J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-39-05-05 on 1 November 1922. Downloaded from

354

NAHRATIVE OF A MARCH IN[,O KURDISTAN DURI~G THE REBELLION OF 1919.

By CAPTAIN J. C. BURNS. Royal Army Medical Oorps. _ THE hot weather was once more upon us and from 10 a.m. till 4 p.m. the air was red-hot and sore to breathe. Overhead a pitiless sun in a brazen _sky shone down on a parched and thirsty land. Along the Tigris four miles above Baghdad stretches a grove of palm trees and in June, 1919, these palm trees afforded some shade to the two miles of tents that sheltered the British and Indian troQPs who hoped to spend the next four dreary months in peace if not in comfort in this camp of Chaldari. But for some of us this was not to be. War clouds had already settled over the mountains of Kurdistan and' their shadow extended as far as Baghdad. Since the armistice and the withdrawal of large bodies of troops down river from the outlying districts, discontent had shown itself among the Kurdish tribes. -t:;heik Mahmud, the paramount ruler of Southern guest. Protected by copyright. Kurdistan, rose in rebellion in May. The British officials in Suleimanyah, the capital of this province, were besieged and their massacre was daily feared. The tribes, it appears, had been able to obtain supplies of arms :and ammunition from the Turks retiring in disorder before the British .advance from Kifri to Altun Kupri in 1918. A flying column in Ford cars was hurriedly got together at Kirkuk and.accompanied by some L.A.M.B. -cars,set,outto the relief of Suleimanyah. They succeeded in getting two­ thirds of the way, but while bivouacked in the Tachludga Pass were attacked in force by the Kurds and forced to retire to Chemchemal. '11 wo armoured cars, unable to elevate their machine-guns sufficiently to bear on the tribesmen hidden behilldrocks on the hillsides, attempted to rush the lower slopes and give the convoy time tb get clear of the pass. Owing to

the broken nature of the ground ana the' low clearance of thecal'S both http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ were put out of action. The British crews were c,aptured, but thanks to the presence of Sheik Mahmud himself, their lives were spared and the men were taken back uuder safe conduct to Chemchemal. This engage­ ment greatly encouraged the spread of the insurr-ection, and Halebja, lying to the -east towards the Avroman mountains, was entered by hostile -elements. The Political Officer only just succeeded in -escaping with his life. Such was the situation in the month of May. Urgent action was now necessary to suppress this rebellion before -the sporadic outbreak _ became an epidemic. Troops of the 18th Division were concentrated therefore at Kirkuk, the objective, Suleimanyah, being reached via Ch em­ on September 26, 2021 by -chemal and the Bazyan Pass-the latter a deep, narrow cleft in a chain of mountains running ,at right angles to the only practicable route into Southern Kurdistan. It afforded a position of great natural strength and was likely to be held in force by the Kurds. While the main operations were to take place from the west by the 18th Division, a column from the J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-39-05-05 on 1 November 1922. Downloaded from

,1. O. Bu1'l!s 355

17th Division was to proceed hy the Persian border and enter Southern Kurdistan from the east by thc Avrolluln mountaills. 'rhis column was composed of troops encamped at Cbaldari. The column was to be com­ manded by Colonel B. or the" Buffs"; Major W. of the Royal Engineers was Brigade Major; Captain M. P. was Staff Captain; Captain C. the Supply Omcer. 'l'he troops consisted of one battalion of Gurkhas, two companies of Baluchis, a pack wireless sectioll, a company of sappers and miners, and a "medical nnit." I was detailed to ta.ke over the meoical unit_ Later, while 011 out' way to the Persian fronticr, we were joined by a section of mountain battery,. a pack amhulance and a small survey party. Little was known regarding the route we were to follow, the maps available were by no means completc. 'rhe route was said to he practicable for pack animals and it was saiel that dming the war small parties of Turkish troops had crossed to Kermanshah by tl,ese mountain paths. I think it is safe to say we were the first body of British troops to penetrate this strip of border conntry. Just prior to the outbreak of war the Turco­

Persian Bonndary Commission passed over part of this country and did guest. Protected by copyright. some valuable survey work. It was considered probable tbat the coluUln would be out of tonch with any lines of communication for 11 period fl'om three weeks iD a month, so that the column would bave to be self-contained. ~'he Assistant Director of Medical Services o( the Division informed me that all sick and wounded, once we had left the railway, would have to be carried with tbe column. No wheeled transport could be taken. The question of tbe transport of casualties over these mountain tracks was likely to prove a difficult one and one (elt that even undcr the best conditions the lot of the sick man was likely to prove a. rough one. }:'or eascs "ble to ride we could utilize the pock mules of tbe supply column as their loads were used up as rations. N "turally the supply of such spare mules would increa.se from day to day. As regards lying cases or http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ otbers who could not ride or be supported on a mule, they would have to be carried on stretchers by the dhoolly bearers. A patient wbo bad to lie on a stretcber and be carried (or hours on end in the fie],ce heat of a lilesopo­ tamian midsummer, 'would require Some arrangement to provide him with shade from the sun's rays. On t.he suggestion of 11 medical division," the sapper company forming part of the column constructed a number of tbree­ sided supports out of thin iron bars (see photo No. 1). Two of these iron supports were needed for eacb stretcher; the ends of the uprights fitting into sml11l slots at the base of the stretcher handles. Connecting tbe cross pieces at each end of the stretcher were two palm fronds- they were very on September 26, 2021 by light and yet sufficiently rigid to support the blankets which were to be thrown over tbis framework. ~'wo blankets were needed for each frame and were arranged in such a Wl1y that the portion forming tbe roof was double. Onc side of this contri vance could al ways be kept open and allow of a free circula.tion of air. On the march, when not regulrcd, the iron frames were collected together and carried on a pack mule. 'l'he palm 23 J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-39-05-05 on 1 November 1922. Downloaded from

