EASTERNEASTERN AIRWAYSAIRWAYS IN-FLIGHTIN-FLIGHT

3939 | | Spring Spring 2012 2012

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CONTENTS CONTENTS

14 GLASGOW 18 VERA 28 JURA

REGULARS COMPETITIONS FEATURES 07 EASTERN AIRWAYS NEWS 31 PUZZLE PAGE 14 CITY OF CULTURE Everything that’s happening Solve the puzzle and you could Glasgow’s reputation as a cultural around the Eastern Airways win a bottle of English whisky giant is as impressive as ever network right now 18 BRENDA BLETHYN 13 LATEST GADGETS TV detective admires Miss Great gifts and advanced apps for Marple... people on the move 21 17 BITTER EXPERIENCE Eurovision hits the Caspian city Alastair Gilmour champions the great British pub 22 SOUTH DOWNS The low-down on Britain’s 32 EXPLORATION EXPRESS: newest National Park WENSLEYDALE There’s more than cheese in them 26 REVIEWS thar hills and dales Books really do mean big business for one Australian 36 BARE ESSENTIALS 49 DEVONSHIRE HOTELS publisher Eastern Airways’ network map, Win a luxury two-night break in passenger information and the Yorkshire Dales 28 MYSTERY LOCATION destination guides The island of Jura and its whisky get the creative juices flowing for 46 ESSENTIAL GUIDE: SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT crime novelist Stuart MacBride NATIONAL PARKS Destination All within easy reach of our DESTINATION Eastern Airways In-flight Magazine New Year 2012 34 BAD LANGUAGE All-Energy 2012 ALL-ENERGYA SUPPLEMENT PRODUCED FOR EASTERN AIRWAYS IN ASSOCIATION WITH ALL-ENERGY 2012 destinations Translation’s loss is humour’s gain 50 THE LAST WORD Fish are not as wet as one might think, says Harry Pearson RENEWABLES LOW-DOWN ON THE MUST-ATTEND EVENT

Fly easternairways.com 23-24 MAY 2012, ABERDEEN, UK i

Eastern Airways in-flight magazine is published © March 2012. All rights reserved. No part of this Eastern Airways, Schiphol House, Humberside for Eastern Airways by Gravity Magazines, Abbey magazine may be reproduced by any means, without International Airport, Kirmington, North Lincolnshire Business Centre, Abbey Road, Pity Me, Durham, prior written permission of the copyright owners. DN39 6YH DH1 5JZ Although every effort has been made to ensure the Communications Manager: Darren Roberts

www.gravity-consulting.com accuracy of the information in this magazine, neither e-mail: [email protected] the publisher, nor Eastern Airways can accept any Telephone: + 44 (0)8703 669669 Telephone: +44 (0)191 383 2838 liability for errors or omissions. Reservations: + 44 (0)8703 669100 unded. Publisher: Stan Abbott www.easternairways.com Fo Design: Barbara Allen ISSN: 2044-7124 For magazine comments: by Advertising: Liz Reekie Previously known as e-magazine, ISSN 1477-3031. [email protected] Telephone: +44 (0) 7563 796103 cover e-mail: [email protected] Print: Buxton Press

Front 5 Descaling. Decontamination. Delivered like never before.

April 2012 sees the opening of the efficient removal of NORM scale from most advanced NORM descaling and your tubulars and other equipment, with decontamination facility in the UK. everything being carried out within the secure confines of this major new facility. Based in Aberdeen, NORM Solutions is a collaboration between Enviroco Uniquely, we are also able to handle Limited and John Lawrie Group, purpose your NORM contaminated sludges -built to support the UK’s exploration, and sands. production and decommissioning activities. Call NORM Solutions on 01224 285092 to find out more. This new, fully enclosed, multi-million Bringing together the unique skills of pound facility incorporates cutting edge We’re sure it’ll change the way you process equipment for the safe and view your descaling options. and NEWS FROM EASTERN AIRWAYS DESTINATIONS EASTERN AIRWAYS NEWS EASTERN to trained Cabin service, including individual Airport. charter range year, Celebrating service to developing (BACA) the Best airline, The private sports companies, corporate enhanced Airways, Private ANNIVERSARY EASTERN AIRWAYS NEW CHARTER PRODUCT AT YOUR SERVICE Eastern Pictured

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ALL OF SCOTLAND IN YOUR HAND Welcome to Scotland claims to be GADGETS the most technologically advanced tourism app in Europe and is based on Landmark Press’s successful LATEST website of the same name. The new app uses augmented reality, pointing technology, GPS and interactive maps to deliver detailed information on just about anything CHARMING GIFTS TO the visitor might want to know. SEND THEM PACKING Launching the app, Fergus Ewing, Scarlett Jewellery has introduced Scottish Government Minister for a new gift for adventurers and gap Energy, Enterprise and Tourism, year travellers. A contemporary St pictured right, said: “This app is an Christopher, the Traveller Charm is excellent way of getting the most designed to appeal to those looking up to date and relevant information for an unusual present for all modern- to visitors, helping them make the day explorers. Made from hallmarked most of their time in Scotland.” sterling silver, the Traveller Charm Available from ITunes and Android retails for £55. Market.

It can be worn on a bracelet or necklace or fit onto the drawstring inside a rucksack and features four engraved symbols. The fifth side can be custom engraved. Brighton-based GET UP AND GO Scarlett designer Sarah Fenton says she has seen a surge of customers requesting a precious gift for those Must-have gadgets and apps for people on the go embarking on overseas adventures. www.scarlettjewellery.com

ALL CLANS GATHERED IN ONE SMALL PLACE ABS FAB ScotClans has launched TO GO The Scottish Clans app, a The AB MXR, comprehensive guide to the history by Joanna of more than 350 clans and dubbed Kabbani, claims “a little piece of Scotland in your to be the quick pocket”. Read your clan history, way to perfect abs for see your clan tartan and crest those who travel regularly and find out your clan’s ancestral and want to work out homeland. Using the built-in while on the go. The 1kg registration function, the app will model is light enough to be able to build up a picture of fit into your suitcase and Scottish migration around the world, “just five minutes every in an ambitious attempt to map the day for five weeks will lead Scottish diaspora and show the to definition as well as worldwide influence of Scotland’s protecting your back and great clans. Available for iPhones neck”. and iPads via the ITunes store. www.ab-mxr.com

n Vyke, the UK-based voice-over- n The 12N app is a nifty travelling the-internet provider, has launched companion that enables you to a new version of its Vyke app translate numbers and currencies for smartphones to simplify the on your iPhone, iPad or Android reduction or avoidance of roaming – and practise writing, hearing, charges when users are away from understanding and speaking numbers home. Available free from m.vyke. in 120 languages. Available through com and Android Market. iTunes and Android stores. Glasgow School of Art Library designed 14 by Charles Rennie Mackintosh FEATURE GLASGOW: LIVING THE LEGACY

It’s nearly 30 years since Scotland’s largest city provided the blueprint for urban reinvention in the UK. And studies and statistics show that Glasgow’s cultural DESTINATION legacy and its impact on the visitor economy remains as strong as ever, 21 years after it was Europe’s Capital of Culture.

The most successful city campaigns The number of live performances – have been driven from the bottom music, theatre and dance – has risen – proud citizens buying into the 82 per cent since 1992, equating to aspiration have been the bedrock of an average of nine live performances the most successful transformations. every day. The figures make Glasgow’s And that goes right back to the 1970s present-day cultural offer the most and I ♥ NY. significant in the UK outside London.

But it is Glasgow and Barcelona that In the words of Councillor Gordon the academics turn to to illustrate how Matheson, Leader of Glasgow City a powerful message, coupled with Council and Chair of Glasgow City investment, can take a city to a new Trongate Marketing Bureau: “Creativity and place. culture are intrinsically linked. From the renowned Glasgow School of Art Glasgow and Barcelona shared a rich RESEARCH SHOWS and our vibrant, cutting-edge music cultural and architectural heritage but and literary scenes to our outstanding the fortunes of Glasgow in particular THAT GLASGOW style credentials, world-class were mired in a reputation forged from museums, art galleries, festivals and stereotypes of hard drinking, tenement IS SCOTLAND’S major events; the city is packed with slum housing and shipyards. talented people doing inspirational CREATIVE things.” When the Glasgow’s Miles Better campaign was rolled out in 1983 it POWERHOUSE, Glasgow’s museums are the most was just the first step in a process of visited in the UK outside London reinvention whose pivotal moment PRODUCING and contain huge collections of came when it was named the UK’s international significance. Kelvingrove first European Capital of Culture in ARTISTIC AND Art Gallery and Museum is Scotland’s 1990. number one free attraction, boasting CULTURAL WORK 22 state-of-the-art galleries displaying Crucially, the evidence now shows an astonishing 8,000 objects, while that the city did not slip back after that THAT IS CRUCIAL Glasgow’s Gallery of Modern Art and continues to use its cultural base (GoMA) is the most visited modern art as driver for both its reputation and gallery in Scotland. business credentials. TO THE COUNTRY’S ECONOMY. Zaha Hadid’s iconic new Riverside Research commissioned by Glasgow Museum, which opened in June, City Council, Glasgow Life and is a stunning building and a fitting has gone from strength to strength Creative Scotland shows that Glasgow home for the city’s world-class and even surpassed the peaks of the is Scotland’s creative powerhouse, transport collection and shipbuilding 1990s. producing artistic and cultural legacy. The £74 million design work that is crucial to the country’s reflects the internationally-renowned It shows that Glasgow has the economy. architect’s dramatic interpretation greatest concentration of creative of the collection. The museum has The Glasgow Cultural Statistics industries in Scotland, with more than welcomed more than 800,000 visitors Digest, compiled by independent 5,000 people employed in the cultural in its first five months of opening. analyst John Myerscough, comes 21 sector directly and more than 25,000 years after his original study into the employed more widely in the arts and The city is home to Scotland’s national impact of the city being European creative industries – a 43 per cent performing arts organisations – the Capital of Culture in 1990. rise in jobs in the city’s cultural sector Royal Scottish National Orchestra, since 1993 and a contribution of seven National Theatre of Scotland, Scottish The report finds that over the past two per cent to the city’s total employment Opera and Scottish Ballet – alongside decades, the cultural life of Glasgow today. >> Expressions at Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum

other national organisations including and Tramway on Glasgow’s South The city’s attractiveness to tourists has the BBC Scottish Symphony Orchestra, Side are just some of the cutting-edge been boosted with significant investment National Youth Orchestra of Scotland, venues. in the Riverside Museum, as well as the the Royal Conservatoire of Scotland National Indoor Sports Arena (NISA) and (formerly the Royal Scottish Academy Foundation at The Lighthouse in the Sir Chris Hoy Velodrome Precinct. of Music and Drama) and the Scottish Mitchell Lane is Glasgow’s newest Work continues on the new Scottish Ensemble. cultural attraction. Opened in August, Hydro Arena – a world-class purpose- it tells the story of the city and its built entertainment arena located on This has been further reinforced by people in an audio-visual presentation the campus of the Scottish Exhibition + Glasgow being awarded the accolade of alongside interactive panoramas of the Conference Centre (SECC). UNESCO City of Music and appointed city, aerial views and key figures who to its Creative Cities Network, which feature in Glasgow past and present. With a seating capacity of 12,000, The acknowledges Glasgow’s rich and varied The Foundation Cube takes you on a Hydro will open in spring 2013 and will musical heritage, its vibrancy and its role journey from the Ice Age to the 2014 host national and international music as a world player in music. Commonwealth Games in 15 minutes talent as well as global entertainment on a 10ft screen viewed from a raised and sporting events, positioning it The city hosts an average of 130 music platform. alongside such iconic venues as New events each week (more than any other York’s Madison Square Gardens and The Scottish city) and it is estimated that Meanwhile, work continues in preparation O2 in London. music businesses generate some £75 for welcoming the Commonwealth Games million a year for Glasgow’s economy. in 2014, with 700 new hotel beds added Councillor Matheson added: “In the last Glasgow’s music scene stretches across in the last two years, and a 210-room few years, the world’s top travel guides the whole spectrum from contemporary Premier Inn – the city’s fourth – scheduled have consistently ranked Glasgow as and classical to Celtic and Country. Its to open in August. a destination to visit and a place to live venues are equally varied and include and work; highlighting the city’s warmth, King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut (consistently style and energy, which is great news Glasgow has a rich musical heritage voted the top live music venue in the both in terms of the economic benefit UK), the Barrowlands, O2 Academy, the and the heightening of our global profile. Scottish Exhibition + Conference Centre However, we take nothing for granted (SECC), Glasgow Royal Concert Halls and we know that the challenge is to and many pub and clubs throughout the continue to build on Glasgow’s success.” city.

