Ten Northwest Long-Distance Trail Adventures

Home , Backpacking with animals, Big Lava Bed, Cathedral Peak (Wyoming), Chiwawa River, Columbia Plateau Trail, Glacier Peak

A Publication of Washington Trails Association | wta.org Epic Trails

PCT • PNT Kettle Crest Spider Loop Boundary Trail and More! SPECIAL FEATURE Hiking Lessons from You may have read the book. Perhaps you saw the movie. If neither, you likely know someone or when soaked by rain. Know how to use both to help you Epic Trails who read the book or saw the movie. Wild is the identify your location using the area’s topography. This can be Plan Your First Long-Distance Hike personal story of a young woman who suffers invaluable if you wake up and find the trail covered in snow. Advice from experienced long-distance hikers to help you a dramatic loss in her life and decides that the plan a successful trek on the Pacific Crest Trail, Wonderland key to her recovery is to hike the Pacific Crest Stay Hydrated Trail or other multi-week route. » p.4 Trail—a bold decision by someone who has never Dehydration can happen fast in high mountain elevations backpacked before. She buys everything she thinks if you don’t drink regularly and can result in problems ranging Are Your Ready for the Bigtime? she needs, leaves everything she knows behind from annoying to life-threatening. Before setting out, study Take this hiking quiz and see if you’re ready to take on one your map (and any other resources) to learn where your and travels across the country to begin hiking. And of Washington’s big trails. » p.8 water sources will be. If possible, try to camp near water. If then the problems begin. Had the author taken the hiking long stretches between water sources, carry extra in a Lessons from the Trail time to prepare herself for her journey, some of the collapsible bladder and keep an “emergency bottle” in reserve. Fellow hikers share their hard lessons learned on trail so challenges she faced could have been avoided. you don’t make the same mistakes. » p.10 Be prepared for weather Know Your Gear Always be prepared for changes in the weather. Carry a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen for the warm days and rain gear and 4 Before hitting the trail, make sure you’re familiar with your a pack cover for when the weather goes south. This includes Hike It! gear. This can save you from problems and frustrations on bringing along the appropriate apparel items for layering up 1. Boundary Trail the trail, where you don’t have instruction books or (perhaps) and down as temperatures change from morning to afternoon Journey through Washington’s Pasayten Wilderness. » p.12 anyone around to help you. Rehearse with your gear at home. to evening. Keep these items easily accessible if you need to Set up your tent and learn how the fly goes on. Practice react quickly to sudden weather changes. 2. Columbia Plateau Trail cooking (making sure you have the correct fuel for your stove), filtering water and packing (without overpacking) your bag. Stretch your legs on this 134-mile rail trail. » p.14 Ford a River 3. Loowit Trail Buy the Right Size Boots If you’re required to ford a bridgeless river, take the proper Explore the volcanic landscape around Mount St. Helens . » p.16 precautions. Before charging across, scout up and down the Your feet swell when you hike. Combine that with extra- river for the safest crossing, which is often where the river is 4. Kettle Crest Trail thick hiking socks over long miles, and your feet are going to widest and slowest. Keep your boots on (or change into water Enjoy wildflowers and wildlife in Eastern Washington. » p.18 protest, most often resulting in cramps, pain and blisters— shoes), and release your pack’s waist and sternum straps in bad news if you still have several days, or weeks, to go. When case you need to ditch it quickly if you fall in. It’s better to 5. Olympic Coast Trail selecting your hiking boots, try them on with the socks you chase down wet gear than have wet gear drag you down. Roam the rugged northern section of Washington’s coast. » p.20 plan to wear (including liners) and make sure you have a little 12 18 “swelling room” by sizing up at least half a size. 6. Pacific Crest Trail Leave No Trace Sample the PCT from the Columbia River to Indian Heaven. » p.22 Sample and Vary Your Menu Whenever possible, select established campsites. When not possible, choose a camp area that will have minimal impact on 7. Pacific Northwest Trail Nothing can ruin a long-distance trip quicker than poor the landscape, such as a durable surface like dirt, rock or snow. Take a 1,230-mile trek from the Rockies to the Pacific. » p.24 menu planning. Sample foods before getting on the trail and Abide by the rule of 200, keeping your camp, cooking and choose the ones you’re going to want to eat. Select a variety toilet areas at least 200 feet from trails and water. Always pack 8. Spider Loop Trail of foods so you’re not eating the same things every day or two out what you pack in, and never throw smoldering items— Go for big scenery in the Glacier Peak Wilderness. » p.26 and quickly tiring of some items. Be sure the foods you select matches, campfire coals, etc.—into the brush. are providing the daily calories you need to keep you fueled 9. William O. Douglas Trail up and avoiding the “bonk.” Hike from Yakima’s shrub-steppe to Mount Rainier. » p.28 ENJOY THE TRIP Remember that while long-distance hiking can be 10. Wonderland Trail Carry a Map and Compass punishing, it is not punishment. You’re hiking to enjoy the Washington’s signature loop around Mount Rainier. » p.30 There are lots of tech gadgets out there to help get you outdoors, breathe the fresh air, and view wild, untamed from point A to point B, but none should take the place of country. Despite the challenges, every day will have rewards, a good ol’ map and compass. A map will never run low on big and small. You may have to look harder for some, but batteries, and a compass will still function reliably in the cold they’re out there, waiting to be discovered. COVER: A PCT hiker stops to enjoy the wide panorama on Rock 26 Pass in the Paysayten Wilderness. Photo by Andy Porter 2 Washington Trails | Epic Trails | wta.org Washington Trails | Epic Trails | wta.org 3 PCT hiker at Rock Pass in the Pasayten Wilderness. Photo by Andy Porter MIND OVER MATTER You don’t need to be an Olympic triathlete to do a long-distance hike. Just about anyone in good health with moderate fitness can hike a few hundred miles. One of the keys to a successful long-distance hike is being open and flexible enough to deal with whatever nature, or your own body, throws at you. You will get hot; you will get cold; you will get tired; you will get wet; you will get dirty; you will get lonely; you will get bitten by bugs; you may get sunburned; you may get rained on; you may get blisters; you may get hurt; you may get scared; you may cry. While that sounds like a lot of detractions, it is nothing to be ashamed of when it happens—and it will happen. Even the most ardent hikers get discouraged or break down from time to time.

Often, the hardest part of an extended journey is the first week or two. That’s when your legs are fresh (despite how many conditioning hikes you’ve taken), your pack is the heaviest and your end goal is a million miles away. But the only way you’re going to see that far-off wilderness is to put one foot in front of the other and do it. You will quickly find that the panoramic views suddenly make your aches go away, that refreshing drinks from icy streams reenergize you when you’re tired and that freeze-dried stroganoff tastes really good when noshing in a high lake basin with sunset alpenglow lighting up the peaks around you.

plan for success Once you have identified the long-distance trail you want to hike, you need to start planning. This involves researching the trail, planning your itinerary, obtaining any necessary permits, identifying potential hiking companions and getting yourself into shape. Depending on the length of your selected trail, and the amount of time you plan on hiking, this can be quite an endeavor—albeit a fun one that will doubtless get you even more excited for your trek. DO YOUR RESEARCH: The best way to learn about the trail you’re interested in is to study guidebooks and websites and to purchase trail maps, making sure that they cover your entire route. Read blogs of other hikers who have hiked the trail and can offer insights and advice. If the trail has an interest group or forum, try connecting with other hikers for helpful information. If the trail you want to hike requires a permit, know the application dates and deadlines.

Hiking group on Mount By Eli Boschetto Rainier’s Wonderland Trail. AN INTRODUCTION TO LONG-DISTANCE HIKING }}} Photo by Colleen Ponto

o, you’re a frequent hiker, and you One of the biggest misconceptions about long-distance hikes is that they are just like a regular backpack, only longer. Yes and no. Unlike a even try to get in a few weekend weekender in the Enchantments, a long-distance hike (we’re talking a week minimum to more than a month; up to six months if you’re looking Sbackpacks every summer. But that at the entire PCT) is an exercise in endurance and perseverance, both mentally and physically. book you recently read or photo you But it’s not all about pain and suffering. A long-distance hike offers an saw now has you interested in taking it exciting opportunity to get away from it all and experience wilderness in a way that shorter trips often don’t allow. If you’re out for just a few days, up a notch. After all, “If they can do it, I you often have to turn around and head home just as you’re getting your trail groove on. But a long trip puts you out in big, wide-open nature can do it.” But before you run out and try where your everyday life fades into the background and your only cares to join hiking’s varsity squad, you need become the next mountain view, the next cool water source and the next choice campsite. But in order to pull off a successful long-distance to be prepared. or thru-hike, you need to plan and prepare with a goal in mind but be able to take any curveballs that come your way.

