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$2.99 VOLUME 74, NUMBER 17 APRIL 27–MAY 3, 2018 THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 73 YEARS American Rag Talks About Its New Retail Path By Andrew Asch Retail Editor American Rag Cie is going to the Persian Gulf and pos- sibly points beyond. Mark Werts, cofounder and chief executive officer of the retail chain, which has been an important part of the scene since the 1980s, is planning in September to open a 9,300-square-foot emporium in The Dubai Mall in the United Arab Emirates with other locations in the Persian Gulf to follow in places including Abu Dhabi, Kuwait and Saudi Arabia. Also on his retail roadmap are proposals to open stores in India and China. Meanwhile, he is reorganizing his Japanese operations, which means closing his last five stores, where once there were 17. That leaves room to open a Tokyo em- porium sometime in 2019 while American Rag’s Japanese e-commerce operations will continue. The overseas growth is taking place while American Rag’s domestic stores are scaling back. The company’s 12,500-square-foot store in the Island mall in New- port Beach, Calif., closed in January after a 12-year run, and ➥ American Rag page 9 Upcycle Stands Up for Sustainable Manufacturing By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor

After 16 years at , Tabitha Vogelsong and John Chung were on a mission to create a responsible apparel brand. In February 2017, the two launched Upcycle based upon a mutual desire to reshape garment manufacturing and the perceptions by consumers about how their is made. Right now, Vogelsong and Chung, the brand’s chief execu- tive, are making premium blank T-shirts as well as fleece

TIM REGAS tops and hoodies. COACHELLA COOL: Influencer Evangelie Smyrniotaki was in Palm Springs for the various music-oriented Coachella events, “I think one thing that has happened is fast fashion and wearing an outfit that was perfect for the hot weather in the desert. For more trends from Coachella, see page 6. people don’t understand that you shouldn’t be able to buy a shirt for $5,” explained Vogelsong, who was the vice presi- dent of sales and merchandising at American Apparel and has the same title at Upcycle. “You should not be paying less for your shirt than you do for a latte.” Oak NYC Moves to Row DTLA ➥ Upcycle page 8

By Andrew Asch Retail Editor be opening its first downtown LA location. In a way, this new location is a bit of déjà vu. That’s be- INSIDE: After a four-year run in the Beverly Boulevard shopping cause the New York–headquartered brand had a store on Where fashion gets down to business SM district of Los Angeles, Oak NYC closed its 4,500-square- and Ninth Street in downtown’s Fashion District foot boutique earlier this month and relocated to the Row that ran for a couple of years before closing in 2015. DTLA enclave in . The store’s traffic plummeted after a parking lot next to Oak’s lease for its Beverly Boulevard store had expired, the store closed to make way for a new apartment complex cofounder Jeff Madalena said, and the shop’s multi-brand called Broadway Palace. selection of merchandise had changed to being more vertical. The new Oak shop has a view of the brand’s old headquar- It doesn’t take as much space to showcase a single brand as ters. From 2013 to 2015, Oak was owned by American Ap- opposed to many. parel, which manufactured Oak garments at its downtown 2 3 Its 2,000-square-foot space at Row DTLA will devote LA factory. some square footage to other brands, but the majority of the American Apparel sold Oak back to Madalena and Terline in Maui & Sons ... p. 2 industrial-chic space will be devoted to the Oak brand. 2016 during its first bankruptcy filing. At the beginning of 2017, Guess goes sustainable ... p. 3 Madalena and Oak cofounder Louis Terline were inter- Gildan Activewear acquired American Apparel’s brand name ested in opening a downtown Los Angeles store, but they and moved its manufacturing out of downtown Los Angeles. New exec at SPESA ... p. 3 wanted a place that offered parking. Row DTLA offers Madalena said it was funny being given a tour near his a sprawling, multilevel parking structure and is in a retail old offices. “During all the meetings, real-estate developers Bangkok Style fair ... p. 6 neighborhood where prominent streetwear boutique Bodega would explain the site. I would say, ‘Well, we had offices is located and the highly anticipated restaurant Tartine will over there for years.’” ● www.apparelnews.net