Innovative art spaces, such as Trongate www.seeglasgow.com 103 and The Briggait in the heart of the Merchant City; the Centre for Eastern Airways flies to Glasgow direct 16 Contemporary Art on Sauchiehall Street from Stavanger BITTER EXPERIENCEwith Alastair Gilmour

HERE’SNorway TO THE GREAT BRITISH PUB Apart from its cultural importance where else is a journalist going to find a story?

When the news broke that for the first you can have a drink; the pub is the that gin and tonic right now while it’s time there were now more super- meeting place, the social hub, the sharp and fizzy else she’ll be in the markets and convenience stores than cultural exchange, the pre-concert sort of mood that even Gerard pubs in this country, it was a shivers- venue, the post-match sorrow- Depardieu couldn’t drag her out of running-down-the-spine moment. drowner, the lunch provider, the early- even if he were to walk through that doors stiffener, the wanna-be-alone door at this very moment and sweep Today we have 54,818 pubs and refuge – and if you’re a journalist, an her up dans ses bras so please can it 55,584 supermarkets because – extension of the office. wait for another time when I promise metaphorically speaking to be all ears and to follow – we’re losing four Red up all your suggestions oh Lions every 24 hours and please oh please. being offered a similar number of Tesco Extras in Furthermore, it’s accepted their place. Venerable old that, statistically, you’re Queen Victoria and her much more likely to find attractive half-timbered employment in the pub frontage and billowing than the Jobcentre. Make window boxes are being it known you’re a plasterer assaulted by Big Bad on the lookout for tired Woolco. walls or an accountant with spare capacity, and “You don’t rush to before you know it you celebrate a new job, new have a pocket full of beer baby, engagement, mats with phone numbers wedding, or your team scribbled on them. winning the Cup in the supermarket,” said a Maybe there’s even spokesman for the British something going in one of Beer & Pub Association, those 55,584 supermarkets which issued the figures. – and if there is, someone “You can’t play darts, join in the pub will tell you the local football or cricket exactly what. Fortunately, team, sing karaoke, or do there are other ways of the quiz in the fruit and veg looking at figures, so aisle.” instead of moaning that we have indeed become a nation of shopkeepers, Nicely put, but you can The Ale House Door by Henry Singleton, c 1790 buy a cabbage or a couple let’s celebrate that we still of leeks in the pub – at The pub is where news is discovered, have 54,818 pubs to visit. least you can in our local when the where people will enlighten a hack Then when we factor in that there are allotmenteers bring in their booty to before they inform the police. But this 15 million regular pub-goers in the UK barter for beer. Sausage, cheese, a system of information-gathering and everyone has a tale to tell, is it rabbit or two, a brace of wood inevitably has its drawbacks – any wonder that we journos tell pigeons and couple of trout are fair someone will approach you with a people when we order a pint that game; all readily available. (As proof, juicy tale you’d rather not hear at that we’re working, then sit down to take just take note of how many blokes precise moment. our pick of an accumulated you see on a Sunday lunchtime 842,270,000,000 stories. clutching carrier bags. It’s a social They’ll not listen to the plea that phenomenon.) Even better though, for you’re only in for a quick one before Well, that’s our excuse. a journalist, pubs remain the place you go to the cinema and the French you find your best stories. love tangle is something your wife has Alastair Gilmour is a freelance been dying to see for ages and she’s journalist specialising in food and The pub is far more than somewhere had a hard day too and she needs drink. And pubs. INTERVIEW: BRENDA BLETHYN INTERVIEW In a glittering 40-year stage and screen career – including Oscar nominations for Secrets and Lies and Little Voice – Brenda Blethyn has travelled the world, but her latest role sees her share top billing with the spectacular Northumberland countryside. Nick McGrath meets her…

Perhaps best known for her heart-rending portrayal How did you get on with the Geordie accent and of downbeat working class London mum Cynthia did you know this part of the world well before Purley in Mike Leigh’s tear-jerking 1996 adoption filming Vera? drama, Secrets and Lies, Brenda Blethyn’s I didn’t know this part of the world but I’m dramatic journey from Ramsgate bank book- so glad I’ve discovered it. I loved being up keeper to bankable Hollywood star has taken her there, absolutely loved it. I think the accent is from Kent to Manhattan and back again. notoriously difficult for people who aren’t from the area, but I had a good teacher and I also had my She played Brad Pitt’s mother in Robert Redford’s co-star, David Leon, with me all day every day. Montana-set, A River Runs Through It, Julie He is from the area and he would pull me up if I Walters’s sister-in-law in the bittersweet Las Vegas went wrong. Also, I would go into town and chat drama, Girls’ Night, and spent several months to people in shops and I just kind of drenched filming in Russia and Lithuania for the 2007 TV myself in it. mini-series War and Peace. Did you study any local people to get the Made OBE for services to drama in 2003, Blethyn intonation right? married long-term partner, art director Michael There are so many accents in such a small area, Mayhew, in 2010. In her latest role, as whisky- so we had to find somewhere that embraced loving Detective Inspector Vera Stanhope in the them all and that wasn’t too strong. And [adopts second series of the Northumberland-set ITV flawless sing-song Geordie accent] I listened drama Vera, brings the 66-year-old actress back to Cheryl Cole quite a lot. She has a lovely little to North East England, just 70 miles north of the voice, pet. You’re reet up my street! scene of another of her greatest triumphs, the Scarborough-set 1998 classic, Little Voice. Did you try your accent out in Newcastle? I did. Of course people knew who I was though, And, as I discover, it wasn’t just the dramatic local but I’d ask people “does this sound all right to scenery that caught her eye… you?” Such nice people. >>

18 “I don’t look in the mirror as often as I should, although I have today. I think that’s probably why I got the part. And I like solving puzzles. I’m addicted to it, you could say.” FOLLOWING IN THE STEPS OF COLUMBO, WALLANDER AND MISS MARPLE

Do you think Vera will boost tourism to the North What was the worst thing about the filming? East? Being very cold on set. I was lucky as I was wearing It can’t fail to. It’s so beautiful. It’s stunning scenery. loads of layers so I was warmer than most people. We filmed at one castle and there was a lovely little In one of the scenes the tide came in and I saw the gift shop there and they had lovely woven blankets crew running up the beach and I thought, “where are and I bought about a dozen as I liked them so much they all going? and whoosh, we were up to our hips in and I thought they’d make lovely Christmas presents. water!”. But I like them all so much I haven’t given any of them away yet. Your character likes a drink. Was that whisky genuine? I wish I could say it was. I did have one as soon as we Had you read the Vera Stanhope books by Ann stopped filming. Our props man looked after me so Cleeves before you were offered the part? well. He had a very large glass for me. She does like No, I hadn’t read them before the job was mentioned her drink; beer or Scotch. to me and then I read all three of the books with Vera Stanhope in, although there have been more written Would you like to work for a boss like Vera? since. I like Vera, yes. I wouldn’t mind working for her. I’d like her as a friend. I like her. I think she’d be good to go Did you immediately see yourself in Vera’s shoes? down the pub with. When I eventually got to the character in the book and the description of her was, “a huge woman who looks Are there any character traits you think you share with like a bag lady, and so scruffy”, I thought, “Why have her? they thought of me?” Hang on… whose name jumps Humour. I don’t look in the mirror as often as I should, to mind? Brenda Blethyn. although I have today. I think that’s probably why I got the part. And I like solving puzzles. I’m addicted to it, But I love the character and I love the fact that she’s you could say. I’m also very conscientious, as Vera is. I not your conventional policewoman. And she’s not care about my work. I’m not unkind to people; neither hampered by any romantic involvement, which seems is she, and she has a good team-work ethic and I do to be obligatory when you’ve got female police too. officers. That’s not to say I don’t like the others. I do. I just thought this was refreshingly devoid of that. Have you got a favourite TV detective from the past? I enjoy watching all the usual suspects. I like Did you spend any time with real police forces to Wallander, Frost, Columbo; I like them all really. My research the role? old aunt loved a murder, but sadly she died last year. I didn’t, but my driver, who ferried me to and from set But I did sneakily show her a partially edited DVD of every day, used to be a superior officer to Vera so I’d Vera, so she did get to see it and I got her stamp of get all these tips on the way to work and back again. approval, so I was well pleased with that. I loved Joan In fact we thought up the perfect crime together, Hickson’s Miss Marple, and I only saw one episode but I’m not going to tell you what it is. For instance, of the most recent one with Julia Mackenzie and I I asked him why have policemen always got their thought she was lovely. She didn’t try to do anything hands in their pockets and he said it’s so they don’t tricky with it. I thought she was real. touch anything and contaminate the evidence. Is it nice to be working in the UK again after your Did you put a lot of thought into creating her sojourn in Hollywood? back-story? It’s great to be back in Britain doing something that Having worked with Mike Leigh I can’t help but do you’re proud of and to be doing that work on home that. You’re given a feast of information from the book. territory; you can’t beat it. That’s not to say it’s not very I mean you’re given the character from the book and nice to go and work in America or any other places, from the script, but then you have to kind of make but I’m a home girl and I’d much rather be working that work for you and it’s important to me what they here, be it film, theatre, radio or television. And what’s feel like when they get up in the morning. Just things lovely about this is that I’m so proud of it because the that you might think are trivial, for me it’s important production values are very, very good and it makes it to work those things out. She’s often described as a Ann Cleeves Vera so much better for an actor to work on when you’ve lonely person but I don’t think she’s lonely at all. She Stanhope novels got wonderful directors and art department and all the enjoys her own company and has got used to her published by Pan other departments. And great caterers. own company, so it’s working out the things that don’t Macmillan further the story in any way. To make the ‘smalls’ of it a bit clear to me and hopefully to the audience. The second series of Vera, starts on ITV1 this Spring.

20 TRAVEL BAKU’S RIGHT ON SONG Nick Easen breezes into Baku, capital of Azerbaijan, ahead of the arrival of the Eurovision extravaganza…

The sparkling to your left and every European feel. Home to a medieval multi-domed hamam, the beautiful fashion brand seductively gleaming to your right, can only Palace of Shirvanshahs, as well as a labyrinth of winding mean one thing – you’re in Baku and the cosmopolitan alleys, there’s no wonder it’s been a Unesco World Heritage glamour of its Park Bulvar on an afternoon stroll. Site since 2000.

