WEC GHC Hunting Case Wedge-Ledge Crystals

$18.00 Value A superior WEC crystal with a reverse single on the bottom. Forms a right angle under pressure, wedging the ledge firmly against the bezel and its Thinnest, strongest available, plastic bottom flat to the seat of the case, crystal for cover case (hunting case) . assuring far better waterproofing. Sizes: 15-55 in 1/4 sizes 22.2mm - Available in 1/4 sizes 0.84mm - 39. 47.6mm. We also stock Lo-Dome & ring crystals in addition to the wedge ledge & hunting case crystals.

WEC50 crystal sagso Assortment WEC 50 , . WEC90 Contains 50 of the most popula~ men s. size WEC in a clear styrene contamer with Contains ~O pieces, a full range of WEC room for expansion. crystal m a clear styrene container.

SERVICE WHAT YOU SELL - Your customers Expect it!

A "must " tool for replacing crystals and closing watch case backs after battery replacement. This heavy duty steel press comes complete with alu­ minum dies giving you many years of use. The BB press is also the most versatile press with many optional dies making any watch a "SNAP"!

CRYSTAL INSERTING TOOLS 5028 - Crystal Press plus -0 tapered/3 flat fixtures for use with ring crystal ...... $245.00 503 - Set of 5 male plugs, 5 tapered plugs and one aluminum plate for conventional crystals ...... $75.00 504 - Set of fixtures included with press ...... }127.50 505 - Press plus 508 fixtures for closing case backs ...... $210.00 506 - Set of 2 supplementary platforms 32.0 & 34.0mm ...... $33.50 507 - Set of 2 larger straight wall fixtures for 508 ...... $33.50 #502B Crystal Inserter with 13 Fixtures 508 - Set of 8 straight wall fixtures for gents sizes ...... $82.50 509 - Set of 8 straight wall fixtures for ladies sizes ...... - .•... $79.50 Are you replacing batteries? Use our BB505 Combination 510- Set of 4 extra large double-sided straight wall plugs ...... $52.00 B505- BB Press plus BB 508 for closing case back. 610 - Press plus all fixtures ...... $540.00 CLOCKS & WATCHES HOROLOGICAL 8 As A Clockmaker Turns, By J.M. Huckabee Riveting Techniques for the Clockmaker TIMES I 16 Music Box Clocks, By Leo A. Jaroslaw Twelve-Tune Music Box With Six Bells, Part 7 CONTENTS 20 Safe Watchmaking, By Stanley McMahan VOLUME 20 , NUMBER 2 FEBRUARY 1996 22 Repairing Mechanical Watches & Clocks, By Henry B. Fried Forming the Overcoil, Part XII-B

28 Technically Watches, By Archie B. Perkins Antique Watch Restoration, Part CXXII, Selecting and Fitting Flat Hairsprings

32 How To Make A Verge Watch Escape Wheel, By Robert D. Porter

38 The Novice Watchmaker, By David A. Christianson Cleaning and Polishing Watch Cases, Part II

36 A Practical Course in Clock Repair, By John P. Kenyon Making A Grinding Slip, Unit 1

DEPARTMENTS EDUCATION

2 President's Message 46 Education Update By Joseph L. Cerullo

4 Questions & Answers By Henry B. Fried

6 AskHuck By J.M. Huckabee

12 Pickle Barrel By Marshall F. Richmond

19 Affiliate Chapter Column By Jack Kurdzionak

35 Book Review By Henry B. Fried

44 Rock Quarry et tu By Fred S. Burckhardt

49 AWi Material Search Network

50 Industry News

52 Classifieds ON THE COVER: Cover shot taken in Olathe, Kansas by Herman 56 Advertising Index Selecting a hairspring. See details on Kirkpatrick of Overland Park, Kansas. page 28. HUCK

By J.1\1. Huckabee, Cl\IC, FBHI

Erratic Pendulum I like the system IBM The Merits of Main­ duced force during winding. Function used on their lower-grade taining Power It requires an anti-backlash Mod. 17 Master Time Con­ ratchet and paul to hold the trol (Regulator) Movement. stored energy during wind­ What makes pen­ What is the best 1bis unit was a 60-beat Gra­ ing. In order for the setup to Q• dulum adjustment Q • form of maintaining ham-sty le escapement with be accomplished automati­ erratic? 1bis is often a prob­ power? Does it really keep the a high-grade wooden pendu­ cally, the stored energy is lem when adjusting for a motive power steady? close rate. lum rod. A pretty fine time­ less than normal operating keeper for a low-cost pendu­ force. If a stronger storage Let's discuss this lum. On the back side of the spring is used, it must be set Let's talk about • subject with relative A four-pound disc-type ball A up just prior to winding by • some examples that merits of various methods. I was a leaf spring that held the lashing the key backward. may cover one of your prob­ like dual-weight drive. 1bis rod snug in the pendulum 1bis is a good system; the lems. Loose pieces, joints, is simple and works quite passageway. 1bis spring was one I used when building my and attachments are the first well, but there is less than tight enough that the nut shop regulator. thing to look for. The ball one-half power during wind­ could be removed and the The endless chain sys­ needs to fit close enough to ing. We are operating on one ball remain in place. Adjust­ tem is also very good. Its the rod that it cannot shift weight, and some reduction ment was made by slacking negative point is that vari­ position, no matter how is caused by winding the al­ the nut several turns, then the able chain length and weight small the value. This may ternate weight where the re­ ball was driven down by between winding periods occur when it is stopped for serve power is in excess of light strokes of a soft-faced modulates the drive force adjustment. Another item is two times minimum require­ hammer, and all regulation somewhat. the adjusting nut. It should ment. 1bis is a good method. was made by adjusting the Differential winding is be long with lots of threads . A barreled mainspring pendulum ball upward. 1bis very good, but expensive so that it presents a smooth is a good form. The gear train assured that there was no and complicated. 1bis is the and flat surface to the ball. is supplied by the outside slack in the ball-rod assem­ method used for many years It's best for the lower ball end of the mainspring, and bly. Tuning rate of the nut in IBM Mod. 35 Master surface to be machined flat winding is to the inside end was about twenty seconds Time Controls. 1bis system to mate with the nut. It is im­ of the spring. This system per turn, per day. 1bis was a adds some drive force dur­ perative that these surfaces works nicely. However, the little unconventional, but ing winding. do not have a cam-action that motive power is a little those old timers could eas­ All of these systems would prevent nut rotation greater during winding, and ily hold a half-minute per work quite well in the prac­ ~d thus ball lift, from bein~ may be very great when we month which is very good tical world, even though linear motion. All ornaments reach the point of full wind. for a wooden rod pendulum. each of them has some nega­ should be securely attached. Winding must be done with You will generally find tive points. 'e Be sure that the suspension great care because the final your erratic adjustments to spring is tight in its chops, force of winding is transferred be some mechanical prob­ and all rod joints are tight. directly to the gear train. If you have any lem in the pendulum. In addition, the crutch hook­ Another system uses an que tfon please wrire: up should be friction-free. energy storage spring built 'Ask Huck"' Most lower-grade clocks into the great wheel and cord do Horological Times may have problems with one drum mechanism. This 7-01 Enterpri eDrive or more of these factors. works well, but supplies re- Harri on, Ohio 45030

6 HOROLOGICAL TIMES

Riveting the rivet is upset with a heavy cross­ ASA Many pieces encountered by the stake. This precludes our ability to clockmaker are assembled by rivet­ drive it out of the plate. A second ing techniques. This is one of the smaller rivet, with a similar upset is CLOCKMAKER oldest methods of assembly, and also shown. Each of these will be re­ widely used by all industries, even moved, new rivets made, and in­ to this day. Riveting frequently stalled. TURNS shows up in clock repair as one of The smaller rivet is shown in the most poorly executed jobs of Figure 3. Because of the spring it se­ previous repairs. This is strange, cures, the head is less accessible RIVETING because it is one of the most basic than the piece in Figure 1. To remove TECHNIQUES FOR skills we use. An old craftsman once these rivets, the upset end must be told me, "Huck, you can make a removed to permit the piece to be THE CLOCKMAKER quick assessment of a worker's skills driven through to the plate outside. by looking over the riveting and Our first step is to prick-punch the By J.M. Huckabee, CMC, FBHI staking work." upset end. In Figure 2, a prick-punch was placed in the cross-stake cen­ Objective ter. This prick should be in rivet cen­ This material will relate to two ter, but here it is slightly off center types of rivets: one that is used as a as required by the cross-stake. A structural fastener, and the other as bench top drill press will cut away a journal for a working clock com­ the upset area. Select a bit of a size ponent. estimated to equal the rivet tang di­ I don't recall ever finding a rivet ameter. The result of that work is in a commercial assortment that fits shown in Figure 4. Do not drill into the need at hand. Many times other the plate. This work gives stress re­ clock features must be altered to fit lief, and makes the rivet easy to re­ the rivet, or the rivet must be altered. move. Study the two examples in Usually this ends in a compromise Figure 5. in job quality, or a repair of which Select a driver with a point, in we could not be proud. For those this case a small prick-punch, that reasons, I prefer to use lathe-turned is smaller than the prepared area. rivets that are a perfect fit to the The included angle of the point is need. Turning a rivet is a nice, much less than the angle of the drill simple lathe job that rarely ever re­ bit used. This permits any possible quires over five minutes to diameter expansion of the rivet to accomplish, often much less time form inward as it passes through the than searching through an assortment. plate. A light tap with a hammer ex­ Rivet removal is important, as it tracts the rivet. Figure 5 shows the may damage the parent piece from rivet head over a notch in a large which it is removed. Our work will bench block. show the ease of removal, turning, The pieces are removed with no and replacement of two rivets which damage; shown in Figure 6 with the were very tightly secured into a tool used for removal. New rivets clock plate. Workmanship will be will be made for replacement. such that the repair can only be de­ tected by the most careful inspection Make the New Rivets of a hard taskmaster. The new rivets were made from a piece of brass rod about 2" long The Shoulder Rivet and 3/16" in diameter. Measure the The shoulder rivet of Figure 1 pieces and turn a rivet on each end was chosen because there is an ac­ of the brass stock. This was about a cess problem on the plate backside, 5-minute to 6-minute job with a and it is very secure in the plate. hand-held graver, with a diamond­ Turning the plate over, Figure 2, shaped point. Cutoff was made with 8 HOROLOGICAL TIMES •

For 15 years Barbara computerized drafting In the past, fellow BARBARA BLOODWORTH Bloodworth produced made it the wave of the employees have Draftsperson II precision drawings for future. Barbara success­ "commissioned" her Eveready® Watch Battery Quality and Specifications Eveready® the old fash­ fully made the switch. to decorate their Cleveland, Ohio ioned way. She drew them At home, Barbara is mom motorcycles. by hand. Then came com­ to Belinda and Horace, Jr. puters! The speed, versa­ She enjoys classic movies, tility and flexibility of painting and calligraphy.

Alook around Barbara plants. Jobs run the gamut Bloodworth's expertise, Bloodworth's workplace from battery housings and place speed, flexibility leaves little doubt that components to labels and and accuracy of design she has successfully left packaging. Often, rough among the "invisible" the drafting table behind. drafts and information benefits of each Aglowing screen, keypad received from one plant Eveready® watch and "cross hair mouse" will be shared with others battery produced. .,,. are now the tools of in its finished form. Ven­ ,./ her trade. dors receive exact draw­ Barbara's job is to create ings and specifications precise drawings and for labels and packaging specifications from pre­ materials. liminary drawings and Computer capability, information received from combined with Barbara

EVEREADY®WATCH BATTERIES Exceptional quality and dependability, the result of a sophisticated manufacturing process, a high degree . EVEREAD'l of technical expertise and people dedicated to making tile difference. C 1991 EvereadY" Bat,t.ery Company. Inc.

FEBRUARY 1996 9 Figure 1. This shoulder rivet will be Figure 5. A small prick-punch will Figure 9. Use the handle to assemble used as a typical example of many drive the rivet free. Note that it is much our pieces, then break away the clock repair problems. smaller than the rivet end. handle.

Figure 2. The plate backside: these Figure 6. Here are the pieces along Figure 10. The smaller rivet can be two rivets are secured very tightly by with the punch. Compare punch tip seen just under the hammer head. It a heavy cross-stake. size to the minor diameter of each stands proud at about 0.015 ".A single rivet. hammer stroke will secure the job.

Figure 3. Our second example is a Figure 7. Make the new rivets. This is Figure 11. The click rivet is not ac­ rivet that secures the click spring. It the large one with the shoulder. Do not cessible for a direct hammer stroke. does not have a shoulder. cut it free from the parent material. It is upset via a flat-faced punch that is larger than the rivet end.

Figure 4. The cross-stake was prick­ Figure 8. Pictured are the old and the Figure 12. The finished job-one of punched on center, then cut away. A new. The raw material stock is our which any worker could be proud. small bench top drill press was used. handle. It will be brokenfree later. Compare this illustration to Figures 1and3. 10 HOROLOGICAL TIMES a modified hobby knife. Figure 7 shows the larger one in the finished state. The lathe was run at about You can make a 3,000 RPM, with heavy cuts. Note quick assessment the chip size. Do not cut the piece free from its parent stock. of a worker's skills by looking The Assembly Look over Figure 8. The re­ over the riveting moved rivets are shown adjacent to the new pieces. The parent brass and staking work. stock serves as a handle for testing and assembly. Always keep a handle on your small parts until final use­ VIGOR® CIRCUIT MAKE~ a great time-saver. Figure 11 shows how a flat­ Repair any fine wire circuit with minimal effort ... Repaired and ready for use in An example of a part on a handle faced steel punch was used to upset one minute! is related in Figure 9. When every­ the click rivet end. The punch face CE-890 Liquid & applicator thing is in order, press the handle should be about twice the diameter downward and tip sidewise, to break of the rivet tip. A couple of hammer away the handle. My cut-off tool strokes finished this one. The tip of was about 0.020" thick with an end the click spring rivet may be visible angle of about 75°. The leading tip in the illustration; it hardly shows in was adjacent to the rivet head. This the original photograph. causes the break-off bur to be domi­ nant on the handle, and very small Evaluation of the Work on the rivet head. This precludes any Time required for this exercise head cleanup. The smooth bench was a scant half-hour. The photo­ VIGOR® RETRO-EZE block surface used in staking is rep­ graphic process added about 2 1/2 Replace new quartz movement in licated onto the rivet head, and the hours. That means if you have rivet antique watch case. Base and catalyst bur vanishes. problems, a good solution will not form a mold for the new movement. require a great deal of time. The Hardens in 5 minutes. Lock the Rivet in Place technique is more commonly needed CE-410 Two-part system We will work the smaller rivet on click rivets in old American first. This is shown in Figure 10. clocks, and various wheel-pins in the This one is accessible to a hammer striker mechanism. Those smaller stroke. The head end of the rivet is pins can be worked in much less below our click spring, which means time. it must sit on the very edge of our Let's look at job quality. Make bench block (also shown in Figure 10). a careful study of Figure 12. Note In that same illustration our that the break-off bur vanished hammer is touching the movement when the rivet tip was upset. The center wheel, and the rivet tip is polished surface of the bench block showing under the hammer head. A was replicated onto the head surface. single sharp stroke of a flat-faced Now compare the finished job of hammer does the job. However, we Figure 12 to the original rivets in SCREWDRIVER SET must give great respect for the prox­ Figures 1 and 3. Give or take a mea­ Nine precision screwdrivers with swivel hex heads. Co/or-coded for easy selec­ imity of that wheel. This rivet was sure of light reflection, these are tion. Includes 19 extra blades. upset by a direct hammer stroke. identical. In reality, a good rivet re­ SD-900 Set with stand The larger rivet was much more placement is not as difficult as many accessible on the plate's front side, but poor examples may imply. 'i Call for the name of your less accessible on the backside. I re­ nearest distributor moved the minute and hour wheels for the job. The spring barrel and wind­ 800-847-4188 ing ratchet was also removed.

