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The RSPB speaks out for birds and wildlife, tackling the problems that threaten our environment. Nature is amazing – help us keep it that way. As a charity, the RSPB depends on the goodwill and financial support of people like you. Please visit www.rspb.org.uk/supporting or call 01767 680551 to find out more.

The Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) is a registered charity: and Wales no. 207076, Scotland no. SC037654. NHH-2321-10-11 FREE Visit RSPB North Marshes 2 The RSPB on the

Contents The RSPB currently manages eight reserves across the marshes, the most important in southern England. You can visit, or view from public rights of The RSPB on the North Kent Marshes 2 way, all of these reserves. Three of them, Northward Hill, Elmley Marshes Map of the area 3 and Cliffe Pools have car parking, and there are toilet facilities at Northward Hill and Elmley Marshes, along with extensive nature trails. Northward Hill 4 Cliffe Pools 8 The North Kent Marshes stretch over 70 miles between and Elmley Marshes 12 , and make up huge areas of low-lying land on the banks of Marshes, Higham Bight the ; while their importance for wildlife was well known, until recently there was little opportunity for people to visit. and Rye Street 16 Capel Fleet and Harty 18 Now we are working to provide you with the facilities you need to enjoy Nor Marsh and Motney Hill 20 this beautiful marshland countryside. Would you like to know more? 22 We hope you will enjoy exploring the North Kent Marshes with the aid Further details 23 of this guide.

The Marshes are great for:

Ⅲ birdwatching Ⅲ walking Ⅲ history and culture.

Front cover picture: marsh harrier by Richard Brooks (rspb-images.com)

s

RSPB reserves on the North Kent Marshes 3

Key 8 –11 4 –7 Car park Car park Public access 9.5km of trails Higham Bight Thames see pages 16–17 You can see wildlife Es tuary from public footpaths

12 –15 Capel Fleet Cliffe Car park viewpoint Cooling Four hides see page 22 A228 • Car park High Halsto w • Raised viewpoint

0 0 Rye Street 0 2 see pages 16– 17 B You can see wildl ife from public footpaths Medwa y Eastchu rc h A289 Nor Marshes and Motney Hill see pages 20–21 Sheppey Both sites are visible Ro chester from the Riverside P Kingshill Shorne RSPB Country Park trails 9 car park Farm M 4 Marshes 2 2 A see pages 16–17 A2 You can see wildl ife from public footpaths 4 RSPB Northward Hill H u g h

W

Welcome to Northward Hill e l f o r d

(

The Marshes lost their value for wildlife when they were r s p

drained in the 20th century. The RSPB has worked to bring b - i m

back the water and restore grazing, creating the right a g e s

conditions for breeding lapwings and redshanks, . c o and for big flocks of wintering ducks. m )

Come here for... Ⅲ the UK’s largest heronry from February to May, with up to 150 pairs of grey herons each year. Since 2000, they have been joined by breeding little egrets, and now 100 pairs of this small white heron nest annually. In spring, turtle doves, nightingales and warblers join resident breeding bird species such as woodpeckers and tits Ⅲ bluebell woodland walks in spring Ⅲ over six miles (10 km) of trails, with fantastic panoramas over the Marshes and peaceful woodland walks. 5

Visiting Northward Hill nature reserve RESERVE FACT FILE The reserve is open at all times. Ⅲ Ⅲ Vigorous lobbying from the RSPB and local Ⅲ The main RSPB car park is at Bromhey Farm, communities helped block the Cliffe airport proposal signposted on the road between which would have completely destroyed the reserve. and Cooling, and is available 7 am–dusk daily. Ⅲ The Northward Hill office at Bromhey Farm is the Ⅲ A public toilet is available at the main car park. RSPB’s main base for all its work on its North Kent Ⅲ In winter or after rain, trails may be muddy and Marshes reserve. there are some steep slopes. Access to all the trails Ⅲ We found a variety of Roman pottery when we is unfortunately difficult for wheelchair users. improved the ditches for wildlife. There are nine miles Ⅲ Dogs are permitted on a lead on the woodland trails and (over 14 km) of ditches and over two miles (4 km) on public footpaths, but not to the Heronry viewpoint. of fleets at Northward Hill.