356 A March into Kurdistan during the Rebellion

fronds were folded up in Lhe canvas of thc closed stretchers. Later, while in hivouac at Suleimauyah, these stretchers with tbeir frames were most useful for rigging up 1lI0squito nets to protect the sick froIU the myriads of flies, mosquitoes ,,,Id sand·flies that made this particular camp a torment. As regards the medical and surgical cquipment carriecl, it was the operation scale of " section of a. combined field ambulance. Extra medical comforts were taken and four lGO-lb. tents for sick. The personnel of the unit like the rest of the column was on summer operation scale and no tents. As the country was rocky the mules had to be sbod all ronnd and more than usual attention bad to bc paid to the condition of tbe men's hoots. New pakhals were obtained frolll Ordnance, etc. Ou the evening of Jnne 2 the column entraiued at Chaldari and we set off on the first part of guest. Protected by copyright.

PBOTOGR.APH No. I.-Showing the mule" litter" on the march equipped with the frame. work to wbich bla.okets can be fitted to provide sha.de for the patient. http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ onr .iourney towards the Persian railbead. In tbe morning, wbile it was yet cool, we detrained at a " station" called Musa Atmah and bere we went into camp. It was a delightful contrast to the sun-baked plaills of the 'I'igris and on all sides tbe country stretched away in a series of grassy billows, mounting bigber and higher alld changing colour till they melted into tbe distant blue baze of tbe Persian mountains. 'Ye camped here for some days practising the rapid formation of perimeter camps and getting men and animals fit for tbe march. Orders were received to move up the railway another twenty-eight miles, where we were to await the arrival of tbe Political Officer from Halebja who was to act as guide. The on September 26, 2021 by section of mountain battery bad joincd us at Musa Atmah and now the pack ambulance under Capt. M. of tbe LM.S. joined tbe column. This unit was got togetber spccially by General Headquarters and this was tbe first occasion for it to be used in tbe Force. 'I'be chief feature was the provision of "cacolets "-on either side of a pack saddle was a variety of skeleton chair into wbich a sick or wounded man could be J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-39-05-05 on 1 November 1922. Downloaded from

J. O. Burns 357

buckled. Some of the mules proyided for this unit were not up to the weight of two men anel equipment. The small Gurkba rifleman could be tucked into the c"colet more or Icss successfully, but a stalwart Baluchi sepoy was quite a different matter and a considerable amount o( trouble bad to be taken to ensure even distribution of the weight. As far as I can recollect tbere were twenty of these c"colet mules, so that tbe actual transport of suitable cases was made more efficient. I now thou~bt that I would feel easier in my mind if I set "hout making some conveyance for a seriously ill e"se and decided llpon making a mule "litter." Por the construction of tbis I enlisted tbe belp of the two sapper officers and the result was that if I provided the materials tbey would see that it was compactly put together. 'l'bere were some E.P. tent poles lying in a dump waiting to be seut to Baghdad and the Staff Captain kept a jealous eye upon all articles in the dump. On waylaying guest. Protected by copyright.

PHOT001(APlI No. 2.-8110W3 the column amoLlg the roo:ks on the mountaiu side. http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ the Staff Captain I told bim my desires, but he did not seem to be at all keen on handing over the (our tent poles I wan led. I therefore carefully explained wbat an excellent cbance there would be of carrying a case of beer on the litter until a suitable patient turned up. In a few minutes the tent poles were in the sapper camp. Two of these stout bamboo poles were needed for each side. Cross pieces were lasbed between tbe poles and to the crOSS pieces an opened stretcher was attached. Slings were firmly lashed to each of tbc four ends of the long poles to be att"ched la lhe hool{s on the mule saddles. The Transport Officer looked out two on September 26, 2021 by of his most docile and inlelligent mules and' two good drivers. It took the mules quite .. few minutes to get used to this weird piece of apparatus. As events proved later this litter was quite useless on those parts of the march where the track was steep and tortuous. The rigidity of the frame prevented the mules frOt11 11 cornering ,. and many times I was tempted to throw the whole thing down one of tbe numerous ravines we crosr-ed. On J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-39-05-05 on 1 November 1922. Downloaded from

