#718 1 - 7 August 2014 20 pages Rs 50 Modifiable relations

or a country with which Nepal is so close and has such overwhelming economic dependence, what is really surprising is Fthat this is the first official visit by an Indian prime minister in 17 years. It is even more ludicrous that Nepal hasn’t had an ambassador in New Delhi for three years, or that our national airline doesn’t fly to any point in India. And the Indo-Nepal foreign minister level Joint Commission only had its first meeting since 1991 this week. The priority Nepal SPEAKING TRUTH is giving Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s visit is long overdue. TO POWER But the government has not done its EDITORIAL homework, and our expectations from the visit may be unrealistically high. PAGE 2 Nepal and India are perfectly matched for power sharing. When energy demand PARADIGM SHIFT is high in India Nepal can have surplus DEADLINE power. If the tariffs and are right, Nepal BY DAMAKANT JAYSHI can prosper from power and water sharing. It is also in India’s interest that PAGE 15 the trade is fair. RAIN OR Eco-tourism as if the planet mattered, Couchsurfi ng and how to SHINE, fi nd great deals online. POKHARA PAGE 10-11

A GENERAL’S Two LABYRINTH steps Former army chief Rookmangud Katawal tells all in soon to be released memoir. PAGE 19 back The right to equality of gender and other minorities is under nepalitimes.com threat from a regressive state.  Full profi le and excerpt on Kunda Dixit’s blog, East-West. PAGE 16-17 2 EDITORIAL 1 - 7 AUGUST 2014 #718 SPEAKING TRUTH TO POWER iven Nepal’s obsession with Indian However, much as the Indian side would Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s visit, like to downplay it, the real issue is about Gcynics say, one would think it is God water sharing, not electricity. Hydro energy is who is descending from heaven next week. The a by-product, which we happen to desperately anticipation and fixation with the visit, however, need at the moment. But the two key elements is understandable. that we should have been focusing on even For a country with which Nepal is so close and before talking about a power trade agreement has such overwhelming economic dependence, are: premium tariffs for peak power, and what is really surprising is that this is the first a formula to calculate downstream benefit official visit by an Indian prime minister in 17 sharing from large reservoir projects in Nepal. years. It is even more ludicrous that Nepal hasn’t Storing monsoon runoff for flood control had an ambassador in New Delhi for three years, and off-season augmentation of the flow of or that our national airline doesn’t fly to any point the Ganga’s Nepali tributaries is going to be in India. And, guess what: the Indo-Nepal foreign critical in coming years, even if India doesn’t minister level Joint Commission had its first press ahead with its mammoth inter-basin meeting since 1991 this week. river-linking project. The Modi visit would be The priority the government is giving the a good opportunity to revive the Pancheswor Modi visit is therefore normal and long overdue. storage scheme on the Mahakali, first agreed on But we worry that Nepal has not done its 20 years ago and stalled because governments homework, and our expectations from the visit fell and parties split over it in Nepal. We may be unrealistic. By going overboard to portray had reason to be aggrieved because of the Modi as someone with a soft spot for Nepal, we treaty’s asymmetry, but much water has flowed may be implying that we need a foreign leader to SUBHAS RAI down the Mahakali since then. The climate set things right in our own country. is now conducive for talks on sharing costs, power and Nevertheless, the man from Gujarat could pick up where It is not in India’s strategic interest to make irrigation benefits more fairly. Gurjal left off in 1997 with a good neighbor policy. The Nepal poorer through unfair deals. India will once more be tempted to press home its mutual disinterest in maintaining political relations since advantage and squeeze every last drop from the Nepali side, then has left India’s policy towards Nepal in the hands of Nepal to start on a clean slate with a forward looking policy and it will be easy to do that because our negotiators are bureaucrats and spooks for too long. They, in turn, worked of mutual trust to build co-prosperity. usually not fully prepared. However, it would not be in with shady locals with too much power and too little In Nepal, it has to start with a less mendicant mentality India’s strategic interest to make Nepal poorer and more accountability. It reached the point where recent exposés and a more strategic outlook. Our relationship has to be unstable through an unequal deal which can feed latent of the supposedly secret activities of Indian intelligence based on partnership, not charity. But when leaders of the anti-India sentiments here. in Nepal’s politics hardly raised eyebrows in Nepal, and three top parties finally met five days before Modi’s arrival Nepal and India are perfectly matched for water and caused little discomfort in New Delhi. to work out a negotiating strategy, all they could think of was power sharing. When energy demand is high in India is This is where we think the Modi visit holds the promise to ask Modiji to gift us Arun III. When will it finally dawn when Nepal can have surplus power and vice-versa. If the of a course correction that can benefit both countries. Here on our leaders that a summit-level meeting is just a photo- tariffs are right, Nepal can prosper from power and water is a chance for the top political leadership in India and op to ink deals worked out months beforehand? sharing. It is also in India’s interest that the trade is fair.

YOUR SAY www.nepalitimes.com

INDIA-NEPAL is popular here, so that could be a idea of sharing state power with the people in their moment of grief WHAT’S TRENDING Thank you NT for an insightful place to start. hitherto marginalised.’ Politicians without their permission? For once editorial (India –open, #717). I Bahadur have no caste, no religion and no try putting yourself in the shoes of the think if we utilised this opportunity, ethics. So, stop stereotyping us. lamenting mother. keeping in mind our energy and Good article. Nepal must Also, I hear people say that Bahuns Bandana Shah economic priority rather than the understand, social change is only are corrupt, but I see traffi c police outdated, ridiculous and laughable possible after economic change. from all ethnicities and castes asking This is a beautiful capture but if overtly jingoistic nationalism, we There is no point in blaming India for money from me. You are doing this I was that mother, I wouldn’t have can see some real changes in our problems if we cannot even value nation a great disservice by dividing been happy at all. In fact, I would the daily lives of the majority of and use our own resources. us. People should be punished have been very angry. people. If we miss this chance, Sam individually for their crimes, but you go Genisha Chhantel-Kaucha then only god can help with another around generalising and condemning BIKRAM RAI generation selling their bodies and Can’t talk about Modi but ‘mature particular castes and ethnicities. No I am not sure about the ethics Most liked on Facebook sometimes lives in search of cheap Nepali politician’ are not words to use leaders (whatever their caste) will work of this photo. I would be enraged Rain clouds hang over labour in god awful places around in one sentence. The best strategy in the interest of the people because if this was a picture of my family, Kathmandu as seen from Teku on the world. for Nepal is to be pragmatic Use the that would be going against their own and I did not give the photographer Sunday. Krishna S threat of going to China to pressure group. Stop trying to spew hatred. permission. India and vice versa. B Erin Lynn Most shared on Facebook As long as Nepali politicians Wandering Eric Ketis on K2 by Ayesha Shakya remain corrupt and IQ-challenged, BLACK AND WHITE The picture of the grieving mother and Indian establishment remains YARSAGUMBMA Unfortunately, the photo that won Jan hits you in the gut all right, but what a bully, you can’t expect Modi to One could apply this same generic Møller Hansen an award (Societies in right does anyone have to amplify Most popular on Twitter set things right just because he is a formula for developing yarsagumba to black and white, by Kunda Dixit, #716) someone’s grief through in the public Over-harvesting yarsagumba Hindu reactionary. many industries: is probably one he should not have domain? Hansen’s ethical judgment by Bacchu BK Dev 1. Training on picking. taken or published. A powerful image, on this particular photo is doubtful. Most visited online page 2. Ensuring no over-picking no doubt, but without consent this is D Rai Nepali steps in Norway A rising tide fl oats all boats 3. Ensuring safety of the picked mere voyeurism. equally, but Nepal needs also material. Nepalikukur by Marit Bakke to invest in its own future 4. Ensuring quality of the picked ASS development. material. I want to ask the photographer Don't under-estimate the Turd World David Seddon 5. Dispute resolution mechanisms. as well as the reviewer what is their when it comes to innovation (Life Namah in the Turd World, Backside #717). Weekly Internet Poll #718 A sharp and balanced editorial. Now, you don't have to pay to use Q. What should Nepal’s priority be in bilateral India must fi nally understand that Yes, Yarsa could be extinct in the toilet in Nepal, the toilet manager cooperation with India? bullying does not work, and in fact coming future so unsustainable pays you to pee or crap. The reason Total votes: 281 alienates the very people it needs harvesting should be banned, and is we have found value in the fertiliser to sanction future cooperation. there should be a balance. property of human waste. No one Hydropower 58.7% Nepalese people will never forget Rohan Rai wants to talk about it but building Trade 22.1% how India arm twisted us on a roadside toilet is actually a good Transportation 7.5% Kosi, Gandak and the Blockade. PROMISES TO KEEP investment for local farmers. Constitution 7.1% Getting RAW to install a puppet In Promises to keep, #717, Anurag Defecator Don’t know/Can’t say 4.6% government as is happening now Acharya writes: ‘In a political JAN MØLLER HANSEN Weekly Internet Poll #719 also doesn’t work because the landscape dominated by conservative Wildly, disgustingly funny Ass To vote go to: www.nepalitimes.com people will overthrow it. Time for male Bahuns, one cannot expect message via capturing and publishing column. Q. Does Modi’s visit of Nepal indicate a new era in some public diplomacy, India. Modi the leaders to be thrilled at the this photo. Is it ethical to capture Jurt Nepal-India relations?

