MORE SELLING POWER FOR YOUR STORE This Fabulous Kreisler Display will help you sell more KEYSTONE PRICING* Watchbands in the $5.95 to $27.95 retail range than you FOR EXTRA PROFITS! ever thought possible. It is yours FREE when you order SHARP® either of the Best Seller Assortments below. SHARP@ QUALITY No Strings! No Hidden Costs! Yours Free! • Japanese movements • Superior quality control in all F SHARP components Takes Less Space! • Exacting quality controls at 1 1 Takes only 10 /2" x 10 /2" factory and distribution centers of counter space! • 5 Year Limited Warranty for every style Pllferproofl Protects your profits. SHARP@PRODUCT Bands can't be removed • From $9.95 to $79.95 until you release the lock! • Analog Quartz - over 200 models • High Tech - over 30 top sellers Plan-0-Grammed Stocki • Many basic fast tum economy Style number behind models for promotion every band on display • New exquisite selected tells you what you sell and what you need! distribution models

Shows 24 Men's, SHARP@ ADVERTISING 24 Women's! • Local market support See thru package shows • Network and local t v. style and price. Helps • Print campaigns in Time/People customers select what and other top magazines they want! *KEYSTONE PRICING! 10-Piece minimum (less than 10 "Best Sellers pieces billed at less 40 and 10) Sell Best!" DISPLAYS AVAILABLE The K-10498 Two-Tier Display Assortment of 48 different best Light and motion displays for 50 selling styles consists of 60 men's and 36 women's two-tone, and 90-piece units yellow and stainless steel from $6.95 to $27.95 retailers. Cost of display Is offset with free goods The K-1346BC Two-Tier Display Assortment of 48 different best selling styles consists of 48 metal and 72 leather bands from $5.95 TERMS AVAILABLE FD-9002 - 90 Piece Floor Display to $24.95 retailers. Light and Motion, 9 rows of 1O To Credit Approved Accounts marked spaces for easy tracking Prices Subject to Change and reordering. 14 Karat Gold Pierced Earring Assortments Dimensions 18" dia. x 68" height. Takes a minimum of space for high volume turnover and profits. OTHER These are our best selling units. All earrings are individually boxed. AVAILABLE DISPLAYS • Anson Men's Jewelry #90 351G #90508 • Zippe Lighters & Gifts BO pair 144 pair * Centair 14K Your Cost: $1,530.00 Your Cost: $2,660.00 • Oneida Baby • Neck Chain Displays 80 pair of best selling 14 144 pair of best selling 14 • Locket & Cross Displays Kt Gold Pierced Earrings. Kt. Gold Pierced Earrings Individually boxed in an in a pilfer-proof display elegant pilfer-proof display with motorized revolving FREE Information with motorized revolving center, miffored base and Available center. 144 gift boxes. Height: 24'14" Height: 30 '12" • Quartz Movements • Width: 16" Width: 15" • Crystals & Fittings • Depth: 16" Depth: 15" • Resale Merchandise • • Findings • Stones • Need them now? Call us Today! •Tools & Supplies•

National Wats: 800-328-0205 ..,~ Esslinger & CD. Minnesota Wats: 800-392-0334 1165 Medallion Drive FAX: 612-452-4298 ~00 ~St. Paul, Minnesota 55120 Serving the Trade Since 1923 Inquiries - Info: 612-452-7180 VOLUME 14, NUMBER 3 MARCH 1990

TM HOROLOGICAL

Official Publication of the American Watchmakers Institute

ROBERT F. BISHOP 2 PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE HENRY B. FRIED QUESTIONS & ANSWERS 6 A Swiss Pocket

CHAR LES CLEVES OLD WATCHES 8 Collecting Illinois Railroad Watches 34 WES DOOR SHOP TALK 10 Stem Fitting

JOHN A. NAGLE HODGEPODGE LODGE 12 How Hard Is It?

FRED S. BURCKHARDT ROCK QUARRY 16 Just One of Those Days Lacquers for MARVIN E. WHITNEY MILITARY TIME 18 Comparing Watch-Waltham JOE CROOKS 22 BENCH TIPS Parts

JOHN PLEWES CLOCK PIVOT RESTORATION 24 Part 2 51 DAVID A. CHRISTIANSON WATCHES INSIDE & OUT 28 A Diebold Vault Timelock

GERHARD M. HUTTER INSIDE & OUT 34 An Astronomical Clock

ARCHIE B. PERKINS TECHNICALLY WATCHES 38 Antique Watch Restoration, Part LI READ ABOUT TWO NEW BOOKS ON SKELETON CLOCKS AND JAMES ADAMS NOVICE WATCHMAKER 42 The and Barrel ENGLISH LANTERN CLOCKS MARSHALL F. RICHMOND PICKLE BARREL IN "BOOK REVIEW" BY HENRY 46 Replacing Missing or Broken Stones B. FRIED ...... PAGE 58.

HENRY B. FRIED SELF-WINDING WATCHES 48 The Brain-Matic

ROBERT B. LITTLE PAINTS AND FINISHES 51 FOR THE CLOCKMAKER DEPARTMENTS

PAUL D. WADSWORTH AFFILIATE CHAPTER COLUMN Up Front/4 54 Do You Just Belong? Bulletin Board/14 Ask Huck/44 Association News/55 HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Scholastically Speaking/56 Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211, for $40.00 per year ($4.50 New Products and Literature/57 per copy in the United States and $50.00 per year; $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.). Second class postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL TIMES, Classified Ads/60 P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Dates to Remember/64 Advertisers' I ndex/64 OFFICE HOURS: Monday through Friday 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM (Eastern Standard Time). Closed on all national holidays. AWi HOTLINE: (513) 661-4636 (24-hour recording). FAX: (513) 661-3131. George Daniels Henry B. Fried FELLOWS Josephine F. Hagans * * *Orville R. Hagans OF THE AMERICAN Gerald G. Jaeger EXECUTIVE AND EDITORIAL OFFICES WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE Robert A. Nelson Hamilton E. Pease Milton C. Stevens AWi Central Marvin E. Whitney P.O. Box 11011 *Deceased 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838

Milton C. Stevens: Co-Editor Michael P. Danner: Co-Editor Regina Stenger: Associate Editor Harold J. Herman: Senior Technical Editor Donna Baas: Production Director

Nancy Wellmann: Business Manager Margie M. Brater: Circulation Manager Mildred Howard: Circulation

TECHNICAL EDITORS: esponsibility-something we all should have and look for in our friends James Adams Wes Door Rand loved ones-is the topic this month. The responsibility of the Robert F. Bishop Henry B. Fried watchmaker/clockmaker, retailer, material distributor, and manufacturer James H. Broughton Ewell D. Hartman to each other is worthy of a new look. Fred S. Burckhardt Robert A. Nelson First, and most important, it is the responsibility of the watchmaker/ Charles Cleves Archie B. Perkins clockmaker to the retailer and the public to be a competent craftsman and to Steven G. Conover Marshall F. Richmond update his knowledge in all the new models and techniques as they become Joe Crooks Marvin E. Whitney available. The incompetent workman is a liability to our profession and to himself. Public confidence in the repair field in general is at a low ebb, but AW/ OFFICERS: the competent craftsman can command the respect and price he deserves. Second, the watch/ clockmaker has a responsibility to the material Robert F. Bishop, CEWS: President distributor to know how to order parts properly and to make the effort to Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CEWS: Vice President order by correct name and part number. James Adams, CMW: Secretary The material distributor has a responsibility to the watch/clockmaker Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC, FAWI: Treasurer to maintain an adequate stock, and assist the watchmaker in identifying the new or uncommon calibre. The individual watchmaker cannot be expected to AW/ DIRECTORS: maintain detailed information on today's plethora of makes and models. The retailer owes the watch/clockmaker adequate pay and respect. He James H. Broughton, CEWS should provide good working conditions, and encourage him to attend all Fred S. Burckhardt available seminars by providing time off and expenses. His prices should re­ Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CEWS flect a fair profit; not so high as to drive the customer away. Henry Frystak, CMW The manufacturer should provide-as many do-technical information Ewell D. Hartman, CMW and parts availability as soon as a new model is introduced. The customer Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CEWS, FAWI who cannot get service on his new model watch because of parts lag is apt to Donald R. Loke blame the repairman. Robert L. Macomber, CMC Thus we can see that we are all responsible to each other. We must Ben Matz, CMW try to understand each other's problems. Complaining about conditions is Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CEWS, FAWI not enough. The individual has little power. We as professional watch/clock­ Marshall F. Richmond, CMW makers, through our associations, can be a force for change-if we discharge our responsibilities as we should. Paul D. Wadsworth: Affiliate Chapter Director Jim Lubic: Research & Education Council Director William Biederman, CMW: Past President

Milton C. Stevens, FAWI: Executive Secretary Michael P. Danner: Administrative Director ON THE FRONT: A peaceful morning sunrise Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without per­ mission from the American Watchmakers Institute. Copy­ at Lake Loramie, Ohio. Photographed by Renee right ©1990 by the American Watchmakers Institute. Gerrard, Dayton, Ohio.

2 Horological Times/March 1990 T·9B w/HEATER T·14B w/HEATER List $305.00 List $412.00 s35goo SALE . ... . s25000 SALE . .. . . T-9B Basket . .. .. S39.00 T-14B Basket .... S49.00

SOLUTIONS ...

#111WATCH #3 WATCH RINSING ULTRASONIC CLEANING SOWTION NOFOME SOLUTION WATCH RINSING List$19.45gal. List$17.80ga1. List$17.80gal. C1600 List$17.aoga1. SALE .. gal. s1750 SALE .. gal. S1600 SALE .. gal."" I SALE .. gal. S1600

ELLANAR HOME CARE PRODUCTS Buy36 - We'llgiveyouthegrossprice!

8 oz. JEWELRY 8 oz. DELUXE 8 oz. SILVER 8 oz. PEARL CLEANER JEWELRY CLEANER JEWELRY CLEANER 11 oz. SILVER DIP CLEANER List$17.75doz. ~550 List$22.50doz. ~975 List$24.oodoz. ust$28.6Qdoz. ust'24.60doz. ~975 SALE . . doz."" I SALE .. doz."" I SALE . . doz. s1915 SALE . doz. S2625 SALE .. doz."" I FREE! ASK FOR OUR NEW FINDINGS} TOOL AND DASON RING CATALOG

March 1990/Horological Times 3 formation you have provided, the consultant will call upon knowledge and previous experience with such timepieces and offer an opinion as to how you may be able to resolve your UP FRONT problem. Under no circumstances do we guarantee absolute positive results, nor does A WI , or the consultant, assume any SECOND OPINION SERVICE NOW AVAILABLE responsibility or liability for loss or damage (actual or alleged) to the timepiece from the time it leaves your possession un­ or more than a year now plans for implementing a til it is returned to you. The consultant will perform no ser­ Second Opinion Service for AWI members have bee~ vice other than to offer advice on how you may resolve your Fin the making. We are pleased to announce that this problem. unique service is now ready for use by AWI members. We have If, after receiving the second opinion from the con­ compiled an impressive list of consultants who are experts in sultant, you believe the procedure(s) required might be be­ their specific field. All have agreed to use their knowledge, ex­ yond your capability, seek the service of someone who is a perience, and abilities to try to help AWI members solve their specialist in this field. AWI may be able to provide you with their difficult technical problems. the names of such specialists if you need assistance. When a member has a technical problem with a time­ Second opinions are not free. Members using the piece, he or she is urged to contact AWI Central to see if the service will pay a fee of up to $35 which will be paid directly Technical Committee can help. If the member is unable to to the consultant. If, upon receipt of your timepiece, the con­ solve the problem with the information supplied by the Tech­ sultant determines that a second opinion will be of little value , nical Committee, they have the option of seeking a second the consultant will return the timepiece with an explanation opinion from one of AWi's Second Opinion consultants. giving reasons for this action. If a timepiece is returned in this When you seek second opinion help, AWI will supply manner, the member will be entitled to a refund of $25. The you with a list of consultants who have expertise with the consultant will complete the examination within ten working particular kind of timepiece you have. You will select the con­ days after receiving the timepiece. The consultant will write sultant of your choice from the list. After discussing your a detailed account of the findings along with recommendations problem with the consultant by phone, you may be advised to for repair. If more than one procedure is required, they will send your timepiece for examination. If examination is re­ be numbered in sequential order. quired, the consultant will advise you how to pack and ship We hope that on the rare occasion you are called the timepiece. When the problem timepiece is received, the upon to ask for a second opinion, the process will help you consultant agrees to devote up to one hour of time in at­ solve your problem and that you will gain insight from the ex­ tempting to locate the problem. perience to help you solve the same and similar problems on Based on this comprehensive examination and the in- your own the next time you encounter them. 'UCil3

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4 Horological Times/March 1990 AWB/SKYLINE INDUSTRIES INC.

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A Swiss

I am trying to learn about a been in her family for generations. (Swiss especially) could help me in small pocket watch which once The face cover appears to be identifying this watch and clarifying all Q belonged to my great-grand- plastic rather than glass, so it may have the confusion. I have made some draw­ mother. I would like to know when been more recently replaced. The en­ ings which I hope can be of some help. and where it was made and of its manu­ graved border areas are gold in appear­ Any help you can provide facturer if possible. It measures about ance while the flatter surface areas are would be appreciated. 1~" in diameter. I have taken it to silver in appearance. More than one M.K. Jensen several antique watch/clock repair shops jeweler believes it was made in Swit­ Buena Park, CA with conflicting results. The estimates in zerland and that it is of 80% silver. age range from the 1760s to the 1930s. Another jeweler stated that about 10 As my great-grandmother was rubies were used in the workings. I have examined the sketches an immigrant from France in 1911, Perhaps someone in your insti­ you drew and I am familiar I would be interested to know if it had tute familiar with European watches A with these watches. It is typical Swiss of the 1875-1900 era, made in LeLocle, a small but very busy watch­ FACE BACK making town near the French border. The watch was "ebauche" pro­ duced, chain supplied by a maker, and (;\ finished by various individuals who put Much many different names on them . Engraving • ~engraved ~- 15' detailing The case is of low-grade silver .-· ~etailing ti

OUTSIDE OF INSIDE COVER INSIDE OF BACK COVER INSIDE OF INSIDE COVER INNER WORKINGS (Not too accurate.) More detailing ~'rfJJ. , around edge ® @ ~ ::r""' fY1 (jl"\hre )~rnon. toir r-- ~ .....i'! '-' ... '!-.... c-- ~ -..,, @ '$< '-'"' ~-; ll\ i+ LJ 3 rub1s l.j s ,, .J. s 0 0

6 Horological Times/March 1990 .Jlttrel World's Strongest SPRING BAR The BOREL 100% Stainless Steel Spring Bar is the world's strongest spring bar. It guarantees peace of mind three ways: e The body and tips are far stronger than others. Very important on the new thin styles. e The spring is heavy duty, exerting far more holding pressure. lOO% e It keeps its strength because it is immune to corrosion. STAINLESS DOUBLE SHOULDER The Borel Spring Bar System No. 267 features 40 dozen STEEL 1/4 c::::> Borel Stainless Steel Spring Bars in four types: Double 5116 -===> Shoulder, Double Flange, Thin and Special (for buckles 318 llC:::S. in metal bands). They're put up in a professional cabinet 7/1'6 with 24 jumbo size bottles. An intregrated chart gives 112 .: I ~ full description of contents, p1us bottle position. 9116 5/8 -4 i- You'll find a Spring Bar in this assortment for nearly 11116 _, .. every need. Greater quantity is supplied of most 3/4 popular sizes: 5/s", 11/15", 3/4". 13/. 16 ~ 718 == Spring Bar Asst. 267/40 DOUBLE FLANGE 518 ~:!!!!!:!!~ 11116 -=i!!!!llllll:S• New Ultra·Thin Stainless Steel 314 -==-=-* 13/16 CS:t!!~!!::::SIP 718 ca:l!=::::s:si ®t:(I SPRING BAR THIN1.5mm These spring bars are used in many 1/2 -e~.... 9/16' CA! ob ULTRA-THIN new watches where band fits close to STAINLESS STEEL the case. This assortment contains 66 518 ...... ~~~=-=- bars, 6 each of 11 sizes, in a 11116 -e=:!!!!~Sz · 1/4 ~ small partitioned plastic box. 314 ~~~s::s 13116 ~!!!!!!!!!!~:S:JD 5116 ~ Replaces many of the Seiko 7/8 ~~:!!!!!!!~­ "' type spring bars. Refills available. 3lB -==-=- SPECIALBUCKLE No. 20 7/16 -=- MK-800/66 s11.95 51-8 4J I) 1/ 2 --oe:::::=-- 9/16 --==-~. NOW... YOU CAN ALWAYS HAVE THE 5/8 -c=~-- RIGHT "CURVED" SPRING BAR, TOO! Just use the BOREL-TEC Spring Bar Curving Gun. 11/16 --c:==- Curving Gun, Pick out the right straight Borel spring bar, place only .. . 3/4 it in the curving gun and pull the trigger. You're --.;;:===-- SBCG .... S19.95 in business. No need to stock curved spring bars. 13/16 -<===::1-- Order the BOREL-TEC Spring Bar Curving Gun and the Borel #267 Stainless Steel Spring Bar 718 --c:===-- BEFORE Assortment, as described above. A $74.95 value. ~ = -sa-, AFTER And pay only S69.95

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March 1990/Horologica/ Times 7 Old ffTatches

Charles Cleves

COLLECTING ILLINOIS RAILROAD WATCHES

he rise of American railroad pocket watches dates the Illinois Watch Company almost 20 years earlier. Perhaps back to April 19 1891. It was on this day that two they ran out of some type ofjewels or jewel settings and elected Ttrains traveling toward each other on the same track to friction set the jewels in these few last movements. Instead collided not too far from Cleveland, Ohio. The engineer's of marking them 161A as the previous ones were marked, they watch on the one train had stopped for a few minutes and changed the number to 161B. Even though this is one of the then restarted. Instead of making it to the next station in time last watches produced, it is worth over $5,000. Do not confuse to switch to another track, the two trains collided head on, this with a 161 watch with a "B" added by a counterfeiter. killing 11 people. It must have pressed-in jewels and the serial number will be A commission was set up to study the disaster and between 5,610,551 and 5,611,000. If this is not the case, and draw up a list of specifications for watches being used by en­ it is still marked 161B, then you might be buying a $200 gineers and conductors. During the investigation it was dis­ watch that has been altered. covered that some conductors were using cheap, undependable When discussing 16 size Bunn Specials, it is also im­ alarm clocks to time their routes. This was the golden era for portant to mention the 60-hour mainspring. This addition in railroads, and traffic was very heavy at this time. Strict guide­ the mid-1920s was one of the most significant developments lines were set up in regard to accuracy, number of adjust­ of the time. Not only could the watch run for a whole extra ments, effect of temperature changes, type of setting mechan­ day if you forgot to wind it, but it gave more even power to ism, and clearness of the dial. These standards were upgraded the watch when wound every day. Because the majority of the at different times. When you refer to railroad grade watches 60-hour Bunn Specials were cased at the factory, many people it doesn't make complete sense unless you specify a particu­ like to collect the various original case styles also. lar time period. A lot of watches that were railroad-approved Another key area of collecting Illinois watches are in 1895 no longer were approved in 1930. the Sangamo and Sangamo Special. There are at least 41 vari­ American railroad pocket watches still haven't caught ations of these names. This watch was advertised by the com­ the fancy of the wealthy European collectors, but certainly pany to be their highest grade available. Collecting a complete they are highly prized by many American collectors. The three set of even the 16 size Sangamo and Sangamo Specials may be brands that are the most collected are Hamilton, Howard, and very difficult because they made a 25- and 26-jewel version of Illinois. Of these fine companies, the most interesting to col­ this grade. Even if you are lucky enough to find one, you may lect is that of the Illinois Watch Company. They produced so not be able to afford it. many variations of their railroad watches that it is nearly Illinois offers another area of collecting not offered impossible to collect all of them. Most of the Illinois col­ to any great extent by any other company, and that is the lectors limit themselves to the 16 and 18 size movements private-labeled watches. They made more than several other only. They are the only ones that are railroad-approved. In companies together. Some of the more interesting and highly just the 16 and 18 size Bunn and Bunn Special movements, sought-after names are: Ball Watch Co., Benjamin Franklin, there are at least 111 or more distinct variations. There are at B&O RR Special, Chesapeake & Ohio Special, C&O Special, least 32 types of 16 size Bunn Specials in just the 21- and 23- Diamond Ruby and Sapphire, Inspectors Special, Pennsylvania jewel movements. Because of the many variations, this is the Special, Railroad King, Railroader, Southern Railroad Special, most interesting and most collected area of Illinois watches. Lafayette, Greenwich. It could take years to fill out a complete set of 32 watches. If you are interested in learning more about the pri­ The most sought-after watch in this set would be the vate label watches and other Illinois pocket watches, then the 21-jewel, 60-hour Bunn Special marked 161B on the main­ American Pocket Watch Encyclopedia and Price Guide , Vol­ spring barrel bridge. At this time there are less than 10 known ume Two is a must. Mr. William Meggers, Jr. and Roy Ehrhardt to exist. This was probably one of the last runs of the 161 did extensive research, and this book is considered the bible Illinois movements. The bought out for all serious Illinois collectors. liLIE

8 Horological Times/March 1990 Quartz Clean Airbrush Systems "The Solution for Cleaning Quartz Watch Movements• Zantech's unique Quartz Clean Airbrush Systems have made cleaning quartz move­ ments effortless. There is r-:"~l!lW! no need to disassemble the gear train, therefore reducing cleaning time significantly. Simply ' spray the movement for 6 PROPELLANT KIT seconds, flushing away (PHOTO ABOVE) QUARTZ CLEAN Kit Includes: any contaminants. SYSTEMS * Dual-Action Airbrush The Zantech Quartz Cleaning procedure has proven to be reliable. *Quartz Clean Solvent (1qt.) Quartz Clean Airbrush Hundreds of watchmakers have switched to Quartz Clean. For more * 2 oz. Jar with cover Propellant Kit * Movement Grippers QC-250P••••••••••• $129.95 information on the Quartz Clean System most suitable for your *Airbrush Holder needs, contact Greg Zanoni at Zantech (800) 441-7569. *Teflon Air-Hose Quartz Clean Airbrush *Air Regulator Compressor Kit Try Quartz Clean Solvent Aerosol (QC-16) for only $9.95. * Propellant Air Can (28 oz.) QC-1 SOC ...... $115.95 Center Catch Buckle Assortment Seiko Style Refills for CLA 1 Assortment (Easily clamp onto Gold Plated mesh watch bands.) Stainless Steel CL-5.5Y (5.5mm) ...... $3.95 ea. CL-5.5W (5.5mm) ...... $3.75 ea. CL-6.0Y (6.0mm) ...... $3.95 ea. CL-6.0W (6.0mm) •••••. $3.75 ea. CL-7.0Y (7.0mm) .•.... $3.95 ea. CL-7.0W (7.0mm) •••••• $3.75 ea. Sizes: 5.5mm, 6.0mm, 7.0mm, 8mm, 10mm & 15mm CL-8.0Y (8.0mm) .•.... $3.95 ea. CL-8.0W (8.0mlJl) •••••• $3.75 ea. CL-10Y (10.0mm) ...•. $3.95 ea. 12 Pc. Assortment - (6 stainless steel, 6 gold plate) CL-10W (10.0mm) •••.. $3.75 ea. CL-15Y (15mm) •••••••• $3.95 ea. CL-15W (15mm) ...... $3.75 ea. CL-A1 ...... •...... $29.95 QUARTZ WATCH CROWN ASSORTMENT WATCH BRACELET SCREW ASSORTMENT Seiko Style Crowns with rubber - 55 Pc. Assortment (5 Styles of each) washer on the crown post. 1YPEI~- SHANK 5il1YPEII ~ - SHANK ~1 Bottle# Size Tap Post Length 1-- C --I I C ----< 1 3.0mm 12 2.40mm Thread Shank Overall 2 3.0mm 12 2.00mm Bottle # Diameter Diameter Length 3 3.5mm 10 2.70mm A B C 4 3.Smm 11 2.90mm 1.00mm 1.00mm 5.75mm 5 3.Smm 11 2.70mm 2 1.00 mm 1.00 mm 7.25mm 6 3.Smm 12 2.40mm 3 1.00mm 1.00mm 9.00mm 7 3.5mm 12 2.00mm 4 1.00 mm 1.20mm 11.50 mm 1YPEI 5 1.00 mm 1.00mm 14.00 mm 8 3.5mm 12 2.00mm 6 1.20 mm 1.20mm 5.75mm 9 3.75mm 10 2.60mm 7 1.20 mm 1.20mm 6.75 mm 10 3.75mm 10 FLUSH 8 1.20 mm 1.20mm 8.50mm 11 4.0mm 10 2.50mm 9 1.55 mm 2.50 mm lYPE II 10 1.40 mm 1.00 mm 15.00 mm 12 4.0mm 11 2. 70mm 11 1.00 mm 0.65 mm 15.50 mm 36 Yellow; 12 White ~ BB-BSA55...... $19.95 CR-90 (48pc. Crown Assortment) ...... $36.00 Refills available Refills Available **Call for complete catalog and credit application SHOPTALK

Wes Door, CMW

STEM FITTING

itting a stem is generally a simple process, but some­ which number is the actual model number. If we are not sure, times it requires additional work, especially if the it is advisable to give our material supplier all numbers from Fstem bearing is worn or if the proper replacement the watch back so they will know which one to use. stem is not available. To fit a stem we must first select the proper one to STEM NUMBERS fit the watch. To make this selection we must know the brand From the model number it is necessary to find the name and model number. We learn this by observing the move­ stem number. This is the number that each watch company ment and noting the model number on one of the bridges, assigns to each model. Material suppliers have this information under the balance, or on the dial side of the pillar plate (under available for their use and some of these are even available the dial). Sometimes the model number may be in very small (in book form) for our use. If these are accessible they are a print on the dial. Some watches have the model number big help in ordering parts and in checking our stem assortment stamped on the watch back, in which case we must learn to see if we already have the stem. It is very important to have our stem assortments listed by these stem numbers in addition FIGURE A to the model numbers since one stem may fit several models.

