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2 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 26, 2010 WWD.COM Polo to Control South Korean Business By Vicki M. Young that enables us to directly oper- WWDMONDAY ate all of Asia with greater con- POLO RALPH LAUREN CORP. sistency across all markets and Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear has now taken its entire Asian channels in a manner that is more business in-house. closely aligned with our global FASHION Polo said Friday it will assume brand positioning and objectives.” A steady stream of famous and famous-looking direct control of its wholesale and The company began buying ▲ 6 diners — some in straight-from-the-office attire, retail distribution in South Korea back its Asian licenses in 2007, others in jean cutoffs — have come in for a bite from the licensee in that market, with the first being the Japanese at The Lion, a Manhattan bistro off lower Fifth. Doosan Corp., beginning Jan. 1. license. Polo has since bought The apparel firm said Doosan back the operations in other GENERAL will receive consideration of $47 Asian territories. The most recent Thanks to the Internet, the line between designer, million, consisting of a $25 mil- acquisition was the license with 1 Roger Farah consumer and brand is blurring as more and more lion cash payment for certain as- Dickson Concepts International businesses are being developed where consumers sets and an additional estimated Ltd., which it bought for $20 mil- get a say in what is designed and produced. payment of $22 million for inventory and other lion, plus $17 million in other consideration. assets, at closing on Dec. 31. The Dickson license, which ended Dec. 31, 2009, Spanish retailer Zara opened three stores in Doosan, which had the license for 12 years, was for the distribution of Polo-branded apparel 3 India within five weeks, through a joint venture will continue to distribute Polo Ralph Lauren in China, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Malaysia, the with Trent Ltd. products in the region until the end of the year. Philippines, Singapore, Taiwan and Thailand. Since it was founded in 1995, the Accessories There are currently 175 shop-in-shops and five Acquired licensed businesses become wholly 9 Council has grown in membership and scope and freestanding stores throughout South Korea. owned operations of Polo Ralph Lauren. A spokesman for the company said after the ac- With the Doosan announcement, Farah said, its annual ACE Awards have drawn celebrities quisition of the Doosan license closes, there won’t “[W]e are looking forward to a fully integrated and designers. be any other Asian licenses left in operation. Asian strategy that includes South Korea and le- EYE “Expanding and elevating our international verages the Hong Kong-based leadership, exper- presence is one of our highest strategic priori- tise and infrastructure we have established over 4 Robert Wilson’s annual midsummer benefit for his ties,” said Ralph Lauren, chairman and chief the last year in order to optimize the unique op- Watermill Center is always an over-the-top, weird executive officer. portunities of each country.” affair, but this year’s event on Saturday night, Roger Farah, president and chief operating The company is scheduled to report first- themed “Paradiso,” seemed even more so. officer, said, “Assuming control of South Korea is quarter results on Aug. 4. Vera Wang WWD Intimates is included as another important milestone in our broader Asian Shares of Polo Friday closed at $79.22, up a supplement to this issue. growth strategy. It is a major piece of the strategy $2.75 or 3.6 percent. Classified Advertisements...... 23 TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. Jones Apparel, Inter Parfums Ink Deal WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2010 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 200, NO. 17. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except for Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one By Julie Naughton ceo and chairman of the board at Inter Parfums. additional issue in January, May, June, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, August, September and “The loyal, multigenerational Nine West cus- November, and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine JONES APPAREL GROUP INC. HAS ENTERED tomer, which includes just about all the women Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; into a worldwide licensing agreement with I know, will be in our sights as we develop and Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional Inter Parfums USA, a subsidiary of Inter launch our first and subsequent fragrances and mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Parfums Inc., for the creation, production, mar- ancillaries under the brand.” Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North keting and distribution of women’s scents under Separately on Friday, Inter Parfums and its Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: the Nine West brand. Paris-based subsidiary, Inter Parfums SA, re- Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that The initial contract runs through 2016, with ported that their second-quarter sales were up your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If a provision for further renewal, and the first more than 20 percent. during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with scents are expected to hit counters in fall 2011, Inter Parfums Inc. posted sales of $107.8 mil- your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S said Richard Dickson, chief executive officer of lion during the quarter ended June 30, a 21.6 WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 branded businesses at Jones Apparel Group. He percent increase from $88.6 million in the same or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the added they will be sold globally in department period last year. The firm, which just signed a World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these and specialty stores, as well as Nine West’s free- beauty licensing deal with Betsey Johnson, at- offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. standing retail stores. tributed the gain to an upturn in sales from its WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, “Nine West has been creating dynamic fash- international specialty retail product distribu- UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART ion accessories for women since 1978,” Dickson tion business and product launches. WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED told WWD, adding that the company sells in 59 TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED countries and operates about 1,000 of its own MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. stores globally. “Our DNA has been about satis- fying cravings to be on trend, to be what’s hot BEAUTY BEAT and new. Fragrance has those same emotive Year-to-date sales jumped 26.9 percent to DAILY If you make the qualities. Once you understand the brand and $227.1 million from $179 million in the first six the emotional connection, all of a sudden our months of 2009. QUOTE “technology and tools going into the fragrance business makes a lot of Meanwhile, revenues at Inter Parfums SA sense. We believe the fragrance is a great exten- jumped 24.2 percent in the second quarter to sion of the Nine West brand.” 72.4 million euros, or $92.2 million, driven in accessible to large enough numbers The licensing agreement also gives part by growth from long-established product Firmenich the exclusive right to create and sup- lines and emerging markets. of people, you have the possibilities ply the initial Nine West scent, noted Dickson, At constant exchange, revenues increased adding that Jones is in the beauty business for 23.4 percent. of new industries evolving and the the long haul. “This is the start of a long jour- Dollar figures are converted from euros at av- ney — it’s not just one project,” said Dickson. erage exchange rates for the periods to which balance of power shifting. “Extending beyond fragrance is definitely part they refer. ” of our strategy, but first and foremost we want to Inter Parfums SA posted first-half sales of — Stephen Fraser, co-founder of Spoonflower, make the first fragrance successful in this highly 150.7 million euros, or $199.9 million, up 24.3 on crowdsourcing. Page one. competitive world.” percent year-over-year. At constant exchange, “I am delighted that our two companies will they advanced 26 percent. COMING THIS WEEK be joining forces to expand the Nine West brand — With contributions from into the fragrance category,” said Jean Madar, Jennifer Weil and Matthew W. Evans MONDAY: Alberto Culver Co. THURSDAY: Revlon Inc. and reports third-quarter sales Steven Madden Ltd. report and earnings. second-quarter sales Bethenny and earnings. Frankel TODAY ON TUESDAY: The Conference Board releases the Consumer SATURDAY: Dallas Collective: Confidence Index for July. The Men’s Show • Iconix Brand Group Inc. and (through Aug. 2). Under Armour Inc. report sec- • See more images from ond-quarter sales and earnings. SUNDAY: Accessorie WWD the ACE Awards and The Lion Circuit, AccessoriesTheShow, • Additional coverage WEDNESDAY: The Federal Children’s Club, CurveNY, Reserve Board releases the FAME, Intermezzo, .COM from the Accessories Beige Book economic report. Moda Manhattan and Council Special Report • Jones Apparel Group Inc. Nouveau Collective • Fashion Rehab: Reality TV reports second-quarter sales Lifestyle Show, New York on wwd.com/eyescoop and earnings. (through Aug. 3). • Destination Maternity • Margin London • This week’s Resort Corp. reports third-quarter (through Aug. 2).

PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY 2011 Trend: Desert Rose sales and earnings. • Pure London (through Aug. 3). WWD, MONDAY, JULY 26, 2010 3 WWD.COM

