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$2.99 VOLUME 75, NUMBER 5 FEBRUARY 1–7, 2019 THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 74 YEARS INDUSTRY FOCUS: FINANCE How to Tackle the China Trade-War Challenges By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor

In the past year, it has become increasingly more challenging to be an apparel manufacturer, importer or retailer in the United States as uncertainty surrounds trade with China. Ten percent tariffs on Chinese imports have raised the price of bringing in fabric, handbags and fur into the United States from that country. Now there is a threat that Chinese apparel imports could be subject to a 25 percent tariff starting in early ➥ Finance page 25

FOCUS ON FASHION The Ins and Outs of Fashion Designers’ Innovations Creativity in the fashion industry comes in many forms. It pops up when a designer sees an incredible movie or travels to an exotic destination. It emerges when they look at old photos or see someone walking down the street in a vintage dress. For years, Los Angeles’ designers have been trendsetters when it comes to ideas and fashion. The premium-denim trend started in Los Angeles as did streetwear, activewear and, of course, swimwear. California’s sun-splashed climate and beach scene give designers a different perspective on fashion, fabrics and colors that are often mimicked around the world. Is it a coinci- dence that some of the most sought-after celebrity influencers reside in the City of Angels? The California Apparel News touched base with some of Los Angeles’ up-and-coming designers and asked them to share their road to success and how they create their fashions. Our interviews begin on page 20.

INSIDE: FALL COLORS Where fashion gets down to business SM Los Angeles designer Monique Lhuillier uses touches of lace and embroidered looks for her pre-Fall ’19 contemporary 4 6 lifestyle collection called ML Monique Lhuillier. Guess CEO steps down ... p. 2 Texworld USA and Apparel Sourcing USA ... p. 8 For more looks, see page 18. Fashion Market Northern California ... p. 8 What’s Checking in the Arts District ... p. 14 Resource Guide ... p. 28 ML Monique Lhuillier

COURTESY OF ML MONIQUE LHUILLIER www.apparelnews.net

01.25-27.indd 1 1/31/19 5:09 PM NEWS Guess CEO Unexpectedly Steps Down After four years as the chief executive of On Jan. 25, Guess and Alberini agreed that Guess, in filings with the Securities and things around at Guess. He launched an ag- Guess?, Inc., it was announced that Victor he would take over the top executive position Exchange Commission, said Herrero would gressive campaign to hire influencers and ce- Herrero would be stepping down from the Los upon his separation from Lucky Brand, which receive a $2.4 million separation agreement, lebrities such as Jennifer Lopez to publicize Angeles lifestyle-clothing brand on Feb. 2. Lucky Brand said was on Jan. 28. which is equivalent to two years’ worth of the product. He also started shuttering U.S. Taking over the top position will be Car- On Jan. 28, Guess issued a succinct press his monthly $100,000 salary plus his bonus stores as sales in Europe and Asia grew and los Alberini, who left the company in 2010 release announcing the executive change. for fiscal 2019. He will also have his life-in- U.S. sales languished. to work for Restoration Hardware and While Guess is waiting for Alberini to join surance and health-insurance costs covered During fiscal 2015, Guess’s earnings Lucky Brand Inc., where he most recently the company, Maurice Marciano will step in for a two-year period and receive full vesting were $867.9 million on net revenues of $2.4 was the chairman and chief executive. as acting CEO. of his equity awards. billion. During fiscal 2018, that had not im- Calls to Guess to comment on the execu- It was also announced that Paul Marciano, Once Alberini steps in, his annual base proved. Earnings during 2018 were $828.8 tive changes were not immediately returned. Maurice’s brother and another co-founder salary will be $1.2 million, and he will re- million on $2.36 billion in net revenues. But Maurice Marciano, the co-founder of of the brand, would stay on with the com- ceive a $1 million signing bonus. Alberini Particularly painful was the third quarter the company, said in a statement that he pany as chief creative officer. He resigned as was president and chief operating officer at of fiscal 2019, when the company experi- was “excited to have Carlos coming back as chairman last year amid a sexual-harassment Guess from 2000 to 2010. enced a $13.4 million loss on $605.4 million CEO. He was instrumental in building the probe and was to leave his chief-creative- Herrero, who had worked for a decade in revenues. During the same period in 2018, international business in Europe and Asia officer position in January. But the company at Spanish company Inditex, parent com- net loss was $2.9 million on $548.9 million during his 10-year tenure with the company.” said his employment now will be “at will.” pany of Zara, came on board in 2015 to turn in net revenues.—Deborah Belgum Poshmark Report Examines Trends Toward Growing Social Commerce Social-commerce company Poshmark headquartered in Redwood City, Calif. “That plus years—each generation is more loyal “Human interactions are absolutely criti- released its first review of the social-retail is what prompted us to research our own than the next,” Chandra said. “The loyalty is cal to scaling commerce,” he explained. environment in a report called “A Year in So- system, but also massive transaction volume, exponentially increasing, not just because of “By removing them from your experience cial Commerce.” and combine it with some of the research in the merchandising but because of the social and making it more sterile, while you might By studying online interactions and trans- our industry data.” human relationships and connections that achieve a certain level of efficiency, it comes actions that occurred on the Poshmark plat- With its users spending from 23 to 27 form on the platform.” at the price of loyalty and engagement.” form, where people can buy and sell new and minutes each day on the platform, Poshmark For retailers who have not yet invested Through social commerce, consumers are used clothing, footwear and accessories, the has found that social interactions are in- in cultivating a social-commerce presence, returning to the more traditional shopping e-commerce company was able to identify volved in 78 percent of its transactions. Visi- Chandra outlines the opportunities for busi- experiences, during which they would shop the most important social-shopping trends tors to Instagram devote 28 minutes to the nesses to ease the shopping experience for at bricks-and-mortar locations with friends. and forecast how these consumer habits will application, and Facebook and Snapchat customers who prefer different purchasing Now, according to the report, friends take the affect the future of retail. users visit those sites for 27 minutes daily. options. form of other online users who are engag- “Retail is not an isolated activity. Human Whether Poshmark members contribute to “You could discover a product any- ing through these platforms, as 74 percent of interactions and socialization are the founda- the platform’s 1.2 million likes, 18 million where—a physical store, on Instagram or on millennials say social influences shopping, tion of it. shares or 350,000 comments, these new on- Poshmark,” he said. “You should have the 72 percent of shoppers buy due to inspira- Social and commerce are scaling to- line social cues help drive commerce. option to buy it when you discover it, buy tion from Instagram and 56 percent of buyers gether,” said founder and Chief Executive “Generations of customers who have it later on from the comfort of your home examine product reviews from other buyers Officer Manish Chandra, whose company is been part of Poshmark over the last seven- or buy it in the store and have fulfillment at prior to making a purchase. your home or vice versa—buy it at home and These consumers also want more as- fulfill it at the store.” sistance from brands through social plat- Current numbers from the report show forms, with 59 percent of shoppers expect- that 40 percent of the world’s population ing greater customer service than a year ago uses social media and 69 percent of Ameri- and 48 percent of consumers reporting that cans are using these types of applications. they would like brands to help them discover As these numbers grow, Poshmark forecasts products. that approximately 70 percent of retail e- “In a world where you have one online commerce sales will come through mobile giant dominating the market, human interac- by 2021, and Chandra believes this should tions give you specific, long-term competi- inspire retailers to devote more resources to tive advantage,” Chandra said. increasing social-commerce initiatives. —Dorothy Crouch

Calendar

Feb. 4 Feb. 5 Liberty Fashion Fairs Las Vegas, Quest, Assembly, The Pillars, Kid’s Hub Las Vegas by Playtime Londonedge Las Vegas Indigo, The General Store, Planet Hollywood Flamingo Hotel & Casino Agenda Las Vegas Las Vegas Las Vegas World Market Center Las Vegas Through Feb. 5 Through Feb. 6 Las Vegas Feb. 4 Feb. 5 Through Feb. 7 WWIN FN Platform Rio All-Suite Hotel & Casino WWDMAGIC Sourcing at MAGIC Las Vegas Convention Center Las Vegas Convention Center Las Vegas Footwear Sourcing at MAGIC The Tents Las Vegas Convention Center Project, Project Womens, Stitch @ Project Womens There’s more Curve Las Vegas MAGIC Mens on ApparelNews.net. Mandalay Bay Convention Center Pooltradeshow Las Vegas Mandalay Bay Convention Center For calendar details and Through Feb. 7 Las Vegas contact information, visit ApparelNews.net/events.

Submissions to the calendar should be faxed to the Calendar Editor at (213) 623-5707. Please include the event’s name, date, time, location, admission price and contact information. The deadline for calendar submissions is the Tuesday prior to Friday publication. Inclusion in the calendar is subject to available space and the judgment of the editorial staff.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802. CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS®: (ISSN 0008-0896) Published by TLM PUBLISHING INC. APPAREL NEWS GROUP Publishers of: California Apparel News®, Market Week Magazine®, New Resources®, Water wear®, New York Apparel News®, Dallas Apparel News®, Apparel News South®, Chicago Apparel News®, The Apparel News (National), Bridal Apparel News®, Southwest Images®, Stylist® and MAN (Men’s Apparel News®). Prop- erties of TLM PUBLISHING INC., California Market Center, 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777, Los Angeles, CA 90079, (213) 627-3737. © Copyright 2019 TLM Publishing Inc. All rights reserved. Pub lished weekly except semi-weekly first week of January, second week of July and first week of September. Periodicals Postage Paid at Los Angeles, CA, and additional entry offices. The publishers of the paper do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Opinions expressed in signed editorial columns or articles do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publishers. Subscription rates: U.S.: 1 year, $89; 2 years, $140. Foreign: $180 U.S. funds (1-year subscription only). Single-copy price $2.99. Send subscription requests to: California Apparel News, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802 or visit www.apparelnews.net. For customer service, call (866) 207-1448.

2 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS FEBRUARY 1–7, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

02.news.indd 2 1/31/19 5:12 PM laapparel.indd 1 1/31/19 5:29 PM ADVERTISEMENT DENIM

In the Factoring Landscape, Ashley Mason Rolls Out a Milberg Factors Is a Breed Apart New Denim Line When Dan Milberg, president of New a three-member team—an account York–based Milberg Factors, one of the executive, a credit analyst, and a By Andrew Asch country’s largest and oldest factoring receivables collector. All is done in Retail Editor companies, ponders the question of house. “Most of our competitors Michelle Mulleneaux how his family’s privately held business outsource all or some of their started her Ashley Ma- has managed to last so long, he doesn’t operations.” Milberg believes it is go back to its founding in 1937 by his strategically important to have all son clothing company grandfather Ben. He refers to the late functionalities in-house. Milberg has more than three years 1950s, when his father, Leonard, and offices in Glendale, California, and ago with her sights set Wcollege classmate Joe Golden took Winston-Salem, North Carolina, in on growing the venture the reins. “They met as freshmen at addition to its New York headquarters. with new lines and inno- Princeton and were business partners It has made a substantial investment in vations. for 50 years and never fought about its IT department and makes available With that in mind, money,” says Dan. “Not many partners a suite of information to its clients via its Ashley Mason intro- in any business can say that. They built “Milberg Client Information Systems,” duced a new women’s the bones of the business and set the otherwise known as MCIS. denim line in January benchmark for how to do things the Dan’s father, Leonard, who is CEO, called Made in Blue, right way, and we have never lost sight made him start in the collections a blue-jeans line with of that.” department and work his way up. “It simple and clean looks With this 85-year legacy, Dan is wasn’t exactly his idea of how things retailing for $49 to $59. justifiably proud of the Made in Blue is the lat- firm’s continued growth est in rapid-fire releases and success and the ever since the Ashley Ma- expansive range of son juniors line was intro- services the company duced in October 2015. provides. “Everyone thinks Since then, the Huntington of factoring as it relates to the apparel world. That Beach, Calif.–based com- is true, but today our pany has introduced the portfolio includes apparel, Prosperity Denim line textiles, accessories, in 2016, followed by the Michelle Mulleneaux with models wearing Prosperity Denim shoes, home furnishings, kids’ line Gloss & Glit- furniture, and food ter Girls. And a premium-denim line called into a cold pool,” Mulleneaux said. “It’s so companies. Diversifying Prosperity Premium Denim will be com- cold, you wonder, ‘Why did I get in?’ Then the portfolio has ing out in April. you jump all the way in. I didn’t look back. I undoubtedly contributed In February, the company is scheduled to had people doubting me, though.” to the longevity of our Dan Milberg unveil its first direct-to-consumer channel, Mulleneaux took the big jump when she firm.” Factoring services wanted to make a few changes in are now more vital than her daily life. She was tired of com- ever with the vast amount of retail would work,” Leonard says with a quick muting from Huntington Beach in bankruptcies and closures that have laugh. But he knows how all these Orange County to downtown Los rocked the middle market. functionalities work because he did Angeles. She also wanted to con- Adds Dan, “Everyone is concerned them himself.” “It’s really been a 30-year trol her schedule, so she invested about customer credit risk; it has progression of understanding what we her savings in her first company. only gotten more relevant due to the do and how it’s done,” adds Dan. “If you There have been some changes. many retail leveraged buyouts that know your craft well enough, you can Currently, she has a two-minute have gone bad over the last 10 years. sell it in a way that’s not mechanical.” commute by car. Sometimes she Milberg Factors has always had a great Another critical legacy from his appetite for underwriting risk—and this father and Golden is how Milberg treats walks to work at her new head- has allowed us to add many terrific its executives. “They wanted senior quarters located a few blocks from companies to our portfolio.” management to have an ownership the ocean. But there have also been With client sales volume of more stake in the company,” says Dan. “That costs. When she worked as a sales than $5 billion and the apparel-client is something none of our competitors executive, she made a six-figure business running from $5 million to $600 ever dreamed of doing. The fact that salary. She declined to state what million, Milberg has the financial depth there is an opportunity for an ownership she currently makes in a company to take on underwriting at every level of stake is a great incentive and was a very that has not yet reached its five- the apparel industry. Unique in its field, smart decision by my father and Joe.” year mark. Milberg can do so while maintaining the While “most of our competitors have While it may not match what personalized touch and individualized grown through acquisition, we’ve grown she used to make, she says, “I am decision-making of a much smaller firm. organically,” he says, “by maintaining happier. I am building a business. With the complexities of today’s strong relationships with longtime I am helping people create life- marketplace, that ability to work directly clients and fostering loyalty among the styles of freedom,” she said of her with a decision-maker is a competitive employees, many of whom have worked 10-member staff, who also make advantage. “Banks are increasingly for the company upwards of 20 years. their own schedules. bureaucratic, and their internal I am very proud that we have many A building block in Ashley Ma- compliance continues to be challenging. long-tenured individuals but am just son’s rollout was listening to what Dealing with an owner-operated, as proud that we continue to attract a retailers were looking for, Mulle- privately held finance company is a heck new generation of younger employees. neaux said. of a lot easier and a good business There is a lot of pride around our decision,” says Dan. “We have many company, and we are excited about our “They would tell me, ‘I need clients that require funding outside opportunities,” says Dan. That is saying a better price point. How fast can of a traditional asset-based formula. something with the steady change in you get this style? What will be the color for next season? I need more Due to our structure, we can react the factoring landscape, which has seen Made in Blue expeditiously.” dwindling numbers of factoring firms. of this style,’” she said. With Milberg’s clients, “it’s an “This is how we’ve grown it. This The upcoming Prosperity Pre- individual relationship to begin with,” is why we’re thriving,” Dan says. “The prosperitydenim.com. Mulleaneaux noted mium Denim line will focus on offering Dan explains. “People have normal ups lack of bureaucracy and our ability to that wholesale will remain a core part of the tailored looks in a wide range of sizes with and downs in business, but in a typical respond in a timely way—maybe it’s a company. retail prices ranging from $100 to $150. It banking environment there is not a lot lost art. I judge it by the people coming Mulleneaux started Ashley Mason after will be offered in petite sizes as well as plus of elasticity for losses. If you’ve lost to us. People want this.” 27 years of working in fashion sales. Her sizes. money, it may be a challenge to stay at last sales job was as a senior sales executive Directing a company also has given the bank, even if you have been with for the clothing company Topson Downs, Mulleneaux the chance to flex her design the bank for many years. We can see headquartered in downtown Los Angeles. muscles for the first time in her career. She through that. There may be mitigating Mulleneaux’s previous relationships with works with her staff on shaping the look of reasons for the losses. We can sit with A Tradition of Entrepreneurial retailers and manufacturers were key in roll- her styles. The scope of her responsibilities the owner and see if the deal makes Financial Solutions ing out her company. But there was nothing is reflected in her job titles. She is founder, sense, in spite of a ‘tough year.’” www.milbergfactors.com to prepare her for making the transition from chief executive officer and creative director. For every client, Milberg provides [email protected] being an employee to running a business. “I feel like I’m just beginning to take the “The best analogy is like when you get company to bigger heights,” she said.

