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When Fantasy Meets Reality: How the Runway and Red Carpet Intersect The New Global Stars Team Beauty Catches Olympic Fever

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Abbie Cornish’s Laid-Back SPIRITApproach to Stardom A Fairchild Publication

When Fantasy Meets Reality: How the Runway and Red Carpet Intersect The New Global Stars Team Beauty Catches Olympic Fever

FREE

Abbie Cornish’s Laid-Back SPIRITApproach to Stardom WWDBEAUTYBIZ CONTENTS

29 42 48 This Month: Abbie Cornish and a coterie of global stars, standout products from retailers worldwide and the best beauty trends from the runway and red carpet.

12 People, Places & 24 World Wide Watch: 42 Meet the Locals Behind the scenes with Hollywood’s premier the United Kingdom As beauty companies increase their international product tracker, germ-free application tips from Beauty-obsessed Brits are driving product sales scope, they’re looking to homegrown stars to makeup guru Mally Roncal and team beauty across the pond, eager to scoop up the latest help establish their credibility. Here, a report on goes to the Olympics. trends and hot items the instant they hit the celebrity marketing in a global marketplace. market. But with recession looming, will it last? 16 What’s In Store 45 National Pride Tree-based summer scents, sunny citrus picks 29 Opposites Attract Household names in their home countries, these and the melding of bronze and gold for sizzling While the runway and the red carpet share eight international stars are all gorgeous, famous warm weather makeup. many of the same inspirations and ideas, the — and still unsigned to a beauty contract. execution of each is as different as night and day. 22 Beauty Chez You 48 Star Turn Leaving your house for a is so C-List. 36 Ray of Light From Tokyo to São Paulo, the hippest shopkeepers These days every starlet worth her spray tan has Australian golden girl Abbie Cornish on the tao around the globe divulge their picks for the season’s a grooming posse who makes house calls. of Hollywood and her impending Stateside fame. best beauty bets. 40 In Retreat 50 Dancing Queen For a relaxing and rejuvenating escape, Tinseltown’s Italian ballerina and aspiring actress Eleonora brightest head south of the border to the secluded Abbagnato shares her advice on dancing through spas of the Mayan Riviera. life in style.

ON THE COVER WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most Abbie Cornish photographed ©2008 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 195, recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all by Kayt Jones. Hair by Jamal NO. 78, April 11, 2008, WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, Hammadi for Hamadi Beauty and holidays, with one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. at Magnet LA; makeup by Kara March, April, May, June, August and November, and three additional issues in February and Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit Yoshimoto Bua for Chanel at September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies chard

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4 WWD Beauty Biz MASTHEAD

A Fairchild Publication

Pete Born Executive Editor, Beauty Advertising Production Jenny B. Fine Editor Christine Guilfoyle Publisher Gena Kelly Executive Director, tracey rivera-price associate publisher Manufacturing and Distribution Jennifer Weil European Editor Debra Goldberg Associate Publisher, Beauty Chris Wengiel Group Production Director Andrea Nagel Mass Market Beauty Editor Randi Segal Mass Beauty Director John Ricotta Production Director Julie Naughton Senior Prestige Market Janine marks account Director Jill Breiner Associate Production Manager Beauty Editor Ron Troxell Senior Account Manager, Ahmed Pruitt Production Coordinator Molly Prior Beauty financial Editor West Coast Matthew W. Evans Beauty News Editor Circulation karen martin midwest director Michelle Edgar Associate Beauty odile eda-pierre account manager, Paris AP duffy Circulation marketing Director Features Editor Michele Sutton Executive Beauty Assistant Richard Franz Circulation/Sales Director Faye Brookman Contributing Editor Bill Andrulevich General Manager, John Cross Fulfillment Director Megan McIntyre Assistant Editor Fairchild Fashion Group James Rossi Marketing Director jillian wu Editorial Intern Richard Cherichella Business Director, Susan Kline Fulfillment Manager Deborah Boylan Copy Editor Fairchild Fashion Group Daniel Lagani President, Fairchild Fashion Group Contributors karen chiu business manager, Samantha Conti, Brid Costello and Nina fairchild fashion group Jones (London), Stephanie Epiro (Milan), Miles Janet Janoff General Manager, WWD Socha (Paris), Marcy Medina and rachel brown Colleen Compston Executive assistant to (Los Angeles), Katherine Bowers (Boston), the president Melissa Drier (Berlin), Lee (Atlanta), Marketing/Promotion Holly Haber and Rusty Williamson (Dallas), Jodi Marchisotta Associate Publisher, Marketing Koji Hirano (Tokyo) Danielle McMurray Creative Services Director Art Brooke Welsch Senior Marketing and Pamela Olecki Art Director Events Manager Danilo Matz associate art director Jamie Hollander Senior Marketing Manager Anita Bethel Photo and Imaging Director Kathleen Callahan Classified Marketing Manager Carrie Provenzano Associate Photo Editor Benjamin Gelinas Design Director Mark Ramel Design Manager Photographers diane huntley copy director Pasha Antonov, John Aquino, Talaya Centeno, cara clinton promotions editor George Chinsee, Steve Eichner, Kyle Ericksen, Julie Gu marketing coordinator Thomas Iannaccone, Robert Mitra Stephanie Brown Promotions Assistant

8 WWD Beauty Biz EDITOR’S LETTER

In the golden age of Hollywood celebrity, beauty as a breeding ground for upcoming trends. This companies were content to hitch themselves to the year, the Oscars neatly coincided with the fall 2008 biggest star around and ride their gilded coattails ready-to-wear shows in Paris. While there were California all the way to the cash register. But as every A-, overarching similarities in the hair and makeup B- and C-lister signed up to front a fragrance, a looks, the execution was thrillingly different. Take skin cream or the newest mascara, the magical X red lips for example, which, combined with an Dreaming factor often seemed to be missing. While sales of otherwise bare face, was a safe, solid choice on the celebrity products have stabilized, the influence red carpet this year. On the runway, however, lips of Hollywood on the national beauty psyche were bright cherry red and supershiny—and were hasn’t. Witness the all-encompassing coverage of paired with an equally strong eye. Toned down, the Oscars, with every single aspect of an actress’ it’s a fresh look for any aspiring starlet. Discover appearance analyzed and deconstructed, right more influential beauty trends from each side of down to her diamanté hair clip. the divide in “Opposites Attract” on page 29. While the hoi polloi look to Hollywood for Most notable about this year’s Oscars (other beauty inspiration, Hollywood looks to the runway than its sheer dreariness), was the fact that not one of the winners for best or supporting actor or actress was American. Two Brits, a French woman and a Spaniard took home the awards. Hollywood has gone global. This issue’s cover girl Abbie Cornish epitomizes the new breed of international actress in Tinseltown. Sure, she’s beautiful, with quintessential golden girl looks. But even more striking is her devotion to her craft and evasion of the glitzy trappings of stardom. Part of a coterie that includes rising stars like Brit , Brazil’s Alice Braga and France’s Marion Cotillard, Cornish is conquering Hollywood on her own terms. Discover how in “Ray of Light” on page 36.

While sales of celebrity products have stabilized, the influence of hollywood on the national beauty psyche hasn’t.