01,8-9.cover.indd 1 4/26/18 5:46 PM RETAIL The Kardashians Take Down Their Retail Sign After a 12-year run, the Kardashians are ness endeavors. “We’ve loved running With the Kardashians.” Ratings began to fall ion houses—including Marc Jacobs, Isa- closing up shop and getting out of the retail- Dash, but in the last few years we’ve all last year, and there was a flurry of media bel Marant, Monique Lhuillier and Bal- store business. grown so much individually,” Kim Kar- stories on whether the fashion cachet of the main—were located. The reality-TV family made the an- dashian West wrote in a post. “We’ve been reality-TV family was slipping. But some However, Dash didn’t quite fit in, said nouncement on social me- believe the women are still J’Net Nguyen, creative director of The dia, saying their two Dash important to fans. Right Brain Studio, a trend-forecasting stores—one in Miami and “The brand is not irrel- group. the other in West Holly- evant. The name remains “It was more of a novelty,” Nguyen said. wood, Calif.—will be clos- aspirational to many,” said “It was always filled with tourists. They just ing on May 28 and their Leslie Ghize, executive vice wanted to take photos. They didn’t want to e-boutique, www.shop- president for trend forecast- buy anything. They were there to immerse dashonline.com, is sched- ers TOBE. themselves in a celebrity experience.” uled to close May 20. But she wondered if the Contemporary with a similar “As all good things must Kardashians’ brands have silhouette could be found for cheaper prices come to an end, thank you kept pace with a genera- at stores further east on Melrose Avenue, to all of our fans, custom- tion of young women who, Nguyen said. Dash focused on its self- ers, our team and partners in the last 19 months, have named house brand, Dash. It also sold some for the incredible love and developed a bigger interest third-party brands including Kendall + Ky- support! It took a lot of in social activism. “The suc- lie, owned by younger sisters Kendall and hard work and commitment cess of the Kardashian name Kylie Jenner; Norma Kamali; Nookie; and from Kim, Kourtney and capitalizes on a specific Young Fabulous & Broke. Khloé to have been around worldview. Today, a brand The West Dash store is lo- this long,” the family said needs to evolve with their cated in a neighborhood with low vacancy, on the shop’s Instagram customer rather than stay said Jay Luchs, vice chairman of New- and Twitter accounts. rigidly on brand as was once mark Knight Frank, who put the less than A call to a Kardashian prescribed,” Ghize said. 2,000-square-foot space on the market. family-business office, Momager Inc., re- busy running our own brands, as well as The West Hollywood Dash was located Monthly rents in the neighborhood range questing more information on the closures, being moms and balancing work with our across the street from the ritzy Melrose from $7 to $12 per square foot. was not answered by press time. families. We know in our hearts that it’s Place designer enclave where top-tier fash- —Andrew Asch The first Dash store opened in 2006 in time to move on.” Calabasas, Calif., the same neighborhood Kim Kardashian West is managing a where the Kardashians grew up. Later a makeup line called KKW Beauty while NEWS store was opened in New York City but Khloé launched a jeans line last year called closed in 2016. A reality-TV show called Good American, and Kourtney Kar- “Dash Dolls” ran for one season in 2015. dashian is about to launch a new line with When the first store opened, there was younger sister Kylie Jenner called Kourt Maui and Sons Announces a shopping frenzy at the boutique, but the x Kylie. Kardashian women lately have been busy The stores’ demise follows declining rat- American Eagle Collaboration Line raising families and engaging in other busi- ings for the family’s show, “Keeping Up With the help of Maui and Sons, Ameri- areas for years. can Eagle Outfitters is going surf. The brand’s clothes have been sold at Ma- On June 1, the denim-focused American cy’s, Pacific Sunwear, Zara and The Buckle Eagle will debut a collaboration line, called as well as action sports–friendly retailers in- American Eagle x Maui and Sons, with the cluding Tilly’s. heritage surf brand, said Blake Harrington, In 2017, Maui and Sons made a licens- The concept executive vice president of licensing and busi- ing deal with Irvine, Calif.–headquartered Z ness development at Maui and Sons, head- Supply’s Icons of Culture division to make quartered in Los Angeles’ Pacific Palisades a women’s line. Harrington said that Icons of of factoring neighborhood. The collaboration line will be available exclusively at all Amer- is simple: ican Eagle doors, which number more than 1,000 stores in North America, China and Hong Kong. Looks will include hoodies, French terry sweatshirts and denim shirt jackets with Maui and Sons’ logo embroidered on the back, Harrington said. Fol- You Give Us Your Invoice. lowing Maui and Sons’ roots in 1980s surf and skateboard styles, there will be T-shirts We Give You the Money. with bright colors. Some of the T-shirts and oth- You Pay Your Bills. er garments will have a worn, vintage look. Culture for the Spring/Summer 2018 season is There also will be a few looks for women, currently available in stores, including Tilly’s which include tank tops and crop tops. The and Jack’s Surfboards. Factoring Made Simple. collaboration’s tops are intended to be mer- Licensing and collaborations make up 10 chandised with the retailer’s denim. American percent of Maui and Sons’ business. “It’s a No bells, unnecessary, really. No whistles, not Eagle, based in Pittsburgh, will manufacture great business driver and a great way to mix needed as well. No tricks. Ditto. most of the clothes. products,” Harrington said. “It’s very impor- Maui and Sons will manufacture swim- tant to us.” At Goodman Factors, we simply offer smart, wear and the collaboration line’s accesso- The American Eagle collaboration started dedicated good service from an experienced ries, including skateboard decks, Frisbees in September 2017 when Harrington met with team of pros. Along with money at competitive and caps. Maui and Sons snacks, including American Eagle executives at the Licensing coconut chips, will be sold at various Ameri- Expo in Las Vegas. rates when you need it—today, for instance. can Eagle flagships. After the two companies agreed to col- “It was tied together in a nice way,” Har- laborate, American Eagle sent five of their rington said. “It gives us more of a consumer designers to scour Maui and Sons’ archives base. It will attract more people to Maui and in a warehouse in Rancho Cucamonga, Calif. Goodman Factors Sons and American Eagle,” he said. They went through original artwork from the — Since 1972 — Maui and Sons has been selling surfwear 1980s and selected a dozen graphics and prints since the Reagan administration. Its various to reproduce. logos—which include a muscular man with a “They were very hands-on,” Harrington Please call 877-4-GOODMAN shark’s head and a round dark circle filled with said. “I flew over there. It took nine months or visit us at goodmanfactors.com. Simple, right? the brand’s name and colorful, geometric fig- to put it together. It was a big effort for ures—have been common sights around surf everyone.”—A.A.

2 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS APRIL 27–MAY 3, 2018 APPARELNEWS.NET

