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AUSTRALASIAN HISTORICAL ARCHAEOLOGY,I 6, I 998

The CanningStock Route: Desert to outbacktourism

GORDON GRIMWADE

The l700-kilometre long (CSR) crossesa remote part of WesternAustralia. It wqs : surveyed and constructed in the period 1906-1910 to provide accessto southern marketsfor the Kimberley region and used sporadically until 1959. Since the I 970s the CSRha.s become popular for recreotionalfour wheeldrives.Severalwellsandgraveshavebeen'restored',therouteadaptedforvehicularuse,andinevitably, there are limited instancesofvandalism. Therehqs beenno systematicarchaeological work on the stock route I despite its nomination to the Register of the National Estate. This paper provides a preliminary record of the wells, graves, and more recent material culture of the route. While it questions the well-intentioned private restoration work on the CSRit recognisesthe need to upgradefacilities in a remote but increasinglypopular part ofrural . The lack ofmonagement ofthis important archaeological site is consideredas a cqse study ofwhat k evident in many otherparts of Australia. The question is askedwhether heritageprofessionals ore dotng enough to promote historicol orchaeologt, site documentation,management and presentation.

Many north Australian stock routes cross vast tracts of inhospitablecounbry. Since the 1960s,when road frainsbegan to shift stock, the majority have been bituminised to allow for swift, efficient tansportation of cattle. Only a few stock routes remain undevelopedand remotefrom towns and wayside stores. '/ourr^o,o The Canning Stock Route (the 'CSR' to contemporaryusers) in Cenfral Westem Austalia was probably the most challenging of all Austalian stockroutes @ig. l). During the CSR's operationalperiod, therewas the township ofHall's Creek at its northern extremity; Billiluna , 177 kilometres south; and then virtually nothing until Wiluna 1594 kilometresaway. That isolation 6* sfuangedvery little, eventoday. Halls Creekand Wiluna havemodest facilities typical of many rural towns. Billiluna is an Aboriginal-owned cattle property and a township in its own right. A remote fuel drop LocationMap existsat Well 23, a mere 891 kilometressouth of Billiluna. CANNINGSTOCK ROUTE J[e QenningStock Route crosses about 1200kilometres of sand dunes. It skirts salt lakes and clay pans, passesthrough (l clumpsof statelydesert oaks ll oc as uarina dec aisne ana), titnds Fig. 1: Location Map. Not to scale. past weatheredsandstone ranges and through extensivespinifex (Triodia spp.) desert. In the process, it crossesimportant Aboriginal cultural landscapeswhich were aggressivelydefended popular recreationarea. Among all that its raison d'€he - a stock on more than one occasion. Whereasonce it was a poorly route - has been submergedin the web of listing processes. identified track linking a seriesof wateringplaces, it is now a Heritage listing looks set to remain in the 'too hard' basket for well-worn, but rough, single-vehicle-widthrack. a while yet. Listing, at least at the national level, has remained After winding its way from the semi-desertaround Billiluna unresolvedsince it was first nominatedin 1990. The Western Australian Heritage Council has yet to list the CSR at the State the CSR skirts the rugged Kuningarra Ranges@readen Hills) heading south to tackle several hundred kilometes of parallel level. dunesthe highestof which, betweenwells 4l ard 42, is 16.9 During a two-week overland trip in 1996, I had the metreshigh (Gard 1995:389).Occasionally the dunesgive way opportunity to undertakelimited documentationof someof the to areasofstately desertoaks (Allocasuarina decaisneana) alr.d historical archaeological resources and to consider the salt lakes. Durba Hills is now a popular campsite. Its shady implications of high levels of tourism activity on this fragile, setting alongside perrnanentwater is a dramatic change from linear heritagesite of obviousNational importance.This paper the nearby desert. Generally, however, the southem section of discussessome ofthose findings, considersfuture researchneeds, the CSR is less of a torture for humansand vehiclesthan the and discussesthe implications of tourism on this and similar northem section. It retains its spinifex and sparsetree cover, unmanagedculturally significant places. As such, only limited but the sand dunesare lower and more stable. historicalresources have been consulted. The paperis intended The historical archaeologicalrecord ofthe CSR is diverse as a commentaryoutlining key issueswhich are of concem both and now shows considslslle impact from contemporaryuse. to Australian historical archaeologyand to cultural heritage To date there has been neither systematic assessmentnor management.It does not purport to be a definitive work. That documentationof the CSR, Listing on the Register of the requiresfurther in-depthresearch which is beyondthe scopeof National Estate has presentedformidable challengesfor the this paper. AustralianHeritage Commission. Not only doesthe CSR cross Sincethe late 1970s,the CSR has becomea popular four- various Aboriginal traditional lands but it cuts through at least wheel drive recreationalroute. knpact on cultural heritagevalues one Aboriginal stone quarry and through several delicate, and hasbeen significant. Some route modifications have been made, poorly researched,desert ecosystems. It hasrecently become a some accesstracks 'improved', selectedwells have been

70 m

Fig. 2: Canningi 1906 expedition prepdres to leave Day Dawn (photograph courtesy Battye Library, ).