Of course, Hollywood isn’t the only birthplace of stardom. Vidya Balan, Delta Goodrem, Terri Kwan, these are all women on the verge of superstardom in their own countries (India, and , respectively) and who have as much clout with consumers as a global icon like . As reporter Molly Prior discovered, more and more beauty brands are tapping into regional celebrities to promote their wares in individual markets around the world. Olay, LVMH and others share their strategy in “Meet the Locals” on page 42. Then turn to “National Pride” for eight up-and-comers from around the world—all gorgeous and all (as of press time) without beauty contracts. With the worldwide mania for celebrity showing no signs of abating, though, that’s not likely to be the case for long. —Jenny B. Fine Bettmann/CORBIS

10 WWD Beauty Biz People, Places & Lipsticks bis r s/Co r est/Reute haun B gymnast photo by S

OnBeauty Y companieso hopeur to With Mark almost four months to go until the 2008 shot, in front of his team in similar action mode. In score a perfect 10 when it Olympics in Beijing, team beauty has a good start in another campaign, three female divers from China’s comes to cross-promotional the branding games. Avon, Coty and L’Oréal, among national team, dubbed the “Dream Team of China” Olympics marketing. others, are betting on this summer’s competition to tout as part of a two-year sponsorship grow their businesses in China’s booming market. deal signed last year. Both the badminton and “The Olympics will draw attention to China as a diving squads are among China’s strong gold medal center of the world,” says Steve Mormoris, senior contenders. Industry sources estimate beauty brands vice president of global marketing for Coty Beauty. are investing around $10 million in media campaigns In May, Coty’s London brand will launch in and $1.5 million to $2.5 million annually in team limited distribution in China, while under its license sponsorship. While the world’s biggest sporting event for Adidas, Coty has developed a line of fragrances may not be an obvious partner for beauty, brands are (two for women, three for men) emblazoned with keen to prove their willingness to invest in China. 2008 in Olympics-style graphics, designed to appeal “The Olympic games are of huge national pride for to Chinese consumers. Meanwhile, L’Oréal Paris Chinese people,” says Debby , managing is the sponsor of the Chinese men’s and director of Ogilvy Public Relations in Shanghai. “A women’s badminton teams in an exclusive two- lot of foreign brands will use the Olympics to be seen year deal. Ads breaking in May proclaim “Sports as a brand that is committed to China and supportive and Beauty. Because you’re worth it,” and show the to Chinese consumers, and that could help them with world’s number-one men’s player Lin Dan taking a governmental relations as well.” —Ellen Groves

12 WWD Beauty Biz People, Places & Lipsticks BIS R O SYGMA

s/C Dare among his BIS r R The Germinator O beauty wares. Hollywood ula by C c Makeup artist Mally Roncal is Use Q-Tips whenever pos- a Hot Spot m suit by Reute

absolutely fanatical about germ sible. In a perfect world, if we r manufacturer. Ages-old appliance. No prevention. After her twin daughters were all kajillionaires, we could use problem. Dare is the wheeler and dealer boye; dr el; ge r were born last December, staying our brush once and d of backstage Hollywood beauty. After 14 en bacteria-free went from a routine to throw it away, but we can’t. Q-Tips get r years at Frends Beauty Supply, a familiar an obsession; Roncal even added more the makeup on and off and you can haunt for the town’s film and television makeup brushes to her eponymous just ditch them. makeup artists and hairstylists, he’s e photo by tyle r

brand in a bid to keep women from a opened up his own shop, Nigel’s Beauty using their fingers. “The worst thing Don’t blow on your brushes! A d Emporium, on a decidedly unglamorous ever is when I’m sitting in a public lot of women get makeup on habaglian & kate D stretch in North Hollywood. “It’s for

place,” says Roncal, “and I see a their brush and then blow on it. I just ian S the freeway access,” Dare explains. If

Makeup guru woman open a compact and, with see the spit from their mouth on it. To y Br he doesn’t have an item, he’s happy to Mally Roncal, her germy, dirty fingers, touch up her get rid of excess powder, tap on the track it down, be it an Elizabeth Arden

above, and some lips and cheeks.” With that thought brush instead. ations B r “Nigel, this is Sylvester Stallone,” product for Sienna Miller’s makeup of her newest in mind, we asked Roncal to share burbles Nigel Dare, doing the best artist or La Roche-Posay Anthelios llust brushes, left. her top five tips for clean cosmetics. Anything you use in your eye I Stallone imitation a 40-year-old sunscreen for John Travolta’s makeup —Megan McIntyre area needs to be cleaned with immigrant from Guyana can muster as team. Fortunately, most needs can be met each use. Sharpen your eye pencil he recounts a story about tracking down at the 5,000-square-foot Emporium. Wash your hands with right before or after you use it to take a replacement piece for the actor’s high- Among the offerings: Reel Blood’s fake antibacterial wash. For my off what you just used on your eye. frequency hair stimulation unit. Defunct blood in aged and original, Ben Nye’s clients I use an antibac that smells like tooth color (in nicotine and black) lavender called Jao Hand Refresher. and Versea’s Coolyre Bleu eyedrops to I put it on my hands and rub them eliminate redness for those with a bad together, then let it dry and put it over case of the day after. Chortles Dare, their faces. Not only do you kill germs, “Rock stars buy that by the dozen.” but you can enjoy a moment of peace. —Rachel brown

There’s nothing worse then looking in someone’s makeup bag and seeing dirty, funky, crusty BIS R brushes. Either use a brush cleans- White Hot O er or wash your brushes in a gentle Although the word “silence” is more usually associated and then condition them.

with a temple or a meditation retreat than a bustling . Rotkin/C retail store, Argentinian architects Afra and Alejandro les E Stöberl had that word in mind when they designed r Clean-Up VZ’s latest flagship in BuenosA ires. VZ, which has 40 stores in Argentina and franchises in Chile, Panama and Guatemala, is known for combining minimalism with high design in its lifestyle products. True to form, Crew

the architects used only one color—white—plus lots of subway photo by ChaThis Earth Day, Benefit plans on covering up more we’re taking that idea a step further and applying light and displays made of translucent plastic. “The than just under-eye circles. In celebration of the it to the parks.” In Los Angeles the team will be at walls were left as bare as possible so the products launch of its new Erase Paste , the brand Jesse Owens Community Regional Park, in New can be in constant interaction with customers,” say is taking its fix-it M.O. to the streets. On April 22, York at Skateboard Park and in San Francisco at the Stöberls. “We didn’t need to use big graphic 15 Benefit employees in L.A., New York and San McClaren Park. In each, they’ll pick up trash, gar- displays as the storefront is glazed, so passers-by can Francisco will don brightly colored jumpsuits and den, clean and paint. “Most of us don’t have a lot of see what’s happening inside and also be part of the head to local parks to paint over graffiti and beau- extra time to give,” says co-founder Jane Ford, “but Leg scene. Light is nearly the only attention-catcher, the tify the overall area. “Benefit is known for our fake- by taking one day out of your life to do something rest is attained by the products themselves and the its and fix-its, problem-solving products that good and positive that is bigger than you or me feels packaging.” Prices start at $2 for a makeup sponge deliver immediate results,” says incredibly satisfying and, well, beautiful.” Work and rise to $15 for home fragrance. — Sabrina Mauas co-founder Jean Ford. “Now —M.M. If high heels aren’t enough to give one’s legs a VZ’s new flagship, and lift, a spritz of Stiletto behind the knees should do some recent beauty the trick. not that it’s verboten to spray the fruity launches, above. floral concoction elsewhere, but what German nail specialist Alessandro International claims is the “first leg and foot perfume” is said to unfold at its best on one’s gams. priced at about $63, stiletto is flanked by 13 other footnotes, including a glitter powder puff for sparkling limbs, tattoos, scrubs, baths and . the scent will hit stores in germany in may, with a rollout to alessandro’s 40 international markets in june. —Melissa Drier

14 WWD Beauty Biz What’s In Store

Summer’s bronze 01 Bourjois Shimmering Shine hues get sprinkled Liquid with gold for a in Molecule D’Or glamorous This portable, spillproof liquid shadow is 55 per- molten look. cent water-based and has By Jillian Wu METAL a built-in slant applicator Photographed by to ensure a precise metal- George Chinsee lic sheen. ($16; , Ulta)

02 Lancome Star Bronzer Sun WORKS Cherub Compact Unlike Icarus and his wax wings, the impish cherub on this megabronzer won’t let you down thanks to three shimmery shades that create a tan worthy of a sun worshipper. ($50; Lancôme counters, lancome-usa.com)

03 Eye Colour Pot in Solid Gold With both a sheer creamy gel and a mineral shadow dust, this two-part eye compact will bring out your modern-day Midas. ($32; Bloomingdale’s, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Saks, Sephora, lauramercier.com)

