1 The Best of Sweden
Sweden presents visitors with an embarrassment of riches, everything from sophisticated cities to medieval towns to Europe’s last untamed wilderness. To help you decide how best to spend your time in Sweden, we’ve compiled a list of our favorite experiences and discoveries. In the following pages, you’ll find the kind of candid advice we’d give our close friends.
1 THE BEST TRAVEL EXPERIENCES
• Shopping in the “Kingdom of Crys- Norrbotten), you can view the shim- tal”: Many visitors come to Sweden just mering phenomenon of the northern to shop for glass. In the “Kingdom of lights on many clear nights, usually Crystal,” which stretches some 112km from early evening until around mid- (70 miles) between the port city of Kal- night. The sun and solar winds create mar and the town of Växjö in Småland this amazing light show when electrons province, some of the world’s most pres- from the sun collide with atmospheric tigious glassmakers, including Kosta atoms and molecules. See chapter 13. Boda and Orrefors, showcase their wares. • Touring the Land of the Midnight At least 16 major glassworks welcome Sun: Above the Arctic Circle, where the visitors to this area and offer cut-rate summer sun never dips below the hori- discounts in the form of “seconds”— zon, you have endless hours to enjoy the goods containing flaws hardly noticeable beauty of the region and the activities except to the most carefully trained eye. that go with it—from hiking to white- Visitors can see glass being blown and water rafting. After shopping for distinc- crystal being etched by the land’s most tive wooden and silver handicrafts, you skilled craftspeople. See section 2, can dine on filet of reindeer served with “Växjö,” in chapter 9. cloudberries. You can even pan for gold • Viewing the Awe-Inspiring Northern with real-life pioneers in Lannavaara, or Lights: In the darkest of winter in the climb rocks and glaciers in Sarek’s north of Sweden (called Lapland or National Park. See chapter 13. COPYRIGHTED2 THE BEST ACTIVE VACATIONS MATERIAL • Fishing: Sweden offers some of the • Golfing: Many Swedes are obsessed world’s best fishing for fresh- and salt- with golf. Most courses, from the water fish—its pristine lakes and periphery of Stockholm to Björkliden streams are crystal clear, and many of (above the Arctic Circle), are open to them are extremely well stocked. See the public, and enthusiasts can play especially chapters 7 and 13. under the midnight sun. Halland, south
005_432143-ch01.indd5_432143-ch01.indd 4 33/16/09/16/09 110:38:210:38:21 PMPM Sweden 5
0 100 mi N 0 100 km FINLAND Narvik Abisko N Kiruna A E C Saltoluokta O Gällivare C Kvikkjokk I Jokkmokk ARCT THE BEST OF SWEDEN T IC CIRCLE Lu le R i Boden E4 N ve LAPLAND r Pi A te R iver L Luleå Arvidsjaur T Piteå A
Skellefteå a i NORRLAND n Umeå h Trondheim t Indals 1 E14 R E4 o iv Östersund e r B Härnösand THE BEST ACTIVE VACATIONS f
o FINLAND Sundsvall f NORWAY SWEDEN l
u
G Mora Rättvik Söderhamn
DALARNA Gävle Falun Oslo E4 Filipstad E18 SVEALAND Uppsala VÄRMLAND Sigtuna Karlstad n E20 Stockholm r erne ä n E18 VänV Skara ESTONIA Lidköping Vadstena tern
a NorthNorth SSeaea E22
e Vät GÖTALAND Visby GOTLAND S Gothenburg E4
Växjö c LATVIA DENMARK Kalmar i ÖLAND Helsingborg t l SKÅNE a Copenhagen Malmö B Ystad
005_432143-ch01.indd5_432143-ch01.indd 5 33/16/09/16/09 110:38:210:38:21 PMPM 6 of Gothenburg, is called the Swedish including Kebnekaise, the highest Riviera, and it’s the golf capital of the mountain in Sweden (2,090m/6,857 country. Båstad is the most fashionable ft.). This 500km (311-mile) trail cuts resort in Halland, and you can play a through the mountains of Abisko game of golf here at two prestigious National Park to Riksgränsen on the courses: the Båstad Golf Club at Boarp Norwegian frontier. See section 4, (& 0431/783-70) and the Bjåre Golf “Tärnaby & Hemavan,” in chapter 13. Club at Solomonhög (& 0431/36-10- • Skiing: In Lapland, you