4 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS FEBRUARY 1–7, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

04.denim.indd 4 1/31/19 5:13 PM 011819_CAN Leasing Full Pg_4_PRINT.pdf 1 1/29/2019 4:50:32 PM

CMY

cmc.indd 5 1/30/19 12:37 PM MADE IN AMERICA Amour Vert Brings a Green Side to Local Manufacturing

By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor The move from a wholesale business to a direct-to-con- that help make the brand’s apparel. sumer model has proven successful for the company, which “They want to make sure that their goods are being made Before domestically made, sustainable apparel manufac- added a catalog and has opened four bricks-and-mortar lo- ethically and that they understand the supply chain, which is turing became a major trend, San Francisco–based Amour cations in Northern California, two stores in Southern Cali- something that five or 10 years ago consumers weren’t really Vert provided women with well-made clothing that com- fornia and, most recently, its first out-of-state location, in thinking about,” Salinas said. bines style with sustainability, and it has ever since it was Atlanta. Through a February 2018 partnership with denim brand founded in 2010. “The idea is that we have this amazing story, and when Agolde, Amour Vert launched a domestically manufactured, Along with its womenswear, the company now offers you sell through other partners you don’t get to tell that sto- sustainable line of jeans. The AGOLDE x Amour Vert col- clothing for babies. A men’s capsule collection will debut at ry,” Salinas explained. “Now that we control the entire brand lection came about through Amour Vert’s search for a Los a yet-to-be-determined date. experience with our customers, we are able to teach them Angeles–based denim brand. “We launched in San Francisco with the idea that a about sustainability “It is a premium product without the woman shouldn’t have to choose between sustainable, ethic- and Amour Vert in environmental impact,” Salinas said. “We ally made clothes and clothes that are flattering, durable, a more thoughtful were able to come in with our sources and long-lasting and fit into her aes- bring in organic cotton and recycled cot- thetic,” said Amanda Salinas, ton. We were able to partner with them to Amour Vert’s head of market- create a unique product that is sustainable ing. and didn’t exist before.” Since its launch nine years Working together, the two companies ago, the company has retained felt a camaraderie to create clothing with a its commitment to sustainable, positive impact. The resulting handcrafted domestic manufacturing. Most product uses only one-tenth of the water of its 10 domestic manufac- required in traditional denim manufactur- turing partners are companies ing. owned by women and located in “We’ve always been admirers of Amour the Bay Area. With 97 percent Vert and their devoted efforts toward sus- of its goods made in the United tainability,” said Jessica Bowler, senior States, the brand only makes its public-relations manager at Agolde. “With sweaters overseas but empha- the introduction of our organic denim col- AMOUR VERT sizes that its foreign manufac- A worker at one of Amour Vert’s Bay Area factory lection, we felt it was the perfect time to turing partner must commit to partners creates pieces for the brand. work with them on something bigger.” the Amour Vert mission. At Amour Vert, the mission to support “We made sure it was a factory that has ethical working way.” its community doesn’t end with apparel conditions and meets our sustainability standards,” Salinas That story in- production. Through its collaboration with said. cludes the details of its relationships with local manufac- American Forest, a partnership that started five years ago, While interest in apparel made in the United States has turers and the people behind the factories. For Salinas, her Amour Vert launched its “Buy a Tee, Plant a Tree” initia- grown, and many advancements in sustainable apparel pro- perception of today’s consumer is someone who is thinking tive. Every time an Amour Vert T-shirt is sold, the company duction have been made since Amour Vert’s founding, the about every step along the supply chain—how apparel is plants a tree. To date, the partnership has planted more than company was already ahead of these trends when it shifted made, where it’s produced and who is making it. As consum- 200,000 trees. its business model in 2016 under the leadership of Chief Ex- ers desire to know more about the origins of their clothing, Available in stores and online at amourvert.com, retail ecutive Officer Aaron Hoey. Amour Vert is happy to share the details of the businesses prices run $30 to $300.

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6 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS FEBRUARY 1–7, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

06.madeinamer.indd 6 1/31/19 5:15 PM she-sky.indd 1 1/30/19 6:35 PM TRADE SHOW REPORT Fashion Market Northern California Runs Into Some Competition

By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor went off in the event center’s kitchen, causing the entire building to be evacuated between SAN MATEO, Calif.—A confluence of trade shows and 2 and 2:30 p.m. It turned out that there was an early date for the apparel and textile trade shows in Las only carbon-dioxide gas escaping from a Vegas put a damper on the latest edition of Fashion Market soft-drink machine, which turned out not to Northern California. be dangerous, but firefighters evacuated the The approximately 200 exhibitors that normally would whole hall anyway. have attended the Jan. 27–29 show “We got a little at the San Mateo County Event vitamin D by going Center dipped 10 percent over outside for a half last year, organizers said. But there hour,” Taft said with were 14 new exhibitors—mostly a laugh. manufacturers—who signed up for Exhibitors had the show. various feelings “We felt we were slightly off about this January’s from last year because of the prox- show. Some picked imity of all the other trade shows,” up new accounts said Mary Taft, executive direc- and saw existing tor of the five-times-a-year event customers. Some were reevaluating beginning of Summer and Fall. “The good news is I opened where apparel, footwear and ac- the show. “It has been worthwhile a few new accounts, one from Oregon and another from cessories representatives exhibit for us. This is a tricky time of the Northern California,” Provda said. “I had a pretty good show. their latest collections. “I had some year,” said Jeff Gutmann, a sales There is a real loyal clientele who comes here.” Southern California reps who said representative for footwear manu- But she did admit that the Las Vegas gift show cut down they didn’t want to drive up to facturer Fortune Dynamic Inc., on the number of buyers who would normally attend the San San Mateo, then drive back to Los based in City of Industry, Calif. Mateo show. “The shows this year are condensed together a Angeles, break down their collec- “We did our homework and made lot,” she noted. tion and repack to go to Las Vegas it work. I called my accounts and Stuart Marcher, who with his wife, Julie, have a showroom [where shows are scheduled to run sent out an e-blast. It makes a dif- at The Gerry Building in downtown Los Angeles, represent- Feb. 3–7].” ference. You can’t just show up and ing seven lines including Nally & Millie, Translation and While Fashion Market North- say, ‘I’m here.’” Unwine Sweaters, said he is reevaluating how often he at- ern California took place, Las Gutmann said he acquired five tends the show. “We have seen more than 34 stores, so I can’t Vegas Market, a gift, home décor new accounts, including from say the show was terrible,” he said. and furniture exhibit, was being held Jan. 27–31, attracting small towns that are difficult and time-consuming for sales But he noted that packing up his collection to get to San a lot of buyers that normally would go to Fashion Market representatives to visit. “Sometimes at this show you get peo- Mateo and then coming back down to Los Angeles to get Northern California. In addition, CALA San Francisco, a ple from the boondocks, which is a good thing because these ready for the Las Vegas shows is challenging. “Normally we show for contemporary fashions and accessories, took place are places that are hard to visit.” have a very busy Sunday, and this year we had an okay Sun- Jan. 29–30. Nancy Provda, who represents womenswear lines such as day, which was not normal. But Monday was better. I think Consequently, buyer attendance, Taft said, was down a bit. Fridaze, Dairi, Inside Out and Yasuko, had several exist- we are a little out of rhythm,” he said. “So I am going to re- In addition, an alarm on Sunday, the first day of the show, ing buyers who attended the show and bought goods for the evaluate for next January.” Sustainability Dominates Texworld USA and Apparel Sourcing USA

By Karen Rose Stave Contributing Writer Responsibility of the China National Textile and Apparel is quantity, but their quality is also increasing,” said KO- Council, said China is in the midst of a remodel. “We are FOTI’s Deok-Cheon Chu. NEW YORK—Sustainability and ethical production facing the challenges of environmental protection, of in- A few U.S. businesses were on hand at the shows’ Local were key themes at Texworld USA, held alongside Apparel creasing costs and how to make our production more people Loft space, including AGH/Trimlab, the largest YKK zip- Sourcing USA, at the Javits Center. oriented,” she noted. “We have taken sustainability as our per distributor in the Western hemisphere, as well as the last The shows, which took place Jan. 21–23, hosted 330 ex- industry strategy. Over the past five years, our laws [have remaining zipper-assembly unit in New York City. “This is hibitors from 18 countries and welcomed 4,100 attendees. become] more strict for water, for chemicals, for pollution. the second year we’ve been at the show,” said company rep- “We’ve developed an incredible educational platform on Now it is time for us to reshape the industry in a more sus- resentative Thomas Lacari. “We’ve picked up a lot of startup sustainable topics,” said Jennifer Bacon, Texworld USA’s tainable way.” companies.” show director. The show had standing-room-only atten- Offering options to China was the Sri Lanka pavilion, Likewise, Chung Yu of Brooklyn-based, family-owned dance at the textile talks and seminars presented at the show. which highlighted sustainable-apparel manufacturers. And manufacturer MCM Enterprise, said that 10 years ago his These included “The Social Impact company had no need to attend trade of Sustainability,” “Reducing Water shows. Now he is finding more of his Consumption in Textiles,” “Achiev- customers among smaller startups. “I ing Sustainability Through Fibers and don’t work as much with the bigger cli- Materials With Textile Exchange” and ents anymore,” Yu said. “They’re higher “What’s Next In the World of Textiles risk, and they don’t put investment into for Recycled and Upcycled Materials?” their product.” Austrian fiber producer Lenzing One such startup resource is the was on hand promoting its environ- Brooklyn Fashion Design Accelerator, mental responsibility with products featured in the shows’ Resource Row. such as Tencel Lyocell fibers, derived The Accelerator has a production facil- from sustainable wood sources, using ity to give emerging designers access to a closed-loop production process that manufacturing services, houses young transforms wood pulp into cellulosic businesses and sets them up with men- fibers. Among Lenzing’s newer devel- tors, while the tech department develops opments is Refibra, which turns cotton ways to integrate technology into fabric, fabric scraps recycled from garment such as knitting conductive threads and makers into pulp. Attendees register for Texworld USA and Apparel A buyer peruses one of the booths at the show. LED lights into materials. Portuguese manufacturer Scoop, Sourcing USA. Other Resource Row booths included whose core business is technical wear, Queen of Raw, an online marketplace was displaying striking original designs made from leftover Mauritius, after several years away, made its return to Tex- where factories, brands and retailers can post their unused fab- materials from its warehouse. “We hired a group of design- world USA with a dedicated country pavilion. Joyce Lo, ric to sell, and Helpsy, a for-profit clothing-collection company ers to come and look at our 93 miles of stock and come up marketing manager for the Mauritius-based Karina Inter- based in the Northeast with 700 clothing-collection containers with a collection called ‘I Used to Be, Now I Am,’” said national, which specializes in childrenswear, said her com- in New York City alone. Chief Executive Mafalda Pinto. “We’re not trading the col- pany is still looking for its first U.S. customer. “We are here “We have a strong environmental mission to keep clothes lection. We are just showcasing that upcycling can be fun to make ourselves known to the U.S. market,” Lo said. out of the trash. Last year we collected 25 million pounds of and creative.” Scoop has also created a line of upcycled The Korea Federation of Textile Industries organized clothes,” said owner Rachel Kibbe. “We also want to work loungewear for client Tommy Hilfiger. 34 Korean textile companies to attend the show to meet new with the fashion industry directly. Instead of shredding or in- With uncertainty surrounding more possible U.S. tariffs and current buyers, including Gap, Old Navy and JCPen- cinerating, there are ways those clothes can be redistributed on Chinese goods, Yan Yan, director of the Office for Social ney. “Our main competitor is China, and their main strength into other markets and resold.”