04 Fruits & Passion Monoi Gold Body Shimmer Tahitian monoi and a trove of natural ingredients make this portable body shimmer a top choice for an au naturel glow. ($17; Fruits & Passion boutiques, fruits-passion.com)

05 Long Last Glosswear SPF 15 in Goldspun Bask in the sun’s glow with this stay-put moistur- izing gloss that offers an SPF 15 shield all day long. ($14; Clinique counters)

06 Givenchy Glitter to Go This floral-scented glitter gel is packaged in handy single-dose packets (the perfect size for an evening bag), which means extreme shine at any time. ($35; Sephora)

07 Dior Bronze Sun Couture Palette This runway-ready palette conceals a karat-packed bronzing duo and opulently sheer , ideal for perfecting this summer’s beauty gold rush. ($55; Dior counters) atz o m l i n a y d b d e l ty s

16 WWD Beauty Biz What’s In Store

01 Acqua di Parma Forget flowers. The Blu Mediterraneo newest fragrances Mirto di Panarea are woody, Revered by the Greeks as the favorite of Aphrodite earthy and of and a symbol of love and the forest born. beauty, the myrtle shrub and its berries form the By Megan McIntyre Trunk core of this refreshing Photographed by ($98; Neiman Marcus, Thomas Iannaccone scent. Nordstrom, Saks)

02 Archipelago Show Botanicals Home Collection Lindenwood Room Diffuser Cypress forms the back- bone of this essential oil room diffuser, which also features cloves, juniper berry, lemon and mandarin for an energizing kick to put you in a spring cleaning frame of mind. ($61; Beautyexclusive.com)

03 Red Flower Guaiac Organic Perfume Resin from the South American guaiac tree mingles with tobacco, leather and citrus in this USDA-certified organic fragrance. The result: a slightly spicy and woodsy aroma reminiscent of an afternoon forest hike. ($186; Barneys New York, redflower.com)

04 Chanel Les Exclusifs de Chanel Sycomore Inspired by the stately sycamore tree, this Jacques Polges-created scent centers around earthy vetiver, enhanced by the spicy, woody notes of cypress, juniper and pink pepper. ($190; Bergdorf Goodman, Chanel boutiques, select Saks)

05 Aqua Allegoria Laurier- Reglisse Much like the victor’s crown woven from them, the laurel leaves in this green scent are a winning note; undertones of licorice give the fragrance a subtle hint of gourmand deliciousness. ($52; Sephora) atz o m l i n a y d b d e l ty s

18 WWD Beauty Biz What’s In Store

Fresh from the grove, 01 Dove Go Fresh Body Mist in citrus fruits Energizing tart up an array This invigorating body of products. mist features glycerin to moisturize and an uplifting By Megan McIntyre aroma of lemongrass Photographed by and grapefruit. ($3.79; Thomas Iannaccone The Big mass retailers)

02 Hair Rules Aloe Grapefruit Clarify- ing Shampoo Squeeze Aloe moisturizes, grapefruit and lemongrass clarify in this textured hair shampoo from celebrity stylist Anthony Dickey, the man behind the manes of Minnie Driver and Sarah Jessica Parker. ($28.50; Hairrules.com)

03 C.O. Bigelow Apothecaries Village Perfumer Grapefruit Body This fresh-squeezed body wash has just the right amount of zing to get even the drowsiest revved up in the morning, no caffeine required. ($12; select Bath & Body Works, C.O. Bigelow Apothecaries)

04 Moschino Cheap and Chic Hippy Fizz The opening lemon note in this cheerful fragrance gives it a slight pucker, while Parma violets, rasp- berry leaves and magnolia add a touch of feminine softness. ($55; select Macy’s, Nordstrom & Sephora)

05 Fix’ Make-up Thanks to a 3-D film-form- ing polymer, this grapefruit, silica and vitamin C mist keeps makeup in place, shielding it from meltdowns and weather-related beauty catastrophes. ($25; Clarins counters) atz o m l i n a y d b d e l ty s

20 WWD Beauty Biz PERSONAL ASSISTANCE oye

The Nail Nurse yler B Kimmie Kyees, Fred Segal Beauty Contact: 310.451.3808 son; Chan by T m The fingers of the fabulous aren’t

different from anyone else’s—except Willia dd Beauty for the amount of money they handle— o

and no one knows that better than s by T Kyees. “I work with everyone from m celebrities to wealthy housewives,” Willia When clients come calling with she says. “There’s a broad demand d Chez You for [at-home] services because of an urgent need to primp for a traffic, privacy and [because] people gala, red-carpet event are so busy.” Kyees, who handles up

or attine, Kyees an to five clients a day, says her most v last-minute photo shoot, these popular service is a $200 manicure and combo, which takes 90 ella; Via beauty experts already have their d

minutes. She typically carries about ar bags packed and ready to go. 100 bottles of , with Essie, By Rachel Brown OPI and China Glaze favorites. Kyees says celebs love brights (she recently gave Rihanna vibrant yellow nails), so The Makeup and Hair Practitioner The Color Specialist she always totes “an Eighties party Byron Williams, Byron Williams Nelson Chan, bag” with “teals, salmons, yellows, Contact: 310.276.4470 Nelson J Salon colors that are bizarre and fun.” Contact: 310.274.1553 Photos of Martinez by Donato S In the upper echelons of Beverly Hills’ society, Williams is the go-to The Face Therapist come-to-you beauty guru. One lady Kelly Viavattine, has paid him to prep her six mornings Kate Somerville a week for the last decade. Williams, Skin Health Experts who also counts Rachel Zoe and Contact: 323.655.7546 Lindsay Lohan as fans, charges a minimum of $300 for hair and $300 for makeup; prices can run to $4,000. Of his clients, Williams says, “They like the comfort and luxury of someone coming to their house. You feel like a queen.” For the true royal treatment, Williams will tag along on trips—he recently primped a businesswoman for meetings she had in New York. So how did he get to the opposite coast? Private jet, of course. About every six months, Chan is whisked away to a far-flung location to tint the hair of some famous so- Paris Hilton avoids the paparazzi by The Mane Authority and-so. Sarah Michelle Gellar, a inviting Viavattine into her home for Daniel MartineZ, Warren-Tricomi Salon regular for years, flew him to a film . Starlets are nothing novel Contact: 323.651.4545 set in Canada to change her golden to Viavattine: She honed her skills locks to chocolate brown. “It took at Hollywood’s celeb fave Kate Martinez’s itinerary during a recent week four hours to do her hair, but, in Somerville. Somerville’s signature included a palatial Malibu estate, a suite total, it took four days,” he says. The Dermal Quench antiaging facial, in the Four Seasons Beverly Hills and a customary, closer-to-home visit takes which delivers oxygen, vitamins and backstage Hollywood dressing room. three to six hours. Chan estimates hyaluronic serum, costs $250 in-spa, “Our market is a celebrity market,” he he usually does one or two a week, but spikes to $1,000 when Viavattine says, coyly keeping his clients’ screen and typically he offers basic coloring hits the road. Hollywood’s baby credits under wraps. “It’s a client who and a blowout. For each road trip, he boom has her in the driver’s seat is always at events.” At $250 an hour lugs eight to 10 different hues and more often than not. New moms plus service fees, his price is at least a smattering of styling products, (Viavattine is, well, mum on names) double that at Warren-Tricomi’s West sprays and brushes. Chan’s visiting request her weekly. “This is a regular Hollywood outpost. Martinez books at rate, which starts at $500 and can thing for them, having people come least three house calls a week between rise to $1,500, is about three times in and out for services.” stints at the salon, so prebooking is a that at his Beverly Hills salon. must. A Malibu couple pencils him in every six weeks for quick snips. Lucky for Martinez, the ocean vista is his favorite—and he’s seen all the views the city has to offer. World Wide Watch THE UNITED KINGDOM

a very buoyant market,” says Ian Bell, senior analyst at Euromonitor, adding saturation and a grim economic forecast due to the impact of the credit crunch may slow the pace of growth somewhat over the medium term. “When we look back we’ll realize how good it was,” says Bell. A study by Ipsos Mori found that 54 percent of people surveyed this February believe the general economic condition of the country will get worse over the next 12 months. That pessimism, however, needn’t spell disaster for beauty brands, say executives. “Predictions for the economic climate will be challenging U.K. health-and-beauty market by retail channel, 2007 of course,” says Angela Rowley, (Source: Verdict Research) general manager of Estée Lauder U.K. Grocers: 46 percent Department Stores: 8 percent “But we see beauty impacted less than capital goods, such as electronics and Health and Beauty Other: 4 percent furniture. Makeup—and lipsticks in