can enjoy both 53), both located right outside the center downhill and cross-country skiing year- of Båstad. See section 8, “The Bohuslän round. In Kiruna, serious skiers head Coast & Halland,” in chapter 7. for the Kebnekaise mountain station, • White-Water Rafting: Sweden has where skiing can be combined with some of Europe’s best white-water raft- dog-sledding and other winter sports. ing. Trips run the gamut from short and South of the city of Gällivare, you arrive comfortable rides through peaceful at Dundret, or “Thunder Mountain,” landscapes to heart-stopping races on for some of the finest skiing in the fast-running rivers. In Dalarna, the best north. The hotel to stay at here also is white-water rafting is on the Väster- called Dundret (& 0970/145-60), and dalälven River rapids, which are rated its staff possesses all the expertise needed THE BEST OF SWEDEN OF BEST THE moderately difficult. In northern Värm- to link you up with cross-country and 1 land, 5km (3 miles) south of Höljes, downhill skiing alike. Inaugurated in you can take easy white-water trips in 1955, its chairlift to the top of the paddle boats. See chapter 12. slopes was the first of its kind in Swe- • Hiking: The Kungsleden (Royal Trail) den. For Dundret, see section 7, “Gäl- provides the hike of a lifetime as it takes livare,” in chapter 13. you through the mountains of Lapland,
3 THE BEST MARINE VACATIONS
• Exploring the “Garden of Skerries” • Riding Along the Göta Canal: This Around Stockholm: Few cities enjoy a canal, known as Sweden’s “blue rib- marinescape as dramatic as Stockholm’s. bon,” links Stockholm in the east with
THE BEST MARINE VACATIONS MARINE BEST THE The city is surrounded by some 24,000 Gothenburg in the west, and is one of islands and islets (some no more than Scandinavia’s major tourist attractions. skerries or rocks jutting out of the As boats travel along the canal, some of water), and the water is dotted with the most beautiful panoramas in Swe- colorful yachts. You can easily explore den unfold. The canal dates from 1810 the archipelago in summer, using the and covers 565km (351 miles) of beau- car ferries and bridges that connect it. tiful scenery. Artificial canals, lakes, and The highlight of the journey is taking a rivers are linked by a series of 65 locks, boat trip from the center of Stockholm some of them rising 90m (295 ft.) to the town of Sandhamn, a ride that above sea level. Any travel agent can will introduce you to the scenic high- book you on this trip. See section 1, lights of a place many Stockholmers call “The Göta Canal,” in chapter 11. home in summer. See section 7, “Side • Angling on the Göta Älv: The south- Trips from Stockholm,” in chapter 6. western sector of Lake Vänern, which is part of the Göta Canal (see above), has
005_432143-ch01.indd5_432143-ch01.indd 6 33/16/09/16/09 110:38:210:38:21 PMPM been called an angler’s El Dorado, espe- folklore—is by boat. This way you can 7 cially in the valley of the River Göta. The see and experience this most traditional Göta Älv’s well-stocked trout waters of Swedish provinces from a seascape, as make for some of Scandinavia’s finest the scenery along the shoreline unfolds spinning and fly-fishing. More than 30 before you. Leksand itself is the door- different species of fish live in Lake Vän- way to the province’s most scenic lake, ern, especially perch, pike, and different Siljan. No less an authority than Hans types of carp. Some 35,000 young Christian Andersen pronounced this salmon and trout are released annually to trip idyllic. After a panoramic journey, keep the waters well stocked. you’ll arrive in Mora, a provincial town • Sailing the Gustaf Wasa: The best way in Upper Dalarna, where passengers to go between the lakeside resorts of disembark to see the Santa complex THE BEST OF SWEDEN Mora and Leksand in Dalarna— (Santa’s house and factory). See section the province most steeped in Swedish 5, “Leksand,” in chapter 12.
