, both derived from the excellent climate of Axarquía: tourism and agriculture.

90 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga VÉLEZ MÁLAGA • TORROX: The Subtropical Coast 3

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 1 2 1 3 11.5 5.9 1.8 x 6 Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17 The tourist area is concentrated around the coast and, surprisingly, you can recognise construction models which have been already given up in the Costa del Sol, corresponding with the style of the mid-20th century and co-existing with recent residential areas which have been built according to very different parameters. There are ﬁ shing communities which maintain their roots; their houses lined up overlooking the horizon over the sea, their products which bring back the past both to locals and visitors. This could probably be one of the most attractive aspects for the visitors in Stage 3. The other industry generated as a result of the benign weather conditions, is the agriculture based on growing sub-tropical fruit trees. These are mainly grown in valleys, taking advantage of the shelter and the most indispensable resource: water. You will be able to see highly advanced technology applied recently to the exploitation spread out on the Axarquían hill. On the other hand you will also notice the ancient terraces and walls which have been adapted to the present use and now harbour some of the new types of product destined for modern markets. All in all, with this fusion of different possible components, Stage 3 offers a variety of landscapes which are worth mentioning; between urban and rural, with various sections of agriculture mentioned above, all of these landscapes are deeply interwoven into the very unique natural environment Stage 3 lets you explore.

• Starting point: In the south-eastern part of runs beside the walk at all times and bus Vélez Málaga, where the city is expanding, at services are available. It is the artery that can the intersection of the Avenida Pablo Iglesias be found even at the beginning (after the golf with the Camino de Algarrobo. The starting club, km 3) and at the end. point is next to the sports complex Polideportivo • No return point: the middle point of the tour Municipal Fernando Ruiz Hierro and is known is the nucleus of the population of Lagos. as the roundabout of Francisco Aguilar. From there it is more convenient to complete • Access to starting point: Vélez Málaga can the course. be reached from the autovía del Mediterráneo • Maps: Named in counter clockwise direction, (A-7S), which runs very close to the town centre. the way they will be needed, as they will The A-356 which connects the high Axarquía and needed, the maps are as following: in the the region of Antequera, is found to the west northwest corner the 1054-I (Vélez Málaga), of Vélez and runs in the direction north-south. then the 1054-III (Torre del Mar), the 1054-IV • Finish point: under the row of balconies along (Nerja) and the 1054-II (Torrox). Almedina street, in the southern extension of • District boundries: up to km 5.8 you are in Torrox. Nearby is the little square where the the city limits of Vélez Málaga, at the beach of church and the convent of Nuestra Señora de La Caleta. The short journey along the beach las Nieves are located. up to km 7.5 is in Algarrobo, from that point in • Access to ﬁ nish point: Torrox has direct con- Mezquitilla to the Río Gui at kilometre 11.1 you nection with Cómpeta and the Autovía del are in Lagos which belongs to Vélez Málaga. Mediterráneo (A-7S) through the A-7207. Both Algarrobo and Lagos share Vélez Málaga’s • Possible “escape routes”: possible exits for city limits. The rest of the itinerary of Stage 3 the walk are focused around the N-340 which belongs to Tolox.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 91 3 VÉLEZ MÁLAGA • TORROX: The Subtropical Coast

• Enjoy the walk safely direct access to The Great Path of Málaga. Rivers and streams that cross stage 3 are They aim at the recovery of the traditional quite short. Additionally, the characteristics footpaths and rights of way and re-unite the of the terrain and the fact that the rainfall is inhabitants of towns and cities with their not too abundant here, converts the rivers into immediate natural environment. La Puerta narrow streambeds which usually end up being Verde de Vélez Málaga has a length of 1.4 dry. However, on the way down to the beach km and entirely coincides with the beginning and walking up the subsequent rise you must of the walk in Stage 3. cross the riverbeds of Río Torrox and Río Seco. In Camino Viejo de Algarrobo and the GR go between the two, there are four smaller riverbeds separate ways at km 3.8, where the fi rst one you need to wade through and, although none keeps heading east and the latter swerves should pose any danger, you should remember southwards. The Cerro de Bentomiz hill is that they do serve as the natural drainage of the considered by the surrounding town inhabitants nearby hills and that specifi c weather conditions (the nearest one being Sayalonga, Arenas in of the Mediterranean climate can result in the north, Algarrobo and Vélez Málaga in the torrential downpours which could complicate West) to be a superb destination for walking. the crossings. Some sections of the walk follow From any of these towns there are footpaths an asphalted road which lacks a hard shoulder, which climb its 709 meters. They are excellent fortunately these sections do not have much for unparalleled views of the Axarquía and also traffi c. This happens, for example, between the to see the ruins of the Castillo of Bentomiz nursery Vivero Los Bambúes and the housing which sit on top of the hill. The walls of the estate Urbanización Baviera. There is a long castle have been built using stone socles, and section where you will be using the hard shoulder using so called rammed-earth as the base. The of the N-340 road and this, at times, offers little footpath leading up this hill from Vélez Málaga space for walking by the narrow breakwater is 800 metres from the start of this stage, and close to the crashing waves. In case of a well sign-posted as it branches off to the left. storm you should take extreme caution and use La Diputación de Málaga, the province common sense. council, has designed the Topographical Guide A similar situation occurs on some very of Walks in the Axarquía, thanks to the Plan de unstable slate cliffs, made worse by the “in- Dinamización del Producto Turístico Axarquía, vasion” of industrial buildings and equipment designed to stimulate the tourist offers of in this marine environment. It is recommended the area. Our Stage 3 contains one of the to use the dedicated path exclusively and to walks described in that book, it is called Lagos be well informed on the conditions of the sea Algarrobo and it connects villages along the and weather. It is possible to stock up on most Río de Algarrobo for about 14 kilometres and supplies at this stage in the successive populated then reaches its highest point on the Cerro areas. Also, you will be passing by a couple of de Carraspite hill in Sayalonga. At the fi nish drinking water sources. point of Stage 3 there is a starting point of • Connections to other footpaths and trails another Puerta Verde footpath, from Torrox The old road called Camino Viejo de Algarrobo to Frigiliana and Almijara. It starts in Torrox is used at the beginning of the stage to go down village and after about 19 kilometres and to the beach. The fi rst section of it has been 1,000 m of ascent it reaches the Natural Park asphalted as part of the Puerta Verde de Vélez of the Sierras Tejeda, Almijara and Alhama. It programme. There is a bicycle lane, two rest branches off to connect with the white village areas and various so-called Bio-Health stations of Frigiliana. Finally, GR-249 and GR-92 continue (Estaciones Biosaludables). In 2013 the Puerta to run together as before sharing itinerary, Verde de Vélez programme created four facilities however as mentioned, they are waymarked in the province of Málaga, three of which have in opposite directions.

92 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga VÉLEZ MÁLAGA • TORROX: The Subtropical Coast 3

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

he two main activities of the environment Punic tradition, in the east, the Necropolis of surrounding the walk, tourism and irri- Trayamar is located, which, together with the Tgated farming, coupled with increasing previous sites have been protected as part housing demand, require enormous amounts of cultural heritage from the year 2010. The of water. As you can see during Stage 3, the above-mentioned river has its source in the water network is extremely poor and carries Sierra Almijara, between Canillas de Albaida very little water. This is due to the geology of and Cómpeta, in an area that the walk runs the terrain made up mostly of shale and some through at a later stage, and so this river´s limestone, and the short running courses of waters are higher upstream. The other major the natural drainage system of surrounding river in the area is, of course, the Torrox river, hills which are very close to the Sea (with and it also boasts an archaeological site, in the exception of the two main rivers). With this case the so-called Mansio de Claviclum de what´s available, in order for the area to Itinerario Antonino. At the mouth of the river be populated and the economy to function, a salt ﬁ sh factory, garum industry and ceramic water has to be found further north-west (El production were started. Later converted into a Pantano de la Viñuela reservoir) and north Necropolis, these ruins are now directly visible east (Sierra Almijara), as well as searching from the walk. The residential areas and the for underground water. baths are at the back on the “peninsula” which Streams have always been important in forms the tip of Torrox. Torrox River also has the development of this part of the Axarquía its source in the Sierra de Almijara, between region, but it is a very common occurrence Frigiliana and Cómpeta (Stage 5) where it is that during much of the year and the height known as Patamalara, with beautiful crags the Great Path of Málaga crosses, the streams and waterfalls. turn to a mere trickle or dry streambeds with very little vegetation consisting of some cane, Sierra Tejeda and the highest peaks of the province in the oleander and tamarisk. Río Torrox and Río Seco background, seen from the Río Seco riverbed are important to the GR as you walk along them to go down and up from the starting point and towards the ﬁ nish. Between the two main rivers, to list the most notable ones, there are the Río de Algarrobo, El arroyo Mamelucos, Los Ríos de Lagos and Gui, and El arroyo de Manzano. El Río de Algarrobo y Sayalonga is doubly important. Back in the area between the 9th and 6th century B.C. the sea level was higher and the beach was shaped into a cove (not merely a river delta as nowadays) and the elevated parts of the river’s banks were home to Phoenician settlements of Morro de Mezquitilla and Chorreras. On the other side of the watercourse and according to the

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 9393 3 VÉLEZ MÁLAGA • TORROX: The Subtropical Coast

Water is as important to the current inhabi- the coastline. This way, wherever the valley is tants as it was for the Phoenicians and Romans; wide enough the spot is used to build a water along the walk´s itinerary you will ﬁ nd ponds treatment facility, as it happens at kilometre holding water for the irrigation of terraces of 18.2 on the east side of Torrox river, while the subtropical trees, and irrigation channels called manholes and pumping stations are scattered “asequías” that carry the water. Arriving at the along the walk. This place, on the other hand, beach of La Caleta you will ﬁ nd a type of well is a superb spot to learn about the type of called an “aljíbe”; the base is built of stone and irrigation used in the Axarquía region, with vaults are made of brick, it is elongated in shape, crops under plastic tunnels and others grown and equipped with a waterwheel. And a little on terraces on both sides. In the gardens at further down is the Fuente el Pilar, in the middle the beginning of the walk, projects to improve of the N-340 road, a popular water supply in the the irrigation involve the complementary use village. Finally, and as it has become the norm in of the wastewater, with additional water the Axarquía coast, waste water management supplied from newly dug wells and from the faces problems because of the narrowness of reservoir of La Viñuela. WALK DESCRIPTION

El Camino Viejo de Algarrobo bulk of Sierra Tejeda, with its multiple shades At the Francisco Aguilar roundabout, beside of grey, and the distinctive peak of La Maroma, the sports complex dedicated to the soccer player the highest peak in Málaga. Fernando Hierro, leads south-east at the third Passing on the left El Camino a la Loma stage of the GR-249. The track immediately de Bentomiz and its fort, you will soon reach enters semi-abandoned olive groves on a gentle the course of Arroyo Seco (km 1.7). Walk slope. It is a good option for walking as it runs south along the normally dry riverbed until alongside the asphalted road separated from it you have to cross over to the eastern bank by wooden logs. There are a few outdoor gyms and make a 90 degree turn passing through along the road, but the fi rst thing that draws Los Bambúes, which is a gardening nursery. one´s attention is an ancient building in ruins Now you start climbing and heading for an on the opposite side of the track, with stone underpass of the A-7 E-15. Then walk by a arches, stone skirting boards and walls made of housing estate which has a golf course and rammed-earth. To the east there is the imposing asphalted streets. Again, terraced fruit tree fi elds appear at the Cerro Era hill with their La Torre Ladeada or Del Mar in a housing estate watering ponds. The asphalted track ends, on the bank of Algarrobo river the Camino Viejo de Algarrobo continues straight ahead but the GR-249 swerves to the south. The ancient well, described before, is on your right and still stores plenty of water, it is the fi rst sign that you have arrived to the settlement known as La Caleta de Vélez in the area of La Montosa. At Fuente El Pilar cross the N- 340, then head for the beach, leaving the port to the west.

94 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga VÉLEZ MÁLAGA • TORROX: The Subtropical Coast 3

The Coast of Vélez Málaga, Algarrobo and Torrox The walk swerves again heading south- is the small dry dock reserved for repairing east along the beach promenade Paseo fi shing boats, with metal winches right on Marítimo de la Caleta de Vélez, but very the sand and fi shing nets hung out in the sun. soon, at km 5.7, it enters the Algarrobo Entering again Vélez Málaga city limits, in Costa. The walk coincides here with pa- the small settlement of Lagos, you will notice vements separated from the sand by a low how the coastal strip narrows considerably, wall and a line of houses and leads along a with breakwaters built in an attempt to stop one-way paved road. Perhaps unexpectedly, the crashing waves. After that, walk along the traditional neighbourhood shops go hand the N-340, and once you´ve passed by the in hand here with single family houses with Arroyo de Mamelucos stream, walk along two fl oors, a neighbourhood model which the wider shoulder that passes through the has almost disappeared on the coast of Punta de las Ballenas (also known as Morro Málaga province. Then blocks of fl ats with or de Mezquitilla). There are vast views of landscaped gardens and boardwalks start Mezquitilla and Lagos ahead of you, the walk coming into view. In the housing estate on leads along the top of chalky cliffs populated the left, before crossing the river Algarrobo with Sea Daisies, poppies and a few thorny (Sayalonga) it is recommended to go for a bushes. The walk takes you by the earlier little stroll to fi nd the Torre Ladeada (also described archaeological site of Morro de known as el mar o del Portichuelo) dating Mezquitilla and Chorreras, before reaching back to the 16th century; a watchtower the town of Lagos. which was left unused back in its time due Here a majestic row of tall araucaria trees to insuffi cient foundations and the wind and welcome the visitor. In Lagos there are such sea damage. On the other side of the N-340, highlights as the traditional sailor´s houses a direction north, is the tower´s replacement, few meters from the beach, the delta of the the spectacular Torre Depeche or Nueva (18th century), which, as a novelty, boasts a northern stairway that leads directly to the window entrance and which was added as an innovative accessory. It is of the few that can be visited, however it requires a permit from Algarrobo town hall. The wide riverbed of Río Algarrobo, scene of a rich past, has a delicate pedestrian bridge with access ramps and stairs. On both sides of the river, but well separated from it, used to be the Phoenician buildings. Between tall buildings after passing by gardens and sports areas, exactly at the km 7 mark, pay attention to fi nd the elongated nave of the chapel of our Lady of Fatima, of the westernmost neighbourhood of Algarrobo Río Algarrobo (Salayonga) delta is visible most known as Mezquitilla. The highlight here of the time as a shallow pool of water

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 95 3 VÉLEZ MÁLAGA • TORROX: The Subtropical Coast

The village of Lagos seen from the walk through remains of a dune system you arrive along the cliffs next to the N-340 at the main urbanized area of Torrox, the long Playa Ferrara. The walk takes you to El Faro de Torrox located on Punta de Torrox (km 15.5) along a paved promenade. Las Dunas de la Carraca are important because they are the last bastion of a dune systems from Málaga to the east. Its vegetation and wildlife species deserve special treatment. El Río Torrox Sheltered by the Balcón Mirador del Faro which resembles the prow of a boat, the Roman necropolis is easily identifi ed and is found a few metres from the dominating Faro de Torrox located on a rock which cuts further into the Mediterranean. At the foot fl ows the Torrox river. Instead of crossing it, river and the Torre de Lagos tower located on walk along its western bank on an opportune top of an escarpment on the other side of the little path with a grove of poplar trees and road, almost 50 metres above sea level. This casuarina trees. After this new twist in the 16th-century watchtower has a break in its walk the valley becomes very open and the fl ank but preserves part of the plaster with terraced crops begin to fl ank the Great Path linear decorations. After another stretch of the of Málaga. walk between the coastal cliff and the road you You must cross the river twice and the arrive at Playa de Cachin where you continue river normally doesn´t dry out. The usual reeds walking on its sands and cobbles until you reach the river Gui (km 11.1), which marks the A curious traditional construction at the foot of the beach end of the city limits in Vélez Málaga and the where the walk takes you back towards the sand beginning of the area of Torrox in El Morche, with the white Gui or Huit tower located on a 40 m high rocky vantage point. It is similar in style to the previous tower, and neither tower is easy to access. This part of the beach is quite constrained by buildings and various equipment, both public and private. Having passed by a few traditional houses at the foot of the beach, you will reach the seafront in El Morche, where you leave the sand behind. Before crossing Arroyo Manzano stream, fi nd to the right two winches which are rebuilt and signposted. These were used during the 20th century to drag nets from the sea instead of using oxen. After passing

96 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga VÉLEZ MÁLAGA • TORROX: The Subtropical Coast 3 preside over the river banks, but frequently there is also watercress and algae. You may have to avoid passing underneath the N-340 in the case of the water level rising, but the pass underneath the motorway is easier. This bridge is frequented by climbers who have improvised a climbing wall here. The last In El Morche two traditional wooden winches ascent is quite steep and besides making a from the ﬁ shing industry, have been restored bit of an effort here, you must pay attention and walk slowly not to miss the long walls of Convento de Nuestra Señora de las Nieves, on a slope of shale to your left and the citrus trees, loquats and subtropical species. These dry stone walls with large drain channels are the sign marking your arrival in Torrox, at the southern part of the village, where Stage 3 ends? under the balconies of? Calle It is possible to see houses belonging to two very different Almedina street. housing epochs in El Morche

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

1 Avenida del Camino 30S 0402487 2 Mirador de la Maroma 30S 0403420 55 m 55 m Viejo de Málaga 4070123 y Sierra Tejeda 4069835

3 Pozo (a well) en la 30S 0405289 30S 0406245 35 m 4 Río Algarrobo or Sayalonga 4 m Caleta de Vélez 4068020 4067125

30S 0406740 6 Punta de Mezquitilla 30S 0407789 5 Ermita de Mezquitilla 1 m 9 m 4067064 or de las Ballenas 4066800

30S 0409544 30S 0410834 7 Torre de Lagos 6 m 8 Torre de Gü i or Huit tower 6 m 4066766 4066486

9 The winches of 30S 0411640 10 Punta Faro de Torrox 30S 0414511 8 m 9 m El Morche 4066169 and its tower 4064926

11 Crossing of 30S 0415047 12 Calle Almedina de Torrox, 30S 0415120 38 m 125 m Río Torrox 4067090 ﬁ nish pointt 4068117

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 97 4 TORROX • NERJA: La Axarquía oriental

TORROX • NERJA 4 La Axarquía oriental

ESTIMATED TIME 3 hours 15 minutes Altitude (m) El Puerto Mirador de 280 Túneles Sierra Almijara de Torrox Mirador de Cerro Pastora 230 Torrox Torrox 180 Puente de Frutales Góndola Autovía de Nerja las Ánimas A-7 130 Río Río Chíllar Seco Nerja 80

30 0 0.25 0.75 1.25 1.75 2.25 2.75 3.25 3.75 4.25 4.75 5.25 5.75 6.25 6.75 7.25 7.75 8.25 8.75 9.25 9.75 10.25 Distance (km)

LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 10.5 Accumulated ascent 300 Final altitude 70 Ascent km 3.7 Accumulated descent 345 Maximum altitude 265 Descent km 4.2 Maximum difference 235 Minimum altitude 28 Flat km 2.6 Altitude at starting point 135 Average altitude 135

Summary of this Stage The walk in Stage 4 leads down from the town of Torrox to the Nerja coastline. In the fi rst 3 Stages the reference road was the N-340; here the walk follows the direction of the Autovía de Mediterráneo. Maintaining perfectly its general west-east direction, the walk uses a traditional path called Cañada Real de Motril a Málaga. The Great Málaga Path follows this Cañada scrupulously, the only exception being sections where the autovía, the motorway itself, takes over the old path and is built on top of it. The fi rst obstacle you must conquer is the riverbed of the sizeable Río Torrox, which has been done since time immemorial using the two-arched bridge and then a river crossing at a fork where a small tributary joins the main river from the east. The itinerary leads up towards the vantage point between the Cerro Pastora and Cerro del Puerto hills, at 265 m of altitude, and then it skirts the southern slope of Cerro Pastora without losing height and follows dirt tracks. The walk starts descending towards the A-7 again at the point where the surface becomes asphalted and there are the fi rst housing estates. Here the GR takes you through its second river crossing (Río Seco). The long ramble along A-7 service roads eventually takes you underneath the motorway, crosses town peripheries, a stone´s throw from both Frigiliana and Nerja, and takes you across the Río Chillar. The length, the altitude gained and the type of surface used, mainly on wide tracks, makes Stage 4 quite accessible to the traveller. This stage contains only a couple of steep slopes to overcome, one of them going up and the other going down.

Highlights of this Stage El Puente de las Animas is a good example of a traditional road bridge which was placed in the best possible location considering the terrain and the destination of the road. It was built using local

98 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga TORROX • NERJA: La Axarquía oriental 4

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage diffi culty required 1 2 2 3 1.3 8.5 0.7 x 3 Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17 materials and has been very important to the village, even though its old charm pales compared to the brand-new, imposing road bridge which rises merely a few metres away. Slate slopes surrounding Torrox in the east seem to be reclaiming their mountain status here, because of their altitude and their steepness. This feel is added to by Torrox river, a deep gash in the abrupt terrain. Subsistent agriculture, extensive animal husbandry and other types of exploitation have caused deforestation of the landscape throughout the centuries, though from time to time you can fi nd a surviving example of the primeval cork and holm oak forests which used to thrive here. There is a shaded area between km 1.5 and 3 where the existence of such forests in the past is particularly evident. There is also a diversity of shrubs and fauna associated with them, especially birds. The GR lets you visit for the fi rst time along the walk, in a long section, the different types of cultivated subtropical tree plantations, from the extensive areas of irrigated land on the southern slope of the Cerro Pastor to the small terraced orchards where you fi nd the ever-present varieties of avocados mixed with kiwi, custard apple, mango, papaya and loquat. This is a new industry which is taking over, as there is more water made available to irrigate the land compared to the times when only dry crops were grown. The old crops are still present; above there are long dry stone walls surrounding rows of olive trees, some almond trees and a few surviving grapevines. The entire Axarquía coast has witnessed this modifi cation of its landscape at the beginning of the new millennium with the exuberant greenness of foreign trees. These trees require high temperatures which are typical of Axarquía but they also require irrigation which involves intelligent management of water resources. Ultimately, the walk takes you along the fi nal sections of the major rivers: Río Torrox and Chillar which fl ow directly into the Mediterranean Sea in the south, which may encourage you to get to know each one of their tributaries in the future Stages of the Gran Senda de Málaga. The mountain ranges Las Sierras Tejeda y Almijara, though seemingly far away, supply the very necessary water for human consumption and for the industry, mainly agriculture, using drainage channels running along forested mountain slopes.

• Starting point: Calle Almedina in Torrox, in the north, In reality this becomes possible around km 5 in the on a turn. The starting point is south of the centre. area where there are asphalted tracks. All of the • Access to starting point: from the N-340 the best housing estates have exits to the motorway and option is to use the A-7207 road which takes you to connections to Nerja, towards the south and then east. Torrox directly from the coast. However, the Autovía • No return point: It is understood that having climbed A-7S crosses the river next to Torrox and you can el Puerto (km 3.1) the smartest thing to do would be access the village there. descending towards Nerja, not because it is closer • Finish point: Intersection of the Julio Romero to the starting point but because the possibilities to and Picasso streets, close to the Avenida de la fi nd and exit from the walk are greater. Constitución and the Avenida de Pescia, crossing the N-340. There is a car park just at the end of the • Maps: Map 1054-II (Torrox) should suffi ce, but you walk. This is in the northern part of Nerja which could complement it with the one which includes looks over to Río Chíllar. Nerja coastline 1054-IV (Nerja). • Access to finish point: as mentioned above, • District boundries: Obviously the fi rst part belongs crossing the N-340 is a good option, west of a to Torrox. At km 6.1, when the path leads down sports complex Enrique López Cuenca. towards Autovía del Mediterráneo from el Puerto • Possible “escape routes”: the fact that you are you enter the city limits of Nerja. Close to fi nish walking in the vicinity of a motorway, does not point, before crossing Chíllar river, Cañada Real mean that there are many exit points for the walk. path borders with a wedge of Frigiliana.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 99 4 TORROX • NERJA: La Axarquía oriental

or Periana and south to the coast. Frigiliana has its own public paths heading for Málaga which cross the GR-249 at the entrance to Nerja. The GR-92 E-12 Senda del Mediterráneo which coincides with our GR from the finish point of this stage pairs El cañaveral del Río Torrox y el Cerro de la Pastora detrás up with GR-242 Sierra Tejeda y Almijara desde el Camino Viejo de Nerja (from Periana to Nerja) and both GR´s are way marked in the opposite direction to the GR-249. • Enjoy the walk safely Nerja is famous for the guided tour of Crossing Río de Torrox, the stream that its caves and also for its water itinerary follows it and Río Seco, should pose no through the Cahorros del Higuerón (in problems. Río Chillar is another story as it Frigiliana area) and, above all, Río Chíllar. tends to have water all year round except Hundreds of people undertake a descent for times of long droughts. Being so close to along these beautiful river canyons taking Nerja it is possible to try and find a nearby the adventure up to various points along the bridge if the water level is too high. In order river apt for different ability levels, deeper to do so it is recommended to head south to and deeper into the Sierra de Almijara. find the N-340. La Puerta Verde de Torrox, Frigiliana Sections of the path especially at the and Sierra Almijara connects two villages beginning can be quite steep and covered and the sierra to the north of this Stage, in loose gravel. Traffic along the tracks gets creating a good alternative to design a heavier as you get closer to Nerja, where farm circular walk of various days around the vehicles add to people travelling between east part of Málaga province. the villages and housing estates. Asphalted Two protected nature reserves nearby, sections lack hard shoulders so you need to very significant for the walker, are Parade pay attention to the traffic. Service roads Natural Acantilados de Maro y Cerro Gordo along the motorway follow the same pattern. (on the coast towards the east) and Parque In the vicinity of the Góndola de Nerja Natural de las Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara roundabout you must use pedestrian cros- y Alhama, to the north east. In the Nerja sings as the number of cars here and their area the highlights are the ascent of Alto average speed are much higher. There are del Cielo and the footpaths which will be no drinking water sources along Stage 4. used in the 5th Stage of the Gran Senda • Connections to other footpaths and trails de Málaga. The star public right of way road is the Nerja Town hall advertises and recom- aforementioned Cañada Real de Motril a mends five walks through Sierra de Almijara Málaga, which leads to Torrox from the (to the Río Chíllar dam, to the Fuente del Puente de las Animas. The Gran Senda de esparto, to Nava Chica, to Almendrón and Málaga had to abandon the Cañada Real as to the Cuesta del Cielo via la Civila) and the Autovía de Mediterráneo had been built one walk along Arroyo de la Miel (to Peñon on top of it in places. de los Castillejos). The town hall website In the Torrox area other traditional paths offers descriptions of the itineraries and mainly head north to connect with Cómpeta quite clear plans of each walk.

100 GR-249GR-249 GranGran SendaSenda dede MálagaMálaga TORROX • NERJA: La Axarquía oriental 4

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

he Sierra de Almijara, with its impo- here is being able to observe during this sing chain of peaks over 1000 metres short Stage 4 how a diversity of geological Thigh, and the extensive pine forests materials (light and dark-coloured shale and covering its slopes, is the origin of the marbles of Sierra Almijara) make up a “water two most important rivers of the Axarquía landscape” whilst the river and marine dy- region: Río Tolox and Río Chíllar. These are namic in turn create new scenery based on the true backbones of this land, creating travertine limestone, conglomerates, sand deep canyons which separate villages, but and gravel. The embankments of the Autovía also enable transport connections along del Mediterráneo and fl uvial escarpments their valleys. let you admire each of the above mentioned They both represent the main source of a substrata where water accumulates, fl ows very important resource: water. These rivers or circulates. serve as the water source for the population At the end of 2013 the construction of a of western Axarquía and, thanks to a network water treatment plant in Nerja fi nally got the of irrigation channels and aqueducts, sustain green light. It used to be the only place on a good part of the agricultural economy of the coast which did not correctly manage its the region. In the past, sugar cane was the residual waters. Once the situation is back main industrial crop and now it´s the sub- to normal the purified water can be used tropical fruit trees. Close to the border with as a resource, as happens in other coastal Granada province and outside Stage 4, Río settlements, complementing the water which de la Miel and, above all, El Manantial de is diverted from rivers and the growing per- Maro must be mentioned, the latter being centage of water which is obtained through the main draining channel of the dolomite tapping into the underground water system massif of the sierra. The important issue of Nerja region.

Southern end of Torrox with its Convent, terraced sub-tropical orchards and the gorge

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 1011101 4 TORROX • NERJA: La Axarquía oriental

WALK DESCRIPTION

El Río Torrox The Great Málaga Path starts in Calle Almedina, at the southern tip of Torrox, and leads south towards the Ermita de Nuestra Señora de las Nieves and the centre for the social services which is housed in the former Convento de Franciscanos Mínimos. Before you reach the small square next to the convent you will notice on your left a steep path down, which, up to km marker 0.3, coincides Puente de las Animas with its two arches of with the end of Stage 3. The footpath twists stone blocks and mortar and turns along the shale slopes in a steep descent (60 metres of elevation along the 300 m long path). Walking beside Oleanders, turned on its axis; it narrows just as you Narrow-leaved Mock Privet, Prickly Pear and cross the river on the path known as Camino Yellow Woody Thistle (Carthamus arborescens) de Zamora, direction Nerja. The bridge´s pass by a terraced avocado plantation on your popular name, Las Animas (Bridge of Souls) right and then arrive at the bridge El Puente comes from a Torrox legend about the souls de Nuestra Señora de las Nieves (or Puente of Christian warriors who had perished in a de las Animas). Only the base of the original battle in this very spot and now they cross medieval construction survives as it was later the river on their way to the Convent on All refurbished using slate and an abundance Saints night. of mortar. The bridge has two arches and is The long journey of Torrox river starts very high in the mountains of Axarquía, but One of the large Yellow Wooded Thistles and when it arrives at Stage 4, its water level is avocado trees in the background very low, especially in summer. Boxed in the shale rocks which surround the village and covered in dense cane the river offers little botanical diversity, apart from some willow trees. The path, also known as Camino Viejo de Torrox a Nerja, uses a fork formed by the river and Arroyo del Puerto to cross both watercourses. The stream can be crossed simply by wading through. The rock face ahead harbours a few specimens of Ephedra and Nettle Tree. Next, the walk starts climbing and keeps zigzagging south through an area rich in streaks of quartz, to end up under the huge road bridge of Autovía del Mediterráneo.

1101022 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga TORROX • NERJA: La Axarquía oriental 4

This dual carriage way is now behind on covered by a very dense colony of broom and your left and you start following a service cistus species, myrtle and a wooded area of road through more stretches of sub-tropical rugged Holm Oak. This is a very inviting envi- plantations. The road starts veering east ronment for birds, especially thrushes. There and climbs up to the point where there are are remains of an old dry wall visible next to superb views of Torrox; the white village a spring, blanketed with rushes and oleander; over the cliff and surrounded by terraces the path now enters a long and steep climb. of fruit trees. At kilometre 2.7 on top of an escarpment on the right side of the path you will ﬁ nd a great El Arroyo del Puerto specimen of myrtle. Its presence, together with Having climbed the small hill mentioned the cistus species you passed before, proves above, the walk takes you to a cliff, quite that this area could potentially be appropriate transformed by the motorway construction, for planting Cork Oaks. where, surprisingly, there are a few Holm The dirt track is what was used during the Oaks (at km 1.7), one or two Carob Trees construction of the motorway to accommodate and an enormous Buckthorn (Rhamnus ala- lorries carrying loads of sand from the nearby ternus), together with some Lavender and quarry. The area is being restored by protecting Spiny Broom. As you pass two tracks to your the newly-planted trees, installing retention right, the walk starts descending. Following walls and drainage systems. At km 3.1 you the forest track you will have good views to will ﬁ nd the Puerto viewpoint and a 350 m high the Túneles de Torrox, the Torrox tunnels, hill, also called Puerto, to its right, towards until you reach an underground water drain. the south. At this point the walk is crossed The very steep embankment to your right is by an electricity line with its high towers.

Panoramic views from El Puerto over the Bahía de Nerja, the motorway in the foreground and Sierra Almijara in the background

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 103 4 TORROX • NERJA: La Axarquía oriental

La Autovía del Mediterráneo The walk starts descending and there is a good specimen of a Nettle Tree with two trunks next to a ﬂ at parking area on the side Terraced tree plantation with the GR-249 track below of the track. Here onwards smaller plots of land appear, with farms and houses along Over the Cerro Pastora the track, which is now asphalted and leads The scrub along the path consists mainly steeply downhill. of Retama, Spiny Broom and other shrubs Before arriving at Melí, note the speci- resistant to the dry and lonely environment of mens of the rare Yellow Wooded Thistle, old this long 442 metres high ridge. El Barranco and up to two metres tall, just beside the del Puerto gorge starts here; it´s been named track. Its distribution reaches only southern after the same hill as the Arroyo del Puerto Mediterranean Spain and North Africa. The described before. It is a ubiquitous name in the motorway is now ever-present and has many area. The gully which the walk follows, now escarpments which at least are useful to the cut by the motorway, has been turned into an walker by showing the beautiful streaks of extensive and productive subtropical fruit tree colours of the shale which forms the hills. plantation. The result can be overwhelming, The walk leads along service roads parallel to however as you go a little further, you will the main road and arrives at Río Seco (km 7), see remains of the traditional tree species which you need to wade through, and then which were cultivated not long ago. It is continue climbing. The escarpments found possible that the impact on the environment along the GR-249, as it leads up and down then was very similar to the present fruit tree from the locally known plant nursery, are very impact. On the side of the path, at km 4.1, interesting; they show the diverse textures having passed by an intersection leading of very recent sediments, from compacted to some beehives, there is a ruin on a rise sands to looser gravel of various sizes. surrounded by abandoned dry stone walls and olive trees. Just on the very edge of the Traces of the old dry crops of Cerro Pastora, a ruin of path, there is the only specimen of a tree a house and the abandoned dry stone walls which should be dominating the landscape of Cerro Pastora, the Holm Oak. It is here at this point that you are reminded of the old and forgotten identity of this land and its quite recent traditional exploitation. Not far from the olives and the low dry stone walls, a few turns of the path away, the walk is lined with low-hanging avocados. The path takes you to a new mirador (km 5) with views to Vélez Málaga with the Mediterranean to the south and Sierra Almijara in the north. However, any photos of the panoramic view are made difﬁ cult by the same power line seen before over the Puerto hill.

104 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga TORROX • NERJA: La Axarquía oriental 4

Having left an area of pine and herbs behind on your left, with its enormous Aleppo pine tree, ﬁ nd a crossing underneath the A-7 E-12, through the Imaroga area, which takes you to the Góndola de Nerja roundabout at kilometre 9.1, at La Loma de Las Vacas, where you must cross the MA-5105 close to an industrial area. Another descent leads At this point of the walk, Holm Oaks plus dry and irrigated subtropical crops merge to a crossing over the stream Arroyo de las Exóticas; its name comes from an old garden centre. Here, again, orchards and fruit trees appear. The walk passes by water channels of the Chíllar river and the downhill slope ends further on at a river crossing. In order to reach your destination walk uphill again, passing through the part of Nerja which has been built on top of caves and escarpments of travertine limestone, its sediments accumulated here by the river. Kilometre 10.5 marks the end of Stage 4 at Calle Julio As a consequence of the motorway construction, the Romero, close to a sports complex. escarpments show their shale composition

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

30S 0415108 2 Puente de Las Animas over 30S 0415284 1 Convent Las Nieves 135 m 75 m in Torrox 4068356 Torrox river 4068010 30S 0415794 4 The large myrtle above the 30S 0416924 225 m 3 Mirador de Torrox 155 m tunnel in Torrox 4067884 4068216 30S 0417102 6 The ruin and a Holm Oak 30S 0417548 215 m 5 El Puerto 265 m amongst avocados 4068253 4068722 8 Population of Carthamus 7 Mirador de Sierra 30S 0418053 30S 0418672 Almijara y Nerja 215 m arborescens thistles close to 87 m 4068596 the motorway 4068378 30S 0419021 30S 0419400 9 Shale escarpment 66 m 10 Crossing over the Río Seco 30 m 4068353 4068312 11 An underpass of the 30S 0420306 30S 0421279 72 m 12 Arroyo de las Exóticas 65 m Autovía del Mediterráneo 4068551 4068518 30S 0421660 30S 0421832 13 Crossing over the 45m 14 Julio Romero st. de Nerja 70 m Chíllar river 4068422 4068359

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 105 II El GR-249 por el PN Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama

The impressive stone wall of Caz del Molino de Sedella El Parque Natural Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama and the Great Path of Málaga

n 12th November 1989, the Park area sands, but obviously without the necessity was declared a Protected Natural of conquering any of its main mountain OSpace of Andalucía. It has a deci- peaks. However, you can admire from a few dedly mountainous character and spans a selected spots the peaks of El Cielo (1.508 wide range of altitudes: from sea level to m), Alto de la Cuesta del Espartal (1.601m), mountain peaks of over 2000 metres high. El Navachica (831m), El Lucero (779 m), Los Additionally to the Park, there is also a Tajos del Sol (689 m) or la Maroma (2.066 smaller, complementary natural reserve m). One of the most important resources, protecting sea level landscapes called Paraje the landscape, can be appreciated through Natural de Maro y Cerrogordo. so-called miradores or viewing points, which In Granada province, the 40,663 hectares is subsequently suggested in this text. The of Natural Park are formed by Alhama de geological makeup of the Park is characte- Granada, Arenas del Rey, Jayena and Otívar. rised by karst modelling in the rocky areas. However, the Great Path of Málaga literally Heavy rainfall ﬁ ltering through limestone crosses its eight municipalities belonging to has created a large network of potholes Málaga province: Nerja, Frigiliana, Cómpeta, which often manifest their presence with Canillas de Albaida, Salares, Sedella, Canillas water springs, as happens in the case of de Aceituno and Alcaucín. What´s more, the the Río Bermuzas and Cueva de la Fájara path takes you deep into the heart of the sinkholes. The Cueva de Nerja, marking the Sierra de Almijara, and follows its north- beginning of Stage 5, is a cave of internatio- western edge in the remaining section. nal renown and constitutes an underground Time and again the GR-249 lets you system which hasn’t been active for a long experience ﬁ rst-hand the abrupt terrain of time as nowadays water circulates deeper the Park, with its marble rocks and white underneath it. There have been endless

106 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga El GR-249 por el PN Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama II

fi ndings in the cave related to the presence some, very localised, endemic plants. Gum of early humans. Cistus and maples complete the spectrum The cave is situated at 160 metres of of high altitude fl ora. Most of the natural altitude. 4800 metres of galleries have been richness of this area can be discovered by explored and divided into three parts: Tourist following footpaths. The trees here are Galleries, High Galleries and New Galleries, mainly composed of Aleppo pines (Pinus each one representing approximately one halepensis) and Maritime pines (Pinus pi- third of the total. More numerous and fre- naster) which are distributed according quented are the shelters, holes and shallow to the altitude and are well represented caves which have always been populated by along the GR. Pine tree specimens which humans and animals and used as protection are particularly worth mentioning are found against inclement weather (it snows here at Barranco de Chíllar, Puerto de la Páez every year). The most spectacular natural Blanca and Cerro Verde, Los Pradillos and, havens this Stage takes you through are especially, at Cerro del Gavilán. located in El Barranco del Chíllar (you can There are also small islands of Quercus see quite well the ones called El Rincón and species present and one of the best exam- Los Hermanicos), also close to Cortijo del ples is the Holm Oak and Cork Oak areas Daire and Cueva de las Cabras. mixed with Portuguese Oaks, in Salares and In these high Andalucían mountains Sedella. The walk takes you through the entire there is a concentration of some of the most stretches of some of these small forests. At relevant selections of plants of the Park, the very foot of the path you will fi nd such such as yew trees, hedgehog vegetation or special plants as Buxus balearica, Maytenus senegalensis and Cneorum tricoccum which are representative of this protected natural One of the best known images of Axarquía, the minaret of Salares, welcomes you to the village at the end of the Stage space. However, there is also Rosemary, Juniper, Spiny Broom, Esparto Grass and Lentisc; all these plants are adapted to the harsh mountain conditions. Rivers are also heroes of the Great Path of Málaga, possibly more than all the other features. The natural value of the Park´s watercourses is based on the erosion of dolomite sands, creating very abrupt V-shaped passages. These ragged passages are locally known as “cahorros” or “cajorros”, such as Cahorros de Chíllar or Higuerón. The high proportion of dissolved carbonates results in beautiful travertine rock concretions in form of pipe clay coloured cascades; the purity of water rewards us with deep turquoise pools. The vegetation adapted to the seasonal character of the rivers and streams is best represented by Oleander along with willow trees, cane and rushes but also Black and White Poplar and

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 107 II El GR-249 por el PN Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama

bamboo. Very few rivers you cross on the The list of the human-related treasures walk have any fi sh, on the other hand the of the Park must start with the paintings amphibians and reptiles of the forested and archaeological remains in the Nerja river banks are very interesting, as well as Cave discovered in 1959 by fi ve youths from the invertebrates. The large eagles: Golden Maro. The cave was occupied by humans Eagle, Short-toed Eagle and Bonelli’s Eagle dating back to the era between 25,000 and stand out amongst other vertebrates. Reptiles 4000 BC. The cave has been declared an are abundant. There are some squirrels, artistic, historical, and cultural monument. and they leave behind nibbled pine cones Humans must have occupied this territory as traces of their presence. constantly in the past. As you walk along There is a good population of Spanish the GR, note that the line of the villages lies Ibex in these mountains, probably one of along the border between the sierra and the most important populations of this the hills, around the main natural springs. exclusively Iberian ungulate. The animal Geological and biological diversity resulting covers a lot of territory but it is possible from this ecotone (place where different to see this wild mountain goat if you walk landscapes meet), must have been very quietly. The connection between the Ibex tempting for any living being, including and these sierras is so strong that the humans. It is, however, the Muslim heritage symbol of the Nerja Cave is a prehistoric which dominates the landscape, with the painting of a Spanish Ibex. The fi rst type of irrigation channels, mountainside terraces environmental protection in the mountains and type of cultivation as the fi rst identifying here was the creation of a National Hunting features. Many of the villages welcome the Reserve in 1973, due to the presence of the walker with their Arabic bridges or bridges Spanish Ibex. After that, the area gained which have been restored by the Arabs (with international protection forming part of a perfect example over Río Salares). The the projects Red Natura 2000 and Zona nearby Moorish almarin (minaret) has become Especialmente Protegida de Importancia one of the symbols of this protected area. para el Mediterráneo. At the same time, churches and chapels

Rugged terrain, gullies and pine forests of the Natural Park

10811008 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga El GR-249 por el PN Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama II

The walk at its highest elevation in the Natural Park showing the well-regenerating forest are good examples of the area´s development Places which the Great Path enables you later in history and the GR´s itinerary takes to visit include such intangible assets as the you to the main churches and chapels in the many Caminos de Granada which venture out Park, from modest ones to quite grand ones. to the other side of the mountains through The local cuisine, inherited from the perilous passes. These paths used to be Moors, Moriscos and Jews, is based on peppered with roadside inns which catered home-grown dry crops (grapevines, olives, to the muleteers, lime and charcoal makers almonds) and irrigated crops which today and all the people who worked in gardens, include mangoes, avocados and the custard vineyards, and dry crop ﬁ elds scattered all apple, growing fast in the sunlight and over the area. plentiful water supplied by the sierra. The Reviving this nomadic spirit and using the cuisine consists of the traditional game very same landscapes, the Gran Senda gives dishes, lamb, kid, cheeses and stews with the traveller an opportunity to experience this natural ingredients such as fennel, raisins, very unique land ﬁ rst-hand; the land where olive oil and wine. tradition, history, progress and nature unite.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 109 5 NERJA • FRIGILIANA: The Kingdom of the Aleppo Pine

NERJA • FRIGILIANA 5 The Kingdom of the Aleppo Pine ESTIMATED TIME 5 hours 5 minutes

Altitude A.R. Collado Sierra de (m) El Pinarillo Apretaderas Enmedio 550 Pinillo 500 del Aire Río 450 Chillar 400 350 Río Higuerón 300 250 Cueva de Nerja 200 150 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 Distance (km)

LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 14.7 Accumulated ascent 765 Final altitude 310 Ascent km 6.9 Accumulated descent 600 Maximum altitude 565 Descent km 4.6 Maximum difference 422 Minimum altitude 142 Flat km 3.2 Altitude at starting point 145 Average altitude 380

Summary of this Stage The walk starts very close to the sea and you gain height in a long climb to reach 565 m above sea level. Although there are some dirt tracks, paths prevail. There are two sections where the walk descends considerably towards the river Chíllar and Higuerón and a few uphill sections. The terrain is dolomite rock and Aleppo Pine forests. Pay attention to elevation to elevation gained during the stage, both through ascents and descents.

Highlights of this Stage Coming from a coastal town as touristy as Nerja, with the Nerja Cave being a sign of a change in the itinerary, you will be transported to the wild and rocky mountains. Stage 5 enables you to explore two of the most important rivers of the western section of lower Almijara and then the usually dry El Barranco de la Coladilla valley. You will cross the Sierra de Enmedio with spectacular views to the most representative gorges of this part of the Sierra, such as El Almendrón or El Sol and mountain peaks such as El Navachica or El Cielo. The riverbeds of El Higuerón and above all El Chíllar are heavily frequented by the aﬁ cionados of white-water sports. It is worth a mention that there is a network of aqueducts and water access points which use both rivers as water resources.

110 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga NERJA • FRIGILIANA: The Kingdom of the Aleppo Pine 5

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 3 2 2 3 0 7.5 7.2 x 2

Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17

• Starting point: Nerja Cave, about 2 km first populated area. This is a watercourse to the east of town and very close to the walk frequently used by hikers. settlement of Maro. • No return point: from the mountain pass • Access to starting point: A-7 E-5 direc- which you climb from El Chíllar river, it tion Nerja up to the exit 295 and direction is best to continue to Frigiliana which is Nerja Cave. closer (about 6 km away) and the terrain is • Finish point: Plaza del Ingenio in less rugged. However, the rest area, Area Frigiliana. Recreativa del Pinarillo, is located about 4 km away and it has car access. • Access to finish point: MA-5105 with the A-92 E-7 as reference. • Maps: 1055-I (Maro) at the start and 1054-II • Possible “escape routes”: it is possible (Torrox) at the end of the section. to walk along El Chíllar river if water level • District boundries: Nerja (8 km of the allows. However, it is about 8 km to the walk) and Frigiliana (approximately 7 km).

In the foreground a dense Aleppo Pine forest with an outstanding Maritime Pine

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 111 5 NERJA • FRIGILIANA: The Kingdom of the Aleppo Pine

walking along the riverbeds of El Chíllar and El Higuerón. You will need to follow them for quite a long section, ﬁ rst ascending and then descending along them. During the seasons of the year when the water rises, you may have to make a decision not to cross the rivers. • Connections to other footpaths and trails

Barranco de la Coladilla and Cerro Verde Our GR coincides with the fourth and last section of GR-252 (Periana –Cuevas de Nerja). It´s waymarked in the opposite • Enjoy the walk safely direction, as you can see on the information There are no towns or villages along the panels which you can normally ﬁ nd at the whole itinerary. It is recommended to carry a ﬁ nish point, once you have completed the well-stocked rucksack. The only point where corresponding GR-249 section. you can get drinking water is the rest area, Area Recreativa del Pinarillo, about 5 km In the vicinity of the El Pinarillo rest from the start. Although you will be walking area and in the river valleys of Chíllar and through mid-size mountains, you must not Higuerón, there are starting points of foot- underestimate the wilderness of the terrain paths which lead uphill to the main peaks and the changing mountain weather. Be careful of this part of the sierras.

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

he Chíllar river has recently become well El Canal del Río Chíllar taps into the river known to people who practice white water waters higher upstream, actually quite close Tsports at a beginner´s level. The close to the walk, through a major water channel proximity of the river to Nerja and the eastern over 6 km long which carries the water at Costa del Sol, low level of diffi culty, and its a level high enough to power the electricity four spectacular “cahorros”, make the river a station, while the river itself loses height. The very powerful magnet. The river has become channel is accessible but not recommended a focal meeting point for visitors. Despite the for people who have vertigo or who aren´t infl ux of people, the river shows an acceptable skilful enough to walk along it. level of conservation (except for some graffi ti El Río Higuerón also has its own history and occasional rubbish). However, it is diffi cult to see any animals around here except for the of exploitation; in this case it was used for least busy times. irrigation of both traditional and the new The riverbed has been compacted by the sub-tropical crops. cementing effect calcium dissolved in water has Towards the end of Stage 5 you will fi nd on the pebbles and boulders. Most frequently El Pozo de Batán, an enormous water deposit seen plants are Oleander, cane, brambles and with a water pipe which now substitutes rushes; they do not, however, manage to form the old “acequia”, the aqueduct-type water galleried woods. channel.

112 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga NERJA • FRIGILIANA: The Kingdom of the Aleppo Pine 5

This is a spectacular place. It is worth the walk uphill along the river to see its “cahorros”, the rocks hanging low over the river gullies. You will find Osyris quadripartita, Carthamus arborescens and also a novelty, Rhamnus alaternus, along the river bed at the end of the path. The water pipes you will fi nd only a few metres under the Pozo Batán water tank, supply irrigation water left over from a spring called Spiny-footed Lizard, typical inhabitant of sands and Lizar. This spring, situated above Frigiliana pebbles of the Natural Park centre, supplies the town with drinking water. Both rivers are quite boxed in by the rocks which make them shady and also narrower. On the banks there are abundant large lentiscs This results in scarcity of fl ora, restricted to and Spanish Boxwood mixed with thick Aleppo various willow species. Pines. El Barranco de la Coladilla, a gully which Oleander is the great survivor of fl oods runs along the left side of the dirt track up to the and droughts, together with rushes and cane. Área Recreativa del Pinarillo, although smaller Travertine rock is very important along these than the other two river beds, is full of crevices limestone rivers. In the travertine, above the and interesting rock-dwelling vegetation. There water, you will fi nd thriving Southern Maidenhair are some access points on foot leading to it (not Fern and Blue Throatwort. waymarked) from the GR-249.

WALK DESCRIPTION

Up to the Collado de los Apretaderos The ﬁ rst 5 kilometres consists of forest First, underneath a thinned Aleppo Pine tracks in good condition, leading exclusively forest, find a good population of Maytenus downhill. Almost from the beginning the senegalensis, a species of a spiny shrub which track takes you into El Parque Natural de las is threatened and catalogued as “vulnerable”; Sierras Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama. There is it favours climates with a coastal inﬂ uence. only one intersection where you take a left, The Spanish Boxwood (Buxus baleárica) is the track straight ahead leads to Barranco

Romero and la Cuesta del Cielo. El Barranco Pozo Batán water deposit in the river bed of Río Higuerón, de la Coladilla, which you cross as you go belongs to irrigation community of Lizar and Molino down towards Área Recreativa del Pinarillo, de Frigiliana is before that, as you keep to the left of the track, and you can see in the east the forested slopes of Cerro Mangüeno. Vegetation here is unique, and there is an information panel at the beginning referring to the conservation of the ﬂ ora by the Ministry of Environment.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 113 5 NERJA • FRIGILIANA: The Kingdom of the Aleppo Pine

El Río Chíllar and El Higuerón Riverbeds The long gash of Canal del Chíllar is very visible as you walk along the gullies, keeping to the left side of the valley, where it later reappears in the next stage as Mirador de Chíllar. You will cross the channel when walking down the Cuesta de los Galgos towards the water and from here you can truly appreciate its The path leads to size and how much water it carries. From the Río Chíllar, having beginning of Cuesta de los Galgos, you will crossed the water see the Cuesta Jiménez ahead, leading west channel which feeds hydraulic and below the cliff Tajo de las Chorrerillas. facilities below Cuesta de los Galgos then veers away from the forest track at km 6.8. well-represented here due to the dryness of El Río Chíllar is a border between the city the soil, and it tends to grow in shady spots. limits of Nerja (to the east) and Frigiliana (to Somewhat more diffi cult to fi nd, but present the west). You will cross it at km 8 of the here, is the Cneorum tricoccum, a rare coastal itinerary approximately. endemic, typical of tropical climates and very This is a broad V-shaped valley, its bed restricted habitat. It grows along with Dwarf Fan excavated by erosion caused by the river into Palm, Purple Phlomis, Esparto Grass, Lentisc, “cahorros” and enclosures which, although not Juniper, Asparagus, Spiny Broom, a few Carob very high in general, contain some extensive Trees and Kermes Oaks. The Área Recreativa cliffs of varying altitudes. The climb towards El Pinarillo has very good facilities and you can the river is steep. In the current section there stock up on water here. The walk continues is an accumulated elevation of over 1000 me- northwards passing by an “era”, a threshing tres, between the gorges and the challenging circle, and then it crosses El Barranco de la peaks of Sierra Almijara and mostly in the Coladilla, leads steeply uphill and turns left eastern ridges of the mountains. You can onto a track. There is a fork which goes to often hear the bustle of people at the river La Fuente del Esparto, its name serving as a below however they do not tend to climb high reminder of the importance of plants for the enough as to reach the point where GR-249 local economy in years gone by. crosses the river. In this area of dolomite sands you can fi nd the Spiny-footed lizard. Also due to the terrain, The station for measuring erosion and the Area Recreativa which is easily eroded, there has been a Málaga del Pinarillo on the other side of Barranco de la Coladilla University, Tragsa and Junta de Andalucía Nerja region research facility built here, which measures erosion. This facility can be seen when climbing the mountain pass and looking eastwards. A little higher up you arrive at El Collado de los Apretaderos (de las Apretaderas on other maps).

114 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga NERJA • FRIGILIANA: The Kingdom of the Aleppo Pine 5

The majority of the forest consists of Aleppo Pines with Rosemary, Dwarf Fan Palm, Juniper, Esparto grass and Spiny Broom amongst the undergrowth. In some areas the trees are sparse, other areas are dominated by scrub Las instalaciones de medición de la erosión y, al otro lado and places which have escaped forest fi res del Barranco de la Coladilla, el Área Recreativa del Pinarillo are more densely wooded. Passing from this area to the next is done Higuerón involves walking along a dry bed of a by walking along ridges which cut across mountain stream and it is here, along the path dry stream beds, one by one, with Barranco called Cuesta del Sordo, where it´s easy to see del Espejo and its twin Barranco Ancho at Shrubby Violet (Viola arborescens). There is a the end; both are tributaries of Río Chíllar. good stretch of the Río Higuerón where you El Barranco Ancho shows signs of a recent need to fi nd dry land to continue walking. You forest fi re; you will fi nd trees with blackened will actually be walking along the wide riverbed, trunks and branches, and empty snail shells. at the beginning of which there is a concrete In between the gullies there is a mountain irrigation channel, which becomes a line of pass with an interesting name: Pinillo de pipes running through the cane and dispersed Aire (Little Pine Tree of the Air). Just before oleanders. Passing by the Pozo de Batán waters that pass, you will fi nd a half-preserved lime is always pleasant to the traveller, especially kiln, remains of a past lime production of an when the weather is hot, although taking a almost industrial scale. dip here is not recommended. The rest of the El Mirador del Tramo is situated on the walk leads in a slight zigzag between limestone Loma de las Garzas, the last rocky bastion of outcrops which tend to be bigger and bigger in this section and a must-do stop to look back size and where shelters and caves appear until at the distance you have covered (eastwards) the steep concrete Cuesta Apero, which fi nishes and what´s coming next. The descent to El Río at the very Plaza del Ingenio de Frigiliana.

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM) 30S 0424476 30S 0424220 1 Cueva de Nerja 145 m 2 Área Recreativa 465 m 4068982 El Pinarillo 4072901 30S 0423840 30S 0423840 3 Mirador del Cielo 540 m 4 Collado de los 540 m (E) 4073214 Apretaderos 4073214 30S 0422936 30S 0423135 5 Mirador del Río 550 m 6 Canal del Río Chíllar 405 m Chíllar (S) 4074179 4074010 30S 0423840 8 Puerto y Mirador de la 30S 0422569 7 Vado del Río 335 m Cuesta de los Galgos 525 m Chíllar 4073214 (E) 4073947 30S 0421139 30S 0420673 9 Mirador del Tramo 475 m 10 Río Higuerón 295 m (E and W) 4073253 4073277 30S 0420496 30S 0420263 11 Pozo Batán 270 m 12 Plaza del Ingenio 310 m 4072799 Frigiliana 4072245

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 115 6 FRIGILIANA • CÓMPETA: Maritime Pine Territory

FRIGILIANA • CÓMPETA 6 Maritime Pine Territory

ESTIMATED TIME 8 hours 30 minutes Altitude Collado de Collado Cruz (m) los Hornillos de Canillas

1100 Cortijo del Puerto de la Daire 1000 Paez Blanca 900 800 Fin de El Acebuchal carretera 700 600 500 Frigiliana 400 300 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 Distance (km) LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 26.4 Accumulated ascent 1.065 Final altitude 685 Ascent km 11.7 Accumulated descent 680 Maximum altitude 1.180 Descent km 8.1 Maximum difference 890 Minimum altitude 290 Flat km 6.6 Altitude at starting point 300 Average altitude 810 Summary of this Stage This is a long leg of the walk, without a doubt. There is a stretch of road for about 5 km and from then on you will be climbing continuously along forest tracks, ravine ﬂ oors, and mountain paths, skirting the western slopes of Sierra Almijara. You will have climbed the total of 1.350 m and from there you will descend continuously along a footpath until you reach Cortijo or Venta de María Guerrero, where there is a 4.5 km of track which leads to Cómpeta.

Highlights of this Stage The same as Stage 5, Stage 6 constitutes an immense mountainous area covered in forests, in this case Maritime Pine. The walker has a privileged position here from which they can reach the surrounding peaks, above all the peaks of El Lucero or El Cisne. One of the places which stand out is Paraje del Daire, and the beginning of El Barranco Moreno ravine with its numerous tributaries you will be crossing one by one. The ﬁ nal part follows in the footsteps of the route of old roadside inns along the Camino de Granada (the beginning of another ravine, Barranco del Acebuchal, also used to be lined with roadside inns). Then the walk takes you to a very special vantage point from where you can admire the landscape: the immediate surroundings of La Cruz de la Canillas, both towards the Sierra Tejeda ahead and La Almijara behind you. This spot is so prominent that there is an observation point, belonging to the forest ﬁ re prevention group called Infoca, on top of Cerro Gavilán (or Peñon de Calimacos) which potentially could be used to control this vast territory quite easily.

116 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga FRIGILIANA • CÓMPETA: Maritime Pine Territory 6

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 3 2 2 4 5.7 13 7.7 x 2

Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17

• Starting point: Plaza del Ingenio de Frigiliana. immediate surroundings of the observation • Access to starting point: from the A-92 point of Infoca and then come down towards E-5 road take an exit direction Frigiliana Cómpeta or the Hotel de la Casa de la Mina. onto the MA-5105. • No return point: practically it would coincide • Finish point: Plaza del Carmen de Cómpeta. with El Collado de los Hornillos, the highest point of Stage 6. • Access to finish point: there are two possibilities of exiting the A-92 E-5, direction • Maps: 1054-II (Torrox) starting point of Algarrobo or Torrox. Stage 6 1040-IV and (Canillas de Albaida) at ﬁ nish point. • Possible “escape routes”: this is truly complicated. Up to Cortijo del Daire (km • District boundries: you will be in Frigiliana 16) the best option is to go back (covering town limits until km 10.7 approximately, up to 8 kilometres) using the track towards in El Collado de la Paez Blanca, although El Acebuchal. From the point at El Collado the Barranco del Acebuchal marks the line de los Hornillos it would be advisable to between town and village limits. The rest try and reach the track of El Daire which of the way, up to km 18.5, you´ll be walking passes underneath the footpath. The track within Cómpeta village limits and then bet- from Cortijo del Daire has car access. You ween Cómpeta and Canillas de Albaida. In could continue along the GR and look for fact the last ravine is named Arroyo de las the forest track which takes you to the Jurisdicciones (The Jurisdiction Stream).

Two cyclists freshening up at the stream crossing of Arroyo de Juan Rojo which is showing its clay coloured streaks

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 1171117 6 FRIGILIANA • CÓMPETA: Maritime Pine Territory

up all of your day. Be careful walking the stretch of the road leaving Frigiliana up to the intersection of Cuatro Caminos. This part of the road is very narrow and lacks a hard shoulder. Not only should you walk on the left but also in a single file, making yourselves visible. Be extra careful at times of limited visibility.

Aldea del Acebuchal Alto, mountain settlement at a • Connections to other footpaths and trails privileged location The third stage of the walk GR-242 Periana- Nerja coincides with Stage 6 of GR-249 fully, • Enjoy the walk safely but it is sign-posted in the opposite direction. A climb of 1.350 metres of altitude should The road at the starting point has an access not be taken lightly. There are peaks of 1.700 to Vereda de Frigiliana a Cómpeta. Later on, m and higher in these mountains. The contour from Cuatro Caminos up to La Venta Cebolleros of the mountains is very rough, with semi-open the walk follows the old Camino de Granada, valleys, gorges and ravines. This is why it´s which used to lead to Granada province through very dangerous to venture away from the sign- La Venta Camila and the Puerto de Frigiliana posted footpaths. Up to the halfway point of this pass. The GR-249 connects here with some stage there are places where you can stock up local footpaths. It also follows the same iti- on untreated water or, at least, freshen up in summer. However, there is only one populated nerary as the so-called Puerta Verde Torrox- place along this stage. Also, the observation Frigiliana-Sierra de Almijara. From El Collado tower is possibly visited by workers during ﬁ re de los Hornillos the GR-249 joins and follows risk season. The walk is long and tiring and exactly another walk to Granada, the Camino it´s essential to plan well for such a physically de Granada-Cómpeta. This walk goes through demanding activity which will practically take a well-known pass called Puerto de Cómpeta.

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

l Barranco del Acebuchal ravine is the fi rst ridge separating El Barranco de las Majadillas watercourse you will cross, however in this ravine, in the west, from the Barranco Moreno, Earea it becomes a completely dry, wide and in the east. The two streams you have to wade walkable streambed. However, one of the reasons through are, in that order, Arroyo de Juan Rojo why there are settlements here, such as the and Arroyo del Mirlo (on other maps the latter Acebuchal Alto y Bajo, has been the existence appears as Arroyo de la Zarzadilla). These of natural water springs in the area. At this point streams shortly become El Barranco Moreno, the only watering point is a tiny fresh water where you can fi nd a few surviving wild cherries. spring which forms a small puddle at Venta del The stream crossing is done in a wide area along Cebollero. the track and it shouldn’t pose any diffi culties. The major streams of the area are at the Just as you cross the second stream you will Cortijo del Daire, situated right on top of the fi nd a footpath called La Cuesta de los Civiles.

118 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga FRIGILIANA • CÓMPETA: Maritime Pine Territory 6

El Barranco Moreno is adapted to prac- tising canyoning; in this case the itinerary is not too complicated. The only challenge is posed by a 20 metre high waterfall in the main riverbed where you have to abseil. One of the accesses to the canyon, a little path, can be seen just as you pass Arroyo de los Close-up of calcium deposits of Barranco del Acebuchal, Mirlos. Another access option would be to with visible bedrock and a stone wall pass El Cortijo del Daire, leave the GR and continue a little further until El Arroyo de travertine waterfall. All the watercourses here las Majadillas, walk down the streambed to ﬂ ow down carrying carbonates and they tend the point where it joins the previous stream. to leave behind plentiful tufa deposits. Here, at the headwaters and at this altitude, As you climb towards El Collado de los brambles reign over the watercourses, together Hornillos, at km 17, you will see the water with Oleander, rushes and a few willows. The deposit for Cómpeta; this gives you an idea lower part of the gully is slightly more open, of how rich in aquifers the area is. The walk mostly harbouring clumps of Oleander. takes you along the pipeline and you can see El Cortijo del Daire and other nearby far- the inspection covers. mhouses were able to survive in the past thanks Finally, the area of the old roadside inns such to the plentiful water coming from springs in as Cándido and Los Pradillos, is rich in water the high mountains. The kitchen gardens of sources, which are reﬂ ected in local names but Cortijo del Daire are still recognisable; they also in the presence of clusters of rushes and take advantage of an upper terrace of an old poplars growing in between the pine trees. WALK DESCRIPTION

Towards the Aldeas del Acebuchal and Venta del Cebollero Layers of rammed-earth wall over an arch-shaped opening, Having walked the inevitable stretch of Venta del Cebollero the road, take a downhill track which passes through the Paraje de Cuatro Caminos and descends towards El Acebuchal. Pass by a house where a tiled mural tells a story of an orphan who was buried alive, with a gruesome description of her remains which were taken to Vélez Málaga. The history of the two farmsteads, El Acebuchal Alto and Acebuchal Bajo (Upper and Lower Acebuchal) is very much connected to water and the gardens which make up 3 hectares of cultivated land, both on Cómpeta´s side where the houses are, and on the side belonging to Frigiliana.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 119 6 FRIGILIANA • CÓMPETA: Maritime Pine Territory

Aleppo Pines and a few ﬁ rst Maritime Pines, there is dense underbrush of large gorse bushes and Rosemary. Here you can ﬁ nd unusual plants such as Anthyllis citisoides and Ononis speciosa with Bupleurum fruticossum growing close to the ruin of a threshing circle. The highlight of this section is the Venta del Cebollero or de Jaro, very close to beehives which have been installed here to take advantage of the dense rosemary bushes growing in the open areas. The “venta” was positioned before the climb Supporting walls of the Daire track, surrounded by sparse Rosemary bushes along the Camino de Granada (these inclines do not cease until Venta Panaderos on the The progress of the local population has been other side of the sierra, in Granada Province). very much connected to the Camino de Granada, They used to complement the hospitality suggesting that the mule drivers and the “service services by working in the vineyards, which stops” along the way which tended to them, surrounded the venta in those times. Apart may have triggered the settlements here. There from the afore-mentioned water sources, other are information panels in the area which tell unique features are the architectural elements the story of these mountain inhabitants and the of the Ventas and other nearby buildings, Maquis (guerillas who fought against Franco) which seem to go back to much earlier than also the story of the depopulation caused by the 18th century they have been dated to. the Civil War. There are good examples of rammed-earth Having walked for almost 8 km, at El walls with putlog holes which can be seen Acebuchal, take a narrow path uphill following very well from the outside, a frequently used a streambed most of the time, sometimes taking andalusí (Andalucían-Moorish) technique very in and out short-cuts. In the shade underneath well suited to these dry environs.

Panoramic views from a viewpoint along Stage 6

120 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga FRIGILIANA • CÓMPETA: Maritime Pine Territory 6

Dirt Track Network Starting from the venta the dirt track network truly begins. The one that the Gran Senda de Málaga follows, climbs up to the Puerto de la Páez Blanca pass (750 m), leaving the Cerro Verde hill to the left. This is a place of bloody skirmishes between the Guardia Civil and people who sought refuge in these mountains after the war of 1936. You will notice enormous Maritime Pine trees which stand out in the landscape; they have escaped forest fires unlike some previously walked areas. Also worth mentioning are centuries-old grapevines. El Cortijo del Daire and its terraces looking over El Arroyo de las Majadillas In general, the dirt tracks in the area climb from El Acebuchal, circle the rugged western slope of Cerro de las Tres Cruces, skirt half stop to admire the impressive dry stone walls the slope of the Cortijo area and the southern which support the dolomite sandstone and are face of La Loma del Daire. Then they pass on true works of great craftsmanship. These walls both sides of El Cerro Gavilán, heading for harbour Viola arborescens growing in between Cómpeta, as they descend from the east and sparse Rosemary bushes. El Cortijo del Daire west side of the hill. The GR-249 uses the dirt dominates the broad valley from its privileged tracks only up to Cortijo del Daire, a farmstead vantage point. There are some quite large ca- which has a deﬁ nite Andalucían-Moorish feel. ves on both sides of the Cortijo however they Along the dirt tracks there is a notable are somewhat difﬁ cult to locate, one of them elevation gain between the Cerro de las Tres lies underneath travertine limestone. Beneath Cruces until the ravine El Barranco Moreno. the house, the terraced farmland still shelters There are spectacular views towards the moun- a few surviving walnuts, pomegranates, fig tain cirque where the valley begins. Halfway trees, and wild olives. Currently there are also between the pass and the farmhouse you should a few beehives.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 121 6 FRIGILIANA • CÓMPETA: Maritime Pine Territory

walkers having a break under the large Maritime Pine with Sierra Almijara behind

Towards el Collado de los Hornillos and La Cruz de Canillas of this Camino from now on. At another This is the wildest part of this stage. junction, a little lower down, there are Starting from kilometre 16 marker you leave the Ventorro de Cándido and Venta de los the forest track behind and walk on a path Pradillos, remains of old inns which prove which climbs the white sandy slopes and that you are following the old transit path dolomite ridges covered with dense Rosemary for people and animals. This doesn´t seem and Gorse bushes, recuperating after a ﬁ re to have been so long ago when you are which ravaged these slopes not that long ago. passing by lime kilns and inns such as the Ignore some footpaths to the left (towards La one called De María Guerrero. Between Loma del Daire) and to the right (leading to a this house and other Ventas there is an water reservoir and to Lucero) and continue outstanding, enormous Maritime Pine tree, until you reach Puerto de los Hornillos, where majestic looking amongst other incipient there are splendid examples of surviving young trees. To the east you will see far in Maritime pine trees, giving you an idea of the distance another signiﬁ cant watercourse the original aspect of the mountain slopes. called el Arroyo de los Pradillos. It’s worth The mountain pass is the highest point of the mentioning that there is a view point at this itinerary and you start descending using a stage, which lets you visualise the whole ravine which twists southwards. On the right itinerary from Puerto de la Páez Blanca with you will pass by paths to Puerto Blanquillo and Barranco Moreno between the two points. Puerto de Cómpeta. The latter is an important Following the track southwards arrive at landmark along the Camino de Cómpeta a Casa de la Mina and its hotel. However, the Granada. The GR will be following a part GR passes on the other side of the ridge.

122 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga FRIGILIANA • CÓMPETA: Maritime Pine Territory 6

From La Cruz de Canillas to Cómpeta As you walk over the pass of La Cruzde Canillas (having covered 22 km up to this point), the views are equally beautiful: towards the west, then to Sierra Tejeda to northeast and of Játar in the north; all are impressive. From the many forest tracks choose the one west of the watershed and towards Collado Moyano, leaving on one side the access to the fi re fi ghting observation point in Cerro del Gavilán. The Maritime pine wood you’re walking through is particularly lovely. Its appearance is a result of having withstood inclement weather, winds and thunderstorms The Lucero footpaths from the climb up El Collado de los Hornillos as well as poor, insuffi cient soil, animal grazing and forest fi res. Unlike trees in planted forests, here each specimen is unique in small trees as you walk along the track. Except shape, not very tall with gnarled trunk, thick for a short section of a narrow path, the walk bark, twisted branches; the trees resemble downhill towards the drinking water deposit larger-scale bonsais. for Cómpeta and a football fi eld is done along There have been attempts of abating the a track, surrounded with Esparto grass, Dwarf desolate feel of the area by planting more pine Fan Palms and Lavender. The fi rst houses of trees, with varying degrees of success, and Cómpeta come together at the square called La you can see the protective tubes around the Plaza del Carmen, where Stage 7 is completed.

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

30S 040263 30S 0417634 1 Plaza del Ingenio 300 m 2 Cuatro Caminos. 460 m de Frigiliana 4072250 End of tarmac 4073816 30S 0417761 30S 0417702 3 El Acebuchal 500 m 4 Puerto Paez Blanca 715 m settlement 4075305 4077148 30S 0417692 30S 0418287 5 Mirador del 775 m 6 Cortijo del Daire 860 m Barranco viewpoint 4078221 4079371 30S 0417841 30S 0417717 7 Mirador del Lucero 1.080 m 8 Collado de los Hornillos 1.180 m viewpoint 4079970 4080306 30S 0416803 30S 0415584 9 The old Venta de 1.045 m 10 Mirador of Stage 6 1.070 m los Pradillos 4079923 viewpoint 4078897 30S 0415225 30S 0413255 11 Mirador de Sierra 1.070 m 12 Plaza del Carmen de 685 m Tejeda viewpoint 4078642 Cómpeta 4077145

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 123 7 CÓMPETA • CANILLAS DE ACEITUNO: Villages of Sierra Tejeda

CÓMPETA • CANILLAS DE ACEITUNO 7 Villages of Sierra Tejeda

ESTIMATED TIME 8 hours 30 min

Altitude (m) Puerto de la Cruz del Muerto La Herriza A.R. Sedella 820 Canillas de Sedella 770 Albaida 720 Río Salares Almanchares 670 Puente 620 Romano Ermita 570 S. Antonio Cómpeta Canillas 520 de Aceituno 470 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 Distance (km)

LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 25.1 Accumulated ascent 1.070 Final altitude 634 Ascent km 10.8 Accumulated descent 1.040 Maximum altitude 858 Descent km 9.1 Maximum difference 393 Minimum altitude 465 Flat km 5.2 Altitude at starting point 610 Average altitude 684

Summary of this Stage Stage 7 enters the mountainous area of Axarquía which has been transformed by human beings. The walk climbs towards the mountains from one village to another visiting the total of ﬁ ve villages: Cómpeta, Canillas de Albaida; Salares, Sedella and Canillas de Aceituno. Each village is separated from the next one by at least one major watercourse.

Highlights of this Stage You will be crossing some of the rivers which flow direction south towards the Mediterranean Sea, from Sierra Tejeda, walking over some spectacular bridges Roman and Arabic in origin. You will also walk up to various watchtowers from where you will be able to admire the nearby mountains and beautiful villages of the Axarquía wilderness. You will be able to visit some of the villages. Additionally to the terraced orchards in Canillas de Albaida, there are pretty oak forests before the village of Salares, and pine woods close to Sedella. The succession of rivers and woods, villages and historical bridges, mountain landscapes and the possibility of adapting the dynamic of the itinerary to your taste make Stage 7 a much recommended stage of the GR.

124 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga CÓMPETA • CANILLAS DE ACEITUNO: Villages of Sierra Tejeda 7

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 2 2 2 4 6.5 10.1 8.5 x 1

Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17

• Starting point: The Ermita de San Antonio elsewhere is relatively well connected. It is chapel in the north-west area of Cómpeta. advisable to follow the better quality road • Access to starting point: The MA-112 towards Salares, which is the closest, or road to Cómpeta and then following the otherwise to Canillas de Albaida which long Calle San Antonio. also has good vehicle access. • Finish point: The south-east entrance to • Maps: 1040-III (Canillas de Aceituno) Canillas de Aceituno, by the roundabout initially and then 1040-IV (Canillas de with a sculpture devoted to “Labrador de Albaida) to continue. la vid”, a vineyard worker. • District boundries: El Arroyo de las • Access to ﬁ nish point: From the A-7205 Jurisdicciones (km 0.5) is the border of to the MA-4106. the villages of Cómpeta and Canillas de Albaida, which in turn borders with Salares • Possible “escape routes”: At each of at Cruz del Muerto (km 7.5). Salares and the villages that you cross (Canillas de Sedella are very close, and they become Albaida, Salares y Sedella) but also via one administration district in Herriza, at the MA-4105 close to Sedella along a few kilometre 14.5. Lastly, you change village kilometres of asphalt. districts from Sedella to Canillas de Aceituno • No return point: The only somewhat in Puerto de Sedella, at the end of the road, difﬁ cult area is after the Cruz del Muerto, at kilometre 22.5.

