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2003 Dining: An Introduction Philadelphia, while famous for its neighborhoods, politics, and cheesesteaks, is not yet firmly established in the minds of PHILADELPHIA many Americans as a destination for fine dining. But that is changing. On March 13, 2002, the Times ran a full-page story on Philadelphia , calling them a “New Taste of Freedom” and extolling DINING GUIDE the excitement occurring at Philadelphia tables. Recently, magazines, ranging from and Saveur to Wine Spectator, glowingly reviewed both the neighborhood 2003 Annual Meetings establishments serving creative fresh , and exciting new ‘temples of design’ that Eastern Sociological Society feature , Cuban, and French fare. And Philadelphia chefs have begun to receive Loews Hotel, Philadelphia PA prestigious awards, such as those from the James Beard Foundation and Esquire.

The purpose of this guide is to offer you a brief but satisfying tour of the best dining Compiled by Philadelphia has to offer. It is quite possible Sara Rab ([email protected]) to experience a terrific in Philadelphia without emptying your wallet or traveling far from your hotel. You can safely assume that your culinary adventures to any and all of the restaurants included in these pages (including those in a lower price range!) will prove satiating and delicious. Please take some time out of your busy conference schedule to explore Philadelphia, and taste what we have to offer. Mangia! Explanations and Caveats Sts). Blue Mountain is a winery; their Cabernet Franc is a reasonable red to Organization: bring to many BYOBs. Many bars also offer This guide is organized according to ‘carryout’—allowing you to pickup a six-pack Philadelphia’s neighborhoods. We begin with of beer to go. the neighborhoods closest to the conference hotel and continue from there. Reservations: Several of the restaurants included in this Chains: guide are quite small (with 8-10 tables) and/or In an effort to introduce you to the best extremely popular. Reservations are often restaurants unique to Philadelphia, we have highly recommended and in certain cases, it is omitted chain restaurants from this guide. necessary to make them a month or more in Several chains are located near the conference advance. Such requirements are noted, hotel, including Maggiano’s Little , Corner wherever possible, throughout this guide. Bakery, and Hard Rock Café. Price: Philadelphia Liquor Laws: The prices included in this guide are based on Due to stringent state liquor laws, many the price of the entrees and do not include restaurants in Philadelphia do not have a appetizers, dessert or wine. liquor license. These restaurants, known as BYOBs (Bring Your Own Bottle), encourage $ Average entrée under $10 you to bring your own wine or beer to dinner, $$ Average entrée $10-20 and do not charge a corkage fee. Restaurants $$$ Average entrée over $20 that are BYOB are indicated as such in this guide. Please note: It is not uncommon for Philadelphia restaurants to accept cash only. You may purchase alcohol at the state-owned This policy is usually indicated at the front Wine & Spirits Shoppes located around the door and on the menu itself, and whenever city (the closest to the conference hotel is possible, it is also indicated in this guide. located on 12th St between Market and Filbert, open Monday-Saturday, 10 am – 9pm) or at the Blue Mountain Vineyards store located in the Reading Terminal Market (12th and Arch Other Dining Information Philadelphia Classics: Interested in consulting additional Philadelphia Deux Cheminees, Fountain , dining guides and information? The following Le-Bec Fin, Striped Bass websites are a good place to start: Only in Philadelphia: Citysearch: www.philadelphia.citysearch.com Geno’s, Jim’s Steaks, Koch’s Deli, Lorenzo’s Philadelphia Magazine: www.phillymag.com , Melrose Diner, Pat’s King of Steaks

Philadelphia Inquirer Restaurant Critic Reviews: www.philly.com/mld/philly/entertainment/dining/ THE GUIDE Zagat Guide: www.zagat.com Reading Terminal: A large farmer’s market located at 12th and Arch Sts (find 12th St off of Restaurant Packages1 Market St near the hotel and walk North). Similar to Pikes Market in Seattle, but with its For those in search of the best of the best, may own Philly flair, Reading Terminal is a great bet we suggest the following restaurant ‘packages’ for finding a quick takeout , a dine-in designed to maximize your dining pleasure and meal, or snacks to take back to your hotel simplify your decisions… room. Don’t miss the Pennsylvania Dutch apple turnovers and pretzels at the stands run by The Best of the Best – Dean Edition: Amish families. The market is open from 8 am- Lacroix at the Rittenhouse, Morimoto, Pasion, 6 pm Monday-Saturday. A few Market Striped Bass, Vetri highlights are below.