MODEL NUMBERS AND "FINGER PRINTING" ,~2;:~ In older watches the model number will probably be stamped either under the balance and/or on the pillar plate. The watch brand name on the dial may not help us It. 8 ) c d]f]t\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ \\\\\\\) since each model may be used by many different companies. C.40) ~.s~L If no indentification is found then we may want to t t use the "finger print" system. Finger print is the name given J) E·2 (,90) F to the method of matching the yoke bridge, setting lever, and (.G'I) f.1 (J.36) detent from our watch movement to the pictures of these A. Length of Square-to-hub D. Shoulder parts shown in our older catalogs. If these parts match, then B. Pilot (or Pivot) E. Hub we know we have the same model. Now we look up the stem C. Square F. Thread number for this model to select the proper stem. Many models may use the same stem and we must find this proper one. FIGURE B Generally, if the model is different and the yoke bridge is different, then the stem is different, but there are (25~ exceptions. One notable one is the Fontainmelon (FF60 and FF69). The FF69 yoke bridge has an additional small curved ~A piece (a tail) which covers part of the minute wheel. Not only do these stems interchange, but also the yoke bridges inter­ I B '] C ( [Jj]~\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\W change. In fact, if you order an F F60 yoke bridge you prob­ t_(.12) t(.5~l l L ably will receive an FF69 yoke bridge. The screw hole will not be countersunk as the bridge itself is thinner but com­ D E-2 F (, C/O) pletely interchangeable and it seems to work better. At least (.71) E -1. ( J. "18) it doesn't seem to break as soon as the FF60.

A. Length of Square-to-hub D. Shoulder OVERSIZE HUBS B. Pilot (or Pivot) E. Hub C. Square F. Thread Even if we order the correct stem, it may not fit if the stem bearing (in the watch movement plates) is worn too FIGURE C much. If we notice this before ordering the stem, we can order a stem with an oversize hub. Unfortunately these are not ot..,D NEW AMOUNT NEEOEO TG available for all watches. If not available, we may need to STEM S TE/"1 REDUCE . either make a complete stem or better yet just find one that B PILOT .40 42 .02. is close enough and alter it to fit. .D SHOULDER .69 .71 .02 ALTERING STEMS TO FIT E HUE /.36 /.48 .12 By referring to our parts catalog, we will find a FR. OM ,-7 f/G-.A F /"G- .8 metric listing of all stems. By using this information we may

10 Horological Times/March 1990 find a stem with- the proper hub diameter and maybe all other measurements are correct. This is wishful thinking as we will be very lucky if al I measurements are correct. There­ fore we must be happy with a stem that requires minimal cutting to fit. Cutting a complete stem should be done only if necessary, and we will discuss this actual stem making next month. Today we are going to find a stem as close as possible and cut it to fit. If we have a stem assortment, we might find one in this assortment to come close. I prefer to find a stem with the square correct and therefore we will only need to cut the round shoulders to fit. Also the square-to-hub length is quite important. If too many corrections are to be made we might as well start with a round rod stock and make the complete stem as we will do next month. First we measure the old stem and calculate all im­ portant measurements and note them on a rough sketch drawn as shown in Figure A. Generally we are fortunate enough to have most of the stem to measure since breakage usually occurs in the middle of the hub or just the threaded end breaks off. Now we measure stems from our assortment and make our preliminary selection by first eyeballing the stems to obtain a close match, remembering we prefer correct size square and square-to-hub measurements. Let's presume our With step style tension stem has measurements as shown in Figure B. Comparing rings ... one each yellow and white in each envelope. Figures A and B we note the following corrections are needed as shown in Figure C: the pilot, the shoulder, and the hub Designed as replacement crystals for SEIKO watches. need to be reduced. You do not have to buy high priced SEIKO crystals. You can buy the SEIKO style at lower cost from G-S. The We chuck the hub of the stem in our lathe and pro­ sharp angle gives a modern look to any watch imported ceed to cut the pilot down to .40mm. Since this pilot is very form Japan, the Far East, or Switzerland, such as small and at the end of the stem, we prefer to polish this small Citizen, Orient and others. Your jobber has these new amount needed rather than cutting it down with a graver. G-S ANGLE-TITE CRYSTALS in stock. Buy an assort­ First we use a coarse stone and then finish with a fine one ment and have the right size on hand when needed. and maybe use a rouge on a wooden stick or diamantine Fit G-S crystals in your store for more profit. powder to finish. (A slender piece made by cutting down two opposite sides of a piece of pegwood works quite well for our SIZES: 15.0 mm to 35.0 mm s21 ftO purpose.) We may polish at a very high lathe speed. in 1/10 mm graduations Tozen Next, the shoulder also needs to have .02mm re­ moved. We may polish it down to size or use our graver and To SIMPLIFY CRYSTAL FITTING for SEIKO WATCHES cut it down using a low lathe speed. G-S makes exact sizes for specifc Seiko, Citizen and Orient Our hub is next to cut so we need to rechuck this watches. If you do not have the exact G-S Seiko crystal, many of these watch brands can also be fitted with G-S ring stem to expose the hub so we can cut it to fit. We see by crystals such as ET, ST, MT, ITT, AT. Write for Seiko case Figure C on our chart that we need to reduce this hub .12mm. number chart, with corresponding G-S crystal number. This seems to be a lot; however, even at low lathe speed it will not take long. We do not want to over-cut and we may need to leave this hub a little oversize if there is appreciable Insist on G-S, tefuse substitutes! stem bearing wear. By checking with our micrometer, we can r.------, be sure we are cutting equal amounts from both sides of the I Germanow-Simon Corporation 1-800-252-5335 hub. We must remember that the slot in the hub is a shoulder I Dept. 420, P.O. Box 1091 • Rochester, NY 14603 used to actuate the detent both for winding and setting. As we I Please send me: pull the stem out to set, the shoulder E-1 (Figures A and B) is D Set AT-200-201 sizes D Information on trade-in of old used, and as we push the stem back in to the wind (neutral) I (16-3/4doz.) 15.0mmto35.0mm crystal sets-small monthly position and shoulder E-2 is used. As we said, before cutting I Complete set in cabinet-$462. payments-no interest or this shoulder completely down to the 1.36mm, we should I D SetAT-175-100 Ladies' sizes carrying charges. (8-1/3 doz.) 15.0 mm to 24.9 mm D Supplement of watch names check the stem by placing it in the watch as we might want or I in G-S drawer-$186. and corresponding G-S need this oversized hub diameter to properly compensate for a I D Set AT-150-101 Men's sizes Cylinder Fancy, Flat Fancy worn stem bearing. (8-5/12doz.)25.0mmto35.0mm and "Pi' water proof crystals. I in G-S drawer-$188. D Send new supplement with We must remember it is not proper to broach out a I D Set AT-125-(Starter Set) all assortments in rotation, stem bearing to fit a stem. The watchmaker's rule is: "It is 60 sizes (5 doz.) 26.5 mm to issued since Cat. # 200. always correct to make a part to fit a watch, but never cut a I 32.5 mm in G-S drawer-$116. D I do not have# 200 Catalog. watch to fit a part." Even after saying this, there are a few I I Name------~ very rare occasions where cutting out just enough to clean up I Address ______Phone ______a bearing may be all right. Next month we will make a stem, so sharpen your I City ______State ______Zip __ gravers. I Wholesaler'sName ______L------~ March 1990/Horological Times 11 G{]@[ID@~ (¥>@@@~ (b@[ID@~

John A. Nagle

How Hard Is It?

n the past year many articles concerned with the cut, the file will just slide across the surface as if going across care and proper use of metals have appeared in our a piece of glass. trade journals, newsletters, and various other horo- A drawback in comparing hardnesses in the file test logical publications. The article could have been about Brass method is that many files in use have varying hardnesses. vs. Bronze in Bushings, The Right Steel to Use in Pivots, or To successfully use the file test, you would have to have a set The Crystallization Occurring in Steel . One thing of files with known rated Rockwell hardnesses so that you that seemed to be common in these discussions was the fre­ would have a reference. Another characteristic of a file which quent mention of a material's Rockwell hardness. As I did will cause varying results is the cut of the file. not see any explanation of the term, I assumed that this Today, files are primarily used to explore hardness was something that was common knowledge. However, it conditions such as checking for soft spots, hardness under­ turns out that this is not the case at all. Very few people really neath a soft surface, and situations in which a hardness tester know what the term describes or how it is determined. cannot be used. Material hardness may not be the most pressing issue There are many devices used in testing for hardness in the horological world, but since it is being mentioned so such as: (1) the scleroscope, used mainly in testing large frequently, I thought a simple explanation would be of in­ tool steel rolls; (2) the Brinell test, which is used primarily terest to you. in testing soft and medium hard materials; (3) the Vickers Hardness testing first became important to us when test, a more refined form of the Brinell test; and (4) the we started producing steel tools which had to last. Our tools Knoop indentor or micro-hardness tester, which is primarily had to be durable, maintain an edge or form, and we needed considered a laboratory instrument. We are concerned with the some control at producing tools which met these require­ Rockwell hardness tester. ments. Of all the methods, the Rockwell hardness tester is Various methods of heat treating were perfected over the most often used. The test is conducted by driving a pene­ the years, some requiring highly sophisticated equipment. trator into the surface of the metal being tested. It is usually The tests for hardness also followed suit as we developed used in testing hardened tool steel. This penetrator is driven more efficient methods of testing. The demand for precision into the surface by a dead weight acting through a series of products will continue to demand better and more accurate levers. Of course, the softness or hardness of the surface will methods of testing. determine how far this penetrator sinks. Instead of displaying There have been many methods of testing for hard­ the depth of penetration in thousandths or millimeters, a ness, the oldest of these being the file test. Many of us still micrometer dial gauge indicates this penetration by showing use this method of testing in our shops. It has been claimed a Rockwell number. that a skilled mechanic, relying on the feel of the file, can There are two basic types of penetrators used in arrive at accurate results comparable to the lab tests. In my testing-the diamond cone (or brale) for harder steels and the opinion, they could have been close at one time, but our hardened steel ball for softer materials. sophisticated equipment and test references are far superior There are also different Rockwell scales to corre­ to what is basically a memory in the mechanic's "feel." spond to the materials being tested. An example would be There is a numbered system in the file test wherein hardened tool steel tested with the 120 degree diamond cone reference is made anywhere from glass hard to quite soft. under a dead weight load of 150 kilograms. This would fall As a lot of our work isn't so demanding, we often use the file under the Rockwell C hardness scale. test in its basic form. Softer steels are tested with a 1/16" diameter hard­ When heat treating, you will first need to bring the ened steel ball under a dead weight load of 100 kilograms and steel to a glass-hard condition. Steel, heated to a bright, assigned B designations or a Rockwell B hardness rating. cherry red and quickly quenched, should give you a glass-hard Other situations such as different sized penetrators, finish. To prevent damage to rhe file, lightly draw it across varying loads, and the material being tested will call for other the surface of the steel. If it is glass hard, not being able to Rockwell classifications. There are also Rockwell superficial

12 Horological Times/March 1990 hardness tests used when measuring the hardness of thin or case hardened metals. The procedures are the same but lighter New! driving loads and smaller penetrators are used. I'll give you some examples to demonstrate some relationships between Rockwell hardness numbers and type of material. Rockwell C45/55 would be in the range of a spring temper. Rockwell C-65 would be in the range of file hardness. Don't confuse hardness with toughness! There are other tests that are conducted to determine the toughness • Replaces high priced genuine crystals. or breaking point of steel. • For specific Seiko and other watches. • Beautifully finished polished edges, Now that we understand how the Rockwell test is 1 mm thin (.040"). conducted and ratings assigned, what do we do with it? • No longer necessary to grind For the most part, nothing. In the world of routine clock glass blanks. • Fit G-S crystals in your own restoration it isn't really that important. When, if ever, is it store for more profit. Your useful? O.K.! Say you might have to make a tool or die wholesaler has them in stock. and the situation demands a precise, durable tool. You have determined that the finished tool must have a certain Rock­ "'e;=:~, well hardness if it is to give a satisfactory performance. You Germanow-Simon Corporation 1-800-252-5335 can check that procedures have been followed by testing the Dept. 420, P.O. Box 1091 • Rochester, NY 14603 Please send me: finished tool's hardness. If you don't get the desired result, D Set F-1: 36 different sizes D Information on trade-in of old you can then begin looking for the error. in drawer-$125. crystal sets· small monthly Something might have gone wrong in the hardening D Set F-2: 36 different sizes payments· no interest or process. Maybe the wrong steel had been used. Whatever in drawer-$125. carrying charge. D Set F-3: 36 different sizes in D Send new supplement #10 with happened, by testing for hardness you have been able to drawer-$125. all assortments in rotation, determine that something isn't right. In the world of pro­ D SetF-108:9dozen(F-1,F-2,F-3 issued since Cat. #200 duction, this can be very important. If a punch is made with in rotation) in cabinet-$402. D I do not have #200 Catalog. 1,000 planned punchings in mind and only produces 300 to Store ______400, the company is going to lose money-not a result that Address ______Phone ______they would be happy with! City ______State ____ Zip __ So, there you have it. Wasn't too hard, was it? Wholesaler's Name ______L------~

1LABLE "'""' AMERICAN BUSHING SYSTEM This system uses only the finest hard brass, and ·lasts longer than the more expensive foreign products.

BUY ONLY WHAT YOU NEED! Now have a wide selection of sizes Pkg. of 20 Quantity price without high inventory. Buy 1 ...... $3.50 ea You may assort our convenient 5 or more ...... 3.00 ea 1 O or more ...... 2.85 ea packages of 20 pieces per size to qualify for the best price. Assortments ...... $15.00 ea (pkg. of 100 -1 O sizes) Call or write for a complete listing of sizes and assortments available Standard reamers for the KWM Bushing tool, or conversion reamers for the Bergeon Bushing tool. D~ TWIN CITY SUPPLY l~I 612/545-2725 WATS +: 800/328-6009 FAX +: 612/545-4 715 TWIN CO 6150 Wayzata Blvd., Minneapolis, MN 55416

March 1990/Horological Times 13 ULLETIN OARD

Do you have information regarding our requests? Do you need information? Write to: Bulletin Board, Horological Times, 3700 Harrison Ave., P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati; OH 45211.

A. NEW REQUESTS

JUNGHANS SPARE PARTS Several of the sources who formerly handled spare parts for Junghans clocks and watches have disappeared. A member in Denver, CO specifically is looking for spare parts for Junghans J30E clocks.

CALVIN KLEIN WATCHES Stan McMahan, Greenville, SC is seeking the firm who can service and/or supply spare parts and technical information for Calvin Klein watches. We fail to find the distributor for these watches in our files.

IMPERIAL WESTMINSTER CHIME CLOCK Bill Callaway, Deerbrook, WI is seeking service information for an Imperial Westminster chime clock #500. It is a miniature grandfather pendulum clock with the name C.J. Hug Co ., Inc. of Highland, IL on it.

BOLEY LATHE REPAIR Paul Jahnke, Monroe, CT is looking for someone in the US BANK NOTES United States who repairs Boley lathes.

IC DETECTOR C.E. MARSHALL/PEERLESS CLEANING MACHINE e COMPACT AND EASY TO USE! Michael Judy, Clermont, FL wants to rebuild a Peerless e IDEAL FOR EVERY PERSON WHO cleaning machine by C.E. Marshall Company. He is seeking HANDLES MONEY! a schematic diagram of the machine which he describes as having four 3~ inch square jars and one hole for a heater. SAVE$13.00! No model number is supplied. REGULAR $49.95 s3595 NOW ONLY ANGELUS CHRONODATO WATCH Delores Butler, Price, TX is seeking service and spare Easy to operate. Simply press and hold the parts information for an Angelus Chronodato watch. activating button on the face of the bill. Markings on the watch are 254 and 655820. Evaco S.A., Run the sensor head over the dark metallic Neuchatel, Switzerland advises that they purchased the ink on the front of the currency. As the name "Angelus" but that the Angelus firm that made magnet sensor detects metallic particles in watches and clocks has been out of business for more than the ink of the US bills, it thus tells IO years. counterfeit money from the real thing! BALANCE COCK MARKINGS OFFER GOOD THRU MARCH 31, 1 990. The 3-letter marking that formerly appeared on imported watches was in fact a code to identify the importer. Some material catalogs have identified some of these marks such as : LXW for Longines, HXW for Helbros, etc. Many watch­ makers have compiled their own lists of these marks from personal observation over the years. AWi would like to compile as complete a list of these markings as is possible. We can do this if individuals will share whatever informa­ tion they might have with us.

NOISY STRIKING MECHANISM A Long Beach, CA member seeks advice as to how to deal

14 Horological Times/March 1990 with the noise an older American clock makes while strik­ ing, even after he has rebushed bearing and tightened the Distributor of Watch fly. Batteries, HAMILTON ELECTRIC WATCHES Lee Tessina, Los Angeles, CA is trying to locate someone Manufacturer of who still repairs the Hamilton 500 and 505 watches. Smiles B. RESPONSES Low, low prices are not the only reason why our customers are wearing smiles. Swiss made Renata Other than responses we have already reported on, we have batteries and same day shipping on orders received no new responses to report this month. before 4:00 p.m. have something to do with it, too. If you would like to make your life a little happier, then C. ITEMS STILL NEEDED give us a call. We'll make a smile just for you! LE BARON WATCHES r------, Jim Stanley, Fort Wayne, IN would like to know who is I NOTICE: I the US agent and distributor for LeBaron watches. We fail :These are our regular prices,: to find this information in our files. : not special prices! : BREITLING GENEVE NAVITIMER'trl 78 L------~ Gordon McDougal, Peoria, AZ seeks a service manual for a watch which he identifies as Breitling Geneve Navitimer 317 ...... $0.65 calibre 178. AWi has not been successful in obtaining this information from the US agent for Breitling in Norwalk, 31.9 ...... 0.45 CT. We would appreciate receiving service information so 321 ...... 0.41 we can copy it for Mr. McDougal and for our files. We will return your copy to you. 362 ...... 0.26 364 ...... 0.2~ REMOVAL OF A ROTATING CHRONOGRAPH BEZEL 37D ...... 0.39 Another request Gordon McDougal has is for directions on how to remove the rotating bezel from a chronograph 371...... 0.33 watch. 377 ...... 0.34 TURTLE JUBILEE CHRONOMETER 379 ...... 0.4:1 VACUMATIC 36 Tom Payne, Seattle, WA has a watch he describes as a 389 ...... 0.38 Turtle Jubilee Chronometer Vacumatic 36. Mr. Payne in­ 391 ...... 0.36 dicates that this watch is held together by a vacuum. He needs a crystal for it and seeks someone who can supply 392 ...... 0.24 and install it; preferably the US agent or service repre­ sentative. 395 ...... 0.36 NOISY MUSIC BOX 396 ...... 0.33 Jim Campbell of Lowell, NC has a couple of music boxes 397 ...... 0.3~ which the customer says makes too much noise. Jim replaced the music movements but the new ones were To place an order, or to request a just as noisy. They sound like the fan wheels are making humming sounds. Can anyone suggest a solution? complete battery price list, call us toll-free at 'LOL WATCH CRYSTAL CATALOG Chip Colby, Beaverton, OR, is seeking a copy of a catalog (800) 634-1070. for 'LOL Watch Crystals. If you can supply, drop us a note. We will photocopy the first one we get, keep one copy for our files, send one to Chip Colby, and return yours to you.

L.B. TATE - SUPPLIERS OF WATCHMAKER MATERIALS Sheldon Warren, Ft. Myers, FL, used to do business with SUPPLIES a watchmaker supply firm known as L.B. Tate. They were from somewhere in the Carolinas. Sheldon would like to 425 Livingston Street, Suite #5 know if the firm still exists, or can their successor be Norwood, NJ 07648 identified?