The walk between Cómpeta and Canillas de Albaida, adapted for walkers, is lined with almonds, olives and carob trees

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 1251125 7 CÓMPETA • CANILLAS DE ACEITUNO: Villages CÓMPETAof Sierra Tejeda • CANILLAS DE ACEITUNO

are stretches where you will be walking along the road, above all during the long section from the Área Recreativa de Sedella to the Puerto de Sedella. In addition, there are stretches of asphalt or concrete where vehicles can drive at high speed. • Connections to other footpaths and trails Subtropical cultivation converges with the traditional dry land crops and pine woodlands along this section of the walk The seventh Stage of the Gran Senda de Málaga is also the second of the GR-242 Periana Nerja, but in the opposite direction. • Enjoy the walk safely Between Cómpeta y Canillas de Albaida there This is a long stage with a signifi cant cumu- is a lovely path, neither marked nor offi cially lative elevation gain, as you pass through three approved, that serves as a promenade for populated areas you can stock up on suffi cient both villages. supplies and water, or, be able to stop walking As you leave La Puente de Canillas de in bad weather. Bear in mind that you will climb Albaida you will fi nd a couple of itinera- up to 850 metres twice in this mountainous area. ries designed by the workshop school “La In the confl uence of the Arroyo de los Álamos Aceitera” starting from El Molino, to the with the Río Salares, close to the Casa de Haro, Hoya de la Virgen and to the Cruz del Muerto. there should be no problems in wading across. The latter joins the GR at the Cerro Cuevas. The Almanchares River can have high water Arriving at Salares the GR connects with in times of fl ooding, but you do have the option the SLA-64 footpath Sendero del Monte de to continue on the road from the Puerto de Salares, a circular path which is ideal for Sedella. It is worth a special mention that there family groups.

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

quiet wander is recommended through nearby confl uence of Cajula (which will be the orchards in the fi rst part of the walk on your right for a long stretch) and Turvilla A to the dry stone walls forming steps at (de la Real in some maps and in others Las the foot of an irrigation channel supplied with Allanás). The bridge is practically sandwiched water from a large pool that you’ll see later between wild fi g trees and willows that grow near Canillas de Albaida. The attachment of in the enclosed river bed. In the more open this village to water is apparent when, along areas there is Erect Dorycnium, Oleander, and, the way, you see the ornamental water channel on a small shady cliff, Ephedra and Juniper. below the chapel Ermita de Santa Ana. Beneath Before arriving at Salares, you will pass the village, a bridge sign-posted as the Puente by the Umbría de Haro below the farmhouse, Romano, situated in the area of the Molino, and wade across the Arroyo de los Álamos has served as a crossing point of the Rio Frío (also known as Fogarate) which is a tributary for many centuries. The river is a result of the of the Salares River that you’ll also cross,

126 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga Los pueblos de Sierra TejedaCÓMPETA • CANILLAS DE ACEITUNO: Villages of Sierra Tejeda 7 using the excellently restored Arabic bridge. There is no direct access to the river bed but it has interesting bank-side vegetation and subtropical orchards on both banks. During this section, just before entering the town village limits of Sedella, you’ll be walking uphill along one of the canals that carries The white building of the Ermita de Santa Ana overlooks water down, in this case rapidly, from the the beautiful village of Canillas de Albaida mountains towards the cultivated plants. Later, you will the Río de la Puente on the outskirts that ensured the constant supply of water of the village, after you have descended to during the milling. Lastly, the Almanchares the Cortijo dela Herriza, but the mountainous River is famous for its barranco, one of the character of the river only allows meager most rugged and longest ravines of the Sierra Oleanders to grow in this area. Tejeda. Upstream, where the path crosses it, You will fi nd the mill Molino de Montosa, there is a possibility of doing some canyoning, which has recently been restored, above which here is medium diffi culty level. There are Sedella, passing by several well cared-for about 8 abseiling descents, not very high, at orchards.You will be able to see the water the most 15 meters, and the access to the top wheel and its paddles, but pay attention to is by the high canal which is accessed from the the huge masonry wall that directs the water Área Recreativa La Rahige (between Canillas to the storage deposit at the rear of the de Aceituno and Sedella). The waters which building.It is also possible to see the large fall from La Maroma are clear, but their level pool, shaped to the contours of the land, drops signifi cantly during the summer.

WALK DESCRIPTION

he description of this stage has El Camino de la Puente leads downhill from Canillas de Albaida been divided into many subsections with Sierra Tejeda, the destination point, in the background Tcorresponding to the walk sections between villages. From Cómpeta to Canillas de Albaida In the north-west part of Cómpeta you can easily locate the Ermita de San Antonio Abad Extramuros, a smaller equivalent of San Sebastián, this you can access easily from the long Calle San Antonio street. You will be following 2 kilometres of a walk joining Cómpeta and Canillas de Albaida, practically level as it runs parallel to an old irrigation channel, which is now piped, and which supplies water

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 127 7 CÓMPETA • CANILLAS DE ACEITUNO: Villages of Sierra Tejeda

to the terraces of traditional orchards mixed with avocados and other subtropical fruit trees. In the abandoned areas, or those less productive for crop growing, there are good specimens of Small-leaved Elms, European Nettle trees and The traditional “paseros” for drying grapes, with the White Poplars. At the beginning, the track has white hamlet of Canillas de Albaida behind been improved using albero (a crushed yellow sedimentary rock) and lined with wooden rai- Los Caminos de la Puente, Cruz del lings, but in the Arroyo de las Jurisdictions it Muerto and the Umbría de Salares changes to a dirt track surrounded by dolomite; a prelude to the mountains. Above the track Bypass the village of Canillasde Albaida there are olive groves which are sometimes to the north, at the foot of the Ermita de colonized by Juniper, Rosemary, Gorse and Santa Ana (in the urban area we can also White Rockrose, and soon they give way to locate the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la planted pine woods. A little further along you Expectación and the Ermita de San Antón) will cross the road which leads to the quarry and you will arrive at a transformer. Behind of Canillas de Albaida and the mountains, but it, the Cuesta de la Puente begins, a stone your walk continues below. paved track with wooden rails which goes down to the Puente Romano and then ascends in a westerly direction. Close to The restored Puente Romano over the Río Frío, the Molino, two sign-posted paths begin. and the GR-249 You will be climbing a recently restored historic road, until you connect with the asphalted road in the area of Fogarate, where there is a dirt track to the north offering the possibility of fine views over the village and a tour of the vineyards and olive groves in the hills, passing by some “paseros” (raisin driers). At the Cerro Cuevas the ascent leads into a pine forest and into the Parque Natural de las Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama. The climb follows a line marking the boundary between the replanted Maritime Pine forests and the crops of figs and grapes on the southern slope of the Cortijo del Bailarín. The mountain shelters a scrubland of Montpelier Cistus, with Purple Phlomis, Grey-leaved Cistus, Genista umbellata and Gorse. They reach their best at the pass of Cruz del Muerto, where you start walking on a track again.

128 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga CÓMPETA • CANILLAS DE ACEITUNO: Villages of Sierra Tejeda 7

Next, leave this excellent forest track after about two kilometres, changing to a less-preserved track to the left, and leading down to Solana de la Casa Haro or Jaro. Notice a small helipad and a mini reservoir used for fi re fi ghting as soon as you begin the descent. The Cortijo is a very important landmark for hiking in this part of the Parque Natural. It retains some non-irrigated cultivated terraces and dispersed fruit trees. The Puente de Salares, which gives access to the village, The path which appears to the west of has been restored to its former splendour the ruin leads to a forest of Holm oaks, with Cork oaks and Portuguese oaks, a refreshing change from the previous pine woods. Finally From Salares to Sedella through the track fords, without diffi culty, the Arroyo Marchena and La Herriza de los Álamos, a tributary of the nearby Río Climb through the El Encinar on a good Salares. La Umbría de la Casa de Haro, as it dirt track leading to Cruz del Muerto, up to is known, is a well-preserved forest on the Benescalera where, after passing Fuente eroding slopes of the limestone Cerro de de Ocaña and a huge threshing circle, turn Peñas Blancas. Once at the valley´s base, towards Cerro Marchena on a steep incline. the road maintains its height between the Leave the track in search of a concrete trees to the Cortijo Fofa and it heads to the canal following it until you reach a small village across the very interesting Puente wood of Maritime Pines. You will come across Árabe, excellently restored, used formerly some streams with rushes and a small pool for the workers to travel to Barranco de la at the side whilst walking up to the hill with Mina and to transport the salt which lent views of the Hoya de Salamanca. its name to the village. Then, walk along the hill a few meters westwards (km 15) until you start descending, and head for Cortijo de la Herriza. From there, walking through slate and a sparse scrubland of Grey-leaved Cistus and Gorse, zigzag down to La Puente bridge and stream. In this area there is a rare fern on the rocks and the path’s retaining walls, Cosentinia vellea. In the fi nal section, in front of the track which leads to the area east of Sedella, you will fi nd pine woods and, above all, Holm oaks, growing on the steep slopes of the Arroyo de la Puente and the Barranco Blanco respectively, whilst El Cortijo del Daire and its terraces overlooking the the track that the GR follows is completely Arroyo de las Majadillas devoid of trees.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 129 7 CÓMPETA • CANILLAS DE ACEITUNO: Villages of Sierra Tejeda

From Sedella to Canillas de Aceituno via the Área Recreativa and El Almanchares At Sedella pass through the higher part of the village from the town hall, “Ayuntamiento”, towards a few well manicured orchards above the village. Their location has been chosen because of an irrigation channel, which accompanies the path next. On the top of the hill called Hundidero, overlooking the village, you can see the ruins of a small castle, or a watchtower, of Arab origin. Follow the canal, which leads to a restored hydraulic mill on a rise, the Molino At the natural springs of Sierra Tejeda and Almijara traditional de Montosa, from which the water is taken to irrigation channels carry water to mills and gardens the village and there are excellent views west of the Cerro del Tablón hill, which blocks the view of Sedella village. approach the bottom of the valley. When you have walked 20 kilometres, it is ne- A forest track takes you by a source in a streambed, where willows and Redoul grow, cessary to do another two and a half along and to the Área Recreativa de Sedella, to the the road before reaching Puerto de Sedella, west of the village, where there are tall pine ignoring the intersections to Rubite and Los trees. The picnic/rest area has good facilities. Valverdes. When the hamlet of Canillas de Walk up to the sculpture of a Griffon Vulture, Aceituno comes into view, at the pass where, descending along an asphalted road which the to your left, there is a hill curiously named GR follows. There is a spectacular Holm oak, Rompealbardas (Saddle Breaker), you have its branches arching over the road, where we to make a steep descent to the Almanchares

The walk takes you along the Cortijo de la Herrriza on the way to the Sedella village in the Axarquía

130 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga CÓMPETA • CANILLAS DE ACEITUNO: Villages of Sierra Tejeda 7 riverbed, while the motorway follows a wide curve and crosses the river upstream, then connects with the GR again, almost in the village. The GR now follows the La Cuesta del Molinillo which is very steep; it leads to a ford which generally does not pose any danger, and passes between semi-abandoned vineyards and ancient terraces of almond trees. The mill referred to in the name “molinillo” can The support walls hold a selection of specialist plants, one of which is be seen whilst climbing the dirt track uphill. the rare fern Cosentinia vellea There are also terraces of old citrus fruits and subtropical trees, growing very close to the Almanchares riverbed. Here it is sheltered by Oleanders although further down it opens up. The track ascends. Ignore the many farm and ﬁ eld accesses to the left while opposite, to the south, on the slope of the hill with a house on top; you can see the densely wooded La Hoya del Alcornocal. The dry farmland at the end of this stage has numerous Olive trees and is packed with country houses that end at the public swimming pool and the roundabout This spectacular Holm Oak arches over the asphalted road at the entrance to Canillas de Aceituno. which leads down to the Área Recreativa de Sedella

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

1 Ermita de San Antonio 30S 0412825 30S 0412214 610 m 2 Northern area of Canillas 610 m Abad chapel in Cómpeta 4077269 de Albaida 4078604 3 Puente Romano, bridge 30S 0411712 30S 0410640 470 m 4 Puerto de la Cruz del 850 m of Canillas de Albaida 4078556 Muerto 4080050 5 Casa de Haro or 30S 0417692 30S 0408886 745 m 6 Puente árabe de Salares, 570 m de Jaro 4078221 Arabic bridge 4079394 7 Puerto de la 30S 0408715 30S 0408295 850 m 8 La Puente de Sedella bridge 660 m Herriza 4081179 4080962 30S 0408062 30S 0407139 9 Sedella, north 690 m 10 Área Recreativa de 820 m 4080363 Sedella, rest area 4081121 30S 0405284 30S 0405147 11 Puerto de Sedella 670 m 12 Vado del Río 545 m 4080727 Almanchares river crossing 4080953 13 Sculpture of 30S 0403721 “Labrador de vid” in 635 m Canillas de Aceituno 4081444

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 131 8 CANILLAS DE ACEITUNO • PERIANA: Between sierra and farmland

CANILLAS DE ACEITUNO • PERIANA 8 Between sierra and farmland

ESTIMATED TIME 5 hours 35 minutes Altitude (m) Canillas de Loma de Aceituno las Canillas Periana

600 Cueva de Alcaucín 550 la Fájara Mirador del Pilarejo Río Seco 500 450 Río 400 Alcaucín 350 300 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 Distance (km)

LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 17 Accumulated ascent 620 Final altitude 570 Ascent km 7.7 Accumulated descent 690 Maximum altitude 640 Descent km 6.8 Maximum difference 340 Minimum altitude 300 Flat km 2.5 Altitude at starting point 635 Average altitude 515

Summary of this Stage This stage passes through a mid-size village, Alcaucín, which separates two very different landscapes. Going to Alcaucín the GR lowers to the Garganta de los Tajos Lisos then crosses at the Cueva de la Fájara with its upwelling. Then, always on trails, it ascends along the boundary between the Natural Park of the Sierras Tejeda, Almijara and Alhama and the cultivated areas, among pine woods and olive groves, marked by a fence which is dissected by numerous gates. After Alcaucin there is a succession of ups and downs via several water courses, the ﬁ rst being a steep slope to the river Alcaucin. You will walk on forest trails of varying conditions, passing through olive groves to connect with the old train line that went up to the Boquete de Zafarraya, arriving at Periana station and entering the village.

Highlights of this Stage The site of the Cueva de la Fájara cave is spectacular from a geological and speleolo- gical point of view. The walk along the boundary of the Natural Park offers the chance to compare the reforested areas with the more human inﬂ uenced sectors, keep in mind that not too long ago grape vines dominated these very slopes of the sierra.

132 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga CANILLAS DE ACEITUNO • PERIANA: Between sierra and farmland 8

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 1 2 2 3 8.4 4.6 4 x 3

Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17

Both sections follow traditional footpaths which used to connect the villages. There are superb views, as you walk towards Periana, of Boquete de Zafarraya, the tourist area and residential area of Pantano de la Viñuela and Comares village. Strolling along the old train tracks of Málaga to Ventas de Zafarraya, which was in use between 1922 and 1968, is also one of the curiosities and attractions of this stage.

The Cueva de las Cabras, very close to the Fájara cave and spring, at the beginning of Stage 8

• Starting point: Extreme north-west of • No return point: In the fi rst section, at the Canillas de Aceituno, at the road entrance, Cueva de la Fájara. In the second section, close to the football pitch. after the Alcaucín River, it is unnecessary • Access to starting point: Exit 272 of the to retrace your steps, it is better to use the A-7 E-15 direction Zafarraya and then A-356, asphalted tracks to return to the village. A-7205 and lastly the MA-4106. • Maps: Initially 1040-III (Canillas de • Finish point: Entrance to Periana to the Aceituno) and for the fi nal part 1040-I east, at kilometre 7 of the A-7204. (Zafarraya). Periana is in a corner of • Access to fi nish point: Main road A-7204.. 1039-II (Periana). • Possible “escape routes”: Alcaucín at • District boundries: Village district of km marker 6 would be your best option. Canillas de Aceituno up until kilometre After this, there are many junctions with 4 at Loma de Canillas. Alcaucín district main roads or asphalted tracks; you will stretches from this hill to Arroyo Seco, also be passing many inhabited houses, at km 12.5. The remaining 4.5 kilometres and farmhouses. belong to Periana.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 1331133 8 CANILLAS DE ACEITUNO • PERIANA: Between CANILLASsierra and farmlandDE ACEITUNO • PERIANA

be aware of the vehicles, which here could include motocross bikes and mountain bikes. • Connections to other footpaths and trails This eighth stage is the mirror image of the first stage of the GR-242 Periana- Nerja, which starts in Periana. Fájara source, which is on the left of the path if you walk downhill a little, along the streambed The first part of this stage follows the pedestrian way which always used to connect Canillas de Aceituno with Alcaucín in • Enjoy the walk safely a straight line. However nowadays the walk The only part of the walk which is a bit does not follow a straight line; it actually wild is the descent to Cueva de la Fájara. As leads in a wide curve at Loma de Canillas. it is a narrow pass where the two ravines This has been caused by the Cantera de unite to form the Río Bermuza river, you must Alcaucín quarry, as it interferes with a be extremely cautious wading through during large section of the limestone mountain, rain and in flooding season. to the point that the original walk has been Fording the Alcaucín river would not permanently cut off. normally present any problems; however In the second part the GR coincides with there is a bridge close by which you can the Camino Periana to Alcaucín up until use for this crossing. it crosses the cog railway line of the Tren On the asphalted tracks and the stretches Cremallera de La Viñuela a Periana and of main road, as always, it is necessary to then the walk follows that line.

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

n the area you are crossing for the most part there is one dry river bed, although at IFájara two ravines coincide, those of Tajos Lisos and to the west, Cueva de Don Pedro. This is an excellent place for exploring caves as there is an appealing cave shelter called La Cueva de las Cabras, and then the Fájara area´s own cave; Cueva de la Fájara. This cave is very close to the previous one, down amongst the Oleanders. The galleries of the latter are 1.500 metres long. In the lower galleries there are three siphons from which the water escapes when the water table rises and the aquifer is Stone-paved path which the GR-249 follows at the at its highest, to the point that water starts border of the Natural Park ﬂ owing from the cave’s entrance.

134 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga Between sierra and farmlandCANILLAS DE ACEITUNO • PERIANA: Between sierra and farmland 8

In addition to the two caves, the third noteworthy element is the the Nacimiento del Río Bermuza river source located a few metres below where you’ll cross the river, overgrown with brambles and Oleanders. It´s only been partially explored as it is a totally ﬂ ooded siphon. The water is regulated right at the source by an Sunset with the view of Axarquía coast from the walk “acequía”, a water channel, which starts here. The Alcaucín River comes from a spectacu- of importance is the Río Seco, formed by the lar area to the west of the Sierra Tejeda, the streams of Los Migueles and Los Blancares just Barranco del Alcázar ravine, and ﬂ ows between before the ford with a concrete base. Here the olive groves. It has interesting riparian vegeta- riverbank vegetation is quite altered by some tion, principally Willows and Oleanders, and eucalyptus trees which serve the purpose of it has enabled the development of subtropical stabilizing the soil, but there are still some ash crops along its banks. The next watercourse trees, tamarisks and reeds.

WALK DESCRIPTION

From Canillas de Aceituno to Alcaucín grasses and rosemary and a little further on The exit from Canillas de Aceituno leads you will arrive at a group of houses, which also straight to a footpath between pine trees, it remain to your left. Here the cultivated area cuts through several small dry gullies to the of olives and almonds is more cared for, and start of a steep, downwards slope towards includes some grapevines. You continue with the west and ﬁ nishes at the bottom of the the same destination as before, with another ravine. Towards the north you can see the lime kiln on the way, until culminating in the large entrance of Cueva de las Cabras, adapted Loma de Canillas pass, where the natural as a corral for cattle and enclosed by a dry line of the walk is altered to the northwest stone wall. The Cueva de la Fájara cave is a little below the spring of the Bermuzas Well preserved lime kiln on the left of the path in between the pine trees river which falls in a short cascade through a narrow channel to just beneath a large rock where the main river begins. The track gains height rapidly, passing through one of the many gates which cross the border of the Natural Park, which from here, remains on your right behind the fence. The pathway sometimes has a stone surface, it climbs continually, occasionally between pines, but mostly at the outer edge of the woods. There is a lime kiln to your left, between the esparto

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 135 8 CANILLAS DE ACEITUNO • PERIANA: Between sierra and farmland

From Alcaucín to Periana The tone changes entirely in this second part. The walk is now unequivocally to the east, between ﬁ elds of non-irrigated crops, mostly well maintained olive groves. These roads are going to Pilarejo and los Cortijillos, the second nucleus of houses remain on your right having dismissed the concrete track as nothing more than an exit to Alcaucín. After fording the river and leaving behind the Molino Barco mill, you will connect with it again. The views towards Alcaucín from the Pilarejo hill are spectacular, especially in the evening. There is a contrast between Fuente de los Cinco Caños at Canillas de Aceituno, the wooded limestone slopes and the sett- where Stage 8 begins lements, marked by the line of the water sources that have always fed the springs, because of the conspicuous scar of the quarry such as the well known Cinco Caños de at Alcaucín, whose excavations force you to Alcaucín. A little further on the leading turn sharply toward the southwest. Now the role is taken by the Boquete de Zafarraya, walk runs along a dirt track with vineyards on the most direct and easy route to reach the both sides, in a moment it will be concreted, province of Granada from the western Costa near an area of antennas. There is a long del Sol. In fact, it crosses the motorway A-402 descent that passes by the base of the quarry, and you aim for that. The railway used to the houses become more frequent and from go through the Boquete, from the east, to here you will arrive at Alcaucín. reach train stops at Ventas de Zafarraya.

El Pantano de la Viñuela, between century old Olive Trees and many scattered houses

1131366 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga CANILLAS DE ACEITUNO • PERIANA: Between sierra and farmland 8

But do not forget the views to the south, with the reservoir of La Viñuela lording over the landscape and Comares village watching from the hill top. You will notice the large number of dispersed buildings, something that has caused more than one problem for the urban development plans in the area. Another view of the Pantano de La Viñuela from a different vantage point on the GR After fording the Río Seco the GR passes by the road signs to Veredas Blancas and El Hoyo del Toro and a slight incline takes you up to the Estación de Periana station. The next train platform is that of Matanza which also has information of possible destination points. Periana can boast to being a great vantage point to see Axarquía, as from its viewpoints you can appreciate the views and landscapes of the region: the corridor Colmenar to Periana with the Montes de Málaga towards the west, the reservoir of La Viñuela and the Hoya de Vélez Málaga to the south and the Boquete de Zafarraya and Olivos those who have made them soil to facilitate the the Sierras Tejeda y Almijara to the east. collection of olives

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

1 Canillas de Aceituno 30S 0403044 30S 0402371 635 m 2 Cueva de la Fájara cave 440 m Football Ground 4081953 4082620 3 Puerto de la Loma 30S 0401318 4 Cantera de Alcaucín 30S 0401089 630 m 525 m de Canillas Pass 4084044 quarry 4084241 5 Alcaucín centro 30S 0400840 6 Río Alcaucín river and 30S 0400027 510 m 300 m urbano Town Centre 4084821 Molino Barco mill 4085710 7 Mirador del 30S 0398565 30S 0396608 515 m 8 Río Seco 430 m Pilarejo viewpoint 4085947 4086755 9 Estación de 30S 0394916 30S 0394442 620 m 10 Periana Eastern area 570 m Periana station 4087834 4087652

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 137 III The Central Limestone Arch and the Gran Senda de Málaga

La Sierra de San Jorge from El Jobo, when the walk approaches the highest point of the itinerary The Central Limestone Arch and the Gran Senda de Málaga

n the province of Malaga, there is a string Torcal (1.346 m), Cabras (1.283 m), del Co or of mountains, limestone for the most part, del Codo (1.353 m), de Camarolos and Jobo Iconnecting the Sierra de las Nieves, to the (1.641 m), Gorda, de San Jorge (1.413 m) west, with the Sierra Tejeda in the east, with and Enmedio, alongside other smaller ones. a clear border vocation between northeastern The Guadalhorce river, begins at the Puerto regions and Antequera with the south of the de los Alazores, it is forced to traverse the province. For the lack of a popular or traditional northern area of the mountains until it fi nds, or name that unifi es them, they have been called even forces its way south, in the Desfi ladero the Arco Calizo Central (Central Limestone Arch), de los Gaitanes, which is an area of reservoirs. Cordillera Antequerana (Antequera Mountain The railroad infrastructure also passes through Range), Dorsal Bética (Betic Spine) or Arco this area, made possible by the means of Calizo Malagueño (Málaga’s Limestone Arch). tunnels. The highways of major importance They cover a length of 50 kilometres from utilize the Puerto de las Pedrizas pass (1.040 m the Desfi ladero de los Gaitanes to the Puerto in altitude) to connect the plains of Antequera de los Alazores, and a width that is augmented with the Costa del Sol. towards the east, from 5 km at the Sierra del The mountain formation, therefore, is Huma to 11km in a straight line in the area responsible for separating two very different that you begin your journey at the start of the climatic zones, the depression of Antequera in Gran Senda de Málaga. the north from Axarquía, the Hoya de Málaga From the halfway point of the Guadalhorce and the Valle del Guadalhorce in the south. river and towards the west you can see in One of the reasons for the good climate along succession, the Sierras del Almorchón (619m), the coast of Málaga is the obstacle posed by Pizarra, Huma (1.186 m), Valle de Abdalajís these mountains reducing the winds from the (1.186 m), Llana, de las Chimeneas (1.378 m), north. This mountain range is formed in parts

138 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga The Central Limestone Arch and the Gran Senda de Málaga III by the districts of Álora, Ardales, Valle de Here, the natural karst relief, with the Abdalajís, Campillos, Antequera, Villanueva scarcity of soil that is associated with the del Rosario, Villanueva del Trabuco, Alfarnatejo pronounced slopes and altitude has preven- and Alfarnate and to a lesser part Riogordo ted excessive use of these mountains and and Periana. deterred the establishment of population The Great Málaga Walk takes you into centres in the heart of sierra. This has this magniﬁ cent succession of sierras at its gained the site a biogeographical island western end (a journey that will be described status where you can ﬁ nd plants and animals in the relevant chapter) and the part we are that are extinct in the surroundings due to concentrating on now, the east. The latter is the intensive agriculture. Anthropogenic perhaps the most interesting from a geographi- practices in the area have been limited to cal point of view (if not geologically or for the agriculture, extensive livestock farming, scenery) as it includes the highest altitude of hunting and at most, some mining activity. the range, the largest concentration of rugged Out of all of these activities in the sierras, mountains, the most representative gorges and the quarries removing aggregates and the connecting with two unique villages that can road infrastructure have been the most be considered to be within the parkland, on harmful, but all in all these were isolated the spectacular mountain planes of Alfarnate cases. This means that the Central Limestone and Alfarnatejo. It is unique to the extent that Arch of Málaga retains many of its prime this last enclave has been described with the ecosystems, sometimes with considerable inappropriate name of the Small Pyrenees. extension and in good preservation.

El Tajo del Fraile, one of the landmark cliffs in the area viewed from the access path to Alfarnatejo

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 139 III The Central Limestone Arch and the Gran Senda de Málaga

Another factor to be considered is its value occasions. The threats posed to the area are as a Green Corridor between other natural specifi cally; the overexploitation of groundwater, areas of the province and for some species quarries, wind turbines, urban expansion projects, in particular, for example the Spanish Ibex, the use of poisons, livestock overgrazing and which is a wild mountain goat endemic to hunting. In regard to the direct relationship Iberia. Despite all we have described here, of the Great Málaga Walk with the Central the Arch is not completely protected, only in Limestone Arch of Málaga, the eastern part is isolated spots, such as the Parajes Naturales a highly recommended itinerary. Begining with del Torcal de Antequera and the Desfi ladero de the journey from Periana to the area of the Río los Gaitanes as the main bastions, and other Sabar, with the mass of the Sierra de Enmedio areas under the umbrella of the Red Natura and its areas of wild olive trees on the southern 2000 and LIC (Lugar de Interés Comunitario). slopes settled with picturesque farmhouses. In From the scientifi c fi eld, environmental groups the vicinity of the Río Sabar a journey begins and regional development, its designation as a in the crescent shape of the gorges, with the Natural Park has been proposed on numerous Bermejo, de Doña Ana, Gomer and Fraile to the

In the north-east cliffs of the Sierra de San Jorge you can practice climbing

140 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga The Central Limestone Arch and the Gran Senda de Málaga III

Mirador del Alto de Hondonero viewpoint and the Sierra de Camarolos right while the Sierra del Rey appears on the left of the Sierra del Jobo and of the Dorsal Bética, with the peak of Cerro Castejón, it is here that the peak is named Chamizo. Tussock grasses, the river Río Borbollón begins, between Holm dwarfed spiny shrubs and maples take over at oaks with Portugeuse oaks and Turpentine trees. these exposed altitudes. In your descent the You fi nally arrive on more gentle terrain at the Sierra de Camarolos remains to your left and poljes of Alfarnatejo and Alfarnate, the latter going via the Dehesa de Hondonero you will is a more level area, after climbing the Sierra arrive at the opposite end of the Arco Calizo de Enmedio at its north western end through alongside the springs of Villanueva del Rosario. the landscape of Malinfi erno. Once you have The stretch to Archidona is just a means of getting arrived at this narrow valley enclosed between to the next point, it isn’t like walking through mountains, you will now ascend to the highest the mountains but you are passing by the last part of this range. Leaving fi rstly the Sierra de bastions of limestone and the loamy-fi elds of San Jorge and later the Sierra Gorda, with its the Hoz del Arroyo Marín as a culmination of pines and Holm oaks, to the right, you will climb the past escarpments. In fact, in Archidona it to the Puerto del Quejigo, which is the highest is the Sierra de Gracia which is now at the point of the GR-249, very close to the summit forefront of the Betic domain.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 141 9 PERIANA • ALFARNATEJO (PULGARÍN ALTO): The Train and the mountain hamlets

PERIANA • ALFARNATEJO (PULGARÍN ALTO) 9 The Train and the mountain hamlets

ESTIMATED TIME 3 hours 30 minutes

Altitude (m) Mirador Cortijo Cruce a de los Peñones Marchamona 875

825 Mirador del Aldea de Cortijo de Tramo 775 Guaro Zapata

725

675 Periana Pulgarín Alto 625 600 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 Distance (km)

LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 13.5 Accumulated ascent 415 Final altitude 670 Ascent km 6.7 Accumulated descent 320 Maximum altitude 880 Descent km 4.6 Maximum difference 290 Minimum altitude 590 Flat km 2.2 Altitude at starting point 590 Average altitude 730

Summary of this Stage The Stage 9 begins the walk through the Limestone Central Arch in Málaga leading up to the Stage 12. From Periana it leads in search of the beautiful districts of Marchamona, where at the cross-roads it reaches its maximum altitude, and the hamlet of Guaro. Then it directs you towards the west to the foot of the Sierras de Alhama and Guaro (La Torca, 1500 m) and the Sierra de Enmedio (Vilo, 1,415 m). From the hamlet of Guaro the itinerary acquires a jagged proﬁ le passing through an area of dense Mediterranean vegetation and olive groves, until it reaches down to the towns of lower Pulgarin and higher Pulgarin.

Highlights of this Stage The four villages which are in this stage deserve a peaceful visit, even if Marchamona is out-of-the-way. Guaro is noteworthy, especially in the rainy seasons as the waterfalls at the source of the river Guaro are then brash and deafening. The farmhouses Cortijo de Zapata and Cortijo la Cueva situated between the sierra and the ﬁ elds make up a typical picture of integration into the environment. The wild olive trees in the vicinity of the Cortijo de Zapata and the Monte of the Cerrajon de los Baños recall the Mediterranean forest, with plenty of vines and evergreen thickets. And from this site the landscapes towards the surrounding mountains and low Axarquía are spectacular.

142 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga PERIANA • ALFARNATEJO (PULGARÍN ALTO): The Train and the mountain hamlets 9

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 1 2 1 3 0 13.0 0.5 NO

Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17

Finally, entering Pulgarin Bajo the walker is welcomed by olive groves which are hundreds of years old and without a doubt, photogenic, also there are views to the gorges of Caballo and Bermejo to the north and Tajo (gorge) de Doña Ana to north-west.

The GR uses the old train line at the beginning and passes under many bridges

• Starting point: Eastern area of Periana, • No return point: At the highest point follow the Torre del Mar Avenue and of travel, where it is connected with the leave the village along Algarrobo GR-7 E4, it is better to go to Guaro. Then, Street. from the viewpoint Mirador del Tramo onwards it is preferable to continue to • Access to starting point: the access road is the A-6118, or from the A-7 Lower Pulgarin. A-335 or by the A-3100 from Colmenar. • Maps: 1040-I (Zafarraya) to begin with and 1039-II (Periana) to finish. • Finish point: Hamlet of higher Pulgarin, road MA-4102, close to lower Pulgarin. • District boundries: almost the entire walk leads through the municipal district • Access to finish point: MA-4102 road, of Periana and its surrounding villages which climbs to Alfarnatejo. Marchamonas and Guaro. From the Cortijo • Possible “escape routes”: The village de la Cueva (km 11.5 approximately) you of Guaro is a good point of reference enter the municipality of Alfarnatejo as a place to look for help if necessary. (Lower and Higher Pulgarin).

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 1431143 9 PERIANA • ALFARNATEJO (PULGARÍN ALTO): ThePERIANA Train and • ALFARNATEJO the mountain hamlets(PULGARÍN ALTO)

of the Great Málaga Path. The Southern Branch in Málaga consists of three phases. In regards to this stage two phases are relevant: of Riogordo to Guaro and to Zafarraya.

The Cortijo de los Peñones, between limestone The ones called “end of the railway” outcrops, on a rainy day (km 4.5) and high Pulgarin coincide with the GR geographically, although not in the • Enjoy the walk safely sense of the description that appears in the panels. From Periana to km 4.5 the surface Caution is needed at the intersection of the route is that of the old railway of the road from Alfarnate and in through which used to run between Periana and the Alfarnatejo. Zafarraya, the line westward following Tracks which this stage crosses are heavily the GR from here. used by two-wheeled vehicles, which, if they travel downhill, can carry enough speed. Between the Marchamona junction and the Cortijo de la Cueva the trail coincides • Connections to other footpaths and trails with the Royal Path of Málaga to Granada The GR7 E4 Tarifa-Athens, from Villanueva coming up the hill from the west, from the de Gauche, has two branches. Southern village of Riogordo. Finally el Sendero de Branch goes to the province of Granada, Diputación Provincial de Málaga known as the other one heads to Córdoba, and could Boquete de Zafarraya-Mondrón can also be an alternative to discover in later stages be undertaken in the Cerro López.

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

here are no major streams during this flow of irrigation. And precisely from the stage but there are significant spring Guaro horticulture comes the legend of Tsources. The birth of the river Guaro “The maiden of the river Guaro”, a Moorish belongs to the basin of the river Vélez and is blue-eyed girl increasing the water flow located in the same village. It is a vauclusian with her eyes until the day she disappeared upwelling that bursts out in rainy season leaving things as they are now. History and is depleted quickly. Even then, it is one blends with the dependence of humanity of the main contributors to the reservoir of on drinking water and the Andalucían La Viñuela, of up to 100 l/s come from the proverbial relationship with the element. carbonate aquifer of the Central Limestone When you cross the road from Alfarnate, Arch; one of its mountains behind the villa- to the left there are a couple of water ge reaches 1,500 metres of altitude as the sources, a lagoon and the Baños de Vilo. Summit of La Torca. The latter is renowned for its medi- Above the spring, there is a gallery with cinal properties, which even have led to auxiliary probes, excavated to regulate the the construction of a spa. Recently it has

144 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga PERIANA • ALFARNATEJO (PULGARÍN ALTO):El TheFerrocarril Train and y las the aldeas mountain de la hamlets sierra 9 been refurbished again for tourists as country-style accommodation. Finally, in the vicinity of the Cortijo Zapata, a huge farmstead used as a rural hotel, there is a small water source but important as a shelter to a singular grove. There is a very dense copse of Elms with large specimens, joined by poplars and fruit trees which are particularly fond of water, such as walnut The major rocky escarpments are coated with spiky and fig trees. plants and pines

WALK DESCRIPTION

The Zafarraya Train and streambeds. The walking surface is quite The fi rst steps of the stage take the traveller good and the dirt track climbs gently. You will to a historic site, the layout of the railway line pass by a quarry converted into a landfi ll and from Málaga to Ventas of Zafarraya, which little by little the path will enter limestone area was dismantled and the only preserved part which has been cut by the road construction is the pavement and the adjoining buildings. and formed trenches fi lled with young pines. The train project was started by the EIn the vicinity of the Cortijo de los Peñones commuter railroads company of Málaga in the views over to all of Axarquía are impressive, 1905, using Belgian capital to manage local dominating the whole landscapes of the region, narrow-gauge line trains. Already in 1908 as mentioned in the previous Stage. A little the stretch to Vélez Málaga was working, crossing the rolling hills of the Axarquía coast. further up, the track veers gently to the right This stretch was also the last one to close in and on your right you can see the origin of the 1968. In the area covered by Stage 9, the train arrived in Periana in 1921 and connected the In the higher levels reached during the day, the track is village with Las Ventas de Zafarraya in 1922, fl anked by large Aleppo pines but due to the steep slopes which had to be conquered and despite the layout following wide curves, the trains had to be aided by a of cog wheels, becoming the well known rack railway. In 1960 the railroad closed and it never did manage to join the province of Málaga with that of Granada. In Stage 8 you passed through Estación de Periana, this Stage gets you close to the train line, still recognizable by the numerous bridges either for vehicles or connecting ravines

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 145 9 PERIANA • ALFARNATEJO (PULGARÍN ALTO): The Train and the mountain hamlets

The Hamlets of Periana and Alfarnatejo districts At the beginning of this new stretch which takes you downhill and westward, ignore the immediate junction to Marchamona, a village which dominates the basin of the river Guaro from its rocky hillock. Guaro village consists of a small group of houses and is inhabited by about 80 people dedicated to extensive animal husbandry and dry land and irrigated farming. The number These ancient olive groves on a steep slope grow long of groups of houses, from the seasonally dry stone walls inhabited farms to established nuggets of population is remarkable here. The walk name of the farmhouse (Rock Farm), a limestone leads along the foot of the mountain, so rock face of considerable height, facing north. the landscapes are typically mountainous, It harbours a tall scrub of Holm oaks, broom, with outcrops of 700 metres rising behind gorse and Kermes Oak, a promise of a future the houses. While strolling between olive mature forest. Here and there, limestone cliffs and almond trees, note frequent signs of make up a maze ﬁ lled with shrub vegetation. erosion, cliffs of gray limestone and the Ignore junctions to Fuerte and mezquita steep treeless slopes. and climb a slope between the hills Cerro In the Cortijo de Zapata landscape de los Mosquitos and Cerro de López, where changes, the south flank of the Sierra de you also abandon the old railway line. There Enmedio is covered by a striking dense are remarkable views towards the west and grove of wild olive trees. As you pass a east of the Limestone Central Arch and splen- farmstead the road becomes a forestry did specimens of pine trees that pepper the path, branching off to the left, which leads embankments. through a real jungle covering the ancient

The reservoir of the Viñuela from Cerrajon de los Baños

1141466 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga PERIANA • ALFARNATEJO (PULGARÍN ALTO): The Train and the mountain hamlets 9 olive groves with all the Mediterranean the road, Pulgarín Alto, two hamlets of species so well-adapted to the heat, with Alfarnatejo, welcome the walkers as they special mention to the enormous mastic finish this Stage. trees and climbing plants. This area is dedicated to controlled hunting. After the penultimate hill the walk descends among olive trees with a drip irrigation system towards the Cortijo de la Cueva (named after the small cave at the of the house) with good views of the Colmenar Periana corridor, a peculiar geological area. The last ascent is undertaken at the threshing circle at the farm, in mixed terrain between mountains and olive groves, some of these crops growing along dry-stone “albarradas”. The last descend takes you by a cen- tenary olive grove, some of the trees are enormous with gnarled trunks. The road ends in a series of winding curves and you can admire some of the cliffs which form part of the celebrated Ruta de los Tajos, namely the Bermejo and Doña Ana. Mediterranean “jungle” in the foreground, in the background the Pulgarín Bajo and, on the other side of bare limestone mountains and the settlement of Marchamona

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

1 Av. Torre del Mar en 30S 0394440 2 Mirador del Cortijo de los 30S 0394831 590 m 825 m Periana, street 4087648 Peñones, viewpoint 4089286 30S 0395637 4 Junction to la Aldea de 30S 0395667 3 End of train line 870 m 865 m 4089925 Marchamona 4090397 30S 0394264 6 Cross roads MA-4103 30S 0393380 5 Hamlet of Guaro 715 m 738 m 4091310 Periana-Alfarnate 4091145 30 S 0392520 8 Mirador del Tramo, 30S 0391206 7 Cortijo Zapata 715 m 743 m 4091050 viewpoint 4090231 30S 0390479 10 Pulgarín Alto, 30S 0389207 9 Cortijo de la Cueva 685 m 670 m 4090063 Higher Pulgarín 4090542

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 147 10 ALFARNATEJO (PULGARÍN ALTO) • ALFARNATE: The Route of the Gorges and Flatlands

ALFARNAJETO (PULGARÍN ALTO) • ALFARNATE 10 The Route of the Gorges and Flatlands

ESTIMATED TIME 4 hours 35 minutes Altitude (m) Alfarnatejo Alfarnate 850 Mirador de los Mirador 800 Tajos y Periana Tajo Gómer 750 Pulgarín Alto Cortijo de Auta 700 Puerto de Río Borbollón Sabar 650 Río Sabar 600 550 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 Distance (km) LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 18.1 Accumulated ascent 540 Final altitude 885 Ascent km 8.3 Accumulated descent 360 Maximum altitude 895 Descent km 5.7 Maximum difference 350 Minimum altitude 548 Flat km 4.1 Altitude at starting point 710 Average altitude 730

Summary of this Stage This itinerary describes a great arch in the anti-clockwise direction between Pulgarin Alto, a village of Alfarnatejo, and Alfarnate. As you wander, you pass on your right the rocky mass of the Gorges of Doña Ana and Gomer and on the left the dry farming fi elds and olive groves, until you come to the riverbed of Borbollón, marking long climb towards the plains in Alfarnatejo, where the walk fl attens out to pass through the village. The rest of the walk concentrates on a search of the Tajo de Malinfi erno and following the course of the Sabar river to Alfarnate.

Highlights of this Stage Few Tajos or Gorges have such a mountainous image as Gomer, the star of the day, three of whose four flanks you can admire perfectly from the road. And don´t miss Doña Ana, the Sierra de Sabar preceding it or the Tajo del Fraile which closes the set of Tajos from the north. The Sabar and Borbollón rivers are noteworthy, intersecting at the spot where they both carry enough water. You will even pass through the source of the second river in the area of the farmhouse itself, a supposed Omar Ibn Hafsum birth place, and, in any case, a historical setting. The Valle del Arroyo de la Cueva leads to an excellent oak forest with Holm oaks accompanied at the mountain pass by numerous examples of cornicabra, the Terebinth Tree.

148 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga ALFARNATEJO (PULGARÍN ALTO) • ALFARNATE: The Route of the Gorges and Flatlands 10

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 1 2 2 3 3.0 13.5 1.6 NO

Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17

The ﬂ at valley from Alfarnate and Alfarnatejo is a cultivated plain between the mountain ranges of the Jobo and San Jorge to the north, and the Tajos and the Sierra de Enmedio in the south. It is at an altitude of 850 meters on average and is home to the villages of Alfarnate (with its famous Venta restaurant) and Alfarnatejo. The altitude, climate and isolation that are provided by the amphitheatre of mountains conjure up a serrano ambiance that makes you forget that you are a few kilometres away from the Costa del Sol.

• Starting point: Alto Pulgarin road However, the most sensible thing to do MA-157. in case of any problems would be not • Access to starting point: The road that following the GR any further and taking connects with the A-6100 to Alfarnatejo. the main track south-west and then south • Finish point: La Plaza Puente de which takes you to Río Gordo, relatively Alfarnate. close from the farmhouse. • Access to finish point: From Málaga on • Maps: The stretch is covered completely the A-6118 direction Periana and taking by 1039-II (Periana). the MA-155. From Granada, exit 187 of • District boundries: In the Puerto li- the A-92 direction Zafarraya and take mits of Periana and Alfarnatejo meet the MA-4102, which leads to the village (you walk in the latter boundaries till by the Puerto de Alazores. km 5) and with those of Riogordo, and • Possible “escape routes”: The road the path follows its boundaries during up to the Puerto de Sabar and the village the next 6, 5 kilometres up to the pass of Alfarnatejo. with views to Alfarnatejo, except a few • No return point: As you reach the Cortijo meter tip that belongs to Colmenar. de Auta it is quite difficult to make a Alfarnatejo boundaries are entered is decision at this point however it would again from kilometre 12 up to almost 16, be recommended to continue forward at Malinfierno viewpoint. The rest, as once you´ve started climbing the hill. you might guess, belongs to Alfarnate.

Alquería de Pulgarin seen from the ﬁ rst steps of the stage, with the Tajo Bermejo behind

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 1491149 10 ALFARNATEJO (PULGARÍN ALTO) • ALFARNATE: The Route of the Gorges and Flatlands

of Málaga, but in the opposite direction, from Pulgarin Alto up to the farmhouse Cortijo de Auta. The farmhouse had been mentioned as the “escape route”, since it passes close to the village of Riogordo. That sector is advertised by the village of Riogordo as route of the cliffs to the Puerto de Sabar (Ruta de Tajos) and the GR-249 is suggested to follow that route. It also proposes another walk Ruta de la White clouds crown the peaks of Sierra Tejeda, with Alcaucín in its lap and Periana in the foreground Sierra from the Cortijo de Auta. They are not marked as legalised public paths but there are nice information panels showing • Enjoy the walk safely their locations. There are no excessive risks at this Stage, The Vereda de la Costa path follows the except the 3 kilometres of road that must be course of the Sabar River to Pulgarin Alto walked, both at the beginning and between the and follows a dirt track by centuries-old olive river and the Puerto de Sabar, and a section out groves. Final part of this Sage coincides in of Alfarnatejo. There, as always, you have to part with a circular path of Alfarnate, the take extra precautions. There is mud and some PR 268-A Bosque de Las Morillas-Alfarnate. sections of the trail are covered in loose stones and surface is in poor condition. There will be It is 5.3 kilometres long and climbs to the no wading across major streams. Morrón del Águila connecting with the Great Path of Málaga in the ascent to the • Connections to other footpaths and trails Puerto and Mirador de Malinﬁ erno. There The GR-7 E4 in its Southern Branch or is a somewhat longer variant that leads to Granada Branch coincides with the Great Path the Venta de Alfarnate.

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

he Sabar River is present at the beginning nature of a turbulent torrent makes its and at the end of the route. The road riverbed open and very stony, as in the Tfrom Alfarnatejo climbing from Pulgarin strikingly named Charco del Aceite (the Alto leads along the river when it cuts into puddle of oil). However there are calmer the Sierra de Enmedio. You will crosses two parts in the flat areas surrounded with bridges, one at the lowest point of the walk cattails and rushes and pools overtaken and one near Alfarnatejo. Then you will pass by water plants. Some willows, poplar and by the riverbed as it contours around the ash, make up the rest of the vegetation. village of Alfarnate. The river is somewhat The locals called the Sabar river Arroyo del contaminated upstream by urban residues Palancar or Alfarnate. In terms of quality of and leaking from the landslide of Malinfierno. water the Borbollón river is quite different, The river seems to recover downstream. Its since you are close to the source in the

150 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga ALFARNATEJO (PULGARÍN ALTO) • ALFARNATE: The Route of the Gorges and Flatlands 10 rocky amphitheatre formed the Tajo Gomer which had long disappeared. The current and the Sierrecilla del Rey. The stream waterfall is more modest and you can hear it Arroyo de la Cueva comes down from the as you cross the river on a small make-shift mountain pass but the source itself is a bridge (although there is also a ford on the lagoon, extensively colonized by catkins, side). These calcareous waters give life to which you pass on your right. The Borbollón a dense and well conserved wood with tall supplies water to Riogordo and yet it is a Elms and Poplars, Ash and some Willows. river with a significant and permanent flow. As always, the brambles occupy their usual The proof of this is the fact that there is place in the sun in more open areas. Finally, fish, mostly barbel, in the pools near the given its proximity to the walk, let´s mention Cortijo de Auta. the spring called Fuente de Conejo, near The farmstead houses are built on a Alfarnatejo, sign-posted by the local training travertine terrace of an ancient waterfall workshop-school.

WALK DESCRIPTION

Up to el Puerto del Sabar The walk starts climbing along a stretch of One of the majestic olive trees near Río Sabar road veering left onto the mentioned Vereda de la Costa, under the Tajo de Doña Ana with its recent landslide. The Sabar River runs parallel to the trail and separates it from the Sierra de Sabar, a limestone promontory its true size dwarfed by the grand environment. Note several large olive trees with thick trunks, visibly repeatedly pruned. When you arrive at A-7204 between Riogordo and Periana, bear right, and cross the bridge over the river Sabar. Walk up to the Puerto de Sabar where you leave the road. Find a track which is partly concrete and partly dirt. Towards Cortijo de Auta The concrete track gives access to a reservoir of water atop a small hill and continues until km 5.5 where a deserted track leads westwards, overtaken by ruderal plants and some broom, between crops of dry land, olive groves and almond trees. When you pass by the source of Arroyo de las Morenas there is a striking-looking fallen oak tree on an isolated sandstone rock.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 151 10 ALFARNATEJO (PULGARÍN ALTO) • ALFARNATE: The Route of the Gorges and Flatlands

the walker, the walk turns northward and begins the ascent. Once one gets to the source of the river Borbollón, at the foot of a hill marked as archaeological site, made up of siliceous rocks of plutonic origin and with nice green colour. El camino de la sierra The contrast with the previous sector is evident when one enters the forest of Holm oaks and Portuguese oaks that occupies the entire southern slope of the limestone cliff between the Sierrecilla Contrast between sharp contours of the Tajo de Gomer and Tajo del Rey and the Tajos. The ruins of the del Fraile and ﬁ elds that surround the path farmhouses of Farrinas and El Cuartillo are on your right. The acebuche, wild olive tree, Here and there arboreal witnesses of the past thrives everywhere. When you climb the splendour of the oaks in the area appear. You mountain pass, near electricity towers, the have a wide panoramic view towards the walk turns eastwards and the landscape southwest; however Riogordo is not visible, softens. There is a flat area with reddish stuck as it is in a depression. To the north, soil, known as polje resulting from the ever closer, you can see the profile of the erosion of the limestone, suitable for cul- Gomer´s more accessible side. tivation. Pass on your right the limestone The descent towards Auta and the river cliffs, with the increasingly obvious Tajo Borbollón, after wading the Auta stream, del Fraile. In the north Holm oak wood is harbours only typical riparian vegetation, mixed with large Terebinth, spectacular in a wide green belt between fields of cereal autumn when they turn red. crops, and the plants growing on rock piles scattered throughout the hilly ground. A sign The craggy Tajo de Gomer accompanies the walker during a explains the unconfirmed hypothesis of this large section of the route; note the oaks at its base being the birthplace of Omar Ibn Hafsum, the leader of the revolt against the Umayyads and the Caliphate of Cordoba, who placed his royal leaders in the fortress of Bobastro (described and seen later). In fact, written records indicate that he was born “in the hamlet of Torrichela, near the Castillo de Autha”, and the similarity of the name makes it worth taking into account. As it happens so many times, his origins are disputed today by several towns. In the hamlet, in complete decline and with a huge threshing circle that welcomes

152 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga ALFARNATEJO (PULGARÍN ALTO) • ALFARNATE: The Route of the Gorges and Flatlands 10

Between Alfarnatejo y Alfarnate The two pueblos occupy areas of the plains not as suitable for cultivation, on the banks of the river Sabar and between the crags. El Morrón de Malinfi erno (the northwest rocky spur of the Sierra de Enmedio) stretches from Alfarnate to Alfarnatejo blocking the view between the villages. These foothills are also occupied by a Holm oak forest, in this case younger, especially along the initial climb. The Tajo de Malinfi erno is much more tree-less and covered with laston grass, gorse and white cistus carpeting the rocky outcrop with a dispersed Hawthorn here and there. The Sabar River (or Arroyo del Palancar) meanders around the mountains and leaves the ruins of an old olive mill on your right Herd of goats, Málaga breeds: payoyas and velenas, close to Alfarnate where, as it seems, the remains of squeezed olives used to be thrown into the so-called foot of the river again. The trail runs parallel Charca de Aceite, “oil puddle”. The proximity to the river, passes through a rest area and of the old quarry converted into a landfi ll casts turns off to the right suddenly in order to avoid a shadow over the landscape. On the other the road, leading through an area of ancient side of the Cerro de la Venta, atop which the mill used to sit, is the famous Venta of terraces, with paved fl ooring and dry stone Alfarnate restaurant. The hillock has dense walls bordering it. Alfarnate is accessed via vegetation on its northern slope, which is Calle Pozo Rincón and continuing along the visible as the walk takes the hiker to the river which fl ows under the Plaza del Puente.

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

30S 0389236 30S 0388578 1 Pulgarín Alto 710 m 2 Puente sobre el Río Sabar, 550 m 4090531 bridge 4090148 30S 0387619 30S 0386279 3 Puerto de Sabar, 615 m 4 Mirador de los Tajos y 720 m mountain pass 4088935 Periana, viewpoint 4090054 5 Cortijo de Auta 30S 0384940 30S 0384829 y Río Borbollón, 600 m 6 Mirador del Tajo Gomer, 720 m farmhouse 4089923 viewpoint 4091333 30S 0386663 30S 0386829 7 Fuente del Conejo, 810 m 8 Alfarnatejo 845 m natural spring 4093036 4093497 9 Mirador de 30S 0386614 30S 0388066 Malinﬁ erno y 895 m 10 Plaza del Puente en 885 m Alfarnatejo, viewpoint 4094431 Alfarnate, village square 4095155

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 153 11 ALFARNATE • VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO: Crossing the Sierra del Jobo

ALFARNATE • VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO 11 Crossing the Sierra del Jobo ESTIMATED TIME 5 hours 15 minutes Altitude (m) Erilla de Llano de Juan Moreno la Cueva Puerto del Mirador de Quejigal Hondonero 1300 Hoyo 1200 Virote Fuente de la Zarza Carretera Tajo Madera 1100 A-4152 1000 Alfarnate Villanueva 900 del Rosario 800 700 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Distance (km) LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 15.4 Accumulated ascent 590 Final altitude 695 Ascent km 4.9 Accumulated descent 770 Maximum altitude 1.387 Descent km 7.5 Maximum difference 695 Minimum altitude 695 Flat km 3.0 Altitude at starting point 865 Average altitude 1.095

Summary of this Stage The course describes a Z on the Sierra of Jobo, representing the maximum altitude of the Limestone Central Arch at Chamizo with 1,641 metres above sea level. First section climbs between this mountain range and the San Jorge in a northwesterly direction to a nearby campground. There it turns south-west to ascend to the mountain pass and lead down through Hondonero until you reach the junction to Tajo de la Madera. At this point you change direction for the third time to the north-west again towards Villanueva de el Rosario. The Great Path of Málaga reaches here its maximum altitude in the Puerto del Quejigo (or the Llano de la Cueva) at 1,385 meters. The average altitude of the walk here is almost 1,100 meters, which gives you an idea of the mountain character of Stage 11. The other three mountains that mark the way are the San Jorge at the beginning, Sierra Gorda to the west of the highest point and Camarolos at the end. All of them are limestone mountains with steep slopes, cliffs and karst relief, difﬁ cult to walk as it is not done on paths.

Highlights of this Stage Landscapes, both around Alfarnate at the beginning and towards Hondonero and the Comarca of Antequera at the end, are worth stopping for. In fact, there is an interpretive panel in Hondonero that you can take some time analyzing. The karst topography creates cliffs like Tello, Hondonero or the Tajo de Madera, large, high quality rock to practice climbing, as many climbing schools do.

154 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga ALFARNATE • VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO: Crossing the Sierra del Jobo 11

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 3 2 2 3 4.4 6.6 4.4 NO

Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17

There is also a via ferrata, not too high level of difﬁ culty, in the Cerro de Cazorla mountain. The forests of Holm oaks and Portuguese oaks, thickets of Hawthorn and Cistus, laston grass ﬁ elds and hedgehog broom in the high mountains, stands of maples of the Dehesa de Hondonero; all are a powerful attraction for botanists. And where there is such a variety of plants there is also an abundance of animals, especially birds, reptiles and amphibians being the most conspicuous, not to mention the Spanish Ibex or the elusive Roe Deer. There are a number of karstic lakes, undoubtedly interesting from an environmental point of view. Given the terrain, the human heritage elements here are quite dispersed, and isn´t easy to spot. Thus please note the wells and fountains, threshing circles and the huts and cave shelters such as the Cueva in the Puerto del Quejigo.

• Starting point: Plaza del Puente de Alfarnate. is car access and use the forest track to • Access to starting point: From the A7, access Villanueva de el Rosario. from Vélez Málaga direction Periana and • No return point: La Fuente de Toma y on the MA-155 to arrive to Alfarnate. There Bebe or the Llano de la Cueva. is another access from Colmenar and the • Maps: Almost the entire Stage is on 1039-II A-6100. From the Puerto de Alazores, coming (Periana), except for the section with the from Loja, the connection to the MA-155 abandoned campsite, which is found on is on the A-341. the 1024-IV (Villanueva del Trabuco) and • Finish point: Villanueva del Rosario, at the end of the stage, which is already on the intersection of Calle Arroyo with the the 1039-I (Villanueva del Rosario). Camino de las Lomas. • District boundries: Up to kilometre 4.2, • Access to ﬁ nish point: From Málaga, the after the ﬁ rst ascent, you are in Alfarnate, A-92 M, exit 20 toward the A-7203. From right up to the entrance to the country Granada, the A-92 exit 177 to the MA-92 house Puerto del Quejigal. The boundary direction Málaga and exit 16 to the MA-231 between this village and Villanueva del towards Villanueva de el Rosario. Trabuco is on the ridge, so that the area • Possible “escape routes”: The best chan- of Hoyo Virote and Cañada de Quejigos ce for escape before climbing the highest is in the latter district. The fences which mountain pass is retracing your steps the meet in the Erilla of Juan Moreno mark abandoned campsite (vehicle access) then the three district boundaries, past the gate down to Villanueva del Trabuco, which is (7 km) you enter Villanueva de el Rosario very close. From the pass downwards, go and walk in its boundaries until the end to the Mirador de Hondonero, where there of this stage.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 1551155 11 ALFARNATE • VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO: Crossing the Sierra del Jobo

changes name to Realenga de Alfarnate. The second part of the stage coincides with the Vereda del Camino de Alfarnate but only up to the forest of maples as it climbs to the highest mountain pass. Then, from the entrance to the Tajo de Madera there is another Vereda, del Camino de Riogordo, which you walk downwards, though the Vereda then continues to the top of the Sierra de Camarolos and veers to the destination town.

The Sierra of Jobo and the Pico Chamizo seen from Alfarnate plain In the area of Hondonero, Villanueva de el Rosario authorities have prepared a circular 10 km route that follows the same • Enjoy the walk safely path as the GR, passing by the Chapel and It must not be underestimated what altitude the Tajo de Madera, and it is called Ruta del can mean at this stage. To the average elevation Nacimiento. At the church there is a sign you must add the maximum height and mountain pointing to the Nacimiento del Chorro which pass character; weather conditions can be very isn´t too far way. The last route can be done typical of mountains. The path sometimes has a stony surface and you may be walking directly even by car and leads to the viewpoint of on limestone pavement. You must wear the the Alto de Hondonero, with a large number right footwear for such conditions. of interpretive panels due to the complexity It must bring appropriate footwear. There of environment and heritage of the area. are no watering points until Hondonero, and even so it is not treated for human consumption. Panoramic views from Mirador de Hondonero • Connections to other footpaths and trails In Alfarnate there are three PR walks (Pequeño Recorrido or short-distance), the well-known PR A-268 Bosque de las Morillas, PR A-267 Pico de Vilo and that one which is most closely related to this stage, the A-266 PR de Las Pilas which starts at the Morales stream. Access to climbing sectors of Darrin and Toriles are marked at the entrance to the abandoned campsite. As far as right-of-way trails, the climb at the start of this stage is actually a part of Vereda de Archidona, which turns towards Villanueva del Trabuco and

156 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga ALFARNATE • VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO: Crossing the Sierra del Jobo 11

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

t the beginning you will cross Arroyo de Canaleja, Raigon and Urán. In general these los Morales, in the middle of the vega constitute small contributions sprouting from Ade Alfarnate, a watercourse choked by the clay strata that have been channelled for the surrounding crops, where you also can the livestock. fi nd a nice specimen of poplar, some elm and Completely different in origin are the large quinces on the soil-covered slopes. Then the outflows of water coming from carbonate limestone composition of the terrain will force aquifers of these enormous mountains. They the water to circulate underground, except drain into two powerful sources at foot of the for pits and plains where seasonal puddles mountains, Nacimiento or Chorro sign-posted can occur. This process can be seen here and opposite the chapel of Our Lady of the Rosary there in the rainy season but is especially and the recently declared (in 2011) Natural signifi cant in the lagoons of Hondonero or Monument, La Fuente de los Cien Caños in Cerro Urán, visible at the foot of the path and Villanueva del Trabuco, traditional source of with their respective signs and information the Guadalhorce River despite the fact that the panels. Similar phenomenon occurs at the latter comes from the Puerto de los Alazores. Laguna de la Sierra de San Jorge. El Chorro, channelled by a dam right at the In Hondonero, a string of small water source, creates the Arroyo de los Cerezos which springs can be found and they are sign- joins Arroyo de Canaleja, a steady companion posted. These springs are very important of the GR at Villanueva del Trabuco. This latter for the numerous amphibians which exist stream was involved in some serious fl oods in the area, including the Iberian Ribbed in the village in September 2012, causing Newt, Pygmy Newt and the Parsley Frog; substantial material damages. unique species with restricted habitat. The water springs are called Hondonero, Zarza, Plains of Alfarnate and Alfarnatejo soften the landscape that is viewed from the fi rst stretches of the sierra

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 157 11 ALFARNATE • VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO: Crossing the Sierra del Jobo

WALK DESCRIPTION

Up to the Puerto del Quejigal The fi rst steps of Stage 11 are fl at, across the working fi elds of Alfarnate leading towards the sierra. There is a steep slope where traffi c is banned, but it used to be a well-known path of Escariguela, which today is almost lost. These sunny mountain slopes are being gradually planted with oak, but they are dominated by gorse with some Terebinth. The landscape is made interesting by the whimsical karstic modelling in the Puerto de Quejigal, even with temporary pools. The track improves greatly as it leads downhill in search of Villanueva del Trabuco, which you Hermitage of the Virgen del Rosario, reaching the point of can catch a glimpse of among planted Aleppo destination of the stage in Villanueva del Rosario pine woods ahead, after passing the entrance to a country house on your left. La Sierra Pits and fl atlands of the Quejigal If you turn around you can see a spectacular view of the mountains of the Central The walk turns sharply at the Parque de Limestone Arch blocked to the north by the Arborismo and Aula de Naturaleza buildings, rocky mass of the Sierra de Loja. whose buildings, almost fi nished, occupy one The glen which The Great Path of Málaga of the best areas of pasture and cultivation. climbs is placed between la Sierra de Jobo There are a couple of adventure circuits of (with its peak, Morrón, sometimes just different levels of diffi culty built among the called “peak” by locals), del Chamizo to trees. the east and the Sierra Gorda to the west. The journey continues and arrives at a The dimensions of this second limestone hollow called Hoyo Virote, surrounded by mountain are hard to fathom from this good specimens of Aleppo pine, very dense position, unlike from Villanueva del Trabuco oak and great examples of Terebinth, beside where it raises behind the village. The walk the Portuguese oaks (Quejigo) that lend their reaches the highest point of all the GR in name to the entire area. Locally, glens are an area with several sinkholes, where also called “vagas”, such as the one here which the Fuente de Toma y Bebe located. Above, leads the walker down into a labyrinth of thick on the left, there is a shelter that is widely forest of erect trunks of Portuguese oaks. A used, with protective masonry walls. new fl at area appears, where you starts feeling the altitude and you reach a fence (previously La Dehesa de Hondonero mentioned in district boundaries) that leads From the Puerto de Quejigo and the Llano the hiker to the left Juan Moreno threshing de la Cueva (km 8.3 and 1,385 m altitude) circle (km 6.9 ), a proof of the agricultural there starts a descent where there are views activity associated with these remote areas. towards Dehesa de Hondonero. The objective

1151588 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga ALFARNATE • VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO: Crossing the Sierra del Jobo 11 is to use the trail to reach the Mirador de Hondonero, passing by impressive tamarisk bushes interspersed with some impressive maple specimens. At the Mirador (km 9.5) take the wide track with vehicle access from the village The Sierra de San Jorge and the Tajo Tello which is the destination of this stage. The environment of this viewpoint is privileged north where there is a detour towards the Tajo because of the amphitheatre of rugged de Madera, an imposing ginger-coloured rocky mountain ranges that surround it, but also cliff located about 500 metres to the west. the extent of the views to the north, towards What´s left to do now during the Stage the extensive plains of the two Villanuevas. 11 is to walk discovering successive water The itinerary which starts at the Mirador springs among farms, holiday homes and follows various information panels that have orchards, while olive trees are taking over been placed (described in reverse to the the landscape again. Arrive at the chapel of Great Málaga Path direction). The panels let our Lady of the Rosary (km 14.1). From the the hiker discover the very diverse aspects broad plain that there in front of this bright of the Dehesa de Hondonero, such as the building there is an access to El Chorro, a geology and facts related to karst lakes and short and recommended detour. The walk water sources. then passes between the incipient valleys The area is frequented by walkers and of the Arroyo de Cerezo, which originates in tourists as the place evidently attracts people. the aforementioned source, and along the Mountain walkers and climbers in search of Canaleja stream, which gets closer and closer the via ferrata come through as well, so do to the path until you come to a little bridge cyclists. The walk is still mostly heading that gives access to Villanueva del Rosario, west, but to get to the village it turns slightly where Stage 11 ends.

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

1 Alfarnate, Plaza del 30S 0388066 2 Ermita Nª Sª del Rosario 30S 0379556 885 m and access to spring source 825 m Puente, village square 4095155 4094578 4 Cross-roads Alfarnate- 30S 0386908 3 Puerto del Quejigal, 30S 0386374 880 m 1.120 m Puerto de los Alazores 4096066 mountain pass 4096770 30S 0385134 6 Hoyo Virote pit 1.071 m 5 Erilla de Juan 30S 0384507 1.198 m 4096579 Moreno, gate 4095682 30S 0383735 8 Fuente de Toma y Bebe 1.370 m 7 Puerto del Quejigo y Llano 30S 0383556 4095077 1.385 m 30S 0383193 de la Cueva, pass and plain 4094982 10 Aceral de Hondonero, 1.300 m maple trees 4094790 9 Mirador de 30S 0382839 1.222 m 12 Access to via ferrata del 30S 0381747 Hondonero, viewpoint 1.064 m 4094443 Cerro Cazorla 4094015 11 Access to Tajo de 30S 0381219 13 C/ Arroyo Fuente Vieja 30S 0378819 995 m Villanueva del Rosario, 695 m la Madera 4093696 street 4095366

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 159 12 VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO • ARCHIDONA: The Río Guadalhorce river and the Hoz de Marín

VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO • ARCHIDONA 12 The Río Guadalhorce river and the Hoz de Marín ESTIMATED TIME 5 hours 20 minutes Altitude (m) Sumidero Cerro de la Cruz Ruina de Calasana 815 790 Cortijo de Comienzo La Saucedilla 765 del monte 740 Archidona 715 Villanueva del Rosario Venta Alta 690 Río Guadalhorce 665 A-7230 La Hoz de Marín 640 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 Distance (km) LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 18.5 Accumulated ascent 365 Final altitude 710 Ascent km 7.8 Accumulated descent 360 Maximum altitude 830 Descent km 6.5 Maximum difference 200 Minimum altitude 630 Flat km 4.2 Altitude at starting point 695 Average altitude 712

Summary of this Stage This is possibly the best path, from an environmental point of view, connecting two towns. Always aiming northwards, the walk takes gentle detours to avoid geographical features, such as the Hoz de Marin and some infrastructures, the most important being the A-92M motorway. Archidona and Villanueva del Rosario are at the same altitude, in this Stage the ascents are almost equal to the descents, and the highest points are the Cerro de la Cruz (810 metres) and the hill where the fi re break runs between Saucedilla farmhouse and the Hoz de Marín, which is at 830 metres. The lowest points are the Guadalhorce river and the Arroyo de la Hoz de Marín (or del Ciervo), both at the identical height of 635 metres. Therefore the mountain ridge profi le refl ects the path well, being very varied in terms of landscapes, and between the agriculture, pure woodlands, domestic livestock and game hunting of the oak dehesas.

Highlights of this Stage A main point of interest at the beginning of this Stage is that you will see the Guadalhorce river while it is just a small stream close to the path. The areas of dehesas during the ﬁ rst third of this section are very interesting, situated as they are in a limestone area along with clays, which gives an opportunity to see a karst sumps and temporary ponds. The Holm oak forests also take the form of islands, with isolated specimens as witnesses of past splendours.

160 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO • ARCHIDONA: The Río Guadalhorce river and the Hoz de Marín 12

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 2 2 2 3 2.2 13.0 3.3 NO

Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17

The views from the pine covered hills are very enlightening, with a complete panoramic view toward the south of the Central Limestone Arch, in the area where the previous Stage crossed it. On the other side is the Aleppo pine forest of the Hoz de Marin. This site leads the walker to an island of vegetation and nature, into an enclosed valley, carved through the layers of gypsum and clay, with little effort, by the river ﬂ ow.

• Starting point: Villanueva del Rosario, on • Possible “escape routes”: Once you have the bridge over the Arroyo de la Canaleja, passed beneath the motorway for the second Calle Arroyo (Fuente Vieja). time, at kilometre 7.5, the option to leave • Access to starting point: From Málaga, the GR is at the Cortijo de La Saucedilla; take the A-45, exit 114 to join with the take the track to the east. This will lead you A-92M, exiting at 20 onto the A-7203 and to the main road that connects Villanueva fi nally taking the MA-231. del Trabuco with Archidona, the latter being the closer village, to your left. • Finish point: Archidona, where Calle Luis Braille meets the Avenida Andalucía. • No return point: There is a very important point, the highest of this Stage, where • Access to fi nish point: Motorway A-92 the viewpoint of the Central Limestone Sevilla-Granada and the A-359 (Pedrizas- Arch has been situated. After this, a fairly Salinas) and fi nally the N-331. steep descent towards the Hoz de Marín begins. Alternatively backtrack from the lookout point or continue from the Arroyo towards Archidona. • Maps: Almost all of Stage 12 can be found on 1024-III (Huertas del Río), except for a few metres at the beginning on 1039-I (Villanueva del Rosario) and to fi nish 1024-I (Archidona). • District boundries: Almost half of this Stage is within Villanueva del Rosario boundaries and the other half in Archidona. As it could not be any other way, the district borders meet at the Cerro de la Cruz, at the point known as Sumidero, where you will have covered 9.5 kilometres.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 1611161 12 VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO • ARCHIDONA: The Río Guadalhorce river and the Hoz de Marín

natural riverbed and to fl ood the footpath in places where it runs close alongside the stream. • Connections to other footpaths and trails The fi rst part of the way takes you along the Camino to Archidona; it does not enter the gorge for obvious reasons instead it The Central Limestone Arch seen from the GR-249 veers off to the east. In the Hoz de Marín, due to the uniqueness of the area, it coincides with the PR-A-157 • Enjoy the walk safely “Hoz del Arroyo Marín”. This is a linear walk The greater part of the way is along comfor- and you have to turn back when you reach the table forest tracks or well maintained footpaths. point that the streams fl ooded and destroyed in 2012. The number of fallen tree trunks and In the short section which takes you along sections of disrupted pathway only allow you the A-7230 main road it is obligatory to take to walk for one kilometre downstream from the necessary precautions. where the GR connects with the riverbed. The steepest descent is towards the Hoz For this reason, the whole PR is used and de Marín, through a terraced replanted pine walked in its entirety. forest. Due to the steepness and sandy terrain, There is another PR, the A-125, “Archidona you should descend carefully. north-east and Hoz de Marín” which is cu- In the Hoz de Marín, you will ford a stream rrently not in use. bed, which can have high water levels, some- There is a possibility to do a circular walk times suffi cient to exceed the capacity of its from Archidona, but walking around the area. THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

he Guadalhorce is the principal river of receiving its waters from the Central Limestone Málaga, due to its 166 kilometres and Arch, the Vega de Antequera plains and the Tthe fact that it does not leave Málaga’s Sierra de las Nieves mountain range. Of course, boundaries (Málaga’s other great river, which the importance of this river attests to its other the GR also visits, is the Guadiaro). In fact, the names, although no longer used; Río Málaga Guadalhorce river cuts the province in half, river and Guadalquivirejo.