358 A MaTch into Kmilistan during the Rebellion open country it was excellent, and as it happened my British nursing orderly developed acute appendicitis on the march and was conveyed across country a di,tance of thirty-five miles to the field Itmbnlance at Suleimanyah in comparative comfort. The column was now ready to march, the Political Officer arrived, and then the Commander·in-Chief arrived, inspected the column, and wished 11S 1I bon voyage." Our first march was a short one, the second a good tleallonger. 'Ve camped that eveuing in a piece of ground thickly covered with thorn scrub, so that the mell bad a busy time clearing the camp site. The thorn, however, provided liS witb ample fuel, and soon the dusk was illuminated with the cheery glow of tbe cooking fires. :Hosquitoes from the scrub, bowever, soon began their devilish biting, and one was glad, indeed, to get under a mosquito net. If Surveys" ana I messed together, and guest. Protected by copyright. http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ fUOTOQnAPlI No. 3.-'J'be ,'alle), of the Sirwan River taken from the lioe of march 1,000 feet above the ri\'cr. althougb the unit cook was so mew bat deficient in the knowledge of what the "Sahib log" liked to eat, my orderly, ,fh~n MoLd, lllade good thc deficiencies. Each evening tbe Column Commander met tbe officers of the column, and he or his Brigade Major explained the rOllte to be purslled the follow­ ing day, and issued his routine orders regarding lime and order of marcb, picquets, etc. Our time of marching was just before dawn, and it could Le quite cold at this early hour. After a few marches the column de­ on September 26, 2021 by veloped the faculty of getting under way with the maximum speed and minimum of discomfort. Our route (or tbe first four days was across wide rolling plains, and marching was (airly easy. ;-'[ountain r:J.nges soon hegan to hem us in, and the nature of the ground becalue Illore diflicult. A ridge of bills had to be crossed, and bere wo made the nnwelcome acquaintance of marching over rocks. Our way was up a steep gorge, tbe narrow path J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-39-05-05 on 1 November 1922. Downloaded from

J. O. Burns 359 twisting in and out among huge boulders, while the surface underCoat was rough in tbe extreme, wbicb cut up the boots very qllickly. Tbe sun striking on these naked rocks rendered the still air unbearably hot, but at last we reached tbe top. Our troubles now began, for the path ended in a precipitous slope wbich descended sheer into tbe valley far below us. 'l'bc sappers, however, got to work with blasting charges, and cleared the path of the worst obstacles. 'l'he Illules were allowed to come down as they liked, and one could not belp but admire tbeir agility and surc·footedness. Olle or two came to grief as a result oClhe loads slipping, but the damage was very slight. It took us ten hours to do eight miles that day, hut our appetites were wonderful , and stewed" bully," chupalties, tea and tinned Iruit was just the thing for dinner. As a result of tbe difficult country, there were many cases of foot trouble, [Lnd tbese were carried on the mules guest. Protected by copyright.

PnOl'OORAI'H No. 4.-Cro::lsiog the Sirwan Ri ...· cr. Showing the rafts on which equipment n.nd storefl were icnied across. http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/

whose loads had been eaten. ~c"t day's march was to prove the most trying of the whole operations. Up to now wc had been ahle to find watp,r without much trouLle, but our guide warned us that thc question of finding water in the next valley was very uncertain. Orders \\'ere given, there­ fore, that there was to he great economy in water on thc line of march, as there was a likelihood of having to cnlllp for one night away from a water supply. 'Ve started as usual about 3.30 a.tu., and marched over stony ground through a desolate plain. '1'hi9 narrowed down to a valley

between t\vO ranges of barren 1I1Ountains, aud the air was oppressively on September 26, 2021 by hot. By mid-day we had had about enough, and were profoundly tbankful Cor the order to halt for an hour and a half. There was no shade, however, and the rocks were almost too hot to sit on, and despite glare glasses and spinc pads the beat seemed to penetrate to one's very marrow. l-'ootsore and thirsty we resluned our march through the valley, and thc traek nalTowcd down to a path running through a wide J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-39-05-05 on 1 November 1922. Downloaded from

360 A Mal'ch into KUTdisian dm'ing the Rebellion belt of thorn. ~'o make marching still more uncomfortable, the patb was deep in soft black dust wbicb hung like a cloud over tbe ",veaLing column in the shimmering, baking a.ir. The men were now beginning to show signs of fat igue, und soon we were Lusy collecting the lllell who had fallen in their tracks from heat exhaustion. The mules were as bad as the meu, white with lather, aud witb he/tviug ilanks. The column had to push on, however, until a suitable camp site could be found. About 4 p.m. word was passed back tbat " stream was close at hand, aud in about five minutes we came upon it. It was not much more than si" feet broad edged witb rushes, but there was water in it. As soon as the water was sigbted the animals became frantic. Despite tbe imprecations anu all efforts of tbeir drivers to hold them the mules reared and plunged, dr3.gging their yelhng drivers throu!;b tbe scruh, in their headlong rush to tbe waLer, carrying all before thcm. III this struggling, kicking, plunging mob of maddened mules were abouL tbirty Gurkhas-beat exbl1ustion cases-strapped into guest. Protected by copyright. http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ PlIOTOURArU Xo. 5. - A btreet in Ha.lcbja- typical Kurds. cacolets. Down into tbe stream tbe animals plunged up to their bellies, careless alike of tbeir loads anim~te or inanimate. Tbe stream became a mud bath in which these wretched animals were wallowing with every mark of delight. The unfortunate patients were unshipped as fast as possible, and to my relief and astonishment no one was killed or drowned in tbe mud. Some had bruises to sbow. but tbe poor little fellows were already so done up they did not seem to mind wbat bappened.