March 1990/Horological Times 15 ROCK QUARRY

Fred S. Burckhardt

JUST ONE OF THOSE DAYS

t hasn't been one of my best days. If everything later and has called every day. This time I told him the system wouldn't come along at the same time it would be lug cam was shot and it was back-ordered, so it would be an­ a lot better, but when things start going downhill at other month or so before it would be ready. the beginning and the light at the end of the tunnel turns out The cleaning machine went out so I had to use the to be a freight train, it gives you the feeling that somebody old one that sounded like a thrashing machine. If this wasn't up there is frowning on you. bad enough, the timing machine started to only pick up the It all started when a woman called before opening ticks and not the tocks. (That's what I get for buying it at time, and wanted to know if I could come to her house and half price.) fix her grandfather clock. It had stopped, so her husband I figured it was time to have a nice cup of hot tea, so squirted a can of WD-40 all over the wheels, and when that I put the kettle on to boil and you might know . .. that sucker didn't help he used some 3-in-1 oil. She knew for sure that didn't even whistle. nothing serious was wrong with the clock except it would A customer came in for a battery. It was one of those just need some slight adjustment. I asked her how long it had watches that has about 30 screws holding the case together. been since the clock was serviced, and she said they received When I put the new battery in, I checked to make sure it was it as a wedding present 25 years ago-and nothing has been running. After replacing all the screws, I turned it over only done to it so it's just like new. I got rid of her in a hurry when to see that the sun of a gun had stopped. I gave the guy 10 I told her I would put her name on the list, but it would prob­ bucks to take it somewhere else. ably be about a year or so before I could get to her. The day was more than half over and so far I had Next, a fellow called to see if his watch was ready. I made ziltch. In fact, I was 10 bucks in the hole. But then told this joker when he left it that it would be at least three things started to look up. The next three customers were real weeks before I could have it ready. He started calling four days money makers for me. The first customer needed the minute hand put back on an old watch that went out of production 40 years ago. Next was a woman who brought in a watch band she bought somewhere else and asked if I would put it on and adjust it CAREERS for the 90's for her-no charge, of course. If you see a woman walking around with a twist-a-flex hanging from her right nostril, - and beyond you'll know where she's been. The third customer was another winner. He wanted Watchmaking Engraving me to check his watch battery. I asked if he wanted me to replace it if it was bad. He only wanted it chec_ked because if Clock Repair Jewelry it was bad he would buy one at the Radio Shack and put it in himself. Well, later I started to put together some watches I GEM CITY COLLEGE had cleaned. When I went to wind the first one the mainspring 700 State Street Quincy, IL 62301 217·222-0391 broke. The second one had a missing pallet jewel that came FINANCIAL AID GRANTS, LOANS out during the cleaning. On the next one I flipped the upper PLACEMENT ASSISTANCE FOR GRADUATES shock spring which took me an hour and a half to find (at

16 Horological Times/March 1990 least I thought I had found it but it turned out to be one I had lost about six months ago). I came to the conclusion that I'd better stop while I was ahead! As I was getting ready to close, this ying-yang came in for a battery. He had his little boy with him who was really a pain, if you know what I mean. His watch was one of those digital jobs with buttons all over the place. I used up four bat­ teries just trying to set the thing. He didn't know how to set it because he lost the instructions. After what seemed like an Wholesale - Jewe(er &;Watchmaker·SyppUes hour, the kid said he would set it for me if I gave him a dollar. 456 West CalumbUs Drive I said, "Look, kid, it takes years of experience to learn how to Tampa; FlOriQa - ~ . :;:: work on these things and you're too young to know anything about this electronical stuff." The boy just smiled and I went back to pushing but­ @ MINERAL GLASS @ tons. Beads of sweat were starting to form on my brow. I could see the kid out of the corner of my eye. He was smirk­ CRYSTAL ASSORTMENT ing as only a wiseacre little kid can smirk. Finally I said, "Okay, let's see how smart you are," and started to hand him the watch. "Oh, no!" he said. "I offered to do it for a dollar but now it'll cost you FI VE dollars!" The kid had me and he knew it. We haggled back and forth and then came to a settlement. It took him about two minutes to set the watch. I figure I came out okay. It only cost me three dollars, two jars of jewelry cleaner, an extra battery for his watch, and a leather strap for his mother's. Like I said before, this hasn't been one of my better All in Marked Drawers days. /" ..~ · ·· ·· .. ·.. .::-:-..._ ,;-;,_...~-- .•. -· · ···· ·.::~ . ( ...· ·--- ·· · -~ v · -~ ~~~:# ~~ RETIRE THOSE OUTDATED Startup cost only $1.25 each RULERS AND GAUGES ••• c~Ef'.l~ ., ~t:::~WA;~~~vAIW3~ The DIGIMATIC Refills $19.95 per dozen Assorted CALIPER is here! $6.00per1/4 dozen each number $2.25 each • 5 digit LCD display 8>pecify 8>iZes in MM When Orderifl8 • Rugged stainless steel construction New Low Price !!! • Precision measuring from .01 MM to 153MM CLASPS or .0005" to 6.000" • Ideal for measuring $3.SO each stones, findings, bezels, watch materials and Available in sizes 5, 4 much more. 7, 8, 10, and 15mm ORDER TODAY Model JGA-500 Only $122.95

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March 1990/Horological Times 17 ~ILTTARY TI~E

Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC, FAWI

Figure 2. Movement view of COMP ARING WATCH - WAL THAM Waltham's Model No. 1617-C- 12 comparing watch. Often, Model No. 1617-C-l 2 Waltham's grade/model num­ 16 size, 1942, 17 jewels. bers identify certain character­ (Figures 1 and 2) istics about the watch. Here, the first two digits tell us that The first Waltham comparing watch was made the watch is 16 size; second in 1942 in accordance with Navy specifica­ two, it has 17 jewels; C, it's a comparing watch; and 12, it tion l 8W3. The newly designed movement has a 12-hour dial. was very similar to their popular Vanguard and Crescent Street model pocket watches of years past. The design of the bridges was slightly altered, the steel barrel was replaced with a running barrel, a monometallic bal­ ance was used in lieu of a cut bimetallic balance, and friction jewels were introduced.

i-1gure ;$. American 18 size full plate, 1883 model, 15-jewel, open face pocket watch. Movement No. 15,451,109. This watch was used by the U.S. Navy as a comparing watch until 1935. Figure 1. Waltham comparing watch, Model No. 1617-C-12. Housed in At that time it was issued to the U.S. Coast & Geodetic Survey as Num­ plain base metal case with a knurled screw back and bezel. ber 112, and is so engraved. Ca. 1907.

18 Horological Times/March 1990 By using friction jewels, it was very easy for Waltham to readily make a production run of 9-, 15-, 17-, 21-, or 22-jewel watches with­ out altering their production setup or sched­ ule. Thus, the Vanguard and Crescent Street Battery Tester or Battery Cabinet became basic models for Waltham's 16 size . ~.~ · ~ ordnance and naval pocket size watches. - ~~~~ ; The nickel-silver movement ran for 36 ____---- ,1 ; hours on one winding of the mainspring. The ---- ...... _._, v train bridge was stamped showing the num­ ...... ~~ ...... ;~ , ---,.· d• ~ ber of jewels, the manufacturer's name and -:--;-~~ , model number, and number of adjustments. ""'.'---~ , ----- .;-.:._. ~ j The manufacturer's movement or serial num­ -~~...:_ 1 ber was stamped on the pillar plate near the balance assembly. The was of the monometallic type with a Breguet type With The Purchase Of 200 Or More "Cone!" hairspring. Cone! was the name of i. WATCH/ Waltham's patented alloy self-compensating •EVEREAD'l CALCULATOR hairspring. It was also rust-resistant and not ~ BATTERIES affected by ordinary magnetic fields. The open-faced movement was stem­ wound and set and was fitted with a second J§welers setting mechanism which allowed the watch to be set to the exact second of a master time Supply, Inc. 612-546-3800 FAX 612-591-0679 source. MN: 800-742-0508 Nat: 800-328-0614 (Please turn to next page) P 0 Box 1404. Minneapolis, Minnesota 55440 (Formerly a Division of Jewelmont Corporation)

AotOtnaitiC Infrasonic watcH cleaner. Ultrasonic watch cleaner. Au1omatic and programmable. Affordably pi!Oed, dependable to Economical to operate. Vibrasonlc watch cleaner. operate.solidly built. Perfect for the small shop. Deluxe - top of the. line. For more lntormation~or VIBROGRAF U.S.A. CORP. the name of your local 504 Cherry Lane, Floral Park, NY 11001 distributor contact: Tel: (516) 437-8700 Fax: (516) 437-8708

March 1990/Horological Times 19 MILITARY TIME The hour orbit of the white metal or (Continued from previous page) porcelain dial was divided into minutes and numbered every 5 minutes to indicate hours from 1 to 12, with the 6 omitted. The sec­ onds dial orbit was divided into seconds, with numerals showing each 10-second graduation. The spade-type hands were tempered to a rich dark blue color. The movement was housed in a plain base metal case with a knurled screw back and bezel and an inside snap dust cover. The case back was engraved with the manufacturer's name and " U.S. NAVY, BuShips @ , Serial #, 1942," the year being the year that the contract was let.

Figure 4. Movement view of the American Waltham Watch Company com­ paring watch shown in Figure 3 . The movement is gilded, 15 jewels, fitted with a safety pinion and a cut expansion balance with a patent Breguet blued steel hairspring. Figure 6. Hampden comparing watch, special railroad model, 18 size, 21 jewels (ruby and sapphire jewels in solid gold setting) , full plate, movement No. 2,562,531, adj. to temperature and five positions, screw back and bez­ el, Dueber silverine case, Ca. 1903. Back engraved U.S.C.G., No . 217. Figure 5. Waltham Colonial model 1924, grade 209, 12 size, 9-jewel pocket watch. Movement No. 30,487,761. Made in April 1940 and used as a comparing watch by the U.S. Coast Guard during the early part of World War 11. At the be­ ginning of the war, the need for timepieces was so critical that any watch or chronometer that kept rea­ sonable time was pressed into service.

Figure 7. Waltham comparing watch, 1892 model, grade A.T.&Co., 18 size, 17 jewels, full plate nickel movement. Movement No. 10,092, 748, lever set, screw back and bezel ore-silver case, adj. to temperature and three positions, Ca. 1901. Back engraved U.S.C.G .. No. 96.

20 Horological Times/March 1990 Figures 3, 4, and 5 show two other mod­ els of Waltham watches that were used as comparing watches well before World War II. Heretofore, various manufacturer's pocket Tired of ''SLOW'' watches, domestic and foreign, were pur­ chased by the Navy and Coast Guard and used as comparing watches. Such watches bore the Material Houses? names of Dueber-Hampden, Elgin, Hamilton, Howard, Illinois, Rockford, South Bend, and CALL Waltham (Figures 6 and 7). Foreign makers were Agassiz, Karussel, LeRoy & Co., Longines, and Nardin. When I entered my apprenticeship at the Naval Observatory in the early part of CONOJ!EB ~ 01/AYLE 1940, many of the above watches were be­ ing repaired and issued to the fleet. Once our watch factories got into war production and 1-800-448-7786 new timepieces became available; these watch­ NEW YORK STATE (212) 840-1606 es were withdrawn from service. At the con­ clusion of the war, they were declared surplus and turned over to the War Surplus Admin­ SUPER FAST SERVICE istration for disposal. TO ANYWHERE!!

ROLEX MATERIAL OUR SPECIAL TY

I want to buy displays, boxes, catalogs, parts, dials, whole or partial movements and anything else pertaining to Patek Philippe.

Also needed: Boxes for Rolex, Vacheron & Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Movado, Le Coultre, Tiffany, Cartier & Piaget - any age, any condition.

1920-1940 boxes for Gruen, Hamilton, Bulova, or other early wristwatch boxes-· mens only for these more common companies.

Always needing movements by Patek Philippe, Piaget, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron & Constantin, Rolex, European Watch & Clock Co., Cartier, especially complicated movements by these companies . .--~~~~~~~~~~~· CHARLES CLEVES WANTED - Patek Philippe Member: AWI, N AWCC moonphase calendar. This 319 FAIRFIELD A VE. one pictured: 1969 model, BELLEVUE, KY 41073 paying $15,000 and up. 1 (606) 491-0354

March 1990/Horologi,cal Times 21 r>ench Tip&

Joe Crooks TYPEWRITER TOOLS FOR THE CLOCKMAKER

ome of us guys who completed watch and clockmak­ with epoxies; the appliance stores supply paint strippers ta er training at one of the many schools teaching the soften up the goop holding in mineral crystals; aircraft cable is Strade under the GI Bill remember that Uncle Sam great for weight-driven clocks . .. and the list goes on. also bought us a parcel of tools to get started with. We thought Now Cy Felheimer from Westmont, NJ suggests that we were set for life and would never have to buy another thing. clock repairers take a look at some of the tools used by type­ Little did we imagine that in 1990 we would be borrowing writer repairers. They look awfully good to me, Cy, and if any ideas from other professions. Now in 1990 we looked to the of our people have trouble finding a supplier, a request to dentist and found that one of his compounds was just great AW/ Central along with a self-addressed, stamped envelope for retrofitting quartz movements. The hobby stores have will bring them a list of suppliers. clear plastics and metal tubing; the hardware stores supply us

~ol )

NO. 14 KM SPRING CLIP PUSHER Holds spring clips to install in typewriters and adding machines. 1/8" x 8" tapered on one end.

NO. 42 LINK BENDER For bending links, levers, etc. (8" long, 5/16" diameter, 1 /16" slot.)

NO. 392 CURVED TIP BENDER Chrome plated 7-1 /8" long. Slot width .350". Slot depth .069". Bend angle 150 degrees.

NO. 152 TYPEBAR TWISTER (ROY AL) For bending or twisting typebars to bring into proper posi­ tion. 1/16" slot.

NO. 44 RIBBON VIBRATOR ARM BENDERS (ROYAL) Used in pairs for adjusting ribbon vibrator arm, 5%" long. NO. 390 FORMING TOOL Chrome plated 9Y." long. Slot width .348". Slot depth .056".

NO. 391 STRAIGHT TIP BENDER Chrome plated, 7Y." long. Slot width .343". Slot depth NO. 34 KM . 063. Chrome plated 7%" long. Slot width .381 " . Slot depth .064". Bend angle 150 degrees.

22 Horological Times/March 1990 /' J:'l· NO 93.SEGMENT PICK For cleaning typebar slots in segments. Kin1r11

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* ASSORTMENT #MG070 - * ASSORTMENT # MG103 - Contains 1 each of most Sizes from 25. 7 mm to popular sizes from 18.0 to 31.9 mm for each 1/10th r; 31.9 mm. TOTAL OF 70 mm. 3 pieces of each size in. PCS ...•...... $87.50 TOTAL 189 PCS .. $236.25 KEEPER SETTERS Wooden-handled holder with tweezer for clips, * ASSORTMENT #MG101 - * ASSORTMENT #MG104 - for use on Adler machines Complete sizes from 18 mm Complete sizes from 18 mm to 31.9 mm for each, 1/10th to 31.9 mm for each 1/10th mm. TOTAL OF ,140 PCS mm. 3 pieces of each size in . • ...... $175.00 TOTAL 420 PCS .. $415.80 (o o , ~ FREE 3 DOZ. SAFETY CHAINS NO. 1022 CLIP SETTER (2 DZ. YELLOW, 1 DZ. WHITE) SEIKO - PULSAR STYLE. AND FREE SHIPPING WITH PURCHASE OF ANY ASSORTMENT. ~JEEf :ii:l:EEI:\l:E:£§!!1E§S§ SEND YOUR TIPS TO: Jingle Joe, AWi Central, MG101, MG103, MG104 REGULAR $27.00 VALUE 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. THE 25 MOST POPULAR QUARTZ MOVEMENT MINERAL GLASS CRYSTALS SALE 18.0 19.0 19.5 20.0 20.5 21.0 22.0 23.0 FE 6320 ...... $6.75 23.5 24.0 24.5 25.0 FE 6820 ...... $8.75 25.5 26.0 26.5 27.0 FE 5120 ...... $9.75 27.5 28.0 28.2 28.5 "SERVICE!" SUB FOR HARLEY 3572 29.0 29.2 29.5 30.0 30.5 PUW 500 ...... $8.95

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March 1990/Horological Times 23 Clock Pivot Restoration

PART2

by John Plewes

©1990. All rights reserved by the author.

PLEWES CHUCK

s mentioned in Part 1, the arbor of Figure 1 and (2) The arbor must be held in as in (1) whilst the chuck A arbors of similar configuration pose a very old and grasps it at (B), by reaching over the relatively large awkward horological engineering problem when it is necessary gear (D), as shown by the arrows in Figure 1. to machine or renew the pivot at the C end of the arbor. (3) The tailstock center must be removed, leaving the Part 1 of this article showed how to proceed when the A end arbor firmly held on the centerline with the (C) of the arbor can be chucked, but when it cannot be so grasped pivot totally accessible. the problem becomes much more difficult. The only way I (4) The chuck must be able to grasp the tapered, out-of­ have seen is to push the gear into a custom-turned spot face round, irregular arbors commonly found in old in a hardwood face plate and to proceed as given previously longcase clocks. in Part 1. This arrangement is not too sound mechanically. A (5) As arbors vary in length, the section grasped must Jacot tool is no help, for we are not talking about polishing not be more than half an inch long. or burnishing which, incidentally, is no guarantee of round­ ness anyway. Figure 2 Whenever I have posed the problem over the years, no one has had a really workable solution or heard of any rig for doing it. Basically, if the C pivot is to be machined, etc. with the same ease as the A pivot, it is essential to grasp the arbor at B in order to obtain the requisite rigidity. When designing a device to solve this age-old problem, the following points should also be considered. (1) The arbor must be mounted along the centerline of the lathe, say between female centers.

Figure 1

LATHE B c LAT HE HEAD­ TA IL­ STOCK STOCK

Figure 3

D

24 Horological Times/March 1990 (6) The chuck must be rotationally balanced when fitted to a self-centering 3-jaw lathe chuck. QUARTZ WATCH (7) The whole device must be easy to set up. (8) It must be feasible to make the device on the average bench lathe, using commonly available materials MOVEMENT& and reasonable care and tolerances. (9) The device must be durable and easy to service. SPECIALS! ~ Collection of quartz watch movements at special low Centerline positioning is mandatory, and a con­ prices. Check this list for your retrofitting needs- at these ventional scroll-type, self-centering device of adequate rigidity economical prices it's less expensive to replace the would be difficult to make to meet points 4 and 5. In view of complete movement than repair the old one! this, the principle of points 1, 2 and 3 seems more promising. 149218- ESA 202.001- 4 x 8 3/4L (2 hand)­ As no such critter seems to have been born over some six $24.50 centuries of horological endeavor, it was necessary to invent __146020- Miyota 2030-2035- 6 3/4 x 8 (3 hand)­ one. After batting the idea back and forth in my head for $7.95 18 months or so, light finally dawned on a workable design: 146043- 4 GB Orient- 6 3/4 x SL (3 hand)­ THE PLEWES CHUCK. $6.95 The finished chuck is shown in Figure 2 where it is 146040- ESA 556.115- 7 3/4L Round (3 hand) grasped by the inside jaws of the 4-inch, self-centering chuck w/date- $12.50 of an English Myford ML7 lathe. This lathe has a no. 2 Morse 146037- ESA 935.112- 8 3/4L Round (3 hand) taper in the headstock; however, other tapers in other lathes w/date- $12.50 generally permit female centering arrangements which are 146039- ESA 965.312-313-10 1/2L Round (3 just as good. As the arbor is held by its ends between a female hand) w/date- $11.50 center in the headstock and another in the tailstock, the accuracy of these ends is important. If the C end pivot of the 149295- Harley 3775-10 1/2L Round (3 hand) arbor in Figure 1 is bent as well as otherwise useless, it must w/date- $12.50 be either straightened temporarily or removed altogether and 146038- ESA 555.115- 11 1/2L Round (3 hand) the end of the arbor squared off prior to its insertion in the w/date- $12.50 tailstock center. The complete headstock center shaft is 149283- Ricoh 780- 11 1/2L Round (3 hand) shown in Figure 3, its female center being at its free end. w/date- $13.50 A good quality brass-bushed radio knob (not shown) will Please write for our updated and expanded facilitate operations when fitted to the clamp end of the shaft. watch movement list. The tailstock's female center can be made from two inches of 1/4" or 3/16" diameter drill rod with centers of different sizes in each end. Both centers should be hardened SAVE and tempered to a light straw.

CONSTRUCTION OF THE CHUCK $4.00! The assembly drawing of the chuck is shown in Figure 4 where the piece part figure numbers are given in the balloons. The accommodating action of the hemispherical QUARTZ MOVEMENT ADAPTOR RINGS 24 assorted plastic adaptor rings- perfect for retrofitting quartz movements to old cases or using as regular rings. Ladies and gents sizes- 5L to 11 1/2L. Some have larger Figure 4 ~-----{ 7 side areas for adapting to odd cases. Plastic trims easily for tight fits. Regular price $11.50- SPECIAL PRICE ~-- E . 2PL $7.50-you save $4.001 01-7985C ...... •...•...... $7 .50 S. (t?aiJ),~lnc. Worldwide Distributors to Horolog1Sts '~\I~/ 234 Commerce Place, P.O. Box 21208 Greensboro, N.C., 27420, U.S.A. Phone (919) 275-0462 FAX Number 1-800-537-4513

March 1990/Horologi.cal Times 25 jaws obviates the need for unduly tight tolerances, but ac­ Figure 8 depicts the clamp bars which are made curacy is important just the same and considerable care must from 0.5'' square stock. All bumps and burrs must be removed be taken when making the various parts. and all surfaces must be flat and true. First, accurately align The body of the chuck, a 4-inch diameter cylinder the bars and mark them out. Then clamp them 0.25" apart of cold rolled mild steel, is shown in Figure 5. Its ID of 3.75" by means of a 0.25" x 0.50" steel spacer to enable the recesses will easily accommodate the largest clock gears commonly G to be cut. Use a 0.50" drill on the centerline of the spacer. found. Now drill the holes H and J. This is best done separately as The two straps which hold the clamp bars are shown accuracy is essential here. Some runout might occur if the bars in Figure 6. They are made of 0.25" x 0.50" cold rolled mild were clamped together for drilling; however, the upper block steel stock. can be used as a guide for tapping the lower one. Figure 7 shows two studs which are screwed in by The bars are now mounted together and centered in hand until they project 0.3 2" from the cylinder end. The nuts the lathe's 4-jaw chuck so that the ends can be machined down are then tightened up at this setting. to 0.25 ". Parallelism and uniform thickness are more im­ portant than an exact 0.25", so a painstaking setup is essential. Set up a clamp bar accurately in the 4-jaw chuck Figure 5 and machine out the central conical jaw recess K and the cen­ tral hole L. Assuming that the back surface of the first bar to be machined abuts jaws no. 3 and 4 of the 4-jaw lathe

Figure 8

1• 500 J____

0 •03 HO!..E, 6 PL 0·75 DEEP HOLE NO 18 I RAO. 4 PL HO L E , NO, 18 TAPPED 6-32 ON I f DRILL 2 PL.- L DRILL 2 PL. - H OF WA L L THICKNESS -~

UPPER BAR

MAK E I OF C R. ST EE L

0 25 LOWER BAR STOCK

HOLE, TAPPED 1 r- 2•0 0 O.D. 8-32 2PL-J

. --·1· I/ ,. -· 4·250 I ' I I ---~ : ~ :: s .: a : ...._ _ _ _ I I j I ' 1·500 2·00 -l i '°·63 DIA,

G, H.J, K,L - SEE TEXT MAKE I OF EACH,OF 2 SCREWS REOD. e-32x. 1·25 C. R. STEEL STOCK S.S. PANHEAD WITH WASHERS

/ ~

HOLE, 2 PL MAKE 2 , OF CR STE EL Figure 9 8-32 CL [ 4 SCREWS REQ°D.- 8-32< 1·00 S.S N_~ :_ ~~ PANHEAD WITH WASHERS Figure 7 -___L_ -,- c=J ___L 0·025 0·060 I rr-n ----r 0·020 T 11 11 I 11

NUT - SEE TEXT 0-88 II ii

II 11 II 11

ti II MAKE. 2, FROM

8-32 HIGH GRADE MAKE 2, OF TOOL STEEL- HARDEN M, N - SEE TEXT ANO TEMPER TO A LIGHT STRAW lLJJ STEEL OR S.S. SCREWS SEE FIG 4

26 Horological Times/March 1990 chuck, then loosen only jaws no. 1 and 2 to remove the bar. Figure 10 1his will leave jaws no. 3 and 4 as a reference for the back of the second bar, thus facilitating setup and ensuring that the recesses are equidistant from the backs of both clamp bars. The dimensions given allow the hemispherical jaws to swivel a little over 6 degrees from the centerline. Figure 9 shows the hemispherical jaws with their three grooves which grip the clock arbor. Mount a few inches of 0.50" diameter drill rod in the lathe, face both ends smooth­ 0 206 NOM 0 D -A FIRM 4-40 S 5 STUD IN A 0·058 FIT FOR HEM!SPERlCAL ly, and drill holes M and N. The three grooves are best made TAPPED HOLE 0-37 DP. o:Os4"' JAWS SFE f IG 9 by using a dividing head, a fly cutter, and a milling arbor; but should some of these be unavailable, there are other ways of cutting such grooves and slots on the lathe. MAKE I, OF M I LD STEEL One idea is to use a fly cutter set in the middle of a I-inch rod which is held in the lathe chuck and steadied by a male tailstock center. A small jig, made of 0.5'' CR mild or 0.37" high speed lathe tool. The tool must be undercut steel would then hold the stubs of the jaws-to-be on the with its edge stoned smooth. No light should show when the cross slide. Protractor-drawn lines, scribed at 60 degrees finished tool is held against a smooth 0.50" diameter metal from the centerline of the cross slide would serve to hold the rod. stubs reasonably accurately. The shallowest grooves (0.050" Chuck the mandrel and screw onto it one of the jaws. wide) would be cut first and then rotated to the 60 degree Using a sharp tool and a light cut, gently turn down the jaw mark, and so on. Other methods may suggest themselves, to its approximate shape and its correct height of 0.27". but any method which avoids using a dividing head and a Reduce the lathe speed to about 35 RPM and with a light cut milling arbor admittedly requires ingenuity and more time use the form tool to finish up. Smooth the resultant hemis­ and work in setting it up. After cutting the grooves, cut the pherical jaw down to a good finish with emery paper and ends off the drill rod leaving them 0.28" to 0.29" long, and repeat the whole process for the second jaw. Harden both then make the mandrel of Figure 10. jaws and polish them again on the mandrel and then temper Now carefully grind a form tool to conform to a them to a light straw. quarter section of a 0.50" diameter round rod, using a 0.31" We will continue with this subject next month. 'UCIB MAKE US YOUR HEADQUARTERS- FOR e YOUR FRIENDLY SUPPLY HOUSE • Fast shipment on (EVEREADY~ All EVEREADY® Watch, Calculator, and WORLD'S LEADING Clock Batteries Available WATCH BATTERY e Call for FREE Catalogs and Prices

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March 1990/Horological Times 27 WATCHE~

David A Christianson, CMW, CMBHI

A DIEBOLD VAULT TIMELOCK

s we continue our sojourn into the world of safe and business has been relegated to a minor service that it provides vault timelocks, we'll stop now and look at a rela­ its safe and vault-using customers. The timelocks, which were A tively new timelock movement by Diebold Safe and the foundation of this company, became less important to Lock Comapny (Figure 1). The Diebold Company is alive and safe and vault security than it was in the past, yet it is still well and operating out of Canton, Ohio, its ancestral home. an integral part combined with the newer electronic premises But it, like Mosler, is concentrating on electronic perimeter security systems used today. protection; and just like Mosler, the timelock portion of its The particular timelock movement that we're looking

Figure 1. A Diebold timelock movement, c. 1950. Figure 2. Diebold movement with dial removed.