FEBRUARY 1996 11 Part 15 dealt with the opening meter gauge. spring for hunting cases. The other Before layout, I would like to point PICKLE spring is the spring that holds the hold­ out that the metal should be dead soft ing catch which holds the lid closed. This for sawing or filing and bending. If hav­ is more difficult to make because of the ing been subjected to shaping with the bending and shaping of the actual catch roller mill, it could have become work so that it will make contact with the lid hardened. If it is, annealing it is simple BARREL to keep it closed. This spring rarely to do for all it needs is to be heated to a breaks, so it is likely that very few cherry red color and allowed to slow COURSE IN JEWELRY watchmakers have ever had to replace cool. It should never be quenched or REPAIR, PART 16 more than one or two in a lifetime. It placed on a cold block of metal that will might not be practical to learn to make absorb the heat from it and make it cool Hunting Case Springs this spring for the few times you will too quickly. After the layout is marked, have to replace one. There are many it can be cut out with a jewelers saw By Marshall F. Richmond, CMW sizes of hunting cases and there were using 2/0, 310, or 410 blades. Figure 1, several manufacturers of cases. There 2-B shows the layout with the shaded is no way that one article or set of draw­ areas to be cut away by sawing or fil­ ings will cover them all. The drawings ing. At this point, mark the hole where and descriptions in this article pertain the winding stem goes through, and drill to a case that was used for experimental the hole the exact same size as it is in purposes. This should give you the gen­ the broken spring. The winding stem has eral information on shapes and how they a shoulder larger than the hole that work. It takes a lot of ingenuity to make pushes the spring down to release the and install these springs, but if you are a catch, thus allowing the lid to open. watchmaker you no doubt have the me­ When drilling this hole, it must not be larger chanical aptitude and skill to make these than the shoulder. If larger, the shoulder springs and make them work. will go through the hole when the stem is To begin, the steel must be obtained pushed down and the catch will not func­ and prepared. It requires water harden­ tion properly. ing tool steel. If you have access to a The next step is to bend the end in metal rolling mill, the process is simple. order to form the catch that connects Most material houses have the water under the lid rim to hold it closed. To do hardening tool steel in round rod or wire this, make sure the steel is in dead soft form listed as steel wire. Drill rod can condition, then put it in a vise allowing also be used if it is first annealed before just enough of the steel to protrude so being rolled out flat. Since most mate­ you can bend it over. Figure 1, View C, rial catalogs no longer list tool steel, it point "a" shows with the dotted line may be necessary to contact a local where to bend the piece. This can be bent machine shop or tool-and-die shop for over by hammering, or by using a flat­ pieces of drill rod or water hardening bottom square punch to tap it over form­ tool steel in sheet form. I have a small ing a 90° angle. (See Figure 1, View D.) sheet of water hardening tool steel that With a file, the piece can be shaped to a is 1116" thick. With a jewelers saw, I can sharp edge. (See Figure 1, View E.) The The spring that saw out whatever width and length is spring must be bent into an arc and fit­ needed. This sheet is already soft but ted into the case. Filing the edges may holds the holding drill rod is usually soft and can be be necessary, but it is important to get a catch, which holds worked without annealing. If it is too tight fit into the groove of the case base. hard to work, it can be annealed. When At this point, adjustments can be made the case lid closed the desired thickness is obtained, use a on the catch lip so it holds the case lid metal scribe and mark the shape of the closed, and opens easily when the crown is more difficult to spring on it. (See Figure 1, View B.) The is pushed in. make, fortunately this old, broken spring can be used as a pat­ When you are satisfied that the tern, or the proper width can be obtained spring is shaped to function properly, spring rarely breaks. by measuring the width of the groove in mark the point where the holding pin the case with a vernier caliper or milli- goes into the spring. Figure 1, View A, 12 HOROLOGICAL TIMES point "a" shows the hole in the case, and the spring in the position to make the ever, it is necessary to polish the catch point "b" shows the "V" in the spring "V" in the spring. When this is done, where it makes contact with the lid. This where the pin is placed to hold it securely again try the spring in the case and make will eliminate wear that can be caused in the case. After this point is marked, a any adjustments necessary to make the by a rough surface making contact with slot can be sawed parallel to the edge, spring work properly. Use a pin through the soft metal of the lid. The tempered about one-third the width of the spring. the hole in the case edge long enough to spring will allow a small amount of This can be done by making a sharp protrude for easy removal, because the bending to adjust the tension of the catch bend in the spring at the marked point, spring must again be removed for tem­ with the lid. Again, the spring can be and sawing with a 6/0 blade in the jew­ pering (see Figure 1, View A, point "a"). fitted into the case and checked for cor­ elers saw. After it is sawed, straighten To temper the spring, heat it on a piece rect functioning. If it is working prop­ the sharp bend so the spring again has of copper plate until it is a cherry red erly, the pin can be cut off, and the sur­ the correct arc to fit in the case. With a color, then quench in room temperature face around it polished with a small felt square-bottom punch ground to a chisel water. With emery cloth, remove any wheel on the polishing motor using tri­ point at an angle of 90°, the spring can oxides on the surface of the spring, and poli and rouge. Finishing around the be bent by using a vise opened to the again heat it slowly on the copper plate holding pin can also be done with buff width of the ground point on the chisel until the proper color is reached. The first sticks. Making this spring is difficult, but punch. A better way is to take a mild color to show will be a pale straw, then it is necessary to make the hunting case steel block, then using a square or flat a dark straw, followed by a peacock blue, lid stay closed and work properly. Work file, cut a 90° groove deep enough to and finally a dark blue. At this time, of this type is costly, and the workman punch the "V" in the side of the spring immediately quench it to obtain a good capable of doing it should receive a pre­ to leave an opening for the holding pin spring steel hardness. mium price for his skill and time. to enter. Figure 1, View F shows the It is not necessary to polish the Adjusting the case lid can often be block with the groove, the punch, and spring, although you can polish it. How- done by bending it with the fingers, but

-point"b" mild (soft) .--+-- steel block

F

H

spring A G I,, m. mr 11 "" 11 mu "clll 111' ma:;;,;::CfU4 B

\ ...______C_ .... c=i__..______tf;3 -point -:_a" J

0 D E

Figure 1. FEBRUARY 1996 13 the reason the lid malfunctions should the coils of the old spring tightly, as this place while installing. Select a piece of be diagnosed, and the proper repairs is the tool that can be used to wind the rivet wire that is a snug fit in the holes made for a permanent restoration. To new spring around. The diameter of the in the case ends. Brass wire can be used start with, check the hinge for damage. rod should be approximately 1.75 mm, for yellow watches and nickel-silver If damaged, make the necessary repair because that is the inside diameter of wire for white watches. Slightly taper even though it requires removing the lid most coil springs used for claws. The one end so it will easily start through and replacing one or all three of the 22-gauge round spring wire can be the case hole and it will also serve as an hinge tubes. If it is properly aligned, the wrapped tightly around the rod by hold­ aligning punch to go through the tube. edge of the lid will fit flat against the ing one end with parallel pliers and Place the wire in a pin vise leaving about edge of the case. If the hinge does not wrapping the spring wire around the rod twice the width of the case ends pro­ work freely, usually a little watch oil with the other hand. Be sure to leave truding. If too much is left protruding, applied and worked in by moving the enough length on each end to shape the the wire will bend if very much pres­ lid by hand will free it up. In fact, by ends to match the old broken spring. It sure is applied while forcing it in place. working it with a little hand pressure is important to count the coils in the old The next step is quite difficult, but some correction in alignment can be spring and wrap just enough turns to the wire or pin vise can be held in a made. The most common cause for a match. Some springs are wrapped bench vise, which will free both hands case lid not snapping shut and staying clockwise and others are reverse wound, to insert the claw into the case end. Push closed is the edge of the lid is worn. or counterclockwise. This is important the case and claw over the rivet after Sometimes, using a watchmakers to remember because, if it is wrapped aligning the hole on one side. The ta­ graver, the edge can be cut a little deeper the wrong way, it would hold the claw pered end that you filed or ground on allowing the catch to hold. If not, a small open instead of closed. The ends can be the end of the rivet will guide the pin piece of metal can be gold-soldered in shaped using chain-nose and round-nose through. When this is in place, cut off order to build up the lid lip so it can be pliers. Figure 1, View G shows a draw­ the tapered end leaving enough protrud­ filed smooth. Then with an inverted cone ing of an embraceable or claw watch. ing metal to rivet, then cut off the other bur in the flex-shaft tool, the groove can Figure 1, View H and View I show two end leaving the same amount. Place one be cut back in the lid edge to allow the of the most popular shaped springs. Fig­ end of the rivet on a metal block or an­ catch to fit and function properly. ure 1, View J shows the steel rod and vil, and with the round end of the chas­ Another spring that often needs re­ how to wrap the spring wire. ers hammer rivet the protruding end. placing is the claw spring in "embrace­ When installing these springs, it Turn it over, placing the riveted end on able" or "claw-type" ladies' case and would be helpful if we had three or four the block and rivet the other end. An band combinations. The type with the hands but unfortunately we don't. How­ excellent way to finish these rivet ends claws being held with spring bars are ever, with practice and experience, the is with a cup bur in the flex-shaft tool, readily available from the material dis­ watchmaker can develop better exper­ which will leave a one-half round bead tributors and relatively easy to install. tise for these difficult repairs. The showing. When the case is polished it The type that are riveted, however, are spring-bar type can be put into the claw will appear to be a factory-installed rivet. not as readily available and because with the long "U"-shaped end shoved With the knowledge of these two types some are reverse wound, they are more into the end of the claw. The spring bar of claw spring installations, a little in­ difficult to install. The easiest way that is then put in place in the claw. Then by genuity, and lots of practice, you should I have found to replace these springs is hooking the protruding end in the end be able to make most any claw-type to make the spring. This does not require of the watch case, one end of the spring spring repairs. any tempering since spring wire is avail­ bar can be inserted in the hole on one Making these claw springs may able from material distributors in many side, and the other one brought against seem like a lot of extra work when it is sizes. The size that works well for these the other side. Using a flat tool, such as possible to get factory-made springs to springs is 22-gauge round spring wire. a case opener, the end of the spring bar fit most anything. However, if you con­ To make this replacement, the rivet can be pushed into the bar flush while sider the time in ordering, as well as must be removed first. After grinding the claw is slipped into place. Usually having to lay up the job for an unknown or filing off one end, remove the spring the end of the spring bar will snap into amount of time while waiting for the with a pin pusher. Some watches have a the hole and the job is complete. springs to come in, it is well worth the tube that the rivet goes through that must The small tube found in the rivet­ effort to learn how to make them your­ also be removed using a larger end pin type has a purpose other than a bearing self. It also saves on costly inventory, pusher. When this is done, lay the bro­ surface for the rivet. When the spring is since all you need for this is a coil of ken pieces of the old spring on the bench inserted into the claw, the tube can be 22-gauge spring wire and some brass and observe the rotation of the coils, as pushed into one side of the claw, through and nickel-silver rivet wire. well as the shape of the ends. Find a the coil of the spring, and flush with the The next article will be a discussion piece of steel wire that will go through other side, thus holding the spring in on fluxing and shielding. 'i' 14 HOROLOGICAL TIMES Bergeon Tension Ring Crystal Press For fitting unbreakable crystals with tension ring . Contains nine reversible metal stakes. in sizes 18 to 35 mm and one universal lower stake at 36 mm. No. 5500C Regular$~

Plastic Blower Waterproof Tester Specially designed to fit in hand. Tests the water-resistance of watch cases. Edging keeps blower from rolling under normal conditions of wear_ 41a" long. No. 5555 Regular$~ No. 30540 Regular~

Luminous Paint Refinish luminous hands and dials quickly and easily. Non-radioactive.

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Final-Test Mesh Bracelet Cutter For checking the mechanical parts Presto # 1 Hand Remover and Trimmer of quartz watches. such as the Pusher blocks have fiber tips that will not mar Steel cutting jaw make a clean separation calender mechanism. the dial. of mesh bracelet material. No. 5802 Regular$~ No. 30636/1 Regular~ No. 6496 Regular$~

Discounters of Tools & Supplies for the Jeweler & Watchmaker 56 West 47th Street, New York, NY 10036 212-819-0237 • Fax: 212-354-2270 •E-mail: [email protected] Toll Free: 800-223-8960 • Fax: 800-526-8682 JEWELER'S DEPARTMENT STORE WE ACCEPT MASTERCARD AND VISA Introduction In this series I will walk you through the cleaning, repair MUSIC BOX and adjustment of an antique 12-tune music box with six bells "in view" and zither. No maker is identified on the move­ ment or box. The movement has a serial number 367-57. All CLOCKS the parts are also identified with a stamped #14. (See Figure 7.1, view A.) I believe any experienced clock repairer, with care, can TWELVE-TUNE MUSIC Box WITH learn to accomplish this type of work. Most of the processes are similar, if not the same as clock work. However, in the SIX BELLS, PART 7 beginning at least, I would recommend that you limit your­ self to disassembly, cleaning, minor repairs, reassembly and BY LEO A. JAROSLAW adjustment. Major repairs should be sent out to experts. A ©1992 (All rights reserved by the author) short list will be provided at the end of the series. If this series sparks your interest, I will suggest a bibliog­ raphy of the fields, as well as a source of parts supply. These books go into more detail, especially for the delicate major repairs. As we proceed through this "walk through," I will be photographing each step. Please note that during the disas­ sembly and inspection, the photos will show the equipment is in the condition in which it was received. The nomenclature I will use is from a series of exploded views of the various components with their names found in The Musical Box Handbook-Cylinder Boxes, second edi­ tion, Vol. 1, by Graham Webb. For a few of the parts, I had to invent names. The unit we will be discussing is more complicated than anything a first timer should tackle. However, as we go through I will explain the differences between this box and the more common boxes without bells or drums. Drum op­ eration is similar to bell operation. Before actually starting any disassembly, you must ex­ amine the box and its components. Note any obvious dam­ age. Check all the controls for proper operation, especially if the box will run. Check the wooden partitions (8) for fit. With a running box check: • Geneva Lock (33)-Smooth running without bind or looseness. • Tune Change-Positive engagement of the change/re­ peat lever ( 11) with the change snail. • Governor (Figure 1, view C)-Stop tail (23) on the end­ less screw (15) for clearance with stop arm (22) through­ out the tune. Positive engagement with the stop arm for instant stop. Stop arm spring (21) strong enough for proper action of the stop arm. While running, listen for chafing and/or buzzing noises which would indicate something loose. If so, when disas­ sembling keep alert to find the problem. Then run down spring This is the seventh in a series of articles by the author until stopped by the Geneva stop, at the end of a tune. published in Horological Times at various times. The first With a non-running box check: For broken spring by article in the series, Parts 1 through 6, dealt with Repeater, actuating the winding lever (9). Inspect for any other obvious Quarter Striker and Petite/Grande Sonnerie clocks. The problem. rest of the series, beginning with Part 7, deals with Music Note: In the following text, main action steps are whole Box Clocks. numbered (1); substeps are decimal numbered (1.1); expla- 16 HOROLOGICAL TIMES 9 View E- Complete Movement Removed from Box VieH A- Viusic Box Discussed in this Series

T 14 13

4 View D- Spring(motor) Assembly View C- Governor

23 Stop Tail 1 Cylinder Assembly 12 Zither Attachment 2 Comb Assembly 13 Lead Tuning Weights 24 Worm wheel 3 Governor Assembly 14 Bell Teeth 25 Jewel Plate 15 Endless Screw 26 Spring Barrel 4 Spring(motor) Assembly 27 Spring Bbl Big Wheel S Bed Plate 16 Endless Screw Peep Hole 17 Fan,Airbrake or Butterfly 28 Upper Spring Bbl Click 6 Bells in View 29 Cylinder Drive Wheel 7 Bell Hammers 18 Governor Bracket 30 ~1otor Bridge 8 Wood Partition 19 Ad~ustable bearing screw 20 Governor Block 31 Cylinder Bridge 9 Winding Lever 32 Cylinder Arbor 10 Start/ Stop Control 21 Stop Spring 33 Male Geneva Stop 11 Tune Change Control 22 Stop Arm

Figure 7.1 Major music box components.

FEBRUARY 1996 17 nations and procedures are Notes. Critical points where dam­ age to equipment, movement or injury to yourself are de­ 1 2 scribed under Cautions. Warnings describe operations which 3 could result in severe personal injury.

Disassembly and Inspection 1. Remove wooden partitions (8). Examine for condition, cracks, splits, warps and fit in slots. 2. Inspect controls for condition, freedom of movement, and rust. 3. Set partitions aside. Note: During disassembly, take notes of what you find. Mark screws and diagram position of related components. 4. Remove movement from box. (See Figure 2.1, view E.) Note: There are two main methods of mounting the 34 Comb Mounting Screw/Washer movement in the box. The early boxes were attached by four screws. Two screws with washers went through the front of the box, threaded into the movement bed plate. Figure 7.2. Movement safely on blocks The other two attached similarly through the back. Later boxes had three wooden screws through holes in the bed plate. These screws were secured into a raised wooden platform (block) on either side of the movement, fixed to the bottom of the box. The box we are discussing is of the latter type. Caution: Before removing any mounting screws, make Restore Profits! certain that the movement is stopped at the end of a tune. Historic Timekeepers, lnc.'s 4 .1. Roll a small sheet of paper, place it in the governor Ultrasonic Cleaning Concentrate bracket (18) to prevent the fan (17) from turning and starting Evaluated and rated EXCELLENT by Roy Hovey the movement during removal. • Biodegradable! • Non-hazardous shipping! 4.2. Remove winding lever (9) to prevent inadvertent • Odorless! • Lacquer friendly! winding of the spring (4) in views D and E. • 1 gallon makes 8 gallons Caution: The movements in early boxes had legs to $26 per gallon $7 per pint stand on when removed from the box. On the later move­ plus $4 shipping plus $3 shipping ments such as the one we are working on, there are no legs. Send check to: Therefore, it cannot stand alone on a table for work without Historic Timekeepers, Inc. • P.O. Box 69 • Fork, MD 21051 damaging the cylinder pins. In order to protect the delicate • Available through Timesavers • Dealer inquiries invited moving parts it is absolutely a must that the movement rest on two blocks, one at each end, as it was mounted in the box. I use pieces of 2x4 lumber. 4.3. Remove screws. 4. 3.1. Gently lift the movement, placing it on the blocks which were previously prepared. (See Figure 7 .2.) HERMLE - KIENINGER - URGOS Caution: Two components, the comb (2), and the cylin­ MOVEMENTS FROM der ( 1) can damage each other, in case of a run. A run can be Jli)uttcr\.uort1J 'ltlochs, Jhtc. described as an uncontrolled high-speed rotation of the cyl­ inder. The cylinder may "run" if any tension is left on the • largest distributor of Hermie movements spring, and an attempt is made to disconnect and remove the • distributor of Kieninger movements and parts cylinder. • exclusive distributor of Urges movements Due to this possibility, the two units must be separated as • over 100 models in stock--largest selection in the U.S. soon as possible. The comb must come off first. TOLL-FREE (800) 258-5418 Note: On the older handmade movements, each screw 1715 Pearlview Ct. • Muscatine, IA 52761 (34) was a fit in its own hole (see Figure 7.2). The screws Factory-fresh • Most models bronze brushed were marked by the maker. In later movements, the screws Same day shipping, 2-year warranty were machine-made and not always marked. Call for tree price list This ends Part 7. In Part 8, we will continue with the 18 HOROLOGICAL TIMES disassembly. ~ AFFILIATE CHAPTER COLUMN