02.news.indd 2 4/26/18 5:25 PM NEWS Orange Coast College Launches an Apparel Sustainability Program The future of the fashion job market is green, said Lau- com, which said it intends to continue to embrace sustain- terest from students and faculty suggestions to offer more ren Becker, the fashion department coordinator at Orange ability. classes in sustainability. Students must take three separate Coast College in Costa Mesa, Calif. In February, Volcom was accredited as a member of the sustainability classes to complete the program. It’s why her institution recently announced it will be of- Fair Labor Association, which Sab- While courses about apparel fering an Apparel Industry Sustainability certificate program ori helped with his advice. A handful sustainability are rare, demand is next fall. While other colleges offer degrees in sustainable of companies in Costa Mesa and Los increasing, said Lindsay Fox, fash- design, OCC will be the first community college in Southern Angeles embrace sustainable manu- ion instructor and department chair California to offer a standalone certificate program, which facturing, including Outerknown, at Saddleback College in Mission starts in September. “This is a field of growth in job place- Vissla and Reformation. Viejo, Calif. “The industry and mar- ment,” Becker said. “If you’re paying attention to the indus- Much of the information on sus- ketplace is becoming more aware of try, it’s a must.” tainability studies is so new that the practices of sustainability, and OCC is located only 15 minutes away from a number of there is not much written about it in specific companies are making this action-sports labels in Orange County. academia, Sabori said. “This is com- a cornerstone. We are trying to meet Earlier this month, the certificate program’s instructor, ing straight from the industry. It’s this need,” she said. Derek Sabori, taught a two-day seminar to introduce the pro- hard to find in a textbook,” he said. Saddleback has run an occupa- gram to potential students. It was filled to capacity, Becker Students in the certificate program tional skills “award,” or mini cer- said. are eligible to learn about sustain- tificate, in sustainable fashion and Sabori, who started Volcom’s sustainability initiative ability in a real work environment social entrepreneurship for more more than 10 years ago and holds a master’s of business ad- through internships at companies in- than seven years. It requires 15 to ministration from the University of California, Irvine, will cluding Volcom. Field trips to brands 17 class units and can be completed be a principal part of the program. working in sustainable fashion will under a year. He has been a part-time instructor at the college since be scheduled and speakers from In addition, San Diego Mesa 2005 and was Volcom’s vice president, global sustainabil- those companies are anticipated to College is in the process of creating ity, until 2015, when he left to start a consulting career and lecture. an 18-unit, cross-discipline fashion launch the sustainable men’s yoga brand Kozm. Classes in the certificate program sustainability certificate. When French luxe conglomerate Kering acquired Vol- include “Introduction to Sustainabil- Also, the University of Dela- com in 2011, Kering started an ambitious program to make ity in Business and Fashion,” which Derek Sabori ware offers a graduate certificate its products and operations as eco-friendly as possible. looks at the elements of sustainabil- in being socially responsible and Under Kering, Sabori frequently worked with people at ity, the effects of material used in the process and supply sustainable in the apparel, and footwear business. It the leading edge of sustainability studies who consulted or chains. Another course will be “Apparel Industry—The En- consists of nine, one-credit courses offered online. worked with Kering’s family of brands, including Gucci and vironment, Ethical Business Practices and The Law.” And the London College of Fashion has a center for sus- Saint Laurent. Becker and Sabori started working on the certificate pro- tainable fashion where a master’s degree in fashion and the Earlier this year, Kering announced it planned to sell Vol- gram’s curriculum in September 2017 after receiving in- environment is offered to graduate students.—Andrew Asch

New Hire at SPESA as Texprocess Americas and Techtextil North America Plan Events The Raleigh, N.C.–based Sewn Products Equipment As part of this year’s Texprocess Americas 2018, Gerber Paragon Cutter. & Suppliers of the Americas (SPESA) has hired Michael Technology will unveil its replica costumes created from Micro-factory demonstrations will feature the Omron McDonald, the former manager of government relations for designs featured in the 20th Century Fox film “The Great- Autonomous Mobile Robot, an autonomous intelligence the American Apparel & Footwear Association, as its new est Showman.” Partnering with Global Garment Engineer- vehicle whose abilities promote efficiency through automa- executive director, a position he assumed March 15. ing, Gerber was able to fulfill a request by 20th Century Fox tion. In collaboration with Gerber Technology, Henderson In this role, he will work with the trade association’s to efficiently create lower-cost replica costumes to support Sewing Machine Co., Kornit Digital, Nextwave and Zund president, Benton Gardner, and managing director, Dave the film’s 2017 release. During its presentation, Gerber will America Inc., their micro-factory demonstrations will Gardner, until they retire at the end of 2018, at which time show how these replicas were created using technologies showcase methods for more efficient product design, digital McDonald will be heading up the organization. such as YuniquePLM, YuSnap, Silhouette Table, Accu- printing, automated vision-aided cutting, material transport In addition to his new role, McDonald has served as North mark, Accumark 3D, Accunest, XLs125 Spreader and and robotic sewing.—Dorothy Crouch Carolina State University’s adviser for the textile apparel technology management student advisory board, an adjunct professor, teaching assistant and guest lecturer while pursuing a doctoral degree in textile-technology management. During this transition, SPESA’s trade-show production Guess? Inc. Joins the Movement to Make partner, Messe Frankfurt Inc., announced additional Better Denim Jeans for the Environment offerings for the fourth edi- tion of its equipment expo, As an apparel brand whose denim products represent 20 coursework in sustainability through focusing on zero waste Texprocess Americas, and percent to 25 percent of its business, Guess? Inc. hopes to and circular design. 15th annual Techtextil North reduce the environmental threats that often result from mak- “Many of our employees—particularly those in denim Americas, which showcases ing its jeans. production, have been briefed and support this initiative,” technical and nonwo- After calculating its denim water footprint, the company Herrero said. “But we need to train all members of our de- vens. on April 18 announced its partnership with the Better Cot- sign, sourcing and production team on BCI so that we can Held concurrently in Atlan- ton Initiative (BCI). The move came as the Los Angeles work together to increase our sourcing efforts and commu- ta’s Georgia World Congress company developed its sustainable-practices plan based on nicate involvement to our vendors.” Center, the events will run its 2016–2017 sustainability report. Communicating this message to its vendors is a major May 22–24 and feature more Guess discovered that the processing of cotton was re- part of the Guess pledge to decrease unnecessary water us- than 500 exhibitors from dif- sponsible for 64 percent of the water used during the produc- age during the manufacturing process for its denim. The new Michael McDonald ferent regions of the world. tion of one denim jean, said Victor Herrero, Guess’s chief challenge lies in examining how its sources processed cotton At various sessions, Tech- executive officer. and working with those suppliers who have not yet adopted textil North America will explore topics such as “Emerg- “The Better Cotton Initiative is a wholistic program that best practices. ing and New Developments in Nonwovens,” “New Fiber includes water stewardship as part of its production prin- “Increasing our sourcing of Better Cotton will be an Technologies,” “Smart Textiles” and “Technical Textiles: ciples but also includes additional environmental and social added step to our process where we must determine who Enabling Future Mobility in Electric & Smart Cars.” focus areas for cotton farmers,” he explained. “This is an in our supply chain is already a member of BCI and, if not, At Texprocess Americas, attendees can attend sessions organization that has shown great results for making true how we can encourage them to become involved,” Herrero that cover “Automation, Smart Machines and Robotics in positive impact and scalable, industrywide change.” explained. Sewn Products Manufacturing,” “Wearable Tech and Tex- In addition to working with BCI to examine its total cot- With $2.4 billion in annual revenues for fiscal year 2018 tiles: Communication through Clothing?” and “Tariffs, Du- ton sourcing use, Guess is exploring other methods of water and premium denim that retails at $100, Guess has no plans ties and Barriers—Oh, My!” preservation, such as identifying solutions through innova- to increase its price points for goods in this category despite its In collaboration with the Nonwovens Institute, Tech- tion in technology and product development for its denim partnership with BCI, which is good news for consumers. As textil North America will again feature Tech Talks—which business. A company supported by 14,000 employees glob- the new generation of Guess customers becomes increasingly were popular at the 2017 show—as Texprocess Americas ally, Guess’s initiative must include the cooperation of ev- conscientious regarding protecting the environment, Herrero introduces its own version of these sessions in partnership eryone who works in denim development. believes the brand’s efforts will be embraced by its clientele. with the Fashion Institute of Technology and performance The company has educated many of its employees re- “Our customers, in general, are millennials and increas- streetwear brand Voice of Insiders. garding its commitment to support sustainable apparel ingly Gen Z, who are known for caring about social and At Techtextil North America, the “High-Tex from Ger- manufacturing. It has also enrolled some of its designers environmental responsibility,” he said. “We are confident many” exhibition will showcase 66 of Germany’s textile, and patternmakers into a Guess-sponsored class at the Fash- that our customers will be excited about our shift to more- textile-machinery and garment-technology companies. ion Institute of Design & Merchandising, which includes sustainable practices.”—D.C.