Publisher and Chief Editor: Kunda Dixit Associate Editor: Tsering Dolker Gurung | Online Producer: Ayesha Shakya | Design: Kiran Maharjan Published by Himalmedia Pvt Ltd | Patan Dhoka, Lalitpur | GPO Box 7251 Kathmandu [email protected] | www.nepalitimes.com | www.himalmedia.com | Tel: 01-5005601-08 Fax: +977-1-5005518 Marketing: Arjun Karki, Surendra Sharma [email protected] | Advertorials: Ram Krishna Banjara | Subscriptions: Santosh Aryal [email protected] Nepali Times on Facebook Follow @nepalitimes on Twitter Printed at Jagadamba Press | 01-5250017-19 | www.jagadambapr.com 1 - 7 AUGUST 2014 #718 3 4 NATION 1 - 7 AUGUST 2014 #718 capsicum and salads have there are many smaller markets NOT GREEN: Technicians at pesticide residue up to three where vegetables with pesticides the lab at Kalimati Wholesale times higher than levels deemed can be sold,” she said. Market test for pesticide safe by the WHO. Organic farmer Sojan residue in vegetables this week. Nepal’s per capita pesticide Karmacharya, however, hasn’t consumption is one of the suffered a drop in sales. “Eighty lowest in the world, and most per cent of crops in Nepal are subsistence farmers in rural still chemical free,” he says, “and Nepal don’t use pesticides. But in the city there are markets for commercial farmers supplying organic produce, so consumers produce to city markets often have a choice if the government is overdose their crop and do not serious about it.” comply with the waiting period Meanwhile, early on Monday morning at Kalimati, the wholesalers were doing FOLLOW UP brisk business despite the Lethal veggies, #709 drop in demand. “They don’t want insects, they don’t want pesticides, what do they want?” requirements before harvesting. asked one angry shopkeeper. The result is that consumers “They should be punishing the are not safe, and farmers are farmers, not us. Everything has now faced with falling prices pesticides, it is just a matter of as demand drops, a survey more or less.” of markets in Patan and Kalimati The lab technicians told the this week showed. shopkeepers to dispose of the SONIA AWALE Dinesh Babu Tiwari, a Senior vegetables that failed the lab Plant Protection Officer at the test, but they seldom stay behind lab, says there are two types of to check. A scuffle broke out farmers: “Those who aren’t aware this week between officials and about pesticides and those who vendors after the government TOXIC TARKARI use pesticides knowingly. The tried to destroy tainted vegetables second type must be punished.” in Kalimati. Despite awareness and crackdown, pesticide-laced vegetables continue to poison Farmers in Tikathali of Over at the vegetable market Lalitpur district argue they have at Mangalbazar, shoppers seemed SONIA AWALE districts in the Tarai and areas consumption. In fact, a recent to use pesticides for commercial resigned to their fate. “I know surrounding Kathmandu this survey showed the most-used farming as an insurance against I shouldn’t be buying these month after tests found unsafe pesticides in Nepal are on the crop failure. Ratna Prajapati, 35, cucumbers, but what else will I uddenly the danger of levels of pesticide residue. But it banned list. says the negative publicity in the eat,” asked Gita Gangol, a college pesticides is all over the hasn’t been able to stop their sale Pramod Koirala of the media about pesticides has scared teacher, “but just to be safe, I am Smainstream media, and and buyers have been left with no Department of Food Technology off consumers. “There has been starting my own kitchen garden.” the Nepali public has a new alternative. and Quality Control says there a big drop in sales,” he told us, Twenty-two-year-old Srijana awareness about poisonous Under the personal initiative is no option but to plug the legal gesturing at his okra field ripe Regmi says she hasn’t stopped vegetables. While urban of Chief Secretary Lilamani loopholes that permit continued for picking, “we are now using buying greens. “I have to eat after consumers are faced with Poudel, the government set up a sale of banned agro-chemicals and milder pesticides.” all,” she shrugs. “We can’t tell uncertainty about what is safe to Rapid Pesticide Residue Analysis tainted vegetables. Saraswati Basnet, 52, also if these have pesticides or not, eat, farmers have been affected by Laboratory at the Kalimati The Kalimati lab found 15 grows vegetables commercially so how do I decide? Even if the falling demand for produce. market, and found 15 per cent per cent of all vegetables recently and says one testing lab will government says something is The Ministry of Agriculture of the produce analysed had tested to be contaminated. not curb pesticide misuse. “You pesticide free, I won’t believe blacklisted vegetables from pesticide levels unfit for human Some of the potatoes, tomatoes, may stop it in Kalimati, but them.”

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SEND APPLICATIONS TO: HR Department Himalmedia, GPO Box 7251, Kathmandu, Nepal [email protected] Deadline: 10 July, 2014 Shortlisted candidates will be notifi ed and called for interview. 1 - 7 AUGUST 2014 #718 BUSINESS 5 BIZ BRIEFS

Gifts galore The world’s largest telecom provider Huawei has released one of its fi nest phones – the Honor 3C – along with the chance to win smartphones, bluetooth speakers, and USB dongles as gifts. Boasting a quad-core 1.3Ghz CPU, 2GB RAM, and a 5-inch LTPS HD screen, it off ers unmatched performance. With a new 2300 mAh battery in place, you can use its 5 mega-pixel front camera that features face enhancement and a Panoramic Selfi e mode to maximum eff ect. Discover biking Combining power and mileage to perfection is Hansraj Hulaschand and Company’s new bike –the Bajaj Discover 125. Thanks to its 4-litre, DTS-i engine, the new Discover provides a mileage of 76 km per litre and also comes equipped with Nitrox suspension and petal disc brake for precision riding. For a limited time, the Discover 125 Disc is available for an introductory price of Rs 167,900 in shades of charcoal, black, blue, platinum, wine red, and silver. Sales spree Travel trade partners of Qatar Airways can now win attractive prizes for selling Qatar Air tickets. From 1 July to 31 September, all of Qatar’s IATA agents stand to win one Bajaj Pulsar 200 NS, two Samsung Galaxy Grand New mobile phone, and three Being Human gift vouchers worth Rs 5,000 based on the number of tickets they sell. The winners will be announced in October 2014. Winning performance Standard Chartered Bank, Nepal was declared winner of the ‘Global Finance - World’s Best Consumer Internet Bank Awards 2014 for Nepal’ in Asia Pacifi c category on 24 July in New York. A world-class panel of judges at Infosys evaluated all entries, who were fi nally selected by the editors of Global Finance. In March 2014, the bank was awarded ‘The Global Finance World’s Best Banks 2014 Awards for Nepal’ in emerging markets category by the same magazine. Says CEO Joseph Silvanus: “We are proud to win two awards from Global Finance in the same year. This award proves our commitment towards enhanced customer experience through digital banking.” Easy remit NMB Bank Sulav Remit have signed a pact with Joyalukkas Exchang Co., Kuwait, for acquiring in-bound remittance from the state of Kuwait. Now Nepali migrant workers in Kuwait can use the bank’s services to send money back home. The Joyalukkas Exchange is a part of Joyalukkas Group, a multi- billion dollar global conglomerate and a world renowned brand in Jewellery retail. NMB Bank will soon be starting remittance service from other Middle East Countries as well. Presently, the bank provides similar services under Sulav Remit from UAE, South Korea and Malaysia, and has over 2,000 payout locations across Nepal. 6 NATION 1 - 7 AUGUST 2014 #718 “Everyone forgot us” TUFAN NEUPANE in NEPALGANJ The revolution that was supposed to liberate his community from oppression devoured Ram Ratan Chaudhari’s family n 14 February, 2001, Ram Ratan Chaudhari was resting outside his stand or sit. Upon hearing about her son’s Jit Bahadur Tharu, Bhim Bahadur Tharu, Ohouse in Fatehpur village of Banke critical condition, Ram Ratan’s mother was Bharthari Tharu and Rati Ram Ujuri, who district when a group of Maoists jumped so stressed and depressed that she died two are all affiliated to Mohan Baidya’s CPN-M him, held a gun to his head and took him months later. Ram Ratan was still too sick party. away. His family members were locked in hospital to perform her last rites. During the conflict, Jit Bahadur Tharu inside, nobody could come to his rescue. On the 13th day of his mother’s was a Maoist leader and walked Chaudhari was then taken to a spot 200 death, the Maoists attacked his around the villages surrounded metres away. His hands were tied behind village house, took off with most by bodyguards, and adjucated his back, he kicked to the ground and of the family’s belongings and in revolutionary people’s courts. beaten black and blue. When he asked for captured his farm. His ailing father Today, he owns Ram Ratan’s seven water, the torture got worse. With a wooden Heeramani and brother-in-law bighas of land. plank placed beneath his feet, a heavy log Khushi Ram were severely beaten. Ram Ratan still has yet to receive was dropped on his legs crushing the bones. Fearing repercussions, none of the the compensation conflict victims Chaudhari fell unconscious, and was given villagers helped the injured. are entitled to, and there has been up for dead. When he came to his senses, It was only two days later that PEACE no support from the government the Maoists were gone. the APF sent a truck to take the BUILDING for his hospital expenses. “The “It took four hours for help to arrive,” injured to the same hospital in Maoist government only provided Chaudhari, who was then a technical Ratan had received a letter from the Maoists Nepalganj where Ram Ratan had been taken relief and compensation packages to their assistant, recalls. His family carried him to asking for a ‘donation’ to the party. Like a few months previously. The attack on his own supporters, not for people like us who Agaiya in Rapti from where he was taken many others he didn’t want any trouble so son, the death of his wife, the looting of his suffered under them,” he says. by ambulance to Bheri Zonal Hospital in he readied an envelope with the money and house and property and his own injuries Ram Ratan is still unable to walk Nepalganj. He got a blood transfusion, waited for it to be collected. But nobody was so traumatic that Ram Ratan’s father properly. He says: “The Maoists destroyed but the hospital couldn’t treat him so he showed up. It was only much later that Ram passed away soon after. my family and future. Everyone has was brought to Kathmandu, a 12 hour Ratan found out he had been nearly beaten After he was able to move about, albeit forgotten us.” bus journey away. Once in Kathmandu, to death for failing to pay the extortionists painfully, Ram Ratan returned to Nepalganj Chaudhari heard that the Maoists had on time. since there was nothing to return to in his come looking for him at the hospital in Chaudhari spent almost six months at village. He finally went back in 2007, and nepalitimes.com Nepalganj. Kathmandu’s Teaching Hospital. He was built a small house, but he never got his  “They should have just killed me”, #537 A few days before his abduction, Ram only able to sleep face up, and couldn’t turn, captured land back. It is now occupied by  The confl ict’s fi rst victim, #650 Although the precipitation rate has picked up, the southwest monsoon this year has been a major disappointment. Most of the Tarai, especially in the west, has got only half its quota of rains this season. The KATHMANDU midhills have also seen less than average rains. So, not only was the monsoon late, it has also been defi cient. The impact on the economy with lower agriculture and energy production will reduce growth forecasts. The pattern of overcast afternoons and night rain will continue for Kathmandu Valley.

FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY 27° 27° 26° #718 1 - 7 August 2014 18° 18° 19° Ketis on K2

THE MOUNTAIN IS YOUNG: A porter carrying goods with clouds on the summit of K2 last month (left). Maya Sherpa, Dawa Yangzum Sherpa and Pasang Lhamu Sherpa (above) in a tent at Camp 4 after summiting this week. View from Camp 2 of the Godwin-Austen glacier (below).

PICS: K2 EXPEDITION 2014

“We are finally at the base camp after successfully summiting K2. We are grateful to everybody who supported this project, especially our family members for being with us every step of the way,” wrote Pasang Lhamu on the K2 expedition website. The team AYESHA SHAKYA returns to Kathmandu in mid- August. The expedition was designed hree Nepali women climbers to raise international awareness on 26 July became the first about the impact of climate MAYA SHERPA is the team leader of the PASANG LHAMU SHERPA has 13 years DAWA YANGZUM SHERPA is from Beding K2 expedition and has climbed Mt Everest of experience in mountaineering and was in Rolwaling, has climbed Mt Everest and change on the Himalaya Tall-women team to climb twice from the north and south, and is the the fi rst Nepali woman to climb Nangpai has won medals in several Himalayan long- K2, which at 8,611m is the second and was supported by the fi rst Nepali woman to climb many Himalayan Gosum (7,321m) and is also the fi rst Nepali distance runs. highest mountain in the world. Himalayan Women Welfare peaks, including Lhotse and Cho Oyu. female mountaineering instructor. Maya Sherpa, Dawa Yangzum Society, Kathmandu-based Sherpa and Pasang Lhamu ICIMOD, Sherpa Adventure Sherpa are part of the K2 Women Gear, Nepal Mountaineering support from them.” and 1 of them died subsequently Zuckerman and Amanda Pandoan Climbing for Climate Change Association, Trekking Agencies This year marks the 60th while climbing Kanchenjunga. about the death in 2008 of 11 Expedition and summited a Association of Nepal and Cho-Oyu anniversary of the first ascent of Some 84 have been killed on the climbers on the mountain. peak that is regarded as much Expeditions among others. K2 by an Italian expedition led mountain, and K2 is second only Following their successful more difficult than Mt Everest. “Although there were quite a by Ardito Desio on 31 July, 1954. to Annapurna I in the fatality rate ascent of K2, the team is planning The mountain, which is on the few sponsors for this expedition, Nearly 350 people have climbed among Himalayan peaks. to climb Mt Kanchenjunga, the Pakistan-China border has killed there was no support from the the mountain, and only seven of Two Nepali guides, Chhiring world’s third highest mountain. one in every four people trying to Nepali government,” said Pasang them were women till the Nepalis Dorje Sherpa and Pasang Lama climb it. Of the 86 who have died Tamang a staffer with the K2 brought that total to 10. Of the were involved in a dramatic rescue nepalitimes.com on the mountain in the past 80 project, “perhaps with this success 7 women who have climbed K2, on K2 and are the subject of the  All eyes on K2 #709  Himalayan spring, #495 years, six are Nepalis. there might be some sort of 4 of them died on the mountain book, Buried in the Sky by Peter 8 EVENTS DINING Muna Madan, Darbar Restaurant and Bar, Nepal’s favourite epic on stage again. Rs new outlet specialising in delicious 100/200/300/500, runs till 31 July, Rastriya Japanese food and drinks, and also Nachghar, Jamal Continental and Nepali staples; spacious parking and a lush green garden. Impression, 7am to 9pm, Hotel Kaze Darbar, An exhibition of the works of Kamalpokhari, (01)4420737 photographer Aakash Pradhan. 10am to 5pm, Café Mitini, Lajimpat, Vootoo, (01)4002070 the new home of Newari cuisine, as well as a continental menu for those who don’t Untied Women, want an adventure. Lajimpat, (01)4005222 Haus Café, Come hear from fair trade producer pastas, pizzas, desserts, Haus does Manushi on their work empowering Natsul, everything with equal perfection. Pulchok women’s lives through tie dye production. a Korean restaurant for all things Charya Nritya, 1 to 14 August, Café & Shop Mitini, Lajimpat Cleaning Changu, barbeque, from succulent pork to crunchy Phat Kath, Experience Kathmandu’s version of dance Calling for volunteers to help clean up vegetables; you can have delicacies off ers French-ish food, a takeaway meditation under the tutelage of Prajwal one of Kathmandu's oldest temples. cooked right at your own table or partake creperie, low tables and hookahs for Ratna Vajracharya and immerse yourself 2 August, 10am onwards of the dedicated barbeque pit. Lakeside, hippies, tables and chairs for others, in nature, consciousness and compassion. (061)229198 and a formidable hip hop soundtrack for Rs 1,600, 1 to 14 September, 12.15pm, Frame of mind everyone. Thamel inneradventuretravel.com A 20-day workshop on fi lmmaking where amateurs will be taught 6 days of Chongqing Fast Food, BFF, theory followed by 20 days of shooting, gear up for some mouth watering Chinese Adopt a dog from Animal Nepal’s shelter with emphasis on planning, writing, dishes like Sour and Spicy Pork and Kung – the local mixed breeds are healthier and producing short fi lms. 50 per cent Pao Chicken. Thamel and better adjusted to local conditions discount for female fi lmmakers. than pedigrees. Rs 150, animalnepal.org, Flagbearers, Rs 3,000, 5 to 25 August, 11am to 4pm, Ghar-e-kabab, (01)5538068, 9841334537 Be one of 30,000 participants to form the onionfi lms.blogspot.com, 9851014894, serving the best of north Indian cuisine, largest human national fl ag and make it 9848835015 with live Sarod recitals on some days. to the Guinness Book of World Records. Hotel Annapurna, Darbar Marg 9 August, 6 to 9am, Tundikhel, Kathmandu Newa film festival, support local fi lmmakers, skip the Dragon Chinese Restaurant, mall, and come enjoy an open-air fi lm try the Kung Pao Pork if alone and the Mai screening every evening for a week. Cao if with company. 6 to 12 September, Janabahal, Kel Tol, Lakeside, Pokhara Kathmandu Headspin, Maya Devi Village Restaurant, Take part in the ultimate B-boying Fleeting world, enjoy a BLT sandwich breakfast with competition in Nepal and compete with an exhibition of installation art, fi lm, and Gai Jatra, fresh fruit, muesli and curd in the lap dancers from New Delhi and Mumbai to drawing by Tiff any Singh. commemorating those who passed away of a Phewa Tal sunrise, and visit the The Village Cafe, win Rs 25,000 in cash prizes. Rs 250, 4 to 12 August, Siddartha Art Gallery, in the last year, and also Nepal's annual magnifi cent vultures in their enclosures. authentic Newari food that comes straight 10 August, St. Xavier’s School, Jawalakhel Baber Mahal Revisited LGBT pride march. 11 August Pokhara, 9806647917, mayadevivillage.com from the heart. Pulchok 1 - 7 AUGUST 2014 #718 9 MUSIC GETAWAYS

Bongo fury Master Colombian multi- instrumentalist Carlos Balanta, aka Baterimba, will be collaborating with Nepali percussionist Milesh Tandukar for an energetic show not to be missed. 1 August, 5.30 to 8.30pm, Soaltee Crowne Plaza