dismissed any notion the moves were campaign will break in the September issues of British, MEMO PAD related to the recent exits of top brass, French and Italian Vogue, Love, Another Magazine and V WHO SAYS SUMMER FRIDAYS ARE QUIET? including David Carey, who left to become Magazine. — Samantha Conti Condé Nast has unveiled its future — president of rival Hearst Magazines in and it means nothing less than a total late June. “This is a long and tedious, US WEEKLY GROWS UP: Us Weekly is marking its 10th rebalancing of the company’s business, cathartic process that we’ve gone anniversary with a shocker — and no, it’s not another aiming eventually for a 50-50 split through to recognize the necessity to ‘We’re getting married!’ cover story. Rather, the surprise will between advertising and consumer-derived shift directions,” the ceo said. He also come in the form of understatement, a quality not normally profits. On Friday (a summer Friday no brushed aside questions about whether associated with the secrets-baring Wenner Media title (or with less) chief executive officer Charles H. Sauerberg’s appointment presages his its editors emeritae, Bonnie Fuller and Janice Min). Indeed, Townsend announced a new structure own retirement. “I have no plans to according to publisher Victoria Lasdon Rose, there will be of top management, which bumped depart, whether it’s leaving the face of very little back-patting when the once-monthly title, which consumer marketing group president Robert the earth or leaving this office,” he said. was relaunched as a celebrity weekly in 2000, celebrates a A. Sauerberg up to the title of president “But I am setting in place a management decade of makeups, breakups and scandals. Instead, “Stars of Condé Nast (which had been one of structure that will survive any calamity Who Care” will be the focus of the festivities, which launch Townsend’s roles); gave chief operating this company might face.” this fall and will include a nationally coordinated volunteer officer John Bellando the additional title of Robert And as Sauerberg goes about finding day (“Celebrate for a Cause”), eBay celebrity charity chief financial officer, and made Louis Cona, Sauerberg more ways into consumers’ wallets, auctions, in-book features on do-gooder stars and their formerly executive vice president of Condé Townsend said he will increase his focus favorite organizations, a limited edition T-shirt (created by a Nast Media Group, an enhanced role as the on clients. “I’m actually going to deepen “notable” but still-unnamed designer) and, yes, a tie-in with company’s chief marketing officer. All three report to Townsend. my involvement with our key advertising clients [and] Us’ annual Hot Hollywood event in October. Beyond presumably bigger paychecks for the three become more involved in ensuring that we bring the right “We really didn’t want to focus, as many anniversary executives, the promotions speak to a larger strategic shift, value proposition to them,” he said (watch out publishers). issues do, on a look back,” said Rose, who’s been at the one cooked up over the last six months with the help of “The historical priorities that business helm since September McKinsey & Company (which, one may recall, has been have served our company so well 2000. “We wanted it to be really earning a hefty fee by helping Condé Nast with a bunch of — great content, best-in-class An image from current and [about] what we’re restructuring moves over the last 18 months). In a nutshell, magazines, key client relationships Stella McCartney’s seeing now. And the thing that the publishing company now wants to wring “as much out — remain the cornerstone of fall campaign. kept resonating with me, from of our consumer margin generation potential” as possible, what we do, but we need to move the conversations we’ve had with Townsend told WWD. That means lessening the company’s beyond magazines. The set of media or clients, is that one of reliance on just selling more advertising, which Townsend strategic course changes being put the greatest attributes associated sees growing “modestly” in years ahead as brands move in motion today will reorient our with the celebrities we cover more and more of their dollars into other media. He said his organization to thrive in this new is how they have used their goal is for the company to achieve parity between advertising world of opportunity, assuring the notoriety and their popularity to revenue and consumer-derived revenue in the next five years. brightest future for Condé Nast.” become advocates for others.” Advertising currently represents roughly 70 percent of the — Nick Axelrod How Lindsay, Mischa, Britney and company’s net profit margin, according to the ceo. “The Hills” gang fit into that is The significant consumer part of the equation now falls COLOR FORMS: Stella McCartney hard to say. But with a certain to Sauerberg. “I’m charging him with leading the company — never one to take herself too celebrity subset, giving back is hot in the creation of a new [business] model, which is seriously — has tapped British — Brad, Angelina, Sean Penn and technology-enabled, consumer-centric and [concerned with] artist Barry Reigate to illustrate Madonna are all doing it — and the monetization of that [consumer] relationship,” said her fall ad campaign, shot by Mert Rose is positioning the magazine’s Townsend, who emphasized magazine circulation “is in an Alas and Marcus Piggott. Reigate, anniversary accordingly. The incredibly strong moment.” He emphasized the importance whose work often has a dark and details of the multiprong program of digital initiatives in this model — whether in the form of sinister feel, took a decidedly are still being fleshed out, though. pay-for-play mobile and e-reader apps (e.g. Gourmet Live) lighthearted approach to this Added Rose, “It’s like an invitation and digitized magazines, or subscriptions generated through assignment, drawing cartoonish that says, ‘Come celebrate with branded Web sites such as vogue.com. “What I still don’t chubby letters, top hats, paint us, but no gifts.’” Except for those know how to do is to monetize the relationship with the splotches, pumpkins and spiders from advertisers — in the form consumer like the cable-distribution companies have been all over McCartney’s logo — and of ad pages, sponsorships and able to do,” Townsend ruminated. “Why will consumers pay clothing. McCartney told WWD she various other integrated-marketing 180 bucks a month for TV programming they never watch, was after “something direct and opportunities. Because, at the don’t know the brands of, have no interest in, and will simple, using Natalia [Vodianova] and key collection pieces, end of the day, Us isn’t a charity and could use the ad- [only] pay a dollar a month for a magazine subscription to contrasted by humor and a human touch in the treatment page boost: Year to date, the title’s ad pages are down 1.26 Glamour? There’s gold in those hills somewhere,” Townsend of the logo.” In the past, McCartney has worked with artists percent, to 926.58, according to Media Industry Newsletter said. “How do I mine it?” including Robert Crumb, and last fall she tapped the furry, (although it still is second to People in the category in terms As for the timing of the appointments, Townsend four-legged cast of Walt Disney’s “Bambi.” The latest of total pages year to date). — N.A. Zara Plunges Into the Indian Market Ruling Favors Gucci NEW DELHI — Moving fast in the Indian market, Spanish retailer Brands as franchisee. Mango’s growth has been relatively In Hotel Report Case Zara opened three stores in the country within five weeks. The slow, however. “At 500 million rupees [$10.76 million], India brand made its debut on the Indian market through a joint ven- contributes only 0.47 percent of our global business,” said MILAN — In record time for Italian ture with Trent Ltd., the listed retail arm of the $70.8 billion Isak Halfon, executive vice president, international franchise justice, a court in Florence ruled Tata Group. and expansion at Mango. in favor of Gucci, which earlier this Trent already has a presence in the retail industry with The reasons for the slow growth remain the same as those month filed an injunctive proceed- Westside stores and Star Bazaar hypermarkets. faced by other international brands: the high cost of retail real ing against Elisabetta Gucci, a de- Inditex controls 51 percent of the joint venture, while Trent estate and the lack of a focused fashion retail arena. “Business scendant of the dynasty. Ltd. owns 49 percent. Current regulations on foreign direct in- is scattered to malls and high streets unlike in West Asia, where The filing followed news re- vestment in India stipulate that foreign single-brand retailers most of the business for big brands comes from malls. Moreover, ports that alleged the luxury goods must pass a 49 percent stake on to a local partner. With this India also has to improve its infrastructure a lot,” Halfon said. house was entering the hotel busi- entry, Inditex, one of Europe’s largest clothing retailers, now Mango plans to open additional stores this year, plus look ness after Elisabetta Gucci re- has stores in 77 countries. at new formats within department stores. The retailer also vealed plans to open luxury ho- The flagship in New Delhi is a 19,375-square-foot unit in a has reduced some prices and renegotiated the terms of agree- tels with the name EG Hotels by shopping mall. “The country has a dozen cities whose popula- ment with the franchisee partner. Mango has five units in Elisabetta Gucci. tions each exceed three million people and the Indian market India — three stores in Mumbai, one in New Delhi and one According to the court’s order, all promises substantial growth potential for Zara’s fashion offer- in Bengaluru — and has seen sales growth of 20 to 25 percent parties have to immediately cease ing,” said Jesús Echevarría Hernández, Inditex’ chief commu- since lowering prices. any use of the trademark in ques- nications officer, at the launch. While Zara has entered the Indian market ahead of sev- tion, as well as of the domain name The stores have opened in relatively new malls — at eral other brands such as H&M and Gap, this is in line with “Elisabetta Gucci” for any business the Select Citywalk mall in New Delhi and at Mumbai’s the firm’s international expansion experience in the last two or advertising purpose. The court Palladium mall. The newest offering is in New Delhi’s DLF years. Asia has been an area of focus, with store openings in also imposed a penalty for any pos- Promenade mall. South Korea, China and Japan, where it opened a combined sible violation of the order. “The brand’s expansion would depend on the feedback we 63 stores in 2009. Gucci welcomed the decision, get from customers. We also want to open stores in Bangalore, India is another step in that direction, a challenge and which, it said, “represents a rel- Hyderabad and Chennai very soon. The average size for a Zara a growing market, which many international brands are in- evant precedent in terms of intel- store would remain 1,200 to 1,500 square meters [12,900 to creasingly looking at as a serious growth area. The accept- lectual property protection and 16,140 square feet],” said Hernandez. ability and desire for Western wear among Indian women has will hopefully act as a significant According to a June report by McKinsey & Company, Indian never been higher — Western style has become the new alter- deterrent for those who intend to apparel sales are forecast to reach $25 billion this year, hav- native and is fast becoming the norm to make a trendy fashion unlawfully license or commercially ing grown in excess of 10 percent over the past five years — a statement in metro areas. exploit the Gucci trademarks.” growth rate faster than that of the overall India retail market A recent report by The Associated Chambers of Commerce It also stressed the trademark — and the trajectory is expected to continue over the next five and Industry in India observed, “The frequency of purchase Elisabetta Gucci has caused cus- years, doubling within that time period. is the highest amongst youngsters. However, women in the 41 tomer confusion and has been Zara is the latest fast-fashion chain to enter the Indian to 50 years age group are also big shoppers. The northern and harmful to Gucci’s business and market. Rival Spanish retailer Mango launched in India in western regions of India account for the highest shopping of reputation. 2001 following a franchise model, with Indian company Major designer apparel.” — Alessandra Ilari 4 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 26, 2010 WWD.COM BOBOS IN PARADISE

ROBERT WILSON’S ANNUAL SUMMER BENEFIT FOR HIS WATER- mill Center is always an over-the-top, weird affair, but this year’s event on Saturday night, themed “Paradiso,” seemed even more so — the man in the snow monkey costume greeting guests at the entrance being the first tip-off. Further on into the grounds, there were strolling nudes, artists and models caught in nets hanging from trees, and a dude in a dunk-tank-like contraption getting green paint poured on him. “This feels Fellini-esque,” said one partygoer, gesturing towards an exhibition where guests limboed around a pole. “Like, things could get really wild.” A few exhibits were moving things in that direction. Jia- Jen Lin’s “Sweeping of the Earth with Wings Made of Rusty Knives,” which consisted of several naked men with waist- length black hair gyrating in an open wooden A-frame, was ▲Rufus Wainwright one of the most popular works. “We’re there! Let’s go!” in a cowboy shirt he shouted Alan Cumming and Rufus Wainwright, gleefully heading bought in “Park City, off into the woods and towards the piece, arm in arm. Utah…the liberal The evening’s dress code was “heavenly” and, from stronghold.” the looks of it, attendees had varied interpretations of the afterlife. Alec Baldwin, Calvin Klein, Eric Ripert, André Balazs, Alex Kramer and Zani Gugelmann went the conventional route with seersucker suits and designer gowns. But others accessorized their get-ups with helmet-like masks resembling a collection of tumors, fuzzy dice necklaces ▲Marisa Berenson; Alec Baldwin and angel wings made from feathers. Even Sharon Stone’s son, Roan Joseph Bronstein, seemed to be in the spirit of things with his crop of bright pink hair. Stone herself kept it simple in a white and black sundress, perhaps not to distract from her role as the fete’s auctioneer. After dinner, she took the mic, explaining “If you talk or breathe or move suddenly, it’s a bid. And then I take your money. Because I have this theory that money talks but cash screams. And it’s served me well over the years…but I can see you’re a bunch of tightwads.” ▲Sharon Stone Kicking off the bidding asking for “10 million — I mean 10 in Octavio Carlin. thousand dollars,” Stone then shimmied wildly in the middle of the stage. “A bug just flew up my dress,” she cried. “What an awkward moment. For the bug.” Stone was eventually relieved by Simon de Pury, who took up the job with gusto, but not before the actress had persuaded Wainwright to perform an impromptu rendition of his cover of “Somewhere Over the Rainbow.” As the festivities wound down and guests headed towards the west terrace for dancing, a lady’s stiletto heel got caught between two For more images, see stones on the torch-lit path. “This is hell,” she said. ▲Simon de Pury and Joran Weisbrodt; Brazilian model Cassia Avila. WWD.com/eyescoop. “No,” a friend corrected her. “This is Paradiso.”

DISASTER AREA THE WATERMILL GALA ALWAYS ENCOURAGES DARING DRESS, REALITY REHAB: BUT THESE PARTYGOERS REALLY LET THEIR FREAK FLAG FLY. SNOOKI STYLE

INSTANT CELEBRITY UNFORTUNATELY DOESN’T equate to instant style as proven by a number of reality TV stars. Case in point: Snooki from “Jersey Shore,” which premieres Thursday. This puffy-sleeved blouse and high-waisted shorts look is dated — not to mention unflattering for a curvy figure. Proenza Schouler offers Look into my a smarter option that would still let Snooki show off her sideburns, assets. For more fashion rehab from some of reality’s you’re growing worst offenders, see WWD.com/eyescoop. sleepy… Not-so- Proenza basic Schouler BYO cell satellite. black. fall 2010. ETT RAGLIN/GETTY IMAGES; PROENZA SCHOULER BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI ETT GIOVANNI RAGLIN/GETTY IMAGES; PROENZA SCHOULER BY

Nicole “Snooki” What’s worse What’s worse Pilozzi than dressingdressing likelike ParisParis Hilton? Doing so with a For more images, see thigh tattoo. Train to nowhere. WWD.com/eyescoop. ▲ Bird brain. BENN STEVE EICHNER; SNOOKI BY PHOTOS BY PARTY WATERMILL

6 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 26, 2010

David Brian Neville Atwood For more images, see and WWD.com/eyescoop. friend.

LIONS AND LIONESSES

AS ANYONE IN THE BUSINESS WILL TELL YOU, RESTAURANTS ARE ONE risky enterprise. But, at least for right now, The Lion, a chic bistro that Dan Abrams and Dave Zinczenko (among others) opened in May on a tree-lined street off lower Fifth, is king of the Manhattan jungle. One need only stand outside the eatery’s unmarked entrance during supper hours for proof. A steady stream of famous and famous-looking diners — some in straight-from-the-office attire, others in jean cutoffs — stride in for a bite. Last week alone patrons included Katy Perry, Vera Wang, Francisco Costa, Ingrid Sischy, Kelly Rowland, Joel Schumacher, Sean Avery, Gucci Westman, Brian Atwood and Jason Wu. (A dapper gatekeeper is on hand to shoo those without reservations away.) The draw? Perhaps it’s more than just the stylish scene. Boasted the maître d’ of the restaurant’s $18 hamburger, “That’s the best deal you are going to find around here.”