By Jack Kurdzionak

''The Fault Dear Brutus" not bring back the supply clock makers all over this As Cassius said to Brutus, The concept of responsi- houses that were once in the country who can take an ap- "Men at some time are mas- bility for circumstances is downtown ofevery major city prentice into his workshop and ters of their fates." We can be not new. A rereading of in this country. Finally, we can- teach him at his own bench. in control ofthe fate ofour pro- Shakespeare's play Julius not bring back all of those Those of us who operate fession. Our future members Caesar brings to mind the fa- schools, now closed, that retail shops can certainly en- and our future as an organiza- miliar quotation, "Men at taught watch and clock mak- cow-age these people to help tion will be found in the hearts some time are masters of their ing. We must begin again, but in the shop and learn the craft and hands of the people we fates: The fault, dear Brutus, we cannot repeat the past. It is from the best teacher in the help now, while we are still is not in our stars, but in our- gone and we must look into the area, the practicing watch or able to do it. Take the time and selves, ... " future. clockmaker. Sure it will take reward yourself with a helper The varied condition of One place we can start is some of your precious time to or an apprentice in your shop affiliate chapters around the at our own benches, work- train the newcomer, but can or at your bench. Listen for the country has not been preor- shops, and stores. Before we you think of a better way to inquisitive signals an interested dained by the fates or the stars. get any older, each ofus should give something back to the person will give to you about The horological profession in- be helping a young apprentice craft that has given you a life- your profession. Not every in- eluding the manufacturing and to learn the profession from us. time of employment? Many terested person will work out repairing of watches and When I say a young appren- people would be happy to be in our craft, but many will and clocks has undergone drastic tice, I mean a young appren- able to sweep the floor and that is the way we will build changes in the past generation. tice, not someone who has re- clean the showcases in a watch our profession and its associa- The stresses resulting from tired from a full career in an- or clock shop if given the op- tion, AWI. We will build it one these changes have affected other industry. We always wel- portunity to learn the profes- person at a time and it will every aspect of the profession come and admire people who sion while helping. grow and prosper. including our professional as- have changed careers and The next time some per- Postscript: We have just sociations, at both local and come to the horological pro- son expresses an interest in the received a letter from Jim national levels. fessions, but our real future lies profession to you, please invite Lubic, AWI's Educational and The focus ofthis monthly in the young folks who have a that person into your shop to Technical Director, announc- column is to address issues fac- keen mind and skillful hands tryhishandatrepairingaclock ing thathe is working on anew ing the AWI local affiliates that just need some encourage- or a watch. I can assure you, schedule of bench courses for around the country. The occur- ment and guidance to become every time you train someone the next fiscal year. Jimis seek- rences in the past that have af- horologists. Is there any good in our craft, you will be re- ing input from our affiliate fected our local memberships reason why a young person warded in many ways. Most chapters so that he can sched- cannot be changed. We cannot who displays an interest in importantly, you will gain the ule bench courses with our bring back all of those WWII horology should not be invited satisfaction of helping some- needs in mind. ifat all possible. veterans who filled our mem- into your workshop on aregu- one learn the craft you have This is a good follow-up to the bership rosters and have since lar basis to study your craft enjoyed. In addition, you will above article about being mas- retired or passed on. We can- under you as an instructor? For learn by teaching the craft be- ters of your fate. Call Jim at not bring back the long gone most people, attending a watch cause it will encomage you to AWI Central with any ques- watch and clock manufactur- or clock making school is out learn more yourself. If you tions about the courses avail- ers who closed their shops in of the question because there want to learn more about able to us. Don't wait for the the face of some very stiff are so few of them left in the something, one of the best course to come to you. Take competitionfrommanufactur- United States. There are still ways is to teach it to someone action and make the course ers in other countries. We can- plenty ofcompetent watch and else. come to you in your area. 'l FEBRUARY 1996 19 SAFE WATCHMAKING

BY STANLEY MCMAHAN

Have you ever slipped and cut yourself with a spring Debris in the Eyes bar tool? How about stabbing yourself with your twee­ Another common injury is debris (grinding dust, metal zers? Can you find the closest source of water by follow­ particles, escape wheels, etc.) getting lodged in the eyes. ing the trail of blood on the floor from your bench to the This can be very painful and cause great discomfort. sink? Well, I can and I'm just glad I don't work in a saw­ Needless to say, when using a buffer or grinding wheel mill. There wouldn't be much left. First aid and safety of any kind, it is indispensable to wear some sort of eye precautions are often overlooked by watch repairmen. protection. Safety glasses are available from tool suppli­ However, we can get into some pretty hazardous situations. ers and department stores that carry tools. Contact lenses do not count as adequate eye protec­ Cuts and Scrapes tion. A pair of safety glasses is doubly important if you Cuts and scrapes to the hands are the most common wear contact lenses. The debris never fails to get under occurrence at my bench, and I have a tendency to leave the lens and cause severe pain to the cornea. If you wear the abrasions unprotected because a Band-Aid almost al­ contact lenses, it would be prudent to keep a supply of ways gets in my way. This is not a good idea because the lens cleaner on hand in case anything gets lodged on the little green things that live on some watch cases like to outer surface of the lenses or, most likely, the inside sur­ live under skin even more and can cause dermatitis if bro­ face. ken or abraded skin is exposed to these little colonies. Now that you're all wearing some sort of eye protec­ But luckily Medtech Laboratories has come to the tion, you probably don't need to know that if you do get rescue of the sophisticated repairman by providing a something in your eyes be sure to flush them with large product, available at most local drugstores, called New­ amounts of water or, better yet, be prepared and purchase Skin. This is a liquid bandage that you "paint" onto the an eyewash kit from your local pharmacy. wound, and it quickly hardens to form a "plastic" coat­ ing that is waterproof yet doesn't get in the way of your One-Dip Tip work. I keep a bottle within reach of my bench. Balance spring cleaners can cause a severe case of It would also be wise to have some hydrogen perox­ sneezing in some people. It seems the fumes irritate the ide handy to wash out deeper wounds before applying the mucous membranes in the nose, which can trigger a sneez­ New-Skin to make sure any little green things don't have ing attack. Always keep solvent-based cleaners in a cov­ an opportunity to take up residence. ered container, and keep your distance from the container when using these types of solutions. Burns Ever pushed your arm into a steamer nozzle? Picked Physical Fitness up a freshly blued piece of steel you just removed from After years of sitting at the bench for eight to ten hours heat? a day, I have become so physically fit that I just laugh and Well I thought so. Neither have I. But, just in case laugh when someone mentions exercise. someone asks you what to do in case of a bum, you can Seriously, it is important to exercise regularly and tell them that applying ice to a minor bum seems to help maintain some modicum of fitness. Our profession doesn't the pain and many times prevents a blister. Also, let them provide any sort of aerobic exercise (unless you're really know that keeping a tube of bum ointment on hand would out of shape and just unscrewing the case-back on a Heuer be a good idea. watch causes heart palpitations). 20 HOROLOGICAL TIMES It would help to get up from your bench and walk around every couple of hours. Your ability to concentrate will be greatly improved by taking a break. I have found that walking a mile or so at lunch every two or three days also helps.

Caffeine Caffeine causes me to have more problems than it's worth. Since I stopped "doing" caffeine, my hands have become much steadier and my patience has increased im­ measurably. This has cut down on injuries as the steadi­ ness helps keep my tools from slipping, and my vocabu­ lary has improved because now I don't get so mad when I do injure myself. If you can put up with headaches and constant drowsi­ ness for about three days, then you can also get off caf­ feine. It's worth it and you will be a more excellent re­ IMbdmum Malntaiantt l IRuggecl Construction I jSim.pie Operations I pairman for it. -No ...-lllOblowdowa. •All1'p.Stalaleu •Automatlcbunicoalnll These tips are by no means comprehensive, and only or Fool pedal raodeb. reflect some of the more important precautions that I take • lllJmlUd dlltlllod waler supply •Sob4 Stato ~ •Safe for Malls (no boiler) Si- heat not at the bench. Safety is very important in all areas of the ~YearWacna1:7 ·U', 1$'XU'Rlgli bollorStsm. workplace, and watch repair shops have their share of in­ •Utey ltop9lnd wllb ...... Uy •Eadl7 P-hl• / 29 Ibo. •10 Minute beat-up .....u.JJfe ploru. juries. Preventing injuries is the professional approach and •1200Watb/ 10 Amp is much less time-consuming than treating them.

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TIME FOR ACCURACY

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FEBRUARY 1 996 21 Before actually making the bend, some thought should be given to where the first bend is to be made, the exact REPAIRING height of the overcoil and its shape. The spot where the first bend is to be made depends a great deal upon the shape of the overcoil and its length. MECHANICAL This may be governed by the physical restrictions of the balance spring and its proximity to the center wheel, the distance from the regulator pins to the balance hole jewel WATCHES & center (effective radius of the regulator) and whatever desire the operator may have to adhere to the requirements of the theoretical isochronism. Great stress is laid upon these isochronal curves by CLOCKS books on springing and adjusting, when in practice it is difficult to achieve the isochronal adjustment by shaping the last coil only. This is due to faulty escapement con­ A COMPLETE SERIES OF struction and adjustment, too wide an arc of regulator BENCH PRACTICES movement, and the physical restrictions of the movement itself. Therefore, the instructions to follow will deal only Forming the Overcoil, Part XIl- B with the operations of raising and forming the overcoil. However, attention will be drawn to one theoretical curve By Henry B. Fried, as a general model to follow. CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, *FNAWCC In some books are shown about 200 assorted shapes © 1996 (All rights reserved by the author) of overcoils, each serving as a model, and each conform­ ing to the requirements of an isochronal spring. Since so many different curves and shapes are illustrated, almost any curve made of the last coil will closely resemble one of these. If the hairspring is shaped so that it will vibrate evenly all around and its coils are concentric, it will con­ form to one of the standards and, within certain limits, serve its purpose fairly well. In Figures 92 to 96 is shown a most popular type of Breguet curve. This was designed by Lossier after the theo­ ries of Prof. M. Phillips, published in 1861. For the pur­ pose of implanting this in the reader's mind, it would be well to copy these drawings. The first manipulation is made at 270° (3/4 coil) from the stud. Because this will become smaller in diameter, the stud will eventually be close to the first bend. A study of these figures will reveal that the incline is supposed to consume only 45° of the last coil (see Figure 92). Then, as shown in Figure 70, the spring is leveled off and contin­ ues along the same spiraled path for another 22° before the curve is bent inward. Thus 67° of the last coil follows the same spiral path as the body of the spring of which 45° is the climb and 22° the "level-off." From this point on­ Great stress is laid upon these ward, the last coil takes on a new path. Instead of follow­ isochronal curves by books on ing the spiral path it becomes circular; that is, for the next half-coil it becomes a semicircle and at its terminal, springi,ng and adjusti.ng, when in amounting to about 103°, part of another circle. This is it shown in the succeeding illustrations. practice is difficult to achieve Figure 94 shows how the third section is planned. the isochronal adjustment by Here, the radius of the spring, measured from the end of the leveling-off point to the center of the spring, is di­ shaping the last coil only. vided into three equal parts (A, Figure 94). Two of these thirds are added along a diametrical line across the spring. 22 HOROLOGICAL TIMES Thus five-thirds of this radius (A) equal the diameter of the third section. Therefore, to find the center of the third part of the Lossier curve, 5/3-A is divided in half. This will give the radius C. A semicircular arc (180°) is drawn as shown in Figure 94. This, added to the first and second section of the spring now has the appearance as shown in this drawing. From this point, the remainder of the spring must be circular, concentric with the collet center. With the collet center as a pivotal point, 83° of arc is added to the overcoil. This brings the spring up to the point it enters the regula­ tor pins as shown in Figure 95. From here to the stud, 30° is added, using the collet center again as the pivotal point (Figure 96). Thus the total of all the sections of the overcoil can be summed up as follows:

45° for the riser 22° for leveling off Figure 96. From regulator pins 30° is added, using the 180° first bend inward collet center again as pivotal point. 83° next section to regulator pins 30° to the stud 360° total or one full coil

Of course, since the arcs do not all have the same cen­ ter we cannot consider the coil as having a continuous or circular curve. Nevertheless, the spring should end with the stud on a radial line which also crosses the spring where Figure 97. The height of the overcoil is the distance from the the first (upward) bend was made. lower level to hole in the stud which is attached to bridge.

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FEBRUARY 1996 23 It must be remembered that what has been described is the Lossier coil and its simpler technical details. In prac­ tice, however, it is not always possible to carry out these requirements. To do so would require perfect matching of the hairspring diameter in relation to the regulator radius, regulator arc and stud placement, and height of the Breguet. However, it is advisable to use it as a good model along which to pattern the new overcoil. Before bringing up the spring to a new level, some consideration must be given to where on the new spring the first bend upwards should be made. Another factor to be observed is the height of the new level. The first bend upward is made about 3/4 of a coil from the stud. Because this last coil will become smaller in di­ ameter than the main body of the spring, this section will become almost a full coil after it is raised and curved to a smaller diameter. The height of the overcoil should be ascertained be­ fore the vibrated spring is studded. This is done by plac­ Figures 98 and 99. The overcoiling tweezer above, with ing the balance and spring in the movement. The balance enlarged details below. bridge, with the stud fastened so that the top of the stud is flush with the bridge, is also replaced. Then the distance, spring (lower level) to the hairspring hole in the stud, is measured (Figure 97). This distance is the correct height of the "Breguet." A small pair of dividers aids greatly in gauging the height. The height of this overcoil must not exceed these requirements, otherwise the spring, when fitted, may ap­ pear umbrella-shaped and the lower level of the spring Figure 100. Adjusting the tweezer for hairspring thickness. may scrape the balance arms. Generally the height of the Breguet has a relationship to the width of the hairspring, usually between two and three times the width of the spring separates the lower from the upper coils. One method of raising the overcoil is to bend the spring in a goose-neck or hockey-stick style as shown in Figure 96. This particular method has certain advantages not enjoyed by the "twist" method. In the "hockey-stick" bend, the spring is raised in l/8th of a coil, whereas in the "twist" method the spring is required to take a half-coil to achieve its proper height. Thus it cannot be bent inward for a major portion of the riser, otherwise it may scrape the outermost coil it must cross. However, in the "hockey­ stick" bend it reaches its new level in l/8th of a coil, and l/16th of a coil beyond this it may be bent inward to as­ sume its new curve or shape. There are a number of methods of making this bend. The one favored by experienced watchmakers and profes­ sional vibrators utilizes a special type of tweezers shown in Figures 98 and 99. This tweezer consists of the cylin­ drical button-topped head (A) which fits into the thick body of the tweezer. This pin may be pulled out or pushed in to accommodate different thicknesses of hairsprings. The set Figure 101. The tweezer grasps the spring at predeter­ screw (B) fastens it in place after the adjustment has been mined spot and first bend upwards is made by squeezing made. The other tweezer blade (C) is concave in shape, tweezer blades together. fitting partially around the pin. When the pin and the con- 24 HOROLOGICAL TIMES cave blade are pressed against the edge of the hairspring, it will curve upwards. The stop screw (D) is adjusted to regulate the angle of the bend, acute or minor. To use the tweezer, the pin head is brought over the spring so that the outer coil rests between the head and the tweezer edge as shown in Figure 100. The pin is pushed in so that the spring is barely clamped between the inside of the pin head and the tweezer shoulder, leaving only a mini­ mum of side shake. The set screw is then tightened. The stop screw is adjusted so that only a bend of about 30° is possible. Before attempting to raise the overcoil on a "live" job it would be advisable to practice on some old hairsprings. Figure 102. Leveling offthe hairspring after upward bend, To make the first bend, the spring is assembled on the tweezer is reversed and applied pressure causes a level­ balance. A regular bench tweezer then holds the balance ing bend of same degree as the first. suspended by the hairspring. This separates the coils enough so that the overcoiling tweezer may reach in and clamp the spring exactly where desired. The tweezer is held so that the pin and head is on top of the spring and the concave blade is below the spring. Pressure upon the overcoiling tweezer will cause the spring to bend upwards as shown in Figure 101. To level off the hairspring, the tweezer is reversed with the concave blade on top and the cylindrical pin below. The tweezer is then shifted on the spring I/8th of a coil from the bend toward the stud. Pressure on the inverted tweezer will cause a leveling bend of exactly the same degree as the first bend, the spring thus becoming leveled. This is shown in Figure 102. Since these tweezers are rather expensive and not many watchmakers possess them, there are other methods em­ ployed which require less expensive and less elaborate equipment. The elbow or "hockey-stick" bend may be made by placing the hairspring on a block of soft wood, the spot to be bent or raised crossing the grain. A stubby, strong and pointed tweezer depresses the spring at the bend Figure 103. Tweezer with pin in one blade and hole in opposite spot which causes the sides of the spring adjoining the blade can be used to make bends, pressing spring into a block of tweezer to rise. Some watchmakers prefer to use a ta­ soft wood. Left, first bend; right, the leveling-off bend. pered steel pin, slit very shallow at its tip with a very fine saw. This fits over the spring and presses it into the soft wood. Others use a pair of tweezers with a pin driven tight inside one of the points and this pin fitting into a hole in its partner blade. This keeps the spring from slip­ ping up into the tweezer while it presses into the wood, Figure 103. The bend may be accurately made in this manner by pressing the spring with short, light thrusts, bringing up the bend by gradual degrees, thus controlling the angle of the bend. Placing the spring upside down on the block of wood and repeating this process at a point l/8th of a coil away will level the spring. Extreme caution must be observed that the second bend is not overdone. Figure 104. Employing two tweezers, one in left hand acts The overcoil may also be raised by twisting the spring. as a vise while the other twists spring upwards so that This will cause the highest spot to be diametrically oppo- opposite side of spring is at the desired height. FEBRUARY 1 996 25 site the twist. There are two methods of doing this. The first utilizes two pairs of tweezers held close to one an­ other. One pair acts as the vise while the other twists the spring upwards. The other system also calls for the use of two tweezers but while one acts as the anchor or vise, the other pair grasps the spring on the opposite side of the coil where the highest point of the rise will be. The manipulat­ ing tweezer then pulls the spring directly upwards. This will cause the spring to rise gradually. To employ the first method, the hairspring is removed from the balance and placed on a clear white background on the benchplate. The anchoring tweezer is held in the left hand and grasps the spring about 3/4th of a coil in from the stud. This tweezer must be held upright and not tilted in any direction. The manipulating tweezer is held in the right hand and grasps the spring about l/l 6th of a coil (about two millimeters) away from the first tweezer Figure 105. To level off the spring, anchoring tweezer (towards the stud). The manipulating tweezer in the right grasps it at its highest point while manipulating tweezer hand is then tilted back toward the operator. This will I/16th coil away bends it backwards toward the operator. cause the last portion of the spring to tilt upwards. The twisting should be done cautiously so that the highest spot on the twisted spring should not be above the level de­ sired of the overcoil. This is shown in Figure 104. The next step is to level the spring so that the remain­ ing portion is parallel with the lower body of the spring. This is accomplished by grasping the hairspring with the anchoring tweezer at the highest spot made by the first bending operation. The manipulating tweezer grasps the spring about l/16th of a coil beyond this and the second tweezer is tilted backwards toward the operator. This will bring up the stud end of the spring which until now was Figure 106. To aid in selecting the proper radius for the pointing downward. This also should be done gradually overcoil, the spring is laid over the balance bridge and until the last portion of the spring is parallel with the lower the coil over the regulator pins as shown above. coil. This is shown in Figure 105.