'restored', and at least one extra watering point developed WesternAusfalia in 1873. Their efforts took eight months. (GeorgiaBore). One might arguethat the CSR has become During that time they discovered Joanna Springs and crossed Ausfialia's longestplayground for outbacktourism. With around nearwhat was, later,Well 47 on the CSR. JohnForrest's 1874 1000 vehicles driving the route each year betweenMay and expedition, led him from Geraldton northeastfrom a point near August it certainly comes close to that claim. But even that what is now Wiluna to Weld Springs (later desigrated as Well act ivity h atlnleresthg-egnt empo rary arch aeo I o g i c al 9) and thence to the WesternAustralian border with South implications.Not least is the m-Annerin which the tenain is Austalia. Fonest later becamePremier of WesternAustalia tackledby heavily ladenvehicles and the abandonedequipment and a memberofthe first FederalParliament. Emest Giles passed and vehicleswhich dot the landscape. just north of Well 15 during his I 876 retum trip from Perth to (Giles Although most traffic now fiavels south to north, the CSR 1889). LawrenceWells led the Calvert Expedition in Central stock was actually constructedto bring cattle in the oppositedirection. of 1896.Despite his extensiveexperience Ausfrali4 the expeditionended in the deathsoftwo expeditioners sSeS. The original survey and construction was also undertakenfrom due to an inconect placementof the JoannaWell on Warburton's d for southto north: Well I is just north of Wiluna. One can,justifi ably, maps. In the sameyear, David Camegieset out to attempta dned argueabout which endis the 'start' ofthe CanningStock Route. crossing of WestemAustralia from south to north. His journey stern In this paperthe north to south direction has beenused. The led him throughthe BreadenHills andMt Ernestnear Wells 48 State reasonsare twofold. First, it was the routefollowed by drovers. and49. Secondly,it was the path we travelledafter joining the CSR at , the Billiluna. In 1906, , an accomplishedGovemment Surveyor,was commissionedto find a suitablestock route. The f the groupincluded cameleers, well builders,and support personnel. the HISTORICAL OUTLINE Headingnorth during May 1906(Fig. 2)they initially followed gile, industry dates from John Fonest's 1874 frack to Weld Springs. It was not until aper The development of the Kimberley cattle WestemAustralian gold October 1906that Canningand his team finally reachedHalls Dds, the 1880s.Concurrently, the southem and Kalgoorlie were booming. Meat Creek. After remainingthere until February1907 they setout rilar fields aroundCoolgardie was in short supply. Cattlemen argued for an overland route for the return trip. Two months later, at Well 40, several of the dted through country where cattle ticks could not survive. It was party were involved in a skirmish with local Aboriginal people. ded heraldedby severalchallenging overland treks by settlersand Both Michael Tobin, a well-borer, and his Aboriginal attacker nth stock. Notable amongthem was the MacDonaldfamily's trek died. Tobin is buried about300 metresfrom the well. |a9e from Goulburn NSW to Fossil Downs near Fitzroy Crossing. In selecting suitable well sites, Canning's party was l'hat Their travels took three years to complete.This substantially motivatedby a need to find: potable water at shallow depth; eof dwarfed,for example,the Jardinebrothers who took just over distancesbetween wells of about 25 to 30 kilometresand areas frve monthsto take cattle 2600 kilometresfrom , free of poisonbush (Gasrrolobium grandifl orum). )ur- Queenslandto Somerset,Cape York @yerley 1867:74). His successwas partially attributableto the efforts of his ues Inland Westem Australia attracted the attention of several Aboriginal guides. They, however, were subjectedto harsh rde, explorers in the nineteenth century. Peter Warburton'steam teatrnentfrom Canning.At a subsequentRoyal Commissionit :€n exploredan area from Alice Springstofhe OakoverRiver in was claimed,and provur, that Canningkept his Aboriginal guides