Contact us: RSPB Northward Hill nature reserve, Bromhey Farm, Cooling, Rochester ME3 8DS. Tel: 01634 222480. E-mail: [email protected] CONSERVATION MANAGEMENT Ⅲ Water levels are crucial – not too high and not too low! How to find us We use storage reservoirs, sluices and pumps to help us. Northward Hill main car park is located at Bromhey Farm, Ⅲ Cattle and sheep lightly graze the marshes, which signposted on the road between High Halstow and Cooling. benefits breeding wading birds and wintering waterfowl. From the A228, follow the road to High Halstow and turn Ⅲ By planting new trees and allowing others to naturally left onto Cooling Road. seed, we will double the size of the woodland over the next 60 years. Ⅲ Woodland rides and glades are kept open on rotation for the benefit of woodland flowers and butterflies. 6 RSPB Northward Hill reserve trail map

Reservoirs

D

e

c

o

y

Ernie Hemsley H

i

viewpoint He ronry l Marshland l viewpoint R viewpoint o Roman potter y a kilns (site of) d

Ba rns

Mature woodland Woodland viewpoint Cherry orchard Bromhey Farm Mixed scrub and grassland Main car park Woodland To RSP B trail Upland grazing Cliffe Pools 6.5 km N Grazing marsh COOLING Reeds Entrance/ exit Water 0 0.25

Reser ve border km Road Coo ling Vehicle entrance to reser ve R o a HIGH HALSTOW Footpath d Public toilets Nature trails Red Dog PH Woodland sanctuary area (strictly no entry) Northward Hill season by season 7

Spring Autumn G C h Ⅲ Herons and egrets nest Ⅲ Migrating wading birds o r r i d s o

in the woodland. such as spotted redshanks G n o

Ⅲ Nightingales sing in the and green sandpipers can L m a n e g dense undergrowth. r be seen at the reservoirs. s s a b

Ⅲ Carpets of bluebells bloom l Ⅲ Swallows gather around u l

( r r y

from mid-April to mid-May. s the farm buildings.

p ( r b s - Ⅲ Lapwings and redshanks Ⅲ Large numbers of p i m b - a display on the marshes. dragonflies fly over the i m g e Whitethroats sing from reserve in late summer a Ⅲ s g . e c s the scrub. o and early autumn. . m c o )

Ⅲ Avocets nest on the Ⅲ Noisy jays collect acorns m

reservoir islands. from the wood. )

Nightingale Common darter

Summer Winter C A h Ⅲ Hobbies hunt dragonflies n Ⅲ Waterfowl gather r d i y s

over the marsh. on marshland floods, G H a o y Ⅲ Marsh harriers quarter the including a variety of m

( e r r marsh and reedfleets. s ducks and sometimes s p a b

Many species of butterfly l white-fronted geese l Ⅲ -

i ( m r s

are on the wing, including a and Bewick’s swans. p g b e

the rare white-letter Ⅲ Flocks of wintering - s i m . c o hairstreak. thrushes, finches a g m e )

Ⅲ Large numbers of little and buntings gather s . c

egrets return to roost in in the scrub. o m

the wood before dusk. Ⅲ Wintering birds of prey ) Ⅲ Turtle doves ‘purr’ from may be seen, including overhead wires. hen harriers, peregrines, buzzards and merlins. Marsh harrier White-fronted geese 8 RSPB Cliffe Pools A n d

Welcome to RSPB Cliffe Pools y

H a y

The big saline lagoons attract birds throughout the year. ( r s p

In winter there are large numbers of wild ducks; in spring b - i m

and summer rare wading birds such as the avocet breed; a g e s

and in spring and autumn, thousands more wading birds . c o pass through on their international migrations. m )

Come here for... Ⅲ fantastic views from city to Southend, from the Pinnacle viewpoint Ⅲ one of the best wetland bird spectacles in southern England Ⅲ over 200 bird species recorded every year Ⅲ six miles (9.5 km) of trails to explore Ⅲ a programme of events available to all. 9

Visiting RSPB Cliffe Pools nature reserve RESERVE FACT FILE Ⅲ Public footpaths around Cliffe Pools are open every day, Ⅲ It is a four-mile (6.5 km) walk around the reserve boundary. and viewpoints and benches provide good wildlife Ⅲ Over 235 bird species have been recorded, including watching points. Car park opening times: 9 am –5 pm many rarities. (or dusk if earlier). Ⅲ Cliffe Pools has over 3% of all the saline pools in the UK – Ⅲ All of the surrounding villages have public toilets – near they are full of unusual microscopic life which attracts the church at Cliffe, at the village hall in Cooling, and by the waterbirds. the village hall at High Halstow. Ⅲ Bumblebees are struggling nationally, but we have 18 of the 25 UK species here, including the most threatened Contact us: of all, the shrill carder bee. RSPB North Kent Marshes, Bromhey Farm, Cooling, Rochester ME5 8DS. Tel: 01634 222480 E-mail: [email protected]