Shaping and Centering the Upper (Overcoil) Level After the upper coil is made level and parallel with the lower spring, it must be curved and centered. The last portion of the spring must be bent inward and the last coil most always will have to be curved to a smaller circle than the lower coil. The part of the last coil which comes un­ der the influence of the regulator must assume a circular arc. This is required because the regulator also moves in circular arcs and any deviation from such an arc will throw the hairspring off center when the regulator is moved. Most v regulators may be moved in an arc of about 30° each side A of center and, since the stud is often at right angles (90°) to the regulator, the spring must be circular for at least 120° back from the stud. To shape this portion of the spring to conform to the B above requirements, it is first removed from the balance and the balance bridge is placed on its back. The unat­ Figure 107. The overcoiling tweezer is used to reduce tached spring is laid on the bridge with the Breguet on the radius ofovercoils. They come in various sizes as shown top, in the reverse position it will assume if it were con­ above by A and B. nected to the bridge. The collet center should be directly 26 HOROLOGICAL TIMES over the balance jewel center. In this position, the regula­ ger of contacting the center wheel. Curves like these may tor pins, like two close fingers, will be pointing up to one be designed for specific reasons best suited to the balance of the coils. Notice at which coil the pins project. Let us unit for isochronal performance, although when a case is say for example that it is the third flat coil from the out­ met with such as shown in Figure 109, no other choice side as shown in Figure 106. Therefore the last 120° of may be left. overcoil must be curved in so that it follows the third Final checking points to be observed are, one, to make (lower) coil. Because the lower coil is not circular but part certain that the levels are flat and parallel; two, that the of a spiral, this may only serve as a good but preliminary lower coil does not scrape the stud or the balance arms; model or guide. three, that the overcoil does not touch the center wheel or scrape the balance bridge; four, that the riser does not Starting the First Curve Inward scrape the outside coil as it curves inward; and five, that In a "hockey-stick" bend, the first curve inward is the coils "breathe" evenly all around. made at a point just after the spring is leveled or 67° from the first rising bend. In the twist bend, this is not advis­ able because the spring rises much more gradually and takes a full half-coil before it reaches its maximum height. In the twist bend care must be exercised that the first curve inward does not scrape the first (outer) coil it crosses. Therefore the initial curve should be made about halfway between the first twist and the leveling twist. Curving the last coil may be done by employing spe­ cial curving tweezers shown in Figure 107. These come in sets capable of curving the spring in many radii. This twee­ zer consists of two blades, one convex and the other con­ cave. When it is desired to curve the spring to a smaller diameter, the portion of the spring to be shaped is placed between these blades and pressed. The tweezer then is shifted to an adjacent position and the process is repeated until the new arc is obtained. The spring may be recurved without the use of the overcoiling tweezer by a series of gradual bends which must not kink the spring. The spring may also be recurved by skillfully using an ordinary bench tweezer, one twee­ Figure 108. A type of Breguet overcoil where the last coil zer grasping the spring at one point and the other, let us is brought straight across spring to avoid a too-close cen­ say, halfway across. Bringing both tweezers towards one ter wheel. another will buckle or bend the spring. Doing this along the spring at skillfully selected spots will, in effect, re­ duce the radius of the spring. When the overcoil is curved, it is not yet attached to the balance, but placed correct side down, stud in the bridge. The bridge with the attached hairspring is then replaced in the movement. The regulator is moved along its full compass. If this throws the spring off center, the part of the spring within the regulator's influence must be bent or curved until the spring is not disturbed when the regulator is moved. The spring is then removed from the bridge, attached to the balance and then reattached to the bridge. When the connected unit is in the watch and going, the spring may be touched up so that it is level and "breathes" evenly. In some watches the center wheel is so close that it may interfere with the overcoil. In this case, the overcoil may be shaped as shown in Figure 108 so that there is no contact with the wheel. Sometimes an overcoil like the Figure 109. This shows how close center wheel makes one shown in the illustration will be seen that has no dan- necessary a bend in the spring as shown at right. FEBRUARY 1996 27 Figure 1. Figure 2. TECHNICALLY WATCHES

ANTIQUE WATCH RESTORATION, PART CXXll SELECTING AND FITIING FLAT HAIRSPRINGS

By Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC, FBHI © 1996 (All rights reserved by the author)

One of the most important parts of hairspring work is attached to the balance wheel and the balance wheel is the selection of a correct hairspring for a particular watch. suspended by the hairspring, the hairspring should extend First of all, the hairspring selected must be made of the a distance of between 1/4" and 1/2" if there is a possibility proper material for the particular balance wheel. that the hairspring can be used for the balance wheel. This If the balance wheel is a bimetallic split wheel, a steel distance varies with the number of vibrations that a bal­ hairspring must be fitted to the balance wheel; otherwise, ance wheel should make for the watch to keep correct time. the temperature compensation of the watch will be altered. A fast-beat watch needs a stronger hairspring to cause The bimetallic balance wheel compensates for the changes the balance wheel to beat faster. In this case, the hair­ in the length and elasticity of the steel hairspring. If an spring will not extend as far as one for a slow-beat watch. alloy hairspring is fitted to a bimetallic split balance wheel, A good example of this is a 1OOth-second stop watch. This the balance wheel will overcompensate when the watch is watch has an extremely fast-beat balance wheel. The hair­ subjected to heat and cold. On the other hand, if a steel spring for this balance wheel extends less than a quarter hairspring is fitted to a solid monometallic balance wheel, of an inch when the balance wheel is suspended by the the temperature compensation will also be altered. The hairspring. An 18,000-beat watch has a hairspring which balance wheel will not compensate for the changes in the extends about 3/8" on the average. steel hairspring when the watch is subjected to heat and Another rule-of-thumb method that can be used when cold conditions. Therefore, a steel hairspring is fitted to a selecting a flat hairspring is shown in Figure 2. This bimetallic balance wheel and an alloy hairspring is fitted method relates to the diameter of the hairspring. A hair­ to a monometallic balance wheel. spring which is timed to the balance wheel should have a When selecting a hairspring for a given balance wheel, diameter that is equal to the radius of the balance wheel, some rule-of-thumb methods can be used. One rule-of­ including the screw heads as shown in Figure 2. Note that thumb method is shown in Figure 1. When a hairspring is the spring can be slightly larger than this if it is to have an 28 HOROLOGICAL TIMES overcoil. Also, the hairspring can be slightly smaller if it needs to be, in order to fit the regulator pins when it is used as a flat hairspring. Still another rule-of-thumb method that is used when selecting a hairspring is shown in Figure 3. This method uses the rule that a hairspring which is timed to the bal­ ance wheel should have between twelve and sixteen coils. This illustration shows two different hairsprings that are the same diameter but one has sixteen coils and the other hairspring has only twelve coils. This indicates that for a 16 COILS 12COILS given diameter, the number of coils varies with the close­ ness of the coils. There seems to be an average of four­ Figure 3. teen coils for the hairspring. Note: One exception to this rule is in older watches, such as verge watches, the hair­ spring usually has only four to six coils. The coils are spaced farther apart so the diameter of the hairspring is equal to the radius of the balance wheel. The verge bal­ ance wheel with hairspring is shown in Figure 4. This number of coils is sufficient because the balance wheel takes less than a turn of motion. This hairspring is short and would be quite restrictive on the motion of a modern balance wheel which is expected to take an arc of motion of one and one-half turns.

Fitting a New Flat Hairspring New hairsprings can be obtained with or without the collet. If the original collet is to be used, it would be better to use an uncolleted hairspring. The new hairspring should be colleted so it develops in the proper direction when the top of the collet is in an upward position. If an already colleted hairspring is used, it must develop in the proper direction. Figure 5 shows how to determine which direc­ tion the hairspring needs to develop to fit the watch. View Figure 4. A, Figure 5 shows the balance cock for a left hairspring. A left hairspring spirals outward from the collet in a counter­ clockwise direction when the top of the collet is upward. View B, Figure 5 shows the balance cock for a right hairspring. A right hairspring spirals outward from the LEFT RIGHT collet in a clockwise direction when the top of the collet is upward. A new hairspring usually has two or more extra coils to allow for fitting the hairspring to a variety of balance wheels. After the timing point is located, the extra coils are removed. The timing point is at the regulator pins. If the timepiece is free-sprung (there is no regulator), then the timing point will be at the stud. The timing point is found by vibrating the hairspring or timing the vibrations of the balance wheel and hairspring. Note: Instructions on vibrating hairsprings will be discussed next month. Figure 6 shows a new hairspring being fitted to a watch. The new hairspring is shown centered on the bal­ ance cock. The broken lines show the unneeded coils of the hairspring. These will be broken away after the timing point is located. The timing point, in this case, is on the third coil of the hairspring at the regulator pins. See Point Figure 5. FEBRUARY 1996 29 "a." Point "b" shows where the extra coils should be bro­ placed farther from the center than are the regulator pins. ken away. This point is 45° beyond the hairspring stud. This is done to allow extra space between the stud and the This extra length allows for some adjustment in the length second coil of the hairspring to prevent the coil from hit­ of the hairspring if the watch should be too fast. ting the stud when the watch is operating. After the timing point is located and the excess coils are removed, the regulator sweep of the hairspring is Hairspring That Is Too Large formed. This is shown in Figure 7. View "a" shows the It will be found occasionally that the hairspring is too point where the outside coil is bent outward when form­ large in diameter for the regulator pins' distance. In other ing the regulator sweep. View "b," Figure 7 shows where words, the timing point on the hairspring is too far out on bends are made near the stud to keep the hairspring cen­ the hairspring. This condition indicates that the hairspring tered with the balance hole jewel and to circle the regula­ is too strong for the weight of the balance wheel and the tor sweep. This bending is necessary because the stud is timing point had to be moved out farther to make the hair-

1-- i I I I I I \

45°\ \ / \ // \ /

Figure 6. Figure 8.

-a

Figure 7. Figure 9. 30 HOROLOGICAL TIMES spring weak enough for the balance wheel. Figure 8 shows a hairspring that is one coil too large for the regulator pins' distance. This causes the hairspring to be too crowded. With this condition, there is the dan­ ger of the second coil of the hairspring touching the inside regulator pin when the hairspring is vibrating. This would cause the watch to run fast. The cure for this condition is to fit a slightly weaker hairspring which will place the timing point one coil inward allowing more space between the second coil and the regulator pins.

Hairspring That Is Too Small Figure 9 shows a hairspring that is too small for the WATERPROOF CASE PRESS regulator pins' distance. This indicates that the hairspring is too weak for the watch. When the body of the hair­ Comes with 4 different pins to open most any spring is centered with the balance hole jewel, this creates case. Packed in an attractive hardwood case. too much space between the inside regulator pin and the second coil of the hairspring. In this case, there is not the #59.055 danger of the second coil touching the regulator pin as when the hairspring is too large. When the hairspring is too small in diameter or too short, there may be more dif­ $12.95 ficulty in timing and adjusting the watch. When fitting a List Price $14.95 flat hairspring, we are limited by the regulator pins' dis­ tance. When fitting an overcoiled hairspring, we are not limited. With an overcoiled hairspring, one coil smaller WATCH CASE PRESS or larger does not make much difference. In other words, A low priced, quality case press! This press we are not so limited with an overcoiled hairspring as with a flat hairspring. puts the "squeeze" on other economy "Antique Watch Restoration" will continue next presses with superior quality and more. month.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

British Horological Institute. Technical Horology, Lessons ~ Features Include: 2/6. London: N.A.G. Press, 1954, p. 5. • Solid metal construction. Fried, Henry B. Bench Practices for Watch Repairers. Den­ •Polished plunger & handle. ver, Colorado: Roberts Publishing Co., 1954, pp. 4-11. • Painted finish. • Smooth lever action. Jendritzki, H. "Watch Adjustments," Swiss Watch and Jew­ • Durable nylon dies - 6 flat & 6 tapered. elry Journal. Lausanne, Switzerland, 1963, pp. 37-38. • Knurled handle for sure grip.

Sweazey, Thomas B. "Fitting Hairsprings in Watches," Master Watchmaking, Lesson 20, Section 390. Chicago #592.055 $39.50 School of Watchmaking, 1908. Wholesale Jeweler & Watchmaker Supplies Tampa, Florida 33602-1200

FEBRUARY 1 996 31 Restoring, and coaxing an ancient wrapped in iron wire, dipped into water How To timepiece back to life is part of the fun and then into powdered boric acid (to and challenge of watchmaking. Figure reduce oxidation), heated to a carrot-or­ 1 pictures a typical key-wound-and-set, ange color, and dropped into water to chain-driven, fusee watch movement harden. MAKEA with verge escapement. The pinion is being removed from Figure 2 illustrates the train layout the damaged escape wheel in Figure 11. typical of many of these early watches. Figures 12 and 13 picture the escape VERGE Figure 3 is a view of the escape wheel wheel blank as it is staked onto the pin­ and pinion on the underside of the up­ ion and is now ready to have the teeth per plate. Each tooth of the escape wheel cut into it. WATCH gives an impulse to the upper and lower Figures 14 and 15 show how the pallets of the balance wheel verge, first slide rest and milling attachment is set in one direction and then the other. Re­ up to cut the teeth. The first cut is being moving the balance bridge without first taken in Figure 16, and the last cut is ESCAPE carefully blocking the train often results about to be made in Figure 17 by feed­ in damage to the escape wheel teeth and/ ing the cutter into the work at an angle or verge as the train spins down because of about 31° with the slide rest handle WHEEL there is no pallet fork to hold back the nearest the lathe tail stock. The last cut power that is found in more modem has just been completed in Figure 18. watches. The result is that we must Figure 19 pictures an escapement By Robert D. Porter, CMW sometimes make a new escape wheel file being used to carefully remove burrs and/or verge staff. as the work is rotated backwards. Use In Figure 4, a cement brass is being 600-grit abrasive paper, wrapped around used for stock, turned to the same di­ a piece of pegwood, to remove burrs on ameter as the old escape wheel we are the inside of the part. Another escape­ going to duplicate. An "O" size center ment file with a curved cutting surface drill has also started a hole in the stock. and a flat back is thinning the curved Figure 5 shows a pivot drill being used part of the teeth in Figure 20 to achieve to produce a through-hole in the part that the finished escape wheel shown in Fig­ is approximately 0.0005" (0.01 mm) ure 21. The new escape wheel will be smaller than the pinion diameter. This ready to install in the watch after ultra­ will allow a press fit to the pinion. sonic cleaning. It is exciting to see the A conical burr is used in Figures 6 balance wheel in one of these old-tim­ and 7 to open up the wheel to the size ers dance once again to a slow "disco" needed. The slide rest is set so there is a beat after resting for centuries in a dark slight taper to the bore resulting in a thin­ and dusty drawer. ner wall at the entering end of the part The ingenuity and craftsmanship to on which eleven teeth are to be cut. A be found in these mostly handmade tiny cutoff tool bit is parting the wheel blank time machines is truly amazing! This is It is exciting to see from the stock in Figure 8. especially so when we consider the the balance wheel Figure 9 shows the old wheel with primitive conditions under which they its damaged teeth. An attempt to solder were produced. These artifacts should in one of these a new tooth in place was not success­ all be considered to be horological trea­ ful. Figure 10 pictures the old wheel sures and museum pieces. The minia­ old-timers dance being used to set the slide rest and mill­ turization and application of the verge once again to a slow ing cutter to the correct compound escapement to portable timekeepers dur­ angle. The cutter was carved from a ing the seventeenth and eighteenth cen­ "disco" beat after short piece of 114" diameter water hard­ turies represent important first steps in ening drill rod with a hand-held carbide man's ability to more precisely measure resting for centuries graver until the profile matched that of the passage of time. in adarkand the escape wheel teeth. Eight teeth were then cut into the cutter with a high-speed Illustrations on pages 33-34. dusty drawer. steel-slitting saw. The cutter was then

32 HOROLOGICAL TIMES Figure 1. Figure 5. Figure JO.

Figure 6.

Figure 2.

Figure 11.

Figure 7.

Figure 3.

Figure 12.

Figure 8.

Figure 4. Figure 9. Figure 13.

FEBRUARY 1996 33 WE'RE INTERESTED IN YOUR Figure 14. Figure 18. COLOR SLIDES

The American Watchmakers­ Clockmakers Institute knows that there is a wealth of talent in its membership and that this talent is not only in the field of horol­ ogy. There is seldom a gathering of a group of watchmakers and clockmakers where a camera is not also there. Figure 15. Figure 19. Those of you who pride yourself in the beauty of your camera work can possibly participate in having your own picture reproduced on the cover of Horological Times. The covers of Horological Times are reproduced from color trans­ parencies or slides. Remember, the format is scenery or nature, and what you submit must be a color slide. Color photos are not acceptable.

