KLATSKY JOINS EQUITY FIRM/2 YURMAN’S WEDDING MARCH/15 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • October 10, 2005 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear King Louis

By Miles Socha PARIS — The world’s largest Louis Vuitton store, christened here during the climax of Paris Fashion Week, doesn’t feel that big at all. Which is the whole point, according to Vuitton chief executive officer Yves Carcelle. “It’s completely against the idea of gigantism. We want it to be an intimate promenade,” he said Sunday morning, giving WWD the first walk-through of the sumptuous 20,500-square-foot boutique in a landmark building on the Champs Elysées. Indeed, beyond the soaring atrium at the entrance — flanked by a Donald Judd-like arrangement of red trunks that signals more art is to come — and then a vast room some early visitors likened to a cathedral, are a series of human- scale rooms devoted to Vuitton’s ever-expanding range of products. “We don’t want people to be stressed by the size,” Carcelle said. “It’s all about little rooms you discover one after the other.” Still, Vuitton’s ceo trumpeted the store as a new must-visit attraction in the City of Lights and a showcase that is bound to have a global impact on the world’s biggest luxury brand, already riding high at a heady time for the sector. And Vuitton’s roll continued at its high-energy show Sunday night, where Marc Jacobs presented one of the standout collections of the season for the house. (For more on the collection, see page 4.) Although Carcelle declined to talk numbers, sources estimate the unit should generate annual sales of between See Vuitton’s, Page10

Marc Jacobs' bright jacket and shorts for Louis Vuitton PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 10, 2005 WWD.COM NYC Retail Deals With Terror Threat WWDMONDAY By Sharon Edelson That wasn’t the case at are actually pretty jazzed that Charlotte Russe at the Manhattan they get to watch somebody on Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear NEW YORK — The terror threat Mall on Sixth Avenue between TV. And being in Times Square, against New York City’s subway 32nd and 33rd Streets. “Our busi- there’s cops out here every day system disrupted business in a ness definitely was hindered due anyway so it’s really no big deal. FASHION Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Yves Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Valentino and few stores over the weekend but to the terror threat,” said Jennifer I mean, I think [the customers] Lanvin were among the top collections as the spring shows continued in Paris. had little widespread impact. Coccarelli, manager. “We could are probably concerned but they 4 Federal and local officials have done a lot better based on have to live, you know?” went public on Thursday with the business the week before. A Business was off at several GENERAL news of a plot to detonate bombs lot of people on line to pay were stores at the Shops at Columbus Louis Vuitton is unveiling a 20,500-square-foot boutique in a landmark in the city’s subways. While fed- trying to get to work or home Center, which is served by a 1 building on the Champs Elysées. eral officials were initially doubt- faster than usual. They didn’t major subway station right out- ful of the credibility of the infor- want to travel during certain side its door. Bruce Klatsky, former ceo of Phillips-Van Heusen, has become a partner in mation, both Mayor Michael times of the day. They didn’t want “We noticed that traffic was 2 a new private equity firm called LNK Partners. Bloomberg and Police Comm- to use mass transit.” down in the store on Friday,” said EYE: Sipping lemonade with singer Gabby La La…Talking with Atom Agayan, issioner Raymond Kelly said se- A subway station beneath the Michelle Ewell, a J. Crew staffer. 24 whose new film, “Where the Truth Lies,” is out Friday…Chic of the Week. curity will be racheted up in the mall where the A, B, C, D, F, 1, 2 “People were talking about the subway system indefinitely. and 3 trains converge, had a large subway and how they’re more Obituaries...... 23 Classified Advertisements ...... 21-23 At Zale’s on West 34th Street, police presence on Friday, which afraid to take the subway. You Illiana Carrera, assistant manag- Coccarelli said was reassuring. definitely noticed that the traffic To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is er, said Sunday that employees Lisa Rosenthal, associate di- was a lot lower. We get a lot of [email protected], using the individual’s name. were more concerned than cus- rector of the 34th Street people coming down from the WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. tomers. “We were talking about Partnership, tried to put a posi- Upper West Side on the subway. VOLUME 190, NO. 76. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one it,” she said. “We are just trying tive spin on the events. “New Business picked up on Saturday. additional issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional issues in February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. to be cautious. We’re looking at Yorkers are resilient and are We tend to get a lot of traffic PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. every package that comes into trying to go about leading their when it’s raining out.” Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice the store. Today I had a ride to normal lives.” Angie Vargas, a supervisor at President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice President_Chief work. I was relieved that I didn’t Foot traffic around the major Crabtree & Evelyn, said, “We Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. have to take the train. I’m just department stores in the city had a lot of police — about eight Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. trying to be alert.” seemed to be at normal levels or 10 cops — outside the subway Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box Carrera said business on over the weekend. station. Maybe that scared peo- 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE Saturday was very slow, but she The manager of the Gap in ple off. I noticed that the trains INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed attributed it to the rainy weather. Times Square felt an impact on weren’t as packed as they usual- on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. Stan Rossel, vintage manager Friday. “To be honest, it wasn’t a ly are. The subway cars were First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and at Tourneau on West 34th Street, happy day — that’s really what the empty. I myself was really nerv- production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other said he hasn’t seen any impact. environment felt like,” she said. ous. I guess there is an impact.” Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to “It’s really tough to tell,” he The store manager at Hugo Boss, on the other hand, carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615- said. “We have days when we’re Quiksilver in Times Square said, saw sales increase. “We’ve seen a 5008 or call 800-289-0273. up and days when we’re down. “I haven’t really noticed any af- pretty good increase on the week- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND We haven’t had any day out of fect here because we’re so busy. end,” said a salesman. “I don’t at- TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART the ordinary. We have a lot of Considering there’s been a Fox tribute it to the terror threats.” WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE tourists coming in and nobody’s News tent outside of our store — With contributions from ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. even talked about it.” every day, I think [the tourists] Bryn Kenny MONDAY: Paris Ready-to-Wear Collections continue (through Tuesday). Los Angeles Majors Market and ISAM, Los Angeles Klatsky to Partner in Private Equity Firm (through Wednesday). TUESDAY: Dress Barn reports fourth-quarter and By Jean E. Palmieri company are H. Christopher Frigon, formerly a year-end sales and earnings. principal at Crimson Investment LLC, a middle- NEW YORK — Retirement didn’t last long for market private equity firm focused on consumer THURSDAY: The U.S. Commerce Department releases Bruce Klatsky. products and industrial equipment, and Bethany the August foreign trade report. The former chief executive officer of Phillips- Zangrillo, director of operations, who was formerly Van Heusen has surfaced as a partner in a new pri- with Gartner Inc., a technology research and advi- FRIDAY: The Commerce Department releases the vate equity firm called LNK Partners, which is ex- sory firm. September retail sales report. pected to be involved in the acquisition of retail Klatsky did not return calls to comment last week. The U.S. Labor Department releases the Consumer and apparel companies. In June, Klatsky, 56, turned the reins of PVH Price Index for September. Klatsky, who officially stepped down from PVH over to Mark Weber, his longtime number two and at its annual meeting in June, is now working with the company’s former president and chief operat- SUNDAY: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Los Angeles two former executives of Apax Partners, the private ing officer. Klatsky had spent 33 years at the com- (through Oct. 20). equity firm that owns 38 percent of PVH and helped pany, the final 12 as chairman and ceo. In addition COMING THIS WEEK finance the company’s 2003 purchase of Calvin to the Calvin Klein deal, he was also instrumental Klein Inc. They are David Landau, who was on the in the acquisitions of Izod, Gant, Bass and Arrow. board of PVH until stepping down in June, and When announcing his impending departure Henry Nasella, who joined Apax after a successful from PVH in March, Klatsky said he planned to In Brief retail career that included posts as president and focus much of his attention on Human Rights chief operating officer of Staples and chairman and Watch, an independent, nongovernmental organi- ceo of Star Markets, a regional supermarket chain. zation he has been involved with for a decade. He ● DOTTI BOUGHT: Kellwood’s selling spree continues. The $2 Other principals in the White Plains, N.Y.–based continues to serve on the group’s board. billion firm has sold its Dotti private label brand intimates busi- ness to A.H. Schrieber Co. Inc., a swimwear firm based here. Financial terms of the sale were not disclosed, but the company said in a statement that key Dotti personnel at Kellwood have Some of your best customers will always be slow payers. joined A.H. Schrieber to keep building the brand. Kellwood has But if they’re forcing you to sit on your Unlike most other Factors, Sterling has all sold its David Brooks brand to Hampshire Group Ltd., an appar- receivables, you can’t be maximizing your the resources of a full-service bank. Count on el manufacturer based in Anderson, S.C. The core design and opportunities. us for everything from asset based lending, sales team that had been responsible for overseeing David Brooks within Kellwood will remain with the business. At Sterling, we help clients leverage equipment leasing, letters of credit, receivables to keep cash flowing and business international trade finance and more. ● M&S LOOKS EAST: Marks & Spencer is to open two apparel growing. For a confidential evaluation of how we can stores in Russia this fall, the company said. The first store, at meet your working capital requirements more Our client relationships are up-close, personal, 13,000 square feet, will open later this month and will be located and long-term. We work hard to become a cost-effectively, call or email us today. in the Festival Mall in southwest Moscow. The second store, at valued stakeholder in every client’s business. 9,000 square feet, will open in November in the Mega Mall in Moscow’s suburbs. The company is considering opening a third STERLING NATIONAL BANK store in Moscow, but a spokeswoman said no deal has been STERLING FACTORS CORPORATION signed. Marks & Spencer will also open a 60,000-square-foot W ORKING CAPITAL. WORKING HARDER. store in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, next fall, in a develop- John LaLota, Executive Vice President Robert Schnitzer, Dir. of Business Development ment that is currently under construction. The store will be op- erated by the Al Futtaim Group, Marks & Spencer’s franchisee Sterling Factors Corporation Sterling National Bank in the Gulf. “We’re always looking at openings around the world EST.1929 (212)575-4415 (212)575-4446 FDIC where our offer would do well,” said the M&S spokeswoman. NYSE: STL [email protected] [email protected] Time Is on Your Side! Put your brand in a setting that’s truly flattering. PHOTO BY DAN WEISS PHOTO BY DAN WWD Jewelry & Watches in Depth Section II: November 21 Close: November 3

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For more information, contact Alix Michel, associate publisher, accessories, at 212-630-4596, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 4 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 10, 2005 Sportif Style and Eighties’ F Sporty, masculine-feminine looks; bright, brash clothes reminiscent of the Greed Decade, and chic tailored pieces all played importan

Chanel: Coco meets James Dean. So read the translucent band that fastened the pile of photographs inside Karl Lagerfeld’s press kit for his spring Chanel show. Qu’est — ce que c’est — a butched-up garçon? Perhaps, but the backdrop at the Grand Palais was a shirred bubblegum pink curtain behind a huge CC-logoed computer screen. A multitude of messages? Mais oui. Since Lagerfeld first put boys on the runway several season ago, he toyed with gender-bending in ready-to-wear, directing all things overtly chichi to the loftier bastion of haute. He also seems to have reserved his focus for couture. It’s hard to believe that someone could brilliantly develop as singular a concept as he paris did in his July couture — 50 coats with indulgent secret embellishments inside — and the next time out let loose with a cacophony of clothes packed with so many ideas it left one’s head spinning in utter confusion. Clearly, Lagerfeld has men’s wear on his mind, and once again put it on the runway. The verdict: jeans, yea (for men man enough to brandish double-Cs on their behinds where once there were Levi’s logos); sweater dress over jeans: nay. As for masculine sportif for women, some nifty jeans and a girl in a fedora and tweed coat (apparently almost naked underneath), set the audience up for a significant leitmotif. But beyond a major exploration of shorts — they came in everything from yellow jacquard denim with a purple tweed jacket to black lace bicycle shorts over briefs — the fleshing out never happened. Rather, Lagerfeld was too busy spewing thoughts in every direction — belted tweed dirndls, suits in blinding brights, even more blinding artsy prints, exuberant Fifties party frocks, calm Sixties party frocks, and on and on and on. All of which should make for a shopaholic’s delight come spring — unless she’s looking for clarity of message.

Louis Vuitton: On Sunday night, the gold-gated façade of the Petit Palais, site of Marc Jacobs’ spring Louis Vuitton show, was all aglow with an illuminated projection of the LV monogram. A harbinger of flash to come? You betcha. So au revoir, discretion. Adieu, sobriety. Bienvenue, fun times, brash clothes and a petite homage to Versace, all of which Jacobs served up in what he called “a celebration of status and luxury.” Certainly Vuitton has much to celebrate, starting with its newly renovated flagship. So how could the stars stay away? Out they came, Winona, Uma, Salma, Eve, Jade, even Bob Geldof, and the gal who trumped all, Sharon Stone, done up — no kidding — in head-to-toe black, looking like the just-widowed Wicked Witch of the West. She made for the evening’s only dark presence (aside from the over-exposed Marilyn Manson), as Jacobs let rip with a bounty of rich-girl play clothes with attitude. They came short and shorter, bright and brighter, invested with sharp graphics, vibrant linings, chunky bead embroideries and a healthy dose of the Eighties. While structure dominated, Jacobs’ saucy jerseys and flyaway carwash voiles with mega paillettes diversified the lineup, as did a nod to Pocahontas, who appeared to have set sail from Miami. Though not Jacobs’ best collection for the house, it was lots of fun, making a crowd-pleasing antidote to a largely dull season. More importantly, it should should prove a retail blockbuster around February or so, when all those Vuitton vixens will need just the right outfits to go with their new collectible bags. Let’s face it, terrific as the clothes have been, handbags steer the Vuitton ship, and no one knows that better than Jacobs. Murakami — been there and done that? Not when it’s layered over with multicolored fringe. Girls with limitless logo yearnings can get their spring fix in a sturdy patchwork of house symbols. And in the good-taste-has-its-limits category, Jacobs proposed bright patent bags with brassy hardware and others in plastic-laminated scarf prints with that duty- free je ne sais quoi.

Yves Saint Laurent: It’s been an odd ascent for Stefano Pilati at Yves Saint Laurent — high drama going in followed by considerable buzz and some major editorial kudos. While it’s probably too soon for that to translate Louis Vuitton ▲ into a retail punch strong enough to dent the company’s $40 million in losses, it is high time to expect clarification on the designer’s vision for the house, something that has been a bit enigmatic until now. In the collection he showed on Sunday, Pilati took a significant step in that direction, providing the clearest expression yet of his thesis — a polished sportif chic achieved through the counterpoint of smart tailoring and bold decoration. It made for his best collection to date. Pilati dipped into the house history, mining his basic theme from the maestro’s Spanish motif, then keeping his references so discreet one barely noticed them. His preferred silhouette: clean and lean with an Eighties cast to the cut, with demonstrative frills softening the inherent precision. The most successful renderings came in toreador pants paired with ruffled shirts and little jackets or, in a charming variation on the motif, short sweaters worn as wraps, sleeves tied tightly in front. Still, certain problems remain. Pilati showed an awkwardness with skirts in constricting hobble shapes as well as lantern versions that shed too much light on a gal’s hips. In addition, so much ball fringe might make more sense on a couch. Nevertheless, legions of women long for straightforward, dressed-up sportswear, and as Pilati continues to refine his message, he could become their go-to guy. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 10, 2005 5

WWD.COM Chanel Louis Yves Saint Laurent ▲ ▲ Flavors Vuitton nt roles in the spring shows.