Vera Sean Gucci Wang Avery Westman

Jason Wu

PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER WWD, MONDAY, JULY 26, 2010 7 WWD.COM

Kelly Joel Schumacher and friends. Rowland

Francisco Costa 8 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 26, 2010 WWD.COM Accessories Report Longines’ von Känel Touts Sales Growth By Joelle Diderich one market, benefiting from strong sales not just on the Deep knowledge of local markets is another strength Mainland but also in neighboring Hong Kong, Macau of the brand. Company records show Longines shipped PARIS — To say Longines president Walter von Känel is and Taipei, where many wealthy Chinese buy their its first watch to China in 1867, and von Känel has a pol- bullish is an understatement. timepieces to avoid paying luxury tax. icy of hiring managers locally. Ask von Känel about the 2010 sales prospects for the The brand is reaping the benefits of what von Känel In China, Longines ranks as the sixth-most-searched Swiss watch brand, which he has run for 22 years, and calls Swatch Group’s “no panic motto.” Shortly after brand among 25 luxury watch labels tracked by IC- he predicts: “We’ll have the best year we ever had.” the market for luxury watches started to tank in late Agency in its annual World Watch Report. Longines Maybe the Longines president is basking in the glow 2008, Swatch said it would neither lay off staff nor shut posted the highest score in the high range category, of the French Open in Paris, which the brand, as offi- production units in reaction to the downturn. It also which also includes brands such as Baume & Mercier, cial timekeeper, has sponsored since 2007. It hosted refrained from adjusting prices in the face of curren- Ebel and Raymond Weil, the report found. 800 guests in the French capital during the tennis tour- cy fluctuations, such as the sharp devaluation of the The brand plans to continue spending heavily on ad- nament and organized a dinner at the Musée Rodin Russian ruble in early 2009. vertising and sponsorship. Von Känel jokes that while attended by past winners Swatch co-founder, the late Gustavo Kuerten and Mary Nicolas Hayek, always chided Gustavo Kuerten and Pierce, in addition to glamor- Longines president Gustavo Kuerten and him for spending too much, his Aishwarya Rai Bachchan at ous Indian actress Aishwarya Walter von Känel. Aishwarya Rai Bachchan at son Nick Hayek is urging him the Longines charity dinner. Rai Bachchan, one of its brand the Longines charity dinner. to loosen the purse strings. ambassadors. He has done just that, Most probably, von Känel is spending “millions and mil- simply reacting to the brand’s lions” over the last four May sales figures, which con- months on the French Open, firm an uninterrupted upward which represents the brand’s trajectory starting in 2003. single most important invest- As he is quick to point ment each year. In addition out, Longines and Tissot to running themed print and were the only brands within TV advertising, Longines plas- Switzerland’s Swatch Group tered the Roland Garros logo AG to register growth in 2009 on 5,000 point-of-sale displays versus 2008. and organized a tournament “Just to give an idea, be- for junior players from 15 tween ’03 and ’09, we doubled DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY countries on the sidelines of our turnover. So we are an ex- the event. ception, and the five first months of ’10 are far above “At a certain point, we have to decide: Do we ad- Longines is also active on the charity front, rais- ’09, but what is much more important, far above ’08,” just the retail price or do we work on more market ing funds for organizations founded by its ambassa- he added. share? That’s always the question we have,” said von dors and celebrity supporters. At the dinner during Though von Känel declined to provide exact figures, Känel. “We played on market share the last two years, the French Open, it presented Kuerten with a prize it is safe to assume the sales rise was above the 16.4 per- and it paid off.” and a check of $100,000 to benefit his Instituto Guga cent increase in overall Swiss watch exports registered Swatch will likely bring this philosophy to bear again Kuerten charity for disadvantaged children in his in the first four months of 2010, according to the latest this year, as it faces a steep drop in the euro, which ac- home country Brazil. data from the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry. counts for around a third of foreign currency earnings. The return on investment from an event like the French Swatch chief executive officer Nick Hayek told the “The euro will affect our bottom line, especially ver- Open is impossible to estimate, according to von Känel. annual meeting in May that Swatch Group sales in- sus Swiss francs, so we will have a couple of exchange “You can’t measure a single event. You have to mea- creased by 40 percent year-over-year in January and losses, but it will not affect our global income situation,” sure the sum of your actions, and at the end of the month, February, and were up even compared with 2008, which he said. “I can’t change what’s going on in Europe, but I I have one single criterion, and that is the bottom line,” was a record year for the company. can decide what and when, and the group policy is more he said. “For the last 10 years, the trend has been ex- Longines is going gangbusters in China, its number- market share-minded than a quick buck.” tremely positive and there is no reason that should stop.” Liberty Owners Forecast Profit by Yearend By Samantha Conti BlueGem’s 8 million pounds will be invested in IT systems, customer service and loyalty schemes, back office and merchandising. LONDON — Liberty’s new owners have pumped 8 million pounds, or $12 million, into Capello said the chief executive position has been eliminated altogether, and four the store and are expecting the business to turn a profit by the end of the current managers will run the various business divisions. Ed Burstell, who has been pro- fiscal year. moted to managing director, Liberty retail, said the store would evolve steadily under Marco Capello, managing partner at BlueGem Capital Partners LLP and Liberty’s BlueGem’s management. Burstell said the store plans to leverage its heritage prints new executive chairman, said the store’s fortunes lie in its heritage, brand name and and fabrics and its position as a unique tourist destination. current managers. The scarf room will be moved into the sunny central atrium; a Liberty prints shop During an interview at the store on Great Marlborough Street, Capello talked will be opened on the third floor, showcasing shirts initially and then other products, about his reason for buying the business, which includes the London store; Liberty and a paper room — with Liberty-branded notebooks and stationery — will open in Art Fabrics, which supplies fabrics to brands from J. Crew to Louis Vuitton, and the what is currently the scarf room. Liberty brand. “With regard to the Liberty brand, we want “So much business and industry has moved to refocus on the things we can win on: shirts, in the past decades from Europe to the Middle scarves, ties, stationery. We don’t need to be doing East and Far East,” he said. “Today, what makes handbags, footwear or jewelry. We want to gain Europe strong are its brands, its retail and its authority in each product category,” he said, add- financial services. Liberty has two out of three. ing that he wants to sell Liberty-branded products When we looked at buying it, our board members alongside other brands throughout the store. immediately said yes. It was the easiest decision Liberty will continue to pursue its collabora- we ever made.” tions. Earlier this year, the store worked with BlueGem’s other holdings include The Private Hermès on a scarf project, and from September Clinic Ltd., which specializes in cosmetic sur- through January 2011, it will collaborate with gery in the U.K.; Fintyre SpA, an Italian whole- Manolo Blahnik on a new crop of merchandise. sale tire distributor, and Management Consulting The shoe designer will be selling his own cre- Group plc, a worldwide consultancy. ations — in addition to Liberty-inspired shoes, BlueGem paid cash for Liberty plc, valuing the scarves, bow ties, and Wellington boots — in a store at 32 million pounds, or $48 million at cur- dedicated area of the store. rent exchange. Capello said the company will be Burstell said the store’s beauty area will be delisted from the AIM stock exchange. expanded to house more brands and exclusives, Capello added he expects the Liberty business while the men’s department will undergo a re- to return to profitability in the year ending Dec. fit this summer, and will get a new, stand-alone 31. Last year, the company recorded a net loss denim room and a unisex spa based around feet. of 5.2 million pounds, or $8.1 million, for the 12 “No one owns feet in London,” said Burstell. months. He said that in fiscal 2011, he expects all “We want to be the ones.” segments of the business to be turning a profit. Burstell will be working alongside Sarah Last year, Liberty’s revenues of 59.6 million Halsall, retail director; Paul Harris, finance di- pounds, or $93 million for the year, up 19.5 percent. rector, Liberty, and Kirstie Carey, managing di- Dollar figures have been calculated at average ex- A Liberty store. rector, Liberty Art Fabrics. Guy Hipwell will re- change rates for the periods to which they refer. main in charge of Liberty’s online business. WWD, MONDAY, JULY 26, 2010 9 WWDSpecialReport WWD.COM

ACCESSORIES COUNCIL AT 15 SINCE IT WAS FOUNDED IN 1995, THE ORGANIZATION HAS GROWN IN MEMBERSHIP AND SCOPE AND ITS ANNUAL ACE AWARDS HAVE DRAWN CELEBRITIES AND DESIGNERS. 10 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 26, 2010 WWD.COM WWD Special Report Sector Set to Lead Way Out of Downturn By Marc Karimzadeh FOR MORE THAN A DECADE, ‘IT’ HANDBAGS, TOWERING HEELS, luxe baubles and small leather goods dominated the retail scene — and warmed the hearts of women, brands and stores across America. But like most other fashion sectors, accessories’ runaway suc- cess came to a screeching halt in 2008 when the economy took a dramatic hit. Consumers stopped digging into their croco- dile pocketbooks and spending at retail, and merchants and vendors, faced with decreased demand and excess inventory levels, started slashing their prices and eradi- cating margins. Two years on, the economy is slowly climbing out of recession and makers of accessories said they are be- ginning to see some light through the clouds. Many feel the category is ready to lead the retail industry out of the doldrums. While there is still a long way to go before design- ers can utter the term “recovery” with confidence, there were indications of a possible turnaround in the first quar- ter of this year. According to The NPD Group Inc., the Port Washington, N.Y.-based market research firm, the accessories mar- ket has started to pick up in the first three months of this year, after declining by 10 percent in 2009. The women’s area drove the business with an increase of 20 percent, driven particularly by solid sales in handbags with an average price of $100, which account for about 46 percent of the total dollar sales in handbags. Small leather goods — particularly wallets, mobile-phone cases and wristlets — are also con- Tre glass rings at Cynthia O’Connor+Company. tinuing to be a top performer in both men’s and women’s, with sales Echo’s increasing by 9 percent in the first quarter of this year. Touch Since so many retailers had been keeping their inventories lean, they Marshal Cohen, NPD’s chief industry analyst, said acces- glove. are often searching for immediate deliveries to keep up with the unex- sories are “poised for opportunistic growth.” pected flurry of activity at the retail level. “It will be one of the leading categories to take us out of the “Seven or eight months ago, [stores] had bought their season based on recession,” Cohen said. “It offers consumers the ability to create the sales history from the year before, and they weren’t prepared when what I call ‘individual conformity.’ It’s the ability to fit in within sales picked up this year,” Chehebar said. “The good news is that stores the realm of what’s accessible, while giving it your own, personal are being more opportunistic. We are seeing a renewed interest in try- touch. Accessories have always had the ability to do that, but now ing out new things, including new display techniques. There is a nice this important aspect is really on top of consumers’ minds.” tempo in the market.” Cohen pointed to small leather goods, sunglasses and “any- Handbag designer Rebecca Minkoff said, “Last year was all about thing on the wrist” as key trend drivers in the current acces- being cautious and practical. However, our company’s strategy has re- sories field. mained constant. I think now there’s a positive feeling from our cus- “The next area is going to be the smaller-bag business,” he said. tomers that they still want more product and the worst is over. We’re “The big growth opportunity will also be multifunctional items, wheth- driving the business forward full steam, debuting new lines and an er it be backpacks, small leather goods, any kind of travel gear that does enhanced e-commerce that provides the consumers with more data more than one thing or electronics accessories.” and knowledge. Economics are a big key and the price-value ratio is Cynthia O’Connor, who heads the Cynthia O’Connor + Company mul- becoming critical.” tiline showroom in New York, noted that there has been growth in recent Minkoff said various factors are key to maintaining a healthy busi- months, driven by key items. ness in this new reality. “Costume jewelry is having a moment,” she said. “The big necklace and “We were fortunate in the sense that we have a smaller internal jewelry trend has been important to bring newness to the wardrobe. The belt team and cutbacks were not as severe as most companies,” she said. category has also come back tremendously, from a brown wrap belt to [B-low “Over the past year, we’ve been able to expand our retail presence the Belt’s] ‘Rock N Row’ studded black belt.” [nationally] and worldwide, which has been remarkable. While While conspicuous consumption may be on hi- doing so, we’ve made it a point to increase personal appearances atus for the time being, O’Connor said consumers to create a more intimate one-on-one approach with the are still spending and it’s not always about going customers. It’s important to hear their feedback in order to for mass price points, either. When they shop, create a stronger, more efficient brand. We’ve also lowered they are looking for a strong price-value relation- our best-selling products by 15 percent as a thank you for ship, she noted. their customer loyalty.” “Last year, some retailers overreacted and had Steven Roberts, president and chief executive officer of to have inexpensive things, but now they’re coming Echo Design Group, said regardless of the economy, the con- back and saying that not everything has to be in the sumer has an emotional connection with accessories. $495 and $595 range in handbags,” she said. “[It can “The consumer is much more sophisticated today,” be more expensive] as long as it’s special and there Roberts said. “They use accessories to enhance their outfits, is a price-value relationship.” express themselves and play with fashion more. They are Abe Chehebar, president and chief executive also more affordable compared to a full wardrobe.” officer at Accessory Network Group in New York, As for top items, Roberts pointed to innovations said there has been a renewed sense of interest such as the Echo Touch Glove, which allows wearers to and expectation in accessories and the sentiment use touch-sensitive devices such as iPhones and iPod is particularly noticeable in the handbags area. Touches without taking off their gloves. “Overall, we have been seeing positive re- He acknowledged there are still challenges during actions by the consumer, more so than the past this tough economic period and said, “You have to be couple of years,” said Chehebar, whose roster of even more focused and better at what you do. The notion accessories offerings includes LeSportsac, Ghurka, Bebe, of providing perceived value is that much more intense. I Izod and Karl Lagerfeld. “We are also seeing a lot of newness in the A Rebecca think it’s very critical for products and for brands that you market that customers are responding to nicely.” Minkoff bag. provide more, and the consumer is looking for more.”

