1 the Best of Sweden
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1 The Best of Sweden Sweden presents visitors with an embarrassment of riches, everything from sophisticated cities to medieval towns to Europe’s last untamed wilderness. To help you decide how best to spend your time in Sweden, we’ve compiled a list of our favorite experiences and discoveries. In the following pages, you’ll find the kind of candid advice we’d give our close friends. 1 THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES • Shopping in the “Kingdom of Crys- Norrbotten), you can view the shim- tal”: Many visitors come to Sweden just mering phenomenon of the northern to shop for glass. In the “Kingdom of lights on many clear nights, usually Crystal,” which stretches some 112km from early evening until around mid- (70 miles) between the port city of Kal- night. The sun and solar winds create mar and the town of Växjö in Småland this amazing light show when electrons province, some of the world’s most pres- from the sun collide with atmospheric tigious glassmakers, including Kosta atoms and molecules. See chapter 13. Boda and Orrefors, showcase their wares. • Touring the Land of the Midnight At least 16 major glassworks welcome Sun: Above the Arctic Circle, where the visitors to this area and offer cut-rate summer sun never dips below the hori- discounts in the form of “seconds”— zon, you have endless hours to enjoy the goods containing flaws hardly noticeable beauty of the region and the activities except to the most carefully trained eye. that go with it—from hiking to white- Visitors can see glass being blown and water rafting. After shopping for distinc- crystal being etched by the land’s most tive wooden and silver handicrafts, you skilled craftspeople. See section 2, can dine on filet of reindeer served with “Växjö,” in chapter 9. cloudberries. You can even pan for gold • Viewing the Awe-Inspiring Northern with real-life pioneers in Lannavaara, or Lights: In the darkest of winter in the climb rocks and glaciers in Sarek’s north of Sweden (called Lapland or National Park. See chapter 13. COPYRIGHTED2 THE BEST ACTIVE VACATIONS MATERIAL • Fishing: Sweden offers some of the • Golfing: Many Swedes are obsessed world’s best fishing for fresh- and salt- with golf. Most courses, from the water fish—its pristine lakes and periphery of Stockholm to Björkliden streams are crystal clear, and many of (above the Arctic Circle), are open to them are extremely well stocked. See the public, and enthusiasts can play especially chapters 7 and 13. under the midnight sun. Halland, south 005_432143-ch01.indd5_432143-ch01.indd 4 33/16/09/16/09 110:38:210:38:21 PPMM Sweden 5 0 100 mi N 0 100 km FINLAND Narvik Abisko N Kiruna A E C Saltoluokta O Gällivare C Kvikkjokk I Jokkmokk ARCT SWEDEN OF BEST THE T IC CIRCLE Lu le R i Boden E4 N ve LAPLAND r Pi A te R iver L Luleå Arvidsjaur T Piteå A Skellefteå a i NORRLAND n Umeå h Trondheim t Indals 1 E14 R E4 o iv Östersund e r B Härnösand VACATIONS ACTIVE BEST THE f o FINLAND Sundsvall f NORWAY SWEDEN l u G Mora Rättvik Söderhamn DALARNA Gävle Falun Oslo E4 Filipstad E18 SVEALAND Uppsala VÄRMLAND Sigtuna Karlstad n E20 Stockholm r erne ä n E18 VänV Skara ESTONIA Lidköping Vadstena tern a NorthNorth SeaSea E22 e Vät GÖTALAND Visby GOTLAND S Gothenburg E4 Växjö c LATVIA DENMARK Kalmar i ÖLAND Helsingborg t l SKÅNE a Copenhagen Malmö B Ystad 005_432143-ch01.indd5_432143-ch01.indd 5 33/16/09/16/09 110:38:210:38:21 PPMM 6 of Gothenburg, is called the Swedish including Kebnekaise, the highest Riviera, and it’s the golf capital of the mountain in Sweden (2,090m/6,857 country. Båstad is the most fashionable ft.). This 500km (311-mile) trail cuts resort in Halland, and you can play a through the mountains of Abisko game of golf here at two prestigious National Park to Riksgränsen on the courses: the Båstad Golf Club at Boarp Norwegian frontier. See section 4, (& 0431/783-70) and the Bjåre Golf “Tärnaby & Hemavan,” in chapter 13. Club at Solomonhög (& 0431/36-10- • Skiing: In Lapland, you can enjoy both 53), both located right outside the center downhill and cross-country skiing year- of Båstad. See section 8, “The Bohuslän round. In Kiruna, serious skiers head Coast & Halland,” in chapter 7. for the Kebnekaise mountain station, • White-Water Rafting: Sweden has where skiing can be combined with some of Europe’s best white-water raft- dog-sledding and other winter sports. ing. Trips run the gamut from short and South of the city of Gällivare, you arrive comfortable rides through peaceful at Dundret, or “Thunder Mountain,” landscapes to