Central Limestone Arch and the Hoz de Marín

162 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO • ARCHIDONA: The Río Guadalhorce river and the Hoz de Marín 12

During the Great Málaga Path walk you re-visit the river in the middle section at the Desfi ladero de los Gaitanes when one of its tributaries, the Río Turón river, flows up to its source. Towards the end, it joins with the Desembocadura del Guadalhorce estuary, another Espacio Natural Protegido, (Protected Natural Area). In this Stage you can admire for The arable lands still sustain some Holm oaks while a little while a few black poplars and ash trees, on the Loma del Pinar hill pine trees emerge along a sparse water fl ow during the summer. It is popularly said that the river begins at Villanueva del Trabuco, at the Fuente de los Cien west, towards the Peñón de los Enamorados, Caños (Spring of One Hundred Spouts), which (Lover’s Rock) while Archidona town overlooks makes sense as it is a spectacular place. But its eastern end. following its course upstream to the slopes of In fact there are satellite images of before the Sierra de San Jorge you can reach a spot, and after of the powerful storms in 2012. You no less emblematic, the Puerto de Los Alazores, can see the consequences of the abnormal water among unique rocky escarpments. fl ow in the uprooted and dragged tree trunks, In the Dehesas of the central area of the erosion on the most open banks and damage walk, there are some small lagoons and slow to the infrastructure. waters, which are enlarged and topped-up with Despite this, the area you will pass through water for domestic livestock and wild game. The has well maintained walks, beautiful riparian GPS referenced deep pond found at one of the vegetation, not so much for the size of the high places along the footpath, is a point where trees but because of the diversity and density. water fi lters out from the underground aquifer. To begin with the narrowness of the gorge is The Hoz del Arroyo de Marín is an emble- more evident (it is actually very narrow at the matic area, despite its size being little more base) and the fl ood terraces are reduced to a than 600 hectares, it has been declared by the minimum; but they are wider above, here allowing Diputación of Málaga an Espacio Sobresaliente the installation of mills and orchards. con Protección Compatible. The aerial view of Hoz de Marín used to house a mill on the the Hoz (Sickle shaped valley) demonstrates Arroyo del Ciervo, Deer’s Stream, oldest and the origin of its name as it is a pronounced, probably most curious name in the area. semicircular scar, with an average depth of Here the ash-trees abound, especially at 250 meters, levelling out at the northern end. fi rst, along with many elm trees. The gall-oaks The valley ends at the Huertas del Río; (River or Portuguese oaks, which are fairly scattered, Orchards) where its course takes a turn to the reach the edge of the river. At the end of the walk, when the valley opens up, the poplar trees prevail. The milky coloured water is typical of this stream, it is due to the unstable nature of the bank’s terrain (gypsum, clay and other Triassic rocks), because of this the stream does not contain fish but it does have other animals associated with water, especially amphibians, and forest ecosystems.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 1631163 12 VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO • ARCHIDONA: The Río Guadalhorce river and the Hoz de Marín

WALK DESCRIPTION

The Guadalhorce River basin The walk begins by leaving Villanueva del Rosario on the Camino de las Huertas, alongside the Arroyo del Cerezo or los Cerezos, which joins the Guadalhorce river at the stretch of road that you will be walking along. You will make a sharp turn, leaving the asphalt and circling the Cerro Cuca and then, after passing under the A-92M motorway, make another turn at the Venta Alta so that you are walking northwards following the motorway through the areas known as the Dehesa del Raso and El Ventorro. The Saucedilla farmhouse and Central Limestone Arch A new underpass beneath the motorway takes the walker to an area full of trees which The landscape opens up to some extent, but contrasts boldly with the previous landscape. you will continue to see isolated copses of 100 The Holm oak Dehesas year old Holm oak trees, with lone examples, After walking 7.5 kilometres of this Stage, too. Towards the south you will notice the you will reach hills with the unusual name of proﬁ le of the distant Central Limestone Arch, while to the north the horizon is closed in by Siegaliebres (Blind Hares), covered in Holm oak the Loma del Yesar and Loma del Pinar hills. trees. The low scrub consists of gorse, thyme, The latter is recognized by the line of pines that Montpelier cistus and Genista umbellata with cuts short its elongated summit, a prelude to Retama Broom and Kermes Oak being the slightly the forest behind. taller plants. The walk is lined with fences and numerous gates; continuing uphill you will reach The walk leads to some ruins (km 11.5) in the highest point so far, Cerro de la Cruz, where the area of Calasana and begins to ascend you will soon turn 90º towards the northeast and descend through olive groves, almond in the area of Cortijo de La Serena (o Gómez) trees and non-irrigated crops until you reach the Cortijo de La Saucedilla farmhouse, by farmhouse, and the deep pond, which remains which time you will have completed almost to your right. 14 km of the walk.

Gypsum and marl of different colours La Hoz del Río Marín The stream which ﬂ ows to the north is La Saucedilla, a tributary to the Marín, but the path, after turning at a right angle towards the north, leaves it to your left, while you climb a steep slope over gypsum terrain. The walker beneﬁ ts from the height gain as one can look over the previous hilly stage to the south, and

164 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga VILLANUEVA DEL ROSARIO • ARCHIDONA: The Río Guadalhorce river and the Hoz de Marín 12

the densely wooded valley to the north, which outcrop of gypsum and marls, which it conti- contrasts with the recent landscapes. nues to erode. The PR A-157 continues with After circling the hill and walking a short a slight descent, but our path changes its distance along the border between the pines and direction and feels as if it traces a line parallel thyme bushes, bear left in order to descend the to the river going upstream. To the left, steep, 200m to the river, into an area known as Pilatos. almost treeless slopes are sparsely covered by There is very little undergrowth below the pine thymes and retama broom. The valley begins trees due to their density, but they have fostered to open up, the path becomes a track and you the growth of quite a few young Holm oaks. To start to climb, leaving the Hoz behind. Just a continue northwards you will need to follow few metres from Archidona, you can see the a pronounced curve at the base of the valley. shoots of some Caper plants and wild Violet You will cross the river at kilometre 15.8, cabbage (Moricandia sp), indicators that the just where the river zigzags around a high land here is rich in clay and gypsum.

Pine woods hold the slopes of gypsum and clay in Hoz de Marín Arroyo Marín, riparian woods

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

1 C/Arroyo Fuente Vieja. 30S 0378819 695 m 2 Venta Alta /Río Guadalhorce, 30S 0376348 635 m Vva. del Rosario, street 4095366 ‘High Inn’ / Guadalhorce River 4097130 3 Pass beneath the A-92. 30S 0376560 735 m 4 Sumidero in el Cerro 30S 0375298 Begin the ascent 4100089 de la Cruz, sump 4101291 805 m 5 Cortijo de 30S 0378080 6 Mirador de la Hoz de 30S 0377721 La Saucedilla, 745 m Marín 4103405 775 m farmhouse 4103381 7 Central Limestone 30S 0377704 8 Vadeo del Arroyo en la Hoz 30S 0377246 825 m 635 m Arch, viewpoint 4103679 de Marín, ford in the stream 4103865 9 Arroyo Marín stream, 30S 0377293 10 Mirador de Archidona de 30S 0376958 636m 700 m galleried riparian vegetation 4104729 la Hoz de Marín, viewpoint 4105834 11 C/ Luis Braille 30S 0376716 and Avda. 710 m Andalucía, streets 4106117

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 165 IV The Great Málaga Path in its passage through the sea of olive trees

The interaction between woodland and crops shown perfectly in this Dehesa with interspersed olive trees The Great Málaga Path in its passage through the sea of olive trees

ince the dawn of Andalucía there has The territory belonging to Antequera been an agricultural triumvirate that is the big protagonist of the area that you Sdominated the landscape, consisting of will cover. Not in vain, for the municipal vines, olive trees and wheat. Unevenly distri- district is the largest in the province of buted around the province, but always present, Málaga and the eleventh of Spain, with we can consider the Vega de Antequera 814 km2 and 13 districts. Villanueva de plains and the north-eastern region, as the la Concepción separated itself adminis- granary or the larder of Málaga. tratively from Antequera in 2009, thereby The factors that have shaped this area are: constituting Málaga’s 101st town. its situation on a high plateau between the The Gran Senda de Málaga, for its Ríos Genil and Guadalhorce, gentle contours part, devotes itself to connecting the and a good quality clay soil for these crops. neighbouring towns: Archidona, Villanueva Obviously, if it is a good place to grow these, de Tapia, Villanueva de Algaidas, Cuevas then it is also good for woodlands. Or to be Bajas, Alameda and Fuente de Piedra, more exact, it used to be. Along the Gran scribing a circle that is always one step Senda de Málaga there are occasions to away from entering the province of Cordoba. verify these assertions, strolling between Almost the whole territory is between the villages that are in the industrial areas 400 and 500 meters in altitude, when not of Archidona, Villanueva de Tapia, Alameda completely flat it has a curved landscape and Antequera. of gentle slopes.

166 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga The Great Málaga Path in its passage through the sea of olive trees IV

La Comarca Nororiental de Málaga The long journey through the Antequera (NORORMA), the north east region of Málaga region provides a real perspective to the naming is very well represented along the GR-249, of this group of Stages as “el mar de olivos”, except for Villanueva del Trabuco, that you “the sea of olive trees”, it also connects with will hardly touch during Stage 11. another subsection with defi ned characteristics From an environmental point of view it is of its own, the towns clustered around the a transitional area between olive groves and Sierras de la Camorra and the Humilladero Holm oak woodlands, with good, if perhaps mountain ranges. scarce examples of Dehesas and copses. The This area is one of the Andalucían bastions watercourses are not very important here, the in Olive Oil production, The “Denomination of Arroyo del Bebedero stream (later becoming Origin” geographical indication is designated the Río Burriana river) is a channel which drains to the Extra Virgin Olive Oil, amongst others, springs and surplus rainwater, delivering them in all of the districts covered here by the Gran to the Genil river. Senda de Málaga walk. “Hojiblanca” is the variety of olive tree with the highest production in the 80.000 hectares in cultivation, although varieties include amongst others; verdial, arbequina, gordal, picual. In total there are about 10 million olive trees belonging to 11,000 farmers. According to offi cial data the production which meets all the regulation requirements, is around 35,000 tonnes of oil. The Roman culture marks the highpoint of the diffusion of Olives in the Málaga province, with numerous villae scattered through the region, as the dozens of farmsteads are now that you will come to know during the following fi ve Stages. Without doubt, the industrialization of production will be obvious in certain parts, but in others the survival of ancient olive

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 167 IV The Great Málaga Path in its passage through the sea of olive trees

Often there are large rock piles within the olive groves, collected to clear the working area

trees grown in the strictly rain-fed traditional methods clear all other herbage which would manner and bears witness to the fact that accompany the trees, and the use of pesticides there have been consolidated providing oil limits greatly any animal diversity. and table olives, a mainstay in the Andalucían Fortunately there is an exception, that of farming culture. game species. Compared to the overall decline of Other cultivation accompanies the olive small-game animals for hunting in the province, trees; also of non-irrigated annual crops are in particular the lagomorphs (rabbits/hares) in cereals which occupy more hectares (wheat the areas of Sierra, it is practically impossible and barley) and also sunﬂ owers. In the Vega for the user of the Great Path of Málaga to of Antequera there are potatoes, onions and go through these stages without seeing a asparagus grown with irrigation, but the GR huge number of rabbits, hares and partridges, does not reach these. approximately in that order. Hunting is deeply If you think of olive groves as Dehesas, you rooted in this area; it holds numerous managed would be talking about immense woodlands, but hunting zones, obviously with good result as you need to take into account that the present these abundant resources show.

168 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga The Great Málaga Path in its passage through the sea of olive trees IV

Diverse varieties of olives are consumed once pickled and dressed; they are also the base for the manufacture of some of the best oils of the market

Rabbits continue to be troubled by myxoma- fast. Hunting hares with Spanish greyhounds tosis (transmitted by vectors such as mosquitoes is very popular in this fl at area. Partridges are and fleas) and viral haemorrhagic disease more diffi cult to see, they are present in large (hepatitis with less alarming symptoms and numbers and often reluctant to take fl ight in the transmitted through contact). It is not uncommon presence of potential enemies in a behaviour to see a change of behaviour in animals as they called “apeonar”: running as fast as the bird suffer from a decline in sensory faculties, hence can on foot. you may observe them in full daylight. Rabbits Other (hunting) game species which are are commonly seen in border areas: lagoon present in the olive groves are Thrush sp, edges, hedgerows, roads and railway lines, Collared Doves, Turtle Doves, Rock Doves and around isolated oaks, river and stream banks. Wood Pigeons. Hares, which differ from rabbits in that they The itinerary proposed to visit this inter- do not dig burrows but sleep on “beds” and esting area is: Archidona – Villanueva de their offspring are virtually self-suffi cient from Tapia – Villanueva de Algaidas – Cuevas Bajas birth, they are considerably bigger and very – Alameda – Fuente de Piedra.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 169 13 ARCHIDONA • VILLANUEVA DE TAPIA: Relict Dehesas

ARCHIDONA • VILLANUEVA DE TAPIA 13 Relict Dehesas ESTIMATED TIME 3 hours 50 minutes Altitude Fuente del (m) Arroyo de Paso Sacristán la Negra a nivel 750 Puerto Cjo. Camino del del Tomillar Entredicho 740 Mirador de Las Palomeras 720

700 Villanueva Archidona de Tapia 680

660

640 630 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 Distance (km) LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 17.1 Accumulated ascent 170 Final altitude 680 Ascent km Accumulated descent 205 Maximum 6.3 altitude 750 Descent km 6.7 Maximum difference 125 625 Flat km Altitude at starting 710 Minimum altitude 4.1 point Average altitude 710 Summary of this Stage Stage 13 is a fairly comfortable path between two villages which are at the same altitude and without deep valleys between them, so the ascents and descents are minimal and very gentle. Almost the entire stretch of land uses tracks of different grades, but generally well maintained, given the intense use by agricultural trafﬁ c. There is an unavoidable stretch of road and you pass beneath highway plus a railway line by means of a level crossing without barriers. The path is towards the Northeast, between some low altitude mountains to the left and hills occupied by Holm-oak woods and dehesas to the opposite side. You will visit one of these areas of dehesa, it is an example of the harmony between the original inhabitants of the territory and the resources needed for the development of human societies.

Highlights of this Stage The two traditional paths, united somewhat artiﬁ cially for the sake of the motorway and the train line are two examples of traditional infrastructure of impeccable path, part of the common heritage of the villages. The star of this Stage is without doubt the dehesas of Málaga’s north-eastern region, one of whose better spots are grouped around the above-mentioned communication channels.

170 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga ARCHIDONA • VILLANUEVA DE TAPIA: Relict Dehesas 13

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 2 2 2 3 3.0 13.1 1.0 NO

Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17

Following the Arroyo de la Negra upstream, acquaints the walker with one of the streams that forms the Hoz de Marin, this Stage complements the previous one. From an historical point of view, the Triﬁ nio is an emblematic place near to Villanueva de Tapia. In this location three provinces meet; Málaga, Granada and Cordoba, which gives an idea of the disputes unleashed in this area until the boundaries were set in the early nineteenth century. The Triﬁ nio cairn is where Arroyo de la Cerca joins with the Barranco del Valholgado to form the Arroyo del Cerezo (this name occurs at the beginning and end of this Stage), east of the town and very close to the trail.

• Starting point: Archidona, at the con- • Possible “escape routes”: The walk verging point of Calle Luis Braille with connects with two major roads, the A-92 Avenida Andalucía. Sevilla -Granada and the A-333. You could • Access to starting point: A-92 Motorway leave this Stage at either of these, but Sevilla-Granada and the A-359 (Pedrizas- preferably on the regional road. Salinas) and fi nally the N-331. • No return point: It is not a question of • Finish point: Villanueva de Tapia, at the it being a diffi cult stage from the point of roundabout closest to Avenida Constitución, view of the effort or the orientation, but, at the southern part of the village. once you have passed the railway line the • Access to fi nish point: From the A-92 you best thing is to continue to Villanueva should take the A-333 Archidona Alcaudete. de Tapia. From Málaga, the A-359 towards Granada and turn off onto the A-333. • Maps: The walks begins on 1024-I (Archidona), for the most part it At the beginning of this Stage you’ll pass close by the Fuente de continues on1024-II (Estación de Sacristan spring, which is very important for the walkers in Archidona Salinas station) and the last small part at Villanueva de Tapia on map number 1007-IV (Villanueva de Tapia). • District boundries: You will remain in the district of Archidona for most of this Stage, until you reach the A-333 (km 11.8). Here you will enter the district of Villanueva de Tapia not leaving it until the end.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 1711171 13 ARCHIDONA • VILLANUEVA DE TAPIA: Relict Dehesas

Except from the Fuente del Sacristán spring, which is not drinking water, there is no possibility of replenishing water along the way. • Connections to other footpaths and trails The road to the Fuente del Sacristán coincides with the beginning of your walk for the fi rst few metres, until you rejoin the Villanueva de Tapia again, as far as the This Stage allows for gazing anew from some of its hillocks over junction below the motorway. This section the grey crests and woodlands of the previous Stages coincides with the PR- A-125 up to crossing the railway line. This is indicated in the • Enjoy the walk safely previous stage as being discontinued, or at The most dangerous, as it often happens, is least under evaluation. This path is called walking along the few stretches of road, espe- the “Archidona noreste y Hoz de Marín”, cially the A-333 as it is a fast, straight stretch and it is circular. with high numbers of traffi c. But also, on this As you reach the level crossing, take the Stage is the level rail crossing without barriers GR-7 E-4. If in previous stages the Gran Senda on the Seville-Granada line: although it is in de Málaga was coinciding with the Ramal Sur, direction Granada, on this occasion it an area with good visibility. Be very cautious if is with the Ramal Norte, direction Córdoba, there is rain or fog. in this occasion it is a short section close The only wading point on this Stage is through to the road in which the other goes to the the Arroyo de las Negras stream, but here it Cortijo de Galván farmhouse. The stage of tends to gain mostly in width without too much GR-7 E-4 in question is that of Villanueva depth. The only alternative, in any case, would del Trabuco to Villanueva de Tapia be to use the fl yover of the motorway, which is What they both have in common is their not recommended. The A-92 is passed by means use of the Salinas road, which goes from of a tunnel, which usually presents no problems Villanueva de Tapia to Las Palomeras and not even by the circulation of water. continues southwards to the main road.

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

he Fuente del Sacristán spring gives name The Hoz de Marín stream only gains that to the whole area, including the nearby name close to Archidona, near where you exit Tfarmhouse. It must have been very im- this Stage to enter the town, it is still called the portant, not only as the point of a water supply Arroyo de la Fuente de la Loma. The tributaries which had a good reputation in the village, but which feed from the north into this watercourse also as a reference point giving name to the from left to right are Arroyo de la Acequia de road. The nearby Sierra de Archidona mountain Caballero, Arroyo del Sequillo and Arroyo de la range provides a water supply which merits the Negra, with the Arroyo de los Pirineos entering continued care of its environment. from the south.

172 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga ARCHIDONA • VILLANUEVA DE TAPIA: Relict Dehesas 13

The Gran Senda de Málaga introduces you to the Arroyo de la Negra stream which runs parallel to east, up-stream you cross its river bed. In this part the bank vegetation has been altered, with only some tall black poplars and other insubstantial trees. The plants that do prosper are the rushes and bulrushes. The scarce bank side vegetation does not prevent the stream hosting an important ﬁ sh and amphibian fauna. Some 500 metres before reaching the stream, the torrential rains of 2012 have provoked a 2 metre deep gully in the clayey ground, allowing the walker to recognize the many This traditional path is used by many hikers, cyclists and horse riders that cross the dehesas different sediment layers. The Arroyo del Sequillo gully, is of a lesser ﬂ ow and length than that of the Negra of the clays on which the olive groves are (until it is joins with an irrigation ditch), you grown has been deeply scarred by uncontrolled will cross it higher upstream when walking gullies which the locals have tried to repair to beside the motorway, here, just a small and prevent with varying results. There are stream among the Holm oaks. still some poplars, but more common are the Although they are not on our path, there brambles which grow in the earthy slopes. The are lakes near Archidona, to the east and Fuente de la Alameda is close to the village, situated near to the motorway A-92M. but perhaps the most curious place name is Lastly, the longest descent of the day that of the Fuente de Allalantes, which you leads you to cross the Arroyo de la Cerca gully will pass on your right as you reach the end besides Villanueva de Tapia. The softness of the section.

Olive groves and Holm oak trees surround the Gran Senda

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 173 13 ARCHIDONA • VILLANUEVA DE TAPIA: Relict Dehesas

WALK DESCRIPTION

From Archidona to the Arroyo de la Negra You leave Archidona by its eastern side, via a long avenue (Llano de Pablo Picasso) which is flanked by housing developments and an industrial estate. The road runs parallel with the direction of the Sierra de Archidona, it remains to the west, but accompanies you for a good distance. The limestone hill has an altitude of 1,014 meters at the peak named Pico Conjuro in the southernmost pepper next to the Ermita de la The gully caused by this stream in the olive grove, allows you Virgen de Gracia hermitage. The escarpments of to see a cut into the soil, showing layers of different particles this mountain range are toward the other side, that of the Seville-Granada motorway from there forming copses. They are more frequent on can be seen caves and cliffs with spectacular climbing and some ferratas (build climbing rou- either side of the path, marking the boundaries tes). The proﬁ les seen from the path are softer, between public and private ownership. The lacking in vegetation except the dense esparto two important farmhouses of this section tussock grass, small and isolated Holm oaks, will remain to your right, those of Monaguillo while you walk between olive groves and crops and Tomillar, it is from here that you will get in search of the Fuente del Sacristán (km 4.2 ), the best views in this Stage of the Central which is a tributary of the Negra stream. The Limestone Arch. Certainly the penultimate that highest area is covered by olive groves and well the Gran Senda offers you which are close to maintained almond groves, but all around are the mountain ranges which are the backdrop beautiful and ancient Holm oaks sometimes to Villanueva del Trabuco and Rosario. Las dehesas As soon as you have passed beneath the Toward the middle of the Stage Holm oak dehesas and Sage-leaved Cistus dominate alongside the trail motorway (km 6.5) you turn for Realenga del Puerto, which runs parallel to the motorway. You will leave the Cerro del Umbral behind you, as clear as the previous ones, and enter an area of the best preserved oak dehesas of this Stage. The Holm oak dehesas are a way of non- intensive farming utilizing mature trees; here it also combines well with hunting. Further combining these facets, in the surrounding patches of rough mountainous terrain there is a dense scrub of Montpelier rockrose, while other areas are ploughed and Olives have been planted.

174 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga ARCHIDONA • VILLANUEVA DE TAPIA: Relict Dehesas 13

There is a sign close by for the Vía Pecuaria, drovers track from Sevilla to Granada. Where your path turns towards the north from the motorway it is called Los Borbollones and the Hoyas de Galván follows afterwards, and the Sureco farmhouse. When you leave the district road (km 12) there are still some Holm oaks to the right, while the gullies to the east host mostly gorse, retama, and rockrose scrubland due to the more pronounced slopes. And soon you will arrive in the absolute Panoramic view sign at the Mirador de las Palomeras viewpoint domain of Olive trees, which is noted especially when you reach the last hillock, the Palomeras (15 km), where an illustrative poster at the viewpoint Mirador del Entredicho welcomes visitors to Villanueva de Tapia, at the head of the valley, gleaming white between the green of the olive groves and the paleness of the bare soil. This was the ﬁ rst of the New Villages to gain independence from Archidona, there were so many law suits that the village acquired the nick name El Entredicho (The Dubious) until guardianship was granted to the graduate Pedro Tapia, and Villanueva de Tapia amongst olives from ﬁ nal vantage the village took on his surname. point of the stage

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

1 Archidona, C/ Luis 30S 0379232 30S 0376716 2 Fuente del Sacristán spring 715 m Braille with Avda. 710 m 4108309 Andalucía, street 4106117 4 Arroyo de la Negra stream and 30S 0380619 3 Puerto en el Cortijo del 30S 0379966 705 m 725 m crossing the Sevilla-Granada motorway 4110118 Tomillar, mountain pass 4109348 6 Villanueva de Tapia to 30S 0382478 5 Level crossing 30S 0382656 728 m 740 m Salinas main road without barriers 4110425 4113086 8 Las Palomeras and Mirador 30S 0382806 7 Beginning of 30S 0383230 700 m the Camino del 730 m de Villanueva de Tapia viewpoint 4114508 Entredicho 4113107 10 Villanueva de Tapia/ 30S 0381380 9 Arroyo de la Cerca 30S 0381849 Avda. de la Constitución 680 m 625 m stream 4115836 roundabout 4115742

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 175 14 VILLANUEVA DE TAPIA • VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDAS

VILLANUEVA DE TAPIA 14 • VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDAS La Sierra del Pedroso and Arroyo del Bebedero

ESTIMATED TIME 4 hours 15 minutes

Altitude Cortijo los (m) Casilla de Cortijo de Isabelicos MA-5100 Era de la Sierra la Morena km 7 Rebollo 880 Villanueva 830 de Tapia 780 Molino Pozo 730 El Albaicín Villanueva 680 Arroyo del de Algaidas 630 Bebedero 580 530 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 Distance (km)

LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 16.7 Accumulated ascent 375 Final altitude 525 Ascent km 6.7 Accumulated descent 510 Maximum altitude 895 Descent km 7.9 Maximum difference 370 Minimum altitude 525 Flat km 2.1 Altitude at starting point 670 Average altitude 728

Summary of this Stage The stage 14 unites two pueblos in a straight line east- west which is interrupted in the middle by a large bend to the south. This is solved later by taking a long way by the stream Arroyo de Bebedero. The start is at higher altitudes than the ﬁ nal 150 meters, and you must add almost 900 meters, so the cumulative altitude is signiﬁ cant even if it does not pose a serious obstacle. At the beginning you skirt around the Sierra of el Pedroso, passing very close on your left and to the south. Then there is a long journey through hills of olive groves, reaching the highest point of the stage before linking with the road MA-5100. From there it’s down to the bottom of the Valley to follow the downward course of the Arroyo del Bebedero, passing through the hamlet of Albaicin, and retrieving the path to the west that places the traveller on a hillock from where you can see Villanueva de Algaidas and an Atalaya tower separated by a ravine that you will visit in the next stage.

176 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga La Sierra del Pedroso and Arroyo del Bebedero 14

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 1 2 1 3 5.6 11.1 0 NO

Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17

Highlights of this Stage The Sierra of el Pedroso shows in satellite photos as an island of much defined boundaries, a high promontory of 1,023 metres of elevation. In a sea of olive trees, the karstic massif occupied by a dense Mediterranean scrub with Holm oaks seems to want to re-conquer the outskirts ahead with grand old oaks proportions and areas of dehesas between crops. The Arroyo de Bebedero is another type of island, a linear one, which maintains rich vegetation with its clean waters. In the valley, in the area of Rondán, there is a good tree-lined, surface still standing because of growing on extremely steep slopes to the east and west. This stream is very important to the Great Path of Málaga because it will also be a hero of the beginning and the end of stage 15, under the shared name of Arroyo or Río de Burriana, (depending who you ask).

• Starting point: Villanueva de Tapia, at the • No return point: When you reach the roundabout near Constitution Avenue, in road MA 5100 it is not worth going back, the south of the village, passing below the continue down and reach the next village road A-333. on the GR. • Access to starting point: From the A-92 • Maps: The starting point is located on take the A-333 Archidona Alcaudete. From 1007-IV (Villanueva de Algaidas), the Malaga, the A-333 direction Granada and then A-359. middle on the 1024-I (Archidona) and the ﬁ nal part 1007-III (Villanueva de Algaidas). • Finish point: Villanueva de Algaidas via the Almeria Street, ending the stage at the • District boundries: At the beginning, logi- junction of the MA-6416 with MA-7203 to cally, you cross the boundaries of Villanueva Cuevas Bajas. de Tapia bordering with the Algaidas, • Access to finish point: There are two but only up to the km 2.5, a little before connections from the A-92 Seville-Granada, the Cortijo de la Morena. The foothills of A-7201 from Archidona and the A-7221 from the Sierra of el Pedroso are the border Antequera. between the two pueblos. Villanueva de • Possible “escape routes”: From the road Algaidas from km 7 to 8 and until the end, that you cross at the km 6, before descending but between 8.5 and 10.5 points you enter to the Arroyo de Bebedero you can continue territory of Archidona. It’s the stretch down and reach Archidona train station. to the Arroyo de Bebedero.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 177 14 VILLANUEVA DE TAPIA • VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDAS

• Enjoy the walk safely The stretch that may worry you a bit more is the long way from the Sierra of el Pedroso to the Arroyo of Bebedero. There is a real maze of tracks, a few asphalted and others not, and the advice is not leave the waymarked way. There is no drinking water throughout the tour.

• Connections to other footpaths and trails In the distance, the mountains of the Central Limestone Arch framing the white village of Villanueva de Tapia An important livestock right-of-way, La Colada de los Alamillos, starts at the same point as the GR. It was used by the neighbouring The surrounds of la Sierra del Pedroso village to bring their animals to the royal cattle (Stony Mountains) are, obviously, the least fair, in Villanueva de Tapia, the last chance to appropriate to walk and so there are no make deals of the season. The authorities approved paths except for the GR-7 E4. of Villanueva de Tapia have signposted the The itinerary of this walk practically coin- walk, which has been renamed as El Encinar, cides with the GR except for the section it is a circular 5.5 kilometres long and up at downhill to Arroyo de Bebedero. (which the Cortijo de la Morena it coincides with the flows around on the left) and arriving to GR. There are some information panels along Villanueva de Algaidas where it follows the route that explain this infrastructure. La Camino del Albaicín. Colada de Entredicho (Debatable) is the camino that leaves from Villanueva de Tapia. The The GR-249 the Cañada de los Puertos name comes from a process of assigning the uses to reach the destination of the stage, village to the nearest town and this one, as passing by northward through houses of we mentioned, is a stone´s throw both from the Albaicin, and turns to the west by the Granada and Córdoba. Camino de las Peñas.

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

a Sierra of el Pedroso is the collector and Villanueva de Algaidas next to the short road dispenser of water from the streams that linking it with Villanueva de Tapias. Lhave their headwaters here. The other watercourse is the Arroyo de One of them is seen just as you pass the Bebedero. This arises from the western ﬂ ank Cortijo de la Morena. It is a watercourse quite of el Pedroso and makes a wide curve to meet closed-in between clay slopes and it has been up with the GR. It follows the walk during quite granted the name of Barranco del Inﬁ erno, Hell’s long e a stretch. During this nice section you Ravine. From the walk it offers a rugged look, with will see a pool using a small natural spring dense riparian vegetation, on its way northwards. and after a hydraulic mill, El Molino de Pozo, Then it meets a tributary and is directed towards in front of other, also ruined, buildings.

178 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga La Sierra del Pedroso and Arroyo del Bebedero 14

On the other side, is a thick belt of Gall aks and Holm oaks that are holding onto a stout clay escarpment goes down in an oblique line among olive trees in search of the stream. There are plenty of trees: ash, willows, elms and poplars on the banks, plus a good specimen of an Holm oak wood on the slopes of Rondán. The watercourse has crved uout the banks The clay slopes covered in Olive trees surround a little down to the fi nest strata of limestone, whic is riparian forest in Barranco del Infi erno visible following a short detour to your left. The numerous Brambles, when not the cane fi elds at some time encouraged a pulation of crayfi sh. A are responsible for consolidating the high land little after passing the bridge over the Arroyo de of the river embankments. The many brabmbles, Bebedero, the path meets the afore- mentioned in the absence of reedbeds, are in charge of ravine barranco or Garganta del Infi erno and they holding the soil of the tall embankments of the enter the village together, breaking the village river together. The river bed is compacted due to nugget of the village´s population in the north the high contents of carbonate minerals, which called Atalaya apart from the village proper.

WALK DESCRIPTION

La Sierra del Pedregoso y la dehesa de encinas recent episodes of erosion, causing huge The climb from Villanueva de Tapia, gullies on both sides of the track. When through the Colada de Entredicho, over- you reach the first sections of the sierra, comes a steep rise among ancient olive on the left, you pass by a cluster of houses groves through terrain that has suffered in ruins known as the Los Curros and then La Casilla de Sierra, situated in a strategic The rows of olive trees respect the ancient specimens of oak, location with good views of la Nava and the some of them large and in excellent health shady slopes of the Sierra of el Pedroso. Here you will ﬁ nd a young Holm oak wood interspersed with numerous Kermes Oaks, forming an extremely thicket on the sharp limestone pavement, which makes for very tough walking for hunters, who mainly ue this spot. Interestingly, the oaks that grow down from the sierra to the path are small specimens, but the ones on the right side of the walk, tucked among olive groves, are much larger, which makes them a benchmark of past splendors. However as human-inﬂ uenced the area is, a certain balance can be observed,

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 179 14 VILLANUEVA DE TAPIA • VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDAS

Rows of Holm oaks and Gall Oaks stand out amongst the olives in the streams and dry stone walls

CInteresting when natural forests are the south now, has been used since time allowed to colonizes in the environment and immemorial to climb up to the area of sierra occupy ravines field edges, slopes, rocky and properties scattered in it, so the walk areas and to secure the soil. The north is escorted by many houses and cottages. corner of the sierra, an emblematic point, is Beside the track, in order, you will see the occupied by the Cortijo de las Morenas at the Cortijo de las Cascabeles, and then de los beginning of the Barranco del Inﬁ erno (km Isabelicos. Further up beside the junction 3). The Cortijo is an example of traditional to Villarto there is a group of houses: casa construction with the inner courtyard and Blanca, Cortijo Armanda, de Moreno and the front pavement, to avoid the transfer la Casella, now very close to the MA-5100 of abundant mud from the fields into the

house. There is still a meagre garden with The Arroyo Bebedero maintains enough pools and some fruit: quince, walnuts, apricots, ﬁ gs, an excellent representation of riparian groves pear and persimmons. The farmsteads between olive groves From here, with according change in vegetation, olive production becomes a monoculture, but only occupying slopes of certain height. The walk, which leads to

180 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga La Sierra del Pedroso and Arroyo del Bebedero 14 road, which you will walk on for a kilometre and a half towards north-east until you leave it at km marker 7.2 of the GR. Take a downhill track, in the area of Rebollo, to the west and then turn left along a paved track which you abandon soon to get to the bottom of the Valley. El Arroyo Bebedero There is no doubt that, given where the traveller is, the diversity of landscapes acts like a calming tonic during this stage. Now the path is accompanied by the dense natural vegetation of Holm oak forest and Portuguese (or Gall) Oaks which on both sides of the watercourse come down from the galleried woods, as already described. The area is known as Rondán and Malabrigo, between km 10 and 11.5. When the valley widens new houses The ﬂ ashy Biarum, of intense colour and unpleasant smell appear, Mateos, the Castillo de los Peláez, grow in the grasslands of the Sierra of el Pedr the Ventorro, lo de Prieto, increasingly separated from the watercourse, until you ahead as you cross the Arroyo de Bebedero. reach the Albaicin. So far you walked pre- A new twist of the path to the left reveals dominantly in the north direction, at km the village of Villanueva de Algaidas, down 13.4 turn west onto an asphalted road, at the Arroyo Burriana, where Stage 14 of which climes to a small pass Cerro de Peña the Great Málaga Path ends.

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

1 Villanueva de Tapia, 30S 0381380 30S 0379609 roundabout with Avda. 680 m 2 Casilla de la Sierra 830 m de la Constitución 4115742 4115727 30S 0378941 30S 0377890 3 Cortijo de la 870 m 4 Cortijo de los Isabelicos 870 m Morena 4116082 4114897 30S 0377892 30S 0376239 5 Ctra. MA-5100, 845 m 6 Threshing circle and ﬁ nca 720 m km 7, road 4113686 El Rebollo 4114084 30S 0374956 30S 0374012 7 Molino Pozo, mill 680 m 8 El Albaicín 600 m 4113418 4115199 30S 0372844 10 Villanueva de Algaidas, 30S 0371418 9 Puente sobre Arroyo 720 m Polígono Industrial, 530 m del Bebedero, bridge 4116584 Industrial Estate 4117081

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 181 15 VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDAS • CUEVAS BAJAS: Mosarabic Road

VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDAS 15 • CUEVAS BAJAS Mosarabic Road

ESTIMATED TIME 2 hours 45 minutes

Altitude Cerro de (m) Mirador de la Cruz Mirador Vva. de Algaidas del Cedrón 680 Puente Río Burriana 630 El Cedrón 580 Villanueva La Atalaya de Algaidas 530 A-7300 480 km 8 Cuevas 430 Bajas 380 330 0 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3 3.5 4 4.5 5 5.5 6 6.5 7 7.5 8 8.5 9 9.5 10 Distance (km)

LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 10.1 Accumulated ascent 260 Final altitude 330 Ascent km Accumulated descent 460 Maximum 3.2 altitude 705 Descent km 5.2 Maximum difference 375 330 Flat km Altitude at starting 530 Minimum altitude 1.7 point Average altitude 510

Summary of this Stage Nothing could be more ﬁ tting the environment than sharing the walk during Stage 15 with the Camino Mozárabe, since there is a medieval chapel in the village of this origin and an abandoned convent that starts the ramble of both long stretches. The predominant direction of travel is north up to the Cerro de la Cruz to progressively turning west, a journey marked by the ascent to the top of that hill. Both the distance and the slopes are quite approachable. You must pass through the nugget of population called La Atalaya separated from Villanueva de Algaidas by the Arroyo de Bebedero or Burriana River, which forms a gully in the calcareous sandstone spanned by a medieval bridge. Then there comes the climb in search of Cortijos Loma Vieja and Loma Nueva farmhouses until the edge of the three district boundaries, from where you begin walking downhill. Always following dirt tracks, this part offers an impressive viewpoint over the Valley of the Genil and passes through a new farmhouse, the Cerdón, as you walk to your destination, again the riverbed of the river Burriana.

182 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDAS • CUEVAS BAJAS: Mosarabic Road 15

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 1 1 1 2 5.4 3.8 0.9 NO

Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17 Highlights of this Stage The gully carved into the rock where Villanueva de Algaidas stands (Villanueva of Forests in a free translation) is a true island in the sea of olive trees, a relic of the original vegetation caused by the shadiness of the slopes. Such is the attraction of the place that there was the convent of our Lady of the Consolation of the Algaidas built here, which was awarded by the ﬁ rst Duke of Osuna in 1566 to the Congregation of the Recollected Parents of San Francisco de Asís. Attached to the ruins of the convent is a Mozarabic rock chapel dating back to the IX and X centuries with the Church divided in three naves (the Baptistry, the sacristy and the prayer area) and a nave used as housing quarters. Normally you can visit it without any problems. A medieval bridge still in use crosses the river and communicates with the watchtower. The Cerro de la Cruz (Junction Hill) is one of those important those landmarks which as its name suggests, is a place where three boundaries unite. But for the traveller it may be the spectacular panoramic views over three provinces from the viewpoint of the Cedrón, conveniently explained in a commemorative panel. Finally, the visit to the farmhouses of the Cedrón (of Jewish origin) and the Moheda (founded by the Andalucíans) offers some beautiful glimpses into communal life in these small centres of population which thankfully resist the passage of time. The Moheda is out of the way but so close that it is worth a detour. The connection with Camino Mozárabe is one more added value to the stage.

• Starting point: At the crossroads of not necessary to plan at this stage, given MA-6416 with the MA-7203 to Cuevas its short length and low difficulty. Bajas, at the northern end of the main • No return point: Once you are on top of centre of population of the village. Cerro de la Cruz it is worth it to continue • Access to starting point: There are going down instead of coming back. The two connections, Seville-Granada A-92, settlement El Cedrón is already quite close. A-7201 from Archidona and the A-7221 • Maps: The entire route is located on sheet from Antequera. AC 1007-III (Villanueva de Algaidas). • Finish point: Arroyo of Barranco Hondo, • District boundries: On the Cerro de after crossing the village of Cuevas Bajas, Tres Cruces you are in between three at the south-western tip of the village. boundaries: Cuevas de San Marcos (which you don´t walk along) Villanueva de • Access to finish point: From Villanueva Algaidas and Cuevas Bajas. It is the km de Algaidas the MA-7203. 4.5; the remaining 5.5 kilometres belong • Possible “escape routes”: They are to the latter village.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 183 15 VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDAS • CUEVAS BAJAS: Mosarabic Road

• Enjoy the walk safely You have to stock up on water in the heat, since there is no drinking water along the walk. Be careful with the traffi c on the road before reaching Cuevas Bajas. The paved track before that does not hold danger as there is scarce transit of vehicles. • Connections to other footpaths and trails The main novelty for the GR at this Stage is the fact that it follows entirely the 7th section of Camino Mozárabe of Malaga, coming from Mozarabic rock church and Villanueva de Algaidas La Atalaya, seen during the fi rst steps of the day Cartaojal. At the beginning, you will traditional paths, like the Camino de Algaidas to Loma Vieja. The fi nal section walked on the road, coincides with the GR from the beginning of is called Colada de Cedrón which also passes the stage up to the bridge on the Burriana, through la Moheda. but then turns towards the east to complete The twin GR, 7 E – 4, on this occasion only its loop. The Town Hall in Cuevas Bajas has shares with the Great Path of Malaga a section designed three short tours under the heading along the ravine of the river Burriana, and of Routes for a Healthy Life. Two of them go then follows the course of this river to reach to the vegas del Genil to the eastern part the same destination. They separate at km of the Fernández Lake and the west of the marker same to reach the same destination. farmhouse of Isla Grande and Las Huertas. They are separated at kilometre 1.5, at its Both share the starting point at the municipal access road to the Atalaya. The PR-A 129 gymnasium. The third walk climbs la Moheda circular of Villanueva de Algaidas is 7, 5 km and El Cedrón, and the itinerary resembles long and connects two nearby settlements, it more the GR-249.

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

here is no consensus on where the well- Arriving at Villanueva de Algaidas you known old Arroyo de Bebedero gets are faced with sandstone a cliff, identical Tits name of Río Burriana but yes, that to the popular Tajo de Ronda or of Alhama is its new name as it leaves Villanueva de de Granada which is excavated and forms Algaidas. This is logical since from the pue- a canyon, not long but considerably high. blo up there is a fan of tributaries of various On the vertical walls of the path you can sizes. The watercourses which are important see orifi ces which had been carved out by have been named here: Arroyo de Bebedero water when the river waters reached higher. and del Infi erno which come from the remote The rock preserves its pretty clay colour in Sierra de Pedroso. these orifi ces and in the overhangs which

184 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDAS • CUEVAS BAJAS: Mosarabic Road 15 contrasts with the ash black colour of the cuts exposed to the oxidizing action of rainwater. The vegetation in this gully is exuberant, highlighting a large population of European Nettle Trees with large leaves growing in the shade, and quite a few elms. On the watercourse the reed beds occupy the more open areas, and oak forest that climbs up to the cliffs shelters a wide variety of species in Bridge over the Río Burriana its quality underbrush: Kermes oak, mastic, buckthorn, jasmine, Osyris alba, together with the fi g tress and Portuguese Gall Oaks the fl ow during signifi cant fl oods. The blocks You can cross the river on the medieval old of sandstone rock bound together by mortar bridge resting on bedrock on both sides for and brick arches have managed to resist the support. It is a beautiful infrastructure with passage of water and time to be used today one main arch and two sides ones to relieve by the Great Malaga Path.

WALK DESCRIPTION

El Río Burriana Villanueva de Algaidas was founded as the population around the ravine was the various scattered nuggets of separate farm- Franciscan convent and the shaping of the steads: El Albaicín, La Parilla, Grill, Zamarra, terrain of the area: better location for de- Solana, Barranco del Agua, the Atalaya, fensive reasons, next to the course of water and Rincona. The trigger to consolidate and with accessible sandstone as building material. This is the scenario of the two ﬁ rst Majestic ruins of the Franciscan convent of our Lady kilometres of the stage. of the Consolation of the Algaidas From the crossroads in the northern part of the village take a path that leads to the watchtower. The track fords a stream with the watercourse encased in sandstone and moves toward the ruins of the convent. The transit of horses and people has carved deep grooves in the calcareous rock; you can even see the spaced holes that horseshoes have left after so many years of passing by. The convent and the Mozarabic Church are to the left, looking to the west, while the walk leads down to the right towards the river. The vegetation becomes denser and diverse

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 185 15 VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDAS • CUEVAS BAJAS: Mosarabic Road

A great place from which to see the Valley of the Guadalquivir, the viewpoint of the Cedrón

in this stretch with railings which let you get Pay attention during this descent and close to the sandstone cliffs. Then cross the you will notice the Chaparro Bolondro, Burriana River by the Puente Viejo and go a much-loved oak tree which even was downhill to ﬁ nd La Atalaya, which gives you granted its own information panel down at an interesting viewpoint to the path you have the Cedrón farm. The hamlet is very close, already walked. The GR-7 E-4 separates at but before you get there, there is a must-do this point (km 1.5) and still continues along stop at the Mirador of the Cedrón at km 6, its Moorish path. advertised by various regional, Andalucían and international institutions. La Loma de La Cruz Few places can offer such a wide-ranging Now it is time to climb a good-size slope view, perfectly explained in a panoramic heading north along the Camino de Aldaidas. Turn around few times to admire the panoramic views over the village with the Sierra Villanueva de Algaidas from GR-249 climbing de Arca behind, with the wind farm on top. Cerro de las Cruces You will passes through ruins half-way on the hill side where you can see many rabbit families and when the slope ﬂ attens out at km 4 you are on top of the hill. Here are the Loma Vieja farmhouses, with the threshing circle you walk across and the nearby Loma Nueva. Both have Palm trees planted at the entrance. The point where three village boundaries meet is on the side of the path, but the path itself passes by a water deposit on top of a small hill and starts taking you downhill.

186 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDAS • CUEVAS BAJAS: Mosarabic Road 15 poster, in the countryside of Cordoba and Granada provinces, in a spot where, as they say around here. In Cuevas Bajas, Malaga overlooks the Genil. The descent starts to make a turn to the west and will reach the hamlet of Cedrón, with its communal oven and very intense history. A dozen white houses cluster around the main street with its still- recognizable “empedrado” paving, which the path leads along. There is a detour Burriana river in Cuevas Bajas River, near its delta in Genil nearby to the Moheda, but the GR opts to pass beside the farmhouse of the Molinas, and by the Paraje de Montecillo (km 7). Go down towards the asphalted track until you come to the road which leads to the village of Cuevas Bajas. You enter the village from the south-east via Calle Archidona. It passes through the main square by the Church of San Juan Bautista with its brick facade Baroque Clock Tower whose belfry contains three bells. The stage ends beside the river Burriana, almost where it reaches the Genil, in an Avenida lavishly dotted with The farmhouse of the El Cedrón contains some elements of panels suggesting hiking and kayaking. traditional architecture as beautiful as this little corner

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

1 Villanueva de 30S 0371418 2 Convento Franciscano y 30S 0371113 Algaidas, 530 m 4117081 Ermita Mozárabe, convent 465 m Industrial Estate and Mosarabic hermitage 4117517 30S 0371267 3 Puente sobre el 447 m 4 Barriada de La Atalaya, 30S 0371125 Río Burriana, bridge 4117658 510 m neighbourhood 4118002 5 Mirador de 30S 0371355 Villanueva de 570 m 6 Cortijo de la Loma Vieja, 30S 0372013 4118976 700 m Algaidas, viewpoint farmhouse 4119804 7 Cerro de la Cruz 30S 0371929 8 Mirador del Cedrón, 30S 0371075 (where three village 705 m 625 m districts meet) 4120290 viewpoint 4121161 9 Alquería de 30S 0370754 10 Carretera A-7300 30S 0369280 El Cedrón, hamlet 570 m 415 m 4121282 Km 8, road 4121799 11 Cuevas Bajas 30S 0368027 en el Río Burriana, 325 m caves 4121945

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 187 16 CUEVAS BAJAS • ALAMEDA: The sea of olives

CUEVAS BAJAS • ALAMEDA 16 The sea of olives

ESTIMATED TIME 4 hours 45 minutes

Altitude (m) Mirador Cortijo Cortijo Cortijo Cortijo del Alameda Loma de Andrés San Ramón La Sarteneja La Capilla Realengo Bosque Isla Cortijo 505 del Duende 480 Cortijo 455 Pajariego 430 405 380 Cuevas 355 Bajas 330 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Distance (km)

LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 21.2 Accumulated ascent 310 Final altitude 500 Ascent km 9.8 Accumulated descent 125 Maximum altitude 500 Descent km 7.3 Maximum difference 175 Minimum altitude 325 Flat km 4.1 Altitude at starting point 325 Average altitude 450

Summary of this Stage Cuevas Bajas is at the level of the river Genil, so any route that is directed towards the plateau of Antequera you must climb. Stage 16 has done just, this to the south, up the hill that separates the two main water courses in the area, the river Burriana and Barranco Hondo. From a vantage point overlooking the previous stages, with Villanueva de Algaidas as protagonist of the landscape, the rest of the walk concentrates on the climb to Alameda There is a long journey to Alameda through the vast sea of olive trees and dry crops of Antequera, with a string of spectacular cottages scattered around, vast estates, resembling a nerve centres of these large agricultural terrain where hunting is also practiced. Unexpected help for the long-distance hiker is having access to the main local place names of the stage just by reading the names on the doors of every farmstead. Because of the maze of farm lanes, the walk does need to lead along roads but it will perform a few sharp turns, some of the quite sudden, in order to piece together a logical route between the two villages, between the fertile river plain (vegas) and the hilly cultivated countryside (campiña).

188 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga CUEVAS BAJAS • ALAMEDA: The sea of olives 16

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 2 1 1 3 1.0 20.2 0 x 1

Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17

Highlights of this Stage The stage is quite long and in theory could be monotonous, but fortunately there are enough elements that stimulate the landscape, a couple of them really unique. Some of Andalucían farmhouses that are visited at the stage are even mentioned in specialized publications, given their architectural features, a stone´s throw location to the main manors, the adaptation to the interior Malaga climate and functioning as the epicentre of the productive activity. In the past the number of workers who stayed (at least started the work off in heavy work-load seasons) was such that the houses resembled seemed small inns or industrial buildings. Some of them even have chapels and the cobbled courtyard is the element on which each farmstead was built. . Lagoons that are located in the vicinity of one of them, Sarteneja, constitute an oasis for countless birds and some amphibians, as well as a shelter for mammals and birds, (hunting species and not). Unexpected forest islands are found between the farmhouses of the Seraﬁ na and the Goblin. There are several which are good-sized and are close to the path, so it is easy to appreciate the life that thrives in them or the network of rabbit holes that tunnel under them.

• Starting point: Barranco Hondo, the ravine no pueblos which would be closer than the and riverbed of Burriana, after crossing the ones at the start (and at the end). In whichever village of Cuevas Bajas, at the south-western case, starting from km 9 at the motorway it tip of the village. is best o continue towards Alameda. • Access to starting point: from Villanueva • Maps: 1007-II (Villanueva de Algaidas) at de Algaidas the MA-720. the start and 1006-IV (Alameda) till the end • Finish point: junction of the Ventorrillo, in of the section. the vicinity of Alameda. • District boundries: The stage leads parallel • Access to ﬁ nish point: Alameda can be to the border with the province of Córdoba, reached from La d de Andalucía (SE-775), but obviously always passes through villages Fuente de Piedra (MA-701), Mollina (MA-703) or from the Autovía A-45 by the MA-708. of Malaga. Burriana River marks the line between Cuevas Bajas and Córdoba at the • Possible “escape routes”: each of the large farmhouses can be reached by at beginning, but a few meters further the least one main lane in very good condition watercourse is the border between Villanueva which inevitably becomes a road at the end. de Algaidas and wedge-shaped Antequera. You also walk above the A-45 up to km 83 The stage takes you mostly through Antequera and cross the road to Palenciana (MA-709). boundaries but shortly before Alameda it • No return point: This long stage requires leads just between Antequera and Molina. you to consider the possible escape routes The area of Ventorillo is also present in this mentioned above, considering that there are transition point.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 189 16 CUEVAS BAJAS • ALAMEDA: The sea of olives

• Enjoy the walk safely A stage as long as this one, even without big elevation gain, must be planned carefully. There are is no water points on the walk, at least with public access, and abandoning the walk in the event of problems could be a bit complicated. Although the path is public for the most part, the properties are not, neither the buildings nor crops. We must try not to disturb the normal functioning of these farms. Panoramic view of the spacious farmland where the dry farmland • Connections to other footpaths and trails and olive groves alternating at the beginning Right at the kilometre 4 begins a stretch of asphalt where a double signal is located. are on the Pajariego track approximately up It corresponds to the variant of the GR-7 E-4 to 2.5 km. From 13 to 17.5 kilometres is the between Antequera and Cuevas Bajas which path of Villanueva de Algaidas and from km it links with the north to Córdoba. This walk 20 it is the Camino de Cuevas Bajas. These leads form Cartaojal at this point and is also two last Caminos branch out to the east of used as the Camino Mozárabe de Málaga. Both the town of Alameda. Cuevas Bajas district of these walks lead in the opposite direction to is exactly on the border with Cordoba or gets the GR-249 till las Cuevas Bajas. into the neighbouring province at times and In terms of the traditional paths, from Cuevas the Villanueva de Algaidas is located a little Bajas up to the farmhouse of Pajariego you more towards the south.

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

urriana River has been regulated as it passes through the town of Cuevas Bajas, Band just has some reeds, cattails and cane. There are some Poplar trees and Tamarisk. The watercourse has dragged in enough sediment from the nearby hills and you still see the effects of the ﬂ oods of the 2012. The proximity to the plains of the river Genil provides the hiker with an occasional view of an ox-driven water wheel and systems of irrigation canals. Barranco Hondo turns out to be an (often dry) streambed where Tamarisk groves persevere, The ﬁ rst hill overlooks the village of Villanueva de Algaidas adapted to saline soils. The walk leads through and the valley of the river Burriana

190 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga CUEVAS BAJAS • ALAMEDA: The sea of olives 16 them and it ascends along the slope which is also the watershed of the river basins. When you are at close to the fi nish you cross another stream Already at the end you cross another watercourse, the Arroyo Gaen, that while in the area it looks a bit soulless, lower down and to the right it harbours areas of primeval scrub with local species of trees. From the environmental El Cortijo de Camilla, one of the fi rst large farmhouses, point of view the most outstanding are the which you pass on your right lagoons of the Sarteneja. The fi rst to see is also the biggest, opposite the farmhouse. It is evident from a belt of reed beds, encouraging very shallow but with a fairly extensive water the presence of diving waterfowl such as the surface allowing the visits of coots, herons and Grebe. There are some large eucalypts between fl amingos. At the junction to the left, there is both and a grove of tamarisk A little later, be- access between an abandoned house and side the motorway; there is another area that some hedges of pampas grass up to the dyke is fl ooded, medium size between the earlier separating this lagoon from another, deeper ones but interesting from the point of view of one. This lagoon holds water longer as it is the vegetation.

In Sarteneja, deeper lagoon retains more stable water level, a belt of riparian plants

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 191 16 CUEVAS BAJAS • ALAMEDA: The sea of olives

WALK DESCRIPTION

La Loma de Andrés A dense belt of reeds mark the perimeter of the deep lagoon Andrés Hill at the beginning take rambla above the Barranco Hondo, under the road bridge where bred wild pigeons, passing beside some livestock ships, until it crosses the river and begins to rise. This puts the traveller between the Burriana River, to the East and the Barranco Hondo to the West. At the top of the Hill is the huge farmhouse Pajariego, the first of the day, among olive groves and dry. The hill can see both valleys and the town of Villanueva de Algaidas. It descends a little and you reach kilometer 4, where ends the coincidence with the GR-7 E-4 and Camino Mozárabe. Here is a break of 90° to the West and still roam the farmland.

The great sheet of water of the greater Sarteneja lagoon suffers the summer heat and dries out sometimes

1191922 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga CUEVAS BAJAS • ALAMEDA: The sea of olives 16

Las Lagunas del Cortijo de la Sarteneja The next farmhouse is San Ramón (or Casa del Conde on maps) with a wide esplanade, and next comes the Sarteneja. These lagoons are at kilometre 7, in a small depression between soft hills occupied by olive groves, somwhat away from the road, to the south. The track, goes by the third pond to the right a bit later; the lagoon, El Perezón, seems to have lent its name to the whol surounding area. The access is on a service road of the A-45 to Next to Alameda tractors have deposited the olive leaves and left- cross to the other side on a road bridge at km over branches after olive-picking season 83 of the road. Until thee is another road , to Palenciana, you walk through the Cortijo de las Capillas and Cortijo Realengo Andalusia. Some patches of mountains remain visible far away in the distance from the walk, The islands of forests especially the biggest north of the farmhouse. The walk climbs slightly upto a mall farm Almost immediatelly after coming upon it you with silos. in the area it is known as Vega Alta, ford the Arroyo Gaen (km18) having passed the and then the path descends to the farmhouse farmhouse called Duende (Goblin). You will have of the Seraﬁ na, at km 16. Right next to the the bird´s view over the rocky moutain tops house there are some pockets of Holm oak, as covered in trees. After a short section through a souvenir left over from what the area used to the Yedrecillo and you arrive comfortably at be. Due to the high productivity of the land, it the Ventorrillo junction, east of the town of is probably one of the best Holm oak groves of Alameda where stage 16 ends.

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

1 Cuevas Bajas 30S 0367918 30S 0368327 in the Arroyo de 325 m 2 Cortijo Pajariego, 460 m Barranco Hondo 4121742 farmhouse 4119370 3 Mirador de la 30S 0367969 4 Cortijo San Ramón, 30S 0367050 Loma de Andrés, 500 m farmhouse 470 m viewpoint 4118850 4118803 5 Cortijo de 30S 0364990 6 Cortijo de la Capilla, 30S 0362809 la Sarteneja, 475 m farmhouse 500 m farmhouse 4118593 4118142 7 Cortijo del 30S 0360742 8 Cortijo de la Seraﬁ na, 30S 0358446 Realengo, 487 m farmhouse 420 m farmhouse 4117174 4116792 30S 0354130 9 Arroyo de Gaén, 30S 0357037 10 Loma de El Ventorrillo 455 m (Alameda), hillside 515 m stream 4118105 4118539

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 193 17 ALAMEDA • FUENTE DE PIEDRA: La Sierra de la Camorra and Arroyo de Santillán

ALAMEDA • FUENTE DE PIEDRA 17 La Sierra de la Camorra and Arroyo de Santillán

ESTIMATED TIME 3 hours 55 minutes

Bosque Isla Altitude Sierra de Mollina Pinar Loma (m) de Pegote 545 Alameda 520

495 A.R. Arroyo de Santilán Carretera 470 MA-701 Laguna de Autovía Fuente 445 A-92 de Piedra

420 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 Distance (km)

LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 18.6 Accumulated ascent 60 Final altitude 420 Ascent km 5.8 Accumulated descent 160 Maximum altitude 550 Descent km 7.9 Maximum difference 135 Minimum altitude 415 Flat km 4.9 Altitude at starting point 500 Average altitude 480

Summary of this Stage

Alameda and Fuente de Piedra, the beginning and the end of stage, are in a straight line north-east and south-west but separated by the mountain ranges of the Camorra or Mollina. The itinerary is to skirt the sierra from the south to follow a gentle curve to the west. At the beginning you will walk along the road MA-702 then to take dirt tracks to the left and climb a small pass located in the mountainside of repopulated pine. Bearing right gradually pass through a forested area until it becomes the countryside again and get to the source of the Arroyo Santillán and its recreational area. Once on the ﬂ at land, walk along a succession of tracks and then cross the AVE line, the MA-701 road and the Autovía, A-92.Enter from the north direction the village Fuente de Piedra, make a turn westwards and passing over the railway line arrive at the José Antonio Valverde visitor´s centre.

194 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga ALAMEDA • FUENTE DE PIEDRA: La Sierra de la Camorra and Arroyo de Santillán 17

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 1 1 1 3 3.9 14.7 - NO

Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17

Highlights of this Stage The Sierra de la Camorra is a too much of an obstacle to try climbing it, it is easier to skirt around its southern side, also to learn a little about some of its vegetation. You can visit the two larger forests located on the western and southern ﬂ anks. There is a bit of holm oak, but it is the forest of Aleppo pine which dominates the forest. There is also a good view of the Vega de Antequera during the descent, near the caves. The Recreational Area of the source source of the Arroyo Santillán is an oasis of greenery in the surrounding landscape. It has an extensive area of public use and allows to learn about the origins of Laguna de Fuente de Piedra. There are some splendid panoramic views to the lagoon. A few meters away there is the Castellum of Santillán located in the Caperuzón, Roman ruins dated back to 1st to 3rd centuries A, D., and the ruins are of a residential villa which was later walled. There is also recently built the chapel of Virgen de la Oliva.

• Starting point: the Ventorrillo junction, destination, follow any of the tracks that to the west of the village of Alameda. go directly to the south. Later on, the road • Access to starting point: Alameda can be leads to the Recreational Area or the one reached from La Roda de Andalucía (SE-775), you cross after that, are the best options. Fuente de Piedra (MA-701), Mollina (MA-703) • No return point: having limed the pass the or from the Autovía A-45 on the MA-708. best option is to follow to the Recreational • Finish point: José Antonio Valverde Area, i.e., go ahead. Visitor´s Centre of the Laguna de la Fuente • Maps: The start of the stage southwards is de Piedra natural reserve. on 1006-II (Alameda). The turn is reﬂ ected • Access to ﬁ nish point: from the A-92 on 1023-II (Mollina) and the stage ends Seville-Granada, at the exit form Fuente at 1023-I (Humilladero). de Piedra village and following the signs • District boundries: Just as you start you to the visitor´s centre. leave the town boundaries of Alameda • Possible “escape routes”: there is a to Mollina, and continue in the latter´s moment, when you go through the pine boundaries until Arroyo Santillán (9 km) forest of the Sierra de Mollina, where that where you cross over to the boundaries town is closer than the point of origin or the of Fuente de Piedra.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 195 17 ALAMEDA • FUENTE DE PIEDRA: La Sierra de la Camorra and Arroyo de Santillán

• Enjoy the walk safely Three large infrastructures are passed on ﬂ yovers, so the danger is minimal. The only crossing on the road level is the road MA-701. Other than that, this stage poses no problems, neither because of its length, difﬁ culty level or isolation. • Connections to other footpaths and trails

The inhabitants of the villages that surround The Sierra of the Camorra or Mollina viewed from a nearby vineyard the Sierra de Mollina (798 m) and the Camorra (684 m) feel a strong attraction to the hills. In the middle of ﬂ at environment there are two south of the sierra, and climbs in search of a hills making for excellent landscapes. It is very cave La Cueva de la Gotera plus a few others. common to do the circular route of the Sierra de The blue route is very interesting because la Camorra, hiking or cycling. However, the walk it takes you, for example, to the Corralón it is not marked as ofﬁ cially adapted for leisure. limestone formation where special vegeta- There are several options close to the track. tion grows, with the outstanding beautiful The so-called red route begins at the farmhouse European Nettle Tree. There are four more Cortijo de la Capuchina, at the mountain pass walks, along tracks, to Caperuzón (Roman of this stage, and ends at the trig point on top of the hill after 6 kilometres of walking. The ruins), the Verdun, Portiichelo and Capuchina, abundance of caves in the area is almost pro- almost all of archaeological interest. verbial and during the walk you can see some In the Natural Reserve of the Laguna of the major ones, including the Abrigo de los de la Fuente de Piedra there are two paths Porqueros. The green route leaves from Cordel prepared for visitors to the lagoon complex de Santillan, the area between pine forests and they will be described in the next Stage. THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

he great protagonist of the walk in terms The walk leads almost entirely on a forest track which of water is the sierra itself, apparently passes through olive groves and dry-farmed land Tdry but keeping the secret of many water sources inside and around it, the major one is the Arroyo Santillan. There are many caves explored in the limestone mass, witnesses to underground water circulation slowed and enclosed by the karstiﬁ cation of the ground. The Cueva de Organos must be mentioned because of its extensive size, la Sima del Soldado because of its depth and then the Cueva de la Goteras. Other caves constitute semi-open shelter, less

196 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga ALAMEDA • FUENTE DE PIEDRA: La Sierra de la Camorra and Arroyo de Santillán 17 important form adventure sports point of view but more insignifi cant for the history of human species in the area. The caves were used as shelter since ancient times or witnesses of the adventures of bandits, like the shelter of Almirez. In any case, all of them have something to do with the erosive action of water. And the water that penetrates The Kermes oak is one of the shrubs that thrive under the into the sierra should come out again, due to pine forest or in thickets on limestone the geological conditions of the terrain as it will push the water out away from the bedrock when The fascination or simple interest in these the layers it encounters are impermeable and places where water fl ows has caused diffe- facing the right direction. This is what happens rent cultures settled here throughout the in the source of the Arroyo Santillan, on the history. Here it was especially the Romans, border between the boundaries of Mollina as it is evident, for example, in the adjacent and Fuente de Piedra. The sierra generates archaeological site by a small inconspicuous numerous creeks fanning out towards the south, water spring. Finally, wells were dug out like Berdún, Aceiteros or the very Santillan, the for agriculture in the fi nal part of the route, biggest watercourse. The walk accompanies in the area of Las Albinas (salt marshes), a the stream from its source almost to its delta place name that is derived from temporary in the lagoon at its northern end. and frequent fl ooding of the land.

The dense shade of the forests of Aleppo pines hardly leaves room for ﬂ owers, but this humble bulb plant found an opening

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 197 17 ALAMEDA • FUENTE DE PIEDRA: La Sierra de la Camorra and Arroyo de Santillán

WALK DESCRIPTION

Las Sierras de la Camorra and Mollina The Aleppo pine wood dominates, especially where The ﬁ rst meters are walked on the road (which the GR meets the sierra goes to Mollina) from the Ventorrillo (small Inn) whose name brings back the times when there was a business opportunity created by the new junction and village boundaries). Alameda is passed on the right the asphalt leads you south-west until you have travelled a mile and a half. Then the track turns south through the area of Buenavista, among olive trees and working ﬁ elds, and the ground begins to be steep. Near a Buenavista farmhouse, José María, the bandit nicknamed El Tempranillo found his death at the hands of another José María, el Barberillo de Estepa. The tracks are in good condition right up to the pass (550 metres of altitude, km 4) where a grove of Holm oaks and pine woods take over the landscape. The density of the wood allows little undergrowth, and there is only some scrub on the edges of the forest.

At the foot of the sierras almonds have been the traditional crop, growing in the reddish clay

198 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga ALAMEDA • FUENTE DE PIEDRA: La Sierra de la Camorra and Arroyo de Santillán 17

The road descends and the track becomes increasingly worse starting at the Cortijo de la Camorra. It passes then an almond grove, slightly abandoned (5 km), and a kilometre further the path enters between pine trees, bushes of Purple Phlomis, gorse, rockrose and some mastic. The little hills on the left are those of Vergara and the Loma de Pegote. Between them and the sierra, in the area with highest plant density of the area, la Colada de Santillan brook ﬂ ows along the Great Path of Málaga. The rest Olive-picking leaves branches and leaves around a of the sierra has suffered the consequences farmhouse of forest ﬁ res to greater or lesser extent.

From Nacimiento del Santillan to for the south direction again along the train Laguna de Fuente de Piedra line and follow the motorway south to fi nd As you walk by the Recreational Area at the safe pedestrian crossing (km 15.5). km 9, you are walking exactly westwards Fuente de Piedra is quite close, and you and the terrain becomes level. Although there are patches of olives, the dry fi elds need to walk its streets and come out of the take over. Now the track will pass by many village again to fi nd the overpass that leads infrastructures, some quite large and known to the parking lot Cerro del Palo at the superb at an international level, such as the AVE Visitor´s Centre José Antonio Valverde and speed train tracks (km10) level. At km 12.3 one of the symbols of Malaga, a star natural cross carefully the MA-701 road. Now look reserve Laguna de la Fuente de Piedra.

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

1 Loma de 30S 0354130 30S 0353336 El Ventorrillo 515 m 2 Forest-Island of Sierra de 545 m (Alameda) 4118539 Mollina 4115939 3 Replanted pine 30S 0353546 4 Mirador de Antequera, 30S 0353824 550 m viewpoint 540 m forest 4115376 4114904 5 Pinar de la Loma 30S 0353264 6 Área Recreativa 30S 0350503 de Pegote, pine 530 m Nacimiento del Arroyo 457 m wood 4113796 de Millán 4112829 30S 0349698 30S 0347427 7 AVE speed train 460 m 8 Crossing the MA-701 430 m line 4112901 4113241 30S 0345220 9 Underground 30S 0345763 10 Centro de Visitantes 420 m José Antonio Valverde 420 m intersection of A-92 4112559 4111022

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 199 V In a lake territory

La Laguna de Fuente de Piedra The Great Malaga Path in a lake territory

t is not for the fi rst time that The Great Malaga and Campillos (the remaining 11). The ones Path has brought you to a lake territory. you will see directly from the Great Path of IYou walked close to the Lakes of Archidona Malaga are, in that order, Fuente de Piedra, during the previous stage, got to know those Lobón, Dulce, del Cerero, Camuñas, Capacete of Hondonero at another stage and passed by and Panza. Along this stage you will pass them Sarteneja two stages ago, then walked through to the south very close to Campillos. They are the of Sarteneja two sections ago. However, easily accessible from the A-7286 road that during the stage of Fuente de Piedra to Campillos leads to the reservoirs, the Laguna Salada and and eastwards towards the reservoirs, you are Redonda. The lagoon which is out of the way now entirely in the Malaga area where lakes the most is las Salinas, quite far eastwards and lagoons are very frequent, larger, envi- from Las Camuñas. Finally, there are the two ronmentally better preserved or have superior smallest lagoons, at equal distance from the tourist, scientifi c, and educational value. All track, and quite far: Laguna del Toro on the left the lagoons you will fi nd next belong to the and de Marcela on the right, direction a little boundaries of Fuente de Piedra (1 lagoon) southwards from Capacete.

200 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga In a lake territory V

The Lakes take up a very particular position very well the concentric circle distribution amongst the nature reserves of the province. They of halophytic vegetation, the cattails and are compact and with well-defi ned boundaries, reeds, and the tamarisk. We also realise that are usually small in size and, above all, there is the hills which form the lagoon´s watershed a stark contrast between how a lagoon is used harboured Holm oak woods that must have and perceived compared to its surroundings. In been spectacular. rural Malaga of the olive tree, vine and wheat, The traveller must fi ll in the gaps using the endorheic (having a closed drainage system) their imagination: the variety of trees and lagoons have been traditionally considered the alluring effect the combination of such as an unhealthy and somewhat mysterious very different environments must have had on body or as a place where resources such as fauna. It is diffi cult to visualize the primitive salt, water, the reeds or animals for hunting landscape of the Laguna de Fuente de Piedra, were there to be used at will. For one reason but in any case it would have been a shrine or another, lagoons have been treated badly of Malaga´s biodiversity comparable only to over time. The Laguna de Fuente de Piedra, its river estuaries. today a leader as far as visible results of fi rm From the point of view of conservation, it environmental conservation are concerned, seems that the natural value of the lagoon still retains memories of threats to its waters: was recognised internationally fi rst and then sewage spills, deforestation and mining. on a national level. It is diffi cult to imagine these lake environs It is also evident what role the Laguna as they originally were. Today we understand de Fuente de Piedra played in the protection

Surrounding vegetation and the sheet of water in the background

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 201 V In a lake territory

An iron mural showing the fauna and ﬂ ora, located in the visitor’s centre José Antonio Valverde

of its smaller versions; not only because of easier to present. In 1982 the Icona Instituto sharing its famous wildlife between them but para la Conservación de la Naturaleza (Nature also because of the fact that a joint project of Conservation Institute), bought the Fuente many close-by and similar habitats is much de Piedra Lagoon from its private owner and

Egrets and coots in Lobón lagoon

202 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga In a lake territory V

declared it national hunting reserve, a contra- to others involved in conservation: universities, diction, to say the least, compared with the local governments, farmers, ranchers, hunters, current approach. In 1983 it was included in conservation groups, etc. the wetlands of international recognition There is another protected area: Reserva by the Ramsar Convention and in 1988 the Natural Lagunas de Campillos, covering the lagoon became a special protection area for lagoons: Dulce, Salada, Redonda, de Capacete, birds (ZEPA, Spanish acronym) according to de Camuñas and de Cerero. There are others, a specific directive of the EU. Since 1984, but they are much more isolated, small, might coinciding with the creation of the Agencia be dried out and they fall outside the 1,341 de Medio Ambiente (Environment Agency), it hectares of Natural Reserve. has been legally identiﬁ ed as Reserva Integral, The Laguna de Fuente de Piedra at lowest a nature reserve in its entirety. altitude, about 400 meters, compared to the Currently, the legal structure that protects rest. Others, at an average height of around the lagoon is the Inventario de los Espacios 460 meters, are grouped in a circle around Naturales Protegidos de Andalucía where it is the Cerro del Romeroso, a hillock almost com- listed as a Reserva Natural. This law recognises pletely occupied by crops whose southern an area of intense protection at the lagoon and summit reaches 552 meters, presiding over a peripheral zone where any actions harmful to the whole lake. the environment are controlled and restricted; In order to complete the image of the la- a kind of cushion from threats coinciding with goon environments of the stages to come, we the belt around the lagoon´s basin. The small must mention the Ratosa Lagoon, west of the lagoon of Lobón is included in the protected village of Alameda, shared with the village of area. Currently the Ministry of Environment Humilladero, also declared a nature reserve, coordinates and supervises any actions effecting and quite close to the ofﬁ cial itinerary of the the lagoon´s environment, also giving a voice Great Path of Malaga.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 203 18 FUENTE DE PIEDRA • CAMPILLOS: Laguna de Fuente de Piedra, Lobón and Dulce

FUENTE DE PIEDRA • CAMPILLOS 18 Laguna de Fuente de Piedra, Lobón and Dulce

ESTIMATED TIME 3 hours 20 minutes Altitude (m) Laguna Laguna Campillos Mirador Cortijo de del Lobón Dulce 470 La Mora las Monjas 460 Arroyo de 450 Inicio carril Zona sur las Tinajas asfaltado de la laguna 440 Laguna 430 Fuente de Piedra 420 410 400 390 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Distance (km)

LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 15.7 Accumulated ascent 125 Final altitude 475 Ascent km 6.7 Accumulated descent 50 Maximum altitude 475 Descent km 4.7 Maximum difference 85 Minimum altitude 390 Flat km 4.3 Altitude at starting point 390 Average altitude 435

Summary of this Stage The walk follows a straight line between the two towns, north-east to south-west, leaving the large lake on the right. The walk leads along logical paths, which traditionally have been used between the neighbouring villages, many of which continue to have dirt surface. However, in the surroundings of the lagoon you will be walking on tarmac (in very poor condition). It is a medium-length stage, mostly uphill but without serious climbs. The environment consists of dry-farmed ﬁ elds of both olives and grain but livened up with the string of lagoons scattered along the way: Fuente de Piedra, the tiny Lobón and the deep Dulce. All of them enjoy the highest level of environmental protection given their natural value and the fragility of the ecosystems they sustain.

Highlights of this Stage The stage is highly recommended to learn not only about the large lagoons accessible by vehicle and visit the surrounding public-use infrastructure at Laguna Fuente de Piedra and Laguna Dulce. The Great Path of Malaga lets the walker see a different perspective of both lagoons and passes by a lesser-known lagoon of Lobón.

204 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga FUENTE DE PIEDRA • CAMPILLOS: Laguna de Fuente de Piedra, Lobón and Dulce 18

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 1 1 1 3 6.7 8.1 0.9 x 1

Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17

This small, isolated twin of Fuente de Piedra Lagoon, in the middle dry farmland, is easily accessible and will allow the traveller get close to the water which is difﬁ cult in other areas. It is paramount to remember that causing any harm to wildlife is illegal, and contradicts the spirit of the GR-249.