3 ON THE COVER: (1) Balenciaga, spring 2008; 1 (2) Francisco Costa with Ashley and Mary- 2 4 Kate Olsen, 2005; (3) Pucci, fall 2008; (4) Oscar de la Renta and Jessica Simpson, IN THE BAG 8 2005; (5) Kim Cattrall, Helen Gurley Brown Department and national chain stores’ price performance and distribution for women’s 5 6 7 10 and Sheila Block, 2004; (6) Coach, spring handbags and totes including messenger /cross-body styles. 2003; (7) Lady Gaga, 2009; (8) Valentino, spring 2007; (9) Bridget Moynahan, 2006; Price Dollar Volume Dollar Volume 9 (10) Bottega Veneta, spring 2010; (11) Marc Range 3 Months Ending May ’10 3 Months Ending May ’09 Change 11 Jacobs, spring 2007; (12) Betsey Johnson, 12 2005; (13) DVF, spring 2010; (14) Marc $0-$199.99 $578.5 million $536.1 million 8% Jacobs, 2007; (15) Jimmy Choo, fall 2008; 13 14 $200-$399.99 $378.9 million $342.1 million 11% 19 16 (16) Marc Anthony and Jennifer Lopez, 2006; 15 (17) Mandy Moore, 2007; (18) Balenciaga, $200-$399.99 $121 million $130.7 million -7% 17 fall 2008; (19) Michael Kors, spring 2006; $400+ $78.7 million $63.2 million 24% 21 24 (20) Michael Kors and Jane Krakowski, 18 22 2006; (21) Rachel Zoe, 2006; (22) Joan SOURCE: THE NPD GROUP/RETAIL TRACKING SERVICE 20 23 Rivers, 1997; (23) Sean “Diddy” Combs, 2005; (24) Balenciaga, spring 2008. Our Best Accessory is YOU.

Congratulations to the Accessories Council on 15 years of success.

We thank you for your support and contributions to the accessories industry over the last 15 years.

www.accessorynetwork.com 12 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 26, 2010

WWD Special Report Putting the Accen Lady Gaga and Eartha Kitt Kim Cattrall Marc Jacobs in 2003. in 2004. at the ACE Awards in 2009.

Chloë Sevigny and Nicolas Ghesquière in 2008.

Kathie Lee & Frank Gifford in 1998.

By Lauren Benet Stephenson cacy helped to increase the exposure of the accessories sector. Ten years later, in 2006, WWD reported an upswing in accessories licenses, as well as integration into NEW YORK — The Accessories Council, which began as a small trade organization to rtw presentations. give voice to the needs of an overlooked retail sector, has ma- Michael Kors said, “American ready-to-wear designers have tured into a vital supporter and player in the fashion industry. always treated accessories as a stepchild…but at the end of the It’s annual Accessories Council Excellence Awards have be- Karen day it’s the Europeans who really base their business on ac- come a high-profile celebration of the sector and its advocacy Giberson cessories.” In the same article, Donna Karan said, “I definitely has become a welcome component, linking brands, retailers plan to show accessories on the runway because this is how and consumers. you communicate the totality of the lifestyle to the press and The council was founded 15 years ago by Joel Pinksy of ultimately the consumer.” Omega, Reenie Brown, founder of the Fashion Accessories The crescendo of accessories integration and market Benefit Ball and Andy Philip of Philip Associates, with prin- share continued into 2008, while the apparel industry was in cipals from 18 vendors and two retailers — in an effort to in- the depths of the recession. The NPD Group reported at the crease consumer awareness of the accessories categories. time: “In last year’s fourth quarter, accessories was the rev- “We hope the Accessories Council will be a significant driv- enue leader, generating a 32 percent share of department store ing force in the expansion of this profitable and high-margin sales, while apparel was 29 percent…. Jewelry and handbags business,” said Barbara Khouri, executive director of the also dominated third-quarter accessories dollar share at 52 council at its inception. “We’d also like to mesh together a frag- and 19 percent, respectively. In jewelry, watches led at 21 of mented industry into a powerful consumer-oriented force.” the 52 percent total.” At the time, accessories executives faced a momentous task, The Accessories Council’s work is hardly done, however, as minimalist fashions were en vogue and accessories lacked and in the last five years Giberson and her staff of one — significant representation on the runways or in magazines. Deborah Miliotto, the council’s event manager — have signifi- “Think about our world 15 years ago,” said Karen Giberson, cantly increased the scope of the once “teeny trade group.” the current council president. “There were not as many brands The council now regularly features educational seminars and and licenses, runways were void of accessories…it was the lectures, networking events and even discounts on advertising height of minimalism. The accessories industry said, ‘OK guys, for members. if ready-to-wear isn’t going to do the whole outfit [including ac- “In the last five years, we’ve gone from about four events a cessories], we need to come up with ways to access the con- year to one event a month,” said Giberson. “We’re always look- sumer at their level.” ing to up the ante on the quality of speakers and events that An article published in WWD in 1996, entitled “Executives we have.” Explore Minimalism’s Impact,” described the council’s first Giberson began her tenure with the Accessories Council at breakfast seminar. David Wolfe, creative director at The its launch in 1995. She remembers, “I read an article in WWD Doneger Group and panelist, said, “To make sure minimalism mentioning that this was starting and I thought ‘This sounds is overcome…the accessories industry must get to the fash- really exciting.’” Co-founder Pinksy approached Giberson as ion stylists and editors.” The topic was debated at length, and well, and said, “‘I’d love to have you involved,’ and from that Wolfe also added, “I think that the next big trend might even be maximalism.” moment on, I’ve been involved,” she recounted. He wasn’t far off, and changing fashions coupled with the council’s dogged advo- Giberson became the council’s first secretary and next was a chairman for 10 years WWD, MONDAY, JULY 26, 2010 13 WWD.COM nt on Accessories Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen in 2005. What They Said LADY GAGA ISN’T THE ONLY ENTERTAINER who has turned out the quips for an ACE Awards ceremony with her comment about condoms being her favorite accessory. The event has a lengthy his- tory of amateur comedians trying out their material: 1997: Joan Rivers, the only actual comic to re- WHITKO PHOTOGRAPHY WHITKO ceive an ACE award, said, “To get this award for doing something you love is like getting an award for sleeping with Mel Gibson.” (One has to be cu- rious if she’d still feel the same affection for this controversial leading man today.) 1998: Kathie Lee Gifford, referring to her battle with her signature clothing label’s sweatshop al- legations, declared the evening, “so much more fun than testifying before Congress.” 2003: Eartha Kitt appealed to the accessories executives and designers in the crowd when she said: “It’s always been difficult to find something to accessorize with….All of you who are acces- sorizing will have to help. I am in the Eugene O’Neill Theater. I expect something within the next week.”

/PMC; OLSENS BY DIMITRIOS KAMBOURIS; SEVIGNY AND GHESQUIERE BY DIMITRIOS KAMBOURIS; SEVIGNY AND GHESQUIERE BY /PMC; OLSENS BY 2004: Kim Cattrall took a typically saucy ap- proach and said her favorite accessory was “a man and preferably more than one.” 2005: Betsey Johnson was characteristically unin- hibited when she accepted her award and declared, “I’ve been waiting my whole life for this award…. What do I have to be, a hundred [to get noticed]?” 2006: Amy Gross, editor in chief of O, The Oprah Magazine, asserted, “Accessories are the most fun you can have with your clothes on.” 2008: Chloë Sevigny presented Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière the Designer of the Year award and described her experience in Balenciaga heels: “They must have been five For more on the inches high…and I never felt more powerful Accessories Council, see Joan Rivers walking down the street — that is, until the pave- WWD.com/market-news. in 1997. ment met my face and I went down in them.” JACOBS AND GAGA PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER; CATRALL BY BILLY FARRELL BILLY BY STEVE EICHNER; CATRALL JACOBS AND GAGA PHOTO BY

until in 2005, when she became president. Giberson ended up staying in the position A more auspicious program will be unveiled outside of social media, that stresses far longer than she expected (“I thought I’d do it for a couple months”) and this month face-to-face socializing. The initiative is a mentorship program aptly named FACE marks her five-year anniversary. She credits her diverse but accessories-focused (Future Accessories Council Executive) and launches this fall. FACE was created to background with helping her to empathize with all the council’s members needs. “pair up some of our seasoned executives with the next wave of talent, to get them “Having started as a merchant, working in a number of networking and get them active in our organization in the roles, I feel like I can understand where our different mem- industry earlier,” said Giberson. bers are coming from,” she said, noting her time working as The organization also runs a host of educational pro- a buyer at Macy’s and, more recently, as a buyer and direc- grams and competitions with the Fashion Institute of tor of event marketing at QVC. 2010 WINNERS Technology and LIM College, and has it’s own job site called The Accessories Council is also governed by a board that “Talent Source.” meets seven times a year. There are currently 127 members This year’s ACE awards will take place on The real diamond pendant among the council’s string of the council, ranging from established players like Kate Nov. 1. Here are some of the winners: of offerings is the Accessories Council Excellence Awards. Spade and Coach Inc. to relative newcomers like Alexis The ACE Awards recognize individuals for their contribu- Bittar and Loeffler Randall. The membership fee is scaled MARIA SHARAPOVA AND COLE HAAN: tions to consumer awareness and use of accessories. The based on a company’s annual volume, ranging from $500 to Brand Collaboration event has grown from a trade function with standout guests $2,000 annually. like Kathie Lee Gifford and Joan Rivers to a must-attend ce- Giberson estimates about 20 companies join every RACHEL RACHEL ROY FOR MACY’S: Brand lebrity function for anyone and everyone in fashion, music year, though current members don’t necessarily continue Launch of the Year and film. The award categories have evolved, as well — in through to following years, as they “evolve,” get acquired or 1997 and 1998 a single ACE Award was presented — to the relinquish their membership. AL BERG: Business Visionary current incarnation, which boasts 11 categories, including Aware of the recession’s impact on finances, Giberson ALBER ELBAZ: Designer of the Year Designer of the Year, Retailer of the Year, Humanitarian of has been particularly anxious to ensure the council pro- the Year and Fashion Icon. vides precisely what its members need. NET-A-PORTER: E-tailer of the Year The 2009 ceremony awarded Tomas Maier of Bottega “We stepped up everything because people are scruti- Veneta with Designer of the Year and Burberry with Brand nizing every membership,” she said. “[They’re asking,] ‘Is TIFFANY & CO.: Hall of Fame. of the Year. The evening also featured an eccentric perfor- this organization relevant to my company?’ And we want mance by anointed “Stylemaker” Lady Gaga, who insisted, to make sure we’re listening to our members and giving LAUREN BUSH: Humanitarian Award “the most important fashion accessory is a condom.” them enough.” KIM HASTREITER: Marylou Luther Award Beyond the glitz and glamour of this headlining event, To that end, the council has initiated a host of new the Accessories Council’s most essential offering is the programs, beginning with a few social media ventures. for Fashion Journalism day-to-day networking for which it provides a platform. The organization’s new blog (accessoriescouncil.org/ HENRI BENDEL: Retailer of the Year Upcoming events include a picnic in the park, a law seminar blog) posts the council’s latest developments and news, on social media, a book release event and a trend presenta- as does its newly launched Twitter account (twitter.com/ tion. Citing a get-together where Kenneth Jay Lane connect- accessorynews). ed with a Mundi executive with whom he ended up signing a “We figure, we want to increase consumer awareness, and the whole scope of so- licensing deal, Giberson said, “It’s a disjointed industry and we give people a chance cial media has become more important…so we’re doing what we can do, directly,” to talk. These people often don’t step out of their showroom…it’s an opportunity to get Giberson explained. people together and talking.” 14 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 26, 2010 WWD.COM WWD Special Report