heart-stopping races on for some of the finest skiing in the fast-running rivers. In Dalarna, the best north. The hotel to stay at here also is white-water rafting is on the Väster- called Dundret (& 0970/145-60), and dalälven River rapids, which are rated its staff possesses all the expertise needed THE BEST OF SWEDEN OF BEST THE moderately difficult. In northern Värm- to link you up with cross-country and 1 land, 5km (3 miles) south of Höljes, downhill skiing alike. Inaugurated in you can take easy white-water trips in 1955, its chairlift to the top of the paddle boats. See chapter 12. slopes was the first of its kind in Swe- • Hiking: The Kungsleden (Royal Trail) den. For Dundret, see section 7, “Gäl- provides the hike of a lifetime as it takes livare,” in chapter 13. you through the mountains of Lapland, 3 THE BEST MARINE VACATIONS • Exploring the “Garden of Skerries” • Riding Along the Göta Canal: This Around Stockholm: Few cities enjoy a canal, known as Sweden’s “blue rib- marinescape as dramatic as Stockholm’s. bon,” links Stockholm in the east with THE BEST MARINE VACATIONS MARINE BEST THE The city is surrounded by some 24,000 Gothenburg in the west, and is one of islands and islets (some no more than Scandinavia’s major tourist attractions. skerries or rocks jutting out of the As boats travel along the canal, some of water), and the water is dotted with the most beautiful panoramas in Swe- colorful yachts. You can easily explore den unfold. The canal dates from 1810 the archipelago in summer, using the and covers 565km (351 miles) of beau- car ferries and bridges that connect it. tiful scenery. Artificial canals, lakes, and The highlight of the journey is taking a rivers are linked by a series of 65 locks, boat trip from the center of Stockholm some of them rising 90m (295 ft.) to the town of Sandhamn, a ride that above sea level. Any travel agent can will introduce you to the scenic high- book you on this trip. See section 1, lights of a place many Stockholmers call “The Göta Canal,” in chapter 11. home in summer. See section 7, “Side • Angling on the Göta Älv: The south- Trips from Stockholm,” in chapter 6. western sector of Lake Vänern, which is part of the Göta Canal (see above), has 005_432143-ch01.indd5_432143-ch01.indd 6 33/16/09/16/09 110:38:210:38:21 PPMM been called an angler’s El Dorado, espe- folklore—is by boat. This way you can 7 cially in the valley of the River Göta. The see and experience this most traditional Göta Älv’s well-stocked trout waters of Swedish provinces from a seascape, as make for some of Scandinavia’s finest the scenery along the shoreline unfolds spinning and fly-fishing. More than 30 before you. Leksand itself is the door- different species of fish live in Lake Vän- way to the province’s most scenic lake, ern, especially perch, pike, and different Siljan. No less an authority than Hans types of carp. Some 35,000 young Christian Andersen pronounced this salmon and trout are released annually to trip idyllic. After a panoramic journey, keep the waters well stocked. you’ll arrive in Mora, a provincial town • Sailing the Gustaf Wasa: The best way in Upper Dalarna, where passengers to go between the lakeside resorts of disembark to see the Santa complex SWEDEN OF BEST THE Mora and Leksand in Dalarna— (Santa’s house and factory). See section the province most steeped in Swedish 5, “Leksand,” in chapter 12. 4 THE MOST SCENIC TOWNS & VILLAGES • Sigtuna: Sweden’s oldest town, founded • Visby: On the island of Gotland, this at the beginning of the 11th century, once was a great medieval European city stands on the shores of Lake Mälaren, and former Viking stronghold. For 8 northwest of Stockholm. High Street, days in August, this sleepy Hanseatic 1 with its low-timbered buildings, is town awakens for the annual Medieval VILLAGES & TOWNS SCENIC MOST THE believed to be the oldest street in Swe- Week, which features fire eaters, belly den. Traces of Sigtuna’s Viking and early dancers, and tournaments. Visby’s ruins Christian heritage can be seen through- of 13th- and 14th-century churches and out the town. See section 7, “Side Trips memories of a more prosperous period from Stockholm,” in chapter 6. are intriguing in any season. See section • Uppsala: Located northwest of Stock- 2, “Gotland & Visby,” in chapter 10. holm, Uppsala is Sweden’s major uni- • Rättvik: This is a great resort bordering versity city and boasts a celebrated Lake Siljan in the heart of Dalarna, a 15th-century cathedral. Nearby Gamla province known for its regional paint- Uppsala (see below) also is intriguing, ing, handicrafts, and folk dancing.