Chanel

Chanel Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton Yves Saint Laurent PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, STEPHANE FEUGERE AND DELPHINE ACHARD GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 6 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 10, 2005

Sweet Valentino ▲ And

▲ Alexander Sexy McQueen

Certain designers favored romantic, even rose-covered pieces, while others transmitted racier messages with stripped-down, Eighties-style looks or souped-up, sci-fi styles.

Valentino: Defining his laid-back approach to spring, Valentino’s show notes It’s also possible that McQueen is grappling with described fashion as “a collage of souvenirs.” And indeed, the collection he issues of a different sort. Despite being among the showed on Sunday looked as if it could have been culled from a longtime most talented designers in the world and producer customer’s well-stocked closet. Modernized Valentino classics included a of some of the best clothes anywhere, his business black-and-white opening passage full of the clean-cut shapes that made him remains miniscule, a perplexing reality in need famous. A tailored white jacket was worn over pegged black pants, while a of attention. In a brief preshow chat he indicated white gown with crystal straps took the sleek look into evening. as much. “Women in power,” McQueen said, ex- But with an ode to chinoiserie, Valentino took an eccentric turn. Kimono plaining his vision for spring. “Power dressing. jackets, flounced dresses, high-drama gowns — just about everything — was I’m bringing sex back to the market. Women want covered with fields of oversized blooms, buds and bouquets of the sort found to be excited again.” But in a fleeting crack in the on import-export porcelains. Or, as Valentino’s notes put it, “roses, roses and bravado, he referred to the collection as a transi- more roses.” You could almost hear the bees buzzing. And it sure was sweet. tion, and “almost like a rebirth. I’m trying to find my niche. What do I do best? Sexy tailoring, sexy clothes.” Lanvin: As his cult status mushrooms, Alber Elbaz’s challenge at Lanvin only On the up side, McQueen hedged no bets in his high-heat manifesto. becomes more acute. How to maintain all that steam? But with deft tailoring Stripped of choreography and tricks, it insisted the audience focus only and a daringly stark look, Elbaz defended his position as a front-runner in on the clothes that recalled the designer’s early efforts for Givenchy, the fashion pack for another season. He hurried on from fall’s beribboned though now more refined and resolved. He called the show “Neptune,” faux-naivete. Gone was the ruffled romance, and banished were Elbaz’s bell- attributing its inspiration to Cleopatra and the Greek goddesses, but it felt skirted belles. It was all replaced by a rigorous silhouette so pared down it like a meeting of Xena and a well-turned-out sci-fi high priestess. was aerodynamic and a look that crackled with Eighties attitude. Tailored looks came short, tight and brazen, often cinched with wide, im- With minimalist clothes that were searingly sexy, Elbaz expressed his posing belts. Jackets flaunted Eighties-worthy shoulders, and dresses, dark and moody side in a new way. Sleek sheath dresses were cinched with elaborately configured harnesses. There were some beautiful clothes — industrial elastic bands wide as obis, and fluid men’s shirts were tucked into some of the suits, for example, as well as short, jewel-necked jersey dress- lean, mean pencil skirts that zippered up their back seams. Then, in a final es. And a severe white column spliced in front with a deep crystal wedge fit of extravagance, Elbaz sent out a troop of dresses slick with glittering should prove hyper telegenic come red-carpet time. orchids or abstract swaths of color. As Elbaz explained, “It’s one of the most On the down side, McQueen’s vision felt too much — too hard, too aggres- modern collections I’ve done — more strict this time.” And the better for it. sive — yet oddly restricting in its yen to be commercial. (By comparison, fall’s Hitchcock motif offered an extensive wealth of wearable, salable Alexander McQueen: Point-counterpoint. It’s what makes for good dialogue clothes.) If this show was in fact a transition — terrific, all creative types in fashion as in other disciplines. So it was probably inevitable that need passages. But there’s a fine line between rebirth and regression. With Alexander McQueen, a renegade at heart, would choose this moment of gen- his enormous talent and savvy, McQueen can find a route to mainstream suc- tility elsewhere on the runways to brashly reexamine a favorite topic — sex. cess. Stifling his brilliance is not the road there. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 10, 2005 7 WWD.COM

Valentino Lanvin Lanvin

paris

Lanvin

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen PHOTOS GIANNONI AND STEPHANE FEUGERE GIOVANNI BY 8 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 10, 2005

John Galliano

UnexpecSome designers a cast of Fe

▲ Hermés ▲

paris

John John Galliano Galliano

John Galliano: “Everybody’s beautiful in their own way.” John Galliano plopped made for a mere sideshow to the main event. copies of Ray Stevens’ schmaltzy lyrics in the seats at his show on Saturday night. It’s time to realize that beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder. That must mean a Hermès: No one thinks of Jean Paul Gaultier as one of fashion’s shy types. Yet the casting of all kinds of people, not just tall, skinny models — get it? spring collection he showed for Hermès was subdued from the very first exit — a So out they came, all tricked up in campy carnival tawdriness, an older woman-oily white draped shirtdress. His safe seaside clothes included suede jackets with open young stud pairing followed by a glamour girl and geezer sugar daddy; a Mr. and Mrs. work seams and a bounty of colorful cardigans. He showed linen blazers and Jack Sprat zaftig woman-skinny man set (if Jack were a sleazy circus aerialist); three carefully tailored pants, as well as plenty of demure pleated dresses. And all of it sets of twins, including bros in sheer, do-note-the-family-jewels dresses; and on and on was put together with a nostalgic Deauville propriety. through odd-couple duets of glamazons, lesbians, cross-dressers, punks, pimps, waiters, This approach was either soothing or annoying, depending on one’s view of what soldiers and grand dames, ending with the bride and groom, both little people. The the megaluxe house should bring to the runway. But the beautifully-made haute result was Fellini-esque sans the obvious empathy. It also lacked the lavish romance of bourgeois mix is sure to please Hermès’ more conservative customers. Meanwhile, a past Galliano extravaganzas, including his Dior couture homeless collection. logo lace send up — slim skirts and camisole tops veiled with the house’s iconic Not that Galliano was making fun of his subjects; rather, it was tough to discern capital H — played like a practical joke. For those who expect more from Gaultier — what exactly his point was. Still, many in the audience found it marvelous, seeing it and from Hermès — the collection lacked that essential spark of personality. as a welcome respite from two weeks of mostly boring European shows. Yet therein was the rub. For those neither captivated by the spectacle nor moved by the message Chloé: Phoebe Philo is one of the hottest, most-copied designers in fashion, having (at least a few in the crowd took offense), the whole thing was a flop. infused girlish dressing with a whole new savvy. Given that her engaging signatures The clothes? Beautiful indeed. But in the midst of so much showmanship, they are all over the contemporary market and beyond, she made a deliberate choice to WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 10, 2005 9 WWD.COM

Christian Lacroix

cteds surprised their audiences thisTwists season by doing everything from using ellini-esque models to showing uncharacteristically subdued looks.

Chloé

Chloé Christian Christian Lacroix Lacroix PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND STEPHANE FEUGERE GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY

shake up her m.o. a bit for spring. season under the Falic brothers’ ownership. Change came fast, Lacroix’s signature That said, Philo has no intention of conceding to her copyists the realm of comely and Bazar lines now rolled into one. ingénue clothes with a soupçon of attitude. Rather she sought to deliver the mood But that’s not all. Those in the audience who wondered how the stilettoed models within a different context, one with more structure and less fluff. In some respects, would negotiate all that bumpy sand had their question answered with the first look out she succeeded well, at times charming with a group of pristine white frocks — — flats, a styling shift that spoke volumes about Lacroix’s own shift in mind-set. Under confections in linen, organza and metal gauze with newly stiffened embellishments. LVMH, he remained ever resolute in using his runway for full-flower expression of his She went even cleaner with some shirt-and-skirt looks — necktied, ladies? — and an eccentrically artistic proclivities. Only last season, did he tone down the exuberance, ultraplain two-tone shift. She toughened up the whole package with high, sturdy then due in part to a transition-phase shoestring budget. Here, he set forth more of a shoes and another fabulous bag — a big, multizipped shopper. platform for the house’s future, reining in his typical flourishes to a degree that startled Not content to just control the frills, however, Philo also went for statement at first, yet played out as a lovely sojourn to a more-familiar bohemia. structure. When she did, the clothes turned instantly labored with a major clunk Pretty dresses formed the core of the collection: strapless prints for a boho factor. One could just sense the effort behind the light brown jumper over a yellow garden party; clean-lined, artsy knits and wrap dresses, a spare Sixties gem jazzed blouse and the cardboard-stiff gold duchesse skirt with an organza blouse. up with flowers and embroidery. Lacroix folded in plenty of tailoring, as well, Nevertheless, Philo had the smarts to move on fast, long before finding herself in a including a fabulous, full-cut red metallic trenchcoat, and went unabashedly sweet where-next rut. Whatever growing pains result will be well worth it. with girlish pink eyelets. It all looked lovely in a newly grounded, less precious way. If in so doing Lacroix sacrificed a little romance in the name of restraint, he put the Christian Lacroix: A runway covered in sand at the Beaux Arts didn’t exactly scream clothes in a more obviously accessible context. His challenge in developing the Miami. Yet it indicated a new attitude at Christian Lacroix, in the house’s first full business will be to work a balance that remains true to his core. 10 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 10, 2005 Vuitton’s Grand Palais Continued from page one the gallery from a separate street entrance — or be transported 75 million and 95 million euros, or $91.1 million to $115.4 mil- in a pitch black, soundproof elevator in the atrium that is actu- lion, selling everything from 120 euro ($145) key fobs to a ally an art work by Olafur Eliasson titled “Your Loss of Senses.” 330,000 euro ($364,320) necklace of white and yellow dia- To be sure, shoppers might at least lose their sense of time monds. All currency conversions have been made at current as they encounter room after endless room. Upon crossing the exchange rates. threshold, women’s products — starting with fall and winter ac- Carcelle brushed off any suggestion the store would be a cessories from the runway — are on the left, while the men’s loss-leading image vehicle for the brand. “Of course it will department starts on the right with leather goods and neckties. make money,” he insisted. Sunglasses, a new product category for Vuitton, are exclusive One analyst, speaking on the condition of anonymity, said the to the Paris flagship for one month, rolling out to about 50 more store would likely move into the black within three to four years locations by the end of the year, Carcelle said. There are also “at the latest,” since Vuitton already incurred most or all of the limited-edition crocodile shoes, miniature versions of iconic key money involved in the lease and the site, already a popular handbags, children’s footwear and spectacular jewelry and attraction, should easily win incremental traffic. watches that are all exclusive to the Champs Elysées. The store, which opens to the public Wednesday after two Designed jointly by architects Eric Carlson and Peter Marino years of renovation, is roughly double the size of the previous — with consultation by Vuitton’s in-house architecture team — unit, which opened on the famous shopping thoroughfare in 1998. the boutique incorporates signature elements from other The previous store typically boasted long lines of mostly Vuitton locations, such as the monogrammed metallic walls that Asian tourists outside, and welcomed up to 5,000 shoppers per were originally employed in the Roppongi Hills location in day. Carcelle said about 84 percent of customers at the Champs Tokyo, appearing in Paris in various materials from leather and Elysées site are from outside France. wenge wood to porcelain and colored glass. With stone and marble floors mirroring the same patterns of Perhaps the most spectacular feature of the store is the cen- interspaced rectangles on the sidewalk outside, the store tral atrium, hung with nine miles of gleaming steel rods for a evokes the idea of the Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Solomon R. dazzling effect. Beneath is retail space, too, with a selection of Guggenheim Museum in New York. Once whisked up a 70-foot luggage lining the walls. escalator past a video by artist Tim White-Sobieski, shoppers The store opening coincides with buoyant times for the gradually wind their way down around the central atrium. Vuitton business. In September, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis “It eliminates the idea of floors,” Carcelle said, explaining Vuitton cited “exceptional” double-digit sales growth over the the succession of levels was inspired by stepped rice fields — summer months and lusty demand in particular for Vuitton’s fittingly, given the strength of the Vuitton brand in Asia. stonewashed denim handbags with its signature monogram. Throughout, the company juxtaposes references to its 151 Antoine Belge, a luxury goods analyst at HSBC in Paris, said years of history — such as vintage trunks and toys and Jean in a research note Friday that organic growth at LVMH is likely Lariviere photos from past campaigns — with the latest bags to be strong at 11 percent in the third quarter, with the Vuitton and accessories from artistic director Marc Jacobs’ runway. brand accounting for about one quarter of 2005 group sales and Major art works are also interspersed, including an astound- 55 percent of operating profits. ing rectangle of powdery light by James Turrell that subtly What’s more, he said, the new store should have “a signifi- morphs over 50 minutes in one of the accessories areas. cant impact on emerging clienteles as the Champs Elysées is In January, Vuitton will christen a 4,300-square-foot art one of the areas most visited by tourists.” gallery on the seventh floor of the building with an exhibition of Not that it’s the last of Vuitton’s projects for the year. Next up photographs by Vanessa Beecroft, who also orchestrated a per- for Carcelle before year-end is a second “global” store in formance piece Sunday night at the Petit Palais as part of the Beijing selling all product categories and the reopening of its store celebrations. The public will ultimately be able to access Landmark location in Hong Kong.

A circular salon for Trunks punctuate a monogrammed women’s shoes. wall on the vast main floor. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 10, 2005 11 WWD.COM

An area for custom order bags, and miniatures, too.

A watch salon gives a view onto the street.

Luggage is sold in the dramatic central atrium.

Jewelry and watches are among the newest categories for Vuitton.