Specialists: 40 percent Home Shopping: 3 percent particular—always do well in recession as an inexpensive way of achieving a feel-good factor.” EUROPE British women certainly like to By Brid Costello feel good about their appearance and, in particular, how young they look for When Victoria Beckham’s their age. Skin care is a driving force, latest haircut is front- hitting $3.28 billion in 2007, a 7.3 page news and a $34 anti- percent increase year-on-year and a 63 wrinkle cream causes stampedes on the percent increase over 2001, according High Street, you know you’ve landed to Euromonitor. Facial care accounted The United in a country obsessed with beauty. for $2.56 billion in 2007 and is set The world’s fourth-largest beauty to grow to $3.29 billion by 2012. market, the United Kingdom’s cosmetics Helping drive growth is an aging and toiletries retail sales totaled about population. The resident population of $16.33 billion in 2007, according to Yeah baby! Time-pressed and beauty- the U.K. was 60,587,000 in mid-2006, Kingdom Euromonitor International. That figure indulge in according to the Office for National obsessed, Brits love to is expected to rise by over 10 percent Statistics. In 2006, one in six people all things new by 2012 to reach $18.17 billion. “It’s when it comes to were aged 65 or over, while the average beauty products and services. age was 39. “[Customers] will go to any depths to find the elixir of youth,” says Daniela Rinaldi, head of perfumery and concessions at Harvey Nichols. “Compared to the rest of Europe, people in the U.K. have longer working hours and among the highest disposable incomes,” says Paul Deacon, U.K. marketing manager of . “There are a lot of cash-rich and time- CORBIS ann/

poor people so there’s a demand there m ett

for a quick fix.” B While a 2007 study by Mintel International found that almost one in three adults believe they need to pay more for products that really work, orbis;beatles by U.K. consumers don’t always rely on C price tags to indicate results. Last year, euters/

Boots the Chemists’ private label No. R

7 Protect & Perfect serum became an id/ overnight phenomenon after it was m featured on a BBC documentary. At one point, the retailer had a list of eterMacdiar

100,000 customers waiting to get their P hands on the product, which costs about $34 per 30-ml. bottle. More recently, Tri-Aktiline, a $50.50 wrinkle filler by

Good Skin Labs, a brand from Lauder’s phonebooth by World Wide Watch THE UNITED KINGDOM

THE FAME GAME

Critiquing celebrity style—or lack thereof—is a national pastime in the U.K., thanks to the country’s infamous tabloids and weekly magazines. If Kate Moss wears a star-spangled shirt or purple mascara at the weekend, it’s fairly certain such items will be hot property by Monday, for example. For that reason celebrity endorsements, and celebrity scents in particular, are big business here. At The Perfume Shop, which has over 150 doors in the U.K., sales of such products represent 15 to 20 percent of the chain’s total sales. And it’s not just Jennifer Lopez, Christina Aguilera, Moss and their ilk who are getting in on the act. Local luminaries, including WAGs BeautyBank division, has become a price In parallel, results-oriented items, (or soccer players’ Wives And Girlfriends such as must-have. “Price is not necessarily a is not cosmeceuticals and potent doctor- Coleen McLoughlin) and Page-Three girls (models driver if the consumer believes in the necessar- backed brands are also generating who appear topless in tabloid newspapers like Katie efficacy of the product,” says Rinaldi. excitement. Rinaldi recalls a waiting Price, aka Jordan) have all introduced successful “They’re picking up on trends before ily a driv- list for Athena 7 Minute Lift, an anti- products. They’ve also been responsible for other they even hit the market.” er if the aging cream promising a facelift in a beauty fads. WAGs, whose soccer player partners Indeed, shrewd shopping has consumer jar, that started even before it arrived earn millions of pounds annually, championed an become a hallmark of trend-conscious believes at Harvey Nichols in December 2007, uber-groomed trend, including year-round fake Brits. “The U.K. beauty consumer has for instance. tans, French (on fingers and toes), hair become more aware of ingredients in the ef- Meanwhile, makeup with a extensions and preternaturally coiffed locks, while and skin care technologies and is ficacy of natural bent has also been creating uber-WAG Victoria Beckham’s graduated bob (or asking the right questions,” says a product. waves. “Mineral makeup has been “Pob”) spawned an instant haircutting craze. —B.C. Maria Hatzistefanis, founder of a big story over the past 12 months, treatment brand Rodial. “They’re very they’re incorporated everywhere from savvy about what products can and picking up foundations to eye shadows,” says inspired by the catwalks,” says Nicky cannot do,” agrees Jill Hill, managing on trends Natalie Moon, marketing manager of Kinnaird, founder of Space NK. director of Aspects Beauty Co., a even be- Rimmel London at Coty U.K. The “They’re more aware that beauty is distribution company, and Juniper, total makeup segment is growing at an extension of fashion.” a manufacturer. “I hear customers fore they a steady clip, generating sales of $2.5 Consumers also tend to take talking about nanotechnology and hit the billion in 2007, up over 8 percent year- a fashion-oriented approach to iannoni sodium palmate.” market. on-year, according to Euromonitor. fragrance, either opting for the must-

Thanks to exhaustive coverage It’s expected to reach $2.89 billion by have scent of the moment or a hard- iovanni G in the press, consumers are also 2012. Mascara, in particular, posted to-find scent by a niche brand. “We well-versed on the relative merits of strong sales, growing by 12.5 percent don’t have a tradition of having a high-tech ingredients versus natural in the mass segment and 7.5 percent love affair with one fragrance that unway by G alternatives. “Green considerations in premium, according to Bell. lasts throughout our lives,” says ith R are increasingly top-of-mind for many “The time for glamour is back,” Hill. In 2007, fragrance sales totaled women and these can override other says George Hammer, chairman of $1.55 billion, a 2.5 percent increase, aul Sm choice factors, including celebrity/ Urban Retreat, a U.K.-based spa, according to Euromonitor. Of that orbis; P brand-expert endorsement or product salon and retail chain, adding young figure, premium women’s fragrances C claims,” states a Mintel report. British girls like to experiment with accounted for $729.3 million, while aga/ The natural market’s growth here makeup colors and accessories such premium men’s scents generated sales has been driven by consumer concerns as false eyelashes. “[People here] are of $562.5 million. about synthetic chemicals, particularly parabens, sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate, according to a study by Organic Monitor. Marketers have been quick to cater to that anxiety. In the first quarter of 2007, orbis; tower bridge by Jose Fuste R

U.K.-based brands produced C 19 percent of the 1,053 new organic and natural beauty products introduced worldwide, uck/epa/ according to Mintel. Margo aul B

Marrone, co-founder of The by P m Organic Pharmacy, contends

brands will hit the jackpot beckha here by creating results- oriented products based on natural ingredients. “Someone using an anti- aging product doesn’t want a lavender cream,” she says. 26 WWD Beauty Biz dior

dior mage.com I ire W espa/ christian lacroix Jeff V y PAST PRESENT

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When it comes to creating beauty trends, the runway and the red carpet are as influential as they are unlike each other. the former thrives on risk ATTRACTtaking, the latter on playing it safe. That dichotomy was heightened this year because of the calendar: the Academy Awards coincided timing-wise with the Fall 2008 ready-to-wear shows in Paris. while the two shared overarching key ideas, the execution was decidedly—and thrillingly—different. By Jenny B. Fine and Jennifer Weil Katherine Heigl heidi klum marion cotillard TK viktor & rolf