4 THE MOST SCENIC TOWNS & VILLAGES
• Sigtuna: Sweden’s oldest town, founded • Visby: On the island of Gotland, this at the beginning of the 11th century, once was a great medieval European city stands on the shores of Lake Mälaren, and former Viking stronghold. For 8 northwest of Stockholm. High Street, days in August, this sleepy Hanseatic 1
with its low-timbered buildings, is town awakens for the annual Medieval THE MOST SCENIC TOWNS & VILLAGES believed to be the oldest street in Swe- Week, which features fire eaters, belly den. Traces of Sigtuna’s Viking and early dancers, and tournaments. Visby’s ruins Christian heritage can be seen through- of 13th- and 14th-century churches and out the town. See section 7, “Side Trips memories of a more prosperous period from Stockholm,” in chapter 6. are intriguing in any season. See section • Uppsala: Located northwest of Stock- 2, “Gotland & Visby,” in chapter 10. holm, Uppsala is Sweden’s major uni- • Rättvik: This is a great resort bordering versity city and boasts a celebrated Lake Siljan in the heart of Dalarna, a 15th-century cathedral. Nearby Gamla province known for its regional paint- Uppsala (see below) also is intriguing, ing, handicrafts, and folk dancing. Tim- built on the site of Viking burial grounds bered houses reflect Dalarna’s old-style where animals and humans were both architecture, and on summer nights, sacrificed. See section 7, “Side Trips from fiddle music evokes the long-ago past. Stockholm,” in chapter 6. See section 7, “Rättvik,” in chapter 12. • Lund: This town, situated 18km (11 • Jokkmokk: Located just north of the miles) northeast of Malmö, rivals Upp- Arctic Circle, this is the best center for sala as a university town. It, too, is absorbing Lapp (or Sami) culture. The ancient, having been founded by Canute Lapps hold their famous “Great Winter the Great in 1020. The town is filled Market” here in early February, a tradi- with centuries-old buildings, winding tion that is centuries old. You can visit a passages, and cobblestone streets; a major museum devoted to Sami culture in the attraction is its ancient cathedral, one of center of town and then go salmon fish- the finest expressions of Romanesque ing in the town’s central lake. See sec- architecture in northern Europe. See sec- tion 5, “Jokkmokk,” in chapter 13. tion 3, “Lund,” in chapter 8.
005_432143-ch01.indd5_432143-ch01.indd 7 33/16/09/16/09 110:38:210:38:21 PMPM 8 5 THE BEST PLACES TO GO BACK IN TIME
• Gamla Uppsala (Uppsala): Some 1,500 the coastal town of Simrishamn. It years ago, the Kingdom of the Svea immediately became the most impor- (Swedes) was ruled from a spot outside tant Bronze Age discovery in the coun- the modern university city of Uppsala, try. One of the former members of the north of Stockholm. Gamla Uppsala, discovery team compared it to being 5km (3 miles) north of the city center, is “invited into the living room of a now one of the most revered historic spots Bronze Age family.” Not only the usual in Sweden. Here Viking life dominated, bronze fragments were uncovered but and animals and humans were sacrificed also some grave carvings and, most to pagan gods. It is suspected, although notably, tomb furniture. A total of eight not authenticated, that three Swedish runic slabs depict scenes from everyday kings dating from the 6th century were life, including horse-drawn sleigh-rid- entombed here. See section 7, “Side Trips ing, plus a bit of prehistoric humor in from Stockholm,” in chapter 6. what appears to be a troupe of dancing • Skansen (Djurgården, Stockholm): seals. See p. 251. Called “Old Sweden in a Nutshell,” this • Eketorp Ring-Fort (Öland): This forti- THE BEST OF SWEDEN OF BEST THE is the best open-air museum in all of fied village, built inside of a ring-shaped Sweden in terms of numbers of dwell- enclosure for defensive purposes, is the 1 ings and authenticity. Some 150 struc- most important of more than a dozen tures were moved from places ranging prehistoric forts known to have existed from the château country in southwest on Öland in prerecorded times. It Sweden to as far north as Lapland. appears that the heavily protected vil- From manor houses to windmills, lage was inhabited by various settlers they’re all here, giving visitors an idea of from a.d. 300 to 1300. Swedish archae- how Sweden used to look. This is an ologists have filled the settlement with especially valuable stop for visitors who the Iron Age–style houses that once
THE BEST MUSEUMS BEST THE see only Stockholm and don’t have time existed here, and they have recon- to visit the rest of the country. Folk structed a massive wall along its edges. dancing and concerts enliven the atmo- Although it is a reconstruction, it is sphere, and young Swedes demonstrate believed to be an authentic replica of the creation of handicrafts from the what the ring fort and village once 17th and 18th centuries. See p. 120. looked like, giving amazing insight into • Kivik Tomb (Bredaror): The Kivik life in the Sweden of ages ago, when Tomb was discovered in 1748 in the prehistoric people fought to survive in château country of Sweden, north of an inhospitable terrain. See p. 294.