This diamond and pearl necklace is The main escalator exclusive to gives riders a view of the shop. a massive video wall. PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTOS BY 12 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 10, 2005 Fashion Scoops MAKING SCENTS: What A backstage view. would a perfume dreamed up by Marilyn Manson smell like? The world is about to find out. The Gothic rocker told WWD at the John Galliano show Saturday that he was planning to launch his own fragrance early next year. “I’m in the final stages with one of the major companies,” said Manson, noting he was “inspired by the Dali- Schiaparelli collaborations.” The flag bearer for manly makeup said he hoped his fragrance would be the precursor to a full cosmetics line. He added that he’s working Suzy Menkes, André Leon Talley and on a movie about author Marilyn Anna Wintour at Alexander McQueen. Lewis Carroll. Manson Meanwhile, there was STEPHANE FEUGERE DELPHINE ACHARD; MANSON BY PHOTO BY BACKSTAGE STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY a generous lather of excitement backstage at Galliano, given the designer’s fashion-for-all-shapes- QUIET RIOT: Suzy Menkes is accustomed to the grueling Paris show schedule, but the ear-splitting, and-sizes theme. Pint-sized identical twins had their golden locks curled; musclemen’s tattoos bone-shuddering music at Alexander McQueen Friday night proved to be too much. The were oiled, and a sexagenarian stood high upon a chair to better photograph all the goings-on. The International Herald Tribune scribe dashed out of the show with her hands over her ears and was quirky casting came mostly from two theater agencies. There was a handful of true-blue fashion later seen slumped outside on the stairs, attended to by Vogue’s Anna Wintour and André Leon models, too, who went about like business as usual. As Whitney Houston’s “I Want to Dance With Talley, along with KCD’s Ed Filipowski. Menkes was in fine form on Saturday morning, relating that Somebody” pumped out of the speakers, some dancing and singing erupted. “These are very she inherited a high sensitivity to loud music that can make her faint and nauseous. “If L’Wren beautiful characters,” declared makeup artist Pat McGrath. Scott says the music is loud — it’s loud,” Menkes quipped, referring to the celebrity stylist and Mick Jagger’s girlfriend. WHERE THERE’S SMOKE: Lauren Hutton chatted with some of the old Yves Saint Laurent gang, including a cigarette-brandishing Catherine Deneuve and Betty Catroux, before Stefano Pilati's THINK PINK: Emanuel Ungaro is in flux. Although the house remains mum on the Ferragamo Spanish-themed show for the legendary house on Sunday. The former model also remembered the family’s efforts to sell the French fashion company, Asim Abdullah has been widely cited in the first YSL Rive Gauche she bought in the Sixties. “It was an incredible green blouse,” she said. Italian press as the most likely buyer. Abdullah is an outsider to the fashion business who built his “[Saint Laurent] is the one who made me a fashion junkie.” Hutton arrived in Paris to launch an fortune in Silicon Valley. Ungaro chief executive Paolo De Spirt declined all comment over the issue of Big magazine devoted to her. “There are 270 pictures of me in it,” she said. Kristin Scott weekend. The future of Ungaro designer Vincent Darre also hangs in the balance. Although he Thomas brought her 17-year-old daughter, Hannah Oliviennes, to the show. “This is my first fashion received more encouraging reviews for his second collection, the potential new owner is said to show,” said Oliviennes, who is finishing up her last year of high school. “I still don’t know what I have approached other designers, including Yvan Mispelaere, the former Louis Feraud designer who want to do,” she sighed. As for Scott Thomas, being an actress was clearly the only option. “I was is now a member of Phoebe Philo’s team at Chloé. lucky that way,” she related. “I knew what I wanted to do from the get-go.” Scott Thomas, who flew in from London where she has been busy rehearsing for her theater production of Luigi Pirandello’s “As You Desire Me,” is no stranger to the front row. “I like fashion but only in small doses,” she said. PRINCESS TIDE: Celebrity designers are the norm these days, but royals are throwing their crown into the fray, too. At least in Thailand, where the Princess Sirivannavarinariratana has founded a BACK TO THE FUTURE: Galerie Kreo, the hip Paris design gallery where the likes of Karl Lagerfeld and brand called Sirivannvari. OK, that might not trip off the tongue (try it three times fast), but the Azzedine Alaïa scoop up cutting-edge furniture and lighting, is teaming up with Christian Lacroix for princess, who attended the Kenzo and Hermès shows over the weekend, is giving it a serious go. his new store concept. The first, slated to bow next spring in Las Vegas, will be a mix of “past, present and future,” according to Nicolas Tapiol, a director at Lacroix, now owned by the Florida- based Falic Group. Tapiol said to expect an eclectic mix of baroque with extremely contemporary Dita Von Dita Von Teese made a pieces. Kreo founder Didier Krzentowski represents Martin Szekely, Marc Newson, the Bourroulec Teese and late appearance at brothers and others. Stella the Stella McCartney McCartney party last Thursday SWING SHIFT: Biba, the cult brand that sent British teenagers shopping mad night at Regine’s. The in the Swinging Sixties, is coming back. A retro accessories collection — burlesque performer finished with hand-painted and laser-cut Art Nouveau effects — will hit kept her clothes on, select stores next spring. Meanwhile, a Biba ready-to-wear collection, but she did bust a designed by Bella Freud, will be unveiled during the next London few moves on the Fashion Week. “We chose Freud because she has a unique dance floor with English vision that has a sense of humor to it — it’s always a McCartney. Later, the bit cheeky,” said Michael Pearce, owner of the Biba designer gave the trademark. With a Biba boutique planned for 2007, the impression that a flair brand is also on the hunt for a distributor for its new for photography runs perfume, developed by Creative Perfumers. The scent in the family. She carries, according to Pearce, an Eastern patchouli- snapped photos like meets-Shanghai sensibility. Select stores such as her pro sister Mary — Paris’ Colette, Liberty’s in London and Linda of guests and even Dresner in New York have already snapped up herself with PPR boss the shoes and bags, whose prices start at François-Henri $150 wholesale. “Biba will be the next big Pinault. Filmmaker thing for bags,” predicted Pearce, Wes Anderson also who plans to channel delicate made an appearance. elements like He’s been busy chainmail and hunting for locations tapestry in for his new movie in upcoming Paris, among other designs. things. “I had A hand- “Biba [Vuitton] trunks made painted ain’t for a movie I’m Biba shoe. PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY bling, it’s filming in India,” romantic,” Anderson said.

he said. STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY Dance Tr ack WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 10, 2005 13 WWD.COM

A table for 250. Christian Lou Doillon Louboutin

Linda Evangelista PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTOS BY

Dada Cool OH, BABY: “She’s already a style icon,” said London art dealer Max Wigram at the Yves Saint Laurent designer Stefano Pilati was not Chloé show on Saturday. Wigram wasn’t exactly in the mood for a dinner party last Thursday referring to his wife Phoebe Philo, but to night. “I had to leave a fitting,” he fretted, eager to get their bouncing baby fashionista, 10- back to the studio to ready his collection for the month-old Maya. The infant has already runway on Sunday. But he was a charming host inspired her father. “I copied her nonetheless to help fete the opening of the Dada hairstyle,” Wigram said, showing off exhibition at the Pompidou, sponsored by PPR and newly blonde locks cropped to match his YSL. Pilati strolled with Catherine Deneuve and ogled daughter’s. Elsewhere, actress Lou Doillon sculptures by Sophie Taeuber-Arp. “This is my third was fashionably late for her new time in this room,” he confessed. “Maybe it’s because assignment, starring in a series about the it’s all the women artists.” Christian Louboutin broke out music scene for French cable channel the perfect sweater vest for the event, an old Bella Paris Premiere. “I’m working on a show Freud with a trompe l’oeil undone necktie on the front. where I travel from capital to capital,” “I find it’s very Dada,” he pronounced. Meanwhile, his said the globetrotter. friend Diane von Furstenberg was buying an exhibition guide at the gift stand. “Am I the only one who went STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY DOILLON shopping?” she asked, toting her purchases to an — who walked in her friend Giambattista Valli’s show endless dinner table that seated 250. Scattered Friday — said she has a unique approach. “I'm very amongst retail heavyweights and art-world bigwigs respectful and try to make the girls look pretty,” she swilling a fine 1997 Chateau Latour were PPR boss said. “I know that’s what they want.” Now based in François-Henri Pinault, Linda Evangelista, Amira Casar, Paris, Munoz said she's also worked for Stiletto Betty Catroux and YSL chief executive Valerie Hermann. magazine and is talking with Diane von Furstenberg about a possible collaboration.

“Thai fashion is getting pretty energetic,” she said, pointing to her own sequin-embroidered jeans. TEE TIME: Seeing well-known models anywhere but the “My logo is a peacock.” runway has been a theme of the Paris week, with Natalia Vodianova, Audrey Marnay and others occupying front- THE BELLE TOILS: Having just completed the filming of “A Good Year” with Russell Crowe, French row seats. Karolina Kurkova was spotted Saturday at hip actress Marion Cotillard is set to play a French musical legend in “La Vie en Rose.” “I’m about to boutique Colette signing autographs and selling limited- get cracking on Edith Piaf,” she said at the Chanel show on Friday. “But I won’t be doing any edition T-shirts she created for her new non-profit singing. Piaf is in a league of her own.” Meanwhile, Virginie Ledoyen took a rosy approach of her foundation, “The Beautiful Life,” in aid of children’s own: dyeing her hair red for her role in the Spanish film “The Back Woods.” “I really like it,” said charities. “The foundation is so new, we haven’t picked the actress of her new color. “But once a brunette, always a brunette.” Up-and-coming American [the charities] yet,” said Kurkova, who was in town for actress Camilla Belle, who just wrapped the remake of “When a Stranger Calls,” scheduled to hit only two days since she is taking a break from the Paris theaters in February, decided she deserved a trip to Europe. Traveling with her mother, Cristina, runway this season. Jacquetta Wheeler lined up say Belle said she has been “resting and pampering myself.” She and her mom were off to London hello, as did Vodianova. next, and then Scotland. Down the front row, Chanel face Anna Mouglalis brought her younger sister, Melina, a law DANGER ZONE: Fashion shows can be a dangerous place student, who had never been to a fashion show. The beguiling brunette actress said she’s got a — even if you’re seated in the back row. At Tsumori number of projects in the works, not the least of which is an album, for which she is preparing Chisato last Thursday, a security guard in the mezzanine material. Meanwhile, French workers still toiling on the cupola of the Grand Palais, had top-row Astrid accidentally knocked over a loose section of ornate seats, lying on the glass to watch the show from 11 stories up. Munoz metal railing. Although no one was seriously injured,

PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY four people were rushed to the emergency room to be CHILD’S PLAY: It was a family affair — Jagger style — as Jade and her two daughters squeezed into checked for concussions, while another was Pierre-Alexis Dumas the front row of Lanvin on Sunday. “She’s incredible at customizing things,” Assisi Jagger said Pierre-Alexis Dumas administered first aid on the scene. and Pascale Mussard about her younger sister, Amber, who has ambitions to be a fashion designer. and Pascale Mussard IN THE SADDLE: “I’m going into the studio for a new HITTING THE BOOKS: Sharon Stone turned up last Thursday night at the opening of Assouline’s first album next week,” declared actress-cum-chanteuse Jane freestanding store, but was she looking to curl up with a good book — or someone tall, dark and Birkin at the Hermès show on Saturday. Birkin, who is handsome? “You must know every great guy in the city,” she said, grilling Martine Assouline, wife of the namesake for the house’s famous bag, said she’d be publisher Prosper. “I’m very jealous you’re married to such a fabulous man.” Stone signed copies singing tunes penned by the likes of Coldplay and Beth of her new Assouline title, “Something to Hold” – a compilation of photos of angels from Gibbons. Meanwhile, Birkin has also written a film about graveyards taken by Mimi Craven, with text by Stone. “It’s for anyone who has lost someone they “a mother with three daughters, kind of like me,” which loved,” the actress explained. “I’ve left places for you to write what you want to.” Proceeds go to she will direct and which will star Geraldine Chaplin. Also AmFAR’s campaign against AIDS, of which Stone has been chair since 1995. Her message to fans: attracting interest in the front row were Pierre-Alexis “Let’s use condoms.” Dumas and Pascale Mussard, the son and niece of Hermès chairman Jean-Louis Dumas. The cousins were MODEL VISION: There is life after modeling. Just ask Puerto Rican beauty Astrid Munoz, who kick- recently named joint artistic directors of the luxury firm started a career in fashion photography. Having stood before the camera plenty in her day, Munoz in preparation for Dumas’ retirement in January. PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY 14 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 10, 2005 WWD.COM A Fresh Appeal There were good-looking clothes to suit a variety of real-world needs on the spring runways, ranging from pretty Empire dresses to cool skinny knits.

Nina Ricci: In fits and starts, Lars Nilsson has sent some Nina Ricci very appealing clothes down the Nina Ricci runway, with varying amounts of curious filler presented in-between. For spring, however, he seems to have ironed out some of that awkwardness and to have truly cleaned up his act. The collection was a jaunty mix of airy dresses and Franco-preppy sportswear. Sweaters in coral or periwinkle blue were worn with belled skirts in stiff cotton drill or in smart seersucker. A shooting-star print carried throughout, lending a quirky sparkle to an Empire-waist dress. While a tricky half-belting technique threw a few dresses off- balance, overall, Nilsson’s collection demonstrated plenty of personality without sucking the air out of the room.

Akris: At Akris, Swiss-based designer Albert Kriemler sees no reason to raise a ruckus, even for the occasion of a fashion show. But quiet doesn’t necessitate boredom. Kriemler raises his points of interest in a restrained way — a chic, casually rolled-up dolman sleeve on jackets and dresses, the turned-up hem on lovely pleated skirts or a subtle print of flower petals barely visible on a smokey chiffon dress. Though the extraneous addition of a pleated panel on skirts and dresses didn’t quite compute, it was easily overlooked. Along with soft pieces in muted shades of silk — chiffon, organza and georgette — were slim tailored pants paired with equally slim jackets or slightly belled knits. paris Eveningwear options — ultra- simple draped chiffon dresses — weren’t perfect, but still greatly improved from last season’s lingerie-like offerings. In the end, it was a collection that Giambattista will easily leap from runway to Valli reality and delight Kriemler’s retail fans.

Giambattista Valli: Giambattista Akris Valli has joined the jostling pack of designers who are ready, willing and able to dress the world’s socialites. For their polite pleasure, he showed sculpted cocktail dresses printed with bitsy garlands and others with rosettes trapped in their hems. There were lunching options beyond the classic Nina suit for the more modern Ricci lady, like his gently twisted sweater and slim lace skirt. Besides a few experiments with volume — including one dress with a bustled caboose — it all looked perfectly viable. Valli’s clothes are beautifully made, if occasionally overblown.