7l Fig. 3: Canning 1 908 expedition with camels loaded with well construction (photograph courtesy Bdttye Library, Perth). shackledto prevent them running away. Canning successfully Mapping Servicesurvey party, comprising Russell Wenholz, defendedhis approachpointing out that the survival ofhis entire Dave Chudleighand Noel Keally took just under f,rveweeks to party dependedupon the guides locating water. Without them, tavel the CSR. In 1977,the fust commercialtour completed his teamwas doomed. His defencewas accepted. the drive. In 1985,a BeachBuggy and a Citroen 2CV became In March 1908,Canning set out to constructthe wells. The the first two-wheel drives to complete the entire route. In years (again) party of 30 men were suppliedwith over 100tonnes of food and subsequent it has beenwalked, tackledby camel and ridden by bike riders. equipment,70 camels, and 250 goats (Fig. 3). In the first constructionperiod of 14 months, 3 I wells were sunk. The team ARCHAEOLOGICAL EVIDENCE was back in Wiluna by April 1910,having completeda fruther 20 wells. The CSR was once a string of wells extendingacross remote Tom Colewas oneof the first to take stockalong the CSRin desertlandscapes. The wells rangedfrom purposebuilt sfructures 1911. An earlier attempt, in that sameyear, by Christopher to adapted'nativewells' and a few natural springs.The 'track' Shoesmith,James Thompson, Fred Terone and 'Chinaman' was a standardstock route: a five-mile wide (eight-kilomete) ended disastrouslywhen they were killed, near Well 37, strveyed corridor linking watering points and stock transit yards apparentlyby Aboriginal people, a few monthsbefore Cole's at Hall's Creekand Willuna. journey (Gard I 995:3 54). For easeofdescription the historical archaeologicalevidence By 1926, the CSR was falling into disrepair. Two years is consideredas four elements: later tlre WesternAustralian govemment agreedto recondition l. the original route; the wells. William Snell,a landownerand skilledbushman was 2. thewells, including shafts and covers, hand windlasses given new wells werebuilt, otherswere cleaned, the task. Several and buckets,whip poles,troughs and fencing; had troughsreplaced, or had repairsundertaken to the fences graves, 'native andwell covers.Snell pulled out afterWell 35.His effortscaused 3. othermaterial culture, including forts, aburstof controversy.Canning, then working inprivate practice wells'etc.; and aged68 years,was askedto completethe refurbishment 4. the modernroute, including detours,dune crossings, (Gard 1995:93). Caruringand Snell had disagreedas to just abandonedequipment and reconstructedwells. which wells neededto be re-sited and which simply cleaned andrepaired. THE ORIGINAL ROUTE The last down the CSR from Billiluna was in The CSR was definedby Canningas an eight-kilometrewide 1959.It wasunder the directionofMal Brown. By that time the corridor. The prospectsof finding evidenceof use, either by routehad been used for 35 teams.of which 29 were from Billiluna Canning,Snell or the drovingteams are low. Given that drovers Station.Brown hadtaken I I of thesemobs @eckert I 994:map). only usedthe ffack 35 timesin 48 yearsevidence is, in any case. Gard (1995:86)writes that only 8 mobs were shifteddown the likely to be inconspicuous.Most of the linking track between CSRbetween191I and 193I andthatafurther20wereshifted the wells appearsto have been hidden beneathencroaching in the period 1932afi 1959. spinifex, blowing sand,and the contemporaryforu-wheel drive The CSRwas neglected for severalyears. In 1963 a National track.