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GET SHORTY

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Stella mccartney

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LESS IS MORE valentino Designers don’t hesitate to send models down the catwalk with only the barest hint of makeup (a swipe of mascara and a daub of blush at most) and minimally styled hair. But back in the real world, a top-notch actress wouldn’t dream of hitting the tilda swinton red carpet without spending some quality time prepping. Until this year, when best supporting actress winner Tilda Swinton accepted her award in all of her natural glory. Her one-shouldered Lanvin gown may have garnered jeers from the mainstream press, but Swinton’s fresh-faced bravery was a risk that worked. penÉlope cruz jennifer garner cameron diaz 32 WWD Beauty Biz WWD Beauty Biz 33 giambattista valli lanvin elie saab comme des garcons mage.com I ire W icelotta/

M INTENSE EYES k ran

Y F Heavily lined black eyes were B one of the standout trends of

IDMAN the Paris collections. Looks ranged from extreme, as at Givenchy, where Aaron de

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azur/ balenciaga means old school, and this Balenciaga and Comme Des year was no exception.Exhibits Garçons, where thick swathes A and B: the slightly mumsy Y Kevin M of black were liberally applied side sweeps of Hilary Swank VALENTINO B on the upper lids. and Nicole Kidman. In Paris, this season’s updos were K, ALBA VALENTINO

more organic, less perfect. , SWAN “You see the finger marks that pull the hair back,” said stylist Guido Palau of his tough-chic French twists at Lanvin. At dries van noten Giambattista Valli and Givenchy, wispy strands floated out of low-slung chignons. Explained lanvin Luigi Mureno, of the appealingly

low-key look he created at feugere, giovanni giannoni; RUSSEL E

Givenchy, “It has sensuality.” an PH Karl Lagerfeld

MORE FROM PARIS... Two key runway trends destined for interpretation on the red carpet.

john galliano nina ricci chanel delphine achard, dominique maitre, ste y Y b RUNWA

GOLDEN ACCENTS

Gold provided a surprising—but low-key—accent for both hair and makeup. At Chanel, it was used liberally on the models’ nicole kidman eyelids, as well as painted nina ricci on their hair to highlight an otherwise natural style. At Nina Ricci, Pat McGrath created a gold vertical streak above and below each model’s left eye and swathed lids with a combination of burgundy and gold, while at Dior, flashes were used to highlight hair. As different as each case was, the end result was the same: keri russel hilary swank jessica alba subtle and beautiful. 34 WWD Beauty Biz WWD Beauty Biz 35 Dress by Corey Lynn Calter, silk cardigan by Collection K, necklaces by J.Herwitt, Zoë Chicco and Erickson Beamon.

By Marcy Medina Photographed by Kayt Jones Blonde beauty Abbie Cornish may epitomize the Hollywood ideal, but the Australian actress isn’t about to let good looks stand in the way of a great role.

WWD Beauty Biz 37 tion With cate blanchett in ... in candy... to another. “I fill my suitcase up on a trip and when I c e elizabeth: the golden age...

ll get through that I go back to the store or to my Mum’s, where I’ve got my things in a storage shed,” she says. “I have things that follow me around for years, like these eters Co P l jeans and a couple of jackets.” ea N Cornish grew up in Australia’s Hunter Valley, a region two hours north of Sydney known as farm and wine country. “The land is incredibly green aramount/ and gorgeous,” she says. “Every time I go back it overwhelms me. Something I do love about L.A. is oss by P l that there is some sense of space here.” She played piano and guitar, and became a vegetarian at 13. (She continues to work as an activist tion; stop- c

e with animal rights groups in Australia, including a ll Hollywood has its share of golden girl imports from process of costumes, hair and makeup. Of working Web site called Voiceless that is part of Animal Club, Australia—Nicole Kidman, Naomi Watts, Cate on Elizabeth she says, “That was fun for me because for which she is an ambassador.) As a young girl, she eters Co

P Blanchett—and newcomer Abbie Cornish looks set I’ve never jumped that far back into history. The hoped to become a musician or a veterinarian, both l

ea to join the list. dresses and jewelry and hair and makeup…it was jobs that would allow her to travel, another passion. N

m/ In her first American movie, the war drama exciting to see how it all comes together. The hair “I loved drama class but never thought of acting as a l i Stop-Loss, in which she plays the small-town fiancée was just done to perfection and I loved the care and job. It kind of came from nowhere,” she says. INKF H of an solider played by Channing Tatum, precision taken with the makeup base because it was After taking six months off to travel through Cornish’s natural beauty shines through despite the lighter that my own skin.” Western Europe after high school (she returned y by T d grittiness of the role. “I saw [my character] Michelle Makeup artist Jennifer Shircore focused on home “because I ran out of money,” she recalls), she an as strong and tough. She could shoot a target with the character’s pale Elizabethan complexion, going started acting in television and small films. Cornish tion; c

c the boys, drive a car well and preferred to be in minimal on the eyes (she points out that it was is currently in London filming ’sBright e

ll jeans and boots rather than a skirt,” says Cornish. “I an “eyebrow-less era”), lips and cheeks, infusing Star, about the romance between 19th-century poet wanted to make her very real and didn’t want her to Cornish with a youthful glow. “One of the first John Keats and his neighbor Fanny Brawne. Keats

eters Co seem preoccupied with the way she looked.” things Abbie asked me for was a picture of [her died of tuberculosis before the two could marry. P l As the film follows Michelle on an emotional character] Bess, which she had enlarged and kept One of a coterie of young international actresses ea N

/ road trip over three days, scenes called for her to in her dressing room. I had admiration for the taking Hollywood by storm, a group that also l look as though she’d spent the night in a car or way a young actress approached that part. She had includes Brit Emily Blunt and France’s Marion worn a hat over her hair all day, hardly picture- really done her homework,” says Shircore. “She Cotillard, Cornish is no stranger to the Tinseltown niversa perfect. But the reality suited Cornish, a no-frills was in the chair for about an hour and a half each scene. So far, though, she’s handled it like a pro. by U h sort of gal herself. morning and wanted to know all the whys and Despite tabloid reports linking her to Stop-Loss abet

z “When I do photo shoots, they do a great job wherefores and if she didn’t agree with something, co-star , the actress has resolutely i l e making me look good. But when I act it’s a different she certainly said so. She’s got lovely skin, so it was maintained her silence, focusing solely on furthering thing. I prefer to find truth to a character, and with no hardship to work with her. And she lost her tan her career instead. Of “making it” in Hollywood, this one, I felt less was more with makeup and hair,” over those four months.” the L.A.-based Cornish says, “For me the process of she says. By contrast, Cornish showed up to the WWD being an actor doesn’t feel confined to the country I Cornish, 25, burst onto the big screen in 2006 Beauty Biz shoot with a healthy California glow, was born in or where I live now. In the same regard, with the Australian film Candy co-starring Heath wearing a lace top by Australian designer Marnie there’s a huge concentration of the industry here Ledger and Geoffrey Rush, a well-received art Skillings, a pair of jeans she’s had since she was so I feel really lucky,” she continues. “But I think house release in which she played one-half of a 17 and rubber boots that she bought in London it’s important to maintain that sense of vision and heroin-addicted couple. She embraced the role, while filming Elizabeth. Her outfit was indicative passion and not get jaded by the familiarity.” which followed her title character’s seven-year battle of her style—a touch feminine, yet comfortable and with drugs. “So many days I walked into work and practical. She also keeps her personal beauty routine they made me look worse then when I walked in. simple, eschewing makeup when she’s off-duty. Dark circles under my eyes, spots on my face, red “Sometimes it’s just nice to have a fresh face. You around my nose,” she remembers. “It was wonderful can feel the buildup after shooting for several weeks, to feel that raw. There was something so liberating so I like to sit in a steam room and use a washcloth to that.” on my face. I also love massages. It’s so nice for Critics immediately compared Cornish to a your body and your mind,” she says. Her daily ritual young Kidman. Though she hasn’t yet worked with consists of a gentle cleanser and with Kidman, the actress has played opposite Blanchett, sunscreen. Period. in 2007’s Elizabeth: The Golden Age in which Cornish “I’m not into things that are overly perfumed or was a lady-in-waiting to Blanchett’s queen. Despite that feel like they’ve been through a thousand different the low—or virtually no—maintenance look of processes before they went into the bottle,” she says. her previous films, it’s clear that Cornish relishes As for fashion, Cornish has lived out of a suitcase ...and as michelle in stop-loss. preparing for her roles, as well as the transformative for the last few years, hopping from one film location

Dress by Tucker, spider pendant by J. Herwitt, necklace “so many days i walked into work and they made me look worse by Zoë Chicco. than when i walked in. dark circles under my eyes, spots on Hair by Jamal Hammadi for Hamadi Beauty at Magnet LA; my face, red around my nose. it was wonderful to feel that raw. Makeup by Kara Yoshimoto Bua for Chanel at traceymattingly.com; there was something so liberating to that.” Styled by Hellin Kay; Manicure by Libbie Simpkins; Producer: Kenhalo Bernet-Millán.