4 Washington Trails | Epic Trails | wta.org Washington Trails | Epic Trails | wta.org 5 PLAN YOUR ITINERARY: Start with how many days your food weight; if you’re going have access to lots of water, carry only what you want to be on the trail. If your hike will be over a few atch your pack weight. Ditch unnecessary you need to get you from one source to the next, and time your breaks and weeks, you will likely want to plan pretty specifically; if camps to replenish your supply. Of course, cutting weight is not an excuse to your hike with be over a few months, you can build in a Wand frivolous additions and carefully discard essentials. You should still carry all of your Ten Essentials, including lot more flexibility. Also consider: known water and camp evaluate “luxury items.” Camp towels, pillows rain gear, first aid kit and a water filtration system. locations, resupply points, trail conditions for the time of and entertainment items are nice to have, but all On the flip side, there are some items that you may year you’re hiking and “zero” days. You want to plan an INDULGE A LITTLE: those creature comforts add up in pounds. Invest want to add to your pack that can help you recover from long miles and itinerary that is reasonable for you (and any companions) ensure that you enjoy your trip. Pack along a pair of lightweight camp shoes or to achieve and gets you from start to finish in the time you in the lightest versions you can find, consider sandals so you can let your feet escape your sweaty boots at the end of every have available—but still allows you the freedom to stop alternate items or forego them altogether. hiking day. Carry a supply of treats in your food bag that you get to enjoy as and photograph the flowers or enjoy a nice lakeside lunch. Remember that hiking a long-distance — Tami Asars your reward for reaching the next campsite. Yes, you want to watch your pack If you plan too aggressive an itinerary or too many daily trail, such as the PCT, PNT or Wonderland, Author, Hiking the Wonderland Trail weight, but you still want to enjoy yourself. miles, your hike will feel more like work than recreation. is a journey unto itself. The completion of the trail should not come at the expense of GET IN TRAIL SHAPE: Nothing will prepare you for your, or others', health and well-being. hiking like hiking. Once your itinerary is set and the other Hike your own hike logistics are taken care of, start conditioning for your trek. Go out on Learn how to route-find with a map practice hikes with a full pack. Be sure to add some grinders in there to For most hikers, taking an epic long-distance trek is a once-in-a-lifetime and compass, and carry maps that build strength in your legs. Hit the gym or do a home workout to build opportunity. Ask yourself what you hope to get out of your adventure, cover a broad area. Consider any applicable back and core strength to help manage your pack weight and improve Lighten Your Load and make that a priority. If you like taking lakeside naps in the afternoons, smartphone apps for the trail you are hiking, trail balance. Find the right boot–sock combination and get your feet then work that into your itinerary. If you like photographing wildflowers or such as the Halfmile app for the PCT or You don’t need to buy a new set of ultralight gear to go used to working. By starting your trip physically, as well as mentally, identifying trees, then add extra time in your days for that. Don't feel like you Green Trails’ Wonderland Mapp. Know the on a long-distance hike. Cut weight from your regular gear need to be one with the crowd alternate routes and roads out to the nearest prepared, you will feel much more confident about your endeavor and by making just a few adjustments to what you usually carry. ready for the challenges ahead. and that you’re required to hike trailheads in the event of adverse conditions a specific number of miles each Joan “Hemlock” or personal health and safety needs. q GEAR: Minimize the number of comfort items you’re West on Glen packing along, especially electronics that require extra day. Hiking is not a contest, and Pass on the PCT, Learn the basics of wilderness first aid, Pack SMART batteries. Choose items that can serve dual purposes: roll you have nothing to prove. Do in California’s up your puffy jacket to serve as a pillow, and use your what’s good for you. After all, Sierra Nevada. including how to prevent and treat Packing for a long-distance hike is much the same as packing for a sleeping pad as a camp chair. you’re doing this for fun, not for health concerns ranging from blisters and weekend hike, with just a little more thoughtfulness about what you punishment. Build in “zero” days sunburns to muscle strain, hypothermia, tick want to carry. For a short weekend jaunt, you may be willing to lug a q FOOD: You should not skimp on food to cut weight, to relax at special locations. Send bites and giardia. camp chair, bottle of merlot and fresh avocados with you. But after just but instead choose lightweight foods that still supply the yourself treats and fresh socks in calories you need. Freeze-dried foods are lighter than Trust your own gut feeling, whether it a few days of starting a multi-week endeavor, you start thinking about your resupply packages. Carry dehydrated foods and require less water and cooking time pertains to river crossings, impending every single thing in your pack and how it’s weighing you down. to prepare. Repackage all food into ziptop baggies and a small journal for notes and weather or the sense of adverse conditions avoid canned items to minimize trash (and often contain lessons learned along the way. REDUCE PACK WEIGHT: This doesn’t mean you have to break the or critters (including people) nearby. Beware water, which also adds weight). Greet fellow hikers and share bank to buy the latest ultralight hiking gear, cut the handle off your of group decision-making. If the way your experiences and trail beta. Take group is going or the time of day they want toothbrush and trim away spare inches of pack strapping. Look for ways q WATER: Water is heavy, weighing in at 2.2 pounds per the ups with the downs, make to trim weight without compromising your comfort and safety, and don't to hike doesn’t feel right, do what you would liter. On trail, carry only as much as you need (and a little discoveries and make friends but, if you were trekking solo or with a loved overpack with extra apparel (see sidebar). If you’re going to be hiking a extra) to get you to the next good water source. Instead above all, enjoy. Only then will one. Others may change their direction and trail that offers resupply locations, take advantage of these to minimize of carrying a bulky water filter, opt for Aquamira water you look back on your experience follow you—or not. treatment drops or chlorine dioxide purification tablets. with fondness, as one that was Both are effective without the icky taste of iodine. truly worth the effort. è Consider how fast you hike and how often you take “zero” days when q APPAREL: Pack less clothing. You can get away with as little as one extra set of socks and undergarments. Wear deciding the duration of your hike. And he Pacific Crest Trail is a place for personal reflection. the first set for a few days until you start to get a little understand that the exact timing of your I have had incredible experiences with the people stinky, then switch to the other. Rinse out your dirty items hike can be affected by seasonal factors T in camp and let hang dry on your pack while you hike. Don’t believe that thru-hikers are superior to [other] hikers. such as snowpack, river crossings and the I’ve met along the way. And I have experienced peace Change out again after a few more days. Repeat. availability of water. and solitude in quiet places and triumph in the The beauty of backpacking is that there are so many physical challenges. It gives the opportunity to escape q FOOTWEAR: Most popular long-distance trails wonderful ways of doing it. Define your own hike: flip-flops, PCT hikers, especially those covering are usually well-maintained so you can ditch the heavy chunk hikes, section hikes, routes, multiple trails, continuous California and Oregon, should be aware everyday life and spend time in beautiful wilderness. mountaineering boots, which will quickly become lead that there have been more fires and less But an important part of making one’s experience weights on your feet. Choose a pair of light to midweight or not; get creative. And redefine your goals as you go, water available along the trail in recent hikers that provide the support you need and supplement and acknowledge that sometimes goals change over the years. Research which stove to use (if any) safe and enjoyable is proper preparation. The PCTA those with good trekking socks and ultralight liners. course of your hike. Allow yourself to grow and learn. Be to minimize the risk of igniting a forest fire. provides extensive planning information for new and Determine how much water to carry, along experienced hikers. Learn how to prepare for the PCT q CAMERA: You definitely want to get photos of curious about everything. Discover what brings you joy. The your adventure, but unless you’re snapping for National with where to access it, and how to get experience of your lifetime. Geographic, you can leave the DSLR, extra lenses and tripod important thing is to get out on the trail. through long waterless stretches. Do not be at home. Pack along a small bridge camera or just use your dependent on Trail Magic water stashes. — Liz Bergeron — Joan “Hemlock” West smartphone. There are plenty of cool apps for iPhones PCTA Executive Director and CEO PCT section hiker, 2014 and Androids that let you get really creative with outdoor Be safe and have one of the most photography. amazing journeys of your lifetime!

6 Washington Trails | Epic Trails | wta.org Washington Trails | Epic Trails | wta.org 7 y Looking at sick Have you ever Why do that to photos on Instagram backpacked before? yourself—and n Going solo « Someone I just Stephen Katz met on Tinder Friend or family everyone else?

Who are Are they Slow down, you going n Try Turbo a hiker? to hike again with? Swipe left Try a weekend y What inspires trip first you to hike a THE SHIRE long-distance When planning an epic long-distance trek, trail? Agree on itinerary and expectations n there are hundreds of decisions to make Check out WTA's Are they willing Trip Reports for to dig and use a when it comes to preparation, choosing a great trail info « cathole? Being a long-time y Study books, hiker and ready for a hiking companion, sorting your gear and blogs and maps Don't lose your new challenge Share the load « brushing up on trail skills. Take this quiz to see arc reactor « A. Can you read a how ready you are to hit the big trails. If you Are you an map and compass? y Train on the trail reach a star («) you can move on to the next Iron Man? stage. When you complete all seven, you’re Do you y n n ready for the bigtime. TRAINING know your WITH WHO What is trail skills? INSPIRATION your training plan? PERMITS TRAIL SKILL Add one week to Hit the gym and Use Learn More your itinerary, or ... take practice hikes « my cell FOOTWEAR phone CLOTHING The information offered in this article provides just a brief overview of some of the aspects of C. Are you leaving Do you need your hiking itinerary y Take planning a long-distance hike. If you are planning a class a permit for with a friend or y n an epic trek of your own, it is important that you family member? your hike? seek out additional information and resources to B. Can you hang a bear bag? n help you prepare for and execute a successful trip.

y n Apply Suggested Reading Upset your Skip for mother when Keep food How much permit The Backpacker’s Field Manual: A comprehensive she reads about in tent your rescue clothing are Guide to Mastering Backcountry Skills 127 Hours Hel M! you packing? By Rick Curtis does not One less thing to need a worry about « Cross fingers and Trail Tested: A Thru-Hiker’s Guide to Ultralight sequel wait; better have a backup plan « Hiking and Backpacking Go Hike! Same clothes By Justin Lichter every day Ultralight Backpackin’ Tips: 153 Amazing & Inexpensive Tips For Extremely Lightweight Better do more Less weight, Don't forget to pack Illustration by Change clothes training to carry that more smell; Camping Buy extra good socks « Whitney Maass every day extra weight try wool Do you have By Mike Clelland moleskin all the proper « End your hike gear? Hiking the Wonderland Trail: The Complete Guide I'll leave my early when Wearing my French press « to Mount Rainier's Premier Trail old reliables animals eat I'll buy some n gear and try it By Tami Asars your food Have you Practice packing to out on trail see where you can y Yogi’s Pacific Crest Trail Handbook OK, broken in I don't need trim weight tough Breaking them your boots? my rain gear By Jackie McDonnell guy in on trail

8 Washington Trails | Epic Trails | wta.org Washington Trails | Epic Trails | wta.org 9 I packed more than 60 pounds of camera I felt smart about buying cheap bulk Lessons from THE TRAIL gloves from Costco for climbing gear to Tolmie Peak to shoot some sunset photos of Mount Rainier. I reached the Mount St. Helens. On the climb I We've all done it: pushed forward when we should have turned realized I had grabbed two left- top, got all set up and only then realized handed gloves. back, overloaded our packs or forgotten an essential. that I had left all of my memory cards at home on my desk! LESSON: Check and test your new When hikers make mistakes—and we all make them—those gear before heading out on trail. blunders usually teach us important lessons for future hikes—and LESSON: Make a gear checklist to ensure you don't — Vinay Kulkarni often become something to laugh about later. But there’s no reason forget anything. And carry backup memory cards! you have to develop your trail skills the hard way. — Randall Southam Learn from the experiences of these hikers who have generously I underpacked food for a 4-day trip shared lessons they’ve learned the hard way so you don't have to. in the Enchantments. I was ravenous the entire time, and even though I’m a vegetarian the mountain goats During a SAR training course in the started looking tasty! woods, my partner and I put down I tightened my hiking boots too LESSON: Pack enough food to stay our packs and marked them with much on a 20-mile dayhike. fueled for your whole trip. a bit of flagging. When we went My feet got so hot, swollen and — Ingunn Markiewicz back for our packs in the dark, we painful that I wanted to cut couldn't find them, resulting in a cold them off—figuratively speaking. miserable night in the snow. In the I went for a dayhike wearing a cotton LESSON: Size up at least half a size morning we found our packs only 20 hoodie. The day started nice, but then it for hiking footwear. Wear durable, feet away. I started a 10-day Olympics traverse breathable socks (liners help too), and suddenly changed and started raining. with an 80-pound pack, most of don't over-tighten your boots. By the time I returned, I was soaked and LESSON: Reflective ties and straps can which was food. At the end of the trip When I was young, I was help you find your gear in the dark. hypothermia started setting in. I still had more than a quarter of the — Ernesto Lopez approached by a bear in the — David Johnson food I had packed, which kept my LESSON: Wool, and some synthetics, will keep Yosemite backcountry. Not realizing pack heavy through the whole trip. you warm when wet—and check the forecast! that I was standing directly under — Christina R. the food bag my dad had hung, I LESSON: Careful menu planning will picked up a big stick and pretended help you avoid overpacking. On a bust of a strenuous trip in I was a tree while the bear paced the Necklace Valley, my poor — James L. around me. On the other side of pooch had rubbed his paw My friend and I hiked down Granite camp my sister screamed, and the pads raw, developed blisters Mountain in the dark because bear eventually went away. between his paw pads and neither of us had packed a headlamp suffered from a muscle strain or any other kind of light source, and LESSON: If approached by a black that he's still getting expensive we hadn’t bothered to check the time bear, speak softly and back away therapy for. The trip retired him of sunset. slowly. If it shows aggressive behavior from anything more than easy to get food, let the bear have what it dayhikes. LESSON: A head lamp or flashlight is one of wants. Report the incident to a ranger. the Ten Essentials. — Jane Geddes LESSON: Consider trail conditions Illustrations by before bringing Fido. — Louise Kornreich

— Ashley Mihle I was flicking mushrooms off the Mount Pugh Trail with my trekking pole. I came The first time I went backpacking across a big cap in the trail with a few with my oldest son, I brought a My dog was carrying my water filter and bottles wasps on it and figured I'd flick it out 5-pound sledgehammer (hanging in his pack when a bull elk crossed the trail— of the way for the next hiker. Too late, and he was off! I was left with only a small I realized there was a nest underneath on the back of my pack) to drive the tent stakes into the ground. amount of water and no way to purify more. and suddenly numerous upset wasps Thankfully my dog was back the next morning. were stinging me. LESSON: Lighten your load. Use a rock. LESSON: Wildlife encounters are just one of LESSON: Minimize your impact on nature. It — Brian Warn the great reasons to keep Fido on a leash. may just bite back. And keep important items with you.