28 Horological Times/March 1990 at in this article came across my bench with several problems, to half or more of its original diameter, then the pivot will all related to age and neglect. But, first of all, Jet's look at the need to be replaced. movement itself (Figures 2 through 6). This movement is built like a small clock movement with a platform escapement (Figure 6), utilizing a six-wheel train powering an 18,000 beats per hour temperature com­ pensated balance wheel. As with the Mosler movement (and any other horo­ • logical movement, for that matter) disassembly begins with the release of mainspring power. The double ratchet system (two clicks on the ratchet wheel [Figure 5]) prevents the usual release of mainspring power, so one must grasp the mainspring barrel (Figure 7) with one hand, remove the barrel retaining screws, and then slowly let the barrel slip through the fingers as the mainspring unwinds. With a firm grip and a controlled slipping action, you can let down the mainspring power without damaging the rest of the time train. Once the power is released, disassembly, repair, reassembly, and lubrication is like most timepieces. Figure 4 (above). Ano­ The particular movement that we're looking at had ther view of the Diebold one major problem: neglect. This timelock was allowed to movement. function for several years without periodic service. The results Figure 5 (right). Side were obvious: wear. Relatively soft steel pivots had been view of the Diebold turning in dry brass bushings with dried oil and itinerant dust movement. particles, forming a cutting compound that wore the pivot holes oblong, displacing the perpendicular orientation of the wheel arbors until wheels bound up against pinions, and the release of train power finally ground to a stop. Of course, the same cutting compound that effective­ ly ground out the brass pivot holes also scored and ground the soft steel pivots. Before any other repairs can be instigated, the damaged pivots must be repaired first (Figure 8). If the pivot is just lightly scored, a simple polishing of the pivot will cor­ rect the problem. But if the pivot diameter will be reduced

{~ ( (i"·" :··- ·. :· · ·/~: :·---~·

Figure 6 (above). Interior view of Diebold timelock movement.

Figure 7 (right). Mainspring barrel on lower plate, showing four retain­ ing screws.

Figure 3. The movement with platform escapement removed.

March 1990/Horological Times 29 Figure 8. Scored pivot needing replacement. Figure 9. Boring wheel arbor (prior to fitting new pivot) using spade drill in chuck-holding tailstock.

Polishing and/or replacing pivots is commonplace to the clockmaker, but the watchmaker seldom encounters this situation unless he works on a lot of antique, nonjewelled (or few jewelled) watch movements. To review for the watchmaker, if a pivot has even the slightest scoring or pitting, that pivot can cause serious damage when a bit of dried oil and ambient dust and dirt particles team up with these rough surfaces. At this point the pivot must be polished to a mirror finish with tripoli, rouge and dia­ mantine polishing compounds. If the scoring or pitting cannot be removed with polishing compounds, the pivot must be ground down to a smooth surface with (if serious enough) files first and various grits of grinding stones, before a bright finish is produced with polishing compounds. Figure 10. Pivot wire friction-fit into wheel arbor. If the scoring is so bad that grinding or filing will re­ duce the pivot diameter to nearly half its original diameter, then the pivot must be removed, the arbor/pinion assembly drilled out, and a new pivot installed (Figures 9 and 1O). Once the new pivot is friction fit into the wheel arbor, the pivot is polished to a mirror finish (Figure 11 ). (For a detailed look at polishing and repivoting wheels see Henry B. Fried's Bench Practices for Watchmakers and Clockmakers, Colum­ bia Communications, Inc., 370 Lexington Ave., New York, NY 10017. [1974, pp. 198-217]). As I looked at this movement with its oblong pivot holes, two solutions to the problem came to mind: 1) drill out the pivot holes and replace them with brass bushings, or 2) replace the pivot holes with friction-fit jewels. Both, in my mind, would effect a good repair. But one would alter the originality of this movement ... or would it? All at once I found myself thrown into the realm of the "conservation vs. restoration vs. expedient repair" di­ lemma. Dilemma? In my mind it's not much of a dilemma at Figure 11. Pivot wire shortened to appropriate length and being stoned all. But if one reads the British Horological Journal to any down to near original diameter prior to polishing to a mirror finish. extent, to the British horologist this has taken on the trappings of a major controversy, indeed. The controversy is this. When one has an horological­ necessary to repair and restore the original "function" of the ly significant item, how should one approach the repair of mechanism. Some even say to use new knowledge, skills, and such an item? One faction says that a significant item should material to improve the original maker's designs. What should be preserved as found, with no repairs or alterations, in order one do? Preserve? Restore? Enhance? ... This is the dilemma. to save the item for future information and study. Another To me, any repair should be done in such a manner faction says that an historically significant item should be that the piece can be returned to the original condition that repaired using the materials and technology available at the the original maker intended. In other words, don't use materi­ time the item was made, so that the technology and knowl­ als to effect a repair that were unknown or unused by the ori­ edge of the time would be preserved along with the move­ ginal maker, unless it can be easily replaced with that which ment. Another faction says that the function of the item is would or could have been made or used by the original maker. important: one should use whatever knowledge and skill is This way you're covering all bases. With such a conservative

30 Horological Times/March 1990 out the worn (Figure 12) pivot holes and insert Seitz friction jewels (Figure 13), because of the longevity that such a repair would produce. Had this movement been going into a col­ lection for preservation in a restored condition, I would have opted to drill out the worn pivot holes and replace them with. brass bushings (either handmade, KWM, Bergeon, or Seitz), thereby effecting a repair consistent with what the original maker could have done. As Figure 9 shows, I chose the SeitzT M jewelling tool to do the job. I like the convenience and speed of frec­ tion jewelling, and Seitz makes it handy. To begin the jewelling operation, select a jewel that has a pivot hole just large enough to fit over the wheel pivot with the least available sideshake possible, and yet with the smallest outside diameter available. For example, if the pivot Figure 12. Inside view of upper movement plate showing worn pivot size if 0.40 mm, the smallest diameter jewel available with a holes. 0.40 mm diameter is 0.90 mm. Place the movement plate (inside plate, facing up) in the Seitz jewelling tool, select a cutter 0.01 mm smaller than the outside diameter of the se­ lected jewel. Locate the center of the pivot hole using a cen­ tering punch in the jewelling tool, and while holding the plate firmly with your fingers, ream out the pivot hole with the se­ lected reamer (Figure 14). If the outside diameter of the jewel is much larger than the pivot hole, you might choose to cut the hole out with a smaller diameter reamer first and then use the final size reamer afterwards. This simply eases your work. You can do the same thing with a clock bushing machine simply by locating the pivot hole with a centering punch, locking the movement plate into the machine, and cutting out the hole with a cutter 0.01 mm smaller than the diameter of the friction jewel. The trick here is you most likely will have to make the correct size cutter, since most bushing machines come with such a limited selection of cutter diameters. Figure 13. The benchtop Sietz jewelling tool used to rejewel and re­ Once the hole is reamed out to 0.01 mm less than the bush this timelock movement. jewel diameter you're going to use (for example, a 1.2 mm dia­ meter Jewel uses a I .1 9 mm reamer) select a pusher much larger than the outside diameter of ·the jewel (Figure 15). Place the jewel in the reamed-out hole and press in- the jewel (oil sink side down) with the punch. This will leave the jewel flush with the inside of the movement plate.

Figure 14. Seitz jewelling tool reaming out a worn pivot hole.

repair and/or restoration, the item can be returned to its original state (or nearly so) if need be or wanted to be . Yet one needs to take into account the future use of this time­ piece, also. In the case of this particular timelock movement, the Figure 15. Seitz jewelling tool pushing a friction jewel or brass bushing mechanism is not particularly valuable, historically or tech­ into enlarged pivot hole. nically. But some of the timelock movements that you may encounter are of historical value and these movements need careful repair considerations. The movement we're studying here is more valuable in its continued service as a vault time­ lock for a potentially great number of years, so I opted to drill March 1990/Horological Times 31 Assemble the train within the movement plates and check endshake. If you don't have any discernable endshake, remove the train and press the jewel into the plate a bit fur­ ther, using the micrometer stop on the jewelling tool. (For a complete review of the use of the SeitzT M and other jewel­ ling tools, see Henry B. Fried's book, Bench Practices for Watchmakers and Clockmakers, pp. 140-188.) This completes the jewelling of our Diebold timelock movement. However, one problem remains. The third wheel pivot requires a larger hole jewel than the Seitz jewelling as­ sortment contains. Therefore, I chose the only solution left: installing a brass bushing to correct the worn third wheel pivot. To correct this problem, I chose a Seitz brass bushing, installing it the same way that one would install a Seitz jewel (Figures 10 and 11 ). Of course, one could make a brass bushing or in­ stall a KWM or Bergeon brass friction bushing as well, using a Figure 16. Reaming out a brass bushing by hand. Note that it is critical clock bushing tool. to hold the reamer (or broach) exactly perpendicular to the movement Choose a brass bush that is slightly smaller than the plate-a technique that takes quite a bit of practice. wheel pivot in question, install it, and then ream out the in­ side diameter (Figure 16) to the point that the wheel pivot slips in and can be canted left and right about 5° (Figure 17). This will allow sufficient sideshake for optimum train freedom at this pivot. Endshake can be adjusted by pushing the bushing further into the plate as needed. At this point, you now have a functioning Diebold timelock movement that will continue protecting the security of its vault's combination/lock for many . years with just yearly cleaning and lubricating. The intent of this discussion is threefold: 1) to present this Diebold timelock movement (no calibre or model number known) for your refer­ ence; 2) to make some comments upon the very real question of restoration, conservation, and preser­ vation of unique or interesting horological items; and 3) to add comment to some standard jewelling and Figure 17. Checking the sideshake of pivot in new brass bushing hole. bushing practices.

Next time we'll take a look at another fairly common timelock movement and the repairs that were encountered there.

the Research & Education Council. For maker and co-authored the popular Ques­ OBITUARY many years he worked tirelessly, sharing tions & Answers for the Clockmaking his expertise in AWI's traveling Advanced Profession. In addition, he wrote many Clock Repair course. In recent years, technical articles for Horological Times Dr. Baier had been the catalyst that made and other publications. Joseph G. Baier, the Arizona Clockmakers & Watchmakers Dr. Baier retired from the Ph.D. Guild function; he earned the titles of University of Wisconsin where he served Certified Master Watchmaker and Certi­ as Frederic Guyer Professor of Zoology fied Master Clockmaker of the American and Dean of the College of Letters and Watchmakers Institute. Science, Milwaukee, Wisconsin. He held Joseph Baier operated "Time memberships in numerous scientific or­ Restoration, Inc." after retiring from the ganizations, including, among others, be­ University of Wisconsin and moving to ing a Fellow in the American Association Arizona. He specialized in the restoration for the Advancement of Science, a Fellow and reconditioning of antique and unusual in the Linnaean Society of London, and timepieces. AWi called upon his special election to the honor societies of Sigma oseph G. Baier, Ph.D. Phoenix, talents to restore two of the famous XI and Phi Kappa Phi. Arizona, died unexpectantly on watches in the AWI Packard Collection of Dr. Baier is survived by his wife, JJanuary 14, 1990. Joseph Baier complicated watches-namely, Numbers Thelma P., two daughters, one son, one has been active in the affairs of AWI for 11 and 12. In conjunction with his AWI brother, 7 grandchildren, and two great­ more than a decade, having served on the clock course, Dr. Baier authored Striking grandchildren. Executive Committee and as Chairman of Clocks- A Hands-On Survey for the Clock-

32 Horological Times/March 1990 PRE-CONVENTION WORKSHOP: 5-DA Y COURSE ON COMPLICATED WATCHES JUNE 16-20

CONDUCTED BY Antoine Simonin, Director Watchmakers of Switzerland COURSE OUTLINE Training & Education Program, Study of various complicated watches, Neuchatel, Switzerland such as: Mr. Antoine Simonin is a Swiss citizen * various systems of chronograph who graduated from the Bienne School of * split chronograph Watchmaking. After working for Omega * quarter and minute repeater­ for five years in sales and service in Europe old and modern and Africa, he became a training coordin­ * independent jumping seconds ator for the Swiss Watch Federation. He * calendar mechanism-including holds the Directorship for the Training perpetual system and Educational Program (WOSTEP) for Participants should bring one of these the Watchmaking Industry of Switzer­ along or any other speciality. land since 1976, and has more than 30 years of experience in training watch- REGISTRATION makers. Registration is limited and will be selected Mr. Simonin is a collector of technical timepieces, mainly marine chronometers by earliest postmarks. Fee : $125 .00. Mail and complicated watches. He is the editor of the Swiss watch and clock collectors bulle­ to : AWi Central, 3700 Harrison Avenue, tin, as well as president ofCHRONOMETROPHILIA, the Swiss watch and clock collec­ Cincinnati, OH 45211. tors association. He is also editor and distributor of horological books. PLAN TO ATTEND &WOv<@ 30TH ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION

SATURDAY, JUNE 23, 1990 CINCINNATI, OHIO

RADISSON INN AIRPORT P.O. BOX 75108 CINCINNATI, OH 45275-0108 TELEPHONE (606) 371-6166 1-75 to 1-275 west to exit 4B; follow hotel signs A display and demonstrations will be presented on June 22nd and 23rd. The display will feature hand­ crafted timepieces from around the world and watches FEATURING: from the famous Packard Collection.

GEORGE DANIELS-World-famous British watch­ The Saturday evening banquet will enable you to en­ maker from the Isle of Man. joy a top flight speaker and meet some of the horo­ logical legends of our time. DANA BLACKWELL-Foremost clock expert and curator of the American Watch & Clock Museum, A riverboat luncheon cruise will delight the other Bristol, CT. family members at noon.

HENRY B. FRIED-Dean of American watchmakers For a program schedule and registration information and authority on AWi's Collection including the contact: AWi Central, 3700HarrisonAve., Cincinnati, Packard Watches. OH 45211.

March 1990/Horological Times 33 CLOCKS l'>t~ide s Out!

Gerhard M. Hutter, CMW, FBHI

An Astronon1ical Clock

stro!abe is from the Greek word meaning "to take the simple observation. In addition, the astrolabe contains various stars," given by the Greeks to any circular instru­ diagrams, tables, and scales. This makes it possible for the im­ A ment for observing the stars, and also found in the mediate determination of the positions of the fixed stars in re­ Arabic and Persian languages by the word asturlab. The as­ lation to the horizon-also the position of the sun, moon, or trolabe is used the same way as the quadrant or sextant for planets relative to the fixed stars, and any other relation of interest. The term applies to three principal classes of instru- ments: 1. The linear astrolabe, which is basically the design of the sky as a dome on a straight line and less accurate; 2. The spherical astrolabe-or armillary sphere-which consists of a celestial globe with a surrounding spider. It can help to solve many problems in spherical astronomy, and gives the time and stellar distances; 3. The planispheric astrolabe, which found use ex­ tensively during the Middle Ages, both in Europe and the Orient for navigation and surveying. The origin of the astrolabe is not definite. Vittruvius cited that Eudoxus of Cnidos (408-355 B.C.) or Apollonius (265-170 B.C.) contributed to the design. A more likely theory is that the improvement relates to the sundial by the invention of the spider, and not the astrolabe. Hipparchus of Nicaea (180-125 B.C.) is considered a more likely candidate to have applied the theory of stereographic projection and to have drawn the Celestial Sphere upon the plane of the equator. This record is substantiated by his successor, Ptolemy. Theon of Alexandria wrote a commentary on the work of his master Synesius, an accomplished citizen of Cyrene, who designed a silver astrolabe. He presented it to his friend Paeonius in the fourth century. There are many theories that astrolabes were in use by Arabs and Egyptians or Babylonians centuries earlier. Unhappily, neither the instruments nor any treatise have sur­ vived. Many early brass or bronze-made surviving instruments date from the thirteenth century. The planispheric astrolabe was known and used from India to England and from the Tropics to Scandinavia. The astrolabe had its renaissance in the Middle Ages and found wide applications in surveying to measure height, depth, and length. When used for navigation, the instrument 34 Horological Times/March 1990 has to be portable. To accomplish this, the astrolabe uses a winter solstices and to its oblique angles. In summer the sun set of exchangeable maters or faces for different latitudes. As rises to a high orbit, as is true in the real world. The northern long as the sun, moon, or stars are visible, the sighting can be system sees the sun rising and setting, true to the compass, but made by night or day. The alidade is adjusted so that one of the winter solstices are far high, and the summer orbit is the stars whose projected image is incorporated on the rete is diminished and less authentic. aligned with the pinholes of its sighting plates. The elevation Some very good examples, mostly in running order, of this star is read from a scale engraved along the margin of survived in Doberan and Wells in England. Also, inside some of the suspended disk. The rete is then rotated about the pin over the most famous cathedrals in Europe are some of the most the face of the disk, engraved with the horizon-based refer­ beautiful and complicated astronomical tower clocks-as in ence frame. The projected stellar image has to be above the Chartres, Strassburg, and Lyon in France; in Ulm, Luebeck, projected horizon, at the elevation measured by the alidade. and Muenster in West ; in Lund, ; Vienna, Once the rete has thus been properly oriented, the time is Austria; or in Winterthur, Switzerland. A more modern example indicated by the position of the point on the Ecliptic then oc­ is the astronomical clock designed by Jens Olson in the Town cupied by the sun. The sextants, still in wide use today, accom­ Hall in Copenhagen. It has no equal in execution or design, plish the same purpose, and to a much higher accuracy. and Otto Mortensen finished the clock in 1955. This is just a Astronomical clocks, many manufactured as early small sample of well-restored astronomical clocks that are well as 1330, and many good examples are found in museums. The restored, and most are open to the public and in running second category consists of clocks found on or in public build­ order. Many more exist all over Europe. ings, such as city halls or cathedrals. In a typical arrangement An article about Jobst Burgi and one of his astron­ the star map and mater of the conventional astrolabe change omical table clocks in Alte Uhren got me hooked on the idea places, the coordinated lines being made into the spider and of designing my own astronomical clock. First, the clock the stars being painted on the wall behind it. Among these shows essentially two different times. The mean year consists clocks are two basic designs that differ in their execution. of 365.25 days, while the sidereal year has a length of 366.25 The older examples use the southern hemisphere, while the days. That gives the star day a length of only 23 hours, 56 younger group of builders preferred the northern design. In minutes, and 4 seconds. the southern system, we find ourselves in the center looking The main wheel in my clock drives basically three towards the South and see the horizon surrounding us. We find trains, and they in turn drive some secondary trains. The time parts of the Equator and the Tropics over the horizon. The sun train is straightforward and is month-going, which simplifies rises in the East and sets in the West, and more true to the the design. The solar train that incorporates the equation of time drives the sidereal train and the rete. The same train also moves the moon year wheel with the dragon hand, which makes one revolution in 18.6 years. The design of the train al­ lows the main wheel to be away from the dial, and causes no interference with the rete. The time train is as follows:

Main wheel...... 96 teeth lnterm. wheel .....80 teeth .....pinion 12 leaves Center wheel .....90 teeth .....pinion 12 leaves Third wheel ...... 96 teeth ..... pinion 12 leaves Escape wheel .... .40 teeth ..... pinion 8 leaves

A is not only attractive, easy to construct, and saves one wheel in the train, but it gives more equal power over the full length of the mainspring. Many mathematical theories for the perfect fusee curves have been written, but the only practical way is to use a weight rod. The weight rod is fastened onto the center wheel shaft, and the main wheel is slowly wound. The mainspring is either more wound, or let down. If the power is not equal the fusee curve has to be re­ shaped. A very important part of the fusee is the maintaining power and should not be overlooked. The backlash that occurs while winding can easily damage th~ delicate teeth in a dead beat escapement. To make the clock more accurate and to use the smallest amount of power, the Graham dead beat escapement is the first choice. It is very easy to construct, and effortlessly drives a very heavy mercurial pendulum that beats half seconds. Also, at the same time, the mercury compensates for variations in temperature of the steel. The formula used derives from John Harrison's notes and gives excellent results.