38 WWD Beauty Biz WWD Beauty Biz 39 MEET

By MOLLY PRIOR THE LOCALSILLUSTRATED by KATE DRENDEL AND BRIAN A. Shabaglian Sure, superstar spokes- Dior has a knack for attracting glamorous recognizable faces do more to establish the fashion spokesmodels. After all, Sharon Stone, Charlize brand’s skin care authority in the Asian market. people have their place. Theron and Mylène Jampanoi have all fronted the A Japanese employee suggested Jampanoi But more and more French-born brand. during a brand meeting in Tokyo, recalls de Saint companies are turning to Mylène Jampanoi? She is, as the Alphaville Michel. Upon returning to Paris, he arranged a local celebrities to reach song goes, “Big in Japan.” lunch meeting with the budding actress. “I was In January, Dior recruited the striking French immediately seduced.” So, apparently, were Asian their ever-increasing actress, whose father is Chinese, as the latest face magazine editors during Jampanoi’s two-day press global markets. for DiorSnow, a whitening skin care range sold tour in South Korea. “She seduced them all,” says throughout Asia. Jampanoi, as it happens, is a friend de Saint Michel. of Dior designer John Galliano and frequently Dior is not alone in its bid to recruit locally attends his runway presentations in Paris. admired celebrities. The rationale for a micro The brand, like many of its global peers, approach is simple: Engender trust by showing has found that when it comes to selling beauty consumers someone who looks like them. For products—skin care in particular—it pays to instance, choosing a successful Taiwanese actress mine local celebrities as well as global superstars to market in China may subtly reassure consumers as spokesmodels. Beauty experts in favor of there that the product pictured in the ad is suitable the practice say it adds an air of authenticity, for their skin. particularly when a Western brand is courting an New York, the L’Oréal-owned Asian, Indian or South American consumer. cosmetics range that sells to more than 90 markets, Dior introduced DiorSnow in 2001 with an employs market-specific spokespersons around ad visual featuring a blonde, fair-skinned model the globe. “Even though we’re a global cosmetics replete with snowflakes gently nestled on her company, we find that acting locally is crucial,” hair and eyelashes, recalls Louis de Saint Michel, says Cyril Chapuy, global general manager of Dior’s international skin care marketing director. Maybelline New York. “Cultures vary so much Since then, having used both no-name models from one continent to another that understanding with raven hair and ambiguous features and well- the different beauty standards and feminine ideals known regional stars, including Korean actress are key to meeting our consumers’ needs and Choi Ji Woo, Dior found that high-profile, highly growing our business. Everything counts to be

42 WWD Beauty Biz WWD Beauty Biz 43 Gloria Appel, who oversees P&G’s Cover For its part, the Estée Lauder brand leverages INDIA: Girl brand as executive vice president, group its global spokeswomen worldwide, including Vidya Balan director, of Grey Advertising, says, “The model Gwyneth Paltrow, Elizabeth Hurley, Carolyn National has to reflect beauty, but it has to be a beauty Murphy and Hilary Rhoda. The American-born relevant to the market.” Appel notes that Cover Rhoda was discovered on Paris runways and it was When director Pradeep Sarkar was Girl, which is largely a North American brand, her European tear sheets that garnered Lauder’s Pride searching for his “perfect” Parineeta moved away from its blonde, blue-eyed heritage attention. She is the current face of Estée Lauder’s (a key character in The Betrothed, long ago, and consistently uses Hispanic models whitening line, Cyber White, in Asia. Estée Though these actresses and pop stars are relative adapted from a Bengali novel by in mainstream media efforts and in ads specific to Lauder group president John Demsey points out unknowns outside their homelands, they’re household Sharat Chandra Chattopadhyay) for the Hispanic community. Over the years, Cover that the blonde beauty Carolyn Murphy was a his virgin venture in Hindi cinema, Girl’s spokesmodels have included model Patricia well-known model in Japan prior to inking a deal names in their own countries. All are professionally the industry was convinced he Velasquez, Mexican-born actress Ana de la Reguera with the brand. “She was a better known star in accomplished, personally beautiful and still unsigned needed a superstar. It was, after all, and former Miss Universe Amelia Vega. Japan than anywhere else in the world before she to a beauty brand. Based on their burgeoning success, to be his magnum opus. Instead, On the left, a Greek Olay ad featuring actress Athena Maximou; While the strategy of having local spokesmodels broke out on the runways in Europe and in the Sarkar chose Vidya Balan, a relative on the right, an Argentinian ad with actress Florencia Raggi; is most often deployed by mass market brands with U.S.,” he recalls. though, that’s not likely to remain the case for long. unknown. The critics were skeptical, below, an ad from India with actress Sushmita Sen. a broad retail reach, both mass market and prestige While Lauder doesn’t use regional but Sarkar was convinced. His brands use advertorials featuring local models to spokesmodels, Demsey is still a self-professed instincts proved correct: Balan carried the burden of the era film relevant locally: the contours of the face, the shape entice consumers, particularly in Asia. One beauty student of pop culture—wherever he happens to ITALY: Brazil: of the lips, of the eyes (even the eyelids or eyebrows), marketer who requested anonymity notes that in be. After landing in a city (anywhere across the as effortlessly as she collected the the body language and the way to deliver a line.” Asian markets, prestige brands will generally run globe), he heads to his hotel room, flips on MTV Laura Chiatti Alice BragA awards and the critical acclaim that Some of Maybelline’s local stars include the a traditional print ad featuring the Western global and grabs a stack of magazines ranging from followed, including The Filmfare emerging Bollywood actress Deepika Padukone in spokesmodel in the front of the magazine, and a tabloids and celebrity rags to high-fashion titles. Dubbed Italy’s nuova Brigitte Alice Braga, 25, the niece of performances in other hit Brazilian (one of India’s most India, Kurara Chibana in Japan, the Thai actress three- to six-page advertorial with Asian models “I like to get a sense for what the standard is, what Bardot, actress Laura Chiatti made Brazilian actress Sonia Braga, has films, like the Oscar-nominated coveted awards), Zee Cinema Best Janie Thienphosuvan throughout Asia and the or soap opera stars near the back of the book. The designers people wear and what Western stars they her name by starring in a mobile the talent and stunning looks to Cidade de Deus (City of God), Debut Award and Star Screen for Chinese actress Ziyi Zhang, who appears in global marketing tool is widespread in Taiwan, China, like....It’s always interesting to get a sense of what’s phone commercial in 2006. From follow in her aunt’s footsteps. The has had smaller parts in recent Most Promising Newcomer. Since marketing efforts. South Korea and Japan, where it can account for 35 aspirational,” he says, adding that after scanning there the blonde ingenue landed award-winning role that catapulted American movies, among them then, the 30-year-old actress has It’s a strategy that works. Valerie Zhang, to 45 percent of a prestige beauty brand’s advertising through Russian magazines, for example, it’s easy a breakout role as a daughter her to stardom here was that of Blindness (2007) and I Am Legend been lauded for her versatility. She the beauty manager for Vogue China, credits spend in the country, according to the executive. to grasp the country’s love for “pure, unadulterated prepared to sell herself to absolve Karinna, a hooker whom two men (2006). Already famous in her morphs comfortably into a dreamy- local celebrities with helping propel Procter & Outside the pages of magazine advertorials, luxury,” and in Japan to see the cataclysm of street her father’s debts in Italian film fall for and fight over, shattering homeland, she garnered enough eyed girl in a conventional Indian Gamble’s Olay line to bestseller status in China. many prestige brands, such as Estée Lauder, fashion and high-end designers. L’amico di Famiglia (Family Friend). their friendship, in the 2005 hit kudos in those films to be one of 10 household as easily as she turns into , a well-known actress in China, Chanel, Lancôme, Avon and , choose to Referring to Lauder’s decision not to recruit Since then the 25-year-old actress movie Cidade Baixa (Lower City). starlets featured in and on the cover a glamorous, independent woman is the current face for Olay Regenerist, the brand’s use their megawatt stars to reinforce their brand local models, he explains, “It’s a question of a point has flexed her craft in a series of New York Times reviewer A. O. of Vanity Fair’s Annual Hollywood to fight ferociously for the custody