72 With its more recent adaptationfor four_wheeldrive vehicles, the situarionhas ctranged using local timbers to reline_the dr;;aricafi. a defined single- well they decidedto usea rubber sidth track now linkJthe "f"*fy lining which is 1.2metre-s in diameter'anJ *"ril.-I" ;;;;;6", in the north, .oim io leng&s of particularlyberween Wells 2.4 metres'(Gard, 1995 :23f fn"i, 42 48 ;l;;rth of Well 51, the 1. beenapplauded contemporary&ack lies ""d by many tavellers fo, whom "iitrtr'n# outside the original, surveyeOcorridor. a reli"bfi;p;ly freshwareris For themosr part, not simply desirablebut however,the csi;;;i ilc *ioo, crucial. fne timUer'wirip"f pole has been the original .track' *iaio replaced with a surveyed metal. one. N"l*iifrrmiiig the valuable contribution of this work Having said that, rhe qusr1i., *it1r rega.Jl;;;;i., safety there of sjgnificanceis immediately may havebeen an calledto quesrion. Is astockrout, unfortunatetorr"of *.iu"oilgi"ul iofo.."tioo *hi;T;;;;broadly define( at the time of the and usedso rarelv. really reconstruction. ofherit"g" ,igrin._*? What makes ft:.C.Sn sigrificant, from In 1986,the AustalianAmry fitted an archaeologicalperspective, are the Well 33 with awinrtmin. initial suweying and consfructioo It co.ntinuouslypumps- water f.ut, ila it".pu.pose. Its length onto the adjacentground. The andremoteness, the personal modifications weremade pOru.iuf tne cnalenges after r r aborigin;ii"oir. A.a or,ni* of moving canle throughAarrn "o"iii[, in thg.cleatSandy Desert t"rruio, u""Jti?iourity of lCarAreel?:ti-h. inrenrion whohave re-establisheict those provide betteraccess to theaiR ;;jfri;it tooio uurouao, torvater in the future ivasLquestionabll. The appropriate but badlv planned. llltd_:.ir., adaptivere_use oflhe CSRis atso es the CarJs oote the original notable well has beenfloodei perspectivebecause of tle Oweiopment by surptuswater tom tie-windmiil (Gad rnnovauve,T:T 1f-:g:1route .designs,. of some r995:339). This needto balance WELLS contemporaryneeds with heritagevalue i's.norpecuriar to the canning st;;ki;;.-itirL iot"-"tioo"r dilemma. In Thewells determined temrs oftreritage man"C".;;,, ;;uld theroute for drovinglivestock. Canning,s useful have been originalwells were numbered,.qu""riJ$-iio_"routh ifarchaeoloeicalresearch had-pr"""jJ to north. all il" adaptationof subsequenrexpeditions. thesewells. ThJir modifi cation,without adaptedor aJJ"i watering has prior coclmgntado,r points.It hasbeen claimed "jajti"ra clearlyresulted in theloss;ir;;;iri;;;;h";jfi; that Can;;-i.iirt ,u"r, well data. identicalsfyle with in However, one c^ouldargue the onlv ;i*"hfffi; 1994) _ nroJifrl""tloo, will be (Fig.4). The archaeologicallrr-1a1nrh iDeckert regardedas examples oftern"of6gi"a evidencetenls io'connrmttris, io"ou;io-n andevolution althoughthere are so: futut:. In a prictical ,"nr", tli" *"ffU".g'"i variationsin the appropriatelyI oavellershas equipmentused (see r"rT;:"tooological reigned uppennost. Each A comprehensiveinventory well shaftmeasured 2 metes by 1.2 . of each well would be an 4 feet) mefres(6 feetby invaluableaid in both in area. Thedeprhs varied n"# Z.!S*.ies archaeod;Ja";;;;iti'on anone.it"g. inches) (8 feet6 significanceassessment at Well I I to 31.b5meh;404;"ii #.n*l rh. EaR;;;-"^pii"o. to turther Locally cut at well 5. maintenancework. That"f timberswere used to ino."_up m"-idh task is one wniJn-would take a locatedin of wells significant amountof time ienholz, unstableareas.^At most *"ft ,otrii.bering and resourcesil_was beyondthe evidentaltlough is still purposeofthis exploratory rreks to muchof it has,"r"nrf"llo iilrr" damage. visit. A mix ofnostalsia. Shafts ryleted andan understandable desire to improve and covers became the wells g.r biy 5g contemporaryfravellers, has resulted in ute. severalwells beine .uograded,. originally equipped In t'h" dr;i;i;; lJ ur" _oo"_ with two sheet-A"i. metar doors (again) no!_i'p.peaito nveted-Y:^l!,y"1: to light angleiron.. Till.il'ooes haved*A;; fghly. rhele83 ftrey ningeOt"_ outer edges reconstructionofWell and flush-fitted in the 26.wasmanaged by Hmf6q,,glr, whose middle. fn"rr r"*J u u#rry concemwas to use materials iqrluding the reduction which were'botn A'uraUtJanasafe. of-ev"p"i"ti"rt ;"f;; artire eti-;,,"tioo"fpr.poro While theoriginal plans of therisk of wildlife wereperused at length,adaptation was affin! in ani n;rilr6;" warer.The annropriare(card doorsfolded back flush lgnsidergd r bls,r z+;. r-roi, anLhaeotogica to theground on metal-stap hinges. Ia lEmote perspective,such a decision m::t cTes they were is causef[r, snengthinedby two aiugoo"fbraces ro Etures Well pierre "on.-*l she.etingwas 6, Sorings,was reconditioned :"1i1,h. alsoriveted. Others weie cross_braced tack' GeraldtonFour in l99l by the wrthtwo parallel cross_braces wneir oive Club.G;;;iii,il'i^g oo*n andan intemrediate cross-brace. nete) uoo The restorationat well o, ttowerrer,-usJ :yards u"-'ri".r tubewith dence

5

antmat powercd E wlrip pole rcpe

nand windlass \

post& raitguard Fig.4: Schematic cross-sectionof typical well site (not to scald ride rby vers ase, Een ring rive

IJ Fig. 5: Well showing remains of the windlass. Note also the two buckcts, section of water trough and closed well doors.

two parallel crossbraces as the frame. Hand windlassesand buckets

Each well was initially equippedwith a hand windlass comprising two 50 mm angle iron legs and an auxiliary supportingleg at right anglesto the main supports(Fig. 5). Each setoflegs stands1220 mm aboveground level. The 'neck'was about400 mm long. Bolts securedthe legstogether and the legs onto their timber supports. Width at the basewas 1280mm. A timber winding drum approximately 2 metes (6 feet) long wasused to retainthe wire cable. Winding handleswere usually frttedat eachend. Thesewere generally of circularcross section althoughboth anhexagonal winder anda circularsection handle were noted at Well 48. This well was constructedin 1929by William Snell. Each windlass was attached,by rope, to a sheetmetalbucket with a wroughtiron handle(Fig. 6). Contary to popular belief thesewere not identical althoughthey were similar in size and form (Table l). Uniformity ofbucket sizeis found only amongthose buckets which havebeen manufactured for the restorationwork on wells 26 and46. Oneofthe bucketsused at well 46 hadbeen left over from the 1983restoration of well 26 (Gard 1995:402). The differencein sizeofthese replacement buckets and those at well 6 is probably attributableto the fact they were producedby a differentgroup of enthusiasts(Gard 1995:231).The original buckets show a diversity of size, and thus capacity, which suggeststhat they were either producedin the field, were the resultofreplacement on a needsbasis or were,possibly, produced by a numberof different suppliers. Whip poles