Ann Demeulemeester: Those trend followers growing weary of saccharin romance may find what they’re seeking in Ann Demeulemeester’s aesthetic. Her spring show had a healthy selection of very wearable pieces in the above-it-all, punk vein embodied by longtime muse Patti Smith. Cool, skinny knits layered up with thin suede vests hung languidly over lean and long bias satin skirts or baggy pants. A shrunken-black jacket was well-cut and covetable. She worked the simple detail of a slimly shaped halter neck again and again, draping it over the collarbones in front or over the shoulders in back to elegant effect, except in a series of paint-spattered white silk looks. Demeulemeester still clung to the démodé look of matted hair, chalk-white face and vampirish black satins in much of her presentation, but her fresher takes on Akris Giambattista Valli Ann Demeulemeester

spring were a step in the right direction. PHOTOS GIANNONI AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE GIOVANNI BY WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 10, 2005 15 WWD.COM Accessories Report Yurman Heads to the Altar

By Sophia Chabbott David Yurman’s engagement NEW YORK — After 25 years in business, David Yurman is saying “I do.” rings. The $500 million jewelry company is entering the $55 billion bridal industry with a col- lection of engagement rings, wedding bands for women and men and assorted classic pearl and diamond jewelry. “For many years, clients have asked me to do special one-of-a-kind bridal pieces,” said chief executive officer and designer David Yurman. “There are a lot of people who appreciate our product and I want to make sure we are there for all of the big occasions in their lives.” The collection of about 25 pieces incorporates David Yurman’s signatures, like the twist- ed cable that appears subtly on the underside of men’s wedding bands in yellow or white gold, and the cushion shape that appears in white gold to divide pearls on a two-row choker or as a setting for diamond stud earrings. But the company has gone even further in its quest of branding by offering its customers a signature patented diamond cut, dubbed the David Yurman Signature Cut Diamond. The cushion shape — once again referencing the shape that is essential to David Yurman jewel- ry — is a high-performance cut allowing for optimum light and reflection to the stone. Yurman himself took part in designing the cut, which is offered from one to four carats. Larger stones are available upon request. Other engagement ring diamond styles include a standard princess cut and an oval cut set horizontally within a ring of fine gold twisted cables. Retail prices start at $425 for plain bands, $1,100 for diamond bands and $5,000 for engagement rings. Here and left, David Yurman’s The new collection is being rolled out exclusively to David Yurman boutiques this month bridal-focused campaign. and will be in all 10 stores early next year. Carol Pennelli, executive vice president of sales and marketing of the New York-based firm, said the company is evaluating when and how the line will be distributed to wholesale accounts. “Being in bridal is a different business,” she said. “We want to learn and master it in our own stores before we send it into retail channels.” The company wouldn’t divulge sales projections, although Pennelli said, “If you look at last year, when we launched pearls, everything that we launched has been so thought- ful and well-planned that I’m confident that this collection is going to be supremely suc- cessful.” An advertising campaign with a bridal focus will bow in December issues of national and regional magazines. “We’ve had a younger customer than we ever had coming into our doors,” said Pennelli. “The campaign and David’s designs have driven younger customers. David is inspired, and doing things he hasn’t experimented with before.”

STERLING ANNIVERSARY: Tiffany & Co. feted one of its star designers, Paloma Picasso, on her 25 years with the company FINDINGS on Thursday night. The party, held at New York’s Museum of Modern Art, was Brighton’s Treasure Trove ablaze in Picasso’s signature red. Everything from the miniature champagne bottles to the walls was doused in DALLAS — Brighton plans to take its jewelry division scarlet. Even the models wore red Valentino gowns, to a new level for holiday with the launch of a accessorized with Picasso’s 25th anniversary jewelry bridge-priced collection handcrafted in Bali of collection. Brighton pure silver. The jewelry comprises many large colored stones, Treasures “Jewelry is our number-one category in sales including tanzanite and beryl, within settings bearing two Xs necklace. and growth,” said Laura Young, who runs the and a V, representing 25. company with Jerry Kohl, founder and owner. “I have always loved jewelry,” said Picasso, who lives on “Now we want to do collectible things.” Lake Geneva in Switzerland. “Even as a girl, although I was Young declined to reveal Brighton’s jewelry Paloma Picasso

PHOTO BY JIMI CELESTE/PMC FOR ©PATRICK MCMULLAN JIMI CELESTE/PMC FOR ©PATRICK PHOTO BY very much a tomboy, I wore it all the time.” volume, but said total company sales exceeded $250 million last year. The 14-year-old accessories IN THE PINK: Bijou Phillips, Marley Shelton, Alexandra firm, based in City of Industry, Calif., launched jewelry in 1996 von Furstenberg, Lisa Loeb and Illeana Douglas — and with a line of sterling silver-plated zinc pieces that retail from $27 her little pooch Godfrey — were among the pals of to $65. Tarina Tarantino who walked the hot-pink carpet The new Brighton Treasures collection of fine silver retails at Wednesday for the grand opening of the designer’s much higher prices, selling for $100 to $600. pink-washed boutique on Melrose Avenue in Los Pure silver is softer than sterling, enabling the Bali artisans to Angeles. infuse the Treasures collection with intricate details, such as wire The jewel box of a space, with its Swarovski-filled spirals and granulated beads. The collection also features plenty shingle above the front door, is Tarantino’s first in the of hearts — the company’s symbol and a frequent design motif — U.S., after an in-store shop in Milan. It’s only the start as well as insects and abstract designs inspired by art and archi- of a series, with the next opening in Tokyo. tecture. Bali Treasures was styled by Brighton designers Beth Tarantino, crowned with freshly colored hot pink Barror and Maryam Nassirbegli. ringlets, and her business partner and husband, To test the market, Brighton is dispatching its 100-member sales Alfonso Campos, welcomed what had to be the most team to promote the collection in trunk shows at sparkling hundreds of guests at a recent party — some of its 5,000 specialty store accounts, includ- thanks to all the Swarovski-speckled Tarantino jewelry ing Sylvia’s in McAllen, Tex.; Brass Trunk in and hair accessories they were drenched in. Tarina Marshall, Tex., and Greenwood Leather in New Inside a tent at the back, the powder-pink poufs Tarantino York. The company will stage hundreds of the and crystal lamps furthered the notion of a jewel box and Bijou shows between Thanksgiving and Christmas, and — all the way to the live ballerina who posed and Phillips merchandise will be available for immediate

gently turned on a centerpiece platform. SARDELLA DONATO PHOTO BY purchase. “Our strategy has always been about how we GOING ONCE: The Sotheby’s sale, “Important Jewels,” in New York on Sept. 28 proved to can bring consumers to specialty stores and help be a sparkling affair. those retailers make money, and we feel this is a Canary yellow and fancy yellow diamonds were hot tickets. One fancy, intense-yellow good way to build a buzz,” Young said. “It will diamond ring was sold for $168,000. There also continues to be a market for flawless give us an indication of what people like and diamonds. A 5.58-carat D-Flawless round diamond ring sold for $385,600, while a pear- which retailers can sell the product.” shaped ring in D-Color went for $126,000. The sale brought in a total of $5.3 million. — Holly Haber Brighton Treasures cuff. 16 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 10, 2005 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Back to Basics for Spring By Karyn Monget eliminates overembellishment.” Bob Vitale, executive vice president of sales and marketing Nostalgia NEW YORK — Fashion was the driving force over the past at Wacoal America, said two new basic bra styles have been and whimsy several seasons in the lingerie business, but a back-to-basics “major hits” for spring: Sheer Basics, a clean, tailored mini- are top ideas movement is now surfacing. mizer with soft stretch foam cups, and French Garden, a at Richard Based on the trend direction of retail orders at the August dressed-up, tailored seamless-cup bra with a stretch lace back. Leeds. market, a number of manufacturing executives from designer “We also did a full-figure line expansion from our Wacoal firms and moderate operations said the love affair with Silver group called Halo, which features a more powerful overtly embellished daywear, bras and panties, and sleep- lace and goes up to a triple D cup,” he said. wear and robes, may be drawing to an end for spring. Regarding the licensed Donna Karan Intimates line, While there continues to be a demand for luxe lingerie Vitale said, “We expanded the Donna Karan Solutions col- and designer labels, this newfound sobriety is the result of lection to nine silhouettes for spring. A bra that is totally several negative factors that have affected mainstream backless and a plungy bustier each had very strong reaction, America, according to industry executives. They include a as did camis and chemises with convertible straps.” huge demand for everyday basics following Hurricanes Gail Epstein, president and creative director of Hanky Katrina and Rita, skyrocketing costs of fuel, uncertainty over Panky, said color and a soft, signature rose-pattern Helenca the Iraq war and the fear of a potential recession. lace were the two most important elements for spring. Another classification that’s reemerging as an important “I believe the younger customer appreciates this collec- line of business is comfortwear — anything that features feel- tion,” Epstein said. “She’s starting with a thong and now she good fabrics such as microfibers, cotton terry, softly brushed can’t get enough of the lace. We have a continuing library of fleece and supple jerseys. The comfort issue, which became a basics and the real excitement has been the infusion of tremendous factor in bolstering sales in the innerwear indus- bright colors in signature lace.” try following 9/11, includes streamlined foundations with treat- She added that coordinating pieces like chemises, camis and ments like gel-coated bra straps, cush- calypso pants have been strong items. Color ioned underwire bras and fabric blends combinations include Creamsicle orange like CoolMax that wick away moisture. and pale green, flamingo pink and deep As a result, a majority of vendors fo- peony pink, bluebell blue and turquoise and cused on a broader range of replenish- clear aqua with cotton candy pink. ment items, many of which are top sell- Chris Lee, vice president of design and ers, as well as a wider assortment of merchandising at St. Eve, said the main colors ranging from clear brights to soft goal on the part of buyers was “building ba- pastels and neutrals. sics within key fabrications and categories.” “For us, August was all about basics,” “The hipkini is being added to programs said Francine Braun, president and chief as a fashion basic, along with cheekier boy- executive officer of On Gossamer, a leg styles across all fabrics,” Lee said. Miami-based company. “It was back to Sizing up the status of sleepwear orders, pants and our signature mesh. Overall, Carole Hochman, chairman and design di- buyers were focusing on what they want- rector of The Carole Hochman Group, said, ed to write and what they wanted to drive “We’ve had some very good replenishment the business. What they wanted was color items in the Lauren Ralph Lauren, Oscar de and clean lines and less fashion.” la Renta and Carole Hochman collections.” Jessica Mitchell, senior vice presi- Key replenishment items that booked dent of merchandising, marketing and “very heavily” include “modern, classic” Dual purpose sales at Natori Co., said soft fabrics sleepgowns of micro charmeuse from separates are were important in the Josie Natori, On Gossamer focuses on signature mesh. Oscar de la Renta’s bridal group, three- key at Natori. Natori, Josie and Cruz collections. piece pajama sets with minimal lace edg- “Overall, the whole knitwear part of our business was the ing by Carole Hochman and men’s wear-inspired pajamas of biggest hit for the season, whether it was microfleece, Tencel, striped cotton shirting by Lauren Ralph Lauren, she said. jersey or poly Modal,” Mitchell said. “It was clothes you could Kathy Thomas, sales associate for KN Karen Neuburger wear in or out. People are now coming into the sleepwear de- sleepwear, said separates were a top classification. partment with different expectations. “Expanding into separates and traditional interlock was “We are doing a lot of business with replenishment items a top-selling idea,” said Thomas. “A customer may not want that we never did before. Retailers are interested in items to plank down a lot of money for several separates, but she they can continue to run and how they can maximize their may be willing to spend for a pair of pajama pants. We also business off of an item.” received strong reaction from CoolDry wicking fabrics, Tobie Garfinkle, vice president of merchandising for Liz which we just renamed KN Cool.” Claiborne Intimates, singled out a new bra called Hide-A- Marcia Leeds, ceo of Richard Leeds International, said, Wire as the number-one booking “comfort item.” “Our sequin, rhinestone and lace groups sold OK, but our “It’s all about the comfort factor,” Garfinkle said. “The nostalgic, feel-good Seventies group booked phenomenally Hide-A-Wire bra has a cushion feature on the underwire and well. A top item was a tissue jersey top with a little smocking, is covered in foam. We’ve expanded the idea to include aver- a very simple silhouette. It featured rickrack trim, but buyers age-figure and full-figure styles. It’s rendered in a jacquard insisted we take it off. Bright spring colors were also hot.” and solid fabric, so it’s also very eye-appealing.” Leeds noted a licensed “Dukes of Hazzard” group also Colors include black, white, sky blue, pale green and was a top-booking part of the Seventies statement. cameo pink. “I think it’s because it represents a simpler time, no Al- Regarding retailers’ buying priorities, Garfinkle said: Qaeda, no monumental problems,” Leeds said. “It reminds “Retailers were only interested in something that had a new people about this guy driving this stupid car around the

handle. They just wanted it to be salable, and by nature that South with a Confederate flag and it makes people laugh.” GEORGE CHINSEE BY ERICKSEN; NATORI KYLE LEEDS PHOTO BY