8 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS FEBRUARY 1–7, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

08.tradeshows.indd 8 1/31/19 5:18 PM fmnc.indd 1 1/31/19 2:18 PM RETAIL Apolis: Common Gallery to Reopen Its Arts District Flagship

By Andrew Asch Retail Editor Los Angeles’ Arts District is much different than it was Lucky Brand denim label. more than a decade ago when it was a blighted, sparsely Warner Music Group also is scheduled to eventually Apolis: Common Gallery, a pioneer of high-end retail populated area. The artists living there were more like home- move into At Mateo, said commercial-real-estate agent An- in Los Angeles’ Arts District, is scheduled to reopen its flag- steaders in an urban landscape of warehouses and empty drew Turf of CBRE. Soho House, a members-only club ship store this summer, which might further cement the dis- buildings rather than gentrified residents. The area contin- for high-flying creatives, is scheduled to open at 1000 S. trict’s reputation as a place to shop. ues to change. Santa Fe Ave. in the Arts District. The more-than-six-story The menswear retailer will open in a new loft building Big residential buildings are popping up everywhere. club will feature hotel rooms, a gym, a music-performance called Third & Traction at 806–820 E. Third St., which The 472-unit Aliso Apartments, up the street from Third & area, screening rooms, a pool, as well as bars and restau- should open its doors in March on the district’s main drag. Traction, recently opened. rants. The flagship will be a return engagement to the Arts Dis- In 2017, designer Phillip Lim 3.1 opened a flagship store These new places will give the area a special momen- trict for Apolis, which makes denim, outerwear and acces- down the street from Third & Traction. Boutiques includ- tum, said Christion Lennon, who founded the clothing brand sories with a sustainable and fair-trade edge. A pair of the ing Wittemore, Hatchet Supply Co., Shinola, H. Lorenzo Brotherhood with Tommy Zavala. In July, he opened a

Christion Lennon and Tommy Zavala of The Third & Traction building Lucky Brand is located at the edge of the Arts District. Spotify and Warner Music will be moving into Brotherhood the At Mateo campus down the road. brand’s chino pants retail for $98. Archive and Rogue Collective all moved there in the past 570-square-foot Brotherhood store at 1325 Palmetto St. In 2011, Apolis opened at 806 E. Third St. and was one few years. The opening in November of Dover Street Mar- “Once Soho House comes in and a couple more retail of the first high-end shops to test the retail waters in the Arts ket garnered headlines from national newspapers and glossy centers move in, it will be a retail center,” Lennon said. Tour- District. magazines when the edgy, high-end emporium took a bow. ists and downtown Los Angeles locals shop the neighbor- When the Third & Traction building started its renova- Art gallery Hauser & Wirth and attractions such as the hood. But Lennon estimated that the majority of consumers tion in 2017, Apolis had to close its doors but maintained Museum of Ice Cream also brought affluent people to the dropping by his shop are people working at local offices that a long-running pop-up shop up the street in the Alchemy once-tough neighborhood. house companies such as rideshare concern Lyft and Califia Works boutique. In addition, a slate of high-profile creative companies are Farms, whose almond-milk beverages are sold at supermar- Apolis co-founder Raan Parton, however, said he remains scheduled to move into the Arts District in the next year or kets such as Whole Foods. bullish on the district’s potential to become a vibrant retail so. Music and video streaming service Spotify is scheduled Lennon said the growing momentum of businesses with center. “The Arts District is our home,” Parton said. “We to open a regional headquarters this year at a new office a hip edge will guarantee that the Arts District will continue have seen steady growth for the last eight years, and I think campus called At Mateo, at the corner of Mateo and 6th to enjoy a reputation as being a haven for cool for a long it’s just the beginning.” streets, a couple of blocks away from the headquarters of the time.

SUPPLY CHAIN AND TECH Wiser Wash Provides Cleaner Production Opportunities for Denim Brands

By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor center is in Paramount, Calif. Despite Youn’s experience “With Wiser Wash, not only do with skeptics in the past, Bruno While Los Angeles apparel-industry veteran and Tortoise we use fewer chemicals and less sees potential for adopting a Denim founder Kevin Youn is now dedicated to cleaning up water, but visually it looks much cleaner denim process as consum- the jeans-manufacturing industry, his long-term plan after better and the garment is much ers gain more apparel-sourcing graduating with a degree in Latin American literature from softer,” Youn said. “Since we don’t knowledge. the University of California, Berkeley, didn’t include denim. use hot-water chemicals, we don’t “It’s completely unnecessary “When I first worked in the denim industry, my intention damage the cotton. The work envi- to keep developing denim the wasn’t to work for a long time,” he said. “My intention was to ronment is also better for employ- same way that we did 40 years only stay for six months, but after working with denim—espe- ees than a traditional laundry.” ago in terms of wash develop- cially on the wash side—it was very interesting.” This technology relies on a for- ment,” Bruno said. “Consumers Developing a love for denim manufacturing, Youn became mula that includes water recycling, are more aware and care now. fascinated with washes. Initially, he didn’t realize these pro- which reduces usage by 90 percent. This is the time to seize the op- cesses were creating an awful problem for the environment. It doesn’t require pumice stone, portunity to start making sustain- “At the time, we only knew the beauty of stone wash and nor does it include the hazardous able apparel.” bleaching, all of which were almost magical,” he said. “When chemicals prevalent in traditional At Wiser Wash, Youn feels I visited big factories overseas and recognized the river-pol- denim-washing processes. there is more work to be done lution issue, it was serious, but we didn’t have any alternative “We perfected the relationship in the name of creating a cleaner for washing the denim.” between the moisture and ozone denim by uncovering more wash- Approximately 15 years ago, Youn encountered ozone with slow-motion transfer to the es and offering affordable, sus- methods for denim processing, and seven years ago, while garment,” Youn said. “That was tainable denim. working with an ozone machine to create a variety of sam- the concept of our patent.” “We can produce a lot at a rea- ples, he discovered the slow-moisture-transfer method. Major names in the industry are sonable price,” he said. “We are “When I found the method, we applied for a patent [in the taking notice, evident by Wiser now trying to meet the regular United States] and started a brand called Tortoise Denim,” Wash’s collaborations with com- consumer’s needs for a reason- Youn explained, noting that the industry was interested in— panies including Pepe Jeans Lon- ably priced, ethical product.” but skeptical about—a more ecologically sound denim. don. After working with J Brand, In addition to a Wiser Wash “When I first went to Liberty Fairs four or five years Levi Strauss, Ralph Lauren and production center in Turkey, Youn ago with Tortoise Denim and mentioned that I didn’t use Earl Jean, Mary Bruno discov- Tortoise Denim revealed that a site in Portugal any chemicals, stones or hot water, a lot of people loved the ered Wiser Wash before launching is scheduled to open during the concept but I don’t think they believed me,” he said. the sustainable Los Angeles label Life After Death Denim. second quarter of 2019. Negotiations regarding a potential The shift came when Youn partnered with Fuat Göza- “The Wiser Wash technology is amazing,” she said. third-quarter opening of a center in South Asia are also tak- çan—entrepreneur and founder of Turkey’s FG Group—in “When I gave them the challenge to completely eliminate ing place. 2017. After Gözaçan founded Wiser Globe, a sourcing busi- all chemicals, stones, enzymes and everything, they were “Our goal is that we can develop in L.A. and they can ness based in Amsterdam, the pair launched Wiser Wash, a able to do that and also develop a cool-looking product quite repeat it anywhere in the world,” he said. “That is our tar- patented, clean denim-wash technology whose development easily.” get.”

10 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS FEBRUARY 1–7, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

10.retail.indd 10 1/31/19 6:09 PM A beach-to-street lifestyle brand

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ParadiseRanch fp 020119.indd 2 1/31/19 5:38 PM ubm.indd 12 1/30/19 11:49 AM ubm.indd 13 1/30/19 11:49 AM WHAT’S CHECKING The Arts District Keeps Its Roots in Independent Fashion Departamento By Andrew Asch Retail Editor ing high-end clothing in the Arts District. 1820 Industrial St., #230 During the past few years, the neighborhood, lodged be- https://dpto.la No place in downtown Los Angeles’ Arts District has tween Los Angeles’ Little Tokyo and Skid Row, has been the changed as much as the space that is now the Rogue Col- site of a construction boom for lofts and creative office space. On the second floor of an art-studio building, Andrew lective boutique. Art lovers attend openings at the Hauser & Wirth gal- Dryden and Joseph Quiñones have run a digital shop for De- From 1979 to 2001, the boutique was the site of Al’s Bar, lery and dine next door at the critically acclaimed restaurant partamento since 2017. In July, they opened a bricks-and- a dingy, graffiti-scarred space that was the site of the first Manuela. Last year, famed fashion retailer Dover Street mortar shop for unique looks from designer brands such as gigs for some of the most popular West Coast rock bands Market opened an emporium in the Arts District. For an Marni and Lan- including Beck, Los Lobos, Red Hot Chili Peppers and Al’s Bar regular, the neighborhood might be unrecognizable. vin, as well as Nirvana. Surrounded by a decaying neighborhood of art- Colin T. McCarthy, Rogue Collective’s vice president and from brands not ists’ lofts, the club developed not only a regional but also a creative director, said that he has no doubt that the place will well known in the national reputation as a place to take musical risks. continue to change. United States such But the stage where musical careers were launched has a “A Verizon or a Pinkberry may move here someday,” Mc- as Camiel Fort- much different use now. In 2017, it became Rogue Collective, Carthy said of the mobile-phone shops and the frozen-des- gens. a space to display jeans and leather jackets. Rogue Collective sert franchises seen in suburban neighborhoods. But right The shop’s cus- moved into Al’s Bar just a few years after boutiques such as now, the Arts District continues to be a place where people tomers come from Apolis: Common Gallery and Guerilla Atelier started sell- with independent outlooks gather to buy their clothes. Los Angeles and around the world. Many of them Rogue Collective are devoted fans 305 S. Hewitt St. of niche brands. https://theroguecollective.com Sales conversion Independent and ethically made fash- is high because Departamento interior ions have been the focus of Rogue Collec- many of these tive. Local labels also are very important. brands don’t have wide distribution. Finding a point of sale The shop’s house brand, also called for these brands is a big deal, said Dryden, who worked as an Rogue Collective, is made in Los Angeles. architect before starting in retail. Bestselling items from the brand include Popular items at Departamento include shirting from the Marco polo shirt, which retails for $88 Spanish label Lowe, which is owned by LVMH. The brand’s and comes in several color ways including signature is shirting that mixes contemporary design with tra- navy, olive and black. The polo’s fabric Laer Los Pepes ditional craft. Retail price points range from $590 to $1,500. feels soft, but the fabric of the shirt’s collar East London style has been influential in global fashion in has a raw edge, which gives it a bohemian, threadbare look. Rogue Gallery for $895. Los Pepes is the past decade. The casual, street but fashion-forward style The Rogue Collective brand also makes women’s styles. another downtown Los Angeles brand of London’s East End is a focus of English designer Martine A popular look includes the City Walker pant. It’s made with with a motorcycle-lifestyle influence. Rose. The label’s hoodies have been selling from $400 to Tencel linen, features cropped ankles and retails for $128. Rogue Gallery sells the brand’s Con- Rogue Collective $500 at Departamento. The Laer label produces limited-edition and custom- cept #1 jacket for $298. This chore Camiel Fortgens, an Amsterdam-headquartered label, is made leather and motorcycle jackets in a Los Angeles jacket features special zip pockets sewn into the front and using suiting fabric to make bottoms retailing for $440 in a atelier. One of its motorcycle jackets has been retailing at the back of the jacket. sweatpants silhouette.

14 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS FEBRUARY 1–7, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

14-15.whatschecking.indd 14 1/31/19 6:09 PM WHAT’S CHECKING

Commonwealth 2008 E. 7th St. ginia Beach, Va. In November 2017, they www.commonwealth-ftgg.com opened a 1,500-square-foot boutique at the edge of the Arts District, around 7th and More than a decade ago, Omar Quaimbao and Larry In- Mateo streets. cognito opened a couple of high-end streetwear shops under This corner of the Arts District has at- the nameplate Commonwealth in Washington, D.C., and Vir- tracted more boutiques. Korean women’s label Arch The recently opened a store a block away. Another streetwear store, Juice, opened down the street in August. Commonwealth distinguished itself through projects such as developing a limited-edition, co-branded shoe with Adi- das. The shop also produces a self-named house label. A top-selling item is the Com- monwealth core logo lightweight hooded Aimé Leon Dore Commonwealth Wacko Maria fleece. It retails for $120 and is made in Los Angeles. While hoodies are big at Commonwealth, they are not the Another top-selling item is the polar-fleece Blocked only story. A reimagining of the Hawaiian shirt by Japanese Hoodie by New York–headquartered Aimé Leon Dore. The brand Wacko Maria has been selling well. The long-sleeve fleece hoodie, which comes in green, red, blue and gray, re- shirt features graphics of 16th-century Japanese art. It retails Commonwealth interior tails for $220. for $485.