APPARELNEWS.NET APRIL 27–MAY 3, 2018 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 3

03.news.indd 3 4/26/18 5:27 PM NEWS Bebe Selling Its Main Office in Los Angeles Long-time retailer Bebe, which was such as English Laundry, Nanette Lepore based in Northern California but had a major and Catherine Malandrino. presence in Los Angeles, said it is selling its The stores might have been dead, but last main LA office building for $28.5 million. August, Bluestar Alliance came out with a A buyer was not disclosed for the build- new collection of sexy dresses with new siz- ing at 10345 W. Olympic Blvd., where the es and new categories. Later, the Bebe brand retailer’s design studios once were located. opened its first lifestyle store in New York The deal is expected to close on May 21. City, located near the Empire State Build- Last year, the publicly traded company ing at 1 W. 34th St. shut down all 168 of its retail stores, laid off Licensing revenue for the second quarter 700 employees and now is making money of this year totaled $2.1 million from BB from licensing its brand name. Brand Holdings, Bebe’s operating subsid- The strategy was part of the remake of iary. Bebe plans to distribute its share of li- Bebe, a once fashion-centric retail chain censing income, minus company operating started in San Francisco in 1976 by Iranian- expenses, to shareholders starting in the first American businessman Manny Mashouf. quarter of 2019. The shuttering of stores and closing the In addition, Joe Scirocco, the company’s company’s design studio and offices helped managing director, treasurer and principal fi- the retail chain avoid bankruptcy after sell- nancial and accounting officer, resigned from ing half the brand for $35 million to Blue- his job, effective April 20. Company executives star Alliance, a New York brand-manage- said Scirocco’s resignation further streamlines ment company that has snapped up labels company expenses.—Deborah Belgum Mountain Hardwear Names New Marketing Director Mountain Hardwear, the Northern Cal- modern way of communicating that outdoor ifornia outdoors wear company owned by brands fail to tap into.” Columbia Sportswear, has named a new Burns has several years of experience with head of marketing. companies in Silicon Valley and beyond. Snow Burns is coming on Prior to joining Mountain Hard- board as the global vice presi- wear, she led the strategy, social dent of marketing and will be media and analytics teams at responsible for all aspects of John McNeil Studio, a mar- the brand’s integrated market- keting agency in Berkeley, Ca- ing strategy. Part of that strat- lif. Before that, she was head of egy will be to engage a world- global social content strategy at wide community of climbers CA Technologies, a large inde- and inform them about the pendent software company. brand’s commitment to its Mountain Hardwear, based technical equipment, outerwear in Richmond, Calif., was and sportswear for people who founded in 1993 to make spend a lot of time in the moun- tough outdoor gear. Its expedi- Snow Burns tains or the outdoors. tion tents have summited some “We are excited to have of the world’s tallest peaks, Snow bring her expertise to our brand and and its clothing and other gear employs industry,” said Mountain Hardwear Presi- technology in all its designs. It was acquired dent Joe Vernachio. “We feel there is a more by Columbia Sportswear in 2003.—D.B. Calendar April 29 May 5 Convention Center Guatemala City, Guatemala Midwest Apparel Trade Show Woodbury University’s 54th Through May 17 1445 Lake Cook Road Annual Fashion Show Deerfield, Ill. Millennium Biltmore May 21 Through April 30 Los Angeles Apparel Textile Sourcing Miami Otis College of Art and Design’s May 3 Mana Wynwood Convention Center 36th Annual Scholarship Benefit Miami TPC’s Spring Networking Event and Fashion Show Through May 23 Pez Cantina Elaine and Bram Goldsmith Los Angeles Campus Coast Seagate Country Club Imprinted Sportswear Show Los Angeles Delray Beach, Fla. George R. Brown Convention Through May 22 Center May 11 Houston The NBM Show Through May 5 Oregon Convention Center There’s more Portland, Ore. on ApparelNews.net. May 4 Through May 12 Fashion and Sustainability For calendar details and contact Summit May 15 information, visit ApparelNews. Maxwell Hall, LIM College Apparel Sourcing Show net/calendar. New York Grand Tikal Futura Hotel and