— Ben Lawson — Sheryl Schmeling

10 Washington Trails | Epic Trails | wta.org Washington Trails | Epic Trails | wta.org 11

Despite the Boundary Trail’s remote location, it is still possible to experience a portion of the trail BITS & PIECES as a dayhike or weekend overnight. Be careful—you’ll be tempted to do more. By Charles Hickenbottom | Photos by Marc Dilley

HIKE: HORSESHOE BASIN BACKPACK: CATHEDRAL PASS TREK: BOUNDARY TRAIL DISTANCE: 12 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 1,500 ft. DISTANCE: 44 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 4,000+ ft. DISTANCE: 80+ miles ELEVATION GAIN: 9,000 ft. Horseshoe Basin is the only portion of the The 44-mile loop through Cathedral Pass One of the biggest challenges of hiking the Boundary Trail accessible to dayhikers. Due offers some of the best scenery that the entire 80-plus-mile Boundary Trail is where (BT) is an adventure on many a hiker’s bucket list. to the Irongate trailhead’s remote location, Boundary Trail has to offer. Start at the 30- to exit. The “official” ending descends to Hiking the Boundary Trail Ross Lake via the Castle Pass and Lightning The trail spans the width of the Pasayten Wilderness and is part of the much larger Pacific Northwest it is best to plan for at least a couple of days Mile trailhead on the Chewuch River out of to hike this one. The route begins with a nice Winthrop. Hike 10 easy miles along the river, Creek trails. However, this section receives National Scenic Trail. The combination of stunning scenery and lack of crowds is one of the BT’s most 5-mile hike to 7,200-foot Sunny Pass, the then make the climb to 6,870-ft Remmel little maintenance and is not recommended. enticing aspects—especially in autumn, when colors are changing, temperatures are cooling and portal into Horseshoe Basin. Along the way Lake and many camps. Views of surrounding From Three Forks Junction, one option bugs are gone. A number of places along the trail are so special that you’ll have the images etched you’ll hike through some pleasant forest peaks will keep you entranced. Continue heads south up the Middle Fork Pasayten into your memory for years to come. and also dead timber from the Tripod Fire. 6 more miles to circle Amphitheater Trail to exit via Slate Pass. Hiking out via You’ll want to continue at least another flat Mountain, passing upper Cathedral Lake to the West Fork Pasayten Trail exits near Slate mile to Horseshoe Pass to put yourself in the 7,600-ft Cathedral Pass. Hike 5 miles east in Peak. Two other options provide access to midst of the immense flowery meadows. mostly open terrain to Tungsten Mine, then the Pacific Crest Trail via either Woody Pass By autumn, most of the annoying insects close the loop by hiking 6 miles down the or Holman Pass. From Holman Pass, longer The Trail: Starting at the Irongate trailhead west of Loomis—and doing the trip east to will be gone, but in the summer season be Tungsten Trail, then finish back down the options exist to hike over Devils Dome to west—means reaching the hallowed meadows of Horseshoe Basin on the first day of your trip. prepared for mosquitoes. Chewuch River. Ross Lake or McMillan Park to Hwy 20. You’ll reach the portal of 7,200-ft Sunny Pass at 5.2 miles, and the view of the vast meadows will EXPLORE MORE: be but an introduction to the scenic feast ahead. Camping is available at several places in the basin, but in late season Loudon Lake may be the only available water. From Horseshoe Basin, the If you like to get off the trail and scramble easy summits, Canadian border is just a mile away via easy cross-country travel. Continuing westward over mostly Irongate TH Sunny Pass Teapot DomeScheeliteTungsten Pass Mine Ashnola RiverPeeve Pass Bunker Hill The Boundary Trail from Bunker Hill to all exits west Robinson Pass Horseshoe Basin Apex Pass Cathedral Pass Slate Pass open terrain with views, the Tungsten Mine is reached at 21 miles. Several rusty mining relics can the Boundary Trail was 7,500 ft. Loudon Lake Upper Cathedral Lake has deteriorated badly due to wildfires and erosion. Some routefinding may be necessary. For more info, be found near the trail. When you reach Apex Pass a few miles farther on, you’re presented with made for you. Armstrong 7,000 ft. visit wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/boundary-trail-1. your first views of craggy Cathedral Peak, unlike anything else in the Pasayten. Mountain (8,100 ft) is a 6,500 ft. long mile from Horseshoe 6,000 ft. At 26 miles you’ll reach 7,600-ft Cathedral Pass, then head down to upper Cathedral Lake near Basin and takes you right 5,500 ft. the base of the impressive 8,360-ft Amphitheater Mountain. Camping is good here, and you’ll want Pasayten River Three Forks to the U.S.–Canadian 5,000 ft. time to savor the ambiance. If you’ve built in a layover day or have a few hours to spare, consider 4,500 ft. the extra few miles for the unmarked trail up the south side of Amphitheater Mountain. This horse border. Haig Mountain is 4,000 ft. trail goes nearly to the top, and the views include most of the Pasayten Wilderness. higher, but Teapot Dome 3,500 ft. 0 mi. 10 mi. 20 mi. 30 mi. 40 mi. 50 mi. 60 mi. 70 mi. 80 mi. (7,610 ft) is just a half mile Leaving the Cathedral Lakes behind, the views continue as you hike west, with bulky 8,685-ft from the Boundary Trail. Remmel Mountain being front and center. This is followed by a long descent to the log crossing Apex Mountain (8,300 Boundary Trail Stats over the Ashnola River at 38 miles. Across the river is a 2,000-ft climb to more big meadows near ft) is almost mandatory, 6,900-ft Peeve Pass at 42 miles. given the legendary views DISTANCE: 80+ miles, depending on exit route CLIMATE: Summer days are typically warm to hot; Following the pass, trail conditions begin to deteriorate before it climbs right over the top of Cathedral Peak. Bald thunderstorms can be common, so pack your rain HIGHEST POINT: Apex Pass at 7,800 ft. gear. Fall days begin to cool off. Evenings can get of 7,240-ft Bunker Hill. Stop for lunch here before descending a bit more than 3,000 feet to the Mountain (7,930 ft) from LOWEST POINT: Pasayten River at 3,900 ft. cool to cold. Snow can occur at any time of year. Pasayten River. Ford the river—a detour downstream may be necessary—then hike upstream for 7 the 7,100-foot pass east miles to the site of the old Three Forks Cabin. Here is a pivotal trail junction where three streams of of the Ashnola River and TRIP TIME: 7 to 10 days WILDLIFE: Watch for the usual mountain dwellers: the Pasayten come together. Hiking out via the mostly forested Middle Fork Pasayten River is the Sheep Mountain (8,275 ft) BEST SEASON: Mid-July through October deer, mountain goats, marmots, squirrels and pikas. shortest way out to the Slate Pass trailhead (Harts Pass area, 80 hiking miles from Irongate). from Peeve Pass will each Elk and moose are occasionally spotted in the area, MAPS: Green Trails 18, 19, 20, 21, 50 but bear sightings are infrequent. Logistics: To hike the BT in its entirety, you’ll need to consider the logistics to accomplish this take at least a few hours of PERMITS: NW Forest Pass for trailhead parking 80-plus-mile one-way hike. There are several possibilities for arranging transportation—find a your time. GUIDEBOOK: Backpacking Washington by Douglas friend to assist with shuttling, or do a key swap with another hiker going the opposite direction. INFORMATION: www.fs.usda.gov/activity/ Lorain details the Boundary Trail in two portions, Classic Mountain Cabby in Twisp can assist with transportation to the Irongate trailhead.è okawen/recreation/hiking the east side and the west side.

While you can't hike the Columbia Plateau Trail (easily) from end-to-end, there are several BITS & PIECES options for exploring the northern and southern reaches of this historic thoroughfare.