they will also be merchandised all through the store,” Bantivoglio said. Scott Tepper, fashion director and division merchandising manager for INTIMATE NOTES Bendel’s, said the store has successfully been selling Bantivoglio’s lingerie LEIGH DOES BENDEL’S: Henri Bendel and lingerie designer Leigh Bantivoglio since November 2004 to consumers who want luxe lingerie. have joined forces for a lace collection for Bendel’s La Lingerie department “The response to Leigh’s sensibility has been amazing since the lingerie called Leigh Bantivoglio for Henri Bendel. department opened, so we felt there was an opportunity to take it a step Bantivoglio is the second lingerie designer to collaborate with Bendel’s further and incorporate fashion elements of the season that we had not on an exclusive collection. Last summer, the retailer partnered with found in the intimate apparel market for this group,” Tepper said. “Adding Samantha Chang to create intimate apparel that has a contemporary edge. fur and velvet trims, metallic laces and black jet beads gave this capsule Bendel’s also hooked up with the hip sportswear label Heatherette this fall group a rich, luxurious feeling our customers can wear as easily to holiday for an exclusive line. events as the boudoir.” Bantivoglio’s signature is daywear, corsetry and a select number of The collection consists of four styles: a wrap retailing at a suggested sleepwear pieces rendered in European lace and silk. The young designer $238, a cocktail camisole for $228, a full-coverage cocktail camisole for will launch her Bendel’s exclusive mid-October with a collection called $248 and a dual-purpose cocktail dress for $398. Natalia that will feature Leavers lace adorned with black jet beads, velvet Bantivoglio said she will pledge 10 percent of the wholesale proceeds of ribbon, fur pompoms and gold cording. the Natalia collection to the CFDA Foundation/Fashion Targets Breast Bantivoglio’s cocktail camisole. “My designs will be in the La Lingerie department, but what’s really great is Cancer for as long as the collection is sold at Bendel’s. BANTIVOGLIO PHOTO BY SARRA FLEUR SARRA BANTIVOGLIO PHOTO BY WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 10, 2005 17 WWD.COM Financial Weekly Stock Index 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOWP/E (00’S) LAST CHANGE RETAILERS WWDCOMPOSITE STOCK INDEX VS. S&P 500 74.10 34.50Abercrombie Abercrombie & & Fitch Fitch 19.2 134136 52.08 2.23 35.46 19.79Aéropostale Aeropostale 13.5 61506 19.94 -1.31 34.04 18.28American American Eagle Eagle 12.8 181347 24.53 1.00 28.75 19.98Ann Ann Taylor Taylor 68.9 86888 24.65 -1.90 30.97 10.00Bebe Bebe 22.7 54891 16.57 -0.93 3.59 1.20Bluefly Bluefly - 10223 1.70 0.17 23.22 10.62Bon-Ton Bon-Ton 14.4 5040 18.79 -0.63 44.08 21.02Burlington Burlington Coat Coat 15.5 7725 37.86 -0.18 18.53 10.90Caché Cache 23.5 6687 15.44 0.21 22.27 14.73Cato Cato 15.9 11543 20.10 0.17 S&P 500 16.51 8.84Charlotte Charlotte Russe Russe 45.5 64550 15.89 2.57 12.34 7.00Charming Charming Shoppes Shoppes 15.5 52612 10.57 -0.10 41.67 17.87Chico’s Chico's FAS FAS 41.3 91823 37.78 0.98 52.94 23.19Children’s Children's Place Place 30.3 55344 37.43 1.84 31.60 20.86CVS CVS 21.4 481910 25.58 -3.43 31.35 20.38Deb Deb Shops Shops 14.2 472 22.86 1.12 28.60 18.77Dillard’s Dillard's 14.4 38151 20.21 -0.67 22.80 17.75Dollar Dollar General General 17.8 119627 19.05 0.71 26.77 15.19Dress Dress Barn Barn 21.3 29565 24.35 1.59 59.21 30.78eBay eBay 56.3 764060 39.90 -1.30 35.25 19.40Family Family Dollar Dollar 16.2 130162 20.76 0.89 WWD COMPOSITE STOCK INDEX 78.05 44.39Federated Federated 14.3 171550 65.00 -1.87 29.95 20.79Foot Foot Locker Locker 12.6 36751 21.70 -0.24 23.75 16.68Gap Gap 12.2 226962 16.73 -0.70 11.10 6.66Goody’s Goody's - 81828 8.75 1.18 12.45 5.80Gottschalks Gottschalks 20.3 1085 8.90 -0.22 25.94 11.58Guess Guess 27.8 36199 25.76 4.33 2.10 0.65Harold’s Harold's Stores Stores - 464 0.79 -0.18 23.49 13.51Hot Hot Topic Topic 20.2 106710 15.43 0.07 57.99 34.03J.C. J.C. Penney Penney 15.8 175172 45.94 -1.48 7/1 7/15 7/29 8/12 8/26 9/9 9/23 10/7 58.90 45.09Kohl’s Kohl's 20.4 174698 48.08 -2.10 27.89 18.95Limited Limited Brands Brands 14.8 135874 19.93 -0.50 18.66 8.28Mothers Mothers Work Work 38.8 1110 9.54 -0.46 100.98 57.00Neiman Neiman Marcus Marcus 19.4 47925 99.98 0.03 24.41 12.11New New York York & & Co. Co. 13.6 23936 12.46 -3.94 37.96 19.58Nordstrom Nordstrom 19.1 131491 33.24 -1.08 WWDSTOCK INDEX DIPS 1% 29.05 20.33Pacific Pacific Sunwear Sunwear 16.0 136842 23.65 2.21 46.88 33.86Regis Regis 25.1 13165 36.41 -1.41 NEW YORK — Inflationary woes along with concerns that consumers are not going to spend as much 14.34 6.02Retail Retail Ventures Ventures - 13884 10.32 -0.66 this holiday as they did in prior years, gave investors little reason to trade up retail stocks last week. 31.37 22.34Ross Ross Stores Stores 20.2 151797 25.82 2.12 24.64 11.71Saks Saks 42.2 69716 17.87 -0.63 As a result, the WWD Composite Stock Index dropped 1 percent to 1,040.54 Friday from 1,050.73 in 163.50 84.51Sears Sears 9.6 147562 120.50 -3.93 the prior week. The S&P 500 fared worse, declining 2.7 percent for the week, to 1,195.9 from 1,228.81. 26.70 15.88ShopKo ShopKo 15.2 37631 25.78 0.26 What’s needling away at investors is the “Katrina effect,” a term coined for the idea that as raw mate- 32.07 22.00Stage Stage Stores Stores 13.0 16598 26.49 -0.38 26.47 14.55Stein Stein Mart Mart 17.7 26109 20.43 0.13 rial costs, energy prices and joblessness 15.80 10.25Syms Syms 34.3 696 13.22 -0.17 Retailers had pulled the trigger rises in the wake of the hurricane, con- 35.34 24.90T Talbotsalbots 15.0 54474 26.94 -2.98 sumer spending will sharply decline. 60.00 45.55Tar Targetget 21.3 225423 52.77 0.84 25.96 19.95TJX TJX Cos. 16.5 205604 21.21 0.73 on sales in the second week of On Thursday, same-store sales came 9.69 2.61United United Retail Retail Group Group - 5037 7.71 0.00 in mixed across all channels. Results 31.48 17.45Urban Urban Outfitters Outfitters 44.7 131629 30.95 1.55 September because they needed were better than August, but analysts 57.89 42.31Wa Wal-Martl-Mart 17.4 773947 44.03 0.21 7.04 1.35W Wetet Seal Seal - 41199 4.46 -0.04 said this was due to steeper mark- 7.30 2.44Wilsons Wilsons Leather Leather 2.1 7198 5.84 -0.26 to draw shoppers into their stores. downs. Retailers had pulled the trigger 34.42 25.50Zale Zale 13.0 9689 27.00 -0.18 on sales in the second week of VENDORS 56.31 41.61Alberto Alberto Culver Culver 19.8 22177 43.35 -1.40 September because they needed to draw shoppers into their stores. 45.66 25.91A Avonvon 12.8 175606 26.29 -0.71 According to the International Council of Shopping Centers, aggregate same-store sales among 26.76 17.56Benetton Benetton 27.6 323 21.19 -0.20 the 71 retailers it tracks rose 4 percent last month, ahead of its estimate for a 3 percent gain. But 37.87 24.57Cherokee Cherokee 16.0 1003 33.20 -1.78 36.42 19.54Coach Coach 30.3 135395 31.35 -0.01 Michael Niemira, chief economist and director of research at the ICSC, said September’s results 62.18 41.90Columbia Columbia Sprtswr Sprtswr 13.3 16368 45.39 -1.01 were deceiving because they included gasoline sales at wholesale clubs, which were favorably af- 26.50 20.22Elizabeth Elizabeth Arden Arden 15.5 9882 21.17 -0.41 fected by a nearly 50 percent increase in gas prices. 47.50 33.65Estée Estee Lauder Lauder 19.5 78190 35.12 0.29 Another concern was news on Friday that payrolls dropped by 35,000. The Labor Department said 32.05 16.79Fossil Fossil 13.2 24311 16.98 -1.21 11.89 5.69G-III G-III 34.1 112 11.16 -0.08 the unemployment rate reached 5.1 percent, which is off a four-year low of 4.9 percent that was 43.20 33.82IFF IFF 16.7 21225 34.60 -1.04 clocked in August. Still, economists said in research reports that the numbers could have been worse. 21.80 12.23Inter Inter Parfums Parfums 24.1 2349 18.72 -0.97 37.49 26.85Jones Jones Apparel Apparel 12.3 49526 27.69 -0.81 — WWD Staff 37.14 23.53Kellwood Kellwood - 17707 25.40 -0.45 35.29 24.66Kenneth Kenneth Cole Cole 14.7 2995 27.20 -0.09 43.82 34.15Liz Liz Claiborne Claiborne 12.9 30520 38.59 -0.73 6.20 2.98Mossimo Mossimo 17.1 306 4.97 0.00 20.38 15.24Movado Movado 16.3 6601 17.70 -1.02 WWDStock Market Index 92.43 75.10Nike Nike 16.3 92164 82.77 1.09 Weekly % Changes Ending Oct. 7 51.68 33.34Oxford Oxford 13.2 20308 48.00 2.88 16.25 9.52Perfumania Perfumania 8.9 15 13.97 0.77 26.48 18.20Perry Perry Ellis Ellis 8.7 3145 20.77 -0.97 Composite: Retailers: Vendors: Largest Gainers Largest Losers 35.38 21.39Phillips-Van Phillips-Van Heusen Heusen 16.6 13874 30.78 -0.24 1040.54 1042.90 987.69 53.25 33.75Polo Polo Ralph Ralph Lauren Lauren 22.8 39195 52.50 2.20 18.12 12.46Quiksilver Quiksilver 17.0 41920 13.93 -0.52 Close Change Close Change 57.75 34.84Reebok Reebok 16.1 79345 57.55 0.98 Guess 25.76 20.21 New York & Co. 12.46 -24.02 4.29 1.96Revlon Revlon - 47173 3.02 -0.20 21.84 12.94Russell Russell 10.2 18043 13.76 -0.28 Charlotte Russe 15.89 19.29 Harold’s Stores 0.79 -18.56 26.24 15.69Steve Steve Madden Madden 29.2 13203 25.52 2.60 -10.19 -10.70 -6.43 Goody’s 8.75 15.59 CVS 25.58 -11.82 4.22 0.71Ta Tarrantrrant - 12266 2.94 -0.20 Steve Madden 25.52 11.34 Talbots 26.94 -9.96 18.76 8.47T Tommyommy Hilfiger Hilfiger 14.6 16189 17.76 0.41 18.25 1.96Tr Trueue Religion Religion Apparel Apparel 28.2 13659 15.59 -1.05 Index base of 1000 is keyed to closing prices Bluefly 1.70 11.11 Ann Taylor 24.65 -7.16 61.61 47.15VF VF Corp. Corp. 12.3 32256 56.15 -1.82 of Dec. 31, 2002. 25.88 19.21Wa Warnacornaco 18.2 20104 21.63 -0.28 18 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 10, 2005 WWD.COM Anthropologie Hits Wal-Mart Bigelow Arrives in Boston By Katherine Bowers Sally With Infringement Lawsuit Hershberger BOSTON — The Limited Brand’s Bath & Body By Liza Casabona Works division assembled beauty’s version of a dream team to launch the C.O. Bigelow unit in NEW YORK — Anthropologie Inc. and U.O.D. Inc., subsidiaries Copley Place mall downtown here. of Urban Outfitters Inc., filed a lawsuit here against Wal-Mart There, cheek by jowl in a 1,500- square-foot Stores Inc. for allegedly infringing on its fabric designs as well space last Thursday, were Harry Slatkin and as for unfair business practices. Cornelia Guest, Pat Wexler, Sally Hershberger, The complaint, filed Sept. 27 in Manhattan Federal Court, al- Frédéric Fekkai, Jack Davies and Warren Tricomi, leged that Wal-Mart manufactured and sold skirts featuring pat- among others. terns, fabrics, color schemes and designs that are “identical, vir- For Ian Ginsberg, whose family owns the original tually identical, or highly similar” to those used by Bigelow’s in Greenwich Village, the gathering was Anthropologie. like a transplanted slice of Manhattan. Glancing at The complaint listed four claims: copyright infringement, fed- Wexler (the celebrity dermatologist was showing off