While th,s pandemoniulII had been going on the troops bad continued on September 26, 2021 by their march to where the Brigade Major bad found a suitahle camp, "bout two miles farLber on. It was not till some hours I."ter that all tbe loads were collected and brought into camp. Fortunately, Lhe IllOst of our patients suffering from heat exhaustion were able to retul'll to their units except a dozen or so wbo required treatment. As it had beeu sucb a long and trying march, the Column Commander decided to rest here a day and J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-39-05-05 on 1 November 1922. Downloaded from

J. O. BUTIlS 361 give the men a much needed opportunity of washing their clothes. Boots were beginning to give way rapidly, and many of the animals needed re­ shoeing. It was ple",sant, indeed, to be able at last to strip 00' one's nether garments and let tbe running waters of this cool KUL'distan rivulet restore onc to cleanliness. As a result of this delicious bath one's skin really seelUed to fit. Both anilllals ",,,d men were Uluch refreshed with the rest, and we resumed the routine of the march. Next day was eveutrul in so much as we bad the pleasure o( seeing a real tree-the first one since leaving the palms of Baghdad. It was perched on the top of a hill and afforded the survey officer a chance of giving this hill a uallle a.nd not a DUtllVer, Dn his map. ,Ye bad seen nohnman beings up to the present, no villages and not even the tent of nomad shepherds. Tbe wbole country we had passcd over was destitute of animal life. 'I'he route was now ascending steadily and with the rise "' change in tbe guest. Protected by copyright.

PHOTOGllAPll No. G,-'J'he hO U!le of Adelllo Khauuw in Ha.Jebja. http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ character or the vegetation could be noticed. Instead of smooth rounded hills with broad valleys covered with thorn and scanty grass we now entered an area of rugged mountains, deep ravines, down which coursed llumerous streams of delicious ice·cold sparkling water. Tbe slopes of the less precipitous ravines were clothed in long green grass studded with many flowers and bere and Lhere groups of small O:1k trees. 'I'he scenery was more varied aDd beautiful and as we crossed the numerous ridges we could look back over a view extending many miles to tbe Persian hills, round K~rmanshah. 'rhe ail' was fresh and cool and Inarching becatue easier as on September 26, 2021 by tbere was more to occupy the mind. The track was still difficult, in many places wbere it traversed these ravines being at times Bcarcely a (oat broad. On these occasions the mules were :1llowed to go free and the columll moved over ill single file. ,Vhile crossing one particular nervy ridge, a mule belonging to the sappers lost its footing and rolled down the 900 feet slope in :1 cloud of sbale and dust. Funnily enough, this mule was carrying J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-39-05-05 on 1 November 1922. Downloaded from

362 A MaTch into KUTdistan dm'ing the Rebellion the gun-cotton. A few minutes later, oue of my mules was busHed off the path by an impetuous animal coming up from behind. Down it went rolling over and over, scattering its loads in its fall. Anyone who has been in a similar colurun will know what load this unfortunate animal was carrying, vi?;., my few mess stores. Of great importance was the sole remaining bottle of whisky in tbe column and that bottle was in one of the boxes now careering in a cloud of stones and dust down the side of tbe Khud. The mule was not killed, hut of conl'se the bottle of whisky was broken to pieces. Two bottles of lime juice and one of Eno's were intact. Clambering carefully down the slope we reached the unfortunate mule wedged in a crevice and while the men busied tbeu1selves \\-'ith extricating the animal, I h:1d an excellent opportunity of watching the whisky-that deligbtful elixir, tbe hfe-giving distillate of waving fields of Scottish barley ripened hy the northern sun-drain slowly but surely into the thirsty eartb. It was not a joyflll moment. guest. Protected by copyright. http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/

PnO"I'OORAPH No. 7,-A compa.n y of Gurkhas waitiug to ausance.

About midday we entered a be"utiful wooded glade-the sylvan glade one reads about in books. Here wc halted [or tiffin. It was delightful to lie at the foot of a tree sunk deep in luscious cool grass "nd partake of cold bully, raw onions, biscuits and tinned cheese, and later, replete, lie back and watch the blue sllIoke f.rom one's pipe curl up towards the leafy screen above. To lie WIth half-shut eyes in perfect rest witb a delightful sense of lassitude in relaxed limbs, while the drone of insects, the soft crunching of the mules in the grass, and tinkle of their harness, gave an added sense of on September 26, 2021 by languor and drowsy peace. At this point the detachment of the Balucbis was due to leave the column returning to railhead with the spare ration mules and some bad foothite cases. We had thus all opportunity of writing some letters and having them posted at tbe Persian milhead. Om'" wireless" had also got into touch with tbe 18th Division, and we be~rd that the strong position J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-39-05-05 on 1 November 1922. Downloaded from