• Starting point: José Antonio Valverde • No return point: at farmhouse of la Rábita Visitor´s Centre to the Laguna de Fuente you will have reached half-way point of de Piedra Nature Reserve. the walk, but from that point onwards you • Access to starting point: from the A-92 are in little-travelled territory, inaccessible Seville-Granada, at the Fuente de Piedra to vehicles. When get to the Laguna the exit and following the signs to the visitor´s Lobón (km 12) you get the fi rst glimpse centre. of Campillos. If you come across serious problems and do not reach Lobón lagoon, • Finish point: Campillos, in the northeast, perhaps it is worthwhile returning to fi nd entering via Calle Alamo. the road. • Access to fi nish point: from Malaga on • Maps: The beginning of the stage the road which crosses the reservoir of the 1023-I (Humilladero), then turn to 1023-III Guadalteba, the A-357. From Antequera or (Bobadilla - Estación) for almost the entire Jerez, the A-384. From Sierra de Yeguas remaining walk. Finish point 1022-IV via the A-7279. (Campillos). • Possible “escape routes”: the only road • District boundries: Fuente de Piedra you will cross is at kilometre 8.3, the A-6213, boundaries until Cortijo de la Rábita. which comes from Sierra de Yeguas (on Antequera boundaries until the Loma of the right following the direction you will Lobón (km 11) and then Campillos district be walking) and connects with the A-384. until the end.

Birdwatchers at the José Antonio Valverde Visitor´s Centre

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 205202 5 18 FUENTE DE PIEDRA • CAMPILLOS: Laguna de Fuente de Piedra, Lobón and Dulce

• Enjoy the walk safely It’s quite a lonely path. Farmers pass by or not depending on the season, sometimes very frequently. Take care when farm vehicles pass by, and, on the stretch of asphalt, passenger cars. They never do so at very high speed though, given the state of the tarmac. Be careful when crossing the road from Sierra de Yeguas and, starting from there, there are stretches of track built without ditches and this One of the birdwatching hides of the Visitor´s Centre can make the surface very muddy. There is no possibility of stocking up on The only way to circle the whole lagoon water during this stage. is on the tarmac road. The same happens at • Connections to other footpaths and trails Laguna Dulce where there is a track circling In the Fuente de Piedra Lagoon Visitor´s the lake. Neither road is advertised as such. Centre there are two paths designed to let As for the traditional rights of way, you explore the nature reserve. Both leave the asphalted track is the old Camino de from the immediate vicinity of the viewpoint Campillos a Fuente de Piedra. The Cortijo of the Cerro del Palo. One of them, Las Albinas, de la Rábita is located at the road junction leads northwards, toward the ﬂ ood plains of between the old Vereda de Sierra de Yeguas the delta of Arroyo Santillan. The other path, to the north, the previously mentioned shorter and with wheel-chair access, leads to Camino, and Realenga of Carratraca which the viewpoints of Laguneto, Abejarucos and you will be walking along from this point. Laguna de las Palomas. This second route also At the Laguna Dulce you will be walking visits the area which has been reforested with the traditional Vereda del Pozuelo and native species. Las Monjas. THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

he only major stream is Las Tinajas, or less seasonal and is contributed to by which comes from the northwest as streams, connections with the underlying TArroyo del Boyero and ﬂ ows into the aquifer and the dimensions of the basin. Embalse de Guadalhorce. At the ford there There are two Nature Reserves, which is natural pool with some depth to it but it are afforded greatest environmental pro- is not surrounded with as many trees as it tection: the Nature Reserva of Laguna de should, with brambles and cattails taking Fuente de Piedra, which includes the area over the spot. The endorheic lagoons are and the lagoon of Lobón, and the Nature the aquatic stars of the day though. Their Reserve of Laguna of Campillos. The latter genesis is due to the existence of closed includes, among many others, La Laguna depressions which do not drain outside. The Dulce. Laguna de Fuente de Piedra is oblong amount of water that they maintain is more in shape, located 400 metres above sea

206 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga FUENTE DE PIEDRA • CAMPILLOS: Laguna de Fuente de Piedra, Lobón and Dulce 18

level207 and stretches from northeast to southwest direction on its longest side of over 6.5 km. The width is 2.5 km on average, which creates the dimension of the water surface of about 16 square kilometres. The lake is very shallow. A space of such

dimensions, whose protection is extended Salt marsh of Fuente de Piedra to the 1.365 has, has always attracted attention. In the past it was mostly the possibility of salt extraction and mining olive, and dry farmed crops that surround infrastructure has shaped the space, with the strict reserve. Touring the reserve is a perimeter channel built to dry and drain made comfortable by the network of five the streams. It harbours now tamarisks, viewpoints, two foot paths and the visitor´s cattails and rushes in the less saline waters. centre. There surroundings have been repo- In the most extreme environments, ve- pulated with oaks, hawthorns, mastic, black getation is reduced to the typically saline thorns, tree germander, carob trees, olive species: saltwort, glasswort and grass with a trees and other splendid species typical of very short life-cycle. Dikes and breakwaters the Mediterranean scrub. used from the ancient times to compartmen- The Lagoon of the Lobón, by contrast, is talize the water and facilitate evaporation very small, just 150 meters in diameter and often stay above the water level, and are is located at a higher altitude, about 460 used by Flamingos for nesting, constituting meters. Also, exposed to winds and sun, it the largest breeding colony of the Iberian harbours plenty of tamarisks on its shores, Peninsula. The lake tends to dry out com- especially facing the track, and some reeds pletely in summer, covered in a glistening and cattails. It is not uncommon to see ﬂ a- layer of salt. mingos here, along with herons, ducks and The landscapes enriched with sma- various waders. ller lakes (the Laguneto, Las Palomas and The Laguna Dulce, the second in size, is Abejarucos), patches of Holm oak and wild at 450 meters of altitude, the round-shaped surface covers 78 hectares with about 800 meters in diameter when full. At the opposite Visitors at the protected natural area walking along the GR end of the track there is a small recreational area and a birdwatching hide which can be reached easily on the track that leaves eastward and then turns west. The composition of its waters, as suggested by its name (“Dulce” meaning “sweet”), is less saline. It holds a good population of diving ducks, gulls and waders. The track reaches an area with more abundant vegetation, tamarisk, reeds and cattails, which blocks the view to the banks and the water surface.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 207 18 FUENTE DE PIEDRA • CAMPILLOS: Laguna de Fuente de Piedra, Lobón and Dulce

WALK DESCRIPTION

La Laguna de Fuente de Piedra Traditional crops and the reserve After the recommended visit to the José Antonio Valverde Centre, leave from the Mirador Cerro del Palo viewpoint, ignoring the two sign-posted footpaths, heading south. Flanked by two fences and dense forests of tamarisk, the pedestrian path ends abruptly in a track with no car access. The landscape opens up and you discover that usual surroundings of a lagoon: olives, some almond trees and crops of wheat, barley, sunfl ower and saffl ower. Typically there are a few wells surroundings of olive tree groves. There are here and there, a refuge for newts and frogs, a lot of side roads off the track to the left and tiny tool sheds with a fruit tree in front and to the right, the latter promising more in each small garden plot. viewpoints closer to the water however the This continues to km 1.5, to the end of sign-posting is insuffi cient. the dirt track and a level crossing at the La Realenga de Carratraca train line. Almost 7 km are covered on a Having passed the turn-off to el Cortijo (sometimes asphalted but not well maintai- Santa Teresa you reach the point you are ned) track which follows the distant edges closest to the southern end of the Laguna of the lagoon in the southwest direction. At de Fuente de Piedra, near the ruins of the the top of the Cerro de la Mora (4.4 km from Cortijo del Plata. Continue straight ahead the start and 450 meters above sea level) is leaving the reserve area behind and walking an exceptional view to the wetland and the slightly uphill. At km 8.3 pass a farmhouse called la Rábita on the right and the road to Immature Flamingos wading at the shore of a lagoon Sierra de Yeguas. A slight zigzag leads to a ford across Arroyo de las Tinajas where you start walking uphill. There are some small Holm oak woods here where the land is not suitable for agriculture. The walk takes you through high areas, leaving the Valley of the Arroyo of the Boyero (or Tinajas) to the north, and keeps following the Realenga de Carratraca direction. To the south there is a large ruined farmstead on top of a hillock, el Cortijo de las Monjas (km 9.2). Further ahead ignore on your right Camino a la Casa de las Cruces, one of the major branches off

208 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga FUENTE DE PIEDRA • CAMPILLOS: Laguna de Fuente de Piedra, Lobón and Dulce 18 the main track. The track becomes almost Although its waters are far away, at times a path in the most desolate grassland and multitude of species of birds can be seen continues on a slight rise. swimming or ﬂ ying over to other surrounding The Lagoons of Campillos wetlands and feeding areas. The highest point of the walk (475 m) The track connects with another one, in a before Campillos, in the Lomas de Lobón, better shape, westbound towards the village. provides a good view of the village just Then it forks, close to a metal turret with a before reaching the lagoon of Lobón (12 km), which is close to the right. Descend weather vane. Take the right fork, which passes a little further, ﬁ nd the next landmark: the by a pig farm and arrives at your destination, northern bank of Laguna Dulce (km 13.5). Campillos, at the Alamo Street.

The Laguna Dulce and the outline of the Central Limestone Arch in the background

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

1 Centro de Visitantes 30S 0345220 30S 0345455 José Antonio 420 m 2 End of track, start of road 415 m Valverde 4111022 4109713 3 Mirador en 30S 0343865 4 Extreme southern tip of 30S 0342546 La Mata/ La Mora, 450 m the Laguna en Piquitillos 425 m viewpoint 4107549 4105787 30S 0340580 5 Cortijo de la 30S 0341452 6 Cortijo de las Monjas, 430 m farmhouse 450 m Rábita, farmhouse 4104779 4104381 7 Mirador de 30S 0338243 30S 0337983 Campillos, 470 m 8 Laguna del Lobón 460 m viewpoint 4103456 4103280 30S 0337135 10 Campillos C/ Álamo, 30S 0334702 9 Laguna Dulce 460 m street 475 m 4102727 4102420

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 209 19 CAMPILLOS • EMBALSES: Lagunas de Campillos and the Embalses del Chorro

CAMPILLOS • CAMPILLOS (Embalses del Guadalhorce) 19 Lagunas de Campillos and the Embalses del Chorro ESTIMATED TIME 5 hours 15 minutes Altitude (m) Los Laguna Laguna Caimanes Arroyo del Cerro Prieto del Cerero de Capacete Boquerón 510 Laguna de Camuñas 485 Campillos Arroyo Cortijo del 460 del Chopo Capitán Cortijo 435 Rebollo Pantanos del 410 Guadalhorce- Guadalteba 385

360

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 Distance (km) LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 23 Accumulated ascent 255 Final altitude 360 Ascent km 7.8 Accumulated descent 360 Maximum altitude 515 Descent km 10.7 Maximum difference 160 Minimum altitude 355 Flat km 4.5 Altitude at starting point 475 Average altitude 435

Summary of this Stage Water is the central character of this stage, either as the string of endorheic lakes in the Natural Reserve of Campillos Lagoons or the splendid area of wetlands, where the Guadalhorce, Guadalteba and Conde de Guadalhorce reservoirs are located. The surroundings are quite flat, slightly inclined towards the water surface, and mainly composed of earthen hills with occasional limestone formations and outcrops, and a few spots of emerging gypsum. The walk heads south from Campillos, with some twists and turns to visit lagoons or avoid cultivated fields and some infrastructures towards the end. There is a succession of ascents and descents during the long 23 kilometres especially at the end. There are a couple of fairly steep slopes and a stretch of road.

Highlights of this Stage This stage adds to the previous ones by giving you an almost complete picture of the lagoons in the northern part of the province of Málaga. At this stage you will visit directly 3 of the lagoons which are protected as part of the Reserva Natural de las Lagunas de Campillos and a couple more, which are not included in the network of protected natural areas. The landscapes, colourful and unexpected amidst the dry ﬁ elds, are well worth the effort.

210 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga CAMPILLOS • EMBALSES: Lagunas de Campillos and the Embalses del Chorro 19

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 2 2 2 3 3.0 17.3 2.7 x 2

Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17

Next you arrive at the reservoir area, walking through the hills that separate the basin of the river Guadalhorce from the Guadalteba, crossing tributaries of both Arroyo Boquerón and Capitán respectively. The sandstone ridge planted with pine trees, which separates the Guadalteba reservoir to the west, and the Guadalhorce to the east, offers really picturesque views over the latter reservoir. The end of the stage, at the bridge that separates and unites at the same time the two vast sheets of water, could not be any more spectacular.

• Starting point: the southeast area of right. Another easily identified point Campillos, where Dr. Óscar Fernández is the junction of the A-357 with the and Baltasar Peña streets meet. road mentioned earlier (as it makes a • Access to starting point: the roads semi-circle which ends here). This point A-384, from the A-92 up to the level of is reached when you cross the Arroyo Antequera, and the A-357 which leads del Capitán, near a farmhouse. Then, to Málaga via Carratraca. as you wander through the pine wood, • Finish point: Guadalhorce and there is always a tarmac road you can Guadalteba reservoirs just before the reach by walking westwards. shared dam. • No return point: from the pine forest • Access to finish point: from Málaga of the hill Cerro de La Laguna de Panza the MA - 5403 road connecting Ardales onwards, turning back is not a good with Estación del Chorro. Then follow the idea. It is best to continue even though directions for the reservoirs (Pantanos) there is a hard ascent followed by a along a service road. There is an access long descent. from Campillos off the A-357 along • Maps: 1022-IV (Campillos) to locate the another reservoirs service road, the starting point only, then turn to 1023-III A-7286. (Bobadilla-Estación). The remaining half • Possible “escape routes”: The A-7286 is on map 1038-I (Pantano del Chorro). road that you cross at km 7.5 takes you • District boundries: you are within to Campillos in a few kilometres to the Campillos boundaries all day long.

Esparto grass ﬁ elds and stony patches beside the Great Path of Málaga

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 211212 1 19 CAMPILLOS • EMBALSES: Lagunas de Campillos and the Embalses del Chorro

• Enjoy the walk safely There are a couple of fords across Arroyos del Boquerón and Capitán, which do not pose a serious obstacle, given their meagre ﬂ ow. Another story is the level crossing lacking automated barriers across the Málaga-Seville train line. The section of the railroad tracks is completely straight, but in case of low visibility, it is advisable to look for an overpass towards the west Flamingos swimming in deep waters which means a detour of about two kilometres. Follow the A-7286 as it passes over the railroad line and then follow the track which will take Natural Reserve of the Lagunas de Campillos, you back to the other side of the level crossing. and it coincides in part with the GR. On the other hand, you will cross the A-7286 In terms of traditional public roads, up to road just after the level crossing and, parado- Cortijo de Cerero (km 5) you will be walking xically, it is the same road you will be walking along the old Camino de Campillos to Antequera, along for about two kilometres and a half until eastward. The section leading south continues reaching the track to Pinares de Rebolo. In all and connects later with Realenga de Carratraca, these above-mentioned cases you should take which leads up to Cortijo de Capacete (km extra precautions. There is not a single drinking 8.3). Earlier on, at the Laguna de Camuñas, water supply point during the whole stage, there is a junction with the Cañada Real de which, as you know, is quite long. Granada coming from the southwest, which then continues separately. From the point • Connections to other footpaths and trails where you cross Arroyo del Boquerón until There is a circular walk (not sign-posted) which arriving at Arroyo del Capitán, the path is enables you to get to know all of the sites of the called Camino a Cerro Prieto.

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

he Arroyo de Boquerón and the Arroyo de harsh environmental conditions that cause cycles Capitán are the two sole watercourses of of fl oods and drought, the relentless wind and Tthe stage, similar in a way, as both fl ow the saline nature of the soil. In those lagoons into the shallow ends of reservoirs; the fi rst one with extensive water surface and little depth fl ows into the Guadalhorce and the second into it is easy to observe thickets of tamarisk of the Guadalteba. Neither of them harbour any well- varying density, a plant which is a real specia- preserved galleried woods, only some tamarisk and list in this type of habitat. The bulrush require elm, and, above all, brambles, reeds and bulrushes. deeper water, which they conquer with their The vegetation perimeter around the lakes which thick runners, while the reeds colonize very can be visited by tourists has been strengthening extensive areas, at times reaching a tangled over time thanks to the lakes being protected. The mass of stems which potentially offers a good vegetation belt is very narrow though, due to the hideout for wildlife.

212 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga CAMPILLOS • EMBALSES: Lagunas de Campillos and the Embalses del Chorro 19

Flamingos can be easily observed during the season when they turn into resident birds at the lagoons, as well as the Purple Heron, various Egrets, Coots and Moorhens with their dark plumage which are the most abundant along with ducks. Finally, the waders wander along muddy shores deploying a whole repertoire of hunting Camuñas Lagoon seen from a hillock beside the road tactics. The reservoirs on the other hand battle reservoirs have settled as aquatic ecosystems with the problem of considerable differences as a result of human action which did not in water level so that the vegetation can particularly aim for this result. become non-existent in many areas: at the dam end of the reservoirs, on steep Although the track does not reach the inclines or on rocky ground, as you will see Gaitanejo reservoir, which is located below during this stage. At the tip of Guadalteba, the three dams, note that it maintains more Guadalhorce and Conde de Guadalhorce constant water levels thanks to being regu- reservoirs (especially at the latter two) there lated and thus it has managed to sustain a are dense clusters of tamarisk at the deltas diverse galleried wood with the tamarisk of the Guadalhorce and the Turón. The being the dominant tree. WALK DESCRIPTION

Las lagunas de Campillos Dry farmland and olive groves surround the Nature Reserve The walk follows the long street of Dr. of Camuñas Lagoon Óscar Fernández direction southeast, passing on the left some industrial buildings and on the right recently built housing estates. As it becomes a track, it leads east, veers slightly to follow Camino de Antequera in the area called Velasco and passes the farmhouse de la Rondana on the right (km 2.7). The fi rst lagoon, Laguna del Cerero, is passed on your right, and it is named after a nearby farm (km 5) where there is a major junction. At the junction take the track southwards. “herrizas” are frequent here in places where Dry, reddish-coloured farmland harbours bedrock has emerged. There aren´t many young olive groves, which are watered large oaks, if anything you can encoun- with a drip system during their fi rst years ter small woods of trees of the same size of growth. The uncultivated patches called and age, scrub, or fi elds of esparto grass.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 213 19 CAMPILLOS • EMBALSES: Lagunas de Campillos and the Embalses del Chorro

These islands of native vegetation on rocky crags Clay soil of various colours with the Sierra in the background lend greater diversity to the place and constitute a good refuge for many animals, some of them hunting species. Next the walker encounters the quite small basin of Camuñas lagoon. Then you reach two consecutive junctions, fi rst with the train tracks and then the A-7286. Next to the crossroads at the Cortijo de Capacete (km 7.5), to the west, there is the Capacete Lagoon, the last one of the protected lagoons within the nature reserve. It is a good sized one, similar in size to Cerero, so both are able to retain water well into the summer. Passing the Hoyo del la Alberca on the right and the Llano de Farfán on the left the track boasted a productive olive grove some time climbs a small hill (km 11), called Cerrete de los ago, but now the trees are mixed with gorse, Caimanes which is planted with almond trees. cistus, broom and thyme on a hill exposed After descending and leading along successive to the winds. When you begin the descent, tracks the walk takes you to the plain where the Panza Lagoon is struggling to survive; it the landscape changes to mountains and is one of the smallest and shallowest ones. farmland hills of different shades until you arrive at the Arroyo del Capitán, which fl ows Arroyos de Boquerón and Capitán on the side of a road again. Following a little stony path along slo- Pine woods and Reservoirs pes of dense planted woods of Aleppo pine on the left, arrive at the fi rst ford across the Follow the A-7286 road for about two and Boquerón Stream, which shouldn´t pose too a half kilometres, ignoring two junctions on many problems. What comes next is a steep the left (the fi rst goes to Parque de Guadalteba slope through an olive grove up the elongated and the second is a small service road which summit of the Cerro Prieto (km 13.5), which you leads to the dam end of the reservoirs, which follow to the right until you reach a dirt track are the fi nal destination later in the stage). At which turns westwards. This area must have the km marker 17.5 the tarmac ends. There are two farmsteads in this section; the fi rst one is Cortijo de Rebolo on the right. Enter Guadalhorce reservoir, the distant view of your destination the pine forest, which keeps getting denser and the trees become more exuberant with every metre. Undergrowth appears little by little, however the best area to catch a glimpse of what the biodiversity must have been like here, is the sandstone rock which has not been reforested. As you ascend in a zigzag to the threshing circle and the ruins of El Chopo farm (km 20.5), note the interesting scrubland of thyme, buckthorn, Mediterranean

214 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga CAMPILLOS • EMBALSES: Lagunas de Campillos and the Embalses del Chorro 19

Dwarf Palm and Esparto grass thriving in the shelter of a few rocks. There are a couple of places from where you have a good panoramic view of the Reservoir of Guadalhorce; one of them is the threshing circle at the second farmhouse. Walk downhill by a prehistoric cave dwelling and reach a crossroads where you abandon the dirt track and take a path. Shortly before an area with broad views where the path twists there is another ruin which had been built in a natural hole in the ground, saving the labour of having Bridge joining the Guadalhorce and Guadalteba reservoirs to build higher walls. You can still see the various strata of lime and azulina. The path follows the contours and the level of the lake the hill which separates the Guadalhorce and which is getting closer, but it is best to keep the Guadalteba reservoirs and reach the end walking a few metres at this level until you of the stage just at the point where two dams reach the road again. Here you can abandon of these twin reservoirs meet.

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

1 Campillos 30S 0334702 30S 0338496 Óscar Fernández 475 m 2 Mirador Laguna 486 m street 4102420 del Cerero, viewpoint 4100896 30S 0338764 30S 0338284 3 Laguna de 465 m 4 Level crossing 460 m Camuñas 4099889 4099371 30S 0337853 30S 0338479 5 Detour to la 470 m 6 Cerro de los Caimanes, 500 m Laguna de Capacete 4098589 hill with almond trees 4096537 30S 0338926 30S 0338351 7 Cerro de la Laguna 475 m 8 Arroyo del Boquerón, 435 m de Panza, hill 4095689 stream 4095156 30S 0337135 30S 0336952 9 Puerto de 500 m 10 Arroyo del Capitán and 380 m Cerro Prieto, pass 4102727 the lake/reservoir road 4093865 11 Inicio del Carril 30S 0338910 12 Cortijo de Rebolo, 30S 0339495 de Rebolo, start of 375 m farmhouse 400 m the dirt track 4093203 4092600 30S 0340005 30S 0340115 13 Cortijo del Chopo, 425 m 14 Cave dwelling 395 m farmhouse 4091555 4091023 30S 0339499 16 Dam end of the 30S 0339794 15 Bridge between 360 m Guadalhorce and Guadalteba 360 m two lakes 4090191 Reservoirs 4089821

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 215 VI Paraje Natural Desﬁ ladero de los Gaitanes

The Gaitanejo reservoir, in the background the Guadalhorce and scattered tafonis holes and sandstone arches La Gran Senda de Málaga in the Arco góticoParaje y tafonis en Natural el Gaitanejo Desﬁ ladero de los Gaitanes

araje Natural, the Natural Area of of rocks: sandstone and calcareous conglo- Desfi ladero de los Gaitanes, was created merate, located below the dams. It harbours Pin the year 1989 protecting 2016 hectares remarkable riparian vegetation and there are at the western end of the Central Limestone cave dwellings below the ledge. Arch. The limestone layers stacked vertically In this fi rst section of the Paraje numerous during the Alpine formation have become a plant and animal species exist, notably the major obstacle to the circulation of the rivers, large raptors and plants with limited distri- which had to manage to avoid the two crags via bution such as Rupicapnos africana. But the two gorges. These are Gaitanes, two sections Natural Area does not only consist of the of gorges over 800 meters long with walls up gorges, accessible through the Caminito del to 350 metres high. In between, the valley Rey. The Great Path of Malaga is responsible widens into so-called La Hoya and the river for opening up other landscapes to the hiker. twists until it meets the second rocky mass at The fi rst section of the walk circles the great 300 meters high and several hundred metres mass of las Sierras Llana, Valle Abdalajís and long. Although it is wider and shorter that the the Huma, the latter is the highest. Karstic upper gorge, this second gorge´s formations modelling is the main attraction, with nu- are much more spectacular as its strata are merous cliffs, some of them very large. In completely vertical. The Caminito del Rey general, the planted woods of Aleppo pine walkway winds around to fi t the protruding trees dominate the landscape at the beginning and recessing rock. The representative areas and at the end, near the dams, but summits of the Tres Techos and el Recodo can be and sierras hold a wide range of vegetation considered as synonyms of the name the with the outstanding Phoenician Juniper Gaitanes. The Gaitanejo, on the other hand, (Juniperus phoenicea) forming extensive is a small gorge excavated in a different set thickets between the sinkholes and torcales.

216 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga Paraje Natural Desﬁ ladero de los Gaitanes VI

The Griffon Vulture and the Spanish Ibex are to understand the name El Chorro that refers the most easily observed animals in the rocky to the entire area and the train station, one cliffs. In the northern part and, above all, in should go back to the 19th century, when the west of the Paraje Natural you can fi nd the dam had not even been built. The river sandstone and calcareous conglomerate Guadalhorce from the north, Guadalteba from from the upper Miocene of the Tertiary era. the west and Turón from the south converged These are straw-coloured sedimentary rocks at the entrance of the fi rst gorge, Gaitanejo, which darken quite a bit as they weather, and carved out in the sandstone rock. During heavy show a soft modelling where fl uvial cuts and rainfall, a common occurrence in the mountains different sized holes appear, forming caves, of Málaga, the water accumulated in the shelters, tafonis and alveoli. The susceptibility narrow gully just before the fi rst Gaitanes of the rocks to weathering and the inclusion gorge and then the same thing happened of clay pebbles or other soft materials make at the second gorge, a kilometre and a half the landscape of the Sierra de Almorchón an down the river. The output on the other side attraction on its own. It is this type of varied had such momentum and caused such uproar surroundings that stage 21 passes through; because of the released water pressure that you walk among Aleppo pines, reservoirs, and the inhabitants of the area named the place superb archaeological fi ndings such as the El Chorro (The Jet) and it was much feared rock shrine and the walled town of Bobastro. due to its devastating effects on crops and The main features of the upcoming two properties downstream. stages are the reservoirs, a total of 6, all very This has all changed in a very short time different yet very close to one another. In order period, given that the area was no longer inaccessible when the train line was built, La Hoya between upper and lower gorges (lower one in the photo) connecting Malaga with Córdoba through the of los Gaitanes with the river Guadalhorce and the train line Bobadilla (Antequera) hub of train connections. The work was divided into three phases, the two close to both province capitals, quite easy to accomplish on level terrain, and then the phase located here, which took somewhat longer to complete. In 1865 the work was fi nished and next it required the construction of numerous bridges (some of them very beautiful) and many tunnels cutting through the entire sierra. The two train stops, one located to the north, Gobantes, and to the south, El Chorro, are the results of a more expensive undertaking: crossing the Central Limestone Arch from both ends. As for the reservoirs, the Conde de Guadalhorce was the fi rst to be inaugurated by King Alfonso 13th, in the spring of 1921. The service road called Los Balconcillos, the pipeline (1905) and reservoir itself (1917) made such an impression on the King that he established

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 217 VI Paraje Natural Desﬁ ladero de los Gaitanes

Condado de Guadalhorce (county) in the name of the chief engineerRafael Benjumea. In 2014 the Diputación de Málaga began the restoration of the so-called Caminito del Rey to make it accessible to the public safely. However the dam itself is not far behind as far as beautiful architecture is concerned, with its double arcade of masonry resulting from additional works done in 1944. Both constructions are very close to the beginning of stage 20 and a vantage point allows you to see the whole complex. The reservoirs of the Guadalhorce and Guadalteba were fi nished in 1966 and are In the Gaitanes gorge located at highest altitude of the complex before the gorge. As far as the waterfalls or spillways (saltos de agua) are concerned, large gallery that perforates the rock of the Salto of El Chorro started working in the year fi rst gorge along its right margin. Between 1904, at the outlet of the Desfi ladero de los the fi rst and second gorge there is a spacious Gaitanes, and the project engineer himself, valley called La Hoya. A train tunnel used to Rafael Benjumea, designed the Salto de come out to the outside of the rocks here and Gaitanejo in 1924. The Contraembalse of then ran along a deep disused channel. Then Tajo de la Encantada, at lower altitude, and it penetrated the rock walls of the Cerro del its complementary Villaverde reservoir began Cristo. It is now completely underground and working in 1978. These last two are further then comes out and must cross to the other down the gorge. side of los Gaitanes, given the location of the The afore-mentioned Gaitanejo reservoir electricity plant at the eastern margin of the collects water which circulates through a Guadalhorce. That is the bridge that can be seen from El Chorro passing through the thin air, an aqueduct which is accessed through los Curious shapes caused by alveolar (honeycomb) erosion on the sandstones of the Pico Capilla Balconcillos, later renamed as Caminito del Rey. The water, after a signifi cant fall of about 100 meters achieved using 2.6 kilometres long hydraulic conduct, enters the turbines of the Central Eléctrica Nuevo Chorro, at the end of the lower reservoir, called Contraembalse. Another reservoir, and a really spectacular one, is responsible for the second waterfall, in the east, with the potential energy of 350 metres of altitude within a little over 1 kilometre of reinforced piping; a structure that the Great Path takes you to at the beginning of the ascent to the Mesas de Villaverde. In reality, the upper reservoir or Presa de

218 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga Paraje Natural Desﬁ ladero de los Gaitanes VI

Villaverde works as a battery, accumulating the energy generated by the water pressure to be used during peak demand periods and taking advantage of low demand time to release the pressure avoiding overloading. From the penstock you can perfectly see the central hydroelectric plant, La Central Hidroeléctrica del Tajo de la Encantada, entering the reservoir. The plant’s turbines are15 fl oors below the water level and always receive the same amount of fl ow. The large surge shaft placed where the pipeline runs underground, acts to balance and minimize Erosion causes smooth wavy patterns in the sandstone the water hammer effect. This method had rock and hollows used as temporary shelter been needed before the use of reinforced high pressure pipelines. The electric substation of the Tajo de region of Guadalhorce. Under the dam of the la Encantada is located downstream at the Contraembalse of the Tajo de la Encantada lower reservoir, about two kilometres from there are some sand trap interceptors for the the dam on the left bank of the Guadalhorce. fi rst irrigation channel which starts here, and From some points of the route, it is possible then it is followed by many others downstream to have a good view of the reservoir and the on both banks of the river. The capital of the substation which forms part of a set of 5 province also receives drinking water from substations, two more in the Guadalhorce and the hydraulic complex, which used to have two more in the Rio Grande; this substation a slightly salty taste due to a contributing is still the main hydroelectric resource of water spring coming from a gypsum deposit, the province. which was later sealed. The other function of the reservoirs Sports, tourism, and environmental impli- is to regulate the irrigation water in the cations of the Paraje Natural began from the moment the area became accessible through Rock-dwelling plants and people use the rock the Caminito del Rey. It was the rock climbers overhangs for shelter from Málaga who have prepared a large number of climbing routes at all diffi culty levels and hundreds of metres high in some cases. This gave El Chorro international recognition, with the added value of its good climate. The Great Malaga Path allows you to visit some of these places. Walking has been gaining new enthusiasts with the suggested itineraries along the GR-249; the ascent to the Huma and the Gaitanejo footpath as main features. But water sports and sport fi shing in the three northernmost reservoirs are the most popular activities, along with increasingly signifi cant birdwatching.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 219 20 EMBALSES DEL GUADALHORCE • ESTACIÓN DE EL CHORRO

CAMPILLOS (Embalses del Guadalhorce) 20 • ÁLORA (Estación de El Chorro) El Paraje Natural – the Natural Area of Desﬁ ladero de los Gaitanes ESTIMATED TIME 6 hours 5 minutes Altitude (m) Cortijo Fuente de Campano la Viuda 830 Mirador Valle Miradores Zonas de Salto de Paraje Natural escalada del Guadalhorce 730 la Zorra Mirador del Puerto de Cortijo de las Pedreras Vegetación Sabinar Ramos 630 autóctona 530 Mirador Estación Embalses del del Chorro 430 Guadalhorce Estación del Chorro 330

230 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 Distance (km) LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 22 Accumulated ascent 680 Final altitude 225 Ascent km 8.6 Accumulated descent 802 Maximum altitude 845 Descent km 9.6 Maximum difference 620 Minimum altitude 225 Flat km 3.8 Altitude at starting point 360 Average altitude 560

Summary of this Stage Paraje Natural Desﬁ ladero de los Gaitanes is a mid mountain area characterized by limestone sierras and hills of sandstone on both sides of the Guadalhorce river in the area known as El Chorro. The proposed route starts northwards from the meeting point of the Guadalteba and the Guadalhorce dams, ascends parallel to the latter and skirts the mass of the Sierra de Huma, culminating at a pass located at 845 metres above sea level, then gradually turning east. During the descent you will keep veering gradually towards the south and then west, with the so-called Placas Frontales to your right, from which point the track leads in a precipitous descent to a forest of planted Aleppo Pine. The end of this stage is 140 metres lower than the start, at the train station of El Chorro, where train line infrastructures meet those of the reservoir and the central power station of the Tajo de la Encantada. Throughout the walk, there are numerous cliffs where it is common to see climbers, some of the rock faces are quite large and close to the track. Both at the beginning and at the end of the stage you are very close to the famous Caminito del Rey, originally a service access to the electricity plant. Restoration works of the Caminito began in 2014 to adapt it for the public. Stage 20 is long and there are some major ascents and descents.

220 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga El Paraje Natural – the Natural Area of Desﬁ ladero de los Gaitanes 20

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage diffi culty required 2 2 2 4 1.7 20.3 0 NO Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17 Highlights of this Stage The Sierra de Huma (place name perhaps deriving from Umar Ibn Haffsum, whose stronghold of Bobastro is very close to the protected Natural Area) is the western bastion of the Central Limestone Arch and stands out dramatically in the landscape, especially against the fl at Guadalhorce Valley. This makes the walk, which fl anks this entire sierra, almost a full circle and rich in numerous viewpoints which have been assigned GPS points. You have spectacular views over the area of the three reservoirs, the fi rst gorge of the Desfi ladero de los Gaitanes, the Vega de Antequera, the slopes of the Sierra de Huma, the Guadalhorce Valley and the area of El Chorro. An important focal point here is the protection of an area such as the Paraje Natural. The other is certainly geology, with the diversity of limestone, dolomites, sandstones, and a geological modelling so powerful that it has resulted in the name of Desfi ladero which means gorge. The abundance of gorges has made the area of El Chorro into the biggest climbing school in the South of Spain. In the north of the Paraje Natural note the exceptionally dense and extensive thickets of Savin juniper. Very close to the maximum altitude of the route are the Roman ruins of Nescania, barely recognizable but of great strategic importance because of their location in the most obvious natural passage between the Guadalhorce Valley and the plains of Antequera.

• Starting point: reservoirs of the Guadalhorce a tarmac track along its left bank leading to the and the Guadalteba, where both dams meet. starting point. However, once you are at the • Access to starting point: From A-357 road highest point of the stage, the best option is between Campillos and Ardales take the A-7286 walking down the track to kilometre marker 16 then exit, following the signs to Pantanos on an to the Valle de Abdalajís. unmarked road. Coming from Ardales take the • No return point: from the Cortijo Campano it is MA-5403 to the Puerto de la Atalaya. There, the best to keep moving forward. described service road leads to the reservoirs. • Maps: Virtually the entire route is on 1038-I Take the road leading downhill, the MA-4400, (Pantano del Chorro), except for the ﬁ nal stretch to get to El Chorro. of the pine forest which you will find on the • Finish point: the train stop at the Estación de 1038-III (Ardales). El Chorro. • District boundries: up to km 4.2 (at the transformer • Access to finish point: from the Puerto de and electricity towers) you are in the district of Campillos. Then it is all Antequera to kilometre la Atalaya, access as described above. From 16.2, along tracks which afford some view to the Álora, take the A-343 and turn off at the Valle Valle de Abdalajís. You do not enter the boundaries de Abdalajís to follow the MA-4401 or directly of the latter village because Antequera district is from the MA-3401. shaped in a strange little wedge enveloping the • Possible “escape routes”: in the ﬁ rst section district of Valle de Abdalajís entirely. The last part the “escape plan” is clear: down the network of the track of Cortijo de las Pedreras farmhouse of tracks to the dam of Guadalhorce. There is and the pine forest belong to the district of Álora.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 221 20 EMBALSES DEL GUADALHORCE • ESTACIÓN DE EL CHORRO

• Enjoy the walk safely The total of ascents and descents, the length of the route, the walk´s altitude and its solitude require planning this stage in detail. The road at the beginning of the stage has very little traffi c but it is narrow and sometimes offers little visibility. There is no possibility of stocking up on drinking Views over the reservoirs Guadalhorce and Guadalteba during water. The water from the Fuente de la Viuda spring the fi rst steps of the stage has not been treated for consumption. The area of pine forest is very dense. Also, here you must take extra precautions to prevent forest fi res. You At km 10, on the right, there is a junction will cross the Arroyo del Chorro stream bed twice, with Camino de Sierra Llana which leads uphill but it is so unlikely that it will contain any water to an area of dense Savin juniper and planted that there was no need to mark these crossings pine woods. Five hundred meters ahead you as fords on the corresponding icon of this stage. start walking along the very steep Camino • Connections to other footpaths and trails del Cortijo del Madroño, until kilometre 12.5 where this Camino branches off to your right Relatively close by, at the dam end of the (the farmhouse is a little further up). Head for Conde de Guadalhorce reservoir, there are a couple of paths which have been adapted for the Cortijo Campano. walking and which lead along the edge of Embalse From km 14.5 km you will be walking along del Gaitanejo reservoir and some sandstone the Vereda del Tajo de la Pedrera. Ignore the areas. These paths are highly recommended track which leads towards the Valle de Abdalajís, and comfortable. called Camino de los Peñascales, which doesn´t This stage has been designed using the belong to the Great Path of Málaga. The best network of service paths for the management known public path here is the Camino de las of the protected Natural Area and livestock or Pedreras, leading from the Cortijo under the forestry farms. These tracks coincide, most of the same name up to the Estación de El Chorro. time, with the limits of the Paraje Natural and That route is also described on an information are well-known stomping grounds for cyclists panel at the train stop as Haza del Río. One of attracted by the easily accessed, mountainous the most frequented walks used to climb the circular route. Huma is called Escalera Árabe (Arab staircase). It splits off in the area of las Pedreras at Gaitanejo reservoir´s stable water levels sustain kilometre 18, westwards and then northwards. well-preserved riparian vegetation In this same section, between kilometre markers 16.2 and 22, our walk meets the GR-7 E-4 coming from the east. This is stage 7 of GR-7 E-4, slightly over 10 kilometres long and named El Chorro - Abdalajís. The middle part of Stage 20, in any case, is certain to have coincided with the path that had been used from the Neolithic period to link the Guadalhorce Valley with the Vega de Antequera by the Puerto del Rosalejo pass.

222 GR-249GR-249 GranGran SendaSenda dede MálagaMálaga El Paraje Natural – the Natural Area of Desﬁ ladero de los Gaitanes 20

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

rom the very start of the stage the re- Planted pine woods envelop the dams of the two reservoirs servoirs of the Embalse del Guadalhorce Fand Guadalteba are the main attraction. The reservoirs meet at the bridge which is also the fi nish point of the previous stage. The two dams can be seen from different points of the route, especially from the viewpoints at km 3, where you can also enjoy the view to the reservoir of the Conde del Guadalhorce and of the Turón river, located slightly further down (about 25 metres). The meeting of the three dams occurs in less than one kilometre in a straight line, which produces such a dramatic effect of The main part of stage 20 takes you into heavily amassed water that most visits to this karstifi ed landscape, which makes water circulation natural expanse focus around this area. on the surface hardly possible, mainly occurring Below the dams, you can also catch a during heavy rain seasons. It is a phenomenon glimpse of a sinuous, milky green river course. some authors have denominated karst desert, Its colour comes from the gypsum and clay due to the harsh water conditions generated by sediments sifting into the water at the river these eroded calcareous rocks. The Savin juniper, source upstream. This is the river Guadalhorce, forming extensive thickets here, must be recognised which engulfs the other two smaller rivers as a specialist plant in this type of environment in the area of the reservoir of the Gaitanejo. which makes this species all the more important. The Embalse del Gaitanejo harbours prolifi c The only water spring along the way is at vegetation on its banks as its water level is kilometre 14.750; you need to pay close attention more constant. There are some interesting to fi nd it as it is a little remote. To get to the Fuente patterns carved in the sandstone rock by de la Viuda and nearby Cortijo de la Rejanada the water, including a few cave dwellings. follow the main track for a few metres rather than following the walk which circles around Unusual shapes of Aleppo pines and slopes of the the place. The reason why the water spring Huma with Savin juniper thickets, seen from the fi rst vantage points of the walk emerges here, are the impermeable clay layers at the mountain pass which expel the water circulating underground via drainage galleries formed by karst. The importance of this water source since time immemorial is confi rmed by the existence of the nearby ruins of Nescania. At the end of the stage the walker is reunited with the Guadalhorce river at a new reservoir, Tajo de la Encantada, which regulates the fl ow but is also used to generate electricity.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 223 20 EMBALSES DEL GUADALHORCE • ESTACIÓN DE EL CHORRO

WALK DESCRIPTION

The impressive los Gaitanes cliffs and in the background The Viewpoints of the Paraje Natural reserve Mesa de Villaverde with a chimney on top After a kilometre and a half of service road leading along the banks of the Guadalhorce reservoir and quite near the quarries where aggregate composites were extracted for the construction of the reservoirs, the track turns right. Forest tracks are closed to car traffi c as they lead uphill between Aleppo pines. In shady areas at high altitudes but also here and there amidst the pine trees, the native vegetation appears, struggling to regain its place. Good-sized Holm oaks, Junipers and Los Tajos Terebinth at times form small woods with the Next you reach a great plain (km 4.5), la undergrowth of Mastic, Gorse, Buckthorn, Savin Cornicabra, with initial stages of reforestation Juniper and Kermes oak, giving you an idea of and an extensive area of Thyme which is used the ancient splendour of the forest. by bees from the nearby hives. The road comes Soon you reach a part of the track that to a mountain pass which is a natural passage affords a broad view of the entire complex way between two rocky escarpments. It leads of El Chorro, the Sierras of western Málaga along a power line which you encounter fi rst and the beginning of the first gorge of the at the border of Antequera and Campillos Desfi ladero de los Gaitanes. Higher up, from districts. The lower cliff is facing north and an area with compelling underbrush of Esparto the higher one west, and both are famous as grass, Rosemary, and Cistus under the pine climbing areas due to the excellent quality of trees which have been contorted by the wind, the rock and the many overhangs. The place you can see in all its grandeur the magnifi cent is known as Desplomilandia (Overhang land) Savin Juniper forest of the Arroyo of Todosaires and the rock face above is called El Triángulo and the northern slopes of the Sierra de Huma. after the shape of the rock with some cattle corrals at the base. One of the most interesting vegetation formations of The walk has been taking you northwards the stage are the forests of Savin Juniper so far. The track leads downhill now and you pass by a junction to your left (km 6). Then you begin a long climb eastwards across a seriously deforested hillside above the impressive Tajo del Cabrito. This rocky escarpment is a truly insurmountable obstacle both for people and animals, hundreds of meters high and two kilometres long. At the Puerto de Ramos, 7 and a half kilometres into the stage you can engage in an enjoyable exercise of

224 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga El Paraje Natural – the Natural Area of Desfi ladero de los Gaitanes 20 trying to imagine the tops of the high cliffs by examining the nearby karst formations on your left: rock pinnacles and piles of rock plates similar to the ones found at El Torcal de Antequera. The Savin Juniper grows in the narrow passages. In comparison, the slope on the right, a result of hillside landslides, has a less rugged appearance. You start descending now, accompanied by the view to the plains of Antequera. The path is immersed in a very dense thicket of Savin Junipers, which has an appearance of a forest A fl at area replanted with conifers and overtaken by herbs but is composed of shrub-sized plants. Pass by two junctions on the left and a fl at area which is sometimes ploughed to be sown. (km 9.5). Camino del Cortijo el Madroño, which goes The path gradually veers southwest. A few through a rocky valley fl oor with another cliff meters ahead there is a detour that leads in to the right, the Salto de la Zorra. The climb a zigzag to the Sierra Llana. becomes easier and takes you eastwards by Across limits of the Paraje Natural the Cortijo de Campano farmhouse, located in a Here the most physically demanding section cultivated area, contrasting strangely with the of stage 20 starts. From kilometre 10 to 13 wild surroundings. Ahead, there are excellent you need to conquer a continuous 300 meter views of the gorse-covered 1186 metre high climb. You will pass a junction on the left, Pico Capilla.

Around the summit Esparto grass and cistus bushes prevail, amongst scattered Aleppo pines

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 225222 5 20 EMBALSES DEL GUADALHORCE • ESTACIÓN DE EL CHORRO

Oaks and Savin junipers in the nooks of the karstic relief of limestone cliffs

The maximum altitude reached during the El Camino de los Pedregales stage is at the Puerto del Rosalejo pass, where As the path arrives at the district boun- the Roman city of Nescania was founded, at daries of Álora (km 16.2), it connects with kilometre 14 and 845 metres above sea level. the GR-7 E-4 and assumes a south-west From here the walk descends turning gradually direction. La Pedrera farmstead, a group of southwards. On the left, away from the path, houses between olive groves at the foot of there are the Fuente de la Viuda natural spring the sierra, has a network of dirt tracks which and the Cortijo de la Rejanada farmhouse. The you keep following up to the pine forest of maximum altitude of these mountains is at the Arroyo del Chorro. Similarly to other the grey limestone summit of Huma (1,191 m) reforested areas, the purpose of the pine which the walk skirts around. In the area there wood is to prevent the siltation process of are a few farmhouses below the path: Tajo del wetlands by strengthening the rocky slopes. Palmito, Castillo and the Peñascales, which Now, and virtually until the end of the stage, lends its name to the road that comes from the track enters the limits of the protected the Valle de Abdalajís, from the MA-4401 road. Natural Area, the Paraje Natural. The track is steep and it levels out with The inlet (tail end) of the Guadalhorce reservoir dominates the landscape to the north of the walk the ﬁ rst bends at the beginning of Escalera Árabe (km 18) and a second more pronounced zigzag where you have a broad view of the area of El Chorro settlement, Las Mesas de Villaverde and the ﬁ rst part of the next stage. There are remarkable sheer cliffs that the track passes to the right. Aid (sport) climbing and classic climbing are done on the rock faces. The sector is known among climbers as the

226 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga El Paraje Natural – the Natural Area of Desﬁ ladero de los Gaitanes 20 low, medium and high Frontales (Bajas, Medias and Altas and contains a legendary cave route called Poema Roca (The Rock Poem). The track enters pine woods almost devoid of any shrub vegetation due to its density, and then crosses the ravine twice in areas protected by retaining walls. First houses appear, then you arrive at the little neighbourhood where Puerto de Ramos; a Savin juniper forest developing in the passage ways of the “little El Torcal” you can wander a while through its streets and arrive at the end of Stage 20.

the steep slopes of the halfway point of the stage, followed by high cliffs

during the ascent to the highest point of the walk, looking east to the Pico Capilla summit

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

30S 0339794 30S 0340796 1 Reservoirs of Guadalhorce 360 m 2 Turn off the service road 400 m and Guadalteba 4089821 4090311 30S 0340910 30S 0340736 3 Native vegetation and 505 m 4 Three reservoirs viewpoint 530 m shelter zone 4089905 4089750 30S 0340769 30S 0341778 5 Paraje Natural Desﬁ ladero 555 m 6 Viewpoint to Savin Junipers at 575 m de los Gaitanes, viewpoint 4089713 Tajo de Ballesteros 4089926 30S 0341894 8 Puerto de Ramos and 30S 0343355 7 Puerto and climbing area 535 m 570 m of Desplomilandia 4090899 “Torcal” karst formations 4091694 30S 0345130 30S 0344600 9 Salto de la Zorra 600 m 10 Mirador del Pico Convento y 835 m 4090215 Antequera, viewpoint 4089518 30S 0344804 30S 0345437 11 Cortijo Campano, 830 m 12 Puerto del Rosalejo and the 845 m farmhouse 4089326 detour to Nescania Roman ruins 4089277 13 Fuente de la Viuda 30S 0346196 14 Cortijo de las Pedreras, 30S 0345379 spring and Cortijo de la 805 m 640 m Rejanada farm 4088985 farmhouse 4087512 15 Junction to 30S 034641 16 Ford across Arroyo 30S 0343731 Escalereta Árabe, 560 m 330 m Arab staircase 4087023 del Chorro 4086436 30S 033261 17 Estación de 255 m El Chorro, station 4086029

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 227 21 ESTACIÓN DEL CHORRO • ARDALES

ÁLORA (Estación de El Chorro) • ARDALES 21 The sandstones of the Sierra de Almorchón, Bobastro and Ardales Cave ESTIMATED TIME 4 hours 30 minutes Altitude (m) Contraembalse Mirador del Arroyo de Mirador de la Encantada Paraje Natural Arroyo del la Fuenfría 580 Ermita de de Ardales Bobastro Granado 530 480 Tajo de Ardales Arenisca Museo 430 Municipal 380 Mirador de la Tubería 330 Estación 280 del Chorro 230 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 Distance (km) LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 16.5 Accumulated ascent 635 Final altitude 385 Ascent km 6.5 Accumulated descent 485 Maximum altitude 595 Descent km 7.3 Maximum difference 375 Minimum altitude 220 Flat km 2.7 Altitude at starting point 255 Average altitude 470

Summary of this Stage This stage has a very comfortable length and it leads direction south-west to north-east. It is marked by an initial uphill section of over 375 meters of elevation along 3 kilometres along a somewhat stony path that leads to the Mesas de Villaverde, the highest point of the stage. Then the walk takes you downhill along the road to the area of Las Viñas which is hilly with hardly any vegetation, peppered with ﬁ sh farm buildings and holiday homes; it is solely altered by the conical calcareous hill where the Cueva de Ardales cave is located. These hills constitute the right bank of the river Guadalhorce, which runs 350 metres below and the track keeps leading away from it at an altitude oscillating around 500 meters. Half of the stage´s walk uses dirt tracks in good walking condition; there are three sections of tarmac. Mesas de Villaverde is climbed along a footpath.

Highlights of this Stage The diversity of landscape during the walk is astounding, as the path takes you to various vantage points overlooking the Paraje Natural Desﬁ ladero de los Gaitanes, El Chorro, el Valle del Guadalhorce, La Sierra del Agua and Ardales plus the Turón river valley. The hydroelectric power station of Contraembalse del Tajo de la Encantada and the Presa de Villaverde are worth the effort you will need to get from one to the other walking along a reinforced pipe which connects them.

228 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga The sandstones of the Sierra de Almorchón, Bobastro and Ardales Cave 21

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 1 2 2 3 5.3 8.2 3.0 x 1

Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17

Very few walks present a similar opportunity to interact with two historical and archaeological sites of such importance as the Mozarabic ruins of Bobastro, founded by the ineffable Umar Ibn Hafsún, and the Ardales cave (also called Doña Trinidad Grund´s cave who was the person responsible for preparing the cave for visitors as an addition to the thermal baths of Carratraca). The cave had been occupied from the upper Palaeolithic, was subsequently blocked off and then rediscovered in 1821 as a result of an earthquake which uncovered the entrance again. More than 50 cave paintings and engravings it contains represent ﬁ gures of animals, abstract motifs and symbols, even the silhouette of human hands depicted using an airbrush technique.

• Starting point: station of El Chorro. where there are the Contraembalse • Access to starting point: from de la Encantada and a Venta (an inn). Ardales, along a paved track off the • No return point: once you have forded MA-4401road. From Álora and Ardales, the Arroyo del Granado it is better the MA-5403. to continue until Ardales, since with • Finish point: Municipal Museum of every step there are more houses and the Village of Ardales. the track becomes gradually more • Access to finish point: Ardales is accessible to any vehicle. on a detour from the A-357 Málaga- • Maps: The entire route is mapped on Campillos road. From El Burgo it is 1038-III (Ardales) sheet. reachable by the mountain roads that • District boundries: the district of follow the Turón river: the MA-5401 Álora reaches the kilometre point 1.2, and MA-5402. at the end of the initial stretch of road. • Possible “escape routes”: the best Then you are walking in Ardales district place would be the Mesas de Villaverde, until the end of this stage.

The walkway known as Caminito del Rey entering the Desﬁ ladero de los Gaitanes, as seen in 2014 before renovation works began

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 229222 9 21 ESTACIÓN DEL CHORRO • ARDALES

• Enjoy the walk safely The viewpoint placed along the penstock (reinforced high-pressure pipe structure) does not have any railings to prevent falls, and potentially could be the most dangerous spot of the whole stage. Take great care looking out if you do walk along it. Roads at the beginning and at the end of the

stage usually do not have much traffi c, but the The outlet of the Gorge of Guadalhorce river out of the Desfi ladero hard shoulder is narrow or lacking. The entrance had been known before it was dammed and regulated at El Chorro to Ardales does have much more traffi c. The rest of the asphalt or concrete sections are actually track at the top edge of the reservoir and any paved country tracks. If you look at the icon fall into the reservoir´s basin is very dangerous. representing type of surface at this stage, roads as such do not cover as much of the itinerary as • Connections to other footpaths and trails it may suggest. The ford across the Arroyo del The GR-249 y the GR-7 E-4 coincide entirely Algarrobo, at km 10.5, normally poses no problem, along this itinerary however in opposite direc- since here it is a dry stream bed, but be careful in tions. In case of the other GR it is its stage 6, rainy season just in case. The water spring of the Ardales to El Chorro, 15.5 km long. Fuenfría is the only water source, which hasn´t, At the Mirador de Ardales, almost at the end of course, been treated for human consumption, of the stage, the walk intersects with Camino and in addition it is diffi cult to locate. Finally, at de los Azulejos, and, and the asphalted track kilometre 4 there is the Embalse de Villaverde. It is known in the area as the track to Cueva is forbidden to walk along the highest perimeter de Ardales.

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

n the previous stages you got to know the three Embalses, although from afar, plus the ﬂ ood Icontrol reservoir Embalse del Gaitanejo. You will discover the other two during the current stage. The walk allows for very different views of the Contraembalse del Tajo de la Encantada, the The back view of the penstock seen from a bend in the path, one located at lowest height (the top of the dam on a slope leading towards the Embalse de la Encantada is at the lowest altitude of the day, 200 metres above the sea level). From El Chorro you will below, the steepest, and of the power plant. see the reinforced pipes shaped to adapt to the Beside the great sandstone cliff there a few changing terrain of the eastern ﬂ ank of Mesas de half-hidden constructions which are annexed Villaverde and Chimenea de Presión. During the to the pipeline and some remains of anchorage ascent the walk comes in contact with the pipe nailed to the ground which holds in place the and gives you an exclusive view of its section pipe that supplies water for maintenance and

230 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga The sandstones of the Sierra de Almorchón, Bobastro and Ardales Cave 21 construction work. You can also gaze south- east from the climbing ramps of the electric substation Tajo de la Encantada and, a little higher up, you can have a closer view of the Chimenea de Presión. But certainly the most unexpected experience is being able to admire the upper dam, occupying the entire length of the Mesas de Villaverde, with three peaks which together give the basin a Y-shape of a The cliffs known as Placas Frontales and one of the most pointy mushroom. beautiful railroad bridges In comparison with the earlier water dis- plays, the rest of the walk presents devastating very important for the inhabitants of the area, Las dryness. The only stream you will wade across Viñas farmers and shepherds of the surrounding is the Arroyo del Granado. Around the halfway hills. As they were far from any other source of point of the walk there is, on your right, (until you ford the stream) a sort of a dry stream bed, water, it was completely forbidden to water cattle northbound and enclosed between two walls of at the Fuente. This water spring is somewhat clay and sandstone. But, a little further down, famous among the Ardales inhabitants. Perhaps where the path twists to the east, a little away the most striking feature though is the compe- from the walk, this streambed starts carrying lling riparian wood the Fuente sustains and the water permanently towards the Hermitage of waterfall that fl ows into a trough carved out Nuestra Señora de Villaverde and fl owing into in the tufa deposits (the water contains a lot the reservoir at the level of the Desfi ladero de of lime) a few metres below the source. There los Gaitanes outlet. In this section it coincides is maidenhair fern here, Blue Throatwort and approximately with the limits of the Natural Area. numerous climbing plants. From the pool there Though generally of insuffi cient fl ow, the comes out an irrigation ditch surrounded by tall water of the Fuente de la Fuenfría has been white and black poplars and elms.

WALK DESCRIPTION

Between two Embalses, the Lower Train stop at El Chorro, Placas Frontales and the and Higher reservoir pine forest you walked during the previous stage El Chorro train station marks the beginning of the stage, along a service road that passes over the dam of the Contraembalse del Tajo de la Encantada and turns right along the road. Just at the km marker 11 of the MA-5403 road, a dirt track splits off westwards (km 1.2) that quickly changes into a path. After a couple of bends you reach the penstock (reinforced pipes) viewpoint where you have to take extra precautions and then continue

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 231 21 ESTACIÓN DEL CHORRO • ARDALES

climbing through a clear pine wood sometimes The sandstone cliff shows a different granulometry interspersed with olives, where Mediterranean Dwarf Palm, Broom-like Kidney Vetch, Retama and Osyris quadripartita have started to thrive as of late. Passing under a rocky cliff you have the opportunity to see the composition of this peculiar mix of yellowish-coloured sandstone and conglomerates, predominantly calcareous rock, but also you can see slate, shale and peroditite boulders. In the cliffs of the upper zone there is opportunity to locate the vaults and holes left by soft clay inclusions as the rocks eroded, some of great dimensions. Such a hole is technically called a tafone. Smaller holes tend to clump forming panels due to alveolar erosion. All around here there are spectacular views pine trees allows you to gaze now and then of El Chorro, Valle del Guadalhorce, the Placas at one of the best views of the Desfi ladero Frontales and the pine forest of the previous de los Gaitanes. The two gorges are visible, stage. The track widens whilst it leads through the Sierra of the Huma on the right and some a pine wood with larger size trees and some of the mountains of the Almorchón with the Savin junipers. Suddenly, the track encounters sharp silhouette of the Pico del Convento. the concrete wall of Presa Superior, the upper In the north-west corner of the reservoir´s dam. Take a junction to the right which even- Y shape you will note a prominent hilltop tually leads to the top edge of the dam at its observatory called Observatorio de Vigilancia northeast end (km 4), where transit is restricted del Chorro, belonging to the plan “Infoca” to but then continue along the perimeter track prevent forest fi res. The track then turns south circling the base of the dam. A clearing among and passes through a natural pool surrounded by many tamarisks. A guided tour of the ruins of Bobastro, in a quarry of masonry blocks The ruins of Bobastro At 5.6 kilometre marker you will access the MA-4400 service road of the reservoir, which optionally you could follow to the left to reach an area of viewpoints in the Mesas de Villaverde, close to the excavated site of the Bobastro ruins and a ledge containing cave dwellings and Mozarabic quarries (which are diffi cult to access), known as the Casa de la Reina Mora. Our walk, however, descends to the right along the road and in less than a kilometre arrives at the information point of the Ermita Rupestre de Bobastro. During the Pulgarín Alto to Alfarnate stage you passed

2232322 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga The sandstones of the Sierra de Almorchón, Bobastro and Ardales Cave 21 by the Cortijo de Auta farmhouse, which some quote as the birth place of Umar Ibn Hafsún (Omar Ben Hafsun in Spanish historiography); now it is time to see the capital of his rebellion against the Caliphate of Córdoba and the Umayyad dynasty, which is what Bobastro was. The fortiﬁ ed town is located on top of las Mesas. The construction of the dam in the seventies of the last century has resulted in the loss of some of the site. From this 6.6 kilometre marker of the stage you can access (during the opening hours) the ruins of the Iglesia Rupestre de Bobastro, of Mozarabic origin, located in a strategic place protected from the winds and looking towards the west. Watercourse of Arroyo del Granado surrounded by dry The construction of a church by this Andalucían farmed crops and sparse scrub leader corresponds with his conversion to Christianity after a long journey during which along the road for a kilometre. The track is in he had been looking for strategies to conquer good condition, leading along the watershed the capital of Al-Andalus and overthrow the line between the basins of Arroyo de los dynasty in power. Granados and the river Guadalhorce, which Las Viñas and la Cueva de Ardales flow in opposite directions at this point. The pine forest ends just as you take There is a succession of clay and rocky hills a left junction off the road, having walked and sandstone crags dotted with farmhouses

The slopes of Las Viñas which you have already travelled along, and the ridge of the Huma mountains in the background

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 233 21 ESTACIÓN DEL CHORRO • ARDALES

The beautiful endemic Rupicapnos africana on the sheltered sandstone face

Maidenhair fern surrounding the Fuenfría water spring

the slope. If you turn around and look back, you will be awarded with an excellent view to the Sierra de Huma, Central Limestone Arch with Torcal de Antequera, and the Guadalhorce Valley with the infrastructure and sheds with farming implements. You will of the Ave speed train. Looking ahead you pass one by one the Casa Bolero, Zamarrilla, will see the Sierra del Agua and its row of Merchano and the Rancho del Boina. The old vineyards lost during the phylloxera epidemic wind turbines. have been replaced by dry farmed crops, predo- At kilometre 9 the footpath of Arroyo minantly almond trees, and uncultivated areas del Granado approaches our path, with a dedicated to the grazing of goats and sheep few little houses scattered on its slopes between retama and hedgehog vegetation. and some groves of pine trees. A kilometre There are numerous junctions left and right, and half later cross a watercourse where always choose the track that goes up and along the track narrows and another climb starts adding on to all the previous twists and turns. La Casa de la Reina Mora, out of the way but accessible from the Mesa de Villaverde (not sign-posted) You are now back in the Monte Público, the common land. You will thus reach El Puerto de la Riela pass, and la Alamedilla area, where, having crossed a little stream and before passing by gravel quarries, you will ﬁ nd Fuente de Fuenfría. Here the terrain undergoes a radical change as limestone and dolomite of the Sierra Blanquilla of Ardales appear.

234 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga The sandstones of the Sierra de Almorchón, Bobastro and Ardales Cave 21

Up to the natural spring you were headed south-west, from here you turn progressively north-westerly until reaching an incline (km 13.2 up to the main track. Following the left fork you reach Cueva de Ardales cave. A pyramidal construction of brick at the end of the road, to the West, locates this signifi cant prehistoric site which was the fi rst tourism- oriented cave in Spain. It is possible to tour it contacting the offi cials of Ardales. What is left to do now is to admire the landscape of the Valley of the Turón River from comfortable downhill track to the village of Ardales, which can be accessed after passing below the road A-357. The proposed end of the stage is the interesting Museum of Ardales, at the northern end of the village crossing the Campanula mollis fl owering in the vicinity of Bobastro Arroyo de la Torre.

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

30S 033261 30S 0343149 1 Estación de El Chorro 255 m 2 Embalse del Tajo de la 220 m 4086029 Encantada, reservoir 4085798 30S 0342821 3 End of road 4 Mirador de la Tubería 30S 0342744 MA-5403 at Km 11 220 m 275 m 4086023 Forzada, viewpoint 4086150 30S 0342382 30S 0342140 5 Sandstone cliff 375 m 6 Mirador de las Placas 410 m 4085926 Frontales y El Chorro, viewpoint 4085801 7 Mirador del 30S 0341805 8 Mirador del Paraje 30S 0341860 Contraembalse de 575 m Natural Desﬁ ladero de los 560 m la Encantada, viewpoint 4085912 Gaitanes, viewpoint 4086067 9 Access to ruins of 30S 0341343 30S 0340667 la Iglesia Rupestre de 485 m 10 Mirador de la Sierra del 510 m Bobastro 4085227 Huma, viewpoint 4083946 11 Mirador del Arroyo 30S 0340329 12 Vado del Arroyo del Granado, 30S 0339371 del Granado and El Búho, 460 m ford across the Arroyo 470 m viewpoint 4083356 4082768 30S 0337579 13 Fuente de la 30S 0337961 14 Access to la Cueva de 540 m Ardales 565 m Fuenfría, natural spring 404082369 4082564 30S 0335521 15 Mirador de Ardales, 30S 0337187 16 End of Stage at Museo 525 m Municipal de Ardales 380 m viewpoint 4083069 4083209

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 235 VII Río Turón and the Sierra de las Nieves

The retaining wall of the unﬁ nished dam of Rio Turón, in la Laja The Gran Senda de Málaga along Río Turón and the Biosphere Reserve of the Sierra de las Nieves

he Great Malaga Path uses the Turón of the Torecilla, (1,919 m) which works as a River Trail in stages 22 and 23 to connect recipient of abundant precipitation, some- TEl Burgo with Ardales and then Ronda times in the form of snow. Here are located through 47 kilometres of roads, which pass the most important potholes of the southern partly through the Natural Park and biosphere peninsula, such as the Sima Gesm Sima de la reserve of the Sierra de las Nieves. Luz system (1.101- m) and the Sima del Aire El Parque Natural Sierra de las Nieves (- 640 m), both still being discovered, that drain occupies a privileged position in the province water to the various springs at the foot of the of Malaga defi ning regions as emblematic as sierra. On the Meseta de Quejigales (Plateau the Guadalteba northwards, the Guadalhorce of Gall Oaks) there is a high altitude version Valley to the east, the Costa del Sol to the of this Quercus species, and in the hillsides south and the Serrania de Ronda to the surrounding it, especially to the north and to west. In each one of them the mountain the west, you will fi nd the most extensive area of Sierra de las Nieves generates one Andalucían Spanish Fir forests, the Pinsapar. or several river headwaters. In its area major The Great Path of Málaga takes you through watercourses of Malaga are born, such as it by the municipal district of El Burgo, the the Guadalteba in the north, and, in the last piece of land which had been annexed clockwise direction the Turón and Rio Verde to create the current 20.163 hectares. In fact, (and others that fl ow into the Mediterranean the GR-249 runs along the entire Río Turón Sea) plus the Guadiaro. Valley, from one of the sources in the Lifa The Natural Park, declared as such in 1989, Valley to its delta at the reservoir Conde de is characterized by a high altitude plateau. At Guadalhorce. The walk however follows the Its southern end rises the cone-shaped peak river direction upstream.

236 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga Río Turón and the Sierra de las Nieves VII

The Río Turón has two main tributaries. mostly composed of dry agricultural lands- The Arroyo de la Higuera is born in the fi r cape. There are some other dams between forest of Ronda, in the Cañada de las Animas, these two villages, and an unfi nished work and by the Cuesta de Gazpacho it reaches the in the area known as la Laja which is worth area where The Great Málaga Path crosses mentioning. It is a reservoir placed in the the watercourse immediately after its union narrow space between two gray limestone with Arroyo de Lifa (or the Sabinal). Both escarpments which close the watercourse streams dry out in summer. Further down, halfway between Ardales and El Burgo. It was from the farmhouse Cortijo de Hierbabuena, designed by the same engineer who created the stream gets the name of Rio del Burgo the Conde de Guadalhorce, Rafael Benjumea. and acquires its status of a permanent river. From the road that joins both towns and from The successive retaining walls and re-planted the stage 22 the reservoir is accessible. It pines attempt to stabilize the sheer drops of is possible to see the huge unfi nished dyke, easily eroded rocks with high contents of clay. quarry area and service buildings. There are also some course-changing dams The Great Path of Málaga helps the tra- with irrigation ditches meant for orchards veller discover this important river in the two which, already near El Burgo, begin to settle stages of the walk, walking up to the hills on river banks. with pine forest planted for public use and The river surrounds the town of El Burgo seeing the watercourse at different points, from the south creating an escarpment on with its lush vegetation, fi nally visiting one which the Castle used to reside, and then it of the most curious forests of Andalusia, the continues down already carrying the name of Lifa Cornicabral (Terebinth Tree). Turón between Prieta and Alcaparaín mountains These stages also invite you to do any to the south and Ortegicar in the north. A few additional walks through the protected site kilometres before being dammed at the old in order to catch a glimpse what the heart El Chorro reservoir (today called Conde de of the Park has to offer as it climbs the vast Guadalhorce) it passes under a Roman bridge mountain pass where there are examples and passes Ardales by on the right. If not for of Spanish Fir in close proximity, mountain the Aleppo pine forests the valley would be maples and spiny scrub close to the summit.

One of the Río Turón “acequia” channels covered with Maidenhair fern

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 237232 7 22 ARDALES • EL BURGO: Public Mountain Land in Ortegícar and the Río Turón

ARDALES • EL BURGO 22 Public Mountain Land in Ortegícar and the Río Turón

ESTIMATED TIME 5 hours 35 minutes Altitude (m) Mirador Cortijo de la Cerro Los Márquez Redondo Almorchón Herradura 800 Mirador Prado del 750 Embalses Águila 700 650 Castillo Fuente del Turón Nueva El Burgo 600 550 Ardales 500 Los Jiménez 450 Río 400 Turón 350 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 Distance (km)

LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 22.8 Accumulated ascent 570 Final altitude 560 Ascent km 10.4 Accumulated descent 360 Maximum altitude 815 Descent km 8.9 Maximum difference 465 Minimum altitude 348 Flat km 3,5 Altitude at starting point 370 Average altitude 630

Summary of this Stage Stage 22 starts and ends at the Río Turón as it passes through the towns of Ardales and El Burgo respectively. In the absence of an itinerary that follows the straight line between two points along the valley, the approved path leads up for more than 800 metres above sea level to three public mountain areas with managed forests and the marly limestone Sierra de Ortegicar. Therefore the outline of the Stage shows major ups and downs along the demanding route. Approximately halfway into the walk you head west, and then turn south from Los Márquez. At all times the walk uses dirt forest tracks in good condition. This is because in the centre of the area there are service access roads to public mountain land and at the beginning and at the end there are several well-known farmhouses and numerous ﬁ elds. Almost half of the walk is in the shade of the forests of Aleppo Pine covering the clay hills.

Highlights of this Stage This Stage takes the hiker to a sierra which is quite unknown, located in the triangle of Ardales, El Burgo and Serrato between the limestone Sierra de Ortegicar to the north, and the Río Turón to the south.

238 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga ARDALES • EL BURGO: Public Mountain Land in Ortegícar and the Río Turón 22

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 1 1 1 3 3.1 19.7 -- NO

Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17

The area is quite popular with walkers and mountain bikers, with the famous circular route called Espinazo de Perro and a network of forest trails that allow planning diverse circulars including the GR-7 E-4 in his ﬁ fth leg. It is the ﬁ rst time that the GR-249 follows such a huge area of marly limestone covered with a repopulated forest, rather dense in some spots with Oaks, junipers and savins. The departure and arrival, in turn, let you meet the Río Turón, just before the dam of the Conde Guadalhorce, which can be seen from various points, as in two previous stages.

• Starting point: junction of the street Ardales road. El Burgo is connected to the Calle Mancerilla with the Calle Huelva, Serranía de Ronda and the Guadalhorce in the northwest area of Ardales. Valley via the A-366 (Ronda-Alozaina). • Access to starting point: Ardales • Possible “escape routes”: MA-5400 is accessed by the A-357 Málaga- motorway links the towns of Serrato and Campillos. The area is also reached El Burgo. Although it is not visible from by the MA-5402, which can be linked with Casarabonela (by the A-7275) and the walk, it is very close, always to the El Burgo (the MA-5401) which is also right, starting from the highest point of linked to the previous points). the stage at Los Márquez. • Finish point: Calle Fuente Nueva Street, • No return point: from Los Márquez, it in the northern part of the town of El is best to follow the GR and go down to Burgo, right on the road to Ardales. El Burgo. It is an easily found point in • Access to finish point: MA-5401 or the field: the highest part of the walk as you are leaving pine forest before entering another one. • Maps: Begin with the 1038-I (Ardales) but only a few metres. The tree-lined main part is located at 1037-IV (Serrato) and ends on the 1051-I (El Burgo). • District boundries: up to km 8.2 it is Ardales. You walk for more than 2.5 km on the edge of this town bordering with El Burgo and afterwards, from Los Márquez, you are in El Burgo boundaries.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 239232 9 22 ARDALES • EL BURGO: Public Mountain Land in Ortegícar and the Río Turón

• Enjoy the walk safely The trail does not pass through any permanently inhabited places, although it is common to see people passing by at the beginning and at the end of the stage, coinciding with the work areas. Since there are no water supply points, it is necessary to plan this long and physically demanding route very well. Although this stage A dense tapestry of Potamogeton covers areas of lower follows tarmac surfaces, it’s not roads we are current Turón River talking about rather than paved lanes on the steepest slopes. The circulation of vehicles is higher area which is called Los Márquez and very scarce in the area. there are roads with that very name lading • Connections to other footpaths and trails through it. Stage 5 of the GR-7 E-4 (Serrato-Ardales), Within the cycling network in the Sierra 13.6 km long, coincides with our GR from the de las Nieves there is an adapted route El beginning up to the bridge of la Molina, but Burgo to Espinazo del Perro, a 19.3 kilometre veers northwest at the fi rst major intersection circular which coincides with The Great Path just as you cross the Río Turón. of Málaga in the fi nal section. At the Puerto Ardales Town Council has prepared fi ve walks de Herradura pass an alternative branches to promote a healthy lifestyle; the walks depart off to the left, towards the farmhouse of la from the town. They are the routes of Cortijo Herradura (250 metres from the junction), Simon, Carretera EL Burgo, Los Llanos de Belén, and that is the traditional path of Puerto del Carretera de Badén and a climb called Subida Cumbre. Another old road is the one to Teba, al Calvario; all are between 2 and 8 km long. which leads through the Arroyo de los Niños The fi rst part of our walk in known in the in north direction coinciding with the path at village as El Camino de los Jiménez, an area the end of the stage. Finally, in the area of named for the huge land belonging to the farm village gardens there is a tarmac lane to the of the same name. The same happens in the left is known as the Camino de los Membrillos. THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

he walk at this stage allows little contact with The Turón around the bridge of la Molina just at the start of Stage 22 streams and springs. However, the hills of Tmarly limestone you visit are the watershed basin between two rivers of quite a magnitude in the province of Malaga. To the south, and you can have a quick glance at it in the beginning, is the Río Turón, few kilometres before the reservoir in the Conde de Guadalhorce. The Turón as it passes through the bridge of la Molina has little vegetation on its banks: a thick belt of Oleander and some

240 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga ARDALES • EL BURGO: Public Mountain Land in Ortegícar and the Río Turón 22 bulrushes, with an interesting population of an aquatic plant of the genus Potamogeton which covers the surface of the water with lanceolate leaves and a few erect fl owers. Northwards, several temporary streams have their source in these summits and fl ow into the river Guadalteba, which earns that A Perez´s frog sunning itself on leaves of aquatic plants name in the village of Serrato, in the old town where the Arroyo de las Cuevas converges la Herradura you reach a fairly wide and damp with the tiny stream of Serrato. It is, therefore, spot, full of Brambles, Wild Roses and Rushes, a dividing watershed (especially remarkable in called Eagle Meadow (Prado de Aguila), where the Cerro de Márquez) that carries water to two there is a barely recognizable well among the different reservoirs, the aforementioned Conde vegetation. From here there fl ows a stream that del Guadalhorce and the Guadalteba, joining at gets bigger when it goes through Fuente Cepero the entrance of the Desfi ladero de los Gaitanes. (which hasn´t been adapted for drinking water); In the north-eastern end of the Loma del a place with large eucalyptus trees, where the Castillo there is the Fuente Techada, however it stream starts being called Arroyo de los Niños. is not on our itinerary. At the end you do cross a You will cross this Arroyo several times in the locally important spring, which is called Fuente shelter of a beautiful forest with black poplars, Nueva and has been recently improved. Before willows and white poplars. Finally, very close to reaching it, you will be walking through an area El Burgo there is El Molino Polo, which used to rich in minor water springs. Having walked be fed by an acequia that now supplies water to downhill on the steep path from the Puerto de the surrounding orchards.