Submissions to the calendar should be faxed to the Calendar Editor at (213) 623-5707. Please include the event’s name, date, time, location, admission price and contact information. The deadline for calendar submissions is the Tuesday prior to Friday publication. Inclusion in the calendar is subject to available space and the judgment of the editorial staff.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802. CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS®: (ISSN 0008-0896) Published by TLM PUBLISHING INC. APPAREL NEWS GROUP Publishers of: California Apparel News®, Market Week Magazine®, New Resources®, Water­wear®, New York Apparel News®, Dallas Apparel News®, Apparel News South®, Chicago Apparel News®, The Apparel News (National), Bridal Apparel News®, Southwest Images®, Stylist® and MAN (Men’s Apparel News®). Prop- erties of TLM PUBLISHING INC., California Market Center, 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777, Los Angeles, CA 90079, (213) 627-3737. © Copyright 2018 TLM Publishing Inc. All rights reserved. Pub­lished weekly except semi-weekly first week of January, second week of July and first week of September. Periodicals Postage Paid at Los Angeles, CA, and additional entry offices. The publishers of the paper do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Opinions expressed in signed editorial columns or articles do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publishers. Subscription rates: U.S.: 1 year, $89; 2 years, $140. Foreign: $180 U.S. funds (1-year subscription only). Single-copy price $2.99. Send subscription requests to: California Apparel News, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802 or visit www.apparelnews.net. For customer service, call (866) 207-1448.

4 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS APRIL 27–MAY 3, 2018 APPARELNEWS.NET

04.news.calendar.indd 4 4/26/18 5:29 PM SHAPING AFTER

Because we take denim seriously we created an equation:

COMFORTABLE LOCAL SHAPING

ADVANCED SHAPING ONLY WHERE IT IS SMART STRETCH NEEDED WITHOUT SACRIFICING COMFORT

calik.indd 1 2/6/18 3:17 PM TRADE SHOW REPORT New Style Fair in Bangkok Has Something for Everyone

By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor stop opportunity to pick up clothing, textiles, jewelry, candles At the October show, U.S. buyers from Crate & Barrel and soaps as well as throw pillows, furniture, lamps, pet prod- bought home accessories. Several companies that supply Dis- BANGKOK, Thailand — Inside the vast international ex- ucts and pottery. About 2,000 buyers were expected to pass ney with products shopped the floor too. hibition center that houses the newly created Style fair, the through the exhibition hall for the show. For the April show, the Thai government sponsored the at- brightly colored hand-painted dresses and tops that make up Chantira Jimreivat Vivatrat, the director general of Thailand’s tendance of 600 buyers, who either had their hotels paid for or the Yodyoko collection were a standout. Department of International Trade Promotion, said the smaller, in- had both their airfare and hotel covered. The swirls of lines and bursts of colors have been a staple dividual trade shows that were one- or two-products centric tended Still, the show seemed to be sparsely attended. “This show of the brand since it was created 10 years ago by Sirus Fanti- not to attract as many people as larger shows. For example, the should be jam-packed,” said David Lamey, a buyer who was yapong. This was the designer’s second time exhibiting at the smaller fashion and leather goods show only had 400 booths. looking for backpacks and furniture and other items to sell on- fair—which combines fashion labels, textiles, furniture, gifts, “There was the realization that people travel less to shows line for his Magic I Solutions. “Where are the customers?” skincare products and home One of the more fre- accessories under one roof. quented sections of the He was exhibiting his cre- show was the area where ative designs to gain more many of Thailand’s arti- international attention. “This sans based around Chang is a good opportunity to show Mai in the north were the world our product,” Fanti- showing indigo-dyed yapong said. clothing, organic-cotton At last October’s show, he scarves, handmade dresses received a 500-piece order and jewelry. from a company in Singapore Panja Suwanich was and a 200-piece order from a showing his colorful jew- venture in Germany. He was elry and clothing that he hoping for more this time Panja Suwanich and Decha Mengthaisong Sirus Fantiyapong of Yodyoko Creative fabrics from northern Thailand and his partner, Decha around. of Heritage Mengthaisong, have been For years, Thailand orga- making at their store in nized just one trade show for fashion and leather goods and and the shows have to be unique for people to attend,” she said. Chang Mai under the label Heritage. He is relatively new to then several separate trade shows around other locally made “The shows were not big enough, and Thailand is very diversi- exporting but would like to expand beyond his orders sent to products, which included furniture and gifts. fied. So it becomes a little bit of everything.” Santa Fe, N.M., and Europe. “A few buyers have come by, and But over the years, the smaller shows were not attracting as Buyers these days are also looking more for lifestyle items we have exchanged cards,” he said. many buyers because fewer people were attending the events. instead of just one kind of item to fill their stores as it gets hard- As soon as he said that, Ritchie Philibert from Quebec Instead, they are opting to find merchandise online or visiting er to attract shoppers. In addition, the show is concentrating on rounded the corner and stopped at the artfully displayed booth individual manufacturers. more naturally made products, including organic cotton, silk, to take a look at the silk necklaces and beaded necklaces that So, last year the Thai government decided to combine three organic skincare products and furniture made from ethically were handmade. Philibert concentrates on fair trade and ethi- fairs into one to give customers more bang for their travel buck. harvested forests. cally sourced items for his two stores in Quebec. The new show—called Style—recently held its second edition on Because Taiwan and Japan are two markets that Thailand He visits Thailand twice a year to work with manufacturers April 19–23 in the large Bangkok International Trade & Exhi- is targeting, there was special attention paid to products that that do crinkled-cotton items for him. “We have some estab- bition Center. The first edition of the show was last October. would cater to the senior-citizen market. Products included lished manufacturers we work with, but we are always looking This year, about 630 companies occupied nearly 1,700 lightweight fabrics for garments and purses, scarves with col- to add new products,” he said. “Thailand definitely has its own booths in a fair that gives retailers and company buyers a one- lagen and anything with a soft fabric. style.” ●

FASHION Coachella Spawns Tons of Parties and Fashion

What would the Coachella Valley Mu- sic and Arts Festival be without a flood of fashion that gives designers a clue as to what styles are trending? The 10-day festival in Indio, Calif., wrapped up on April 22 with the conclu- sion of a number of concerts and beaucoup parties that dotted the desert scene. Many of the parties—mostly in Palm Springs— were hosted by fashion and style concerns including The Zoe Report, Lucky Brand, Adidas, Revolve Clothing and Vampped. com. Hot hotel spots included the Ace Ho- tel, Parker Palm Springs and the V Palm Springs. Short shorts, anything in denim, cropped tops, flowy dresses and very large sun- glasses were in. Here’s a look at some of the styles and trends that were popular at this year’s festival.—D.B. TIM REGAS