The city’s most famous son, Garry Kasparov, who learnt to Baku or Baki means city of winds in the Azeri language and play chess on the chequerboard tables here, would hardly you get a sense of this when one of the narrow lanes spits recognise the spot. There’s a Lada, a Porsche Cayenne, a you out on to an elevated spot with views over the old town Lada, a Porsche Cayenne concertina – as you cross over roofs to the sea, kissed by a warm Caspian breeze. Neftchilar Prospekti. It’s easy to see why they filmed the James Bond movie, The World is Not Enough, here; Baku has Devote time to gorge at the Karvansarai, an underground an exotic, frontier, shabby chic feel. restaurant in the midst of the walled city. Here you can relax with a cup of black tea and fantastic Azeri food – lamb The first oil rush a century ago saw the arrival of elegant kebabs, Caspian fish, dolmas, yoghourt soups and rice or boulevards in the capital of Azerbaijan, a country tucked pillav, wolfed down with a delicious flatbread called lipioshka. precariously between the vast expanses of Turkey, Russia and Iran. At its eastern reaches lies Baku, where the Caucasus On the outskirts of the city, there are numerous beaches to Mountains tumble down into the Caspian Sea, only a five- explore, but more importantly visit Ateshgah, a Zoroastrian hour flight from Aberdeen. fire temple built in the 18th century, also a World Heritage Site, and then beyond to Gobustan. Today, black gold still fuels the Bellinis and beluga caviar and will do so again in May, when Baku hosts the 57th Eurovision Here mud volcanoes adorn the semi-desert steppe. It’s also Song Contest. No doubt the freshly erected five-star hotels home to more than 6,000 engravings bearing testimony to will appeal to its glam-singers, from the newly opened 40,000 years of rock art. The Azeri guide will point out the Kempinski to the Fairmont’s upcoming arrival this spring. well-preserved depictions of bulls, hunters, boats and women in the prehistoric paintings. The site is an hour away from While the glitzy Euro-entourages and vodka-teased fans Baku, out along the barren Apsheron peninsula, where oil cheer from the Buddha Bar, as well as the Ice and Hezz derricks punctuate the landscape. Club, you might be more interested to sneak off and explore the ancient Inner City or Ichari Shahar, or peer up at the With its ancient art, oil wealth and geostrategic position – on impregnable ninth century , one of Azerbaijan’s the Great Silk Road, between the Mediterranean, Caspian, oldest monuments. Black and Azov seas – it’s no wonder Azerbaijan has hosted various tribes, travellers, invaders, traders and missionaries Inside its honey-coloured sandstone walls, the is a throughout history. The current post-Soviet era is just the wonderful combination of an open-air museum with a lived-in most recent addition to that rich Azeri tapestry. FLIGHTS TO BAKU WITH EASTERN AIRWAYS PARTNER, AZERBAIJAN Elnur/Fotolia.com

© AIRLINES, CAN BE BOOKED ON THE EASTERN AIRWAYS WEBSITE. 22

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and Lady Egremont, the rest being managed by the National Yet the South Downs themselves are perhaps best viewed Trust. Lord (Max) Egremont is the official biographer of the war from the air. It is from the air that you get a clear sense of the poet Siegfried Sassoon and retains a large estate in Cumbria, way they rise up as you move inland, to form a barrier like the from where the title originates. rim of a tray. It is a barrier that often divides the area into two microclimates: Chichester, Arundel and Selsey dominated by But I digress – Petworth is something of a honeypot on the sea and all it can throw at the land, and a sheltered basin summer weekends and in that it is not alone: we loved behind the Downs. Arundel, with its far more eclectic range of shops, imposing castle and seaside location. And Goodwood, of course, has its For a mere land-bound mortal, the view of the Downs is often own glorious claims to fame, motorised and equine. obscured by trees – besides the open chalk pasture, woodland is the other defining characteristic of the landscape in the Goodwood is at the edge of Chichester, just outside the national park, which includes not only the chalk hills themselves, national park, and the latter is a quite perfect little city, with but also the undulating sandstone of the Weald, to the north. its Festival Theatre, art galleries and a largely pedestrianised centre. The tendrils of waterways lined with attractive But from the ridge of the Downs, traversed by the South houseboats edge their way into the city and are a reminder that Downs Way National Trail, you can gaze back across this when the Romans built Fishbourne Palace, the sea extended landscape. This 100-mile trail for walkers riders and cyclists as far inland as this. Today, the palace sits incongruously amid extends from Winchester to Eastbourne and is the only a 20th century housing estate, but its remains and Roman national trail wholly within a national park. It may not have the finds are still among the finest to be seen in Britain. bleak drama of the Pennine Way, but it is a potent reminder of why this area is now a national park and I could easily imagine We ventured further out of the national park, to the Witterings a week exploring itself full extent. But that is for another time. villages, on Selsey Bill, a vast shingle peninsula with a character all its own and a lovely little surfers’ café. >> MIDHURST ANGEL The historic market town of Midhurst, at the heart of the new South Downs National Park, was a loser in Dr Beeching’s lottery, which decided which towns would retain their railway links with London and elsewhere. Or perhaps it was a winner: it could be precisely because, unlike nearby Petersfield or Haslemere, Midhurst has not been a major commuter proposition that it has retained so much of what it was.

Here is a high street that Mary Portas would die for, lined as it is by busy independent shops and cafés, and dotted historic churches and half- timbered buildings. It seems an apt choice for the national park’s new headquarters. And at the heart of this town at the heart of the national park is a hotel whose manager applauds the arrival of the park.

The Angel Hotel, on Midhurst’s main street, dates back to the 18th century and has, in its time, housed a travelling magistrates’ court and hosted guests including H G Wells, Hilaire Beloc, and the Pilgrim Fathers.

In the spirit of Midhurst’s commercial offer, the Angel is privately owned and, like many small hotels, it found itself increasingly at the wrong end of changing patterns of trade. And then, in 2009, it enjoyed a £750,000 makeover, its 28 bedrooms, reduced to 15 stylish en suite rooms, and, in 2010, Richard Macadam, came in as manager from Chichester’s Westoe House restaurant with rooms, to shake up the food and drink offer to match.

The designation of the South Downs National Park has, says Richard, had a visible impact on the Angel’s clientèle. “It’s certainly bringing in a new client base that’s never been to this area. People are thinking of the South Downs as a destination for a holiday as opposed to a weekend and we are aware that we have relatively easy access to the more western parts of the South Pond, Midhurst (top); Lombard Street, Petworth park if you want to make this a base.

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EASTERN AIRWAYS WON THE BACA AWARDS: BEST PASSENGER CHARTER AIRLINE 2011 Despite the long and contentious debates that preceded designation of the park, Richard is emphatic: “We see only benefits. For us it’s certainly an opportunity to be recommended, and to an international audience as well.” Indeed, the new park has been drawing visitors from Australia and New Zealand, as well as, more predictably, Germany and the Netherlands, he says.

Richard brings to the Angel the kind of world view you might expect from someone who trained at Brighton’s Grand Hotel and then spent three years travelling 20,000 miles through Australia in search of the country’s best independent vineyards. “It certainly opened my eyes to the quality of food and wine available.”

Richard honed his skills back in the UK, including a stint at Midhurst’s Spread Eagle Hotel, and brought in chef Richard Cook from an independent restaurant in Denham and set about building a wine list for the Angel’s Bentleys restaurant to complement a food offer in which Argentinian steaks are a speciality. There’s a good reason for that: Cowdray Park, the home of British polo, is less than a mile away, and it in turn is home to Argentinian polo players who know good Argentinian beef when they taste it. “Sixty per cent of our menu is locally sourced, including from the farm shop at Cowdray,” he says.

Eastern Airways flies to Southampton Airport, 30 miles from Midhurst, from Aberdeen and Brussels. Angel Hotel, Midhurst www.theanglemidhurst.co.uk South Downs Way www.nationaltrail.co.uk/southdowns This feature is supported by Eastern Airways’ car hire partner, Europcar, www.europcar.com Angel Hotel

SOUTH DOWNS NATIONAL PARK A LONG TIME IN THE MAKING The South Downs is Britain’s newest The idea of national park here is as old as Commission issued the damning verdict national park and, besides being among concern at the outward march of London that in “digging for victory” on the South the largest, has also spent longer in suburbia and, in the 1920s, the notion that Downs, farmers had so damaged the area gestation than any other – longer than a a national park would halt that advance that they had dug a grave for the national whole herd of pregnant elephants added towards the south coast. park. together. In 1949 the post-war government’s What has changed in the ensuing 56 years The creation of the new park, after a long ambitions for the country’s reconstruction is both an overriding desire to halt the process that culminated in public inquiry included plans for 12 national parks in loss of traditional downland and changes and a ministerial rebuff to some of the England and Wales. All but two – the in agricultural and conservation policy to more persistent objectors, is vindication of South Downs and the New Forest – enable the reversal of the wartime and the viewpoint that if you stick to your guns were duly designated over the next few subsequent habitat loss. for long enough you may just, eventually, years but in 1956 the dream appeared get your way. to have died, when the National Parks www.southdowns.gov.uk

L-R: Fulking Escarpment, Fittleworth, Birling Gap 25

BOOK REVIEWS REVIEWS THE WORLD IS THEIR OYSTER BOOK We take a look at two very big sellers…

In an age when the very future of the large atlas such as Earth Platinum and explore, then walk back and take printed book may be under threat provides a sense of scale and in the whole. from its digital counterpart, one texture, like no other atlas in the publisher is fighting back: big time! world,” says Managing Director “Looking at mapping online in Millennium House, based in North Gordon Cheers. comparison is like a fast food drive- Narrabeen, in New South Wales, has through – it might fulfil an immediate just brought out “the world’s biggest “The sheer size sets up a relationship need, but hardly enriches the soul book”. As it’s a staggering two between the viewer and the atlas. To or engages the imagination. Like the metres tall, that’s a claim unlikely to see different parts of the atlas you difference between a cheap digital be challenged. can’t just click on a mouse, you have watch and traditional one. Similarly, to engage your whole body to move Earth Platinum is much more than a The superlatives don’t end there, three metres from one side of the screen-sized image – at 2m high x however. The Earth Platinum super- book to another. 3m wide, its sheer presence provides atlas, retails at a mere $100,000 (US) an exhibition experience.” and, with a print run of just 31 copies “Because the pages are offset will not cover its costs. So why? printed the definition is very fine, it Millennium House spent $1 million has texture, you feel you can touch on the mapping for Earth Platinum, “I think it is important to note that a the hills, you want to move in close whose 128 pages include 61 pages

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www.millenniumhouse.com.au 1,000 Places is one of those books that can’t fail to amaze – how does the author successfully research just so much? Once again, it sets the bar for others to admire or imitate.

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1,000 Places To See Before You Die, The New Full-Colour Second Edition. Published in paperback by Workman at £14.99. ISBN: 978-0-7611-5686-4 28