WALK DESCRIPTION

Los Jiménez and the Castillo of Turón the area of Aguar and begin an ascent along a From Ardales you must ﬁ nd the bridge of paved lane that leaves aside a few low industrial la Molina, of Roman origin, with three of its buildings and allows us to admire to the east five original arches and in good condition. the village of Ardales. Notice northwards a solar The Río Turón and then the Guadalteba in farm at the farmhouse of la Aguada. When you come to a vantage point you have the Umbria the north constituted two water barriers to de Fuente Techada on your left, and the Loma cross on the road to Roman-time Málaga to de Castillo, crowned by an Arabic fortress. Acinipo or Antequera, and Ardales was in a The Castillo of the Río Turón has a privileged strategic position. Considering its 21 centuries location over the river valley, with craggy grey of antiquity it is a privilege to be able to use this limestone cliffs which made the construction bridge on the Great Path of Málaga, with its of walls to the east quite unnecessary. On the embankments and arches of Ashlar sandstone. other side, which can be seen from the walk, You ascend gently by the bank of Río Turón walls had to be built, the Barbican and several and pass on the right a track used by the E-4 towers among which stands out the Alcazar of GR-7 coming from Serrato. Cross a stream in military commanders, facing the Peña of Ardales.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 241 22 ARDALES • EL BURGO: Public Mountain Land in Ortegícar and the Río Turón

This fortress aimed to provide support to another reservoirs of the Guadalhorce, with Río Turón castle, the Ardales, during the Nasrid border wars, in the foreground, and the Paraje Natural when the nearby Castillo de Teba was Christian. reserve Desfi ladero de los Gaitanes eastward. At this point, at kilometre 4, pass a major track Looking south, notice the mountain contours on your left that goes to the Cortijo de la Laja of Sierra de Alcaparaín and the Valley of the and the Turón river, an area where a reservoir Río Turón. And to the northwest, the grey was attempted to be built. You can also follow fl at profi le of the Sierra de Ortegicar where a twist of that track northwards towards Cortijo the GR is headed. Next you cross another de los Jiménez. This property, which is on the mountain, area, the Sierra del Burgo, which left, was in its times large enough to lend its belongs to the autonomous community of name to the entire area and through which you Andalucía and has more than 2,000 hectares. have been walking so far, between the working Having seen the sign Monte Público at fi elds and livestock. a major intersection you will arrive at Cerro Monte Público de la Laja, Redondo (km 7) and continue skirting the Los Romerales and El Cerro del Rey hillside follow a fi rebreak until km 10 you The entire area of pine forest which you walk will reach a new junction where you veer through climbing towards Los Márquez and during left. So far the Aleppo Pine has had very low the subsequent descent is managed as public undergrowth, mainly Esparto grass. However, forest land. Pine trees that top the hills of pink in the shady parts there are junipers, savins limestone are there to settle the land prone to and Terebinth. There are copses of Holm erosion, with the consequent danger of silt settling Oaks in some parts mixed with Kermes Oak, in the reservoirs. The three areas of public forests Mastic trees and Mediterranean Dwarf Palm. are named after three places which you pass by Los Márquez and the Cortijo de on your left. Laja is a climbing area which is at the la Herradura western end of the Cerro del Castillo, El Cerro del The landscape changes dramatically at Rey is west of Jiménez farm and the Romerales the maximum altitude of the route. There is is the high area. The 400 hectares are privately a wide strip occupied by olives, almonds and owned but the forest use syndicated. fi elds that separates the previous pine wood From the Jiménez farm the toughest as- from another, quite extensive one another cent begins but it allows good views over the fairly extensive, called the Rompedizos and the Madroño, with thousand hectares belon- Malaga breed of goats in a fi eld with stubble, Ardales, ging to the old Andalucían water agency. A and the Huma in the background sign indicates that this fi eld is also a hunting reserve due to the presence of the Spanish Ibex which roam the slopes of the Cerro Almorchón de Gutiérrez that stands out in the middle of the forest like a rocky tower to the west. In general the walk is headed for that mountain, with the road Serrato-El Burgo at its base, but it gradually turns right towards the south before reaching the mountain. From km 15 onwards you will start noticing signs of the bike route Espinazo del

242 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga ARDALES • EL BURGO: Public Mountain Land in Ortegícar and the Río Turón 22

Perro, which will keep you company to the end of this stage. When you reach the Puerto de la Herradura that cycling route comes to a junction (km 17.5), where it can be made a t circular, following direction left to the farmhouse of la Herradura and a place that gives the striking name to the bike route Espinazo de Perro meaning El Castillo of the Río Turón cuts against the sky seen from the walk Dog´s Backbone. The GR-249, all that is left to do is to keep walking downhill southward on a steep slope, to the Prado de Aguila (km 19), following the incipient Arroyo de los Niños up to the eucalyptus trees around Fuente Cepero, passing by the country houses Farol and La Viña Calderon and arriving to the area of Tejar. Here you need to turn south-west at the Molino Polo amongst pretty gardens on the right bank of the Río Turón, pass by the Fuente Nueva and First ascent reveals the dark limestone of the Sierra de arrive at the town of El Burgo. Alcaparaín

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

1 Ardales, C/ 30S 0335237 30S 0335051 Mancerilla with C/ 370 m 2 Puente Romano de la 350 m Huelva, streets 4083279 Molina, Roman bridge 4083450 30S 0334357 30S 0332281 3 Mirador de Ardales, 370 m 4 Castillo del Turón, castle 500 m viewpoint 4083441 4082331 30S 0331963 30S 0331687 5 Cortijo de los 210 m 6 Mirador de los pantanos, 565 m Jiménez, farmhouse 4082369 viewpoint to the reservoirs 4082819 7 Cortafuegos del Puerto 30S 0330155 8 Los Márquez and Puerto 30S 0328269 del Mirador, ﬁ rebreak 687 m de las Cruces 790 m close to viewpoint 4081974 4082603 30S 0326528 10 Junction to Cortijo de 30S 0326977 9 Possible detour to 770 m la Herradura and 735 m MA-5400 4080003 Espinazo del Perro 4078087 30S 0326983 30S 0326679 11 Prado del Águila, 645 m 12 Eucalyptus groves at 605 m meadow 4077096 Fuente Cepero spring 40766348 30S 0326904 30S 0326509 13 Molino Polo, mill 545 m 14 End of Stage 22 at Calle 560 m 4073944 Fuente Nueva de El Burgo 4073451

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 243 23 EL BURGO • RONDA: The Río Turón and the Cornicabral of Lifa

EL BURGO • RONDA 23 The Río Turón and the Cornicabral of Lifa ESTIMATED TIME 7 hours 25 minutes Altitude (m) Cortijo Puerto de Mirador de de Lifa Lifa Ronda 1160 1110 1060 Corral 1010 Cornicabral Venta de 960 de Lifa 910 Ramirón Cortijo de la Vado del Puerto 860 Hierbabuena Río Turón Bilbao 810 Río Turón Ronda 760 710 660 El Burgo 610 560 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 Distance (km) LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 24.2 Accumulated ascent 720 Final altitude 730 Ascent km 9.9 Accumulated descent 515 Maximum altitude 1.160 Descent km 9.2 Maximum difference 605 Minimum altitude 550 Flat km 5.1 Altitude at starting point 565 Average altitude 840

Summary of this Stage It is a long stage which passes through an area of sierra with quite a high altitude in Lifa, which is the Sierra de las Nieves high mountain pass. The route oscillates gently between east and west, ﬁ rst leading along a track in very good condition parallel to the Río Turón, surrounded by pine forests, and then on paths crossing the Lifa Cornicabral to Cortijo de Lifa. From there the GR takes you along a forest track that ascends to 1,160 meters in the Puerto de Lifa, a place which combines its altitude with strategic geographic situation to create a truly mountainous landscape. The long descent to Ronda through the town´s agricultural area par excellence, the plains of Aguaya and through the valley of the Arroyo del Lancero stream, which contains more water as the sierra ends.

Highlights of this Stage The river Turón itself and the dams and dykes built along the watercourse make the views worthwhile, not only because of the landscapes created by water but also the interesting green belt of vegetation of river forests which blanket the area. There are several sign-posted footpaths which can be used additionally to the GR. The Gran Senda enters the mountains of the Parque Natural de la Sierra de las Nieves via the valley and mountain pass of Lifa, which harbours one of the most extensive cornicabrales,

244 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga EL BURGO • RONDA: The Río Turón and the Cornicabral of Lifa 23

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 3 2 2 4 3.7 17 3.5 x 1

Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17

forests of Mastic Tree (or Turpentine Tree) in the province, looked over by an old abandoned watchtower and the Cortijo de Lifa, a place which is special as it was the witness to the death of the last bandolero (bandit) of the Serranía de Ronda, the unparalleled Pasos Largos. You arrive in Ronda from the well-known Puerto de Lifa skirting the Sierra Hidalga with its Holm Oak woods and single Pinsapos.

• Starting point: the square with the monument on the tracks of the beginning or the end of to Pasos Largos, at the intersection of the the stage route, following them or retracing A-366 with roads to Serrato (MA - 5400) your steps. and Ardales (MA-5401). • No return point: as soon as you reach • Access to starting point: from Alozaina the Cornicabral and you see Cortijo de Lifa and the Valle del Guadalhorce A-366, also which is inhabited, it is a better idea to from Ronda, Serrato or Ardales, as men- keep going. In case of very bad weather tioned above. it is not advisable to continue uphill as weather conditions in Puerto de Lifa can • Finish point: Ronda fairground, next to be even more dire. Pasarela de Libertad, in the north-eastern part of the town. • Maps: Beginning of the stage 1051-II (El Burgo) up to Lifa then go to 1051-I (Arriate) • Access to ﬁ nish point: the end of route and 1051-III (Ronda). coincides with the intersection of the A-397 • District boundries: About km 9 when to the Costa del Sol, A-374 to Seville, the you wade across the Río Turón (or Río del A-367 to Malaga and the A-366 to Alozaina. Burgo) you enter the district of El Burgo • Possible “escape routes”: there is no and continue within these boundaries till possibility of leaving the path other than the end of the stage.

Starting point of stage 23, A-366 road bridge over El Burgo river

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 245242 5 23 EL BURGO • RONDA: The Río Turón and the Cornicabral of Lifa

there are two well-advertised urban walks, the promenade El Paseo de la Acequia del Molino and El Puente Romano. Once you are on the track leading to the dams, there are some options in the Natural Park. The Park likes the marly limestone hills that separate the Turón River from its Llamativos estratos de margocaliza, la principal tributary, Arroyo de la Fuensanta, running roca sobre la que se transita parallel in the s. Public Footpath of Puerto de la Mujer (5.8 km) is on the dividing line of • Enjoy the walk safely the mentioned watersheds. The Fuensanta During the short section of road, beware of walk (2.2 km) shares the same path with the the traffi c, above all to cross the bridge over previous walk up to the Puerto del Lobo and the river. Upstream, when you need to ford the third walk, which is also the longest (18 the Río Turón, it is normally a dry riverbed. km), uses the track leading from the Puerto However, this river course comes from the de la Mujer, coinciding with the GR-249 for Sierra de las Nieves, and a storm can turn almost 9 km, and leads down the track to la the ford into very dangerous one, although Fuensanta and to El Burgo again. The latter this happens rarely. is highly recommended for mountain biking. The stage is hard because of its length, the Moreover, the trail is one of the two old steep slopes and the solitude of landscapes that roads that connected El Burgo with Ronda, it spans. As there are no water supply points, both leading through mountain passes well the advance planning of all the details of the above 1,000 meters in height. Our road trip is essential. The Lifa pass is a place with used to lead to Yunquera through El Puerto enough altitude where weather conditions de la Mujer. can be extreme. It is not uncommon for it to snow here. The good news is that you walking Finally, close to your destination point, along a track in good condition where there Ronda inhabitants use roads which lead is no possibility of getting lost. through the plains of Aguaya for long walks towards the Pilar of Coca from the Venta • Connections to other footpaths and trails Ramirón, to the area of the Guadalevín The GR-243 Sierra de las Nieves, with River. In fact, the famous race of the 101 a length of 94.28 km and adapted in 2009 kilometres organised by the Legion always by the Walking Association Pasos Largos passes through the Puerto Bilbao pass. In and the Malaga Provincial Council, coincides addition, it is described as PR-A71 (Ronda-Pilar with this stage of our GR. The description of de Coca), a trail of 9.1 kilometres certifi ed its fi rst stage (Ronda - El Burgo, of 23.49 km) by the Andalucían Mountain Federation. The is done in opposite direction to the itinerary last element in this network of routes is the of The Great Malaga Path. From El Burgo it Puerta Verde de Marbella, a walk equal in heads south passing through Yunquera, with length to a marathon, which leads to Marbella two alternative sections and ending in Istán. from Ronda by the Pilar de Coca and crosses In the same area where the stage starts, our GR at the Venta of Ramirón restaurant.

246 GR-249GR-249 GranGran SendaSenda dede MálagaMálaga EL BURGO • RONDA: The Río Turón and the Cornicabral of Lifa 23

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

arque Natural Sierra de las Nieves is the Forest ranger and then the Hierbabuena the origin of numerous rivers. One of the close to a farm with the same name. The river Pmost important from the socio-economic upstream from the last dams usually dries out point of view is the Turón, which empties in summer. The vegetation that surrounds the its waters into the reservoir of Conde de watercourse is typically Mediterranean, with Guadalhorce, a high quality infrastructure Holm Oak, Lentisc, Terebinth, Brambles and generating electricity and supplying water Roses among their main species. In the area to the capital of the province. where you can ford the Turón river, two streams The “pampering” that the precious liquid meet: the Arroyo de la Higuera, which is born receives during the stage of the walk consists in the Pinsapar de Cañada de las Animas, and in protecting of river banks by planting Aleppo the Lifa stream (or the Sabinal), whose bank pines, where vines and other crops used to you can walk on. grow. Then there is the succession of dams The rest of the walk takes you through both upstream and downstream from the limestone mountains, and circulation of water pueblo which regulates the river fl ow trying to avoid excess accumulation of sediment or on limestone surface is not possible. You don´t the river gaining too much momentum. In spite come across water until you reach the plains of of these actions that alter the river, the views Aguaya. When you pass through the last gate are spectacular, with long and deep pools and a cattle grid you can hear down below the of turquoise water surrounded by patches Arroyo de Lancero, which has its source here, of green, providing a stark contrast to the although it had suffered serious damage due somewhat dry landscape. to water supply probing. If the riparian vegetation is spectacular, When you arrive at Ronda fairgrounds you with willow, basket willow, black and white cross over one of the better known streams here, poplars and elms wrestling with the masses the Arroyo de la Toma, which has a source in of oleanders and vines, the fauna doesn´t fall the plains of Aguaya and is a tributary of the far behind. The Otter is the main predator of Guadalevín river, then they enter the famous the river, thanks to the abundant fi sh such as Tajo de Ronda gorge together. barbel, nase and chub. This river also harbours a fl ourishing population of the native crayfi sh, A damselfl y rescued from the water at one of the dams since very recently in decline. Terrapins, snakes, over Turón river kingfi shers and amphibians are easy to observe vertebrates, while damselfl ies and dragonfl ies are also abundant in summer. Dykes and dams which you can see along the walk are called: De La Presa (used by the youths of the town for spectacular jumps), El Azud Largo which feeds a very sizeable irrigation channel and has an area popular with locals for a swim, next is the Del Nacimiento at the foot of the Monument of

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 247 23 EL BURGO • RONDA: The Río Turón and the Cornicabral of Lifa

WALK DESCRIPTION

The Dams over Turón River One of few monuments erected to commemorate a bandit, From the roundabout where three roads this one dedicated to Pasos largos in El Burgo of El Burgo intersect, beside the monument to Juan José Gallardo Mingolla (known as Pasos Largos) and the fuel station, take the shady road towards Yunquera for 250 meters and after crossing the Turón river bear right taking a dirt track towards Puerto de la Mujer and Los Diques. At the beginning there are signs for a circular walk, then a side-road to the left towards the trails of Fuensanta and the Puerto de la Mujer (which share the fi rst stretch of the path). The track continues as the river valley becomes denser with more species of plants; tall poplars, and an abundance of ash trees; however the deep pool banks are perfect places for willows. Often you will see fi sh in the clean waters. At kilometre 1.2 there is a water source on the right and at km 2.7 you come to an outcrop of pink marly limestone at a vantage point. From here you can see the dam De la Presa, there is a track that descends to the prepared swimming area at the Azud largo see the huge escarpment of the Viewpoint of dam, a recommended short stroll. the Forest Guard with the Ronda road above. At kilometre 4.5, with the Nacimiento dam You are already in the Parque Natural Sierra across a river bend, on the other side you can de las Nieves. The pine forest is now much more dense, you passed by a spring and the only house in this part of the walk, Cortijo The fi rst dam of Río del Burgo following the direction of the path de la Hierbabuena farmhouse, dedicated to goat and sheep farming (km 6.3). The track ascends a little more decisively until km 8.6, very close to Puerto de la Mujer, and here you must leave it and fi nd a path which goes down steeply towards Río del Burgo riverbed, just where its tributaries unite. In the wedge between the river tributaries there is a ruin of the Cortijo de la Troncha where the path used to lead originally.

248 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga EL BURGO • RONDA: The Río Turón and the Cornicabral of Lifa 23

Cornicabral or Terebinth Forest of Lifa Rising along the banks of the Arroyo de Lifa, which is on the left, the pine wood is enriched with Holm Oaks, Kermes Oaks, Olive trees, Mastic, Terebinth, Roses and other shrubs of the Mediterranean maquis, especially near the watercourse. The path ascends through an area conquered by the native vegetation not long ago. Still The Azud Largo is used by locals for water sports and a summer swim can see the piles of boulders and cleared fi elds of ancient dry farming crops and some olive trees, although the path does not strata are on the right, while on the left of pass through the ruins of the Cortijo de the path there is in all its splendour the Lifa Buenavista, nerve centre of this agricultural Cornicabral, Terebinth wood, (truly superb activity. Next to park limit signs of the Parque when it turns red in the fall), at its western Natural Sierra de las Nieves, the Terebinth end topped by the rocky mass on which the is gaining prominence to become a forest. Atalaya de Lifa tower sits, a structure which Specimens growing along the fi rst steep has been quite badly affected by the passage climb are especially large at the foot of a of time. Looking south you will note against limestone pit (km 10.3). the horizon the contours of the Sierra de las Pass on your right the steep gully of the Nieves (Peñon de Ronda Rock, Peñon de los Cañada de Sopalmito, which witnessed the Enamorados as well as some Spanish Fir trees) fi nal bloody episodes of the bandit, Pasos while in front, on an imposing hill, stands out Largo´s life. The path crosses the slope of the tree that gives its name to the Puerto Sierra Blanquilla in the middle. The rocky del Pinsapo. Even higher you will notice the landslides on the slope, sometimes compacted “torcal” limestone formations blanketed with into limestone breccias, and cliffs with visible maples growing in the Riscos de Lirios crags. El Cortijo y el Puerto de Lifa As the Lifa Tower gets close and suddenly the terrain becomes easier. The path leads through the area infl uenced by Cortijo Lifa, which is located on a large clay fl atland sheltered by high mountains that surround it, there even is a well. The walk passes through working fi elds and pastures. All gates must be closed after you pass through, to help manage the livestock. The houses fall behind on your left (km 12.3), while the GR uses the track that begins to rise again, slightly to the southwest. Various striped Shieldbugs on fennel fl owers on the The vegetation changes substantially due to side of the path human activity, but also due to the altitude.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 249 23 EL BURGO • RONDA: The Río Turón and the Cornicabral of Lifa

There is a scrub here of Hawthorn, Gorse Los Llanos de Aguaya and Wide-leaved Daphne with some specimens The imposing mountain to the south is the of Montpelier Maple. In the limestone cliffs Sierra Hidalga. Also note some dark, very high to the south some dark solitary fi r survives in trees in the distance, which are centuries-old the rugged slopes of the Carramolo de Queso. After some bends you reach a hillock (km 14.3) fi rs left over from the primeval forests. The from which it is worth look back at how far you Oaks of the northern slope of the sierra stand have walked and admire the fl at Cortijo de Lifa, out against the gray of the limestone in a Sierra Blanquilla behind and the Sierras Cabrilla dense wood where young specimens of fi rs and Alcaparaín completing the landscape. are scattered. Across the valley the terrain is The two GRs arrive at the Puerto de Lifa from being colonized by the Oaks little by little, also different directions at the altitude of 1,160 since the introduction of managed hunting, meters and there are some hedgehog brooms especially for deer. This is also why getting in the surrounding area. So far the track cons- in and out of the area you cross some cattle titute the limit of the protected natural area, grids. The ruins of the Cortijo del Lirio and here the Natural Park is passed by on the left. Peñon Verde ahead tell a recent story of a The Great Path of Malaga comes to kilometre very different lifestyle, more closely related 14.9 where it starts to go down. The valley is to agriculture and animal husbandry. squeezed between the Puerto Frío pass to the south and Los Peñoncillos to the north while Passing through the second gate with the path again twists to the west again. There a cattle grid, now closer to the Arroyo del is a lime kiln at the foot of the path and at km Lancero, the descent becomes easier (km 18.8) 17, before going through ruins and corrals; it is and you enter the Llanos de Aguaya plains, the best place to see the fl at landscape ahead which are vast working fi elds with numerous of the walk, with the backdrop of Ronda and cottages. The major junction in this area is Cadiz limestone sierras. also where the tarmac starts.

Valle de Lifa from the dirt track climbing to the pass

250 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga EL BURGO • RONDA: The Río Turón and the Cornicabral of Lifa 23

Here the Venta Ramirón restaurant is located at the crossroads of Yunquera road (the GR) with the Cordel de los Pescadores. Following this right-of-way track brings you to the already mentioned Pilar de Coca. To the left there is an airﬁ eld and the Guadalevín river on its way toward the Fuenfría and the Costa del Sol. Lifa farm is surrounded by wide pastures and ﬁ elds The GR, on the other hand, continues straight and climbs a small vantage point known as the Puerto Bilbao (km 22), from which you can see once again the small town of Ronda. A downhill stroll and a few turns take the walker to a bridge across the Arroyo de la Toma which lends its name to the nearby building material shops. After a short walk that passes the fairground enclosure of Ronda on your left you arrive at the end of Stage 23 at the so-called Pasarela de la Libertad. The Lifa Tower and the Terebinth forest seen from the walk

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

30S 0326006 30S 0325873 1 Jardines de Pasos Largos en 565 m 2 Detour of the walk to 555 m El Burgo, gardens 4073414 Fuensanta 4073075 30S 0324119 30S 0323190 3 Presa del Dique y Azud 585 m 4 Dique de nacimiento, dam 660 m Largo, dams 4072869 4072042 5 Dique y Cortijo de la 30S 0322127 30S 0321109 Hierbabuena, dam and 665 m 6 Start of the path 725 m farmhouse 4071479 4070297 30S 0320975 30S 0320029 7 Ford across Río Turón 670 m 8 Cornicabral (Terebinth 830 m (de El Burgo) 4070316 wood) of Lifa and crags 4070271 9 Mirador del Cornicabral 30S 0319379 30S 0318364 and Torre de Lifa, 890 m 10 Cortijo de Lifa farm 995 m viewpoint 4070033 4069621 30S 0317167 30S 0316706 11 Mirador del Valle de 1.140 m 12 Puerto de Lifa, mountain 1.160 m Lifa, viewpoint 4068913 pass 4068651 13 Mirador de los Llanos 30S 0314754 30S 0311301 de Aguaya and Ronda, 1.040 m 14 Junction of the Venta 780 m viewpoint 4068366 Ramirón and an airﬁ eld 4068403 30S 0309984 30S 0308315 15 Puerto Bilbao, 790 m 16 Recinto Ferial de Ronda, 725 m vantage point 4068763 Ronda fairgrounds 4069625

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 251 VIII From Guadalevín to Guadiaro

A group of walkers enjoying la Laguna Honda or Florida, with Sierra de Líbar in the background La Gran Senda de Málaga and the Valle del Guadiaro de la Serranía de Ronda

La Hoya del Tajo and limestone conglomerates of the Meseta de La Gran Senda de Málaga initiates here a Ronda plateau, with the strata dipping towards series of stages which lead through one of the the west and forming a cirque 1.500 metres wide areas of la Serranía de Ronda called el Valle which follows the river´s direction for about del Guadiaro, which is full of character. The 2.500 metros towards north-south. Its walls river starts in the vicinity of la Indiana. One of are up to 120 metres high even in Ronda itself. its tributaries is el Guadalcobacín, which starts Currently preserved as climbing landscape with at the Puerto del Viento and fl ows through la vines interspersed with serial and dry- farmed Ventilla, Arriate and los Prados, runs to the north fruit trees reclaiming the ancient and long-lost of the Serranía de Ronda region, passing through role. In the vegas (fertile plains) of Guadalevín the nearby excellent cultivated land of Llano de you can still fi nd various family gardens irrigated la Cruz. The other tributary is Río Guadalevín, using “acequias del río”, the river aqueducts, which carves the famous Tajo de Ronda and it or the local spring sources. comes from many sources in the Sierra de las Nieves, at Cañada del Cuerno, under the name The beginning of Río Guadiaro of Arroyo Carboneras. At the point called los You leave this quiet landscape along the Manaderos it gains its River Guadalevín name GR- 249 via Puerto de la Muela, leaving the and as this river it keeps Gran Senda company sandstones and conglomerate rock of the Meseta from the town suburbs in the fl at clay landscape de Ronda gradually behind to fi nd clay which of los Llanos de Aguaya. makes up the base of the river now finally The landscape of la Hoya del Tajo is marked called the Guadiaro. With the change of the by the fl uvial valley of Río Guadalevín, with fairly name the River takes a direction north-east steep slopes which come down towards the and south-east and it will continue so until it River from the many escarpments surrounding it leaves Serranía de Ronda almost 40 kilometres and either reason behind the name Tajo, (gorge). further in El Colmenar. The La Hoya itself (which is sometimes called The Gran Senda de Málaga passes than over Caldera) has been excavated in this sandstone an internationally famous karstic formation. The

252 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga From Guadalevín to Guadiaro VIII

Hundidero-Gato is one of the most unique cave This cave system is not the only attraction systems of Andalucía. It has two entrances, one in the area as there are river sources named in the north, called Hundidero, and the other Los Cascajales, La Fresnedilla and el Arroyo one in the south, which is also the one close del Agua, which are very close to Estación de to the GR, called Cueva del Gato. The system Benaoján. In Jimera de Líbar village there is a has been produced because of the obstacle major water spring abundant in winter called created by Sierra del Algarrobo blocking the Las Artezuelas. fl ow of Gaduares River which comes from Cádiz province, and which needs to carve through the Las Angosturas del Guadiaro rock to be able to continue fl owing. Las Angosturas are a perfect example of The entrance of the Cueva del Gato is 17 m landscape elements which are V-shaped valleys wide by 26 m high. It is a natural drainage basin found in mid-size mountains. Here they are fairly of the complex where Río Gaduares (also called squeezed in between two rocky outcrops facing Guadares or Campobuche) resurfaces again and each other, standing at 1.400 metres high, called joins the Guadiaro. This system consists of a las Sierras del Conio and del Palo. Elevations main gallery more than 4 km long. However, the of over 1.000 metres appear within only 2 km sum of all the galleries amounts to more than entering la Sierra de Líbar and a little further 8 km, with the level difference between the than 2 km in the Sierra facing it. This difference entrance of Hundidero and el Gato of 112 m. In of altitude (50% and 40% respectively) quite 2014 there have been new studies conducted in certainly infl uenced the location of la Cañada order to explore and map the system; already Real del Campo de Gibraltar drover´s track the studies are uncovering some surprises. In which leads along the east side of the valley order to have a general idea of these geological even though this way you need to ford the phenomena and formations you can visit the River twice, at the Pasada del Retamal and caving museum Centro de Interpretación de la then Pasada de Gibraltar upstream. The River Espeleología in Montejaque. serves as a mirror for the two almost identical

La Cueva del Gato during one of the high water seasons. PHOTO: Pepe Sierra

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 253 VIII From Guadalevín to Guadiaro

mountain slopes with oak forests blanketing the limestone at their base and bare peaks of karstic landscape based on grey limestone and dolomite.One of the fi rst obstacles encountered by the train line coming from Ronda were precisely the Las Angosturas rock formations. The fi nal location of the stations in Benaoján and Jimera de Líbar on top of the opposite River banks and the complicated terrain where the reason behind the construction of two bridges (one over the Guadiaro and another over Arroyo del Águila) and two consecutive tunnels around halfway along the train line.Also, trenches and to be build and La Laguna Florida takes its name after the crowsfoot fl owers escarpments resulting from the construction and appearing in spring restoration work at the beginning of the century had to be adapted and protected with protective wire mesh and screens. The most common finish and really easy El Guadiaro which you can explore thanks to to see are the Andalucían Barbel, a Southern the Gran Senda de Málaga is a turbulent river in species which reach quite a considerable size winter, it’s walked areas can unexpectedly rise here. There also are eel, nase, chub; frequently with the rainfall fi lling its anonymous basin which you can observe Spanish Pond Terrapins, Herons retains a good fl ow in summer especially that it is and Mallards, plus, recently, Cormorants. The not regulated by reservoirs and it only generates European Otter has a stable population here as some electricity along a couple of river branches. well. This section of Las Angosturas is a good The River harbours a great diversity of fl ora in place to practice abseiling into the river valleys its double tree belt which continuously covers especially when the high waters subside and its banks. The native crayfi sh has disappeared are more manageable. at their and of 20th-century, fish population however are healthier than ever caused by the The Valley opens up water been treated in Ronda, which little by little From Las Angosturas onwards the Forest should benefi t of the other riverside villages. landscape turns into farmland and animal husbandry. Although the rocky ridges on the right, A climber at Puente de Monos of the Vía Ferrata in Benalauría las Sierras Blanquilla and de los Pinos, continue being at 1.400 metres, the ones on the left are only at 1.100. Moreover, the distance between the peaks of the two mountain chains grows up to 7 kilometres. This has repercussions for their lower mountains. Sandstone and Flysch clay appear, numerous water springs at medium height generate a tremendously diverse landscape but still heavily infl uenced by humans with settlements and houses connected by a dense network of paths. It was in this landscape that the villages of Cortes de la Frontera and Jimera de Líbar were built in front of each other, between the rocks and the hills taking advantage of the

254 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga From Guadalevín to Guadiaro VIII multiple resources of these two very different The massifs of Grazalema and la Sierra environments, spreading into the Valley along de Líbar offer an impressive landscape of the Guadiaro River, completing this way the full contrasting contours of limestone rocks as a spectrum of natural resources. Since its opening result of violent geological history: enclosed in 1892, the train permanently established the valleys in form of canyons, caves, rock faces settlements called Estaciones, the train stations. and cliffs and a wide variety of formations The GR-141 can guide the traveller to explore originating in the process of limestone surface this landscape taking them to another incredibly having been dissolved in remote geological wild area called Paraje Natural de las Buitreras, eras. El Parque Natural is located between and to both Centrales Hidroeléctricas which the provinces of Cádiz and Málaga, covering use the high ﬂ ow of the watercourse and the 51.695 ha of the most easterly part of Cordillera major altitude differences which I accumulated Bética. The frontier between the Muslim downstream to produce hydraulic electricity. kingdom of Granada and Castile between the 13th and 14th centuries, this mountai- El Parque Natural and Reserva de la nous region witnessed many struggles. This Biosfera Sierra de Grazalema resulted in the very compact human habitat The GR-249 takes you along three stages where villages are pressed against the rocks which lead along the border of the natural Park and slopes and as a result are completely of Sierra de Grazalema, considering that a great integrated into the landscape. This cultural part of the Park limit is constituted by the very characteristic is unique to many mountain Cañada Real del Campo de Gibraltar drover´s civilisations around the Mediterranean, and track; a great axis for walkers in the Valley. The it continues until today despite the many date when the biosphere reserve was declared centuries which have passed. is earlier than other similar declarations, on 22 A total of 14 villages and towns have January 1977. The area is also declared as Zona been included, to smaller or bigger extent, de Especial Protección para las Aves (ZEPA), a in the Park area; nine in Cádiz province and special protected area for birds and Lugar de in Málaga province the villages of Benaoján, Importancia Comunitaria (LIC), protected area Montejaque, Cortes de la Frontera, Jimera recognised by the European Union. de Líbar and the town of Ronda.

A group of climbers against the grey limestone with Benaoján in the background and the promenade used by the Great path below

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 255252 5 24 RONDA • ESTACIÓN DE BENAOJÁN: Río Guadiaro Begins

RONDA • ESTACIÓN DE BENAOJÁN 24 Río Guadiaro Begins

ESTIMATED TIME 3 hours 55 minutes Altitude (m) Ronda 695 Puerto 670 Mirador del Puente Nuevo de Ronda 645 Puerto de la Muela 620 Cueva del Gato 595 Río Guadalevín 570 La Indiana 545 Estación de Benaoján Benaoján 520 Río Guadiaro Pasada de 495 Gibraltar 470 445 420 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Distance (km)

LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 12.8 Accumulated ascent 225 Final altitude 420 Ascent km 3.5 Accumulated descent 515 Maximum altitude 715 Descent km 6 Maximum difference 295 Minimum altitude 420 Flat km 3.3 Altitude at starting point 715 Average altitude 525

Summary of this Stage The walk leads along very diverse surfaces: tarmac tracks, dirt tracks, paths and paved pedestrian lanes. It has a very manageable length and a contour of “saw teeth” with a few longish ups and downs. The Great Malaga Path uses the existing walks of Camino de los Molinos and el Camino Viejo de Ronda to connect the starting and fi nish point. The fi rst walk leads through la Hoya del Tajo, a depression situated at the base of Tajo de Ronda, where the Río Guadalevín fl ows. The walk starts at a rocky outcrop and leads directly north until km 2 where it turns west in order to ascend an escarpment located on the other side of the valley el Puerto de la Muela. From this point onwards the walk coincides with a traditional “camino” to Benaoján and another to Montejaque (both descend toward the river) but the latter splits off past an (unprotected by barriers) and then the GR-249 take the direction south-west, at km 5. El GR follows during the next stretch a section of the newly improved Río Guadiaro walk but in order to reach Benaoján the walk takes you up along a pretty path paved in some sections to the Puerto de Ronda. Underneath these grey rocks there is the Hundidero Gato cave system. Before arriving at your destination, the settlement of the Estación, you walk through Benaoján village, where you follow footpaths downhill to reach anew the level of río Guadiaro.

256 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga RONDA • ESTACIÓN DE BENAOJÁN: Río Guadiaro Begins 24

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 1 2 2 3 6.1 4.5 2.2 NO

Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17 Highlights of this Stage The GR-249 allows the walker explore the Hoya del Tajo, a valley carved out by Río Guadalevín, and its imposing Tajo with the famous Puente Nuevo across the riverbed; this is one of most recognisable image of Andalucía. Los Molinos del Tajo, the traditional gardens and Parque Periurbano de la Dehesa del Mercadillo are gradually left behind on the side of the path. The itinerary follows Río Guadalevín through the Hoya and then it gets close to water again when Río Guadalcobacín and Guadalevín join to become Guadiaro. Both the ﬂ uvial plains and the landscapes are outstanding. You will pass by very close to the famous Cueva del Gato, however there is no direct approved access from the walk to it, though you can reach it at the end using a PR walk. The mountain section is included in the area of the Parque Natural Sierra de Grazalema. The travertine Tajos de Ronda house two equipped vías ferrata and there are two more in the limestone of Benaoján, plus a climbing school, all this thanks to a very rugged landscape as it should be in las Sierras Béticas. The area of Estación de Benaoján is characterised by the abundance of ﬂ ower and olive mills, by its fertile gardens and by the train line Algeciras Bobadilla which passes on the side of Río Guadiaro.

• Starting point: Plaza de María Auxiliadora but actually the road is very close to the or del Campillo, in the old part of Ronda left of the walk, from km 3. On the other known as La Ciudad, very close to Puente hand Benaoján is a very good place to Nuevo. stop walking, even though it is very close • Access to starting point: Ronda can be to the ﬁ nish. reached from Málaga on A-367, from Costa del Sol on the A-366, on the A-374 from • No return point: From la Pasada de Gibraltar Sevilla and from Algeciras on the A-369. onwards it is best to continue to Benaoján. Yu reach the old town in Ronda on the • Maps: First kilometres are covered by Calle Armiñán, which connects Puente 1051-III (Ronda) and 1050-II (Montejaque), Nuevo with the Barrio de San Francisco. with the 1051-I (Arriate) as complementary. In order to reach Plaza del Campillo you Next you continue on a long stretch shown must follow the streets direction west. on the 1050-IV (Benaoján). • Finish point: Estación de Benaoján, in the square close to the train station. • District boundries: You are in Ronda • Access to finish point: Access road boundaries till km 8, when you arrive at to Estación de Benaoján from MA-7401. Pasada de Gibraltar, where the track gives • Possible “escape routes”: Up to kilo- way to a path. Here Benaoján district metre 4.5 you can reach the MA-7401 at starts and you stay within it till the end the level of the La Indiana settlement, of the stage.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 257252 7 24 RONDA • ESTACIÓN DE BENAOJÁN: Río Guadiaro Begins

• Enjoy the walk safely From km 4.6 walk about 300 metres along the road connecting Benaoján and Ronda, the MA-7401, passing by the houses of La Indiana on either side. There is no hard shoulder in some sections. A little further you must cross the train line Algeciras-Bobadilla on an unprotected level crossing without automated barriers. This section of train tracks is straight and well visible but you must take extreme precautions in case of fog or Puerta del Viento and Albacara walls rain and get information on the times of passing trains beforehand. Between Benaoján and la long track parallel to the Guadiaro river up to a Estación there is a comfortable paved path but point where at the Pasada de Gibraltar it splits access to it, as you leave the village on the road, off, crosses the river and then continues on its is still pending improvement (year 2014), the road own, downstream. It´s a good option to get to has no hard shoulder and there are a few bends; the cave Cueva del Gato. Your good old friend this means walking must be done with extreme the GR-7 E-4 makes another appearance during care. It wouldn´t be a bad idea to make yourselves this stage coinciding with the PR-A 251. It is the highly visible with refl ective clothing and lights. second stage of the GR 7 in Malaga area, called • Connections to other footpaths and trails Montejaque - Ronda, in other words, leading in The GR-249 and the GR-141 Gran Senda de opposite walking direction to the other two Gran la Serranía de Ronda join here and coincide both Senda walks. At the Estación de Benaoján there with their itineraries and their described walking is a Local Footpath of Parque Natural Sierra de direction. Amongst the Local Footpaths which Grazalema to the Cueva Del Gato, the SL-A 139, leave from Ronda, the SL-A 38 (Ronda, Molinos del which reaches the well-known cave just past the Tajo, Ronda) coincides almost entirely with the GR bridge. At the same starting point as the afore- and separates from it at the Puerto de la Muela, mentioned walk there is another one leading in where it turns back to Ronda through El Pinar de la the opposite direction, downstream, the SL-A Dehesa. Right at this point two PR footpath join the 138 Río Guadiaro, which also belongs to the Gran Senda de Málaga, heading for Montejaque footpath network of Espacio Natural Protegido. (PR-A 251) and Benaoján (PR-A 253). The fi rst one As far as traditional right of way paths are branches off the GR just past the level crossing concerned, you will walk, in that order, along the and leads uphill. The second footpath shares the El Camino de los Molinos, Camino del Puerto de la Muela, Camino de Montejaque, Camino Viejo de Ronda and Camino del Río. Perhaps A few via ferrata climbers with the picturesque Puente Nuevo in the background the most important one is the Cañada Real del Campo de Gibraltar, which coincides with the Gran Senda de Málaga between km 4 and 8, through La Indiana and with the long parallel track to the Guadiaro. This drover´s track lends its name to the Pasada de Gibraltar, a place surrounded by tall poplars where shepherds would cross the river with their fl ocks.

258 GR-249GR-249 GranGran SendaSenda dede MálagaMálaga RONDA • ESTACIÓN DE BENAOJÁN: Río Guadiaro Begins 24

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

he Great Málaga path has already shown you the two tributaries which make up Tthe Guadalevín, namely the Arroyo de la Toma and del Lancero. Originally called Arroyo Carboneras from its source in the pinsapar woods of Ronda, el Río Guadalevín or Río Chico Puente de Fortuna at the Pasada de Gibraltar, which you do not cross gets its name around the Llanos de Aguaya and is joined by one more tributary, el Arroyo easily observe sizable Barbels from the little de las Culebras, just as it divides in two the bridge over the second river, also Spanish Pond plateau on which Ronda was built. When it Terrapins and various wading birds. There is an appears on the other side of the canyon topped information panel explaining the local birdlife. with the three surviving historical bridges, a The thickets of vegetation around the rivers great oval cauldron appears, surrounded by are quite well preserved at the points where huge cliffs, the Tajo de Ronda. you access the river both at Hoya del Tajo and The vegetable gardens and orchards on the Estación de la Indiana. There are abundant river banks have always been quite famous in poplars, ash, willow, and basket willow and in the town and these are the few spots where the clearings there is oleander and bulrushes. Pero de Ronda is cultivated, a local variety The development of Río Guadiaro with its of apple. There used to be various fl ower straight line north-east to south-west can be mills at the gorge´s outlet and an electricity seen from various vantage points when climbing station which nowadays is located in a new up to the Puerto de Ronda. It is here where the spot on the right side of the walk. The excess water expelled from the station fl ows into river connects with its fi rst major tributary Río the Guadalevín at the bridge, which the Gran Gaduares or Campobuche as the latter emerges Senda crosses. from Cueva del Gato. Approximately under Residual water in Ronda is directed into an the Puerto de Ronda, 150 metres below the underground tunnel which the walk crosses calcareous rock there is one of the most famous just before El Puerto de la Muela. The tunnel cave systems, Hundidero-Gato. can be seen as it comes out of the Tajo wall The second important tributary to the newly direction eastwards. The waste water is recuperated Guadiaro is the Nacimiento de carried to the Estación Depuradora de Aguas los Cascajales or del Molino del Santo. This Residuales, visible at km 4 approximately, just emergence drains from la Sierra de Líbar to the before La Indiana and looking west. The new west of Benaoján and constitutes one of the station has allowed the river to recover after most spectacular nature shows in the Serranía a long period of El Río Guadalevín having de Ronda when it carries a lot of water after been contaminated. heavy rains. There are two ditches coming out The Gran Senda passes by the exact spot of the source used for irrigation in summer and where the Guadiaro river gets its name, at a third one a little lower down. The Nacimiento, the confl uence of Río Guadalevín with the as it is simply called, can be accessed easily Guadalcobacín, a special place of the Ronda from the end of La Trocha, however the paved region. The recovery of fish and aquatic footpath adapted by the Benaoján town hall fauna species is quite evident here. You can gives you good views of the entire place.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 259 24 RONDA • ESTACIÓN DE BENAOJÁN: Río Guadiaro Begins

WALK DESCRIPTION

La Hoya del Tajo The Hoya del Tajo (hoya meaning “a pot”) has been naturally excavated in the calcareous sandstones and conglomerates of the plateau of Ronda. They form an oval, wider in the north-south direction, with about 4 km2 of surface, slightly inclined towards the west. The ﬂ uvial erosion of the Guadalevín river built the landscape of La Hoya hollowing out the soft clays and letting the unstable compact sandstone collapse to create over 100 metre high walls. The path uses the The balconies of la Alameda del Tajo and a rocky escarpment old Camino del Campillos to walk down from Ronda. Lined with almond trees and paved with earth mixed with lime, from Moorish times, the sandstone from the Tajo, the path makes a erected in order to accommodate livestock sharp turn to the right, passing by the traditional outside the walls of the city. There were access to the base of the Puente Nuevo, which two gates in these walls, Del Cristo (or Los hasn´t, however, been suitably improved though. Molinos), to the right, and Del Viento to the Also it passes by the exit of two via ferrata of left, which is where the Gran Senda is headed. the Tajo, but it would be dangerous to venture In a collapsed section of the wall you pass on one side you can see perfectly the layers of out there without proper equipment. earth and putlog holes left in the wall by the At the next nearby junction you reach the wooden structure used to build it. Muralla de Albacara, walls made of rammed Beside the restored Puerta del Viento note the high monolith made of conglomerate rock The characteristic shape of the Asa de la Caldera (pot handle) rising towards the sky, showing a texture that is much thicker than the usual calcarenite limestone of the Tajo. Here, exactly in 500 metres, you enter the camino de los Molinos. This road was paved with the characteristic stones during the construction of the hydroelectric power of Ronda in the 1940´s, and this is where you are headed. The round stones that have been making up the walls on the way are now seen piled up on the side of the road and lining the sides of the path known as la Cuesta de Cachondeo (Joking Path). There are some of the best views of the Puente Nuevo bridge and the walls of the Tajo gorge. Next you reach a junction on your left which leads to two restored mills of the 11 documented

2262600 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga RONDA • ESTACIÓN DE BENAOJÁN: Río Guadiaro Begins 24 ones, which were abandoned in the first half of the 20th century due to some serious accidents and the new energy generating plant on the river. The proximity of the irrigation channels of the Guadalevín is noted by the presence of the fi rst gardens, once you pass by the paved road that goes to the station and walk steeply down along the concrete track where you reach the watercourse of the Guadalevín river. There are certain times when the fl ow is so impressive that it may even discourage walkers from crossing the bridge. The river carries water directly from the Sierra de las Nieves. The immediate ascent leads between Rock-dwelling vegetation in travertine rock of Tajo de Ronda orchards and walnut trees to a very particular house where a medieval tower has been Gibraltar which descends to La Indiana between preserved without having been plastered; a livestock farms and the conspicuous chimney building model that recurs in many other proof an old distillery. Just before reaching the perties along river valleys in Ronda. Then the MA-7401 road, pass by on your right the old walk ascends through vineyards, farmhouses school Ermita Escuela; a modern construction and horse riding facilities until you reach one which was been built thanks to the education of the natural exits of la Hoya del Tajo called projects of the Bishop Herrera Oria. Now the El Puerto de la Muela pass, where you get school also serves as the headquarters of the best views over the path you have walked the very active Neighbours Association of La so far (km 3) and where the surface changes Indiana. The small group of village houses from concrete to gravel. fl anks the road. At kilometre 5 you leave the La Dehesa del Mercadillo and road behind to get back to the banks of the La Indiana Guadalevín again. El Puerto de la Muella is an important El Río Guadiaro and the Camino Viejo intersection of many paths. Among others, At the meeting of the rivers the walk starts two PR footpaths which come down from the veering south-west. The ruins of the railway north-western end of Ronda through Dehesa station of La Indiana precede the level crossing del Mercadillo, a wooded area of about 138 (without barriers) of the Algeciras-Bobadilla train hectares of Stone pine with some Holm oak, line. Once on the other side, you abandon the which has been declared a suburban park. E-4 GR-7 ignoring the track to Montejaque. The The predominant direction is now west- walk leads parallel to the railway, the river and wards, leaving the park behind and reaching the edge of the Sierra de Grazalema Natural some old quarries and disused landfi lls in the Park. Cultivated farmland on a slope belongs vicinity of the Central de Transferencia de to the Cortijo Grande and Cortijo de la Mimbre; Residuos Sólidos de Ronda which you pass the landscape seems to duplicate on the other on a behind on your right. This is the right of side of the valley, topped with escarpments of way track called Cañada Real del Campo de sandstone and oak dehesa.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 261 24 RONDA • ESTACIÓN DE BENAOJÁN: Río Guadiaro Begins

The walk passes right on top of the meeting point Guadalevín and Guadalcobacín where they form the Guadiaro river

Benaoján, between the sierra and the river There is a tall ash tree near a water source Walk down to the Vega de Benaoján along which almost serves as a kilometre mark 7. Just a wide track with the old stone pavement 1,000 m ahead you should leave the track and buried under the concrete. There is a metal take a scenic path. This begins at the famous cover at a bend on your left, which is the Pasada de Gibraltar, a traditional transit place protective cover of a small pit. Passing by where it is easy to reach the river, only a few the old landfi ll of Benaoján, almost disused meters away beneath tall poplars. The river now, come to La Vega, a recognizable karst twists and turns a little to accommodate a uvala sinkhole crossed by the Arroyo de ford which usually is equipped with a small la Vega. The broad fi elds perpendicular to rickety bridge thanks to the Legion who is the this track and old village barns have been organiser of the annual race of 101 kilometres. replaced by new housing and some factories The fi rst major climb starts here at the foot making Beoaoján´s famous cold cuts. As you Sierra del Algarrobo, along a slope known as arrive at the cemetery the track is asphalted Los Pajarejos, covered with a dense scrub of again while it crosses the village from north retama, palm, olive trees and some Holm oaks. to south, between kilometre 11 and 12 of Lower down with every step, the ribbon of the the walk. Entering the long Avenida ignore river follows tightly the rocky walls while it is the access roads to Montejaque and Cortes joined by the tributary fl owing from the Cueva de la Frontera (MA-8401) on your right. The del Gato, which you can make out ahead and Avenida runs along both sides of the Plaza below the path. The path passes an unoffi cial de la Constitución. Benaoján station can be and not adapted access to the cave on the accessed following the MA-7401. As you arrive left. Along the steepest escarpments the path at the Benaoján climbing school (Escuela de is paved with stones and is supported by dry escalada) at the sign welcoming you to the stone retaining walls. When you reach El Puerto village, on the other side of the road there de Ronda through olive groves, you will have is a pedestrian walkway, its access has not walked 10 kilometres.. been fi nished as of 2014 in the time of writing.

262 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga RONDA • ESTACIÓN DE BENAOJÁN: Río Guadiaro Begins 24

Once you are on the landscaped and tiled walkway, you have a good view of the gray rocks which is now accessible not only to rock climbers, thanks to a via ferrata, a result of the Plan de Dinamización del Producto Turístico de la Serranía de Ronda, a project of la Diputación de Málaga. Right at the viewpoint above the Nacimiento de los Cascajales there is a ﬁ nish point of another ferrata, in this case designed for children, starting at the river. The scenic pedestrian walkway ends in a second viewpoint where there is a drinking water fountain, with excellent views of the neighbourhood of Benaoján station. The GR takes a small path known as La Trocha to go down to the second in size village of the district. Just as you start walking down there is a Murallas Nazaríes de la Albacara, and the starting small cottage which in the past was used point of the stage on top to store cofﬁ ns. Now it marks the turn off to the right which is the starting point of hydroelectric plant of the Serranía (whose the children´s via ferrata. You arrive at the reinforced pipeline you may have noticed small square of the Estación de Benaoján coming down) and a sausage factory, as you between the buildings of the former central walk along the train line.

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

1 Ronda, Plaza de 30S 0306528 2 Mirador del Tajo de Ronda at 30S 0306373 770 m the Murallas de la Albacara, 700 m María Auxiliadora 4068038 viewpoint 4068048 3 Mirador del Puente 30S 0306226 4 Molinos del Tajo, the mills 30S 0306216 Nuevo en el Camino de 620 m at the gorge 575 m los Molinos, viewpoint 4068113 4068334 30S 0304933 30S 0306152 5 Río Guadalevín 555 m 6 Puerto de la Muela 600 m 4068538 4069058 30S 0302859 7 Meeting point of the rivers 30S 0303167 470 m 8 Unprotected level crossing 475 m where Guadiaro river starts 4069874 4069745 30S 0299729 9 Pasada de Gibraltar, 30S 0301275 10 Puerto de Ronda along 465 m 630 m start of the footpath 4068176 the Camino Viejo 4067200 11 Benaoján Plaza de 30S 0298992 30S 0299124 560 m 12 Start of la Trocha 500 m la Constitución 404066376 4065494 30S 0299301 13 Estación de Benaoján 425 m 4065449

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 263 25 STATION BENAOJÁN • JIMERA DE LÍBAR: Las Angosturas del Guadiaro

STATION BENAOJÁN • JIMERA DE LÍBAR 25 Las Angosturas del Guadiaro

ESTIMATED TIME 2 hours 55 minutes

Altitude Jimera (m) de Líbar 515

490 Mirador de Roza de Cañada Benaoján María del Olivar 465 Arroyo Cuesta de del Agua El Quejigal los Recoveros Río Arroyo Estación de 440 Estación de Guadiaro Seco Jimera de Benaoján Líbar 415

390 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Distance (km)

LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 9.7 Accumulated ascent 190 Final altitude 520 Ascent km 4.2 Accumulated descent 280 Maximum altitude 520 Descent km 2.7 Maximum difference 135 Minimum altitude 390 Flat km 2.8 Altitude at starting point 420 Average altitude 425

Summary of this Stage This is accessible and highly recommended stage because it is one of the routes in high demand with groups of walkers. The possibility of using the train for the return journey, few inclines, and the landscapes of the Angosturas Guadiaro make it ideal for family groups. Following mainly the south-west direction the walk connects Benaoján Station and Jimera Líbar, located on opposite banks of the River Guadiaro, and then takes you up the road adapted for walking by the town hall to reach the end of stage at the village. At first the walk passes through a wooded footpath that climbs amongst the oaks of Monte de las Viñas and than descends to the Arroyo del Agua, turns into a narrow path and passes by an old ruined inn. From this point the walk leads up and down repeatedly to access the river banks or the river tributaries. This occurs at the mouth of the Fuente Enrique and Arroyo Seco. The last time this happens is at Jimera Station, at the bathing area and a pier used for canoes. You will cross the railway line Algeciras-Bobadilla three times, first at the beginning on a level crossing with barriers and twice on a pathway without barriers.

264 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga STATION BENAOJÁN • JIMERA DE LÍBAR: Las Angosturas del Guadiaro 25

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 1 2 2 2 2.2 2.0 5.5 NO

Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17 Highlights of this Stage At least two different settlements have grown around the train stops; there are many orchards and irrigated farmed land with trees, mainly in the right bank and with irrigation ditches coming from the tributaries and not the river itself. In Benaoján this would be the Cascajales river and in Jimera the Artezuelas. The horticultural and fruit varieties of each place are signiﬁ cant, Jimera growing those requiring a much milder climate and little frost. In fact, the mild climate of Jimera Station should be considered an incentive for walkers; it is small wonder there used to be a spa in the area. At the beginning of the stage there were numerous mills, eleven in total. Some of them are at the foot of the path, and others are equally distributed on both sides, sometimes between orchards. The star feature of the day is Guadiaro Valley, which runs through the area known as Las Angosturas (narrow gullies) with the characterised V shape. The landscape consists of gray ridges reaching over 1,000 meters, Holm and Portuguese gall oak woods on the sides and a sizeable belt of riparian wood makes one want to look around at every possible vantage point which there are many of along the path. Another attraction is the plentiful tributaries on either side of the river; some of them carry water year round. Permanent human presence in las Angosturas, the southern boundary of the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, could be described as non-existent. Only if you pay close attention you will ﬁ nd farmsteads immersed in the forest, and the only feasible access is to the ruins of the Venta del Arroyo del Agua, with its threshing circle and paved front yard.

• Starting point: The small square in Benaoján going until the Jimera station or go back Station. to Benaoján station. • Access to starting point: There is a short • No return point: It’s hard to pin-point, stretch of road linking the MA-7401 access but a good benchmark is Arroyo Seco, road from Ronda to Benaoján, very close recognizable because of the location at the to the village. It can also be reached by second railway bridge. This watercourse is train, using the Bobadilla-Algeciras line. halfway between the two stations and it is • Finish point: Southern part of Jimera recommended to keep going from this point de Líbar at the junction of the MA-8307, as going back would mean a steep climb. where the Fuente de Jimera and the old wash house are located. • Maps: Practically the ﬁ rst 7 kilometres • Access to finish point: Jimera Líbar are on the 1050-IV (Benaoján). The rest is reached using MA-8307 road Ronda is mapped on sheet 1064-II (Cortes de to Algeciras (A-369) that connects with la Frontera). the Cortes de la Frontera-Benaoján road • District boundries: you will cross the (MA-8401). districts of two villages: Benaoján up to • Possible “escape routes”: It is impos- km 4.2 (shortly before Arroyo Seco) and sible to get out of Las Angosturas, keep Jimera Líbar during the rest of the walk.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 265262 5 25 STATION BENAOJÁN • JIMERA DE LÍBAR: Las Angosturas del Guadiaro

• Connections to other footpaths and trails Once you cross the River Guadiaro at Benaoján Station you are on the Cañada Real del Campo de Gibraltar, which is the main right of way in the area. This drover´s road is used by two PR paths of Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, namely the SL A-139 to the Cueva del Gato (linear, 2.2 km one way) and A-139 SL Guadiaro River (with Benaoján and its Estación seen from the fi rst hill of the stage the length of 7.3 km). The Cordel del Monte de las Viñas joins the • Enjoy the walk safely Cañada Real at the Descansadero (livestock Just at start there is the level crossing rest area) de la Erilla Blanca (800 meters from with barriers over the railway. You have to the start) and it used to be an important link follow the signs and use the pedestrian with Gibraltar from Ronda without having to crossing section. go via the Benaoján Station. It has no current use and is barely recognizable, although it Towards km 2.5 the walk gets very close is way-marked. to the Guadiaro riverbed. Although it isn´t Past the Mirador del Charco de Tunél there common, when there is major flooding water is a junction with a path going off to the left, can reach an area of about 100 meters. In barely visible, which is a locally signifi cant these circumstances it is best to retrace path to Alpandeire, leading through the your steps, and do not expose yourself to most important property of Las Angosturas, potentially violent waters. the Cortijo del Quejigal, which is not visible The embankments created during cons- from the GR. truction of the railway line have been se- Jimera Líbar and its station are connected cured with metal nets and guardrails have by numerous walks that fan out towards the been provided for the dangerous sections. fertile fl uvial plains (vegas) from the village However, there are some places where this entrance. The most commonly used were hasn´t happened, particularly at the Cuesta those from Huertas Nuevas and the paths de los Recoveros, where there is a concrete chosen for the Great Path of Malaga, known channel running on the side. In addition, the as the Colada del Olivar. There are three or terrain along that stretch of the walk is very four other paths as options, advertised by rocky and there is a possibility you could slip. the village and in perfect condition. At Jimera Líbar station you have to cross Finally, the Cañada Real del Campo de the road twice, and of course, this must be Gibraltar continues downward and parallel to done at the designated pedestrian crossings. Guadiaro River without crossing the railroad Finally, to go up to Jimera de Líbar village except once, over the green bridge. It is you will walk along a paved path, however perfectly passable, and has been approved there are some sections along the road. and designated the number PR A-255 and Take precautions, but the traffic is not too it joins the GR -249 again in next stage at heavy here. Laguna Honda.

266 GR-249GR-249 GranGran SendaSenda dede MálagaMálaga STATION BENAOJÁN • JIMERA DE LÍBAR: Las Angosturas del Guadiaro 25

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

t is in Las Angosturas where the Guadiaro quintessential mammalian river predator, the river, whose birth you had witnessed pre- otter. The Guadiaro thickets of vegetation contain Iviously along the Great Path, acquires its true heterogeneous species, depending on the width dimension of an major river. This is because of the vegetation belt, the type of current and how in Benaoján it is joined on its right bank by open the valley is. There are clumps of willow in the important contributions of the Cueva del all sections, including basket willow, also elm, Gato, the Nacimiento of Cascajales and The mulberry, white and black poplars and tamarisk. Fresnedilla water source (visible from the walk) Cattails and brambles are also common around in just over two kilometres. Furthermore, on the the pools at the more open river beaches. left side there is the permanent stream Arroyo The Guadiaro river course along the relevant del Agua. This important stream emerges a few section described here is perfectly straight (40 º meters from the Venta in ruins. It was one of northeast direction) and very compact, 8 kilometres the last streams which harboured the native, long and with a continuous vertical drop of the non-invasive crayfi sh. Note the black rubber current at 100 m exactly (from 415 m to 315 m), pipeline before crossing the stream; these were i.e.: with an average slope of 1.25%. This, plus used to pump water from La Fresnedilla up to the magnifi cent scenery composed of riparian Benaoján and Montejaque for drinking water. forests, the absence of major dams and good The Arroyo Seco or del Aguila streams do not water fl ow make this section of Guadiaro ideal contribute much to the main river fl ow but in the for white water rafting. Jimera Canoeing Centre rainy season they can gain a lot of water level. called Jimera Vagones has been built for that very The Nacimiento de las Artezuelas is important. purpose, close to the railway facilities in Jimera In summer it is not too big but with enough rain Station, following the tourism development pro- you can see its white cascades across the river, ject Plan de Dinamización del Producto Turístico as you are reaching Jimera. This village and Serranía de Ronda. Cortes de la Frontera source their drinking water here and the excess is channelled for irrigation Flock of mallards fl oating by along the Guadiaro River of Jimera orchards and gardens. It is noteworthy how good the state of conservation of Guadiaro river is, especially since the town of Ronda has started providing the full cycle of water purifi cation. However, there is still some village and industrial waste going into the river. The fi sh population is remarkable, the most conspicuous being the Andalucían barbel but also there is nase, chub and eel. This attracts herons in summer and cormorants in winter, and they are pretty easy to see. You can also fi nd freshwater Spanish Pond Terrapins, and, though not as easily, the

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 267 25 STATION BENAOJÁN • JIMERA DE LÍBAR: Las Angosturas del Guadiaro

WALK DESCRIPTION

Las Ventas of the Cañada Real del The footpath and the river Guadiaro run parallel throughout Las Angosturas Campo de Gibraltar The exit to the east from the Station in Benaoján requires walking across a level crossing with barriers and then a bridge over the Guadiaro. These two obstacles, one of them natural and the other one carrying a long history, will be accompanying the hiker for much of the stage. On the other side of the river a path offers the possibility to go to the Cueva del Gato along the nearby Charco de la Barranca, or following the opposite direction, to the right, which is the GR selected option. Pass by olive grove on A dirt track leads up to a wide area where the left and then on the right the restored mill you ignore a path to your right. This is the Molino de Cecilio. Erilla Blanca rest stop, at a slope populated with Holm and Portuguese oaks of Monte The half-hidden stone paving of the path de las Viñas estate. A little further on there gives you an idea of the importance of the path is a good general view of Benaoján and su- for livestock transit, which is corroborated by rroundings, facing north. From the fi rst high the next house, Venta de María Joaquina, one point you can make out the white houses of the former service stations where food and of Cortijo de la Fresnedilla and the drinking shelter was offered to the travellers of the water pumping station on the other side of drover´s road. the tracks. A steep descent ends at the bridge over the Arroyo del Agua and the Venta built Where the walk touches the river you can see this bridge support on travertine rock; the rock is a result of an old waterfall existing here at another time and in another climate. Among the vegetation that surrounds the Venta there are some fi g trees, still surviving, and even a laurel bush; the silent witnesses to the catering business in a building that had remained standing until the early 1990. Las Angosturas del Guadiaro Now the path really welcomes the walker, it rises again to a hill of pink marlstone, which is also an excellent viewpoint over the Guadiaro and the fi rst railroad tunnel, a little over two kilometres into the walk. Passing on the left the Camino de Alpandeirethe walk

268 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga STATION BENAOJÁN • JIMERA DE LÍBAR: Las Angosturas del Guadiaro 25 descends back to the level of the river in the area where it sometimes overﬂ ows. This is the best place to admire the aquatic fauna, particularly when walking quietly. Here the short stream coming from Fuente Enrique (also rich in travertine) ﬂ ows into the river. At the narrowest part of the watercourse there had been a bridge, now only the two supports remain.

Another climb to the grove of Cortijo del Walkers under the oaks at Las Angosturas Quejigal farmhouse gives the path a privileged position to see one of the most expensive railway construction areas. Along a very short broom, terebinth, wild roses, hawthorn, and so section there had to be build two tunnels and on. There are a couple of pink marlstone rocks a large trench plus a new bridge to cross to which make a potential shelter from the rain. the other side of the river, (the side you are Having passed the guardrails you arrive (at km walking on). 4.5) at Arroyo Seco or Aguila; usually the ﬁ rst Always following south-west direction, name is used. La Cancha de Conio Mountain walk downhill again, skirting the hill which rises with its steep cliff closes the valley off to the above the train line. The vegetation is more east, and then the valley is spanned by another typical of sunny areas but soon the Portuguese railway bridge. gall oaks make another appearance. You will Another walk uphill lets you observe the road easily ﬁ nd gorse, white cistus, mastic, spiny Benaoján-Cortes de la Frontera aheadleading

The ﬁ rst iron railway bridge over the Guadiaro as seen from the walk

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 269 25 STATION BENAOJÁN • JIMERA DE LÍBAR: Las Angosturas del Guadiaro

The summit of Cono in the Arroyo Seco marks the middle of the path through las Angosturas

along the gray limestone where the famous opens up again, having to cross the road on Cueva de la Pileta is located. At the level of the a spectacular iron bridge painted in green, walk but across the river there are the ruins of built in 2013 to facilitate the transit of the Cortijo del Parral. This means that you will soon drover’s road. The river Guadiaro envelopes be at the Cortijo del Palmero, hidden from the walk by another farm in the front. This section of narrow path witnessed an accident which Fruit of the “mad broom” Osiris alba and the railway below resulted in several wounded when an escaped bull charged two groups of walkers in 2003. And so you arrive at the Roza de María where there was a ﬁ re and its remains can still be seen, for example a few dead fruit trees. Next, you will be passing the site where an express train derailed in 1979, fortunately there were no fatalities but a very complicated and expensive rescue of the train engine submerged in the water followed the dangerous accident, which has been registered and described on the Internet. Jimera Líbar and its farmland La Cuesta de Recoveros (beware of the embankment of the train on the right) and the drainage ditch lead to where the valley

270 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga STATION BENAOJÁN • JIMERA DE LÍBAR: Las Angosturas del Guadiaro 25 the path again in its dense riparian wood and walnut trees which give way to the almost completely gone chapel Ermita de la Virgen de Salud. The canoe pier is at the foot of the path. Then you reach the train stop itself where three train cars have been converted into ofﬁ ces and storage for the white-water descents in canoes. A newly built junction on the road leads Jimera de Líbar and view of El Palo in the background to the roundabout where you ﬁ nd the path paved with locally sourced sandstone slabs that the town hall built along one of the roads of the Station; it is the the Cañada del Olivar. The cañada repeatedly cuts across the road between Jimera Station and Jimera village, amongst olives, almonds and dry farmed crops. The entrance to the village is past the public swimming pool and at the source Fuente de Jimera with its inscription dating back to 1789, in the middle of the MA-8307, where stage 25 ends. The Guadiaro passing through Jimera Líbar

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

30S 0299301 30S 0299371 1 Benaoján Station 425 m 2 Bridge over the River 435 m 4065449 Guadiaro 4065323 3 Mirador de Benaoján 30S 0299196 30S 0298829 465 m 4 Arroyo del Agua and and la Estación, viewpoint 425 m 4064812 Venta (ruined inn) 4064102 5 Mirador del Charco 30S 02 98692 30S 0298780 440 m 6 Vereda towards the Túnel, viewpoint 4063777 428 m farmhouse of Quejigal 4063685 7 Mouth of Arroyo de la 30S 0298707 415 m 30S 0298011 Fuente Enrique 4063453 8 Rock shelter 442 m 4062402 30S 0297834 9 Arroyo Seco 408 m 30S 0296563 4062125 10 Location of the famous 415 m train accident 4060569 11 Pedestrian bridge 30S 0296218 30S 0296106 of the right of way path 400 m 12 Canoeing Centre 4060113 390 m over the railway track “Vagones de Jimera” 4059762 13 Fuente de Jimera 30S 0296633 520 m Líbar, water spring 4058399

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 271 26 JIMERA DE LÍBAR • BENALAURÍA: Connecting Valle del Guadiaro and Genal

JIMERA DE LÍBAR • BENALAURÍA 26 Connecting Valle del Guadiaro and Genal

ESTIMATED TIME 4 hours 30 minutes

Altitude Puerto de (m) Benalauría Carretera 990 A-369 890 Partido de la Sierra Benaluría 790 Jimera Cortijo de Siete de Líbar la Dehesa Pilas 690 Finca de Arroyo de Arroyo Nogales Laguna 590 Atajate Judío Arroyo de la Honda Fuensanta 490

390 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Distance (km)

LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 15.3 Accumulated ascent 750 Final altitude 675 Ascent km 6.7 Accumulated descent 560 Maximum altitude 1.008 Descent km 5.6 Maximum difference 620 Minimum altitude 385 Flat km 3 Altitude at starting point 500 Average altitude 620

Summary of this Stage This stage takes you along a beautiful tour halfway up the slope of the left fl ank of Valle del Guadiaro, through Cork oak and Holm oak woods and farmland, until you reach Siete Pilas, an intersection where there is a natural spring unparalled in the area. Then the walk changes over to another important valley of the Serranía de Ronda, the Valle del Genal. Up to la Laguna Honda the walk shares itineraries with the GR-141. The path goes up and down busily, crossing many water courses; some of these are permanent and all of them are the river Guadiaro tributaries. Here the valley is very open, with the pueblos Jimera de Líbar and Cortes de la Frontera at mid-height between the mountains and working fi elds. Having entered the Montes Públicos of Benadalid and Benalauría, you begin a long ascent until you reach el Puerto de Benalauría, situated between the limestone rise of Peñon de Benadalid and Loma de la Sierra. The large number of houses, farmsteads and hamlets along this section is due to an abundance of natural springs and the vast expanse of land suitable for farming. The walk keeps connecting the network of footpaths and tracks until it ends up at the top of the pass at maximum altitude of the stage. The downhill slope is where the two mountain GRs meet again but the province GR then continues downhill towards Benalauría village, and it reaches the pueblo along a section of tarmac with very little traffi c.

272 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga JIMERA DE LÍBAR • BENALAURÍA: Connecting Valle del Guadiaro and Genal 26

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 2 2 2 3 2.5 9.8 3.0 x 3

Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17 Highlights of this Stage The stage is a good example of the identifying feature of Serranía de Ronda, the natural diversity, mainly geological: marlstone, sandstone, clay-limestone based farmland, limestone, dolomite, and chalk. These in turn are occupied by different woods (Cork and Holm oaks with Portuguese gall oak and pine woods) and human use of the terrain (olive and walnut groves, dry farming, dehesa, irrigated farming, chestnut groves) The many streams which come down from the sierras also liven up the landscape with their seasonal or year-round waters and surroundings composed of dense riparian vegetation where scrub prevails. The hamlet of Siete Pilas is an example of harmony with nature where there are gardens and corrals for livestock between the houses next to the cultivated ﬁ elds and dehesas of Holm and Portuguese gall oaks. El Puerto is the natural passage way between this land of Benalauría district and the main part of the village. The landscape suffers a drastic change, ﬁ rst because of the proximity of Peñón de Benadalid and Tajo de los Avionic, two limestone escarpments with a climbing school and two visa ferrata. Then, it changes due to the overwhelming schist and chalk rocks further up which make up for a hilly and densely wooded terrain, where the mountain white villages are nestled. Amongst these villages, the pueblo which is one most representative and preserved is precisely the destination of this stage, Benalauría.

• Starting point: Jimera de Líbar, Fuente and house onwards it is best to continue. Once Lavadero in the village. you are close to Puerto de Benalauría it makes • Access to starting point: from the A-369 more sense to continue towards Benalauría between Ronda and y Algeciras, crossroads or the Ronda road before the village. with the MA- 8307. Another connection with • Maps: you will only need the 1064-II (Cortes the same road starts from MA-8401 between de la Frontera). Cortes de la Frontera and Benaoján. • District boundries: Jimera de Líbar boun- • Finish point: Plaza del Teniente Viñas, in the daries stretch to the old Venta Alfacara, with pueblo of Benalauría. the walnut trees, at km 4.7. the boundaries • Access to ﬁ nish point: Benalauría can be between Benadalid and Benalauría, whose accessed only on one road, the MA-8306, village centres are on the other side of the which connects with the A-369 between Ronda and Gaucín. sierra, have been involved in territorial disputes • Possible “escape routes”: Your main over irrigation rights and use of village dehe- strategic point for any emergencies is Siete sas. Anyway, you will be walking through the Pilas, located more or less half-way through distinct of Benadalid and then a little fence the walk. It is also feasible to go back to marks the change over to Benalauría at km Estación de Cortes using the alternative 8.4, before coming up to Siete Pilas. You stay walk, the GR-141. within these boundaries till the end of the • No return point: Keeping in mind the two stage though you get close to the previous previous options, from the walnut country district again as you climb to the pass.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 273 26 JIMERA DE LÍBAR • BENALAURÍA: Connecting Valle del Guadiaro and Genal

The PR A-255 (from Jimera de Líbar to Cortes de la Frontera) is 12 km long. It crosses La Estación de Cortes and connects only for a few metres with our GR in the vicinity of Laguna Honda. The PR A-255 uses a path parallel to the river, the Cañada Real del Campo de Gibraltar, coming from Estación de Jimera until the junction of the station at Río Guadiaro called Pasada del Retamal. Grazing sheep and Sierra del Palo in the background The PR A-237 (from la Cañada del Real Tesoro to Benalauría) coincides with Gran Senda de Málaga from Siete Pilas till the • Enjoy the walk safely end of stage 26. The main streams can be crossed using the These two PR footpaths are good alternati- light-weight makeshift bridges but there are a ves if you want to do a circular walk between few you have to ford. However, in no case we are Estación de Cortes, Jimera de Líbar and even talking about long or dangerous watercourses, Siete Pilas, combining the two GRs coming even in rainy season. from the river. There could be cattle grazing in some ex- There are two other officially approved tensive farming areas (Andalucían breeds: walks which are described in next stage: PR pajunas, retintas or berrendas). They do not A-238 (from Benalauría to Algatocín) and PR pose a particular danger but neither are they A-291 (from Jubrique to Benalauría). characterised by any special geniality. It is best In any case, the natural passage between to keep your distance, same with the bee hives the valleys from Puerto de Benalauría results which are at km 6.5. in existence of many traditional public paths The worse section of the day is the junction connecting the village to that area, which, lets with A-369, which must be crossed at a place not forget, also belongs to Benalauría. with best possible visibility. The section along El Camino from Gaucín to Jimera is a tra- Benalauría road must be walked according to ditional path which, as mentioned is used by the usual rules even though the trafﬁ c is not GR-249 until the close vicinity of Siete Pilas, heavy. In order to get to the village you will be and Venta de la Alfacara (whose ruins are at the using the old tarmac track with no apparent border of the property with walnut trees). This assigned road number but used by the tough Venta catered to the public at the intersection young locals as a short-cut to get directly to of the Camino with Cordel del Guadiaro to the village square. Fuente del Espino and Camino de la Fuensanta. • Connections to other footpaths and trails The GR-141 Gran Senda de la Serranía de Paved stony path and the summit of Martín Gil Ronda matches our GR up to la Laguna Honda (where there is an option) and then up to Siete Pilas where the other GR heads for Valle del Guadiaro below, to the settlement called El Colmenar and passing through La Garganta de las Buitreras.