The windlass system allows for haulage of relatively small quantitiesof water at a time. Largerquantities were requiredto watermobsofthirsty cattle.Whip polesare thus an integralpart of eachwell. They comprisea stoutpost about200mm thick of which somethree metres or so is aboveground. The postsare Fig. 6: Typical bucketfor use with windlass. Note rivetedjoint set at an angle to position the upper end ofthe pole over the shaft. A cast-fuonhaulage wheel is securedat that point (Fig. 7). Droversran a wire rope over this wheel and undera smaller

1n Tablel: Comparativetable of extantbuckets at Wells4 to 46,*showing dimensionsand approximatecapacity.

VrbllNo BLcket intdiam (mm) lergth(mm) Basalhent Approxwater Capacity(litres) Capaci$(gals) (mm) depth(mm) 4B 310 560 Na 6:.;', Lri .: g'" . i,LLi fl,$' .E:;ii .i ;i;7,iititFl,tf, .,. lillili$l4.l.i$gfi.iL $e$ii,:,irr i nfi'o I 322 565 30 485 39.5 8.7 10 277 604 30 535 32.2 7.1 13 278 605 30 535 32.5 7.1 285 605 30 530 33.8 7.4 21 270 600 AA 525 30.0 6.6 22 310 560 40 nla t' 2€,,,,,, ,.t ]::new, 280 eso Frt;ffiilitrti . ,,*t- i'8 ,t ::r: r$!irlilil RGtf tbb ,650 $75'r* 7,8 'i, ' . r' i ,,,,.i.ii '. : ;: ,fF!t, .288, . . 1iiSgQ;, :5,7S ,,,.-,,,r,= z8 27 320 520 ?n nla 285 610 30 nla 28 310 560 30 nla 325 562 30 nla 31 265 605 35 nla 32 280 605 40 nla 35 280 605 40 nla 36 272 600 35 nla .,.-f 285 610 30 423 27 5.9 41 270 610 40 575 32.9 7.2 44 305 570 15 500 36.5 8.0 45 310 570 30 540 40.7 9.0 ,ltl 280 , 650 zu.l,,...:.....,....'1t,,,, 35r4 ,,?$ etn 575 470 35.5 7.8

* \A/ells1 to 4A werenot Msited as theroad was closed drc to frooding.\Ablls 42 and47 werenot visited due to timeconstraints. Some measurementscould not be includeddue to artefactdeterioration (see note 'r/a' in tableabow). Maximurnwater depth was measuredas the distarpebetween the boftom of theholes made for thebucket handles and he baseof thebucket.

guide wheel bolted to a vertical post extendingapproximately Troughs 500mm aboveground and positionedseveral mehes from the shaft. The ropes could then be securedto haulageanimals at The troughswere all 13 metres (30 feet) long and of similar that end.A 200-litre canvasbucket was droppeddown the well, form. The sectionswere joined on site. The pre-formed filled with water and hauled to a position where the adjacent sheetmetalsections were transportedto the sitesby a team of Eoughcould be filled @eckert 1994). camels(Fig. 3). Most troughshave long since succumbedto natural deterioration. A funnel-like chute was fitted at the end Most original whip poles appearto have been constructed of the trough to direct flow from the of water as they from a singlelength of timber. Obviously,this would havebeen buckets were hauled to the surface and poured into the houghs. It is the strongestarrangement. Well l0 is an exception. At some worth bearing in mind that expeditious filling of the troughs stage,an extensionwas splicedonto the basesection. Whether would have beenessential. A thirsty mob of cattlewould have this was becauseof termite damage, breakage,or simply to beendifficult to control oncethev had smelledwater. extendthe length of the availablematerials is conjectural. Althoughtimber was usedinitially, the recentreconstruction of Fencing Well 6 incorporateda metal pole becauseof its more durable nature(Gard 1995 :23l). Timber post stumpsand decayingfence rails over the troughs areidentifiable locations. primarily Further researchis required to determinestructural elements at sevpral Thesefences were to protectthe from watered. of the whip-polesand the modificationsnecessary during field troughs damageas stockwere construction. While there are obvious engineeringprinciples OTHER MATERIAL CULTURE applicable, it is evident that some local variations were implementedin the field. Archaeologicalinvestigation into the A diversity of archaeologicalmaterial, somerecent and some sub-surfacemethod of adequatelysecuring the poleswould be pre-dating Canning'sjourneying remains along the CSR. of interest. Vandalism, fire and weathering are gradually affecting many

I) Fig. 7: Detail of haulage wheel on whip pole.

Fig. 8: Grave of Christopher Shoesmith and James Thompson at ll'ell 37.