HIKE: SNAKE RIVER HIKE: FISH LAKE HIKE: AMBER LAKE DISTANCE: 6 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 150 ft. DISTANCE: 7.5 miles ELEVATION GAIN: Minimal DISTANCE: 15 miles ELEVATION GAIN: Minimal The southern terminus of the Columbia The only stretch of the CPT improved with South of Cheney, the CPT passes through Plateau surveys the stark, scalloped Snake smooth blacktop, the 3.75-mile stretch from a section of the 18,000-acre Turnbull River country of southeast Washington. Fish Lake Regional Park to the Cheney trail- National Wildlife Refuge that is otherwise Pioneer John Mullan scratched out a wagon head makes a fine introduction to the trail inaccessible to the public. For a longer road here in the middle of the 19th century; for hikers, bikers and, in the winter, snow- dayhike, start at the popular angling waters the rail line sometimes runs on top of the shoers and Nordic skiers. Beginning at Fish of Amber Lake, amble north through aspens old wagon road, sometimes paralleling Lake Regional Park, the rail-trail skirts the and plateau shrubs—dogwood, sumac and it, offering an added bit of history. For southeast side of the lake before chugging currant. In contrast to much of the rest of a pleasant stroll for all ages, follow the slowly but steadily uphill amidst ponderosa its length, the CPT here passes through the he Spokane, Portland and Seattle rail line represented the last major triumph of railroad magnate east shore of the Snake River and admire pines and basalt columns, past several large ponderosa pine belt of Eastern Washington; James J. Hill, the “Empire Builder.” Today, recreationists can survey the Inland Empire’s wetlands, anglers—both avian and human—at work tracts of agricultural land. On either side, these spicy-scented evergreens provide in the shadeless landscape. Most foot shallow “pothole” wetlands, scoured into cover for mule deer and a large population T working farms and Western-movie vistas on this 130-mile rail-trail through Eastern Washington’s travelers turn around at Burr Canyon Road; the basalt bedrock by ancient floodwaters, of elk. Moose frequent the shallow marshes channeled scablands, now maintained as Columbia Plateau Trail State Park. beyond here, the railroad ballast begins to provide oases for migratory birds and belie of the refuge’s interior, as do a variety of bear down on hikers’ boots. Eastern Washington’s dry reputation. waterfowl. Return by the same route. Hikers won’t find snowcapped spires or gemlike lakes, but they will find a sprawling expanse of sagebrush, soybean and wheat pitted with pothole ponds, all tucked away into Washington’s breadbasket. Even better, this arid landscape—straight out of a John Ford Western—can be Hike & photos accessed virtually year-round, making it a worthwhile destination for winter-weary hikers. by Aaron Theisen CPT Stats Through much of its length, the Columbia Plateau Trail (CPT) passes through the channeled scablands, the canyon-carved remains of cataclysmic ice-age floods some 15,000 to 30,000 years DISTANCE: 134 miles (38 miles for day use) ago. Around the maze of basalt buttes and broad mesas, windblown loess (a rich but fragile topsoil Turnbull Refuge at 2,280 ft. produced by the erosion of lava flows) has, over the millennia, settled in drifts up to 10,000 feet STAY HYDRATED: HIGHEST POINT: thick. The result is some of the world’s best agricultural soil punctuated by arid, hardscrabble Although an oasis for LOWEST POINT: Snake River at 600 ft. rock. And all around is the surprising hum of life: raptors perch on pioneer fenceposts searching TRIP TIME: day use only for meals of voles and mice, coyotes and foxes saunter here and there in their own search for wildlife, the Columbia sustenance, and rodents—and rattlesnakes—move stealthily underfoot. Porcupines, beavers, Plateau Trail accesses BEST SEASON: October – May turtles and turkeys find refuge here as well. little in the way of MAPS: WA State Parks Columbia Plateau Spring is the ideal—some might say only—time to hike the CPT. Best is early March, when amenities for two- PERMITS: Discover Pass the February doldrums have burned off and tick season has yet to peak. The shallow rocky soils INFORMATION: parks.wa.gov showcase some of springtime’s earliest blooms, including sagebrush buttercup and desert-parsley. legged travelers along Later in the spring, bright pink bitterroots daub the otherwise drab ground. In colder winter most of the route. Bring CLIMATE: The driest part of the state, the Columbia months, the low-angled winter sun casts grasses and rimrock in stark relief. Plateau sees a scant 7 inches of rain annually in plenty of water. The some places. Summers can be mercilessly hot in the Paralleled by private lands and, at times, working rail lines, the route can be accessed from largely shade-free environs, while winters often see several trailheads along its length; currently, 23 miles between Lincoln County and Cheney and trail, shade-free for only a dusting of wind-blown snow. another 15 miles near Tri-Cities between Ice Harbor Dam and Snake River Junction are developed much of its length, can Watch for mule deer, moose, elk, coyote, for public use. The remaining 96 miles between Martin Road southwest of Cheney and the Snake WILDLIFE: be mercilessly hot in the fox, beaver, badger, Hungarian partridge, chukar, River near the Tri-Cities offer no services and are difficult to negotiate, particularly because two quail and wild turkey. gated trestles require detours. It’s possible, with advance planning for off-route camps, to make a summer, and there is no multiday traverse of the trail, but the railroad ballast—fist-sized crushed rock that composes the water along the route. GUIDEBOOK: Day Hike Eastern Washington, by railbed—on much of the trail’s length is more friendly to a fat bike than hiking boots. Most hikers Craig Romano, highlights several more hikes in the will stick to day trips, watching the antique mile markers tick by as they traverse the plateau. Columbia Plateau and Channeled Scablands areas.

The 30-mile Loowit Trail can be hiked in as little as two days, making it an ideal weekend or long BITS & PIECES weekend getaway. For single-day trips, shorter trails visit some of the Loowit Trail's highlights.

HIKE: LOOWIT FALLS HIKE: APE CANYON BACKPACK: LOOWIT TRAIL DISTANCE: 9.2 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 800 ft. DISTANCE: 11 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 1,400 ft. DISTANCE: 30+ miles ELEVATION GAIN: 5,900 ft. From the Windy Ridge Viewpoint, descend This view-packed day hike begins at the The Loowit Trail can be hiked from any on the Truman Trail to the stark Plains of end of Road 83 near Lava Canyon. The number of connecting trailheads, in either Abraham to pick up the Loowit Trail west. trail climbs steadily through one of the clockwise or counter-clockwise direction. The route contours the lower flanks of the remaining stands of old-growth forest on Plan your itinerary with specific overnight TRAILS mountain, below the gaping crater above. Mount St. Helens. As you gain elevation, locations in mind in order to best manage TON A G SS At a junction, take the left fork for a short wide views taking in Mount Adams and the 11-mile camping restriction through IN O H C climb up the Sasquatch Steps to the Loowit Mount Rainier open up. At the crest of the the Blast Zone. Because of its exposure, I S A

A T Falls viewpoint. Because of the unstable trail, near the junction with the Loowit Trail, with little vegetation, the Loowit Trail is

I W O W N nature of volcanic terrain, the Loowit Creek is the narrow slot of Ape Canyon—named constantly eroding and evolving. Carry a Loowit Trail ORKED Canyon, including the falls, is constantly so for the mysterious creature once sighted map and compass, and look for cairns and hERE changing. As the slopes continue to erode, in the area in 1924. Wander north on the other markers leading the way. A detour has Loowit Falls may get larger, or eventually Loowit, across plains of light-colored been established in the Sheep Canyon area disappear. Loowit Falls can also be accessed cinders, with huge views of Mount St. Helens where a recent washout took out a large from the Boundary Trail at Johnston Ridge. eastern flanks, where colorful summer portion of the trail. Take advantage of water ftentimes, hiking an epic, life-list trail is an exercise in planning and logistics. Not so with the This option is a 15-mile round trip. wildflowers dot the barren landscape. sources, and use lots of sun protection. PHOTOS: Opposite by Orion Ahrensfeld; Bits: Left by Jim Cummins; Center, right and lower by Eli Boschetto by and lower right Center, Jim Cummins; by Bits: Left Orion Ahrensfeld; by Opposite PHOTOS: Loowit Trail around Mount St. Helens. This 30-mile loop (not including connector trails) around Washington's renowned volcano can be done in as little as a long weekend, and offers hikers a chance to venture into a primal landscape, violently touched by nature. WATER TIP: Access to water on the Loowit

Trailheads: Accessing the Loowit Trail can be done from six primary trailheads around the Trail is extremely limited. Sheep Canyon Ape Canyon Trail mountain, each with its own advantages depending on where you’re traveling from. From There are numerous streams Windy RidgeLoowit Trail Falls South Fork Toutle River Blue Lake Trail Butte Camp Trail Climber's Bivouac Trail June Lake Trail Pumice ButtePlains ofWindy Abraham Pass Johnston Ridge at the end of Spirit Lake Highway (SR-504), the loop can be accessed by a 6.1- flowing off the mountain, 4,800 ft. 4,600 ft. mile connection using the Boundary and Truman Trails. The views of Mount St. Helens along this but many of them can dry up BLAST ZONE connector are stellar. On the east side, the Loowit Trail can be accessed via a 3-mile leg of the 4,400 ft. • No Camping • by mid-summer. Those that 4,200 ft. Truman Trail from the Windy Ridge Viewpoint on Road 25. Logistically, this is the best point for do keep running may not be 4,000 ft. starting and finishing the loop. On the south side of the mountain, there are three trailheads: safe to drink. If the water is 3,800 ft. Redrock Pass, Climber’s Bivouac and June Lake. The former starts from Road 8100 and climbs milky-white, it means there 3,600 ft. a healthy 1,700 feet over 3.6 miles, passing Butte Camp Dome; the latter two are the shortest, 3,400 ft. is a high ash content (silica perhaps easiest, connectors from large trailhead areas on Roads 830 and 83, respectively. These 3,200 ft. 0 mi. 5 mi. 10 mi. 15 mi. 20 mi. 25 mi. 30 mi. and other minerals), which 2.1- and 1.7-mile connectors climb gently through forest to connect to the Loowit Trail. From the can be harmful if ingested. trailhead at Blue Lake on the west side, a 4-mile connector climbs along Sheep Canyon. Look for water that is running Loowit Trail Stats The Trail: The Loowit Trail is not your typical jaunt through a Cascades forest. You will be clear to top off your bottles circumnavigating a harsh landscape recently pummelled by one of nature's most powerful forces. for drinking. If you're pressed DISTANCE: 30-mile loop + 1.7 to 6.1-mile access CLIMATE: With most of the trail fully exposed and And what the trail lacks in distance (in comparison to the longer Wonderland loop), it more than to use an unfavorable water dry, summer days can be quite warm and often HIGHEST POINT: Windy Pass at 4,900 ft. windy, while nights can get cold. Pack layers, wear a makes up for in challenges and in-your-face mountain views. You'll traverse wide plains of volcanic source, filter it several times, LOWEST POINT: South Fork Toutle River at 3,300 ft. hat and sunscreen, and stay hydrated. cinders dotted with lava bombs, scramble over rough and rocky lava flows and ford swollen including once through a streams and rivers cascading down from high snowfields and young glaciers. folded bandana or shirt TRIP TIME: 2 to 4 days WILDLIFE: Watch for snakes, lizards and small to remove as much of the mammals scurrying about and sunning themselves Logistics: In addition to the exposure and challenging terrain around the flanks of Mount St. BEST SEASON: June through October suspended mineral content on the rocks. Elk herds often roam the plateaus on Helens, there are also a few restrictions to hikers. The 11-mile stretch traversing the Blast Zone, MAPS: Green Trails 364S the north side. between Windy Pass and the South Fork Toutle River, is off-limits for camping. This makes starting as possible. And carry lots of PERMITS: NW Forest Pass for trailhead parking at Windy Ridge on a counter-clockwise route one of the best options. Hikers must also stick to the water, as there may be long GUIDEBOOK: Backpacking Washington by Douglas trail. No off-trail travel is permitted. Suggested camping areas near reliable water can be found on stretches between sources. INFORMATION: www.fs.usda.gov/activity/ Lorain provides a detailed description of the Loowit the west side near Sheep Canyon, the south side near June Lake and the east side near Ape Canyon. mountsthelens/recreation/hiking and adjoining Mount Margaret loop trails.

At only 44 miles, the Kettle Crest Trail can be hiked over a week, or a couple of weekends—or for The Kettle BITS & PIECES the ridge-runners, in a single day! Want something lighter? Day hike opportunities abound. Washington's Other Crest Trail

Kim Brown

HIKE: Columbia Mountain BACKPACK: Jungle Hill Loop TREK: Kettle Crest 8 miles; 1,300 feet elevation gain 12 miles; 2,400 feet elevation gain 44 miles; 8,000 feet elevation gain This loop hike takes hikers back in time Two of the most popular feeder trails to From the southern trailhead, ascend on the best introduction to the northern access the Kettle Crest, Jungle Hill and through profuse wildflowers on White portion of the Kettle Crest Trail. Hike north Wapaloosie traverse a staggering diversity Mountain before beginning a view-packed from Sherman Pass across the southwestern of classic Kettle Range habitats, from interior stretch past Barnaby Buttes and Bald flank of 6,780-foot Columbia Mountain, mixed-conifer forest to aspen groves and Mountain. The southwest slope of Snow through a unique ecosystem where sagebrush meadows. From Jungle Hill Peak holds great camp spots near the sagebrush intermingles with subalpine fir. Campground, just east of Sherman Pass, shelter. Skirt Sherman Peak and Columbia Hike and photos The high point is the broad, open summit, make a 12-mile loop up Jungle Hill and Mountain, then traipse along a sagebrush- by Aaron Theisen the site of a recently restored lookout down Wapaloosie. A well-used outfitters’ lined ridge; camp sites are scattered along cabin—one of the oldest still standing in the camp at the intersection of Jungle Hill and the way. The high point is 7,140-foot Copper state. From this lofty vantage, peer out over the Kettle Crest Trail provides easy access to Butte, where fragments of an old lookout the arid Okanogan Highlands to the west. To water and wide-open vistas. No jungle here, remain. Descend through a ghost forest Boulder the east, the great green carpet of the Twin but come July the trail is a tangle of waist- of snags and settle in for open grasslands Colville Creek TH The Kettle Crest National Scenic Trail is the granddaddy of long-distance, high-country Sisters roadless area unfurls below, with high wildflowers. Complete the loop with a and lupine-filled fir forest, all the way to the SENTINEL National BUTTE routes in Eastern Washington. Over the course of its 44 miles, it presents a virtual highlight Lake Roosevelt in the distance. short walk back along forest road. northern trailhead at Boulder Pass. Forest reel of dry-side beauty, from sage-scented meadows to subalpine parkland.