J. O. Bums 363

of tbe Bazyan pass bad been forced and Sheik MahlUud wounded and a prisouer. The Division was continuing tbe march to Suleimanyab. We learned later of the dash tbrongh of the 32nd Lancers to Sllleimanyab to release the prisoners before the routed E.1ll'ds had time to get back to JUassacre them. Next day we reached the highest point of our march and before us opened a magnificent vista of tree-clad slopes descending gently to the green plains in the distance, throngh which wound the blue water of the Serwan river, on its jouriley to join the Dealah. On our right a precipice descended sbeer into" rocky canyon through wbich tbe snow-fed watel's of tbe river hurled themselves from rapid to rapid and tbe tbullder of their wrath rolled up to us perched 800 feet above. By the aid of field glasses a Kurdish encampment could be discerned on the plain and on the opposite (right) bank of the river. Our path was now downhill and we pushed on guest. Protected by copyright. http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/

PnOTOGRAPH ~o. 8. - .0\ river in,Kurdistall. rapidly. Soon we began to pass patches of culti vation with here and there a rude hut of leafy branches. The banks of the streams we crossed were now becomiug more thickly clothed in vegetation and here aud tbere we traversed sheltercd hollows bowered deep in close-growil1g clumps of rbododendron sbaded uy the fresh green leaves of walnut, oak and mul­ berry. Along the edges of the path grew in tbick profusiou blackberries and the wild rose. 'l'be scenery was deligbtful and the march almost a pleasure. on September 26, 2021 by In the aftel'lloon we passed a fairly large village and we caJUped a short distance away. Fresh vegetables were obtained, and sOllle goats, and made a welcome ac1dition to the rations. This village was the first of the characteristic Kurdish villages we had passed. It was uuilt in two portions -a summer and winter. The SUlluuer quarters were higher up the slopes of tbe mountain and composed of thickly woven leafy branches. The more J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-39-05-05 on 1 November 1922. Downloaded from

364 A MaTCh into Kurdistan dm'ing the Rebellion permanent winler quarters were mud huls without windows or chimneys. The reason for building two parts to a village is really to enable the huppy villagers to escape from the flea-infested winter huts and gain a respite in their flimsy but 11101'8 sanitary arboreal snmmer residences. 'llhe number of /leas per inhabitant and habitation in thew Kurdish mountain villages is probably unique alllong all the races of Asia. Though one must confess one never noticed anything in the \",ay of the "clawin posts" that a philanthropic and practical Duke of Argyll is said to bave set up in certain pints of tbc Highlands of Scotlaud. Having done dispensary and mid­ wifery practise in thc slums of Edinburgh ann :'>Iancbester, I thougbt I knew something about fleas, but a flve minutes' stay in one of tbese hovels ,",.. hile barga.ining for eggs with an ancient crone convinced me that I had much to learn regarding the powers of penetration and irritation of this humble insect. guest. Protected by copyright.

PnOTOGUAPH No. 9.-Ill camp near Sulcimanyah. The columu "hospita.l" built of

brushwood. http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ Onr ncxt marcb brought us across a Wide strelch of open land to the Jiver edge opposite the J\urdish caJIIPJ as this pointed to being the most ohvlOus place to {iud a ford. '1'he afternoon was spent hy the" Staff" in making" careful survey of tbe river and the best means of conveying tbe column across the 100 yards of swift waters. The current was too strong to allow mules encul11bered with loads to cross, and the sappers as usual proceedcd to get over all tbe difficultIes in the shortest space of time. 'I'be Political Officer was able to obtain some useful information from

the Sheik of thc encampment as regards the safest route. ']'wo stout posts on September 26, 2021 by were well dug into both hanks of the river and connected hy a stout cable of rope. 'I'he troops were turned on to cutting gmss, brush wood, etc., to be taken to tbe sapper camp for the making of improvised rafts. Skins were not available, otherwise very serviceable rafts or Imlicks as are used on the 'rigris could have been quicldy eonstructed. Pits were dug, lined with large tarpaulins, and gmss and brushwood well stamped in till J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-39-05-05 on 1 November 1922. Downloaded from

J. O. BW'l1S 365 the pit was filled. The excess tarpaulin was folded over and firmly lashed and the cubical hale removed from the e"db. The dimensions of these bales would be about 9 feet long by 4~ reet deep aud 4) feet broad. '1'wo or three such lasbed together make a very eiIective raft. All the stores were collected on the hank aud amid much hilarity from the grinning Gurkhas the work of transport proceeded apa.ce. To prevent the rafts being swept down stream a travelling rope connected to lhe overhead cable was utilized and fatigue parties on the banks pulled the raft over by means of other ropes. 'Yhen the stores had been safely put over, the mule saddles and the sick were ferried over and the bulk of the equipment of the soldiers, for it was no easy thing to keep one's feet when wading up to the waist in those cold snow waters tbat come past so swiftly. Life lines Were stretched across and the strongest swimmers of the column were stationccl on Lhe banks ill case of accidents- guest. Protected by copyright.