Fig. 9: The remains ofJohn Forrestb 'fort' at Weld Springs. elementsof the CSR's material history. Some are discussed filtered thus reducing the risk of loss of water from evaporation below as indicators of that diversiw. (personalobservation, Cental DesertI 963). After use,the base was sometimes Graves backfilled with soil, again asa meansofreducing evaporation. The history of the three identifiable burials at Well 37 has been Canning changedthat. His team dug 6 feet by 4 feet vertical extensively documentedby the Gards (1995:352). George shaftswith timber shoring where necessary.This size and shape Shoesmith,James Thomson and an Aboriginal man called is consistentwith smallmine shaftsofthe time. It is noteworthy 'Chinaman'died at the well in April, l9l I while stock. that rectangularmine shafts were generally favoured by They were apparently attacked by local Aboriginal people. Australians and Americans while circular shafts were more vhip Precisely what did occur is not clear from the written record popularin othercountries (Lewis 194l:167). Clearly,Canning (Gard 1995:371).Their shallow graveswere discoveredsome and his successorschose to follow mining conventionsand monthslater. The two Europeanswere, accordingto one account, adopted those practices in well sinking. Rectangularshafts reburied in a single marked grave (Gard 1995:362). would, after all, have been easierto timber (M. Moore, pers However,Wally Dowling, a ,recalled, in 1949,that comm.). Shoesmith was buried northeastof the well and 'at the foot of THE MODERI\ ROUTE wattlenortheast is a communitygrave Thomson, a yellow fellow andfive niggers[sic]' (GardI 995:3 7 1). Shoesmithand Thomson The influx offour-wheeldrive vehiclesalone the is leavins were buried in a single gravemarked 'with a piece of tin from CSR its own unique footprint on the landscup.l White refuse the Well. It simply read"S & T", R.LP.This plaquewas found ani environmentaldevastation is minimal most travellers in 1967 and was handed to ... the Walkaway Museum near - seemto observethe recommendedpractice of removing inorganic Geraldton . Chinaman's grave is unmarked' refuse and burying organicmaterial thereare the inevitable exceptions. (Gard 1995:365).Following recentrestoration ofthe gravesat - Notable amongthese recent impacts is the modification Well 37, that of Shoesmithand Thomsonis markedwith a single to the vehicle track. post and rail fenceand a rudimentarytimber cross(Fig. 8). JohnMclernonwas killed duringan attackon aprospecting Detours parfy southof Well 37 n 1922. He was buried nearthe well a few dayslater. There is somedispute over the actualgravesite Various detourshave been implementedto provide travellers (Gard 1995:376-377).The identified site is marked with post with optimum opportunity to visit all the wells with minimal and rail fencing with a semicircular metal drum top identifuing backtracking. In some cases,short cuts have been made. In it asMclemon's grave, additionrealignments in somesections have been intoduced to moreaccurately follow the original route(Gard 1995:349)or to At Well 40 is the grave of Michael Tobin, a member of avoidextensive, bone-janing drives to locationsoflimited scenic Canning's1907 expedition. He too wasspeared by anAboriginal value or historical significance. It is an exampleof travellers' man who was reputedlykilled after spearingTobin. The grave commitrnentto the environmentthat there are few detoursclose was restoredin 1987 and incorporates'a marble crosswhich to the main route.For the most part the only detoursare where was supplied by the Mines and Water Supply Departmentin fwo vehicles,or convoys,have passed each other. A few metres Perth and erectedby the well team' (Gard [re]construction oftyre tracksand associated broken bushes are 1995:385). the only evidence of casual'off-roading'. JackSmith died of injruies a few daysafter falling from his horsenear Well 49 in May 1939.His gravehas also been restored Dune crossings andincorporates a smallplaque inscribed 'Jack Smith Died May The high dunes in the northern 23rd 1939 R.I.P.'. The plaque was 'cut out' by a workmate section with their steep approaches, soonafter Smith's death(Gard 1995:421\. soft sandand complexcresting need to be tackled with innovativetechniques. In hot conditionsthe desertsand Forts Ioosens.Traction is challengedand it is easierto bog a vehicle. To diminish this problem traffrc on the CSR has developedat ln 1874, the explorer and his party encountered leastfive differentapproach 'designs' (Figs l0-la). Low, frrn oppositionfrom local Aboriginal peopleat Weld Springs. He dunesmay be approachedstraight-ahead (Type l). No extended constructed'a stone hut, ten feet by nine feet and sevenfeet run-up is necessary(Fig. l0). A slight modification is evident high, thatchedwith boughs .... It will make us safe by night. in the 'Type2' approach(Fig. I l). Theinitial approachis parallel Being a very fair hut it will be a greatsource of defence'(Fonest to the dune to be crossed. Shortly before the actual crossing I 874 quotedin Gard I 995: 23 8 -239). Aheap of stonenow marks point the roadmakes an outwardhook awayfrom theridge to be the site of this modestfortification (Fig. 9). It standsabout one crossed. It then swings back in time to provide for a direct mene high with the interior still discernible. approachto the dune which, at this stage,is reminiscentof a The site has considerablesignificance not only as an early 'TypeI'crossing. contactsite but for its associationwith JohnForrest. who was At times it is necessaryfor vehiclesto crosstwo merging subsequentlyknighted and went on to becomea Premier of dunesin rapid succession. Sometimesa straight approachis WesternAustralia. The site also has the potential for appropriate.Frequently, however, it is betterto offset the two. archaeologicalstudies to reveal more of the structure itself. 'Type3' crossingshave been developed to makebest use ofthe Furthermore,it has becomean important feature for modern terrain and provide optimal run-up opportunities(Fig. l2). A travellersof the CSR. straightascent over the first duneis followed by a gentlecurve to providefor a directcrossover ofthe seconddune. Reasonably 'Native wells' firm terrain is essentialfor this approachto be effectivefor the Many of the CSR wells were originally 'native wells' and intermediatecurve may slow the transitingvehicle. waterholes.The latter aregenerally natural features such as the Complexity is evident in conditions such as the 'Type 4' now silted Windich Springs, 'Water' 38 Wajapumi, and the crossing(Fig. 13). In this exampletwo locationsmay havebeen scenicDurba Springs. 'Native wells' were generallyshallow, selectedto crossthe samedune. It is an unusualtechnique with funnel shapedexcavations into which water would seep. one particular exampledocumented near Durba Springs. An Typicallythey were severalmetres deep. The waterwas trapped approachis madeeither directly or by takinga right-angledcurve in a shallow,often angleddepression into which sunlightrarely to approachthe duneat ninetydegrees near the dunebase. Other ;\< >\' "-' s? :t, z- -/.. N \. Fig. 10: 'TypeI' moderndune crossing. \\. ,= =.. s-