274 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga JIMERA DE LÍBAR • BENALAURÍA: Connecting Valle del Guadiaro and Genal 26

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

a Fuente de Jimera de Líbar, the starting point troughs or (pilas) which gave name not only to of this stage, is also known as del Lavadero. the water spring but also its immediate area of LAfter the Christian conquest of the Serranía Benalauría district. The abundance of water here region, the village changed its original Arabic in the meeting point of limestone escarpments name of Inz-Almaraz (lady´s castle) to Ximera of the watershed between Genal and y Guadiaro de Libar, and it was on a stone at this fuente valleys and clay terrain, has made these places where one of the earliest recorded mentions very popular since ancient times. of the origins of the old name was found. La The proof of the value of this important agri- Fuente, which dates back to 1789 according to cultural and animal farming area has been the the inscription, has constituted, until recently, existence of “alcalde de agua”, literally “mayor one of the key infrastructures of Jimera de of the waters” dealing specifi cally with water Libar either to stock up on water or socialise issues in the village, until not long ago. Also, note with the neighbours. the curious shape of the village boundaries of Comparing this side of the valley with the Benadalid, Algatocín or Benalauría which, starting one in front, you will note that the number of from Valle del Genal, extend their territories up streams is much bigger and their water level to the side of Guadiaro in search of the water more constant and signifi cant. You will cross springs of Fuensanta, Salitre, Almargen or Siete the Atajate and Judíos streams fi rst, both being Pilas, among others. A recent remodelling has the longest and carrying most water. They come added six more “pilas” to the Fuente, giving it from the district of Atajate. After that, there is its actual look. As you walk up from the village the Alfacara and its tributary the Fuensanta, in you are accompanied for a while by one of the the district boundaries of Benadalid. Before Siete irrigation channels which carry water down from Pilas and at the change of district boundaries the highest springs to irrigate the plots of land there are the Paliche (or la Vega) and Bovedilla below. There are still in existence a couple of tiny (or Peñoncillo), of smaller size. In the Dehesa de “fuentecitas” along the way, which are worth a Jimera, in front of the Cortijo, there is a seaso- mention: la Fuente de los Garbanzos (Chickpea nally fl ooding area which should have ended up Spring, its water is famous for its properties for being a natural pool similar to one you will be cooking) before Siete Pilas and la Fuentezuela visiting later on. However, the place has been on the incline to Puerto de Benalauría, almost degraded by the silting process and passing at the very top. farm animals. Amphibians, which are present but hidden away under the water surface, do not survive well in the dry years here. The Laguna Jimera de Líbar from the walk Honda, (del Quemado or Florida according to locals) is a complete opposite. It fi lls up every year and is covered with fl owering crowsfoot, with outstanding amphibian species such as newts and Mediterranean Tree Frogs. Fuente de Siete Pilas is located at the Camino de Benalauría. We do not know its origins however the old name was Pilas de Calabrina or Calabrinca, after a rest area for live stock which existed near the watering hole. The fuente used to have originally seven

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 275 26 JIMERA DE LÍBAR • BENALAURÍA: Connecting Valle del Guadiaro and Genal

WALK DESCRIPTION

La Dehesa de Jimera View to Montes and Siete Pilas You must leave Jimera along a side road heading for Atajate which you turn off almost immediately in favour of a tarmac track to the right which then leads along dry farmed fi elds. This is the track to la Dehesa, but the GR abandons it to follow the old camino, still paved with stones and quite wide, lined with Holm oaks. At km 1 this camino connects again with the previous one at the level of Arroyo de Atajate. A gate leads to Monte Público la Dehesa, which belongs to the town hall (Ayuntamiento de Jimera de Líbar) with an excellent dehesa-type wooded area of mixed Cork, Holm and Portuguese gall oaks. be passing by the facilities of the snail farm This is located on top of an isolated island which and some houses and a disused rickety Área generates this acidic soil. The wood has 257 Recreativa picnic area on the side. Having passed hectares. It contains an old sealed landfi ll 8a few by an animal enclosure and a majestic Cork oak metres away from the gate) an industrial building you can imagine the area on your right where dedicated to snail keeping and the Cortijo de la the natural pool should have formed, in reality Dehesa which manages livestock such as goats just a puddle forms after it has been raining. , sheep and cows. The gravel track passes on the right el Cortijo The best views of Jimera de Líbar, north-east, del Pastor and goes down a little towards the and la Sierra del Palo to the west are at the Arroyo Judío or de los Judíos (km 3.5), which can beginning, at the only sharp bend. Next you will be waded through or you can use if necessary the nearby farm bridge named after the stream. The current direction south-west is now changed Recreational area at the Dehesa de Jimera to a decidedly southwards direction. Between farmland and scrubland You enter a much more open area now, with clay terrain where the walk ascends leading through many gates you must close behind you. On your right pass the Cortijo de Bernardito, with the eucalyptus trees, a broad view to Sierra Blanquilla ahead and Cortes de la Frontera in the middle. There is a hill where the walnut grove starts. This is where the old Venta de la Alfacara used to be, now no more than a pile of rubble. As you cross the upper part of the walnut grove you arrive at a watering deposit and then descend and fi nd the footpath. Now the Mediterranean scrubland is replacing the olive groves and

276 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga JIMERA DE LÍBAR • BENALAURÍA: Connecting Valle del Guadiaro and Genal 26 farmland while the fence along the path marks the borders between large houses and gardens. As a souvenir left behind the still recent agricultural past there is a threshing circle you cross just before a few bends which lead to the Arroyo de la Alfacara. At the banks of this stream Oleander is mixed with creepers and deciduous bushes forming a dense tangle. The water deposit you see on the side of the path takes water from the stream, uses the Cynara baetica is a type of thistle, not very widespread and needed amount and returns the excess lower typical of the Dehesa downstream. The walk leads slightly uphill and at the level of Cortijo Nuevo with its turret, you need This sort of open landscape awaits you from to ford Arroyo de la Fuensanta (km 5.9). The now; sometimes through olive groves or wild stream is equipped with a couple of wooden olive copses and sometimes crossing farmland, bridges; however, they are located at the grazing land or fallow land. Keep going through lowest point of the whole itinerary. Thus gates in the fences dividing the different parts you must climb along the substantial copse of livestock areas and pass by bee hives at the of Holm oaks, the forerunners of the closed Cortijo de los Capitanes. A slight descent takes scrubland and woods which cover the slopes you to Arroyo del Paliche (or de la Vega) which on the left. To your right, as before, there are is very closed-in and covered in thick brushwood. clearings composed of the clay soil typical of Las Dehesas de Benadalid and the “bujeos” type of farmland characteristic to Benalauría and la Alquería de Siete Pilas here, and belonging to Cortijo Lobato. LLa Laguna Florida (or Honda) is a small natural pool; an inland endorheic lagoon situated a few Cortes de la Frontera and Sierra Blanquilla at its back metres from the main track. The vegetation on its banks is limited to a few clumps of rushes as the pool always dries out in the summer; however during rainy season the lagoon recovers and is adorned with the white crowsfoot ﬂ owers which are the reason behind one of the pool´s names (Florida meaning ﬂ owery). The lagoon affords good views to Cortes de la Frontera and its sierras and makes an excellent rest stop. There are two walks branching off from here: the GR-141 which leads to Estación de Cortes and the PR A-255. Now the real uphill section begins. First you pass through la Dehesa de Benadalid and Benalauría (which covers the most terrain in this Monte Público) of about 248 hectares of Holm and Portuguese gall oaks. As you arrive at the network of wide tracks, cross Arroyo del Peñoncillo (or de la Bovedilla) and bear right ignoring the track which goes up to the Sierra.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 277 26 JIMERA DE LÍBAR • BENALAURÍA: Connecting Valle del Guadiaro and Genal

The two rock masses you pass on both sides of the track as you set off to attack the steep slope are very different as far as their composition (more dolomite contents on the right) but mainly regarding the type of vegetation they support. On the left, covering limestone rock is the Monte del Cortijo de Almargen y Frontón, with planted pine wood of almost 200 privately owned hectáreas but managed by the local government. On the other side is Cortes de la Frontera from la Laguna Florida in autumn La Cancha, with predominantly prime Holm oak woods extending over 73 hectares which Along the track you are following note the fl ow belong to district of Benalauría, however in of excess water coming from the fuente where the this spot the latter shares part of the land and, Gran Senda is headed. You are changing district separately, part of the forest with Benadalíd. boundaries as well marked by one of the fences This phenomenon is known in the local forestry close to the concealed Fuente de los Garbanzos. language, quite poetically, as “el suelo y el As you arrive at the hamlet of Siete Pilas you vuelo” (land and fl ight) when the land belongs will discover a great fl at area, the Descansadero to one entity and what´s on it to another. El (km 9) where there is the Ermita Escuela school Puerto de Benalauría (km 12.6) is an excellent similar to the one at La Indiana. This Chapel-School place to enjoy the broad views of Valle del is the only one in all of the Serranía which still Guadiaro to the west and Genal to the east; performs its original function, basic education, each one with its own idiosyncrasies; one of forming part of the rural primary school system them broad, steep and wild and the other hilly, called Colegio Público Rural Asociado Sierra del varied and wooded. Just as you start walking Espino, whose other centres are in Benarrabá and downhill with the cliffs of Tajo de los Aviones Algatocín. The walk makes an abrupt turn off the on the left, pass by a faint path to your left GR-141 (which continues on to Estación de Cortes) marked with a “home-made” cairn. This path and changes direction to the east. First, it passes leads to a rock climbing school and the two vias by Fuente de Siete Pilas and then takes one of ferrata installed thanks to the tourism project the traditional paths lined with scattered houses. Plan de Dinamización del Producto Turístico de Las Sierras de Almargen and del Espino la Diputación Provincial de Málaga. El Camino de Benalauría climbs from Siete Pilas parallel to irrigation channel which, higher Andalucían barbel feeding at the Guadiaro surface up, runs through a pipe. It carries the water from Fuensanta. Sometimes it crosses a track but most of the time it runs through the uncultivated land. At the Cortijo Maja (or de los Bujeos) the walk intersects with a new track. This was built to connect with the other side of the mountains, but, most of all, with a quarry in mind or maybe drilling for water. Continue as you were, now on a smaller secondary track and undertake the long last climb.

278 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga JIMERA DE LÍBAR • BENALAURÍA: Connecting Valle del Guadiaro and Genal 26

The GR leads down between sunny oak woods towards the A-369 road, just before it meets up with the Gran Senda de la Serraníaagain, coming from Gaucín and on its way to Ronda. Crossing the road carefully, arrive at the old Venta de los Pavos (km 13.9), at the junction with Benalauría road. A widening in the road, a little lower down, houses some of the leading artisanal companies of the area selling food and agricultural products, plus the public sports centre. The lack of even minimally level terrain around the town centre (which you will be able PHOTO: Pepe Sierra to see for yourself soon) has caused many facilities to relocate here, close to the main La Fuente de Siete Pilas at a hamlet under the same name road of the Genal Valley, even though some infrastructures and equipment would normally second access to the village which becomes Calle need more space. Fuente. Benalauría welcomes the GR-249 with Despite your having to walk on tarmac, the its white-washed houses and the atmosphere stroll along the shady chestnut grove and the of a pueblo which has managed to stay faithful picturesque landscape are rewarding and you to its roots whilst looking into the future with a will be leaving the MA-8306 soon behind (at good understanding of what rural development the Punto Limpio) and will continue along the means.

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

1 Fuente and washhouse 30S 0296631 2 End of stone-paved path 30S 0295772 500 m 432 m at Jimera de Líbar 4058399 and Arroyo de Atajatee 4058000 3 Cortijo de la Dehesa 30S 0294936 30S 0294290 450 m 4 Ford across Arroyo Judío 415 m de Jimera 4057849 4056783 30S 0293939 30S 0293663 5 Arroyo de la Alfacara 427 m 6 Arroyo de la Fuensanta 388 m 4055522 4055049 8 Junction of the tracks of la 30S 0293512 30S 0293697 7 Laguna Honda or del Quemado 440 m Sierra and de Siete Pilas in the 490 m 4053824 Monte Público 4053536 9 End of shared itineraries of the 30S 0293524 10 Fuente del Puerto 30S 0295803 560 m 934 m GR-249 y GR-141 en Siete Pilas 4052743 de Benalauría 4052738 30S 0296094 12 Crossroads of the A-369 30S 0296699 11 Puerto de Benalauría 1.007 m and Benalauría road 820 m 4052758 (MA-8306) 4052361 13 Detour to access 30S 0297364 14 Benalauría, Plaza del 30S 0297720 757 m 670 m Benalauría 4052409 Teniente Viñas 4052261

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 279 IX El Río Genal

Algatocín seen from the starting point of stage 27 La Gran Senda de Málaga and el Valle del Genal

he sector which acts as a hinge between Trincheruelas. All the other streams display the the two rivers of the Serranía de Ronda, behaviour typical of seasonal torrents. They can Tthe Guadiaro and the Genal, shows quite sometimes overfl ow considerably but normally a homogenous landscapes with prevailing they contain a low fl ow. There are, however, woods of Quercus species (Cork oak groves many of these seasonal streams and they make and Holm oaks mixed with Portuguese gall up for the lack of fl ow with their number. oaks). These are interspersed with pastures River Genal has some unique characteristics for livestock. The use of these wooded areas which differentiate it from its “older brother” is mainly for forestry and hunting. There are the Guadiaro, which is also the river it fl ows into a few large private estates, but also Montes close to its mouth. It comes down meandering Públicos. During the previous stage 26, the fi rst in the direction east and then it veers off to GR-249 took you along this “jump” between the south at the height of Alpandeire. It continues the two valleys and placed you in the so-called fl owing south when it joins the Gran Senda de Bajo Genal, Lower Genal Valley: Benadalid, Málaga at the level of Benalauría. Immediately Algatocín, Benalauría, Benarrabá, Jubrique, before that point it is joined by two tributaries Genalguacil, Gaucín and Casares. from the north which compete with the main Between Cartajima, Parauta, Igualeja and river as far as the water volume is concerned. Pujerra you will fi nd the basin of Río Genal, with These are the Río de las Zúas and Río Gorgote. numerous streams draining into it from Sierra The villages in the valley are divided bet- del Oreganal, el Puerto de la Ventilla and Sierra ween the two sides of the river but principally Blanca. Nevertheless, its main tributaries are occupy the right bank, quite high up from the the Nacimiento del Genal itself, in Igualeja, and river bed. The exception is Igualeja due to its Río Seco, which comes down from Sierra de las location at a “nacimiento”, a water source. This

280 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga El Río Genal IX phenomenon of occupying similar altitudes in are the villages themselves. What´s more, in search of better climate and springs and water many cases the riverbed serves as the village sources has been given a name of “rigidity line”. boundary. Even today you will fi nd this homing On the average each village is located from instinct for the “vega”, the fertile riverside land, 200 to 600 metres of altitude and at a very short which belongs to the village and one does distance (between 1 and 3 kilometres) from the not need to overcome obstacles, such as the river. The bottom of a valley has never been a river, to get to it. As an unusual case, only the chosen place for settling down. Even today, districts of Júzcar and y Faraján villages break village inhabitants customarily go down to the above-described criterion and own land on the gardens or the mills at dusk and up to the both banks of the river. As it could be expected, this is precisely where there is one of the best village at dawn. conserved bridges and there is more of a tradition As for human activities, the river has always to walk between both river banks. On many served us as a long industrial estate of sorts, occasions, the spoken word is the way we dedicated to all kinds of manufacturing which fi nd out about the use of the traditional paths required water: tanneries, flower and olive towards the river. River is the reference when mills, tin smelting and the uncountable little we hear about the transport of wood from Las irrigated farms placed around the river bends Lomas, cork harvesting and the fi sh transport on the fl uvial plains Contrary to what one might from Estepona or fruit from Genal to the coast. imagine quite often irrigation water comes The riverbed is also mentioned as a means from the many lateral tributaries and not the of communication with Gibraltar during hot main river itself which is harder to tame. In any summers when its waters were a mere trickle. case, the best geographical reference for these Today the landscape differs enormously from tiny farmsteads called “alquerías de Genal” what the Moors witnessed during the rebellions

Mix of colours in the thickets of riparian vegetation of the Genal

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 281 IX El Río Genal

at the end of 16th century which also marked environments offered by type of soil, the direction the end of a certain era. the terrain is facing, and its proximity to a fl uvial The woods have grown to considerable course. This appearance of a wilderness should proportions carpeting both the shady and sunny not mislead you; the mountain woods here are slopes of schist and chalk which make up the still totally productive. There are cork-related bulk of the valley. One of the defi ning features products, cork and pine wood, and the (more of the woods is their multispecies composition. influenced by human presence) cultivars of The Gran Senda de Málaga runs through a broad chestnut groves. Extensive animal husbandry sector where side by side there are thriving Holm in some extremely productive dehesas which oaks, Cork oaks, Aleppo pines, Wild olives and habitually are located on tops of the hills, big game hunting (Roe deer, Red deer and Wild Portuguese gall oaks together with a great variety boar) are all the other activities which are at the of Mediterranean scrub adapted to a variety of core of a wooded area, together with wildlife tourism which now is gaining more enthusiasts Cork oak trunk after the bark has been removed in summer through the infrastructure of the Gran Senda de Málaga. Riparian woods are worth a separate closer look. An almost century-old lack of the previously intensive human activity at the bottom of the valley has afforded almost total freedom to the riparian vegetation of the Genal banks. It has mainly been developing along the river during the last quarter of the 20th century when sustenance agriculture and farming was defi nitely abandoned, with the added effects of emigration and the population concentrating in the village centres. This phenomenon of depopulation of the valley was added on top of the previous abandonment of the Moorish settlements; large independent farmsteads or alquerías which had managed to double the number of population centres in the valley. With this happening, the double belt of woods along river banks kept reclaiming its habitat with its astounding diversity. Multicoloured contrast of poplars against willows, tamarisks, black poplars, basket willow and alder depending on their habitat preference whilst brambles, oleander, yellow gentian and redoul compete for their little spot in the sun at the bottoms of the valley. The fi sh population is not as healthy as it should be here, their numbers dwindling due to human-related factors such as, evidently, the quality of the water and the entire aquatic ecosystem.

282 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga El Río Genal IX

El Genal is an excellent area for wild mushroom picking, such as this boletus

The proportion of these fi sh species numbers which have been declared Parajes Naturales is opposite to the usual as it is actually easier to or Natural Areas: the summits of Los Reales see the Northern Iberian Chub than the normally de Sierra Bermeja and Sierra Crestellina. The common Andalucían Barbel or Nase. Other GR-249 runs between these peaks towards distinguished members of riparian fauna are the Casares, the birthplace of a Spanish politician Eel, Otter, and Kingfi sher, Grey heron or Dipper. Blas Infante. Despite all these pluses we have not been able And such is the natural scenery, also largely to bring comprehensive type of protection to charged with history, of these two stages of the Valle del Genal. It is not protected under the walk, which keep on calling out to be dis- any laws as a whole, however it does belong covered. The passage from village to village: to the Red Natura 2000 project and has been Benalauría, Genalguacil, Casares; the pueblos declared Lugar de Interés Comunitario (Place blancos which, together with woods and rivers of Special Interest) by the EU. It does contain create one of the most beautiful walking areas in two areas at the end of the valley in the east, Málaga Province, full of well-defi ned character.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 283 27 BENALAURÍA • GENALGUACIL: The Genal Valley

BENALAURÍA • GENALGUACIL 27 The Genal Valley

ESTIMATED TIME 3 hours 50 minutes

Altitude (m) 700 Benalauría El Bailadero 600 Inicio de Las Cruces vereda Genalguacil 500 El Zona de Arabi Carretera Miradores 400 Arroyo MA-8305 Puente de La Benajamuz Molino de Escribana San Juan los Cipreses 300 Pasarelas del Río Genal 200 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 Distance (km)

LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 11.6 Accumulated ascent 370 Final altitude 510 Ascent km 3.6 Accumulated descent 540 Maximum altitude 670 Descent km 3.9 Maximum difference 475 Minimum altitude 195 Flat km 4.1 Altitude at starting point 670 Average altitude 265

Summary of this Stage The villages of Genal Valley are situated at similar altitude on both sides of the river. Villages which are on the same river bank are a different story. However, in order to reach the opposite bank villages, there is no other option but to go downhill, cross the river and climb back up again from the bank to the village. This is what happens in stage 27. Moreover, in case of the two villages, Benalauría and Genalguacil, the are not exactly facing each other, and there is no visual contact between them, so the distance is even greater. As things are as they are, you also need, unfortunately, to trudge along the river for enough kilometres to connect two public paths, having descended from Benalauría before you climb to Genalguacil. The landscape is totally forested, with prevailing diverse tree species, especially Cork oaks and Portuguese gall oaks, but as well chestnuts and Maritime pine. The multi-species galleried woods play a predominant role at the bottom of the closed in V-shaped valley with steep slopes, the kingdom of chalk and schist. Up to the Prado de la Escribana you will be walking southwards, however the last section should lead you uphill and east towards the end of the stage.

284 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga BENALAURÍA • GENALGUACIL: The Genal Valley 27

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage diffi culty required 1 2 2 3 0.3 3.9 7.4 x 3 Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17 Highlights of this Stage Walking along the Valle del Genal is already reason enough to love this stage. Firstly, because both Benalauría and Genalguacil have a special place in the Comarca de la Serranía de Ronda, (Ronda Region) due to the conservation and advancing of their original skills and, especially, for supporting arts and crafts. Next, there are extensive woods of Quercus species occupying the steep hills, amongst them you will often see interspersed Maritime pines. These woods are replced in favourable places by chestnut groves which, to someone unfamiliar, are diffi cult to associate with crops. Also, the list of Mediterranean scrub species both on the sunny and shady slopes is very extensive. However, the star feature of the day is the river Genal itself. It has been recovering the vegetation of its banks, the fertile plains,vegas, and its winding little corners until it has become a river which would have been hard do recognise by its ancient inhabitants. The past inhabitants of the river area had practically converted it into a long industrial estate where millers, gardeners, livestock breeders, charcoal makers, tanners, cork cutters and mule drivers toiled daily to support themselves. The remains and ruins of this old Genal have been left on the banks of the river as a reminder, visible from the ancient walkways which are being used again today. The path will also take the walker along the traditional caminos and symbolical places from the historical or ethnographical point of view, such as El Arabí, Benajamuz, the string of fl ower and olive oil mills, or the Prado de la Escribana.

• Starting point: Plaza del General Viñas, in would be before Puente de San Juan; and the Benalauría. intersection with the path to Molino Almenta • Access to starting point: The only possibility is your chosen point of no return. As for the is to use the MA 8306, which leaves from the second part of the stage, once you have passed A-369 between Ronda and Gaucín. Arroyo Hondo it is best to continue ahead. • Finish point: Pistas Polideportivas Municipales • Maps: The beginning of the path is on map de Genalguacil, (sports centre) close to Venta 1064-II (Cortes de la Frontera), until past Las Cruces. the Bailadero. The majority of the rest is on 1064-IV (Gaucín). • Access to finish point: From the A-369, • District boundries: Up to kilometre 2.9, the MA-8305 takes you to the intersection approximately, where the path to Molino of the MA-8304 which accesses Genalguacil. Almenta is, the district belongs to Benalauría. Starting point is before the village. It is also Thus you enter Algatocín territory, up to the possible to come from Estepona, either directly bridge Puente de San Juan, and considering along the MA-8302 or through Jubrique via that the river Genal serves as a boundary bet- the MA-8301. ween this district and the next, Jubrique. The • Possible “escape routes”: It is feasible to fragment between Arroyo Hondo and Arroyo leave at Venta San Juan, on the MA-8305 at de las Perejilas constitutes the limit between km 7 marker, close to Venta San Juan. Jubrique and the fourth district, Genalguacil, • No return point: For the ﬁ rst section this which continues till the end of this stage.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 285 27 BENALAURÍA • GENALGUACIL: The Genal Valley

It is registered as Vía Pecuaria (right of way) path, second class. It is a known fact that in the past the riverbed of Río Genal itself used to serve as a path, the Camino de la Costa, with direction to La Línea. The riverbed was completely devoid of vegetation back then. Once the water level has risen, paths started appearing along both river banks, especially given the fact that there were not many permanent bridges and the riverbed was very winding. The Puente de San Juan bridge was one of those places chosen to cross to the other side because of its strategic position; it lead along the Camino de Estepona passing through Jubrique. Such was the signifi cance of the The streets of Benalauría deserve a relaxed visit crossing that the construction of the viaduct was started much earlier compared to similar • Enjoy the walk safely places in the region. These traditional paths have been adapted to modern times with the The distance between the starting and fi nish conception of Senderos de Pequeño Recorrido point is very attainable but walking along the (Short Distance Paths). The Gr-249 is accompa- road in between is complicated. It is advisable nied by two short-distance paths on the way to to plan your return or your overnight stay well. Benalauría, until the Bailadero: the PR A-291 The two intersections of Algatocín to Jubrique from Jubrique to Benalauría and the PR A-238 road and especially the little stretch you have to from Benalauría to Algatocín. walk along this road to cross the river Genal must The new Camino de Jubrique from Algatocín be approached with caution. There is no usable leads down to the Genal and keeps on crossing hard shoulder and there are two diffi cult bends before and after the bridge. (km 6.3). the road time and time again until it fi nally matches the Gran Senda de Málaga at its fi rst Although the path which runs along the river intersection with MA-8305 and up to the bridge. Genal has been designed with walking in mind, minimising any risks, the riverbed is quite formi- The A-240 (from Benarrabá to Genalguacil) dable and the water level can rise substantially, crosses the Río Genal through el Prado de la to the point of becoming dangerous. Common Escribana. This is another walk offi cially ap- sense must be used in case of storms or long proved by the mountain federation Federación periods of rain even if it may result in your having Andaluza de Montaña. The walk is about 5 km to cancel your walking. long, takes close to 3 hours and coincides with the GR until the destination village. There is a • Connections to other footpaths and trails Descansadero also used as Abrevadero (former The path which comes down from Benalauría to livestock rest stop and a watering station) at the river has been known as Camino de Jubrique. the Prado de la Escribana, as the Prado used to It used to lead to the other side at the Charco be an obligatory stop along another Camino de Esteban. Locally, the name Camino del Molino Estepona. The SL A-157 Prado de la Escribana Almenta is used more often. also meets the GR in that spot.

286 GR-249GR-249 GranGran SendaSenda dede MálagaMálaga BENALAURÍA • GENALGUACIL: The Genal Valley 27

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

he common feature of the tributaries which Charco Picado and Tomilla, plus there are a few join the Genal fl owing from the right side more before la Escribana. In summer, bathing in Tis their short length and the fact that all the natural pools and places where water has of them start in the vicinity of villages. This been replenished by the winter rains, is a very happens with the Benajamuz tributary fi rst, then popular thing to do in the nearby villages and the Algatocín in the middle and Infi ernillos at there are favourite areas along the river enjoyed the end. All of their valleys are deep, separa- by the locals. ting the neighbouring villages along the bank. El Charco situated at the Prado de la Escribana Although there is a watercourse which follows is a watering trough or Abrevadero used by the this pattern on the left side of Genal, the Arroyo Vías Pecuarias public paths which cross to the Hondo, the presence of high mountain slopes other side at the mouth of the Almáchar and of Sierra Bermeja changes the outlook of the continue the journey towards the Costa del Sol. environment here completely. Thus, both the Monardilla and the Almárchal tributaries start Los Molinos much higher up from the population centres The mills, used either for grain or olives, and this way they are also much longer. They require a somewhat stronger volume of water have a more substantial volume and, in fact, and a more constant fl ow than it is in case of both support stable population of fi sh and both irrigation. The Genal supplies just that and one are called “ríos” by the local inhabitants. In of the most interesting mills is in the area of case of the Almárchal there is an additional Arabí, called the Molino de Enmedio or Tomas´s difference; its source is in the Spanish Fir mill. This mill consists of two well-defined forest, pinsapar, in the Paraje Natural de los parts: one used to be dedicated to making Reales de Sierra Bermeja. olive oil and the other to making fl ower. The All in all, the water dynamics of the rivers façade shows a painting in ochre of the symbol and streams in the Genal differs enormously representing the Calvary with a commemorative from its sister river the Guadiaro, mainly due inscription dating back to 1755 when the mill to the fact that schist and chalk terrain pre- started working. Close by, upstream, accessed vails in Genal. There aren´t any exuberant by a path off the GR just before reaching El water springs, if anything, the volume of the Arabí, there is one of the few mills which streams tends to be more modest and come have been restored in an acceptable manner from more than one source. Drainage during the rains tends to be instantaneous as the ground fi ltering is more diffi cult, especially compared The rock and stone walls blend together to the surrounding limestone mountains which mainly drain towards the Valle del Guadiaro. Contrary to how it may seem, the irrigation water used for the riverside gardens comes from the tributaries more often then from the main river which is more diffi cult to manage. And so, both the Almárchal and the Monardilla accommodate numerous “acequias” irrigation channels and water outlets used for consumption. There are two dams which are very popular with swimmers, close to Venta San Juan:

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 287 27 BENALAURÍA • GENALGUACIL: The Genal Valley

(this one due to having featured in some fi lm Chestnuts and their fruit can be seen up close in Benalauría programmes) and which should be mentioned here despite of its being out of the way. We are talking about the Molino de Almenta, de Piña or de la Máquina Quemada. It is located on the Camino de Jubrique and near the Nacimiento del Charco Esteban. El Molino del Álamo was dedicated to grain milling, using the driving force of water and two stones. This mill has also been renovated as a country hotel. There is a millstone next to the building with an inscription from a London foundry which used to make cast-iron parts for this type of machinery at the beginning of the as you pass el Monardilla, which used to serve 19th century. The mill is situated between Venta as anchorage for a make-shift cradle-shaped San Juan and a campsite under the same name. bridge to cross the river. Currently there is a Another fl ower mill, Molino de los Cipreses, simple wooden bridge there. is tucked away at a river bend of río Genal on El Molino del Chairo used to get water a broad fl uvial plain in front of the Huerta de from a canal from río Almárchal. This mill you Juan Ruiz. This one is easy to fi nd from the path. will fi nd very close to Prado de la Escribana There is a stone on the track next to the Genal, and the Cordel de la Umbría at río Genal. WALK DESCRIPTION Los Caminos de Jubrique and El Arabí In Benalauría, at Plaza del General Viñas, fi nd surprisingly well-equipped Parque Biosaludable the streets Iglesia and Cruz (towards the east) (outdoor gym) frequented by the locals during and arrive at la Fuente de la Cruz, at a terrace their constitutional strolls. which looks down to the Camino de Algatocín, Two paths split off from Bailadero; the PR used by the GR at the beginning. After a bend in A-238 on the right which leads to Algatocín (the the path as you walk between steep slopes with pueblo visible behind the foliage south-west almond trees, olives and prickly pears, arrive at and immediately after that, to the left, the PR Fuente del Chorruelo and turn south-east onto a forestry track gradually lined with more and more chestnut trees. Mixed pine and quercus species in woods of the Genal At km 1.3 you will arrive at an area called Bailadero (dance fl oor). This place was a favourite for fi estas and celebrations as it is located on top of a long slope with a very comfortable fl at area, especially when compared to the surrounding wild slopes of Benalauría. It continues being used for entertainment, as it is evident from the electricity panels installed in a majestic Cork oak, a water connection to the fountain and a

288 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga BENALAURÍA • GENALGUACIL: The Genal Valley 27

A-291 direction Jubrique. On the horizon, in the east, the are white hamlets of Alpandeire and Faraján amongst the grey rock of Sierra del Oreganal and the green scrubland. The GR-249 embarks on a steep descent through a sunny slope covered with a Cork oak grove where you can ﬁ nd Flax broom (Teline linifolia). The wood is interspersed with Holm oaks, Portuguese gall oaks and pines. Pine trees are abundant when, at km 2, 25 you must turn off the track and take a narrow path to the right, which might have Riding the mule up to the village after work crossed the track in a short-cut before. At km 3.0 ignore a less steep path to your left. This path leads to Molino Almenta and was built, due to the fact that in the vicinity Charco Esteban and it´s called Camino de there was the ford over Río Genal along the Jubrique. Meanwhile the GR takes you down Camino from Algatocín to Jubrique, between to a dirt track where there is a wide curve. the mouths of Arroyo Algatocín and Arroyo This is El Arabí where there are a couple of La Pedrera. Currently the building has been houses and two tracks which you ignore (one refurbished as a restaurant however you can towards Molino de Almenta, crossing the river recognise the part where the old inn used to twice and the other one to Molino de Enmedio). be quite easily. There are two campsites on Follow the GR direction northwest, then turn either side of the river, one in the district of almost 180º as you ford Arroyo de Benajamuz Algatocín and the other in Jubrique. (or Benajamón) stream. The stream shares its The path continues at the back of the Venta name with an abandoned Moorish settlement and heads for the latter facility, passing by situated in the Monte Público de Algatocín, Molino del Álamo. Next you need to cross also called Coto y Vega del Río). the El Monardilla river where there are poplar You are now walking through a spectacular and willow copses and later an abundance Cork oak with heath and myrtle. The hill ahead of hackberry, tamarisks, oleanders. There is in the Pago de Higuerón is equally impressive, a slight climb along the bank until a flat area where there are also some Maritime pines. The where there is a ruined house with eucalyptus track arrives at a junction with the MA-8305. trees, called Ventorrillo. This ruin marks the Here you have good views to the Charco Picado beginning of the most valuable area from and a long straight line of the Genal in the nature’s point of view of today´s walk. It area of Molino de Enmedio. The GR becomes is a forgotten, quite enclosed meander of a path and crosses the road twice, takes you the river where exuberant Mediterranean by a water tank and an old sawmill where The vegetation has taken over the old irrigated Great Málaga Path leads down to the tarmac fields. It is worth identifying the components again and crosses Puente de San Juan over of the surrounding fine thicket which has the Genal (km 6.3). developed under the pine trees, Cork oaks and olives: Kermes oak, Butcher´s broom, El Río Genal Mock privet, Hawthorn, Strawberry tree, LThe Venta de San Juan had already been Spiny broom and Lentisc; all entangled by an inn and a small restaurant before the road the many creepers.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 289 27 BENALAURÍA • GENALGUACIL: The Genal Valley

El Camino de la Umbría This place is worth a detour because of its open landscape and to catch a glimpse of the forest tracks leading to Benarrabá (crossing the river southwards) and to the other side of the valley to Almárchal and Genalguacil, resulting in a maze of tracks. If you wish to use one of these tracks to go up to one of the villages, you must explore them beforehand. At the Descansadero there is Holm oak acorns ripening a small park and a few tables and benches. The GR joins the PR A-240 (Benalauría Genalguacil) and the SL-157; it faces a You will be in the company of these plants beautiful uphill section along the Cordel de la during the whole river section of the walk, so- Umbría al Río Genal, also known as La Cuesta metimes mixed with river woods and sometimes de las Viñas (Vineyard Path). Throughout the with Cork oak and pine woods on the sides. ages the path had been gradually enclosed First pass through Huertas de Juan Ruiz, then by the chalk slopes, reaching the height along the track again and climb a little around taller than a person. This happens mainly a river bend where you turn off the track and when you arrive at the fi rst intersection of take a pretty path which leads up and down the the track to Los Duros, in the section where slope, always keeping the river to your right, avoiding the chalky cliffs which the river has the slope is steepest. Before then, there are been excavating during fl oods. a couple of viewpoints over to the Valle del Pass by the Arroyo Hondo, a watercourse Genal where the valley widens, its fl uvial which lends its name to the whole upper area plains covered with citrus trees and poplar where there is a water outlet. The overgrown plantations. riverbed favours the existence of an unusual Underneath the mix of pines, Cork and plant, the reach a large fl uvial plain called los Portuguese gall oaks, walking east, arrive Cuarterones, where there are a couple of houses at another junction. This track is quite sig- amongst the old cultivated land whilst the path nifi cant as it could be used to go down to hugs and follows the ancient irrigation channel. Prado de la Escribana (to the right) or up in The effort spent on adapting the walk in this area was quite major, given the level of deterioration A mix of autumnal colours in the river groves of Genal of the old path. Past the ford across Arroyo de las Perejilas the GR enters an area where the valley gradually opens up until it reaches another dam which has been destroyed by latest fl oods. Walk between a poplar plantation, the river and high chalk cliffs (connected by two sections of spectacular metal walkways), pass through tamarisks, reed beds, willows and white and black poplars until you are very close to Charco de la Escribana (around km 9.5).

290 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga BENALAURÍA • GENALGUACIL: The Genal Valley 27 search of the road to Genalguacil. The walk however keeps climbing quite steeply until you arrive at a small building and begins to ﬂ atten in some sections. The landscape is now much more open and from many spots there are views over the last part of Río Genal throughout the Serranía de Ronda. It is especially worth stopping at a ﬂ at area where the path is lined with tall Cork oaks on both sides. Here you can admire Straight section of the walk along the Genal before Charco Picado the peaks of Los Reales de Sierra Bermeja behind Genalguacil, which is getting closer with every step. To the south you can see Enter the las climb, walking on the traditional another Paraje Natural in the area, Sierra path with sections of access roads to nearby Crestellina. Looking west, there is Benarrabá houses. On your right, pass by the Camino de on the other side of the valley. Small gardens los Limones (which leads down to la Escribana) start appearing along the walk, some with and arrive at a major junction of paths where sub-tropical fruit trees, sprouting around tiny you will find some of the sports facilities water springs. Holm oak, Cork oak and pine of Genalguacil and a Venta (roadside inn- woods become thinner, usually ploughed restaurant). Here, with one of the best views underneath or with hardly any undergrowth. of Genalguacil ahead, stage 27 ends.

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

1 Benalauría, Plaza del 30S 0297720 30S 0297719 670 m 2 Fuente del Chorruelo, 627 m General Viñas 4052261 water spring 4052003 30S 0298385 30S 0298907 3 El Bailadero 600 m 4 Junction to Molino de 365 m 4051638 Almenta 4050427 5 El Arabí (Cortijo de 30S 0299020 6 Arroyo de Benajamuz 30S 0298687 295 m (or Benajamón), stream 280 m Media Oreja) 4050158 4050386 7 Mirador del Charco 30S 0298809 8 Bridge over Río Genal close to 30S 0298993 300 m Venta San Juan 228 m Picado, viewpoint 4049662 4049206 30S 0299173 10 Stone support of an old 30S 0299222 9 Ford across Río Monardilla 221 m bridge pointing to Molino 209 m 4048886 de los Cipreses 4048361 30S 0299264 30S 0297990 11 Arroyo Hondo, stream 207 m 12 Charco de La Escribana and 195 m 4048193 Molino del Chairo (or Limones) 4047260 30S 0298275 30S 0298922 13 La Escribana track 195 m 14 Mirador de Sierra Bermeja 404 m and el Río Almárchal 4047131 and Genalguacil, viewpoint 4046883 15 Pistas Polideportivas 30S 0299536 sports centre / El Cruce, 508 m crossroads 4046885

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 291 28 GENALGUACIL • CASARES: Mediterranean woods

GENALGUACIL • CASARES 28 Mediterranean woods ESTIMATED TIME 5 hours 45 minutes Puerto de Altitude Majada Puerto de las Viñas (m) Loma de las Madrid los Guardas Posteruelas Mirador Arroyo de El Cuartel de Casares 600 la Pasada Puerto del Cuesta de Lentisco Casares la Bañuela La Alharía Quejigal 500 Río Almarchal Cuerda de 400 los Coloradillos Castañar Arroyo 300 Zaharames Genalguacil 200

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Distance (km)

LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 20.5 Accumulated ascent 770 Final altitude 365 Ascent km 7.7 Accumulated descent 880 Maximum altitude 640 Descent km 7.4 Maximum difference 510 Minimum altitude 128 Flat km 5.4 Altitude at starting point 530 Average altitude 418

Summary of this Stage Along just a little over 20 kilometres, the Gran Senda de Málaga undertakes the task of leading you from the dense woods of the shady slopes in the Valle del Genal, with its river running along on the right, to the fi rst views of the Mediterranean. In order to achieve this goal, the walk follows quite a demanding itinerary, under the shade of the great Cork oaks, Portuguese gall oaks and Aleppo pines. It leads along traditional paths between the villages of starting point and destination and the ones which go to Benarrabá, on the other side of the river. The walk heads in a north-south direction in general; however it also makes two loops: fi rst one at the beginning, eastwards, and then another one to the west. The walk goes back to the main direction in its fi nal section. The walk uses mainly forest tracks but also some of the few livestock paths which are still in existence, especially the ones which are used to ford streams and rivers. These are tributaries of the river Genal and their headwaters are in the nearby Sierra Bermeja. Thus you are facing a stage featuring a few ups and downs to and from the bottom of the valleys, but, altogether, it is very comfortable to walk due to a good design of the ancient paths.

Highlights of this Stage During this stage you will be walking through 20 kilometres of woods, with noticeable subtle nuances between their different parts. Sometimes the woods are tamer, Cork oak dehesa style, or they turn into chestnut groves featuring the highest possible level of human intervention without losing their status of a forest. Other times the woods become a multi-coloured mix of Portuguese gall oak, Cork oak, and pine tangled with honeysuckle and shrubs. The use of these forests is mainly big game hunting and simply

292 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga GENALGUACIL • CASARES: Mediterranean woods 28

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 2 2 2 3 2.1 14.7 3.7 x 4 Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17

obtaining wood and cork. However, there also are many country houses here, not only close to the villages but also in the heart of the woods. Many of these form part of fi sh farms but others can vary from luxurious mansions which are only used for short breaks, to isolated, almost spiritual places, far from the mundane noise where you can commune with nature. These are many different ways of life in the forest and you can witness them all along the walk. The woods are evidently very attractive but the rivers are the backbone of the walk. Only the Almárchal maintains a stable population of fi sh but the other rivers are important for many invertebrates and their predators, such as the Dipper, considering how clean the waters are. The GR-249 helps you get close to the numerous vegetable and fruit gardens and the fertile fl uvial plains called vegas. The most outstanding ones are found half-way through the walk at the Molino de los Zaharames and, already on the other side of the Genal, at Los Pepes. Both places are sites of undoubted ethnographical interest. Finally, the network of “caminos tradicionales” has always been very important around here as the Puerto de los Guardas and Puerto de las Viñas are the best options to cross over from the sierras to the sea and vice versa. This was a chosen place to transport forestry and horticulture products to the coast and fi sh and other products coming from the sea back inland. A special mention must go to the succession of viewpoints overlooking the villages of Genal Valley (Gaucín, Benarrabá, Algatocín and Genalguacil) with their white houses surrounded by trees and grey ridges. Cols and slopes, valleys and corners which allow the walker to fi ll their rucksacks with images of a very well preserved landscape full of traces of ancient traditions existing side by side with new kinds of activities integrated with the forest environment. Welcome to the woods.

• Starting point: Mirador de los Poyetes or de la Lomilla, to Puerto del Lentisco. In the fi nal section of the stage, in the southern tip of Genalguacil, very close to the the only recommended way to retrace your steps is to church and at the end of the street Calle Real. There use the GR. At Vega de los Zaharames, there is the is a car park at the starting point. possibility to cross the river Genal using a suspended • Access to starting point: Genalguacil connects with bridge, arrive at Los Pepes, where it is normal to come the rest of the Serranía de Ronda via the MA-8304 and across people. Another quite diffi cult option would be to the MA-8305, which lead towards the Ronda-Algeciras continue to Benarrabá or Gaucín, having walked many road (A-369). On the other side from Estepona on the kilometres of tracks in a network which requires good Costa del Sol, the MA-8301 goes up to the Puerto de knowledge of the intersections. Peñas Blancas. This opens the possibility of connecting • No return point: At La Vega de los Zaharames you with the village from Jubrique or arriving on the MA- will fi nd yourself at half-way point of the walk which 8302 directly. It passes by the village hotel but is still not paved in sections. means that it is best to continue from here on, rather than trying to get back. Another key point is the Puerto • Finish point: Plaza de España, in the centre of Casares. del Lentisco during the fi rst half of the walk. From this The main streets which end here are the Calle de la Carrera and Calle Juan Cerón. pass, Genalguacil is a stone´s throw away, and this point is highly recommended as an escape route if necessary. • Access to fi nish point: Casares also connects with the Serranía de Ronda and with the Costa del Sol. If • Maps: A little more than half of the itinerary is mapped you are coming from inland use the A-7150 which on the 1064-IV (Gaucín). From the so-called Mirador connects with the A-377 (Gaucín-Manilva). The above de Sierra Crestellina (km 13), use the 1071-II (Casares). mentioned road also connects with the Costa del Sol, • District boundries: At km 9.7, the Vega de los Zaharames passing through Manilva, or directly via the MA-8300. (or Aljarames), marks the change of district boundaries • Possible “escape routes”: The only two possibilities from Genalguacil, which you walk through during the are retracing your steps or continuing to the end. For fi rst kilometres, to Casares, when you enter Monte del the fi rst option it is best to use the GR or the circular Duque. Until the end of stage 28 you walk through the PR (this is a shorter way to Genalguacil) which leads birth place of the Spanish politician, Blas Infante (Casares).

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 293 28 GENALGUACIL • CASARES: Mediterranean woods

There are 40 kilometres of mountain roads with vehicle access between Genalguacil and Casares, which, again, stresses the importance of good planning, either for your return, or, even better, an overnight stay between the starting and fi nish point. There is only one natural spring along the whole way, Fuente de Arquita (or Arqueta), but it is almost at the end of the walk and already very close to Casares. • Connections to other footpaths and trails Fortunately, both Genalguacil and Casares have bet heavily on their network of footpaths, both the offi cially approved ones by the Federación Andaluza de Montaña and the ones sponsored by the towns and other Polipodium ferns at la Casa del Helechal entities. So far Genalguacil boasts three Senderos de Pequeño Recorrido. The PR A-240 from • Enjoy the walk safely Benarrabá to Genalguacil connects both villages You will have to cross four or fi ve watercourses on the east-west axis, crosses the river Genal but only two of them are of any concern. El Arroyo via El Prado de la Escribana and coincides de los Zaharames, about half-way into the walk with stage 27 of the Gran Senda de Málaga has two makeshift bridges at the lowest point, along the Vereda de los Limones. This route one of them quite eye-catching as it is made up becomes circular if you use the Camino de of one single log. It is up to you whether you las Cañas which also arrives at las Cruces, prefer to use these bridges or wade through. It close to the centre. is important to stress here that trying to go back The PR A-241 from Genalguacil to Jubrique at this point of the walk could lead to a serious is situated north of the village of the starting disappointment. Fortunately, with the fi rst steps point and crosses the river which is already of the stage, at km 3.5, you come across the ford familiar to the visitor, the Monardilla. You can across Río Almárchal which is a good indicator also walk there and back, following the signs of water levels of the day. This permanent river along the Loma de Benajarón. The PR A-242 is the biggest watercourse of stage 28 and so from Genalguacil to Los Reales is a long track it marks the top level of difficulty related to which turns into a road. It is considered ideal watercourses on the day. If it doesn´t pose any for mountain biking and it partially coincides danger, the following streams will not, either. Los Montes del Duque, and other, less famous with our GR for only a few metres at km 1.8, areas, manage big game and organise hunts at Puerto de la Loma. from time to time. The legislation requires that The walk which does coincide with the the hunt areas are clearly marked, especially GR quite a lot is the circular walk of Puerto around the GR-249. When there is a hunt on, del Lentisco. Until a fl at area on the mountain under no circumstances should you ignore signs slope they coincide entirely as it is evident and warnings. Hunting and walking in the same from the yellow and white path markings. From area should be able to be compatible, so, on the this point though, which is also the maximum one hand you must scrupulously adhere to the altitude point, the alternative route described sign-posted GR path, and on the other, walk as above heads direction west again, towards quietly as possible. Almárchal along the Loma de Benestepar

294 GR-249GR-249 GranGran SendaSenda dede MálagaMálaga GENALGUACIL • CASARES: Mediterranean woods 28

and returns to Genalguacil using a walk called Vereda de la Cuesta de lo Rozado. THE RIVERS AND THE WATER As far as traditional paths and rights of way are concerned, the ierra Bermeja harbours a small water basin main “camino tradicional” is the one in its western fl ank. The GR-249 visits it which leads from Genalguacil to Casares Sduring the current stage. Many gorges have connecting the passes of Lentisco and their origins in the imposing peridotitic mass, in Las Viñas. These are used almost point the long string of peaks formed by Los Reales to by point, except where you walk through the south, and Puerto de Peñas Blancas, Cerro Los Montes del Duque. In the middle de la Herradura, Alto del Porrejón and Cerro part of the walk which coincides with Nicola completing the chain in the north. All of the Montes del Duque property there is the gorges lead to the Almárchal river before the a triangle of livestock paths between the point where the GR fords it, except for the ravine above-mentioned passes and the area of of Arroyo de la Pasada which joins it lower down. Pepes and Molino de los Zaharames. The The major watercourses are Arroyo del Estercal, two caminos with destination Benarrabá Arroyo del Quejigo, la Garganta del Algarrobo start here and they separate as they cross (which comes down from the pinsapar of los the river Genal, on their way to the two Reales) and Arroyo de la Cueva del Vaque (or de mountain passes. Additionally, there are a Vázquez) which enters from south-east exactly couple of paths which lead to the famed where it intersects with the Great Málaga Path Baños del Duque, to the west of the route at the Charco de la Vega. El Almárchal is an and at the base of Sierra Bermeja. Lastly, important river both because of its length and there is a path which unites Estepona the volume of water it carries. Actually, there with Gaucín and ends up at Puerto de are mills and gardens along its entire length los Guardas, having passed through the and it supports a healthy population of Chub Monte de La Acedía which forms part of (Squalius malacitanus), a species which has been stage 29. recently described as endemic to the province Already in the vicinity of Casares, el and specifi cally the rivers around Sierra Bermeja. Paraje Natural de Sierra Crestellina boasts a The river Almárchal fl ows into the Genal in a walk which leads along the Paraje´s peaks, spot which, again, is familiar to the Gran Senda called Crestellina Natural. It starts at the de Málaga already, a place called el Prado de road, leads uphill along a partially paved la Escribana. track (the same one which is used by the GR-249 on its way down) and in Puerto de las Viñas heads for a mountain refuge and Genalguacil from the Vallivana house arrives at Mirador de la Cosalba, direction south. Then it leads down to the road and completes the circle. This walk is offered by the Casares Town Hall as Ruta Circular Número 1, sign-posted and marked with informational panels. This walk is joined by another one forming an extensive network which will be described in the next stage where the network shares the natural environment with the GR.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 295292 5 28 GENALGUACIL • CASARES: Mediterranean woods

All of these mountain streams support a to be covered with a dense Mediterranean lot of aquatic invertebrates, where one needs scrub where brambles prosper. to highlight the Dragon and Damselfl ies; their Starting from the Puerto de los habitat is also frequently visited by the Dipper. Guardas the schist terrain turns to limestone This also occurs in another watercourse, Arroyo and thus there is a change in the hydrological de los Zaharames, in the very heart of Monte nature of the surface. El Arroyo de Albarrán del Duque formed by Garganta de los Baños fl ows along the bottom of a steep ravine down and Garganta de la Cuesta ravines (the latter to Casares. Half-way on the Camino de las one is more to the south). The importance Viñas there is a lowering where the water of the water basin of this stream lies in the supply for Casares is located. A little lower splendid Portuguese oak grove it harbours, down you arrive at the Fuente de la Arqueta visible from many vantage points provided (or Arquita), which, together with the Fuente by the walk on the way down to the ford and de Carlos III at the end of this stage, constitute then on the way up. the remaining components of a water supply The predominant vegetation around the system fi nanced by the king nicknamed “the rivers and streams where the GR crosses them hygienist”, in 1785, by the means of ceramic is composed of oleanders, willows, reeds and, channels with gravity pumps and a network most of all, tamarisks. The expanse and bareness of siphons. La Fuente de la Plaza de España, of the main watercourses is striking; it is due to destination point of this channelling system their torrential nature during the rainy season, is one of the most beloved monuments by proliferation of old cultivated vegas and the the Casares inhabitants due to its history hostile nature of the travertine rock devoid of and unique architecture of the construction soil. The tiny streams on the other hand tend made of sandstone blocks. WALK DESCRIPTION The Río Almárchal basin EThe walk starts in Genalguacil heading Poplars and Nettle trees. Another section of east from the Mirador de los Poyetes (or de la the walk passes by La Casa del Helechal with Lomilla), and is surrounded by sculptures. First views to Genalguacil, amongst Chestnuts, Cork metres lead through the Cerecillo area along oaks and Almond trees, until it arrives at a dirt a faint path which crosses a lovely population track which actually is the road to El Puerto of acanthus tucked away at a small stream de Peñas Blancas. A few metes away, at the very close to the village. Next the old camino Puerto de la Loma, the walk bears southwards turns into a track lined with small terraces in along a narrower track which keeps climbing the steep chalk slopes where a few olives and prickly pears grow. On the escarpments, where Cork oaks on the Bañuela path the path used to lead, you can see Holm oaks and Cork oaks whilst the olive grove gives way to small vegetable gardens; a sign that you are arriving at the fi rst stream, Arroyo de la Pasada (km 1.1), which you need to ford and which normally maintains a trickle of water and a few Great Yellow Gentian plants under the few

296 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga GENALGUACIL • CASARES: Mediterranean woods 28 and passes on the right ruins of an old wine press and winery marked with a panel bearing the curious name of Nuestra Señora de Vallyvana, an image of Mother Mary which is actually worshiped in Morella (Castellón). The ﬁ rst vantage point of the path is the Loma de las Posteruelas, where the olive grove co-habits with Holm oaks and ruins of houses and huts. As you start walking downhill, there is a gate which leads to a couple of good viewpoints to the pueblos of the Bajo Genal Vega del Almárchal, La Mandanga or Las Madres (Genalguacil, Algatocín, Benarrabá and Gaucín with its castle called Castillo del Águila), in the shade of Maritime pines. Behind a bend, las Rozas. This path soon runs into a broad track the broad landscape you can see (km 2.4) which surrounds a house and vegetable gardens consists of Sierra Bermeja ahead, with the in a shady Cork oak grove, and continues along. sharp silhouettes of Spanish Fir trees and The Cork oak and Portuguese gall oak woods cover these slopes together with their cohort of telecommunications antennas on top of the lentiscs, Spiny broom, Mock privet, Tree heath, reddish summits; towards south-east is the Mediterranean buckthorn and Polipodium and Loma de Benestepar where there is an ancient other ferns, especially around Arroyo de la Zarza, depopulated Moorish settlement. which you should be able to ford without any Pass through a gate and embark upon a problems. A little later the forest contains Cork spectacular descent amongst ancient Cork oaks on both sides of the path where the size of oaks. The path, deeply enclosed between chalk the trees is surprising. From here you are able and quartz, is the Cuesta de la Bañuela. Now to see the white village of Genalguacil again, there are good views over to the Río Almárchal especially when you get close to another land- valley, with the striking ranch at the Vega mark of the day, El Puerto del Lentisco (km 6.0). de Don Juan with its perfectly circular front pavement. Then the path gets a little wilder La Alharía as it turns west and passes by a sunny rocky Three paths arrive at Puerto del Lentisco from slope which is tremendously steep. The old Genalguacil. Apart from the above-mentioned livestock path, at times its sides protected by one, the most evident one is the path which leads retaining dry stone walls, passes goat sheds straight down to the pueblo, slightly direction at the Mandanga (or las Madres) and takes north-east, descending along the Vereda del you to the meeting point of the Almárchal Calvo and ascending along the Cuesta de lo river and the ravine Garganta de la Cueva del Rozado. The other walk uses the main track of Vaque, where a striking rocky outcrop marks Loma de Benestepar, which heads north-west the Charco de la Vega (km 3.5). in a curve then descends to the Almárchal and Having waded across the river and gone goes up along the same path as the previous through another gate, immediately abandon walk. However, you need to make a half-turn the little access track to la Vega de los Almeces and head south along abroad track which leads and el Cortijo de la Vainilla, and ﬁ nd again the along all the numerous housesin the midst of a old path which goes up through the Paraje de Cork oak wood. Little by little the landscape is

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 297 28 GENALGUACIL • CASARES: Mediterranean woods

intersection of forest tracks where you abandon el Camino de Casares, which you see continuing straight ahead along very dense wood. Take the zigzag leading west and this way you arrive at the edge of Monte del Duque. Los Montes del Duque This hunting estate with over 2.000 hectares of land where the quite abundant wild boar roam, together with Red Deer, Moufl on, (very scarce) Roe Deer and Fallow Deer, occupies mainly the basin of the Arroyo de los Zaharames and the Garganta de las Alberquillas, more to the south, bordered along the west-east axis by the Genal and Sierra Bermeja respectively. The walk through the estate starts by des- El Río Almárchal con Las Posteruelas y La Bañuela cending along a sharp ridge which is also the property line where an access road has cut the old path in two, whose bends appear opening up towards your right where you can on both sides. The area being exposed to gaze at the poplars of the Genal river and the sunshine as it faces south makes the Cork vegas of los Pepes, la Gamona and los Lobos oak, Maritime pine and thick scrub of quite amongst the tree mass. Two outstanding masses tall Gum cistus prosper. There are a couple of of limestone rock close the valley off to the examples of large Cork oaks and then a ruin on south-west and mark an end to the Serranía de your left, half way along the path which leads Ronda, Sierra Crestellina on the left and on the to a more open area from where you can see other side of the river behind Gaucín, el Hacho. the bends and fl uvial plains of the Arroyo de los There are some orange groves and access roads to the many different houses continue, somewhat separate from the main track and boasting a diversity of construction styles. There are three tiny streams before you reach La Alharía: la Fuente del Gas, el Arroyo de los Adrianes and Los Caldereros. The three of them are quite meagre but in the middle of the two last ones there are some of the wine- presses where the local liquor “aguardiente” used to be produced. They are located at an intersection of locally signifi cant paths. Thus you reach the Puerto de Barrionuevo, passing by a hillock on your right. Behind it there are the main buildings of La Alharía, (or Ajería, as it is shown on older maps). A little further there is a many-branched

298 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga GENALGUACIL • CASARES: Mediterranean woods 28

Aljarames. This is a name with deep Andalusí The next easily identifi able landmark is la (Moorish- Andalucían) roots many of which Huerta de Crespillo, a fertile ledge where some appear often in the area. Reach the tamarisk citrus fruits are protected by an old ruined house. thickets and reed beds at the ford which had Here another great walk through mature scru- been adapted in the past by adding a thick tree bland begins; it is recommended to undertake trunk which still can be useful to ford the stream this section by making stops where the terrain in high water season. Access a wider track on requires them. your left, with a heathland and avocado trees The first excuse to stop is a little forest surrounding it. If you decided to discover how of Laurustinus (Viburnum tinus) hugging the the river Genal fl ows through these lands you Strawberry Trees in the shady sharp bends of would have needed to take a detour to your the track. Arriving at la Ensillada del Amolador, a right before and passed through el Molino de small col over a slope, you will have river Genal los Zaharames with its spectacular acequia and to the west and the Garganta de la Cuesta to a deep natural pool in a tamarisk clump. There the east, fl owing in opposite directions. There is is an old suspended bridge which allows you another steep slope where the many bends help to cross the river to los Pepes. conquer it, called Cuerda de los Coloradillos, due Having ignored this option, you must abandon to the reddish colour of the ground. the forest track soon and go through another Normally during this ascent the top of the slope gate to Monte del Duque walking along a road is passed by on your left. There are some clearings which has branched off the path. You are again along the watershed where the views open up to walking southwards. Los Zaharames are at very the west (Gaucín and Castillo del Águila) and east low altitude of 130 metres above sea level (Sierra Bermeja). This is especially remarkable and they mark km 9.5 of the walk. This isn´t a around an old forest guard house which can be bad rest stop, considering that the walker is found at km 11.5, where thewhere the steep slope warned here about the long 7.5 km of a climb levels out a bit. The dehesas of large Cork oaks leading to el Puerto de las Viñas (640 m) and continue, but you enter an area of Portuguese more than 500 metres of gradient. gall oaks past a junction when you pass a shady

Broad views of Genal Bajo with Genalguacil in the foreground and Benalauría and Algatocín to the right

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 299 28 GENALGUACIL • CASARES: Mediterranean woods

Sierra Crestellina and el Arroyo del Albarrán You are still on an incline, although much less steep, Sierra Crestellina is getting closer and you access an important “communication hub”: the pass called El Puerto de los Guardas. It is easy to identify as from this vantage point you can see clearly for the fi rst time, the sea, which is the traditional destination of this path, towards Estepona walking down La Acedía. Our path, however, keeps on climbing a little and comes out at El Monte del Duque leading to a gate next to a private track. Valle del Almárchal and Sierra Bermeja At the Puerto de las Viñas (km 17.1) there is an information panel awaiting you, which area underneath a hillock of El Puerto Paloma. announces the end of the Crestellina Natural Amongst the handsome grove of Portuguese walk, where motor traffi c is banned as this oaks there are heaths and a few striking large is the very beginning of the Natural Area, Myrtle bushes. Coming back to the sunny side the Paraje Natural. El Camino de las Viñas of the slope, past a junction with its distinctive begins now to descend using a track with a large chalky rock, there is an excellent natural surface of loose rocks which passes by Arroyo viewpoint to the northern bastion of the Sierra del Albarrán on the right and the contours Crestellina on the other side of la Garganta de of mountain ridges which accompany the la Alberquilla ravine. Next, a fl atter area starts path direction south. which has been taken advantage of by the estate workers to restore a building known as A ruin between Arroyo de Caldereros and los Adrianes el Cuartel (km 13.7), create a chapel, build some storage and a helipad. The itinerary, always respectful of the private property of Monte del Duque, also passes, by, away from the track, the offi ces and main residence of the large livestock refuge called la Majada de Madrid, enclosed by a row of hedges and Cipreses. There are also very well developed specimens of Cork and Portuguese gall oak here. The traditional cork harvest in this estate was the motive behind the construction of warehouses annexed to the house known as the Raspadero, where cork sheets are cut, piled up for storage and then transported out of the mountains.

300 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga GENALGUACIL • CASARES: Mediterranean woods 28

Country houses appear on the left and on the right; some of them have very emotive names written on the entrance gates you can see while you walk along a low area where there is a water outlet for Casares. The stream keeps getting more overgrown with pines, Cork oaks, Holm oaks, Wild olives. The Great Málaga Path keeps getting higher away from the bottom of the valley. Finally, you catch a glimpse of Casares ahead. The village has been Sierra Bermeja and Montes del Duque on an autumn day built amongst cliffs and sharp peaks, and the Mediterranean in the background. This natural viewpoint and the following rest stop with a feel of foreign lands give access to Fuente de la Arqueta (or de la Arquita). Now what you have left to do is to arrive at the by-pass road to Casares, cross it and follow the streets southwards towards the centre of the village, la Plaza de España, where the four spouts of la Fuente de Carlos III mark the end of this stage and start of the next one. The abandoned Huerta de Crespillo located within a private estate

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

1 Genalguacil, C/ Real Mi- 30S 0299874 2 Ford across Arroyo de la 30S 0300592 530 m 430 m rador de los Poyetes, street 4046656 Pasada 4046237 3 Mirador de Genalgua- 30S 0299857 4 Mirador de Sierra Bermeja, 30S 0299803 503 m cil, Algatocín, Benarrabá 527 m viewpoint and Gaucín, viewpoint 4045613 4045512 30S 029912 30S 0298846 5 Ford across Río 273 m 6 Puerto del Lentisco, pass 400 m Almárchal in la Mandanga 4044871 4044840 8 Ford across Arroyo de los 30S 0297090 7 Pass and houses of la 30S 0298196 133 m 389 m Zaharames (or Aljarames) Alharía 4043726 4043966 30S 0297002 30S 0297043 9 Orange groves at the 184 m 10 Ensillada del Amolador 284 m Huerta Crespillo 4043810 4043380 30S 0297149 12 Mirador del Paraje Natural 30S 0297390 11 Mirador de Gaucín y 356 m 461 m Sierra Bermeja, viewpoint 4042950 de Sierra Crestellina, viewpoint 4041545 30S 0297618 30S 0297583 13 El Cuartel de los Montes 540 m 14 Majada de Madrid 553 m del Duque 4041157 4040154 30S 0296687 16 Puerto de la Viñas and 30S 0296543 15 Puerto de los 575 m 638 m Guardas, pass 4039035 access to Crestellina Natural 4038751 30 S 0296174 18 Finish point at the Plaza de 30S 0296273 17 Mirador de Casares and el 476 m 365 m Estrecho de Gibraltar, viewpoint 4036838 España de Casares 4035607

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 301 X The Gran Senda de Málaga and the Western Costa del Sol

The bulk of Sierra Bermeja from the Mirador de La Acedia The Gran Senda de Málaga and the Western Costa del Sol

The exceptional climate at the foot are separated by the Punta de Baños. A third of the Baetic Mountains bay opens to the west from the mouth of Río Stages 29 to 35 of the Great Málaga Path Fuengirola, Bahía de Fuengirola, whilst to the cover the coastal fringe between the districts east it is bordered by Punta Negra and the mouth of Casares and Málaga, passing through the of Río Guadalhorce. The land platform is narrow, boundaries of Estepona, Marbella, Ojén, Mijas, about 5 kilometres wide in average and between Benalmádena and Alhaurín de la Torre. Other 150 and 200 metros of maximum depth. than the majority of the afore-mentioned places, In the north it is the mountain range which the Region of Western Costa del Sol generally shapes the last southernmost bastion of the includes Manilva, Benahavís and Torremolinos. Cordillera Bética closing the whole complex These are villages not included in the GR-249, and softening the effects of the cold northern or their itinerary is very short. winds. From west to east there are the Sierras Geographical features of this region give de Crestellina, Bermeja (both partially protected it a lot of character and make it enormously as Natural Area or Paraje Natural), Blanca, attractive from many different points of view. Alpujata and de Mijas, distinguished by a line Namely, there are two coastal arches, one of summits over 1.000 metros high and reaching open to the south-east and the other to the the maximum height of 1.452 metros at the peak south. The ﬁ rst one harbours two coves called of los Reales de Sierra Bermeja. The mountain Ensenada de Estepona and Marbella located chain is more or less continuous, separating The between Puntas de la Chullera and bordering Costa del Sol from neighbouring regions of La with Cádiz province, and the system of capes: Serranía de Ronda, La Sierra de las Nieves and Cabo de Ladrones and Calaburra. Both coves Valle del Guadalhorce.

302 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga The Gran Senda de Málaga and the Western Costa del Sol X

This geographical portrait is completed by of Sierra Bermeja. It includes smaller ranges describing the limits established by the valleys such as Palmitera, Apretaderas and Real. On of the two large Malaga rivers: Guadiaro along the other side of Río Verde, eastwards, there are the western fl ank and Guadalhorce along the the dolomites of Sierra Blanca of Marbella, Istán eastern side. y Ojén. Next, peridotites make an appearance A very special area from again in the Sierra Alpujata, together with the nature´s point of view Sierras Negra and Parda. Another white sierra composed of dolomite concludes the lithological Another particular feature is the succession display; it is shared by Mijas, Alhaurín de la of sierras of very different lithology. Generally Torre (this covers the most hectares), Alhaurín el speaking, marble massifs (metamorphic dolomite Grande, Benalmádena, Torremolinos and Málaga. limestone) alternate with peridotite (igneous Closeness to the Straits of Gibraltar places plutonic rock) in a lucky and exceptional en the western tip of Málaga at the crossroads geological mosaic from a scientific point of of Mediterranean Sea, Atlantic Ocean and view. Such heterogeneity of the substratum two continents, Africa and Europe. This, plus also leads to the existence of many mining the geological complexity and mountainous facilities. Very few of them are active. They character creates favourable conditions for used to extract metal minerals or talcum as the existence of interesting biodiversity which well as and sandstones and marble for the is also refl ected in the changing landscapes. construction business. The peaks of Sierra Bermeja preserve fo- The mountain range of highest altitude and rests which are relics of severe past climates. covers the biggest area is the peridotitic mass The Pinsapar (Spanish fir forest) combines the rarity of an endemic Andalucían tree and Quartz crystals on the side of the path its location on top of peridotitic rock which is almost exclusively found in Málaga province. This is one of the three Spanish Fir (Abies pinsapo) forests in the world, and this one is considered to have the most genetic diversity but it also takes up less space and is subject to more hostile environment. The tree which covers the largest area in hectares is the Maritime or Black pine (Pinus pinaster). There has been a mention of a variety of the Maritime pine which when growing in one of the two peridotitic massifs, becomes a dominant species. There are also pine woods of Aleppo pine (Pinus halepensis) and Stone pine (Pinus pinea). Many of the pine woods are original native ones. However the disastrous forest fi res consume this resinous type of wood and many areas need to be reforested. Like in case of the pines, there are species of Mediterranean scrub which withstand the fi re well; however so far there are no strategies to use that fact directly.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 303 X The Gran Senda de Málaga and the Western Costa del Sol

The visitors will be able to familiarise themselves The Southern Water Basin fi rst hand with places charred on different occa- The mountain chain along the coast cuts sions and check for themselves the tenacity of off possibility of any collective water drainage the cistus, Mediterranean Dwarf palms, lentiscs, to the south. In the north here are two water juniper and broom. basins which receive the water, Guadiaro and Amongst the larger animals around these peaks Guadalhorce. The very many rivers which fl ow there is the Spanish Ibex, an ungulate which is into the Mediterranean directly should be consi- exclusive to the Iberian Peninsula and very well dered very special for many reasons. Particularly adapted to life between rocks. It is quite easy to the ones whose headwaters are located in see it in certain circumstances. However the large the so-called sierra parda, brown mountains, raptors are also quite conspicuous and have a good as they tend to be permanent and are longer. presence on the Costa del Sol, both rook-dwelling The outstanding rivers to mention are: Padrón, ones and ones favouring wooded areas. The latter Castor, Guadalmansa, Guadalmina, Guadaiza, ones are especially frequent in Holm oak; Cork Río Verde and Fuengirola. They maintain stable population of fi sh, including a very special oak and Portuguese gall oak woods. These trees species in Andalucía, which has two of its three are recovering slowly the habitat they had lost in known locations in those rivers, the Freshwater favour of the pines and prosper in favourable areas, Blenny. The river deltas are amongst the many especially on schist and chalk. attractions which the next stages have to offer. La Gran Senda de Málaga takes you to special As humble as the mouth of a river can seem as habits as well, where limited distribution species a tourist area, these deltas attract an interesting occur and which often have their main if not uni- community of birdwatchers. In order to birdwatch que, habitats in the world. Although they will be in the deltas, you must come prepared as there mentioned further along in the chapters of this are numerous waders, ducks, gulls and other book it is worth mentioning here the ones which waterfowl strolling along the estuaries, visiting are easiest to fi nd and which are also very striking, the cliffs and beaches, and, on some occasions such as the Linaria clementei, Staehelina baetica, and for the particular species, it is feasible to Arenaria capillipes, or Genista lanuginosa. get close to them.

A millrace used now as a small pool

304 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga The Gran Senda de Málaga and the Western Costa del Sol X

The coastal sands harbour such plants as Lotus creticus

Human Infl uence on the Costa del Sol The description at the beginning of the such as lead and iron, also forests and river Topoguide of the eastern Costa del Sol can be waters. Nevertheless, the base triangle of also applied to its western part. The very little production: dry and irrigated farming, fi shing, land that the coastal mountain chain leaves for and animal husbandry have been active since housing construction caused Roman settlers not that long ago. However, the construction to occupy the deltas of the big rivers, the only boom which attracted everyone´s attention places where agriculture was possible. The sea to the area (due to the so-called construction has not always been a pleasant place to settle bubble) at the beginning of 21st century has down; there has been a tremendously turbulent marred the old natural splendour of the place. period during the andalusí domination (let´s not The GR-249 will take you to these primeval forget the Moors penetrated Iberian Peninsula places both at the sea level, along the string of around here) and from the 15th century the largest dunes, beaches and cliffs as well as the nearby number of fortifi cations and towers have been sierras; alternating coastal and mountain sta- built, they dot the surroundings of some of the ges. The GR will not omit, however, letting the proposed itineraries. walker see all the urban construction examples A separate mention must be made about the which have been created because of the Costa iron and steel industry which, in the 19th and del Sol since its came into existence and was 20th centuries established their fi rst Spanish attributed to the Malaga coast in the second facilities in these sierras based on the resources part of the 20th century.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 305 29 CASARES • ESTEPONA: Sierra Bermeja and the Costa del Sol

CASARES • ESTEPONA 29 Sierra Bermeja and the Costa del Sol

ESTIMATED TIME 10 hours 25 minutes Altitude (m) Loma de Sierra Bermeja Matute Río 500 Guadalobón Los Casares Pedregales Carretera 400 MA-8301 Vertedero Arroyo de los Arroyo Vaquero Arroyo de 300 Molinos la Cala Estepona Río Padrón 200

100 Los Molinos

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 Distance (km)

LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 32.8 Accumulated ascent 915 Final altitude 11 Ascent km 11.5 Accumulated descent 1.285 Maximum altitude 515 Descent km 14.6 Maximum difference 505 Minimum altitude 10 Flat km 6.7 Altitude at starting point 365 Average altitude 275

Summary of this Stage Although originally the traditional Camino de Estepona might have been used to connect the village with the city in a straight line, when it was asphalted it was also a good reason to include other walks in it, which lead predominantly east but continue taking quite large detours and this way they achieve a very mountainous itinerary with steep sections uphill and downhill. Although you may not associate such walking with the Costa del Sol, it should be enough to gaze at the massif of Sierra Bermeja to get an idea of the difﬁ cult walking and stark landscapes which await you. All this is added to an itinerary of lithological diversity which is truly surprising. Before it climbs up to the sierra, the Great Málaga Path follows a series of wide curves to discover the clay-based farmland, “bujeos” of the Arroyo de los Molinos de Casares and the schist of La Acedía. After a long itinerary uphill and folowing the southern skirt of the Sierra Bermeja, you make a sharp turn southwards and back to walking on metamorphic acidy rocks; then ﬁ nally you tread the sandy soils which surround Estepona. The distances seem to multiply during this stage due to the constant ins and outs the paths have to perform as they are forced to cross the many streams; some streams are seasonal and some permanent. This mostly happens in the middle of the stage.

