The Daily Telegraph Saturday 3 February 2018 *** 15 A NEW SERIES OF EXPERT GUIDES TO TRAVEL IN 2018 No.7 TELEGRAPH TRAVEL INSPIRES 50 AMAZING WILDLIFE ADVENTURES

From Africa to the Arctic, Patagonia to the Pantanal, we reveal the world’s best animal encounters / FLPA LANTING FRANS Next weekend: 85 great ocean cruisesDownload the guides at telegraph.co.uk/tt-2018travelguides 22 *** Saturday 3 February 2018 The Daily Telegraph The Daily Telegraph Saturday 3 February 2018 *** 23 AMAZING WILDLIFE ADVENTURES 50 PACK YOUR TRUNKS An elephant in the CONTINUED FROM PAGE 21 Okavango Delta, below; a butterfy WILD DOGS AND OKAVANGO in Madagascar, 33 ELEPHANTS, THE APPLIANCE OF SCIENCE bottom ZIMBABWE 27 BOATING SAFARI, From smart skincare to very smart drones, Richard Madden has the right tech for your trip BOTSWANA In 2018, the BBC will be screening a documentary on the highly Many Botswana fans will have endangered wild dog, sometimes GOPRO KARMA DRONE built-in tutorial and fight congested areas. The drone must TICK REMOVER CARD experienced a magical ride in a called the painted dog, which was As in the best wildlife simulator, which makes learning remain in sight at a maximum Lyme disease, transmitted via mokoro canoe when the Okavango flmed over the course of two years at documentaries, drones should be to fy easy, and it has an automatic height of 400ft, a horizontal ticks, is an increasing problem in Delta is in food (May-October) but Vundu Lodge at the Unesco World used for flming overviews and take-of and landing button for distance of 550yd and at least 55yd Europe. This credit card-sized this adventure takes the experience Heritage site of Mana Pools, not close-ups, so animals remain frst-timers. Cleverly, it fies back from people, vehicles or animals. Lifesystems tick remover fts into to a new level. New for 2018, the Zimbabwe. This photographic safari unaware of their presence. to you and lands if it gets out of Drones are illegal in some a wallet and has a magnifying lens four-day trip explores the delta from will be guided by award-winning The Karma Drone is compact range – or if there is a lost countries or parts of countries. and two removal tools of diferent top to bottom while taking day trips wildlife photographer Bret Charman, and ultra-portable, and its connection or low battery. Make sure you read the UK Drone sizes. You need to remove all the from an uninhabited island. You’ll and Nick Murray, founder of Vundu computer games-style touch Safety: keep well away from Code at dronesafe.uk. tick’s mouth and body parts – and watch elephants and hippos swim Camp and guide for the BBC flm crew display streams a live view of what aircraft, airports, airfelds, £999 with hero6camera; this does the trick nicely. across the river in front of you and on their 300-day shoot the drone is seeing. There’s a buildings, high objects, trees and shop.gopro.com £4.49; lifesystems.co.uk may get a sighting of one of Africa’s ! Eleven days costs from £7,945 including rarest antelopes, the sitatunga. domestic fights but exclusive of ! Four days from £1,395 (minimum four international fights. Departing Nov 1 2018. people) reducing to £1,080 (minimum Wildlife Worldwide (01962 302086, six) excluding fights. Botswana wildlifeworldwide.com). Specialists (01473 599083; botswanaspecialists.co.uk). CORAL REEF DIVING WITH 34 PROJECT, OMAN Here’s an opportunity to join a 28 WHALE SHARKS, pioneering long-term study mapping LEDLENSER HEADTORCH ST HELENA and monitoring the exceptionally Flexibility is key when it comes to diverse coral reefs of the Arabian Gulf headtorches. Variable brightness, New fights from Johannesburg and the Gulf of Oman’s mountainous an adjustable lens (wide angle/ have opened up St Helena to Musandam peninsula. In the wake of spot focus) and angle of view adventurous divers. Until recently, heightened awareness of the plight of (rotating down/up/sideways) the island could only be reached by the world’s coral reefs, the research make all the diference – and this ship, making it expensive and data is a crucial tool in preserving model, the LedLenser H7.2, ticks inaccessible. Known as the expert, Dr Elena Chelysheva. Species GORILLA these reefs against development plans. all the boxes. There’s also a “Galapagos of the Atlantic”, the studied will include lion, cheetah, The expedition will follow the rechargeable version. island ofers pristine dive sites black rhino, elephants, wild dog, 32 TREKKING, CONGO protocols of an internationally £52.95; ledlenser-store.co.uk teeming with life – including large Grevy’s zebra and reticulated girafe. While many are aware of the gorilla recognised coral reef monitoring numbers of whale sharks from Guests learn in depth (and in luxury) trekking options in Uganda and programme – and the price includes PANASONIC CAMERA SKINCEUTICALS December to March – a recent WHY I LOVE about each species and the threats Rwanda, few have experienced the training as a Reef Check EcoDiver. If you’re after both high-quality Weather can damage your skin on phenomenon that has attracted the facing them. remote rainforest in the Republic of ! Seven days’ expedition contribution: stills and outstanding video a wildlife trip and prevention is attention of scientists worldwide. AFRICAN ! Nine days from £8,380 based on a group the Congo (not to be confused with its £1,732 excluding fights to Dubai. quality, there is no better hybrid better than cure. SkinCeuticals ! Eight nights including 10 dives costs of 10 travelling together including troubled neighbour, Democratic Departures: Nov 25 and Dec 2 2018. camera for the price than the has created a range of antioxidant, from £2,795 sharing with Dive Worldwide WILD DOGS international fights. The Explorations Republic of the Congo). Many consider Biosphere Expeditions (0870 4460801; Lumix GH5. Launched last year, it vitamin C-rich, moisturising and (01962 302087; diveworldwide.com). Company (01367 850566; Odzala-Kokoua National Park to be the biosphere-expeditions.org). can shoot 4K video at 60fps – hydrating sera/creams that Kate Humble, TV presenter explorationscompany.com). best place in Africa for gorilla sightings cinematic quality. On the protect against sun damage and GAME-VIEWING, (though they tend to spend more time HWANGE BUSH downside, 4K will burn up both environmental irritants. Choose he frst dogs trotted up to WILDLIFE in trees than their counterparts disk space and computer memory. from Brightening UV Defense 29 TANZANIA the dam, yards from where further east). Stay at Ngaga, Mboko 35 CAMP, ZIMBABWE £1,699.99; panasonic.com (moisturising SPF 30 sunscreen) Selous and Ruaha are Tanzania’s we sat. They drank, they 31 DISCOVERY TOUR, and Lango camps, which are all Opened in 2017, this is one of the best £40.95; CE Ferulic (vitamin C two largest game reserves. Located T frolicked in the water, MADAGASCAR dedicated to gorilla trekking. examples of a “back-to-basics” camp antioxidant) £129; Hydrating B5 in the south, they are both very play-fghting and scrapping almost ! Eleven days from £7,611 including all that is nevertheless serviced by top SWAROVSKI BINOCULARS (oil-free gel) £61.95; and Redness SEVEN-IN-ONE remote. While the concentrations within touching distance. I realised This small group tour led by highly fights. The Ultimate Travel Company (020 guides. While the tents are very Ofering crystal-clear sharpness neutraliser (gel cream). SURVIVAL TOOL of wildlife are not as great as in the that photographer Paul [Joynson- experienced guides explores some of 3553 2204; ultimatetravelcompany.co.uk). comfortable, luxury is not the top even in low light, these CL £78.75; skinceuticals.co.uk I haven’t tested the Adventure Serengeti to the north, the number Hicks] and I had stopped taking Madagascar’s protected areas in a priority. Located in a remote part of Companion 8x30 B binoculars are Medical SOL Origin in a real-life of species is far greater. The best photos and were just sitting, diverse range of habitats. You will see Hwange National Park, it is owned by easy to carry and will ft into a situation – but if I did, I’d be glad wildlife viewing, the most dumbstruck, eyes shining, grins many species of lemurs, endemic top guide Dave Carson and currently large jacket pocket. Their 8x of this palm-sized box. It has a dramatic landscapes and the best plastered across our faces. birds, chameleons and giant butterfies much of the guiding is done by the magnifcation (equivalent to a frelighter, knife, whistle, mirror, lodges are concentrated in as well as trees and plants from acclaimed Spike Williamson. Both are 400mm lens on a 35mm camera) compass, fshing equipment and relatively small areas, especially in baobabs to orchids. The tour can be professional guide course examiners. makes them a great choice for sewing kit, plus instructions for the Selous around the Rufji river. FLYING SAFARI, adapted to diferent levels of ftness It’s also one of the best camps in all-round viewing. 