6 THE BEST MUSEUMS
• Millesgården (Lidingö, outside Stock- themes in his work, and many of his holm): Sweden’s foremost sculptor, Carl best-known pieces are displayed here. Milles (1875–1955), lived here and cre- See p. 124. ated a sculpture garden by the sea that • Nationalmuseum (National Museum now has been turned into a museum. of Art; Stockholm): One of the oldest Milles relied heavily on mythological museums in the world (it celebrates its
005_432143-ch01.indd5_432143-ch01.indd 8 33/16/09/16/09 110:38:210:38:21 PMPM 217th birthday in 2009), the National • Göteborgs Konstmuseum (Gothen- 9 Museum houses Sweden’s treasure-trove burg): This is the city’s leading art of rare paintings and sculpture. From museum, a repository of modern paint- Rembrandt to Rubens, and from Bellini ings that’s strong on French Impression- to van Gogh, a panoply of European art ists, including van Gogh and Bonnard. unfolds before your eyes. In addition to Modern artists, such as Picasso and paintings, you’ll find antique porcelain, Edvard Munch, also are represented, as furniture, and clocks. See p. 119. are sculptures by Milles. See p. 186. • Vasamuseet (Royal Warship Vasa; • Åjtte (Jokkmokk): In true Lapp coun- Stockholm): In the Djurgården, this try, this is the best repository of artifacts 17th-century man-of-war, which is now of the Sami culture. Integrating nature a museum, is a popular tourist attraction. with culture, the museum is the largest THE BEST OF SWEDEN The Vasa is the world’s oldest known of its kind in the world. It depicts how complete ship. It capsized and sank on its the Lapps lived and struggled for sur- maiden voyage in 1628 before horrified vival in a harsh terrain, and features the onlookers. The ship was salvaged in 1961 houses they lived in as well as the ani- and has been carefully restored; 97% of mals and weapons needed for their its 700 original sculptured decorative livelihood. See p. 372. motifs were retrieved. See p. 121.
7 THE BEST CASTLES & PALACES 1 THE BEST CASTLES & PALACES • Drottningholm Palace and Theater • Castle of Bosjökloster (Lund): The ori- 3 (Drottningholm): Lying 11km (6 /4 gins of this former Benedictine convent miles) from Stockholm on an island in date from 1080. Closed in the 1500s, at Lake Mälaren, Drottningholm, or the time of the Reformation, it fell into “Queen’s Island,” has been dubbed the disrepair but has since been restored to Versailles of Sweden. It is a magnificent some of its former glory. Situated on the royal residence, a gem of baroque archi- shores of Lake Ringsjö, today the castle is tecture with a palace, gardens, a Chi- surrounded by a recreation area with nese pavilion, and one of the most beautiful gardens. The great courtyard remarkable court theaters in Europe. here is one of high drama, with thousands Since 1981, Sweden’s royal family has of flowers and exotic shrubs. You can occupied the south wing. See p. 123. bring along a picnic lunch to enjoy on the • Kungliga Slottet (Stockholm): One of grounds. See p. 245. the few official residences of the royal • Kalmar Slott (Kalmar): Once called family that is open to the public, this “the key to Sweden,” this historic castle palace in Gamla Stan (Stockholm’s Old was the setting for the Kalmar Union Town) dates back 700 years. Encom- that temporarily united the thrones of passing 608 rooms, it is used today by Denmark, Norway, and Sweden in the Swedish king and his family mainly 1397. The original structure dates from for ceremonial occasions. The 18th- the 12th century, but in the 16th cen- century Royal Apartments, with their tury, King Gustav Vasa rebuilt it, and painted ceilings, glittering chandeliers, his sons eventually transformed it into a and heirloom tapestries, are the high- Renaissance palace. The castle is the light of any visit. See p. 114. major site in this port city in southern Sweden, which also makes a good base
005_432143-ch01.indd5_432143-ch01.indd 9 33/16/09/16/09 110:38:210:38:21 PMPM 10 for exploring the “Kingdom of Crystal,” its distinctive white walls, towers, and the bargain-filled area of glassworks turrets seem to rise out of the water. manufacturers (see above). See p. 269. The palace furnishings eventually were • Läckö Slott (Lidköping): Lying in the carted off and the rooms left bare, but vicinity of the pleasant little town of over the years many of the original fur- Lidköping, this castle on the waters of nishings have been reclaimed and Lake Vänern is straight from a fairy tale. returned. A visit here and a walk Between 1298 and 1681, 250 rooms through the once-royal grounds is a were built, many quite large; only the highlight of any trip to the waters of royal palace in Stockholm is larger than Lake Vänern. See p. 315. Läckö. As you approach from a distance,