306 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga CASARES • ESTEPONA: Sierra Bermeja and the Costa del Sol 29

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage diffi culty required 2 2 2 5 6.6 20.9 5.3 x 6 Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17 Highlights of this Stage Without a doubt the best of this stage is the heterogeneity of its type of soils and the following diversity of plants and human activities. The great feature of this stage is a truly rare rock around the world, plutonic in nature and originating from the Earth´s many layers, the peridotite. The appearance of this great ball of magma changed the whole lithological environment it got in touch with, causing the creation of metamorphic marbles, schist and chalk. The view that the traveller will have of the western Costa del Sol will be surprising thanks to a privileged location of a watch tower which the walker will see for the fi rst time along the GR-249. The broad bay Bahía de Estepona below and the sharp profi les of the African Rif Mountains and Straits of Gibraltar to south-west accompany the walk almost at every moment, whenever you are higher up, abounding in great spots for sunsets. Faced with the construction vortex of the coast which, fortunately hasn´t been as des- tructive around Estepona, Manilva and Casares as it was in other areas, the walk takes you many times to places where there are still surviving traditional gardens, working farms and old mills dotting the banks of rivers and streams which fl ow towards the south surrounded with such richness of fl ora and fauna that it could seem more appropriate in other places.

• Starting point: Calle de la Carrera, very close roads it crosses. Towards Casares you proceed to Plaza de España, in the village of Casares. to the left on the fi rst section of the tarmac. The • Access to starting point: Casares is very close second section of the tarmac takes you down to to the coastline with its motorways Autovías Estepona. In the middle, the best point to abandon A-7 y AP-7. You can arrive directly using the the walk, also proposed as possible point where motorways via the MA-8300 road or connecting you can divide the stage in two, is the Parque de from Manilva, the A-377 which goes to Gaucín Los Pedregales (km 13.5). and then taking the A-7150. Estepona can be • No return point: The only section to keep in reached from Casares directly via a road with mind is the Sierra Bermeja, given the above- no offi cial number which splits off the MA-8300 mentioned escape routs. There, once you have and passes through Los Pedregales. gone up the highest point of the itinerary, it still • Finish point: A little footbridge of Paseo Marítimo doesn´t matter if you continue or go back. Once de Estepona over the Río de la Cala, in the eastern you arrive at the track again it is recommended part of Playa de la Cala. that you continue. In the fi nal section, however, • Access to fi nish point: The relevant roads are once the tracks start leading downhill again it Autovía A-7 and the Autopista de Peaje AP-7, is best to continue, following them to the end, there is also a direct road from Serranía de Ronda as they get you closer and closer to Estepona. which arrives in the centre of Estepona coming • Maps: Use the map 1071-II (Casares) and 1072-I from Jubrique and which is used by the Gran Senda (Estepona). de Málaga during one section, the MA-8301. • District boundries: Up to km 12.7 you are in • Possible “escape routes”: It is worth knowing district boundaries of Casares just as you arrive that the 29, being such a long and hard stage, to the Parque de Los Pedregales, in front of the has good escape routes on both sides of the industrial estate.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 307 29 CASARES • ESTEPONA: Sierra Bermeja and the Costa del Sol

• Enjoy the walk safely Again at the beginning of the stage, it is A stage of this length and diffi culty level sign-posted as SL 8 la Ruta del Camino de needs to be carefully planned. Fortunately, and as Jimena, which leads to the right from Puerto stated above, there are many escape routes and de la Cruz. Right at the beginning there is an also a possibility of dividing the walk into two information panel for the suggested walk. legs. The two road sections are short, without The PR A-162 Manilva-Casares leads too much traffi c and generally the visibility is downhill on a track from the last village and good. This doesn´t mean you shouldn´t take the GR-249 abandons it close to the ford of care when walking along theses sections. The Arroyo de los Molinos, at a gate, when the country tracks have even less traffi c. Perhaps two walks have covered 2.1 km together. the Acedía and Valle del Padrón can possibly This gate has a sign explaining a local get a bit busier. programme to sign-post walks; one of them continues together with the GR. It is called The many streams you need to cross do Ruta 2 Arroyo Hondo-Los Molinos and it is not tend to pose any danger and any bigger described in the opposite direction to the GR. watercourses are rather token ones. There is There are other similar walks, 9 of them in no possibility to stock up on water unless you total. One of these walks also leads to Arroyo take a detour to Parque de Los Pedregales, a Hondo (northwards) and coincides with the public area of Estepona. What you do need to GR at the road access. address is the possibility of sunstroke in Sierra The next advertised walk is called SL 3 Bermeja, which faces south and is virtually Pasada del Pino-La Acedía. Like the other devoid of shade along the deforested areas. 8, it hasn´t been offi cially approved by the High voltage power lines, which keep the Federación Andaluza de Montañismo although GR company in the sierra, could be potentially it uses a similar colour scheme for sign- dangerous. You must not touch the electricity posting. In this case the proposed walk is towers under any circumstances, especially circular and coincides with the Gran Senda during rain or thunderstorms. when it runs along the Barranco de La Acedía; however they are also described in opposite • Connections to other footpaths and trails directions. The two walks separate at the end From Casares there are many walks towards of a forest track in the Monte Público de La Sierra Crestellina, which do not affect this Acedía, turning into paths. stage, and towards Río Manilva and los Baños The PR A-164 is the code for Estepona- de la Hedionda, which are below the pueblo. Los Reales walk and it starts where the PR The latter coincide with the Gran Senda de Casares-Estepona ends. It crosses the Gran Málaga entirely or in parts. Senda along a ridge which ascends boldly The GR leaves from Casares the same way from the coast after you ford the Guadalobón. as the PR A-163 Casares-Estepona. Up to the Both itineraries meet at km 20. Cerro de la Horca, just as you start walking, they Finally, the GR-92 E-12 Senda del coincide, but then the walk which connects the Mediterráneo leads from Almería to Málaga villages splits off to the left and comes back along the coast and as you are fi nishing this to the GR at Loma de Matute, sign-posed as stage, willy-nilly you will cross that path. This leading to Cortijo del Robledal and then as it gives the GR-249 walker the possibility of leads below it is marked with an information covering the only part of the Costa del Sol, panel of Cerro de los Higos, in the opposite eastwards, which is not described in the direction to the Gran Senda. This PR passes main itinerary, the section corresponding to through la Puerta de los Pedregales, which the districts of Casares and Manilva up to makes it one of the circular options. Punta Chullera.

308 GR-249GR-249 GranGran SendaSenda dede MálagaMálaga CASARES • ESTEPONA: Sierra Bermeja and the Costa del Sol 29

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

he only adapted drinking fountain that The Streams and Rivers de Sierra Bermeja is known along this stage is located, as The remaining streams and rivers follow the Tno surprise, between the dolomites and above description and their origin does not tend sandstone along the camino which goes down to be of limestone nature despite that all of the to Casares. This is the Fuente de Santa Catalina, cross marble terrain at some moment. At the hidden away to your right where an old convent Barranco de La Acedía you ford the fi rst stream, (later converted to barracks) and many shelters Arroyo Vaquero, with certain amount of water dating back to various eras all testify to the impor- which can even support some stable populations tance of this water source. As a curiosity and a of fi sh. This is the southernmost of the streams very common practice to avoid the accumulation which are infl uenced by the Sierra Bermeja, given of algae and insects someone has added fi sh that it comes from a col situated between this to the water source from the nearby river and Paraje Natural and the one of Sierra Crestellina, you can see them if you approach stealthily to the well-known Puerto de las Guardas. Upstream see them hide away in the opening where the from the Acedía, this pretty grove whose gardens water is coming out. and residences are supplied with water by the The rivers and streams you discover during stream is given the name of Garganta de los this stage have their own idiosyncrasies which Palos on maps. are the cause behind treating them here as a In the vicinity of the landfill, El Vertedero separate basin, which fl ows in to Mediterranean Comarcal you must for the stream which signifi cant directly. These are short watercourses but surprisingly not as seasonal as one could expect amount of water compared to the size of its bed. because of their lack of length and their steep There is a rubber pipe supplying water to a tank gradient. This is mainly due to the hydrological just above the landfi ll. Typical vegetation of such characteristics of the peridotite, schist and gneiss watercourses is composed of oleanders, rushes of Sierra Bermeja. The exception is the Arroyo and frequently, the still natural pools contain de los Molinos, which is a karstic spring with a pond skaters and water beetles. This and the signifi cant volume of water. next arroyo which carries more water, is more The Arroyo de los Molinos fl ows along a enclosed and also has its own subterranean water narrow limestone gully at the level of Molino de outlet (fl owing to Parque de Los Pedregales) form Arriba. There are tall poplars, reeds, brambles together the Arroyo de Enmedio, which can be and important plants for the local popular culture such as the Great Yellow Gentian and watercress. The stream, as its course develops along the The high walls of Convento de Santa Catalina way and downstream, continuously supports such structures as the mill, until the point where, together with other tributaries, it flows into the Garganta de la Sierra de la Utrera to come out as Río Manilva in the famous sulphurous Baños de la Hedionda. As mentioned before, a link to a PR footpath lends the Gran Senda an opportunity to access this recommended site not only because of its natural value but also historical and ethnological signifi cance.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 309 29 CASARES • ESTEPONA: Sierra Bermeja and the Costa del Sol

seen from the fi rst vantage points of the stage, Watercress growing in the crystal-clear waters of as it leads away towards the sea. Arroyo de los Molinos Next there are torrential watercourses, normally dry, which fi ll with water in rainy season; the white raging waters are caused by the steepness and rockiness of the terrain. These are headwaters of Arroyo de la Miel and Arroyo de los Polvitos. The following streams are bigger, the Barranco de las Minas and, above all, Río Guadalobón, which the previous stream fl ows into as a tributary. The volume of water carried by the Guadalobón is quite signifi cant even at this altitude; it supports a beautiful natural pool at the foot of a great waterfall a few meters away from the walk. Below, in the valley, you can see a few ruins surrounded by the remnants of a dense forest, protected by the river bed. At the ford of Arroyo de la Cala, having crossed This is one of the most signifi cant rivers in the the second road, the walker will discover a pretty area, rich in fi sh and associated aquatic fauna; stream amongst reed beds and willows which it also maintains a dense thicket of tamarisks emerges from a small schist gully. It is not the and willows. At times, during the dry season, fi rst time you will be crossing this stream. As ithe it disappears because of the many irrigation walk descends, the GR-249 gets close to two channels draining it; it reappears lower down, watercourses as their fl ow becomes calmer due recuperated. to more level terrain. If there is a curious section However, the star feature of the day is the along this walk, it would defi nitely be the narrow Arroyo de la Cala which you follow for quite a isthmus separating the Valle del Río Padrón from stretch, having to cross it several times which Arroyo de la Cala; it is a narrow strip of chalky doesn´t pose any particular diffi culties. It is quite ground which the track follows. On the left, El easy to see Barbel and Chub in its waters when Padrón proves to be a generous river as its waters allowed by the depth of the natural pools and are used for gardens and fruit trees, some of the dense vegetation. The name of Camino de them subtropical ones thanks to the mild climate. los Molinos is due to a series of hydraulic mills which dot the path; some have been restored, some are ruined and one has been used as a The fi rst ravine shelters a great diversity of vegetation swimming pool for a holiday home. They are named using ordinal numbers and you can see the Fifth mill up to the Second one at the last ford of Arroyo de la Cala. And as if to claim its importance back, lost at the end of the itinerary, this humble watercourse arrives at the very place which as given it its name: la Cala de Estepona, and constitutes the end of the stage at the Paseo Marítimo.

310 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga CASARES • ESTEPONA: Sierra Bermeja and the Costa del Sol 29

WALK DESCRIPTION

El Arroyo de los Molinos The landscape is dominated by sandy soil The long and demanding itinerary starts where Wild olives, Lentisc, and Carob trees at Calle Carrera, where the birth place of Blas thrive as they are specialists in struggling against Infante is, and passes through Plaza de España, such terrain, plus a fi g tree here and there and a with its curious 18th century Carlos III fountain. couple of almond trees. The piles of rock called You then walk down Calle Juan Cerón and leave “majanos” (piles remaining after clearing the the village through Calle Molino, in the south land) are mainly boulders of “aljibe” sandstone part of the white village of Casares which boasts which gives you a good hint of the genesis of a few viewpoints. The fi rst intersection of the the surrounding slopes. At km 2 where there tracks is in a somewhat deteriorated area due is a sign-posted PR A-164 to Estepona, turn to an old mine which used to take advantage of east and leave the wide track for good (which the local dolomite rocks, leaving little passage leads to the recommended PR walk to los Baños ways and holes behind, now occupied by stacks de la Hedionda). According to the paperwork of unused materials, a slaughterhouse and lots available at Federación Andaluza de Montaña, of opportunist vegetation. this sign contains an error: the PR A-164 is the The Cerro de la Horca (noose hill), an un- one which ascends Los Reales from Estepona fortunate name reminiscing the actions of the and the walk Casares-Estepona does not pass Spanish Inquisition and similar events later in through here; instead it stays around Cerro de the history, is a limestone hillock on top of which la Horca, as mentioned before. the new cemetery is being constructed, circular Next you arrive at a privileged site, el Arroyo in shape and similar to the famous Castillo de de los Molinos, the fi rst forerunner of Río Manilva. Casares. This is an intersection of the tracks Out of translucent waters, and coming out of a from where some of the recommended local walks depart; to the right towards Jimena de la Frontera and el Río Guadiaro, and to the left the PR A-163 (Casares-Estepona). The walk heads direction south and coincides at the beginning with the PR A-162 (Manilva Casares, Ruta de los Molinos). In a very short section you transit from the typical of Casares dolomite terrain to the “bujeo” clay type soil which is a result of the intrusion of the “Flysch del Aljibe” rock. Exactly where the two types of the rock meet a tiny water source emerges called Fuente de Santa Catalina. Sheltered by the water there are some surviving water reservoirs from many different eras and the solid stone block walls with brick fi nish belonging to the old barracks of the Carabineers, which had been a Convent prior to that. Casares and Sierra Crestellina from a farmhouse on the way

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 311 29 CASARES • ESTEPONA: Sierra Bermeja and the Costa del Sol

Extensive “bujeos” between Casares and the coast on both sides, little Cork oak woods and abandoned working fi elds taken over by the scrub. Thus you reach the kilometre marker 9 and the MA-8300 road amongst pine trees made up of Stone pine and Gum cistus with some mature Cork oaks. La Acedía You need to walk along the road for about a kilometre, but there is a must-do stop at the Mirador de Peñas Blancas, where you have a global view of the middle part of this stage which runs through La Acedía and skirts the Sierra Bermeja. There is an information panel which helps you locate the surrounding landscape to the north and east. The circular walk “Pasada karstic enclosure there is an irrigation channel del Pino-La Acedía” leads through the area, which fl ows into the nearby Molino de Arriba, coinciding with the GR-249, it is sign-posted which boasts a few water outlets, and is well as two distinct PR walks despite not being preserved. The channel continues to the next offi cially catalogued and its main interest lies water mill but the walk crosses it above the mill in the “muladar” which is a feeding station and starts a climb where the path penetrates for carrion eating birds. the thick scrub growing in the clay soil where The steep slope which takes you down the usual species are enriched by Spiny broom, towards La Acedía and a good number of Mediterranean Dwarf Palm tree and Broad-leaved luxury residences at the bottom of the valley, Phillyrea or privet (Phyllirea latifolia). were the reason behind paving this section of The Cortijo del Robledal, an extensive country the track, which used to be an old dirt track. estate mainly dedicated to pure Spanish blood The winding track enters a promising-looking horse breeding keeps the walker company for wood of young Cork oaks with Portuguese Cork a while on both sides of the path until the fi rst oak and a varied scrub which lasts until the ford in the Arroyo de Pocas Libras, with its ford in the Arroyo Vaquero, featuring willows abundant brambles and tamarisks and normally and reeds. It has suffi cient water volume to dry streambed. Another ascent takes you by support Barbels and Chubs in the deepest pools. old mines which now have been converted into landfi lls. The wind generators on the side of the A-377 and the white hamlet of Casares Gardens and residences at the Monte de La Acedía are coming into view again. Between the junction which marks the direction to Cerro de los Higos and another which leads to the main entrance of the Cortijo del Robledal the track which coincides with the GR is the PR headed for Estepona, which runs in the opposite direction along Loma de Matute. This string of hills have track on top which goes to the north, with country houses and gardens

312 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga CASARES • ESTEPONA: Sierra Bermeja and the Costa del Sol 29

Leaving behind the cultivated subtropical trees and gardens you embark on a climb along dirt tracks, which are less and less busy as you progress through Monte Público de La Acedía. In general these woods consist of Cork oak; there are some large specimens at the beginning. However the scrubland takes the centre stage in areas with fewer trees, creating a tangled mass of Tree heath, Gum cistus, Wild olive, Mock privet, Gorse and Spiny broom. In the shade or where there is more humidity there are Portuguese gall oaks and Strawberry trees. Pass along the joining line between the Arroyo del Palo and a tributary, the latter you follow while you ascend. On the northern slope there is a wood of Maritime pine mixed with Cork oaks, with Villa Bermeja on the left. Go Maritime pines with their whimsical shapes, at Los Pedregales up a track which allows you to see on the other side of the valley the ruins of Casa del Teniente, with its water source in form of an arch. Infi erno and go up to a natural viewpoint. Pass The southern side of Sierra Bermeja by an access to the Parque de Los Pedregales on your right. This is a good point to marvel at At km 11 you abandon the track and take the Park which has evolved as half-forest and a path which leads now to the east. You are half-garden. This is also the last opportunity in the midst of Sierra Bermeja, the rock faces to stock up on water or retrace your steps still are quite devoid of trees, with a few pine trees quite easily. occupying the repopulated terraces. Keep wal- The real climb to Sierra Bermeja begins. king down until you get close to the Vertedero Whatever traces of old traditional paths have Comarcal (landfi ll); you will be walking close to been lost; you are walking along tracks and the fenced area after having waded through a service roads which had been used to put up stream which feeds a reservoir higher up. The the electricity towers. This type of walking great extensive mounds of residue are striking, continues until you reach the enormous ravine hidden in many layers with ventilation tubes of headwaters of Arroyo de la Miel. One thing sticking out to help air the fermenting organic is certain: you get the best views of all of this matter. The landfill is being expanded and stage from the vicinity of an electricity tower some Cork oaks are being moved to another just before a junction, the views reach towards location. Hundreds of gulls fl y over the facility. the Bay of Estepona and Straits of Gibraltar. There is an isolated forest further away From here onwards you need to climb along the which is a survivor of of the last forest fi re path until you reach the maximum altitude of which has really ravaged the area, then you this stage (515 m, km 16.2) and then go down pass a couple of ruins and immediately have again till another electricity tower, where you a view of an industrial estate on your right, fi nd some dirt tracks again, at which point there just before you need to ford Barranco del is very little traffi c.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 313 29 CASARES • ESTEPONA: Sierra Bermeja and the Costa del Sol

A steep descend (after the intersection with the PR A-164) takes you up to the MA- 8301 road which climbs up from Estepona to the Paraje Natural de Los Reales of Sierra Bermeja. At this intersection there is another geological surprise, a lime kiln which used to be fed with the white rocks which are visible all around, the marbles which had been created by the pressure and heat upon contact with magmatic peridotitic intrusions. The Río de la Cala Valley Reddish rocks over the Bay of Estepona These marbles remain visible as you walk along the road until you take the junction at km 22.5 of the walk, but, little by little The presence of Maritime pine woods is schist is taking over the terrain. This change only nominal along the path, with the rock fi elds in terrain causes the appearance of the of the red peridotite supporting thin bushes of acid soil specialist: the Cork oak with its Kermes oak, gorse, broom, Esparto grass, Purple entourage of fi re-resistant bushes, especially Phlomis and White Leaf Rockrose. However, the gum cistus. the surviving trees have unique, are gnarled You ford the Arroyo de la Cala for the shapes as a result of growing in such hostile fi rst time in the vicinity of a small excavated environment created by the rock coming from pool and at the point of the river where it the deep layers of the Earth. At the ravines of can support populations of fish. The GR Los Polvitos, Las Minas and El Guadalobón, climbs a little along a track which turns into above all in areas which are less exposed to a path until arriving at the main track which the sun and at the bottom of the ravines, a pine descends along the Loma de la Pontezuela. wood managed to survive, at times quite dense. Pass a Cork oak which looks like an island surrounded by a circle of dirt, and through The Guadalobón is the only permanently pine woods with heath and myrtles which fl owing river you will cross but all the torrential you pass by on your left in Valle del Padrón, gullies do fi ll up with water in rainy season very open and fl anked from the east by thick which results in a spectacular show of contrasts pine woods of the Loma del Nicio. There is an between the red of the rocks and the white Arabic fortifi cation there with the same name. of the cascading rapids. Before the river, just as you catch the fi rst glimpse of it; note how the cut in the rocks caused by the track has Mineral veined intrusions in peridotitic rock exposed the bare rock, fractured by deposits of natural asbestos and serpentine-type rocks, greenish in colour. The multi-directionality these crystalline dike intrusions present are a clue to the magmatic nature of these rock formations, whose rich metal contents supported an insipient mining industry in the past.

314 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga CASARES • ESTEPONA: Sierra Bermeja and the Costa del Sol 29

Along the first bends there are a few country houses mixed with animal enclosures, until you reach another intersection where a tiled marker confirms you have been walking along the Camino del Puerto de las Palmas. You arrive at Río Padrón (km 26.8), which you do not cross. The walk leads towards the slope which separates this river from Arroyo de la Cala. First mills appear on your right, between traditional gardens, abandoned houses and second residences. Arroyo de la Cala has Valle del Río Padrón and its subtropical cultivars to be crossed three times in a little valley which keeps getting very narrow but then it opens up again next to a garden shop/ upper part of Estepona. A short walk along nursery and one the second mill, which the streets passing by the school Colegio has been converted into a private home. Público Sierra Bermeja, leads the traveller The last section leads along a tarmac track to the destination which is the footbridge which takes you uphill, just after you cross at the Paseo Marítimo where you meet the Arroyo de Marimacho, and over the again and for the last time the Arroyo de Autovía del Mediterráneo arriving at the la Cala.

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

1 Casares, Calle de la 30S 0296263 2 Fuente and the old Convento 30S 0296278 Carrera street and Plaza 365 m 240 m de España square 4035692 de Santa Catalina 4034384 3 Arroyo de los Molinos 30S 0296520 4 Mirador de Peñas Blancas 30S 0298429 stream and the mill Molino 160 m 345 m de Arriba (or Gorrino) 4033797 at the MA-8300 road 4035799 30S 0299152 6 Mirador del Vertedero de 30S 0300951 5 Ford across Arroyo 190 m 240 m Vaquero in La Acedía 4035407 Residuos Sólidos, viewpoint 4036315 30S 0302090 8 Mirador de Estepona and del 30S 0303086 7 Mirador de Los 273 m 430 m Pedregales, viewpoint 4036086 Estrecho, viewpoint 4036466 30S 0304420 10 Lime kiln beside the 30S 0305312 9 Headwaters of Río 360 m 327 m Guadalobón 4037914 MA 8301 road 4038278 30S 0306422 12 Río Padrón and the huge 30S 0308087 11 Ford across Arroyo de 175 m 90 m la Cala 4037808 Carob tree 4037313 30S 0308686 14 Second mill, Molino, close to Vivero 30S 0308588 13 Ford across Arroyo de la 50 m 37 m Cala close to Molino Tercero 4036103 Río de la Cala nursery/gardening shop 4035531 30S 0308251 16 Estepona, Paseo Marítimo 30S 0308448 15 Arroyo de Marimacho, 30m 12 m stream 4034665 & mouth of the Río de la Cala 4033559

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 315 30 ESTEPONA • MARBELLA: The beaches of western Costa del Sol

ESTEPONA • MARBELLA 30 The beaches of western Costa del Sol

ESTIMATED TIME 7 hours

Altitude Torre del Torre del Torre del (m) Padrón Velerín Guadalmansa

15 Estepona Desembocadura del Gudalmansa 10 Bóvedas Playa del Saladillo Puente de Marbella 5 Playa del Duque Río Verde 0

-5

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 Distance (km)

LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 27.1 Accumulated ascent 150 Final altitude 2 Ascent km 4.4 Accumulated descent 135 Maximum altitude 15 Descent km 4.6 Maximum difference 15 Minimum altitude 0 Flat km 18.2 Altitude at starting point 12 Average altitude 3

Summary of this Stage This stage is almost fl at with ascents and descents of zero diffi culty, leading at the sea level direction east, or slightly north-east, between the towns of Estepona and Marbella. It begins in the eastern part of the promenade Paseo Marítimo in Estepona but it immediately penetrates the coastline to travel through the fi rst 17 kilometres along the beaches and dunes of the western Costa del Sol, with brief detours on the pavements along some housing estates. Normally the itinerary of this fi rst part is done by walking on the sand, although there are stretches of boulders and even fossilised dunes. You have to cross numerous waterways, some of signifi cant scale, which could even prevent passage during the rainy season. The remaining 10 km of the walk leads along the promenades (Paseos Marítimos) of San Pedro and Marbella, sometimes paved, others with wooden walkways and some with clay or dirt surface. All of them do feature landscaped gardens along at least one side. The river crossings, which are much less numerous in this second part, are done using bridges, some of them quite beautiful.

316 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga ESTEPONA • MARBELLA: The beaches of western Costa del Sol 30

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 1 1 2 4 17.1 - 10 x 5 Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17 Highlights of this Stage This stage is an opportunity to learn the ins and outs of the urban development of the western part of the Costa del Sol, linked intrinsically to tourism and its many different facets. Frequently the public access seaside acquires quite negligible dimensions or is completely urban in other parts. However, at times the walker will be rewarded by places of singular beauty and surviving reminders of what nature used to be like here in the past. Thus, the coast has had varied luck due to the moment in history when it was being built up, generally leaving the original wilderness relegated to just a few meters in result. At certain points of the coast of Estepona, you can still see the surviving strings of dunes, especially at the beaches of Saladillo and Matas Verdes. It is even possible to try to go back in time watching the traditional coastal trades such as the few still working orchards, a few meters from the sea shore, or ﬁ shing boats and gear resting on slopes high above the beach. However, undoubtedly, what livens up the long route along the coast of Malaga is the network of watch towers and medieval beacons, which are sometimes very different from one another; also there are the numerous mouths of the Bermeja rivers. This is the coast which is world famous and yet remains a great unknown from the point of view of its patrimony and natural environment.

• Starting point: seafront promenade in • Possible “escape routes”: The Autovía Estepona, at the east end of the beach of del Mediterráneo or the old N-340 are la Cala, just above the little wooden bridge always located towards the interior, to built over the Arroyo de la Cala. the north, and not too far away. There are • Access to starting point: The Mediterráneo numerous streets that lead to these two motorway A-7 and the AP-7 Autopista de main roads which have bus lines running Peaje (toll motorway). The long coastal in both directions. Avenida de Litoral that leads to Estepona • No return point: the Guadalmina can be follows the route of the old N 340, which taken as the halfway point of the route, is the eastern access to the city, and this is the road that leads to the starting point. and therefore from there on it´s best to continue ahead. • Finish point: at the promenade (Paseo Marítimo) of Marbella and the mouth of the • Maps: You must use, in that order: 1072-I Arroyo Guadalpin, close to the Palacio de (Estepona), 1072-II (San Pedro de Alcántara) Congresos in the centre of the city. and 1065-IV (Marbella). • Access to ﬁ nish point: the A-7 and AP-7. • District boundries: Estepona and Marbella The main Avenida of Marbella is the perfect districts meet at Río Guadalmina, which link; use as a reference the roundabout constitutes the boundary line. At km 14.2 Boulevar Príncipe Alfonso de Hohenlohe. is where the districts change.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 317 30 ESTEPONA • MARBELLA: The beaches of western Costa del Sol

Cley cliffs at Punta de los Mármoles

• Enjoy the walk safely In the ﬁ rst section, just as you start walking recommended that you use sun block cream along the beach, the path leads along a clay cliff. and wear a hat. There is a potentially problematic point at the end of the cliff as water can rise right up to its • Connections to other footpaths and trails edge during high tide. There isn´t a PR Pequeño Recorrido path It´s worth looking up the tide time-table and which would join GR-249 directly, but there is in case of the sea rising, take the paved path the GR-92, with which GR-249 shares the path just above the escarpment instead. Also, the and direction.Los Paseos Marítimos of Estepona compacted clay terrain can be very slippery when and Marbella, the pedestrian promenades meant wet, take care not to slip and fall. for leisure walking are ideal places to walk There are other sections where the stretch of on when they coincide with the path but it is sand you´re walking on is reduced to the mini- perfectly feasable to complete almost the entire mum and becomes very narrow but this should itinerary walking on the sand along the beach. not cause any serious problems. Another issue is your having to cross various rivers, especially Wading birds feeding at the beach the Guadalmansa and the Guadalmina. As there aren´t any pedestrian bridges, you must look for a road bridge in case the water levels are high, and these bridges are quite far from the coast. As far as the rest of the rivers are concerned, and you cross them ﬁ rst, fording them is less complicated and there are road bridges close by. Be careful with the sun, you will be walking either into the sun or having it right behind you, considering the direction of the path. It is highly

318 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga ESTEPONA • MARBELLA: The beaches of western Costa del Sol 30

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

he existence of so many water courses with de Interes Comunitario) that is, they receive a considerable fl ow is due to the presence special recognition at a European level thanks Tof Sierra Bermeja. All the important rivers to their representative ecological values. that the traveller has the opportunity to meet Each of these zones has an area slightly bigger at this stage have their origin in the mass of than 8.30 hectares. One of the species which was red coloured peridotite rocks. The Río Verde is behind the special recognition is the European the longest; it is followed by the three “sister Otter. A large population of these animals use rivers”: Guadalmansa, Guadalmina and Guadaiza. the beaches as connecting channels between One shouldn´t jump to conclusions about the the natural corridors of the banks of the rivers, volume of the watercourses by looking at what which actually are very close to one another. amount of water arrives at the beach, at the Obviously, given the permanent nature of the river mouths; the fi rst river is regulated higher watercourses and the river mouth backwaters, up by a reservoir which supplies this part of the fi sh population is also signifi cant and, simi- the Costa del Sol with water, and the other larly, the population of ducks and kingfi shers. It three are connected to the whole river network is recommended that you walk through these through draining channels that contribute to sites quietly and you should be able to see ducks, the Río Verde. Moorhens and herons quite easily. The other rivers and streams have no dams Guadaiza River and Río Verde are also LICs, to regulate their courses, although they do su- with the area of 9 and 108 hectares respectively, ffer losses in the fl ow due to irrigation; similar representing the last rivers with headwaters phenomenon used to occur with the watermills situated in the metamorphic rocks which you in the past. All of them constitute a separate walk through at this stage. Other streams have watershed, the basin of the western Costa a very meagre fl ow and form part of the “urban del Sol which should be treated as a separate maelstrom”, thus losing the environmental appeal entity, and is situated between those of the that characterizes the previous watercourses. Guadalhorce and Guadiaro. The prevailing vegetation around the streams usually consists of reed beds so dense at times Housing estate reaching down to the beach that are can completely block the watercourse. Around large rivers there are poplars and tamarisks accompanied by reeds, bulrushes and cattails. The large pools at the mouths of the rivers, where the fresh water temporarily blends with seawater, are quite important as they offer conditions that lead to the greater diversity of aquatic fauna. This is a known fact to the anglers who come to river mouths in search of predatory fi sh, mostly sea bass, as they like to prowl here at night. The Padrón, Castor, Guadalmansa and Guadalmina rivers are places declared to be “of European Community Interest” (LIC, Lugares

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 319 30 ESTEPONA • MARBELLA: The beaches of western Costa del Sol

The Sea Bed Speaking of the richness of the coast: the traveller has the opportunity to start the tour in another place of Community Interest called The Sea Bed of the Bay of Estepona (Fondos Marinos de la Bahia de Estepona, 552 has) and pass through another, El Saladillo - Punta de Baños (1755 has). Both areas have been declared of to be of Pebbles of very diverse origins and composition European Community signiﬁ cance because of the existence of vast prairies of Posidonia oceanica, a plant exclusively found in the Mediterranean spots of highly polluting activities. Above all, and which has its westernmost population in the biggest problem is the close proximity of the Straits. The meadows of Posidonia are the houses to the coastline. greatest example of plants which can settle on Because of all the above-mentioned fac- sandy sea bed, stabilizing it and providing refuge tors, there is no choice but to transport the for numerous zoological species. wastewater along the beaches themselves. One of the conservation efforts that have been The Great Málaga Path walker will have a successful in preservation of the coastline and sea chance to observe many inspection covers and bed is the integral puriﬁ cation of waste water. In pumping stations; the latter are necessary due an area such as the western Costa del Sol this is to the lack of natural incline at the beach. One a tricky issue which, with hindsight, should have of the stations is on the left bank of the river been resolved sooner. The complications are caused Guadalmansa, little more than one mile from by the extension of narrow and oblong-shaped the path, cleaning up 35,000 m3 of water per day populated areas and their high density with hot and providing service to over 140,000 people. WALK DESCRIPTION

Coastal cliffs and narrow pebble beaches Arroyo de la Cala has been a regular com- no problems to pass through. However, it is panion of the Great Path during the previous up to you to retrace your steps and look for stage and now serves as the mark for the a pavement which leads along the top of starting point. You will have walked less than the cliff, through a garden, if the situation 500 metres from the beach promenade when the so requires. Also beware of the compacted walk takes you to and area of sand and cliffs. greenish clay at the beach, which is extremely Your proximity to Estepona makes it possible slippery when splashed by the waves. to try to predict how the waves and tides are affecting this potentially problematic spot which can be slightly diffi cult to walk through Ants feeding in the fl owers of European Searocket at times. The escarpment which confi nes this tiny pebbled beach is made of clay and it is fairly high. Additionally, the narrow strip you can walk along is getting narrower with time. Under normal circumstances, there should be

320 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga ESTEPONA • MARBELLA: The beaches of western Costa del Sol 30

Having crossed Punta de los Mármoles Next, Río del Castor makes its appea- you arrive at a small beach, Bahía de la Plata, rance, very similar to its predecessor. It where there is the mouth of a stream, and which lends its name to another cape, Punta is bordered by earthen cliffs and it marks the del Castor. Then there is the Río Velerín beginning of another narrow area. This time (km 5.2), with somewhat more diverse caused by houses, which are literally in the vegetation but shallower pools and less sea in some cases. La Playa de Punta Plata water volume. In its vicinity, on top of a is not a great quality beach because of its hill, there is Torre del Velerín. It is slightly size and tendency to be covered with pebbles, less well preserved than the Padrón Tower but it is a great place to watch Turnstones, but it is much more accessible and located Sandpipers, Dunlins and other waders next next to a small pine wood. Construction to fl ocks of gulls relaxing or preening in the materials can be easily identified: very fresh waters of the deltas. uneven stone blocks came from areas As a curiosity, it is very easy to detect where rivers passed over them, and thewhere the waste pipelines run underground, se blocks have been held together with as in some places the ditch has opened above mortar made of sand and lime. Ceramic the compacted clays which appear in the brick has been used for the finishes (this terrain and then has been fi lled in with rocks is the reason why the vault and arches and sand forming a channel visible between of the windows-doors are still surviving) the elevated inspection covers. and, sometimes, cut sandstone blocks used above all to support the machicolations. The mouths of Bermeja’s rivers The latter have not been preserved. The and the beacon towers towers were plastered and some of them And so you arrive at km 3, to an area of still show traces of mortar on the north much wider beaches, a fact due to, amongst sides. Period foundations and the wall other things, the large number of rivers fl owing base are also visible, surrounding living here into the sea. quarters next to the tower. Other towers The fi rst river is the Padrón or Paredón, of similar structure tend to be, just as this characteristic because of its clumps of cane one, Christian in origin dating back to the and reed beds. If there is an area which is beginning of the16th century. exemplary of the coast and its contrasts, this would be it. Right next to a luxurious hotel, in whose gardens the fi rst watch tower Mouth of the río Velerín is situated, you can also find one of the Estepona-style traditional gardens at the foot of the beach, protected from sea breeze by cane fences and native vegetation. The fi rst plant specimens adapted to dune environments start appearing, marked with a sign explaining their importance to the European community. The sign shows the name “malcomietalia” which refers to Sand Stock (Malcolmia littorea), one of the most conspicuous and colourful species.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 321 30 ESTEPONA • MARBELLA: The beaches of western Costa del Sol

When you pass the Arroyo de las Cañas (km 6.5) you arrive at Punta del Guadalmansa, past a very pronounced turn, and it is where you should look for a watch tower which stands out from the usual tronconical shaped models. La Torre del Guadalmansa (or Desmochada) is large, with two fl oors contained by its 14 metre high square construction, and of much earlier origin. It was built in the 10th century, during the Al Andalus period, however quite possibly an older site was used for the construction, as suggested by a Roman site at its foot, located Dunes and pine wood of Saladillo inside a landscaped area of a housing estate. What is striking about the Torre de Guadalmansa is its dimension, the sandstone blocks used on The best place to marvel at the fl ora and its corners and arches, and a couple of sgraffi to fauna of the dune systems of the Costa del motifs, one of them depicting an encircled Sol starts right here. In order to do this, walk Jerusalem cross. away from the sand affected by tidal waves The Beach and Dunes of El Saladillo and walk towards the promontories direction north. The remnants of long-gone vegetation The mouth of the Guadalmansa river is close thrive here. Also, along the fi rst section there now, and this is the fi rst really large one. The end are, here and there, poppies, sea daffodils, pool of the river is many hundreds of metres long sea holly and beachgrass. Having covered 9 and very wide. The large water surface makes it kilometres, at La Punta del Saladillo, you can a comfortable place to watch waterfowl, which fi nd abundant Ononis ramosissima and the fi nd refuge between the two strips of riparian fragrant, everlasting Helychrysum stoechas vegetation with reeds, cane, tamarisks and a on top of the dunes. There are also the erect dense carpeting of bulrush on the right river bank. flower stems of Great mullein and some Samphire plants. Matacán and Cruz de la Torre de Guadalmansa Along this whole section it is worthwhile searching for the long list of species connected to the sandy environment which reaches up to a few metres towards the sea. It would be unusual not to fi nd some of the plants fl owering during any season of the year, even in most unfavourable times such as mid August; this is when the Sea Daffodil is in fl ower. The Arroyo Taraje is a little further and it is quite interesting, given its location: surrounded by dunes and on the way to the Torre del Saladillo, which is similar to previous towers but situated at a tarmac roundabout. At the Arroyo del Saladillo, very similar in its vegetation composition to the previous

3323222 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga ESTEPONA • MARBELLA: The beaches of western Costa del Sol 30 stream, there is the residual water pum- La Torre de Baños (or de Casasola) is your next ping station (Estación de Bombeo de Aguas landmark. Inaccessible due to being surrounded Residuales) and another one a little further, by a fence, this tower is two fl oors and 15 metres at the mouth of Arroyo de Dos Hermanas; this high and though it is of Muslim origin (15th stream also harbours a few good specimens century) it had to be strengthened two centuries of White poplar. later using a tronconical fortifi cation as the tower A little further still, passing by a few Stone was very slim. This is the only tower with one of pines with their quaint shapes caused by ba- the fl oors shaped like a horseshoe, as its north ttling the wind, there is another dune system, wall is completely fl at. This watchtower marks Matas Verdes or Casasola. It is separated from the entrance of a river and the beginning of the previous system, located amongst coastal Marbella district at Guadalmina, having passed woods of Estepona, by a row of wooden stakes another pumping station. which block access to a low pine wood with a The beach promenades of San Pedro few maturing Cork oaks. In the clearings the and Marbella dense scrub prospers: Lentisc, Dwarf palm, An unusually located hotel golf course whose Phoenician juniper, Buckthorn, Rhamnus and grass almost touches the sand of the beach Spiny broom. The fauna, though elusive, tends leads to Torre de las Bóvedas. Exceptionally to leave traces revealing their whereabouts well preserved but very similar to the previous such as rabbit latrines, wasp tunnels in the ones with its tronconical shape, this tower is ground or prints left by beetles on the sand. in the middle of a fi rst-rate and well taken care A sign informs the walker that the sea bed of archaeological complex. The Roman Baths contains the second population of Neptune (Las Termas Romanas de las Bóvedas) are just grass (posidonia oceanica) during this stage, on the side of the tower, however there is a and this site is also protected as a European fence surrounding them and you cannot enter Community interest site (LIC). unless you book a tour.

Río Guadalmansa river mouth and Sierra Bermeja in the background

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 323 30 ESTEPONA • MARBELLA: The beaches of western Costa del Sol

protective fence on your right sometimes railings of different shapes jetties in some places and rock breakwaters in others. In all of the cases the landscaped areas are a thing in common, showing a different variety of styles. Meanwhile, the housing estates are placed at varied distances from the beach but there is always a margin wide enough to walk along the path or stroll peacefully along the successive beaches. And so the breakwaters and coves of the Playa de Nueva Andalucía give way to the cape of Punta del Duque with its famous Puerto Torre del Saladillo, built in 1575 Banús. Just before that, in private gardens, you can locate the square Muslim tower Torre del Duque. It owes its name to the Duke of The thermae building dates back to the be- Cádiz and Arcos, named Don Rodrigo Ponce ginning of the past millennium and is structured de León, one of the protectors of the so-called around an octagonal central patio, surrounded Christian rulers (Reyes Católicos) during the by seven, also octagonal shaped rooms, the conquest of Al Andalus. famous bathing chambers. The whole building If there is an image that ought to stay in the used to be covered with pink marble sheets, mind of the GR-249 walker, summing up the and even now, with the bare walls, its state of actual Costa del Sol, it would be the contrast conservation is still surprising. between the valuable heritage of the section Surprises at km 17 around the Arroyo del of free coastline you have just left behind and Chopo stream mouth do not end here. Next, Puerto José Banús, with its exclusive shops, a group of fi shing boats and traditional boat fl ashy cars and luxurious boats. At km 21.5 winches resting on high ground indicate the spot of the itinerary, it is worthwhile stopping and where you can fi nd a sort of small community marvelling at the pleasure boats, sometimes of fi shermen under a few Eucalyptus trees. At quite outrageously lavish in size and appea- the back fi nd the early Christian church Basílica rance, and gaze at the large Flathead mullets Paleocristiana de Vega del Mar, also surrounded swimming meekly in the oily waters. by a fence but you can get close enough to admire The mouth of the river Río Verde is quite its main features. One of its most recognizable wide, similar to the ones of Guadalmansa and characteristics is a baptismal font shaped like Guadalmina, it has quite an extensive water a fi sh and made of mortar. surface and it is quite deep. It is told apart You will cross the Río Guadaiza when you already are in the middle of Paseo Marítimo Roman baths of Las Bóvedas of San Pedro de Alcántara, which turns into Marbella promenade and continues to the end. One of the aspects which liven up the walk along the beach promenades is their variable design. The surface can be tiled or paved, of natural stone, clay or wood. Sometimes there is a

324 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga ESTEPONA • MARBELLA: The beaches of western Costa del Sol 30 from the others by the fact that it has a lofty bridge made of metal and wood. Here ducks are quite easy to see, both wild and domestic, very used to the constant traffi c of passers-by who are either strolling or exercising. Just after you cross the bridge, search through Winches and traditional boats along the string of dunes the villas on the left bank for a plot which is not too far from the beach; this is where the Villa Romana de Río Verde is situated, a as the base for the tower shows the fact that very signifi cant archeological site. There is now the coast becomes rocky again, although a fence stopping people from getting in but fl at at the same time, which creates a good you can still see some of the mosaics with building platform compared to other terrains animal motifs and scenes and characters which may be prone to erosion. The last section from classical mythology. consists of walking along the large part of the The last watchtower of today is somewhat Paseo Maritimo with its outdoors gym equi- diffi cult to fi nd because it is higher up from pment. Pass by the Arroyo de Nagüeles, the the beach than the others, at the Punta de pretty pine grove at the Playa de Casablanca Nabules. It is the Torre de Ancón, its dimen- beach and on your right and fi nish the itine- sions and structure already familiar to the rary at the mouth of Arroyo Guadalpín, your Gran Senda de Málaga; it is situated at km walking companion which awaits you at the 24. The vantage point which has been used next stage.

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

1 Paseo Marítimo de Estepona prome- 30S 0308448 2 Torre del Padrón tower, 30S 0311140 12 m 10 m nade and Arroyo de la Cala stream 4033559 and mouth of the river 4034356 3 Punta del Castor and 30S 0312103 4 Torre del Velerín tower between 30S 0312854 3 m 15 m Río Castor 4034948 mouth of the river and the winches 4035675 5 Torre de Guadalmansa at the 30S 0314892 6 Río Guadalmansa near 30S 0315659 8 m 0 m Punta under the same name 4035959 Punta del Saladillo 4036002 30S 0317043 8 Dunas del Saladillo and 30S 0318779 7 Torre del Saladillo, tower 2 m 2 m 4036842 Matas Verdes 4037002 9 Torre de Baños at the 30S 0319663 10 Mouth of the river 30S 0320350 2 m 0 m Punta under the same name 4036967 Guadalmina 4036897 11 Termas romanas (Roman baths) de 30S 0321424 12 Basílica Paleocristiana de Vega 30S 0321706 2 m 2 m las Bóvedas and Torre Almenara tower 4037721 del Mar and the ﬁ shing settlement 4038165 13 Puente de Río Guadaiza, 30S 0323258 14 Torre del Duque tower at 30S 0324795 2 m 2 m bridge 4038985 Puerto Banús 4039654 15 Puente de Río Verde, 30S 0325757 30S 0326994 4 m 16 Torre de Ancón, tower 5 m bridge 4040512 4041217 17 Mouth of Arroyo de 30S 0327734 18 Marbella, mouth of Arroyo 30S 0329722 0 m 2 m Nagü eles 4041279 Guadalpín 4041829

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 325 31 MARBELLA • OJÉN: La Sierra Blanca of Marbella and Ojén

MARBELLA • OJÉN 31 La Sierra Blanca of Marbella and Ojén

ESTIMATED TIME 3 hours 55 minutes Arroyo de Tajo Negro Altitude Puerto de (m) las Pilas Puerto del Mirador Acebuche de Ojén 500 Ermita de Minas del Puerto de Puerto Rico Peñoncillo los Pilones los Monjes Alto 400 Camoján Ojén 300 Pinar de Nagüeles 200 Marbella 100

0 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 Distance (km)

LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 17.0 Accumulated ascent 930 Final altitude 335 Ascent km 9.0 Accumulated descent 645 Maximum altitude 517 Descent km 5.2 Maximum difference 515 Minimum altitude 2 Flat km 2.8 Altitude at starting point 2 Average altitude 360

Summary of this Stage The stage begins at the mouth of Arroyo Guadalpín, at sea level, crosses Marbella direction north-west up to Pinar de Nagü eles and then skirts the southern margin of Sierra Blanca, mainly direction east. Therefore, the walk will be constantly cutting through ravines and streams that descend from the enormous limestone mountain chain into the sea and leading you through large and small cols and mountain passes. The cumulative elevation gain is signiﬁ cant but the uphill sections are usually short. As far as anthropization (human inﬂ uence) of the terrain, there are noteworthy sites where farmsteads and even horticultural areas could be founded because of the closeness to water. Special attention needs to be paid to the mining in these metamorphic mountains, its use of aggregates, and the abandoned el Peñoncillo magnetite mines which led to the installation of the mining railway of San Juan Bautista and the 300 metre pier at the Marbella beach used for loading and shipping of the mineral. From the mining area onwards the path turns northwards, frequently leading in and out of the valleys of the eastern slopes of Sierra Blanca, already in Ojén. With the A-355 road always on your right, resembling an impassable frontier, but with the white village of Ojén increasingly closer, go up a hill with telecommunication antennas on top, from where the tarmac access roads to the village can be used to arrive at the end of the stage.

326 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MARBELLA • OJÉN: La Sierra Blanca of Marbella and Ojén 31

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage diffi culty required 2 2 2 3 4.4 0.3 12.3 x 3 Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17 Highlights of this Stage Sierra Blanca is a very special mountain system, bearing great signifi cance for the Marbella and Costa del Sol inhabitants, up to the point where it was actually a local association intent on recuperating the numerous Sierra Blanca footpaths which took care of their promotion, sign-posting and improvement (http://mujeresenlasveredas.blogspot.com.es) or focussed on clarifying any doubts surrounding the history of places the paths lead you to (www.cilniana.org). The GR-249 walker can also enjoy the surroundings thanks to the work of such volunteers, their work wholeheartedly appreciated by Málaga´s local council. La Red de Senderos de Sierra Blanca, the local network of footpaths, constitutes the fi rst incentive for the walker, offering plenty of alternatives to climb the sierra´s summits or to go back down to the sea level. Nevertheless, the strong contrast between the urban and tourist vortex of Marbella and the solitude of these mountains could be the most important treasures of stage 31. This solitude can be admired from various vantage points and cols which afford a broad view of the bay Bahía de Marbella and the Mediterranean in general, with the grey ridges behind you. The starting and fi nishing points couldn´t be any more different. There is a signifi cant distance between cosmopolitan, exclusive Marbella and the cosy village atmosphere of the pueblo blanco of Ojén, though physically they are no more than 8 kilometres away. Ojén was one of the scenes of, and was largely affected by, the terrifying fi re which happened in summer 2012 in which more than 8.000 hectares were burnt. The last part of the itinerary leads through the burnt areas west of the road, which lets you appreciate the natural recuperation progress of the native plant life.

• Starting point: At El Paseo Marítimo de Marbella, area of Puerto Rico. From these easily identifi able at the level of Arroyo de Guadalpín, at the Playa landmarks take any of the paths which lead south de la Fontanilla beach. and downhill. • Access to starting point: From the main streets • No return point: From the Minas del Peñoncillo, of Marbella, between the Avenida del Príncipe it is best to continue walking to Ojén, as it is de Hohenlohe and Ricardo Soriano. In order to quite diffi cult to shorten the way from here due get to these use any access roads to Marbella to many housing estates surrounded by fences splitting off the A-7 and the AP-7, to the east or and the road often being closed off in sections west of the city centre. between Coín and Marbella. • Finish point: Western entrance of Ojén, using the • Maps: the entire walk is on the sheet 1065-IV old road which crosses the village, the A-7103. (Marbella). • Access to fi nish point: The road which connects • District boundries: A bit more than half of Ojén with Marbella (southwards) and Coín is the the walk leads through the district of Marbella. A-355. The old road which used to connect the The walk practically coincides with the district village with the Costa del Sol is the one mentioned boundary between Marbella and Ojén from Puerto earlier A-7103, which comes off the A-355 and Rico, at km 9, to the fi rst hill of monte público at joins it again later. the Minas del Peñoncillo (km 10.5). From there • Possible “escape routes”: Best places to return on, when the path bears north, you are in the to Marbella are: the Ermita de los Monjes and the territory of Ojén.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 327 31 MARBELLA • OJÉN: La Sierra Blanca of Marbella and Ojén

a few metres with GR-249, just before you enter a wood, and it is slightly less than 9 kilometres long. The environmental agency, part of the El Pinar de Nagüeles is a natural Marbella town hall (La Delegación de Medio recreational area of Marbella Ambiente y Playas del Ayuntamiento de Marbella) has added on to the design of walking footpaths in Sierra Blanca with fi ve suggested routes. • Enjoy the walk safely Ruta 1 coincides with the one described Whilst the tangle of many footpaths consti- above. Ruta 2 is the Cañada de las Encinas tutes one of the main attractions of the Marbella – Mina de Buenavista and matches the fi rst area stage, it might also be an issue should you part of the GR as it enters the sierra. Instead abandon the sign-posted GR. In any case, it is of crossing the Arroyo de las Piedras it con- important to remember that all the possible tinues uphill. exits are in the south and also that climbing Ruta 3 (Nagüeles-Ermita de los Monjes) uses towards the mountains increases the possibility an identical route as the initially suggested walk of diffi culties. from Pinar de Nagüeles to Ermita de los Monjes A large section of the walk leads underneath (km 6.2), however it later turns off southwards an electricity line. Although this should not pose and leads down along the Cañada de Calaña. any potential danger, be extra careful if the Ruta 4, la Senda de los Monjes, in reality weather forecasts thunderstorms. leads along the above-mentioned Cañada, but There are bee-hives, correctly sign-posted in the opposite direction. in the Puerto de los Pilones, the fi rst hill in the Ruta 5 is the one which could be considered sierra. Before you reach the Ermita de los Monjes a star walk of the Marbella area, la Vereda del there is a somewhat slippery section due to the Faro. Actually, the effort devoted to recovering stretch of bare rock surface on a slope. It has the walk and releasing a specifi c publication been equipped with a rope handrail. about it was all well worth it. It is a circular, There are few streams you need to wade it goes up via Puerto Rico, turns west, and across and they are shallow, so they do not create without going up to the Ermita it leads down any problems in general. However, at the Arroyo to Marbella through Montúa. del Tajo Negro (at the end of the stage) as well The PR A-169 Marbella-Juanar departs as another tributary before that, there are quite from the old cemetery of Marbella, goes up high cascading slopes of travertine rock and you the Camino de los Cabañiles up to the Puerto should not approach the edge. Rico Alto, where it coincides for a short while There is no easily accessed water source, with the GR-249, and then leads to Refugio de especially drinking water source, during the Juanar crossing the mountains northwards. whole stage. The route mainly follows direction In order to fi nd other options now you need north-east however you are walking in the sun to proceed to the area of Ojén. From the village, in the midst of the Costa del Sol, which should at the same spot where the GR stage ends, the suffi ce as a warning. GR-243 Sierra de las Nieves departs direction • Connections to other footpaths and trails west towards the area of Juanar, where it In the Pinar de Nagüeles there is a possibility forks: one branch towards Monda and the other of doing a walk to Istán along the traditional direction Istán. This very route is also catalogued Camino. The PR A-140 Marbella-Istán departs as PR A-167 Istán-Ojén, 12 kilometres long and from Parque de Nagü eles and leads along the crossing part of Sierra Blanca which hasn´t western skirt of Sierra Blanca. It coincides for been described here yet, the north.

328 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MARBELLA • OJÉN: La Sierra Blanca of Marbella and Ojén 31

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

xcept for the rainy season when some of the layers of travertine loaded with lime. The profi le of Arroyos can carry crystal-clear waters, this the semi-circular gorge which overlooks Marbella Eis not a stage of the walk where the aquatic has numerous crevices and caves which used to environment prevails, as it can be expected in be inhabited in prehistoric times, considering a dolomite sierra with pronounced ridges, and the combined factors of a forest environment, at the altitude of the walk. Both the Arroyo de shelter offered by the valley and existence of a Calaña and Puerto Rico, which, as if for dessert, permanent water source. make up the Arroyo Guadalpín as they unite, Towards the end of the stage there is another are the drainage channels of quite extensive area of cascading tufa but much more modest watersheds and as such these streams can ones. These are two small valleys belonging to the maintain water longer in the season, enough Arroyo del Tajo Negro, which have miraculously to feed some natural pools. But, in general, escaped the 2012 fi re. At the main stream there the suggested itinerary does not let you see is a long watering trough adapted for big game these areas. At the Puerto de los Mochileros species of fauna and, later on, up to the hill with you are very close to Cascada de Camoján, a telecommunication antennas on top, there are water emergence which lends its name to a two more smaller water troughs, with the same whole housing estate. purpose, and equipped with a system of fl oaters The site of a hermitage in the valley of that keep the water fl owing from a hose which is Arroyo de Calaña was surely chosen because visible along the path and comes from a nearby of its seclusion but also the availability of water water deposit. from a spring which you will not see from the path but which is quite close, about a kilometre Aleppo pine woods reach up to the fi rst outcrops and a half walking upstream from the ruins. of Sierra Blanca A separate mention should be dedicated to the Puerto Rico, whose name refl ects the potential resources, represented by two factors of the site: two large fl at plains at two different altitudes and a water source in the upper area. The fact that the water source was taken advantage of is confi rmed very shortly as you cross the stream at the Puerto Rico Alto where you fi nd an old masonry acequia fi nished with solid brickwork. The thick vegetation hardly lets you see any cultivated areas but, a little higher up, you can see a few orange trees and other fruit trees while the human infl uence on the area is shown by the ruins of a couple of houses. Actually Puerto Rico Alto constitutes the border of an enormous ancient water fall which, throughout the millennia kept on creating a bulkhead of a rock cascade based on consecutive

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 329 31 MARBELLA • OJÉN: La Sierra Blanca of Marbella and Ojén

WALK DESCRIPTION

La Sierra de Marbella The actual coastal margin of Marbella which can be considered fl at and appropriate for construction is very narrow. This is the reason why the walk climbs into the vicinity of the Palacio de Congresos as you go past the mouth of Arroyo Guadalpín. There is a short walk along Calle Ramón Gómez de la Serna until you cross Avenida Ricardo Soriano and take direction north-west along Avenida José Mora y Aragón passing The ruins of Ermita de los Monjes above the section of Autovía A-7 which is not split into the toll road Autovía de Peaje. The long Avenida Butchinger keeps climbing north-west a path and embarks on a pronounced climb and becomes Calle Albinoni, which leads to an along Cañada de las Encinas up to a junction unused quarry converted into an auditorium used in the paths in the midst of Esparto grass and for a well-known festival. limestone dolomite rocks. The branch which And the sierra begins (km 3), its familiar view leads uphill goes to Minas de Buenavista while being the background of hundreds of photographs the chosen direction of the GR is the branch taken on the coast of Marbella and Puerto Banús going down, crossing Arroyo de las Piedras and published in gossip magazines, with the with its thickets of oleanders, and leads up to unmistakable sharp image of Pico de la Concha. Puerto de los Pilones. A fl at area on the side The walk swerves east and enters fully Monte of the track which was prepared to place here Público Sierra Blanca y Nagü eles, belonging to a high voltage electricity tower is also being the district of Marbella. You can even use the used to accommodate a few bee-hives. These city bus system to arrive at the starting point of are the same electricity lines which you have this stage but now it is time to venture out deep been following in the fi rst section of the stage. into the Pinar de Nagüeles. This is a wood made Another descent and subsequent ascent up of pointy Maritime pines, Carob trees and takes you to the top of Puerto de los Mochileros. Wild olives where the most interesting part is A third gentle downhill section takes you to a the diverse vegetation sheltered underneath the junction in the path. The path direction south trees. There are abundant specimens of good- leads to Marbella, to a housing estate called sized Savin juniper and Lentisc accompanied by Dwarf palm, Cistus, Wild asparagus and Spiny broom. The Camino along the area called Romeral used to be a forest track originally but the frequent passage of motor vehicles has worn it out quite a bit. On your left, pass by the wall of the quarry with the sign for the Auditorio de Marbella, whilst you catch a brief glimpse of the white cliffs of la Concha in the background. The track has many junctions but you need to follow the middle track which fi nally turns into

330 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MARBELLA • OJÉN: La Sierra Blanca of Marbella and Ojén 31

Urbanización Cascada de Camoján. However, cleaning job done by volunteers, both of the the GR follows the path to the left which goes building and access roads. The small number of uphill along the Cañada de la Janta. This is monks who resided in this isolated spot, ideal for one of the areas richest in vegetation due to the Franciscan order, had lived on the premises being in the shade. starting from the 16th century. The hermitage was Here you encounter the fi rst signifi cant climb, connected to the church Iglesia de Nuestra Señora whilst you walk amongst two types of pine de la Encarnación via a path made especially trees: Maritime and Aleppo; other candidates for the worshippers. The chapel was dedicated for the plant catalogue contain Juniper, Myrtle, to a succession of three Virgins: Virgen de las Narrow-leaved Phillyrea and Mediterranean Angustias, la Soledad de la Sierra and Dolores. Buckthorn. Some of these plants reach quite There are footpaths that ascend the mountain or impressive sizes. El Puerto de Camoján (km 5.4) lead down to Marbella, but, as it normally does, is a fi rst-rate look-out point. Towards the east, the GR crosses the stream and leads to a dense the direction of the walk, note the Cañada de wooded area, almost jungle-like, which some Calaña with the site of the hermitage and on time ago must have been cultivated, judging the horizon, La Cruz de Juanar. In the south, from the high dry stone walls of the terraces. there is the bay, La Bahía de Marbella, in all The second signifi cant climb leads to a vantage its splendour, with the Strait and the Rock of point (Puerto de las Golondrinas) close to the Gibraltar and the Riff Mountains on the African viewpoint Mirador de los Gitanos. On your right coast, visible on clear days. ignore a little path which follows the itinerary of La Ermita de los Monjes and Vereda del Faro. Still affording a view to Cañada Puerto Rico Alto de los Monjes, the walk climbs northwards along Descend gently direction north, leaving the the western slope of the ridge until a new junction electricity power line behind you for good now, located in the Puerto de las Pitas (km 7.4), which and follow the slope which has been affected is sign-posted. Here the options of going up the by the fi re and where Esparto grass prospers. sierra repeat, but you should turn eastwards In contrast, the bottom of the valley is very and start the descent towards the Arroyo de la overgrown and supports a dense pine wood. Laja and the subsequent ascent to the Puerto In order to get there you need to perform a del Pino, yet another privileged vantage point. slightly complicated manoeuvre walking along During the steep descent it is possible to see a section with a rope railing and next you arrive the area of Puerto Rico Alto with its neat woods at the Ermita de los Monjes (kilometre marker and the reddish rock face of the fossilised cascade, 6). There is very little left of the building but it and the footpath which departs direction east, is more recognisable nowadays thanks to the which you will be walking in a while.

La Sierra Blanca de Marbella in a dizzy drop towards the coastline

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 331 31 MARBELLA • OJÉN: La Sierra Blanca of Marbella and Ojén

In such an area, rich in water, vegetation at The mining activity was related to the the bottom of the valley becomes leafy, even production of iron from pyrite and magnetite, Strawberry trees and Portuguese gall oaks transformed in the Altos Hornos (high furnaces) start showing up on the sandy and clay soil, of the ironworks Ferrería de la Concepción y el well penetrated by water and poor in lime. El Ángel (at Río Verde). This pioneering company Arroyo de Puerto Rico (km 8.5), an old irrigation reached three-quarters of all the production of channel, a lime kiln and some ruins can be seen Spain in the mid-19th century. At the end of in succession between the two junctions with the century the industrial landscape changed the PR A-169 which comes from Marbella and when the Scottish company The Marbella Iron continues towards Juanar. From the Puerto de Ore Company Limited bought the mine. They las Golondrinas up to Puerto Rico, the Vereda closed the processing plant and updated the del Faro and the GR-249 share routes, however extraction process, replacing cables with 6 in opposite directions. kilometres of a mine railway named San Juan Surrounded by the Grey-leaved cistus embark Bautista after one of the mines. They installed on a gentle section of the walk in search of a long metal jetty at the beach to be able ship Hoya de los Cabañiles, where another junction the ore to England. The result of the long history takes you to Puerto Rico Bajo and links with of steel production was the deforestation in the PR A-169. It is worthwhile turning around the surrounding sierras of Marbella. for the views in the west and to admire the There is a boundary stone at kilometre 10.8, other face of the rock cascade, its base full right on top of another open pit mine, though of caves, where you can frequently see local the cut in the rock it creates is not visible from and visiting rock climbers enjoying the warm the path. This is where the current direction rocks. Still looking back, you can also see east changes suddenly to direction north. The footpaths leading downwards, the pipeline GR-249 has already been passing through the which carries channelled water, and a few district of Ojén, and the boundary stone marks gauging boxes. the extensive Monte Público Sierra Blanca Las Minas del Peñoncillo and the (with the markings MA-10007-JA). A thin Sierra Blanca de Ojén fence separates the wooded area which is The recent industrial history of Marbella also a hunting reserve, Reserva Andaluza de is closely linked to the area where it borders Caza, from the luxurious housing estates in the with the districts of Ojén. Past the Hoya of the woods, which have been built partly on the fl at Cabaniles, which lends its name to an old path areas on the site of old mines. The walk leads that emerges from the GR, you reach the Puerto along the limits of the monte público for quite de Acebuches, which is quite deforested. Soon a long stretch. you can see a wide fl attened gully. It is one of There are a few consecutive uphill and the mines of el Peñoncillo, located higher up. downhill sections leading along the villas, swimming pools, sports grounds and even facilities for young fi ghting bulls. Then you El blanco caserío de Ojén contrasta con la oscura Sierra Alpujata arrive at an area with well-developed pine trees of the three species: Stone, Maritime and Aleppo. More ups and downs fi nally result in a view to Ojén, just past a pile of collapsed white marble rocks which had rolled down from the quarry above. The village shines against the black mountains.

332 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MARBELLA • OJÉN: La Sierra Blanca of Marbella and Ojén 31

Mining area where the walk bears northwards

In the back, and you reach the area which has ﬁ re. The pine wood mixed with Wild olive is not been burnt. The slope is very steep unexpectedly well developed but the scrub reaches jungle-like blocked on the right by the road escarpment, and proportions as all the splendid species you have yet it sustains lentiscs, European Dwarf Palm, been seeing throughout the day tangle together Carob trees, Junipers, and a few Tree violets. right here. When you reach the ﬁ rst rest stop the The vegetation turns spectacular on the steep end of the stage is near. Reach the small hill with slopes which surround Arroyo del Tajo Negro. antennas on top, take the track which leads down Here the plant diversity is widest of the whole to the road which you cross using an underpass, stage, making a strong contrast with the areas and follow the sharp bends to the eastern part which have been affected by the disastrous of Ojén where stage 31 ends.

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

1 Marbella, Arroyo 30S 0329722 30S 0329356 2 m 2 Intersection of Autovía A 7 60 m Guadalpín stream 4041829 4042917 3 Beginning of pine 30S 0327911 4 Puerto de los Pilones pass 30S 0328786 170 m 310 m wood Pinar de Nagüeles 4044134 and bee-hives 4044797 30S 0329049 30S 0329560 5 Puerto de los Mochileros 290 m 6 Puerto de Camoján, pass 345 m 4044765 4045111 7 Ermita de los Monjes chapel 30S 0329858 30S 0330241 305 m 8 Puerto de las Pitas, pass 471 m and Arroyo de Calaña stream 4045622 4045878 30S 0330829 30S 0331183 9 Puerto del Pino, pass 445 m 10 Puerto Rico Alto, pass 390 m 4046039 4046192 30S 0331682 12 Mojón de Monte Público at the 30S 0332451 11 Hoya de los Cabañiles 370 m 410 m 4045666 Peñoncillo mines 4045319 30S 0332798 30S 0333290 13 Well-developed pine wood 415 m 14 Mirador de Ojén, viewpoint 405 m 4045973 4046760 15 Arroyo and Abrevadero del 30S 0332818 30S 0333756 500 m 16 Ojén, across A-7103 335 m Tajo Negro, stream and rest area 4047759 4048259

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 333 32 OJÉN • MIJAS: Sierra Alpujata

OJÉN • MIJAS 32 La Sierra Alpujata

ESTIMATED TIME 10 hours 15 minutes Altitude Mirador de (m) la Etapa Puerto de Puerto 620 los Carneros Colorado Puerto de la Río Alberca 520 Jobretín Charco de Centro de Mijas las Viñas Vados de los 420 Arroyos Rehabilitación Ruina y Majares Algarrobo 320 Arroyo del Laurel 220 Rambla de Ojén Alaminos 120 Entrerríos

20 0 1 3.5 6 8.5 11 13.5 16 18.5 21 23.5 26 28.5 31 33.5 36 38.5 Distance (km)

LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 39.8 Accumulated ascent 1.190 Final altitude 465 Ascent km 16.6 Accumulated descent 1.020 Maximum altitude 636 Descent km 15.2 Maximum difference 620 Minimum altitude 18 Flat km 8 Altitude at starting point 330 Average altitude 340

Summary of this Stage Stage 32 covers the distance between the villages of Ojén and Mijas mainly in the eastern direction, so one could say that it actually connects Sierra Blanca with the Sierra de Mijas. These two limestone mountain chains are united by another, very different mountain system, the Sierra Alpujata, which is composed of peridotite rock. You will skirt its entire southern margin. From Ojén you must climb up to a level of 350 metres on average to be able to walk the cols and valleys forming this reddish-coloured sierra, with mountain streams meandering through, and even maintaining stable population of fi sh. The mountains contain a multitude of country roads and forest tracks which are frequented by mountains bikers. Mountain bike might be the best form of transport for the fi rst part of the stage, given its total length of 40 kilometres and the signifi cant cumulative elevation gain. Whilst Ojén is located right at the union of two very different geologies, the enormous basin of Río Fuengirola separates Sierra Alpujata from Sierra de Mijas with its deep valley cut in the gneiss, slate, and schist, which are much more prone to erosion. This is the reason behind the major ascents and descents here. The descents are done on tarmac while the ascents on the jumble of dirt tracks which offer little hard surface. The last part, from the intersection with the A-355 road leading to Puerto de los Pescadores, takes the walker on the ultimate climb along the steep southern slopes of the Mijas mountains, passing by the Ermita del Calvario until the fi nish in the vicinity of the village.

334 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga OJÉN • MIJAS: Sierra Alpujata 32

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage diffi culty required 2 2 2 5 11.2 24.1 4.5 x 3 Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17 Highlights of this Stage Ojén and Mijas are both privileged sites on the Costa del Sol. Their whitewashed houses, the winding streets, rural environment and natural mountain environments are some of the reasons why a visit is always recommended. Both have been built on rocks of travertine origin, whose crags and caves are integrated into the villages, and Ojén also has numerous natural springs which convert its surroundings into fertile orchards. Sierra Alpujata is one of the mountain chains which, located at the back of the Costa del Sol, has been almost forgotten. The peridotite rock is one of the main rocks which form the sierra which infl uences amongst other things, the specialisation and exclusiveness of its plants and the scarceness of human settlements. These are limited to the fertile fl uvial plains, las vegas, of the very numerous streams, (which are of great importance because of the fauna they harbour) or areas of slate rock with deeper and more fertile soils where the Cork oak groves proliferate. The terrifying fi re of summer 2012 has devastated 8.000 hectares of mainly forested land where Maritime pine was the predominant species. The consequences of this for mountain ecosystems are evident throughout the tour, although fortunately there are specialist plants which have managed to overcome the disaster, growing new leaves such as Cork oaks or the non-native Eucalyptus, the Canary Island pines, germinating from scatter seeds just as the Maritime pine, or growing anew from the old stumps and roots like the Dwarf palm, Heath and Esparto. Over the years the GR-249 walkers will be able to keep witnessing the evolution of the Mediterranean vegetation which, once more, survives the blaze. At the Cerro del Púlpito, a magnifi cent lookout point, already suggested by the name (pulpit or platform), an improvised bird observatory has been established by the organisation called SEO Málaga (Sociedad Española de Ornitología, similar to British RSPB and American Audubon Society) for monitoring prenuptial and postnuptial migrations of birds to and from Africa, helped by the thermals generated by the bare stone outcrops. The Entrerríos area is much tamer and for this reason you will encounter many roads and houses which initially were farming settlements; nowadays they are residential. The hills that connect with the sierra used to be covered by dry crops and vineyards, but now have become no man´s land with an incipient thorny scrub resistant to drought, creating a landscape somewhat misplaced in time, two steps away from the coast. So it is the feeling of immersing yourself in the forests of the Sierra de Mijas, where the mountains are cut by the gashes of marble and aggregate quarries, but still preserve a part of their undeniable natural values.

• Starting point: area west of Ojén, intersection of the to Linarejos. Keep in mind that at this point there is the A-7103 road. same distance to Ojén (returning) and walking ahead to • Access to starting point: the only road is the A-355, Centro de Rehabilitación de Drogadictos. The latter is which leaves from Marbella towards the area of Alhaurín an ideal place for an “escape” since it is well connected el Grande and Coin, to the north. to the Entrerríos area through a paved track and is well • Finish point: The A-387, in the northern part of the known in Mijas. village of Mijas. • Maps: For the fi rst part, fi rstly to locate Ojén, you need • Access to fi nish point: above-mentioned road connects the 1065-IV (Marbella). Then, in that order, 1066-III with the area of Alhaurín el Grande and Coin, while the (Entrerríos), 1066-IV (Fuengirola) and 1066-II (Alhaurin best road to follow from the coast is the A-368 which el Grande).You can also use as a supplement 1066-I comes from the AP-7S and the parallel N-340, already practically inserted in the coastal urban fabric. (Coin) to have an overall view of the upper part, in the • Possible “escape routes”: there are many tracks which north of Sierra Alpujata. descend towards the south and the coast, but all of them • District boundries: you will be passing through the district mean covering quite a distance. The best idea would be of Ojén from the start until a little after crossing the Majal to follow the path or retrace your steps. Starting from the de la Parra, at approximately 14.8 km. The exact border Centro de Rehabilitación de Drogadictos the reference is at the col between the Cerro de la Luz and la Loma de area is Entrerríos. Topil, a few metres from the talc and mica quarry. From • No return point: just past the helipad and the water then on, until the end and for the remaining 25 kilometres reservoir for fi re fi ghting there is a junction which leads you are in the territory of Mijas.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 335 32 OJÉN • MIJAS: Sierra Alpujata

of road, in Entrerríos and then before Mijas. Quite frequently there is a shoulder you can follow but not everywhere so you need to be careful. Pay attention at the bend of the road where you step off the asphalt to cross Río de Charco de las Viñas at the beginning of the stage las Pasadas (km 27.5), as there is little visibility. • Connections to other footpaths and trails • Enjoy the walk safely La Mancomunidad de Municipios de la Costa There is quite a long distance between the del Sol, the local governing body, published in starting point and any inhabited areas, about 2011 a network of itineraries in which the PR 24 kilometres to Entrerríos, where there are bus A-170 Ojén-Mijas was included. Although it lines. Sierra Alpujata is characterised by scarce nominally coincides with stage 32, it differs in population which means that the walker needs to its approach to Mijas, and thus in the cumulative address facing such a walking distance as far as elevation gain and length. The good side of time and provisions are concerned. Obviously, in it is that the PR can be used as a much less summer you need to focus on water supply. There mountainous alternative. In order to do this, is only one water source along the way, Fuente instead of fording the river Río de las Pasadas del Cabañil, however it hasn´t been treated for you would need to follow the road to encounter human consumption and you must take a detour to get to it. A good way of doing this stage would the walk on top of the bridge and follow the be on a mountain bike. However, you would signs from there to the end. need to be an expert mountain biker to be able Apart form the paths described in stage to follow most of the paths which make up the 31, to Ojén, the other adapted paths are in 10 km section from the ﬁ rst ford across the Río Mijas and are conﬁ ned to the sierra. There de las Pasadas and along the streambed of the are information panels at the starting points Arroyo de los Pilones. but practically speaking these are paths which It is recommended to adapt your walking to ascend towards the highest parts and there are the available daylight hours depending on the many possibilities of circular walks. season, and to the length of the walk, keeping One of the starting points is the Puerto in mind that you need to maintain an average Colorado, and in fact the starting point is the speed of 4 km an hour including stops so that same as for the GR-249 where this walk leaves you can complete the whole stage in 10 hours. the A-387 road. Here start such walks as Ruta The streams you cross in Sierra Alpujata carry Naranja (orange walk) to Pico Mijas, about 4 little water and the fords along the tracks are km one way, Ruta Verde (green walk) from las adapted by the use of broad concrete platforms. Cañadas, same length and with a connection You shouldn´t encounter any problems at the Río to the previous one, and Ruta Azul (blue walk) de las Pasadas either, although it may seem to from la Fuente de las Adelfas, 3 km long. the contrary looking at the wide riverbed. The same happens during the long kilometre you However, our path uses the red walk, Ruta must walk following the steam bottom of Arroyo Roja or de la Cruz de la Misión (2.6 km) heading de los Pilones or along either stream bank. The east. In the mining area it connects with a short stream rarely carries any water or it is reduced to 1 km itinerary, (white walk) Ruta Blanca or of a narrow ditch which is easily crossed. Anyway, the Cantera del Barrio, and a couple more which you can use part of the PR A-170 to cross the are described in stage 33 as they coincide with stream over a bridge. There are many sections that stage during the majority of the walk.