eral unfair competition, common law unfair competition and de- how her mulberry, stingray watchband provided MCRAE LAWRENCE PHOTO BY ceptive trade practices. The copyright infringement claim refers color direction for her line’s pack- to two Anthropologie fabric designs called City Garden Print and aging), Ginsberg recalled that she 80- to 100-stockkeeping-unit home Bird Garden Sateen that were registered with the U.S. Copyright grew up on 12th Street, around the lifestyle line. Office in August of this year. corner from the 167-year-old BEAUTY BEAT ● Fresh’s Supernova mascara Wal-Mart did not return calls for comment by press time. apothecary. Wexler’s mother, Mildred, was a is the company’s number-one sku in its own Wal-Mart is currently engaged in a strategic merchandising Bigelow’s regular. stores, selling 800 units in three weeks, said co- campaign to raise its fashion quotient in the U.S., which in- Even without a personal history, executives founder Lev Glazman. The densely bristled cludes advertising in fashion magazines, holding runway shows were salivating over the prospect of a new and patented brush took five years to develop. and announcing the launch of an urban apparel brand for growing prestige retail chain to take the sting out ● A $95 Face Volumizer is the best-selling sku women. The Anthropologie lawsuit stated that the mass retailer of department store consolidation. from Sally Hershberger’s new line for The Face has been promoting itself as “cheap chic” in an effort to move “We love being here in an apothecary setting,’’ Place. away from its image as a low-price retailer. Traditionally, the said Nick Braden, managing director of L’Occitane. ● Neiman Marcus, which has a product exclu- Anthropologie complaint alleged, Wal-Mart has not been associ- “It’s a very good way to tell brand stories.” sive until Jan. 1, has sold more than 1,000 units of ated with cutting-edge fashion and design. BBW not only brought in industry firepower, but Frédéric Fekkai’s $195 overnight repair cream in “In order to build its ‘cheap chic’ line, Wal-Mart has em- social clout, as well. Anthony Shriver and mother four months. barked on a conscious strategy of copying the designs of others Eunice Kennedy Shriver, looking pure Kennedy in and manufacturing such designs itself, or through contracting double-strand pearls and blue Armani, hosted a factories, for sale in its own stores,” the court document alleged. charity shopping evening in the store last Wednesday Boots to Sell Healthcare Division Anthropologie has asked the court to permanently enjoin to benefit Best Buddies, the Shriver family philan- LONDON — Boots Group Plc has agreed to sell its Wal-Mart from manufacturing, distributing, selling or advertis- thropy for mentally handicapped individuals. Boots Healthcare International division, which ing products that infringe directly or indirectly on its copy- The pair flew in from California, where the includes the Clearasil skin care brand, to Reckitt rights. In addition, the company asked that Wal-Mart be direct- younger Shriver biked with his sister, Maria Benckiser Plc. ed to deliver the allegedly offending items to be destroyed. The Shriver, California’s first lady, in a 100-mile chari- The cash deal, weighing in at 1.91 billion lawsuit also asked the court to restrain Wal-Mart from register- ty ride to the Hearst Castle. pounds, or $3.4 billion at current exchange, comes ing or applying to register copyrights, trademarks, service Bigelow next will bring the fanfare to Chicago, as Boots polishes up its profile in the run-up to its marks or other symbols of copyright origin that might be con- where it is opening three stores. The goal is three proposed merger with Alliance UniChem. As re- fused with any of Anthropologie’s. Anthropologie has request- or four stores per major U.S. metropolitan market. ported, the pair will form Alliance Boots, which is ed statutory and punitive damages. Neil Fiske, BBW president, said he is hoping to become Europe’s leading retail pharmacy firm. for a “quiet revolution. Beauty retailing in the “Together, with the announcement of the pro- U.S. has gotten a little boring.” posed merger with Alliance UniChem, this dispos- NEW YORK — New York The store is deliberately smaller than the test al allows us to focus on our plans to create a city Comptroller William C. store in Easton Town Center, the lifestyle mall out- world-class, pharmacy-led health care group,” Thompson Jr. announced side Columbus, Ohio, where Limited Brands chair- stated Richard Baker, chief executive officer of the creation of a Counter- man and chief executive officer Leslie Wexner Boots. “BHI has performed strongly over the last feiting Task Force here. The tries out new concepts. three years, delivering excellent organic growth task force will include professionals with anti-counterfeiting expert- The Easton Bigelow will begin using some of and outperforming its market. I firmly believe ise from the clothing, music, legal and law enforcement industries. its extra space for spa services. Such services are that the prospects for the business remain strong, The purpose is to explore how the city can fight sales of illegal coun- tricky to manage and likely will not be a standard and with the commitment and focus that Reckitt terfeit goods and recover some of the revenues it loses each year. part of the Bigelow expansion, Fiske said. Benckiser will bring to the business, that it will The group expects to hold its first meeting in November. Thompson BBW house brands are heavily represented at continue to thrive.” estimated the city loses more than $1 billion in tax revenues every the Boston store, which follows Easton in using Reckitt Benckiser was said to have been among year through its $23 billion illegal counterfeiting industry. white walls and fixtures, a dark floor and a scal- six final bidders for the division. A Manhattan federal judge granted Seven For All Mankind LLC a loped interior that moves visitors in a giant figure Following the sale of BHI, which also compris- permanent injunction and final judgment on consent in a suit filed eight. Fifteen percent of the assortment is C.O. es the E45, Nurofen, Strepsils, Lutsine, Sweetex against Samarie Inc. Samarie is restrained from manufacturing, dis- Bigelow’s own line and/or products owned by and Optrex brands, Boots will return approxi- tributing or selling products that have unauthorized copies of the Limited Brands (Wexler’s skin care line, Slatkin & mately 1.43 billion pounds, or $2.53 billion, to its Seven For All Mankind trademark on them. The lawsuit was dis- Co.’s home fragrance products and Henri Bendel’s shareholders in a special dividend, while 400 mil- missed with prejudice. No monetary costs were assigned to either candles, for example). lion pounds, or $707 million, will be invested in party in the case. The original complaint had five counts including Limited also opened a C.O. Bigelow location Boots and Alliance Boots. allegations of federal trademark infringement and counterfeiting, near Boston in Peabody, Mass., on Friday. The BHI deal, which is subject to antitrust and federal unfair competition and false designation of origin, federal Executives disclosed: Boots shareholder approval, is expected to close in dilution and other state level claims. Samarie declined to comment. ● Starting at holiday, Slatkin will unroll table 2006. The Boots merger with Alliance UniChem is Louis Vuitton Malletier filed a trademark and patent suit against linens, candlesticks and other home accessories in anticipated to be concluded by next year, as well. Sasha Handbags Inc., Errol B. Devli and John Does for allegedly C.O. Bigelow stores. Slatkin said he is planning an — Brid Costello “copying, misappropriating the goodwill and riding the coattails” of the trade dress and design patents of its Suhali Le Fabuleux and Theda handbags. The complaint lists 16 counts including trade dress infringement, patent infringement, unfair competition and trade- mark infringement. Some of the allegations pertain to the handbags, Zara to Open South Beach Unit others specifically to the Serrure S-Lock clasp on the bags in ques- tion, according to the court document. Louis Vuitton requested pre- NEW YORK — Zara, the Spanish fashion chain, Zara has three other Florida stores, in the liminary and permanent injunctions against Sasha Handbags against is coming to South Beach, Fla., with a 10,000- Aventura and Dadeland malls, both in the using the trade dresses and trademark in question. The luxe firm square-foot, one-level store, according to Gene Miami area, and in the Millenia mall in also asked for unspecified monetary damages, including pre-judg- Spiegelman, executive director of Cushman & Orlando. ment interest. Sasha Handbags could not be reached for comment. Wakefield, the real estate company representing As far as remaining space in The 500 Block of Meanwhile, a stipulation and order signed by Manhattan Federal the landlord on the deal. Collins Avenue, “There’s 5,000 square feet left Court Judge Gerald E. Lynch dismissed a claim and counterclaim in- Zara will be in The 500 Block of Collins and five slots to fill,” Spiegelman said. “We are volving Louis Vuitton Malletier and Conscious Corp., in accordance Avenue, an urban retail development in the negotiating with contemporary apparel and ac- with a settlement agreement reached in July 2005. The deal stipulat- heart of South Beach, and a block from the cessory firms to complete the leasing.” ed Louis Vuitton’s claims against Conscious Corp. and Conscious ocean. Equinox already took a 25,000-square- Jeffrey C. Paisner, executive managing direc- Corp.’s counterclaims against Louis Vuitton would be dismissed with foot space on the development’s second floor. tor of The Lansco Corp., represented Zara, a di- prejudice. The settlement required the court to retain jurisdiction Zara will have two entrances, for its women’s vision of Inditex, based in La Coruna, Spain. over future dealings between the two firms. The original complaint, and men’s collections, and is expected to open “Zara continues to get positive results in diverse filed in June 2004, alleged Conscious infringed on Louis Vuitton’s around the end of this year or in early 2006, areas of the country and continues to look for Toile Monogram and Toile Monogram Multicolore product lines. Spiegelman said. It will be on the northeast cor- opportunities,” Paisner said. — Liza Casabona ner of Sixth Street and Collins Avenue. — David Moin WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 10, 2005 19 WWD.COM

OFFICE POLITICS: According to the ABC source, almost all the big Unemployment Rate The fallout from publishing companies, including Time Inc., Hearst and the magazine Hachette Filipacchi, will cast their votes for him, MEMO PAD industry’s ongoing meaning Rock, who is not well known in the industry, circulation- would need near-unanimous support from small Rises 0.2% in Month reporting woes is getting personal. After 14 years on publishers to win. Besides, added the source, with new the Audit Bureau of Circulations’ board, Peter Armour, rules governing sponsored subscriptions already in By Evan Clark ment store payrolls shrunk by senior vice president of consumer marketing for Condé place, changing the magazine industry’s representation 4,400 to 1.6 million. Nast Publications (parent of WWD), faces a challenge would have little effect. “There’s nothing to argue WASHINGTON — U.S. employers Job cuts in retail and other for his seat at next month’s annual meeting. David about at this point. The publishers have made their cut payrolls by 35,000 jobs in sectors, including leisure and Rock, director of online and partnerships at Ziff Davis bed. The advertisers have the upper hand.” September after the devastation hospitality, overwhelmed gains Media, is campaigning for Armour’s spot, claiming Neither Rock nor Armour responded to requests of Hurricane Katrina, less than in areas such as business servic- Armour has been insufficiently energetic in for comment. — Jeff Bercovici the 150,000 anticipated by econ- es, health care and construction. representing publishers’ concerns. omists but still viewed as poten- The employment report, how- Armour responded last week with a letter to ABC FAST TIMES: Teen People’s new managing editor, Lori tially damaging to consumer ever, brought a bit of hope for members defending his tenure on the board and asking Majewski, said her goal is to turn the magazine into spending. U.S. apparel and textile produc- for support. “The individual “a monthly that thinks like a The unemployment rate rose ers in the form of a revision that opposing me has every right to weekly.” One easy way to do to 5.1 percent from a four-year added 3,000 jobs to the August do so,” he wrote. “However, that: Hire a bunch of former low of 4.9 percent in August, ac- count, said Charles McMillion, does he have the understanding colleagues from her days as cording to the Labor Department. president and chief economist at of the inner workings of ABC, executive editor of Us Weekly. The drop in payrolls followed a MBG Information Services. the experience to deal with some Jeremy Helligar, who left Us last gain of 211,000 jobs in August. Still, September showed a of the most important advertisers year to become a senior editor “Even though the estimates continuation of the decade-long and advertising agency chief at Entertainment Weekly, is are much better than anticipat- trend of workforce cuts, with executives from the top making an intra-Time Inc. ed, they’re still going to reinforce 1,400 job losses at apparel manu- organizations in the U.S. today?” transition to become deputy some of that consumer thinking facturers to 253,900, and a drop of ABC’s board has 36 seats in editor in charge of features, and about where the job market is 300 at textile mills to 221,400. total, 19 of which are held by Shirley Halperin, a staff editor at and very likely result in less con- Textile product mills managed an advertisers and agencies, and Us, has signed on as West sumer spending than would have uptick of 800 workers to 178,700. the rest of which belong to Coast editor. Halperin replaces otherwise been the case,” said “All things considered, quite a newspaper and magazine Lauren Tabach-Bank, who left Ken Goldstein, an economist good report for the textile and companies. According to a last month to head up Celebrity with The Conference Board. apparel industry,” McMillion source with strong ties to ABC, Living’s West Coast bureau. Goldstein predicted another said. “Employers are waiting to board members running for Majewski is also trying to up job loss in October and small see what’s going to happen with reelection go unopposed almost Teen People’s metabolism more gains for the balance of the year. the various measures on imports, without exception. That Rock directly, by accelerating the “The bottom line is, one, this with the storm [impact] and with saw fit to contest Armour’s seat turnaround time on news is not the end of it and, two, consumer demand. There’s a lot is a sign of how frustrated many stories. When she took over a even though the number was of question about constraints on circulation executives are with month ago, Hurricane Katrina much better than anticipated, imports from China.” the balance of power within the ABC. “If you’d had had just hit New Orleans. Her staff informed her that don’t expect any quick turn- U.S. trade negotiators are different representation over the past 15 years, you it would be too late to get coverage of the disaster around,” he said. heading to Beijing this week to would have had a lot more mutual respect [between into the November issue, which was set to close in a The consumer’s mood will continue talks for a broad deal to publishers and advertisers],” claimed the source. week. “I was like, ‘Do you know how much you can most immediately impact stores, restrict Chinese apparel and tex- “You wouldn’t have had all these scandals.” do in a week?’” she recalled. The story appears on which contributed to September’s tile imports. Such imports shot Nevertheless, Armour’s board seat appears safe. page 102. — J.B. decline in employment. Apparel up 65.5 percent to $13 billion for and accessories retailers shed the first seven months of the year. 27,500 workers last month to em- The outcome of the negotia- ploy 1.4 million, after holding em- tions could impact domestic em- ployment steady in August. Em- ployment, McMillion said, adding, ployment at general merchandise “I don’t think it will be dramatic, stores fell by 7,300 workers to 2.9 but on the margins, I think it million. Within this group, depart- could make quite a difference.” Doneger Group Buys Tobe By David Moin

NEW YORK — The Doneger Group, expanding its network of in- formation and advisory services, has acquired Tobe, another well-known consulting organization that publishes the Tobe Report on fashion trends. Officials of both firms said the Tobe Report will operate inde- pendently as a division of Doneger. Tobe’s 15 retail and fashion merchandising analysts will remain at Tobe headquarters at 501 Fifth Avenue here. Financial terms of the deal weren’t disclosed. Kathy Deane, president of Tobe, will report to Abbey Doneger, president of The Doneger Group. “My intent is to provide Kathy with the resources to build the Tobe business,” Doneger said in an interview Thursday. He said Tobe would “complement our own business with additional talent and services,” and that no changes will be made to the Tobe team. “Through our affiliation with The Doneger Group, we will have access to new resources that will enable us to build the Tobe brand and, in particular, develop our Tobe Insights consult- ing business,’’ Deane said in a statement. The 75-year-old Tobe Report is published almost 40 times during the year. Tobe also provides consulting services to retailers and has worked with Bloomingdale’s and Saks Fifth Avenue, among others. Doneger Group, located at 463 Seventh Avenue here, was founded in 1946 as a buying office. It still offers some buying serv- ices, but in recent years has evolved into a consulting firm and market source for trends and customized merchandising strategies for retail and fashion companies in many countries. Doneger oper- ates with merchandising market analysts and a “creative services” team, and also has an online marketplace that offers dozens of vir- tual supplier showrooms. Doneger Group is expected to open a 3,000-square-foot office this month in the California Market Center in Los Angeles. The company also beefed up its staff of market analysts, adding Amanda Hallay, who is based in Paris, to cover European trade events and trends, and Renee Roman, a former market editor at Seventeen magazine, to cover contemporary sportswear. 20 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 10, 2005 WWD.COM U.S. Feeling Heat on WTO Rule Cassini’s Golden Moment By Kristi Ellis serious prejudice” to Brazilian cotton farmers, NEW YORK — For the man of the hour, it must have been over- Roberto Azevedo, Brazil’s general coordinator for whelming. WASHINGTON — As Brazil pressured the Bush ad- trade disputes, said in Geneva. But Azevedo said Well-wishers, old friends, long-lost acquaintances and complete ministration to comply with a World Trade Brazil is interested in trying to work this out with strangers to Oleg Cassini poured into the National Arts Club Thurs- Organization ruling urging the elimination or modifi- the U.S. in the “best possible way.” day to watch him pick up the third annual gold medal for fashion. cation of cotton subsidy programs, a key Senate com- U.S. cotton growers, merchants and textile mills And watch him they did. A stream of admirers wound their way mittee proposed a legislative package that would stand to lose millions of dollars in subsidies with through the historic club’s crowded rooms to meet the designer, end one of the payment programs by mid-2006. the abandonment or modification of the programs. who was tucked away on a sofa, chatting with the sea of guests. Brazil filed a request Thursday with the WTO’s “It has been the position of the industry to main- Inscriptions on a photograph of Jackie Kennedy and her sister, Dispute Settlement Body for authorization to re- tain the [Step 2] program through the life of the Lee Radziwill, spelled out enthusiasm from a bygone era. “For Oleg, taliate with more than $1 billion in punitive sanc- farm bill, through July 31, 2008,” said Neal Gillen, who made us the two best-dressed women in Asia,” Kennedy wrote. tions against the U.S. because of its failure to re- executive vice president and general counsel of the “Au revoir Givenchy, Bonjour Cassini,” Radziwill added. spond by Sept. 21 to the panel’s finding that U.S. American Cotton Shippers’ Association. “However, In addition to dressing the former first lady in her White cotton subsidies breached global trade rules. the realities of the situation are such that members House days, Cassini was also heralded for his marriage to Gene Meanwhile, the Senate Agriculture, Nutrition of Congress are concerned about possible retalia- Tierney and romance with Grace Kelly. A closer inspection of the and Forestry Committee, in an effort to comply tion by Brazil and wanted to get it behind them.” evening’s program showed he was born a Russian count, worked with the WTO, has drafted a proposal to eliminate Gillen said textile mills would take the biggest as a Paramount Pictures costume designer in 1940, signed U.S. “Step 2” payments, which aid cotton farmers, hit from the elimination of Step 2. Removing the Johnny Carson as his first celebrity model in 1967 and designed a textile mills and exporters, by the end of the cur- federal program from the equation in midstream, Matador car for American Motors in 1974, among other things. A rent marketing year next July 31. after mills have committed to cotton contracts, few were impressed with Cassini’s personal style. William The fight stems from a September 2002 WTO has many executives concerned. Norwich said, “I like his red velvet jacket. I just bought one from complaint filed by Brazil alleging that U.S. cotton “Textile mills will undoubtedly suffer the most,” Alexander McQueen.” subsidies depressed global cotton prices and were Gillen said. “They will lose an assistance package illegal. The Bush administration sent a proposal that has been very helpful for some years.” Oleg Cassini to Congress to eliminate or modify payments for Payments to textile mills, cotton farmers and marketing loans, user marketing (Step 2), market exporters under the program totaled $2.4 billion loan assistance and counter-cyclical payments. between 1995 and 2004, according to the Environ- The Senate committee included its Step 2 pro- mental Working Group, a consumer advocacy posal in a larger budget reconciliation package group opposing agriculture subsidies, based on that has not been voted on in committee. figures from the U.S. Department of Agriculture. “We want the U.S. to either withdraw the subsi- — With contributions from dies or the adverse implications that are causing John Zarocostas, Geneva Ross Klein to Steer Starwood’s ‘Aloft’

