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Spring lucire.com issn 1176-8169 32/2014 /Autumn NZ$24·99 print / €5 US$6·99 download volante

Savouring Marrakech

Stanley Moss talks of the luxury living and the celebrated cuisine of the unique city of Marrakech, Morocco photographed by paula sweet

nlike many other destinations continues to attract droves of tourists, while U the same vendors and storytellers, musicians, in the world, central Marrakech hasn’t changed much in the last five years. While there’s major souvenir-sellers and henna ladies maintain their development on the outskirts of town, inbound unique locations night after night, year after traffic still proceeds somewhat anarchically to year. The food stall greeters hawk their bills of the old medina. At least it moves. Humans me- fare in whatever language you’ll answer to: they 32/2014 ander in front of cars, horns blat, donkeys and have expert radar in determining your national- horses plod along ambivalently, and ultimately ity, largely error-free, though their vocabulary lucire you reach your destination. The Jmaa Al Fnaa extends only as far as their particular category of

108 This page and food offering and elementary flirtation. Try and dis- overleaf: cuss the Higgs boson with them and you probably Scenes and will get a blank stare. The fact that Marrakech can dishes from now be called a culinary destination is the tantaliz- Amanjena. ing surprise. is hot, and we’re not only talk- ing about the spiciness. The cele­brated chef Joël Robuchon has placed Morocco among the ‘best cuisines in the world’. With their origins among the upper class, the classic tastes of the Levant begin with expensive ingredients, namely rare spices and savoury accoutrements. The very best recipes need time, some specialties requiring 12 hours in prepa- ration. Taken in tandem with Morocco’s legendary hospitality, the dining experience is irresistible. If you’ve crossed Morocco off your bucket list, time for a rethink. In the words of Amanjena’s gm, Gabri- el Lousada, speaking about his near-case of traveller’s remorse before his first visit, ‘I was about to commit the biggest mistake of my life by not coming.’ Ten kilometres east of the city, Amanjena remains a dream destination: spacious, tranquil, opulent, elegant, and 40 suites set among fantasy palatial passageways, straight out of the Arabian Nights. Amongst vast grounds like these you’ll never have the sense of the other guests. Frankly, why bother to venture far from your villa, especially the ones with private plunge pools? You could, of course, browse art books in the library, sunbathe by the poolside, or sip mojitos in the extremely comfortable bar, æons away from the grime and frenzy of the souk. Eventually the need for sustenance will surface. In that realm, Amanjena never disappoints, thanks to the ascent of two Moroccans, Chef Khalid and Chef Nourddine, whose joint stewardship has gracefully nudged the restaurant into one of Marrakech’s pre- ferred culinary oases. (Guests have first call on reser- vations, but the public can also avail themselves). On a recent visit to the property, a splendour of

delicacies were sampled in the fine dining restaurant 32/2014 for dinner and by the poolside for luncheon. Both venues delivered world-class service, a brilliant pan- orama of traditional flavors, informed by French lucire sensibilities and artful presentations. At dinner, a delicate amuse-bouche of tomato gel and pesto 109 110 lucire 32/2014 volante 32/2014 lucire 111 Above and garlanding fresh feta cheese gracefully preceded lizing side dishes. Mint tea and cookies capped right: beef tangia, unique to Marrakech, accompanied a truly memorable al fresco meal. (The ghoriba, Amanjena. by ethereal and seasonal vegetables, a sesame cookie concocted from flour, Below: served at an ideal consistency and temperature. sesame, honey and butter is a must-try. Those Courtyard at As the evening wounded down, a dessert bestia with a sweet tooth may need to ask the chef to Riyad El Cadi. with home-made cinnamon ice-cream finished send out a few more). It’s impossible to exhaust off the course in the romantic setting, to the ech- Amanjena’s menu in two meals, so a revisit is a oes of haunting strains of a Gnawa vocalist. must. For variety, Amanjena also boasts a highly Lunch the following day proved another recommended Thai restaurant, which is to be re- temptation. Sipping ice-cold vin gris from the viewed in a future article. ancient Roman city of Volubilia, we sampled Those curious to unravel the secrets of Mo- dlaa—a traditional slow-cooked lamb with saf- roccan cuisine will certainly benefit from a stay fron dish—which requires one-day advance or- at Riyad El Cadi, located in the medina. This dering. It was served on a background of tanta- wonderful small and authentic riad of 15 rooms continued on p. 128 32/2014 lucire

112 32/2014 lucire 113 volante elegant, and40suites destination: spacious, of thecity, Amanjena palatial passageways, This page: ElCadi. at Cuisine Ten kilometerseast straight outofthe set amongfantasy tranquil, opulent, remains adream Arabian Nights. Above left: Discovering El Cadi.

Above: Food at Riad Ilayka.