336 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga OJÉN • MIJAS: Sierra Alpujata 32

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

he village which is the start of the stage Riparian vegetation might not be too diverse is famous for its springs, which have or that lush, since the peridotite soils are very Ttraditionally fed the fertile orchards of limiting and contain heavy metals. There are, Ojén. In fact, the pueblo is located between however, willows, oleanders, reeds and heaths two streams: Almadán and Real, and the te- in the river groves. Other river courses appear rraced orchards along the banks form a unique in the area of Entrerríos. The Arroyo del Laurel landscape until the fork of the two streams. is the fi rst one, and it descends from the Puerto The natural springs in the surroundings of the de la Alberca and then crosses into the area of village (of Almadan) Chorrillo and the Cañada Candelero, where there is the Pine of Candelero. de la Puente) are located to the west and, as The other two watercourses are at the lowest it usually happens, they fl ow from a limestone area, El Río de las Pasadas (or Alaminos) and fl ank. Another watercourse to the east is more the Arroyo de los Pilones. As mentioned, both stable and comes from peridotite. It culminates should be considered “ramblas”, watercourses as the Río Real, which fl ows directly into the where the water disappears for much of the year Mediterranean. One of the tributaries of this due to the permeability of the land. In a place river in its upper basin is the Arroyo del Tejar, so dry and punished by the sun in summer and accompanying you on the right of the path until fl ooding in winter only tamarisk have managed it crosses the path in Cordobachina. There is to adapt, several metres away from the centre a sign before reaching the cemetery which of the riverbed or streambed. The proliferation of points to the pedestrian access to the Charco kitchen gardens, country houses and residential de las Viñas, a pretty pond situated under large areas in the Entrerríos hamlet, including its name blocks of peridotite in the river bed which is (between rivers), are due to the close meeting quite enclosed and covered with willows. point of the Río Ojén and Pasadas as they from The southern fl ank of Sierra Alpujata or Fuengirola river, which fl ows a few kilometres Sierra Negra is the headwater of the Fuengirola further down beside the Castillo de Sohail. river basin. The Puerto de los Carneros at 450 During the ascent of Mijas and its sierra, you metres in altitude prevents any runoff from are walking along a line which is quite far away fl owing towards the west, while the Cerro de from the little valleys which also drain into these Juana Díaz (508 m) and la Loma del Puerto rivers but only in rainy season, hampering the prevent water draining to the south. This is existence of even the kind of riparian vegetation the reason why the streams which have their better adapted to droughts. Additionally, in origin in this part of the sierra (on its southern limestone mountains water tends to circulate slopes, which is where the walk crosses it) underground which results in extremely dry head towards the east. You need to ford or landscapes of sand and stone. cross the consecutive streams of Jobretín, Majar de Hinojo and Majar de la Parra; all The 2012 fi re deforested most of Sierra Alpujata merge to form the river Ojén. This river course meanders between peridotite, away from the GR, but is invariably on your right for half of the duration of the walk. All these streams are permanent in nature, as evidenced by the Chub and Barbel which can be seen in the deeper natural pools, sometimes in large numbers.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 337 32 OJÉN • MIJAS: Sierra Alpujata

WALK DESCRIPTION

The Arroyo del Tejar Valley The exit from Ojén in the Almadán area takes the hiker by caves carved out in ancient travertine rock at the foot of the walk and then once you are outside the village, by sign-posted threshing circles. There is a sharp decline on a concrete track to the ford across the Arroyo Real between traditional orchards, now also with subtropical trees. Immediately after that you start climbing. Before the cemetery there Sierra Blanca from the walk with the houses and gardens of Ojén are steps with protective railing accessing the Charca de las Viñas, a traditional spot for a swim, close to the village. Next pass of the schist terrain when compared to the by a farmhouse with irrigated terraces. The peridotite. Under the trees, with a few traditional path used initially is the right of interspersed Portuguese gall oaks, there are way Colada del Camino de la Puente which some Spiny Broom and Sage-leaved Cistus. leads to the Puerto de los Carneros along the When another stretch of concrete track ends, bottom of the valley. The GR, however, follows in the area of Cordobachina, you see the fi rst later a wide forest track with a good surface effects of the 2012 fi re. It came right up which winds around more but leads to the same to the headwaters of the Arroyo del Tejar, destination as the path described above, but where a few houses had to be evacuated. In on the slope on the left. The two alternative the area where Cork oak groves change to routes separate at 1.8 km. pine woods, although they have disappeared The peridotites have been ruling the lands- here, you will fi nd a few terraces of citrus cape for a while, and with them the specialist and olive groves of very small production. tree, the Maritime pine. The undergrowth, very On the next rise, turning around, you thin here, is composed of Dwarf palm, junipers, have an impressive panoramic view of the esparto grass and some gorse. The country road burned and surviving oak forests while in embankments used to be supported by rows of the distance there is the Sierra Blanca, the eucalyptus trees after construction, and they scenery of the previous stage of the walk. line the walk for many kilometres. The Ojén Town Hall and the City Council have signposted with tiled panels and crosses the fi rst junction (and many others within the village district). Ignore the junction on the left that leads to the Fuente de Cerrillares and the road that was formerly called C-337 and has now been renamed A-7103, connecting with Monda. Higher up there is a surprise: a Cork oak grove occupying a few hills that obviously contain some farmhouses because of the better-quality

338 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga OJÉN • MIJAS: Sierra Alpujata 32

The Headwaters of Río de Ojén the path, next to its helipad. Behind, direction A row of the revived eucalyptus, the few southwest, the charred ridges of the Cerro de survivors along the path up to the Puerto de Juana Díaz only maintain a row of tall Eucalyptus los Carneros (km 6.3), where you arrive at and Canary Island pine, a reminder that the best another sign-posted, multi-branched junction time to extinguish a fi re in an area as wild as and ignore the tracks on your right to Ojén this is when the fi re is still an attempt. and Marbella, the Paraje de Los Sauces and Walking further ahead you fi nd a track which Paraje de Los Molineros. Soon you reach a turns off to the right, beside a ruin, towards a new minor intersection which affords views valley where there are the houses of Linarejos. to the other side of the sierra. Here ignore The hill that bears the same name closes the the track on your left, even though you will landscape off in the south, and is also signifi cant notice that it is frequently used by walkers because around the hill there are a good number and cyclists to perform a circular route through of abandoned open pit mines of talc and mica. the Sierra de Alpujata, belonging to Ojén. This Looking rather like quarries of aggregates, they track will re-connect with our walk in a talc are not close to the walk but you can see the and mica quarry. old access roads almost everywhere. Time and The views that follow as you descend are time again you will need to ford the same two startling, especially for those who remember streams, which appear on the tiled signs Arroyo the pine wood which used to grow here. The del Algarrobo (Majar del Hinojo on recommen- colour of the bare sierra only emphasizes the ded maps) and Arroyo de los Laureles (Majar drama emanating from the landscape. There de la Parra). Either way, they are permanent are good views of the highest altitudes of watercourses with interesting fl ora and a stable Alpujata, the ridge between the hills Cerro population of fi sh, visible especially in the pond de Castillejo (1,074 m) and Cerro de Aguila created by the second stream as it cascades (1,034 m), to the north. Very close, there from a concrete ford. are the farmhouses in the small vegas at the A signifi cant ascent leads to the hill located Jobretín stream, which can be reached on between the Cerro de la Luz and La Loma de descent, after passing by another junction Topil, where Ojén district ends and the track towards the Cerro de Juana Díaz and the which coincided with the walk at the beginning Tinajones area to the right. joins the GR again. Thus you enter another The Arroyo Jobretín is responsible for valley of Arroyo del Laurel, which eventually providing water for the fi re-fi ghting reservoir joins the previous stream and forms the river a little further up, on the right and below Ojén. Now you do actually cross a mica and talc

the Cordobachina area, many Cork oaks have survived the 2012 ﬁ re

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 339 32 OJÉN • MIJAS: Sierra Alpujata

quarry located at a col, while the walk leads in a wide curve, wading across a few streams which harbour striking fl ora around the meagre fl ow and the nearby streaks of clay, especially the Upright heath (Erica terminalis). Nevertheless, throughout the walk you can see several species of small plants endemic to the peridotite mountains, some very striking such as the Armeria colorata or the Staehelina baetica, or the particular subspecies of some shrubs such A warning sign about forest fi res as Halimium atriplicifolium and Genista hirsuta, which can be very abundant at times. At the Puerto de la Alberca you will have A little further down there is a major junction walked 18 km and then you start a descent, fi rst to the left, leading into the last of the eastern passing through some interesting two-toned foothills of Sierra Alpujata (or Sierra Negra). strata, containing minerals which used to be Ignore the junction as our track turns south, sought after by the mining industry. After wading still paved, and passes by another fi re fi ghting a stream surrounded by heath, to your right and reservoir on the right. In the area of Candelero, down at the bottom of the valley, among the most ford the Arroyo del Laurel, much diminished extensive of the eucalyptus groves of the day, in the summer as it keeps filtering away, you will fi nd the Fuente del Cabañil. Actually but it does still support fi sh in the seasonal what you can see is the (unused nowadays) pools. Now you are entering inhabited areas natural pool, since the water source is hidden that in part have been affected by the fl ames amongst the vegetation and protected by a and some Cork oaks that now have already small shed. Also note, from the same lookout started to regrow. The fi re did spare the pine point, the steep slope in the east which is a hill tree called Pino del Candelero, an outstanding called Loma del Becerril and the ruins of one of specimen, more because of its uniqueness in the mining facilities, Las Minas del Jaboncillo. the midst of the farmland, than its actual size. Entrerríos As you keep walking finally you reach a mountain pass where, on the former site of the house of the Forest Guards, at the Cerro del Púlpito, there is La Comunídad Terapéutica Centro FADAS Mijas de la Junta de Andalucía, which is a drug rehab facility. This hill is well known thanks to the excellent viewpoint and is a superb vantage point to observe the regenerating grove of the erect Canary Island pine (Pinus canariensis) after it has been, literally, charred in the fi re. In 2012, for the second time in two years in a row, the occupants of the Rehabilitation Centre had to be evacuated, as well as many houses of the Entrerríos area, because of the greatest fi re in the province of Málaga in years.

340 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga OJÉN • MIJAS: Sierra Alpujata 32

The paved track becomes a road with bus both sides gullies that come down the hill to service, an indication that you have reached join the streambed you have left behind. The Entrerríos. There is a major junction at kilo- terrain changes substantially; there are gneiss, metre 24.5 where you ignore the left turn and schist and slates that have caused the path to shortly thereafter is the Cortijo del Campillo, narrow and led to its poor shape, both made dating from the 18th century. You need to pay worse by occasional quads and dirt bikes passing close attention at a sharp bend to the right (it through. The vegetation along the fi rst metres can pose some danger) as you need to leave is much denser, but there is nothing other than the road here and walk straight towards the scrub which is adapted to drought. riverbed at km 27.1. Low scrub of Spiny broom is interspersed with If you have opted for a mountain bike for Wild olives and cultivated olive trees which were the stage, this is the place where you need to tended to long ago and now are giving way to switch to walking, unless you are en expert the scrub. There is Sticky fl eabane, gorse, Ononis cyclist. On the other side of the Alaminos natrix, Genista umbellata and lavender. There river (or Río de las Pasadas) walk upstream are a couple of ruins of simple houses quite until you encounter a dry stream bed which separated from each other; the path makes is the tributary of the river and follow this, slight downwards turns but in general you are walking along either bank or the streambed walking up. There are short sections of country itself. The road which you pass under is the road but these soon disappear. Here, and also A-7053 Fuengirola-Puerto de las Pescadores in the nearby hills, there are copses of Holm road (between Mijas and Coin). This bridge oaks on the higher points, three or four at a over the Alaminos river can be used as an time, witnesses of their lost domain. alternative to cross in the case of fl ooding. There is a larger farmhouse surrounded by The streambed is abandoned to take a track eucalyptus trees and a few Carob trees on top along its left bank which is marked as “sin of a hillock (km 32.7). salida para vehiculos” (no exit for vehicles). There is an ancient threshing circle on the And so begins the long climb north-eastwards hill visible if you descend a little, and deposits along the Loma del Flamenco, passing by on of quartz in the surroundings.

Spectacular views of the sierra affected by the ﬁ re and the Sierra Blanca of Ojén in the background

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 341343 1 32 OJÉN • MIJAS: Sierra Alpujata

Now the walk connects with a wide dirt track which continues up the Matrichi, passing more and more houses on both sides, traditional and residential ones. On the right (at the headwaters of a stream) you can encounter a couple of lime kilns. There are spectacular views from any of the hills over the coast of Fuengirola, Sierra Alpujata looking back or the Sierra de Mijas ahead, which, at this point of the walk, is your destination at the end of the day. The Sierra de Mijas What is left to do now is to continue climbing Piles of burnt pine trees left over after the fi re along a couple of bends until you arrive at the A-387 road at the level of Valtocado housing estate, a bus stop and the bridge Puente de la uphill incline compared with the other walks Adelfa. The stretch of road which separates starting at this point. All the paths share the you from Mijas on the right is a short stretch fi rst section, with steps and ditches which of 600 metres, which nevertheless you need to stops this part from deteriorating, but soon walk using proper precautions. Thus you access the orange, green and blue walks branch off Puerto de los Colorados, a contrasting meeting to the left. The little valley to the right and point between white marbles, dolomites typical the foothills of the mountains are covered of this sierra and the schist of the hills that by an extensive immature eucalyptus plan- you have just walked along. tation until you climb to the top of a col with A panel showing walks prepared by the excellent views over the Costa del Sol. From Town Hall of Mijas marks the place (km 36) this point on surviving Stone pines which where different routes begin. In order to get have escaped the last fi re and small young, your bearings you need to remember that the regenerating trees dominate the landscape. GR-249 coincides with the red walk (Ruta Roja, The scrub is quite dense in the fi rst part, with Cruz de la Misión), the one which has the least Rosemary, gorse, Genista umbellata, Spiny broom, Broom-like kidney vetch and young La Fuente del Cabañil at the bottom of the valley pines beginning to peak out in between. and the old mine on the terraced slopes This area, affected by another massive fi re around Mijas, is recovering slowly, bringing hope to the future of the vegetation of the Sierra Alpujata, bridging the gap between the two affected areas and their distinct type of soil. The fi rst to regenerate here will be the pine woods, of Maritime pine initially and Stone pine. The walk descends slightly towards a very well preserved lime kiln and an information panel. Then you continue to climb towards the highest point of the day, fi rst passing by a scree slope.

3343422 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga OJÉN • MIJAS: Sierra Alpujata 32

After a waterfall. This is a superb place to have a look at your walk so far, looking west: Río Fuengirola valley with its tributaries coming from the eastern foothills of the Sierras de Alpujata y Negra. Thus you reach another intersection in Arroyo del Jobretín regaining its riparian vegetation the path where you need to follow downhill the direction to the abandoned marble mine. You can se the last cuts in the metamorphic limestone rock where blocks of it were taken, white polished surfaces and remains of material mined for construction work. Finally, arrive at a cross which indicates there is the Stations of the Cross are close, leading along sandy paths and culminating at the Ermita del Calvario chapel. The last section consists of walking downhill, ignoring a couple of uphill paths on your left and arriving at the A-387 road where stage 32 is brought to an end. Charca in el Arroyo del Laurel or Majar de la Parra

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM) 30S 0333756 30S 0334635 1 Ojén, across A-7103 335 m 2 Charco de las Viñas 245 m 4048259 4047738 3 Cork oak wood at 30S 0335769 30S 0336851 355 m 4 Puerto de los Carneros, pass 450 m Cordobachina 4048068 4047890 30S 0339284 5 Bridge over Arroyo 30S 0338778 6 Helipad and ﬁ re-ﬁ ghting 380 m 350 m reservoir of Jobretín 4047536 Jobretín 4047772 8 Ford across Arroyo Majar de 30S 0340821 7 Ford across Arroyo 30S 0340113 275 m 300 m la Parra 4048034 Majar del Hinojo 4047560 10 Puerto de la Alberca, 30S 0341830 9 Open-air talcum and 30S 0341669 390 m 805 m headwaters of Arroyo del Laurel 4049473 mica mine 4048133 12 Detour to the Centro de 30S 0342961 11 Viewpoint to the water tank 30S 0342419 Drogodependencia. 285 m 300 m 4048847 and Fuente del Cabañil water spring 4049322 Tarmac starts 13 Ford across Arroyo 30S 0344593 30S 0346258 85 m 14 Barriada de Entrerríos 95 m del Laurel 4047822 4047261 15 Streambeds of Arroyo 30S 0348281 16 Mirador de la Sierra de 30S 0349435 20 m Mijas from the Loma del 180 m Alaminos and Las Pasadas 4046497 Flamenco 4049079 30S 0350543 30S 0351352 17 Two lime kilns 250 m 18 Puerto Colorado, path 455 m 4050466 through the sierra starts 4051496 30S 0352422 30S 0352722 19 Viewpoint to stage 32 635 m 20 Abandoned marble 575 m 4051455 mines 4051284 21 Viewpoint of Mijas, 30S 0353336 465 m A-387 road 4051363

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 343 33 MIJAS • BENALMÁDENA: La Sierra de Mijas

MIJAS • BENALMÁDENA 33 La Sierra de Mijas ESTIMATED TIME 6 hours 15 minutes Desvío al Pino del Puerto Mirador de la Cerro del Moro Altitude Puerto de de las Grajas Bahía de Málaga (antenas) (m) la Cantera Puerto Puerto de la del Cerial Carril del Media Luna 900 Cerro Málaga Desvío del 800 Tajo de la Savia 700 Mijas Regajo del 600 Quejigal 500 400 Benalmádena 300

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 Distance (km) LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 18 Accumulated ascent 750 Final altitude 235 Ascent km 6.3 Accumulated descent 1.000 Maximum altitude 925 Descent km 7.8 Maximum difference 695 Minimum altitude 235 Flat km 3.9 Altitude at starting point 465 Average altitude 685 Summary of this Stage The original population nuclei of Mijas and Benalmádena are quite close together, just where the southern profi le of the white Sierra de Mijas slopes more gently. Stage 33 cannot use the direct east- west line that joins them (approximately 6 kilometres) but instead rises into the mountain, traversing the ridge and describing a north - south arch. The gradients are signifi cant here, but the slopes are made easier by the excellent design of the traditional paths. This, coupled with the reasonable length, make this stage a highly recommended one to achieve the fundamental objective of the day: getting to know this modest but interesting mountainous coastline of the Costa del Sol, much beloved among the inhabitants of surrounding villages. It is common to pass walkers and cyclists, each on their own selection of paths through an extensive network of tracks and tracks that criss-cross the woodland area. The paths covered here usually have a good earthen surface and they are not used by motor vehicles. While the tracks have an acceptable and safe conservation level, in certain sections where vehicle access is possible, the sand doesn’t compact, causing gullies and bumps which make walking more diffi cult.

Highlights of this Stage A mountain range whose peaks are between 900 and 1,150 meters in altitude, separated from the coast by 10 kilometres at most, in a straight line, has to offer excellent views of the coast of Málaga. In addition, the proportion of clear days and blue skies is very high, ensuring the spectacle. This is probably the main as- set of this stage, the successive panoramic views over all aspects of the sierra.

344 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MIJAS • BENALMÁDENA: La Sierra de Mijas 33

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage difﬁ culty required 2 2 2 4 0.3 6.7 11.0 x 1 Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17

The distinguishing features of the Sierra de Mijas are the dolomites that prevail, rocks that are derived from marble, white when fresh-cut but acquiring a beautiful grey exterior due to the weathering process. Erosion also yields red clay but more frequent than this is the bright white coarse-grained sand, forming deposits many centimetres deep. The extreme porosity of the terrain is due to the karstiﬁ cation of the rock’s cracked and fractured surface, so that the storm-water drainage is almost instantaneous, percolating toward the numerous potholes. Such a dry environment requires the incorporation of specialist vegetation, principally the three species of pine trees to be found during this stage: some Maritime pines, more Aleppo pines but mostly Stone pines. The thickets and undergrowth are dominated by the aromatic plants and thorny scrub, but in certain enclaves there are broadleaf shrubs and even Holm oak copses attempting to come back in favourable areas. One of the most complicated sectors to recover are the aggregate quarries, although small in the district of Mijas, those of Alhaurin de la Torre are extensive, this Stage allows you to visit both settings. There are a few easily recognized endemic plants along the way, some quite striking and usually adapted to the dolomite mountain sands, while highlights of the fauna are an excellent population of Spanish Ibex, which are easy to see in some areas, the conspicuous Large Psammodromus lizards and the impressive Eagles.

• Starting point: The Mijas ring road, actually number of cars pass by here. This track, which the A-387 which connects to Coín and Alhaurín goes to the telecommunication antennas, leads el Grande through the Puerto de los Pescadores up to the eastern access to Mijas where it joins pass. There is a place for parking, direction Coín, with the possible escape described before. at the end of Calle Mirador street. • No return point: In this stage it is not too rele- • Access to starting point: There are two access vant, given the closeness of the start and finish roads to Mijas from the coastal motorway AP- points. It is not advisable to continue when you 7S, taking the A-368. In addition, there is the have finished walking the forest track after the above-mentioned road from Coín and Alhaurín Pino del Puerto de las Grajas. From there the el Grande. path is very mountainous and more demanding • Finish point: At the Plaza Castillejos on the on the walker, but not for long. Once you arrive Avenida Juan Luís Peralta de Benalmádena, close at the junction between Ruta 6 (blue) with 4 and to where it joins with the Calle Luís Cernuda 3 the best thing to do is to go down because street which comes down from the sierra. it is more complicated to retrace your steps. • Access to finish point: There are various access ways into Benalmádena Pueblo from • Maps: All of this Stage is on map 1066-II the Autovía del Mediterráneo, but the most (Alhaurín el Grande). used coincides with the old road, the already • District boundries: Up to kilometre 6 you mentioned A-368. are within the boundaries of Mijas. The ridge • Possible “escape routes”: Out of all the paths of the Sierra represents the border between that turn off f the one taken in the main part Mijas, Alhaurin el Grande and Alhaurin de la of the walk, the best for a possible escape is Torre. Alhaurin el Grande is not entered, but the one which heads south from the Pino del you will go in and out of Alhaurin de la Torre Puerto de las Grajas. The others, going toward intermittently until kilometre 10.8, when you the northern slopes, are much longer. reach the asphalted track. The final part, after Another point of escape is the asphalted track leaving the asphalt at kilometre 12, belongs to that leads up to the Cerro del Moro, a small the district of Benalmádena.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 345 33 MIJAS • BENALMÁDENA: La Sierra de Mijas

point, there are two other options which go off in loops: the white path or the Cantera del Barrio, going towards the west, and the yellow path or the Cañada de Gertrudis that leads in opposite direction. In Benalmádena the scheme is repeated at the Cerro del Moro. Firstly, you can leave the asphalted track, on Ruta 5, Mina de la Trinidad, identifi ed by the bright pink colour, leading down, and along the border between Mijas and Benalmádena. Then, also heading Path between Esparto tussock and dolomite sands south, but coming from the eastern fl ank of the peak, there is the green path, number 4, • Enjoy the walk safely of the Tajo de la Sabia (with two branches) There is no single point to stock up on which you ignore, and the pink Ruta 3 or water during the entire walk, therefore you Quejigal, which coincides with the Great must be prepared. Path of Málaga. Normally there should be no problems in Alternatively, there is a short distance fi nding the path during the course of this stage, walk, the PR A-171 Mijas- Benalmádena but you should have clear ideas of where you 16.4 kilometres long, which coincides almost are if you intend to make detours or use any point by point with the GR-249. In other parts of the numerous alternatives to shorten or this very path appears under the name of PR lengthen the walk. A-171 Mijas-Puerto de las Ovejas, 12.1 km In the steepest areas loose stones on the long. Either way, the described path separates path can cause slipping, but the sections of between kilometre markers 1.9 / 4.8, where greater diffi culty for walkers are the areas of the GR leads runs along a track while the PR deep sand, from the pint where you leave the goes up to the Puerto de Málaga pass (999 asphalted track going to the antennas, up to m) and then pick up the ridge to the Puerto the immediate vicinity of the Tajo del Quejigal. de la Cantera from where it follows the ridge. • Connections to other footpaths and trails The towns of Mijas and Benalmádena have each designed their own network of paths, described using colours and you link here with Ruta 6 / blue, which is called Puerto de Málaga in Mijas and Cazadores in Benalmádena. It goes over the watershed and connects several others along the highest point. Thus, the walks described in Stage 32 Ojén-Mijas for the western area, are joined at this stage by three other paths, as well as the walk to the Ermita del Calvario hermitage (also called Virgen de la Peña). The GR-249 uses in principle the blue walk, but only until it arrives at the track where you leave the path as it continues to climb. But before this The Ermita del Calvario hermitage at the beginning of the stage

346 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MIJAS • BENALMÁDENA: La Sierra de Mijas 33

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

The village of Mijas between the mountains and the coast southwards directly into the sea, and which you will see during this stage. Their general aspect is that of dry gullies, as is the case of the Arroyos de la Seda, Hondo, del Nacimiento or de las Presas at the beginning of the stage. A different case is the Regajo del Quejigal. This ravine is located at the foot of the Tajo del Quejigal gorge and it begins at higher altitude. Although in general, when crossing you encounter only a bit of damp earth, the upwelling of water is signifi cant, and used to be more so for Benalmádena in the past, as testifi ed by the 9 level registration boxes that dot the last part of the walk. You can still see the rubber tubing as well as lime crusts left by the water on the pipes and on the walls. The sierra, on the other hand, is responsible for dispensing water which rises in hundreds he limestone nature of the Sierra de of small sources all around, distant enough Mijas, which as mentioned includes not to affect the walk, to the point that the Tthe municipal districts of Alhaurin de capital of Málaga in a not-too-distant past la Torre, Alhaurín el Grande, Benalmádena looked towards here to alleviate the shortage and Torremolinos, ensures that there is no of urban water supply through a project that permanent fl ow in a large part of this vast did not materialize and will be shown in the domain of the mountain. While the rains are last stage of the Great Málaga Path. not uncommon, surface circulation is hindered by the process of karsifi cation of dolomites. These Echiums are well adapted to the limestone sands This phenomenon results in the underground transport of water to a number of subterranean hollows that are characterized primarily by their vertical development. They don’t tend to be too deep, or to be more precise, the part that has been explored rarely exceeds thirty metres in depth. Those close to the walk are at Puerto de la Media Luna, Zagalurrera, and Arenales and that of Repetidor, approximately following the ridge line. Moreover, the sierra is the divide between the watersheds, Guadalhorce, towards the north, the rivers Alaminos or Pasadas to the west, and a series of gullies draining

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 347 33 MIJAS • BENALMÁDENA: La Sierra de Mijas

WALK DESCRIPTION

To the Puerto de la Cantera pass Taking the necessary precautions as you cross the A-387 from the street that leads to the Viewpoint, note to your left the first sign of the walks of Mijas and a plaque that commemorates the late author of a publication on the natural values and walks of the sierra. From here follow a path that coincides with a Via Crucis (Stations of the Cross pilgrimage path); there is a bench at each station of the The path ascends between Stone Pine trees Cross. Although the path takes a turn to the right a little before, it is worth a detour to see the Ermita del Calvario chapel, visited during At each one of the bends you pass a run-off the fi fteen stations of penance. This hermitage channel and as you get to the edge there is an is under the patronage of the Virgen de la Peña opportunity to admire the aggregate quarries and was erected by the Carmelite monks for from above. The rounded and shiny tops of the the time when they withdraw into prayer, then, Stone pine trees offer a stark contrast with of course, there was no road and access was the sharp profi les of the open-pit mine and more complicated. its white terraced hillsides, which fortunately Pass the chapel on your left and the path are being replanted with native vegetation. which coincides with stage 32, and continue At the foot of the walk, the slopes offer climbing. The adaptation of the Stone pine trees the sight of the emaciated rocks with their to fi re shows well in these fi rst steps since the strikingly eroded forms and the pink sand fi re damage barely remains visible other than that slips between the rock plates, proving slightly blackened trunks. The vegetation in this the instability of the terrain and the ease with fi rst part is composed of Esparto grasses, with which runoff water can erode the mountains. European Dwarf Palms, Blackthorns, brambles, The only effective remedy against this perni- Lavandula multifi da, Dianthus and Staehelina cious phenomenon is the vegetation cover. dubia. Along the hilltop path the views of the Those plants that can colonise this surface, Costa del Sol are not blocked by any obstacles, with almost no soil, appear in the nooks and except the more dense groves of pines. There are paths off to the left and right leading to the Cantera del Barrio and the Cañada de Gertrudis respectively, and when you have travelled 1,900 meters you will join a track. Here turn uphill onto the Ruta Azul (blue walk) aiming for the Puerto de Málaga pass while the dirt track levels off toward the east. Now walk around the headland of the Arroyo del Nacimiento stream leaving the Cerro del Chaparral hill and the Pico de Mendoza summit on the left.

348 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MIJAS • BENALMÁDENA: La Sierra de Mijas 33 crannies, and some of them are very striking Cantera de los Arenales quarry. At the Puerto de such as Alyssum serpyllifolium and Echium la Media Luna pass, when the track describes albicans which has a limited distribution. a wide curve toward the north, it enters for In the last section of the track there is an the fi rst time in the district of Alhaurin de la excellent vantage point that allows views Torre and a new copse of Holm’s oaks appears, along the ridge of the Sierra de Mijas which emerging from between the planted conifers. you will walk to the Cerro del Moro, crowned In an instant you have spectacular views over by telecommunication antennas. the Guadalhorce Valley, the Central Limestone The shoreline is very close to the moun- Arch and even the limestone mountain ranges tains at that point. Immediately after this, the around the Sierra de las Nieves, the Tajo del vegetation changes substantially thanks to the Aguila, a high escarpment, closing the panorama protection of the mountain, numerous Holm’s to the left. Thus we get to one of the most oaks appear between the Aleppo and Stone emblematic places in the Sierra de Mijas, the pines with Kermes oak, Juniper, Rosemary Puerto de las Grajas, where a landmark tree and brooms of good size but also a diversity known by walkers and mountain bikers as The of smaller plants. Pine (a good specimen of Pinus halepensis) points One fi nally gains access to a junction that to a cross roads. The lateral tracks go to the marks the Puerto de la Cantera (km 4.8) in lowland areas (the one on the right represents which you take a better quality forest track, a good escape road). However, you continue veering right. This track rejoins the GR with straight on, aiming for a dead-end track (km the PR A-171 Mijas-Benalmadena, coming 7.8) signposted as sin salida (without exit) for from the west. vehicles. During 1,400 meters it passes along the fl ank of Cerro Jorado getting narrower between Along the line of summits lush vegetation joined now by terebinth, Lentisc, wild olives, cistus, phlomis, abundant creepers The northern orientation of the fi rst few and Bupleurum gibraltaricum. meters of the new track means that the Aleppo Pines are much more developed, and so dense A true footpath begins in the largest Maritime that they hardly allow other plants to grow. As pine woods of the day, with tall examples that testimony to the fact that we are near quarries, can hardly be sustained by their roots due to on the right there is a disused green coloured how closely they have grown. reservoir which is property of the Compañía After a steep climb you walk along the limes- General de Canteras S.A (General Quarries tone ridge with views over the bay of Málaga, Company Limited) for supplying water to the walking between abundant indigenous shrubs

From the ﬁ rst part of the track you can appreciate the ridge walked in Stage 34

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 349 33 MIJAS • BENALMÁDENA: La Sierra de Mijas

and Joint Pine (Ephedra fragilis) until passing through the fi rst col (or saddle), the Puerto de las Tres Caleras, and a second called Puerto del Cerial, both areas with grand examples of Black Pines and Aleppo Pines. To the south the path joins with an asphalted road that could be an alternative to shorten the walk, you will also fi nd it again near the access road to a sign-posted viewpoint on Cerro Castillejo. The telecommunication antennas are visible on top of the Cerro del Moro, with its 939 meters of altitude, is also a good place for 360-degree panoramic views. Both Linaria clementei, an endemic plant of Málaga this possibility and the Route 5 of the Mina with limited distribution de la Trinidad remain to your right until you reach a junction that turns back towards the third junction. The branch leading straight on east (km 12 and highest point of the stage). is what the Stage 34 uses to go to Calamorro. The Barranco del Quejigal ravine But for now you have to fi nish what is at hand, descending through the habitat for the The steep slope, the very sandy terrain local endemic and protected plant Linaria and perhaps the path being used for other clementei, in dolomite sands. Thus we means, has made this fi rst section a place get to the bottom of the ravine to make where good care must be taken. Surrounded a detour toward the west looking for the again by dense pine woodland, the path soon Tajo del Quejigal, one of the most famous meets with a couple of sign-posted crossings escarpments of the sierra, being close to for the Ruta 4, you are now in the district of Benalmadena and for the interesting fl ora Benalmadena. The landscape now opens that is protected by the shade of the gully. towards the coastline of this town in a deep When the path crosses the Regajo del ravine along which the path takes you. Quejigal (km 15.4) between oleanders and While leaving to the left the Tajo de la reeds you will have passed by a kind of rest Sabia, not visible from the walk, the terrain area with benches and a fountain without becomes increasingly sandy until reaching a water, here is located the fi rst of the cabins

The bay of Málaga and the town, with pines and quarries in the forefront

350 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga MIJAS • BENALMÁDENA: La Sierra de Mijas 33 that accompanies and marks the way until the end. The walk climbs slightly where the vegetation continues adding numbers of species and gaining in luxuriance. The plant life installed in the cliffs of the disused quarry is very interesting, here the Views to the south, dominated by the Guadalhorce valley terebinth prevail. GR-249 turns progressively towards the west and approaches the autovía del Mediterráneo motorway, which it accompanies from where it is joined on the right by the Ruta 4, bright pink, which you have encountered higher up. A second junction constitutes another path offering this alternative. Following the inspection covers and rubber pipes that appear from time to time, pass below the AP-7S through the tunnel of Arroyo Hondo, which ends at a small Park at Luis Cernuda Street and leads to the end of stage in the Avenida Juan Luis Peralta in the area north of Benalmadena. The emblematic pine tree at the Puerto de Las Grajas junction

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

1 Mirador de Mijas 30S 0353336 2 Ermita del Calvario chapel 30S 0353299 465 m 530 m viewpoint, Carretera A-387 4051363 (or Virgen de la Peña) 4051458 3 Beginning of the track on the 30S 0353009 30S 0353532 830 m 4 Mijas quarry viewpoint 790 m southern slope of the sierra 4052134 4052661 30S 0353527 6 Holm oak woods at Puerto 30S 0354249 5 Puerto de la Cantera 800 m 850 m de la Media Luna pass quarry and track junction 4053455 4053954 30S 0354340 8 Pino del Puerto de las 30S 0354575 7 Viewpoint to the southern 745 m 795 m Grajas emblematic pine tree part of Málaga province 4054116 4053943 30S 0355777 10 Hoya de Málaga and Valle 30S 0355908 9 Beginning of the footpath 900 m 845 m del Guadalhorce viewpoint after the tracks 4054085 4053922 30S 0356361 12 Detour from the asphalt 30S 0357338 925 m 11 Puerto del Cerial pass 860 m road to the footpath 4052602 4053509 14 Detour from the Tajo de la 30S 0358476 13 Detour to the right for 30S 0357593 585 m 750 m Sabia to the south 4053418 Ruta Número 4 (walk 4) 4053050 16 Benalmádena, 30S 0359360 30S 0358693 235 m 15 Regajo del Quejigal 400 m Calle Luis Cernuda 4051322 4052664

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 351 34 BENALMÁDENA • ALHAURÍN DE LA TORRE: Between the Guadalhorce River and the Costa del Sol

BENALMÁDENA • ALHAURÍN DE LA TORRE 34 Between the Guadalhorce River and the Costa del Sol ESTIMATED TIME 4 hours 10 minutes

Puerto de Puerto las Ovejas Puerto del Altitude de la Cruz Puerto Blanquillo (m) Viejo Puerto del Viento Corrales del Cañada Tío Caliche Arenales del Lobo 600 Mirador Tajo del Quejigal 500

400 Arroyo Zambrano 300 Benalmádena 200 Alhaurín de la Torre

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Distance (km) LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 12.3 Accumulated ascent 440 Final altitude 125 Ascent km 3.9 Accumulated descent 620 Maximum altitude 650 Descent km 5.6 Maximum difference 525 Minimum altitude 125 Flat km 2.8 Altitude at starting point 290 Average altitude 470

Summary of this Stage The proposed itinerary follows an N-shape on the map. Firstly it rises toward the north from the town of Benalmadena, through the mouth of the Tajo del Quejigal gorge, sharing a path with the previous stage. Then it connects the successive passes along the ridge line of peaks that separate the inland towns from those on the coast, a traditional path of communication along a southwest - northeast direction. Finally it descends toward Alhaurin de la Torre using another ravine, the Arroyo de Zambrano and turns to the north again. Despite being a mountain path, the walk is within anyone´s abilities, not because it lacks uphill and downhill sections which actually are quite signiﬁ cant, but by using traditional paths which are well suited to access the upper areas easily and have been selected for pack-mules, charcoal makers and people from the countryside. The highest elevations of the entire Stage are in the vicinity of a bastion landmark on the Costa del Sol, the Cerro Calamorro, reached by the well known Cable Car of Benalmadena. In fact, this infrastructure can be used by walkers on the Great Málaga Path as an alternative, or to complement the itinerary. The walk, on the other hand, passes through rocky areas, dolomite sand banks, pine and Holm oak woodland and plateaus of aromatic scrub. There are constant spectacular view points over all the eastern slopes of this emblematic mountain range of Málaga.

Highlights of this Stage In the flat region of the Guadalhorce valley and the corresponding area of the Costa del Sol where the capital of the province is located, the Sierra de Mijas, in a broad sense, represents the biggest elevations in the vicinity, the first real mountains. The eyes of the nearby settlers have perused its well-visible peaks from the beginning of time.

352 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga BENALMÁDENA • ALHAURÍN DE LA TORRE: Between the Guadalhorce River and the Costa del Sol 34

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage diffi culty required 2 2 2 3 1.2 1.1 10.0 x 0 Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17 It has been a refuge, but also a source for forest resources and miners, and sort of a sponge that measures out the natural spring water for human consumption. Therefore it is only logical that each of the towns surrounding this calcareous mountain wanted to have their part in the distribution of its land. Alhaurin el Grande and Alhaurin de la Torre occupy the northern slopes, sharing their slopes up to the ridge, each town using it differently. Today it is the latter that maintains the mining activity with quarries for construction materials. There are huge open gashes (you will see them from above on this Stage) cut to remove aggregates whose destination is easy to see just by looking at the vast expanses of urban growth everywhere. Mijas has a sun trap side at the south-western end while several villages distribute the eastern part, the richest in water upwellings, and which this stage will introduce you to. Málaga, Torremolinos and Benalmadena also enter into the division, always reaching to the ridge and including watershed areas. Although there is controversy about the generic name of the mountain range between the district proprietors, the Sierra de Mijas maintains its own, very clear, identity, defi ning its limits more accurately than any other mountain area of Málaga. With this tour you can appreciate all these uses and how each town has seen different resources in the mountains, sometimes focusing on forest resources, others on hiking, rural tourist accommodation or, fi nally, on leisure infrastructures related to the sun and beach theme. Stage 34 travels in this distal portion of the sierra, further away from the central core of high peaks, but no less wild. There is a great diversity of calcareous rocks characterized by numerous escarpments that bring variety to the landscape and to the plant species that live in it. These natural values, the excellent network of paths complementary to the GR-249 and the magnifi cent views over the plains that surround the mountains are the main virtues of the proposed route.

• Starting point: Calle Luís Cernuda de Benalmádena the tourist facilities of Cañada del Lobo. You have street, in the higher area close to the Autovía del to look out for the forest track that goes down in Mediterráneo motorway. a south-east direction from the crossroads at the • Access to starting point: The A-368 road, accessed Puerto del Viento. from the AP-7S motorway, the main road which • No return point: Prior to the point described above, crosses Benalmadena. Where it changes name to the once you have seen the view of the Calamorro summit Avenida Juan Luís Peralta is where this stage begins. (km 4.8) the best thing to do is to continue forward. On • Finish point: The housing developments to the south the other hand, near the end of the stage, reaching of the old town of Alhaurin de la Torre are the highest the Corralones del Tío Caliche, there is an option to in the village, situated in the folds of the mountains. continue down into Alhaurin de la Torre, which is One of them, Los Manantiales, is based on both sides the closest village. of the Camino de las Viñas, which is the road that • Maps: You will only need 1066-II (Alhaurín el Grande). leads to the fi nal destination of the stage. • District boundries: The beginning is entirely within • Access to fi nish point: The network of roads that the boundaries of Benalmadena to kilometre 4.1, lead to Alhaurin de la Torre has its reference in the at the logically named Puerto de la Cruz, as here it autovía del Mediterráneo motorway when it bypasses converges with the district of Alhaurin de la Torre. Málaga in the South. The most logical access is the Here the ridge line is the border between this town A-404 road, which also communicates with Alhaurín and Benalmadena (up to the kilometre 5.8) and then el Grande. From the Carretera de Cartama (A-357), with Torremolinos until the Puerto del Canuto (km the access road is known as Carretera de Churriana 9.5). The GR-249 will thus jump between these three A-7052 which is linked to the fi rst. municipalities during fi ve and a half kilometres, as it • Possible “escape routes”: The escape areas are diverts around the watershed basins. Logically, the located between the Puerto de las Ovejas pass and last metres belong to the town of Alhaurin de la Torre.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 353 34 BENALMÁDENA • ALHAURÍN DE LA TORRE: Between the Guadalhorce River and the Costa del Sol

complements the previous one in terms of the different alternatives. For the fi rst 3.1 kilometres both coincide in layout but in the opposite direction, so that successively you leave two detours to your left: the two branches of the Ruta 4 (pink path) called Tajos de la Sabia. Take Ruta 3 (green path) to Tajo del Quejigal. Where the two stages of the GR-249 fi nally separate, rejoin the Ruta 6 (blue path) of los Cazadores. When you reach the Puerto Viejo, Lobularia maritima, a common plant with an extended fl owering time at the foot of the Calamorro, you will see Ruta 1 (red path) the Arroyo de los Muertos, which • Enjoy the walk safely offers different alternatives. Along this path, There are two cores of human activity during provided by the Town Hall of Benalmadena, this stage should you need assistance. One you can reach the Estación del Telecabina de of them is the Cerro Calamorro, wait here Benalmádena (Cable car) or you can walk around until a cable car arrives from Benalmadena, the fl anks of the Cerro Calamorro, ascending the exception being it does not run in very the hill up to the Puerto de las Ovejas or to bad weather. Climb to the peak following the the west to the Puerto Viejo. directions provided by the signs of Ruta 1 (red The PR-172 Puertos de Torremolinos takes path) from Benalmadena. The other point is its name from its central axis, which runs along the refuge or the lodgings at Cañada del Lobo, the ridge between the Puerto del Canuto and which are often occupied during the holidays Puerto de Viento passes. It therefore coincides and have a municipal guard. Otherwise, it is a with the GR between these places, during 2.8 solitary mountain very close to the shore but kilometres in total, but it begins and ends in it receives countless visits from walkers and Torremolinos, to the south. mountain bikers. There is no drinking water Either of the two is a good alternative if during the entire walk despite the fact that there you want to fi nish in Torremolinos. The length are a few sources within walking distance. You would need to know of these in advance and remember that the water has not been treated for human consumption. The network of paths is extensive and you would have to be sure of what you are doing if using any of the connections, especially in adverse weather conditions. Although it is an unlikely event, be careful with telescopic walking poles in the event of a storm or if the relative humidity is very high as you skirt the Cerro Calamorro, where you pass beneath a power cable that, due to the terrain, seems to be lower than usual. • Connections with other footpaths and trails As in other aspects, this stage also Path to the Puerto Viejo, with the Calamorro peak behind

354 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga BENALMÁDENA • ALHAURÍN DE LA TORRE: Between the Guadalhorce River and the Costa del Sol 34 of this almost circular PR is 9.9 kilometres de la Higuera stream to arrive at the Puerto del and it leads in the opposite direction to the Canuto. The Red path then encircles the Pico Great Málaga Path. de las Palomas and comes back parallel to the The other offi cially approved itinerary is the point of origin in the area of los Manantiales. Sendero Local SL-50 (Local Footpath) Arroyo The green path takes you on an anticlockwise Zambrano-Pico Jabalcuza. It coincides with journey, along the ridge line between the passes, the fi nal part of this Stage and is 4 km long, and then from the Puerto de las Ovejas along one way only. This is the ascent to one of the the footpath that goes through the bottom of most emblematic peaks of Alhaurin de la Torre, the Arroyo de los Muertos gorge (which is the the Pico Jabalcuza or Abarcuza, which with 609 metres of altitude is the highest peak in border with Benalmadena). the vicinity of the town and so it is also the In regard to the blue path, from the Puerto place to visit for avid walkers. del Canuto it turns to the east and then gradually Last but not least, there are the three to the south so completing a tour as long as colour-coded walks offered by the town hall of the green path, but having walked a section on Torremolinos. What they all have in common asphalt to return to the origin of the three paths is their use of the valley of Arroyo de la Cueva at the source of the Fuente del Pinar. THE RIVERS AND THE WATER tage 34 travels a long line that serves as with Benalmádena. a boundary to several of the towns on But the most important are the various Sthe Costa del Sol and which also marks springs, which, below a certain altitude and the dividing line between watersheds. Gullies thanks to the meeting of the calcareous rocks which descend from the successive cols in with impermeable materials, arise in the foothills. the north direction turn into streams much In fact, in both Torremolinos and Alhaurin de la lower down and then drain into the great river Torre, urbanized areas that skirt the mountain of Málaga, the Guadalhorce. Some modest are called Los Manantiales (The Springs), in river courses originate here: in a clockwise direction, the Arroyo del Pinar and the Arroyo Old water supply system, bordering the GR, in Blanquillo, which cross the quarries, and the Benalmadena Arroyo Zambrano that winds through the GR. The extreme porosity of the sandy soil and the natural joints and fl aws in the dolomite rock drain the surface fl ow from the channels and augment the subterranean water circulation. Looking toward Málaga and its boundaries, the only stream of any importance is the Cañada de Ceuta, along which you can descend on the blue path of Torremolinos. Already in the town, on the southern slopes, there are fi ve gorges: that of Cueva de la Higuera (criss-crossed by footpaths), the smaller ones of Pinillo, Pedregal and los Gatos, and the enormous ravine of Arroyo de los Muertos and the Saltillo which constitutes the border

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 355 34 BENALMÁDENA • ALHAURÍN DE LA TORRE: Between the Guadalhorce River and the Costa del Sol

both cases there is a string of water deposits consumption grows year by year. The exces- which follow a certain height to obtain the sive exploitation of the carbonate aquifers necessary pressure for urban water supply in is especially evident in the mountain range densely populated areas. that stage 34 runs through. There are more The aquifer of the Sierra de Mijas belongs than a hundred water collection deposits and to a hydro geological unit that it shares with boreholes in its vicinity. Each causes a drop the Sierra de Ojén and it doesn’t seem to be in the reserves which has to be replenished disturbed by the peridotites of the Alpujata. in future rainfalls. Therefore, correct water The recharge through rainfall averages 600 l/m2 management represents a progressively (some years are more than 800 l/m2) but it greater challenge for the Costa del Sol, is obvious that the groundwater reserves and it is in these wooded summits where fluctuate due to amount of rain, while the the scene is set. WALK DESCRIPTION La Garganta del Quejigal Beginning on the Calle Luís Cernuda the walk takes you under the autovía del Mediterráneo motorway through a tunnel that is also the watercourse of Arroyo Hondo stream, then twists to the right and leads for a kilometre on a gentle incline beside the AP-7S. You will pass the gauging stations of an old supply of drinking water, now abandoned, and ignore the road to the Ruta 4 path on your left. After the Notable scrubland at the head of the Garganta del Quejigal gorge ﬁ fth gauging station there is the second link with the pink path, which is also ignored, and then the path, so far northbound, veers sharply The oleander, rushes, and mare’s tails imply that north-west. The sparse scrubland of Esparto there is moisture from the substrate, although tussock grass, dianthus and thistles (including the the water spring here has long been disused. interesting and unusual Carthamus arborescens The walk then goes past a confluence and Ptilostemon hispanicus) is giving way to formed by two streams that make up the an understory beneath dense and tall Aleppo head of the valley and here, in a sunny area, pines, with European dwarf palm, gorse, fennel, is where the scrub is best represented. There Terebinth, Mastic, Mediterranean buckthorn are mature specimens of junipers, myrtles, and Juniper. Terebinth, Lentisc and buckthorns accompanied You will pass by a very shady abandoned by rosemary, European dwarf palms, rockroses quarry and from there the slope is much greater and spiny brooms among the Maritime pines. It whilst the path enters the narrow valley. After is then at (kilometre 2.7) where you encounter this there is a hillock before you wade through a sandy area, cross a new streambed and then the Regajo del Quejigal, which has the best conquer another steep slope. Toward the east panorama of the rocky cirque that closes above you can see the stark hillside on the other side you, highlighting the Tajo del Quejigal cliff with of this little valley. Being devoid of protective its Terebinth, Holm oaks and contorted pine trees. vegetation it has suffered soil loss.

356 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga BENALMÁDENA • ALHAURÍN DE LA TORRE: Between the Guadalhorce River and the Costa del Sol 34

be alarmingly close. But the most striking is certainly the clearing created by mining activity below, on the area of Sierra Llana between the two streams Arroyos Blanquillo and Pinar. Several companies are dedicated (in the district of Alhaurín de la Torre) to digging and preparing the white limestone to obtain aggregates of different particle sizes used for construction. Panorama from the Puerto Viejo to the path left behind In some places the slope has been terraced and planted with conifers, the best plant to thrive in this bare environ. There is no doubt Thus you reach the junction, seen previously, that this is a controversial issue, as it is diffi cult located close to the Tajo de la Sabia, which is to combine conservation with production, but situated a few meters behind the watershed line. even more so in an environment as fragile as Here there are links to Ruta 6 (blue path); you the Sierra de Mijas. take the right-hand path along a sector which is extremely sandy. Here is the ideal habitat The following vantage point is the Puerto de for xerophytic plants that are adapted to the las Ovejas (km 5.8), signifi cant because here you dryness and instability of the terrain (many of can access a track that ascends from Arroyo de them have restricted distribution) and animals la Miel. The branch that turns to the right serves such as the Spiny-footed lizard (Acanthodactylus to climb up to the cable car station. This is also erythrurus). Note how the examples of Stone the headwaters of the Arroyo de los Muertos pines are gradually increasing in size on the and el Saltillo, and therefore this is where some re-planted terraces. They give an appearance of the alternative paths described lead from, in of combed lines over these peaks. particular Ruta 1 (red path), in the perimeter of Calamorro. Continuing along a dirt track now, The Mountain Passes with views of the coastline, you reach a junction Gradually the slope will level out, and you of paths that marks the Puerto del Viento. As will leave behind, to the west, the views of it is usual at this height, the GR selects the the Cerro del Moro bristling with antennas, path which goes to the summit. The others are through which runs the last part of stage 33, lead towards the south-east to the Arroyo de coming from Mijas. The fi rst pass is the Puerto la Miel (a good escape route) and its cemetery de la Cruz (km 4.0), where Benalmádena and and to the north to the Arroyo Blanquillo quarry. Alhaurín de la Torre come together, the GR maintains a level of 650 metres with good Effects of the shortage in vegetation cover on the dolomite views towards Benalmadena initially, and then the Cerro Calamorro peak, after walking through Kermes oak that rest on the rocks at the highest point of the day. You will reach the Puerto Viejo pass, a hill where there are paths that climb Calamorro from Benalmadena (it is common to see groups of people at all of the viewpoints). The selected itinerary opts for the northern slopes, along a power cable that, for a moment, seems to

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 357353 7 34 BENALMÁDENA • ALHAURÍN DE LA TORRE: Between the Guadalhorce River and the Costa del Sol

The Cañada del Lobo complex is something sediments of sand and edges of the qua- that the GR will discover shortly. The muni- rries. Maybe Tío Caliche (Uncle Caliche) cipality of Torremolinos has installed here had nothing to do with this phenomenon, an infrastructure for tourism and the natural but it is certainly possible to see it lower environment, connected by public transport down on the slopes of the arroyo. access which is even lit at night. The combined series offers 30 places (in the hostel The Arroyo Zambrano and the refuge), a gazebo, the watchtower A small ruin is located near to a good and a Nature Hall. You abandon the tracks place for a little detour to the north which in pursuit of a path that zigzags along a thin allows the best views toward Alhaurin limestone pavement and leads to Puerto de la Torre, now very close. At the Choza Blanquillo (km 8.1), recognizable by a new del Caliche hut there is one of the cairns crossing leading to Arroyo Blanquillo stream marking el Monte Público (public mountain and the quarries. Just before that you pass land) that became visible from the Puerto under a power cable (between Torremolinos de las Ovejas, the next one being at the and Alhaurín de la Torre) and next to an old Puerto del Canuto. This is another emble- turret of steel and concrete. matic place, as passage through here is The limestone is gradually changing as required on the traditional roads between you pass through the bleak upland known as Alhaurin de la Torre and Torremolinos. It is Loma or Llano de los Pajaritos, devoid of trees also a place where there are three legally or thickets and dominated by aromatic and approved trails of the three different types prickly plants. The decline begins in a copse existing in Andalusia (SL, PR and GR). of tall Maritime and Aleppo pines through The access to the Pico de las Palomas, an interesting area from a geological point which is to the east, and the Pico Jabalcuza of view due to its folded and blue limestone to the north also is in the Puerto del Canuto. that was once used to build the dry stone The Great Málaga Path changes to the walls known as the Corrales del Tío Caliche northwest and descends deeply into a (km 9.1). This is a curious place name that ravine, the Zambrano, where the lush testifies not only to hundreds of metres of vegetation takes on the appearance of a built walls, but refers to a type of geological jungle with abundant growth of Lentisc, formation, Caliche, which is nothing more Terebinth, Buckthorn and Carob trees than upper crusts hardened by lime in the with rough bindweed tangled amongst

The Guadalhorce valley from the Corrales del Tío Caliche

358 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga BENALMÁDENA • ALHAURÍN DE LA TORRE: Between the Guadalhorce River and the Costa del Sol 34 other climbing plants. The density of the vegetation contrasts with the two rocky escarpments that flank the valley, the Jabalcuza to the right and the Coto Alarcón left. Terebinth thrives here, interspaced with other broadleaf shrubs. This area is a good place to look for rock fauna that characterizes the sierra, among which must be emphasized the Spanish Ibex, eagles and smaller birds. Always with the cables of a new electricity layout above, the valley will pro- The cliffs of Coto Alarcón and Alhaurin de la Torre gressively open; you must cross the stony stream several times until you reach a flat afore-mentioned calcareous concretions area inhabited by tall pine trees. Among and the slope is hollowed out by landslides. the leaf litter and the shrubs you can dis- This leads to a fenced olive grove and soon cover the crop retaining walls which are to an asphalted track. It is the Camino de disused and even a roofless hut. Perhaps las Viñas (Vineyard Road), that descends the vineyards used to be here, given the markedly to Alhaurin de la Torre among name used further along the road. orchards of subtropical crops and labourer’s You cross the Arroyo Zambrano again, houses that are gradually being replaced by just before it turns into a small pit by modern housing estates that welcome the the escarpments where you can see the end of the stage.

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

1 C/ Luis Cernuda street 30S 0359360 2 Mirador del Tajo del Quejigal 30S 0359180 235 m 380 m in Benalmádena 4051322 viewpoint 4052557 3 Beginning of the sandy 30S 0358655 30S 0359112 500 m 4 Puerto de la Cruz pass 635 m area 4053030 4053587 5 Puerto Viejo pass and 30S 0360125 6 Puerto de las Ovejas pass 30S 0360418 615 m 600 m access to Calamorro 4053693 and track 4054087 7 Lodgings at Cañada 30S 0361397 8 Puerto Blanquillo pass 30S 0361857 590 m 530 m del Lobo 4054782 and electricity towers 4055267 9 Loma de los Pajaritos 30S 0362130 10 Corrales del Tío Caliche 30S 0362130 570 m 570 m hill 4055838 dry stone walls 4055838 11 Puerto del Canuto 30S 0362566 12 Viewpoint of the gorge of 30S 0362052 520 m 340 m pass 4056041 Arroyo de Zambrano 4056557 13 End of the fenced in 30S 0361678 14 Camino de las Viñas road of 30S 0361013 215 m 125 m pines and olives 4057169 Alhaurín de la Torre 4058068

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 359 35 ALHAURÍN DE LA TORRE • MÁLAGA: The mouth of Río Guadalhorce

ALHAURÍN DE LA TORRE • MÁLAGA 35 The mouth of Río Guadalhorce

ESTIMATED TIME 2 hours 35 minutes Altitude (m) Peñón de Zapata

20 Canal de Puente Riego del Rey 15 Aeropuerto Internacional Puente sobre de Málaga el Guadalhorce 10 Espigón de la Térmica 5 Málaga Baliza 0 0 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Distance (km)

LONGITUDE (km) ALTITUDE AND ELEVATION (m) Length 12.9 Accumulated ascent 10 Final altitude 2 Ascent km 2.4 Accumulated descent 30 Maximum altitude 25 Descent km 4 Maximum difference 23 Minimum altitude 0 Flat km 6.5 Altitude at starting point 25 Average altitude 8

Summary of this Stage Stage 35 concludes the total itinerary of the Gran Senda de Málaga. It connects the town of Allhaurín de la Torre with Málaga Sur. An arduous task, if you take into account the fact that you have to cross a metropolitan area with housing estates, bedroom communities, industrial estates, an airport, extensive farmland and, of course, the estuary of the most important river of the province. The theoretical north-east to south-east line which the walker has been following so far, now goes through various modifi cations to be able to adapt the walk to various “obstacles” and at the same time let the walker discover each of these obstacles; without a doubt, they form part of the 21st century Málaga´s identity. Stage 35 is virtually fl at, with a slight climb at the beginning, and lacks any diffi culty, other than having to cover 13 kilometres of tracks. These tracks are mainly in good condition. However, they can be a bit muddy in rainy season, especially in the vicinity of the Guadalhorce.

Highlights of this Stage If there is an area of overwhelming urban dynamism, it would defi nitely be the area of Málaga and its surroundings infl uenced by the capital. At times it is guilty of improvisation, at times, probably more so, trying to adapt to the daily infl ux of population. The design of its infrastructures

360 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga ALHAURÍN DE LA TORRE • MÁLAGA: The mouth of Río Guadalhorce 35

Roughness of Navigation in Walking Effort the environment this stage diffi culty required 1 1 1 2 1.3 11.2 0.4 x 0 Pictograms description MIDE, pages 11 & 17 and housing estates seems chaotic as a result, especially to the eyes of a fi rst-time visitor. However, the fundamental task of stage 35 is to help the visitor understand how the location of the capital city of Málaga province infl uenced the situation. Málaga is situated in a cone-shaped sedimentary area which the river Guadalhorce (and Guadalmedina to a lesser extent) have been feeding deposits throughout the millennia, between the Sierra de Mijas and los Montes de Málaga. For a walk which is so close to the capital city, the natural and the agricultural are both present to a surprising degree along the whole walk. This is precisely the main advantage of stage 35 to bear in mind. As the GR gets closer to Málaga, it leaves behind population centres directly linked to tending the fertile fl uvial terraces and crops of citrus trees, artichokes, melons and other vegetables and fruit; this is a curious landscape which international fl ights passing overhead every day. As if trying to postpone the GR´s arrival in the urban area, the long ribbon of the Guadalhorce follows the path for quite a long stretch but at a prudent distance, given the unbridled nature of this natural drainage basin which serves almost the entire province. One of the best options for the walk could be setting off to discover how this major watercourse enters the Mediterranean, creating a true oasis of biodiversity between Torremolinos and Málaga. This site was declared Paraje Natural Desembocadura del Guadalhorce in 1989, preserving this magnifi cent coastal site to allow birdlife a stop during their transcontinental migratory passage and a place to breed.

• Starting point: In the area called Peñón de • Possible “escape routes”: At the beginning Zapata, in Alhaurín de la Torre, at the beginning of this stage the best escape plan is retracing of Calle del Quinto. your steps. Obviously, in the metropolitan • Access to starting point: Autovía del area of Málaga it should be quite easy to fi nd Mediterráneo (A-7S) ring road from Málaga alternatives, however there are two obstacles passes by very close to Churriana, where blocking your way: the International Airport there is an exit to Alhaurín (A-404), turn and the very Río Guadalhorce, especially when off immediately and take the Carretera de the water level is high. It is recommended to Churriana, A-7052. It passes right through follow the walk until you fi nd a road taking you the starting point in the district of Alhaurin to an industrial estate or a motorway which called El Peñón. The A-7052 also constitutes are abundant around the GR.. another recommended direct connection with • No return point: Having passed the airport Carretera de Cártama (A-357). (km 7) it is more reasonable to continue ahead • Finish point: Kilometre Zero of the Gran rather than trying to go back. Senda de Málaga in el Paseo Marítimo Antonio Banderas, in front of Diputación Provincial • Maps: Use the sheets 1052-IV (Cártama) for de Málaga. the beginning of the stage and 1053-III for • Access to fi nish point: In order to avoid the end. Additionally it is a good idea to have crossing all of Málaga you need to walk around the 1066-II (Alhaurín el Grande) and the very its southernmost tip. The exits, sign-posted as tip of 1067-I (Torremolinos). Palacio de Deportes Martín Carpena, are a good • District boundries: El Peñón or Peñón de Zapata landmark or, as well, Paseo Marítimo Antonio is one of the neighbourhoods of Alhaurín de Banderas in the area of La Térmica. This is the la Torre, constituting an entrance of Málaga area where the MA-20 and MA-21 roads lead district boundaries which starts at km 3 at a to, following the old surface of the N-340. major cross-roads.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 361 35 ALHAURÍN DE LA TORRE • MÁLAGA: The mouth of Río Guadalhorce

of the year. At km 3.1 there is an intersection with Camino de los Chopos, which crosses the river very close to the Puente del Rey bridge. When the river water levels rose, there used to be no way of getting to the right bank of the river from Málaga to the fertile gardens and grain fi elds. This was always a big problem in winter to the point of having caused food shortages. This was so serious that a grand project was started during the fi rst quarter of the 18th century in order to remedy the infrastructure and water supply problems at the same time; however the constriction work Cultivated artichokes and an airplane heading for the International Airport of the Acueducto y Puente del Rey was never completed. This stage allows you to get close to this unfi nished construction, which is compelling • Enjoy the walk safely but not at its best where the path corsses it. There are very few stretches of road and On the other hand, the Paraje Natural what´s more you can walk on the hard shoulder Desembocadura del Guadalhorce actually is and pavements adapted for walking. However, an island between the two branches of the these are high-speed roads with plenty of traffi c river which split off just as the GR crosses the which means you can´t be too careful. There is river. There is public pedestrian access which some traffi c on the dirt tracks; fi rst it is farm is best approached from the Urbanización vehicles and then traffi c related to the industrial Guadalmar, west of the protected Natural Area, estates and the airport. Normally, country roads Paraje Natural. The environmental section of which are often used by vehicles are also wide the regional government, Junta de Andalucía, enough so that you can walk safely. has prepared a series of fi ve observatories of During the design process of this stage the the fauna in the lagoons and beaches in the rising water levels of the Río Guadalhorce were fl uvial triangle. They are connected by two taken into account as they can seasonally fl ood footpaths called Senderos de Uso Público, normally passable areas. Should this happen, Río Viejo (in the north) and Laguna Grande (in you should not cross the potentially problematic the south). Both are correctly sign-posted and point which is the pass underneath MA-21 road. they end at the beach. In order to continue safely you must cross the “Acequia” irrigation channel meandering around the crops road using one of the road bridges (sign-posted as “cambio de sentido”) which you will find direction south-west. There is no source of drinking water anywhere along this stage. • Connections to other footpaths and trails All of the caminos used during this stage are related to agriculture of the Guadalhorce valley. If the traditional paths used to exist, they have disappeared in the vortex of the big city. Anyway, the Guadalhorce has always acted as a frontier and an obstacle during a large portion

362 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga ALHAURÍN DE LA TORRE • MÁLAGA: The mouth of Río Guadalhorce 35

THE RIVERS AND THE WATER

El Acueducto del Rey Next to climate and soil, the agriculture triangle The GR-249 takes the visitor to the Acueducto is made complete by water. The Guadalhorce and the Puente del Rey, dated back to 1726, a is a river which carries a substantial volume of project which has never been completed but water and so seasonal irrigation channele, the whose grand span is suggested by the arches and “asequías, or the improvised re-directed channels cutwaters made of limestone ashlars. Málaga, were of no use. Not until the 70´s of the last situated between the rivers Guadalmedina and century the so called Plan Guadalhorce was Guadalhorce, has always had problems with carried out, the river was regulated by the two water supply because of seasonal nature of the reservoirs, Embalses del Chorro, and two large fi rst river and turbid saline waters of the other. channels were constructed. The one which is of When Sierra de Mijas was being divided, the interest here is the Canal de la Margen Derecha. part of the mountains which was assigned to It runs in a pipe in some sections, and in some it Malaga city had a major water spring. When is excavated in the ground with added concrete the spring was selected to supply water to the walls; this great acequia runs along the fi nal city it earned the name Fuente del Rey (King´s part of the valley reaching Alhaurín de la Torre. Spring). The aqueduct has never materialised Channelled waters, logically, are at fi rst desti- due to the death of the architect who was the ned for consumption and only then for agriculture, project developer and because of political and especially when droughts occur seasonally. The economic problems. The city focused its attention worst affected areas are upstream furthest away somewhere else and concentrated its efforts on from the water source. These are the areas the Acueducto de San Telmo, another hydraulic which the GR helps you discover, practically the construction work of undeniable interest. last stretch before the coast. This is the reason The Puente del Rey had another equally or why there are small water stations on each plot even more important purpose for the province of land from where water is pumped from the capital which was connecting the big city with Guadalhorce aquifer, eliminating this way the the area of Alhaurín which has always served necessity for the tricky business of so-called as a granary for Málaga. The construction has surface (or fl ood) irrigation. been known as Los Arcos de Zapata but the second, most important function, earned it the name of Puente del Rey (King´s Bridge). Main channel´s sluice As far as the Fuente del Rey natural spring this is situated behind the old quarters of Guardia Civil de Churriana, in an enclosed area. Currently it is not used but forms part of the past (which could have gone differently) and it is a superb historical element infallibly connected to the unfi nished aqueduct. El Canal de la Margen Derecha El Valle del Guadalhorce enjoys an enviable climate and a fertile soil thanks to the seasonal fl ooding of the terraced fi elds.

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 363 35 ALHAURÍN DE LA TORRE • MÁLAGA: The mouth of Río Guadalhorce

You will cross the Canal Secundario de la Margen Derecha at the very start, close to El Peñón de Zapata, even before you reach the fi rst kilometre of the walk. Further up at km 1.6, it appears again, with its many sluice gates, and then it disappears underground. The channel reaches as far as Churriana. El Río Guadalhorce El Río Guadalhorce has kept the Gran Senda de Málaga company from its headwaters close to Stage 12 Villanueva del Rosario-Archidona and then from the stage 19 to 22 where it reaches the area of reservoirs. Now, as if this river´s characteristic feature. Moreover, symbolically, they both reach their end. the river´s closeness to the sea encourages more biodiversity with the arrival of species The big river has been undergoing modifi cations tolerant of saline waters. of its course and its appearance since for ever, due to its double facet as a creator but also a El Paraje Natural Desembocadura destroyer of life. The collective memory of Málaga del Guadalhorce inhabitants is full of images of the periodical La Red de Espacios Naturales Protegidos fl ooding of the city outskirts. Perhaps this is more (Network op Protected Areas) of Andalucía was of a case of having chosen the wrong location for enriched by adding this small site of 67 hectares settling, rather than the result of “nature´s fury”. which harbours a outstanding ecosystem, a Whilst nearby and upstream the river maintains small delta, like an island within and island, the spectacular riparian thickets of tall trees, this which encompasses a series of lagoons and is not the case along its fi nal stretch where the isolated river bends. In reality the area is more absence of trees is striking. The Tamarisk and the infl uenced by humans than one might imagine White poplar have lasted the longest struggling as the lagoons are actually old gravel pits where against the housing estates, retaining quite dense sands and gravels used to be extracted. This little forests. Other plants which are much more does not seem to bother the large number of resistant to the current itself and can withstand visiting water fowl which sometimes establish the pressure of the main riverbed, form carpets permanently in the lagoons.The beach, completely which create refuge for the numerous species of free of human activities, is no less interesting. fauna: reed beds, clumps of bulrushes and rushes. About 1.5 km long, it stretches between the The river normally remains somewhat far two branches of the mouth of the river. Such from the path but there are many occasions isolation as it is achieved here is doubly impor- where, if you like, you can rich the lower terraces tant for the breeding coastal species of birds, of the terrain and then the river bank. The fi sh especially given the continuous interference population and aquatic fauna are quite healthy the birds suffer during that natural process despite of the turbulent waters which are also along the major part of the coast.

364 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga ALHAURÍN DE LA TORRE • MÁLAGA: The mouth of Río Guadalhorce 35

WALK DESCRIPTION

Las Huertas del Guadalhorce The GR leaves from la Avenida Gran Canaria del Peñón de Zapata, an area of pretty gardens which shortly enters a dirt track leading through farmland. The history of these settlements, the Peñón (or Peñón de Zapata) and the Zapata, situated nearby, is closely connected to the fertility of the fl ood plains of the Guadalhorce. Crossing the Canal Secundario de la Margen Derecha marks the passage to the productive terraces El Paraje Natural is a good refuge for the fauna covered with citrus trees and seasonal fruit and vegetables. The tracks which are now being used Autovía del Mediterráneo A-7 motorway; pass correspond to the designed right angled-grid underneath its slender double bridge. Some plan of the roads and the huertas (vegetable distance later, arrive at a major intersection gardens and orchards). As a result, whilst you of tracks where you need to follow the one are walking along the irrigation channels you direction Zapata to see the Acueducto and make several turns while maintaining your Puente del Rey (km 3.9). Many of its arches are direction north-east. taken up by houses sheltered underneath. As you cross the channel for the second A little detour takes you to a bridge over time you end up on a slightly more elevated the recently channelled and regulated stream track from where you have a good view of Arroyo de Ramírez Bienquerido. Little by little irrigated fi elds, mostly of herbaceous plants. keep on approaching the coast eastwards, The fi rst large obstacle you encounter is the passing underneath another very low bridge.

El Puente del Rey, unﬁ nished construction destined to connect and provision the province capital

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 365363 5 35 ALHAURÍN DE LA TORRE • MÁLAGA: The mouth of Río Guadalhorce

Río Guadalhorce splits into two as the path crosses it

El Río Guadalhorce and the Aeropuerto both river banks, also some tamarisks and a Internacional de Málaga few dispersed white poplars. This is a busy The airport´s take-off and landing runways area: bicycles and people are passing to the follow the direction of the river. The GR-249 leads other side of the Paraje Natural and enjoy a along both the airport and the river for many personalised outing on the outskirts of the long kilometres, a landscape of cosmopolitan large city. Málaga and natural Málaga, both of which you A short section of a dirt track takes you can discover thanks to the Gran Senda. The river underneath the MA-20 in the vicinity of Palacio bed tends to be quite close and always to your de Deportes José María Martín Carpena, where you walk along the pavement of Calle left. It is crossed by a section of pipeline and Pacífico up to the roundabout Rotonda de then the train line at the level of the Industrial Sacaba, where you turn northwards and off the Estate Polígono Industrial del Guadalhorce. The pavement (km 11.5) and walk along the beach. airport runways and utility buildings used both for One of the greyish chimneys belonging transit of passengers and goods are separated to the area of la Térmica, brings back with from the GR by tall fences and service roads until its presence and its very name the industrial you arrive at another road, the MA-21.In order times of the Málaga coast and also welcomes to overcome this new obstacle the path takes the walker to the Paseo de Antonio Banderas, you underneath the road, very close to the river, where Kilometre Zero of the Great Málaga making a loop which serves to take you to the Path is located. The Gran Senda de Málaga other side of the motorway where you can use has managed to guide the visitor during its the pedestrian hard shoulder. 35 stages through the authentic Málaga It is worth stopping at the bridge as this province, which has been built by all of the is the place where the Río Guadalhorce (km “malagueños” throughout the millennia in 9.5) branches into two, with reed beds on a privileged natural environment.

3363666 GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga ALHAURÍN DE LA TORRE • MÁLAGA: The mouth of Río Guadalhorce 35

The Great Málaga Path ends at the Paseo Marítimo Antonio Banderas

LIST OF GPS POINTS OF THIS STAGE (UTM)

30S 0362678 2 Passage along the channel 30S 0362962 1 Calle del Quinto en el 25 m on the right bank of the 10 m Peñón de Zapata, street 4060809 Guadalhorce 404061385

3 Underpass of Autovía 30S 0363793 30S 0364315 4 Puente and Aqueduct del del Mediterráneo 15 m 10 m Rey, bridge and aqueduct motorway 4061927 4061655

5 Mouth of the Arroyo 30S 0365278 30S 0366890 6 Aeropuerto Internacional Ramírez Bienquerido 11 m 9 m de Málaga, airport stream 4061831 4061092

7 Bridge of Autovía 30S 0368358 8 Passage under the 30S 0369252 MA-21 over the 6 m Autovía MA-20 at the 3 m Guadalhorce 4060228 Martín Carpena 4060367

9 Chimney and 30S 0370766 10 Kilometre Zero at el 30S 0371113 Breakwater of la 2 m Paseo Marítimo Antonio 5 m Térmica 4060667 Banderas 4061373

GR-249 Gran Senda de Málaga 367

FIELD NOTES FIELD NOTES FIELD NOTES FIELD NOTES FIELD NOTES FIELD NOTES