House of Music, In the mood For fi ve days a week, this bar and Party with DJ Pritis, Channel V India's restaurant is packed with musical events offi cial DJ, and a host of other disc that include open mics, karaoke and jam spinners from Nepal. The Last Resort, sessions. Open Tuesdays to Saturdays, Rs 1,500 incl. one drink and dinner, 1 August, test your limits with canyoning, hiking, 4pm to 11pm, Amrit Marg, Thamel, 6pm onwards, Moods Studio Lounge, Blue rock climbing, rafting, mountain biking 9851075172 Bird Mall, Tripureswor, (01)4215740/20 and bungee jumping. Bhotekosi, Sindhupalchok, (01)4700525/1247 Trance'n'dance Eleven hours of nonstop trance music, Barahi Jungle Lodge, with DJs from far and wide. the fi rst eco-jungle lodge of Chitwan 9 August, 1pm onwards, 1905, Kantipath, directly overlooks the Chitwan National 9808263228, 9843402821 Park. Spa, boutique guest room, individual and two-in-one private villas, including a suite with a private swimming pool. Andrauli, West Chitwan, barahijunglelodge.com Waterfront Resort, head to this eco-friendly resort to make Heavy friggin’ gig, your stay right in front of Phewa Lake. Party with the underbelly of the local Sedi Height, Pokhara, (61)466 303/304, music scene, featuring Shannon Scam, 9801166311, Wakk Thuu, 13th Street, Strangle and [email protected] other wildly agitated rock combos. Rs 100, 1pm onwards, Jamsthan, Neydo Monastery, Talchikhel, Lalitpur Lipan conjuring a monastery and guest house, Neydo is Local musicians Kamero will be home to many signifi cant religious sites Fusion Night, performing a tribute show to legendary of the great siddhas. Leave your troubles Ninad with his fusion sound, prog-rockers Tool. behind and book a room. 7pm onwards, 25 July, Rs 300/500, 23 August, 3pm onwards, Purple Pharping, Kathmandu Places Restaurant & Bar, Thamel Haze Rock Bar, Thamel, 9843664132 www.neydohotel.com/contact/html Rain or shine, Pokhara is fi ne Tourism as CLARE HENNIG in POKHARA perfect, there are waterfalls everywhere, and when the snow-tipped mountains peek out of if the planet the clouds in the mornings the views are be spectacular. Pokhara is also cheaper because of the monsoon discounts. okhara is one of the most scenic “Like most places, we offer monsoon mattered places in the world. Chinese season prices,” said Madhav Timilsina of Blue guidebooks list it among the ten Sky Travel and Tours. “For those travelling top places to see before you die. MERILIN PIIPUU on a budget, off-season is better. It’s quieter, Yet, the valley nestled in the in KASKI less people, and there are always discounts.” lap of the Annapurnas and dotted with lakes P For some visitors, particularly those gets bad press in the rainy season. It records coming from West Asia or hotter parts nearly 3,000mm of rain a year, double what of India, Pokhara could sell itself as a Kathmandu gets, and tourists are told to enerally, tourism is not a very eco-friendly rainy destination especially after its new avoid it in the monsoon. enterprise. But one family near Pokhara has international airport is completed in four True, clouds hide the snow-covered converted its organic farm into a tourist years and can offer direct flights. G peaks, flights can be erratic, and it is the destination that gives more than it takes from the “Nepal can benefit from marketing off season for paragliding and trekking. But fragile environment. monsoon tourism in the desert states,” said the monsoon downpours in Pokhara are the ‘Eco-tourism’ has become a buzzword, but here the representative of a Gulf-based airline in stuff of legend, they blend land, lake and sky at the Annapurna Eco-Village the Adhikari family Kathmandu. “However, the problem has been in one very wet world. has successfully combined organic agriculture and the unreliability of domestic flights in the Previously, the contrast between the income generation in which the visitor, the village rainy season.” summer high season and the monsoon low economy and the environment all benefit. For other visitors, however, the rain is season was stark, remembers Kiran Tuladhar “Eco-tourism means living in harmony with merely tolerated. “I knew that it was monsoon of Atithi Resort, one of Pkhara’s newest nature as well as with your family and community. season, but I didn’t know what a monsoon hotels. “Before, when the rains started, It is about helping each other,” says Bishwo Raj was before I arrived,” Kate Middleton, an the tourists stopped,” said Tuladhar. “But Adhikari, 43, eldest of three brothers whose Australia volunteer, said with a laugh. Pokhara is now booming even in the ancestors have farmed these terraced slopes for at Lisa Ashley, an American, expressed monsoon. Lakeside is a happening place.” least nine generations. concern about the weather preventing her Although general consensus holds group from going places. Still, she says: “I’d that Pokhara is better to visit during the recommend coming anyways – it’s green, autumn, the monsoon has its benefits. The everything is blooming , it’s lovely.” mountains are lush and green, visibility is

Probably the most important security information is Bishwo and his younger brothers Bednidhi and Purna (above) regard their father Shiva Lal Adhikari, the reference that guests and hosts write about each other. FACTS AND FIGURES who is 71, as their inspiration in environment- ‘Narayan is one of the very few Nepali guys who I can say with ABOUT COUCHSURFING: friendly farming and tourism. Shiva Lal has taught Couchsurfi ng in Nepal 100% sure that I would trust my life,’ writes Sofi a Palma, a 24 The average age of Couchsurfers: 28 his sons everything there is to know about agro- forestry, fruits and vegetables. Bednidhi’s wife, year-old from Portugal who stayed with Narayan Paudel (26) 53% men 47% women. magine opening your door to a stranger, not knowing anything in Pokhara. Malati leads a village mother’s group, makeing There are 19.1 million friend-links created on the organic soap and teaching this skill to cooperatives about him or her. Furthermore, this stranger comes from There are hundreds of Couchsurfi ng hosts in Pokhara Couchsurfi ng website in near-by villages. Ia totally diff erent culture. Yet 7 million travellers all over the who have no references. Paudel made his profi le with the There are 44 Couchsurfers living in Antarctica The motto of the Adikhari brothers is to “make world have joined Couchsurfi ng, a new way to see the world help of a Danish friend, which probably helped him to receive The most nights hosted by a single Couchsurfer: 2,593 people happy” and they spread contentment to without being a “tourist”. a positive image to start with. But most of all, he seems to the tourists who stay at their village as well as Surfers stay for free in homes of local members of the impress people by taking them to his village and showing the to farmers in the neighbourhood of these lush green mountains. With income from visitors, the worldwide network. Being against all the rules of the market traditional way of living. family has invested in environmental awareness, economy, one may ask why people do it? Is it a hippie fad and “It is a cultural exchange, a way to get friends from all over “Experience the world in a way money can’t buy" is the education and health care in the village. a reaction to the over-commercialisation of tourism? And what the world,” explained Paudel, who has hosted strangers from offi cial motto on the Couchsurfi ng webpage. The concept The Adhikari brothers have used their exposure happened with the famous sentence ‘do not trust strangers’? from far and wide. “My dream is to go to Italy one day, but is revolutionary, and people disillusioned with the artifi cial to the outside world to install a piped water Yet, with the countless possibilities of online-friendships, hospitality that you have to buy, seem to be opting for it. system where water is pumped with solar energy because it is not so easy for us to travel, Couchsurfi ng thus to storage tanks that supply drinking water to the the concept of a stranger has also changed. Before joining the becomes a way to bring culture into your home.” In that sense, Couchsurfi ng is a good example of Couchsurfers, you need to provide some information about Paudel added that he has nothing to lose, but a lot to glocalization, blurring the border between the local and yourself, so it is a bit like Facebook for travellers. But how can you gain. His biggest fear is not being robbed, but making people global and removing money from the equation. trust that the information people provide is true? comfortable in his modest home. Merilin Piipuu in Pokhara VIRTUAL DESTINATION okhara has always tried to break free from its image Raniban come from websites such as Expedia, Agoda as Nepal’s second destination after Kathmandu and Tripadvisor for attracting guests. Kiran Tuladhar at Peven though it has much more going for it: it is Atithi Resort agreed that the future lay in more online much cleaner, more scenic and relaxed, and less polluted promotion to expand Pokhara’s marketing effort. than Nepal’s chaotic capital. Since 40 per cent of the occupancy in the high-end With its new airport, tourists can fly directly to hotels in Pokhara are from China, travel experts say Pokhara and avoid Kathmandu altogether. And, thanks Pokhara companies would do well to have their websites to the Internet, Pokhara’s hotels and travel companies also in Mandarin to overcome the language barrier. are already benefitting from direct online bookings and Indian tourists, except those that come in groups, are word-of-mouth recommendations of visitors. also booking hotels online. “We have a Facebook page to promote the hotel,” But the real future for off-season Pokhara tourism said Ankur Shrestha of Raniban Retreats, “and our guests are going to be Nepalis. Shrestha believes that in a year recommend us to their friends.” or two, domestic tourism will overtake the number Shrestha says more than half of the bookings for foreigners visiting Pokhara. Escape the rain

or a rainy afternoon, when you’d rather stay The other one is the International Mountaineering warm and dry but still want leave the shelter ofMuseum which has artefacts from various historical Fyour hotel room, head to the Gurkha Museum.Himalayan expeditions and the chronicles of daring The three-floor museum documents the historyascents. of the Gurkha regiments from the Sepoy Mutiny of 1857 through to the two World Wars right up to theThe Gurkha Museum involvement of Nepali soldiers in the conflicts inwww.gurkhamuseum.org.np the Gulf and Afghanistan. Uniforms, khukri knives,Opening hours: 8am-4:30 pm medals, photographs and other military items areRs 200 for foreign visitors on display, some of them donated by the GurkhaRs 20 for Nepalis Museum in the UK. whole village. All waste water is treated, and farm “Pokhara has a lot of interesting places forThe Mountain Museum waste is recycled to generate methane from biogas tourists,” said the museum’s assistant managerwww.internationalmountainmuseum.org plants. Thak Bahadur Pun, “but our museum is one of theRs 300 for foreign visitors The income from farming and tourism has few places that focus on history.” Rs 50 for Nepalis also helped stem out-migration of young people. Basanta Adhikari, 33, worked in Malaysia for 12 years but came back to join his cousins in the Adhikari farm. Most of the milk, eggs, meat, honey, rice and vegetables offered to tourists is bought from producers in the village. “That was the best decision of my life,” says Basanta who is now a chef at the Eco-Village, “when I was in Malaysia I missed my family so much, I left when my son was 4 months old and came back when he was three. I tell young people don’t leave. The Queen’s Forest Stay here, you can grow gold in the Nepali soil.” Most of the visitors come hear after being f the word ‘retreat’ conjures up a place high in the mountains, The lack of a television did not prove a hindrance as night recommended by previous guests, and are tranquillity, spectacular views and where you can wake up each fell. The lights of Pokhara Valley twinkled below and the stars delighted. “This is like coming home,” says morning with the clouds beneath your feet … then Raniban were out in the clear night sky as guests conversed quietly Izaskun Martin, a 55 year-old Spanish tourist, “this I family really cares about nature”. in Pokhara fi ts the defi nition. over candlelit dinners. One night isn’t enough to unwind and Annapurna Eco-Village doesn’t just offer Opened three years ago, Raniban is away from the hustle detoxify at Raniban Retreat. There is a spa, organic vegetable and yoga, meditation and massages. It encourages and bustle of Lakeside and situated on the forested ridge west coff ee gardens, lots of hiking trails, and free health checkups for guests to be involved in the family farm, milking of town. It has only 10 spacious and cosy rooms designed to take guests and women from neighbouring villages. cows, taking English classes at the village school, in at a single glance the magnifi cent sweep of the Annapurnas on Even during the monsoon, with the clouds hanging low, learning to weave bamboo baskets and make flour at the water mill. the northern horizon and Phewa Lake spread out below. Raniban springs surprises when the clouds suddenly part to Annapurna Eco-Village “This is a real retreat,” manager Ankur Shrestha said, “from reveal Machapuchre towering above for a tantalising moment, Astam, Dhital-8, Kaski up here you can’t hear any city noise at all.” made all the more precious because of it is so brief. At breakfast www.ecovillagenepal.com The hotel has a strict non-disturbance policy, guests are of apple pancakes and hot tea, parting with this exquisite retreat discouraged from talking loudly, there are no tv sets, no generator was such a sweet sorrow. and all lights and appliances are solar powered. Louise Evangeline Ng 12 DAWN OF THE PLANET OF THE APES t is hard to describe exactly be fully evolved, feel compassion. savages, and savants. why The Dawn of the Planet For those who need a bit of a This film is difficult to watch Iof the Apes is so disturbing. catch up: the main character in for the thinking viewer. It drives HAPPENINGS Perhaps it begins with the very both films is Caesar (played and home, with efficiency, great premise: humans experiment on voiced by the wonderful Andy skill, and feats of technology, apes, apes become as intelligent Serkis), a highly evolved ape who the horror of living in a modern as humans, both parties treat each was lovingly nursed and treated world where humans think other and themselves shamefully. as a family member by a human of themselves as the superior If this sounds unbearably painful family in the first film. As Dawn species and the rightful to you, then don’t bother going to starts, human kind has been inheritors of the earth even while mostly eradicated by a virus. we simultaneously monger wars, The only real form of civilisation commit genocides, and shoot is the highly sophisticated ape down civilian planes. community that has taken over Ours is a planet now ridden the famed Muir north of San with industrial waste, a planet Francisco. where evolved humans still The apes live in peace, content include those of us who gleefully MUST SEE that they will never again be kick dogs, spit on the street, Sophia Pande mistreated or experimented upon and rape, murder, and pillage.