Hatchet Outdoor Supply Co. shirts from workwear brand Carhartt, 941 E. 2nd St., #101 said Kai Lee, the store’s manager. In the https://hatchetsupply.com past few years, Carhartt has enjoyed a Gene Han hoped to give the Arts Dis- fashionable cachet beyond its roots as an trict a serious alternative when he opened outfitter for manual laborers. At Hatchet, Hatchet Outdoor Supply Co. in 2016. The retail price points for the tees range from 1,800-square-foot boutique sold clothes $40 to $60. Prices for sweatshirts range and gear for camping. Opening a camp- from $90 to $100. ing store in an arts-loving, urban area is Also popular are field jackets from not a wild idea, Han said. He opened the Topo Designs. The jackets feature first location for Hatchet Outdoor Supply camouflage designs, but they also of- Co. in Brooklyn, N.Y., in 2013. fer a sleek, fitted silhouette. They retail The store sells lanterns for the camp- for $129. Another bestseller is the Kyle site, backpacks, flasks, hiking footwear wool-felt jacket from the Norse Projects and even hatchets. A strong focus for label. Inspired by military jackets, the the store is clothing. Some of the shop’s Kyle comes in various colors including bestselling item are T-shirts and sweat- mustard. Norse Projects Carhartt

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cmc.indd 17 1/30/19 12:38 PM FASHION Monique Lhuillier Unveils Pre-Fall for Her Ready-to-Wear Collection COURTESY OF ML MONIQUE LHUILLIER

In 1996, Los Angeles designer Monique Lhuillier launched tire bridal party, the designer, who studied at the Fashion In- the runway during New York Fashion Week. her self-named company with a line of wedding dresses that stitute of Design & Merchandising in Los Angeles, got busy For her pre-Fall 2019 collection for ML Monique Lhuil- had a more modern feel to them. The wedding-dress idea was building a large celebrity clientele for her new bridal line, lier, she was inspired by the carefree spirit of summer, captur- hatched when she was looking for her own wedding dress and which was worn by Reese Witherspoon, Carrie Underwood ing the feminine essence of walking barefoot through wild- couldn’t find anything that didn’t have oodles of lace. She and Avril Lavigne, among others But that wasn’t enough. flower meadows. Beautiful, multicolored laces; soft, floral wanted a more modern gown. Lhuillier, who grew up in the Philippines, decided to branch georgette tops; and embroidered dresses translate this imagery After designing her wedding dress and the attire for her en- out into ready-to-wear, which in recent years has been seen on into a must-have for warm weather.—Deborah Belgum

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18 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS FEBRUARY 1–7, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

18.fashionML.indd 18 1/31/19 6:12 PM liberty.indd 1 1/30/19 12:43 PM FOCUS ON FASHION Michael Costello Goes From ‘Project Runway’ to His Own Design Studio

By Andrew Asch Retail Editor Where do you get your inspiration? Fashion designer Michael Costello is I am inspired by all essence of beauty. I known for his elegant evening gowns, which think women from all walks of life are beauty. accessories have been worn by the likes of Beyoncé, Lady When I design a dress, I like to first envision Gaga, Jennifer Lopez and Katy Perry. the woman wearing it—who she is, what her Costello, with a design studio and store story is, where she’s going, etc. To me, I al- in downtown Los Angeles, ways get a sense of fulfillment first became a household name not when a piece is complete when he participated in season but when I see a living and 8 of TV’s “Project Runway” breathing human being wearing in 2010, coming in fourth. my collection. He then returned in 2012 for “Project Runway: All Stars,” What is your favorite part of [email protected] 152 West Pico Blvd. placing third. being a fashion designer? 213-747-8442 Los Angeles, CA 90015 Costello sat down with the It is the freedom to show my California Apparel News to ex- genuine self through this intri- plain his background, inspira- cate method of art. Many of my tion and design concepts. pieces are filled with time, love and hard work. When did you decide you Buttons Labels wanted to be a fashion designer Michael Costello What skills are necessary to be and why? a good fashion designer? From a very young age, I saw my mother You need passion, motivation, creativity, dis- Belts Lace designing and sewing, and that sparked my in- cipline, self security and time management. It’s terest. Eventually, she would teach me how to not all glamorous, celebrities and parties. This Buckles Patches make my own pieces. I saw how much work business and profession take so much time and was put into making these amazing garments focus to finally reach a comfortable state, and Elastics Pins and how happy it would make women feel to even then you have to find the next thing to push wear something that was created just for them. you and get you out of your comfort zone. Hardware Rhinestones I thought, “I want to do that!” How would you describe your personal style? How did you make I would describe Hang Tags Tapes that happen? my style as very cool I opened my first and edgy. I’m almost Heat Transfers Zippers boutique at a very always in black. I’m young age and cre- usually wearing my ated dresses and favorite denim— other garments for black jeans and a nice women in Palm jacket. I love to dress Springs, Calif. With up in a crisp, fitted the help of my mom suit when it’s called and our passion to for, but I’m always FABRIC SELECTION INC. dress these wonder- looking for ways to Leading textile wholesale company with outstanding ful ladies—through edge up a casual look. word-of-mouth and sales and service expertise for over 25 years my clients’ loyalty— What is the best and I was able to be a worst feedback or successful designer critique you have Visit us at and boutique owner received and from Sourcing@Magic in this small desert whom? town. The best feed- Tradeshow back I have gotten Las Vegas Who was the person was from Diane von Convention Center who helped you the Furstenberg. She most in becoming a fashion designer? told me to listen to myself and continue to do South Hall My mother played the largest part in my what I’m doing because she knows I was born Booth #82008 success as a fashion designer. I also interned with this talent. Oprah said something similar Feb. 4–7 for Bob Mackie, a major celebrity fashion de- to me. Nina Garcia gave me my “worst” feed- signer, at a young age, which put me ahead of back on my first “Project Runway” experience a lot of the designers who were in my position. when I presented a look that was “too matchy- We do Special matchy” for her taste. I hadn’t had much styl- Orders, Looking back on your ﬁrst collection, what ing experience at the time. But overall, there is was it like and how would you change it now? no bad feedback. Drop Ship Locally My first collections were the most authentic and most me. I think when you’re just start- How has the Los Angeles fashion industry and Globally ing off, you haven’t been influenced by the big changed since you started? and bad and you’re truly able to be yourself The Los Angeles fashion industry has We offer Basic, and just create. After being in the industry for evolved into trend makers and followers, and Knits, Wovens, so long, it’s hard not to take business essen- I’m not the biggest fan. Luckily, this city is tials and ideas into consideration when starting full of originality, and with my showroom set Novelties, Knits in a new collection. But at the end of the day, I in the heart of downtown I am able to meet wouldn’t change any of my collections or past so many designers, artists and creatives that it Cotton, Rayon and creations. excites me when I meet someone who is so Polyester, Laces different from everyone else. What are the biggest challenges you ﬁnd and Mesh in creating a collection and how do you What advice would you give to emerging overcome them? designers? fabricselection.com One of the biggest challenges I face is the I would tell those designers to keep doing feeling of needing to please everyone before what they’re doing but with even more force 213-747-6297 me. There’s always that voice in the back of than they are comfortable with. Go outside [email protected] my head saying, “What if they don’t like it?” of that comfort zone and reach for new ele- or “What if it’s not what they want to see?” I ments to bring to the table. The world is filled Come visit our showroom am lucky to have a great support system and with creators and non-creators (cough cough, 800 E. 14th St., Los Angeles, CA 90021 team that motivate me to be myself and just to knock-offs), but you have to find what makes create for me. you different and roll with it.

20 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS FEBRUARY 1–7, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

20-21.fashion.indd 20 1/31/19 6:13 PM FOCUS ON FASHION The Wolk Morais Designers Get Their Inspiration From California By Andrew Asch Retail Editor the day of a show. Our first show in New York in September the city of Los Angeles, and our daily meditative hikes and there were monsoon-like conditions and nonstop sideways walks. It was five years ago that Brian Wolk and Claude Morais rain that delayed the show by an hour. This scenario recurred made the move from New York to Los Angeles to find more many times in our career, including a nor’easter where we had What is your favorite part of being a fashion designer? creative freedom. to transport our collection the night before the show to the Lin- Wolk and Morais: Getting to show the world what we are Their collections have a distinctive California-artist influence coln Center tents and a hailstorm thinking twice a year. that relies on mid-century art and color. They are definitely in that forced us to organize last-minute the vanguard, with actress Jessica Chastain sporting their latest buses to transport editors and buyers What skills are necessary to be a designs. Recently, they had a shop-in-shop open at Fred Segal to our show location in midtown New good fashion designer? Sunset. York. For a time, we thought about a Wolk and Morais: Keeping your The design duo talked with the California Apparel News second career as rainmakers. When eyes open at all times, and resilience. about their careers and creative work. we presented our first collection in L.A. at the Gavlak How would you describe your When did you decide you wanted to be a Gallery on Highland personal style? fashion designer and why? Avenue, we thought Wolk and Morais: Modern bo- Wolk: I decided after I saw Stephen we were safe as hème. Frears’s “Dangerous Liaisons” and fell in California was expe- love with the transformative fashion of the riencing a statewide What is the best and worst feedback 18th century. drought. But as life or critique you have received and Morais: I decided when I saw my first would have it, a wa- from whom? Paris haute-couture show by Chanel. ter main exploded Wolk and Morais: Generally, our in front of the gal- reviews have a cornucopia of feed- How did you make that happen? lery an hour before back, some of which is informed and Wolk: I took weekend classes at FIT our show, which constructive, some of which has no [Fashion Institute of Technology] in high turned Highland foundation, but generally we trust school, and my dad bought my first Singer Claude Morais and Brian Wolk into a nonnavigable our creative team including our ever- sewing machine and lessons. river. Nonetheless, present friend, collaborator, mentor Morais: I modeled, then apprenticed in Paris fashion studios, the show started on time and that was and stylist Elizabeth Stewart. became a stylist and ultimately a designer. the last of our water-related calamities (fingers crossed!). How has the Los Angeles fashion Who was the person who helped you the most in becoming a industry changed since you started? fashion designer? What are the biggest challenges you Wolk and Morais: We were the Wolk: My parents. ﬁnd in creating a collection and how first and still are the only designers Morais: Brian. do you overcome them? who belong to the Council of Fash- Wolk and Morais: Each show presents it own unique set of ion Designers who show seasonally in Los Angeles. We hope Looking back on your ﬁrst collection, what was it like and how challenges—fabric, location, mood, models. We are like fashion more of our peers will embrace the city they gain inspiration would you change it now? firemen, constantly putting out fires and navigating through un- from and show here as well. Wok and Morais: The world was smaller. There was no Ins- known fantasy landscapes. tagram, and people looked at the show with their own eyes, not What advice would you give to emerging designers? through the screen of their phone. We wouldn’t change anything Where do you get your inspiration? Wolk and Morais: In the words of Bette Davis, “Take Foun- about our first or any of our shows except weather conditions Wolk and Morais: Travel, art, film, our library and archives, tain.”

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20-21.fashion.indd 21 1/31/19 6:14 PM FOCUS ON FASHION Heidi Merrick Develops Her Own Formula for Fashion Success

By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor of ready-to-wear. That has been my journey— making something that feels bespoke in ready- Los Angeles–based Heidi Merrick was to-wear. known from the start as an artist who envi- Leading International Trade Fair for sioned designs that were far beyond popular What are the biggest challenges you ﬁnd trends. in creating a collection and how do you Processing Textile and Flexible Materials The designer—whose H. Merrick of Cali- overcome them? fornia shop is located on West 9th Street in With every collection there is an 11th hour downtown Los Angeles—hails from the fam- when you say, “Nothing is working. This is not ily that started Channel Island Surfboards in good.” Now, I am on my 45th collection and I Santa Barbara, Calif. It was founded by her fa- say “I am at the 11th hour, and I am not going ther, Al, and mother, Terry, in 1969. Beginning to over-make the collection. It will sell or not, her career as a stylist in New York, Merrick but it will not change my life.” Your Space. took art classes at night and supplemented her income by Where do you get your teaching chess. The designer inspiration? now breaks fashion rules by This is a funny collec- following her instincts and tion. While at our family’s More Progress. explains her style in this inter- pool party, a girlfriend of view with the California Ap- mine kept saying, “Now that parel News. I summer in Europe…” or “Next year, when I summer When did you decide you in Europe…” So I named my wanted to be a fashion collection “Now That I Sum- designer and why? mer in Europe.” This collec- NEW After my wedding—I made tion, which is coming out in my wedding dress—everyone a month reflects a California

said, “You’re wasting your HANNAH FAITHLORD girl in Europe. It’s always a life, you should be making Heidi Merrick little cheeky but from a real dresses.” impulse.

How did you make that happen? What is your favorite part of being a fashion CLOTHING. I went to L.A. Trade-Tech [Los Angeles designer? Trade-Technical College] to learn how to Any hobby or sport, when you get into the make patterns and sew. When I was graduat- work of it, it’s meditative and profound. It ing, one teacher said, “No one is going to takes so much time that it shapes the way you hire you. You have a really strange thought think about the clothes. process.” I burned the hems on some of my dresses. I liked to do what What skills are necessary I liked to do. The teacher to be a good fashion was right. She said, “I designer? think you can start your You need to be tena- own collection.” So I did. cious and have a strong head. You need to know Concentrated inspiration for the Who was the person that you have a vision, who helped you the most even if you can’t articu- textile processing of tomorrow: in becoming a fashion late it. If you’re limited by designer? what you’ve told someone Experience the hotspot for inno- My husband endured you’re going to do, you’re vative technologies around the me working really hard. done before you started. I’ve been in this studio for You have to be able to let processing of clothing. 10 years, before I had kids. your mind wander to be I would be here until 12 at successful. night. It was my passion. texprocess.com How would you Looking back on your ﬁrst describe your personal collection, what was it like and how would you style? [email protected] change it now? A grown-up surfer girl Tel. +1 770 984 80 16 I would change fits be- who has done well for her- cause I know more now. I LIZ LIPPMAN self and dresses well but used to make dresses that still wants to look cool. had an almost couture fit, not with ready-to- wear in mind. Coming out of design school, I What is the best and worst feedback or think it takes a long time to grasp the concept critique you have received and from whom? The best feedback always comes from the women who wear the May 14 – 17, 2019 • C M Y K tp: 12,12.2018 68605-014_TXP_Bekleidung_CaliforniaApparelNews_124x349 DU: 08.01.2019 USA clothes—“I kept it. I’ve worn it for 10 years. I’ll wear it forever.” The worst comes from your sales team bringing Frankfurt, Germany back what buyers say to you.