ON LOCATION: JURA AND ABERDEEN Stuart MacBride.Stuart Stan Abbott investigates… Scotland’s inhabited islands? The answer is to least the be densely populated ofall bustlingbetween Aberdeen and Jura, said could possibly the connection be What Just in case you hadn’t heard, Stuart MacBride is to Aberdeen what Ian Rankin Stuart MacBride is to Edinburgh. Detective Sergeant Logan McRae is to MacBride as Inspector Rebus is to Rankin. But where does the Isle of Jura – most famous for its whisky and as the location at which George Orwell wrote his iconic 1984 and diced with death at the infamous Corryvreckan whirlpool – fit in? Let me remind you that the advertising industry has long imparted health-giving or other generally beneficial properties to alcohol. Remember that Heineken Refreshed the Parts Other Beers Couldn’t Reach, while Double Diamond Worked Wonders. More plausibly, Guinness was, simply, Good for You and, teetotallers (or perhaps those on the wagon) could console themselves with the knowledge that Lucozade would, possibly, Aid Their Recovery. Now it seems that Jura Single Malt Gets The Creative Juices Flowing, and Stuart MacBride is living proof! Whyte and Mackay, owner of the Isle of Jura Distillery, is working with the Scottish Book Trust to promote a writers’ retreat on the Hebridean isle. It just >> we are presented with an happens to be located “over the undergraduates’ “crash shop” as it were. And as part of dummy” scene of crime the deal, writers whose creativity to unravel, and get to may be stimulated by its location gaze down comparison above the distillery, can enjoy as microscopes and spectral much single malt as they want for comparators. a week. Stuart MacBride is the first of what is expected to become a We head via Grampian long list of well-known authors who Police HQ to the Mercat will test the inspirational powers of Cross, where Stuart reminds Jura single malt. us that it was here that convicted witches would be As Stuart himself put it: “To be executed in the 16th and 17th honest, they had me at ‘free malt centuries. Then, via Logan’s whisky for a week’, and the gaff in Marischal Street, to chance to spend a week on Jura, the harbour, scene of the staying in the lodge above the WITH THE DISTILLERY’S WARES “ON discovery of a container full distillery, was just too good to of human remains in Flesh refuse. Jura’s a spectacular island TAP” THROUGHOUT THE WEEK, IT House. with inspiration lurking around every corner, so it’s no surprise WAS “SO NICE TO REDISCOVER THE Stuart recalls moving to that George Orwell managed to Aberdeen when he was two produce one of his finest works DELIGHTS OF WHISKY”. and learning the local Doric there.” dialect for “self-preservation” at school. He worked offshore and then in IT, not far from the He was speaking to journalists at Ma Cameron’s, possibly the harbour, in Shore Lane. Theatre Lane, just round the corner, is a oldest pub in Aberdeen, first stop on a tour of the Granite City’s dingy covered alley that looks like a pretty good place for one of twilight world inhabited by Logan McRae and the villains he his murders... pursues. The bar was a favourite of Stuart in his student days. Stuart, who says he was never very good at English, tells me Now a youthful 40-something, MacBride wears his hair in a how he only turned full-time professional writer four years ago, ponytail. The man sitting beside him is chalk to the MacBride after publication of the first three McRae books. Cold Granite cheese: a lived-in face that recalls an eccentric TV detective. This earned him the Barry Award for best first novel, since when he’s is Dave Barclay, once of the National Crime Faculty (since renamed won two other major awards and been three times nominated the National Police Improvement Agency) and now a lecturer in for the Old Peculier Crime Novel of the Year Award (maybe beer Forensic Science at Aberdeen’s Robert Gordon University. He’s can stir the creative juices too!). MacBride’s informal adviser on the forensic detail of his novels. But let’s get the whisky out and see if we too can become Rob Bruce, of owners Whyte and Mackay, explains the thinking successful writers of fiction. First is Jura Superstitious, its honey behind the retreat. “The reason we set this programme up and heather tones are unlike those of a peaty Islay malt; the was to try and give writers like Stuart some time out – and Diurachs’ Own 16-year-old follows and has a hint of peat to try and give something back to the local community. Jura and maybe chocolate; finally, Prophecy is as peaty as any has got quite a strong literary heritage. The idea is to get a Islay. Rob says that being the only distillery on the island series of authors to come across and have a short holiday allows the flexibility to “manipulate the ingredients”. and stay at our expense in the Lodge – and write a short story based on the characters they are famous for. The only After their week at the Lodge, Stuart and his wife Fiona stipulation is that they feature the Isle of Jura.” appear to have acquired whisky legs that will keep them upright to the wee small hours. But for all the amber The idea is that the short stories will ultimately be nectar, Stuart did manage to produce a 24-page sold as a collection, with the proceeds going to the tale, called Stramash – Scots for a disturbance or community, whose small numbers (the population racket. The disturbance in question comes when is just 200 to the 4,000 on its more famous vast quantities of illicit drugs are washed ashore whisky neighbour, Islay) struggle to maintain basic on Jura. It’s Heroin Galore and amid it all are amenities, like the Post Office. Rob dreams of the Logan McRae and his boss, Roberta Steel, who is island one day hosting the world’s remotest literary supposed to be enjoying a quiet holiday on Jura. festival. I left Aberdeen with two resolves: to visit Jura and, With the distillery’s wares “on tap” throughout as a relatively recent convert to the crime fiction the week, it was, says Stuart with admirable genre, to add MacBride’s full-length tales to my list understatement, “so nice to rediscover the delights of must-reads. of whisky”. “I’m really looking forward to seeing what the writers’ retreat sparks in other authors on Become a Diurach at www.isleofjura.com and the programme.” download Stramash at www.isleofjura.com/ Her Majesty’s press will soon see if they are library/writers-retreat-2011.aspx. Follow Stuart similarly inspired, but first it’s on to Dave Barclay’s MacBride’s Logan McRae locations in Aberdeen at 30 department at Robert Gordon University, where https://foursquare.com/jura_whisky. COMPETITIONTRAVEL (also on sale in Norwich airport duty free shop). duty (also airport on sale www.englishwhisky.co.uk inNorwich of bottles Chaptertwo 6, England’s award-winning finest single whisky malt Welcome to the Eastern page puzzle Airways and your chance to one of win PUZZLE PAGE PUZZLE by Yves Du Sault 31 32

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Typical Dales barn and wall landscape at Askrigg, near Hawes; Semerwater; Wensleydale and cranberry cheese; Stone House Hotel; miniature cricketers at The Forbidden Corner

Just time to pop into Outhwaite’s local people as well as visitors – and Ropemakers and marvel that this Chaste proves to offer that combination traditional ropemaker continues to thrive of well cooked local produce, nicely in an age of mechanisation. presented in a vibrant atmosphere, though I note that it’s since been put up We slip over the hill into tranquil Raydale for sale… to walk round Semerwater, the largest lake in the Dales, taking in the villages Heading back down the dale, there of Countersett and Marsett, with their was one special date awaiting us – The rugged Nordic names that remind me Forbidden Corner. You have to pre- that the local dialect here still draws book to visit this extraordinary creation on the language of Viking settlers, with at Tupgill Park, near Middleham. It’s distinctive words like “lake” meaning a labyrinth of tunnels, underground to play in Wensleydale, as it does in chambers, turrets, follies and mazes Stavanger or Reykjavík. and described as “best day out” and “European folly of the year” in various The dramatic preserved ruins of the quarters. We loved it and made the old chapel near the lofty settlement of “grown-up” kids jealous for having Stalling Busk make a great vantage at missed it. which to eat the wonderful sandwiches from the little shop on Hawes main street For the Yorkshire Dales, Eastern tolia.com (which also sells packets of intriguing Fo

Airways flies to Durham Tees Valley from - Three Peaks coffee). Headstones and Aberdeen, and Leeds Bradford from ignell memorials suggest this is a favourite last Aberdeen and Bristol. Br resting place for people from far beyond ris

Ch www.yorkshiredales.org.uk

the Dales. / www.stonehousehotel.com Dinner at Chaste, on Hawes Market www.theforbiddencorner.co.uk Place, sees more old acquaintances www.wensleydalerailway.com

Yorkshire.com renewed – always a good sign to find www.yorkshire.com LOST IN TRANSLATION Adam Jacot de Boinod is a man fascinated by language. Here he exposes the pitfalls of failing to let a professional translate for you…

In their eagerness to conquer new advertise its new leather first class seats in Mexico, its ads were supposed to markets, many companies don’t do in the Mexican market, it translated its say “It won’t leak in your pocket and their homework very well. When the Fly In Leather campaign literally, which embarrass you”. However, the company name Microsoft was first translated into meant (vuela en cuero) Fly Naked, in mistakenly thought the Spanish word Chinese, the company went for a literal Spanish. “embarazar” meant embarrass. Instead translation of the two parts of the name. the ads said that “It won’t leak in your Unfortunately that meant it was called Colgate introduced a toothpaste in pocket and make you pregnant”. “small and flaccid”. France called Cue, the name of a notorious pornographic magazine. The Swedish vacuum cleaner company Pepsi’s famous “Come Alive” was Electrolux told Americans that “nothing dropped in China after it was translated Coca Cola was horrified to discover sucks like an Electrolux” as “Pepsi brings your ancestors back that its name was first read by the from the grave”. Chinese as Kekoukela, meaning either Clairol messed up with its translation “Bite the wax tadpole” or “female in Germany and made the mistake of When General Motors tried to market horse stuffed with wax”, depending trying to sell customers a manure stick the Chevy Nova car in Central and on the dialect. Coke then researched instead of a mist stick for their hair! South America, they overlooked the 40,000 characters to find a phonetic

tolia.com fact that No va means “doesn’t go” in equivalent kokou kole which translates Coors Beer told customers that their Fo

- Spanish. as “happiness in the mouth”. beer made people have diarrhoea. What they meant to say was that it “loosens

34 Ssogras When American Airlines wanted to When Parker marketed a ball-point pen you up”! NOTICE BOARDS ABROAD FOR THE CONSUMER

Other nationalities can have trouble with English vocabulary and idiom, as illustrated by these public notices. Atum Bom Portuguese tinned tuna

In a Rome laundry: In a Hong Kong dress shop: Bimbo Mexican biscuits Ladies, leave your clothes here and Ladies may have a fit upstairs Kevin French aftershave spend the afternoon having a good time In a Paris hotel: Polio Czech detergent On the box of a clockwork toy made in Please leave your values at the front desk Vaccine Dutch aftershave Hong Kong: Guaranteed to work throughout its In a former Yugoslavian hotel: Flirt Austrian cigarettes useful life The flattening of underwear with Meltykiss Japanese chocolate pleasure is the job of the chambermaid In a Thai advertisement for donkey Climax Kenyan disinfectant rides: In a doctor’s surgery in Rome: Noisy French butter We have our own ass if you would like Specialist in women and other diseases to take a ride Last Climax Japanese tissues In a Danish airline office: Prison Ugandan body spray On a detour sign in Japan: We take your baggage and send it in all Stop: Drive Sideways directions Puke Turkish playing cards Skum Swedish Confectionery Over the bathroom sink in a Mexican In a Japanese hotel: hotel: You are invited to take advantage of the Arses Spanish red wine The water has been passed personally chambermaid Colon Plus Spanish detergent by the hotel manager In the lobby of a Bucharest hotel: Dribly Italian lemonade In a hotel room in Cambodia: The lift is being fixed for the next day. Mental Italian breath fresheners Sorry for guests who have problem, During that time we regret that you will and thank for guests who have no be unbearable Mercy Japanese lavatory paper problem Plop Swedish chocolate bar In an Athens hotel: Outside a Paris couturier: Visitors are expected to complain at the Plopsies French breakfast cereal Dresses for streetwalking office between the hours of 9 and 11am Trim Pecker Japanese men’s trousers daily In a Tokyo bar: Zit Greek lemon and lime soft drink Special cocktails for the ladies with In a Viennese hotel: Lady Gay Kenyan hair wax nuts In case of fire, do your utmost to alarm the hotel porter Schmuck German confectionery In a German lift: Do not enter the lift backwards and only In an Acapulco hotel: Grizly Chilean savoury snacks when lit up The manager has personally passed all Slag Dutch lager the water served here In a Norwegian lounge: Love Body Japanese soft drink Ladies are requested not to have On a sign posted in Germany’s Black Preen Indian laundry soap children in the bar Forest: It is strictly forbidden on our black Bra Swedish milk “bra” means “good” in For visitors to the Czech Republic: forest camping site that people of Swedish) Take one of our horse-driven city tours: different sex, for instance, men and Yes Swiss chocolate we guarantee no miscarriages women, live together in one tent unless they are married with each other for Yes Swedish washing up liquid In a Bangkok drycleaner: that purpose Squirt Guatemalan soft drink Drop your trousers here for best results On a on the door of a Moscow hotel Pile French scratch card In a German maternity ward:: room: Invisibles French pasta No children allowed in the maternity If this is your first visit to the USSR, you ward are welcome to it

Adam Jacot de Boinod is the author of The Meaning of Tingo and Other Extraordinary Words from around the World, published by Penguin Books.

WELCOME TO OUR ESSENTIALS BARE ESSENTIALS Here you can find information on our routes, fleet, passenger BARE experience and a host of suggestions for what to do when you arrive at your destination.

