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EPR Systems and New Business Models. Reuse And TemaNord 2014:539 TemaNord Ved Stranden 18 DK-1061 Copenhagen K www.norden.org EPR systems and new business models Reuse and recycling of textiles in the Nordic region EPR systems and new business models This report is the primary outcome from Part I of the project “An extended producer responsibility (EPR) system and new business models to increase reuse and recycling of textiles in the Nordic region” initiated by the Nordic Waste Group (NAG). The report for Part 2 will be published in December 2014. This report summarizes the work carried out in 2013 and is presented in three sub-reports: • Survey of existing EPR-systems and business models – Relevant types of EPR models and business models with potential for increasing recycling and reuse of textiles are identified and briefly described. • Evaluation of eight EPR-systems and business models – Eight of the models identified in Report 1 are described in more detail, including a first qualitative evaluation. • Costs and benefits of EPR-systems and two business models – Four of the eight models described and qualitatively evaluated in Report 2 are selected for a more quantitative evaluation of costs and benefits. The report is part of the Nordic Prime Ministers’ green growth initiative: “The Nordic Region – leading in green growth.” Read more in the web magazine “Green Growth the Nordic Way” at www.norden.org/ greengrowth TemaNord 2014:539 ISBN 978-92-893-2796-1 ISBN 978-92-893-2797-8 (EPUB) ISSN 0908-6692 TN2014539 omslag.indd 1 04-06-2014 11:34:40 EPR systems and new business models Reuse and recycling of textiles in the Nordic region David Watson, Nikola Kiørboe, David Palm, Haben Tekie, Steve Harris, Tomas Ekvall, Thomas Lindhqvist and Kari-Ann Lyng TemaNord 2014:539 EPR systems and new business models Reuse and recycling of textiles in the Nordic region David Watson, Nikola Kiørboe, David Palm, Haben Tekie, Steve Harris, Tomas Ekvall, Thomas Lindhqvist and Kari-Ann Lyng ISBN 978-92-893-2796-1 ISBN 978-92-893-2797-8 (EPUB) http://dx.doi.org/10.6027/TN2014-539 TemaNord 2014:539 ISSN 0908-6692 © Nordic Council of Ministers 2014 Layout: Hanne Lebech Cover photo: Signelements This publication has been published with financial support by the Nordic Council of Ministers. However, the contents of this publication do not necessarily reflect the views, policies or recom- mendations of the Nordic Council of Ministers. www.norden.org/en/publications Nordic co-operation Nordic co-operation is one of the world’s most extensive forms of regional collaboration, involv- ing Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway, Sweden, and the Faroe Islands, Greenland, and Åland. Nordic co-operation has firm traditions in politics, the economy, and culture. It plays an im- portant role in European and international collaboration, and aims at creating a strong Nordic community in a strong Europe. Nordic co-operation seeks to safeguard Nordic and regional interests and principles in the global community. Common Nordic values help the region solidify its position as one of the world’s most innovative and competitive. Nordic Council of Ministers Ved Stranden 18 DK-1061 Copenhagen K Phone (+45) 3396 0200 www.norden.org Content An EPR system and new business models to increase reuse and recycling of textiles in the Nordic region Summary of 2013 reports ............................................................................................................. 7 1. Key Messages.................................................................................................................................... 9 2. Overview ......................................................................................................................................... 11 3. Summary of 1st Report Survey of existing EPR-systems and business models which can increase reuse and recycling of textiles .......................................... 15 4. Summary of 2nd Report Evaluation of eight EPR-systems and business models which can increase reuse and recycling of textiles ................................................ 19 5. Summary of 3rd Report Costs and benefits of EPR-systems and two business models for reuse and recycling of textiles ........................................................ 23 1st Report: Survey of existing EPR-systems and business models which can increase reuse and recycling of textiles ............................................................................... 29 1. Key Messages................................................................................................................................. 31 2. Executive Summary .................................................................................................................... 33 3. Introduction and aim .................................................................................................................. 37 4. Scope of models to be considered in review ...................................................................... 39 4.1 Extended Producer Responsibility ........................................................................... 39 4.2 Types of EPR-schemes .................................................................................................. 41 4.3 Types of Business Models ............................................................................................ 44 5. Method for collection of information.................................................................................... 47 6. Existing EPR-models for textiles ........................................................................................... 49 6.1 Mandatory EPR-scheme ............................................................................................... 49 6.2 Voluntary and individual EPR-schemes ................................................................. 53 6.3 Voluntary and collective EPR-schemes .................................................................. 56 6.4 Existing EPR-schemes in the Nordic countries .................................................... 56 7. Business Models to increase reuse and recycling ............................................................ 59 7.1 Product take-back schemes – producers ............................................................... 59 7.2 Reuse and resell – producers ..................................................................................... 64 7.3 Reuse and resell – other actors.................................................................................. 66 7.4 Hire, leasing and borrowing – producers .............................................................. 68 7.5 Hire, leasing and borrowing – other actors........................................................... 69 7.6 Long life – producers ..................................................................................................... 71 7.7 Long life – other actors ................................................................................................. 74 7.8 Re-design – producers .................................................................................................. 74 7.9 Re-design – other actors .............................................................................................. 75 8. Conclusion ...................................................................................................................................... 77 9. References ...................................................................................................................................... 79 10. Sammenfatning ............................................................................................................................. 83 2nd Report: Evaluation of eight EPR-systems and business models which can increase reuse and recycling of textiles ............................................................................... 87 1. Key Messages ................................................................................................................................ 89 2. Executive Summary .................................................................................................................... 91 3. Introduction and approach ...................................................................................................... 95 3.1 Selection of models ........................................................................................................ 96 3.2 Evaluation approach ..................................................................................................... 97 4. Fact Sheets on systems and models .................................................................................... 101 4.1 Fact Sheet 1: Mandatory EPR schemes ................................................................. 101 4.2 Fact Sheet 2: Voluntary individual EP................................................................... 108 4.3 Fact sheet 3: In-store collection with a partner ................................................ 113 4.4 Fact Sheet 4: Leasing of own brand ....................................................................... 118 4.5 Fact Sheet 5: Resell of used own brand ................................................................ 123 4.6 Fact Sheet 6: Clothing libraries ............................................................................... 128 4.7 Fact Sheet 7: Repair and fitting ............................................................................... 133 4.8 Fact Sheet 8: Luxury second hand shops ............................................................
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