6 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS APRIL 27–MAY 3, 2018 APPARELNEWS.NET

06.fashion-tradeshow.indd 6 4/26/18 5:57 PM progressive-can.indd 1 3/8/18 7:03 PM NEWS Get Inspired! WE KNOW FABRIC! Hundreds of Stocked WE KNOW FASHION! Upcycle Continued from page 1 Novelty Knits, The growing Los Angeles–based Wovens, Linings company has already expanded from its and More! 5,000-square-foot headquarters on 31st Street to an additional 10,000-square-foot One Roll Minimum. showroom space on East 11th Street. Its products are made in Southern California. www.cinergytextiles.com Upcycle keeps its manufacturing local, which helps the company practice what it Tel: 213-748-4400 preaches regarding sustainability as it part- [email protected] ners only with businesses that share its mis- sion. “Everything that we do from and dyeing to sewing and washing is done within a 25-mile radius, so that keeps our footprint very small,” Vogelsong said. BOBBY ESCOBEDO Models wear Upcycle while standing in front of At the core of its wholesale and manufac- a scrap-filled shipping container turing business is Upcycle’s focus on reused materials to create many of its pieces. Be- hind the East 11th Street location, a 20-foot- Giving new life to unwanted fabric scraps long shipping container sits, overflowing isn’t Upcycle’s only method of responsible with two weeks’ worth of scraps from the manufacturing. Through using recycled company’s finished products. water bottles and postindustrial cotton, the Each container holds approximately company in January launched its Recycle 7,000 pounds of textile waste that will not Collection—which wholesales from $7 to be discarded in a landfill. Instead, it will be $10—by following a closed-loop manufac- processed to produce new fabrics used by turing plan that yields yarns used exclusive- Upcycle’s 100 sewers, who are able to make ly by Upcycle. 100,000 pieces per week. Currently, the Spun by an East Coast–based mill, the yarn also includes the spinner’s excess postindustrial cotton. With this material, Upcycle is able to manufacture a T-shirt that com- prises the equivalent of five re- cycled water bottles. “The yarn is proprietary to us, and it is 60 percent RPET (re- cycled polyethylene terephthal- ate). So it’s the recycled water bottles, and all that poly comes from the U.S.,” Vogelsong said. “The postindustrial cotton is ac- tually from our mill spinning its yarn. It’s all the waste that comes Tabitha Vogelsong off that nobody uses. So they took that 40 percent postindustrial cot- sewers are making 60,000 to 75,000 pieces ton, and we spun the custom yarn for our- a week. selves.” “Basically, as we’re producing every- Many of Upcycle’s clients hail from the thing, we gather all the scraps from the man- streetwear segment, which serves the com- ufacturing process,” Vogelsong explained. pany’s goal of representing the nontradi- “All those scraps are then upcycled back tional, conscientious consumer. Emphasiz- into yarn. So, really from this whole pro- ing that its customers don’t have to fit into cess, we’re taking everything and recycling the mold of an eco-warrior hippie or yogi it to use wherever to care about how it’s needed.” apparel manufac- This dedication turing affects the isn’t reserved for environment, Vogel- Upcycle’s manufac- song wants to make turing process but sustainable clothing also includes con- more approachable vincing its partners for everyone. to join the move- “We want to al- ment toward sus- ways keep LA as the tainability. backdrop of every- “They’ll say, thing, and we want- ‘Okay, I’ll do it, but ed to be a little bit does it cost more more forward, not WEB PRODUCTION PRODUCTION MANAGER money?’ and it that typical organic- MORGAN WESSLER KENDALL IN doesn’t,” she said. looking, sustainable CREATIVE MARKETING DIRECTOR EDITORIAL DESIGNER LOUISE DAMBERG JOHN FREEMAN FISH “People don’t know company,” she said. DIRECTOR OF SALES AND MARKETING CREDIT MANAGER about it. It’s kind of To expand its 731945-2018 TERRY MARTINEZ Upcycle’s factory space on East 11th Street RITA O’CONNOR an antiquated indus- reach, Upcycle is Seventy-three years of news, SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE fashion and information AMY VALENCIA PUBLISHED BY try where people just incorporating the ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE TLM PUBLISHING INC. CEO/PUBLISHER think waste is the norm. It goes out in the theme of responsible manufacturing in all of LYNNE KASCH TERRY MARTINEZ APPAREL NEWS GROUP dumpster and it gets thrown away.” its messaging, such as its #AskHowItsMade BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Publishers of: MOLLY RHODES California Apparel News From dye houses that have adopted re- social-media campaign, which launched on EXECUTIVE EDITOR SALES ASSISTANT/RECEPTIONIST Waterwear Decorated sponsible waste-management practices to Earth Day, or reusable shopping bags cre- DEBORAH BELGUM ASHLEY KOHUT RETAIL EDITOR ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANTS EXECUTIVE OFFICE knitters who are now returning pallets to ated from recycled water bottles, which fea- ANDREW ASCH CHRIS MARTIN California Market Center yarn houses for reuse, Vogelsong explains ture the words “I practice responsible manu- ASSOCIATE EDITOR RACHEL MARTINEZ 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777 how the shift toward more-sustainable ap- facturing.” While Vogelsong plans to expand DOROTHY CROUCH SALES ASSISTANT Los Angeles, CA 90079-1777 PENNY ROTHKE-SIMENSKY (213) 627-3737 parel production required changing long- the Recycled Collection, she is also excited EDITORIAL MANAGER Fax (213) 623-5707 CLASSIFIED ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES JOHN IRWIN Classified Advertising Fax standing assumptions prevalent throughout about taking Upcycle’s offerings beyond ZENNY R. KATIGBAK CONTRIBUTORS (213) 623-1515 JEFFERY YOUNGER the industry. water bottles by exploring other recycled ALYSON BENDER www.apparelnews.net VOLKER CORELL CLASSIFIED ACCOUNTING [email protected] “We want people to take notice. We don’t materials. JOHN ECKMIER MARILOU DELA CRUZ JOHN McCURRY care if you’re a competitor or not—every- “Whether it’s recycled water bottles or SERVICE DIRECTORY ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE ESTEVAN RAMOS Printed in the U.S.A. body just needs to be responsible,” she ex- recycled anything ... the reality is everything TIM REGAS JUNE ESPINO N. JAYNE SEWARD plained. “We want to pretty much set the bar that is polyester could really move to that HOPE WINSBOROUGH NATALIE ZFAT in the industry to show people it can be done world,” she said. “Instead of using tradition- and it can be done in the right way.” al poly, just use the RPET version.” ●