The Best of the Best – Professor Edition: Delilah’s at the Terminal. 215-574-0929. Bleu, Buddakan, Chloe, Django, Fork Southern style served up in a casual atmosphere. Don’t miss the fried chicken and The Best of the Best— mashed potatoes. This café is a small branch Graduate Student Edition: of the larger (and pricier) restaurant Bluezette Carman’s Country , Lee How Fook, in Old City. Closes at 5 pm. Cash only. $ Monk’s Cafe, Serendipity, Down Home Diner. 215-627-1955. Great traditional down-home diner fare. Try the 1 ala Langman & Fine’s stupendous Chicago ASA pancakes. Cash only. $ dining guide 12th Street Cantina. 215-625-0321. The Tex- Lakeside Chinese Deli. 207 N. 9th St Mex food at this little cantina is largely good. (between Race and Vine). (215) 925-3288. Steer clear of the nachos and head straight for Servers don’t wheel around carts at this small the , and specials like Mexican establishment, but they do serve some of the meatballs. Cash only. $ best in Philadelphia—and they offer it for both lunch and dinner. Be sure to try the Chinatown: Located in the area bounded by baby bok choy. BYOB. Cash only. $ 9th-12th Sts, and Market and Vine Sts, within easy walking distance of the conference hotel. Lee How Fook. 218 N. 11th St. (near Race). Philadelphia’s Chinatown is home to many This little restaurant offers numerous Hong good restaurants featuring Vietnamese, Kong, Cantonese and Szechuan dishes. Try Japanese, Burmese, Chinese, Thai, and the whole snapper, the salt-baked shrimp and . the hot and sour soup. Groups can be accommodated at circular tables with lazy- Joe’s Peking Duck House. 925 Race St. 215- susans. BYOB. $$ 922-3277. This simple restaurant lacks much atmosphere, but serves straightforward Penang. 117 N. 10th St (near Arch). The only delicious Peking duck, along with other ‘chain’ restaurant featured in this guide, Szechuan and Cantonese dishes. $$ Penang has an extensive menu of largely tasty Malaysian food. You can’t go wrong with a Joseph Poon. 1002 Arch St. 215-928-9333. bowl of and a lychee drink for Joe Poon is a charismatic who teaches about $10. Service is prompt, if a bit cursory. classes at the Reading Terminal Cash only. $ Market and once won an award for his proficiency in carving watermelon into creative Pho Xe Lua. 907 Race St. 215-627-8883. A shapes. He serves —which can favorite of Philadelphia foodies in search of mean anything from Cajun-Chinese to Italian- ‘authenticity’ and adventure, this restaurant Chinese. The vast majority of the time his serves both Thai and Vietnamese food. The efforts are successful and delicious. View the chef is very accommodating; this is a good menu at www.josephpoon.com. $$ choice for small banquet dinners—just call ahead. $

Rangoon. 112 N. Ninth St (near Arch). 215- Blue In Green. 7 N. 3rd St (near Market). 215- 829-8939. This family-owned restaurant 928-5880. This hip little American joint serves serves wonderful, spicy at great food til 3 pm everyday. Be sure very reasonable prices (the lunch specials are to try the many flavored pancakes, especially a steal). They offer many vegetarian dishes, the nut ones. No reservations, expect and serve great soothing soups. $$ a short line. Cash only. $

Serendipity. 1009 Arch St. 215-592-8288. A Buddakan. 325 Chestnut. 215-574-9440. At lengthy renovation produced a pleasant Buddakan, restaurateur European atmosphere at this Japanese café provides a dining experience you won’t soon known both for its fresh sushi and its bubble forget. Head to the Buddha to sample Pan- . The menu has recently been expanded to served family style in a include some Chinese offerings. Enjoy the glamorous atmosphere. One of the few terrific green ice cream for dessert. $$ restaurants in Philadelphia where you can enjoy a theatrical atmosphere along with Vietnam. 221 N. 11th St (near Race, East side exceptional food. Be sure to try the lobster. of street). 215-592-1163. You’ll enjoy great View the menu at www.buddakan.com. $$$ Vietnamese food at very reasonable prices at this very popular restaurant. Try the sautéed Chloe. 232 Arch St. 215-629-2337. This crawfish with black bean , the baby boy BYOB is run by two terrific chefs, a husband choy with , and the many rum drinks. and wife team. The food is New American, but Caution: the classic Vietnamese soup, pho, definitely draws on international flavors, leaves something to be desired here. $ including those from the Caribbean and Asia. The quiet, intimate setting is refreshing, and Old City: A neighborhood located east of the the pudding is heaven. No reservations. conference hotel, near the Delaware River. Cash only. $$ Walk down Market Street (or take a bus) until 2nd-4th Sts, and you’ll be there. This area is full Fork. 306 Market St. 215-625-9425. Go to of art galleries, shops, movie theaters, bars and Fork for American food, consistently prepared, great restaurants. It’s a very popular area, and reasonably priced. The wine list is fairly especially on weekends, so make reservations impressive as well. View the menu at or be prepared to wait a while for a table. www.forkrestaurant.com. $$.