8 THE BEST CATHEDRALS & ABBEYS
• Riddarholm Church (Stockholm): • Domkyrkan (Cathedral of Lund; Evoking pre-Reformation Sweden, this Lund): The apex of Romanesque archi- is one of the best-preserved Franciscan tecture in Sweden, this imposing twin- churches left in northern Europe. After towered gray sandstone cathedral is one THE BEST OF SWEDEN OF BEST THE being consecrated at the turn of the of the most ancient in Sweden. Building 14th century, it served for centuries as on it started sometime in the 1080s by 1 the mausoleum for Swedish royalty. King Canute II, though it wasn’t conse- The church’s cast-iron steeple, which crated until 1145. Some of the sculptural dates from 1841, remains one of the details of its architecture evoke Lom- most distinctive landmarks of the bardy or other parts of Italy. This is Stockholm skyline. The interior is espe- especially evident in its apse, which dates cially impressive; coats of arms of from the 1130s. See p. 240. knights of the Order of Seraphim, • Vadstena Abbey (Vadstena): Sweden’s founded in 1336, cover the walls. The greatest abbey, on the shores of Lake floor is paved with gravestones. After Vättern, is dedicated to its patron saint, you visit the church, you can walk St. Birgitta. In the Middle Ages, the through Stockholm’s Old Town, Gamla abbey was at the center of a pilgrimage, Stan. See p. 125. which earned it the appellation of • Uppsala Domkyrka (Uppsala): This “Rome of the North.” One of the most
THE BEST CATHEDRALS & ABBEYS & CATHEDRALS BEST THE twin-spired Gothic structure, nearly important stopovers for those taking 120m (394 ft.) tall, was constructed in the Göta Canal trip, Vadstena is domi- the 13th century. Today the silhouette nated by its Klosterkyrkan, or Abbey of this largest cathedral in Scandinavia Church, built between the mid–14th dominates the landscape, affording and 15th centuries to the specifications Uppsala the status of ecclesiastical capi- of its founder, St. Birgitta herself. This tal of Sweden. Its layout is simple com- Gothic church is rich in art and relics pared with other major European from the Middle Ages. See p. 285. cathedrals, yet its high Gothic aura is • Kiruna Kyrka (Kiruna): This church in nevertheless impressive. In one of the the far north of Sweden, in the midst of chapels on the south aisle, you can visit Lapland, would hardly make it in the the tomb of the philosopher Emanuel grand cathedral circuit of northern Swedenborg (1688–1772). See p. 156. Europe. It is, however, one of the most
005_432143-ch01.indd5_432143-ch01.indd 1010 33/16/09/16/09 110:38:210:38:21 PMPM unusual churches in the world and front is supported by props and the 11 raises a lot of eyebrows at first sight. It tombstone of the founder of Kiruna. was constructed in 1912 like a stylized The altarpiece scene representing Para- Sami tent, with an origami design of dise as a Tuscan, not Lappish, landscape rafters and wood beams. In Lapland, it is the only incongruous note. See sec- is hailed as “the Shrine of the Nomadic tion 8, “Kiruna,” in chapter 13. people.” A free-standing bell tower in
9 THE BEST HOTELS
• Grand Hotel (Stockholm; & 08/679- On a small rooftop terrace, tables are THE BEST OF SWEDEN 35-00; www.grandhotel.se): Opposite arranged around a fountain. See p. 88. the Royal Palace, this is the most presti- • Radisson SAS Scandinavia Hotel gious hotel in Sweden; many well-known (Gothenburg; & 800/333-3333 in the people have stayed here, including Nobel U.S., or 031/758-50-00; www.radissons Prize winners. Set on the waterfront, it as.com): Since its opening in 1950, dates from 1874 but is continuously Gothenburg’s premier hotel has hosted renovated to keep it in state-of-the-art everybody who’s anybody, including the condition. The rooms have been luxuri- Beatles. Located on Gothenburg’s attractive main boulevard, near the cul- ously redecorated, and the bathrooms 1 are made of Italian marble with under- tural center, it’s a cosmopolitan hotel