If your color slide is used, you will receive an 8 1/2 x 11 inch color Figure 16. Figure 20. photo. It will be framed and sent to you for your enjoyment. Mail your color slide with description to:

Horological Times 701 Enterprise Drive Harrison, Ohio 45030

All slides become the property of the American Watchmakers­ Clockmakers Institute.

Figure 17. Figure 21 .

34 HOROLOGICAL TIMES BOOK REVIEW

By Henr) B. Fried, Ci\IW, Ci\IC, FAWI, FBHI, *FNAWCC

The Camerer Cuss Book of the chronological advance­ the long predominant verge, watches are included as are Antique Watches, 10 x 71/2", ment of watch technology and precision attempts in the early Waterbury long­ 332 pp., 130 illustrations, 8 are photos with detailed de­ timekeeping. A watch by wind dollar watch attempt. color plates, color dust cover. scriptions of the watches of Emerey distinguished from One wishes that a beautifully Published by Antique Col­ those periods of develop­ the earlier invention of damascened, highly jeweler­ lectors Club, Wappinger ment. The earliest is a George Graham is shown in precisioned American Falls, NY, $69. Nuremberg Stackfreed dated detail. The development of pocket watch could have This is a revised, ex­ 1548. Later, drum and globe this later predominant es­ been included to show how panded, and enlarged ver­ timepieces made their ap­ capement is also included in elegant these mass-produced sion of the first edition, pearance, some with alarm photographic detail. could be compared to the which was published in and calendric services. Another era is the devel­ highly-touted contemporary 1967. However, the earliest By the early seventeenth opment of "keyless" wind­ Swiss and English products. edition was yet a revision of century, fusees with gut were ing and shows their under­ Germany's Lange watches, the Story of Watches (1952) introduced in Dutch, French, the-dial illustrations. Others which now are desirable col­ with a modest 176 pages and and English watches. In this illustrate peculiar dial and lectors' items, are omitted. 94 photographs. This current section the pictorial progres­ hand arrangements as well as This pictorial chronol­ printing is far superior with sion shows pectoral cruci­ those with self-winding ogy continues with Swiss high-quality paper, illustra­ form watches, as well as pocket watches of the early self-winding watches, first tions, and contents. In my those encased in crystal. nineteenth century. Pendant made by England's John opinion, it is one of the best Others are some oversimpli­ watches, repeaters, and Harwood in the early 1920s. books on the history of fied Puritan watches, some enameling seconds-beating The formal section of watches. With the period with elliptical enameled or balances. this book ends with a 15- beginning in 1500, it men­ shagreen cases. Watches Shock and temperature page exposition on the his­ tions the growing evidence with six finely filigreed dial affixes, musical, astronomi­ tory and products of Usher that watches appeared in the divisions, champleve dials, cal watches, and form and Cole, the English fmn 1480s, so that now, the myth repousee cases, and with the watches are typical of that that began business in 1861. of Peter Henlein inventing advent of the late seven­ later period. The many varia­ This section could be consid­ the mainspring has faded teenth century hairspring, tions in watch escapements ered an appendix, having very much. were watches with hour and begin to appear, including little bearing on the direct de­ Unlike Cuss's earlier minute hands added. Novel tourbillon and other attempts velopment of the watch. The editions, all the illustrations dial-reading systems had to correct inherent errors. book's final 26 pages are appear separate from the text begun to appear; such as the A Russian nutwood devoted to a "Glossary of because the author (son of sun and moon, and wander­ movement is pictured, as are Terms" encountered by an­ T.P. Camerer Cuss, the origi­ ing hour types. Penduletted various Chinese and Japa­ tiquarian horologists. This nal author) felt that these balances are grouped in this nese pocket watches. Case section is also well illustrated could not be precisely situ­ era of development. Eight design, engraving, ornamen­ to show typical examples. ated next to the text reference excellent color plates display tation, and Chatelaine This book is one of the best anyway. Placing these in a those examples, each con­ watches are chronologically in explanation of textual in­ separate section called "Il­ taining a descriptive history. pictured. formation, and illustrative lustrated Chronology of Eighteenth century American watches are material which shows the Watches" permits larger and timepieces with typical ex­ not neglected at all. Early cavalcade of horological de­ clearer photographs, thus amples of technological im­ 1855 Dennison, Howard and velopment of the watch. It is presenting a pictorial history provements include some Davis, Appleton & Tracy highly recommended. of the watch's development. repeating watches, escape­ Co., E. Howard, Tremont, In the section devoted to ment variations other than Fasoldt, and Potter's rarer

FEBRUARY 1996 35 The techniques of sawing and fil­ triangular shape, even doing one surface ing that were covered in the previous at a time. Place the stock in a bench vise A two sections of this unit, with the addi­ so that about one-half of its length can tion of another procedure, that of "fin­ be filed into a triangular section; next, ishing," will be put into practice this turn the stock around in the vise and file PRACTICAL time. The step-by-step procedure for the other half to match. Be sure that the making grinding slips in several useful jaws of the vise are protected. After the shapes will be described. These tools triangular slip assumes its final shape, COURSE will be used later for grinding pivots and the surfaces are ready for finishing. other cylindrical sections. The shape of this slip is superior to the square shape for cylindrical pivot IN CLOCK Grinding work, since the angle of the edge is acute Grinding, in clock work, refers to and will grind a clean, square shoulder. the removal of material from a surface. This includes removing metal from raw C. Flat Grinding Slip (Figure JC) REPAIR stock to arrive at a final shape after To make a flat grinding slip , select "roughing out," and polishing the sur­ a piece of iron rod about 114 inch in di­ face of a tiny precision part to achieve ameter or a piece of flat strip iron 1/4 x MAKING A the desired finish. In reality, the differ­ 1/8 inch in section and use a hacksaw to ence between the two procedures is at­ cut off a segment 4 inches in length. The GRINDING SLIP tained through the coarseness of the design makes it impossible to hold the UNIT 1 tools and abrasives used. One of the tools stock in a bench vise so that the full used for removing material from cylin­ length of the rod can be filed at one time; drical sections is a grinding slip, hence, the final shape, as illustrated in By John P. Kenyon, CMC "charged" with an abrasive. the drawing, is completed one half at a time, as with the triangular slip. The Selecting the Stock comers are filed to an acute angle to The material selected to make a achieve the same results as with the tri­ grinding slip must be softer than the angular slip. The slip surfaces are now work material. Iron, soft steel, bell metal, ready for the final finish. copper, and boxwood are commonly used by clockmakers. Lead, tin, and D. Flat Slip with Round Comers (Fig­ ivory have also been used. ure JD) A flat slip with round comers is used Sawing and Filing to Shape to grind coned pivots. It is made in the A. Square Grinding Slip (Figure IA) same manner as a flat grinding slip (C), To make a square grinding slip, se­ except for the acute comers which are lect a piece of iron rod about 1/4 inch in rounded off with a carborundum stone. diameter and then use a hacksaw to cut One comer can be rounded with a small off a section 4 inches in length. Place radius for small pivots, while the other the stock in a bench vise so that the corner is rounded with a relatively large whole length can be filed into a square radius for large pivots. The slip is now section. File the rod until a very thin, ready for the final finish of the surfaces. rounded line appears on each of the cor­ ners (see prior section on "filing"). Next, Finishing the Surface a polishing stone will be used to further Place the slip on the coarse cutting flatten the sides. surface of a flat carborundum stone and draw it lengthwise. Apply a thin coat­ B. Triangular Grinding Slip (Figure 1 B) ing of very light oil to the stone and grind To make a triangular grinding slip, all four faces of the slip until they are select a piece of iron rod about 114 inch uniformly flat and the edges are sharp; in diameter and use a hacksaw to cut off then, use a stone of finer cutting surface a section 4 inches in length. It is not to obtain a smoother finish. Now, fine possible to hold the stock in a bench vise lines running crosswise to the faces are so that the full length can be filed into a added by moving the slip side to side on 36 HOROLOGICAL TIMES a piece of fine emery paper that has been Grinding slips can be fitted with a Continued from page 4. glued to a flat board. These right angle handle by cutting the piece of raw ma­ scores on the surface are to hold the abra­ terial long enough to file a tang on the are James Gibbs' Buckeye Horology; sive compound. To test the slip for sat­ end. This makes them easier to work Chandlee's Six Quaker Clockmakers, isfactory finish of the working surface, with. Historical Society of Pennsylvania, slide the nail of your little finger along Grinding slips require frequent re­ 1943; Eckhardt's Pennsylvania Clock the face, and there should be a notice­ finishing to sustain the surface scores and Clockmakers, New York, NY, able chafing of the nail in the lines. and corners. 1955; Stacy Woods and Stephen Kramer's Clockmakers of Lancaster Abrasives County and Their Clocks, 1750-1850, The grinding and polishing proce­ Van Nostrand, New York, NY 10977; dures are the same in respect to action Arthur E. James' Chester County of abrasives on the metal. The differ­ Clocks and Their Makers, West ence, one of degree, is attained by the Chester, Pennsylvania, Chester type of abrasive used. Each minute par­ County Historical Society, 1947. Yet ticle of an abrasive becomes a cutting no reference to a book, Tall Case edge. The finer the surface finish de­ Clocks. One in my large horological sired, the finer the compound that must library is Long Case Clocks but there be used. For grinding, oilstone powder is no reference to a Dominick. The mixed with clock oil to form a paste is above mentioned books are in the li­ used. To polish, diamantine or rouge is brary of the National Association of used with watch oil to form the paste. - - Watch and Clock Collectors at 514 All grinding and polishing materials •A B c D Poplar St., Columbia, PA 17512. Per­ must be stored so that dust and debris haps the book, Tall Case Clocks, may do not contaminate them. The slightest be in their library. amount of adulteration on a slip will Henry B. Fried impair the surface of the work. Figure 1. Grinding Slips

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FEBRUARY 1 996 37 Polishing Polishing is a successive series of smoothing ac­ THE tions to produce a finer and finer surface finish. Of course, this successive smoothing action is provided by a series of finer and finer cutting compounds. Whether NOVICE they be a series of finer and finer grits of sandpaper to smooth a wooden board, or a series of finer and finer grits of polishing silicates and oxides to polish a bal­ WATCHMAKER ance pivot or a gemstone, polishing is a method of scratching the surface. It gives a series of finer and finer scratches until the scratches become so numerous and CLEANING & POLISHING so fine that the surface appears smooth. The final pol­ ishing action is more of a burnishing action than that of WATCH CASES, PART II polishing. Watch case polishing is the same process, starting By David A. Christianson, with a course grit to remove scratches, followed by finer CMW,FBHI and finer grits of polishing compounds to bring the sur­ face to the desired mirror finish. This is the theory, so to speak. When finishing the solid metal cases, whether they be solid gold, silver, platinum, nickel, or stainless steel, one can bring the surface to a mirror finish. Remember two points: 1. Polishing is a process of removing metal from the watch case surface. 2. We are involved in working with used watch cases.

I mention these two points because most of the cases we will encounter in a general repair practice are not solid metal cases. Also, even if the case is a solid pre­ cious metal case, each time the case is polished follow­ ing a repair the case gets thinner. The sharp edges get more rounded and the design diminishes in detail. We, as repairmen, have a responsibility not only to return the movements to a running condition, but to pre­ serve the outer case detail as much as possible. Unless a client specifically wants to have his case restored to its original look, we repairmen strive to pro­ vide a clean, bright polished case in which to place the newly refurbished movement. Case restoration is a spe­ cial skill in itself, offered as a separate and distinct ser­ vice and not related to watch movement repair. We as watch repairmen simply want the outside to reflect the workmanship on the inside with as little additional ef­ fort as possible. Solid gold cases as well as solid silver, platinum, and nickel-silver cases can be polished using an abra­ sive called tripoli that is applied to a hard felt buffing wheel which is attached to a rotating spindle (see Fig­ ure 1 ). The faster the wheel rotates, the harder you press the case against the wheel, and the slower you move the case in relation to the wheel, the more material is removed from the surface of the case. Metal polishing is an art in itself. It takes training and skill practiced over an extended period of time to perfect this art. The method we use here will not make 38 HOROLOGICAL TIMES Figure I. Brown tripoli being applied Figure 5. Hold the case firmly with Figure 7C.J to a rotating hard felt buffing wheel. both hands, in a longitudinal direc­ tion.

Figure 2. The buffing wheel rotates in Figure 6. Rotate the case in the oppo­ Figure 7C.2 a downward direction. site direction of the rotating buff

Figure 3. Presenting the watch case Figure 7A. Polish the lugs in a trans­ Figure 7C.3 to the buff perpendicular to the hori­ verse direction. zontal plane of the spindle axis (i.e., the center of wheel face).

Figure 7C.4

Figure 7C.l-7C.4. Follow the con­ Figure 4. Presenting the case below Figure 7B. Polish the case surfaces tours of each surface with continuous the center of the wheel surface will in a longitudinal direction, making paths ofmotion to give a uniform sur­ increase your risk of losing the watch each flat surface or curved surface a face finish and to minimize the round­ case. separate operation. ing of surface edges. FEBRUARY 1996 39 Figure 8. A stitched muslin buff being Figure 12. Buffs marked so that only Figure 14. A new gold-plated case charged with red rouge. An unstitched the specified polishing compound is polished with only red rouge. Note the buff is a buff whose layers of muslin applied to them. exposed base metal layer. are not stitched together.

Figure 9. A new cake of brown tripoli Figure 13. Underlying base metal on Figure 15. Dialux™ polishing com­ on the left with a much used one old gold-filled watch cases where the pound will not remove the surface above. A new stick of red rouge with a heavy layer of karat gold has been layer, so it is excellent for polishing much used one above. worn away either through wear or ex­ gold-plated cases. ZAM™ is for pol­ cessive polishing. ishing silver and stainless steel watch cases.

Tripoli Tripoli Rouge Fabuluster™ ZamTM (hard buff) (soft buff) Dialux™

Figure I 0. A watch case polished with Solid gold x x x too much compound on the wheel. Note the caked-on compound on the Solid silver x x x case's edge and at the lug. The sur­ face is also smeared with accumulated Gold-plated x x compound. Micron-plated x x

Base metal x

Stainless steel x

Figure 16. Chart of the various polishing compounds used on the various metal watch cases that we encounter. Note that a hard buff should be used with both tripoli and rouge (f the ca. e is badly scratched and scuffed; a soft buff with tri­ poli followed by a soft rouge if lightly scuffed (on solid gold and silver); only a Figure 11. Removing excess polishing soft b£if/ on gold-plated and only ligluly applied (the tripoli for bad( scuffed and compound with an old file. the rouge.for lightly scuffed). 40 HOROLOGICAL TIMES you an expert polisher, but it will help you give a used watch case a very acceptable appearance. To begin with, let's look at the rotating hard felt buff wheel. The wheel rotates in a clockwise direction when viewed from the left end of the motor. When viewed from the edge of the wheel, the edge surface of the wheel travels from top to bottom (or in a downward direction). (See Figure 2.) When you present your watch case to the buff surface, do so at a point perpendicular to the spindle axis (see Figure 3). If you present your case to the buff at any other angle, the buff wheel will try to grab the case from your hand (see Figure 4). Hold the case firmly with both hands. It is best to WATCH polish in a longitudinal direction, rather than trans­ versely (see Figure 5). By going lengthwise, you'll get longer strokes with more of the case in contact with the buff with each stroke. Remember to keep the case ro­ BATTERIES tating in the opposite direction as the buffing wheel, AS making full-length strokes with each rotation of the LOW watch case (see Figure 6). AS ¢ If you stop moving the case, a flat spot will appear EACH on the case as the buff keeps cutting away at the sta­ #364 tionary case. Do not polish square or sharp edges, because you'll Minimum tend to round these angular edges. Instead, polish the purchase of 5or flat or rounded edges to the point where their surfaces more cells! meet to form the sharp edge without overlapping and thus avoiding rounding out the sharp edge (see Figure 7 ). Before we proceed, a couple of precautions come to mind:

317 ...... 39¢ 371 ...... 32¢ 377 ...... 25¢ 1. Remove straps, bracelets, chains or anything else 379 ...... 26¢ 395 ...... 31¢ 399 ...... 31¢ that dangle from the case. An experienced polisher can usually deal with these "loose ends" dangling from the case, but the novice defi­ EPO "N" 8 7¢ A23BP-2 $ 162 nitely cannot. The "loose ends," such as straps or brace­ CELL 2-Pack lets, can easily be grabbed by the rotating buff wheel causing major damage to fingers, hands, faces, eyes, *FREE!* bracelets, straps, and cases as the wheel grabs that at­ ENERGIZER BUNNY T-SHIRT tachment and tries to wrap it around the spindle or throw (Specify size: Large or Extra Large) it across the room. Take the time to remove anything that dangles from the watch case. It is not worth the Or ... A BUNNY UMBRELLA Black & white with Energizer aunny imprint! Free gift with purchase time and expense of having to repair or replace dam­ of 150 cells or more. One gift per order. While quantities last. aged attachments, not to mention the very definite pos­ sibility of damage to fingers, hands, faces, and/or eyes. SEE US . .. at the GREATER GREAT LAKES 2. Wear goggles or safety glasses when operating a JEWELRY EXPOSITION! polishing machine. Even the veteran polisher loses a watch case to the buff on occasion as the wheel finds an edge to grab and tries to fling the case across the room. No matter how careful you are, a protruding edge, a lug, or the empty inner ring of the watch case can act as a convenient point for the wheel to attach itself to the case and vio­ lently pull it from your grip. FEBRUARY l 996 4 1 3. Do not hold the case with one ofyour fingers hooked through the center of the case ring. We, as repairmen, have a No matter what you are polishing, keep in mind that the wheel may grab it. Make sure you' re holding the responsibility not only to object in a manner that the item can be pulled from your return the movements to a fingers without damage to your fingers. running condition, but to 4. If you wear a tie, tuck it inside your shirt or behind an apron. Long sleeves should be rolled up to the preserve the outer case elbow, loose shirt tails should be tucked in. Better detail as much as possible. yet, wear a snugly fitting apron or a buttoned-up shop coat.