March 1990/Horological Times 35 The linear expansion of a column of mercury in a The 2nd Intermediate wheel also holds the equation glass tube is about 164.5 parts per million per degree C, where­ of time heart that over a cam and gear moves the hand that as that of steel is about 11.5 per million. gives true solar time. Opposite the equation of the time dial Thus the calculation is as follows: is a functional barometer that has no other function than to 164.5 x = 11.5 (40 + x) give the correct pressure reading. I cut my wheels and pinions with module cutters and do not use high gear trains. All must We assume that the scientific length of the pendulum is 40 pass the test for the least rolling friction in a depthing tool, or inches, and, to equal this, we arrive at a mercury height of made new. close to 3 inches. A perpetual calendar is located above the astronomical The sidereal train is as follows: dial that incorporates the day, date, month, and phases of the moon, and has a leap year correction. Main wheel...... pinion 20 leaves The plates and wheels are cut out of leaded half­ 1. lnterm. wheel ... 90 teeth. .pinion 8 leaves hard brass. For the pinions, I prefer high manganese, high 2. lnterm. wheel ...293 teeth carbon SAE 1144 steel. It is easy to mill, and widely used for parts where a large amount of machining is necessary. It pro­ The dragon train is as follows: vides many benefits for heat treatment, and can be successful­ ly quenched in oil or water to achieve different ranges of hard­ Rete ...... pinion 25 leaves ness or toughness. 1. lnterm. wheel ... 100 teeth ....pinion 20 leaves The engraving on the mater is according to the north­ 2. lnterm. wheel ... 93 teeth ern system and for the local latitude of Palm Beach, Florida, 26.7 degrees. The Tropic of Cancer marks the smallest circle, Friction is one of the most important design con­ followed by the Equator in the middle, and the Tropic of Cap­ siderations. Less power means less friction, and this amounts ricorn at the outermost circle. The horizontal line through the to less wear. In all of my clocks, I use high-precision minia­ center is the East-West line, and vertically is the Meridian. The ture ball bearings. They have the advantage of notably less North Pole is just inside the circle of the Tropic of Cancer. friction than bushings, but the fit in both the pivots and plate The lines of the Equal Azimuth that represent the longitude pivots is much more critical. It must be accomplished with the least amount of play. For service, they are easily removed, cleaned, and oiled without any alteration to the finish of the plates.

The solar train is as follows:

Main wheel...... pinion 9 leaves 1. Interm. wheel . 97 teeth .... pinion 8 leaves 2. lnterm. wheel ... 122 teeth

-~,,::;::,,_:;:"'"'-4;--c----t--:-:~~-p'"t:::A,fd't""=~b¥-J.-~-~"(-c-:~-l-.-.\l.~A<_:_:•T~~!:_.2£:?.~--~- EC...... 1"'0" , 1 ·~ A!.A1'\ ..o.1NA.l EQU1t.10,)(

The Astrolabe clock without calendar; mater and rete removed. At left is the barometer; at right, equation of time.

36 Horological Times/March 1990 connect from the North Pole to the South Pole; on an astro­ labe these are shown only above the Horizon. The same also The "Watches Inside & Out" article on Seiko's holds true for the almucantar Iin es, where circles for every ten AGS- "Automatic Generating System" (page degrees end at the North Pole and start at the Horizon. The 12 14, December '89 issue) is a fine article and Unequal Hour lines divide the mater below the Horizon in 12 technically correct, but there is one point that equal parts. The entire cycle of a day is divided into 24 hours, should be clarified. In order for the test of the regardless of the period of daylight. The astrolabe also divides capacitor using a volt-ohmmeter to be valid, into 12 Astronomical Houses, and identifies the facet of the meter must have a 3-volt output of the ohm­ human affairs. The rete or spider is basically a pierced dial with star meter. Most meters have only one 1%-volt bat­ pointers, and represents 25 of the larger fixed stars. The tery, including the popular Citizen analog meter Ecliptic is engraved with the tropical year and every two de­ (newer version). The Seiko S-831 analog meter, grees, and is set off-center on the rete. It also includes the and the older Citizen tester have two 1%- bat­ zodiacal divisions and is of great help to set it correctly. teries, and will give satisfactory test results, but Clockmaking is a labor of love, and a very rewarding the 1%-volt models will not charge the capaci­ one. This project grew out of a small and simple timepiece. tor to the 1.5-volt level and will not give the When finished, it expanded to an 18-inch-tall table model proper ohms readings. Do not use meters with and took close to four years to complete. It was necessary to only one battery or any digital ohmmeter for complete and test two other clocks for research before all the this test. They will not work. components could be incorporated in this complicated design. Bob Bishop Many thanks go to Henry B. Fried, "Mr. Watch­ maker," for his continuous help and kindness, always lending a helping hand and coming up with new ideas. Why not start your own project should it be a watch or clock, and show that our profession is not dead.

Perpetual calendar; the mater. The rete.

March 1990/Horological Times 37 Technically © 1990 WATCHES

Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC, CMBHI (All rights reserved by the author)

1990 Antique Watch Restoration © PART LI GEAR CUTTING EQUIPMENT ow, the equipment used for cutting gears will be It is a valuable asset to the watchmaker if the equipment discussed more in detail. The equipment used for and attachments are interchangeable from one lathe or ma- N cutting gears does not need to be new, but it must chine to another. be in good condition and very accurate. If one can afford new Gears can be made on a lathe or a milling machine. equipment, this is fine. Most of the equipment used by the If a lathe is used to cut gears, then one must have a gear author is good used equipment. It is very important for one cutting and milling attachment as well as a slide rest. Figure 1 to know the capability of the equipment and the correct shows a setup for making gears. The gear cutting and milling method for using it, as well as its condition and adjustment. attachment shown in View A mounts on top of the slide rest

38 Horological Times/March 1990 shown in View B. The slide rest is mounted squarely and in View G.) This allows the block to be held against the side securely to the top of the lathe bed. It is better if the nut on of the top slide of the slide rest while the bolts are being the bolt holding the slide rest to the lathe bed has four arms tightened to align the attachment squarely on the slide rest. as shown in View C. This gives a better hand grip than does Make sure the two nuts are tightened sufficiently. CAUTION: a round knurled nut and allows the nut to be turned tighter Do not overtighten these nuts because the "T" slots in the to assure that the slide rest is sufficiently tightened to the slide rest are delicate and fragile and can easily be distorted or lathe bed. If the slide rest is not sufficiently tightened to the broken out. lathe bed, then it may change position during the operation In Figure 1, the spindle H of the gear cutting and of cutting a gear. milling attachment is set in a horizontal position. This is the The slide rest should either be mounted on a shoe proper position for the spindle for cutting most gears. The on the lathe bed or have an adjustable stop which will align spindle of this attachment can also be set in a vertical posi­ the slide rest squarely on the lathe bed. The slide rest shown tion. This is done when cutting bevel gears and contrate has an adjustable stop on its base. This is shown in View D. wheels. The spindle can also be set at any angle between the If the slide rest base is milled out for a shoe, then the shoe horizontal and vertical positions. The base I of the spindle should fit very closely in the milled-out base of the slide rest. housing is tightened to its block by two screws threaded into The shoe should also fit the lathe bed correctly. The slide the block. The two screws work through two circular slots rest can have two or three slides. It is very important to have milled in the base of the spindle housing. The base of the all of the excess play taken up in all of the slides of the slide spindle housing has degree marks around its edge to indicate rest. This is done by adjusting the gib screws along the edge of the setting of the spindle. The lead screw used to move the each slide. The slides should operate freely without excess spindle up and down has a metric thread. The pitch of the play. If the slides have excess play, then the cutter is likely thread is 1.00 mm. A metric scale shown in View J is stamped to cut wide slots and thin teeth on the gear. The slides and on the edge of the frame to be used to judge the amount the lead screws should be kept clean and oiled with a good lathe spindle has been moved up or down when the lead screw is oil so they will operate smoothly. The slides should never turned. A locking screw with its lever is used to lock the slide operate with a jerky motion as this could affect the size carrying the spindle at any height. This is shown in View K. A of the space that the cutter cuts. If a steel pinion is being cut belt from the countershaft goes over idler pulleys to the pulley and the slide rest has a jerky motion, this could cause the on the spindle of the attachment to drive the spindle. The cutter to become damaged. If the cutter is suddenly moved handle of the attachment's lead screw has a calibrated fric­ forward into the steel being cut, the teeth on the cutter may tion dial for determining how much the spindle is raised become burnished or broken. or lowered when the lead screw is turned. The dial shown When cutting gears, it is better for the slide rest to in View L fits on the lead screw friction tight and turns with be operated with lead screws rather than to be operated by the screw when it is turned, but it can be turned on the lead levers. Although lever feed can speed up production over screw to set it to a zero starting point before the lead screw screw feed, the screw feed gives a more uniform motion to is turned. When the lead screw is turned for one mark on the the slides than does a lever feed. With the screw feed, the slide friction dial, the spindle block is moved .1 mm. This is because can be stopped safely at any point without the danger of the there are ten marks around the edge of the friction dial and slide being accidentally moved suddenly and jamming the the lead screw has a pitch of 1.00 mm. The friction dial allows cutter into the metal. the pitch of the screw to be divided into ten parts. This gear The gear cutting and milling attachment shown cutting and milling attachment takes 8.00 mm WW chucks or in View A, Figure 1 is an old Wolf-Jahn attachment. This is col lets. a very nicely made gear cutting and milling attachment. It is very unfortunate that this attachment is no longer made, PREPARATION FOR CUTTING A WHEEL although other brands of attachments are still being manu­ One of the first things to do when cutting the teeth factured. Among these are the ones made by Bergeon, Boley, on an already-made wheel blank is to select the proper cutter. Derbyshire, and Levin. Any one of these is very satisfactory If the wheel is being made to sample, then the cutter can be for cutting gears. The Levin attachment has ball bearings. fitted to a good space in the old wheel. The cutter should be Boley makes two styles of attachments. One style holds the shaped to match the shape of the good teeth in the sample cutter with the blank held in the lathe headstock. The other wheel. The width of the cutter should be about .02 mm less style holds the blank and index plate while the cutter is than the width of the space between two good teeth on the held on an arbor chuck in the lathe headstock. One reason sample wheel. This is to allow for any faults in the trueness for using an attachment which holds the index plate and blank of the cutter. If the sample wheel is missing, then the width is that when this is done there is no need to have an idler of the cutter must be calculated after the dimensions of the stand and pulleys to guide the belt. new wheel have been calculated. The width of cutter equals The Wolf-Jahn attachment shown mounted on the the pitch of the wheel divided by two (less .02 mm). The pitch slide rest in Figure 1 will now be described. This attachment equals the pitch diameter times (7T) 3.1416 divided by the is being held on top of the slide rest with two bolts which number of teeth in the wheel. The following example is used fit the "T" slot in the top slide of the slide rest. These are to illustrate this calculation. The wheel has 60 teeth and the shown in View E. Note: The gear cutting attachment should pitch diameter of the wheel equals 12.00 mm. Then: always have two or more bolts or screws holding it to the slide rest. This is to prevent it from twisting on the slide rest. Pitch = 12.00 X 3.1416 = .628 60 When only one bolt is used, it is possible that the attachment could shift its position on the slide rest. Width of Cutter = .628 = .314 (less .02 mm) To attach and align the attachment on the slide 2 rest, the crank shown in View F is turned to lower the block holding the spindle so the lower edge of the block is lower This measurement would be at a point on the cutter where the than the bottom of the attachment's base. (The block is shown pitch circle of the wheel would come on the cutter. After the

March 1990/Horologi.cal Times 39 Figure 3

PA PER SHIM

A

cutter has been selected, then it is mounted on its arbor the round on the arbor chuck. To do this, the nut on the arbor chuck. The arbor chuck is held in the lathe headstock for chuck is lightly hand tightened, then a piece of wood is this operation. After the cutter is made to run true on the supported on the tee rest and advanced lightly against the arbor chuck, then the chuck is transferred to the spindle of teeth of the cutter as the lathe is turning at a fast speed. The the gear cutting and milling attachment. It is very important arbor chuck should be turning in the direction of the arrow. that the cutter runs true on the arbor chuck. After the cutter has been trued, the nut should be made tight Figure 2 shows the process of mounting the cutter and the cutter rechecked for trueness. so it runs true on the arbor chuck. View A, Figure 2 shows The next step is to place the arbor chuck with the how a thin paper shim can be used to true up a cutter in the cutter in the spindle of the gear cutting attachment and center flat on the arbor chuck in case the cutter does not run true up the cutter. A sharp true center is held in the headstock of in the flat. The shim is placed between the side of the cutter the lathe to be used for centering the wheel cutter. Figure 3 and the shoulder of the arbor chuck at a point where the teeth shows the centering of the cutter. View A, Figure 3 shows on the cutter are closest to the end of the lathe spindle. Note: the cutter centered with the sharp point of a center chuck. The paper shim can also be used to throw a cutter out of true Usually the center has a tapered shank which fits a matching in the flat so it will cut a wider space in case the cutter is taper in the center chuck. This is so the male center can be slightly too narrow for the correct width space. removed and replaced with a female center or vice versa. View B, Figure 2 shows how the cutter is trued in Another method is to chuck a steel rod in a split wire chuck and turn a sharp male center on the end of the rod as shown in View B, Figure 3. This method assures us that the center is running true. This rod can be saved for the next wheel cutting job, but the rod would need to be rechucked and the Figure 4 center recut each time it is used to assure that the center runs true. Another method that can be used for centering the cutter is shown in Figure 4. With this method, the spindle on the arbor chuck extends out past the nut on the chuck, then the spindle is pointed for centering up the cutter. This method allows for the cutter to be centered up after the wheel blank has been trued on the arbor chuck. If the chuck runs true each time it is placed in the spindle of the lathe, then the center may not need to be recut each time it is used. Occasionally one will find a cutter which has one side of the teeth cut back farther than on the other side. This is a faulty cutter and, if it is centered exactly with the pointed center, it will cut teeth that lean to one side or teeth that are shaped differently on each side. If we set the cutter slightly

40 Horological Times/March 1990 off center, the cutter will cut upright teeth with the points of the teeth on center. Figure 5 shows this condition and the Figure 5 centering of the cutter. The long side of the cutter is shown at "a" in the enlarged inset of Figure 5. The cutter is set off center so the point is closer to the longer side of the cutter as shown. Some experimenting may need to be done in order that the cutter will cut upright teeth. One should set the cutter slightly off center and then cut a trial tooth, and if the tooth is still leaning, then set the cutter farther off center and then cut another trial tooth. This is repeated until the cutter cuts a straight tooth which comes to a point in the center of the tooth. Figure 6 shows how the wheel blanks are trued up on the arbor chuck. The arbor chuck is placed in the lathe headstock spindle. Then the wheel blanks are placed on the pin of the arbor chuck and the cap is fastened into position. The screws are tightened lightly. Now, as the lathe is turning at a fairly fast speed in the direction of the arrow, a piece of wood is used on the tee rest to true up the blanks. Then the screws are tightened. Next, the wheel blanks are turned down to the proper diameter for cutting the teeth. Note: Make sure the index plate is placed on the lathe spindle before the wheel blank is turned to final diameter. One should leave the diameter of the blanks oversized about .04 to .06 mm. This is to allow for pointing the teeth without making the wheel too small. The blanks can be turned down by hand as shown in View A, Figure 7 or a slide rest can be used as shown in View B. If the hand method is used, the tee rest should be set up close to the edge of the blanks and at right angles to the edge of the blanks as shown. This helps one to judge if the graver is cutting a straight surface which is square with the sides of the blanks. The diameter of the blanks should be checked ' often with a micrometer during the operation. The graver should be sharp and the cutting edge should be straight. It is more desirable to use a slide rest to turn the blanks down in diameter. The slide rest gives more control over the operation than does the hand graver. The slide rest must be set on zero so it will cut a straight square surface. The cutter should be very sharp and smooth. The slide rest will true up the blanks in the round if they are out of round Figure 7 to start with, whereas a hand graver may follow the out of roundness of the blanks and result in finished blanks which are out of round. When turning material which is out of round with a hand graver, one should anchor the graver solidly on the tee rest at first so only the high points will be removed. This should be done until the material has been turned true, then the material is turned to size. When cutting the wheel teeth, one should first pro­ ceed by cutting one tooth to about one-half depth. That is, one should cut two spaces next to each other to one-half depth. Then lower the cutter and cut both spaces deeper. This is repeated until the tooth is just brought to a point, then all of the teeth are cut at this same depth to complete the wheel teeth. After the first tooth has been brought to a point, then the locking lever K of Figure 1 is used to lock the height of the spindle so all of the teeth will be cut to the same depth. Note: When cutting the first tooth, one should proceed with caution to avoid making the wheel too small. The in­ dexing for each tooth can be done with an index plate and latch or a universal dividing attachment which was discussed previously.

"Antique Watch Restoration" will continue next month.

March 1990/Horological Times 41 James Adams, CMW, FBHI

The Mainspring and Barrel

istory time! Yup . . in this expose you gotta put a burst of power at odd intervals. Along with the above-men­ in some hard time ... back to the history books. tioned problems, the mainspring would deliver extreme HHow do you expect to pontificate to your peers power when fully coiled, and when running down it would about the mainspring if you know zilch about it? So hang produce significantly less power. on, here we go. The practical nature of these early clock/watch­ In many respects accurate history is, at best, hazy. makers was such that they devised two systems-the "stack­ All we can do is gather the best and most logical informa­ freed" works (from the German "starken feder"-strong tion and paint our own picture of historic events. I'll bet spring) and the "stopwork." actual events in past history are quite different than what we The stopwork would only allow the center portion imagine. For one thing, our ancestors were much more bril­ of the coiled mainspring power to be used, eliminating the liant of mind and hand than we give them credit for. This source of power from fully wound and also from near the I believe. run down state, and only using the center power source. Anyway, there are at least two different facts or sets The stackfreed system was ingenious, but not the real answer of information available about the mainspring. First, in the to the mainspring problem. The idea was that there was a small Victoria and Albert Museum in London there is the earliest wheel fitted to the end of a powerful spring mounted on the known spring-driven clock which has been dated about 1450. train bridge. The small wheel pressed against a cam fitted That being so, the mainspring for clock work has to be much to the mainspring barrel. When fully wound, this little wheel older than 1450. exerted an extra friction to help slow down the mainspring's Second, the locksmith in Nuremburg, Germany, full force. As the mainspring neared the time frame of sup­ Peter Henlein (also known as Henle or Hele), supposedly plying less energy, the little wheel on the end of that very invented the steel mainspring in 1500. It stands to reason that powerful spring descended into a curved depression on the Pete, the locksmith, was familiar and used various forms of cam, and while doing so, the wheel and its powerful spring mainsprings in his locksmith work. The tiniest watch of that added its power to the mainspring making for a more even era might be described as a clock/watch. A prestigious, me­ total amount of released energy. It was a good idea, but it chanical marvel to be worn around the neck or in a large didn't work very well. pocket, it was the size of a baseball. The earliest known The thing that did the job was so ingenious and me­ one of these is in the British Museum and is dated about chanically elegant in its concept, that it remained in use in 1530. This was attributed to Jeremias Metzger of Augsberg, chronometers and other specialty clocks from the 15th cen­ Germany. Again, it stands to reason the mainspring in clocks/ tury through the early 1900s. That was the fusee. It is thought watches predate 1530 by quite a bit. that Jacob Zech of Prague invented it. The fusee is a tapered These early mainsprings induced very serious (even spindle or a cone-shaped pulley. There is a cord and later a for then) time errors. In other words, they were not very good chain connecting the fusee with the mainspring barrel. By at contributing to keeping time. The reason for this was the being conical in nature, the fusee would equalize the main­ springs were fabricated of hammered brass and didn't provide spring power output. When the mainspring exerted the most a constant source of power. Added to that shortcoming was pressure, the cord or chain was pulling on the smallest diam­ the fact that the coils would bind up on each other because eter of the cone exerting the least leverage. As the mainspring of their uneven finish. Periodically, they would then release ran down, then the cord or chain was exerting the maximum

42 Horological Times/March 1990 ELGIN DB&H DOUBLE BRACE & HOLE HAMIL TON D.B. DOUBLE BRACE

ELGIN S.B. SINGLE BRACE HAMILTON T-BRACE

ELGIN HOLE HAMILTON T l c )

leverage on the coned fusee. two pieces and slides into place on a track groove between The next development was into what we know as the underside of the train bridge and a track on the upper modern mainsprings. First was blued steel and then the white side of the pillar plate. Too many times these dust bands alloyed break-resistant mainspring. You know, that was are missing. You don't contribute to this problem by thinking interesting, wasn't it? Enough history, now it's time to speak the dust band is not necessary. Hey, guy, if it was not neces­ of mainsprings and barrels as used in the American pocket sary, the watch manufacturer would not have increased watch. his cost by putting it there. There are two forms of mainspring barrels in use in Let's get back to letting the power down on the 18 the American pocket watch-the going barrel and the motor size full plate movement. On the edge of the pillar plate in barrel. the area of the mainspring barrel is a small hole. First, insert I think it might be best to back up a moment and do your mainspring key (that tool that fits into the negative some reminding. On any mechanical watch, make it a habit winding square) and hold it tightly. Then insert a blunted to let down the power in the mainspring barrel before you needle or wire, held in a pin vise, into that hole on the edge disassemble the movement. Total disaster will ensue if you of the pillar plate. That needle or wire will disengage the forget, especially in the 12 size, 16 size, and 18 size pocket mainspring click so as to allow you to let the power off watch. Even if the mainspring is diagnosed as broken, there· via the mainspring key tool. could still be stored power in the barrel. You should be Mainspring end connector shapes are shown in familiar with the procedure in watches with % plates or, in Figure 1. As you can see, there are several styles of ends other words, movements with crown and ratchet wheels as they connect to the barrel. As mentioned earlier, the main­ on the top of the barrel bridge. No problem here. But what spring as factory fitted, was recurved blue steel mainsprings. about the full plate 18 size movement with the balance cock The recurve, or reverse curve, is located at the outer length (balance bridge) on the top of the full-plated movement? In of the mainspring. This you should be familiar with. There this case, if you are not familiar with the mainspring let down are two things that can happen to a steel mainspring. First, procedure, listen up gang. Let me say first that the 18 size we have breakage. Breakage can happen in two ways. I keep movement was fitted with a dust band. This comes in two running into twos! Well ... so be it. First in breakage is one forms. First, the dust band is a circular metal band that fits coil breakage. This is due to metal fatigue in that precise on the edge of the movement and joins the pillar plate and area, maybe a structural failure through fissures, steel harden­ train bridge with a dust shield. In some cases, this is a one­ ing process, or localized rust. Second are external causes. piece band that snaps down over the train bridge edges and This is where the mainspring will break radially at several seats onto the pillar plate. Second, the dust band comes in places simultaneously; that is, in 3, 4, or 5 places across the