62 survival techniques. Opened in 2017, Asilia’s luxury KENYA along forest trails of varying grading. Africa from which to track large £910; uk.swarovskioptik.com £36.90. survivaldepot.co.uk Jabali Ridge lodge in Ruaha is 30 The itinerary includes Andasibe- wildlife on foot, with a reliable located on a rocky outcrop This unique air safari to study the Mantadia National Park, Madagascar’s chance of being able to approach BEST OF surrounded by giant baobabs and plight of Kenya’s endangered wildlife top protected rainforest site, the species such as lions and elephants. FRIENDS with excellent big cat viewing. will transport guests to the most unique spiny bush near Ifaty on ! An eight-night safari combining two A Samburu ! Eight nights split between Jabali Ridge remote and inaccessible parts of the the coast, and both Isalo and camps costs from £4,126 including mother and child Lodge and Roho ya Selous costs from country (Maasai Mara, Laikipia, Ranomafana National Parks. international fights. Expert Africa with an orphaned LEKI TREKKING POLES trekking pole. These Leki and collapse down from 4ft 4in £5,500 excluding fights (£600). The Samburu, Lewa) while meeting ! Sixteen days costs from £4,450 (020 3405 6666; expertafrica.com). Grévy’s zebra Lightness, strength, excellent grip Carbonlite 2017 poles come at a (135cm) fully extended to just 2ft Luxury Safari Company (01666 880111; world experts including Saba including fights. Rainbow Tours foal in Kenya and ease of carrying when not in price, but they are superb. (63cm). Tidy!

GETTY IMAGES; LONELY PLANET IMAGES PLANET LONELY IMAGES; GETTY luxurysafaricompany.com). Douglas-Hamilton and the cheetah (020 3553 0093; rainbowtours.co.uk). CONTINUED ON PAGE 25 use are what I look for in a Together they weigh only 14oz £110; leki.co.uk The Daily Telegraph Saturday 3 February 2018 *** 25 AMAZING WILDLIFE 50 ADVENTURES

VOLUNTOURISM – IS IT ETHICAL?

oluntourism” has attracted some bad press in recent years. Most ‘V examples relate to humanitarian projects where volunteers help to construct buildings or provide amenities for local communities. All too often, these projects lack tangible benefts and long-term viability, denying local people jobs and opening them up to exploitation. One recent case involved orphanages in Cambodia. The number of volunteers from abroad led to orphanages becoming big business. As a result, corrupt THE GREAT managers began to separate OUTDOORS children from living parents, then keep them in appalling conditions. CONTINUED FROM PAGE 23 Family breakfast at Chyulu Hills, Kenya, The more malnourished the above; hot-air children looked, the more money BALLOON balloons over the was donated by gullible foreigners. SAFARI, ZAMBIA Maasai Mara, right However, it is important not to 36 be put of. “Volunteering is still Busanga Plains has some of the best worth doing, but it’s essential to do lion viewing in Africa – and some of your research,” says Dr Matthias the best hot-air ballooning, with Hammer, director of Biosphere herds of elephant, zebra and lechwe Expeditions, a not-for-proft spread across the plains below. “citizen science”’ organisation that A trip to Busanga Bush Camp, in ofers wildlife conservation trips. Kafue National Park, is combined Often, there is no alternative to with crocs, hippos and bird life on “foot soldiers” from abroad who the Lower Zambezi and a visit to can be trained quickly to collect Livingstone Island above Victoria data, often in remote areas – so Falls, staying at Toka Leya camp. you are very much needed. ! A fve-night safari costs from £4,762 including all fights. Africa Odyssey (020 8704 1216; africaodyssey.com) BUSH GUIDE 37 TRAINING, AFRICA Based in South Africa, but with camps in Botswana, South Africa, Kenya and Zimbabwe, EcoTraining ofers short courses as a more immersive alternative to a traditional safari – at a fraction of the cost. You will learn everything from tracking skills and animal behaviour to conservation with twice-daily bush walks or drives. Camps ofer simple tented accommodation and Dr Hammer of Biosphere Expeditions excellent food. ! A seven or 14-day EcoTracker course costs from £935/£1,655 and a seven-day VOLUNTEERING Birding in the Bush course from £805 excluding fights. EcoTraining CHECKLIST (0027 13 752 2532; ecotraining.co.za). The following is COMMUNITY HORSE RIDING, an edited ! Is there clear version of tips involvement 38 BOTSWANA compiled by and “buy-in” Launched last year, this is a unique Biosphere from local way to immerse yourself in the Expeditions and people? Okavango wildlife, accompanied by its partners. local backup staf. You may fnd self-drive and