OUR DESTINATIONS SCATSTA

Scheduled Routes ANGEAVST R

Charter Routes

WICK

STORNOWAY

ABERDEEN

GLASGOW THE FLEET BAKU

NEWCASTLE

DURHAM TEES VALLEY LEEDS BRADFORD EMBRAER ERJ145 HUMBERSIDE

One aircraft Length 30m (98ft) EAST MIDLANDS Seats 50 passengers Typical cruising speed, Two turbofan engines 450 knots, at 35,000ft Wingspan, 20m (65ft) NORWICH

CARDIFF BIRMINGHAM

FI BRISTOL SOUTHAMPTON BRUSSELS EMBRAER ERJ135

Two aircraft Length 26m (86ft) Seats 37 passengers Typical cruising speed, Two turbofan engines 450 knots, at 35,000ft Wingspan, 20m (65ft)

JETSTREAM 41 SAAB 2000

18 aircraft Length 20m (63ft) BORDEAUXEight aircraft Length 26.7m (89ft) Seats 29 passengers Typical cruising speed, Seats 50 passengers Typical cruising speed, Two turboprop engines 280 knots, at 20,000ft Two jetprop engines 370 knots, at 28,000ft 36 Wingspan 19m (60ft) Wingspan 24.3m (81ft)

TOULOUSE ESSENTIAL TRAVEL PASSENGER EXPERIENCE

After booking your Eastern Airways flight items of hand luggage by the aircraft via a travel agent, the airline’s website or steps. Your hand luggage will be awaiting AIR TRAVEL in-house reservations call centre, you will you on the valet baggage cart at your have noticed that Eastern Airways uses destination airport. SHOULD BE MORE OF e-tickets. It was in fact one of the airlines to pioneer ticketless travel over nine Once on board, our highly trained cabin A PLEASURE AND years ago. attendants offer a friendly and personal- ised in-flight service including compli- LESS OF A CHORE Queues at check-in are short and the mentary drinks and branded snacks. On process is swift as is the experience arrival our aircraft allow for quick Our aim is to make your travel as pleasant through the security channels. This is disembarkation, enabling passengers to an experience as possible. possible thanks to a ground-breaking make their way swiftly onwards through initiative called Fast Track, which is the terminals. Have an enjoyable trip. available at Aberdeen, Leeds Bradford, South­ampton, East Midlands, Newcastle, Glasgow, and is a dedicated security channel for Eastern Airways passengers STAMPING OUT DISRUPTIVE BEHAVIOUR to use and avoid busy airport terminal security queues. While the vast majority of passengers flying globally behave impeccably, there is a greater awareness of isolated incidents of disruptive behaviour, also known as “air With Eastern Airways operating the largest rage”. While this isn’t a major problem for Eastern Airways, the safety and security of number of scheduled services from our pass­engers and crew is our number one priority. Aberdeen, a dedicated business lounge is available for all its customers flying from We don’t want our customers to experience any behaviour that makes them feel the airport and is located next to its uncomfortable, or be put in a situation that compromises safety. Disruptive behaviour departure gates. Executive lounge access can include smoking, drunkenness, aggress­ive behaviour or abusive language towards is also offered at Glasgow, Birmingham, a customer or a member of crew. Our crews are fully trained to deal with any incident of Leeds Bradford, Bristol, Norwich, this type. Southampton and Cardiff for passengers travelling on fully flexible tickets. Disobeying a command, which is lawful by a crew member, is committing an offence under the UK Air Navigation Order. Offenders who persistently misbehave on As you board your aircraft you will a flight will be handed to the appropriate authorities on arrival and may face arrest and a notice we have a fleet of liveried valet heavy fine or up to two years imprisonment. Severe restrict­ions will also be placed on baggage carts for you to place larger their future travel with Eastern Airways.

ON ESSENTIAL GOINGS ON… GOINGS FOOD ON THE MENU Newcastle’s medieval Blackfriars’ Restaurant is staging a series of events

ESSENTIAL for anyone interested in food. Fresh from filming the Great British Bake-Off, Caroline Yeldham, one of the country’s foremost food historians, will host a Medieval Cooking Workshop on April 21, featuring medieval cooking, table manners and etiquette. And on April 27 Beer and Food Matching will introduce some of the finest brews from the North East region and beyond, accompanied by some delicious cuisine. www.blackfriarsrestaurant.co.uk

MODERN ART The Sainsbury Centre for Visual Arts, in Norwich, has embarked on a four-year programme of major investment. The first phase of this development is the transformation of the west end of Norman Foster’s landmark building. In the new Modernisms Gallery, The First Moderns: Art Nouveau, from Nature to Abstraction, is the first in a The head of Leda, c. 1505-6, Leonardo da Vinci. The Royal Collection© 2012, series of spectacular displays of works Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II from the centre’s permanent collections that will explore the importance of DRAWING ON A ROYAL HERITAGE design, particularly in the European context in the 19th and 20th centuries. It As part of this year’s celebrations of clubs, possibly intended for a treatise features the centre’s Anderson the Diamond Jubilee of Her Majesty on warfare, and a sketch of an Collection of Art Nouveau, with major The Queen, Bristol Museum and Art enormous equestrian monument to loaned works from the V&A, Glasgow Gallery is among five regional Francesco Sforza, the father of his School of Art and private collections. museums to host a tour of ten of patron Ludovico Sforza, ruler of Milan. www.scva.ac.uk Leonardo da Vinci’s finest drawings More peaceful are a study of the head from the Royal Collection. of Leda, the mythical princess seduced by Jupiter, and a detailed The drawings have been selected botanical study of oak leaves. from the unparalleled holdings of the Leonardo’s pioneering scientific work Royal Library to reflect the whole is exemplified by a double-sided sheet range of Leonardo’s activities. of anatomical studies, based on human dissection carried out by the Leonardo’s drawings were executed in artist in the medical school of the a range of different media – pen and university of Pavia. ink, red and black chalks, and metalpoint, in which a silver stylus is The exhibition opens at Bristol drawn across coated paper to Museum & Art Gallery on March 31 produce studies of great finesse. and runs until June 10. Emile Gallé, vase “blow-out” cameo Included in the exhibition are a sheet glass, circa 1920. Anderson Collection 38 of designs of chariots geared to flailing www.bristol.gov.uk of Art Nouveau WALKING WALES Ramblers from all over Britain will be heading for the seaside on May 5-6 to celebrate the opening of the All Wales Coastal Path.

Ramblers Cymru will be holding The Big Welsh Walk. The rest of Britain can take part in Coast for Most day to celebrate coastal walks Scotland and in England, as the Ramblers calls on the Government to support the idea of an English Coastal path.

www.ramblers.org.uk

THE NAME’S BOND, BOND IN MOTION PCNPA The largest official collection of original From Russia With Love including the Bond vehicles the world has ever seen will elegant Fairey Huntress Speedboat, be on display until December 2012 in the Goldfinger’s 1937 Rolls-Royce Phantom III, Bond in Motion exhibition at the National the buzzing autogyro from You Only Live Motor Museum at Beaulieu, Hampshire. Twice and Octopussy’s screeching Acrostar Jet alongside cars, bikes, trikes, Alongside the most famous vehicles like the sleds and boats. Aston Martin DB5 and the Lotus Esprit S1, The Pembrokeshire Coast path. See there is a host of treasures dating back to www.beaulieu.co.uk National Parks feature page 46

FESTIVAL WITH A DRAGON ACT TOO This summer sees the fifth Leeds Waterfront Festival on the weekend of June 30 and July 1. This year sees the return of the Leeds Community Foundation Dragon Boat Racing Spectacle and the new IWA Boat Gathering at Thwaite Mills Watermill, as well as live music, arts and dance, on the water fun with walk on water balls and canoe sessions, heritage boats and boat trips.

The Dragon Boat racing at Clarence Dock sees some of Leeds’s biggest employers taking to the water to raise money for Leeds based community initiatives, and features huge 40ft long dragon boats complete with 16 paddlers and a drummer all in technicolour fancy dress. www.leedswaterfrontfestival.com Wet Day at Ayr Races’ watercolour, 13” x 19”

QUOTE – UNQUOTE

An Exhibition by RUTH LOUGH

THE RENDEZVOUS GALLERY 100 Forest Avenue Aberdeen AB15 4TL Tel 01224 323247 www.rendezvous-gallery.co.uk [email protected] 40

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Nature Festival Beach. West Harris International surfing, Thurso

WHERE WHERE WHERE Twenty four miles north west of Lerwick, To the east of the town. Taxis and car One mile from the centre of Wick, Shetland’s principal town, and five miles hire are available at the airport. No half-an-hour’s drive from Thurso. south-west of Sullom Voe oil terminal. The weekend flights. Mackinnon Self Drive: Main bus and rail stations are near to village of Brae is about eight miles to the +44 (0)1851 702984. Wick centre serving most places in south. For hire car visit www.boltscarhire. Caithness. Trains to Thurso and co.uk or call 01595 693 636 (no on-airport VISIT Inverness. Post bus operates facilities) Stornoway Museum, Francis St; Thurso-Wick-Airport. Car hire: Stornoway Fish Smokers, Shell St; Dunnets offers airport pick-up and VISIT Woodlands Centre, Lews Castle drop-off, 01955 602103. Muckle Flugga, Unst. Forget John grounds; An Lanntair Arts Centre, O’Groats, this is the very northernmost Kenneth Street, Stornoway. VISIT tip of Britain. Shetland Museum, Lerwick; Wick Heritage Museum; St Fergus Jarlshof, Grutness (both mainland). STAY AT Gallery, Sinclair Terr; Pulteney Hotel Hebrides, Tarbert; Royal Hotel, Distillery, Huddart St. STAY AT Cromwell St; Scarista House, west Busta House Hotel, Brae; Saxa Vord Harris; Auberge Carnish, Uig. STAY AT Resort, Unst; Orca Country Inn, Sandwick. Ackergill Tower; Mackays Hotel; The SHOP AT Brown Trout Hotel, Station Rd, SHOP AT Callanish Jewellery, Point St; This Watten, nr Wick. Shetland Fudge, Lerwick; Jamieson ’n That, Cromwell St; Borgh Pottery, & Son Knitwear, Lerwick; Valhalla Brewery, Borgh (20 miles). SHOP AT Saxa Vord. John O’Groats (pottery, knitwear); DRINK AT Rotterdam St, Thurso (20 miles). DRINK AT Clachan Bar, North Beach; Hebridean Mid Brae Inn, Brae; The Lounge Bar, Bar, South Beach; Whalers Rest, DRINK AT Lerwick; Kiln Bar, Scalloway. Francis St. Ebenezer’s, Mackay’s Hotel; Wetherspoons and Camps Bar. EAT AT EAT AT Busta House Hotel, Brae; Monty’s Bistro, Digby Chick, Bank St; Golden Ocean, EAT AT Lerwick; Saxa Vord Resort, Unst. Cromwell St; Thai, Church St. Bord de l’Eau, Market St; Le Bistro, Thurso; Captain’s Galley, Scrabster COMING UP COMING UP (22 miles). Young Fiddler of the Year 2012 The Donald Macleod Memorial Competition, Garrison Theatre, Lerwick; Piping Competition, The Caladh Inn, COMING UP Apr 26-28; Shetland Folk Festival, May Stornoway, Mar 30; Stornoway Half O’Neill Coldwater Classic, 3-6; Shetland Classic Motor Show 2012, Marathon, 10k and Fun Run, May International surfing event, Thurso, Clickimin Centre, Lerwick, May 31-Jun 5; 26; Harris Arts Festival 2012, various April 13-19; Wick Diamond Jubilee Shetland Nature Festival, Jul 7-15. locations, July; Stornoway Golf Club Harbourfest and RNLI Lifeboat Day, Open Week, Jul 7-14. Jun 15-17.

Airport 01806 244900 Airport 01851 702256 Airport 01955 602215 www.hial.co.uk/stornoway-airport.html www.hial.co.uk/wick-airport.html Frequent daily charter service to Aberdeen, operated by Eastern Airways for the Integrated Eastern Airways flights direct to Aberdeen. Onward Eastern Airways flights direct to Aberdeen. Aviation Consortium connections to Bristol, Durham Tees Valley, East Onward connections to Bristol, Durham Tees Tourist/Local Info 01595 98 98 98 Midlands, Humberside, Leeds Bradford, Newcastle, Valley, East Midlands, Humberside, Leeds www.visit.shetland.org Norwich, Southampton, Wick Bradford, Newcastle, Norwich, Southampton, Tourist/Local Info 01851 703088 Stavanger, Stornoway www.visithebrides.com Tourist/Local Info 0845 22 55 121 www.visithighlands.com 42

Glasgow: Scotland with style / Hull: www.yorkshire.com BARE ESSENTIALS : DESTINATIONS Festival, Jun festival, of AECC, Scotland’s Paula Cinnamon, Stage Queens Simpson’s Balaclava Silver Lounge, The Antique St; Juniper Thistle’s Hotel Rox Rendezvous Shiprow; Aberdeen info the centre, Seven WHERE COMING UP COMING EATAT AT DRINK AT SHOP STAYAT VISIT ABERDEEN www.aberdeencityandshire.com Tourist/Local Airways Eastern www.aberdeenairport.com Airport Southampton, Stavanger, Stornoway, Wick. Leeds Bradford,Newcastle,Norwich, Durham Tees Valley, EastMidlands,Humberside,

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Teddy Bear Story Museums Quarter, Hull National Media Museum