March 1990/Horological Times 43 coils at the same time. So, you have a mainspring that is neatly an overbanking condition; that is, the balance takes too much i:Jroken, you can see the radial breakage, and the mainspring motion. In my mind, I think Elgin means rebanking; that is, is in many, many pieces. From the looks of things, it's prob­ the balance has received so much power as to cause the roller able that a coiled mainspring, under it's intense stress and jewel to bounce off the PF&A opposite of its PF&A pulse jolt. pushing inside the barrel, sets it up for a negative reaction to Overbanking is where the escapement disengages itself through electrical disturbance such as severe weather lightening dis­ PF&A guard dart shortcoming or alignment error. More on this charges. Other theories believe that when barometric pressures later. In any event, Elgin supplies "extra light strength" in change quickly, the carbon spring has a tendency to break. mainspring grades. It's also more than possible that the last It's relatively common to see this in blue mainsprings. I've guy fitting a mainspring in the movement didn't have the never seen it in the white alloy break-resistant mainsprings. correct spring and inserted a stronger one in place of a correct Since the advent of break-resistant mainsprings, one. This is most common. this style is also available for the American pocket watch. I think, perhaps, I've covered enough for now. These are specifically designed for the respective models of Next time we will talk about how to determine the correct pocket watches. The only real difference between the blue measurements of the mainspring and discuss the going barrel and white alloy is that the white dimension is a bit stronger and the motor barrel. than the blue steel, so white alloy is generally made slightly Before I go, let me impress upon you to use a main­ weaker in thickness strength by design. The first "unbreak­ spring winder when inserting the mainspring in the barrel, able" mainspring was manufactured by Elgin and was called please. More on this next time. Durapower®. This spring had a rough finish on the width portion. When the spring was first used in the watch, the REFERENCES unpolished portion of coils rubbing against each other allowed The History of Clocks and Watches, Bruton "good motion" or 270 degrees in a dial position. As the watch Time and Timekeepers, Milham was wound and unwound day after day, the unpolished Watch and Clock Information Please, Samelius coils became polished from rubbing against each other. These Chicago School of Watchmaking text polished coils allowed for less friction and thus delivered more Hal Herman power to the escapement and, of course, caused the balance to Personal experience rebank or overmotion. Elgin also has several mainsprings in their 18s, 16s, l 2s, Os, 0-3 /Os, and 5 /0-6/0s size(s) to correct

a handbag, and there is no allowable time for a trial test run. The consequences of a comeback, compounded by other customers waiting are tough taskmasters! These things teach a technical discipline that most workmen never dreamed pos­ sible! The simple truth is to work with a proficiency such By J.M. Huckabee that no test run is needed. My mode of work has never changed CLOCKMAKING BITS CMC, FBHI over more than 40 years. I urge every workman to strive for the same goal. A6()«t... Test run for proof-of-rate is another thing. We may also reduce the efforts in that task. I test movements with the spring more than eight days down, and again on full wind. This only requires a few minutes, with the object being func­ TEST RUN & REGULATION tion. Rate is checked for a day or so at mid-wind, and again for a week for rate. Difficulty in rate adjustment may extend the test period. I urge each craftsman to conduct his work so that a 0: What do you consider a reasonable test run test run for function is unnecessary. Don't disturb the pendu­ for a clock after an extensive repair? What are your methods? lum needlessly so that the end result can be achieved quickly. Again, I believe we should attain functional reliability by skills and workmanship, and rate by test run. A: A reasonable answer may be different with dif­ ferent workmen. We have to satisfy two conditions. One is reliability of operation, and the other is reliability of rate. I find proof of rate to be my primary reason for the test run. My background is in commercial and industrial If you have a subject that you would like J.M. Huckabee time equipment, where the problems are very unique and dif­ to address in a future article, send it to "Ask Huck," c/o Horological Times, 3700 Harrison Ave. Cincinnati OH ferent. The job is on the customer's premises, work space, 45211. ' ' and lighting is often poor, pressures of travel distance and time increases personal stress, tools are limited to those in

44 Horological Times/March 1990 WATCHMAKERS: WHAT ARE YOU WORTH?

by

Donald R. Loke

ince I wrote my article "Watchmaking-A New Fu­ to that of a doctor's or lawyer's? Where did we go wrong? I ture" (June '89 issue, p. 16), I have received various feel we went wrong because we allowed the stores to dic­ Scomments on it-99% of which were positive, and 1% tate the prices instead of the professionals who were carry­ negative. That 1% stuck in my mind for quite some time. ing out the work! I couldn't understand why this 1% would never recommend Watchmaking is one of the highest skilled, under­ this career to their sons and daughters. So after one particular paid professions in the world. It's time we changed that! conversation, I found out why. Why is it the clockmaker can charge fair prices for his work, It seems this watchmaker could not make any money yet the watchmaker cannot? Do they charge by the pound? in his profession, and his son told him he wanted a career in No. They have just kept the ball in their court, and there's which he could make money. I asked him how much he a perception that people have come to know. They feel a charged for an overhaul. He quickly replied $12-$15. I sugges­ clock is bigger than a watch, so therefore, it's going to cost ted he raise his prices if he is not happy with his income. His more. reply nearly took me off my chair. He said this is all his ac­ A clockmaker must be very skilled in order to per­ counts would allow him to charge. form all the adjustments in a clock, especially the more com­ Since there are very few out there who are capable of plicated timepieces. Today he is compensated for it. There was repairing watches, and becoming fewer each year, and every a time when there were fewer competent clockmakers than store you go into today is looking for someone to do work watchmakers. Well, times have changed! It's time a watch­ for them, I'd think that the shoe would be on the other foot. maker's income matched his skills. This gentleman is doing the store a favor by doing their work What is wrong with the stores making only 40% on a and the watchmaker should have the right to dictate his or repair and paying the watchmaker 60%, or even more? The her prices to the store owner. There is no reason why he or stores are offering a service to their clients and should not she cannot live a comfortable life and be happy with his or try to make a huge profit on that service. They should use her profession. The skills needed to repair these fine time­ that service to draw more clients into their stores because pieces requires a good amount of education. We watchmakers they can service what they sell. This fact alone gives them a should be justly rewarded for it. competitive edge. Other stores who cannot find someone to How much does an automobile mechanic charge per do their repairs have to rely solely on the manufacturers' hour today? We certainly have more skills than he. Did you service centers which can take awhile until the watch is re­ know that a watchmaker's salary 40 years ago was comparable turned.

BUY e SELL e HIRE e RELOCATE e LEARN e FIND

A Classified Ad in HOROLOGICAL TIMES is an Inexpensive Way to Get What You Need!

March 1990/Horological Times 45 Pickl_e Barrel

Marshall F. Richmond, CMW

Replacing Missing or Broken Stones

n repairing jewelry, a good bit of time is spent replac­ Many of these rings are cast settings and made very daintily ing broken or missing stones. It takes a lot of experi­ with the prongs over the stones very light. Already some are Ience to be able to identify genuine color stones; for coming in for replacement that have probably been hit on this reason it is good to have an understanding with the cus­ something, causing them to loosen. Many of these were sold tomer what kind of a stone will be used to fill an empty set­ on a promotion basis and were mass produced to meet the ting with no old stone to go by. price. If a broken stone is still in the setting and you can't When prongs or settings have to be replaced on these identify it, and the customer demands a stone identical to the rings that require application of heat, the other stones must be original, you can remove it and send it to a stone house. They removed. If more than two or three have to be removed and will be able to identify it and more than likely furnish a re­ reset, you could be getting into more than the cost of the ring placement if it's a standard cut. If not a standard cut, there are to repair it. The most practical way to handle this type of re­ stone cutters that can furnish a replacement custom-cut like pair is to send it back to the original manufacturer, for they the original. You should withhold quoting a price until you get cast the mountings by the hundreds, and no doubt buy the an estimate from the stone cutter or stone dealer. When you stones by the thousands at a cost that is a fraction of what you do, contact the customer with a price quotation. Matches and would have to pay. Many times they will repair or replace the special cuts are much more costly than requesting a specific ring at a small cost, even sometimes for free as a goodwill stone in the size and shape that is a standard stock item. Syn­ gesture. If you can't handle it by sending it to the manufac­ thetic stones are available in most any standard size and shape, turer, this is what you may be in for. and are usually harder than genuine stones (except rubies and If you have to remove ten stones that are genuine, sapphires, which are of equal hardness). Many synthetic stones they may not be cut uniformly. Therefore, these should go are even more attractive than the genuine, and much less back in the settings that they came out of, as they were orig­ costly. inally hand fit to the setting. Reprong the broken or missing Sky blue topaz stones were very popular this past prong(s), then check very carefully for other prongs that ap­ Christmas season, and many were sold in various patterns. This pear weak. Either strengthen them or replace them, then reset stone is similar in appearance to an aquamarine but much less the stones. This can be a very expensive repair. Considering expensive. I've seen them in multi-stone rings with many com­ that if you are setting the last stone and a prong breaks off, binations of round, marquise, rectangular, pear, and oval then all the stones will again have to be removed in order to shapes. Many of them have a larger center in the above-men­ replace the prong. In case of one or two larger genuine stones tioned cuts, with surrounding small round stones of the same surrounded by melee diamonds, only the genuine stones have material, or sometimes surrounded by diamonds in melee sizes. to be removed, as the diamonds will stand heat if they are

46 Horological Times/March 1990 properly cleaned. If the ring is dipped in a solution of boric A chart was published in this column in the January '90 issue acid or borax and alcohol and this is burnt off, the stones and of Horological Times that gives round diamond sizes to milli­ the mounting will be protected from oxidation. meters. There are also charts showing different shapes of cut Mothers' rings and other multi-colored stone rings stones as well as listings of standard sizes of the different cuts. (sometimes referred to as family rings) usually use synthetic Another chart shows diamond carat sizes to milli­ stones. Since these are often low or moderately priced, the set­ meter sizes of pear, marquise, oval, emerald, and heart-shaped tings and mountings are usually 14K/10K gold, or even in the stones. A formula is given for finding the carat weight of less expensive sterling silver. I have all 12 birthstones in the colored stones, and a chart shows the characteristics of 15 dif­ round synthetic shapes, in stock sizes from 2mm to 6mm. ferent genuine stones, providing the information necessary to Most of these stones will stand heat, so it is not necessary to use the formula for figuring the approximate carat weight for remove any of them to replace or retip prongs. Therefore, colored stones from measurements. This also tells the typical the cost of repair can be held to a nominal charge. Also, reactions to various jewelry procedures when handling jewelry there are pins and necklaces made with the same idea in mind, containing them. These charts are a big help in figuring costs using the birthstones of the different family members. The for making replacements. For instance, if you have a setting same rule applies to the replacement or repair of these, pro­ that measures 5.13mm in the seat where the diamond is miss­ viding the stones are synthetic and the settings karat gold or ing, the approximate size of the diamond would be .50 carat, sterling silver. If genuine stones are used, then care must be or 'h carat. You must always keep in mind when using charts used in repairing settings, for other than rubies or sapphires that the sizes and information are approximate, for diamond the genuine stones wi 11 not take heat. In many cases, these weight can vary due to the depth or thickness of the diamond. also can be sent back to the original manufacturer for repair. I mentioned earlier that with genuine stones in re­ Otherwise, be careful in pricing repairs. You have to assure pair assortments, all stones of the same diameter were not uni­ yourself of a profitable repair for yourself and a durable re­ form in thickness (even girdle thickness), so it is very possible pair for your customer. in trying several stones of the same or close diameters, a re­ Stone dealers usually have repair lots of genuine placement can be found that is a proper fit. It is then only stones. These contain several of the most used sizes, and are necessary to bring the prongs over the girdle to make it secure. priced at a much lower price per stone than if they are ordered Even though you order a certain diameter stone, the diameter individually. They are available in the most popular genuine can vary because stones are usually ordered by millimeter sizes stones (ruby, sapphire, opal, emerald, amethyst, cultured and half sizes (such as 2mm, 2'hmm, 3mm, etc.). It could hap­ pearl, and oftentimes others). These repair assortments will pen that you'll order a 3mm stone and the fine measurement usually pay for themselves with two or three repairs. Ano­ could turn out to be 3.1 mm or 2.9mm; in most cases any one ther advantage is that upon opening a repair envelope to make of the three could be made to work by a slight alteration of a repair or estimating a repair, if you have the material on the setting. Although synthetic stones are more uniform in hand to repair the settings and the replacement stones, the job diameter, they will sometimes also vary in diameter by a frac­ can be done and completed without interruption. It is costly tion of a millimeter. to have to lay a job back and order material. Four- and six-prong settings for round stones are not Another problem that is confronting us today is the so critical in having the exact stone diameter to fit, but in the minimum order policies of suppliers. Some have a $25 mini­ case of multi-stone rings the size should match as closely as mum, and any order less than that is automatically that possible the other stones in the ring. These settings can have amount; others, however, will have a service charge of $3.00 the prongs spread for larger stones and sometimes bent closer to $10.00 if the order is less than their declared minimum. together for smaller stones. However, the amount of variance These things have to be taken into consideration when figuring is limited to fractions of a millimeter either larger or smaller. the cost upon making an estimate. After altering the size of the setting, a setting bur with the Sizes of stones play a big part in ordering replace­ same diameter as the girdle of the stone will round the prongs ments. A good vernier caliper or a millimeter gauge will usual­ as well as cut a seat for the stone. ly suffice for a tool to measure stones or settings where the Stone setting is a very important part of the replace­ stone is missing. It is easy to get the diameter if the stone is ment of lost or broken stones. It is well to try and analyze prong- or bead-set, but bezel-set stones are hard to measure why the replacement is necessary. Is it because of a weekness without removing them. Pear or marquise stones are some­ in the setting, rough usage, or even error in the previous job times difficult to measure if the ends are covered to get the of setting? Make sure before setting the replacement that the length measurement. However, if the width can be measured, setting is in good enough condition to let you set the stone se­ the length can be determined by looking up on standard cut curely. Make sure the seat is cut so the girdle of the stone sets stone charts which will tell the other measurement. Pear, mar­ evenly around the girdle; this will reduce the chance of break­ quise, and oval stones are measured for width at the widest age when the prongs, beads, or bezel are tightened over the point. edge. The stone, when set, should be level in the setting. Diamonds are referred to on carat and fraction of a An attractive, durable repair or replacement is a sign carat size, as well as by points. Knowing that carat is weight of good craftsmanship, which makes for happy customers and that 100 points = one carat, then 50 points = one half and a good income. carat, and 25 points = one quarter carat. Stone settings in the findings catalog are sometimes listed in carat or fraction of a carat size, and you may want the setting for a colored stone.

March 1990/Horological Times 47 SELF-WINDING WATCHES

Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, * FNAWCC

THE BRAIN-MATIC

single rotor system automatically winds both the time and alarm mainsprings in this alarm wristwatch move­ Figure 1 A ment manufactured by A. Schild of Grenchen, Switzerland. The watch, known as the "Brain-Matic," is also avail­ able with a quick-setting date and day and stop-seconds ("hack") device. As in most watches, these two springs also can be hand wound if desired. The frequency of the balance is 28,800 vibrations an hour, or eight beats a second. Since this calibre had popular acceptance, instruction in its maintenance is in order. (These still are seen in repair shops today.) Figure 1 shows two views of the uncased movement, calibre 5008, founded on the basic movement, 5001. Schild has unitized its various sections so that ser­ vicing a watch with so many features is comparatively easy. In this watch, the rotor unit can be dismantled alone; or the time automatic winding device can be dismantled as a unit, as can the alarm unit (Figure 2). When these three units have been removed, the basic movement, calibre 5001, appears as an ordinary stem-wound movement (Figures 3 and 6). This idea is founded on the basic movement system, with the calibre 5001 being hand wound, and calibres 5004, 5005, 5007, and 5008 each progressively including more features. This is best shown graphically in Fig­ ure 4. Calibre 5008 has the following features: day, date, self-winding time and alarm trains, quick calendar, and time setting. It measures 1314 lignes (30.40 mm) in diameter and 7 .60 mm high. The alarm hammer has two "heads" so that both SERVICING/DISASSEMBLY strike the resonating pin set into the gong-plate for a (fully (All numbers listed are the official parts numbers and parts wound) duration of 8 to 10 seconds at a loudness of 68 phons names, and may be used for ordering.) and 57 decibels, measured from a distance of about 16 in. After you remove the case back, use a pointed tool or Since the resonator or gong is contained within the movement tweezer to press upon the setting lever pivots at point "A" in and is independent of the case, casing complexities normally Figure 6; at the same time exert an outward pulling on the associated with such watches and design selectivity are great­ crowns. These points are shown in Figure 6 with the basic ly minimized. movement for clarity. Next, loosen or remove the case screws. Figure 5 shows how various hand-setting and hand­ If the watch comes with a case ring, remove that. winding alarm and calendar setting operations are performed, Remove the movement from the case and remove the hands using calibre 5008 as an all-inclusive model. and dial. Replace both stems and crowns.

48 Horological Times/March 1990 Figure 2

Alarm unit Automatic unit

Deaignation of Dia- Height Winding op- AS 3 meter Calendar second fine- caliber in Fre- Mechanism In Alarm device regula.- Caliber quency Move- Name Lignes mm Alarm Day Date Correc ting number ment tor device

~ lM <( :I 5001 Ult 5,25 I. HZ STOP a: - @] =f 1 111 .... 28"8 ~ ~ C1 ~ 5004 13\t. 7, 60 0 ~ @] 4, C1 STOP ~ u :i 5005 131' 7, 60 0 l oAvl @] =42 STOP :I ~ ~ ~ I z 5007 131' - 1. 60 @] STOP a:c 0 ~ =f1 Ill C1 ~ 5001 • 13\l 7, 60 0 ~ I OAYI @] =f2 Q STOP ~

Date corrector by rotation of winding-stem Day and Date corrector by rotation of 41 =f2 winding-stem Hand winding Automatic winding ~ ~ Figure 4

I III WINDING BY HAND CORRECTING THE DAY

Crown in position 1 Crown in position 2 Crown in position 2 Winding the basic Correcting the date by Correcting the day by movement by hand turning the crown to the turning the crown to right the left

alarm mechanism 1 I I 11 WINDING BY HAND SETTING THE ALARM Figure 6

Crown ln posi tion 3 Crown i n position 1 Crown in position 2 Setting the hands and Winding the alarm Setting the alarm by stopping the second mechanism by hand, turning the crown to alarm release blocked the left. Turning to the right has no effect. Figure 5 Alarm ready to be released

March 1990/Horological Times 49 REMOVING AND DISMANTLING tion of calibre 5001, its basic movement, calibres 5004 and THE AUTOMATIC WINDING ASSEMBLY 5005 (Figure 4) will not contain the extra wheels 1575 and Refer to Figure 7. Loosen the oscillating weight bolt 1588 (interchangeable with 1482 and 1488). These wheels screw ( 51491) and slide the bolt (1491) back. This will allow which will wind the alarm spring as well appear under cali­ you to lift off the oscillating weight (1143/ 1). Removing the bres 5007 and 5008 (shown on the left in Figure 7). two screws (51142) will let you remove the automatic winding To automatically wind the ordinary movement, the assembly. reverser (1535) is required, since the oscillating weight winds Remove the screws (51141), and remove the lower the time side mainspring only when it swings clockwise. It bridge (1141) of the combined automatic-winding unit. Now winds the alarm spring only when the weight swings counter­ remove its remaining components. clockwise. If the weight were required to wind both springs at In Figure 7 the automatic winding device ( 1141, the same time and in any direction, the resistance of both 1142, etc.) is shown in two exploded views ; one on the right, springs at once would negate the swings of the oscillating the other (containing more parts) on the left. Actually, they weight; hence, each swing must wind in a separate direction. are one and the same. This watch does not contain two auto­ matic winding devices. This figure shows that, with a varia- (Please tum to page 53)

Figure 7. Movement mounted with auto­ matic device in ex­ ploded view.

cal. 50041 5005 cal. 5007, 5008

51141

~48 I ~48 ~428 1575 1 j" ~28

*ci31535 r

r..•....

50 Horological Times/March 1990 Paints and Finishes for the Clockmaker

by

Robert B. Little, CC

his article is in response to a request in the "Bulletin Paint development took another step forward in the Board" regarding nonyellowing lacquer that can be 1950s with the introduction of acrylic-based lacquers and Tused for protecting clock parts (October '89, page 46). enamels, offering more gloss, brilliance, durability, and service One of my hobbies over the years has been automotive restor­ life than their predecessors. Clear coating was introduced to ation and refinishing, and I thought it would be beneficial to enhance gloss, depth, and durability. write about the different finishes. Polyurethanes: The most recent breakthrough came There are several different categories of "clear coat" in the late 1960s and early 70s with the introduction of poly­ finishes that are available and can be utilized successfully in urethane-based finishes. These products offer the greatest the clock trade. Most people aren't made aware of these prod­ brilliance, shine, and "wet look" appeal of all finishes. They are ucts since they are generally available only through jobbers or also the most chemically resistant, tough, and durable finishes auto parts stores. available. However, they require activation with a polyiso­ Automotive paint manufacturers whom I have used cyanate activator and demand proper safety equipment for include Acme, Ditzler, Dupont, and Martin-Senour. A prime application (respirator, gloves, eye protection, etc.). I can as­ recommendation that I'd have for anyone purchasing materials sure you that inhaling vapors will cause nausea and other would be to stay with one brand. Manufacturers will tell you health problems, both short- and long-term. that their primers, paints, solvents, activators, catalysts, etc. Other products have been developed for specific are engineered specifically for their own products and should enamels, such as "hardeners," "gloss additives," and "per­ not be used with other brands. Th is is very good advice since formance packages." These products add performance to the product-mixing could result in a substandard finish. enamels, improving overall gloss and durability. Before getting into specifics, a brief discussion of the The clear coating of painted surfaces has been around types of paint will help to clarify the subject. for years, and further heightens the deep wet look of the sur­ Nitrocellulose Lacquer: This was one of the first face and adds protective qualities. Polyurethane clears pro­ mass-produced spray finishes utilized on vehicles, beginning vide additional depth and appeal, also adding protection from in 1924. Nitrocellulose lacquers dry quickly, apply easily, can ultraviolet degradation. These clear coats can be and often are be buffed to a high gloss, and produce a beautiful surface. applied to bare metal surfaces that have been properly pre­ However, it will tend to crack or craze with time if applied too pared, to retain shine and prevent oxidation (corrosion). Sev­ thick, and has low chemical resistance. Like any lacquer, it eral items need to be remembered here: can be dissolved or attacked by lacquer thinner and other 1. A primer is always applied under a color coat. The aggressive solvents, regardless of age. main reason for this is that paint by itself does not bond to a Alkyd Enamel: This product was introduced in 1929, surface as well as it could, and the primer acts as a "bonding and offered a more durable, chemically resistant finish than agent" between the bare metal and the color coat. The primer lacquer. The finish, when dried (actually cured). has a high also plays the important role of filling very minor scratches, gloss and does not require buffing like lacquers. Enamel, how­ producing a smoother finish and helping to retard corrosion. ever, reguires a longer time to set up and can accumulate more 2. Paint pigment actually strengthens the paint (like dust, dirt, and airborne debris before it is dry. Enamel, unlike reinforcement in cement). Clear coats are not as strong as the lacquer, cures or sets up by polymerization of the paint mater­ color coats, and can crack or craze if applied too heavily. ial along with solvent evaporation and can't easily be redis­ 3. Clear coats on a bare metal surface demand bet­ solved by the solvents as lacquer can. Lacquer sets up rapidly ter surface preparation since "everything shows." by solvent evaporation only. Remember, lacquer is thinned Like color coats, clears have similar properties. The with a th inner; enamel is reduced with a reducer. clear coats I will discuss are acrylic lacquers, acrylic enamels,