by people (Caesar and his fellow The Dawn of the Planet of the ANANDA RAM DONGOL watch the film, you’ll find yourself hyper intelligent apes are the Apes, even though difficult to SAY CHEESE: Home Minister Bam Dev Gautam takes a photo of UML Chair properly traumatised, particularly result of laboratory testing), but stomach, is perhaps necessary KP Oli (seated) at Kathmandu airport on his return from medical treatment in because this sequel to the 2011 frequently speak of the horror viewing. It is a mirror that Singapore on Wednesday. Rise of the Planet of the Apes is of having lived under humans. reflects the ugliest aspects of so technologically sophisticated Imagine, then, the reaction when humanity right back upon us – that all of the ape characters are two of the apes come across a watching it, therefore, requires jarringly, viscerally humanised, bellicose human in the forest and quite a bit of bravery. beating home the message that are subsequently shot at. Thus what we think of as “humanity” begins a horrific war between the nepalitimes.com is really just the ability to reason, apes and humans, both factions  Trailer think, and, now as we pretend to of which harbour hawks, doves,

DEVAKI BISTA FUNERAL CORTEGE: Singing nun Ani Choying Drolma drives in the procession bearing the body of Kunsiug Shamar Rinpoche as it went from Kathmandu airport to a monastery in Raniban where his last rites will be performed. The government finally allowed the body to brought to Nepal after much dithering.

BIKRAM RAI HUGE STINK: Holy men walk past garbage piled up on the street on Tuesday. Garbage collection in Kathmandu Valley has ground to a halt because the dirt road to the only landfill site at Okharpauwa is damaged by rains.

DEVAKI BISTA FLYING COLOURS: Flight attendants from Dragon Air present gifts to students at the Bal Sarathi Academy in Tilganga on Tuesday. 1 - 7 AUGUST 2014 #718 13 FLY WITH A CLEAR CONSICENCE f you are flying to Nepalganj or Dhangadhi on Yeti Airlines, you don’t need to feel Iguilty or worry anymore about your carbon footprint or contributing to Nepal’s trade deficit. The airline has been setting aside Rs 40 from every rountrip ticket from Kathmandu to these destinations in western Nepal. In a span of four years, the Green Project has planted and protected nearly

80 hectares of forest. Last week, members PICS: BASIL EDWARD TEO of the local community, Nepal Army and Armed Police Force, joined hands to add The Green Project has so far reforested 37-year-old. another 1000 tree saplings in the area of plots in Kanchanpur, Kailali and Doti districts. Building on its success in Dhangadhi, Uttar Rameshworam in Dhangadi. The The Tarai region has lost nearly 10 per cent Yeti Airlines initiated another reforestation project plans to plant 20,000 saplings of its forest cover in the past tweo decades. project in Solukhumbu this year. Said Regmi: this year. Bhagwati Hamal, a district secretary “We are committed to reducing the impact of “As an airline company, I know that at Women for Human Rights, was initially carbon emissions on the environment, and we release a significant amount of carbon skeptical of the project when she first we wish our customers who have flown with emissions into the atmosphere, so the participated in it five years ago. “When I us to these sectors also feel good that they Green Project is our way of giving back to first helped with planting, I didn’t think have also contributed to the cause.” the environment,” said Roshan Regmi of there would be much change, but now I see Basil Edward Teo Yeti Airlines. greenery all around my home-town,” said the www.yetiairlines.com Samay by the Lake they ate, and some of them mustard. jumped into the water mid- Strangely, all our servings were meal. With the searing summer served in portions of three – which sun beating down on us, it happened to be the number of was difficult to resist the guests at the table – but it may be temptation to join them. useful to ask about size of portions We started with a before ordering. Banana Lassi (Rs 175) after Samay also has a bar, and reading on the menu that the we couldn’t help reflecting how bananas come from Samay’s perfect the place must be in the own kitchen garden. The well- evening with the sun setting over blended lassi was smooth and the lake. We all raised a toast with thick, and we were delighted to our lassi glasses and agreed it find that they did not skimp on the would be worth coming back. bananas. Our order of Carp (Rs 380) Louise Evangeline Ng The waiter recommended the grilled with sautéed vegetables and Samay Buffalo Wings (Rs 300) - mashed potatoes soon followed. How to get there: Samay is located spicy, crispy chicken wings served Samay boasts that the fish are at the west end of Phewa lake, with a side of yogurt, and we fresh from Phewa lake itself, and along the way to Pame. After e found ourselves in the to lie down and take a nap immediately got down to dirtying indeed the fish was tender, and entering Khapaundi, it’s the first middle of Pokhara on before dessert arrives. This place our hands. The wings were went well with the mashed restaurant on your left. Wa hot day, not wanting takes the definition of ‘relaxation’ generously spiced, and the plain potatoes. to do any touristic activities but to a whole new level. yogurt complemented the spices The fillet servings were non desperate to have a cool sit down The tables in the lakeside well, making it the right amount bony - a pleasant change from the and relaxing meal out of the sun. dining area are only a few steps of sweet and spicy needed to perk trouts found back in Kathmandu – So we made our way to Samay By away from the water. A group our tastebuds up for the rest of the and we were able to enjoy the The Lake, a small restaurant with nearby was actually fishing while meal. delicate meat without interruption. a beautiful location right next to The Lemon Chicken (Rs 370), Pokhara’s languid, lagoon-like however, fell short of expectations. Phewa Lake. The grilled chicken breast Samay is primarily an outdoor was barely visible, drowning in restaurant, featuring a cosy and a thick yellow gravy, which we sheltered sit down area, with low assumed to be lemon sauce. tables and big cushions on the However, it turned out to be floor where you can stretch your more mustard than anything else. legs out and lounge around. This is Nevertheless, it was an interesting the kind of place where no one dressing for the meat, especially would bat an eyelid if you decided if you are partial to the taste of 14 1 - 7 AUGUST 2014 #718