Below: Market-place at Marrakech. 128 lucire 32/2014 editor ofLucire. Stanley Mossistravel 2000. A mazeofcourtyards decorated with

Happiness isalways thegoal. McDonald’s, anunusualrequest which inn­ vation intheyear 1996,openingtheriadin with early shoppinginthesouk,followed work transform intodelectable meals. continued fromp. 112 Savouring Marrakech Cadi, seveninterconnected housescollected chopping andtasting, thearomas driftingup dor toMorocco. Hebegan themassreno chicken, veal, lamb, or artichoke and peas) dinner offourcoursesmight consist ofsoup, of foodsandspices,thebuzzenergetic pean style, butalsooffershighlypersonal- turns intothethrillofseeingone’s handi - tion. The riadunderstands avisitor’s palate like socializing, atypical classmightbegin ized cooking Moreinstruction as an add-on. and fulfilanywish.On rare occasions guests and dessert,washed downwithlocal Casa- al preferences; arrivingguestsmay findthem- back andforthfrom courtyard tables tothe by atwo-hour on-siteadventure, moving by Bartels’ father, formerGermanambassa- blanca beer, orahearty Moroccan wineselec majordomo Ali translates. The vividpalette must besatisfied,thusmanagementwilltry not onlyfeedsyouwellinlocal andEuro from tinyearthen cookingpotsmysteriously kitchen asChefHassandemonstrates, while keeper Julia Bartelshospitably honoured. salad, (thechoice duringourvisit:fish, sion abouttheirupcomingmeals. A typical selves happilyimmersedindetailed discus- size permitscustomizingcuisinetoindividu-

There’s acharming history toRiyad El This riadtakes diningseriously. Itssmall last words first outsidetheuk, to Marrakech, their two folksfrom Eng tional preferences: land whowonatrip arrive withexcep specifically wanted - - - - - 16 monthsago, thisproperty ofonlyseven This is aproperty to consider taking over in Parisians whoputforthabountifulmorning

your stay insidethemedinameans theoppor diverse structures, alayout soorganic thatno despite thecomplexitiesofconnecting the ent Marrakech municipalitiesandisserved experience. Besure totry outthe Argan oil comfortably sleep 35. Location, comfort, cui- ened sensibility topetitdéjeuner.Openjust day the mostimportant one. Tucked away original architectural details ofeach house, of Moroccan arts,sinceawealth ofmuseums, ornate doorways and sculpted porticos. And panoramic viewsofthesurrounding medi- palaces andtombsare atwalking distance. ping), evenaplungepool,accessed through table. Included in the room rate, breakfast on products inyourmodernbath. They are arti- told us, ‘been here fourdays, stillcan’t find tunity todiscoverfirst-hand thehighquality rich inlocal tradition andculture. There are the smooth hallways, climb narrow skylit tion, workmenunwittingly broke through tems. On onenotable day during renova- the chaos onlyminutesaway. You getsome tion inthemid-pricerange at€180–220per rooms hasbeenlovinglyrenovated byex- able floorplan. A bemusedguestfrom theuk architect haseverbeenabletodraft awork a wall intoaneighbor’s living room, fortu- across theinterconnected roof terraces with idea oftheintricacy oftheproperty looking a refuge ofquietspace,seeminglyfarfrom a remarkable collection oftextiles,theriadis unions. With some doubling up the riad can its entirety, forbirthdays, weddings,andre is unique,andthere are multiplegrades and among thelabyrinthinelanesofmedi- by two different water and electricity sys- my room.’ may present aconundrum forgroups, dueto na. Great pains were taken to preserve the hidden patiosideal forquietreading (ornap nately without serious diplomaticrepercus - night, sothevalue proposition ishigh. This na, RiadIlayka bringsadecidedlyenlight staircases asyouencounterauthenticdécor sions. It’s a peculiar joy to wander through sine and amenities mean a great Marrakech suite configurations from which to choose. spontaneous cases ofroom envy: every room sanal, bio, andlocally sourced. The riadfootprintstraddles two differ Riyad El Cadi occupies a special posi- Veteran travellers call thefirstmeal ofthe ------78 Mouassine El Hammam, Derb (brown bread, whitebread, , pain €25/person and winepricedat€15–30deliv Angeles is an expert at your arranging Mar expert isan Angeles The menu:fresh orange juice,fourbreads This mostlytouristhotelhasanaverage stay

vated platformappropriate forafternoon Amanjena with overhead shower, plungetub, artisan 212 524 390607 212 524 378 655 212 524 399000 Cave’, withitsintricate ceilingpainting. The 310 546-5140. ered excellent value. everything isnew. Even theroom called ‘La drinks orromantic trysts. Ourroom withits olive oil,two kindsofconfiture, local butter offering. • of three nights. Local artisan soaps, abundant private terrace, featured afantasy bathroom the roof terrace combinessplendidflavours roof area nowfeature viewsofatraditional towels andplushrobes fillouttheamenities and honey, rosewater–agar-flavoured yogurt, au chocolat), thetraditional Moroccan crèpe, and inspired presentation inaclassicsetting. ad’s youngproprietors brought theproperty rakech adventure. contact Her telephone is1 a safe,all at theattractive rate of€95–200. www.riadilayka.com www.riyadelcadi.com 87, Moulay, Derb Abdelkader www.amanresorts.com back toperfect repair. Itlooksvintage, but menzeh, Jacuzzi, hammam,andanairy ele mered metal sinkandmirror. All rooms are mosaic work,illuminatedcubbiesandham- for guests,proved anotherbonus. Dinnerat fé. Ilayka’s restaurant, which isreserved only fresh fruit compote,omelette andpousse-ca- Maria PocapaliaMaria of Tzell West Travel inLos Marrakech 40000 Medina, Marrakech 40000 Medina, Morocco Route deOuarzazate non-smoking, andhave airconditioningand Riad IlaykaRiad Riyad El Cadi km 12, Marrakech Following aone-year renovation, theri- - - ­