La Locanda del Ghiottone. 130 N. 3rd St Deux Cheminees. 1221 Locust St. 215-790- (near Arch). 215-829-1465. The $30 prix fixe 0200. Old-fashioned, black-tie service, a chef meal (appetizer, first , second course, who is a well-known food historian, and dessert and coffee) at this small family-owned classic make this Philadelphia Italian restaurant is an absolute steal. The institution a great choice for special occasions. ‘unfortunate rabbit’ is especially delicious. $$$ BYOB. Cash only. $$. Effie’s. 1127 Pine St. 215-592-8333. A cozy Kabul. 106 Chestnut St. 215-922-3676. A family-owned Greek establishment serving all nice casual Afghani joint in the heart of the traditional favorites. Be sure to try the generally pricey Old City. The menu offers calamari and the homemade baklava. BYOB. plenty of vegetarian options. BYOB. $ $$.

Kisso. 205 N. 4th St (near Race). 215-922- El Azteca II. 714 Chestnut St. 215-733-0895. 1770. Sit at the sushi bar at this starkly This colorful Mexican eatery offers lots of simple and serene little restaurant and enjoy burritos, quesadillas and for your buck. inventive rolls and traditional favorites, all Bring your own tequila and the server will fresh and delicious. Japanese tavern dishes make margaritas for you. BYOB. $ are also served. BYOB. $$. Morimoto. 723 Chestnut St. 215- 413-9070. Center City East: This is the half of Center City You can’t help but be impressed by the that is located east of Broad Street. While this upscale creative offered by part of town is not nearly as busy as Center the Iron Chef, Masahru Morimoto (formerly of City West, it contains some very good New York’s Nobu). Come here with an restaurants that are located within a 10-15 expense account to sample deliciously fresh minute walk of the conference hotel. sushi, and novelty items like the ‘drunken shrimp,’ served while still wiggling. The Bleu Angel. 706 Chestnut St. 215-925-6889. omakase (chef’s choice) is a great way to Enjoy classic French bistro fare in this elegant sample the sushi. View the menu at establishment. Visit the Angel for quiet www.morimotorestaurant.com. $$$ business dinners or romantic interludes. View the menu at www.blueangel.citysearch.com. $$ Vetri. 1312 Spruce St. 215-732-3478. Las Cazuelas. 426 W. Girard Ave. 215-351- Reservations are required well in advance at 9144. One of very few authentic Mexican this highly acclaimed 35-seat restaurant. restaurants in Philadelphia offering several Marc Vetri works culinary magic, and his delicious moles and assorted Oaxacan regional Italian cooking is considered among specialities. BYOB. $ the best in the U.S. Saturday nights offer a tasting menu only. View the dinner menu, Standard Tap. 901 N. 2nd St. 215-238-0630. along with sample tasting menus, at A very casual pub offering sophisticated www.vetriristorante.com. $$$ , including a gorgeous pulled sandwich, and softshell crabs in season. There Northern Liberties: This up and coming area of are 13 local beers on tap, and the bar serves Philadelphia, north of Spring Garden Street, is food until 1 am. $ considered our Soho. Among artists’ lofts and hip bars are some terrific newcomers to the Center City West: This section of Center City restaurant scene. It is best to take a cab to this contains the famed Rittenhouse Square, and a area of the city—it should be about a 10-minute stretch of Walnut Street filled with upscale cab ride. shops and boutiques, along with many pricey restaurants. The general area is a 15-minute Aden. 614 N. 2nd St. 215-627-9844. You’ll walk from the conference hotel, or a short cab enjoy the open kitchen, friendly servers, and ride. homemade desserts at this family-owned Mediterranean restaurant. The octopus and Alma de Cuba. 1623 Walnut St. 215-988- the osso buco are especially good. BYOB. 1799. Douglas Rodriguez (of New York’s Cash only. $$ Patria) has bestowed his many talents on Philadelphia, and we thank him—and slurp El Viejo San Juan. 1176 N. 3rd St. 215-922- his Oysters Rodriguez happily. Enjoy 2376. Come to this new restaurant for ambitious Latin dishes, stylishly presented, at authentic Puerto Rican dishes, including a this very hip restaurant. This is a great choice homey caldo santo, and delicious ceviche de for post-conference drinks and snacks in a yuca y camarones. Good for large groups. $$ classy environment. View the menu at http://almadecubarestaurant.com. $$$