8 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS APRIL 27–MAY 3, 2018 APPARELNEWS.NET

01,8-9.cover.indd 8 4/26/18 5:47 PM RETAIL

American Rag Continued from page 1 included Werts. He asked panelists Josh Goldman, senior vice president Werts has quietly shuttered his company’s Industrie Denim of Brookfield Properties, retail, and division with locations in San Francisco and Scottsdale, Brendan Kotler, development director Ariz. for Westfield, about the direction of Werts was one of several speakers at the second annual retail centers. Marcum Retail Symposium, held April 19 at the JW Mar- Goldman said there’s still a lot of riott hotel in downtown Los Angeles. business in retail centers. “Anybody who says retail is dead doesn’t know the real story. Retail is transition- ing,” he said. “But it is The Marcum panel, from left: Leslie Ghize, Josh Goldman, Brendan Kotler, Mark Werts and Ron Friedman transitioning from being transactional to being experiential.” Services, said that a lot of business opportunity remains He believes that consumers will continue to for bricks-and-mortar stores. They might serve as distribu- need places to gather and be social. Malls will tion centers for retailers. He also believes the retail industry offer those places, and developers who thrive needs to find a way to bring back fashion, enticing consum- will be the ones creative enough to change ers to buy more clothing. shopping centers into places that offer unique Panelist Andrew Rotondi, chief operations/information experiences. officer of Dynamic Worldwide Logistics USA Inc., said Goldman also mentioned Brookfield’s proj- that inventory management is becoming more crucial than ect to redevelop the California Market Cen- ever. He forecast a market where an increasing number of re- ter, a showroom building that is an important tailers will look to technologies, including RFID, to manage anchor in downtown LA’s Fashion District. their inventory. “Stores are going to get smaller, inventories “Here is a historic fashion mart based on the will get more accurate and vendor management of invento- Sherwin “Ace” Ross and Ron Friedman Mark Werts transaction. There is a great opportunity to take ries will be critical to the success of bricks-and-mortar,” he advantage of the underlying real estate and tran- said. sition it to a grand experience. It’s an experi- Panelist Javier Carreras, an executive director at JP Mor- Accounting and advisory firm Marcum LLP produced ence that will speak to people in downtown LA. It will speak gan Chase Bank, talked about rising interest rates affecting the symposium to chart how fashion and retail are navigat- to the history of the project and be a place where people retail. “Since 2015, the Fed has raised rates six times. We ing tough markets. Speakers discussed subjects encompass- want to gather,” Goldman said. expect to see two more rate increases for 2018. If there’s a ing retail, fashion, technology, logistics, retail real estate and The partially Brookfield-owned project features 2 million greater push to have more inventory levels, it means com- factoring. square feet of classic office space with 200,000 square feet panies have to borrow, which will put additional strain on During the symposium, Werts explained why American of ground-floor retail and restaurants. manufacturers and a lot of distributors,” Carreras said. Rag was expanding overseas. “Would you rather open up in Kotler discussed Westfield’s $1 billion remodel of West- To start the symposium, Beth Goldstein, The NPD a market that has 9 percent to 10 percent growth or one that field Century City. He agreed that retailers need to develop Group’s executive director and industry analyst for acces- has extreme competition and an economy that the govern- experiences and new ways to deliver retail excitement. One sories and footwear, discussed the changing market for fash- ment says is growing 2 percent to 3 percent?” he asked. way to do that at Westfield Century City was with a perma- ion retail. She said consumers were seeking comfort, conve- Opening stores in air-conditioned malls in places such as nent space used to host new pop-up shops every six weeks. nience and curation from retailers and fashion. the Persian Gulf makes sense for people who want to take The Hermès fashion house produced a laundromat-style Leslie Ghize, an executive vice president of the lifestyle a break from the region’s heat. In the United States, there is pop-up in November. think tank TOBE, also talked about consumers’ changing still a lot of growth for e-commerce, Werts said. Ilse Metchek, president of the California Fashion As- tastes and what they want from retailers. They’re interested Ron Friedman, head of Marcum’s retail and consumer- sociation, led a panel on technology, logistics and factor- in more-unique products, which will benefit retailers confi- products industry group, moderated the retail panel, which ing. Panelist Marc Heller, president of CIT Commercial dent in trusting their gut to make merchandising decisions. ●

NEXT WEEK IN CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS MAY 4 Made in LA Advertorial BONUS DISTRIBUTION For information contact Terry Martinez Cover: Fashion Denim Advertorial Apparel Sourcing Show Guatemala 5/15–17 at (213) 627-3737 Techtextil 5/22–24 Denim Report or [email protected] for info Made in LA Texprocess 5/22–24 Technology