small planes to visit the for one of the largest pachyderm FIELD WORK yourself cantering alongside herds of country’s most stylish safari camps in translocations in history (to AUSTRALASIA REPUTATION ! Do you know girafe or surrounded by elephant, some of the best wildlife locations Nkhotakota National Park) and ! Has your exactly what bufalo, wildebeest, lion and leopard. WHY I LOVE (Sossusvlei, Skeleton Coast, cheetahs have now been reintroduced, chosen project you’ll be doing Luggage is transported by mokoro CHEETAHS Damaraland, Etosha) is hard to beat. with the frst cub born in October 2017. HUMPBACK organiser won day-to-day? with meals cooked over campfres. ! Fourteen nights from £10,050 including ! Five nights from £3,040 incl fights. Expert 43 WHALES, TONGA awards? ! Do you know ! A seven-night mobile safari costs from car hire, domestic and international fights. Africa (020 3405 6666; expertafrica.com). ! What is its who will be £2,535, excluding fights, for experienced Princess Michael of Kent, The Luxury Safari Company (01666 880111; Snorkel alongside humpbacks in the conservation supervising? riders only. Ride Worldwide theluxurysafaricompany.com). company of Doug Allan (Sir David ethos? author of A Cheetah’s Tale FAMILY SAFARI, (01837 82544; rideworldwide.com). Attenborough’s legendary cameraman) ! Does it CAPTIVE s he ran, his action was WALKING SAFARI, 41 SOUTH AFRICA on a South Pacifc cruise. Allan has publish results? ANIMALS FLY AND SELF- indescribably elegant, This trip combines a break in Cape flmed for The Blue Planet, Planet ! Does it have ! If captive almost foating above the 40 MALAWI Town with a safari in Madikwe Game Earth, Life, Human Planet and Frozen a good safety animals are 39 DRIVE, NAMIBIA A ground, whirling and Opening in April 2018, Kuthengo is a Reserve, in the far north, with Planet, and has twice won the Wildlife record? involved, what The haunt of desert-adapted lions, twisting as he shadowed the small Robin Pope Safaris bush camp in excellent game viewing in one of the Photographer of the Year’s underwater is the purpose elephants, rhinos and magical oryx antelope, his long, white-tipped tail southern Malawi’s lush and virtually country’s best malaria-free reserves. category. The boat is skippered by PEOPLE of the captive in a surreal landscape of giant swinging to balance him as he made untouched Liwonde National Park. It In Cape Town you’ll check out the Lolesio Lui, the only operator Doug ! Is the project facility? dunes, Namibia is one of the best sharp turns. I saw for the frst time promises walking safaris and much two famous ocean aquariums, while will work with, due to his in-depth led by qualifed ! How much self-drive destinations on earth, a cheetah at full speed hunting, more in the grand tradition of this the lodge at Madikwe has two family knowledge of whales. experts? attention is paid with little trafc and superb roads. and the thrill of it engulfed me. legendary safari guide. The park’s suites, babysitting, and activities for ! Twelve days from £5,395 departing Sept ! Do you to the welfare of The fexibility of combining elephants were a source population the youngsters. It’s good value, too. 15 2018. Steppes Travel (01285 601050; know the profle the animals? ! Eight nights from £8,144 for a family of steppestravel.com). of other four in low season (April-November). Game volunteers on HANDLING viewing year-round. Yellow Zebra Safaris MARINE LIFE, the programme? ANIMALS (020 3199 7776; yellowzebrasafaris.com). ! Does this ever 44 SOUTH PACIFIC YOUR INPUT happen? ELEPHANT AID, In the wake of Blue Planet II, ! Is it clear how (Captive wild observing the creatures of the deep in your money will animals should 42 SOUTH AFRICA their natural habitat is high on the be spent? not be handled Guests can participate in &Beyond’s wish lists of many wildlife enthusiasts. ! Will you be for anything elephant conservation project at This pioneering new cruise around the kept informed other than Phinda Lodge, witnessing an elephant Solomon Islands, a centre of global about the essential capture and helping to change a radio marine biodiversity, anchoring most project after veterinary care.) collar. Seven elephant herds on the nights in sheltered bays and lagoons, you come reserve have been collared to assist will include snorkelling on some of the home? FURTHER with managing the population and world’s most pristine coral reefs and INFORMATION protecting it from poachers. diving with Fraser’s dolphins, whales PURPOSE ! Biosphere GIANTS IN Combine