Polishing Compounds We've mentioned tripoli as an abrasive that will re­ wheel and then add rouge to the same wheel (see Fig­ move scratches and pits in precious metal. Tripoli is a ure 12). cutting compound, and if the watch case is held sta­ Also, clean the case between compounds. When tionary against a rotating buff that has been charged through polishing with tripoli, wash the case with soap with tripoli, the wheel will cut right into the metal case. and water and towel dry before final polishing with the So keep the case moving when it is in contact with the red rouge. Otherwise the rouge buff will become con­ buffing wheel and make sure that each moving stroke taminated with the tripoli that is already on the watch of the case against the wheel is as long as possible. case and give a less than satisfactory final finish. Red rouge is a much finer abrasive compound that Speaking of polishing compounds, there are other is used to give a final polish to a metal case. It will not polishing grits available for different applications and cut into the case very quickly, but will give a high lus­ for achieving the finest finish possible. For the more ter. Use red rouge on a muslin wheel, either stitched or serious polisher, one can go from tripoli to yellow rouge loose, the loose layers of muslin giving an even higher to red rouge to white rouge to get an even better finish. luster (see Figure 8). However, for our purposes at refurbishing used and worn watch cases, tripoli followed by red rouge is quite Charging the Buff sufficient. You'll notice that we've used the terms polishing Another polishing product, called ZAM™, is used wheel, polishing buff, buffing wheel, and buff all inter­ quite often in our trade. ZAM™ is useful for final pol­ changeably. They all refer to the same wheel that at­ ishing silver, nickel silver, and stainless steel cases. taches to the spindle of a polishing machine or polish­ There are also other products. If interested, you can ing motor (these two terms are also the same). experiment to find products and combinations that work Charging the buff refers to applying an abrasive well for you. With respect to polishing metal objects, compound to the buffing wheel. The tripoli and red check articles by Marshall Richmond in his Horologi­ rouge that we use come in stick or cake form (see Fig­ cal Times series entitled "Pickle Barrel." ure 9 ). Present the cake or stick to the rotating wheel until a layer of compound adheres to the wheel. Don't Thoughts on Polishing the Various Metal Watch Cases overcharge the wheel! It is better to have too little abra­ Because the act of polishing is an abrasive process sive on the wheel than to have too much. With too much, that removes case surface material, we have to be very the abrasive smears onto your watch case or clogs re­ careful about which cases we polish and which we don't. cesses and piles up on the edges of your case (see Fig­ Obviously, solid gold, solid silver, platinum (including ure 10 ). the 10% iridium platinum), and nickel silver watch cases If you' re not getting the polishing action you ex­ can be polished because there is no underlying layer of pect, you can always add more compound. If you find a different material that could be exposed. In other you have too much abrasive compound on your wheel words, the entire case metal is homogenous. and on your case, it is better to take an old file and The older gold-filled, silver-filled, and nickel-plated present the file's edge perpendicular to the rotating buff cases can be lightly polished with tripoli on a soft buff, to remove the excess abrasive from the face of the wheel followed by lightly polishing with red rouge on a soft (see Figure 11). buff. The plating was much heavier than that used to­ Remember that the two abrasives that we're using day (see Figure 13). With these case materials you don't are of two different cutting grits. So use only one com­ want to try to remove scratches and nicks, only lightly pound on a buff wheel. Don' t apply tripoli onto the polish to remove scuff marks and tarnish. Note that 42 HOROLOGICAL TIMES we mentioned a soft buff with tripoli. A hard buff wheel will cut too quickly and will remove the overlying plat­ ing material, exposing the underlying base metal. Stainless steel cases can be buffed with ZAM™ or NAWCC §cJhtool of lH01rology another stainless steel polishing compound to remove scratches and to impart a bright surface shine. Offed.1ntg classes in ltiradi.donal Today's gold-plated cases have too little gold plat­ watch & doclk maknng ing on their surfaces to survive the polishing process. The inexpensive watch cases won't even survive a light polishing with only red rouge, let alone a more vigor­ ous application. If the case already reveals areas of underlying base James 0. Michaels, Director metal, just clean the case with either the ultrasonic Watch & Clock Repair Instructor method or the boiling pan. (See Figure 14.) Don't pol­ ish the case with tripoli and/or rouge. In fact, if the case John A. Nagle, Assistant Director is marked "basemetal bezel," avoid polishing any of Clock Repair Instructor these cases with tripoli and rouge. Instead, products called Fabuluster™ and Dialux™ on a soft, unstitched muslin buff will brighten the appearance, without re­ moving any surface material. A little ammonia in your Call or write for the 1996 Schedule: 514 Poplar Street, Columbia PA 17512 case-cleaning solution will do nearly the same if the 717.684.8261 outside case appearance is good and really doesn't need FAX 717.684.0878 polishing, just brightening. This will complete our discussion of watch case cleaning and polishing. There is more involved with re­ The NA wee School ofHorology is a private licensed school under the finishing cases, though. Repairing cracks, broken lugs, Pennsylvania Department of Education - Division of Private Licensed Schools. and replating worn cases are other services that can be offered, but these are not within the scope of this series of articles. Cleaning and polishing the watch case after a movement repair or crystal replacement is a service r-----ROtD-----~ done by the repairman to give a bright, clean case in which to place a newly repaired movement. The actual restoration of a worn watch case is a skill and a service WATCH MATERIAL unto itself. If you want to learn more about these additional FOR GREAT SERVICE ON ALL skills, take a jewelry repair course, work with an ac­ CROWNS, SAPPHIRE & PLASTIC complished bench jeweler, read Marshall Richmond's CRYSTALS, TUBES, GASKETS, articles, and practice on your own cases to perfect your MOVEMENT PARTS, ETC. technique. It takes all'of these, not one or the other, to 1 learn and perfect these additional skills. "WE ONLY SELL GENUINE ROLEX PAR.TS" Right now you are a "novice" watch repairman. Per­ fect the skills involved with watch repair first. These CALL: s&G INDUSTRIES "Novice Watchmaker" articles address skills that are TOU FREE: 1-800-942-0047 not generally covered within the regular technical lit­ erature, but are within the scope of your ability to learn FAI: 1-800-423-4256 and use with just a modicum of written instruction and "WE STOCK WHAT WE SELL II practice. These skills that we are addressing in this se­ ries of articles will enhance your value to your customer if you are self-employed, and to your employer if you work for someone else. ~ WE GIVE Q.UICK AND EFFICIENT- SERVICE 24 HOURS A DAY! 7 DAYS A WEEKI \.. ___ !8! ~~~5!8L~~- - _.) FEBRUARY 1996 43 ROCK QUARRY

By Fred S. Burckhardt

Every year I receive thou­ The next letter is from a good money back then. We had sands of letters from people who young watchmaker who has only to make our own tools, even our write to me about this column. It been working in the trade for a few lathes. is rather difficult to answer all of months. Even with all the hardships, them, so for those who have writ­ many of us stuck through it and ten and haven't received an an­ Dear Mr. B.: look where we are now. I don't swer, this column is dedicated to you. I'm in a quandary as to want it to sound like I'm bragging, Rather than show any prefer­ whether or not I made the right but now I'm making almost three ence at all, I'm just going to pick choice. I've graduated from times the amount I started with a few letters at random and answer watchmaking school and have and can afford shoes to wear in the them the best I can. Since there are been working for three months at snow. those who prefer to remain anony­ the bench. It's cost quite a lot of You see, Cry, what you need mous, I won't tell their names so as money to get through school, and is a good case of stick-to­ not to cause any embarrassment. now I'm only making a minimum itiveness. You may think things are The first is from Dale H. who wage. I have to travel nearly fifty rough now but you will realize it's hails from Greensburg, Indiana miles to work each way, and even all downhill from here. If you and who has been a delegate from though my car is new and gets don't have the guts to stick it out Indiana to the AWI annual meet­ good mileage, I still spend nearly the way we did, then take that job ings. Dale sent a thousand dollar all I make on gas, and what's left making hamburgers. Don't think bill in response to my plea for over goes for tools. The ham­ you'll save money on gas, be­ funds to help start the "Theme burger stand down the street from cause you'll be spending it on Park for Horologists." In his let­ where I live has offered me a job medicine for a different type of ter, he states that half is from him paying twice the amount plus all I gas. and the other half from Marshall can eat. Another thing is, I won't Whatever you decide, please R., who also is from Indiana and be spending all my money on gas. don't bother me again. F.S.B. writes a column in Horological My question is, what do you think Times about jewelry repair. I should do? · PS. On second thought, let me C.R. Y. from Bismarck, ND know if you decide not to take that Answer job as I would like to apply for it. Dear D.H. and M.R.: Answer Thank you for your generosity. Dear Cry: Next is from a lady watch­ The money will be well spent. I'm sick and tired of hearing maker in Tacoma. You can rest assured that each of from people like you. You think you will receive every cent's you have it so tough. Let me tell Dear Sir: worth that you have donated. It's you what it was like when I was I've been reading your col­ people such as you that make this just starting out. umns for a long time and I feel you worthy endeavor worth all the First of all, I didn't have a car are the one who can give me some time and money that's put into it. and I had to walk to work every advice. Your names have already been day, six miles through several feet I've been working as a watch­ put on the list, and believe me, it of snow, and that was even in the maker for fifteen years. In order will take a lot to get them off! summertime. If you want to talk to supplement my income, I work F.S.B. about money, I made thirty cents as a waitress in a local taproom. an hour and that was considered The money is good and I couldn't 44 HOROLOGICAL TIMES continue with my watchmaking usually are able to understand job without the extra pay. Repair­ what you mean. Laugh, laugh, ing watches is my first love but I laugh, you are such a funny per­ may have to quit ifl can't increase son. Whenever I am working on my pay. I hate to work as a wait­ watches, I think of your words and HAVING ress since it is such a demeaning start to laugh all over again. job. If you ever come to Rangoon, TECHNICAL Can you please offer me some please be sure to visit with us. PROBLEMS? advice? Your humble servant, Nameless in Tacoma W.R.S.M.A.A.P.H.

Answer Answer Dear Nameless: Dear W.R.S.M.A.A.P.H.: No. Thanks for your kind words F.S.B. and invitation. Since I travel to Rangoon several times each year, Last but not least, a letter from I'll be sure to look you up. CALLTHEAWI W.R.S.M.A.A.P.H. in Rangoon, There is one thing I would HOTLINE Burma. like to say. My feelings were hurt when you said you laughed at my (513) 367-7799 Sir: columns. They're not meant to be Thank you very much for your funny! You Rangoonians have a entertaining columns each month. sick sense of humor. F.S.B. We sometimes have a hard time ~ translating your words but we

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FEBRUARY 1996 45 EDUCATION · UPDATE

By Ron DeCorte, CMW

The Steiner Watchmakers Lathe Some components can be easily Photo #5 shows a pump for the By the time this article is pub­ and precisely turned or worked tailstock. This is a very handy de­ lished, AWI will have received using a split chuck ( collet). There vice for drilling as well as turning thirteen new Steiner watchmakers are other components that must be between centers. Photo #6 shows lathes for the new classrooms in turned between centers for abso­ this accessory being used to drill Cincinnati. I would like to thank lute accuracy. These new lathes a hole for a bushing. Each lathe David J. Olekna and Joanne L. provide the option of either pro­ will be supplied with one of these Harris for their extremely valuable cess with a minimum of trouble. pumps. help in arranging a very generous Photo #1 shows a basic Steiner Photo #7 shows the lathe set donation by Hazel B. Astle that lathe with headstock, tailstock and up to turn between centers. Notice made the purchase of these new tip-over tool rest. As you can see, that the drive unit is mounted on a tools possible. This donation ac­ these lathes are meant to be se­ dovetail and can be adjusted over counted for about one-half the cost cured in the vise as were the a 12-mm range. This allows for with AWI absorbing the balance. Geneva-style lathes of the past. precise alignment with different Those of you who have attended This allows the lathe to be set up tailstock accessories. Project Extend classes in the past at the bench very quickly and at a In photo #8, the tailstock ac­ know that these lathes will be a convenient working location. A cessory for drilling between cen­ very welcome addition to our basic set of new Schaublin 8-mm ters is being employed to repivot classrooms. collets has also been purchased for a balance staff. Several of these The Steiner lathes were se­ each lathe enabling the operator to accessories were purchased to fa­ lected for several reasons. First do high-quality turning in a split cilitate this type of drilling opera­ and foremost is the quality aspect chuck when desired. tion when needed. of Steiner products. For more than Photo #2 shows some accesso­ Photo #9 shows the cross slide fifty years, the name Steiner has ries supplied with each lathe. being used to rough out a balance been associated with the highest From left to right, we have a fil­ staff. This staff was later finished quality watchmaking lathes avail­ ing roller, carriers (drivers) and a between centers. The roughing-out able. Versatility is another reason dead-center drive unit. The later process could also have been ac­ these lathes were chosen. The device allows the lathe to be complished using the tip-over tool wide variety of classes held at our quickly and easily converted into rest and a hand-held graver. Al­ facilities dictates that we have turns for working between centers. though AWI was unable to acquire tools that can be easily adapted for Photo #3 shows some of the cross slides due to their cost, they a broad range of projects. The fact accessories for each lathe associ­ may be acquired in the future. that Steiner is a healthy business ated with turning between centers. Photo #10 shows the cross and likely to be around in the fu­ On the left are the collets used in slide and face plate being used to ture also played an important part the tail stock to support the work. set a new jewel in a bridge. Due in the decision. After making a On the right are the centers to economics, we were not able to very substantial investment in (points) used in the dead-center purchase face plates for the lathes. equipment, it is nice to know that drive to support the other end of As with the cross slides, these may we will be able to get replacement the work. Photo #4 is a close-up also be purchased at a later time. parts and new accessories in the of some of the collets for the In the background of photos #6 future. tailstock. As you can see, they and #10 you may have noticed the Most horological lathe cover a wide range of sizes and ap­ motor used for powering the lathe. projects fall into two categories. plications. These are dental engines (motors) 46 HOROLOGICAL TIMES used in dental labs for their hope everyone had a wonderful filiate chapter or drop me a note handpieces. They are of very high holiday season, but now it's back at A WI Central and make your quality and are well suited for use to the old grind. wishes known. If you are not with these lathes. The fact that Be sure to check the bench aware of your nearest affiliate they are portable allows them to course schedule on the back of the chapter, ask us. We would be glad be positioned as required for a magazine for a class in your area. to help you. wide variety of jobs. Each new There are several good courses be­ We also have several one-week lathe will also be equipped with ing overlooked at this time. There courses scheduled in Cincinnati, one of these motors. is no better way to make your New Ohio in your new state-of-the-art The photographs used in this Year's Resolution come true. You classrooms. The same experts article are of my own Steiner lathe know, the one about being more teach excellent courses there as and accessories. I can say from ex­ productive and more profitable for well. Remember that the ELM perience that these tools are very 1996. Maybe your resolution was Trust (ELM stands for Education, rewarding to use. I am looking for­ to learn a new skill, such as be­ Library, and Museum) has $250 ward to teaching some classes that coming competent with a lathe; grants available for members utilize these new tools when I re­ polish up your watch repair; learn needing financial assistance. We turn from an extended stay in how to properly repair a specialty are also accepting applications for Switzerland. clock such as the Atmos, 400-day, students interested in our "Acad­ At the time of this writing, I or Cuckoo Clock; or enroll in any emy of Watchmaking" program realize that most everyone's of the other twenty-two bench that will start July 15, 1996. Please thoughts are on the holidays. I'm courses A WI has available. Let the contact AWI Central for informa­ sure that is why most of the expert AWI instructors help that tion regarding any of the excellent courses scheduled for the early resolution come true. If there is programs that are available to our part of 1996 are a little slow in not a course presently scheduled members. acquiring registrations. I sincerely in your area, contact your local af- Continued on page 48.

Yes, I would like to subscribe to Clocks magazine for 1 year (12 Issues) • Please commence my subscription from the ...... issue. Phone our subscription hotline on : (310) 375 6258 quoting you r Visa/Access details, o! complete this coupon: At $46 for 12 issues (USA only). I enclose a cheque/M.O. for$ ...... llll!lde payable to Wise Owl Worldwide Publications, or debit my AccassNisa: ~ DDDDDDDD DDD DDDDD Signature ...... Expiry...... - .•.•- ...... Name ...... - ...... -····-················ Address ...... Post Code ...... Home Telepho~e Number...... - ... ··-··-· Please post this coupon to: Wise Owl Worldwide Publications, 4314 West 238th Street, Torrance. CA 90505 - 4509 U.S.A.

FEBR UA RY 1996 47 Photo 1. Photo 5. Photo 9.

' Photo 2. Photo 6. Photo 10.

: 3 j

' J l l l I I l ( . .; '

Photo 3. Photo 7. Photo 11. Jerome Freitag cuts a wheel using a universal index, while Mitch Velkas makes a watch wheel in the background.

Photo 4. Photo 8. Photo 12. Sam Hodge, Don Ross, and Jim Lubic share a light hearted moment during Phase IV of the lathe program at Harrison, Ohio.