NEW YORK — After sprucing up W Hotels to give it more of a fashion-minded finish, Ross Klein has William Calvert, Lavelle Olexa, Joanna Mastroianni, Carol Alt, been promoted to president of the chain by its par- Ruth Finley and Stan Herman, a Cassini employee in the Fifties, ent company Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide. represented Seventh Avenue in the crowd of more than 400. For Klein, who was previously senior vice president his part, Cassini cut his teeth in the fashion world at Jean Patou, and chief marketing officer, will be the go-to exec- noted Olexa in her remarks honoring him. She also mentioned utive for the branding and development of “aloft,” how Cassini moved to Hollywood “with his tennis racquet, his tal- a new W-inspired hotel chain Starwood is launch- ent and his immense charm.” ing. In tune with the design-friendly ways of com- Having known Cassini since she got her start as a gossip panies like Target, MINI, Jet Blue and Gap, aloft columnist working for his brother Igor, who wrote under the aims to “reinvent point-to-point travel” by giving A rendering of an “aloft” room. moniker “Cholly Knickerbocker,” Liz Smith recalled the design- guests style and good value, Klein said during an er’s more rambunctious days. “I feel really sorry for all you young interview Friday. targeted ones. The company expects to open 150 to people. I doubt any of you ever saw the Kazatchok dance by the “We want to design a comfortable environment 300 alofts within the next three years; the average Cassini brothers in El Morocco. The Cassini brothers could do that would no longer be an apologetic experience,” room rate will be $129 nightly, Klein said. that dance every night and go home and have sex.” he said. “Point-to-point travel can be an isolating ex- Earvin “Magic” Johnson has signed on as a “The Brothers Cassini were a phenomenon in New York society. perience. After driving for 13 or 14 hours alone in partner to open aloft hotels in urban markets and Mrs. Vreeland said, ‘They had joie de vivre.’” Smith said. “They your car, you reach your hotel and are handed a plas- David Rockwell, the architect who worked on two also had sex appeal and they were real gentlemen.” tic key and put in a cell. We’ve broken that paradigm.” W properties here, is designing the aloft ones as “They not only liked women; they liked to fight for women and During his seven-year tenure at W, Klein, a former well. Aloft will be loftlike spaces with 9-foot ceil- for the honor of women. At the least little thing, they would leap senior executive at Ralph Lauren and Polo Jeans, has ings and each corridor will have sizable windows up and leave you at the table,” Smith said. “To know the two of been busy putting his fashion background to good use for plenty of natural light. Aloft properties will them was to know that no one would ever mess with you.” recruiting designers like Diane von Furstenberg to have The Commons, a WiFi communal area to en- In business for 75 years, Cassini chalked up his longevity in part get involved. Similar alliances are in the works for courage guests to interact “to break the boredom to sports and “the pursuit of happiness through women and the aloft. Starwood tapped Y-3 to design the conceptual and fatigue of being alone in a hotel room,” as well arena.” Referring to the former, he recalled how he finished second uniforms for its aloft project, but has not yet named a as Re:Fuel, an area for grab-’n’-go food overseen “by a whisker,” but beat a horse called Gianni Versace at his debut in designer for the permanent uniforms. by a soon-to-be-named well-known chef and The professional standard bred horse racing with trotters in Yonkers, Klein now reports to Starwood’s chief execu- Park, a parking lot with plenty of trees, Klein said. N.Y. Cassini encouraged the audience to follow his plan: “Exercise tive officer Steven Heyer. The hotels will also have fireplaces, waterfalls, and desire, the burning desire, to always compete and to never be The first aloft groundbreaking is planned for swimming pools, gyms geared for stretching to help licked even by malady and such things.” next year, with secondary markets like Austin, Tex., travelers get the kinks out and areas for car washing. — Rosemary Feitelberg

Tampa, Fla., and Raleigh, N.C., being among the — R.F. YAO JAY CASSINI PHOTO BY WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 10, 2005 21

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New York (212)369-3778 [email protected] Miami (305)556-9122 22 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 10, 2005