?_ S. S = { s ,.= '-: 2., i-

..N Fig. 13: 'Type 4' modern dune crossing.

Fig. 11: 'Type 2' modern dune crossing.

st' = S' : a- \' )t-z S s- a /.. =*- \\ r..: s \\ \- J\ --\lt. S : r\ .? -\* \.\ .= '2 :{ --.. ./ j S \- t/,.

1

Fig. 12: 'Type 3' modern dune crossing. Fig. 14: 'Type 5' modern dune crossing,

optionsinclude two parallel extensionsfrom the main tack which crossingfrom the westernmostapproach. Altematively, a left might be used. One is closeto, andparallel with, the dunewhile tum at the T-junction would bring the driver back in a looped the other is further away. Soonafter the road swingssharply to curve to a point parallel with the frst dune. Passingthe original the right andapproaches the duneat right angles.Once over the crossoverthe road leadsdirectly north along a more eastemroute. crestthe road swingsback to rejoin the main vehicle track. If a longerrun up is necessarythe vehicle can be reversedinto Unquestionably,the most complex systemis the 'Type 5' the southern'tail' beforethe approachis tackled. The choice crossingused to traverselarger double dunes(Fig. l4). While would dependnot only on a 'spur-of- the-moment'decision but the approachfrom either end is relatively direct a rangeofoptions on the vehicle'sweight and,thus, its ability to crossdunes with canbe takendepending upon the driver.Once the first crossing ease.Existing weather conditions can also affect a vehicle's has been completed it is possible to take a sharp turn and perfonnance:hot conditionsloosen the sandmaking dry bogging approachthe next dune relatively directly.Various choices are more likely. offeredthe driver,however, in respectofthe approaches.In the These techniques may, at first, appear of limited example illustrated here a driver heading south may continue archaeologicalvalue. In reality, the confraryis tue. They provide past the start of the second crossing, follow the southemmost dramaticexamples of contemporaryadaptive ingenuity, and the gain loop and thus a useful additional run-up distancein changesmade to bestmeet the demandsof moderntransport in approachingthis crossing. a desertenvironment. They demonstrateissues which are For the north navelling vehicle, the options are numerous. appropriatelythe subject of historical archaeology. Their After crossing the first dune, a driver might elect to continue relatively recent age is no reasonto preclude them from the westand turn directly north at the T-junction to takethe second archaeologicalrecord. 78 Abandoned equipment Nominations of heritageplaces necessarily require thorough assessment. That takes time. Time is something high-usage A variety ofvehicles and equipmenthas been used in recent heritageareas can ill afford and nine years is an extensiveperiod years to crossthe CSR. In most casesthe resultshave been to have a nominatior pending. In cases where there is a successful. A few blown tyres and the occasionalmechanical demonsfrablecas€ to support claims of sigrificance, any delay repair site attestthat successhas often been at a price. Some must be of considerableconcem. Sometimeswanton vandalism tavellers have been far less successful. Severalabandoned desfroysarchaeological evidence and adverselyaffects heritage vehicles litter the track. One is burnt out as result of a spinifex value. Sometimes,well-intentioned restoration of a place can build-up around the exhaust. The resultant fire destroyedthe adversely affect its integrity. Criticism should not be directed vehicle. Many guide books carry wamings of fire risk with the against such individuals. Rather, it is a fault of a systemwhich build up ofspinifex seedbeneath the chassis and the rapidity fails to link sound managementwith education and technical with which a vehiclecan be comea bumt wreck (Gard 1995:l0). advice.It is not a situation limited to this one WesternAustalian Among the more noteworthy items remaining alongthe CSR site but is encounteredthroughout Aushalia and many other is Murray Rankine'strolley. Rankineand two colleagueswere countries.Well-developed policies are essential, but they do not forcedto abandontheir 1974efforts to walk the CSR when his precludeeducation ofthe wider community andpro-active listing trolley proved unsuitablein the soft sand. The remainsof the actionby under-sourcedheritage agencies. trolley lie l9 km north of Well l5 (Gard 1995:264).Two years Each time wells are upgraded,archaeological evidence is later Rankine returned and completed the walk with associate obliterated. In this regard,the CSR reflects what is