Brands from cities across the globe are growing their businesses Around the World in a variety of ways. those of the designers and will be ASTLEY CLARKE’S CYBER STONES priced similar to them, depending Salvaged LONDON — Bec Astley Clarke built her online on materials. The AC Diamonds ebony and fine jewelry business by exposing niche de- collection ranges from 695 pounds, pigskin signers from around the world to an interna- or $1,056, for a heart pendant to harness tional audience. 5,995 pounds, or $9,112, for a necklace. Now she’s becoming one of them herself. white gold and round-cut The founder of AstleyClarke.com, the diamond solitaire ring. London-based site that sells jewelry from more Among the new collec- than 50 designers, including Shaun Leane, tions are AC Silhouettes, Pippa Small and Carolina Bucci, is launching which features jewelry a series of signature collections. From now basics in 18-karat gold through November, Astley Clarke plans to and sterling silver, all of roll out 14 new collections she believes which can be engraved; will fill in gaps left by her designers. Takara, which showcases “We know what our customers are Rings from micro pavé gemstones and 18- looking for and last thing we want to Astley karat white, yellow and rose gold, do is compete with our own designers,” Clarke. and AC Colour, which offers ban- Astley Clarke, who founded the company gles in sterling silver and enamel in 2006, said in a phone interview. “One with semiprecious stones set in 18- of the collections we’re doing is ‘staples karat gold vermeil. for the jewelry box.’ Most designers have Clarke said she’s hoping the in- an iconic look, they don’t want to do a silver- house collections will eventually stud earring. Now, on the site, all of your jew- account for 20 percent of overall elry questions are answered.” sales at the site. Although AstleyClarke.com launched when online As for the online, fine jewelry shopper, Astley Clarke fine jewelry was just beginning to develop a following, said they are much more savvy these days. the site rapidly garnered attention and celebrity cli- “Our customers have built up a certain trust,” she ents. It was always service-oriented, offering same-day said. “In the beginning, they bought entry-price items. delivery in central London and free returns. But then they saw the service they were getting, and Nicole Kidman ordered Carolina Bucci sparkle gold they came back and invested more.” A NOVEL NEEDLE bangles when she was shooting the film “The Golden — Samantha Conti Compass” in the winter of 2006. Former British Prime NEW YORK — Walk along Orchard Street in Minister Gordon Brown and his wife, Sarah, are regu- Manhattan too quickly and one could miss Occulter, lar customers. For more on store openings and brand a sliver of a store at No. 83 1/2. The new in-house collections will be sold alongside expansions, see WWD.com/market-news. That would be a shame because the 100-square- foot shop, which bowed this month on the Lower East Side, features highly unusual jewelry and objects. A bag from the Derrick Cruz, who has a degree in painting ROSEARK GETS BEACHY new collection. from East Carolina University, shapes rare natu- LOS ANGELES — Roseark, the West Hollywood jew- ral or repurposed materials such as vintage ivory elry emporium and art gallery owned by designers piano keys, mammoth fossil ivory and horse hair Rick and Kathy Rose, has expanded its presence by into necklaces and bracelets for the company he opening a 750-square-foot store on Santa Monica’s founded, Black Sheep & Prodigal Sons. Occulter Montana Avenue that showcases a selection of pieces sells Black Sheep merchandise and items specially edited for the beach lifestyle. designed for the store. The boutique features colorful pendants, Cruz, who uses endangered technologies and chunky rings and smaller, more delicate every- traditions to craft his work, won the 2007 Gen Art day pieces. Lines include Bardot, Andra Neen, Styles Design Vision Award for Accessories and was Happy in Surf, Lauren Wolf, Ludevine, Jodi Guber, a semifinalist for the 2009 Ecco Domani Fashion Jennifer Meyer, Gin Tare, Ann Dexter-Jones, Foundation Award. Stormy and Ana de Costa. As for the name Occulter, Cruz said its a bit “We live near the beach and so do many of our cli- misleading. “Occulter sounds like the occult,” he ents, so it was a natural choice to open here,” said said. “An occult is a large shield that goes over Kathy Rose, who designs a sterling silver signature a large telescope. We were inspired by ancient collection, as well as the higher end Roseark line. astronomers.” The brightly lit store contains the same antique wood The store holds plenty of mystery, nonetheless. cases and display tables as the West Hollywood bun- Cruz is obsessed with the potential beauty found galow and is also sprinkled with art by Alison Van in darkness and also finds inspiration in funerary Pelt, Laura Bell and Robbie Conal and ready-to-wear FURLA’S NEW FAIRY TALE crafts, alchemical studies and Native American pieces by Capstone Couture. MILAN — Furla is introducing another collection mythology. — Marcy Medina designed by Leitmotiv brimming with fairy-tale “One thing that led me to take the route I did imagery. was the idea of making very personal objects and This time, Leitmotiv’s Fabio Sasso and things that are hard to replicate by a machine,” he Juan Caro are drawn into the Land of Oz and said. “We want to make things that prove that the Dorothy’s enchanted journey. The Leitmotiv human hand is more capable than a machine. We for Furla Talent Hub collection will bow during find materials that are scarce and salvaged and Fashion’s Night Out in September. The design- would make no sense for mass production because ing duo, who last year played with the “Alice in the irregularity of everything. When you create Wonderland” theme, created several printed things with unusual materials there’s this child- images depicting Dorothy clearly donning her like moment that occurs. When you present some- staple red shoes, the Tin Man, the Scarecrow one with something like this, the recipient has a A Roseark and the Wizard surrounded by oversize colorful sense of wonder.” rosebud cuff. flower patterns. Among the most novel objects are an 18-karat The line includes elegant clutch bags and gold honeycomb pendant on a fine gold chain at classic totes, soft shoppers, backpacks and an $2,000 is both a conversation piece and political anorak that can be folded into a pouch. All bags statement inspired by the alarming disappearance are made of canvas treated with a special wax- of honeybees, a horse hair bangle bracelet with ing process that makes them polished and water- leather at $385 and a golden jaw that is a replica of proof. a large human jaw that’s made of 24-karat gold over Also available are small accessories such as solid brass with a natural black diamond at $2,400 umbrellas and gumboots featuring allover or and can be used as an ashtray or to hold small ob- placement prints. jects. Cruz also does scrimshaw on ivory for pen- Leitmotiv for Furla Talent Hub will be avail- dants that start at $1,000. able with dedicated windows in all Furla flag- Cruz plans to introduce new collections and col- ships, as well as multibrand specialty and de- laborations with other eclectic New York talents, partment stores around the world. Retail prices starting with Bryan Collins, who created the album for bags range from $245 to $345. cover design for School of Seven Bells. — Alberto Zacchini — Sharon Edelson Congratulations to The Accessories Council

Our heartiest congratulations and deepest appreciation for 15 years of success in making fashion accessories top-of-mind among consumers. May your important mission continue to raise awareness and demand for accessories to the benefi t of all.

183 Madison Ave. | New York, NY | 212. 779. 5900 15 years of adding the finishing touches to any outfit

Congratulations to the ACCESSORIES COUNCIL

from your friends at WWD, MONDAY, JULY 26, 2010 17 WWD.COM De Beers Returns to Black By Samantha Conti Overall sales rose 74.1 percent to $2.98 billion from $1.71 billion. Sales of rough diamonds at the LONDON — The world’s diamantaires have begun Diamond Trading Company, the marketing arm of rebuilding their rough diamond inventories and De Beers, rose 85.7 percent to $2.60 billion from driving prices back to 2008 prerecession levels, $1.40 billion. De Beers said in reporting a 74.1 percent rise in De Beers also said company veteran Gareth sales and a return to profitability in the first half. Penny would step down later this year after five De Beers Societe Anonyme said Friday it was years as chief executive officer. A search is on for looking to the second half with “caution and mea- his successor, with chief financial officer Stuart sured optimism.” It said with most of this year’s Brown and chief commercial officer Bruce Cleaver rough diamond restocking largely completed, any serving as acting joint ceo’s in the interim. further growth would come from consumer demand. Nicky Oppenheimer, chairman of De Beers The diamond company said there was double- Group, said the company’s decision to cut costs digit growth in consumer demand in China and and tighten operations and “take short-term pain India in the first half, and those markets were for long-term gain” was paying off. showing no signs of flagging. “With renewed demand driving significant in- A De Beers spokeswoman in London said creases in production, prices and sales, we are overall there had been “a marked improvement” now focused on securing the recovery while insu- in consumer confidence since last year and a lating the business from further market volatility,” “noticeable improvement” in demand from the he said. U.S. market. De Beers Diamond Jewelers, the retail joint venture with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, witnessed a “healthy rebound,” according to the company, and a clutch of new collections is set to be unveiled in September. The spokeswoman said Forevermark, the premium dia- mond brand De Beers is sell- ing through 289 doors in China, Hong Kong and Japan, has rung up retail sales of $150 million since the launch in 2008. The brand has plans to expand fur- ther in Mainland China, where it is present in 10 cities. With regard to rolling out Forevermark globally, the spokeswoman said De Beers is “making the first steps to assess the U.S. market,” and a number of other key markets, although no launch dates have been set. In the six months to June 30, De Beers profits rose to $348 million, compared with a $6 million loss in the cor- responding period last year. In 2009, the company reduced its cost base by 45 percent and staffing levels by 25 percent as part of a draconian efficiency drive in the wake of the global financial crisis. Wolford Profits Jump 106.1% In Fiscal 2010 By Emilie Marsh PARIS — Wolford AG more than doubled operating profits in fiscal 2010 after implementing cost-reduction and efficiency- enhancing measures. For the full year ended April 30, the Austrian innerwear and legwear firm reported operating profits soared 106.1 percent to 4.5 million euros, or $6.4 million. Dollar figures are converted at average exchange for the period. “[It] demonstrates that we are not only capable of surviv- Pavé Luxe Collection ing crisis situations, but emerge strengthened from them,” stated Brilliant new Micro Pavé Cubic Zirconia Sterling Silver finished in Pure Platinum Holger Dahmen, chief executive officer of Wolford. Company sales for the year Please visit us at Accessorie Circuit, August 1–3, Booth # 8214 at the Jacob Javits Center, NYC slid 2.2 percent to 144 million euros, or $203.9 million. But Wolford noted a progression in 1 800 4CRISLU WWW.CRISLU.COM revenues as the year advanced. In its fourth quarter, sales rose 8.7 percent. 18 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 26, 2010 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Mode City Overshadows Market Check-in at the Mode City show. By Karyn Monget MOVED AHEAD BY TWO MONTHS, THE 2011 SCHEDULE FOR THE MODE CITY and Interfi lière trade fairs at the Porte de Versailles in Paris is causing concern among U.S. manufacturers. Eurovet, the Paris-based trade show organizer, said in mid-June that it scheduled earlier dates for its lingerie, swimwear and textiles venues because of “popular de- mand.” Next year’s show is slated for July 9 to 11, a major change from the Labor Day weekend format in September AUGUST that industry executives have been attending for 26 years. This year’s edition is to run Sept. 4 to 6 in the same location. MARKET Marie-Laure Bellon-Homps, chief executive offi cer of Eurovet, said the company made the decision based on de- mands from major American retailers and suppliers. TRENDS The big complaint is the timing means the show will be • Lounge pieces in easy,

