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Eastern

Why Go? ...... 253 The eastern edge of Tuscany is beloved by local and interna- ...... 259 tional film directors, who have immortalised its landscape, medieval hilltop towns and laid-back locals in a range of The ...... 263 critically acclaimed and visually splendid films. Despite this, ...... 263 the region is strangely bereft of foreign tourists ( is Parco Nazionale delle a notable exception) and so offers uncrowded trails to those Foreste Casentinesi, visitors who decide to devote a week or so to exploration Monte Falterona e here. The attractions are many and varied: spectacular Campigna...... 265 mountain scenery and walks in the Casentino; magnificent Val di Chiana...... 267 art and architecture in the medieval cities of Arezzo, Sanse- Castiglion. polcro and Cortona; one of ’s most significant Catholic Fiorentino...... 267 pilgrimage sites; and Tuscany’s best bistecca alla fiorentina Cortona...... 267 (chargrilled T-bone steak) in the Val di Chiana. Your travels may be solitary but they’ll always be rewarding – a particu- larly unusual and felicitous combination. Best Places to Eat ¨¨Il Tirabusciò (p266) Road Distances ¨¨LAB Pasticceria (p258) ¨¨Ristorante Da Ventura Arezzo 94 (p262) Cortona 65 29 ¨¨Ristorante La Nena (p259) ¨¨Trattoria del Leone (p258) Sansepolcro 76 38 52

Poppi 132 36 62 71 Best Places to Stay ¨¨Borgo Corsignano (p265) ¨¨Casa Chilenne (p269) ¨¨Relais Palazzo Magi (p262) Assisi Arezzo Cortona Sansepolcro ¨¨Villa Fontelunga (p258) ¨¨Villa Marsili (p269) - - DAYS

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, near Sansepolcro, where the famous battle of famousbattleof the where Sansepolcro,near , between Poppi and Arezzo. and between Poppi , Day 1: Arezzo Day 3: di Chiana Val and lush pastures groves olive apple orchards, Home to the huge graze, Chianina cattle porcelain-white where be- when travelling exploring di Chiana is worth Val - cen to either town or from and Cortona, Arezzo tween to visit track the beaten off way your Make Tuscany. tral Foiano della such as , towns hilltop Chiana and . Day 2: Della Robbia Trail be- way ceramics took sculptors of family This famous magnificent creating in the 15th century, teacups yond Tuscany. throughout churches for sculptures devotional at Camaldoli and La monasteries the medieval Visit Casentinesi, Nazionale delle Foreste in the Parco Verna masterpieces admire e Campigna to Falterona Monte of the member famous the most by terracotta in glazed (1435–1525). Andrea family, THREE major city, Tuscany’s Eastern in set major films are Two and streets the historic exploring Spend the day Arezzo. of La vitascenes filmed Benigni Roberto where piazzas pop into wanders, your On è bella is Beautiful). (Life the duomo Maria and be both di Santa and the Pieve by genius della Francesca’s Piero to homage pay to sure Francesco’s di San in the Basilica his frescoes viewing the most shot Minghella Anthony where Capella Bacci, The of scene Englishmemorable Patient . The town of of town The History buffs will love the unspoiled medieval hilltop town town hilltop medievalunspoiled the love Historybuffs will unassuming to head town, typical hill Casentinesia visit To ¨ ¨ ¨ ¨ wool-makingfascinating its for known is and the on heritage. Off the Beaten Track ¨ of 1440. in occurred name same the ¨ Getting Arezzo is on train line, as the is –Rome Camucia, centre. historic Cortona’s from ride shuttle-bus a 15-minute San and Casentino, the with Arezzo link lines rail Regional few are Tuscany of part this in Buses . with sepolcro to Sansepol Arezzo from – can travel you and far between cro or via from Anghiari, to Arezzo via Cortona and Castiglion Casentino the explore To it. about that’s but Fiorentino, car. a need you’ll Chiana, di Val

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e parcoforestecasentinesi.it) Foreste Monte casentino.net) ¨ ¨ ¨ (www.benvenutiadarezzo.it) (p269), Cortona (p269), Resources (p262), Sansepolcro (p262), ¨ (p257), Arezzo (p257), ¨ Pageants ¨ Medieval Showcases an antique an Showcases eclecticpersonal dealer’s collection. ¨ (p257) Arezzo Bruschi, but sensational collection but of art. religious ¨ small a Has Cortona (p268) paintings by Piero della Piero by paintings Francesca. Sansepolcro (p259) Home Sansepolcro(p259) magnificent three to ¨ Best Museums

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