How has the Los Angeles fashion industry changed since you started? It ebbs and flows. There have always been great designers in Los Angeles, going back to the design- powered by: ers and skilled artisans working with the movie stars in the 1950s. In my opinion, people who want a really nice lifestyle and love fashion live in L.A. It’s a glamorous community.

in parallel with: What advice would you give to emerging designers? Don’t lend your magnificence to an institution that doesn’t recognize you as equal. LIZ LIPPMAN LIZ LIPPMAN

22 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS FEBRUARY 1–7, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

22-23.fashion.indd 22 1/31/19 6:16 PM FOCUS ON FASHION

From Colombia, With Love, Nathalia Gaviria Rediscovers Most updated selections of jean Herself in Los Angeles buttons By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor overcome them? and rivet When I am creating a collection, I can’t Never forgetting her Colombian roots, choose a favorite. Sometimes it is also chal- Nathalia Gaviria now calls Los Angeles lenging to make it edgy without losing home, where she has a flagship store called wearability. Creating basic pieces is difficult Nathalia Gaviria: Black on Melrose Ave- for me. nue. Facing many challenges along the way to fashion-design success, Gaviria has al- Where do you get your inspiration? lowed hardship to fuel her desire to achieve My last collection was inspired by the greatness and guide the members of the next Bedouin tribe in the Middle East. It was very generation of Los Angeles designers toward interesting because they cover their faces, State of the art fulfilling their goals. Gaviria their heads and it’s very mys- talked with the California Ap- terious. My inspiration can mold and design parel News about reclaiming come from anywhere. My her original style of festive future NG Gold collection is department clothing and her journey to going to be about toys from becoming a fashion designer. my childhood. The second is a post-punk, ’80s time pe- When did you decide you riod. It’s inspired by a song wanted to be a fashion from the band Sisters of designer and why? Mercy. As a kid, I always liked All types of clothing and found it very What is your favorite part of interesting—colors, textures being a fashion designer? labels, and how you can mix them Everything. Choosing the patches and together to create unique team, thinking about the SARAH ELLEN pieces. Nathalia Gaviria theme, who is wearing it and identication the music. From the moment products How did you make that I have to create a collection, I happen? know what music will be played during the When I graduated from LCI, a design fashion show. school in Colombia, in 2000, there was a fashion competition for designers from all What skills are necessary to be a good over the country. Whoever won would win a fashion designer? scholarship to go to Miami to study fashion You need to be creative, but you should merchandising at the Miami International know how to sew and make a pattern—you University of Art & Design. My inspiration need to know how to do your craft. for the contest design was a protest about Colombian people who were taken off of How would you describe your personal their land by a big petroleum company. The style? I hate when people put me in a box. Sometimes I look bohemian, another day I am dark and the next I am sporty. You can have 10 styles but it’s the same you. What is the U.S.A. Trim Networks (China), Co.,Ltd. best and worst feedback or +1 213 688 8550 Shangyuan 28 Industrial Zone critique you have www.trimnetworks.com Chashan Town, Dongguan, received and from Guangdong, China whom? [email protected] In December, Tel:0086-769 3885 0666 I was invited to Fax:0086-769 8158 1119 Dubai to show the collection inspired E-mail:[email protected] ARUN NEVADER by the Bedouin. Email: [email protected] collection was very controversial because it They thought it was interesting that an out- featured a man wearing a woman’s dress. I sider to the culture was inspired by them. To also invited two indigenous ladies to walk see that they got it was the biggest compli- the runway. The people in the audience were ment. A friend once asked, “I always won- so excited to see that dress. That is how I der, do you laugh when you design your won. clothing?” She was saying my designs are ridiculous and I must laugh at the thought of Who was the person who helped you the someone buying them. most in becoming a fashion designer? My mother, Helena, was always support- How has the Los Angeles fashion industry ive. Always by my side, always supportive, changed since you started? always helping. I love Los Angeles to death, but L.A. is growing into a place where artists are not Looking back on your ﬁrst collection, what welcome. The rents are too expensive and was it like and how would you change it big corporations are taking over. If I see a now? cool, young fashion designer who has a My first collection was inspired by the great dress, I will sell it in the store. It is so circus. It was very colorful and fun. After difficult to grow. I know it because I lived it. those early collections, I stopped doing colorful, fun clothes for many years but decided What advice would you give to emerging Manufacturer of all to come back to it. Looking back, I wouldn’t designers? change it. I loved it. It might be busy, but it’s Believe in their style and ideas. It’s hard types of hardware part of who I am. for a person who has a different vision to for shoes and bags be successful in the United States. Society What are the biggest challenges you ﬁnd is changing, so when you stick to your guns in creating a collection and how do you and do the work, you will see success.

APPARELNEWS.NET FEBRUARY 1–7, 2019 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 23

22-23.fashion.indd 23 1/31/19 6:16 PM FOCUS ON FASHION With Fashion Design in Her DNA, Theresa McAllen Elevates the Johnny Was Family

By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor other fabrications, although that fabric has become our iconic cloth, which is still used After starting with Johnny Was from its and universally loved today. inception during the early 1990s, the company’s senior vice president of design, Theresa What are the biggest challenges you ﬁnd McAllen, continues to cultivate the brand. in creating a collection and how do you From studying at Brooks Col- overcome them? lege in Long Beach and New The deadlines can seem York’s Parsons School of De- daunting. We have so much sign to working with Brook- product now because the line lyn designer Jean Betancourt has grown so much. We’re and starting her own lines, expanding our look to many all of McAllen’s experiences different categories. We have have brought her to this point. a lot on our plate, but it’s all As Johnny Was expands very well received, and it’s ex- into additional categories and citing to feel that we’re going opens 14 stores this year, the to the next level. Los Angeles native discussed with the California Apparel Theresa McAllen Where do you get your News her path to becoming a inspiration? fashion designer. We have a 30-year library here because we started doing embroidery in the 1990s, When did you decide you wanted to be a but we’ve collected too. We have a huge col- fashion designer and why? lection of vintage kimonos. We also do a lot My grandmother and aunt were incred- of travel, which is inspirational and impor- ible seamstresses. They had no formal tant for designers to get out of the routine. training but made all of their patterns from scratch. For me, as a young child, to see the What is your favorite part of being a fashion designer? I love working together to come up with ideas. The excite- ment when you look at the pro- totype and it looks better than the sketch or the tech pack—I still get a high from that.

What skills are necessary to be a good fashion designer? Creativity and the ability to get excited about what is going on in the fashion world and reinterpret it.

How would you describe your personal style? Make Domestic Sourcing a Reality For me, I love to mix patterns. I like mixing odd combinations, - CALLING ALL - even with color. I am so happy with Brands & Retailers interested in Domestic Sourcing this trend toward animal prints be- Domestic Cut & Sew Manufacturers / Textile Providers / Technology Providers / Cotton Farmers cause I love to mix it with plaids. For Holiday 2019, we have a velvet animal print that we’ll put in. The SEAMS Made in America Movement is Building the Bridge for the US Supply Chain – to support your move to Domestic Sourcing & Manufacturing transformation of them coming back with What is the best and worst feedback or We are bringing the greatest minds of the industry together to move the supply chain these beautiful garments, I was completely critique you have received and from whom? closer to home and to meet your end consumer’s demands fascinated by it. My mom is in a senior-living community. She has dementia, but I dress her, and she is How did you make that happen? the best-dressed woman in the place. People When I was 9, my mom started teaching are constantly telling me that every day they me how to sew. So I started making clothes wait to see what she is going to wear. Fash- for Barbies. When I got into high school, I ion is uplifting. It makes people happy and started making halter dresses and hand em- brings joy. The worst feedback has been, broidering them. I got very into macramé, “JW is such a top-driven collection, I wish embroidery, knitting and there were more offerings crocheting. in bottoms.”

Who was the person How has the Los Angeles who helped you the most fashion industry changed in becoming a fashion since you started? designer? It’s really respected. I believe this wouldn’t Los Angeles was seen as have happened without my more of a denim or juniors mother, Eva McAllen. She market in the past, but made a lot of sacrifices for things have really opened me to go to fashion school. up. People are in awe of She didn’t have a lot of L.A. right now. money, but she always believed in me and encour- What advice would aged me to create. All the you give to emerging good qualities I have come designers? DO NOT MISS THIS OPPORTUNITY from her. I really believe in drap- Join Us in Bringing Patriotism & Pride Back in our Industry ing, patternmaking and Looking back on your ﬁrst collection, what understanding the construction. It helps you SEAMS Spring Networking Conference WESTIN SAVANNAH HARBOR GOLF RESORT AND SPA / SAVANNAH, GA was it like and how would you change it fall in love and connect you with it. This May 8-10, 2019 now? ties back to my grandmother and aunt. They We were working with one fabric, which were—without even knowing it or having Register now at seams.org was a rayon georgette. If I could change the training—draping these garments by in- something, I would have added in a few stinct.

24 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS FEBRUARY 1–7, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

24.fashion.indd 24 1/31/19 6:18 PM INDUSTRY FOCUS: FINANCE

This issue is not only related to Finance Continued from page 1 tariffs. Importers must also take into account such items as politi- March. When you consider that cal instability, labor availability, 34 percent of all clothing import- weather trends, electrical-power ed into the United States comes capacity and other things when from China, that’s a big burden picking a country for sourcing. on business. Being nimble and proactive are At the same time, the Federal the keys to staying alive in this Reserve raised benchmark in- very difficult industry. terest rates four times last year, which means that interest rates Sydnee Breuer, Executive Sydnee Breuer, Gino Clark, Managing went from 1.25 percent to 1.5 Darrin Beer, Western Mark Bienstock, Joshua Goodhart, Vice President, Rosenthal & percent in December 2017 to 2.25 Regional Sales and Managing Director, Executive Vice President, Director, Originations, Executive Vice President Portfolio Manager, Express Trade Capital Rosenthal & Rosenthal White Oak Commercial and National Sales Rosenthal percent to 2.5 percent in 2018. No CIT Commercial Finance Manager, Merchant one is sure if there will be more Services Financial Group Apparel manufacturers are interest-rate hikes this year or not. facing pressure from many facets With all of these added costs signed to the apparel sector, all parties—including the exporter, of the business. It is a difficult re- piling on, the California Apparel News asked factors and other U.S. manufacturer and retailer—will likely share in the in- tail environment as consumer preferences are shifting to more- finance professionals who work with the apparel and retail busi- creased costs. Some or all of those costs would almost certainly experiential purchases rather than apparel. nesses this question: be passed along to the consumer. Retailers continue to require better pricing on the goods they With interest rates rising and U.S. tariffs threatened on Chi- Apparel makers must continue to manage expenses and in- carry; tariffs are increasing and threatening to increase on im- nese-made clothing, what do apparel manufacturers need to do ventories carefully and invest in technology to better manage ports from China; and after a long time of steady interest rates, to make sure their revenues don’t decline this year over last their supply chain and operations, which is where an experi- they have risen steadily over the past 12 to 18 months. year? enced and agile funding source can help. Ultimately it comes Therefore, it is a challenge to increase sales—or at least keep down to manufacturers having innovative designs and the right pace—and maintain profitability as margins erode. In addition Darrin Beer, Western Regional Sales and Portfolio merchandising programs to deliver on-trend products to the to staying on top of the market and having product that consum- Manager, CIT Commercial Services consumer at an attractive price. ers want to buy, many of our clients have employed a direct-to- consumer sales focus. Certainly apparel manufacturers are facing some headwinds, Mark Bienstock, Managing Director, Express Trade In addition to selling to the retailer through the traditional including rising interest rates and potential U.S. tariffs. Capital wholesale channel, they are selling to third-party websites Since the beginning of 2018, interest rates have increased (Amazon and Shopbop), subscription services (FabFitFun at least 1 percent, adding costs to apparel manufacturers who We have always preached to our clients to be proactive and and Stitch Fix) and through their own websites. Some of these use factor financing and revolving lines of credit to fund opera- not keep all of their eggs in one basket. Those apparel compa- alternative selling channels provide better margins (albeit with tions. I believe a much bigger concern than interest rates would nies that are 100 percent reliant on sourcing from China will put higher expenses, too) and are keeping topline revenues from be a tariff increase of 25 percent for finished apparel imported themselves in a difficult situation moving forward. dipping. from China. The higher costs associated with such a tariff could There is no question that China is the leader in providing have a significant impact on the bottom line of companies using production for the apparel and related industries. However, Gino Clark, Managing Director, Originations, White Oak China as a major source of production. with the new and possibly additional tariffs forthcoming, those Commercial Finance Since last year’s announcement of potential tariffs, some of importers that have other sourcing options available will be a our clients have already shifted some production away from more desirable alternative for the retailer in choosing a supplier Given the substantial indications that the economy is begin- China to countries like Vietnam and India. If tariffs are as- moving forward. ➥ Finance page 26

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APPARELNEWS.NET FEBRUARY 1–7, 2019 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 25