WHERE WHERE WHERE Five miles east of Darlington and 10 miles Fifteen miles east of Scun­thorpe, 20 miles Nine miles north-west of Leeds city centre, west of Middlesbrough.There is a regular south of Hull, 16 miles west of Grimsby, 30 seven miles from Bradford. Regular Airlink bus shuttle to Darlington rail station, 6 miles miles north of Lincoln. Regular bus services 757 bus from bus and rail stations to away on main line to Scotland and the to Hull, Grimsby, Scunthorpe, Doncaster terminal. Taxi time 20-25 mins. For car South. Taxi fare to Darlington approx £8. and Sheffield. Barnetby Station three miles hire see Europcar info on back page. For car hire see Europcar info back page. from airport with Intercity connections via Don­caster. Approx taxi fare to Hull £26. For VISIT VISIT car hire see Europcar info, back page. Royal Armouries, Leeds; Leeds City mima (Middlesbrough Institute Museum, Millennium Square; National of Modern Art) Centre Square; VISIT Media Museum, Bradford. Locomotion, the National Railway Museums Quarter, Hull’s Old Town; The Museum at Shildon; Hartlepool’s Maritime Deep, Hull; Lincoln Cathedral; Ferens Art STAY AT Experience, Historic Quay. Gallery, Hull. Double Tree by Hilton, Leeds; Radisson Blu, The Headrow, Leeds; the New STAY AT STAY AT Ellington, Leeds; Dubrovnik boutique Rockliffe Hall, Hurworth on Tees; Forest Pines Hotel, Broughton; Cave hotel, Oak Avenue, Bradford. Walworth Castle, near Darlington; Castle Hotel, Brough; Best Western Headlam Hall, near Darlington; Willerby Manor Hotel, Willerby; The White SHOP AT Craythorne Hall Hotel, Yarm. Hart, Lincoln. Retro Boutique, Headingley Lane, Leeds; Harvey Nichols, Briggate, Leeds; Victoria SHOP AT SHOP AT Quarter, Leeds. Psyche, Linthorpe Rd, Middles­brough; Bailgate and Steep Hill area, Lincoln; Henri The House, Yarm High Street; Leggs, Beene (Menswear), Abbeygate, Grimsby. DRINK AT Skinnergate, Darlington. Baby Jupiter, York Place, Leeds; Fudge DRINK AT Bar, Assembly St, Leeds; Haigys, Lumb DRINK AT The Wig & Mitre, Steep Hill, Lincoln; Ye Lane, Bradford. George and Dragon, Yarm; Black Bull, Olde Black Boy, High St, Hull. Frosterley. EAT AT EAT AT Mumtaz, Clarence Dock, Leeds; Brasserie EAT AT Figs Restaurant, Cleethorpes; Blanc, Sovereign St, Leeds; Ujala Tandoori, Sardis, Northgate, Darlington; Brackenborough Hotel and Restaurant, Manville Terrace, Bradford. Dun Cow Inn, Sedgefield; The Orangery, Louth; Winteringham Field, Winteringham; Rockliffe Hall. Pipe and Glass, South Dalton, Beverley. COMING UP Bradford International Film Festival, COMING UP COMING UP National Media Museum, Apr 19-29; Record Fair, Middlesbrough Town Hall, EBA World and Masters Blackball,The Spa, Leeds Loves Food, various venues, May Apr 28; Teddy Bear Story, Museum of Bridlington, Mar 27-Apr 5; Hull Marathon 25-27; Yorkshire International Business Hartlepool, Jun 16-Sept 9; Heritage 2012, Apr 6; Beverley Early Music Festival, Convention, Wellington Place, Leeds, Festival, Hartlepool, Jul 7. May 24-26; Hull Carnival, Jun 9; Beverley Jun 15; Leeds Waterfront Festival, Jun Folk Festival, Jun 15-17. 30-Jul 1.

Airport 01325 332811 Airport 01652 688456 Airport 0113 250 9696 www.durhamteesvalleyairport.com www.humbersideairport.com www.leedsbradfordairport.co.uk Eastern Airways flights direct to Aberdeen. Eastern Airways flights direct to Aberdeen. Onward Eastern Airways flights direct to Aberdeen, Onward connections to Stavanger, Stornoway, connections to Stavanger, Stornoway, Wick Bristol. Onward connections to Stavanger, Wick Tourist/Local Info 01482 486600 Stornoway, Wick Tourist/Local Info www.visithullandeastyorkshire.com Tourist/Local Info 0113 242 5242 01642 729700 / 264957 www.visitlincolnshire.com www.leeds.gov.uk www.visitteesvalley.co.uk www.yorkshire.com www.leedsliveitloveit.com www.yorkshire.com 44

BARE ESSENTIALS : DESTINATIONS www.eastmidlandsairport.com www.experiencenottinghamshire www.visitderby.co.uk 01332 Tourist/Local connections toStavanger, Stornoway, Wick toAberdeen.Onward Airwaysflightsdirect Eastern Airport Food Nottingham, Night Derby Hot Loch Canal Nottingham Ye jewellery, Nottingham; Paul St Nottingham; Lace Quarter, cafe Park, Marian Cross; Nottingham hire short Eaton, Rail Nottingham, Twelve WHERE COMING UP COMING EATAT AT DRINK AT SHOP STAYAT VISIT EAST MIDLANDS EAST

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RHS Show Horsey Mere, Norfolk Broads Titanic 2012

WHERE WHERE WHERE Twelve miles west of Cardiff, 10 miles Three miles north of the city. Hourly bus Five miles north of city. Parkway Station from Junction 33 on M4. Rail link, every service into the city centre. Approx taxi beside terminal, three trains hourly to hour, connects airport to Cardiff Central fare to Norwich £7. For car hire see Southam­pton and London Waterloo. and Bridg­end. For car hire see Europcar Europcar info on back page. Buses hourly to the city. For car hire info on back page. see Europcar info on back page. VISIT VISIT Norwich Cathedral, The Close; Norwich VISIT Cardiff Castle; Wales Millennium Centre, Castle, Elm Hill; Sandringham Estate, Solent Sky, Hall of Aviation, Gilbert Cardiff Bay; Cardiff Bay Visitor Centre Norfolk; Norwich Puppet Theatre, Road South; Maritime Museum, Town ‘The Tube’, Harbour Drive; Norwegian Whitefriars, Norwich. Quay Rd; Spinnaker Tower, Portsmouth. Church Arts Centre, Cardiff Bay. STAY AT STAY AT STAY AT The Maids Head Hotel, Tombland; De Vere Montagu Arms, Beaulieu; The White Star Peterstone Court, in the Usk Valley; Dunston Hall Hotel & Golf Club, Ipswich Tavern and Dining Rooms, Oxford St; De St David’s Hotel & Spa, Havannah St, Rd; Marriott Sprowston Manor Hotel & Vere Grand Harbour Hotel, West Quay Rd; Cardiff Bay. Country Club; Barnham Broom Hotel & Chilworth Manor, Chilworth; Carey’s Spa, Honingham Rd. Manor, Brockenhurst. SHOP AT St Mary Street for specialist shops; Splott SHOP AT SHOP AT Market (weekends), SE of city centre. Jarrold’s, London Street; Soho Hip, WestQuay, city centre; Bargate Centre, Pottergate; Ginger Ladies Wear, Timberhill. East Bargate; Antiques quarter, Old DRINK AT Northern Rd; Gunwharf Quays, Pen and Wig, Park Grove; Park Vaults, DRINK AT Portsmouth. Park Place. The Fat Cat, West End St; The Adam & Eve, Bishopgate; The Wine Press, Woburn DRINK AT EAT AT Court, Guildhall Hill; The Last Wine Bar, The Dolphin, Osborne Road South; The Champers, St Mary’s Street; La Fosse, St Georges St. Frog and Frigate, Canute Rd; Ocean The Hayes; Bosphorus Turkish & Collins, Vincent’s Walk. Restaurant, Cardiff Bay. EAT AT Tatlers, Tombland; Mambo Jambo, EAT AT COMING UP Lower Goat Lane; Umberto’s Trattoria Olive Tree, Oxford St; P.O.S.H. 60 Portraits of The Queen, National Italia, St Benedicts St. Queensway; The Purbani, Botley. Museum Cardiff, until Apr 29; RHS Show, Bute Park, Apr 20-22; Cardiff COMING UP COMING UP International Food and Drink Festival, East Anglian Game & Country Fair, Norfolk Titanic 2012 – events include Retracing Cardiff Bay, Jul 6-8; London 2012 Showground, Norwich, Apr 28-29; Norfolk the Unsinkable open exhibition, Olympic Football, Millennium Stadium, and Norwich Festival, various venues, May Southampton City Art Gallery, until Apr 29; Jul-Aug. 11-26; Lord Mayor’s Celebration, Norwich Seawork 2012, marine and workboat city centre, Jul 5-8. event, May 22-24; Queen’s Diamond Jubilee celebrations, Jun 2-5.

Airport 01446 711111 Airport 01603 411923 Airport 0870 040 0009 www.cwlfly.com www.norwichairport.co.uk www.southamptonairport.com Eastern Airways flights direct to Aberdeen, Eastern Airways flights direct to Aberdeen. Onward Eastern Airways flights direct to Aberdeen, Newcastle. connections to Stavanger, Stornoway, Wick Brussels. Onward connections to Stavanger, Tourist/Local Info 0870 121 1258 Tourist/Local Info 01603 213999 Stornoway, Wick www.visitcardiff.com www.visitnorwich.co.uk Tourist/Local Info 023 8083 3333 www.southernwales.com www.visit-southampton.co.uk NATIONAL PARKS GUIDE

ESSENTIAL GUIDE ESSENTIAL

Britain’s national parks have been celebrating their 60th birthdays – this year it’s the turn of England’s North York Moors and the Pembrokeshire Coast, in Wales. The legislation that enabled our national parks was passed in 1949 and the first national parks, the Lake District and the Peak, were created two years later amid the post-war optimism that also created the NHS.

Our national parks are not nationalised, or wild and untamed in the way, say, American national parks are – they are living landscapes with living communities. And they are – in the words of the Association of National Park Authorities – “Britain’s breathing spaces”. Our 15 national parks are the very best of our protected areas, which also include 40 Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, in England and Wales, and 40 National Scenic Areas, in Scotland. The European Day of Parks, on May 24, celebrates all the continent’s protected landscapes and marks the anniversary of the first nine national parks in Europe, created in 1909 in Sweden.

North of England NORTHUMBERLAND minds for at least the 210 years since the eastern seaward edge, the park The Northumberland National Park, Wordsworth wrote his Daffodils; a little terminates in cliffs that include the comes in three parts – the rugged longer since Turner gave it his moody tallest in England. volcanic cliffs of the Whin Sill treatment. The Lake District can be Honeypot Robin Hood’s Bay. surmounted by the Roman Wall, in the what you want it to be: green and Far from the Madding Crowd The old south, the wild empty Cheviot Hills to serene on the shores of Windermere or railway south of Robin Hood’s Bay is the north, and the forest and farmland Derwentwater, or dark and dangerous not an official walking route but offers that lie in between. By far the least on the flanks of Scafell or Great Gable. great views over the North Sea. populated of all our parks – much It very probably has more lovely country Nearest Eastern Airways airports – Durham Tees of the wilder countryside is shared house hotels than anywhere in the UK. Valley and Leeds Bradford with the Ministry of Defence which, Honeypot Bowness on Windermere. paradoxically, has ensured little has Far from the Madding Crowd The THE YORKSHIRE DALES changed here. narrow path etched into the screes on The archetypal Yorkshire Dales picture Honeypot The Roman Wall around the southern shore of Wastwater. combines rich green meadows full of Once Brewed, though it’s all relative! Nearest Eastern Airways airports – Newcastle, flowers, divided by silver-grey limestone Far from the Madding Crowd Only 12 Durham Tees Valley and Leeds Bradford walls, each with its own little stone access permits are issued daily by barn, all watched over by brooding fells. Wooler agent Sale and Partners (www. NORTH YORK MOORS Swaledale in the north, and Wharfedale saleandpartners.co.uk) for cars to enter The park is edged by the Cleveland and Littondale to the south, are most the College Valley, on the north side of Hills, offering fine views over the Vale of typically pretty. The majestic Settle Cheviot. York to the Dales, or across Teesside, & Carlisle railway strides across the tolia.com

Fo to the north. Behind the hills is rich fellsides and its remote stations mean Nearest Eastern Airways Airport – Newcastle - www.nationalparks.gov.uk heather-clad moorland dissected by you can do a linear walk and still get www.europarc.org steep-sided wooded valleys, home to home easily.

Hughes THE LAKE DISTRICT The most alluring of the English parks romantic ruined abbeys, like Rievaulx, Honeypot Malham Cove.