March 1990/Horological Times 51 and polyurethanes. Very nice little dots can be cut out of masking tape Acrylic Lacquer Clear Coats: Lacquer clear coats are to cover bushing and plate holes. This is done by putting the probably the most readily available clears. Almost every man­ tape on a piece of masonite and cutting out plugs of tape using ufacturer of aerosol spray paints already packaged has a clear a very sharp tube turned out of a piece of appropriately sized coat available. These finishes give a nice nonyellowing finish. drill rod stock. Lift the dots from the plate with a sharp pin as They are, however, susceptible to solvent attack and require soon as possible after the last coat. thin, even coats. Applying them too quickly can trap air and 3. Measure all liquids very accurately and mix in a evaporating solvents under the drying surface, causing a dull­ clean container. Pour the mix in a solvent-rinsed paint cup ing or flecking to occur called "solvent popping." These utilizing a throwaway filter funnel available from the paint products are readily accessible, require little equipment supplier. cleanup, and dry quickly to the touch, thereby trapping lit­ 4. Follow manufacturer's recommendations exactly. tle dirt. Apply paint in a well-ventilated, explosion-proof, room tem­ Acrylic Enamel Clear Coats: Enamel clears aren't perature area. Most paints usually require 2 to 3 medium or as popular as lacquers because they take a good bit longer to ful! wet coats with a 5- or 10-minute "flash time" between become dust-free (when dust no longer sticks to the paint). coats. This pause between coats allows solvent evaporation, Depending on temperature, this could be 15 to 20 minutes or helps prevent sags and runs, and avoids blushing and solvent more. Enamels require time to cure (polymerize) and stay soft popping of the paint. Do not exceed the pot life of the paint for a day or more, and can mar easily. If a clear is prepackaged (the time before it sets up and becomes unmanageable). in an aerosol can, it can't be enhanced by a hardener addi­ 5. Let the paint dry or cure in a dust-free area. The tive. If the paint is prepared and applied with an air-propelled paint must cure properly before put into use. DO NOT wax or spray gun, a hardener or polyurethane additive can be util­ seal ANY painted surface without allowing at least a 90-day ized, decreasing drying time. Catalyzed enamels will be dealt curing time. Waxing a freshly painted surface will seal the with as polyurethanes, since both must be mixed and aren't paint, stop solvent evaporation and curing, and will cause the available in an aerosol spray-can form. Catalyzed paints only finish to go bad. have a useful application life of 2 to 6 hours, and will become 6. Clean up all equipment and properly dispose of unworkable after that time. spent solvents and any leftover paint mix. Therefore, polyurethane finishes activated by a hard­ Again, I would recommend that you pick out and ener-catalyst are the most troublesome in that they require ap­ utilize one brand and avoid product mixing. Most paint job­ plication equipment. In other words, they must be mixed and bers have shop manuals available that highlight all products, applied with a separate spray gun. However, they are the most and usually have an excellent application and troubleshooting rewarding in that the finish is a superior, high-gloss, wet look, section. with a chemically resistant surface that can't be beat. This I use Dupont finishes for all of my work. Specifical­ type of finish, especially on a 400-day clock base, gives a finish ly, I use Dupont Centari clear polyurethane enamel 780S, ac­ that you will find yourself looking at just because of its tivated with 782S Centari Activator, and reduced with 8034S beauty and gloss. It still looks wet, but is extremely hard and Acrylic Enamel Reducer. I also use Dupont Lucite Acrylic durable! Lacquer Clear Coat, thinned with 3696S Acrylic Lacquer There are many nice sized spray guns available that Thinner. Dupont states on these product containers that they give excellent results. Most common are the external mix are to be used for their intended applications, and any other spray head syphon feed gun utilizing a separate (i.e. air com­ use is at the consumer's risk. Keep in mind that clock sur­ pressor) air source. The self-contained electric high pressure faces remain in a controlled environment and so they don't spray units available were designed with house paints in mind, take the abuse and beating that an automotive finish receives. and will not spray these types of materials. They cannot Remember that these products are geared for the handle the aggressive solvents utilized. automotive trade, but are easily applied to the clock trade A very nice, low-cost unit is the "Pre-Val" sprayer needs. All paint manufacturers label their products "for pro­ manufactured by the Precision Valve Company. These sprayers fessional use only." They may not endorse product use on, are sold in automotive and hardware stores and feature a gradu­ say, clock plates because that is not the market their product ated glass container that screws onto the replaceable propel­ is geared and tested for. However, everyone knows metal fin­ lent unit. The Pre-Val sprayer produces a very fine manage­ ishes have been clear-coated for protection for years. able spray that is equal in quality to a very expensive airbrush. I would suggest utilizing a polyurethane clear for non­ They are also very easy to clean up and get used to. movement related parts, because of their gloss and durability. General procedures to follow when clear coating a I would also recommend acrylic lacquer for movement parts metal clock plate, base, pendulum bob, etc., are: since they can be readily removed and redone if scratches 1. The item to be painted MUST be very clean and occur. Before you use these products on clock parts, try them dust free. Once clean, do not contaminate with fingerprints, out on test areas. The best assimilation (and cheapest) is to oil, or grease. A small speck of oil or grease will cause the fin­ put aluminum foil around a plate or disc, shiny side out, and ish to "fisheye" or "crater." The grease or oil will cause the practice spraying. Keep the gun 6" to 10" from the object finish to avoid the area, leaving a definite, unacceptable flaw. and spray with even, continuous motion from left to right. ALWAYS remove ALL old finish first. Stop spraying after each pass and begin spraying before the 2. Mask off all posts, oil sinks, etc. Cover anything next pass, overlapping each pass by 50%. Keep the spray head that you don't want the finish on. parallel to the surface at all times. Practice makes perfect, and 52 Horological Times/March 1990 you will soon be producing excellent results! the mainplate under the barrel. Next remove the alarm ratchet Manufacturers' addresses where you can get more screw (5415), the ratchet wheel (7418), and the alarm click information on products and application methods are: spring (7434). Remove the alarm bridge screws (57154) and lift off the alarm assembly bridge (7154). PPG Industries Martin-Senour Company Remove the remaining components. Ditzler Automotive Finishes 5422 Dansher Road 2155 West Big Beaver Road Countryside, IL 60525 DISMANTLING THE WATCH MOVEMENT P.O. Box 3510 Carefully release the mainspring's power (Figure 8). Troy, Ml 48084 Acme Paints Remove the balance bridge (121/4). There is no need to pry 101 Prospect Avenue this off. After removing the balance bridge screw (5121), turn Dupont Company Cleveland, OH 44104 the movement over on the bench and let the balance and Refinish Sales bridge drop out. Wilmington, DE Remove the pallet bridge screw (5125), the pallet bridge (125), and the pallet (711). Other fine paint manufacturers are available, and many jobbers Remove the ratchet wheel screw (5145), the ratchet selling these products have their product shop manuals avail- wheel (415) , and the combination click and spring (434 ). able over the counter for a small fee. Remove the bridge screw (5105), the bridge (105), and the barrel (182). Now turn your attention to the combined bridge (118). Remove its screws (5118) and the bridge. Turn the SELF-WINDING WATCHES movement over on the bench and allow the combined bridge (Continued from page 50) (118), the escape wheel (705), the sweep second wheel (227), and the third wheel (210) to drop out. Remove the center wheel bridge screws (5126) and TO REMOVE AND DISMANTLE the center wheel (206). Next, remove the two crown wheel THE ALARM ASSEMBLY screws (5420 and 7420). Notice that these are both 1eft­ See Figure 8. Carefully let down the alarm mainspring. threaded as indicated by their multiple slots. For removal, Remove the two alarm unit screws (57100), and remove the you must turn them in the opposite direction of normal entire alarm unit (here shown assembled). Above this illustra­ screws. Remove the crown wheels (7420 and 420). tion, this unit is shown dismantled in exploded views. Part 2 will continue with dismantling and servicing Remove the alarm bolt (7496) which is positioned on procedures in next month's Horological Times. 'iiLII3

Figure 8 Movement 5415 5415 bridge side in ex­ ploded view.

~118v . . ~

221 I I 0

s 26, 5126 ~ 1

57 50

March 1990/Horological Times 53 Paul D. Wadsworth

DO YOU JUST BELONG?

f you live in the north as l do, you have been spend­ Annual dues are $10. 00, and Charter Membership ing a lot of time inside and thinking about what you may still be obtained. UNITED JN A WI YOU CAN PROTECT could be doing outside when Spring arrives. One thing YOUR BEST INTERESTS AS A WATCHMAKER . .. ALONE that I never seem to get enough time to do is read. This YOU CAN CONTINUE TO MAKE YOURSELF A TARGET winter I found some old copies of our state newsletter. I FOR INCREASING PUBLIC ABUSE. thought I would share these articles with you. In the Empire Horologi.st of March 1950 I found a Just think of how far we have come in 30 short poem that is just as appropriate today as it was then. There years. Here we are today joining together to put on regional is a reference to George Scheer's verse titled: seminars and national meetings, all working for the same interests. A couple of months ago it was suggested that per­ DO YOU JUST BELONG? haps it should be a requirement that all who join a local guild Are you an active member, the kind that would be missed, should also belong to the AWI. This same idea seems to have Or are you just contented that your name is on the list? been in the plans when AWI was being formed. What happened Do you attend the meetings and mingle with the crowd, to it? Think about this and let your delegate know how you Or do you stay at home and crab both long and loud? feel. Do you take an active part to help the cause along, One of the things that I said I would do last month Or are you satisfied to be the kind who just belong? was to get a copy of the official form for motions to be There is quite a program scheduled that means success if done considered by the affiliate chapters out to your representative. But it to be accomplished needs the help of everyone. I have also decided to give you the format here so that any So come to meetings regular and help with heart and hand, member of AWi, regardless of whether or not you belong Don't be just upon the list, but take an active stand. to an affiliate chapter, can have an input to the organization. Think this over member, are we right or are we wrong? I will see to it that any motions that are sent to me will be Are you an active member, or do you just belong? put before the affiliate chapters annual meeting. The motion will require a second by someone present at the meeting in Another interesting article came from February 1960 order to be acted upon. The motion format is to start with titled "The Present Status of AWI" which reads: the date, then state the motion and finish with "motion made by," and include your name and address and any local affilia­ Jn June of 1960 will be chartered the first national tion. In order for these to be presented they must be typed watchmakers organization at a convention in Chicago. It or printed legibly. is to be known as the American Watchmakers Institute. It I sure hope that everyone has been putting away the resulted because of demands and an overwhelming vote in price of one or more repairs each week for their travel and favor of it by the members of both of the older organiza­ education fund. My schedule for this year sure looks busy. tions-the HJA and the UHA ofA. First is the Mid-Atlantic Technical Conclave in Lancaster, Two ways to join are listed. One is through your Pennsylvania, May 3-6; then comes the AWi annual meeting local or state organization, the other is as an individual IF in Cincinnati, Ohio, June 22-24; and then our state's annual YOUR AREA DOES NOT HA VE A PRESENT LOCAL OR convention, October 5-7. That doesn't leave much time for STATE ORGANIZATION Jn other words, the emphasis any other vacation plans. is to be on a fully integrated organization embracing the three entities.

54 Horologi.cal Times/March 1990 Assoc1ATION NEWS

ARIZONA NEW YORK The Arizona Clockmakers and Watchmakers Guild held a At the December meeting of The Horological Society of New dinner meeting on January 16, 1990 in Phoenix. Guests York, Joe Borella, vice president of the material house, DRS, Terry and Addie Smith, representing the Tucson Guild, were addressed the membership. The subject was "Interrelationship welcomed. Between the Watch Material Distributor and the Watch Re­ It was announced, with profound sadness, that pairer and How They Can Help Each Other." Joseph G. Baier, Ph.D., CMC, CMW had passed away suddenly Mr. Borella described his background and the process on January 14, 1990. Dr. Baier had served not only as Presi­ by which he acquired DRS, the financial aspects of the pur­ dent of the guild in 1976-77, but was an active member to chase, how they expanded the business to five times its orig­ the last. He served nationally as a director and officer of inal size, and their basic principles of operation. AWI, taught bench courses, and authored horological books and articles. WISCONSIN The program for this meeting was a tribute with each The Wisconsin Horological Society will hold its annual con­ member recalling his own special memory of Dr. Baier. Most vention on April 27, 28, and 29, 1990 at the Inntowner in of his life was spent as a Professor and Dean at the University Madison, WI. Programs include Gerald Jaeger doing a slide of Wisconsin. He used these talents of academia in his second presentation on the Atmos clock, suppliers putting on demon­ love-the field of horology. He was appreciated for the gen­ strations of new equipment, Robert Gruen giving a talk on old erous gift of himself, his enthusiasm for horological mysteries, Gruen watches with some on display, Gerry Pettera will put for precision craftsmanship, for the encouragement he gave on a computer seminar teaching the basics about computers to all who were interested in clockmaking and watchmaking, and how to apply them to their business, and Fred Burck­ and for the professionalism he brought to our industry. He hardt will also be on hand. will be greatly missed. For more information contact Deborah Kohn, 124 E. Henry Clay St., Whitefish Bay, WI 53217; (414) IDAHO 332-9045. Martell R. Grover, owner and operator of Grover Jewelry in Rexburg, Idaho, died on January 4, 1990. Grover was 73. He was a member of Intermountain Jewelers of America and served on their board of directors from 1967-73, Ameri­ UPCOMING EVENTS can Watchmakers Institute, National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors, and a charter member of the Gem State The Horological Association of Virginia Watchmakers Guild for whom he served as a director. He and was listed in Who's Who in the Jewelry Industry and in Who's The Virginia Jewelers Association Who in the West. Survivors include his wife, Zell, and two Annual Convention sons, F. Martell Grover and Gail Steve Grover, also of Rex­ April 6-8, 1990 burg. Embassey Suites - Richmond, VA Missouri Jewelers & Watchmakers Association INDIANA Annual Convention The Horological Association of Indiana's 1990 Spring Work­ April 27-29, 1990 shop program will feature two new seminars at each of the Holiday Inn - Lake Ozark, MO two workshop sights, in Jasper on April 22 and in Lafayette on May 20, 1990. Wisconsin Horological Society Annual Convention The American Watchmakers Institute will bring April 27-29, 1990 Jim Broughton and his new Retrofitting and Casing Seminar Inntowner - Madison, WI to each of the two workshop sights. At the same time Jon Arizona Clockmakers & Watchmakers Guild Alexander and David Christianson of the Horological Asso­ Annual Convention ciation of Indiana will be featured. They will present an all-day May 19-20, 1990 seminar on the repair and servicing of the combination analog/ Scottsdale, AZ digital display watches by such makers as Seiko, Pulsar, Lorus, ESA, Miyota, and Citizen. Kansas Jewelers Association Annual Convention Each course will be run at the same time and par­ June 1-3, 1990 ticipants must choose the course he or she wants to attend. Holiday Inn - Olathe, KS The American Watchmakers Institute will take reservations for the retrofitting course (AWI members have preference) and the North Carolina Watchmakers Association Annual Convention Horological Association of Indiana will take reservations for June 1-3, 1990 the analog/digital course (members and non-members wel­ Holiday Inn North - Raleigh, NC come). The April 22nd workshop in Jasper will be held Nebraska & South Dakota Jewelers Association at the Jasper Holiday Inn, US 231 South and S.R. 45 South, 85th Annual Convention (812) 482-5555. In Lafayette, on May 20th, the workshop August 17-19, 1990 will be at the Howard Johnson Plaza, State Road 26 at I-65, Kearney Ramada Inn - Kearney, NE (217) 447-0575.

March 1990/Horological Times 55 SCHOLASTICALLY

SPEAI{ING By J. L. Jerue, CMW

Watch & Clock Department of State Technical Institute

he history of State Tech dates back to 1946 when tensive work on the watchmaker's lathe followed by several The Michigan Veterans' School commenced opera­ weeks of hairspring manipulation. During this initial semester's Ttions. At that time World War 11 veterans were trained work, the student is introduced to the theory of the count, in a one-year program of horology. The school, once under wheel-controlled strike clock followed by the repair of one the auspices of Western Michigan University, currently has training movement of that type. 17 trade areas with a student population of about 300 and a Second semester objectives include the diagnosis and budget of more than $4,000,000. Most of the clients live on repair of eight-day strike, chime, alarm, cuckoo, and 400-day campus located on a beautiful, rural property of 32 acres. timepieces. Integrated into the practical work are appropriate These clients, almost all of whom are handicapped, are di­ theory courses. rected to the school through Michigan Rehabilitation Services. The last three semesters involve pocket and wrist State Tech is state owned and operated and is a part of the timepieces including antique pocket, standard, auto, date, Michigan State Department of Education, so most of the trade and chronograph with introductory related studies for each instructors are employees of the State of Michigan. type. The Watch & Clock Department offers a five-semester Obviously, no course on horology would be complete program of study. The first semester is one of skills enhance­ without thorough related and practical work on electro/me­ ment designed to develop the watchmaker's touch by ex- chanical timepieces from the Hamilton 500 to the latest S.M.O. Throughout the five semesters the students work extensively on the watchmaker's lathe, doing advanced pro­ jects including clock repivoting, staff alterations, staff removal, Has Your Address Changed? etc. Also integrated into the watch and clock program is a sec­ tion on basic jewelry repair including filing, polishing, and hard soldering. Please Notify The program is designed to confront the student with AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE all the broad theory and repair situations met with regularly in 3700 Harrison Avenue the trade. Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Due to the increasing demand for watch- and clock­ ------makers, for the last two years our graduates have all had jobs prior to completion, with over half of these working prior to Name~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ graduation. Currently our July 90 graduates have jobs and will Address ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~- City, State & Zip Code ______be working prior to their graduation.

56 Horologi,cal Times/March 1990 New Products and Literature

CONTINENTAL AND AMERI­ For more information, FREE CALENDAR CAN SKELETON CLOCKS contact American Reprints Co., FROM GESSWEIN by Derek Roberts P.O. Box 379, Modesto, CA A special free calendar with high- The skeleton clock probably is 95353; (209) 667-2906. 1ighted show dates is available considered by many to be the from Gesswein. New products for most fascinating of all clocks. It plating, weighing, measuring, cast­ displays, by means of its fretted­ ENGLISH LANTERN CLOCKS ing, polishing, and testing are out frame and lack of any protec­ by George White shown in this new brochure. In tive case other than a glass dome, This book is a definitive study of addition, there are substantial its innermost workings. There­ the history, mechanism, restora­ savings for a limited time on fore, this type of clock attracted tion, and conservation of the lan­ several of Gesswein's most popular the attention of some of the finest tern clock. Its in-depth research products. makers, particularly those work­ into the clockmakers gives a fas­ To obtain your free 1990 ing in France from 1760-1860 as cinating insight into life in the Show Spectacular brochure, it enabled them to display their 17th century, and it establishes a order #890-0845, contact: skills so completely. It was for clear framework for dating and lo­ Gesswein, Catalog Dept. 34, the same reason that it was popu­ cating the manufacture of indivi­ 255 Hancock Ave., Bridgeport, lar with their wealthy clients, dual examples. CT 06605. who could show off their latest The greatly improved un- acquisitions so perfectly. derstanding of the subject gen- Casie's model AW-21 U watch. A typical example of this erated by this readable book will is the amazing clock made by Sar­ result in a fundamental reappraisal ton for the Duke of Lorraine, the of lantern clocks, both with re- dial of which swings to and fro so gard to value and their social that wherever you are sitting in context. This is a book not just the room you can see it clearly. about clocks and clockmaking, Other examples are the glass­ but throws new light on life and plated clocks which apparently work in the 17th century. have no frame and often go for For more information, six months at a single winding, contact American Reprints Co. and clocks which show not only (address above). the time but also such things as day, date, month, moons, age and phases, sunrise and sunset, the time in other world locations, and CASIO'S WORLD TIME even the equation of time. Many ANALOG/DIGITAL WATCH of these are more than clocks­ This new watch from Casio fea­ they are great works of art. tures unique analog and digital Numerous examples, including timekeeping, with a digital dis­ the products of countries such as play for the time, year, month, France, Holland, Austria, and date and day, plus hour and min­ America, are included and fully ute hands which are synchronized illustrated, frequently in color, in with the digital display. It pro­ this book. There is a chapter on vides the user with world time for modern skeleton clocks that 29 time zones, with a city dis­ shows that fine clockmaking still play for 100 preset times and 29 is very much alive and well. programmable times. The home ERNEST BOREL'S NEW CHRONOGRAPHS Derek Roberts operates time/world time function can be Ernest Borel is introducing a new collection exclusively equipped a world-renowned business in an­ used in both the analog and digital with mechanical movements. The watch at left (G14577) features tique clocks and their repair in modes. It also features an auto­ Valjoux handwound movement, 30-minute recorder, small seconds Tunbridge, Kent, 30 miles south calendar, three world time alarms, hand, and date calendar; all-steel, two-tone, or 10-micron goldplate of London. He is a liveryman of a stopwatch function, hourly case is water-resistant to 30 m. At right is a self-winding model the Clockmakers Company of time signals, and a countdown (G 13076), with circular date calendar and dial apertures for day, England, and has written several alarm. It is Model AW-21U, and month, and moonphases; the case is steel, two-tone, or 10-micron previous books on specialized as­ retails for $89.95. goldplate, water-resistant to 30 m. Its movement is visible through pects of horology. Book size is Contact: Casio, Inc., 570 the transparent mineral-glass case back. 9"x12", hard cover, 288 pp., with Mt. Pleasant Ave., P.O. Box 7000, Contact: Ernest Borel, 4911 Pawnee, Shawnee Mission, KS 124 color and 125 black and white Dover, NJ 07801; (201) 361-5400. 66205; (913) 236-6900. illustrations. Cost: $79.95.