staged before the August market in New York, which will in- modern knits such EMMANUEL NGUYEN NGOC PHOTO BY crease pressure for shorter lead times for product development, as jerseys and Modal sourcing, manufacturing, design and merchandising. August is Sizing up the opinion of the market, Martha Olson, president of Calvin Klein among the most important markets along with November. blends. Underwear in the U.S. and core brands at The Warnaco Group, said, “Our over- Additionally, U.S. innerwear companies — which pro- all assessment of the change from September to July is not positive. In the U.S., duce four seasonal collections a year as opposed to two an- • Ready-to-wear-inspired we have August market preparations during July. Additionally, this is not the nual collections by their European counterparts — will have shapers that can be ideal timing for trend shopping as it is end of season.” little time to travel in July as they prepare for the August worn out like tanks, The Mode City 2011 schedule is “really not great for this [New York] mar- market. And the time frame will be too early to receive in- camis and leggings. ket,” said Roseann Beutell, manager of Invista Inc.’s intimates business for formation from stores on fall receipts and key items, which North America. would be available in September. • Bohemian prints. “People are not pleased and it’s causing a great deal of discussion. We’re a “For fi ve years, people have been asking us to make a year out and nobody knows how they will handle this. It’s a real dilemma and I change. It is a big change, but it is happening because of the • Pretty, lingerie-looking think there will be chaos,” Beutell said. demand from big stores such as Victoria’s Secret and The Guido Campello, vice president of branding and innovation at Cosabella, Gap, as well as 42 percent of textile companies who told me nonwire bras. said, “Everybody is a little bit in shock, but we’re OK with it because July is September was too late for the Interfi lière,” said Bellon- a very good selling time for our reps in Italy and Germany. But I do think the Homps. She added that swimwear brands “prefer July be- Europeans scheduled this show to command orders fi rst.” cause they feel September is too late for them to show new collections. Some executives said they will cut travel to Paris. “I understand the American vendors’ standpoint, but we don’t have a lot of Debby Long, president of Bifl ex Intimates Group, said, “I know this is not going to American exhibitors at this show. We made the announcement a year in advance so work for us next July. We will not be going. I’ve been attending this show for 15 years. they can organize their plans,” said Bellon-Homps. But you have to make choices.” The transition is expected to be a main topic of discussion at next week’s market From a designer’s perspective, Flora Nikrooz, designer of her eponymous sleep- [Aug. 2 to 6], where vendors and retailers will digest the potential opportunities and wear collection at Age Group, described the transition as “very unfortunate.” ramifi cations of the new calender. “I rely heavily on the Interfi lière show for researching new trims and raw materials, but there will be no time in July for my new developments to have an impact for spring 2011, and I will not have any retail information from fall business at my disposal to make the most informed decisions. While I understand the decision to move the show makes sense for the European market, I do feel that this move will marginalize the impor- tance of the Paris show for the rest of the global market,” said Nikrooz. Retailers, manufacturers, designers, merchandisers and mills scour the European marketplace in search of major trends at de- partment stores and boutiques, particularly in September. “The dates may have been changed by popular demand, but it probably was by demand from the French and European market- place, because everyone goes on vacation in August,” said Michael Rabinowitz, ceo of Le Mystère. “September is a very important time in France, a time when there is freshness and newness in fashion. But there is no newness in July.” WWD, MONDAY, JULY 26, 2010 19 WWD.COM Etiqueta Negra to Open Men’s Store in Florida

By Jean E. Palmieri A rendering of the Florida store. ETIQUETA NEGRA, THE HIGH-END ARGENTINE fashion brand, will open its second U.S. store — a men’s-only unit — in South Florida next month. The 3,000-square-foot boutique in the Aventura Mall in Aventura, Fla., will be the company’s 12th store. A two-level, 6,000-square-foot unit opened at 273 Lafayette Street in New York’s SoHo in April. President Federico Alvarez Castillo WWD said the location of the newest unit “was a natural choice” for a brand es- Men s tablished in South America. ’ The shop will include a storefront showcasing a classic 1924 Bugatti T3 framed by vintage luggage trunks collected from around the world. Dark wood paneling and black-and-white photo- graphs illuminated by vintage-style cinematic lighting will offset the chocolate color palette, which is intended to evoke Argentine history and the masculinity of the clothes and accessories. The brand, whose name means black label, special- izes in modern basics such as Pima cotton distressed T-shirts ($32 retail), Argentine leather jackets ($700-

Collection will feature casual jackets, sweaters, T-shirts and jeans in white, black and dark gray with the brand’s Etiqueta Negra started as a fashion house for men and then eventually trademark yellow accent. “ “I’ve had a passion for classic automobiles since expanded to include a women’s collection as the company grew. I was a child and am an avid car collector,” said Alvarez Castillo, who has one of the largest collec- — Frederico Alvarez Castillo, Etiqueta” Negra tions in the world. “This appreciation for beautiful cars has played a central role in the design and aes- thetic of Etiqueta Negra as a brand, from the cam- $1,400), cotton zip-up sweaters ($85), Italian dress shirts wanted to lead with in Miami. Etiqueta Negra started as paign imagery to the boutique décor. It was only ap- ($180), cotton button-downs ($80), cotton blazers ($250) a fashion house for men and then eventually expanded propriate to integrate the vehicles into the design of and jeans ($145). to include a women’s collection as the company grew. the clothes themselves.” Alvarez Castillo said men’s wear, which accounts for This is the same strategy we plan to use in Aventura.” Alvarez Castillo said the company wants to keep ex- 70 percent of the company’s mix, “is really the founda- The store will mark the debut of a line inspired panding in the U.S. but has no immediate plans for an- tion and the core of our business, so that is what we by classic automobiles. The nine-piece Classic Car other store. 20 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 26, 2010

Power to the People

Continued from page one “Bloomingdale’s looked at the Keds-Whitney col- 1,800 products on its site, so Be the Buyer is a small And in a fashion democracy that already is accel- laboration as the perfect opportunity to bring both art part of the mix. erating at an alarming rate, ultimately anyone could and fashion to our customers while benefi ting a good “We are defi nitely seeing a higher sell-through rate,” be a designer, creator or manufacturer, with profound cause,” said Anne Keating, Bloomingdale’s senior vice said chief creative offi cer and founder Susan Gregg implications for the structure of the fashion and re- president of public relations. Koger. Since the program launched, along with a new tail worlds, as well as the overall economy. Analysts The windows proved a hit. checkout process, overall site traffi c and conversion estimate that crowd-sourced and customized products “Bloomingdale’s was selling the collection before rates have increased. “We see users that participate in could eventually make up as much as 10 percent of the the interactive Keds-Whitney windows were installed,” Be the Buyer spend more time on the site and spend total market for apparel, accessories and footwear. said Francine Klein, executive vice president and gen- more on the site,” she said. “If you make the technology and tools accessible eral merchandise manager for fashion accessories at Each item has garnered an average of 3,625 votes to large enough numbers of people, you have the pos- the store, adding that once they went up, traffi c and sell- and 114 comments. Twelve percent of registered visitors sibilities of new industries evolving and the balance throughs got even stronger. have participated in the program. of power shifting,” said Stephen Fraser, co-founder At the opposite end of the spectrum, retailer “Most of the times my picks coincide with customers’ of Spoonfl ower, which custom prints fabric by the ModCloth, which turned over $19 million last year picks, that’s part of why we’ve been successful as a tra- yard. “The textile industry — and the same is true of selling inexpensive vintage-inspired clothing online, ditional retailer. But there are some that surprised me, the apparel industry and the craft fabric industry — is crowdsourcing its buying with its Be the Buyer pro- some that I thought would have performed better or oth- their whole bread and butter for decades has been gram. Anyone can vote and comment on a sample, and ers that I thought will get a decent reaction and actually trying to predict what people will want. There’s a the ones that garner the most votes will be put into pro- got a great reaction,” said Gregg Koger. huge apparatus for selecting what’s going to be popu- duction and sold on the site. As the company learns more, it plans to involve more lar. [Our business] is really different from the tradi- Each sample is posted online for about two weeks designers. Future iterations will let shoppers give much tional product marketing and manufacturing mental- so people can vote on it. At the end of two weeks, more specifi c feedback. In the future, not all votes will ity, where you’re trying to fi gure out what people are ModCloth looks at the results, contacts the designer to be equal. A vote from a customer who has been to the going to want and creating a demand for whatever confi rm they still have the fabric, then places an order. site many times and placed multiple orders will count product you’ve developed.” Many of the items are manufactured locally and arrive more than a vote from a new visitor. The new businesses borrow elements from crowd- in two or three weeks, but some are imported and can So far, dresses, longer lengths, and interesting prints sourcing, mass customization and group buying or sim- take up to 10 weeks. Online, the status of the sample is are doing well, she said. ply exploit the Internet’s capacity for assembling ad hoc changed, so it says “you picked it” and “coming soon.” The company recently received $19.8 million in groups of people around a common interest or purpose, Customers can sign up to receive an e-mail when the venture funding and moved its headquarters from no matter how fl eeting. item is available for sale. Pittsburgh to San Francisco. It plans to add more social- Bloomingdale’s is highlighting the idea of creativ- Since the experiment went up late last year, commerce innovations in the future. ity, community and customization in a summer and fall ModCloth has posted close to 300 samples online and “We want to continue to blur the lines between de- campaign, even if the majority of what it sells is tradi- produced 50 of them. The online store has more than signers, consumers and producers, and we want to tional product. continue to connect our customers to independent Last week, the retailer promoted a collabora- designers,” said Gregg Koger. “Our goal is to fun- tion with Keds and the Whitney Museum in the damentally change the supply chain. We think with windows of the 59th Street fl agship. Customers the Internet, we don’t have to make all these deci- could design their own custom Keds 24 hours a day TRENDS REMAKE DESIGN sions and commit to big buys up front without get- through the Bloomingdale’s store windows, two of • Crowdsourcing: While defi nitions are controversial, ting customer feedback. Getting the customer truly which acted as a giant touch screen. involved with this process is important. From a During store hours, three M.F.A. student artists, generally it means using the many-to-many social user perspective, being a fashion buyer is a dream who won a contest judged by the three partners, possibilities of the Web to create something or solve a job and hard to get. Historically, the industry has painted canvases in the store windows. Their work problem. Examples could include open-source software, been hard to get into — people must spend years will be shown at a series of events through the sum- news aggregation site Digg and Wikipedia. being an assistant — so being able to give custom- mer. A live Webcam broadcast video of the windows ers the power to make these types of buying de- at the event blog at theoriginalsneaker.com/whit- • Mass customization: Levi’s, Selve, Timberland, Kenneth Cole cisions and affect what items get made and affect ney. Visitors who “checked in” at the windows on and Lori Coulter Swimwear are some of the companies that fashion is defi nitely really exciting, and I think it’s Foursquare got special offers, such as a two-for-one have used technology and factory production rather than going to shift the industry.” ticket to the Whitney. When customers feel like the company under- Meanwhile, in the store and online, traditional craftsmanship to produce a custom product at a stands them and they can voice their opinions Bloomingdale’s is selling a premium Americana- popular price. and the company acts on it, they can become and vintage-inspired collection of Keds sneak- fi ercely loyal. ers as well as an exclusive line designed by art- • Desktop manufacturing: Digital printers can create three- “ModCloth is helping to change the way peo- ist Jenny Holzer. Two more lines by artists Laura dimensional objects such as eyeglasses, jewelry and ple shop in the same way that Facebook changed Owens and Sarah Crowner will make their debuts electronics by fusing layers of plastic or metal. the way we communicate,” said Theresia Gouw in September. All the merchandise is also available Ranzetta, a partner with ModCloth investor Accel, on keds.com, and all profi ts from the artist editions when the Web site revealed its funding. “In a very will be donated to the Whitney. short period of time and with little outside capital, WWD, MONDAY, JULY 26, 2010 21 WWD.COM