this with visits to and huge manta rays. The islands are ! Is it clear Expeditions FOCUS rural communities and also home to bird species including what you will (0870 446 0801; Snorkel alongside conservation projects. sea eagles, cockatoos, and coucals. get out of the biosphere- humpback whales ! Five nights from £6,395 ! A 15-day cruise costs from £7,295 experience. Is it: expeditions.org) on a Tonga cruise including domestic and excluding fights. Naturetrek (01962 733051; ! Training? ! Earthwatch with cameraman international fights from naturetrek.co.uk). ! Self- (01865 318838; Wexas (020 7590 0610; development? eu.earthwatch. Doug Allan 26 GETTY IMAGES; ANDREW CROWLEY ANDREW IMAGES; GETTY wexas.com). CONTINUED ON PAGE ! Adventure? co.uk) WILDLIFE TOURISM – DOES IT HELP? Richard Madden explains how to book a wildlife holiday and keep a clear conscience

f managed ethically with a clear conscience on training young people to America and the from the University of excellent source of (see our checklist), that once-in-a-lifetime be wildlife guides or chefs. Caribbean; and the Global Oxford’s Wildlife thoughtful, reliable advice wildlife holidays wildlife holday? Here are Sustainable Tourism Conservation Research and ofers specifc I can – and do – a few questions that will IS THE PROVIDER Council (gstcouncil.org/ Unit (see below), has guidelines on everything provide genuine support help you decide. ENDORSED BY A for-tour-operators), which compiled a list of 10 of the from tiger watching in to endangered species. CONSERVATION GROUP? has produced a set of world’s cruellest wildlife Asia to swimming with When tourists spend ETHICAL A wildlife operator environmental and experiences. These include whales and dolphins money to see wild animals, endorsed by one of the top sustainability criteria for walking with lions and (01273 823 700; it gives those species an CHECKLIST conservation organisations tour operators. riding elephants. responsibletravel.com). economic value in the will tick all the boxes. You eyes of local communities. IS THE OPERATOR OR can be sure, for example, IS THIS A GENUINE IS THE ENVIRONMENT THE WILDLIFE This, in turn, provides a LODGE ACTIVELY that tiger-watching trips WILDERNESS PROTECTED? CONSERVATION fnancial incentive to help INVOLVED IN supported by TOFTigers EXPERIENCE? The habitat (and therefore RESEARCH UNIT protect wildlife. COMMUNITY WORK? (Travel Operators For Wild animals belong in the welfare) of the animals you It publishes results and Tourism also provides Knowing that your holiday Tigers; toftigers.org) have wild. Although there are are going to see should not analysis of in-depth employment – at safari is directly helping local been checked for their exceptions – including be adversely afected by scientifc research into the lodges and camps in Africa people, and through them ethical credentials. some animal orphanages – the behaviour of you and ethics of wildlife tourism for example, the best of the conservation of the Other conservation most wildlife experiences your group. (wildcru.org). which use part of their animals you will see, is groups that support that involve captive Bad habits: avoid operations that change animals’ behaviour revenue to fund local crucial. Most operators sustainability and animals are unethical. FURTHER WORLD ANIMAL schools and healthcare will be keen to tell you responsible environmental animals is to be avoided. If DOES THE EXPERIENCE PROTECTION facilities. Observing this, about the work they are practices include the WILL THE NATURAL they are fed by tourists, EXPLOIT ANIMALS? INFORMATION This animal welfare local people are less likely doing in nearby villages, Rainforest Alliance BEHAVIOUR OF THE say, this can lead to them Don’t let your holiday charity works to promote to assist poaching whether it is providing (rainforest-alliance.org/ ANIMALS BE ALTERED? losing their fear of humans come at the price of the RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL animal welfare issues syndicates, despite being pumps for clean drinking green-vacations) for Any wildlife operation that – with undesirable and welfare of the animals The UK’s leading website and end cruelty to ofered hefty bribes. water, buying in local tour operators and has a long-term impact on sometimes fatal themselves. World Animal for environmentally animals (worldanimal So how can you head of goods and services, or accommodation in Latin the behaviour of wild consequences. Protection, using research friendly holidays is an protection.org.uk).