GIZMO by YANTRICK The Amarnath Yatra Light as air lmost all high altitude pilgrimages are n 2010, Apple introduced the newest member of the MacBook family, the Acharacterised by very rapid aptly named MacBook Air. The perfect blend of performance, portability ascents by large congregations Iand design had tech-heads around the world drooling over conventional leading to high rates of acute boxy laptops. Behold April 2014, and the latest iteration of the MacBook air is mountain sickness (AMS). In still the benchmark against which all ultrabooks are compared. addition there may be tremendous The new MacBook Air keeps the same feel as the previous generations, a overcrowding on the trail that look that still rivals the newest laptops in terms of design. As with the previous is not seen in the usual non- MacBook Air models, the new version still sports the now all-too-familiar pilgrim trekking trails in the Nepal wedged aluminium construction, which feels as sturdy as ever. The MacBook Himalaya. Air is available in 2 screen sizes, but both the 11-inch and 13-inch versions of The Amarnath Yatra in Kashmir the MacBook Air have the same thickness, ranging from 0.11-inch to 0.68- is among the more dangerous high inch, and both weigh in under 3 lbs. The backlit keyboard and trackpad are altitude pilgrimages in the Indian the same as on the previous models. In particular, the trackpad remains the Himalaya. Situated at about 4,000 standard by which all others are judged, aided by the brilliant multi-touch and m, this Shiva cave annually attracts gesture-enabled features. The 11-inch MacBook Air sports a display of a phenomenal 600,000 pilgrims. 1366 × 768 (135 PPI), while the 13 inch MacBook sports a 1440 × 900 (128 There is another shorter one- other high altitude studies may PPI) screen, resulting in the clear, bright and vibrant screen that we have come day route from Baltal, but this is not be generalisable for pilgrims. to expect from Apple. potentially more dangerous. The Female pilgrims may be more at The MacBook Air runs on Apple’s latest OS X 10.9 (Mavericks) operating Indian government is trying to risk for AMS because they may software, and is powered by a 1.4 GHz dual-core Intel Core i5 processor spread awareness about AMS and take fasting more seriously than (fourth generation), 4 GB of 1600 MHz LPDDR3 SDRAM, and a Intel HD other dangers, and the Health males and thus become very Graphics 5000 card. The Mac OS takes some getting used to, if you have Ministry is setting up a committee dehydrated. Among non-pilgrims, switched from a Windows PC, but after overcoming the initial learning DHANVANTARI curve, you should be whizzing along in no time. The MacBook Air is more Buddha Basnyat, MD to effectively train the health high altitude epidemiological care professionals along the trail. studies show younger people than powerful enough for even the mainstream users amongst us, and Web Obviously, AMS is an important are less susceptible to AMS. surfi ng, social media, HD video playback is extremely smooth and fast. This year the Yatra started on 28 cause of death and those looking One important explanation June and culminates next week on after the pilgrims have to be well may be that older pilgrims are the full moon night of 10 August. versed in this field. generally less fit and have to exert Janai Purnima is also the day when But in addition, many pilgrims themselves significantly more our Gosainkunda Yatra in the are poorly clad for this trek and than someone who may be fitter. Langtang region at 4,300 m ends suffer from the potentially fatal Excessive exertion may lead to with a holy dip in the surrounding effects of hypothermia (cold AMS. lake. Both Yatras are in honour of temperature). Incredibly many Studies of Amarnath Yatra Shiva. At Amarnath on the last day, of these partially-hypothermic pilgrims show that coronary about a hundred sadhus take a pilgrims also take holy dips in artery disease, complications Storage on the MacBook Air is on the lower side, but that is due to the sacred mace to the Shiva shrine. icy rivers in the region. Ensuring of diabetes and peptic ulcer Solid State Drives (SSD) that Apple has packed in the MacBook Air. Macbook In 2011 and 2012 the Amarnath that pilgrims have adequate warm disease are some of the common, Airs are available only with 128GB or 256GB of internal storage, but one can Yatra witnessed the death of over clothing is very important, but important reasons for admission only realize the power and speed of SSDs if one has actually used it. 100 pilgrims each year due to many Sadhus may be reluctant to to hospitals during the trip. The legendary battery life of Apple products continues with the Macbook Air, altitude sickness, hypothermia, wear warmer clothes. If you are planning an which lasts a whopping 9 hours of intensive use, while a FaceTime HD (720p) and exacerbations of pre-existing Unlike trekkers and Amarnath Yatra this season, it camera, Bluetooth 4.0, two USB 3.0 slots, one Thunderbolt port, and one illnesses. In 1996, about 250 mountaineers, pilgrims have more may be wise to learn more about SD card slot (13 inch only) take care of your communication and connectivity pilgrims died, and the dangers pre- existing illnesses (such as the prevention of altitude sickness needs. are compounded by threats from uncontrolled diabetes) which may and hypothermia. In addition, any militants in Kashmir. Last year, make matters worse when they pre-existing illnesses (diabetes, Yantrick’s Verdict: A unique blend of power, performance and there were a lot fewer fatalities. ascend to high altitude, especially coronary artery disease) should portability, the MacBook Air is the ultimate on-the-go full From Srinagar in Kashmir, as many also may fast along be well controlled and it helps to laptop, but at a price point that may be out of reach for some. pilgrims go to Pahalgam by road the way. Some of the important be reasonably physically fit before The base model (11 inch, 128 GB) is priced at around the Rs 1 transport and then start their 5 to risk factors for AMS in pilgrims the trip. May you be rewarded lakh mark, but this is the premium pricing that we have come 6 days trek to the cave where the are gender and age, hence AMS with the magnificent scenery and to expect from Apple for a market-leading premium product. frozen Shiva Lingam is enshrined. risk factors derived from many a spiritual high. 1 - 7 AUGUST 2014 #718 NATION 15

MODIFIABLE RELATIONS The Narendra Modi visit next week affords the opportunity for a paradigm shift in bilateral ties

has obliged because it opens states bordering Nepal and which Nepal up to do as it pleases here. may be led by parties other than We have been paying a heavy those ruling in the centre. price for the absence of formal The choice for both sides reciprocity, and short-sightedness is clear: either continue to of our leaders. Nepal’s waters are be overbearing, do nothing, flowing into India with neither complain, rabble-rouse, or seize country using its potential the opportunity. benefits. @damakant Indian intelligence has blatantly transgressed all diplomatic norms in Nepal, and the Indian Embassy distributes aid directly to the districts. The Chinese and the others have not just been following in India’s foot-steps, but are now trying ne of the objectives of day visit beginning August 3, and India. to match it. Indian External Affairs in the longer term to explore new According to Nepal Rastra Instead of requesting Modi OMinister Sushma Swaraj’s opportunities to improve ties. Bank’s 11-month figures ending for a gift of mega project, why visit to Nepal this week was The expectations of change and mid-May for the last fiscal year, not enter into an agreement to demonstrate that the new euphoria are palpable. for every rupee of export to India, that is in the interest of both BJP government in New Delhi While it is too early to predict we import 13 rupees worth. By countries? Asking India is charting a new course in just how long-lasting Modi’s mid-June our imports from India to show magnanimity bilateral relations as part of her initiative will be and how it will for 2013-2014 stood at NPR 337 in investments should prime minister’s stated goal of a be implemented on the ground, it billion. Our petroleum imports not be a precondition. neighbours-first policy. is an opening that Nepalis should from India contribute the most No country would grab with both hands. If Nepal to this deficit and is growing agree to a pact that is not wants a gift of a mega-project because of the volume of imports in its national interest. or India’s magnanimity, what as well as prices. So, we continue For a federal government should be our reciprocal gesture? to sell our USD reserves to buy in New Delhi, there is What the Swaraj visit has done is India currency from India to pay the added pressure to put the onus on Nepal to make the Indians. One does not have to of keeping in mind the Modi visit a fruitful one. be an economist to realise what the interests of the THE DEADLINE It is time for Nepal to walk this means. Damakant Jayshi the talk. Politicians, academics, That is the real challenge journalists do not tire of before Nepal’s policy-makers and mentioning the special relations leaders: to find a viable solution That is recognition of that exists between the two to the trade deficit. This can’t widespread concern and public countries and peoples. But what be done by hollow anti-Indian discussion in Nepal’s public is more obvious is the acrimony, nationalism, or slogans. It needs sphere of the growing role of distrust and planted stories in the a viable and strategic policy to Indian intelligence agencies in media in both countries. There boost exports. ‘handling’ politicians, business isn’t a shortage of journalists on So far, Nepal has always and media in Nepal. The fact both sides willing to do the dirty sought concessions on trade and that the actions of a supposedly job of spinning and planting leaks exports which India has granted, secretive spy agency is debated just to have access to the high and with a few exceptions. True, so openly is detrimental to both mighty. the arrangement is not free from sides. The result is that India feels occasional hurdles from different Therefore, Swaraj’s promise of betrayed despite doing so much bodies in India. More demeaning dealing with Nepal at the highest for its northern neighbour and is the fact that our politicians – level has been a welcome change, Nepal lives in chronic suspicion from all major political parties and the message went down well of interference and bullying without exception – try to cut in Kathmandu. It has laid the from the south. But what should deals that suit their personal groundwork for Indian Prime really concern Nepal is its ambitions. Minister Narendra Modi’s two- ballooning trade deficit with The Indian establishment 16 NATION 1 - 7 AUGUST 2014 #718 Nothing about us, without us Equality in The right to equality of gender and other A government committee is ready to minorities is under threat from a regressive state submit recommendations on legalising n a true democracy the main mantra to ensure inclusion is ‘nothing about us without us’. But, too often in Nepal, for the same-sex marriage, but it is a long road Imarginalised it is always ‘there is nothing for us and it’s always without us’. BASIL EDWARD TEO new law could pave the way for From 2009-2012, Nepal’s gender minorities were invited for amendments to discriminatory their inputs into national policy and budget. But since then there codes. hasn’t been a single rupee allocated in the budget to support ore than three years since Sujan Panta, a lawyer with gender minorities. This year, too, the NC-UML coalition left us out the government formed the group, Blue Diamond of the Red Book. a committee to make Society explains: “With the laws When taxing citizens M recommendations on legislation today, if a gay man dies, his the government does not for same-sex marriage, the team partner will not be entitled to discriminate, but when assuring is finally ready to submit its his property which can only be citizens of their rights, the findings to the Prime Minister’s transferred to kin because the government wants to know your office in a month. government does not recognise gender. And if you are third The committee studied same-sex marriage.” Similarly, gender, you cannot go to school, legislation in Nordic countries, its only sons and daughters are COMMENT you cannot get a passport, you potential impact on Nepali society entitled to a family’s inheritance Sunil Babu Pant cannot get married, you cannot if legalised, and also interviewed by law, and there is no provision apply for job, you cannot join stakeholders, but cannot reveal for the third gender. the police/army/bureaucracy, you cannot access a loan or its final recommendations for the Same-sex marriage, if development programs, you cannot open your business or register proposed legislation. legalised, would also mean that your property. “We conducted questionnaires homosexual couples might one There has been a worrying trend of sidelining the needs and for members of the LGBT (lesbian, day be able to adopt children rights of Nepal’s LGBT population in the last few years, and the gay, bisexual and transgender) legally. Currently, couples need to government is regressing from its previous progress through community, their parents, law prove that they are infertile before activism and Supreme Court decisions. enforcement officers and human they can apply for adoption, The Law Ministry, under the NC’s Narhari Acharya, is trying rights activists in the past three making it almost impossible for to enact punitive laws that re-criminalise LGBT relationships, years,” said committee member same-sex couples to adopt. A completely overturning previous Supreme Court decisions. After Kabiraj Kahnal. legal stamp on same-sex marriage, the first Constituent Assembly was dissolved in 2012, there is not a The previous attempt to pass a it is believed, would encourage single person from the third gender community in the bureaucracy, similar bill on same-sex marriage longer-lasting relationships in the ministry, parliament or any other decision-making level. was thwarted by the dissolution LGBT community. of the legislature-parliament in Bishwaraj Adhikari, 24, May 2012. Activists believe the (below) is in a two-year long Hidden in