01.25-27.indd 25 1/31/19 6:03 PM INDUSTRY FOCUS: FINANCE

Finance Continued from page 25 same position. Retailers will have to pay more ning to slow, apparel manufacturers need to for their products due to the increase in prices. focus on solid business fundamentals. The bigger question, is how this will affect As a first step, companies should try to di- the buying consumer as these costs will ulti- versify their supply chains. It will also be im- mately be passed through. Retailers and manu- portant to retain profits and invest in technolo- facturers/importers need the buying consumer gy that reduces expenses and expands distribu- to keep spending. The question becomes, will tion channels. With these potential economic these price increases slow down consumer speed bumps, top line revenue growth may be spending? Only time will tell, but if consumer difficult to achieve, but bottom-line profitabil- spending slows for apparel, retailers will cut ity is certainly achievable if measures are put back their purchases from manufacturers/im- into place quickly. porters and everyone’s top line and sales revenues will fall. Joshua Goodhart, Executive Vice The question also becomes, what is more President and National Sales Manager, important—sales revenue or gross profit mar- gin? If the manufacturer/importer doesn’t pass Merchant Financial Group through much or any of the increased costs, We have seen many of our clients and pro- their products might become more price com- spective clients reacting in different ways to petitive. Therefore, the top line could grow or at worst not de- crease. But that would mean less gross profit margins. So I am not A financial solution as unique certain just focusing on sales as your business. growth is mean- ingful without TRADE FINANCING CREDIT PROTECTION COLLECTION serious consideration being SHORT-TERM LOANS FULL SERVICE FACTORING Rob Greenspan, Kee Kim, President and Sunnie Kim, President given to main- President and Chief Chief Executive, Finance and Chief Executive, taining gross Executive, Greenspan One Inc. Hana Financial Inc. profit margins. Custom Solutions to fit your needs — We’re here for you! Consult There is a bal- ancing act here LosLos Angeles OfficeO ce New York O ce Shanghai O ce Contact: TaeSean Chung Kim Contact: Richard Kwon Contact: Alan Ni these threats over the past six to eight months. that each company needs to understand before Tel:Tel: (213)(213) 430-4888534-2908 Tel: (212) 629-8688 Tel: 86-21-52037670 The first example, which is the most com- it makes any significant decisions. Finone.com Finone.com Shcsrs.cn mon, is that manufacturers have gone out Lastly, remember, it’s all about the product. months in advance and been proactively seek- If your product isn’t right for the market, what- ing other production sources in other coun- ever else you do will not have much effect. tries, including Vietnam, Cambodia, Mexico and Bangladesh. We have seen an uptick in Kee Kim, President and Chief Executive, letters of credit and cash against documents Finance One Inc. requests from our clients due to these new factory relationships. Our clients also need to This year will be a particularly challenging produce goods further in advance than they period for the apparel industry because busi- have before, which is stretching their cash- ness circumstances are against U.S. manufac- flow needs. We continue to meet with clients turers and importers. and assist with planning and addressing these Both the rising interest rates and the con- Get Inspired! cash-flow crunches so they can hit the ground tinuing U.S.-China trade war will increase the running cost of doing business. Tariffs are a part of the Another scenario is that manufacturers cost of importing goods, and the higher inter- Hundreds of Stocked continue to work with Chinese suppliers but est rates for borrowing means more financing Novelty Knits, develop arrangements with their suppliers to cost. Wovens, Linings participate in these potential tariff costs. Some Since buyers will resist absorbing the addi- and More! of our clients have met with their factories far tional costs, importers are likely to pass only a in advance to plan for this as they don’t want fraction of the increased cost to them. In addi- to lose these longstanding relationships to tion, a trade war presents a new layer of uncer- One Roll Minimum. other countries. tainty to both importers and retailers. We have also seen an increase in domes- One way to keep a lid on the cost of goods www.cinergytextiles.com tically manufactured goods. The timing of sold is to find alternative sourcing other than Tel: 213-748-4400 production is quicker and the price points are China. This is easier said than done, however, [email protected] higher sometimes when working with domes- because many non-Chinese companies do not tic contractors and factories. This shift to a have the technical proficiencies and resources more domestically produced product has, in to scale production at China’s level. Sourcing some cases, lowered the production costs for the right suppliers takes time, and other Asian

Apparel News Group WEB PRODUCTION FINANCE some manufacturers as well. countries often require a longer lead time. MORGAN WESSLER DAVID MARTINEZ Overall, our clients need to be smarter Nonetheless, it makes sense in the long run CREATIVE MARKETING DIRECTOR CREDIT MANAGER LOUISE DAMBERG RITA O’CONNOR about cutting overall operating expenses on to diversify your production base to include DIRECTOR OF SALES AND MARKETING items such as research and development and Vietnam, Cambodia, India, Pakistan, Bangla- 741945-2019 TERRY MARTINEZ PUBLISHED BY marketing. The shift to these other production desh, Indonesia or Mexico. Seventy-four years of news, SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE TLM PUBLISHING INC. fashion and information AMY VALENCIA APPAREL NEWS GROUP alternatives has improved many clients’ gross On a separate front, rising interest ex- ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Publishers of: CEO/PUBLISHER margins, which means clients don’t need to penses can be mitigated by managing the ac- LYNNE KASCH California Apparel News TERRY MARTINEZ Waterwear achieve the same sales revenues to maintain counts with shrewdness. Request longer terms BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Decorated MOLLY RHODES profitably. for fabric, trims or other vender payments EXECUTIVE EDITOR SALES ASSISTANT/RECEPTIONIST EXECUTIVE OFFICE Manufacturers are finding that by cutting and target customers with shorter payment California Market Center DEBORAH BELGUM ASHLEY KOHUT expenses and improving margins they can terms. Longer payable terms or shorter receiv- RETAIL EDITOR ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANTS 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777 ANDREW ASCH CHRIS MARTIN Los Angeles, CA 90079-1777 achieve a better profitability at lower sales rev- able terms will ease the strain on cash flow and RACHEL MARTINEZ (213) 627-3737 ASSOCIATE EDITOR Fax (213) 623-5707 enues. help reduce interest expenses. While retail de- SALES ASSISTANT DOROTHY CROUCH Classified Advertising Fax PENNY ROTHKE-SIMENSKY partment and chain stores have extended their CONTRIBUTORS (213) 623-1515 ALYSON BENDER CLASSIFIED ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE www.apparelnews.net Rob Greenspan, President and Chief payment terms over the years, some retailers VOLKER CORELL JEFFERY YOUNGER [email protected] with payment terms of net 45 days or less in- JOHN ECKMIER PROFESSIONAL SERVICES Executive, Greenspan Consult JOHN McCURRY & RESOURCE SECTION clude Nordstrom, Stitch Fix, Fashion Nova ESTEVAN RAMOS JUNE ESPINO PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. TIM REGAS This is a difficult and complex question. and Five Below. N. JAYNE SEWARD PRODUCTION MANAGER HOPE WINSBOROUGH KENDALL IN Rising prices can make it more difficult to NATALIE ZFAT EDITORIAL DESIGNER maintain your sales revenues. However, these JOHN FREEMAN FISH Sunnie Kim, President and Chief rising prices are affecting the majority of ap- Executive, Hana Financial Inc. parel importers so almost everyone is in the

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01.25-27.indd 26 1/31/19 5:10 PM INDUSTRY FOCUS: FINANCE

Possible tariffs have driven many manufac- In the current environment, passing along turers and importers to look to other venues for higher costs to consumers will not be easy. But production, including Latin America, Vietnam because tariff concerns have been widely pub- and Cambodia, while the anticipated tariff is- licized, consumers might be more willing to sue has been discussed within the industry for bear slightly higher prices. Prepared importers quite some time now. will have already made changes to their sourc- It also appears that many American compa- ing, and, in fact, may be positioned to both nies are dealing with the Chinese tariff situa- increase revenues and gain customer share be- tion in a multitude of ways, including bringing cause they have the ability to deliver product at in goods earlier in order to avoid a possible 25 favorable prices. percent tariff, negotiating price concessions, changing product mixes, cutting orders and/or Ken Wengrod, Co-founder/President, FTC passing costs on to customers. Commercial Corp. Even if price negotiations are successful, relief will be short-lived as pressure from high- With global slowness and low inflation er interest rates will eventually widen the price (including in China and Europe), interest gap narrowed through negotiations as compa- rates will probably increase less than 10 nies tend to utilize their respective credit fa- percent this year, and it will not have a sig- cilities with financial institutions to purchase nificant impact on U.S. apparel importers. As a matter of fact, overall WORKING CAPITAL SOLUTIONS import prices continue to FOR INNOVATIVE BUSINESSES. fall, and it has been the largest year-on- We’re committed to amplifying the growth of your business with our year drop since forward-thinking nancing services. Get in touch with Merchant today to 2016. Accord- talk about how we can help you set sail to your dream business. ing to Reuters, prices for imported goods Don Nunnari, President, Dave Reza, Senior Vice Ken Wengrod, Co- from China Flintridge Financial President, Western founder/President, FTC fell 20 basis Solutions Region, Milberg Factors Commercial Corp. points during 2018. This NEW YORK coupled with a NEW YORK LOS ANGELES MIAMI goods overseas. strong dollar, which gained almost 10 per- Ph. (212) 840-7575 Ph. (213) 347-0101 Ph. (954) 440-1453 According to the U.S. Trade Representa- cent to the Chinese currency in 2018, gave a

tive, if the two sides cannot reach an agree- strong benefit to U.S. importers and manu- MERCHANTFINANCIAL.COM ment by March 1, tariffs would increase to 25 facturers who imported part of their cost of percent on an estimated $200 billion worth of goods sold, such as fabric. Currently, the Chinese imports. tariff effect has been minimal to apparel im- While interest rates in the U.S. have risen porters bringing in goods from China. throughout 2018 and will probably see an ad- The real impact of the so-called tariff ditional rise of 25 basis points by the end of war created a wake-up call to all U.S. im- this year’s second quarter, these cost increases porters and their foreign strategic partners YOUR LENDER OF CHOICE in the end will be pushed down to the con- to review their entire supply chain. A recent sumer. Mc Kenzie study highlighted the importance of reviewing all costs in the supply chain, Don Nunnari, President, Flintridge not just labor prices. Financial Solutions For years, U.S. importers have empha- sized manufacturing costs and haven’t fo- The direction of interest rates and tariffs is cused or included idle time, shipping time, out of their control, so I recommend apparel local freight time, customs and clearance importers focus on what they do best—work time, which also significantly impact their closely with customers to ensure they are costs. Currently, shrewd U.S. importers are providing the best-quality product, at the best focusing on these costs and moving pro- (FORMERLY CAPITAL BUSINESS CREDIT / CAPITAL FACTORS) price, along with the best service while pre- duction utilizing near-shoring and to other paring for the possibility of softening sales. global geographic areas that result in low- Review every expense category including cost cost production. of goods and adjusting overhead and operating Nevertheless, a potential decline in rev- expenses to maximize profit. enue could come from a shift in consumer Also, create cash. Take a close look at buying trends, which significantly affect- slow-paying customers and try to bring them ed the fast-turn, low-price market. Today’s in line with terms. Also, look at old inventory Gen Z and millennials are focusing on sus- and make a plan to reduce it. Use the cash this tainability, authenticity and value, not just brings in to reduce your liabilities, especially low prices. Smart retailers promote their those you pay interest on. conscious manufacturing to tailor their market to these new consumers, who are pur- Dave Reza, Senior Vice President, chasing less and purchasing items that are Western Region, Milberg Factors more timeless and with greater value. They recognize how “throwaway” clothes pollute · Asset-Based Lending The potential for additional apparel-related our waterways. tariffs and increased interest rates already has, Modern manufacturers need to focus · Factoring and continues to compel apparel importers to more on changing consumer habits and consider shifting production to other locales, adapt to changing times. The old formulas · Inventory Financing negotiate lower pricing and/or to carry addi- don’t work anymore. Companies that are · Term Loans tional inventory in order to mitigate the nega- more agile and have a strong connection tive impact of increased costs. with their ultimate customers are flourish- · Supply Chain Finance Of course, the challenge is to offset po- ing. To develop that strong connection, the tential increased costs while at the same time employment of proper social media and ensuring that any adjustments to sourcing do marketing tools is critical. This is not just not result in higher costs from lengthened pro- about the use of “influencers,” which only Gino Clark 213.226.5350 [email protected] duction cycles, higher inventory levels, quality detracts from the authenticity of the brand. www.whiteoaksf.com and/or delivery issues. Progressive apparel companies need to de- While tariffs and higher interest rates can light their customers with all the right ingre- hurt the bottom line, production and delivery dients: a well-designed item at great value; LOS ANGELES | NEW YORK | SAN FRANCISCO problems can take a significant toll on rev- an authentic, legitimate story; and fantastic CHARLOTTE | BOCA RATON enues. customer service.

