A Pioneer in the High Alps. Alpine Diaries and Letters of FF Tuckett
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Francis Fox Tuckett [et Rev. W.-A.-B. Coolidge] A pioneer in the high Alps. Alpine diaries and letters of F. F. Tuckett, 1856-1874 London, Edward Arnold, 1920 Extrait (pp. 123-139) du chapitre V concernant le séjour de F. F. Tuckett au Mont-Viso et dans les Alpes dauphinoises durant l'été 1862. Cette partie contient les extraits du journal avec les textes intercalaires et les notes du Rev. W. A. B. Coolidge. Note : Cette transcription respecte la convention typographique de l’édition originale. Les extraits du journal et des lettres sont dans une police plus petite que celle des textes introductifs et intercalaires de Coolidge. 1 July was a busy day, spent by Tuckett in making preparations for his great Viso and Dauphiné campaign. During this memorable journey Tuckett made (in his diary) eighteen admirable topographical sketches, eleven of which later lithographed privately, while three appeared in vol. I. of the Alpine Journal, fourteen in vol. i. of the German translation of Tuckett's Alpine articles, published in 1873 by Liebeskind at Leipzig, and two sketches in the first editions (both issued in 1863) of Ball's Western Alps, and of Joanne's Itineraire du Dauphiné, vol. ii. (eight sketches). His little photographed map of the Dauphiné Alps (reduced, with corrections, from the then unpublished French Government Map, and reproduced in Ball, p. 62) was another result of this journey, which ranks amongst the most important ever made in the Alps. Yet it would appear that Tuckett never again visited the Dauphine Alps. DIARY. Cols de Seylières and de Vallante. Tuckett and his two guides, with B. Peyrotte of Bobbio. 2 July. Rose at 6.30, packed, breakfasted at 8.30, and then out to the Observatory to get an observation. At 12 left for Pinerolo by rail. Arrived at 1.20. Had some dinner, and at 2.30 left by the 'bus for La Torre, which we reached at 4.15. A| delicious place. The " Ours " is a charming inn. A little after 5 I strolled up the road on the W. side of the Val Angrogna, and, bearing off to the left, struck a path which brought us out on thesummit of a hill, commanding one of the most exquisite views conceivable. Saluzzo appeared in the distance, and we made out the entrance of the valley of the Po. The eye ranged over a vatst extent of plain, which was most lovely. Gradually the clouds cleared off the mountains. We descended by another path, and reached La Tour at 7.30. Had some tea, with trout etc., and at 9 went to bed. A lovely young moon, and lots of lucciole. 3 July. Rose at 3.30, breakfasted, and at 4.30 started in a char for Bobbio, which we reached at 6.30. Here we engaged a porter [i.e. Bartolommeo Peyrotte], but had a long wait, as Perren left his passport at La Torre, and had to go back to fetch it, when we had gone some distance. At length at 8.15, we started, and at 11 reached Pra. Had dinner, and at 1 started for the Col de Seylières [9272 ft.], which we reached at 4, taking it very leisurely. The clouds cleared off, and the view of the Viso was magnificent. At 5 left for the Col de Vallante [9269 ft.], which we reached at 6.30. The weather exquisite, and the view of Monte Viso, etc. exquisite. At 7 started again, and a little after 8 reached the chalets of the Vallon de Vallante, a little above Pian Meyer. Had some chocolate, and at 10 went to bed comfortably in my bag. A short notice of these two passes, and a long description of the famous sleeping-bag is to be found in Tuckett's article in the Alpine Journal, i. pp. 26-28, reprinted in Pictures in Tyrol, by Miss E. Tuckett, pp. 115- 119. It should be borne in mind that it was only in 1861 that the Viso had been first ascended by W. Mathews and F. W. Jacomb, with J. B. and Michel Croz of Chamonix. Tuckett had taken Michel Croz with him probably because he had been up the Viso and had also visited the Dauphiné Alps with W. Mathews in 1860, his first journey in the Alps, as stated by Mr. Bonney in his Sketches in the High Alps of Dauphiné, p. 7. Next day, 4 July, Tuckett reached the summit of Monte Viso (12,609 feet) and spent the night there with his three companions, a daring experiment which, however, ended well. This seems to be the second ascent of the peak.1 DIARY. Monte Viso. Tuckett, with M. Croz, P. Perren, and B. Peyrotte. 