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Feature 04-04 InIn forfor thethe LongLong HaulHaul Five long-distance routes offer challenges for the resilient hiker for everyone. It requires careful OBLES N preparation, judicious packing, and AVE D high levels of physical and mental endurance. And while solo long distance hiking has its attractions, for safety’s sake, you’ll also need to find a hiking partner or partners who are willing to put in the grueling miles. And don’t forget support people who can ferry you around obstacles, pick you up from your destination, or re- supply. Sounds like a lot of work? It is. But to many, long-distance “thru-hiking” pays off in numerous ways. It allows you to really escape the urban/ suburban world. And the long dis- tances and longer hiking itineraries allow you to really become immersed in the wilderness ecosystem. You have time to notice the habits of marmots; you have time to observe the patterns of mountain weather systems. As someone who’s taken one long- distance coastal trip, I can attest that it’s hard work (and I never completed my trip, which taught me the limits of my wilderness endurance). So here, in brief are a few long- distance trips to dream about for the summer of 2004. Some of them are completed, official trails. Others are longer-term visions that haven’t been completely realized. And then there’s the injured giant: the Washington stretch of the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). Spray Falls, just off the Wonderland Trail, Mount Rainier National Park. The PCT was pummeled by the The 93-mile Wonderland is one of the state’s classic long-distance hikes. winter floods of 2003, and a 39-mile stretch near Glacier Peak has been By Andrew Engelson Washington state is fortunate to be closed and a very temporary and home to a number of long-distance difficult trail has been designated as a Spring is the time for making big trails that offer challenges for the detour by the U.S. Forest Service. hiking plans. serious hiker. And several more long According to Mike Dawson, Director And while you’re at it, why not think trails are works in progress. of Trail Operations for the Pacific really big? Certainly, long-distance hiking isn’t Crest Trail Association it will be at least three to five years before advised that the 39-mile reroute of the Northwest Trail Association’s Director Washington’s stretch of the PCT is stretch between Indian Pass and of Trail Development, about 40 miles back to it former self. Miner’s Creek is difficult and not of what was formerly roadside walking So as always, conditions will change recommended for stock users. Some will be replaced by trails on the as these trails begin to melt out this fords may be nearly impassable most Washington stretch of the PNT. summer. Call ahead to ranger stations of the summer. The Forest Service Major changes in the Montana and for current conditions. says it’s not a bad idea to avoid the Idaho stretches are also planned, and Long distance hikes require a detour altogether. PNTA is working hard to educate the careful approach to packing and With that said, the Washington PCT U.S. Forest Service about the PNT’s preparation (you don’t want to be (originally known as the Cascade Crest route. And maybe someday, National caught short on food, but you also Trail) offers a spectacular array of Scenic Trail recognition. “If it hap- don’t want to be weighted down with ecosystems—some of the highlights pens in my lifetime,” says Knechtel, a 50-pound pack). One of the patron include the Goat Rocks Crest, the “I’d be pleased.” saints of long distance hiking is Ray Granite cliffs of Kendall Katwalk, the The Washington route covers some Jardine; but be warned, some consider high country near Lyman Lake, and amazing territory, including the Kettle him a genius, some a crank. He’s the remote stretches of the North Range, the Pasayten Wilderness, definitely opinionated, and even if you Cascades and Pasayten Wilderness. North Cascades National Park, don’t agree with all the suggestions in Whidbey Island, Gray Wolf Pass in his book Beyond Backpacking (Adven- Distance: 500 miles the Olympics, and the wilderness ture Lore Press, 1999, $19.95) you Status: Complete, National Scenic coast at Cape Alava. can’t ignore the advice of someone Trail. But, the PCT in Washington Most of the route is in good shape who pioneered the concept of thru- severely damaged and in need of your after last winter’s storms, but there hiking. help. may be road access issues in the Following is a brief round-up of the Bogachiel River area of Olympic Primary organization: Pacific Crest most prominent long-distance hikes in National Park and National Forest. In Trail Association (PCTA), the