46 David has been inspiring our most creative Byland and Mount Grace. And at Far from the Madding Crowd Climb up The Broads

East and South England Cautley Spout waterfall onto the Howgill THE BROADS of the chalk downs and neighbouring Fells, eastern offshoots of the Lake The only “national park” that isn’t actually wooded sandstone hills of The Weald District. called a national park, the Broads from relentless urban pressures. Its Nearest Eastern Airways airports – Durham Tees Authority is responsible for navigation, as crowning glories are the main ridge of the Valley and Leeds Bradford well as the usual conservation, planning Downs, traversed by the South Downs • See Exploration Express pages 32-33 and recreation issues. It was only as Way, the rich woodlands of Weald, and recently as the 1960s that it was proved hidden houses and villages that remain THE PEAK the Broads were “artificial” features, locked in another age. It was fitting that this should be our very created by the flooding of medieval peat Honeypot Arundel. first national park: the Kinder Scout digging – Norwich Cathedral plundered Far from the Madding Crowd Gaze mass trespass movement in the 1930s, 320,000 tonnes of peat a year! The result, out to sea where the Downs meet the asserting the right to roam freely on open however, is a vast and wonderful wetland, English Channel, on the South Downs moorland, led directly to the legislation with 125 miles of navigable waterway. Way west of Eastbourne. that created the parks. The Pennine Way Honeypot Wroxham. Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Southampton heads north from Edale, through the Far from the Madding Crowd An electric • See Downs feature pages 22-25 gritstone peaks, while, south of Edale boat trip at How Hill Nature Reserve. is a dramatically sculpted limestone Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Norwich NEW FOREST landscape. Can be busy! Created by William the Conqueror as Honeypot Castleton. SOUTH DOWNS his personal hunting ground in 1079, Far from the Madding Crowd The The newest and in some respects the landscape of the New Forest was Roaches area in the Staffordshire part most controversial national park was shaped by common grazing rights for of the park has great views and a less first mooted as long ago as the 1920s cattle, pigs, and the iconic local ponies tamed feel, though the celebrated local as bulwark against the development since the Middle Ages. Commoners’ wallabies may have died out. pressures on the area. Its eventual rights are still protected by the Court of Nearest Eastern Airways airports – East Midlands, designation last year is a victory for those Verderers, set up in the 19th century, Birmingham seeking to protect as much as possible and it’s this ancient system of land >> >> TNPA LL

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management that makes the forest so park claims the highest number of different PEMBROKESHIRE COAST special – and why it finally became a landforms outside arctic Canada and five Several of our national parks have a national park in 2005. Its habitats support of the six highest mountains in Scotland, coastline, but the Pembrokeshire Coast many rare and endangered species, including Ben Macdui, once thought to be claims to be the only true coastal national including snakes and lizards, and are home higher than Ben Nevis. Much of the park is park. It’s a land of rocky peninsulas and to the only cicada found in Britain. high mountain plateau and 25 per cent of it offshore islands, while the Pembrokeshire Honeypot Lyndhurst. is “of European importance”. Coast National Trail winds 186 miles by Far from the Madding Crowd Fritham Plain, Honeypot Balmoral and Royal Deeside sandy coves and wide open sands that are in the north west of the park, near the 17th Far from the Madding Crowd Take the long the haunt of kite surfers and sand yachters. century Royal Oak pub. walk in from Braemar to the summit of Ben Not for the faint-hearted, it comprises an Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Southampton. Macdui (a day’s return walk in summer). Everest and quarter’s worth of climbing. Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Aberdeen Honeypot Tenby. EXMOOR Far from the Madding Crowd Take a boat Another national park with its own pony, LOCH LOMOND AND THE to Skomer, Caldey or Ramsey island. Exmoor is a much richer and more varied TROSSACHS Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Cardiff landscape than its name suggests, Another national park for which 2012 is an with wonderful ancient woodland, the anniversary year, though in this case July highest beech forest in England and a 19 will mark just its first decade. Don’t be Norway dramatic coastline of high cliffs, beneath fooled by the name, the park contains 21 which fishing towns and villages inhabit larger lochs, besides Loch Lomond, which FOLGEFONNA a different world. Take the cliff railway is itself the largest expanse of fresh water This is the nearest national park to between Lynton and Lynmouth. in Britain and, in Inchmurrin, boasts the Stavanger, served by Eastern Airways Honeypot Dunster. largest island in freshwater in the British flights, and is the country’s 25th and Far from the Madding Crowd Hameldon Isles. It also is home to 21 Munros, or newest park, opened in 2005. Situated Ridge. peaks over 3,000ft, including Ben Lomond, near the mouth of the Hardanger Fjord, its Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Bristol the most southerly such mountain. most dramatic feature is the Folgefonna Honeypot Balloch, with its steamer pier. Glacier, the country’s third largest. Scotland Far from the Madding Crowd The www.nasjonalparksenter.no/ eastern shore of Loch Lomond, around folgefonnanps/en Rowardennan. Scotland was a latecomer to the national Nearest Eastern Airways Airport – Glasgow parks scene, with Loch Lomond and the Belgium Trossachs, and the Cairngorms designated only in 2002 and 2003 respectively. Wales Belgium boasts one and a half national Although talk continues of more parks, parks – The Hoge Kempen National Park none is imminent. Most eagerly sought by BRECON BEACONS is the first National Park in Flanders and local people is a national park for the Isle of Quite different from the rugged drama of is located in a former mining area in the Harris. However, the Scottish Government Snowdonia, in the north of the country, east of the Province of Limburg. Opened says it won’t act so long as Comhairle the Black Mountains, at the heart of the in March 2006, it comprises mostly nan Eilean Siar (Western Isles Council) national park, have generally gentler heathland and pine forest. De Zoom - continues to oppose the idea. contours, though several peaks approach Kalmthoutse Heide, is a Belgian-Dutch 3,000ft. The park is rich in Neolithic, Iron cross-border park, of which the best Age and more recent remains. A section of THE CAIRNGORMS known part is in the north of the province This huge national park is perhaps Offa’s Dyke is within its boundaries of Antwerp. It is a rich natural reserve, the nearest we get in this country to Honeypot Crickhowell. with many pools, heathland, inland dunes “wilderness” national parks of the USA or Far from the Madding Crowd Hay Bluff: and large areas of forest. Canada, and it has the threatened species feels like the roof of the world! 48 and special landscapes to match. The Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Cardiff WIN A LUXURY BREAK IN THE YORKSHIRE DALES

L-R: View over Wharfedale - Devonshire Fell; The Dog Lounge - Devonshire Arms; The Devonshire Arms Country House Hotel In this national parks-themed issue, Eastern Airways Magazine has teamed up with Devonshire Hotels in the Yorkshire Dales and Europcar to offer one lucky reader and a companion the opportunity to experience this glorious part of England staying in supreme comfort on the Bolton Abbey Estate.

The prize includes two nights’ accommodation with full English For your chance to win this wonderful short break, just answer the breakfast and dinner on one evening, plus free access to the following question? facilities of the Devonshire Health Barn and the Bolton Abbey Estate. Also return Eastern Airways flights to Leeds Bradford are In which National Park is the Duke of Devonshire’s Bolton available if required as is complimentary hire car from Europcar. Abbey Estate? The lucky winner can choose between the Devonshire Fell, at Send you answer to [email protected], with Burnsall, with its contemporary interiors and breathtaking views, Bolton Abbey in the subject field. Please provide name, address or the Devonshire Arms Country House Hotel, in its parkland and phone number and the flight number and date of your last setting at the southern edge of the Bolton Abbey Estate. Both flight with Eastern Airways. Or send on a postcard to Gravity, Imex hotels allow you complimentary access to explore the estate Business Centre (Bizspace), Abbey Road, Pity me, Durham, DH1 with its 80 miles of footpaths and trails, the ruins of a12th century 5JZ. Closing date May 25. Augustinian Priory, the pretty village of Bolton Abbey and the Prize is subject to availability and includes free use of The therapeutic and relaxing facilities of the Devonshire Health Barn. Devonshire Health Barn at Bolton Abbey with spa, gym, pool, Stay in a lovely double bedroom, full of comfort and recently Jacuzzi, steam room and sauna, tennis and cycle hire plus refurbished in designs chosen by the Duchess of Devonshire. complimentary pass to the Bolton Abbey Estate. Luxury beauty Enjoy delicious food by talented chefs using produce from the therapy is available – treatments to be paid for. Europcar offer is estate and the hotels’ kitchen garden – two AA rosettes fine dining only available to winners who also require flights. at The Devonshire Fell, or choose between the lively Bar Brasserie Prize to be taken by November 24, 2012. or Michelin starred four AA rosette Burlington restaurant at The www.devonshirehotels.co.uk www.europcar.co.uk Devonshire Arms. BELOW: A walk along the riverbank from The Devonshire Arms, Bolton Abbey

Eastern Airways flies to Leeds Bradford from Aberdeen and Bristol

THE LAST WORD with Harry Pearson FISH GO DEEPER THAN YOU THINK

When I was a kid, my Aunt The problem with listening to Nancy had a tank of tropical wildlife experts is that their fish – black molly, guppies, subject, whether it’s blowflies angelfish – in the front room of or koala bears, has almost her house in Redcar. She gave always beguiled them. People them all names and said she who study or work with could watch them for hours. animals always come to like “They’re better than anything and admire them. You’d no on the telly,” she used to say. more come across a zoologist And given that the highlight of saying “I have devoted 20 years Saturday night viewing in those to analysing the life of this days was The Val Doonican monumentally thick, vicious and Show, she was probably right. robustly unhygienic creature and I just hope that it will soon If anyone asked my Aunt Nancy be extinct” than you would a if the fish had enough space dog-breeder who describes his to move around, her reply was or her chosen hound as “surly, automatic: “Oh yes,” she’d untrustworthy and a menace to say, “You see, they only have a children”. memory of five seconds.” My father was no naturalist, but The fish, it seemed, swam to he did devote far more of his one end of the aquarium and by spare time to thinking about the time they had got there they fish than was strictly necessary. had forgotten everything they He was a trout fisherman. And had seen. As a result, this small he was convinced his chosen boxful of water in a house on quarry could think. He even Teesside was to them as infinite attributed human motivation to and fascinating as the universe. trout. I recall one angling trip to the west of Ireland when my That fish have an incredibly father, convinced that the trout short memory is a fact leaping all around our boat well known to everyone. were mocking him for being Unfortunately, like many well English (in fairness, it should known facts, it seems this one be said that the Irishman in the is not true. Several years ago “FISH ARE MORE caravan next to ours came back researchers at the Australian every evening with a netful), Veterinary Association produced INTELLIGENT THAN THEY took a swing at one of them evidence that blew the five- with his walking stick. “If you second-memory idea right out APPEAR. IN MANY AREAS, want to catch a fish you have of the water. Nowadays the to put yourself in its position,” generally held view is that fish THEIR COGNITIVE my father would often tell me, have a memory span of at least something he did quite literally a few months. POWERS MATCH OR on that occasion, falling out of the boat and into the lough. “I spend half my life telling EXCEED THOSE OF people fish aren’t stupid,” Dr “A fish wants regular food with Culum Brown, co-author of Fish ‘HIGHER’ VERTEBRATES” limited risk and a minimum Cognition and Behaviour, has outlay of energy,” my dad used

tolia.com said. According to Dr Brown, to say. By those criteria my Fo

/ a specialist in fish behaviour at Macquarie University, Aunt Nancy’s tank was a much better place for them than the Sydney, “Fish are more intelligent than they appear. In many ocean, however small it was. Though my father’s record as nenko Ty areas, such as memory, their cognitive powers match or an angler suggests he knew more about the habits of rusted exceed those of ‘higher’ vertebrates, including non-human bicycle frames and old tyres than he did those of any living Vadym primates.” creature. ©

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free toattendforallwitha business Exhibition andConference Centre, is All-Energy 2012,atAberdeen with hydrogen refuelling system. Low CarbonVehicle area complete microgeneration schemes; andthe or installon-siterenewables, orsmaller energy efficiency, energy management, 23-24 MAY 2012, ABERDEEN, UK vertising: Liz Reekie Reekie Liz Advertising: Allen Barbara Design: Abbott Stan Publisher: www.gravity-consulting.com Tel: +44(0)1913832838. Pity Me, Durham, DH1 5JZ. Published for Eastern Airways by Gravity Magazines, Abbey Business Centre, © March-June 2012. www.easternairways.com www.easternairways.com 2012. March-June © 1477-3031 ISSN: Press Buxton Print: e-mail: [email protected] Telephone: www.all-energy.co.uk/ea Free registration at the GiantNetworkingEvening. stream conference, theexhibitionand – thisincludestheworld-classmulti- or professional interest inrenewables THE ALL-ENERGY TEAM ALL-ENERGY THE

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It’s no wonder that All-Energy, the UK’s largest renewable energy exhibition and conference has been referred to as the “AGM of the industry”. Held every May at Aberdeen Exhibition and Conference Centre (AECC), year-on-year it has seen growing numbers of attendees, exhibitors, conference sessions and speakers. There is an incredible buzz throughout the show – proof of the enthusiasm and drive within this rapidly expanding industry.