the company has leveraged the social Web to empower a reality show about diving. The company is producing Much as Internet celebrities have emerged from a wildly loyal and engaged customer base.” about 600 shorts a month, said William Cawley, ceo and YouTube and fashion blogging, so Spoonfl ower has cre- “Consumers love it,” said Marshal Cohen, chief in- creative director of Anymatic. ated successful fabric designers. One of the early win- dustry analyst at The NPD Group, referring to custom One of the key players in the crowdsourcing world ners of a contest, Laurie Wisbrun of Etsy shop Scarlet and crowdsourced products. But “it’s got to be quick is Spoonfl ower, located in Mebane, N.C., physically Fig, has been picked up by fabric manufacturer Robert and easy for the consumer to execute.” and metaphorically halfway between the old textile Kaufman. Not a formally trained artist, she previously These new offerings play into a bigger trend among manufacturing center of Greensboro and the new-tech- worked in advertising and marketing. young people he calls “distinctive conformity.” They nology economy of Raleigh. Opened in October 2008, “There is this vast fi ltering mechanism going on, it’s want to wear something no one else has, but they also Spoonfl ower has prospered, thanks to weekly design big enough to be an ecosystem. Certain talented individ- don’t want to be laughed at, he said. contests, a passionate DIY craft community and a site uals get pushed up, and we as a culture get the benefi t It’s important for brands to recognize that the person that makes it easy to fi nd styles and designers. Anyone of fi nding out about them. Otherwise, we would never who creates a custom product may not be typical of the can design, order and sell custom-printed fabric by up- have known about them, and they would never have total population, but personalization is a way to create loading a digital image and specifying the repeat style. been discovered,” said Fraser. loyalty and brand awareness. Designers earn 10 percent if someone else orders a fab- The company uses large-format digital printers that “Customization in the form of personalization is criti- ric they have designed. have been altered to print pigments on fabric rather cal in being able to take the brand to the next level,” The site now has about 125,000 users and offers than paper. The digital textile production process is the Cohen said. “This is where brand loyalty is heading. It’s about 200,000 designs, said Spoonfl ower’s Fraser, who opposite of mass manufacturing. There are no set-up a very small part of the business, but a very signifi cant heads up operations and marketing. The company pro- costs to print a pattern, as there is with rotary-screen part of the business.” duces more than 2,000 yards of fabric a week. More than printing, but the process is very slow: four to fi ve yards To that end, designers and their followers have 50 percent of Spoonfl ower users are making fabric to an hour versus hundreds of yards a minute. been using the Internet to arrange special editions. sell, often to create unique products such as pillows and Fraser and co-founder Gart Davis met while working For example, accessories designer Rebecca at nearby Lulu.com, a similar company that digi- Minkoff has been responding to requests, creat- tally prints books on demand. Spoonfl ower now ing exclusives and holding parties for various has 12 employees. It does not reveal revenues, but fashion communities such as the Purse Blog. it is profi table, according to Fraser. When a blog or community picks up on an exclu- CROWDSOURCED WORLD While producing things one at a time is more sive bag, photos and comments can proliferate • Inkd.com, crowdspring, 99designs: Graphic design expensive and not as effi cient as mass manufac- online and reach a larger group of people. If a • Ryz, NikeID, Keds: Sneakers turing, it nonetheless could grow into a signifi cant certain bag proves popular, Minkoff may suggest business, said NPD analyst Cohen. that a retailer pick it up. Feedback from bloggers • Shortomatic: Boardshorts “Right now it’s not even 1 percent of most of has also helped her adjust some designs. • Naked & Angry, MySoti: Wallpaper, ties, dishes, bags, the market. Of course, there are companies where Coach, Havaianas and other companies have umbrellas and lamp shades it’s everything,” he said, referring to such fi rms as successfully used crowdsourcing for design con- • Zazzle, CaféPress: Mugs, T-shirts, mouse pads, cards and Threadless. “Now it’s not even big enough to be tests and to generate interest in their products postage stamps on the radar screen, but over time it could poten- and spur sales. Coach, for example, held a tote de- • Threadless: T-shirts tially be up to 10 percent of the total market of sign contest where two of the three winners were product. It’s not going to grow much more than picked by Coach based on ratings and how widely • Spoonfl ower: Printed fabric that. That’s a sizable business in its own right. they were featured on other Internet sites. • ModCloth: Dresses That’s a $2 billion business.” German pattern company Burda offers free, • Ponoko, Made: Furniture, jewelry and home decoration Keds is perhaps the largest and best-known crowd-sourced sewing patterns, advice and proj- • BurdaStyle: Sewing patterns and projects company — whose success is based on 20th-cen- ects at its Brooklyn-based BurdaStyle site. The tury mass manufacturing techniques — to set up a community has 385,000 registered users and is marketplace for customized products. growing by about 10,000 members a month. It of- The Keds Design Your Own custom program, PHOTO BY ALAN SCHEIN PHOTOGRAPHY/CORBIS PHOTO BY fers 448 patterns, including 158 that are user generated, launched in 2008, lets online visitors specify the color and 39,003 user-generated projects. The company esti- or print of more than a dozen elements on fi ve styles of mates several million patterns have been downloaded. sneakers. If shoppers don’t like the prints provided, they Later this month, it will partner with Gap on a user-gen- can upload their own. Visitors can share and sell their erated styling campaign. creations on Zazzle.com, which powers the Keds custom Even unknown designers have been able to fi nd an business. They can also set their own royalty from 10 to audience, a market, and funding online; consumers in 99 percent above the base shoe price of $60. turn have been able to establish a one-to-one connec- Redwood City, Calif.-based Zazzle is one of the larg- tion with a designer. est retailers of custom-printed products that include Through Kickstarter.com, handbag designer Andrea apparel. It produces a wide variety of goods, including Tobin of Marla Cielo was able to fund and assemble a postage stamps, mugs, T-shirts and iPhone cases, and of- group of buyers for a series of one-of-a-kind clutches fers a marketplace for everything. A recent offshoot is fashioned out of a mural she painted. She raised $4,000 its Artsprojekt Labz, which offers a more curated selec- to pay for materials and time. Individuals who donated tion of designs from contributors approved by Zazzle. $295 or more received a signed and numbered edition Zazzle does not disclose annual revenues or the num- of one of the 50 bags, a photograph of the mural and an ber of units it has sold, but it offers 31 billion products invitation to a party for the owners of the bags. for sale and is “highly profi table and [has] been for The number of companies diving into the crowd- some time,” said Zazzle director of consumer marketing sourcing arena in one way or another is growing expo- Michael Karns. It employs about 400 people. In 2005, the nentially. Other examples include: site received $16 million of venture capital funding in a • Using a model very similar to ModCloth, London- Series A round led by Kleiner Perkins Caufi eld & Byers. based furniture company Made.com posts furniture Last year, Keds introduced the Keds Collective, a cu- samples online for people to vote on. The items that get rated collection of designs from artists, musicians and the most votes are then posted in the online store for a others chosen by Keds. brief number of weeks to garner orders. When enough A Style Gallery shows an ever-evolving collection people have ordered, the item is produced in a facto- of streetwear-style shots of people wearing Keds. It is ry in China. Returns are permitted; it takes about two powered by Chictopia, a fashion social-networking site months to receive an item. Prices are relatively low, where members share and critique photos of them- perhaps because the company has lower overhead com- selves in their outfi ts. pared with a traditional retailer or manufacturer. “The [regular] Keds business is much greater than • Nike, which introduced customized sneakers with our custom business, which I think is natural,” said NikeiD in 1999, has in recent years broadened the pro- Keds president Kristin Kohler Burrows. “It’s easier for gram to include a huge variety of options, personalized people to buy an existing product versus designing their clothing and sports equipment, and the ability for cus- own. We expect to see large numbers of sales from the tomers to share and order each other’s designs in its on- Keds Collective. It’s a growing segment now.” line gallery and iPhone app. There are 35 designers and 424 designs in the Keds • Threadless, founded in 2000 and headquartered in A Bloomingdale’s window promoting the Keds-Whitney Museum Collective. There are 326,000 custom Keds styles avail- Chicago, generates revenues of about $38 million a year collaboration. Top: a toile fabric by Marnie Long available on able on the Zazzle site from an unknown number of users. producing and selling T-shirts whose graphic designs Spoonfl ower. “We provide a clear point of view or starting point for are submitted and chosen by users on the site. that product because it’s Keds Champion and it encour- • At Ponoko, visitors can create, sell, source, pro- other crafts, which they sell on craft marketplace Etsy. ages people to add their point of view on top of that. We duce and buy anything from tables to jewelry by up- About 20 percent of Spoonfl ower sales are to people felt it really reinforced the brand’s positioning of cre- loading drawings to the New Zealand-based company, buying someone else’s design. Many of the users on the ative possibilities,” she continued. which then laser cuts the design in felt, metal, wood or site have day jobs, such as Spoonfl ower community blog- “Marketing today has become much more of an in- other materials. ger Cameron Blazer, who is a lawyer. terplay between the consumer and the brand, and al- • Anymatic of Santa Monica makes custom-printed “Textile design is something that used to be limited though the brand must have a clear point of view, the yoga mats and boardshorts. At Shortomatic.com, which to a tiny number of professionals and products that brand must also listen and be relevant and engaging to recently added shorts for women, anyone can design a were mass produced,” said Fraser. “You put these tools the consumer today.” pair of shorts by uploading unique graphics and choos- for self expression out there, and people will embrace The Keds Collective area on keds.com is getting a lot ing other custom elements such as an inscription. them, whether it’s books, photography, textile design, of traffi c, she said. Retail accounts can also order and Shoppers can also choose from a curated selection of product design, and the same thing could easily be true sell custom product. existing designs, and they can submit a design to be for apparel design as well. Micro-manufacturing could “I think what you’re seeing is a diversifi cation of the considered for inclusion in the artist community. The easily become a signifi cant force in the U.S. way consumers interact with media and brands, and I curated shorts are produced in limited editions of 200, “Broadly speaking, we’ve opened up a channel for think it’s critical that brands are there [in order] to stay and artists receive $5 for every pair sold. The company expression that wasn’t really there before,” he contin- engaging. It’s never going to be 90 percent of the busi- is collaborating with designer Matthew Langille, who ued. “There are hundreds of thousands of designs on ness, but at the same time, it’s a critical part of the busi- has worked for Swatch and Marc Jacobs, on a collection the site now that are available for sale that would never ness because the consumer expects the brand to be there of shorts for the site that will be worn by a contestant in have seen the light of day.” to really engage the consumer,” said Kohler Burrows. 22 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 26, 2010 WWD.COM For WWD’s weekly stock chart and more Financial financial news, see WWD.com / business-news. J.P. Morgan: A Personal, but Global, Approach By Evan Clark Many are looking for the quickly growing economies in Asia to provide M&A fireworks, INVESTMENT BANKERS LIKE PHILIP but Bleser said there would be deals made Bleser call it a “liquidity event” when the around the world. owner of a company cashes out and sells “Everybody thinks Asia, but it’s not neces- their business. sarily going to be the case,” he said. “You’ll But the sudden ability to keep seven, see Asia and Europe and Latin America and eight or nine figures in their checking ac- the U.S. all be active. There will be more count might elicit something more like “ka- cross-border opportunity, especially where ching!” from everyone else. currencies create opportunity. But what It’s a moment with which Bleser, manag- management teams are really after are those ing director and chief executive officer of brands, those teams and a new distribution J.P. Morgan’s midcorporate banking group, channel” that offer growth. has some experience. There have been Fashion businesses went into cash-conser- 38 apparel and retail M&A deals topping vation mode during the recession and now $1 billion over the last five years, and J.P. they face a new, tougher consumer and are Morgan’s played an advisory role in more looking for expansion opportunities. than half of them. Still, it’s not all about the Oken said executives at companies that in money. “We’re in the relationship business,” the Nineties could afford to be exclusively in Bleser said. North America are now taking a look at the “There’s crying sometime; it’s a big step” landscape and asking, “Do I need a new con- when a company is sold, said Erik Oken, man- cept? Do I need to expand geographically?” aging director and co-head of retail invest- For many, the answer appears to be yes, es- ment banking. pecially given the decline in U.S. real estate So that’s when Oken goes in for the hug, development and the slow economic growth. right? Not exactly. He’s more the type to Investment bankers work hard to under- hunt and fish with clients. stand the industry and then pitch their ideas But Meredith Vanden Handel, managing to