orbis movies, including the teenage Scott said that Braga’s “tough, of her child. Still, Balan is taking premium antiaging line; the Taiwanese model strategy worldwide. “Our strategy is a global talent of view. We’ve had tremendous diversity in terms of C Issue this year. —Mike Kepp Chiling Lin fronts Olay’s whitening range, and strategy. The focus is to utilize globally relevant, where our [spokeswomen] come from, but there is a comedy Ho Voglia di Te (I Desire candid performance...almost success in stride. “Life is beautiful,” You) and the dramatic A Casa makes the movie work.” For she says of her philosophy for , a lauded actress in China, appears in high-profile celebrities,” says Elizabeth Crystal, certain elegance and glamour and look to a Lauder euters/ R / Nostra (At Our House), in which she Brazilians, Braga’s raw and success. “You just have to look at it ads for and moisturizers, notes Zhang. Revlon’s senior vice president of marketing. Enter model.” He notes, “We are constantly looking for w

ha —Neena Haridas “Their faces appear in all mediums, including , Jessica Alba and, the latest addition people who connect with our aspirational qualities played a cocaine-addicted model. realistic sex scenes definitely from the right angle.” magazines, TV and in-store appearances. Because to the Revlon star stable, Elle Macpherson. from a beauty and lifestyle standpoint, and that Chiatti hails from Perugia, an Italian made the film work. Braga, of these spokeswomen, Olay has been a top-selling Crystal adds the company’s research shows its could very well mean there’s an Asian face or a town famous for chocolate, where who has turned in strong brand in China,” says Zhang. worldwide customers want to see a high-profile South American face associated with the brand. she still lives, preferring to eschew supporting P&G used that same tactic to introduce Olay celebrity, often of Western origin, in Revlon’s It’s more about the stature of the individual as the paparazzi’s eye. With her star to India last year, recruiting Indian actresses to marketing efforts. an international star.” Quoting Leonard Lauder, on the rise, though, that may not

mage; balan by Jayanta S be possible for much longer. speak candidly about their lives, beauty routines “Those types are celebrities are most appealing chairman of the Estée Lauder Cos., Demsey adds, I — Francesca Vuotto and fondness for Olay Total Effects, says Michael and drive success for us,” says Crystal. There are “Great faces launch great products.” Kuremsky, vice president, Olay global franchise certain instances where Revlon recruits a local leader. He adds that actress Sushmita Sen has model, including in Ultima II and Gatineau appeared in print and TV ads and in public skin care advertising visuals. But Crystal pellman/Wire relations and Internet efforts, and actress Tisca notes the Western beauty ideal has broadened Chopra in advertorials and on the Internet. as America’s population has grown move diverse. “By connecting with aspirational Indian women That broadening, a number of beauty executives on a personal, woman-to-woman level, consumers agree, makes Hollywood an ideal place to mine mage; braga by Jim S in India felt they could bond with these actresses talent whose stars burn bright enough to have a I and trust the Olay brand,” explains Kuremsky. global effect. P&G’s high-end skin care range SK-II selects “I would argue that Hollywood produces

brand ambassadors—including the Chinese the most internationally known celebrities,” says arson/Wire actresses and Momoi-san and Chinese Stephen Mormoris, senior vice president, global model Qi Qi—from different markets, featuring marketing, for Coty Beauty, “which explains ony B them in advertising efforts in Asia, in addition to the broad penetration and sales U.S. films enjoy actress Cate Blanchett, SK-II’s global face. throughout the world.” chiatti photo by T “Cultures vary so much that understanding the different beauty standards and feminine ideals are key .... everything counts to be relevant locally: the contours of the face, the shape of the lips, of the eyes, the body language and the way to deliver a line.”

44 WWD Beauty Biz WWD Beauty Biz 45 Great Britain: France: Australia: Taiwan: Middle East: mage I mages Emma Watson Alice Taglioni Delta Goodrem I Terri Kwan etty G / OUB

As overachieving wannabe wizard her in numerous magazine best- She’s portrayed a supermodel, TV soap star at 17, pop star at 18, J Though this bright-eyed, rising Horse Award nomination and a Pop star Diana Haddad’s musical and professional lives, which hamim/Wire and Harry Potter sidekick Hermione dressed lists. According to her Web a journalist and a lawyer, though cancer survivor at 19, Australian starlet is one of Taiwan’s next gorgeous top model boyfriend later, talents were apparent at the tender earned her great respect in the MAH Granger, Emma Watson has been a site, Watson is “slightly obsessed not yet a pianist, the profession singer-songwriter-pianist Delta emerging actresses, association Kwan has become a media darling, age of eight. Born in and Middle Eastern entertainment household name in the U.K. since with cosmetics” and beauty that French actress Alice Taglioni Goodrem has packed a lot into with stardom was not originally especially after her latest role in the raised in , she returned industry. She’s released over 10

she was nine years old. Now, at 18, packaging in particular. She also originally trained for. After more her 23 years. Signed to Australia’s MOHAMMED the case for 32-year-old Terri action film Shamo, which was first to Lebanon with her family after albums and garnered more than the actress is working her magic admits to a one-time obsession than a decade at the piano, movie Sony Music at 15, Goodrem’s Kwan. A prominent socialite and released at Cannes last November the Gulf War broke out in 1990. 15 number-one hit singles. Haddad on the fashion set as well. Watson, with Carmex . Watson stardom beckoned and at 30, debut album Innocent Eyes was the the daughter of a well-known and in this March. She began her career in the can sing in five different Middle who was born in Paris and grew up has signed on to complete the Taglioni’s something of a household biggest-selling album in Australia businessman, Kwan’s natural —Jillian Wu early Nineties with a few winning Eastern languages, which gives her mage; goodrem by Ferdaus S in England, has been cropping up at Harry Potter movie series, but she name in France, with more than a in 2003, spending 29 weeks at I entrepreneurial spirit allowed her to singles; her first album, Saken, talent a wide—and ever escalating— orbis; haddad by by haddad orbis; the front rows of shows (including recently laid down her wand to star dozen films to her credit. In the first the top of the charts, spawning C divert from the stable tracks of her was released in 1996 and was an popularity: She’s received a number Chanel), hipster-oriented shindigs, in non-Potter productions. While of three movies this year, Taglioni five number-one singles, earning family business and right onto the instant hit all over the Arab world. of esteemed awards in different arson/Wire euters/ such as Balenciaga’s store opening she didn’t gain the notoriety that plays a lawyer in What If…, where platinum status 14 times and seven R silver screen—much to her family’s In 1995 she married a prominent countries throughout the Arab in London in February, and on the fellow castmate Daniel Radcliffe she competes for the same job Australian Recording Industry ony B dismay. Achieving this was no easy TV director and gave birth to their world, including Lebanon, United hung/ cover of glossy magazines like Teen did when he shed his clothes for promotion as her other half, played Association awards. After being C feat. She first enrolled at New York daughters Sofi in 1997 and Mira in Arab Emirates, Saudi Arabia, Egypt, Vogue and Tatler. Her red-carpet a West End play, Watson’s role as by her real-life beau Jocelyn Quivrin diagnosed with Hodgkins lymphona University to study performance 2007. Lauded for her multitasking Algeria, Jordan, Syria and Oman. ichard ichard fashion choices tend toward the an orphan in the BBC film Ballet of Syriana fame. Next, Taglioni at 18, Goodrem reemerged in 2004 R arts, then followed with a modeling methods, Haddad rose to stardom —Ekta Sawlani sophisticated, landing Shoes did solidify her spot as one crosses over to the other side of with a second album, Mistaken career and appearances in local TV quickly while balancing her family an by by an mage; taglioni by T I w