Production Coordinator CHF Industries, Inc., a leader in textile home furnishings, has an immediate opening for a Production Coordinator in its New York office. Minimum of 2 to 4 years experience. Import experience required. Candidate will initiate purchase orders, communicate with overseas vendors and suppliers, and follow-up on sample and production deliveries. Good communication skills, organization and attention to detail Accessories/Handbag Buyer are needed to be successful. Computer skills with Excel spreadsheets required. Candidates should send resume with The Cato Corporation ,aleading specialty retailer of cover letter including recent salary history to: value-priced women’s fashion apparel, has an exceptional [email protected] or fax to 704-522-4704 with opportunity for a Accessories/Handbag Buyer in our Corporate "Production Coordinator" in the subject line. Office in Charlotte, NC. The desired candidate will possess a proven history of successful buying in accessory/handbag buying and product VP GENERAL development. This individual will be results oriented, creative and analytical. Cato offers competitive salary, MERCHANDISE MANAGER bonus, medical, dental, life, disability, 401(k) plan and other benefit programs. Excellent Opportunity For Space in Garment Center For consideration, please submit your resume and salary Helmsley-Spear, Inc. requirements to The Cato Corporation, PO Box 34216, 50M Apparel Mfr. seeks experienced General Merchandise 212-880-0414 Charlotte, NC 28234, fax to: (704)551-7246 Mgrs for key account management. Must be passionate Search For Space In Garment Center or email: [email protected] about the retail market and have long standing relationships Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee and contacts. Relocation not required. www.midcomre.com Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 $200K Strong Incentives / Confidentiality Assured High-End Men’s Clothing Showroom PH- 2200 Ft. Full Floor Acct’s Receivable 5,000-20,000 Ft- $16. Great Space Store seeking SALES ASSOCIATES Fax 732-280-6190 [email protected] Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 Bookkeeper Search- www.manhattanoffices.com & MANAGER to join our team! Must be energetic, self-motivated DESIGNER WANTED PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Showrooms & Lofts professional w/1-3 yrs of retail Expanding accessory co. is seeks crea- COORDINATOR BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Fast paced outerwear co. in tive, self motivated design assoc. w/ sales exp. for Sales Associates min. 2 yrs exp. Must have knowl. of Est’d sportswear co seeks Prod Coord w/ Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Midtown seeks A/R book- excellent computer skills incl. MS Word ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 position and 2-5 yrs of Retail Photoshop / Illustrator & ability to hand keeper w/3+yrs exp. in similar sketch. Sample process from concept &Adobe Illust. Should have excellent Mgnt exp. for Manager position organization & problem solving skills position, strong computer to production specs a must. Room to aMUST.Qualified Candidates grow. Email resumes to: w/ exp in either Woven Fabrics or Den- skills & bookkeeping abilities. please E-mail resumes to: [email protected] im & general garment construction. Duties include: factoring, Assist with daily communication w/ Factory MGR to $100K Current exp agents regarding fabric and garment billing, cash application, [email protected] managing factory of men’s or women’s development. Track sample status, 15th Street Showroom/School chargebacks, collections & woven shirts/ blouses. Supv. 250 in N. including logging in samples, fabric 2700 sq. ft. ground floor w/high ceiling client contact. Must be org, E. PA area. Will relo. Call 973-564-9236 development tracking & approvals, CUTTER including color approvals. Send Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 detail oriented w/excellent Knit Fabrics Hand Cutter resume: www [email protected] www.dumann.com Graphic Artist communication skills. Wanted for small Brooklyn Factory. Major apparel company seeks Graphic Warehouse Receiving Manager 718-965-5192 Artist. Responsibilities include art/ Fast paced apparel co. seeks exp. ware- 214 West 39th Street emb./print development as well as house receiving manager. Daily re- E-mail resume to: Production Assistant sponsibilities include receiving, break- New York City Showroom is currently DATA ENTRY $35,000 compiling production packs. Skill need Fast paced Accessory co seeks person [email protected] in sketching bodies and garment con- ing down containers, inventory control, being offered to share; $1,100 per month Enter orders, general to order price tickets/cards/labels etc staging orders. Must be computer literate. Please contact our office: 212-944-1077 or fax 212-273-1170 office duties. Growth! struction detail. Knowledge of Adobe to send to overseas vendors. Must have Illustrator and Photoshop required. Knowledge of retail a plus. [email protected] good computer skills and follow Sal+Benefits. GW Bridge Area Showrooms - 5th Ave + Soho to 57th St. Please Fax resume to 212-239-2766 through skills. Sal+Ben. GW Bridge Area Hot Lofts - Wood Fl. + Light ACCESSORY DESIGNER $$$$$ Email resumes: [email protected] *Handbags-Mass Mkt DESIGNER $70’s Email Resume: [email protected] Fax: 201-840-4177 Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 HANDBAG DESIGNER Fax: 201-840-4177 Search- www.manhattanoffices.com *Backpacks-Licensed Handbags *Assistants-All Areas Better Market For New Branded Division at Large Proficiency in Photoshop/Illustrator [email protected] Multi Product Line Accessories Co. [email protected] Designer will have Minimum 5 Years PRODUCTION Exp. in All Apsects of Building, Shap- Accountant-Controller to $80K. Current Designer ing, and Launching a Better Designer COORDINATOR/ exp in domestic manufacturing of Line Geared To Department and Spe- apparel req’d. Some costing. Will relocate Associate Designer KNITWEAR Major apparel company seeks Associate cialty Stores. Previous Overseas Exp. to northeast PA area. Call 973-564-9236 A Must. Excellent Sal. and Benefits. High-end sweater importer needs a Los Angeles "New Mart" Designer with min. 3 years experience detail-oriented individual to correspond in infant/toddler girls. Individual should Fax Resumes to: (201) 840-4177 Fast growing denim line currently seeks E-Mail:[email protected] with overseas vendors & handle all a small space to rent in the New Mart Admin. Assistant be able to work within design room/ aspects of production. Import/textile in Los Angeles , CA. Please contact us at: Busy multi brands showroom is looking sample room environment. Must have experience preferred. Proficiency in Valmor Apparel New York / 212-944-1077 for entry level person with knowledge knowledge Illustrator and Photoshop. KOOBA English, Word/ Excel a must. of Word/Excel & E-mail. Must be well Fax resume 212-239-2766 Please fax or email resume to: spoken, presentable and willing to learn Design Assistant Designer Handbag Company seeks highly (212) 575-1781 / and grow with our company. Please [email protected] Fax resumes to: 212-221-7014 motivated, organized, detail oriented Designer/Associate Design/Production Asst. Ideal candidate Major apparel company seeks will have 3 years experience in overseas Designer/Associate with minimum 3 handbag production, possess strong Production Director/ Admin Immed years experience. Individual should computer skills and sketching ability. Recruiter have strong athletic background and Salary commensurate with experience. Merchandising Learn the recruitment business. be able to work within design Established mfr. seeks a candidate Strong sales skills required. room/sample room environment. Accts. Receivable Bookkeeper with min eight to ten years work expe- [email protected] Fax resume 212-239-2766 A/R Bookkeeper with strong computer rience. Ability to communicate with Designer/small Mfr of quality, HIP skills needed. Experience with factoring, design team and retail buyers. Knowl- contemporary lingerie collection, look- collections and QuickBooks required. edge of fabric, garment construction Apparel Staffing LTD DESIGNER IMMED ing for a company to finance produce Designer-Exp w/Junior Sweaters Must be highly organized and detail and costing for coats. Overseas and and distribute the brand. KNITS oriented.E-mail: [email protected] or domestic travel required. Great salary Designer-Exp. Knit & Woven Tops Wms $50,000 Please fax: 917-464-3695 or Designer-Wm’s Casual weekend wear Fax resume to: (212) 777-5125 and benefits for the right candidate. email: [email protected] Great Company Please fax resume to 212-643-0593 Sourcing Coord. Bi -Lingual Chinese Wm’s Wr [email protected] Spec Tech-Children’s Wr Exp MARKETING MANAGER Sr Tech Designer-Exp w/PDM & Bi-Lingual PRODUCT DESIGNER Production Immed Tech Dsgnr/Patternmaker-Childrens Wr Exp Designer Immed New Era Cap, the global leader in branded Recruiter Recruiter Call Alan Wolf headwear, is looking to fill Marketing Learn the recruitment business. Phone (212)302-0216 Fax(212)302-1161 Learn the recruitment business. Mgr. and Product Designer positions. Strong sales skills required. Strong sales skills required. Must have apparel branding or design [email protected] [email protected] experience and a passion for our product. PATTERN/SAMPLES Assistant Designer Must be willing to relocate to Buffalo. Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Better/Bridge Eveningwear Mfg is Designer Send salary requirements and resume to: Production Sourcing MGR $120-150K work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 seeking a highly creative and organ- E-mail: [email protected] Current exp in girls infant to 16 knits ized individual responsible for all as- LEAD DESIGNER and wovens. Strong relationships with Patterns/Samples/Beading pects of design. Must be experienced Major apparel company seeks Lead factories WW that produces kidswear. in sketching and spec(ing) for overseas Designer with experience in trendy, Duplicates Cut & Sew PATTERNMAKER Strong in sourcing, follow-up, admin. sample making and fabric research. junior line. Position will target Wal-Mart FREELANCE Technical knowledge of construction Fast & Full Service- Production Computer skills a must. customers. Excellent salary & benefits. of garments. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 Specializing in Denim. Ideal for Send resume to : Please fax resume to 212-239-2766 North Jersey/NYC Area. T: (267) 987-6345 [email protected] or PATTERNS, SAMPLES, fax: 212.764.5845 RETAIL FASHION DESIGNER PATTERNMAKER District Mgr/Hi-Fashion $80K PRODUCTIONS Seeking patternmaker with women’s Store Mgrs /NYC&Westchr/French $70K All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. CAD Design MGR $100-120K. Current Men’s apparel company seeks versatile men’s wear designer with experience sportswear background including lined Asst Controller/Retail exp $60K Call Sherry 212-719-0622. exp. in surface design. Prints & yarn jackets, pants; plus sizes, missy. Good Acct Exec/Hi-end Textile co $50K+ comm dyes. Follow-up on strike-offs. Supervise in sportswear, especially athletic apparel, to design hot national brand. w/detail, organized, able to work in a Sales Assocs/Madison Av $35K + % 2. Womenswear or kidswear exp ok. fast paced setting. Must have computer FAX: 212-481-4086 [email protected] PATTERNS, SAMPLES, U4ia, Illustrator, Photoshop. 34th St. Urban experience a plus. Experience with sample making required. skills. Proficiency in Gerber PDS is PRODUCTIONS @ 7th Ave. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy highly preferable, but will train if necessary. Full servcie shop to the trade. Excellent salary & benefits. Sales Immed Please fax resume to 212-239-2766 Fax resume and salary req. to Yelena: Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Fax:212-444-6019 Recruiter CHILDREN’S Learn the recruitment business. PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD DESIGNER $OPEN$ PLANNER $55,000 Strong sales skills required. High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- COMPUTER DIRECTOR Retail link [email protected] sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 FOOTWEAR Great Company ARTIST [email protected] [email protected] Major Childrenswear Company seeks a talented & experienced Girls Artist to SPEC TECHNICIAN work in Illustrator & Photoshop. Must Designer/to $80k PROD-DEVL/DESIGNER ASST Major apparel company seeks Spec be able to draw flats, create prints, MEN’S LOUNGEWEAR Est’d NY ladies Belt Company seeks a Technician w/children’s wear experience. plaids, appliques and embroideries. For estab. co’s. trendsetting branded designer w/ some exp, to work in a fast Ideal candidate will have knowledge of Min 2 yrs. experience in Girls apparel. urban/sports inspired lines. Req: paced environment, organizational skills garment construction, technical design Need to see astrong portfolio that in- hands on designer with men’s/boy’s amust. A strong Junior fashion eye and pattern making background. Excel How To Start A Fashion Co, cludes boards. Good working condi- loungewear expr., trend savvy, strong very important. Work from development and pattern correction sketching skills & PR Workshops tions plus benefits. Illustrator/Photoshop skills. and follow through assisting in sales. necessary. Position requires daily 212-260-7217 / www.funkylala.com Email resumes to: E-mail resume:[email protected] Great opportunity to grow. Great benefits. communication with overseas contacts. www.mshopnyc.com [email protected] (Fax) 917-591-2521 (Tel) 212-481-1941 Send resume to [email protected] Please fax resume to 212-239-2766 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 10, 2005 23 Obituaries WWD.COM Lawrence E. Heller, Ex-Carleton Mills CEO Brooks Bros. to Open NEW YORK — Lawrence E. Heller, the former the years, Heller served as a vice president of president and chief executive officer of Carleton styling and marketing before becoming an execu- First Store in London Woolen Mills, died Oct. 1 at a hospital near his tive vice president. home in Langhorne, Pa. He was 60. In 1994, he was named president and chief MILAN — Leapfrogging ahead John Hind, who has worked The cause of death was cancer. operating officer. A year later, Heller became of its slated 2006 Paris arrival, with Arcadia, Pepe Jeans After graduating from the Philadelphia ceo, taking over from Arthur M. Spiro, who had Brooks Brothers is about to London and Debenhams, has College of Textiles and Science, Heller began his held the position since 1980. Heller’s stint as ceo enter the U.K. market. been tapped as the company’s textile career with the woolen division of J.P. ended in 2000, when Carleton’s parent company, The Retail Brand Alliance- U.K. managing director. Stevens & Co., which traced its roots back to 1813. Allied Textiles Co., closed the business. owned retailer will open a 3,200- The Lion Plaza store will Heller moved to Carleton Woolen Mills in Heller is survived by his wife, Lois; a son; a square-foot space in the presti- stock the complete men’s cloth- 1971, where he spent the rest of his career. Over daughter, and two grandchildren. gious Lion Plaza on Old Broad ing collection and offer its made- Street in London at the end of to-measure service. Fit will be the month. Manlio Massa, Retail based on Brooks Brothers’ slim- Brand Alliance’s European man- mer European model. aging director, said the company The venerable men’s wear Gianni Radici, Founded Radici Group, 81 is also in negotiations to secure clothier made its first foray into a flagship space on Regent Europe when it opened a Milan MILAN — Gianni Radici, founder of the chemi- Latin America. In the Fifties, the company started Street for a spring 2006 opening. flagship in 2003 and followed up cal and textile company Radici Group, died Oct. producing rugs, fabrics, carpeting and car mats. In Brooks Brothers is based on with a second outlet in Florence. 5 at the age of 81 following a long illness. the Sixties and Seventies, Radici started manufac- traditional English tailoring and Massa said the company is scout- A funeral mass for Radici was celebrated last turing polymers and synthetic fibers and over the still sources some of its fabrics ing for a location in Rome. All of Saturday in the Parish Church of Leffe near next few decades it expanded into the chemicals from the U.K. Although British Brooks Brothers’ stores are di- Bergamo in northern Italy. and plastics industries. The textile division spe- retailer Marks & Spencer owned rectly owned and operated. Radici, inheriting a blanket company from his cializes in fabrics for sportswear and home fur- the brand from 1988 to 2001, it On the wholesale level, father, Pietro Radici, established Tessiture Pietro nishings. One of its best-known clients is Benetton. never really had a presence in Massa said the brand wrapped Radici in 1946. The company, now called Radici “To talk about Radici does not mean talking the country. up its first selling season in Group, is based in Val Gandino, also in the merely about companies, success, entrepreneur- Massa said Brooks’ U.K. en- Germany and will be in 20 stores Bergamo area. He held the president and chief ex- ship and farsightedness. It also means taking about trance came about through a in that country by spring 2006. ecutive officer titles until the mid-Nineties, at passion, a love for his family, and altruism,” Radici joint venture with a private in- In Italy the brand is currently which point he became honorary president of the Group said in a statement on the company Web site. vestor. The investor’s name was sold in 120 top specialty retail- company. His son Angelo Radici is the current ceo. The company recalled the executive’s generosi- not revealed, but Massa said he ers, and Massa said wholesale During his tenure, Gianni Radici engineered ty and humanitarian values, stating that Radici was a personal friend of RBA rollouts are expected in Spain the company’s diversification strategy and interna- once said: “I only need money in order to procure president and chief executive and France. tional expansion into Europe, the U.S., China and work for people.” officer Claudio Del Vecchio. — Courtney Colavita 24 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 10, 2005 WWD.COM Chic of the Atomic Reaction Week NEW YORK — Atom Egoyan has always been attracted to edgy material. His film, “Exotica,” was about a man who becomes sexually obsessed with the eye® stripper baby-sitter of his dead daughter. “The Sweet Hereafter,” about the effects of a school bus crash in a small town, explored — without opprobrium — an incestuous relationship between a father and daughter. In the Canadian director’s new film, “Where the Truth Lies,” out Friday, he again tackles issues of sexual obsession and voyeurism. A noir-ish meditation on celebrity journalism that bounces between the Fifties and the early Seventies, it stars Colin Firth and Kevin Bacon as a Dean Martin-Jerry Lewis-like showbiz team whose lives are turned upside down when a young reporter (Alison Lohman) sets out to write a tell-all biography about them and becomes obsessed with a murder they may have committed years before while at their peak. Colin Firth and Kevin Bacon in “Where the Truth Lies.” Unfortunately, the Motion Picture Association of America had WWD: What made you want to do this movie? problems with the film’s sex scenes and gave it an NC-17 rating. A.E.: [The book upon which it was based] was the most delirious WWD spoke with Egoyan about male nudity, the state of and entertaining read. I was also really drawn to the early celebrity and the mores that separate Canadians from Americans. Seventies, which was a very important time for me musically and in terms of my own formation of what celebrity meant. It WWD: Were you surprised at the MPAA’s decision? was exciting to explore the relationship we have toward stars Atom Egoyan: Completely. I think this is the most accessible set against a murder mystery. I love noir and neo-noirs. film I’ve ever done. It was always intended for a wide audience and I signed a contract to deliver an R- WWD: What are some of your favorites? rated version. But the central scene A.E.: “Sunset Boulevard,” “The Killers,” they’re talking about is absolutely “Double Indemnity.” I also consider essential to the logic and emotional “Touch of Evil” a noir. You have to go coherence of the movie. You cannot take into the Seventies and look at films by it out. And my producers backed me up Alan Pakula, films like “Klute,” the on this. Altman movies of that period….A good noir deals with the notion of fate and a Jennifer WWD: So where does that leave you? character who is somehow caught up in a Connelly A.E.: We’ve decided to go out unclassified. machine that is intelligently toying or But I’m shocked only because I’ve seen, or playing with their circumstance. I think I’ve seen, films that go further. I think that what was transgressive to the WWD: As an Armenian who grew up in Unlike many Hollywood actresses, risk- MPAA is that it’s movie stars in a [sex] Canada, what sort of place did Martin taker Jennifer Connelly isn’t afraid to use scene that looks like a studio movie. And and Lewis hold for you? a red-carpet appearance as an that makes them feel it’s somehow A.E.: Well, I was raised on the west coast of opportunity to experiment with new crossing the line. Otherwise, it makes no Canada and I remember the feeling of designers and silhouettes. In her latest sense. There’s no hard core. It’s as waking up Sunday morning and seeing the incarnation as co-host of a screening of tastefully done as possible. tail end of a telethon [with Martin and Luis Manzoni’s “Innocent Voices” The film Lewis] and just being amazed at the sheer (considered to be a contender for a WWD: Is it correct to assume they’re director physical endurance that it required. I don’t foreign film Oscar nomination) at the more squeamish about male nudity, Atom Egoyan. think you can create any separation of United Nations Thursday night, which this film has some of? what we see as Canadian kids. All of our Connelly pushed the style envelope in a A.E.: I will say that the most surprising thing about going towns are within 200 miles of the States. What we might have is a navy cotton smock blouse and a purple through the appeal was that I was told there would be 10 bit more distance from [the celebrity thing]. silk taffeta, high-waisted, draped people in the room and I counted 12. When I asked them who “saloon” cigarette skirt from Vera the other two were, they said they were members of the clergy. WWD: How so? Wang’s spring 2006 collection. True, I said, “So is that normal? Do they usually have members of the A.E.: We’re incapable of mythologizing ourselves. It’s both the the midcalf hemline and puff- clergy?” And, apparently, they do. They don’t vote, but they’re good and bad thing about our sensibility. It comes from living so shouldered top might not be everyone’s there for the discussion — a secret discussion — which you close to a cultural behemoth. We’re trained to observe it and to sartorial cup of tea. But when tastefully can’t attend. I said, “Does it rotate? Do you have rabbis? create, but we don’t have that strange sense of despair that you accessorized, as Connelly did with a Orthodox priests?” And they said, “No.” It’s always the same see in places like L.A., where everyone feels that they’re owed. black satin clutch, Louis Vuitton peep- two members of the clergy — one Catholic and one Which is why Americans think we’re so nice. When we talk, we toe slingbacks and her own delicate Episcopalian. I think it goes without saying that that’s going to just don’t have that kind of madness. jewelry, the look proved to be both slant their opinion in some way. — Jacob Bernstein elegant and fashion-forward.

and he produced her record, “Be Careful What You Wish Gabby La La For,” on his own label, Prawn Song Records. She’s also insideinside FAOFAO become part of his entourage, and will be performing Schwarz. with Claypool at the brand-new Nokia Theater on Oct. 21. LaLa Land Her success shocks Gabby as much as anyone else. “I’m NEW YORK— At 26, singer Gabby La La is well past the always surprised that anyone comes to see me. Then I age of childhood — but just try telling her to grow up. A realize, ‘Oh, wait, my record came out and everything,’ tiny creature with a penchant for Hello Kitty and brightly and people are there singing along.” colored wigs, she speaks in a soft, little-girl voice. Onstage, Her songs are sing-songy ditties about her life. “It’s she performs on the same toy piano she first learned on just like everyday things,” she says, looking at her frosty when she was five years old. glass of lemonade. “I’ll probably write a song about today, Sipping lemonade in a booth of FAO Schwarz’s ice cream and I’ll make up, like, ‘Oh, I’m drinking lemonade and parlor in a big blue pigtailed wig, Gabby (her stage name there’s a bendy straw.’ ” came from a three-year-old neighbor, and she doesn’t use a Not surprisingly, Gabby has underage fans, too. “Lots of last name) explains her impulses. “Since I was little, I was people I talk to after the shows, they’re like, ‘Oh my kids love crazy like this,” she says. “I was always childlike, even your music and they’re always singing all the songs.’ So I growing up. So now my mom is always just like, ‘Super Gabby want to do daytime shows that kids can come to ’cause it’s too came out.’ I stopped trying to pretend to be grown-up.” late and too many crazy people at night in the nightclubs.” The daughter of a yoga instructor and a landscape In the meantime, Gabby’s been living on the road with architect, Gabby still lives in her hometown of Petaluma, her boyfriend while she tours with the band Particle and Calif. She bounced from instrument to instrument growing contends with their female groupies. “It’s tough being on up, finally getting a degree in sitar performance from the tour bus with a bunch of guys. I hide in my bunk and CalArts. Onstage, she’s a veritable one-woman band clad pretend that I’m not in there,” she laughs. “I turn the light in a leopard jumpsuit, playing the aforementioned toy off, and I’m like,” as she mimes curling into a fetal piano, guitar, accordion, ukulele and the theremin, an position. “At least bring really hot girls on the bus!” she instrument that is played by using electronic force fields. laments. “I should screen,” wagging a finger and giggling. “I’ll use my head, or whatever, to play it,” Gabby explains, “Nope. Nope. OK, you can come in. I like your shoes, you poking an elbow out. can come in. What size are you? OK. You have to take off Her uncategorizable sound charmed Primus frontman your shoes before you come on the bus.” Les Claypool at a chance meeting in a recording session — Elisa Lipsky-Karasz EGOYAN AND “WHERE THE TRUTH LIES” PHOTOS COURTESY OF THINKFILM; AND “WHERE THE TRUTH LIES” PHOTOS COURTESY EGOYAN TURNER LA DAVID JAMES DEVANEY/WIREIMAGE; LA BY BY CONNELLY