state. Only the coast trail and addition and some stretches of trail www.pcta.org, (916) 349-2109. portions of the Iron Horse Trail are may have suffered damage during the hikeable now—most of these trips are Reference: Pacific Crest Trail, Oregon- forest fires in the Pasayten last year. for the height of summer. But start Washington by Jeffrey P. Schaffer Call ahead for trail conditions. planning now. For more ideas, (Wilderness Press, 2003, $24.95) and consult Mike Woodmansee’s excellent Best of the Pacific Crest Trail, Wash- Distance: 730 miles ington by Dan Nelson (Mountaineers guide Backpacker: Trekking Status: Still in progress, but most of Books, 2000, $16.95). Washington (The Mountaineers, route is complete and on trails (some 2003, $18.95), which is reviewed on stretches require road walking). page 28 of this issue. Pacific Northwest Primary organization: Pacific Northwest Trail Association (PNTA), Pacific Crest Trail Trail www.pnt.org, (877) 854-9415. Reference: The Pacific Northwest (Cascade Crest Trail) Not to be confused with the PCT, Trail Guide by Ron Strickland (out of the Pacific Northwest Trail is an east- print, Sasquatch Books, 2001, $19.95). 2003 was a hard year for the PCT, west route that covers some 1200 which covers some 500 miles of trail miles from Glacier National Park in along the crest of Washington’s Montana to Cape Alava on the Cascades. Damage estimated at $1.4 Washington Coast. Washington is Washington million has obliterated seven trail home to 730 miles of the PNT, and bridges, large stretches of trail, and this route takes hikers, equestrians, Coast Trail areas such as Kennedy Hot Springs. and bikers through a stunning array of WTA, The Mountaineers, the PCTA ecosystems: steppe-shrub, ponderosa (Proposed) and other organizations are pushing pine forests, alpine meadows, temper- Congress to provide the needed funds ate rainforests, and coastal wilderness. According to Al LePage, a propo- to return this important long-distance The PNT is a work in progress, but nent of a long distance trail on the trail back to it original condition. much of the vision that began in the coast of Washington, Oregon, and If you’re planning on hiking all 500 1970s is now complete. California, the Washington Coastal miles of the trail this season, be According to Jon Knechtel, Pacific Trail would have two components. Most of the existing hiking trails and hiking adventures. The route takes beaches are in place in Olympic you through some of the world’s most Iron Horse Trail National Park and beaches from Long amazing wildflower meadows, deep and State Park Beach south to Cape Disappointment. old-growth forests, and subalpine The second part, he says, also exists in ecosystems. And the Mountain is (John Wayne the estuaries of the Columbia River never far from sight. The hike is and Willapa Bay. But this route is a challenging (you’ll have climbed over Pioneer Trail) water trail established by the Wash- 25,000 feet on the whole circuit!) and ington Water Trails Association. the high snowfields at Panhandle Gap Following the route of the old In 1998, Washington State Parks often require having an ice axe and Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul, and officially recognized the idea of a knowing how to use it. Pacific Railroad—which was in service coast-wide trail, but no funding and a According to Lee Taylor, public from 1908 to 1980—the 110-mile Iron low priority meant it’s not much more information officer for Mount Rainier Horse Trail takes hikers and bikers than a trail in name only. But there National Park, the trail experienced from the foothills of the Cascades to are plenty of areas to hike in the 200 no major damage from last winter’s the arid sagebrush country of the miles of coastline. The predominant storms, but as always, call ahead for Columbia Plateau. Maintained by being the 70-some miles of wilderness conditions. Those wanting to Washington State Parks, the route is coast in Olympic National Park. The backcountry camp the whole circuit primarily used by biking-touring and new Shi-Shi Trail on the Makah should reserve campsites as soon as equestrian campers since the dis- Indian Reservation also makes access possible; about 60 percent of sites are tances between camps are substantial somewhat easier. reservable, the rest are on a first- and in the eastern stretches water is Gaps in the rest of the coast include come-first serve basis. The reservation scarce. The trail is packed gravel, so a the impassable Raft River on the system opens April 1 and spots go mountain bike or off-street bike is Quinault Indian Reservation and areas quickly. It’s highly recommended to essential.
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