TENASKET Located in the far northeast corner of the state, the Kettle Crest features a half-dozen of Eastern MOUNTAIN Washington’s highest peaks, some topping out at more than 7,000 feet. Nominally a ridge-running PROFANITY MOUNT PEAK route, the Kettle Crest tallies up nearly 8,000 feet of cumulative elevation gain over its length. Yet WATER TIP: LEONA RYAN there are no cloud-piercing spires here, just a mosaic of old-growth forests and open sagebrush Tapped springs, HILL meadows, from which shimmer distant vistas of the Cascade and Rocky Mountains. never more than LAMBERT a half-dozen MOUNTAIN Hiking the Kettle Crest also offers an object lesson in one of the key forces shaping Eastern miles apart, can MIDNIGHT Washington: fire. Several sections of the trail creep under ghostly silver snags left standing from past MOUNTAIN hydrate hikers wildfires, most notably the 1988 White Mountain Fire, which scorched more than 20,000 acres of the COPPER who plan refills BELCHER BUTTE southern Kettles. In these sections, wildlife, wildflowers and wide-open views have taken the place of MOUNTAIN the trees, making this one of the scenic highlights of the region. carefully. Keep SCAR in mind this is TIMBER RIDGE MOUNTAIN WAPALOOSIE Owing to its diversity of habitats and lack of human development, the Kettle Range boasts some open rangeland, MOUNTAIN of the best remaining wildlife habitat in Eastern Washington. Hikers should keep their eyes peeled for and cattle Kettle Crest Trail Stats cougar, moose, mule deer and black bear, all cruising the high country. But in summer, the dazzling congregate COLUMBIA JUNGLE array of wildflowers—buckwheat, lupine, aster, yarrow, paintbrush, hawkweed and others—will likely MOUNTAIN HILL around the DISTANCE: 44 miles CLIMATE: In the summer, plan for warm, dry days in the 20 keep your attention focused on the foreground. 70s, with mild evenings. Evening thunderstorms frequently springs, some HIGHEST POINT: Copper Butte: 7,140 ft. Aside from a few wooded saddles, virtually the entire route offers up big views: to the south, the of which have descend upon the range in midsummer. The first snowfall SHERMAN LOWEST POINT: Boulder Pass TH: 4,600 ft. usually dusts the Kettle Crest by mid-October. PEAK Colville Indian Reservation and northernmost reaches of the Columbia Plateau; to the west, the been maintained MOUNT SNOW Okanogan Highlands and, beyond, the Cascades; to the north, the peaks of British Columbia; and to WASHINGTON PEAK in less-than- TRIP TIME: 3 to 4 days WILDLIFE: Watch for mule deer, moose, black bear, cougar, the east, Idaho’s Selkirks. stellar fashion BEST SEASON: July through October blue grouse, pine marten, coyote, snowshoe hare, Canada lynx. by grazing BALD To the Colville tribe, whose ancestral lands encompassed the Kettle Range, the mountains bore BARNABY USGS Quads: Sherman Peak, GUIDEBOOK: Backpacking Washington provides detailed MOUNTAIN leaseholders. MAPS: BUTTES sacred significance. On White Mountain, near the southern terminus of the trail, hikers can inspect Copper Butte, Mount Leona descriptions of the north and south sections of the Kettle cairns built by young members of the tribe during vision quests. Subsequent generations of visitors Filter all your Crest Trail; Columbia Highlands: Exploring Washington's Last None WHITE have also fallen under the spell of the Kettles, and a dedicated group of local conservationists has water. PERMITS: Frontier highlights the natural and cultural forces that shaped MOUNTAIN White spent the last 40 years pressing for a congressional designation of wilderness for the Kettle Crest. INFORMATION: fs.usda.gov/colville northeast Washington. Both books by Craig Romano. Mtn TH

Whether exploring the Olympic Coast for a day, a weekend or longer, there is adventure and BITS & PIECES discovery to be had along every rugged mile of this striking wilderness at the edge of the Pacific.

The wild Olympic Coast—part of both the Olympic Wilderness and National Park—is 49 miles of driftwood-laden beaches, rocky tidepools, imposing headlands and coastal rainforest. In addition to the scenery, a showcase of seabirds and marine life make any venture along this rugged shoreline—long or short—an unforgettable experience.

HIKE: OZETTE TRIANGLE BACKPACK: TOLEAK POINT TREK: OLYMPIC COAST DISTANCE: 9.4 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 300 ft. DISTANCE: 13.6 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 250 ft. DISTANCE: 49 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 2,300 ft. Justifiably one of the most popular—and Descend 1.3 miles through Sitka-spruce and Start at the Hoh River Trailhead and stroll accessible—day hikes on the Olympic Coast, hemlock forest to sandy Third Beach, just north on rocky beach to Jefferson Cove. the Ozette Triangle starts and finishes with south of Teahwhit Head. Stroll southward Traverse Hoh Head, then alternate between strolls through lush coastal rainforest of along the beach for 0.5 mile, then traverse idyllic stretches of sandy beach and forested fern, cedar and spruce, mostly on boardwalk inland through dense forest around Taylor headlands. Ford Mosquito and Falls Creeks paths. In between, a 3-mile stretch of Point. Enjoy another short stretch of beach to Toleak, Strawberry and Taylor Points. Exit coast between Cape Alava and Sand Point with a parade of pointed sea stacks just to La Push Road at Third Beach to cross the showcases sea stacks and offshore islands, offshore. Traverse Scotts Bluff inland during Quillayute River. (Arrange transport, or walk tidepools and ancient petroglyphs. Kick higher tides, then ford Scotts Creek to 9 miles.) Rejoin the trail at Rialto Beach, pass back on the wide beach at Sand Point and another stretch of beach, continuing south Hole-in-the-Wall and round Cape Johnson. look to the sea for seals, otters and whales, 2.7 miles past Strawberry Point to Toleak View Jagged Island offshore before crossing and overhead for an array of seabirds. Start Point. Just past the point, find camps, toilet Cedar Creek and continuing to Kayostla Lake from Lake Ozette and stroll 3.4 miles west to and a shelter near Jackson Creek. Return via Beach. Proceed north to Yellow Banks, then Ozette Cape Alava; turn south and follow the coast the same route. Use your tide table to time on to Sand Point and Cape Alava. Savor he Olympic Coast Trail is commonly divided into two sections: the southern section and the to Sand Point; return 3 miles northeast. your passage near Scotts Creek. Point of Arches and finish at Shi Shi Beach. PHOTOS: Opposite: Todd Entrikin; Bits L–R: Doug Diekema, Charles Emlet, Kelsie Donleycott; Below: Doug Diekema, Charles Kelsie Donleycott; Emlet, Mike Entrikin; Scavezze Bits L–R: Todd Opposite: PHOTOS: northern section. The more difficult 18-mile southern portion stretches from the Hoh River to = Impassable headland Third Beach, traverses several headlands and takes in the wildly scenic Toleak and Strawberry = Cross during low tide Points along the way. The less difficult 31-mile northern portion stretches from Rialto Beach to Shi Shi Beach, visiting Hole in the Wall, the memorial sites of several shipwrecks and the picturesque Point of Arches. Separating the two sections is the Quillayute River, draining from Olympic’s glacier-capped TIDES TIP: peaks to the east. The Olympic Coast Trail is accessible year-round, but is best traveled between the There are numerous months of April and November during any stretch of good weather. headlands and points along the Enjoying a multi-day backpack on the rugged Olympic Coast requires a fair deal of logistical Olympic Coast that planning, more so than your typical backcountry outing. are only passable PERMITS All overnight trips on the Olympic Coast require an Olympic National Park wilderness during lower tides. permit. Permits can be obtained from the Wilderness Information Centers (WIC) in Port Angeles, Before attempting Forks and Lake Quinault. Camping on the Ozette portion of the coast requires advance reservations. a coast backpack, plan your course FOOD STORAGE All overnight backpackers on the Olympic Coast are now required to carry and by estimating your store their food in hard-sided bear canisters. Canisters can be rented from most WIC locations during hiking time to the Olympic Coast Trail Stats the summer season, and from the Port Angeles WIC year-round. tide table. Missing a DISTANCE: 49 miles The weather on the Olympic Coast can TIDES There are several portions of the Olympic Coast that can only be traversed during low tides. low tide can set you CLIMATE: be just as fickle as the weather in the mountains. back an entire day. Hoh Head: 400 ft. Carry a tide chart for the month you are hiking and a detailed topographic map to safely carry out HIGHEST POINT: Temperatures are usually mild, reaching the mid-70s in your hike. If camping on the beach, be aware of the range of high tides. Always exercise LOWEST POINT: Sea level: 0 ft. summer. Expect rain, wind, fog and high surf. extreme caution HEADLANDS and CREEKS Be prepared for strenuous headland crossings involving the use of steep during crossings. TRIP TIME: 6 to 8 days WILDLIFE: Inland, watch for deer, elk, beavers, black steps, cable ladders and ropes, as well as muddy slogs. Most of the creek crossings require fords. For more info, visit April through November bears and raccoons. Offshore are seals, sea lions, otters Depending on the season’s runoff, you may need to search for safe places to cross. BEST SEASON: nps.gov/olym/ dolphins and whales. In the trees and skies are nearly MAPS: Green Trails 98S, 130S, 163S 100 types of seabirds and raptors. The reward for all this effort? Mile after mile of mind-blowing coastal scenery, tidepools teeming planyourvisit/ PERMITS: Olympic Wilderness Permit with sea creatures, otters playing in the surf, whales spouting offshore and eagles and seabirds tides-and-your- GUIDEBOOK: Backpacking Washington provides gliding overhead. And due to its limited accessibility, you’re not bound to have much company, safety.htm. INFORMATION: nps.gov/olym/planyourvisit/ detailed descriptions of both the north and south allowing you to revel in all that the Olympic Coast has to offer as one of the best hikes in Washington. wilderness-trip planner.htm sections of the Olympic Coast Trail.

From close-in dayhikes to remote section hikes, the Pacific Crest Trail offers something for BITS & PIECES everyone. Try one of these stretches or custom-design a PCT trek of your own.