Bella, An American Bistro. 2000 Lombard Monk’s Café. 264 S. 16th St (near Spruce). St. 215-985-3222. Enjoy New American 215-545-7005. Enjoy an enormous variety of market-driven cuisine at this bright new Belgian ales, large pots of terrific mussels and bistro. Try the braised short ribs, and be sure pommes frites at this dark bar/restaurant. Be to sample the side dishes and the prepared to wait for a table, and endure some house cocktails. Desserts, thus far, are better smoky air. Food is served until 1 am. $$ skipped. Cash and AMEX only. $$ Pasion. 211 S. 15th St (near Walnut). 215- Fountain Restaurant. 1 Logan Square (at the 875-9895. Chef Guillermo Pernot (once named Four Seasons Hotel). 215-963-1500. This Esquire Best New Chef of the Year) serves the Philadelphia establishment is posh, pricey, finest ceviche, Argentinian , and sinful and pleasurable. The five-course prix fixe New desserts. Be sure to sample the sangria. View American brunch is a special treat. $$$ the menu at www.pasionrestaurant.com. $$$

Lacriox at the Rittenhouse. 210 W. Porcini. 2048 Sansom St. 215-751-1175. The Rittenhouse Square (at the ). tables are so close together that the servers 215-790-2533. Chef Jean-Marie Lacriox has will likely have to move several other diners in received a James Beard award for his order to seat you. But, you’ll enjoy the luxurious French cooking. He recently arrived homemade and bruschetta so much at at the Rittenhouse, and the restaurant is this Italian joint, you won’t hardly mind. receiving high marks. $$$ BYOB. $$

Le Bec-Fin. 1523 Walnut St. 215-567-1000. Striped Bass. 1500 Walnut. 215-732-4444. This classic French restaurant is considered Fabulously fresh seafood is served in an by many to be among the best in the U.S. It elegant old bank at this Philly favorite. Try the recently received 5 stars from the Mobil Travel wild striped bass with artichokes, leeks and Guide, and is immortalized in numerous potatoes. The wine list is exhaustive and novels, including Jonathan Franzen’s The impressive. At $26 for three courses, brunch Corrections. The multi-tiered dessert cart is a or lunch at the Bass—is a great choice. View real indulgence. The prix fixe menu ($40 at the menu at www.mealticket.org/sb.asp. $$$ lunch, $120 at dinner) can be viewed at www.lebecfin.com. Reservations required. $$$