PnO'l'OGRAPH No. lO.-The Bo.7.yan Pal:is between Chemehcmal I!.ud Suloimanyah. http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ IIowever, although one or bvo went under, there ,"vere no serious results and a dose of brandy soon pulled round the rew who were" sbocked." Our camp on tbe Halebja side of the Sirwan was near but not too near the Kurdish shepherds. There was llothing particular to note about tbe style of tbecamps, these being Iike.1I the othcr camps of the nomad sbepherds one had seen along the Tigris frolll Basra to ~Iosul alld from the Khabur river to the lower Euphrates. Long booths of ulack coarse material erecled on rude poles. the interior divided into a series of compartments by mats made of reeds. The women lead a more independent life than on September 26, 2021 by their unhappy sisters on the ~Iesopotamian plains, but they still have all the hard work of the camp to do and arc the hewers of wood and drawers or water. I was greatly intrigued by watching a group of Kurdisb WOlUen who were cburning butter. The apparatus was extremely primitive and had many" neatb Robinson .. characteristics. Tbe receptacle for the cream was a goat skin, and the rest of the apparatus consisted of sorne pieces of J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-39-05-05 on 1 November 1922. Downloaded from

366 A Mm'ch into KU1'distan dU1'ing the Rebellion rope and a tripod. Another point 01 interest wo,s 0, baby gravely surveying t.hc busy scene. It was tightly rolled up in a piece of scarlel blo,nket and lay in a. swinging cL'a.dle . A second (I ne~Lth Robinson" bit of mechanism connected up the cradle and tbe foot of one of the industrions women, so that as she worked at her churn she could o,t the same time rock the cmdle. This idyllic scene was malTed however by the condition of the infant's eyes. Like so many other tiny tots oue sees in every Arab villo,ge on the plo,ins, tbe eyes were badly affected by purulent conjunctivitis and tbe sight of scores of flies clustering round those red oozing lids gave one a guest. Protected by copyright. PERSIA

R.EUPH RATCS http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/

irOUTE of tne CotUI'T1'f SItCWN l''{''s. ____ _

feeling of intense nausea; strangely enougb these children pay no heed to the flies and to all appeamnces suffer DO discomfort from them. Tbe mother wo,s prevailed npon to bring the baby over to the camp, and there we cleaned up the horrid mess, although we knew tbat to-morrow the same state of fi ltb would recur. As soon as the news got round tbat there was on September 26, 2021 by " "Hakim " all the chronics of tbe camp came '-'long, including one old man completely blind who was evidently quite hopeful of an immediate cure. It is on such occasions the young medieo wishes he had a magic wo,nd of healing instead of some boracic lotion and a dose of Epsom salts. ,Ve were enabled to lay in 0, stock of fresh meo,t for the column. ,Vireless cOlllmulllcation was again established and we learned that a column of the 18th Division was marching to Halebja and would join our J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-39-05-05 on 1 November 1922. Downloaded from

J. O. Burns 367 column there. An aeroplane was also to flyover the route of the column and locate us. :As many rebels had fled towards. the mountains and Halebja, we thought there might be a chance of some fighting. We expected to reach the town tha.t day and made an early start. We passed through a valley, and then our route lay past cornfields and orchards. The aeroplane as agreed swung round and round above us and then made off in the direction of Suleimanyah. We passed a certain number of Kurds, finely built men more robust than the lean Arab, covered in cartridge belts and armed with rifle, pistol and the inevitable curved dagger stuck in the folds of the wide Kurdish shawl that serves for a belt. We roped in five men that the Political Officer badly wanted and these we took along with us in handcuffs. Halebja was reached at about noon and the column bivouacked about 400 yards to the east of the town. There was no opposition and the inhabitants kept within doors. 'Th~nks to the wonder­ ful energy of the Staff Captain, and our supply representatives, a field oven was got going and white bread baked. The column of the 18th Division did not' arrive till the afternoon about 4 p.m: Our column commander sent across a present of fresh meat and new baked bread to the new guest. Protected by copyright. arrivals, and this no doubt gave them a hint of what a really wonderful column we were. The Political Officer borrowed the Union Jack from my unit (for which I obtained a receipt) and this was duly hoisted over the Political Serai as a sign to all that the town was in British occupation once more. Halebja is the next most important town (or village) to Suleimanyah and. boasts a telegraph and post office. It was in this lonely town disguised as a Persian trader from Sheraz that MajorSoane, the Political Officer for Kurdistan, lived for three years before the war. His knowledge of the Kurds and the Kurdish dialects is probably unique. A very romantjc figure lives in Halebja in the person of a middle-aged lady commonly known as "Princess Adela." She was of Persian stock but allied to the ruling Sheiks of this district. She appears to be a woman of strong will http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ and of exceptional talent. By her orders the bazaars of the town were roofed over and a vigorous and a successful anti-Turk campaign waR carried out. Princess Adela lived in one of the largest houses of Halebja, but it was just as insanitary as the meaner houses of the poor. A stagnant pool of foul water occupied the centre of the front courtyard. The front of the house was provided with balconies, and here the occupants could sit in- the shade and enjoy the evening breezes. Several Kurdish ponies were usually to be found tethered round the courtyard and here and there groups of armed retainers. The Political Officer's house and offices were' in a sub­ on September 26, 2021 by stantial building immediately adjacent to that of the" Princess," and here on the afternoon of the day following our arrival some of us were summoned to attend the administration of justice to the prisoners we had taken. The original sentences' passed by a Military Court Martial had been commuted to twenty-one lashes with the cat. The punishment was carried out in the public square as an example to any in the crowd who might J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-39-05-05 on 1 November 1922. Downloaded from