occurring in Rex Shaw. many other locations. It is quite wrong to suggestthe public shouldbe refusedaccess to this magrificent arearesplendent, CONCLUSION not only in its diverse flora and fauna, but also in its rich Aboriginal andhistorical material culture. A soundmanagement This brief survey has sought to identifr the broad issues and strategyis desperatelyneeded, Ideally, it should considerall diversity of historical archaeologyof the CSR. Recordingthe elementsof cultural and natural heritage. Assessmentof the archaeologrof the CSR is challengingfor it is both physically CSR'shistorical archaeology should not be further delayed,for and logistically demanding.Further archaeologicalinvestigation it is on theseelements that there is most pressrueas the CSR justified. is certainly A seriesof carefullyplanned and focused switches from cattle droving to tourism. studies should be completed with relative simplicity. Lengthy periodsof fieldwork would require sigrificant resourcesin the ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS way of food, water and fuel. What might be a matter of a few days' fieldwork in closely settledareas would require careful The editorial assistanceprovided by Mark Moore andDr Neville planning and involve three or four vehicles. Even fieldwork, Ritchie in preparingthis paperis gratefullyacknowledged. The such as completing an inventory of each well site, would line drawings were preparedby Eric Ireland. The opportunity necessitatecarrying sufficient suppliesfor abouta month. to accompanymy son,Warwick, and his party along the Canning provided The wells, their related infrastructure,and the graves,are Stock Route the initial stimulus for this paper. The assistance the key archaeologicalelements. Further archaeologicalstudy of the Batfye Library, Perth, WesternAustralia, in providing could bestbe linked with the plannedupgrading of otherwells. copies of the historical photographsis greatly appreciated. Indeed, it should be a requirementthat archaeological investigationprecedes such work. BIBLIOGRAPITY Public safety is a major issue for the land managers- the WestemAustralian Govemment. As water suppliesare crucial BYERLEX F. J. 1867.Narrative ofthe OverlandExpedition of for human survival, well upgrades are both desirable and the MessrsJardine, From RocHtamptonto Cape York,North necessary,as is trying to encouragetravellers to stick to safe ,J. W. Buxton,Brisbane (1995 Facsimile edition routesto minimise vehicle accidents.The trade-offis that ifthe publishedby CorkwoodPress, Bundaberg). track is 'upgraded'for moderntravellers, then greateruse will be madeof the route, and probablywith greaterimpacts. CARNEGIE,D. W. 1898.Spinifex and Sand. C. ArthurPearson, London (1973 facsimile Any upgrading of the wells and the track involves by PenguinBooks). modificationto the cultural environmentand a consequentloss DECKERT, L 1994. The Canning Stock Route, Westpoint ofthe historical archaeologicalrecord. The greatestneed is for HeritageMaps Series,Westpoint, Nhill. archaeologicaldocumentation and development of a soundly GARD, R & E.1995. CanningStock Route A Travellerb Guide, d basedmanagement plan. As in many placeswithin Australi4 2ndEdition, Western Desert Guides, Wembley Downs, WA. d thereare disparateinterests in respectto traditionalAboriginal |aI use, contemporaryuse, and heritageconservation. Resolution GILES, E. 1889.Australia Twice Traversed,Sampson, Low, re. of thesediverse interests is essentialif the CSR is to maintain Searle& Rivington, London. rro itsjustifiablesignificance as an icon of Austalian resourcefulness LEWIS, R. S. 1941.Elements of Mining, John Wiley & Sons, ce andtenacity. New York. ul fr In general,the Canning Stock Route has fared reasonably well; perhapsby defaultrather than by desigrr.The usergroups :'s have implemented a praiseworthy degreeof self-regulation, rg althoughto some extent heritageprofessionals have failed to educatethe public in respectofwhat constitutes'appropriate td site behaviour'. Sound managementof nationally significant le heritagefeatures such as the CSR doesnot rely on preventing t€ developmentor use and it certainly doesnot condoneputting in people'slives at risk. On the contrarythere is the needto allow :e safe 'presentday use' while preservingoriginal featuresand ir enduringheritage values by meansof an appropriatemanagement r€ strategy. It is not a difficult challengebut it doesrequire participationand commitmentfrom all stakeholders.

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