APPARELNEWS.NET FEBRUARY 1–7, 2019 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 27

01.25-27.indd 27 1/31/19 5:11 PM Resource Guide Fashion Liberty Fashion & Showroom Five 21/ Lifestyle Fairs Bariano/ Atlanta Apparel 628 Broadway, Suite 404 240 Peachtree Street NW New York, NY 10012 Lumier by Bariano Atlanta, GA 30303 (212) 473-4523 127 E. Ninth St., Ste. 600, Los Angeles, www.AmericasMart.com/apparel [email protected] CA 90015 Products and Services: Atlanta Apparel http://libertyfairs.com (213) 438-0521 is the largest apparel market on the East Products and Services: Liberty Fairs, the Fax: (213) 438-0522 Coast, offering thousands of contemporary show with the ultimate curation of for- Contact: Vishaka Lama and ready-to-wear women’s, children’s, and ward-thinking brands, is rethinking what it [email protected] LOS ANGELES PROFESSIONAL SERVICES accessories lines all together in one location knows and is encouraging brands to do the Products and Services: Bariano is a at one time. As the apparel and accessories same. When we’re in this together, disrup- Melbourne-based designer dedicated to being collection of AmericasMart® Atlanta, it fea- tion breeds new possibilities. Liberty has at the forefront of global fashion trends. tures an expansive—and growing—product always been known for creating a design- Escape into a world of glamour, femininity, Pantone 126-7C mix, including contemporary, ready-to-wear, driven environment for top brands, buyers, and elegance. Our first flagship store was young contemporary, social occasion, bridal, and influencers, and it leads the pack into unveiled on Melbourne’s Chapel Street in activewear, resortwear, swim, lingerie, fashion an updated and intuitive model. Upcoming 2006, and we have since opened five more jewelry, fine jewelry, shoes, handbags, and show dates are Feb. 5–7 at the World Market stores across Melbourne’s fashion precincts. B A L L more showcased in permanent showrooms Center in Las Vegas, and Liberty Women’s Bariano and Lumier by Bariano, a sister and temporary exhibition booths. Trend-driven and Cabana are on Feb. 23–25 at Pier 94 company that features more-casual day-to- juried temporary collections include Premiere in New York. night pieces at a lower price point, are now (women’s premium high-end/contemporary also stocked internationally. The brands have BENEFITING NATIONAL JEWISH HEALTH apparel, denim, and accessories) and Resort been distributed in the U.S., Canada, and (high-quality lifestyle apparel and accessories). National Jewish Mexico by Showroom Five 21 (Vishaka Lama) Atlanta Apparel presents five apparel markets @ The New Mart for over 6 years. They Presented by and three specialty markets: World of Prom Health can be seen in over 500 boutiques includ- (prom, pageant, quinceañera, social occasion) www.njhealth.org ing Bloomingdales, Lulus.com, Modcloth. Brutzkus Gubner Rozansky Seror Weber LLP each year and Vow | New World of Bridal twice www.LAPSDBlackandWhiteBall.com com, Bostonproper.com, Fashionnova.com, each year. Products and Services: National Jewish Freepeople, and Simmons. and Health is the leading respiratory hospital Rosenthal & Rosenthal of California in the nation. Founded 119 years ago as a The Trends Show California Market nonprofit hospital, National Jewish Health (951) 821-8817 today is the only facility in the world dedi- www.TheTrendsShow.com Center cated exclusively to groundbreaking medical [email protected] 110 E. Ninth St. research and treatment of patients with Products and Services: New in sunny Los Angeles, CA 90079 respiratory, cardiac, immune, and related Arizona: The Trends Show: An Apparel, (213) 630-3600 disorders. Patients and families come to Accessories, Shoes, and Gift show. Who [email protected] National Jewish Health from around the wouldn’t want to take in a little sun and shop HONORING www.cmcdtla.com world to receive cutting-edge, comprehen- your favorite lines at the same time? The Products and Services: California Market sive, coordinated care. The Los Angeles Trends Show has 4 events a year: Spring, Center (CMC) is the hub of LA’s fashion and Professional Services Black & White Ball Summer, Fall, and Winter. Registration Sydnee Breuer creative communities. Located in the heart benefiting National Jewish takes place is free and convenient online at www. of Downtown LA’s Fashion District on 9th June 23 at the Langham Huntington in TheTrendsShow.com. Free Swag bags for Rosenthal & Rosenthal of California & Main, the 1.8-million square foot complex Pasadena, Calif. For more information con- early arrival and qualified buyers for each is home to premier fashion showrooms, tact Catherine Szyfer at SzyferC@njhealth. show. Details are online. Interested in exhib- creative office spaces and downtown Los org or visit our website. iting? Contact show managers Jay and Kelli Angeles’ second largest event venue. CMC Johnson at contactthetrendsshow@gmail. Nick Rozansky is host to a year-round calendar of events, com or (951) 821-8817. markets and tradeshows, such as LA Market See U Soon Brutzkus Gubner Rozansky Seror Weber LLP Week, LA Textile, LA Majors Market, LA Kids Market, LA Men’s Market, Unique Markets, TheKorner UBM Fashion Indie Beauty, Vegan Fashion Week and a El Monte, CA www.ubmfashion.com for Their Outstanding Professional new Farmers Market every Wednesday start- (626) 582-1618 Products and Services: Uniting the most ing February 27, 2019. Contact: [email protected] influential fashion retail decision-mak- Achievements and Humanitarian Work www.thekorner.fr ers and the world’s top fashion brands, www.see-u-soon.fr UBM Fashion serves the $1 trillion–plus Fashion Market www.seeusoongroups.com worldwide fashion industry through its Products and Services: See U Soon is a comprehensive marketplaces in Las Vegas, Northern California French brand that offers luxe clothing at New York, and Japan, such as: MAGIC, Products and Services: Fashion Market an affordable price point. With four stand- COTERIE, PROJECT, FN PLATFORM, and Northern California is the largest open-booth alone stores in France (two in Paris), See U more. UBM Fashion serves the industry by B A L L format show on the West Coast. It consis- Soon has become a staple for their classic bringing together great brands and retail- SATURDAY, JUNE 1, 2019 | 6 P.M. tently offers choices from 2,000 apparel European aesthetic and chic Parisian girl style ers in superbly merchandised shows while and accessories lines in every category: influence. The label was created in 2006. It is providing superior customer service and THE INTERCONTINENTAL LOS ANGELES DOWNTOWN European, contemporary, updated, casual, defined by subtle vintage cues blended with ultimately presenting end consumers with and juniors, plus a wide range of jewelry, 1960s/70s silhouettes all while staying faith- the best apparel, footwear, accessories, and bags, and shoes. Buyers love the compli- ful to the sharpest trends. Currently the brand fashion products. Join prominent business leaders for a night mentary continental breakfast, coupons for can be found in all Galleries Lafayette as lunch options, and afternoon treats. FMNC well as key retailers and specialty boutiques. of celebration and giving back alongside Los continues to offer free parking on Monday TheKorner is another French brand, one dedi- B A L L and Tuesday mornings for arrival before 10 Z SUPPLY cated to invoking a notion of rebellious and 18001 Cowan Angeles’ top professionals in banking, law, a.m. and late-night Monday with compli- inspired femininity. The label is centered on Irvine, CA 92614 mentary beer and wine. First-time buyers claiming an optimistic and harmonious dress (949) 236-6988 investment, retail and fashion. may qualify for one free hotel night during code that stays efficient and accessible. Make WWW.ZSUPPLYCLOTHING.COM the show. Check out www.fashionmarket- sure to catch us in Las Vegas (Feb 5 – 7) at [email protected] norcal.com, Facebook, and Instagram. WWDMAGIC, Booth #74511. Other upcoming Products and Services: Z SUPPLY designs shows are Atlanta Apparel (Feb 5 – 8) and with the modern consumer in mind with the Coterie in NY (Feb 25 – 27), Booth #7839. belief that simplicity, comfort, and style KINdom should coexist in every closet. Featuring Tickets and Sponsorship Information www.kindomshop.com signature plush fabrics, timeless silhouettes, [email protected] SHE + SKY and versatile style, our collections are every- Alessandra Franco at 818.905.1300 Products and Services: KINdom is all about (Corporate Office) day essentials that can be worn by everyone. respect for, and harmony between, the envi- 1418 E. 18th St. The collection is sold in better boutiques and ronment and human nature. A sustainable Los Angeles, CA 90021 specialty stores nationwide. or [email protected] brand, KINdom is committed to bringing eco- (323) 262-8001 friendly fashion that focuses on a balance www.sheandsky.com between materials, resources, design, and Products and Services: She + Sky is Supply Chain BlackWhiteBall.org labor. We offer products using sustainable, a women’s wholesale apparel company natural, reclaimed, recycled, and indigenous located in the heart of the Fashion District in materials, such as organic cotton, bamboo, downtown Los Angeles. Fashion is a visual and recycled polyester. Staying true to the Cinergy Textiles Inc. representation of your personal individual- 1422 Griffith Ave. concept of slow fashion, each collection ity, and we design our clothes with that in is limited and exclusive, due to the finite Los Angeles, CA 90021 mind. Our line ranges from classic staples (213) 748-4400 National Jewish materials available. Our mission is to create to lively pieces, all while reflecting the latest products with meaning and purpose to protect Fax: (213) 748-3400 trends. She + Sky values your satisfaction. www.cinergytextiles.com Health and benefit the environment and humanity Our team is dedicated to establishing a for generations to come. Visit us at Stitch in [email protected] strong and long-lasting relationship with our Products and Services: For over 25 years, Las Vegas and see our bestseller convertible customers and is happy to assist you with styles (Feb 5 – 7), Booth #25078. Cinergy Textiles has been specializing in any inquiries you may have. Visit us at the stock and order-based programs consist- WWDMagic Las Vegas Tradeshow, Central ing of hundreds of solid and novelty knits, Hall, Booth #71921. wovens, and linings. Our product line pro-

28 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS FEBRUARY 1–7, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

28-30.LVAdvert-SD.indd 28 1/31/19 6:52 PM vides piece goods for all apparel markets, last year. This demand is being greatly driven available in our catalog (tbac.com/catalog) Fax: (213) 347-0202 Fred Gaylord, SVP Business Development including children’s, juniors, contemporary, by the big retailers such as Macy’s and Target. with stock options or made-to-order: but- Finance merchantfinancial.com [email protected] activewear, uniforms, and special occa- Our growth and market dynamics have resulted tons, beads, hardware, studs, zippers, and Products and Services: Merchant Financial Direct: 213-248-3977 sions. Our fabrics are imported from Asia in opening up a production center in Tijuana, more. Our product range also consists of Group, located near the garment center in Robert Meyers, President and stocked in Los Angeles. We have a Mexico. We have also added advanced die unique, novelty fashion trims and acces- Finance One, Inc. downtown LA, offers non-recourse factor- [email protected] one-roll stock minimum. Orders are gener- cutter technology in our Los Angeles production sories, tapes, running yardage, rhinestone/ 801 S. Grand Ave., Ste. 1000 ing, asset-based loans, inventory financing, Direct: 630-788-5100 ally processed on the same day and ship out center to streamline our production efforts and beaded heat transfers, appliqués, and more. Los Angeles, CA 90017 purchase-order financing, letters of credit, Products and Services: Republic Business within one or two business days, depending to strengthen our packaging capabilities. A very To learn more about our product offerings Main: (213) 430-4888 and revolving lines of credit against other Credit is an independently owned commer- on the size of the order and availability of the important part of our business is FLASHTRAK, or to source specific trims or accesso- Fax: (213) 283-3896 tangible assets, such as commercial real cial finance company, headquartered in New particular style ordered. our online ordering system for price tickets, ries, contact us directly at sales@tbacinc. Contact: Sean Kim, FVP & Team Leader estate, trademarks, and royalty income. Orleans, with regional offices in Los Angeles, custom products and care labels. Our mis- com. Headquarters and showroom are in Direct: (213) 534-2919 Our local management team offers quick Chicago, and Houston. Offering factoring sion is to deliver high-quality products at downtown Los Angeles. Global sourcing and Cell: (323) 509-8292 responses, hands-on personalized service, and ABL, with seasonal over-advances, we Fabric Selection Inc. competitive prices, wherever they are needed distribution. Endless possibilities. [email protected] and flexibility to meet all our clients’ needs. focus on tailoring finance solutions to fit our 800 E. 14th St. for production. We understand the rush nature Products and Services: Finance One, Inc. is Established in 1985, Merchant Financial clients’ needs. At Republic, we are proud of Los Angeles, CA 90021 of this industry and strive to meet the tight a commercial finance company specializing in Group has become a leader in the industry, our can-do, flexible attitude and our empha- (213) 747-6297 deadlines facing our customers. Trim Networks Inc. creating unique financial solutions for small to satisfying the needs of growing businesses. sis on responsiveness. Fax: (213) 747-7006 910 S. Los Angeles St., Suite 405 mid-size businesses. We offer full-service fac- Merchant services the entire United States, www.fabricselection.com Los Angeles, CA 90015 toring and receivable management services at with offices locally in Los Angeles, Fort [email protected] Texprocess Americas (213) 688-8550 the most competitive rates, all while maintain- Lauderdale, and New York. Sterling National Products and Services: Fabric Selection (770) 984-8016 Fax: (213) 688-8551 ing premium quality. By offering a wide array Inc. is a premier wholesale fabric supplier, texprocess-americas.us.messefrankfurt. [email protected] of services, our experienced staff assures our Bank providing the highest quality textiles and com www.trimnetworks.com clients’ assets are secure. We are undaunted Milberg Factors, Inc. Factoring & Trade Finance Division in-house designs to designers and manufac- Products and Services: Once again [email protected] by any challenge, and with a 20-year track Main Office: 500 Seventh Ave., 3rd Floor turers in the Los Angeles area and beyond. Texprocess Americas will be co-located with Products and Services: TNI is not just a record of success, there’s no doubt as to why 99 Park Ave., 21st Fl., New York, NY 10016 New York, NY 10018 Our assortment and specialty is vast, includ- Techtextil North America, making this that button company; it’s an arbiter of taste and our motto is “Win/Win Factoring.” Western Regional Office: (212) 575-4415 ing basics, novelties and prints in both knits largest and best technical textile, nonwoven, fashion. We give designers the freedom to 655 N. Central Ave., 7th Fl. Fax: (212) 575-3439 and wovens. All of our print designs are machinery, sewn products, and equipment create freely and not have to worry about the Glendale, CA 91203 www.snb.com copyrighted. We have polyester, spandex, trade show in the Americas. Discover new little parts and trims. Connecting our clients Hana Financial, Inc. www.milbergfactors.com [email protected] rayon/spandex and more unique fabrics to products, exciting technology, ground- with reliable and trustworthy garment fac- 1000 Wilshire Blvd., 20th Fl. Contact: David M. Reza, SVP Western Region Contact: John La Lota, Division President inspire your next fashion collection, and will breaking materials, and advancements as tories in the world has been the foundation Los Angeles, CA 90017 [email protected] Products and Services: Sterling National work with you to get a price that will fit your exhibitors from around the world showcase of our system and our networks. By joining (213) 977-7244 (818) 649-8662 Fax: (818) 649-7501 Bank offers clients a full range of deposi- bottom line. Visit us at the Sourcing@Magic their latest innovation in technical textiles our network, you no longer need to search Fax: (213) 228-5555 Products and Services: Milberg Factors tory and cash-management services plus Tradeshow, Las Vegas Convention Center, and nonwovens. Make your plans now to join for garment manufacturers. We have done www.hanafinancial.com offers a competitive menu of factoring, a broad portfolio of financing solutions— South Hall, Booth #82008. the industry for three days of education, net- the research for you. We enjoy serving all Contact: Kevin Yoon financing, and receivables-management including working capital lines, accounts working and business development. Come brands in different parts of the world, such [email protected] products for entrepreneurial and middle- receivable and inventory financing, factor- and see for yourself May 22–24 in Atlanta. as the U.S., China, Italy, Japan, Israel, Sri Products and Services: Established in 1994, market companies with more personalized ing, trade financing, payroll funding and Progressive Label Lanka, Pakistan, and India. Our facility can Hana Financial is a specialized nonbank attention than larger institutional firms. A processing, equipment leasing and financ- accommodate brass, zinc, and aluminum financial institution that offers factoring, partner of our firm manages every client ing, commercial and residential mortgages, Inc. The Button/ products. Our products are constantly tested asset-based lending, SBA lending, home relationship. Our 80-year track record in the and mortgage warehouse lines of credit. 2545 Yates Ave. by some of the most well-known laboratories mortgage banking, investment banking, factoring industry assures our clients that Sterling is well-known for its high-tech, Commerce, CA 90040 Accessory Connection in the world. We can provide you with all wealth management, and insurance services. they will enjoy a stable relationship sup- hands-on approach to customer service (323) 415-9770 152 West Pico Blvd. types of test results within a few days. We Hana Financial evolved from a local startup ported by a mature and experienced staff. and a special focus on serving the business Fax: (323) 415-9771 Los Angeles, CA 90015 are in touch with over 2,000 garment and serving a niche market of Southern California community. [email protected] (213) 747-8442 denim factories. The good water quality of to a top 10 factor in the U.S. and a member www.progressivelabel.com (877) 747-8442 (Outside California) Canton has also enabled us to create some of Factors Chain International, with offices in Republic Business Products and Services: Progressive Label is www.tbacinc.com of the most exciting colors in electro plating. Los Angeles and New York. White Oak dedicated to helping companies develop and Products and Services: TB/AC Inc. has Over 300 wash-houses are scattered in this Credit showcase their brand identity. From logo labels proudly supplied trims and accessories rich province, which in return can provide 201 St Charles Avenue, Ste. 2210 Commercial Finance and hangtags to care/content labels and price to small and big fashion brands for 30 some of the newest colors in fashion today. Merchant Financial New Orleans, LA 70170 555 West 5th Street, Suite 3380 tickets, we will develop, produce, and distribute years. Specialists in custom, branding (logo) In addition, our strategic location south of Toll free: (866) 722-4987 Los Angeles, CA 90013 your trim items worldwide. We specialize in trims and accessories: hang tags, tables, the Delta River gives us plenty of resources Group Fax: (866) 925-7206 Contact: Gino Clark producing custom products that will meet your heat transfers, elastics, patches, tapes, to all types of raw-material suppliers. 800 S. Figueroa St., Suite 730 [email protected] Phone: (213) 226-5201 design and merchandising needs. We success- zipper pulls, and more. We offer a wide Los Angeles, CA 90017 www.republicbc.com fully launched production of RFID price tickets variety of basic, generic trims and notions (213) 347-0101 Contact: ➥ Resource Guide page 30