368 A March into I(urri;istan during the Rebellion

wish to emulate the deeds of the rebels. 'l'he well merited thrashing was carried through with expedition and thoroughness, a British serjeant using the cat with the touch of a master hand. The prisoners took it well and appeared none the worse, and as soon as their quota of lashes had been received put on their rough garments and disappeared in the crowds lining the marketsquare; , The General Officer, Commanding the 18th Division arrived that afternoon from Suleimanyah. A dinner was given that night to the Political Officer and the officers of the column, but as my professional attentions were required by the General, I was unable to partake of the Kurdisl?- hospitality. It was decided by the higher command that the column of the 18th Division should remain in occupation of Halebja and our column was to march to Suleimanyah via Gulambar, destroying certain villages high up in the mountains. These villages had been a constant source of trouble to the district, being the resort of brigands who, descending from their rocky fastnesses, made raids on Gulambar and the villagers' round Halebja. The route to Gulambar was across open country and save for occasional flooded areas from overflowing irrigation channels guest. Protected by copyright. there were no,difficulties to overcome. We camped b,eside a swift flowing stream, a few hundred yards above the small village of Gulambar-the village of the" amber rose," and indeed it was a most picturesque collec­ tion of Kurdi,sh huts. There appear~d to be a fairly large water mill built - of stone and the mechanism for turning the grindstone appeared' efficient although primitive. Just below the houses is a delightful grove of poplars and willows along the banks of the stream and behind an orchard of fruit -trees with clumps of roses. From here the mountains rise sheer from the plain and there, with the aid of glasses, three villages could be made out perched high among the rocks, typical robbers' nests. The alarm had already reached the villages and men and women could be seen streaming from the huts carrying bundles. They appeared to be making fora " friendly" village away to our right. http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ It was arranged that the three villages should be attacked simultaneously and the huts razed to the ground. The column assembled at the foot of the mountain and the three small columns deployed towards their respec­ tive objectives. Each column consisted of a company of Gurkhas,a section of the sapper company and some British signallers. The two mountain guns remained with column headquarters and the transport. As was to be expected, as soon as the troops began to sC,ale the heights the trIbesmen evacuated the villages and began to - clamber up the precipitous rocks behind. Their withdrawal was hastened by very accurate shelling from on September 26, 2021 by the guns. After a hard and fatiguing climb the column surrounded the villages and proceeded to their work of destruction. The more substantial huts were blown up by the sappers and then set fire to. The three blazing villages made vivid points of colour against the grey rocks and served as an object lesson to the tribesmen for many miles around. This, however, did not put a stop to disorder, for some time later a ,detachment of the column J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-39-05-05 on 1 November 1922. Downloaded from

J. O. Burns 369

left in Halebja was attacked in the mountain defiles eaflt ofthat town, and , suffered many casualties. However, Halebja and its immediate district was well in hand and our worthy Politic\tl Officer left us to return to his lonely and responsible job of representing the British Government in Halebja. Our march to Suleimanyah was rendered unnecessarily difficult by unreliable guides, and for two days our march led through swamps which ,appeared to be infested with more flies and stinging insects than one ever imagined was' possible. We also lost our Staff Captain one night, but he turned up safely the following morning, having spent the night with some friendly Kurds. On the third day we came in sight of Suleimanyah and camped at Kalasan Bridge, five miles beyond where a brigade of the 18th Division was in' bivouac. OUf marching was not yet over, for we were ordered out to search the valleys to the nor:th-west, in which direction several large bands of rebels had fled after the battle of Bazyan. The country was diffi­ cult and our first day's march took us over a shoulder of a mountain to an altitude of 7,500 feet. On descending into the valley on the other side one entered an area of desolation-the ground devoid of every scrap of vegeta­ guest. Protected by copyright. tion and covered with a profusion of large boulders. As the valley broadened out the rocks gave way to scanty grassand thistles, and streams, fed by springs in the mountain range on our right, meandered through the grass land. On the banks of every stream was a village hidden in its orchard of fig trees, mulberries and walnut. Those "oases" were a constant source of joy to the eye wearied by the drab cQlours of withered grass and naked rock. These orchards were usually fairly extensive, being about twenty to thirty acres in extent, and it was delicious to enter the cool green avenues that led through the trees and listen to the soft lappings and gurglings of some hidden stream. The figs were almost ripe and many a pound of this luscious fruit found its way into Jahn Mohd's haversack for the refreshment of his" Bahib." Mulberries both white and. purple were