4 July. Rose at 6. A lovely morning. Breakfasted on bread and milk, and at 8.15 started for the Viso with our porter. At 9.45 halted on some debris to rest. At 10.30 halted near one of a chain of lakes to have a second breakfast. At 11 started again, and at 11.45 reached the base of the steeper portion of the mountain. Here we halted to put on gaiters, and at 12 started again. At 1.45 halted to dine. View glorious. At 2 started again, and at 3.30 reached the summit. The view was most glorious, perfectly clear to the S. and W., but the plain was more or less covered with light fleecy clouds, and the Pennine Alps were entirely concealed by large masses of bright cumuli. I deposited a Casella's mercurial minimum, and one of his Philip's maxima in the cairn on the E. summit, and made sundry barometrical observations. Snow covered the upper ten feet entirely, and it was not feasible to pass to the W. summit. There can, however, be no doubt that the one on which we stood is the highest. Meanwhile, the guides and our porter from Bobbio, Bartolommeo Peyrotte, busied themselves in the construction of a gite for the night about 60 feet below the summit. The sunset was magnificent, the huge, pointed shadow of the mountain stretching away over the fleecy clouds which covered part of the plain, but already it froze, and at 8 we turned in. The night was cold, and at 3 fog and snow came on, which rendered our position very uncomfortable. It appeared to me that some of the mountains in the direction of Maurin to the S.W. were loftier than the Viso, but not so those S. of Queyas, as stated by Whymper. I gazed long, in order to discern the sea, but, though there was little or no haze in that direction, nothing was visible, though at one time I fancied I saw what might be Corsica. 5 July. Rose at 5.15, left the summit at 6, and at 7.45 halted at the foot of the steep ascent to breakfast. At 8.15 started again, reaching the chalets at 10.15. Had some milk, and at 2.30 started for Chianale. Soon we met three douaniers, and had to display our luggage. At 3.30 reached Ponte Castello [i.e. Castelponte]. At 4.5 Ponte Chianale, and at 4.50 Chianale. The valley from Ponte Castello is beautiful. Fine woods, meadows, and barley fields. Ponte Chianale is situated on the summit of a rise which commands a fine view. We spent the night at Chianale. In all probability Whymper's peaks " S. of Queyras " (i.e. Château Queyras in the valley of the Guil) are identical with those seen by Tuckett " in the direction of Maurin to the S.W." In any case,2 let it be stated at once that none of the peaks in either direction are really higher than the Viso, the loftiest being the Aiguille de Chambeyron (11,155 feet), on the E. side of the Ubaye valley, while opposite, on the other side of that valley, the Pointe de la Font Sancte (which is directly S. of the Queyras valley) attains a height of 11,057 feet only. Tuckett revised his opinion on 10 July (see below). DIARY. Col dell' Agnello. Tuckett with his two guides and B. Peyrotte.3 6 July. Rose at 4. Had some breakfast, and started for Guillestre via the Col de l'Agnello [9003 ft.] and Queyras [i.e. Château Queyras]. At 7.15 reached the Col. There is a fine view of the Viso from the Col, as well as from two points below it.4 The Rioburent is also visible. On the other side a grand view of the "Montagnes d'Oysans." At 8.15 started for the descent. The path is good, and the descent very gentle. A little below the summit we passed a préposé station. At Font Gillarde [i.e. Fongillarde], which we reached at 10.10, is the douane. In front, the view of the Pelvoux is fine. At the douane we were kept waiting some time for the officers to rise, but at 10.30 got away. At 11.15 reached Molines at the junction of the valleys of St. Veran and L'Agnello. At 12.15 reached Villevieille, and halted chez l'Elephant to have some lunch. At 12.30 started again, and at 1 reached Chateau Queyras. We had some trouble I in getting a voiture, but succeeded at last in securing a char, and at 2 started for Guillestre. From Font Gillarde to Molines there is a decent char road, and from thence an excellent road to Villevieille, where the grande route from Montdauphin to Abriès is reached.