Before it passes any laws about us, the government should talk to the minority gender community. This new draft provision of civil and criminal codes prepared by the Law Ministry not only defines homosexuality, but also oral and anal sex among heterosexuals as ‘unnatural’ acts. The definition of rape is narrowed only to women. The notion that only men can be rapists and only women can be victims comes from a deep-rooted patriarchal mindset. These notions seem to be inspired by conservative reversals in India, some western and African countries. Many third genders are forced into heterosexual marriage, ruining both lives. Codifying such forced and heterosexualised relationships to third genders serves only to create needless suffering to our families and relatives. The notion that third gender and same-sex relationships are unnatural is absurd and wrong, as proven by our historical and religious texts. The more we exclude and isolate LGBT people, the more we hurt everyone. Because if a person has no right to go to school, no right to get jobs, cannot contribute to the economy of the country, cannot contribute to the culture, they become burden to society. Nepali law is not only a problem for third genders, but also for women, Dalits, Janajatis, people with disabilities and religious minorities. They all need to be included in decision- making, especially in matters that affect them directly. All Nepalis who believe in equality and tolerance must raise their voices. The right to justice of all marginalised peoples is under threat from a regressive state. They are going to be excluded, margninalised, discriminated against, criminalised and demonised. AYESHA SHAKYA in government and the legislature. femininity is defined by the Even if gay marriage is family. In a conservative society Sunil Babu Pant is the founder of the Blue Diamond Society and lthough Nepal is legalised, for example, cultural with traditional views on was a UML member of the first Constituent Assembly. considered to be one of norms and values haven’t kept marriage and family structure, Athe most liberal countries pace with the amendments. changing people’s attitude is nepalitimes.com for lesbian, gay, bisexual Progress in laws is different from very difficult,” said Bharat Man the reality of everyday life of gay, Shrestha, LGBT Human Rights  Full citizens, #403 and transgender (LGBT) in South Asia, there are signs of reversal transgender and bisexual citizens. Officer with the United Nations and a conservative backlash “One’s masculinity or Development Programme (UNDP) 1 - 7 AUGUST 2014 #718 NATION 17

central government only issues citizenship cards of a third gender to new applicants. Bishnu Adhikari (left) waited for years before it was favourable to apply for a certificate. paper at least “When I was 16 back in 2004, I was not satisfied to get a female citizenship. I simply waited in relationship, and lives with hope that it would be possible GAY JATRA: Members of his partner in an apartment in for me to choose the third gender the LGBT community at a rally Kathmandu. He says: “I wouldn’t one day,” said the transgendered marking the annual gay pride have to fear holding my partner’s male, who finally got his parade in Kathmandu last year. hands in public. Also, recognition certificate when he turned 21. from the government will give “I am angry that the provision couples a greater sense of security given by the government is and belief that there is a future not a full package,” says the in buying and owning a home radio jockey. “Yes, I am proud together.” and happy to identify as a While the landmark 2007 transgendered male, but it also decision to decriminalise means that I have lost my right to homosexuality and 2011 census my inheritance, and lost my right recognition of third gender status to get married.” made Nepal more progressive Khanal, who is also joint and LGBT-friendly, in practice secretary at Ministry of laws are still inflexible, and some Information and Communications, constitutional provisions still explains changing the particulars archaic. of a citizenship card should not “In Nepal, you get your be made too easy. citizenship certificate when you “It might increase the are 16. Since 2007, people can potential of fraud,” he says. opt to choose a third gender. But Even if the government what about the older ones who agrees to institutionalise same- missed the window?” Panta asks. sex marriage, it will not mean Last year, Panta filed a case in the change will be immediate. The Supreme Court to make citizenship government has to start the long laws more flexible. The case is process of amending existing ongoing. It is not just the LGBT codes on marriage, citizenship, community that has problems with property and inheritance. citizenship, single mothers find it “It is still ultimately up to difficult to obtain papers for their Parliament to debate and vote children because Nepal’s outdated changes into law,” says Khanal. laws require a father’s consent. “It will take a long time before Despite laws, local and same-sex marriage can really district administrations still become official. It is difficult to require evidence and documents tell, and I can’t say when that day to prove one’s gender, while the will be.” BIKRAM RAI plain view

Most LGBTs do not come With lobbying and activism out for fear of being ostracised by Blue Diamond Society and or cut off by their close friends Mitini, there is more awareness and family. Shrestha now now about LGBT rights. The openly identifies himself as Gay Pride Parade in Gai Jatra gay, but initially struggled with is an accepted annual feature. accepting his sexuality and only Sexuality and gender diversity came to accept it after exposure have been included in the to the community and by school curriculum, and even getting involved directly with the immigration cards have a the issue. box for ‘Other’ under Gender. “I used to think about the Projects such as Being LGBT in reaction from my family and Asia organised by the UNDP society first. What would they and the USAID encourages say? But eventually I realised more dialogue to highlight the that I was never going to change rights of gender minorities in and that the best thing would Asia. be to accept myself,” he added. However, the consequences Although out to his close of such awareness is not always friends and selected family positive. “Awareness cannot members, he still has not told be equated with acceptance,” his parents. explained American researcher Others have told their Daniel Coyle, who works on parents, but kept it from their sexuality and gender in Nepal. extended family. When Sahil “As awareness increases, there came out to his parents, they is a chance that you might see were supportive, but his mother more violence against LGBTs.” suggested he keep his sexuality There is evidence that a secret from the rest of the lesbians face the most severe family for the time being. form of discrimination “She suggested that I among gender minorities in come out only after having Nepal, mainly because they done something outstanding are women. From sexual in the LGBT field,” he harassment to societal explained. “That way pressures to conform, lesbians relatives and extended family have to deal with being a members would feel a sense woman first and handle the of accomplishment and accept discrimination directed at them. it. At the end of the day, you *Some names have been need to save face in Nepal.” changed 18 FROM THE NEPALI PRESS 1 - 7 AUGUST 2014 #718

welcomed. But it may not be OPPORTUNITY appropriate for Nepal to beg India to build Arun. Instead, Nepal could fund it with a FOR soft loan from India, China or build the project by itself to COOPERATION attain self-sufficiency in energy infrastructure. On the eve of the Modi Editorial in Kantipur, 31 July visit, a minimum common understanding seems to be emerging between various Nepal can and has been working political groups, especially with with Indian, Chinese and other regards the proposed power trade countries and donors to develop agreement (PTA). The lack of “We’re don’t want its hydropower. With India, there a PTA with India has delayed can be three types of cooperation: projects like Upper Karnali and to capture anything” harness border rivers, allow others, which is why it is urgent Interview with Indian Minister for External Indian companies to invest in that its provisions be finalised Affairs Sushma Swaraj by Rishi Dhamala hydropower, and accept Indian during the Modi visit. Nepal in Ghatana ra Bichar, 30 July government aid for projects. had sent a draft PTA in 2010, First, the Pancheswor multi- but the Indian side did not Newspaper: ‘We are unable to save the Adhikari couple.” purpose storage project on the respond for four years. When it Rishi Dhamala: Rumour has it the Ganga and Nanda Prasad Adhikari: “We are unable to save Justice.” border Mahakali River is the one did send its draft, its ambiguous covert motive of Modi’s visit is to capture Nepal’s water resources. Sushma Swaraj: I felt very sad to Batsayan in Kantipur, 28 July read about that in the papers before I came here. We don’t want to capture the QUOTE OF THE WEEK territory or resources of our friends. We

want to see Nepal develop and Nepali My bad health will make me less efficient people happy. We never have and and the criticism will begin.“ Maybe I should never will have the intention to capture “ land from the country that is home to quit right away and hand it over to Ram Pashupatinath, Janaki, and Gautam Chandra Poudel. Buddha. That is why I want to appeal Prime Minister Sushil Koirala talking to aides to intellectuals at all levels that we have in New York, quoted on Jana Aastha, 30 July no negative stance towards Nepal. We want to develop hydropower in Nepal through big projects, and we only want to buy surplus power. Let there be electricity in every Nepali’s home first. We have no policy of monopolising Nepal’s water Wife suicides resources. KRISHNA GOPAL/KANTIPUR Rabi Dahal in Annapurna Post, 31 July But the proposal for hydropower most ready to go. Nepal and India provisions made it controversial. cooperation was controversial? signed an agreement on this 6,700 It is necessary to separate the I saw no reason for alarm. Still, we have BIRGANJ: An increasing number of newly- MW dam 18 years ago, and the generation of hydropower and agreed both countries’ ministers will sit married women are committing suicide detailed project report is also its trade. We should have an together and work out an agreement. We because they are tortured by their husband’s ready. Pancheswor is mutually agreement about trading power are ready to clear misgivings and correct families. But laws governing such cases are so beneficial for water and energy, with India, but how we develop mistakes in that document. It is Nepal’s ambiguous that culprits never face justice. and Nepal should seriously revive our generation capacity is up to sovereign right to work out its own In the past year, ten women aged 19-35 the proposal this time. us. We need to do this to remove agreement. India will always respect that. in Parsa hanged or poisoned themselves. The Second, many Indian our crippling power shortage and police categorises these as ‘family dispute’ companies have licenses for to spur industrialisation. So, India doesn’t want to cases, but each crime is a result of domestic hydropower projects in Nepal. There are two schools of monopolise hydrpower in Nepal? violence by in-laws. Anita Devi Patel, 17, after getting married. Among them, Upper Karnali and thought: that we should never Absolutely. I urge everyone not to believe of Pipara was tortured by her in-laws for Activists say families can’t file a case Arun III have reached the power have an agreement with India such rumours. Our Prime Minister met bringing in an insufficient dowry. She hanged because current laws don’t treat domestic development agreement (PDA) or that we should accept all yours at the swearing-in ceremony in herself on Sunday. Her father Madan Prasad abuse as a possible cause for suicide. stage. The draft for Upper Karnali conditions from India and sign an Delhi, and told him India wished to see Kurmi says husband Amit Patel drove his Shesh Chandtara of the National Women’s is ready and can be signed during agreement. We need a middle-of- big hydropower projects develop in Nepal daughter to suicide because he couldn’t pay Commission says this is a problem the Modi visit, and presented as a the-road solution. Nepal should and suggested it could be a way towards Patel’s demand of Rs 300,000 and a well- widespread in the Tarai. precedent for other investors. develop its water resources, and prosperity for Nepal. Nepal has a huge paying job. Anita was married at 13, and has Police officer Dhiraj Pratap Singh says Third, the project most suitable for this it needs to cooperate with trade deficit with India and we believe a one-year-old son. locals don’t want to be social outcasts, so they as Modi’s gift is Arun III since it India while preventing negative trading power could help minimise the Laxman Kalwar’s niece Anita Devi are forced to ignore problems that eventually is ready to go and is being built longterm impact from it. The visit gap. One quick way to do that is for Nepal was tortured by her husband Bijay Kalwar lead to suicides. He says: “It is easier to take by a state-owned Indian company, is an opportunity for Modi, too, to develop power and sell what is excess because he wanted a motorcycle as dowry. legal steps in domestic abuse cases. But after Sutlej. If a neighbour wants to to show that he is generous not to India. Laxman couldn’t deliver it on time and Anita women kill themselves, it gets difficult to gift us a project, that would be just in words, but also in deed. killed herself by swallowing poison, 36 days prove.” 1 - 7 AUGUST 2014 #718 PROFILE 19