of Britain’s emerging young talents. the law. First as a femme fatale with Identity—and yet more number-one k shows. Seven films, one Golden —Brid Costello Jean Dujardin and Jean Reno in hits. Her third album, Delta, made Cash, said to be France’s answer to its debut at number one on the seven films,

a household Ocean’s Eleven, then in Sans Arme, ARIA albums chart in 2007 and has ormack/Wire C name since Ni Haine, Ni Violence, (Without to date reached double-platinum c one golden she was nine, Guns, Hate or Violence), about status. One of Australia’s most horse award the legendary bank robber Albert popular entertainers, Goodrem has amonn M nomination and Watson is Spaggiari. More action follows in achieved eight number-one ARIA now working Tous Sans Exception (Everyone No singles, multiple U.K. top 10s and a gorgeous atson by E her magic on Exceptions), a Mafia plot, at press time emerged as the first w top model alongside the eminent Australian recording industry boyfriend the fashion Gerard Depardieu. artist to win 12 number-one set as well. But it’s not all chart awards. Phew. Little later, kwan guns and tears wonder there’s so much is a media for the star, who speculation that L’Oréal is darling. bagged a two- preparing to tap Goodrem year contract as as a new Australian face, an ambassador for taking over from singer leather goods brand Natalie Imbruglia, whose Lancel last year. L’Oréal contract was —Ellen Groves not renewed last year. —Patty Huntington

Haddad can sing in five different middle eastern languages.

46 WWD Beauty Biz WWD Beauty Biz 47 Sao Paulo, Brazil by Michael Kepp Hong Kong by Jennifer Weil Amarynthe at Daslu “Jiki’s Tourmaline Mineral Soap, made with “Although not new, Escentric Molecules is totally pulverized tourmaline crystal, has a pyroelectric fun—high-tech, yet ‘primal.’ Imagine a fragrance effect, the ability to generate an electrical that doesn’t really have a fragrance (well, sort potential. When washing your face or body with of) with Iso E Super, which is usually combined the soap, some of the tourmaline powder stays with other blends, due to its enhancement on the skin and activates circulation, stimulates properties. But when used on the skin, it actually skin cells and thus facilitates skin renovation. accentuates and heightens one’s body’s smell.” This makes your skin softer, and works as an —Morgan Tan, general merchandise manager STAR antiwrinkle agent.” —Silvia Vinha, manager

London by Brid Costello Liberty “Aesop’s Wash and Protect Kit, with stimulating Cutting-edge retailers divulge notes of lime, bergamot and mandarin rind, is a standout product great way to start spring, and the fresh, natural their TURN scent will carry straight through to hot summer days. It epitomizes the Aesop ethos of drawing performers for spring. inspiration from travels around the globe and finding just the perfect combination of texture and natural fragrance to complement each product.” —Angela Creasy, beauty buyer Berlin by Melissa Drier Department store Tokyo by Amanda Kaiser Quartier 206 Tomorrowland “Organic is the hottest trend in skin care. The “Apothia’s Velvet Rope Eau de Parfum offers Organic Pharmacy line has everything that a unique alternative to the megabrands on the customers look for to fit their organic lifestyle. market. It’s more emotional. The fragrance market The Rose Plus Anti-ageing Face Cream is in Tokyo is mature and people’s knowledge packed with highly active ingredients and of quality and materials is increasing....Now organic nutrients that rejuvenate stressed customers want to know the stories, the skin. The unusually lightweight formula and background. Velvet Rope is unique. You can the concentrated antioxidant complex make it imagine the situation—it’s very special, A-list.” a perfect companion for spring.” —Tim Fischl, —Yasuhiro Sasaki, creative director for beauty beauty department manager and gift items uga s a K ie Yuk by phed a r g photo tore D S AN ORROWL Milan M ; TO

by Stephanie Epiro e n o Australia by Jenny B. Fine Profumo Iannacc “Amyitis by Mona di Orio embodies the s Kit effervescent, fresh days of primavera with its “Jemma Kidd’s Limited Edition Make Up eclectic notes of caraway, saffron and moss, English Rose Palette was inspired by the and its Champagne cork-inspired bottle stopper. look of a flawless English Rose and the —Guido Wetter, owner soft, floral tones from the spring catwalk. This is the type of international product our customers can’t wait to get their hands on.”

STILL LIFE PHOTOS BY THOma —Jo Horgan, founder 48 WWD Beauty Biz LAST CALL

Even now, I get stage fright before going onstage. To calm my stress, I go to a quiet place and concentrate on my inner self for a few minutes. As soon as I’m on stage, I become the character of the role and the stress melts away. IF YOU WEREN’T A DANCER, WHAT WOULD YOU BE? DANCING I would be the proud mother of many children and I would work for humanitarian causes. HOW DOES ACTING COMPARE TO DANCING? As first dancer at the Paris Opera ballet, For me, the focus is not at all the QUEEN At ease... same. It’s much more difficult to Sicilian-born Eleonora Abbagnato perform a character in dance than it is spends up to seven hours a day exercising WHERE DO YOU GET YOUR a scene of a film. On stage, you cannot ENERGY? make a mistake—everything must be yet also finds time to nurture a fledgling Since I was a child, I’ve always been perfect. That’s the big difference. film career, having scooped her first acting hyperactive....I love to move, I love WHO HAS BEEN YOUR BIGGEST life, it’s in my Italian blood! INSPIRATION? role in the Italian comedy, 7 el’8, II last year WHAT’S THE MOST CHAL- My greatest dancing inspiration is (she’s currently considering her follow-up). LENGING ROLE YOU’VE Mikhail Baryshnikov. However, music PLAYED? was very inspirational for me such as Here, the 29-year-old star opens up The role of Marguerite in Dame aux Tchaikovsky and Stravinsky. about beating stage fright and keeping a Camélias is a character who’s very WHERE IS YOUR FAVORITE feminine and complicated. Playing her PLACE? work/life balance. was really challenging because she’s a From Sicily to Rome and in between By Ellen Groves consumptive, passionate woman who is where I feel the most at home. sacrifices herself for love. WHAT ADVICE WOULD HOW DO YOU OVERCOME YOU GIVE TO BUDDING STAGE FRIGHT? BALLERINAS? To be passionate and always reach for your goals and greatest ambitions. You have to want it! Also what is very important is not to listen to others. You must listen to yourself first. WHAT ARE YOUR BEAUTY SECRETS? First of all, I do seven hours per day of dance training. I really think that my best beauty secret is a lot of sleep. Then, I get body and facial massages at least once a week in order to look relaxed and healthy. I use natural and organic beauty products such as Dr. Hauschka, Aesop, ModelCo and Kiehl’s. Last, I can’t live without Elizabeth Arden’s Eight Hour Cream. I also eat lots of fruits and vegetables (for vitamin C) and seafood. HOW DO YOU DEFINE YOUR STYLE? My style is a mix of graphic basics and cutting-edge pieces. My favorite brands are Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent, Martin Margiela and Costume National. HOW DO YOU ACHIEVE A WORK/LIFE BALANCE? I’m a very well-organized woman and it’s important for me to balance my career and my personal life. If you really want it you can achieve it easily, no matter what! WHERE WILL YOU BE IN 20 YEARS’ TIME? I see myself having a very big family, ...and preparing for work. in Italy, and enjoying life.

50 WWD Beauty Biz