South Street/ Society Hill/ Queen’s Village: Dmitris. 795 S. 3rd St. 215-625-0556. The The infamous South Street, and the quaint proprietor of this tiny Greek establishment neighborhoods immediately to its north and jokes that when he goes to heaven he’ll be south, have recently become home to several eaten by octopi, given the large amount of non- restaurants that merit a note or grilled octopus he serves each night at this two. It will take you 20-30 minutes to walk enormously popular eatery. Enjoy freshly here-- a cab may be more desirable. grilled fish, spicy hummus, and creamy pudding. No reservations, but you can wait Beau Monde. 624 S. 6th St (at Bainbridge). across the street at the New Wave Café, and 215-592-0656. A French creperie complete the very competent hostess will fetch you with a working fireplace, this is a sweet little when your table is ready. BYOB. Cash only. setting for brunch or dinner. Create your own $$ sweet or savory crepes with dozens of fillings, and if you get lost, allow the able servers to Lorenzo and Son Pizza Inc. 305 South St. guide you in your decision. 215-627-4110. Approach the counter, ask for www.creperiebeaumonde.com. $$ a slice, pay, and walk away with a seriously huge, delicious piece of heaven. Don’t bother Django. 526 S. 4th St (between South and asking for toppings, whole pies, or boxes. And Lombard). 215-922-7151. This tiny BYOB leave your mark—write your name and right off South Street merited a glowing review number on the back wall. Cash only. $ in the New York Times. The service is warm, the food is inventive, and the bread (baked in Jim’s Steaks. 400 South St. 215-928-1911. a flowerpot) is to die for. The menu changes Considered by many to be the best place to get monthly, but you cannot go wrong when a cheesesteak on South Street. The line can ordering; everything is fresh and delicious. Be wrap around the building—make a friend sure to try the cheese plate, which is always stand online, and go shop! Cash only. $ presented by Aimee, the owner. Reservations are required (call one month in advance). $$ West Philadelphia/University City: For those of you who will venture across the Schuykill River to Penn’s campus during your stay in Philadelphia, here are a few dining suggestions. You can take the trolley, bus, or cab to Penn—or walk if it pleases you. Koch’s Deli. 4309 Locust St. 215-222-8662. White Dog Café. 3420 Sansom St. 215-386- Bobby Koch is a Philadelphia treasure. You’ll 9224. Owner Judy Wicks followed in the actually enjoy your 45-minute wait on line to tradition of Alice Waters and Chez Panisse receive a gigantic hoagie filled with anything when creating this socially conscious, farmer- and everything you can imagine, as Bobby friendly restaurant serving creative American regales you with politically-incorrect jokes and cuisine. This is one of the best places in the passes around slices of meat and cheese to city to go for innovative vegetarian and vegan snack on. Cash only. $ dishes. Students enjoy the less expensive options offered on the bar menu. View the La Terrasse. 3432 Sansom St. 215-386-5000. menu at www.whitedogcafe.com. $-$$ This large lovely restaurant features both an elegant dining area and a contemporary bar Zocalo. 3600 Lancaster Avenue. 215-895- that serves the same French bistro fare at 0139. Homemade tortillas, made-to-order reduced prices. The filet mignon sandwich guacamole, nearly perfect margaritas, and with bleu cheese is a particular treat. The ‘shrimp from hell’ are just a few of the many daily happy hour features a good house reasons to trek over to this friendly Mexican chardonnay and merlot for $3.50 per glass. joint. $$ View the menu at www.laterrasse.com. $-$$ South Philadelphia: This neighborhood is best Rx. 4443 Spruce St. 215-222-9590. A known for its numerous (although largely welcome addition to the West Philadelphia unmemorable) little Italian restaurants, but neighborhood, this former pharmacy turned recently Vietnamese and Mexican immigrants American bistro serves fresh, seasonal cuisine have moved in and greatly strengthened the at very reasonable prices. At brunch enjoy the diversity of the cuisine available. But this is apple French toast or hangar steak with still where you should head for in search of a creamed spinach; at dinner try the seafood real Philly cheesesteak. Taking a cab is the specials, including baked Blue Point oysters easiest way to visit these establishments. when available. Many of the desserts are homemade and are topped with Chilly Philly ice cream! BYOB. $$

Carman's Country Kitchen. 1301 S. 11th St Pat’s King of Steaks. 1235 Passyunk Ave (near Wharton). 215-339-9613. At this sunny (near 9th). 215-468-1546. See Geno’s. You hole-in-the-wall Carman serves wonderful decide which you prefer. Open 24 hours. Cash brunches with a smile. You’re given a choice only. $ of four specials, which change weekly (pancakes, French toast, omelet, lunch dish). Taqueria La Veracruzana. 908 Washington On a recent day we enjoyed acorn squash Avenue. 215-465-1440. Head to this little pancakes in a banana cream sauce, French Mexican joint for three hearty tacos for $5.00. toast with wine-soaked apples and grapes, an Skip the horrendous burritos and focus on the omelet with Maine lobster and haricot verts, tacos. Cash only. No liquor license, no booze and sautéed chicken livers. The service is allowed. $ spectacular. Open Thursday-Sunday from 8am-2pm. Cash only, no reservations, but you can call ahead and ask that they save you a table. $-$$

Geno’s. 1218 S. 9th St (near Passyunk). 215- 389-0659. Along with Pat’s, a Philadelphia cheesesteak mecca. Let them know if you want Cheez Whiz, American or provolone, griddle-fried or not, and your decisions are done. Open 24 hours. Cash only. $

Melrose. 1501 Snyder Ave. 215-467-6644. As the song goes, “Everyone's who knows, goes to Melrose.” Cheap, yummy homemade pies and standard diner food. A South Philly tradition. Warning: You may be asked to share a booth if you’re a party of two, that’s tradition at the Melrose. Open 24 hours. $