48 HOROLOGICAL TIMES AWi MATERIAL ASTRO SONIC ULTRASONIC SEARCH CLEANER A 2" deeper tank and the all new Polysonic cleaning NETWORK frequency, which eliminates any standing waves in the tank EDITOR'S NOTE: This column is designed to work in con­ resulting in a uniform cleaning junction with the AWI Movement Bank. If you can supply any pattern, makes this the ideal of the items listed here, please send details to the Material Search clock cleaning machine. The Astro Sonic power Network. Do not send the items to AWi. Members requesting generator also provides a continuous and stable output these items will be advised of their availability, and will con­ frequency that automatically accommodates changes in tact you directly. tank levels, temperatures and loads. Tank size is 11 1/2"L Material Search Network Needs as of January 4, 1996. X 9 1/2"W X 8"D and holds 3 gallons of solution. Made in lB-1 Elgin, 16 size, Arbor & Steel Wheel Winding Indica­ the USA with a 10 year Warranty on Transducers. Drain tor w/13 teeth, has outside threads at top, E & J Swigart and Timer are standard.110 volt only. Co., catalog part #4552 064408 ...... $645.00 lB-2 Mido, 1300, Sweep Wheel with Seconds Heart Special:Until February 29, 1996, purchase one case lB-5 Mathey-Tissot Type-12 Boat Clock, 21L, 555, Clutch of cleaning and/or rinse solution at same time of Wheel purchase of above 064408 cleaning machine and we lB-7 Columbus, 6S, Full Plate, Winding Pinion will pay the hazardous fee! (Continental U.S. only) lB-8 Girard Perregaux, 97 (basic model general 75), 8-3/ * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 4xl2 ligne, Barrel Bridge & Pillar Plate PLASTIC MOVEMENT lB-11 ETA, 1311, SS Wheel & Pinion, #227/68 TRAYS Set of 6 round plastic lB-12 Longines, 18.68Z, 18.50N and 18 .69N, 18.69, Escape movement trays. Four Wheel compartments for material with If you can supply any of these items, please contact: AWI Ma­ a round section that will hold terial Search Network, AWI Central, 701 Enterprise Drive, up to an 18 size movement Harrison, Ohio 45030. ~ plate. Diameter 3 1/8", Depth 3/4" - and they're stackable! 0 Cowells 90CW 063106 ...... $5.95 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Lathe MAGNETIC MINI QUARTZ AT-UP What a super idea! A mini quartz fit up that is held in place by a magnet. Stone, ceramic, wooden, or metal cases- no problem. A separate magnet is placed in your case and held tightly by adhesive tape. The mini quartz fit up attaches easily to the magnet! 1 3/8" diameter brass colored bezel, 1 1/8" white dial with black numerals. Available Roman or Arabic. THE ULTIMATE HOROLOGICAL METAL TURNING MACHINE 814068 Roman Numerals ...... $9.95 Accepts most standard Information packet available 8 mm horological collets for $4.50 from: 814069 Arabic Numerals ...... $9.95 and accessories

Solid cast-iron lathe bed * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

- Powerful motor with an COWELLS, USA electronic speed control BOX 843 RICHMOND, KY 40476-0843 S. rU:fi~);i~Inc. Collet-holding tailstock with a sensitive lever feed PHONE (606) 624-9269 wor[a~1!i;:~:,:r ;;Fi; oJogists FAX (606) 625-1191 Full range of accessories 3223 YANCEYVILLE ST., P.O.BOX 21208 designed for horological GREENSBORO, N.C.27420,USA work PHONE:(910) 621-1936 FINE TRADITIONAL BRITISH QUALITY FAX:1-800·537·4513

FEBRUARY 1996 49 INDUSTRY NEWS

Vibrograf U.S.A. Corp. clock can now get one that from a famous European while the Brookhaven offers Expands The Cyclomat marks the passing hours with church, clock tower, mu­ an arched bonnet hood and Watch Winder Line any of sixty-four different seum or private collection. reeded pilasters in oak sol­ melodies, everything from London's Big Ben, for ids and veneers. Sligh even­ Mr. Joseph D. Presti, the sonorous chimes of instance, serves as the source tually plans to offer the new President of Vibrograf London's Big Ben to the of the classic Westminster CD movement on other U.S.A. Corp., announced the gentle tones of "Silent chimes, the Guildford models as well. expansion of the Cyclomat Night." chimes are from Holy Trin­ "Because the Wood­ Automatic Watch Winder Each of the melodies ity Church in Surrey, En­ brook movement is elec­ Line. In addition to Models captures the brilliantly clear gland, and the famed tronic, there's no worry for 2 and 6 watches, sound available only on "Domtower" carillon in about maintenance or occa­ Vibrograf now has models compact discs. In an exclu­ Utrecht, the Netherlands, sional oiling that you might for 12, 24, and 48 watches. sive arrangement, Sligh will supplies several selections. have with a traditional me­ Each Vibrograf model fea­ be the only clock manufac­ An assortment of other chanical movement," Pulver tures durable steel gear con­ turer to offer the Woodbrook melodies also is available. says. "Just plug the clock in, struction which will outlast movement, a new technol­ Homeowners access the and it keeps perfect time while other models made with ogy that permits clocks to CD player and control panel playing beautiful music." plastic gears. Two speeds use compact disc recordings through a side door on the Sligh Furniture Co. is a are available, 1 RPM or 4 instead of traditional chimes. clock. The sound is ampli­ 115-year-old, family-owned RPM. 'The chimes of a grand­ fied through hidden speak­ furniture and clock manufac­ For further information father clock have an uncanny ers at the top. The control turer located in Holland and contact: Mr. Joseph D. ability to touch the emotions panel permits volume adjust­ Zeeland, Michigan. Now un­ Presti, President, Vibrograf of many owners," says Jeff ment, automatic night der fourth-generation Sligh U.S.A. Corp., 504 Cherry Pulver, manager of product shutoff, and the ability to pro­ family management, the Lane, Floral Park, NY 11001- development for Sligh. gram specific music tracks. company manufactures and 16%. Phone: (516) 437-8700. "Well, all I can say is, 'you The clock "chimes" on markets high-quality home Fax: (516) 437-8708. haven't heard anything yet.' some combination of hour, office furniture, business of­ The sound quality produced half-hour, and quarter-hour, fice furniture, and clocks in by our new Woodbrookmove­ depending on the music se­ the United States and inter­ ment is simply incredible." lection. A specially devel­ nationally. Typical grandfather oped computer-controlled For more information clocks offer a selection of no system integrates the CD contact: Sligh Furniture Co., more than three chime melo­ player with the time-keeping 1201 Industrial Avenue, Hol­ dies, produced by striking ei­ mechanism, so standard land, MI 49423. Phone: ther a short metal rod or a music CDs can't be used. (616) 392-7101. Fax: (616) long brass tube. For now, the Wood­ 772-9632 (for clock infor­ Compact Discs Provide Sligh offers sixty-four brook movement is available mation). Unsurpassed Sound In different melodies on three on two traditional grandfather Sligh's Latest Clock In­ specially programmed CDs clocks: the Wellesley and the Jewelers MutualEBtablishes novation with its new Woodbrook Brookhaven. The Wellesley GIA Sscholarship Fund movement. Each melody is features a swan neck pedi­ Homeowners who have an actual recording of a ment, cherry finish and in­ The Jewelers Mutual In­ always wanted a grandfather clock or antique music box laid mahogany accents, surance Co. has established 50 HOROLOGICAL TIMES two scholarship funds at the the collection includes forty and indoor and outdoor group how easy it is to see Gemological Institute of new models packed with clocks. and hear the difference that America that will be style and unique design details. "Glo-Flex" is safe to SweepZone Technology awarded to deserving stu­ Textured and reflective use, easy to apply, non-radio­ makes. Each ultrasonic dents wishing to acquire dials, as well as a host of new active, recyclable, and keeps cleaning system equipped gemological training. straps, bring the collection to its glow for up to eight hours. with SweepZone Technol­ The scholarships are in­ the forefront of fashion. In­ Rolls of standard honey­ ogy contains L&R's "Smart tended to honor Richard spired by the latest "techno" comb-pattern "Glo-Flex" are Circuit" with Pulse Width Kem and William Argo, who looks, "Sterling," "Wire," available in 1 112", 2", and Modulation (PWM), a cus­ have served both the jewelry and "Glint" incorporate 3" widths, in 100-foot tom-engineered electronic industry and Jewelers Mu­ matte metallic leather straps lengths, with self-adhesive circuit that senses cleaning tual Insurance Co. through in silver, copper, and gold. or sew-on backing. Custom load, solution level, and volt­ their service on Jewelers These multifunction watches sizes, shapes, signs, and spe­ age fluctuations-and auto­ Mutual's board of directors. feature month, date, and day cial effects using transparent matically adjusts to create The Richard Kem and displays. inks are possible for creative consistent cleaning power. William Argo scholarships The core collection will accents and enhanced visibil­ IIDA visitors also were will be issued in the amount retail from $55 to $85. Spe­ ity. able to peek inside L&R's of $500 each, twice a year cialty models such as the "Glo-Flex" is manufac­ testing laboratory, where in­ for five years. They can be alarm, compass, automatics, tured by American Ingenu­ novative products and ideas applied to any GIA on-cam­ and chronographs will range ity, Inc., and is available for the jewelry industry be­ pus or distance education from $85 to $150. through: Keep In Touch, 30 gin, and where these prod­ gemology program. The Esprit Timewear Lafayette Square, Vernon, ucts are tested and perfected. "We are pleased that we collection is produced and CT 06066. Phone: (800) 569- "At L&R, we are always can support GIA in this distributed by Egana of 9075. Fax: (860) 872-3468. looking to the future," said way," said Jewelers Mutual Switzerland. The group is James J. Lazarus, President CEO Ronald R. Harder. the international licensee for of L&R. "And that, com­ "And we are proud of the many well-known brand bined with our commitment service, time, and contribu­ name timepieces, including to the jewelry industry, is tion both of these men have Nicole Miller, Bulova, Pierre what IIDA members saw made which has resulted in Cardin, Cerruti 1881, and when they visited our facility." the success of Jewelers Mu­ Stefanel. L&R Manufacturing tual and the entire jewelry Company has provided Ul­ industry." trasonic Cleaning Systems, Scholarship applica­ L&R Hosts Jewelery In­ Solutions and Accessories tions are available by calling dustry Distributors Asso­ for more than six decades. GIA at (310) 829-2991, ext. ciation Site Visit For more information on the 355, or write to GIA Finan­ new SweepZone Technol­ cial Aid, P.O. Box 2110, Recently, L&R Manu­ ogy or other Ultrasonic Santa Monica, CA 90407- facturing Company, a leader Cleaning Systems and Solu­ 2110. Fax: (310) 828-6589. in Ultrasonic Cleaning Sys­ tions contact: L&R Manu­ tems, Solutions and Acces­ facturing Company, 577 Elm ESPRIT Timewear Moves sories, was host to represen­ Street, Kearny, NJ 07032- Forward With Forty New tatives from more than 3604. Phone: (201)991-5330. Styles For Winter/Spring I twenty customers during the ~ Collection New "Glo-Flex" Enhances annual Jewelry Industry Dis­ Nighttime Visibility tributors Association (IIDA) Following its successful site visit. launch, Esprit Timewear is "Glo-Flex," a new, The JIDA members on target for another hit with lightweight, flexible vinyl who visited L&R's Kearny, the introduction of its Win­ material with exceptional New Jersey plant got an ter/Spring I Collection. In­ retro-reflective and photo-lu­ insider's tour of the facility. corporating some of the minescent properties is now A demonstration of the season's most exciting fash­ available in standard rolls company's new SweepZone ion trends with Esprit's and custom configurations Technology Ultrasonic unique design philosophy, for use on jewelry, watches, Cleaning System showed the FEBRUARY 1996 51 CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING

HAMILTON ELECTRIC WATCH REPAIR. REGULATIONS & RATES Expert, experienced service on all Model 500 and 505 Electric watches. -- Want to buy Hamilton Electric CertlftedllasterWatchmaJrer Ads are payable in advance $. 75 per parts. Also unusual Hamilton watches, Hamilton ad­ Joutbll Bon word, $.80 per word in bold type. vertising and memorabilia. -- Rene Rondeau, P.O. Classified display ads are $30.00 per Box 391, Corte Madera, CA 94976. (415) 924-6534, 8"l88 Tnllled - WOS'l'BP Fax (415) 924-8423. column inch, 2-1/4" wide. Ads are not UPAlll AND BIS'l'OIATION commissionable or discountable. The From Antique Verge Fusee to Modem Quartz publisher reserves the right to edit all PLATFORM ESCAPEMENTS Case Repair copy. Price lists of services will not be I have over 40 years experience in restoring and SPECIALIZINGINCBRONOGRAPBS accepted. Confidential ads are $5.00 making parts for platform escapements, staffs, cylin­ ders, pinions, escape wheels, pallets, hairsprings, additional for postage and handling. jewels, repivoting and others. New and reconditioned TM Services The first of the month is issue date. platforms fitted to your movement. John Barrs, 3924 (Time Master) Copy must be received 30 days in S.W. Holden St., Seattle, WA 98136; (206) 935- 1290 Front St., Suite 125, Binghamton, NY 13901 advance (e.g. April issue closes for 0596. For more info telephone 607-775-3302 copy on March 1st). HOROLOGICAL TIMES SHIP'S CHRONOMETERS OVERHAULED. 701 Enterprise Drive Also keys, box hardware, etc. I buy chronometers and partial movements. I year guarantee on repairs. Harrison, OH 45030 DEWEY CLARK, (410) 592-3617. CLOCK WHEEL AND Phone (513) 367-9800 PINION CUTTING Fax (513) 367-1414 Fast service -- Write for free Bro­ REPIVOTING - balance staffs, pinions, arbors for wrist and pocket watches. Do not replace original chure and price list. Fendleys, 2535 parts, let us repivot to manufacturer standards. Juliusz Himes St., Irving, TX 75060. (214) Dabrowski, J.D. Watchworks Co., 210 Post St., Suite 986-7698. 506, San Francisco, CA 94108; Phone: (415) 397- TRADESMAN 0310, Fax: (415) 397-0601.

DIALREF1NISIDNGCO.FASTSERVICE,FIN­ CUTIERS cycloidal for clock wheels and pinions. EST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. Special­ Module 0.2 to 1.0. Constant profile producing tradi­ ACCUTRON ize on changing dial feet positions to fit the quartz tional square bottomed teeth, 104 sizes. Escape cut­ movement. Send your works to: KIRK DIAL OF ters: recoil (set of seven sizes), dead beat (set of four REPAIR SEATTLE,4th & Pike Bldg., Suite 625, Seattle, WA sizes). Ratchets 60° and 70°. All cutters made in 8% 98101; (206) 623-2452. cobalt M42 High Speed Steel and heat treated under vacuum. Also cutter grinding wheels, Grit and CBN. Specializing in Send for Information Sheet, prices, and order forms AREYOUSPENDINGTOOMUCHFORCRYS­ to : P.P. Thornton (Successors), Ltd., Horological Cut­ 214 & 218 Movements TALS?? We will make any flat mineral or heavy ter Makers, The Old Bakehouse, Upper Tysoe, plastic crystal. One-day turnaround. Call or write for Warwickshire, CV35 OTR, England; Telephone0295- • Quick turnaround time price list. D & H Crystal Co., 708-D Westchester Dr., 680454, Fax 0295-688176. High Point, NC 27262; phone/fax (910) 889-0148. • Guaranteed to be accurate for 1 year Larry Blanchard Service Company QUARTZ CONVERSIONS • Using original parts FINE WATCH REPAIR WATCH RUSTED? DISCONTINUED? • Fully insured by Jewelers NO PARTS? SENTIMENTAL? GOLD CASE? • Accutron Tuning Fork SEND IT TO AL ZAMORA Mutual Insurance Co. all calibres, specializing in 218 FOR A NEW SWISS QUALITY MOVEMENT AND FIRST QUALITY JOB CONVERSION. • Classic American Wrist & Pocket 90% SIZES POSSIBLE. Little Swiss Watch Shop SERVICE TO THE TRADE SAFE REGISTERED MAIL. ZAMORA 3529 Chamblee Tucker Road 1545 West Sycamore St. 280 PRESIDIO PLACE Atlanta, GA 30341 Kokomo, Indiana 46901 (0~ BUFFALO, NY 14221-3746 (317) 868-9161 ~ (716) 633-6138 1-800-418-2345 --- Fax (716) 633-7686 Information: (770) 458-5805