How to find us CONSERVATION MANAGEMENT From the A2, take slip road signposted A289 Gillingham, then after 2.5 miles (4 km) take the B2000 to Cliffe. Ⅲ We keep water levels high in spring to ensure that One mile after village, turn left into breeding birds on the island are safe from predators, and Rectory Road. From here follow brown tourist we drop levels in summer to allow wading birds to feed. signs to the car park at the end of Salt Lane. Ⅲ We use cattle to graze the grassy areas, maintaining a patchwork of short and long growth, scrubby areas and Ⅲ Northward Hill reserve is four miles (6.5 km) away. bare earth patches. This is home to a wide range of Ⅲ Elmley Marshes is 25 miles (40.25 km) away. wildlife, including breeding stonechats and lapwings. Ⅲ We work closely with Westminster Dredging Ltd, who pump river mud, sand and gravel into the pools, allowing us to create more habitat to benefit birds. 10 RSPB Cliffe Pools reserve trail map

Cliffe Marshes N

Key

Grassland 0 1 Scr ub Pipe pool mound km Fresh w ater s Hope mound Saline lag oon e

m Sand a h Black T ba rn Saltmarsh r e v Reserv e bor der i Coastguard's Black Barn Poo l R pool Road Vehicle access Flamingo Poo l Public r ight of w ay Thames Pi ckles Viewpoint ol Way Permissive path Cliffe Cree k Sax on Shor e W ay Radar Poo l Gate s Cliffe Pon d fort Viewpoint Hill Public toilets P Car park Cliffe

The Pinnacle Crystal Pool

P

B

2 0

RSP B 0 0 Higham Bight Salt Lane Cliffe Pools season by season 11

Spring Autumn C G h Ⅲ Breeding wading birds Ⅲ An impressive range of e r r i a s l

such as avocets, wading birds includes d G

D redshanks and lapwings o several hundred avocets m o w e r

display noisily. and black-tailed godwits, n s e a y

Ⅲ Migrant warblers from l and regular rarities. l

( ( r r s

Africa sing in the reed s Strong winds can blow

Ⅲ p p b b -

and shrub. -

seabirds, such as Arctic i i m m a

Ⅲ Great crested grebes a skuas, up the Thames. g g e e

display in the pools. Little egrets feed around s s Ⅲ . . c c o Hawthorn and cow o every pool and lagoon. Ⅲ m m ) parsley form avenues ) Ⅲ Common terns fly gracefully of white blossom. around the pools, getting ready to leave for Africa.

Great crested grebe Little egret

Summer Winter B R a Ⅲ Bumblebees feed on yellow i Ⅲ Wintering birds of prey c r h r y mats of birds foot trefoil. a can include peregrines

r H d u

Mallard, gadwall and R and marsh harriers.

Ⅲ g e h v e

pochard ducklings dart e Ⅲ Hen harriers, the males s l

s (

about the pools and lagoons. a ghostly grey colour, r

s ( r p s b

Ⅲ Marsh frogs chorus loudly p sometimes drift over - b i m -

from the ditches. i the Marshes. m a g a

Ⅲ Turtle doves call from Ⅲ Large flocks of diving e g s e . c telegraph wires. s ducks gather in the o . c m o m Ⅲ Grassland butterflies such centre of the pools. )

as meadow browns and ) Ⅲ On a high tide, large common blues flit along flocks of wading birds the sea walls. such as dunlins wheel in from the Thames to Buff-tailed bumblebee roost on lagoon islands. Dunlin 12 RSPB Elmley Marshes C h r i s

Welcome to RSPB Elmley Marshes G o m

Elmley Marshes was the RSPB’s first marshland reserve in e r s a l

north Kent. When we took over the lease in 1974, the ancient l

( r s

creeks were dry: our job was to get water back on the land, p b - i and to make conditions right for breeding and wintering birds. m a g

The area is part of the 1,215-hectare National Nature Reserve, e s . c

managed by the Elmley Conservation Trust. A visit involves o m a safari-like car journey across this expansive landscape, ) but visitors are urged not to leave their vehicles until they reach the RSPB car park, to avoid disturbing the wildlife.

Come here for...