.. in season and it was no unusual sight to see the men of a picquet squatting http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ in the shade of a tree, crimson from face to feet with the juice of the berries. Other delicacies these areas of cultivation offered were spring onions and cucumbers. Our farthest point was marked by a small river, probably one of the' head waters of the Lesser Zab. The rapid flow of the clear water rushing tumultuously over mossy rocks between high banks covered deep with willows was very reminiscent of a Border stream, and on my part' it required no great effort of imagination to believe I was standing once more on the banks of the Yarrow. 'l'his Kurdish stream was full of trout and a supply on September 26, 2021 by was obtained for the" pot" by bombing some of the quiet backwaters with small slabs of gun-cotton and Mills grenades. Later, When we returned to the Divisional camp near Sulelmanyah, we carried on this practice as we found ourselves on two-thirds operation scale rations and short at that. However, this source of food supply was soon closed to us by a Brigade Order which read somewhat as follows: "In view of the fact that this J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-39-05-05 on 1 November 1922. Downloaded from

370 A March into Kurdistan during the Rebellion

locality may be used as a Summer Hill Station for British troops· t is desirable to protect the fishing in this river with a view to providing recreation for the troops. All bombing ot fish wil cease forthwith. Fishing by rod and line, however, is permissible." What the British troops thought of this locality as a Summer Hill . Station is unprintable"but already a British military cemetery was showing an ever increasing crop of crosses as a result of malaria and dysentery. We resigned ·ourselves to the official ration. and the trout swam merrily about undisturbed by further shocks of T.N.T. The end of nine days marching found us back again to the Khalasan Bridge camp and we all looked forward to the ten days' rest which was promised us. They were to prove days of extreme discomfort. To shield ourselves fro,m the ,blazing rays of the July sun we constructed small huts of branches, and there we lay seeking some coolness from the furnace outside. The flies were overwhelming and made one's scanty meals a disgust. Sand-flies and mosquitoes kept one awake and prickly heat was added to one's torment. Men began to fall sick with malaria and sand-fly fever and in a week we had between 400 and 500 sick in our small column alone. All of us guest. Protected by copyright. were attacked one time or another and the fever left its victims

towns in Persia. Another feature of the bazaar was the large number of on September 26, 2021 by Singer sewing machines. 'One great disappointment one never really got over was to find on our arrival at the 18th Division a complete absence of beer. To people in Britain this may seem a trivial thing, but iu a land, and at a season, when one is a living thirst, it is no small matter. Water was available, no doubt, and although this is excellent for use in an emergency, yet as a means of quenchillga continuous thirst with satisfac- J R Army Med Corps: first published as 10.1136/jramc-39-05-05 on 1 November 1922. Downloaded from

J. a.Burns 371

tion water is inferior to nicely iced beer. Asahi and Katura beer did much to ensure the success of British arms in -Mesopotamia. The East Surreys by a great feat obtained a case of beer and with sublime generosity they treated each officer in our column to a bottle. - We were now due to return to the Division at Baghdad. The column was split intotwo._ One company of Gurkhas, all the convalescents, about eighty in number, and my unit were to march- to Kirkuk~ thence across the desert to the Tigris and entrain at Baiji, the then railhead. The other and major portion of the coiumn with certain elements of the 18th Division were to march south across the Kara Dagh to Kefri and thence to the Dyalah to the Baghdad-Persian railway. Although glad to receive orders to return to our units at Baghdad, the prospect of this 150 miles march to- the railway under the late July sun was not inviting. The convalescents were put on empty A. T: carts as they were still unfit to march. Our march was via Tachludja, Bazyan and Chemchemal to Kirkuk. Prior to the insurrection, this road did not exist, being a mere caravan 'track, but now pioneers and sappers were working at high pressure con- _verting it into an excellent motor road. This is the country of the famous guest. Protected by copyright. Hamawand tribe whose raids were a constarit worry to the Turks. The Turks maintained a large garrison at Kirkuk and a smaller garrison i.n Suleimanyah" yet despite the presence of these armed forces, every caravan had to pay toll. The Turks found i,t unsafe to traverse this part of the country with a force less than a battalion and even then these fierce hillmen would -attack, cut off stragglers, and loot the baggage mules. All along- the road from Tachludja to Bazyan were grim relics of the fate of our motor convoys at the outbreak of .the rebellion. Lying at the bottom of the nullahs could be seen the blackened twisted framework of the Ford cars with parts of the charred skeletons of the. drivers. We arrived eventually at Kirkuk on August 1, but the last ten miles I was conveyed to Kirkuk by .motor ambulance, having succumbed to the combined effects of fever, septic sores and dysentery. http://militaryhealth.bmj.com/ The hospital at Kirkuk was packed with sick-malaria being very prevalent here. The officers' ward was a big base room beautifully cool, '01' so it seemed-the temperature even in this ward running up to 95°., Shade temperature being approximately 120°. Thanks to the excellent treatment I was well enough at the end of ten days to be conveyed to railhead on the Tigris by ambulance car. There I rejoined our little band and we arrived back in our camp on the river at Baghdad on August 12. . One feature of this march which surprised me was the endurance of the

dhooly bearers. Not a single man fe11 out or had to be carried and except on September 26, 2021 by for the attacks of fever at Kalasan Bridge "their hl;lalth was excellent. -In the Arab rebellion of 1920, I went with another section of the Ambulance to Hi1l5th and in the operations there from July, 1920, to February, 1921, the power of endurance of these one time " followers" was remarkable. Fortunately, the higher command in the hot weather of 1920 raised the dhooly bearer to the status of a fighting man, so that at last he was clothed and fed in a manner befitting a soldier. 24