52 HOROLOGICAL TIMES CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING

ATMOS BY JAEGER-LECOULTRE POCKET WATCH CASE REPAIR -- Bezels, hinges, springs, dents, etc. HARRY MAZAR, Tick-Tock Overhauled with a ACCUTRON Specialties, 308 N. McLeansboro St., Benton, IL three-year (3) warranty on all labor 62812. Phone (618) 439-6995. MIKE'S CLOCK CLINIC REPAIR 1326 Stanford Street Santa Monica, CA 90404-2502 We are accepting new trade CLOCK and MUSIC BOX parts, mainsprings, ma­ Established in 1982 & AWi Trained accounts for repair of terial and tools. Custom made to order or repair of I also overhaul 400-day clocks gears, pinions, and parts. Catalog $3.00. TANI ENGI­ Please Call (310) 828-6707 214 & 218 or any other NEERING, Box 338, Atwater, OH44201; (216) 947- http://www.webcom.com/-z4murray/ unusual Accutrons 2268. FREE ESTIMATES r ALVIN KRUTOLOW FOR QUARTZ WATCH REPAIR ROLEX SERVICE GIVE US A CALL THE CLOCK SHOP, 203 Baltimore Street, Master Watchmaker, 47 years experience. LET'S TALK ACCUTRONS Cumberland, MD 21502, (301) 777-1188. Awarded technical certificate from Rolex in 1977. Service includes case & bracelet refin­ WE ARE JUST A FREE ishing & waterproofing of case. All watch TIMING MACHINES -- NEW AND REFUR­ parts are genuine Rolex. We specialize in the PHONE CALL AWAY BISHED. Quality Service and Repair. DON HOLDEN, repair of high-grade watches & clocks. Not Box 56, Penna. Furnace, PA 16865. Call (814) 692- affiliated with Rolex Watches, Inc. USA. Ask 1-800-360-6511 2285. ~or Alvin or Marcus, (203) 792-4539. ,... Spencer's Watch & Clock Repair ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE 602 S. Spring Garden Ave. We are Factory Authorized Service for: Deland, FL 32720 ARTICLES FOR SALE * VIBROGRAF & PORTESCAP * TICK-0-PRINT & L&R We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience. HIGH QUALITY CLOCK & WATCHMAKERS JACK PHILLIPS TOOLS. Depthing tools, milling spindles, wheel & ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE About Time pinion cutters, etc. Illustrated catalogue $10, J. Malcolm 757 Lincoln Ave., #26 Watch & Clock Repair Center Wild, 12 Norton Green Close, Sheffield SS 8BP, England. U.S. Contact: M.M. Ambrosino, Fax (718) San Rafael, CA 94901 Third Generation Master Watchmaker 358-7750. For Information 20+ Years of Experience Call (415) 453-9266 Quality & Fast Turnaround Average Shoptime on Rolex - 10 Days HENRY FRIED'S 23rd Horological Tour to France, Please Call (503) 579-7875 Switzerland (Basel Fair), Austria & Italy. April 22 - May 8, 1996. $3,700.00 PP. For brochure call Nick RESTORATION & PARTS Lerescu at 1-800-262-4284. MANUFACTURING FOR ALL CHELSEA SHIP'S CLOCKS REPAIRED. 20 years TYPES OF WATCHES & Vibrograf B200A, $600.00; B200, $500.00; BlOO, CLOCKS experience with Chelsea Clock Co. Harmon Hunt, 29 Pond Rd ., Island Falls, Maine 04747; (207) 463- $250.00; Watchmaster Ultrasonic Watch Cleaner, We restore all types of watches including 2864. $250.00. Ken (810) 399-3067. tuning fork, electronic, quartz, mechani­ cal, antique, high grade, etc. All types of clock restoration and custom watch, clock CHRONOMETER REPAIR & RESTORATION 812A TUBESFORL&RCLEANERSFORSALE: parts manufacturing including gear cut­ BYCRAFfMEMBEROFTHEBRITISHHORO­ I have a small quantity of 812A tubes which fit many of the older L&R Ultrasonic cleaners. For info & cost, ting, balance staffs all types, stems (regu­ LOGICAL INSTITUTE. All work to high stan­ dards. I am also looking to buy old chronometers, phone/fax (505) 294-4702 or send SASE to R. Dietzel, lar and oversize), repivoting, etc. Over 3208 Lykes, Albuquerque, NM 87110. 35 years experience in watch, clock res­ parts, boxes, etc., watch chalk marked "block toration and parts manufacturing. J.S. silverine". Phil Howard, 4220 Virginia Beach Blvd., Virginia Beach, VA 23452; (804) 481-7633, Fax Park, CMW, CMEW, member AWi & A complete selection of (804) 481-1784. NAWCC. Satisfaction guaranteed. spare parts for the WATCHES UNLIMITED, 222 Century Golden Hour Clock Plaza Mall, 7500 Crestwood Blvd., Bir­ CLOCKS: gearcutting, repivoting, jeweling, The Golden Hour Clock Co. mingham, AL 35210; Phone (205) 595- rebushing. Aircraft clocks. ROY H. NIEGEL, CMC, 7745 East Redfield Road #500 2022. Hours: Mon.-Sat. 10-9; Sun. 1-6. CMW, N31552 Saint Joe Drive, Spirit Lake, Idaho Scottsdale. f':z. 85260 83869-9544. SASE or CALL (208) 623-4330. 602-483-3711

FEBRUARY 1996 53 CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING

MORBIER & OTHER EUROPEAN City College of San Francisco Watch Repair Training CLOCKS & OVAL DOMES since 1938. In order to speak with the Instructor and ARTICLES FOR SALE For Sale, Also Parts & Cases at the same time register for the class: Voice Mail THEO BURGER (415) 731-0621. Open enrollment throughout the Watchmakers tools, equipment, material, and sup­ 3335 Birch St., Palo Alto, CA 94306 semester. 106 Bartlett St., Room 214, San Francisco, plies, mostly used. Sold by free list, available from Phone (415) 858-3636 CA 94110. When writing for information: CCSF Dashto, Tom Mister, 983 Providence Square Shop Fax (415) 858-3669 Watch Repair Instructor, 2425 Yorba St., San Fran­ Center, Virginia Beach, VA 23464; Phone/Fax (804) cisco, CA 94116. 495-2471. USEDWATCHMOVEMENTS.H.HERB&SON, 908RIVARIDGEDR.,GREATFALLS, VA22066; HAMILTONMILITARY MATERIAL.Many parts Phone (703) 549-8045, Fax (703) 759-5837. available for 992B, 4992B, M23, M22 deck watch, HELP WANTED M2 l marine chronometer, brass hardware for boxes. WATCHMAKERS LATHES BOUGHT & SOLD. Robert Ravel Co., Box 32, Devon, PA 19333. Phone JOEL LEVINE, ATLANTA. GA. (770) 923-5522. (610) 644-4272. Top-notch clockmaker wanted for well-established shop in San Francisco Bay area. Clockmaking school MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed low­ graduate preferred for full time position. Antique and BE ALL THE CLOCKMAKER YOU CAN BE! est prices--as low as $2.30. Two-year guarantee. Large Thornton Cutters in stock. KEN LAW, CMC, H.C. new clocks, experience with complicated movements, selection of hands and numerals. Free delivery. SASE 30, Box 825, Prescott, Arizona 86301. use oflathe and tools, including bushing tool, a must. or call (704) 333-0221 . HALL CLOCK SHOP, 1512 Salary and benefits negotiable. Pleasant working con­ Central Ave., Charlotte, NC 28205. ditions in family-owned business. Send resume to: Scott Hampton, 3401 Mt. Diablo Blvd., Lafayette, CA 94549; (510) 284-4720. Send $3.00 for our new clock supply catalog! BUSINESS FOR SALE Tlmesavers Box 12700 r ;,;;E~ --;~;;- -;;0-;;~, Scottsdale, AZ. 85267 WATCH-CLOCK-SALES-SERVICE: This location I WATCH REPAIR PEOPLE I 602-483-3711 18 years, gross 200K+, expandable, everything in­ cluded, would like to retire! S. Central Texas: Phone I Has your salary doubled in the last 3 years? I evenings 7-9 PM central time (210) 434-1630 or Fax I Are you losing income? I (210) 525-0576 anytime. Must be a good technician. I Up to $52,000+ per year I CUCKOO CLOCK AND BIRD Owner carry part. Please call (810) 358-9080 CAGE BELLOWS MATERIAL Save time, money, and work recovering WATCH - CLOCK - JEWELRY SHOP L------.J bellows. Easier than replacing. For infor­ mation, send business-size SASE to: Great opportunity in beautiful JANDi GOGGIN Sedona, Arizona Box 175H, Huntington, NY 11743-0175 250 sq. ft. - Low Rent - $13,000 Tuesday - Saturday 10-6 (520) 282-5414 WANTED TO BUY

WATCH BATIERIES WANTED: Replacement case and hour wheel for Rayovac - 30¢ Maxell - 35¢ Ansonia !SS $1 watch., 3/8" thick. Marked: Patent Send SASE for price list SCHOOLS 4-17-1988, NY United States ofAmerica. A.C. Banks, Nestor Watch Repair Center 40982 Hwy. 41, Unit 3, Oakhurst, CA 93644; (209) 2222 Coronado Ave. #35 683-6317. San Diego, CA 92154-2037 JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL Phone & Fax (619) 423-2488 40-24 62nd St. Woodside, NY 11377 We pay 97% of market for karat gold scrap (any Phone(718)424-2929 amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment return mail! Quality Instruction Since 1945 Ship insured/registered mail to: AMERICAN MET­ CASIO WATCH PARTS ALS COMPANY, 253 King St., Dept. HT, Char­ No Minimum Order Required WATCHMAKING leston, SC 29401. Established 1960. Phone (803) Kaben Enterprises (17months) 722-2073. WATCH REPAIR 3529 Chamblee Tucker Road (9and 13months) Atlanta, GA 30341 TOP BUYERS OF WATCHMAKERS TOOLS, Official Casio Distributor JEWELRY DESIGN & REPAIR MATERIALS, EQUIPMENT, ETC. We travel for ORDERS (800) 418-2345 Ideal Housing, Dining, Recreation prompt settlement. Retirements and estate specialists. INFORMATION (no) 458-5805 Please call Tom Mister at (804) 495-2471 or (804) 249-4237 (leave message). 54 HOROLOGICAL TIMES CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING

RETIRING, RETIRED OR OTHERWISE WANTED Buying watchmakers' large or small • Watches: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars SUPPORT accumulations of tools, equipment, etc. Piguet, Vacheron, Lecoultre, IWC, Etc. Will travel east of the Mississippi Also Buying Low Grades--Gold-Filled & THE Ken Wald horn (81 O) 399-3067 Gold (Hamilton, Bulova, Elgin, Gruen, Etc.) • Sterling & Plated Trays, Dishes, Service Sets, Etc. AWi-ELM TRUST ANYTIIlNG ILLINOIS • Scrap--Gold-Filled, Gold, Silver, Platinum, Want to buy Illinois wristwatches, dials, movements Watch Batteries (Silver or Mixed) SCHOLARSHIP PROGRAM and cases (complete or parts) in any condition for avid CALL TOLL FREE 1-800-426-2344 private collector. Please call 800-421-1968, x5520, SEND YOUR Fax 714-725-9787 or mail to Fred Friedberg, c/o TAMS, P.O. Box 2068, Tustin, CA 92681-2068. SPECIALTY METALS REFINING COMPANY OLD WATCH BATIERIES TO: Former watchmaker reopening business seeks to 1O Bay Street AWi CENTRAL buy small quality shop, materials, tools. (304) 535- Westport, CT 06880 6639. Members: Better Business Bureau 701 ENTERPRISE DR. Jewelers Board of Trade WANTED: Paying high prices for chronograph and Ron Fned , President Our 130th Consecutive Ad HARRISON, OH 45030 high grade watches, movements, dials, cases, & parts. Dean Samelle, 25 W. Beverley St., Staunton, VA 24401 , phone & fax (540) 885-6064.

WANTED: Vintage Unimat-SL 5-in-I Precision Machine Shop. Bill Perkins, 1502 Johnson Rd., MISCELLANEOUS Centralia, WA 98531: (360) 736-3949. REWARD Watches Wanted The three watch repairmen using the codes: 8-4-8 EW 1R 7885-P R 74 72 sometime during the period 1938-1952, or their families, TO PLACE A could be eligible for a large reward for their assistance. Anyone recognizing any of the three codes could also be eligible for a reward. Please write for details. CLASSIFIED AD B.R. Peninger, Box 58331, Louisville.KY 40268 1 We desperately need our retail CALL (513) 367-9800 customers' fine watches by: THANK YOU FAX (513} 367-1414 Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron & Constantin, Movado, A Thank You Note to A WI Members: Gubelin, etc. I always knew that the A WI provided education and OR SEND TO: was a champion of the watch repairer's interest, but I We are paying top prices for any high have also always felt that it furnishes an avenue for quality, unusual or complicated comradeship, bonding, and members helping one HOROLOGICAL Wrist or Pocket Watches another. The recent loss of my wife, Fay, proved tnatmy feeling When You're Ready to Sell a Fine Watch was so very right. I received condolences and sympa­ TIMES thy cards by the carload and from all over the country. Call Us Toll Free 1-800-842-8625 In some instances, the names of our members were In Texas 1-214-902-0664 unfamiliar to me. It was an amazing outpouring of 701 ENTERPRISE DR. love and sympathy. Always prompt immediate payment! During this tragic period, these supportive expres­ Wingate's Quality Watches sions are deeply appreciated. Please accept my heart­ HARRISON, OH 45030 felt thanks. P.O. Box 59760 • Dallas, TX 75229-1760 Ben Matz

FEBRUARY 1996 55 Saving your Horological Times? ADVERTISING Announcing NEW & IMPROVED HT BINDERS! We have the answer to protecting and organizing your magazines. Our leather­ INDEX look binder holds 12 issues (one volume). End the frustration of searching for back issues or trying to remember technical details that you just know Borel ...... 5 you've read. If you are interested in organization, send a check or money order in the amount of $12.00 (postpaid) to: HT Binders, 701 Enterprise Butterworth Clocks ...... 18 Drive, Harrison, Ohio 45030. (Please allow three weeks for handling and delivery.) Cas-Ker ...... inside back cover

"Ifyou have any ideas to share ' Clocks ...... 47 with the Horological Times HAVING Cowells ...... 49 staff, send your letters to: TECHNICAL PROBLEMS? Esslinger ...... inside front cover

ETA SA ...... 7 AWi Central

701 Enterprise Drive Eveready ...... 9 Harrison, Ohio 45030 DRS ...... 15

CALLTHEAWI Grobet-Vigor ...... 11 1996 INDEX HOTLINE A complete index for 1996 Historic Timekeepers ...... 18 issues of Horlogical Times ( 513) 367-7799 will appear in the January, S. LaRose, Inc ...... 49 1997 issue. Livesay's, Inc ...... 31 KEY TEST FOR McCaw, William S ...... 3 QUARTZ WATCHES NAWCC ...... 43 Newall Mfg ...... 21 The "KEY TEST FOR QUARTZ WATCHES" by Ewell Hartman, CMW is a quick and simple method of locating the problem in a quartz analog S&G Industries ...... 43 movement. The only tool required is a meter. Smith Supply House ...... 45 Material and instructions for learning this test are supplied by the AWI­ ELM Trust as part of their educational work. There is no charge to any group wishing to learn this test. There are great benefits to learning this Toledo Jewelers ...... 41 in a group setting. However, for individuals who may not be able to participate in a group, it is available to them also. Twin City Supply ...... 37

For more information call or write the AWI office for an information Vibrograf USA Corp ...... 23 sheet and application form. Witschi Electronics ...... 21

56 HOROLOGICAL TIMES flumJmoJrnm~3==» SEIKO BUL~VA .. jj = • · ~· OCITIZEN OQ:,-YQ~!

,____....-.._STEMS • CROWNS • CRYSTALS B~l IERIES • MOVEMENTS MOVEMENT PARTS

111/atch parts are no problem when you order V V from cas-Ker. we provide same day turnaround on most orders and most items are shipped from our huge inventory. our experienced and knowledgeable phone clerks will provide the quick and efficient service you need. If you have problems with watch parts or crystals, we can help you. call us today! Your Best source for watch Parts Cas·~(l(O. CALL 1·800-487-0408 FAX 1·800-487-5848 LOCAL PHONE 513-241-7073 FAX 513-241-5848 2121 SPRING GROVE AVENUE PO BOX 14069 CINCINNATI OH 45250-0069 1996 Bench Courses To register for these courses, please send your Bench Course registration and fee to: AWi Central, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH 45030. PLEASE NOTE: Registrations are limited and will be selected by the earliest postmarks. You may register by fax if you wish; if so, please include your Visa or Mastercard number, card expiration date, signature, and phone number. Registrations cannot be taken by phone. All registration fee checks and charges are processed immediately upon receipt. FAX (513) 367-1414 • PHONE (513) 367-9800

DATE CLASS LOCATION INSTRUCTOR FEE MARCH 16-17 Hairspring Vibrating Kansas City, MO Joseph Cerullo $100.00 16-17 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Seattle, WA Robert Bishop $100.00 22-25 Lathe Course (Phase 11) Charlotte, NC Roy Hovey $280.00 23 Quartz Perpetual Calendar Austin, TX Remy Waelchli $ 50.00 23-24 Repair of the Atmos Clock Minneapolis, MN Gerald Jaeger $100.00 24 Quartz Perpetual Calendar San Diego, CA Remy Waelchli $ 50.00 APRIL 1-2 ETA New Products Harrison, OH Remy Waelchli $100.00 13-14 Mechanical Chronographs Oakland, CA Mark Heist $100.00 13-14 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Boston, MA Robert Bishop $100.00 14 Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Seattle, WA Jeff Broughton $ 50.00 27-28 Hairspring Vibrating Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX Joseph Cerullo $100.00 MAY 5 Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Oklahoma City, OK Jeff Broughton $ 50.00 10-13 Lathe Course (Phase Ill) Charlotte, NC Roy Hovey $280.00 17-19 Advanced Clock Repair Seattle, WA Ron Iverson $150.00 18-19 Mechanical Chronographs Dallas/Ft. Worth, TX Mark Heist $100.00 JUNE 14-17 Cross Slide Operations Minneapolis, MN Roy Hovey $240.00 15-16 Mechanical Chronographs Seattle, WA Mark Heist $100.00 1996 Project Extend Classes AWi's continuing Education Program offers one-week and two-week classes in various phases of watch & clock repair techniques. Work alongside recognized leaders in the field of horology. See how they handle the everyday situations we all encounter.

DATE CLASS INSTRUCTOR FEE

MARCH 4-8 Clock Case Repair Jim Williams $250.00 11-15 Introduction to Clock Repair Jim LaChapelle $250.00 18-22 Mechanical Chronographs Bernhard Stoeber $250.00

APRIL 8-20 12-Day Lathe Course Roy Hovey $780.00 29-May 3 Basic Electronics & Meter Reading Gerald Jaeger $250.00

MAY 20-24 Hairspring Vibrating &Timing Adjustments James Lubic $250.00

JUNE 3-7 Basic Jewelry & Watch Case Repair Marshall Richmond $250.00 10-14 Accutron Repair Henry Frystak $262.00 23-27 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Robert Bishop $250.00

All Project Extend classes are held in AWi's new training rooms in Harrison, Ohio. Call or write for information and details for the classes that interest you! AWi Central, 701 Enterprise Dr., Harrison, OH 45030 • Phone (513) 367-9800 Fax (513) 367-1414