executives. director, is ready. “If you’re looking to create personal re- “Some of us have hugged,” she said dur- lationships, that has to be done in person,” ing a group interview in Bleser’s office. Oken said. “I’d love to say I could do that over “With many clients, this is a family event.” the phone, but I’m not that charming. What I These three, together with executive di- like is whispering in the ceo’s and cfo’s ears.” rector Nik Johnston, are a family of sorts, That whispering might include a bit more too, and one that seems to genuinely like about private equity firms. Although Oken working together, completing each other’s said private equity at its peak only account- thoughts. ed for about a third of the deal flow, the big- Directing a group that spreads across money investors are looking to get into deals 22 offices in the U.S. and Canada, the mild- in new ways. mannered Bleser specializes in commercial “Private equity firms are trying to figure and investment banking services for compa- Team J.P. Morgan: Philip Bleser, out a way to successfully integrate themselves nies with revenues of at least $250 million, Meredith Vanden Handel, into strategic transactions,” Oken said. “The or quickly growing firms on their way to Erik Oken and Nik Johnston. walls between the strategic world and the fi- that realm. J.P. Morgan has helped nurture nancial world have broken down.” brands such as Michael Kors and Tommy Dealmakers are a leading indicator of Hilfiger as they expanded into the limelight. sorts, since it can take 18 months or more to go through the entire acquisition process. Bleser spent 70 percent of his time on the road last year, meeting with clients, and “It’s only been a short period of time for companies to review where they are,” said he, like the bank overall, is starting to feel better about the economy, while keeping a Johnston, adding it hasn’t even been 18 months since the market bottomed out last close eye on job growth. year. That means fashion M&A could perk up even more down the line. “There’s uncertainty in the small-business recovery,” he said. “The larger busi- As Vanden Handel noted of retail, “Every season can be a reinvention. There’s nesses are beginning to hire already.” always that optimism.” Body Central Plans IPO Earnings Help Lift Stocks for Week BODY CENTRAL ACQUISITION CORP. HAS FILED a shelf registration statement with the Securities STOCKS PERKED UP LAST WEEK, AS STRONGER still uneasy. and Exchange Commission for an $86.3 million ini- second-quarter earnings from VF Corp. and other big cor- “Consumer confidence has been dramatically shaken tial public offering. porations overshadowed reports of a still-weak housing in the past couple of months, and it may take some time Founded in 1973, the value-priced retailer oper- market and confirmation from Federal Reserve chairman to recover to more reasonable levels,” said Bethune and ates 196 stores under the nameplates Body Central Ben S. Bernanke that the economic outlook remained Gault. and Body Shop across 23 states. It sells apparel “unusually uncertain.” Markets will also get a first look at second-quarter and accessories under the labels Body Central and The S&P Retail Index rose 0.9 percent, or 3.55 points, GDP Friday. The U.S. economy grew at an annual rate Lipstick. to 408.17 on Friday, capping a 4.5 percent gain for the of 2.7 percent in the first quarter, and IHS expects The Jacksonville, Fla.-based specialty apparel week. Fashion’s gainers on Friday included The Bon- that it expanded by 3 percent in the second quarter, retailer’s primary customers are women in their Ton Stores Inc., up 10.4 percent to $8.82; Cache Inc., 9.2 though other economists are looking for a slowdown late teens and 20s. percent to $5.53; Guess Inc., 5.1 percent to $37.66; Jones in growth. A controlling interest in Body Central was Apparel Group Inc., 4.5 percent to $16.26; Liz Claiborne “The economy entered the second quarter with plenty sold in October 2006 to a group of investors led by Inc., 3.8 percent to $4.98; Aéropostale Inc., 3.3 percent to of momentum, but exited with very little,” said Bethune WestView Capital Partners, which holds a 31.6 per- $30.88, and VF Corp., 1.8 percent to $79.78. and Gault. “We expect that growth in the third quarter cent stake. PineBridge Investments holds a 29.8 per- Of the 172 stocks tracked by WWD, 156 rose last week, will be slower than in the second.” cent stake. while four held steady and 12 declined. • Volcom Agrees to Buy Licensee: Volcom Inc. said The plan is to trade shares of Body Central over- The Dow Jones Industrial Average rose 1 percent, or Friday that it had signed an agreement to acquire the-counter under the symbol BODY. Piper Jaffray 102.32 points, to 10,424.62 for the day and advanced 3.2 Australian licensee Volcom Australia for undisclosed and Jefferies & Co. are the co-lead underwriters. percent for the week. terms. The company expects the purchase to close While it operates in some of the same U.S. Equities gained around the world last week, with the during the third quarter and have no effect on earn- malls as units of The Body Shop International SSE Composite Index in Shanghai, the CAC 40 in Paris ings for the current fiscal year. “This is one of the plc, the firm is not affiliated with the British and FTSE 100 in London all rising at least 3 percent. The most influential territories for Volcom,” said Richard cosmetics and beauty firm. It granted the U.K. Hang Seng Index in Hong Kong increased 2.8 percent, Woolcott, chairman and chief executive officer of the firm a license to operate stores under the Body and the DAX in Frankfurt was up 2.1 percent. The Nikkei Costa Mesa, Calif.-based marketer of surf-and-skate- Shop trademark in 1991. “Our current business 225 in Tokyo was the laggard among major markets with related apparel, “and this move represents a great op- is focused on developing the Body Central and a 0.2 percent gain. portunity for us to continue to build brand strength Lipstick brands and is moving away from the use This week, investors get a look at second-quarter gross and market share.” of the Body Shop name for our stores and as a domestic product growth, a fresh reading on new home Volcom, a presence in Australia since 1993, has brand,” the SEC filing said. sales and two takes on consumer confidence. licensees in Brazil, Indonesia, South Africa and While still below historic levels, IPO ac- IHS Global Insight U.S. economists Brian Bethune and Argentina. The company is scheduled to report sec- tivity accelerated during the first half of the Nigel Gault expect improvement in both The Conference ond-quarter financial results on Thursday. At the end year with new listings on U.S. exchanges to- Board’s reading on consumer sentiment Tuesday and of the first quarter, on March 31, the company had cash taling 66 and raising $9.2 billion, according to Thomson Reuters/University of Michigan’s Surveys of and cash equivalents of $64 million on its books in ad- PricewaterhouseCoopers Transaction Services. Consumers, due out Friday. dition to $45 million in short-term investments. On During the first half of 2009, there were 14 IPOs While the improvement in the stock market and Friday, Volcom shares rose 66 cents, or 3.5 percent, to that raised $2.3 billion. better headlines on the oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico close at $19.37. — Vicki M. Young are expected to have helped confidence, shoppers are — E.C., with contributions from Arnold J. Karr WWD, MONDAY, JULY 26, 2010 23 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS OF THE NIGHT: Nicolas Ghesquière won’t be the only honoree portfolio” as a likely suitor. Burberry has a market capitalization Catch 25 Foundation. DKNY signed a long-term, multifaceted at the Fashion Group International’s Oct. 28 Night of Stars. of 3.7 billion pounds, or $5.7 billion, and is trading at a 22 sponsorship deal with the Yankees earlier this year. The Balenciaga designer, who is receiving this year’s Superstar percent premium to its peers. On Friday, the trophy, will be joined by Akris’ Albert Kriemler and Proenza stock closed up 1.52 percent at 8.69 pounds, DENVER’S DAY: Hip young things in the Mile High Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who are or $13.38. PPR most certainly would have City traded shorts and sandals for slinky summer being honored in the fashion category; Diego Della Valle, who is the means to do a deal: According to its 2009 dresses Saturday night at the high-energy receiving the Brand Visionary award, and Frédéric Fekkai, this earnings report, the French parent of Gucci Riverfront Park Fashion Show, where Betsey year’s Beauty honoree. Urban Outfitter’s Glen Senk will take home Group and Puma has available cash of 945 Johnson was the first of the evening’s three the Corporate Leadership award; Evelyn Lauder, the Humanitarian million euros, or $1.23 billion, and a medium- featured designers. The annual runway show award, and Janie Bryant, the award for entertainment. Rafael and term credit line worth 6 billion euros, or $7.74 and cocktail party benefited the charity Railyard Diana Viñoly, meanwhile, are being honored in the architecture billion. Spokespeople for PPR and Burberry both Dogs and drew about 1,200 people beneath category. This year’s Board of Directors Legend award will declined to comment on the speculation Friday. the 200-foot Millennium Bridge.“People are go to Pierre Cardin. The annual event will take place at surprised there’s this kind of thing in Denver,” Cipriani 55 Wall Street. PRINT TO PERFUME: The next big thing in said stylist Tobie Orr, who produced the event fragrances after celebrity scents? Fashion with East West Partners. “But we have people L.A. STORY: Stephen Webster is set to plant his flag in editors. Anna Dello Russo, Japanese Vogue’s who have flown in from all over for this.” the U.S. The London-based jeweler will open his first fashion director at large and current muse to In addition to Johnson’s fall collection, American store on Rodeo Drive in November. The the blogosphere, confirmed to WWD she is Aspen-based designer Gabriel Conroy showed 2,000-square-foot space — which is near Tiffany, planning to launch her own fragrance, set whimsical couture, followed by a Parisian Bulgari and Versace — will span two floors. Its to roll out at the end of the year. In true collection from Sue Wong, who has created design will mirror Webster’s London flagship on fashion style, Dello Russo said the idea ready-to-wear separates inspired by the film “Eat Mount Street, which has concrete floors, and is came from a suggestion by art director Pray Love,” out in August. A Betsey Johnson bikini at decorated with stuffed birds and steel fittings. Ronnie Cooke Newhouse. “Ronnie In years past, Riverfront Park Fashion has the Riverfront Park Fashion The Los Angeles store will house both defined me as an insider reality fashion featured runway shows by Catherine Malandrino Show in Denver. Webster’s fine and silver jewelry collections star, and so I thought, Now is the time and Robert Rodriguez. for men and women on the ground floor, to do a fragrance,” said Dello Russo in Milan. while upstairs there will be an exhibition TEQUILA SUNSET: In bygone days, Hugo Boss’ rooftop parties space called the No Regrets lounge, LULA LOVING: “I look like a Christmas decoration,” were a frequent fixture of New York summers. Last week, the where the jeweler will exhibit work and said Lula founder Leith Clark, referring to her megabrand brought back the good times, in conjunction with collaborations with his creative pals, such as chic, metallic green Rodarte party dress. She market week, with a rooftop concert and plenty of DeLéon tequila photographer Rankin and artist Tracey Emin. joined Charlotte Dellal, Liberty Ross, Daisy de cocktails. After sundown, high funkstress Janelle Monáe put on The store also will carry some homeware Villeneuve, Coco Sumner, Clémence Poésy and Erdem a rollicking set, opening for R&B singer Robin Thicke. Guests pieces, a new venture, and will showcase Moralioglu to celebrate the fifth birthday of Lula included Miss USA Rima Fakih, actors Tyson Beckford and Patrick items that broaden Webster’s product line Magazine at Harvey Nichols’ Fifth Floor Restaurant Heusinger, socialite Emma Snowdon-Jones, members of Cobra outside of jewelry. Webster, founder and creative in Knightsbridge. “My hairline recedes and I start Starship, fencer Tim Morehouse director of the jewelry house, said, “Over the past developing stomach ulcers from this point onwards,” said a and stylist Phillip Bloch. 10 years, we have built strong ties with the L.A. tanned Moralioglu, who, having just returned from a holiday community, including the world of entertainment to Formentera, fears he may look slightly older by the time based there. The opening of this store is set to be London Fashion Week approaches. Later, as the lychee rose FOLLOWING FENDI: Fendi Uomo extremely significant in our development.” The Los Champagne cocktails flowed, guests listened to an acoustic will unveil a pop-up store for Angeles store will be Webster’s eighth stand-alone performance by Sumner. The magazine has a pop-up shop in the exclusive sale in France unit worldwide, to add to the house’s 120 points the store, curated by Clark, which will sell labels including of its fall men’s collection at of sale. Webster also serves as creative director of Rodarte, Erdem, Miu Miu and Sonia Rykiel. Paris’ Galeries Lafayette from London jeweler Garrard. Aug. 16 to Oct. 2. A second Charlotte Dellal WAGS ON THE TOWN: On Thursday, a gaggle of New York ephemeral Fendi Uomo BE MY BURBERRY: Speculation in U.K. financial Yankees wives, fiancées and girlfriends ventured to DKNY store will bow in London’s markets that Burberry could, at some point, be on Madison Avenue for a charity runway show and shopping Harrods Oct. 6 to Dec. 14. acquired by one of the big luxury conglomerates just won’t die. event hosted by Yankees manager Joe Girardi’s wife, Kim The Italian luxury brand’s In the past, rumors have centered on LVMH Moët Hennessy Girardi. Among them were Laura Posada, wife of catcher Jorge men’s collection has kept a Louis Vuitton, while this time the talk is focused on PPR. On Posada; Erin Robertson, wife of pitcher David Robertson and low profile of late. In January Friday, Peter Farren, an analyst in the London office of Bryan “Gossip Girl’s” Joanna Garcia, who is engaged to outfielder Nick 2009, it skipped the Milanese Garnier & Co., called Burberry “an attractive bid target, thanks Swisher. WAGs are known for spending, and this troupe was men’s runway and has since to its strong brand momentum and 100 percent free float.” no different. Within an hour, they spent more than $40,000 been shown via private Gianfranco Ferré teamed with Farren named PPR, which is “in the process of building its brand at the store, with 10 percent going to the Girardis’ charity, the appointments in Rome. Rosato for a jewelry collection.

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