HIKE: GILLETTE LAKE BACKPACK: BIG HUCKLEBERRY TREK: PACIFIC CREST TRAIL DISTANCE: 5 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 370 ft. DISTANCE: 16 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 4,410 ft. DISTANCE: 67 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 15,120 ft. This short, simple stretch along the PCT For a weekend sampler of the PCT, start This portion of the PCT covers the southern winds through dense forest to the shore of a at the Panther Creek Campground, easily half of what’s commonly known as “Section quiet little lake, ideal for a picnic lunch (you accessible off the Wind River Hwy. Begin by H,” which stretches from the Columbia Columbia River to Indian Heaven just need to ignore the nearby powerlines). climbing eastward under hemlock, red cedar River to White Pass. This section receives Start at the Tamanous Trailhead on SR-14, and fir forest to quickly gain the Cascade much less traffic than other sections of the and take this short spur trail 0.5 mile east to Crest and continue toward Big Huckleberry PCT, making it an ideal choice for avoiding connect to the PCT. Continue north on the Mountain, where a short side trail lets you crowds and enjoying some peace and PCT through shady forest lined with ferns bag the summit. Once the site of an old fire quiet. The elevation variance is moderate and Columbia lilies. The trail passes through lookout, the open, grassy peak offers wide considering the distance, which lets novice he famed Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) stretches 2,650 miles from Mexico to Canada. Here a saddle between two hills before turning views of the South Cascades. Descend to the long-distance hikers find their legs on a in Washington, the last 500-mile section of the PCT skirts volcanic mountains, crosses westward to descend into the forested Big Lava Bed and wind around its western reasonably challenge-free section. The lake basin. A couple of hiker campsites can edge among forested cinder cones. Spend highlight of the stretch is the lake country T glaciated valleys and traverses high alpine passes. Thru-hikers, weekenders and day- Hike by be found near the lakeshore. Keep your the night at the Crest Camp. Have a shuttle in the Indian Heaven Wilderness, which trippers flock to the central sections, guaranteeing a busy trail and crowded campsites. But by ELI BOSCHETTO eyes peeled for bald eagles perched in the car waiting, backtrack or walk FR-65 back to has lots of convenient campsites among a ridgetop trees or drifting overhead. Panther Creek. variety of gemlike forested pools. heading to the southern part of the state, you're likely to find an uncrowded PCT with plenty of Photos by camping in a unique section of Washington's volcanic landscape. TAMI ASARS

For an easier introduction to Pacific Crest Trail hiking that doesn't involve steep mountain passes, Sawtooth TH high ridge traverses and lots of crowds—and is usually accessible earlier in the season—just head to the Columbia River Gorge, where the PCT enters Washington. For almost 100 miles, the WHEN TO HIKE IT: PCT meanders over easy to moderate terrain, through old-growth forest and among a plethora The relatively lower of volcanic features and landmarks. Throw in a good helping of lakes and a bounty of berries elevations of the southern Indian and wildflowers and you have the makings for an exciting weekend or section hike—and a great portion of Washington’s PCT Heaven introduction to the Pacific Crest Trail. make it accessible earlier Wilderness THE TRAIL: From its crossing of the Columbia River over the Bridge of the Gods, the PCT begins and later in the year than an easy entry into Washington's Gifford Pinchot National Forest. The route northward showcases a some of the central and Crest Camp lively woodland of lush ferns and tall trees. After just a few miles, the trail rounds Gillette Lake (see northern alpine areas. In Hike), an ideal short hike for families with kids. The trail continues its course northward, flanking low-snow years (like the one Big Lava Table Mountain and Three Corner Rock before turning eastward to cross the Yacolt Burn State Flow Forest. Following this, the trail begins gaining elevation as it crosses basins and climbs drainages we’re currently having), that PCT Section H Stats to reach the Cascade Crest. Shortly after the trail crosses the Wind River, it heads up Warren Gap, could mean access as early Panther Big DISTANCE: 67 miles (to Sawtooth TH) TRIP TIME: 5 to 7 days where it passes the Panther Creek Campground, a good place for bedding down or starting a as May or June. If hiking in Creek Huckleberry short weekend trip (see Backpack). The trail then proceeds up the Panther Creek Divide and over early summer, be prepared HIGHEST POINT: Indian Heaven at 5,140 ft. MAPS: PCT WA Section H Big Huckleberry Mountain before descending to circuit the western edges of the Big Lava Flow. for mosquitoes—lots of LOWEST POINT: Tamanous TH at 200 ft. PERMITS: NW Forest Pass Continuing northward, the PCT enters the Indian Heaven Wilderness with a climb over Berry Late July through October pcta.org Mountain, followed by a joyful stroll through lake country while winding between Gifford Peak, them! If you save this one BEST SEASON: INFORMATION: East Crater, Bird Mountain and Sawtooth Mountain. Where the trail crosses FR-24, 67 miles from for later summer expect lots CLIMATE: Expect typical Northwest weather in this section of southwest the Columbia River, is a fine place for ending your PCT journey (see Trek). of berries; in early fall, pretty Washington: comfortable summer days with cool evenings. Always be colors. For the latest trail prepared for rain and sudden cold snaps. LOGISTICS: The PCT is easily accessible from SR-14, just west of the Bridge of the Gods. Look for conditions and trip reports WILDLIFE: Watch for deer, elk, black bears and a host of small scurrying the large trailhead parking area opposite the Bonneville Dam and hike the short Tamanous Trail to Bridge of critters. In the trees and skies above, look for bald eagles, ospreys, red- on the PCT, visit wta.org. Gillette the Gods connect. Reach Panther Creek Campground via the Wind River Hwy, north through Carson. Reach Lake tailed hawks and hairy woodpeckers. the Sawtooth Trailhead on FR-24 via SR-141 west through Trout Lake.

22 Washington Trails | Epic Trails | wta.org Washington Trails | Epic Trails | wta.org 23

Don't have four months to knock off the entire 1,230-mile route? Then sample some of the scenic BITS & PIECES variety the Pacific Northwest Trail has to offer on one of these shorter trips. Buff Black

From the Continental Divide Noah Glaude Holly Weiler HIKE IT: Ozette Triangle BACKPACK IT: Whistler Canyon TRAVERSE IT: North Cascades Hiking the Pacific Northwest to the 9.4 miles; 300 feet elevation gain 24 miles; 3,100 feet elevation gain 38 miles; 5,800 feet elevation gain Pacific Ocean National Scenic Trail Explore the rugged Olympic Coast, where South of Oroville, the Whistler Canyon Trail This hike requires two vehicles or an the PNT meets the Pacific Ocean, on this climbs east into a landscape of sagebrush arranged shuttle, but the scenic payoff family-friendly loop trail with plenty of and granite. The trail traverses the west makes it worth the extra effort. Climb to wildlife-spying opportunities. Begin at face of Mount Hull, with its steep, rugged 5,066-foot Hannegan Pass and descend Ozette Lake and head west on a boardwalk. terrain of bluffs, cliffs and canyons. Climbing into the Chilliwack River Basin and a cable- Cross the Ozette River and veer right at the higher, it provides breathtaking views of car crossing over the river. Climb eastward junction, continuing through fern, cedar the Okanogan Valley and the Pasayten towards 5,206-foot Whatcom Pass. Traverse Congress added the 1,230-mile Pacific Northwest Trail amazing Rockies, Purcells, Selkirks, Kettles, Pasayten, North In 2009, and spruce forest. Descend to the beaches Wilderness. Wildlife abound—mountain the Little Beaver Creek drainage, turning (PNT) to the National Trails System. Unlike its more famous cousins, Cascades, Puget Sound islands and the Olympic Peninsula. at Cape Alava and turn south, following the sheep, deer, grouse and occasionally south over 3,600-foot Beaver Pass and the Appalachian Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail, the PNT is an east- Depending on the location, hikers must contend with a variety coastline. Watch for sea life offshore and cougars—and camping can be found at Blue heading down Big Beaver Creek to Ross of weather conditions, from snow and rain to arid heat. Just a west route that begins at Chief Mountain in the northeast corner a variety of seabirds overhead. Tidepools Diamond Lake. Take a side trip to Summit Lake. Finish by heading south to Ross Lake of Glacier National Park and ends at Cape Alava, the westernmost sampling of the remarkable scenery to be experienced along abound. Reach Sand Point and return via Lake and up to the lookout on 4,579-foot Resort, then Ross Dam and SR 20. Numerous point of the continental U.S. Along its way, the PNT crosses three the PNT includes Glacier’s rocky escarpments to Idaho’s granite another boardwalk to the earlier junction. Mount Hull. Return on the new Wild Horse campsites can be found along the route national parks, seven national forests, four wilderness areas and five wilderness, Washington’s remote Salmo-Priest Wilderness to the Carry a tide table on this hike. If tides are Springs Trail. Be watchful for rattlesnakes in from Boundary Camp to Ross Lake. North national scenic areas, while traversing four major mountain ranges. snowy heights of the North Cascades and the mossy halls of high, use the alternate headland trails. summer. Cascades wilderness permit required. Olympic’s old growth—and all points in between. Founded in 1970, it began by linking preexisting trail components in national parks and forests and connecting them with Native As the PNT is still a work in progress, there are several sections American travel routes, logging roads, county and state highways, that remain undeveloped, where navigation is more challenging, GUIDEBOOK: The Pacific Northwest Trail Digest by Tim Youngbluth describes the PNT from OPPOSITE: From the Pacific Northwest Trail at Whatcom flood-control dikes and even cow paths and a ferry ride. The trail requiring suitable pre-planning and proficient navigation skills. The start to finish and helps hikers plan their trips, campsites, permits and resupply points. Pass, the North Cascades spreads out far and wide; A PNT trail marker. Photos by Buff Black was rerouted in 2003 and 2004 to incorporate more established PNT’s particular charm, however, is that hikers can choose the level HISTORY: Pathfinder: Blazing a New Wilderness Trail in Modern America by PNT founder trails and to eliminate the need for some sections of off-trail travel. of adventure and difficulty to suit individual interests—from short Ronald Strickland is a treasure trove of PNT history, community, facts and flavor. BELOW: Backpacker on the PNT at Rock Pass in the Pasayten Wilderness. Photo by Andy Porter Its management is currently shared between the U.S. Forest Service strolls to more strenuous weekends—or the ultimate challenge of TRAIL INFO: Get prepared with maps, guides and other resources with “The Ten Essentials and the nonprofit Pacific Northwest Trail Association. trekking from the Continental Divide to the Pacific Ocean. è for Potential PNT Hikers” at ronstrickland.com/rs/Pacific_Northwest_Trail.html. CANADA Like most long-distance trails, the PNT is used primarily by day Eureka hikers and weekend backpackers; however, every year it attracts Northport Oroville a fair number of end-to-end thru-hikers. They come to see the Mt. Baker Yaak Pasayten Polebridge Glacier Wilderness Metaline Wilderness Salmo-Priest Bonners Ferry Nat'l Park Bellingham Falls MONTANA North Republic Wilderness By Ronald Strickland, Cascades IDAHO with contributions Nat'l Park Concrete WASHINGTON from Jon Knechtel Pacific Northwest Trail Stats and Aaron Theisen Mt. Vernon Oak Omak DISTANCE: 1,230 miles CLIMATE: Be prepared for extreme diversity, from Harbor snow in the Rockies and Cascades, to desert heat in Port HIGHEST POINT: Poorman Mountain, 7,500 ft. the Okanogan, to fog and rain in the Olympics. Angeles Elevation, weather, season, location and Forks Port TRAIL TIP: LOWEST POINT: Pacific Ocean, 0 ft. WILDLIFE: Watch for black and grizzly bears, Townsend trail conditions are key factors to consider when planning a TRIP TIME: Day hikes to long-distance treks mountain sheep, coyotes, wolves, elk, deer, moose, PNT day hike or backpacking trip. The PNT is not like other LaPush golden eagles, kingfishers and cormorants. popular long-distance trails where signs and blazes provide a BEST SEASON: Year-round, depending on section Olympic MAPS: Visit pnt.org to download trail maps as Nat'l Park well-marked and easy-to-follow route. Hiking many sections PERMITS: Varies by area printable PDFs, or as Google Earth or National of the PNT requires detailed maps and good navigation skills. INFORMATION: pnt.org Geographic TOPO files.