KUNDA DIXIT

month after King Gyanendra’s coup d’etat Aof 1 February 2005, I was summoned to the Royal Nepal Army headquarters at Bhadrakali to meet Lt Gen Rookmangud Katawal. There was an information blackout, and military censors had to approve pages of Nepali Times before it went to press. Katawal had a vice-like handshake which I thought was a part of his psy-war repertoire. In the hour-long conversation, he wanted to know the international reaction to the king’s takeover, and delivered a veiled warning to toe the line. Nearly ten years later, Katawal still has an iron handshake and the same no- nonsense manner. We were meeting on Tuesday in a living KUNDA DIXIT room festooned with framed photographs and military honours. His memoir, which will be published by nepa~laya this month, is brisk and brusque, just like the abrasive general A general’s labyrinth himself. As an eight-year-old in Okhaldhunga, Rookmangud Katawal sneaked into the royal Former army chief Rookmangud Katawal tells all in soon to be released memoir tent during a visit by King Mahendra. The king, wearing find the king’s favourite French there was no coup planned. Dahal sacked him. stop him,” Katawal says. Had shades even at night, was so brandy, and flying in a live goat The next day at 9AM, the The ensuing cascade of events he accepted Dahal’s offer of impressed with the boy he got from Kathmandu for the royal prime minister was sacked and resulted in President Ram Baran ambassadorship and resigned, him enrolled in the boarding birthday party. Gyanendra took over. Katawal Yadav asking Katawal to continue or surrendered on 3 May, Nepal school in Pharping. Within five months of the remembers one envoy telling him: in office, and Dahal’s resignation may be a different place today – Katawal excelled in 2001 royal massacre, the army “Your king is a liar.” the next morning. Katawal’s probably a one-party dictatorship. studies and never lost his was sucked into the war -- Katawal admits he was initially account of 3 May 2009 is as Katawal doesn’t hide his precociousness. A descendant something Birendra had tried in favour of the royal takeover to riveting as a thriller, how he took disdain for Dahal’s manipulations, of Dev Raj Katawal, one of to avoid. Katawal was then “teach the politicians a lesson” so two pickups of Special Forces to “Mr Cloud” (Ram Bahadur Thapa) Prithvi Narayan Shah’s generals heading the Department of the army could focus on defeating Baluwatar with instructions to and his hard line, Girija Koirala who was killed during the Military Intelligence, and says the the Maoists. But when Gyanendra storm the building if he didn’t for capitulating to the Maoists, siege of Kathmandu in 1767, he army was made to fight with its appointed Tulsi Giri and Kirtinidhi reappear every ten minutes. or Ian “Mr Comrade” Martin was destined for the military. hands tied because the palace’s Bista as co-chairmen, he knew it Back at HQ, the situation was and UNMIN for undermining Katawal rose up the ranks, and instructions were only to disarm wouldn’t work. Within 14 months, tense. The Maoists had appointed democracy. despite strong opposition from the Maoists and force them to Gyanendra was forced to step Gen Kul Bahadur Khadka as After two recent books by the nobility, became Army negotiate. down. Chief, but Katawal was still in Sudheer Sharma and Prashant Chief during Nepal’s dramatic Days before Gyanendra’s 2005 In 2009, with just four months charge till midnight. “You bloody Jha which detail the depth transition from war to peace, coup, Katawal noticed four top left in his tenure as Army Chief, joker, what do you think you of involvement of Indian from monarchy to republic. generals sneaking off frequently Maoist Prime Minister Pushpa are doing?” Katawal says he told intelligence, Katawal’s memoir Katawal outlasted the royal to the palace. “Something was Kamal Dahal tried to tempt Khadka, but what he really said is gives us another insider’s account rulers who were his benefactors. cooking,” Katawal recalled. The Katawal to resign in return for probably unprintable. of the events that shaped recent The general denies he had king and army chief reassured an ambassadorship at the UN or “Prachanda knew if he could Nepali history. An English exclusive access to the royal Kathmandu-based ambassadors France. When the general refused, take over the army no one could translation is awaited. family, but admits turning those rumours to his advantage. As Liaison Officer to the Brigade nepalitimes.com of Gurkhas in 1983, he hosted  Past imperfect, #452  Hand-to-hand, #448 King Birendra in Hong Kong and EXCERPTS  Start again, #452 remembers frantically trying to Two translated sections from Rookmangud Katawal’s memoir. APRIL 2006 3 MAY 2009 “Your king is a liar,” British ambassador Bloomfield told me one day. “We are not going to surrender. No way,” I told President Ram Baran Yadav’s I could not accept such things being said about our head of state and adviser. “I don’t want to do anything unpleasant myself. My legitimacy finishes by supreme commander. I shot back: “How could you ever say that about my king?” 12 midnight.” Bloomfield repeated even more tersely: “He is not fit to be king.” At about 11PM, the President called. The exchange went on for a while, but I could not convince the ambassador. “Do I have to put it in writing?” The President asked. “Can’t I not write it?” None of the Kathmandu-based envoys were for an active monarchy, so they I replied: “If it is not in writing, there will be a question of legitimacy. A letter were not welcome in the palace. would resolve the issue.” But the people surrounding King Gyanendra, and those who were using his By then, KP Oli had got to the palace despite his health problems, and called to power, did not warn the King that he was losing international support. At a time say the President had decided to send the letter and to inform all the generals. when he should have been showing some flexibility, the King had become more A few minutes later, the fax arrived, reinstating the Chief of Army Staff. It was a rigid. clear and direct letter, just as we wanted. Soon after, my mobile and all the landlines I tried to convince the Chief several times to take the message to the King started ringing off the hook. that he should meet the NC and UML, which still had popular support. He never The needle on my watch approached midnight. But I wasn’t sleepy, I went replied. outside to meet my soldiers. 20 BACK SIDE 1 - 7 AUGUST 2014 #718 www.nepalitimes.com www.nepalitimes.com

Touchy-feely bilateral relationship PAST PRESENT FUTURE DIWAKAR CHETTRI

ow that Prime Minister Shri 3. Touching Feet: Bollywood cinema, the leaders of our two Jhusilji has decided to do on to This is an absolute no-no. No one touches countries should desist from smooching NShri Modiji what Shri Manmohanji anyone’s feet. Comrade Amrace can do it if each other in public. (Kissing ass in private did to his cousin Shri Girijaji, and break he wants. is fine.) protocol to go to the airport to receive him on Sunday, his advisers at Balu Water 4. Bear Hug: 6. Holding Both Hands: are scratching their heads about what Before 1990, hugging His Majesty the King This is the way Bhutan’s leaders greet would be the appropriate way to greet his was out of the question for a visiting Indian Indian leaders, and there is no reason we Indian counterpart. Not that I have been PM. But since then, the leaders of Nepal should emulate Jigme the Fifth unless we asked, but the Ass would like to offer the and India are prone to hugging each other have run out of our own ideas, and want PM’s mandarins a menu of options about tight at the slightest provocation, probably to be in the same category of bilateral how SuKo should greet NaMo: to locate each others’ soft spots. Hugging relations. Remember: body language is fine, but keep it within the bounds of is a very important indication of one 1. Namaskar: decency. country’s intention towards another, and This, of course, would be hugely symbolic every move will be closely scrutinised for since the greeting represents the age- meaning. old bonds of culture and agriculture that join our two great nations. It would also 7. Casually Holding Hands Inside Bomb- allow Nepal to keep India at arm’s length. Proof Vehicle from Airport: However, it is a bit impersonal and doesn’t Avoid. do enough to underline the interactivity that Indians and Nepalis share. I would 8. Arm Around the Shoulder: suggest that Shri Jhusil wrap both his What should Jhusilji do if hands around Shri Modiji’s namaskar Modiji puts his arm around his and oscillate it counter-clockwise shoulder? Fortunately, this situation for a mutually acceptable duration. won’t arise because Modi is younger, However, our prime minister shouldn’t get and Jhusil is Big Brother. However, it carried away, and should let go of Modiji’s should be ok for Nepal’s PM, if he feels hands after 7.5 seconds, unless he lets go. up to it, to put his arm around the Indian Whichever happens first. PM’s shoulder especially after a couple of drinks at the state banquet while 2. Hand-shake: singing “Hum Tum”. COMPUTER MONTAGE If the PM wants to show that Nepal would like to keep its distance from India, then a 5. Bear Hug with Kiss: 9. High Five: curt handshake would be the appropriate Ever since Brezhnev and Honecker This would be my personal gesture. The question then arises, what indulged in mouth-to-mouth resuscitation recommendation because it does not break should Nepal’s response be if Modiji uses at the airport in Berlin in 1983, some protocol, it is not all both hands to immediately grab Jhusil Da’s world leaders of the leftist persuasion touchy-feely, and keeps outstretched right hand? Our PM should still French kiss one another from time to a certain distance while be briefed that he should then use his left time. My view on the sensitive topic of at the same time show- hand to cover both of Modiji’s hands and political osculation is that we must make a casing informal bonhomie not let him get away with what could be distinction between lip-service and tongue- between equals. construed as a high-handed behaviour. lashing. And as long as kissing is taboo in The Ass

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