floor heating. In 2006, the Grand was with a fresh and contemporary ambi- THE BEST HOTELS vastly improved and enlarged with 72 ence. The best double rooms are quite additional bedrooms and a luxurious spacious and decorated in a semimod- new penthouse. See p. 77. ern, sleek style; about a quarter of the • Nordic Hotel (Stockholm; & 800/337- guest rooms are equipped with balco- 4685 or 08/505-630-00; www.nordic nies. See p. 174. hotel.se): Unique for the Swedish capi- • Elite Plaza (Gothenburg; & 031/720- tal, this hotel is as modern and dramatic 40-00; www.elite.se): This is not only as the 21st century itself. Turning to the the newest but also one of the very best cold Arctic waters of the north and the hotels to open in Gothenburg in recent northern lights for its architectural years. A 19th-century insurance com- inspiration, the hotel creates an “only in pany was gutted and recycled into a Sweden” aura that definitely makes you superior first-class hotel with many of feel like you’re in the far north of its original architectural features intact. Europe. See p. 80. The building got a new lease on life, • Victory Hotel (Stockholm; & 08/506- and visitors to Gothenburg today have 400-00; www.victory-hotel.se): In the a place to stay that’s as good as some of Old Town, this small but stylish hotel the most superior lodgings in Stock- ranks among the top in Sweden. Origi- holm. See p. 172. nally built in 1642, the hotel is famous • Elite Hotel Marina Plaza (Helsing- for treasure once buried here (part of borg; & 042/19-21-00; www.marina which can be seen at the Stockholm plaza.elite.se): This innovative hotel City Museum). The well-furnished faces out from the port city of Helsing- bedrooms, with modern beds, typically borg over the Öresund and toward the have exposed beams and pine floors. eastern coast of Denmark, across from
005_432143-ch01.indd5_432143-ch01.indd 1111 33/16/09/16/09 110:38:210:38:21 PMPM 12 “Hamlet’s Castle.” A nautical decor pre- life in a restored 18th-century manor vails, and large glass windows are typical house with yellow clapboards and a red of the sleek, contemporary architecture roof, nestled amid its own parklike of Sweden. With its rock gardens, abun- grounds. Even better, this taste of how dant flowers, and fountains, it is a lovely life was lived in old Sweden comes at a place to spend the night in grand com- very reasonable price. See p. 323. fort and style. See p. 218. • Elite Stadshotellet Karlstad (Karlstad; • Stadshotell (Kalmar; & 0480/49-69- & 054/29-30-00; www.elite.se): In the 00; www.profilhotels.se): With very heart of the folkloric province of Värm- reasonably priced rooms (at times less land, this hotel, with its neo-baroque than 900SEK/$180/£90 a night for a facade, is one of the most impressive of double), this is an exceptional choice the 19th-century hotels remaining in for lodgings in this historic port city in Sweden. If you like old-fashioned style southeastern Sweden. A landmark but modern comfort, this is for you. From hotel—constructed in 1906 but com- its British-inspired pub to the gourmet pletely modernized in 1999—it still restaurant, it’s a winner. See p. 334. retains its look of romanticized archi- • The Ice Hotel (Jukkasjärvi; & 0980/ tecture, with gables and a bell tower. 668-00; www.icehotel.com): Surely Many Art Nouveau embellishments there is no hotel in all of Europe as curi- THE BEST OF SWEDEN OF BEST THE remain, including cut-glass chandeliers ous as this one deep in the heart of 1 and an Edwardian-style library. Its bed- Swedish Lapland. Every winter, the rooms are the largest and most comfort- hotel is carved out of the ice at a point able in town. See p. 270. 200km (124 miles) north of the Arctic • Halltorps Gästgiveri (Borgholm; Circle. Come spring, the igloo-shaped & 0485/850-00; www.halltorpsgast hotel literally melts away. In its glacial giveri.se): It has been a restaurant lon- setting, guests can check in for an icy ger than it has been a hotel, but this inn night—hopefully with a good bed part- on the Baltic Island of Öland still dates ner. If you’ve ever dreamed of living like from 1850. Bedrooms are light and airy an Eskimo, here is your chance. See and frequently renovated, ensuring a p. 382. good night’s sleep in comfort and style. • Scandic Hotel Kramer (Malmö; & 040/ THE BEST RESTAURANTS BEST THE Its restaurant, Bakfickan, or “hip 693-54-00; www.scandic-hotels.com/ pocket” in English, is one of Öland’s kramer): A wholesale redesign has given best. See p. 301. this old favorite a new lease on life • Ronnums Herrgård (Vargön; & 0521/ for its postmillennium reincarnation. 26-00-00): One of the most idyllic stop- Increasingly, the Kramer is becoming overs along the Göta Canal is in Vargön, the place to stay in Malmö for many which a poet once labeled “Little Paris.” discerning visitors, although the hotel In this charming setting, you can enjoy competition is rough here. See p. 229.