It’s an event you need to attend if industry, or grid issues, power storage, you to make good use of your time. you are wondering about your own or government initiatives; to hear of These cover: wave and tidal; onshore company’s energy usage and how to business opportunities in the nuclear wind; bioenergy; investment; smart improve energy efficiency; if you are a industry, or the current state of play energy; solar energy; offshore wind; key link in an ever-expanding supply in carbon capture and storage; and offshore maintenance; renewable heat; chain serving the various sectors – to hear from senior ministers from jobs; and low carbon transport. The wind (both on and offshore), wave and both the Westminster and Holyrood trails will feature on the website and tidal, hydro, bioenergy in all its guises, governments. Charles Hendry, Minister be available as floorplans, helping you hydrogen and fuel cells, geothermal, of State for Energy at DECC and to plan your visit in advance. Online onsite renewables, microgeneration; or Fergus Ewing, Minister for Energy, preview material will help you identify if you work with a utility, developer or Enterprise and Tourism in the Scottish many of the products and services you are a landowner, farmer or community Government, will deliver keynote want to see, or hear about, at first hand. leader. addresses on opening morning. Then too you can visit the “shows- You need to be there if you want Sector-specific trails will guide you within-a-show”: Offshore Maintenance – iv to learn about financing within the round the 600-exhibitor show, enabling where offshore wind meets oil and gas; DIVERSIFICATION IS THE WAY FORWARD The expertise gathered over more than 40 years, which has made the UK a global leader in the oil and gas industry, will be critical to its efforts to capitalise on the new international opportunities created by the revolution in renewable energy. ALL-ENERGY DESTINATION

The diversification into renewables by major players in oil and gas, like Wood Group and Technip, is helping build confidence in the future of the new sector.

Gary Webster, Development Director for Wood Group Renewables, says: “The parallels between the oil and gas sector and the renewables industry are significant and the UK is well positioned to lead the world into a greener future.

“Forty years ago, Wood Group was at the forefront of North Sea oil production before evolving into today’s worldwide energy service company, providing engineering and project management services to customers in more than 50 countries.

“With the advent of renewable energy, we see an opportunity to apply the expertise and experience that has been nurtured over the past 40 years to the next era of world energy production.

“Wood Group intends to play its part by bringing the efficiencies developed in the oil and gas industry into the offshore wind industry, helping to drive down the costs of the renewables industry and secure the long-term energy future of the UK.”

Last year, First Minister Alex Salmond formally launched Technip’s offshore wind business, headquartered in Aberdeenshire. The company had earlier acquired the assets of the Subocean Group, a UK market leader in underwater cable-laying for offshore wind projects. Smart Energy for energy efficiency, conference programme is online and management, onsite renewables or all sessions are free to attend. Technip is a world-leading project manage- smaller microgeneration schemes; ment, engineering and construction business, and the Low Carbon Transport Networking is vital. Day One ends and Mr Salmond welcomed the decision to area, with HFuel Here, ITM Power’s with Aberdeen City Council’s locate the offshore wind HQ in Aberdeen as hydrogen refuelling system. Welcome Reception and the All- recognition of the leading role Scotland is Energy Giant Networking Evening, playing in the development and deployment of Time spent in the conference is which does just what it “says on the leading-edge, clean energy generation. invaluable – there are 50 sessions; tin” and is viewed by many as the and a programme of associated best networking event they have been Technip has signed a Memorandum of meetings that cover every renewable to in any industry. Again, it is free to Understanding with Iberdrola – which has its energy source, as well as the attend and, like everything else, is global offshore wind base in Glasgow – for challenges and opportunities within under AECC’s roof. developments off the French coast. the various sectors. Nothing beats GRAEME SMITH listening to the people involved day- Register online today! to-day with their industry. The full www.all-energy.co.uk/ea v ONE PARTNER FOR LIFE.

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www.storktechnicalservices.com Theproject isnotwithout magnetasa forinward investment. renewablesinfrastructure andact ofinvestment inScotland’s delivermore than £200 million Theproject isexpected to technology. infrastructureandother related offshorewind turbines, support upto11next-generation agreementtotest and demonstrate awardeditanexclusivity TheCrown Estate hasalso to€40million ofEuropean funding. Technip,andhas been awarded up engineeringand construction major ofelectricity and–subsea Europe’ssixth largest generator industrypartners Vattenfall – EOWDCjointisa venture with projects. (EOWDC)asoneofits flagship OffshoreWind Deployment Centre yearsagoand has the European partnership,which wasformed 11 EnergyGroup private-publica– The–Aberdeen Renewable Championingthat effort isAREG renewables. developmentofoffshore majoradvantage forthe successful givesAberdeen City andShire a innovationandentrepreneurship, globallyrecognised reputation for gasexpertise, combined with its Thewealth ofworld-class oiland OperatingOfficer AREG’sChief MoragMcCorkindale, RENEWABLES CHAMPIONING However, northofAberdeen. golfcourse hehascreated tothe visiblefrom thenew world-class opposedtoitbecause itwill be billionairedeveloper, isvehemently controversyDonald– Trump, the morethan posedlocation, wasselected after renewableenergy sector.” forefrontfastofa growing offshore achievestronga position atthe withintheoil and gas industry, to whathasalready been achieved significantopportunity tobuild on AberdeenCity andShire and–a tantforthe future economy of EOWDCisstrategically impor ChiefOperating Officer, said: “The MoragMcCorkindale, AREG’s Future. AberdeenCity andShire Economic andeconomic development body, GrampianChamber ofCommerce; HarbourBoard; Aberdeen and TechnologyPartnership; Aberdeen ing;RenewableUK; theEnergy roleinsecuring theEUfund Centre,which played keya ScottishEuropean Green Energy are:Scottish Enterprise; the Amongadvocates oftheproject associatedstudies. asenvironmental, technical and AberdeenCity andShire, as well localpeople andbusinesses in tionwith stakeholders, including AberdeenBay, thepro sixyears ofconsulta - - - - n realistic marine training environment possible. which have been developed to provide the most Safety Training Centre has extensive facilities,Renewable Power and Narec. The Marine between Northumberland College, Mainstream Regional Development Agency, One North East) collaborative training partnership (backed by tower opened in 2010 and is the result of a n with US insurer, Willis Group Holdings. investment specialist Ashberg – is now working Renewable Energy Centre (Narec) and London – a link-up between the Blyth-based National in the low carbon energy sector. Narec Capital giant to help take the risk out of new schemes has teamed up with an international insurance n European market for photovoltaic panels. in Jarrow, which he aims to use to target the Solar. Jasjit Ahluwalia has opened a factory year solar panel manufacturing plant, Sunfest 60 jobs on Tyneside with the launch of a £5m-a- renewable energy technology in Asia, is to create n gigawatt of wind capacity in French waters. part of a consortium bidding to provide nearly 1 wind projects from a new centre in Scotland, is company, Iberdrola, which manages its offshore French renewable energy. ScottishPower parent bidding to break into the fast-growing market for n technology centre in Glasgow. of UK ports as well as setting up its offshore is engaging in offshore logistics from a number of a blade manufacturing plant in the UK, and the North Sea. Gamesa plans the construction in planned offshore wind power development in (G11X-5.0 MW and G14X-7.0 MW), to participate development of two offshore turbine families technology, is working on the design and n power transformers. offshore substation consisting of two step-up grid code compliance and supply a high-voltage prepare a detailed electrical system design with contract, Mumbai-based Crompton Greaves will Humber Gateway offshore wind farm. Under the onshore and offshore substations at the 219-MW been awarded a contract to supply and install

A venture to finance renewable energy projects Narec’s 27m high wind turbine training An Indian businessman, who pioneered Glasgow-based offshore wind experts are Gamesa, a global leader in wind energy Engineering major Crompton Greaves has four-day marine safety Power Solutions who training programme, Engineers from Dale at Narec, and South have completed a Tyneside College

vii DESTINATION ALL-ENERGY viii DESTINATION ALL-ENERGY WELCOME RENEWABLES CAPITAL RENEWABLES achievedglobal recognition for its work in wave marinerenewables research since 1995 and has RobertGordon University has been involved in CleanTechnology at Robert Gordon University. AlanOwen is Chair in Renewable Energy and theNorthern Research Partnership, of which Dr onengineering and related disciplines through Aberdeen,and Dundee University collaborate RobertGordon University, the University of orvisit.” andcompetitive destination to live and work in, Shire’sposition as a world-class energy hub energycredentials to assure Aberdeen City and “Itis vital that we continue to capitalise on our thousandsof visitors. asOffshore Europe and All-Energy attract opportunities,while international events such significantinward investment and employment havetheir headquarters here, ensuring thanfour decades. Hundreds of companies region’seconomy and that of the UK for more oiland gas industry has underpinned the economicdevelopment in the area, said: “The publicpartnership charged with driving TomSmith, Chairman of ACSEF, the private- ofoffshore wind technology. andplace north east Scotland in the vanguard developmentof offshore wind power in Europe Commission,which will enable the accelerated inAberdeen Bay, backed by the European Alsoimportant is a planned 11-turbine windfarm ifthese targets are to be met. renewableenergy technology, which is essential theresearch being carried out worldwide into GordonUniversity are significant players in Boththe University of Aberdeen and Robert centof its heat by 2020. 100per cent of Scotland's electricity and 11 per renewablesources generating the equivalent of ScottishGovernment is clear – it wants to see opportunity,and the commitment of the steppingup their interest in this new Thebig players in oil and gas are gradually EXPERTISE IS THERE IS EXPERTISE global renewable energy centre,globalrenewable writes energy a tobecomeposition pole in yearshavecity 40 the put now developedover morethan expertise and capital.skills The gasandEuropeanlongestablished the is oil as Aberdeen 23-24 MAY 2012, ABERDEEN, UK makethem want to stay.” “Therehas to be something here for them to unstoppableprocess. andwhen it starts to leave that will become an isfading, the big capability will start to leave, forever.Once it starts to look like oil and gas dryup tomorrow, nor are they going to be there “TheNorth Sea oil reserves are not going to needsto continue to exploit it. windor tidal. Aberdeen has that expertise and it andgas related or whether it is offshore wave or mattertoo much whether that engineering is oil engineeringin a marine context. It doesn’t industry,but essentially its expertise is really “Aberdeenas a city deals with the oil and gas anaerobicdigestion. relatingto offshore wind, solar, thermal and andtidal power, but is also involved in work monitoring.” becausewe do the underpinning research and universitywill obviously benefit immensely needto be there to make money out of it. The happen,and if it is going to happen they “Theyare starting to realise it is going to thatenvironment, so why waste it? ortidal. They have the experience of working in offshoreenergy arena, whether it is wind, wave arestarting to expand their operations into the nowthe likes of Petrofac and Wood Group beenindependent of utility companies, but isa growing area,” he said. “It has traditionally “Aberdeen is a significant player and renewables supergrid to be developed. directcurrent technology to enable a European transport,to major research on high voltage, Itranges from the health impacts of green physicalsciences and medical and life sciences. threeof its colleges – arts and social sciences, isinvolved in renewables research across all Environmentand Society, said the university Universityof Aberdeen’s School of Resources, ProfessorPaul Mitchell, Head of the SIGNIFICANT PLAYER SIGNIFICANT GraemeSmith ProfessorPaul Mitchell DrAlan Owen TomSmith