There are plenty of trail options in this corner of the Glacier Peak Wilderness for short and long BITS & PIECES adventures. To truly experience the grandeur of the area, plan at least several days.

HIKE: SPIDER MEADOW BACKPACK: HIGH PASS TREK: LOOP w/ IMAGE LAKE DISTANCE: 13 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 1,100 ft. DISTANCE: 26 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 4,500 ft. DISTANCE: 44 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 8,900 ft. If you only have a single day and want to Channel your inner mountain goat on this Plan to spend at least five days tackling sample the splendor of this corner of the steep hike to aptly-named High Pass, and this wilderness loop, as there will be lots Glacier Peak Wilderness, then take a dayhike bask in glorious views of Glacier Peak and of elevation gain to stretch your legs on. to Spider Meadow. Start at the Phelp’s Creek the surrounding mountainscape. Start Spend the first day heading up to Spider Trailhead and head up the old, forested up the Buck Creek Trail from the Trinity Meadow. Camp in the valley or on the mining road. The ascent is very gradual. Trailhead. The route steadily climbs 3,100 ridge above. Cross Spider Gap on day two Cross Box and Chipmunk creeks at 1.5 and feet in 9.6 miles to Buck Creek Pass. Find and find a home near the shore of Lyman Hiking the Spider Meadow–Buck Creek Loop 1.9 miles, respectively. At 3.5 miles, cross a site to dump your gear, then proceed Lake or a view spot on Cloudy Pass. On day Leroy Creek at a junction where a side trail through the camping area to pick up the three, start the big descent to Miner's Creek, climbs steeply toward Mount Maude and High Pass Trail. Continue climbing another but turn west on Miner’s Ridge and camp destinations south and east. Continue up 3 miles and 1,400 feet of elevation, first beside picturesque Image Lake. Return to the valley, now on true trail. Views start to circling around the west side of Liberty Cap, the PCT junction on day four and complete open of Phelp’s Ridge and Red Mountain. then contouring high above Triad Lake, the descent to Miner’s Creek, then up, then Reach the meadow near 6.5 miles and to end at the low saddle that is High Pass. down across Small Creek and back up to explore at will. Return by the same route. Pause, view, breathe. camp on Buck Creek Pass. Finish on day five. ow do you sum up the best of Washington’s wilderness scenery in one hike? by Doug Diekema Lower by Andrea Imler (L, Doug Diekema; Bits: C), Buff Black (R); Buff Black; lower by Opposite Opposite PHOTOS: According to several “If you can only do just one ... ” lists, you head for the Glacier Peak Wilderness SPIDER GLACIER: area’s Spider Meadow and Buck Creek loop. This 36-mile circuit on the east side of Glacier Peak visits Unlike the massive crevasse- sprawling wildflower meadows and high-country lakes, crosses three high passes with stellar views riddled glaciers on Mount of glaciated mountain terrain, and even challenges you with a short, non-technical glacier crossing. Rainier, the small glacier 7,500 ft. Add in an 8-mile side trip and you can visit a historic fire lookout on Miner's Ridge, as well as one of Phelp’s Creek TH Spider SpiderGlacier Gap Lyman LakeCloudy PassSuiattle Pass Image Lake Small CreekBuck Creek Pass/ High Pass approaching Spider Gap more 7,000 ft. High Pass Jct Box CreekChipmunk CreekLeroy CreekSpider Jct Meadow Lyman Glacier Miner’s Ridge/PCTMiner’s Jct Creek Chiwawa River the most picturesque lakes in the state, Image Lake, often perfectly reflecting Glacier Peak. resembles a modest snowfield. 6,500 ft. 6,000 ft. Trinity TH Start at the Phelp’s Creek Trailhead (the common, counter-clockwise approach to the loop) with In late summer conditions, 5,500 ft. a gentle romp up an old, forested mining road. After a few miles the road turns to trail. Around the depending on your comfort 5,000 ft. 6-mile mark you’ll break out into the wide expanse of Spider Meadow, deep-set in the valley below level, it is possible to traverse 4,500 ft. the glacier in hiking boots 4,000 ft. Red Mountain. A popular weekend destination, there are several dispersed campsites to be found 3,500 ft. around the meadow. Continuing to the head of the valley, begin an earnest climb toward Spider with a little assistance from 3,000 ft. Gap and its resident glacier, which can be traversed with a little determination. trekking poles. In early 2,500 ft. 0 mi. 5 mi. 10 mi. 15 mi. 20 mi. 25 mi. 30 mi. 36 mi. summer, or during cooler From the Gap, descend cross-country (may be icy) to the shore of milky-blue Upper Lyman Lake, seasons, the glacier—and the below Lyman Glacier and Chiwawa Mountain. Here, pick up the trail again and descend to pretty descent on the other side of Spider Meadow-Buck Creek Loop Stats Lyman Lake, with several campsites. An optional 2-mile side-trip contours the west side of Lyman the Gap—may be icy. In this Lake to Lyman Falls. From the lake, ascend westward over 6,450-foot Cloudy Pass and 6,000-foot case, crampons and an ice DISTANCE: 36-mile loop + side-trip options CLIMATE: Summer days are typically mild to warm, Suiattle Pass. Be prepared for views that will blow your Smartwools off. Below the passes, you have cooling as you gain elevation; overnights can be the option to side-trip to Miner’s Ridge and Image Lake. Since you’re here, you should do them; axe (and knowing how to use HIGHEST POINT: Spider Gap at 7,100 ft. them) are advised. cold to freezing. Pack layers, and be prepared for build an extra day into your itinerary. LOWEST POINT: Trinity Trailhead at 2,850 ft. sun, rain, snow and fog at any time. The back side of the loop takes a short jaunt on the Pacific Crest Trail, then roller-coasters up, TRIP TIME: 4 to 6 days WILDLIFE: Watch for the usual mountain-dwellers: down, up through a couple of deep river valleys before the final climb to 5,900-foot Buck Creek BEST SEASON: August through October deer, mountain goats, marmots, squirrels and pikas. Pass, below Flower Dome, Helmet Butte and Liberty Cap. There are campsites near the pass. If you Bears have been known to frequent the Lyman have even more time, there are side trip options to Flower Dome, or to spectacular High Pass. MAPS: Green Trails 112, 113 Lake area, so practice proper food storage. PERMITS: NW Forest Pass for trailhead parking The final stretch is a winding descent along Buck Creek, in the shadow of Buck Mountain. When GUIDEBOOK: Backpacking Washington by Douglas you finish at the Trinity Trailhead, you will have a 3-mile road walk back to your car. You can spend INFORMATION: www.fs.usda.gov/activity/ Lorain provides a detailed description of the Spider those miles comparing every other hike you've done to this one. okawen/recreation/hiking Meadow–Buck Creek loop trail.

Set your hiking boots to any section of the William O. Douglas Trail and experience your own BITS & PIECES outdoors legacy, from Yakima's shrub-steppe to Mount Rainier's rainforest.

William O. Douglas HIKE IT: Box Spring Canyon BACKPACK IT: WOD Wilderness SECTION HIKE: End to End 9.5 miles; 900 foot elevation gain 26 miles (one-way); 3,600 foot elevation gain Mileage and elevation vary From the Snow Mountain Ranch parking lot This 2- to 3-day backpack traverses the Given the wide climatic range over the route walk west to Sunset Road, then up Sunset entire William O. Douglas Wilderness section of the trail and the scarcity of campsites with Celebrate the legacy of the longest-serving Supreme Court to a gate. Follow an old jeep road west to of the trail. From the Sand Ridge trailhead water, all but the wilderness section of the Justice, an environmental activist and Yakima’s most prominent another fence. Continue uphill to the corner on US 12, follow the Sand Ridge and route is probably best done as a series of son on this 80-mile trek from Yakima to Mount Rainier. and then north to pick up the jeep road Shellrock Lake Trails 6 miles to a junction day hikes. The easterly shrub-steppe section, again. As you climb, balsamroot and lupine with the Pacific Crest Trail, then follow the from Cowiche Canyon to Box Spring Canyon, become profuse and the views become PCT northwest past Snow Lake, descending is best hiked in spring and fall, with winter more expansive: Mount Cleman, Cowiche gently to the headwaters of the Bumping also a possibility. The central section, Divide Mountain, the agricultural lands around River at Fish Lake. From here, climb 1,500 Ridge to Tieton Basin, as well as the lower Approximately 80 miles long, the William route. Hikers will walk past orchards and vineyards Cowiche and Tieton and Yakima Valley in feet past Crag Lake to the junction with the Laughingwater Creek Trail, is best done SEASON TIP: O. Douglas Trail links existing trails and roads from and along old wagon roads, railroad beds and the distance. When the road levels, watch Laughingwater Creek Trail and the national in late spring (depending on snowpack), Yakima to Mount Rainier National Park. Traveling irrigation ditch banks. They will pass the restored for another jeep road heading southeast park boundary. Descend the Laughingwater summer and fall, with winter skiing or Fall is one of the best westward, it passes through Cowiche Canyon and Jump-off Joe Lookout, one of the few lookouts (sharply left). Follow this road to Box Spring, Creek Trail 8 miles past Three Lakes to the snowshoeing an option. The wilderness times to hike the trail, over Cowiche Mountain to Divide Ridge and Jump- still standing—a reminder of a time when the situated in a grove of Garry oaks, and the trailhead on SR 123. Possible campsites are section is best in midsummer and fall. but hikers should off Joe Lookout, then through the Tieton Basin and forests were monitored for fires from mountaintops cliffs at the head of Box Spring Canyon. plentiful beyond Shellrock Lake. be aware that most into the William O. Douglas Wilderness. Turning rather than from airplanes—and walk a portion of the route is open northwest, the route climbs the Sand Ridge and of the Pacific Crest Trail. And they will travel for to hunting. Divide Shellrock Lake Trails, then follows the Pacific Crest several miles on the ancient Cowlitz Trail, used for Ridge and the Tieton Trail to Mount Rainier National Park, finishing down generations as the primary trade route across the William O. Douglas Trail Stats Basin, in particular, Laughingwater Creek to Ohanapecosh. Cascades for the Yakama and Upper Cowlitz peoples. are heavily used by Along the way the trail passes many sites that The natural settings along the route of the DISTANCE: Approx. 80 miles WEATHER: Extremely variable; It can be elk and deer hunters. appear in Douglas’s writings: the hillside at Selah trail are rich as well. Due to its location in the rain sunny and warm in Cowiche Canyon, raining ELEVATION GAIN/LOSS: 9,500 ft. in Tieton Basin and snowing at Cowlitz Pass. Hikers should be Gap that he repeatedly climbed to strengthen shadow of the Cascades, and significant changes Laughingwater Jct, 5,700 ft. Be prepared. aware of the various his legs after being crippled by polio, Kloochman in elevation, the route showcases environmental HIGHEST POINT: hunting seasons, wear Rock where as a teenager he made the harrowing and biological diversity as great as any to be found LOWEST POINT: Yakima, 1,100 ft. TRAILHEADS: Davis High School; Yakima bright colors and climb described in the final chapter of Of Men and in the country over a comparable distance. From Greenway at 16th Ave. or Myron Lake; TRIP TIME: 4 to 6 days avoid busy hunting Mountains, Cowlitz Pass where he camped with a the arid shrub-steppe around Yakima, the route Cowiche Canyon, east or west; Rocky Top; Snow Mountain Ranch; FS Road 1302 (Divide weekends. sheepherder during the outbreak of World War I, and traverses 12 distinct ecosystems as it travels upward BEST SEASON: Summer and Fall through progressively wetter forest and meadow Ridge); Sand Ridge; Laughingwater Creek Fish Lake at the headwaters of the Bumping River, PERMITS: Varies by trailhead among others. to the alpine zone before descending into the lush MAPS: Green Trails: Tieton 305, Rimrock 304, rainforest of Ohanapecosh Valley—all offering hikers INFORMATION: williamodouglastrail.org White Pass 303, Bumping Lake 271, Mount The trail celebrates not only the legacy of Douglas, a unique experience on Washington’s newest long- cowichecanyon.org Rainier East 270 OHANAPECOSH but also that of the rich human heritage along the distance trail.