10 THE BEST RESTAURANTS
• Operakällaren (Stockholm; & 08/676- years, it is deservedly the most famous 58-00): Opposite the Royal Palace, this restaurant in Sweden—and the best. Its deluxe restaurant has long been the French-inspired cuisine with Swedish standard by which the competition is overtones is world-class. See p. 93. judged. Still going strong after all these
005_432143-ch01.indd5_432143-ch01.indd 1212 33/16/09/16/09 110:38:210:38:21 PMPM • Paul & Norbert (Stockholm; & 08/663- city” is a bastion of good eating—its 13 81-83): With only eight tables on the dishes are fresh, handled with skill, and fashionable Strandvägen, this exclusive served with flair. You’ll be as impressed and innovative restaurant is set in a as we were by the exceedingly good patrician residence dating from 1873. cuisine, which attracts a crowd of prime It’s the creation of German owner Nor- ministers, artists, and theater people bert Lang. In winter, the Swedish game alike. See p. 231. served here is without equal in the • Gastro (Helsingborg; & 042/24-34- entire country—just try the pigeon 70): The kitchens of Sweden and France with Calvados sauce. And you can come together at this restaurant that has always count on something tempting emerged as the best in town. Lots of and unusual; sautéed sweetbreads in fresh fish, from the straits of Helsing- THE BEST OF SWEDEN nettle sauce, anyone? See p. 93. borg and the Baltic, appear on the • Gripsholms Värdshus Restaurant menu. Many Danes cross the strait for (Mariefred; & 0159/347-50): If you’re dinner here. See p. 220. seeking traditional Swedish food with • Kalmar Hamn Krog (Kalmar; & 0480/ French overtones, this is the best dining 41-10-20): Since it opened in 1988, choice on the periphery of the capital. this international restaurant has quickly Local game dishes, including wild moved to the front of the line. Hailed as grouse, are featured in autumn, and the best in this historic port city, it marinated salmon with a mild mustard prepares reasonably priced food with 1 sauce is a year-round favorite. Tastings flair, using only market-fresh ingredi- also can be arranged in the wine cellar. ents, deftly handled by the staff. The THE BEST RESTAURANTS See p. 161. chefs borrow freely from the world’s • Sjömagasinet (Gothenburg; & 031/775- larders, using spices or ingredients from 59-20): By far the most intriguing res- any country where their culinary imagi- taurant in town, this is one of the finest nations wander. See p. 272. places to go for seafood on the west • Halltorps Gästgiveri (Borgholm; coast of Sweden. In the western suburb & 0485/850-00): On the historic Baltic of Klippan, the converted 1775 ware- island of Öland, this dining room serving house serves an array of fresh fish whose Swedish food takes you back to the good flavor never diminishes, regardless of old days. You can feast on the dishes the sauce or preparation. The fish and beloved by your great-grandparents— shellfish pot-au-feu, with a chive-fla- provided they came from Sweden. vored crème fraîche, is worth the trek. Herbs and vegetables come from sup- See p. 180. pliers who grow them right on the • Årstiderna I Kockska Huset (Malmö; island, and the local fishers bring in & 040/23-09-10): In a North Ger- their catch of the day. The place is man–style building from 1523, the charming and a bit stylish, and it occu- leading restaurant of Sweden’s “third pies one of the oldest manor houses on the island. See p. 301.
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