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$2.99 VOLUME 74, NUMBER 12 MARCH 23–29, 2018 $2.99 VOLUME 74, NUMBER 11 MARCH 16–22, 2018 $2.99 VOLUME 74, NUMBER 9 MARCH 2–8, 2018 YEARS YEARS YEARS THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 73 TRADE SHOW REPORT A Return to Hollywood THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 73 LA Market Sees Showrooms THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 73 The Big Issue of Glamour With Adrian and Stores Adjusting to the By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor label was introduced as a revival Microfibers in AB 2379 work nearly 60 years after the ‘New Normal’ in Retail Last fall, the Adrian MGM’s most By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor of designer Gilbert Adrian’s By Andrew Asch, Deborah Belgum and Dorothy Crouch founder’s passing. As a stylist for some of Last month, state Assembly member Richard Bloom intro- revered golden-age actors—including Greta Garbo, Joan Buyers fanned out to the various showroom buildings in the - Crawford and Judy Garland—Adrian laid the foundation for Los Angeles Fashion District for the March 12–14 run of Los duced Assembly Bill 2379 to the California State Legislature. old Hollywood glamour. Angeles Fashion Market, which was highlighting the fashions The bill would require manufacturers of clothing that comprises The new label first came out with a Spring/Summer 2018 for Fall/Winter 2018. more than 50 percent polyester to include a label recommend collection named “Papillon.” The label’s revival was led by The market’s three days of activity were punctuated by the ing consumers bypass the washing machine and handwash founder and designer Kate Silverman, who was working as arrival of President Donald Trump, whose entourage stayed at these items instead. the InterContinental Hotel in downtown Los Angeles, creat- It is Bloom’s hope that spelling out these instructions will an intern with Christian Dior by the age of 15 and became - fascinated with Adrian’s work while studying the Théâtre ing a constant traffic jam that started Tuesday afternoon and lead to increased consumer awareness of the potential environ- de la Mode during college. ended Wednesday morning. mental threats he says occur from synthetic microfiber shed- As a history enthusiast and fashion connoisseur, Silver At this market, many showroom owners felt buyers were ding. “Some of the [bill] advocates think that we should be mov- man was inspired not only by Adrian’s legacy but also the only visiting the brands they felt comfortable with and not ex- ing toward more draconian solutions, like banning synthetic absence of classic glamour in today’s market. The designer ploring untested labels. Attendee traffic throughout the district clothing. Those would have greater consequences that don’t emphasizes that her intention was to cultivate a modern in- was hit and miss, depending on the building and the showrooms make sense,” said the Democrat, whose district office is head- terpretation of Adrian’s creations, which were➥ influenced Adrian page by 8 as e-commerce takes a chunk out of sales that had once been quartered in Santa Monica. “We need to become more aware, the military, nature and butterflies. allocated only to boutiques and stores. ➥ LA Market page 6 At the California Market Center, traffic was slower than continue the research and take reasonable steps to reduce the Assembly Bill 2379 page 3 amount of microfibers in our aquifers➥ and go where the re-

Retail Moves Over to Making Tall Women New Owners of American Live Streaming Video Comfortable in Their Apparel Set Goal to By Andrew Asch Retail Editor Own Skinny Jeans Double Sales This Year

The days of selling clothing on e-commerce with still pho- By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor tographs are considered boring to Tina and Bryan Moore, who recently launched the e-platform TalkShopLive. When women who measure at least 5 feet 9 inches tall It has only been a little more than one year since Gil- The concept works this way. Entrepreneurs make pitches shop for denim, they are often left feeling as though styles dan Activewear acquired, the decades-old the intellectual-property Los Angeles rights apparel of through live streaming video, which gives the entrepreneurs such as flares or skinny jeans will end up resembling cropped American Apparel a potentially unlimited audience, according to the Los Ange- gauchos or capris. company that twice declared bankruptcy in a little more than les–based brother-and-sister team, who introduced the privately - Standing at 5 feet 11 inches, former model and actress one year. owned TalkShopLive in early March. Kathryn Brolin decided it was time to launch Midheaven At its peak, American Apparel’s revenues climbed to “While you are talking live, people are shopping,” Bryan Denim to provide solutions for other tall women who want nearly $634 million in 2013 before the long descent of the Moore said, pointing out what he sees as a hole in the market to find their ideal denim. company founded by Dov Charney in 1989. place. “Midheaven targets tall women like me who are looking Gildan took formal control of American Apparel in Feb- The rules for TalkShopLive are different compared to TV for inseams a bit longer than what is usually found out there, ruary 2017 and had a little more than one month to ramp up shopping networks, said Moore, who made a career produc- but we’ve been so pleased to see that women of even average new production and then get the label in front of wholesalers ing social-media content for broadcast television networks and heights are ordering and absolutely loving their Midheav- and consumers again. In that first year, Gildan took in $50 other entertainment outlets. ens. So, they’ve been rolling, they’ve been hemming, they’ve million in sales. This year, the goal is to double sales to $100 On his platform, entrepreneurs employing user-generated ➥ TalkShopLive page 3 been self-altering their jeans.” ➥ Midheaven page 3 million. content can sell from any location as long as they can connect to With a soft launch of four styles in January, Brolin is aim- Key to boosting revenues is the marketing team, which is ➥ American Apparel page 3 located in Los Angeles even though Gildan is headquartered

SM SM INSIDE: INSIDE: 7 SM Where fashion gets down to business Where fashion gets down to business INSIDE: MEDIEVAL TIMES Where fashion gets down to business 7 4 Fernando Alberto was one of several 2 2 8 GAME OF FASHION designers who showed during New York 7 Guess earnings down ... p. 2 Law firm departs Guess ... p. 2 Fashion Week. For more looks, see page 6. Agenda names new executive ... p. 2 This ethnic look created by Los Angeles Gap pushes factories to digital ... p. 2 COLOR CODED S.F. fur ban ... p. 3 Bachrach stores close ... p. 3 At LA Fashion Week, Los Angeles designer Nicholas Chinese tariffs ... p. 3 designer Nathalia Gaviria was seen at Art Understanding PLM ... p. 3 Gap earnings up ... p. 4 NuOrder online trade show ... p. 4 Hearts Fashion during Los Angeles Fashion Resource Guide ... p. 9 MR Magazine sold ... p. 9 Mayfield burst onto the runway with a colorful assortment Resource Guide ... p. 9 of clothing that incorporates his talents as an artist. For www.apparelnews.net Week. For more looks, see page 8. www.apparelnews.net more looks from LA Fashion Week, see page 6. www.apparelnews.net

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