The ultimate goal for the William O. Douglas Heritage Trail is National Heritage Trail status, but the trail is still Hike & photos a work in progress and there are two significant gaps for would-be thru-hikers. The first is from the end of the SPIRAL by David Hagen Yakima Greenway at 40th Street and Fruitvale Boulevard to the east end of the Cowiche Canyon Trail, requiring BUTTE JUMP OFF McDANIEL a jaunt through the Fred Meyer shopping complex and then a walk along the shoulder of Powerhouse and RIMROCK LAKE LOOKOUT CANYON Cowiche Canyon Roads to the Cowiche Canyon trailhead. The second gap is from Long Lake, below Jump-off Joe COWICHE CANYON Lookout, and through the Tieton Basin to the Sand Ridge trailhead. The route will eventually tie together existing CLEAR LAKE YAKIMA and abandoned U.S. Forest Service roads and trails, but this portion of the route has not yet been established or marked. Currently thru-hikers need to use a map to devise their own route through the basin.

5028 Washington Washington Trails Trails | | Epic May+Jun Trails 2013| wta.org | wta.org WashingtonWashington Trails Trails| May+Jun | Epic 2013 Trails | wta.org| wta.org 51 29 Try one of these smaller sections as a day hike or weekend backpack to get into some of the best Cowlitz Divide, by Tami Asars BITS & PIECES wilderness Mount Rainier has to offer. Or, complete the entire circuit over multiple trips.

Janelle Walker Tami Asars Tami Asars

DAY HIKE: Summerland BACKPACK: Klapatche Park SECTION HIKE: The Mountain By 8.6 miles; elevation gain 1,950’ 21.4 miles; elevation gain 3,300’ 34, 22, 35 miles; elevation gain varies Tami Asars Park at the Fryingpan Creek Trailhead near Experience one of the best wilderness Split the Wonderland into bite-size pieces the White River entrance. The trail gently camps on the Wonderland by sneaking and tackle it over several seasons. First, do rolls through old-growth forest below the in the back way! From the end of the the challenging west side, from Longmire giant shoulders of Goat Island Mountain. Westside Road, walk the road-turned- to Mowich Lake (34 miles). You'll visit the Cross Fryingpan Creek and switchback up trail for 8 miles to the St. Andrews Creek wildflower meadows of Indian Henry’s to Summerland’s wide meadows. Views Trailhead. From there, it’s a 2.6-mile jaunt Hunting Grounds and Sunset Park’s of Mount Rainier and Little Tahoma are to connect to the Wonderland and just a Golden Lakes. Next, hike Mowich Lake hrough a wispy-clouded late August sky I set out to tackle the Wonderland—again. PERMIT TIP: Get your permit breathtaking as marmots scurry about short distance farther to Klapatche Park. to the Sunrise Visitor Center (22 miles). Looping the many glaciers, river valleys and high alpine meadows of Rainier’s back- reservation requests in between underfoot. To adventure even farther, While there, get the Wonderland Zen Skirt the toe of the Carbon Glacier before country was no stranger to me. I’d hiked the beckoning beauty so many times, I’d nearly March 15 and April 1 for the best the Wonderland continues climbing to by wandering down the trail towards traversing the wildlife safari of Berkeley lost count. This time, I’d set out towing camera gear in an effort to capture some photos for odds of getting your perfect Panhandle Gap, the trail’s highest point St. Andrews Park, experience the eye- Park. Finish the circuit from Sunrise to my book, Hiking the Wonderland Trail. As I walked, I silently wondered what it was about itinerary. For best results, create (6,800 feet). Here, enter alpine tundra, popping scenery at the base of the Longmire (35 miles). See the spectacular often snow-covered year round, and Tahoma Glacier or just relax in the sun on east side, including Summerland, the this place that made it so enchanting for me, and for the thousands that hike it each year. three different itinerary choices; watch for mountain goats. the shores of St. Andrews Lake. Panhandle Gap and Indian Bar. vary the starting date, or start Perhaps the best way to describe the Wonderland Trail is “magical.” It’s as if a surreal spell has been cast upon the trail’s scenery, immersing hikers in rich and powerful beauty with nearly from different trailheads. When every step and turn. Fragrant flowered meadows, angry and disturbed river valleys, abundant submitting your reservation DIRECTION: The most popular way is clockwise simply because the uphills are less steep. request, indicate your choices wildlife, historic backcountry patrol cabins and two Indiana Jones-style suspension bridges—all TRAINING: Get in Wonderland Trail shape by doing repetitive local hikes. Train with the same set to the backdrop of the highest volcano in Washington state and the largest single-peak clearly on the form. clothing, gear and trail foods to gauge what works best for your optimal performance. glacier system in the contiguous U.S. But it’s more than a pretty postcard. PERMITS: Mount Rainier National Park requires overnight hikers to preselect designated back- The flip side of the Wonderland’s spell could be the daily challenge of elevation gains and country destinations. Wilderness camps have 1–12 sites, a rustic privy and a nearby water source. losses, ascending and descending 22,000 feet of rugged country. Fortunately, the eye candy WEATHER: Mount Rainier is known for making its own weather systems. Be prepared and plan of Mount Rainier’s backcountry soothes the aches and pains and more than makes up for the for anything, including the possibility of snow, even in midsummer. Panhandle Gap, by Tami Asars demanding days with natural artistry and allure. GUIDEBOOK: Pick up Hiking the Wonderland Trail, by Tami Asars (mountaineersbooks.org). Those who have hiked it can attest that being nose to nose with such a behemoth mountain HOT SHOWER & COMFY BED: If you plan to start your trip at a trailhead other than Longmire, for consecutive days leaves you feeling distinctly euphoric. The mountain folds you into its you could schedule a night at the National Park Inn halfway through your journey. strong trance and enraptures you with unique natural features. How rare to stand at melting toes of giant rivers of ice and feel the blast of cold air and nature’s strength. What wonder to encounter creatures like the hoary marmots near Summerland, the black bears of Mystic Lake, Wonderland Trail Stats the mountain goats near the Panhandle Gap and the Clark’s nutcrackers and golden-mantled ground squirrels that wink at you when they hear the rustle of a food bag. All of this followed by YEAR CREATED: 1915 TRAILHEADS: Longmire, Sunrise, ghost trees so large that you can stand tall inside their great roots. Magic indeed! Mowich Lake, White River Campground, DISTANCE: Approximately 93 miles Fryingpan Creek, Box Canyon From the “wow, look at that!” moments to the solitude of quiet breaks in colorful meadows, 22,000 feet the Wonderland is one of the most beloved and highly recommended trails in the country. Even ELEVATION GAIN/LOSS: CAMPS: 20 (Inc. White River & Mowich) Klapatche Park, after hiking it nine times, I am still finding magic and comfort in the large arms of The Mountain. 9-12 days by Doug Diekema AVERAGE TRIP TIME: PATROL CABINS: Indian Henry’s, Golden HIGHEST POINT: Panhandle Gap–6,800' Lakes, Mowich, Mystic, White River

7,000’ Klapatche Park Mystic Lake Summerland COMMON WILDLIFE: squirrels, hoary Mowich Lake LOWEST POINT: Ipsut Creek–2,320 feet 6,000’ Devil's Dream marmots, gray jays, Clark’s nutcrackers, Sunrise 5,000’ Indian Bar BEST SEASON: Late July to September mountain goats, black bears 4,000’ Golden Lakes 3,000’ Longmire Ipsut Creek Nickel Creek Paradise River PERMIT OPENING: March 15 nps.gov/mora Wonderland Map 269S: Mount Rainier Trails Green 2,000’ INFORMATION: 0 mi. 10 mi. 20 mi. 30 mi. 40 mi. 50 mi. 60 mi. 70 mi. 80 mi. 90 mi. 93 mi.

Protect 5WTA is your voice for trails. When you head out to hike, you shouldn’t be stopped by a closed gate. WTA advocates on your behalf for increasing federal and state trail funding, improving 1recreational road access and keeping our state parks open. Preserve WTA maintains the trails you love to hike. WTA fields the largest statewide volunteer trail maintenance program in the country. In 2013, WTA mobilized nearly 3,400 volunteers, 900 of them youth and teens, on 190 trails across the state, cutting 2back brush, building rock walls, fixing broken bridges and building new trails for you to hike.

Hike WTA helps plan your next adventure. Find inspiration, ideas and practical advice in WTA’s bi-monthly magazine, Washington Trails, and on our website. More than 3,000 hiking guide entries and 7,500 Trip Reports each year make wta.org the go-to place 3to find your next hike. Connect When you join WTA, you’ll be part of a dynamic hiking community. WTA members share a love of hiking, strengthening the community each time we meet on a trail, volunteer or share advice online. WTA also helps families get 4outside where kids can connect with nature. Learn Benefits included in your WTA WTA provides what you need to know to go hiking, from MEMBERSHIP what passes are required to how to create a first aid kit to planning a hiking or backpacking trip on wta.org. Download our Trailblazer  A one-year subscription to Washington Trails app and explore trail conditions and Trip Reports on the go. magazine.  Subscription to Trail News, a monthly email 5 newsletter; plus timely alerts about trails.  Invititations to WTA events.  Discounts on WTA Volunteer Vacations and Youth Become a WTA Volunteer Vacations.  WTA member window decal. member today!  And for a limited time, the Washington Wildflowers wta.org/join field guide. Yours FREEPhoto* at any by membership Paul Bestock level. For more information, visit wta.org.

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