COMING SOON IN CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS

February 8 February 15 February 22 March 1 Cover: Fashion Cover: Full Vegas Wrap Cover: Textiles Cover: Fashion Vegas Wrap NY Fashion Week Coverage LAEDC Economic Report T–Shirts FIDM Costume Design Exhibit Trims, Accessories & Branding Sustainability Otis Creative Economy Report Finance Advertorial Tags & Labels Finance Advertorial Fashion Advertorial Finance Advertorial Textile Preview with Tech Focus and Re- T–Shirt Advertorial Bonus Distribution source Guide* Tags & Labels Advertorial Designers & Agents NY 2/23–25 Fashion Advertorial Sustainability Advertorial Coterie 2/25–27 Trims, Accessories & Branding Advertorial Bonus Distribution Bonus Distribution Get in LA Textile Show 3/6–8 LA Textile Show 3/6–8 Sustainable Fashion Forum 3/7 Sustainable Fashion Forum 3/7 Brand Assembly 3/11–13 Brand Assembly 3/11–13 Designers & Agents LA 3/11–13 Designers & Agents LA 3/11–13 the Next LA Fashion Market 3/11–13 LA Fashion Market 3/11–13 Issue Art Hearts Fashion

Call now for special rates Terry Martinez (213) 627-3737 x213

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Fax: (213) 226-5374 colors and can dye to match any color. We www.whiteoaksf.com use the finest technology that allows us to SEAMS Association Products and Services: White Oak produce rapidly and expedite turnover rates 3650 Rogers Road, Suite #302 Commercial Finance, LLC (WOCF), formerly with quality unmatched by offshore produc- Wake Forest, NC 27587 Capital Business Credit/Capital Factors, is ers of apparel. (803) 642-1111 a global financial products and services www.seams.org It takes dollars to make a difference company providing credit facilities to mid- Contact: Will Duncan dle-market companies between $1 million Paradise Ranch [email protected] and $30 million. WOCF’s solutions include Products and Services: SEAMS is the The California Fashion Association responds to every asset-based lending, full-service factoring, Designs Association & Voice of the U.S. sewn prod- invoice discounting, supply-chain financ- Emblem Showroom ucts industry for over 50 years, consisting issue affecting the apparel and textile industry of Califor- ing, inventory financing, U.S. import/export The New Mart of more than 200 of America’s foremost nia…and is making a major impact on the media, as well financing, trade credit-risk management, 127 E. Ninth St. fashion brands, retailers, manufacturers, account-receivables management, and www.paradiseranchdesigns.com and textile providers. The SEAMS National as city, state and federal officials. credit and collections support. WOCF is an Contact: Eveline Networking Conference (May 8–10) is the affiliate of White Oak Global Advisors, LLC, [email protected] most relevant event of the year and the go-to and its institutional clients. More information (310) 420-0125 resource for shaping the growth and resur- The California Fashion Association offers access to can be found at our website. Products and Services: Kris Goddard’s gence of Made in America. The conference designs for Paradise Ranch deliver what provides access to people, processes, and professional advice and service for every facet of the she promises—fresh shapes with a vibrant, products to ensure optimized production the business. If you are involved in domestic manufacturing, Made in youthful appeal yet offering comfortable cov- U.S. It also serves as the hub for network- erage on the top and bottom. Paradise Ranch ing, inspiration, innovation, and intelligence or off-shore programs, the issues within the industry America goes bold with prints, an array of exuberant to enhance attendees’ competitiveness, tropicals mainly sourced from Italy and productivity, and profitability in the new affect your growing businesses! France, with solids produced in the United global economy. SEAMS will also be in Las Los Angeles Apparel States. The line’s success has enabled Vegas; don’t miss the Seams Pavilion at 1020 E. 59th Street Goddard to start buying print designs exclu- Sourcing@MAGIC, Feb 4–7. Visit us online We welcome your participation in the business-of-doing- Los Angeles, CA 90001 sive to Paradise Ranch. Beyond the bright to register. business. (213) 275-3120 look, Paradise Ranch is also developing a [email protected] loyal customer base for its smart silhouette www.losangelesapparel.net choices and Goddard’s meticulous attention Join us now! www.losangelesapparel-imprintable.net to fit details. “My collection is meant to be Products and Services: Founded by Dov multifaceted,” Goddard notes. “It’s more Charney, Los Angeles Apparel is a verti- than just swimwear—it’s wearable to many CFA cally integrated manufacturer of T-shirts, places, it’s interchangeable, it makes for sweatshirts, and bodysuits produced in easy packing. That’s the mainstay of what 444 S. Flower St., Los Angeles, CA 90071 South Central, Los Angeles, operating with we’re doing that makes us different. It’s Tel: 213 688 6288. Fax: 213 688 6290 over 400 employees in a 100,000 square coverage but still sexy.” Paradise Ranch foot factory where millions of garments are Designs has been recently photographed on Email: [email protected] made. We are proud to be located in Los some of the brightest young Hollywood talent Website: www.californiafashionassociation.org Angeles where our experienced and dedi- like Miley Cyrus in Vogue, actress Amanda cated workers earn the highest living wages Cerny, singer Ashanti, and entertainer Chloe This listing is provided as a free service in the country. Some of our innovations Lukasiak. Visit us at the Stitch@Project to our advertisers. We regret that we include thicker, heavy jerseys and a durable Tradeshow, Las Vegas, Booth #25078. cannot be responsible for any errors or 14 oz. heavy fleece, all made of 100% US omissions within the Resource Guide. grown cotton. We also have an extensive garment dye program with over 25 stock

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Jobs Available Jobs Available Jobs Available 1/31/2019 1/31/2019 1/31/2019 TE TILE ED CATI N C NS LTANT SA LE A ER SE ER R D CTI N AR ER A ER o you have techni cal e p. and eper tise working in Skilled sewer with min. years sample making e p. omen s pparel ompany in owntown L has an the te tile in dus try n ter ested in shar ing that knowl edge bility to work with all types of fabrics which include imme di ate opening for a Produc tion arker aker. ith with oth ers n or ga ni za tion seeks ad hoc con sul tants eavy weight and Light weight ersey, wovens, ri a min. of years epe ri ence with the erber System. with strong techni cal eper tise and real world e p. to lends, Lycra, leece and Poly otton abrics. bility to make markers with a sense of urgency. help ed u cate and train in dus try per son nel. per tise in *Ability to work with all types of product includ ing Sports‐ mail re sumes to peggy@ kayo. com ar eas such as knit ting, weav ing, man u fac tur ing, and or wear, jackets, dresses, pants, tops. 1/31/2019 wet pro cess ing com bined with strong com mu ni ca tion pe ri ence work ing with Sin gle and ou ble nee dle TECHNICAL DESIGN ASSISTANT and instruc tion skills is needed reat oppor tu nity for in‐ sewing machines, over stitch, riple needle cover A Multiivi sion womens sleepwear firm has an imme‐ dustry eperts who are inter ested in working remotely stitch, Overlock Machine, Cross Shoulder Tape Ma‐ diate entry level opening for an assis tant to our irec tor and travel ing domes ti cally and or abroad to lead training chine, our and ive spool marrow, mock safety and of Prod uct e vel op ment. an di dates must have strong semi nars on an asneeded basis. o learn more, but ton hole ma chines. Photo shop, llus tra tor, cel, Power Point skills. ust con tact us at te tilein dus try e pert@ gmail. com. etect and advise pattern issues for correc tion prior to also have good knowledge pertain ing to construc tion of Please include a copy of your resume. release to problem solve construc tion and sewing fin‐ 1/31/2019 garments. ust be detailed oriented, able to work in a ishes and ad vise best gar ment con struc tion al ter na tives. fast paced envi ron ment, with outstand ing commu ni ca‐ SA LE SE ER R EN S a mil iar with ba sic ma chine care. tion and or ga ni za tional skills. C NTE RAR CL THING LINE ccom plished pressing and hand sewing skills. mail re sumes to eluna@ mgt ind. com Sample Sewer needed for women and men in a igh Pls sub mit re sume to mag gie@ ne tlev elap pare l. com 1/31/2019 nd lothing ollec tion in ulver ity. eeds to have or call . RE R D CTI N C RDINAT R 1/31/2019 epe ri enced with knits and woven s in all cate gories for Looking for a detailed, well orga nized person with a women, in clud ing dresses tops pants skirts jump suits. SE ING ERAT R min i mum of years e pe ri ence in Pre Pro duc tion. ust be able to use single needle cover, stitch over lock aren ane, a women s apparel manu fac turer has nowledge of specs and garment construc tion re uired. machines as well as attach ments and have detailed im me di ate open ings for a sin gle nee dle p er a tor. ust have strong computer skills as well. Self moti vated skills to finish high end garment. ust have years in ust have min i mum yrs e pe ri ence. orga nized and a team player. the garment indus try and be autho rized to work in the ilin gual ng lish Span ish Pls send your re sume to jonathon@ mik encl othi ng. com S. Pls. email re sumes to s car@ vel vetl lc. com or ble to work overtime when re uired contact scar at reat ben e fits 1/31/2019 a resume to , Real Estate TECHNICAL DESIGNER email to re sumes@ kar enka ne. com or Looking for a highly moti vated techni cal designer who apply in person at . th St. L. . . has cur rent es tab lished re la tion ship with ma jor re tail ers. FOR LEASE Strong knowledge of garment specs and construc tion CREATIVE OFFICE SPACE Strong com mu ni ca tion, man age ment and or ga ni za tion Buy, Sell and Trade skills a must. WE BUY ALL FABRICS AND GARMENTS LA FASHION DISTRICT Pls send your re sume to jonathon@ mik encl othi ng. com 1/31/2019 Ex cess rolls, lots, sam ple yardage, small to 213-627-3754 large qty's. ALL FAB RICS! fab ricmer chants.com A RS ACC NT SALES ERS N Steve 818-219-3002 or Fab ric Mer chants Seek ing n de pen dent pe ri ence a jors c count Sales 323-267-0010 Person for our omen s ontem po rary Parisian rand. ust have good and current rela tion ships with ajors. •WE BUY ALL FABRICS AND GARMENTS ontact indy ao Check the web for WE BUY ALL FAB RICS AND GAR MENTS. No lot . . ell too small or large. In clud ing sam ple room http://www.apparelnews.net/classifieds/print-preview/8027/ . . f fice cindy@ see usoo ngro up. com http://www.apparelnews.net/classifieds/print-preview/8033/1/1 1/1 in ven to ries Silks, Woolens, Denim, Knits, Prints, http://www.apparelnews.net/classifieds/print-preview/8030/more classified ads 1/1 i angyan g@ yahoo. com 1/31/2019 Solids Ap parel and home fur nish ings fab rics. We also buy ladies', men's & chil dren's R D CTI N CLER and information gar ments. Con tact: Michael right, orga nied, and ener getic indi vid ual for busy nit‐ STONE HAR BOR (323) 277-2777 ting ill. t ten tion to de tail and good com mu ni ca tion skills neces sary. illing to train the right candi date. Please email re sume to an nat@ ant e kn itti ng. com Hyperlink your adhttp://www.apparelnews.net/classifieds/print-preview/8031/ for best results 1/1

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For classified information, contact Jeffery Younger athttp://www.apparelnews.net/classiﬁeds/print-preview/803/ 213-627-3737 ext. 280 1/1

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APPARELNEWS.NET FEBRUARY 1–7, 2019 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 31

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