March 1990/Horological Times 57 BOOK REVIEW

CONTINENTAL AND AMERICAN SKELETON CLOCKS by into sections devoted to the contributions of each European Derek Roberts, 8~x 11", 24 7 pages, 239 clocks illustrated, country as well as those produced in America. The largest some in color w/augmentary photos. Pub. 1989 by Schiffer section of over a third of the book's contents rightfully covers Pub. Ltd.@ $79.95. those made in France, first made there in the mid-18th cen­ tury. Derek Roberts' first book on skeleton clocks, British Skele­ Some of the most respected names in French horolog­ ton Clocks, published in 1988, was well received. He included ical history-Breguet, Lepaute, Berthoud, Janvier, and Ver­ some French skeleton clocks in his initial work because it neuil, among others-produced such clocks without need of was necessary to the history of these fascinating timepieces. the cabinetmakers' art. Verneuil is given much credit as being For a long time, many sophisticated collectors looked among the first to introduce some of these exquisite examples. askance at these showy timepieces. I recall that many years Every clock pictured is an amazing tour de force. The ago, when the late Donald deCarle visited America sponsored ornamentation cleverly and artistically designed to be part of by this writer, I expressed a wish to enlist his help in collect­ the working innards, supported by equally executed frame­ ing some skeleton clocks with odd escapements, music, and work, as well as the numerous complications (indicated by complications. Mr. deCarle chided me for having such a their scrollwork) are a study in themselves. plebian taste. He wasn't alone in this attitude, as many other Aside from the main section on French clocks, Eu­ English collectors felt likewise. However, these fascinating rope's representation stems from Austria, Belgium, Holland, and necessarily beautiful mechanisms did appeal to the Ameri­ and . America, too, is nicely represented. can collectors, possibly for their "Merlin syndrome," attrac­ During the 19th century England produced the tion to things mechanical with gears, levers, springs, cams, and greatest number of such clocks, already shown in Roberts' . their visible action. As a result, some of the finest and most earlier volume. These European clocks are excellently photo­ unusual examples of such clocks wound up on the west shore graphed, some in color and many with augmentary photo­ of the Atlantic, sold at very reasonable prices. Norman Lang­ graphs showing important details or escapements, each a clock maid's fine collection is an example of this, and in his lectures of museum rarity and quality. he relates how this attitude enabled him to acquire some out­ There are great wheel clocks, many running the re­ standing examples, some of which occupy space in both of maining train and escapements for 30 days to a year on one Derek Roberts' books. winding. There are astronomical clocks with orreries, turning This exodus of English and continental skeleton clocks horizontal dials, ornamental pendulums, Berthoud pendulums, soon awoke the British collector. The advent of the quartz and compound pendulums. There are clocks with balances, watches and clocks with their plastic cases, modules, and many with perpetual calendars, equation of time devices, movements were introduced with their dull looks. The Swiss grande sonnerie, and musical clocks with bells and flutes. countered with their high-end-priced watches and clocks with Clocks with odd escapements constructed by their makers so open, glazed backs to reveal the mechanics, and in many cases, that these can be observed are depicted, along with special skeletonized the dial sides as well. This might have been a fac­ drawings of their action illustrated in isometric, progressive tor in hastening the awakening to the appreciation of skeleton­ views. These drawings are by David Penny, famous horological ized clocks as well. As a result, a great many of these are now illustrator, and John Martin. Crane's torsion clock (American) being sought in the United States for "repatriation" for a action is the work of Penny's pen. horological homecoming. Some of the clockwork pictured is so involved with a In preparing his earlier work, Roberts had gathered myriad of wheels and intricate mechanisms that together with such a wealth of information and photographs of the most the lacework fretting of the framework it still is diffucult to unusual and beautifully made clocks from all over the world. make out the various functions, despite the very clear, large He wisely divided these into two separate volumes-the latest, photos. the subject of this review, separating the first on British­ Holland's clocks have musical sections with bells, produced skeleton clocks. flutes, and other devices. Belgium's clocks are pictured as part The Royer-Collard book, Skeleton Clocks, published of a collection of Dr. S.P. Lehv, who started collecting these many years earlier is a standard work, but only a few clocks many, many years ago, an active aggressor at auctions. Clocks which appeared then are repeated here, and fewer in Roberts' from the very fine collection of America's Richard Odmark are first volume, which enhanced and revealed very many not also included, as are some from the late Arnold Kotis of New covered in Collard's book. York. This present volume covers a vast selection of very at­ Skeleton clocks made by Motel, the famed French tractive, complicated, and ingeniously made clocks whose me­ chronometrist, prove that even this genius could not resist chanisms are made accessible to the eye by the artistic removal making some with large, many-toothed great wheels, shown in of metal from its plates so artfully designed. The plates them­ these pages. selves were especially created in ornamental designs, yet ac­ There are year-going clocks with numerous mainspring commodating all th:e wheels, cams, levers, pulleys, and springs barrels coupled in tandem and necessarily sturdy, supported which themselves were often highly polished and ornamented, in artistically fretted plates, some from the collection of the their gear-spokes in geometrically patterned style, yet perform­ Museum of Science et metiers in Paris. Glass plate clocks in ing precise functions. wheels which are set directly into heavy-duty glass plates Most of the clocks pictured have not appeared in that show their large diameter great wheels with delicately other texts to my recall. Mr. Roberts too has divided the book executed crossings take up many welcome pages.

58 Horological Times/March 1990 One clock shown by three illustrations, the work of The lantern clock with its quickly recognizable form a father-and-son clockmaking team (Geiser) in Neuchatel in was the first domestic timepiece as evidenced in the back­ the early 19th century, claims "perpetual motion," and de­ grounds of many famous period paintings. This domestic clock fied explanation for many years. Its mystery is revealed here in underwent subtle changes in its 200-year history. Although detail. Its great wheel of 1~ feet in diameter contains 24 rol­ the introduction of the pendulum made inroads into its prime lers which were articulated to assist in the appearance of per­ position, most older lantern clocks had their escapements con­ petuity. verted to accommodate this superior timekeeping unit. Some Austrian clocks reflect the French influence even in pendulum additions were centered between the plates and the skeletonizing of some of the five plates and wheels in their were in the form of the flukes of a ship's anchor, its wide tall, handsome, wood-cased regulators, whose dials and main swing protected by the addition of windowed "bat's wings." plates have been artistically skeletonized. The author divides the life of these clocks into three America is well represented-firstly by Aaron distinct periods, 1580-1640; 1640-1660; and 1660-1700. Crane's torsion pendulum clocks, whose "walking pawl" es­ While the author shows what is believed to be the earliest lan­ capement is shown in photos and in progressive drawings of it. tern clock still in existence (dated 1602), earlier paintings Ives' wagon spring clock, and Olive Marsh's beautiful time­ show these as background subjects in Holland in the late pieces are included as are those by Silas B. Terry. Giroud's 16th century. Many Dutch Huguenot clockmakers, to avoid "Cosmochronotrope" (c. 1879) is shown in five photos, as persecution by the occupying Spanish, emigrated to England. well as with a large, full-page drawing in exploded view. Among these were the respected craftsmen Nicholas Vallin Reproductions of Harrison's early chronometers are and Michael Nowe. Mr. White considers these two as the included in a section entitled "Modern Skeleton Clocks." "Fathers of English Lantern Clocks." One of Nowe's clocks­ Some are products of prize-winning examples at the annual dated 1588 and signed "Frauncoy Nowe fecit London"-is competitions of the NAWCC . However, none are included shown. Another pictured is by Vallin, and is dated 1598. made by a constant winner-Gerhard Hutter-who last year The bubonic plagues of 1563 and 1595 deeply af­ was the first other than the honored name of the prestigious fected the clockmakers, Nowe, and part of his family. A third "Dana Blackwell Award for Clock Excellence." Neither are plague in 1603 killed over 33,000 people, 670 of whom were the excellent examples of fine complicated clocks at NAWCC Dutch. (Vallin himself was included, as were two of his jour­ by Jauch and Bell included. neymen and his two daughters; Vallin's widow and a ten-year­ Since we are mentioning important exclusions, Den­ old daughter survived.) The Dutch clockmakers' influence was mark's Jan Olsen's world's largest skeletonized clock (and still strong and ably carried forward by other native London world's most complicated) in Copenhagen's City Hall, nor the makers. beautiful two-pendulum, complicated clock in Besacon's ca­ By 1620, the English lantern clock had completely thedral are not in the book, but very deserving of inclusion. evolved. The earliest known lantern clock, one by Robert However, this book is an important addition to the Harvey (c. 1620), shows some Dutch influence. However, in horologist's library. For those who yearn for such rarities, the appendix to this large book and evidentally a late discov­ ownership of this book is a welcome consolation. ery, is one that the author makes note. Henry B. Fried By 1631 the London clockmaking community, af­ ter some years of aggressive action, was successful in having Charles I grant a Charter for the formation of the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers. This eventually strengthened the ENGLISH LANTERN CLOCKS by George White. 8~xl I", clockmakers' trade, and provided security as well as their fi­ 8 color and 850 b/w illustrations. Pub. 1989 by Antique Col­ nancial position. lectors' Club, Ltd.@ $79.50. Other makers of lantern clocks became well known. Examples of their work are illustrated, each revealing indivi­ The lantern clock's position in horological history and develop­ dual characteristics. These in turn often used professional en­ ment is very important and occupies a dominant position graving sheets, paintings, and architectural influences to shape equal to the tall-cased clocks, the advent of the pendulum, and and decorate their clocks. Some of these professional designs the English and French bracket clocks. were Italian, French, German, or Dutch. Mr. White's back­ George White, a highly respected authority, is also a ground in art spurs his perception of these subtleties in design, Liveryman of the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers and and he passes these observations onto the reader to aid in currently their librarian, among other prestigious offices of identifying and dating various lantern clocks. kindred organizations. Mr. White has assembled photos and the Frets and finials, engraved shadings, grotesque faces, backgrounds of hundreds of these attractive timepieces whose chapter rings, the use of birds, dolphins, and other creatures popularity spanned from the late 16th century into the last aid in the confirmation as to makers and dates of these clocks. half of the 18th century. Aside from what can be termed a Classical pillars, hands, alarm discs, half and quarter hour comprehensive report on this clock, it also covers such a time divisions, bell straps, dial construction, train and striking ar­ span in history that many sociological, historical, political, and rangements, aid in pointing out the evolutionary changes technical changes took place. George White's accounts include leading from one period to another. much of these peripheral influences, including the various epi­ With the introduction of the pendulum and the an­ demics and plagues which affected these clockmakers and their chor escapement, timekeeping took another leap forward. products. Many of these beautifully made clocks were converted to the

March 1990/Horological Times 59 short pendulum and the anchor escapement. the restorer. Lantern clocks with mainspring and fusee, 20th The author does not place any date on the introduc­ century restorations-conversions, and reconversions are tion of the "winged doors," but he strongly hints that these with hints on how to recognize these. are later additions. Many such clocks are pictured. Various Reproductions, replicas, and forgeries take up an ad­ sketches of count wheels, wheel arbors, hammer counters, and ditional chapter. Dismantling and special repair techniques for springs are shown as an aid to the researcher and the reader in such clocks are nicely explained. This includes the proper identifying such clocks. bluing of hands. An appendix shows casting marks left by Examples of elegantly made clocks include some founders which still exist on many clocks, and the author from the shops of William Bowyer, Haban, Ireland, Clason, says these have never been listed. However, Mr. White has Fromanteel, Tompion, Jones, and others. traced and named some as well. The effects of social, historical, and political changes An additional appendix is a report of a clock at which changed the style, quality, and technical applications Agecroft Hall, Richmond, Virginia, presently located in the during the second period (1640-1660) are shown and de­ Smithsonian Institution at Washington, D.C. This clock is scribed. The plague (again) of 1660, and the Great Fire and its reported by the author to be the earliest known true English economic slump are highlighted by contemporary illustra­ lantern clock. This is in contrast to one shown earlier in the tions. book making the same claim; probably a post-manuscript find. Lantern clocks with nests of bells, pear-shaped pen­ The third appendix reprints the 1622 petition of the dulum bobs, chain and rope weight supports, and the Huygens' London clockmakers, and a fourth appendix is the analysis endless rope system are included. Provincial lantern clock­ of some 17th and 18th century lantern clocks. A fifth appen­ makers, Bristol makers, and those to the south are included, dix is of an early 17th century lantern clock at Aberdeen Uni­ as are close-up views of lantern clocks with tic-tac anchor es­ versity. capements. Export of English clocks in the 18th century in­ The book ends with 19 pages of footnotes to num­ cludes those in the western colonies at that time. bered references in the text. A fine bibliography representing Construction systems with layout sketches show in­ authors from around the world and a seven-page detailed dividual differences. Gilding of frames and dials, weights, index completes this volume. pulley and chains, and back spurs are explained together Other books on lantern clocks-by Hana (1977) and with illustrations. Details of dial trains, going trains, striking Ullyet (1974)-have appeared. This massive volume might be and alarm systems, and musical trains are illustrated along considered the most encyclopedic and informative, and would with accompanying text. be a welcome addition to the serious collector and restorer. A special chapter entitled "Alterations, Restorations, and How to Identify Them" should be required reading for Henry B. Fried 'UCill

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March 1990/Horological Times 61 Classified Ads

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62 Horological Times/March 1990 WATCHMAKER SCRAP WANTED Must be experienced on high-grade watches • Gold - up to 97% of market Watches Wanted and also quartz. Very high percentage of • Watch Batteries - cal I for quote Rolex work. Fine AGS store located in • Plated Watchbands - $12.00/lb. beautiful Roanoke, VA, a metropolitan • Gold Filled Bands - $27 .00/lb. area of approximately 250,000, in the • Gold Filled Watch Cases, etc. - $5.50/oz. Blue Ridge Mountains . 5-day week, with Also: • Optical Frames paid vacation , participating Blue Cross, paid life and disability insurance. All replies • 10k, 14k, 18k Jewelry will be held in strictest confidence. Call • Bench Sweeps collect to F. Alan Walter at (703) 342-2991 • Filters, Buffing Waste or write to Mr . Walter at P.O. Box 12906, • Bench Dust Roanoke, VA 24029. POSTAGE AND UPS REIMBURSED We desperately need for our retail Call 1-800-426-2344 In Connecticut (203) 372-0481 customers fine watches by: SPECIAL TV METALS Rolex, Patek Phillippe, Audemars Piguet, Books REFINING COMPANY Vacheron & Constantin, Movado, Gubelin, etc. 10 Bay Street Westport, CT 06880 We are paying top prices for any high quality, unusual or complicated AMERICAN REPRINTS CO . Wrist or Pocket Watches ***REVIEWED BOOKS*** (See page 58 this issue) When You're Ready to Sell a Fine Watch CONTINENTAL & AMERICAN SKELE- · WANTED Call us Toll Free 1-800-842-8625 TON CLOCKS by Derek Roberts. 288 pp., In Texas 1-214-902-0664 124 color illustrations, 125 B&W . . $79.95 Watchmaker's Tools ENGLISH LANTERN CLOCKS by Geo. Always prompt immediate payment! White. 538 pp ...... $79.50 Casting Equipment Wingate's Quality Watches NEW WRISTWATCH BOOKS Jewelry Store Inventory P.O. Box 59760 • Dallas, TX 75229-1760 20TH CENTURY WRISTWATCHES by Gold Filled Scrap Geo. Gordon. 355 pp., 200 pages of color illustrations ...... $180.00 Bench, timer, lathe, engraver, cleaning THE CLASSIC WATCH by M. Balfour. machine, hand tools, material and Loaded with information and lots of color crystal systems, buffer, ring sizer, pictures ...... $29.98 vulcanizer. New unsold mechanical SCANLON/AMERICAN REPRINTS CO. P.O. Box 379 Modesto, CA 95353 and old broken or unclaimed wrist and (209) 667-2906 pocket watches and clocks, neon Schools clocks . Gold settings, diamond rings, G.F. jewelry, etc. Watch bands, G.F. cases, and optical frames. Wanted To Buy Call/Write for Schedules JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL AVON METAL 40-24 62nd St. Woodside, NY 11377 SERVICE LTD. Phone (718) 424-2929 We pay 97% of market for karat gold scrap Quality Instruction Since 1945 (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, P.O. Box 17484 - (414) 351-0933 6. sweeps, silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour Milwaukee, WI 53217 • WATCHMAKING payment return mail! Ship insured/registered (17 months) mail to: AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, • WATCH REPAIR 253 King St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. (9 and 13 months) Established 1960. Phone (803) 722-2073. WANTED BY COLLECTOR: Antique horo­ • JEWELRY REPAIR logical tools. Wheel cutting engines and related • BASIC ELECTRONICS WANTED: Unusual American pocket watches/ machinery, fusee engines, quality lathes and Ideal Housing, Dining, Recreation movements. I buy entire collections, estates, equipment, old benches, books, clocks, cases, NATTS approved, BEOG available watchmakers' inventories. Over 25 years movements, workshops bought. What have experience of honest and reliable confidential you? Greg McCreight, Greg's Clock Shop, transactions. JON HANSON, Box 5499, Beverly 1336 Allentown Rd., Lima, OH 45805 ; (419) Hills, California 90210; (213) 826-7778. 229-4349.

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March 1990/Horological Times 63 Dates to Remember Ad Index

MARCH 1990 27-29-Wisconsin Horological Society Con­ American Perfit ...... 4 vention; lnntowner, Madison, WI. For 9-11-Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course information contact Glenn Gardner, (AWi); Atlanta, GA.* (608) 831-1883. Borel ...... 7

10-14-lntroduction to Clock Repair Bench 29-lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Cas-Ker Co. Inside back cover Course (AWi); San Jose, CA.• Bench Course (AWi); Little Rock, AR.* Charles Cleves ... . 21 11-Retrofitting & Casing Bench Course (AWi); Conover & Quayle . 21 St. Louis, MO.* MAY 1990 Davis Jewelers Supply . 23 18-AWI Southwest Regional Seminar; Los 34-Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Bench DRS ...... 3 Angeles, CA.* Course (AWi); Lancaster, PA.*

18-Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch 3-4-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course Esslinger Co . Inside front cover Repair Bench Course (AWi); Oklahoma (AWi); Lancaster, PA.* City, OK.* Gem City College. .... 16 34-Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course 18-lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair (AWi); Lancaster, PA.* Germanow-Simon. . 11, 13 Bench Course (AWi); Montgomery, AL.* 3-6-Mid-Atlantic Technical Conclave, Days J & S Jewelers. . 19 24-25-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Inn Lancaster, Lancaster, PA, (800) Course (AWi); Greensboro, NC.* 325-2525. For more information con­ tact AWi Cental. S. LaRose, Inc . . 25 24-25- Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Livesay's, Inc .. . 17 Bench Course (AWi); Albuquerque, 5-6-Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench Course NM.* (AWi); San Francisco, CA.* On Time Supplies . . 15 31-1-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course 18-22-lntroduction to Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); Seattle, WA.* (AWi); Alexandria, VA.* Ray Gaber Co .... . 17 31-1-Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench Course 20-Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch (AWi); Tucson, AZ.* Repair Bench Course (AWi); Detroit, Skyline Industries ...... 5 Ml.* Song's Watchmakers Supply Co. . 23 20-lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Swigart Co ...... 27 APRIL 1990 Bench Course (AWi); Lincoln, NE.*

6-8-Horological Association of Virginia and 20-Retrofitting & Casing Bench Course (AWi); Toledo Jewelers. . 14 the Virginia Jewelers Association Annual Lafayette, IN.* Twin City Supply . . 13 Convention; Embassey Suites; Rich­ mond, VA. Vibrograf USA Corp . 19 8-Retrofitting & Casing Bench Course (AWi); JUNE 1990 Philadelphia, PA.* Zantech ...... 9 1 ·3-Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course 19-26-17th European Watch, Clock and (AWi); Kansas City, MO.* Jewellery Fair; Basel, Switzerland. For information: 061-26-77-00. 2-3-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course (AWi); New York, NY.* 20-22-Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); Los Angeles, CA.* 10-Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair Bench Course (AWi ); Nashville, 24-AWI Annual Board of Directors Meeting; 21-22-Wonderful World of Gems; Veterans TN.* Radisson Inn, Greater Cincinnati Air­ Memorial, 300 W. Broad St., Columbus, port. Contact AWi Central for infor­ OH. Information: Robert Kell, 3848 16-20-Advanced Complicated Watch Seminar; mation. Norbrook Dr., Columbus, OH 43220; Radisson Inn, located at Greater Cin­ (614) 457-1838. cinnati Airport. Contact AWi Central for more information. JULY 1990 22-Retrofitting & Casing Bench Course (AWi); Jasper, IN.* 19-21-Research & Education Council Annual 14-15-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Meeting; Radisson Inn, Greater Cin­ Course (AWi); Reno, NV.* 22-Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch cinnati Airport. Contact AWi Central for Repair Bench Course (AWi); San Fran­ more information. 15-Retrofitting, Casing & Coil Repair Bench cisco, CA.* Course (AWi); Indianapolis, IN.* 22-AWI Affiliate Chapter Meeting; Radisson 22-AWI North Central Regional Seminar; Inn, Greater Cincinnati Airport. For 29-AWI Northeast Regional Seminar; Toronto, Omaha, NE.* information contact AWi Central. Canada.*

27-29-Missouri Jewelers & Watchmakers Asso­ 23-AWl's 30th Anniversary Celebration; Rad­ ciation Annual Convention; Holiday Inn, isson Inn, Greater Cincinnati Airport. *For more information on AWi Bench Courses Lake Ozark, MO. For more information For more information contact AWi contact AWi CENTRAL, 3700 Harrison Ave., contact Sharon Blair (913) 661-0084. Central. P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211.

64 Horological Times/March 1990 as· FACTORY FRESH QUARTZ MOVEMENTS BUY DIRECT AND SAVE!

SUB FOR ESA 578.004 (INCLUDES HANDS) ~ $795 ~ $695 !! $795 ESA 927.001 V238 C;i $795 ! $895 ~" ~ : :.~ $695 ESA 927.101 FE6320 • $695 (lO $995 Y481 3220 ~ $695 "'$795 •~oss V482 2030 SA369 Tl I MARCH

3-4 Cuckoo Clock Repair ...... ••..Cincinnati, OH 9-11 Advanced Clock Repair .. _ .. . . . _ _ . . Atlanta, GA BENCH Introduction to Clock Repair ...... •• . San Jose, CA 10-14 11 Retrofitting, Casing & Coil Repair . _ . . , .St. Louis, MO 18 AWi Southwest Regional Seminar ...... Los Angeles, CA 18 Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair . . • . . . • • . . Oklahoma City, OK COt/R~E~ 18 Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair , . . . Montgomery, AL 24-25 Repair of the Atmos Clock ..... _ ..• . Greensboro, NC 24-25 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair ... .. _ • . Albuquerque, NM AND REGIONAL SEMINARS 31-1 Repair of the Atmos Clock .. . . . __ . • . Alex andria, VA 31 -1 Cuckoo Clock Repair ...... •.. . . Tucson, AZ

APRIL The American Watchmakers Institute is sponsoring bench courses throughout 1990 covering the fol­ 8 Retrofitting, Casing & Coil Repair . . .•..Philadelphia, PA lowing subjects: 20-22 Advanced Clock Repair ...... Los Angeles, CA 22 Retrofitting, Casing & Coil Repair .. ••. .Jasper , IN 22 Useful Techniques: * Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair Mechanical Watch Repair . . ... _ . ••• . San Francisco, CA Instructor: Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CEWS 22 AWi North Central Regional Seminar . . . . Omaha, NE 29 Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair .•• . Little Rock, AR * Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Instructor: Robert Bishop, CEWS MAY * Retrofitting, Casing & Coil Repair Instructor: James Broughton, CEWS 3-6 Midatlantic Technical Conclave ...... Lancaster, PA 3-4 Advanced Clock Repair . . . . . Lancaster, PA * Introduction to Clock Repair 3-4 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair . .. . •.. . Lancaster, PA Instructor: Roland Iverson, CMC 3-4 Repair of the Atmos Clock ...... Lanca ster, PA 5-6 Cuckoo Clock Repair ...... _ ...San Francisco, CA * Advanced Clock Repair 18-22 Int roduction to Clock Repair _ ... _ .•• . Seattle, WA Instructor: John Kenyon, CMC 20 Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair ...... _ .. . Detroit, Ml 20 Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair ••.• Lincoln, NE * Repair of the Atmos Clock 20 Retrofitting, Casing & Coi l Repair .. ...•Lafayette , IN Instructor: Gerald Jaeger, CMW, C EWS, FAW I

* Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair JUNE

11 Instructor: James Adams, CMW, FBHI 1-3 Advanced Clock Repair . ...•••... . . Kansas City. MO * Introduction to the Watchmaker's Lathe 2-3 Repair of the Atmos Clock .•• _ • . .• . . New Y ork, NY Instructor: Jim Lubic 10 Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair ...• ... __ ..N ashville, TN

* Cuckoo Clock Repair JULY Instructor: James Williams 14-15 Repair of the Atmos Clock _ ...... R eno, NV 15 Retrofitting, Casing & Co il Repair .. __ .. Indianapolis, IN 29 AWi Northeast Regional Seminar _ . • ....Toronto, Canada

At right is a list of the seminars scheduled to be held during 1990, along with their locations. AUGUST 18-19 Repair of the Atmos Clock •• .•• , •••• Indianapolis, JN

SEPTEMBER If you are interested in information regarding any of these courses, please write to: AWi BENCH 15-16 Introduction to the Watchmaker's Lathe . . . Phoenix, AZ 16 AWi South Central Regional Seminar . . . . Dallas, TX COURSES, P.O. BOX 11011, CINCINNATI, OH 45211. The information will be sent to you as soon OCTOBER as it is available. 21 AWi Northwest Regional Seminar ...... Denver, CO