Ⅲ some of the wildest landscapes in Kent Ⅲ breeding wading birds in the spring Ⅲ the best place to see birds of prey in southern England. Many pairs of marsh harriers breed in the area, peregrines can be seen all year round, and in winter they are joined by hen harriers, merlins and short eared owls Ⅲ thousands of ducks – such as wigeons and teals – geese and swans flocking to the Marshes in winter, and wading birds from the Swale using the reserve as a safe roost, arrive at high tide. By summer, the marshes are alive with breeding redshanks and lapwings. Avocets nest in the muddy scrapes. 13

Visiting RSPB Elmley Marshes nature reserve RESERVE FACT FILE The reserve is open daily, except Tuesdays , 9 am–9 pm Ⅲ Ⅲ The track to the RSPB car park is across land managed (or sunset if earlier). for wildlife by the Elmley Conservation Trust (ECT). Ⅲ Admission is free. Ⅲ The ECT land and the RSPB reserve together form Ⅲ The first hide is part of an initial three-mile (5 km) round the Elmley Marshes National Nature Reserve. trip on foot – disabled and elderly visitors are welcome Ⅲ As well as rich bird life, the reserve also supports other to contact reserve staff to arrange to park at the first species, including the maid of Kent beetle and the scarce hide. emerald damselfly. Ⅲ Currently the only toilet facilities are in the car park.

Contact us: The main North Kent Marshes number is 01634 222480. Alternatively, contact RSPB Elmley Marshes, Kingshill Farm, Elmley, , Kent ME2 3RW. Tel: 01795 665969.

How to find us CONSERVATION MANAGEMENT From the A2, take the A249 Sheerness Road. Exit left, The management of Elmley is a constant balancing act, just before the New Swale Bridge, signposted Iwade and Ⅲ ensuring that there is the right amount of water to benefit Ridham Dock. At the roundabout take the second exit over the wildfowl and wading birds, and adjusting the levels Old Swale Bridge. Continue along, approximately 1.5 miles of grazing to keep the vegetation at the right height. (2.5 km). A brown tourist sign directs you to the reserve The Flood was created in 1978 by damming ditches and access road on the right. On entering the road, take the Ⅲ shallow areas. It’s the place where many of our wading left fork and drive through the farm buildings. You will birds nest and roost. see signs for the National Nature Reserve, and the We continually manage the vegetation on the Flood RSPB car park is a two-mile drive. Ⅲ by hand and use livestock to create conditions that the birds like. This also allows great views from the hides. 14 RSPB Elmley Marshes reserve trail map

Key

Mudflats

Grazing marsh

Water

Elmle y NNR Saltmarsh

Reser ve bor der N Road

W Path in d m P Parking i 0 1 ll Cr P Disabled par king Kingshill Count erwall eek P Farm hide km Toilets Wellmarsh The hide Flood

P South Fleet Shar fleet hide Dutc hman’ s Creek Island

Wellmarsh Creek

THE S Spit end WALE point Spit end hide Elmley Marshes season by season 15

Spring Autumn C G h Ⅲ Displaying wading birds e Ⅲ Wading birds en route r o i s r g

are evident, with lapwings from the Arctic to Africa G e

o

and redshanks often seen M can be seen. These m c e C

close to the track. include green sandpipers r a s r a t l Ⅲ On the Flood, avocets h and spotted redshanks. l

y ( r

( are particularly noisy. Ⅲ Numbers of marsh s r

p s b p

Ducks, including harriers on the reserve - Ⅲ b i m - i

m shelducks, shovelers, are boosted by this a g a e pochards and tufted g year’s youngsters. s e . s c . o ducks, settle down c Ⅲ Little egret numbers m o m to breed. are at their peak. ) )

Pochard Marsh harrier

Summer Winter C C h Ⅲ Avocet, oystercatcher, h Ⅲ Duck counts can include r r i i s s

redshank and lapwing up to 15,000 wigeons G G o o m chicks should be visible m and 5,000 teals. e e r from most of the hides. r Ⅲ European white-fronted s s a a l Yellow wagtails breed in the l l Ⅲ l geese can be seen,

( ( r r s marshes in good numbers. s especially at Spitend. p p b b - Ⅲ The fleets (freshwater - Ⅲ Hen harriers and short i i m m a ditches) buzz with a eared owls hunt over g g e e s dragonflies and damselflies. s the Marshes. . . c c o Ⅲ Crickets and grasshoppers o Ⅲ The wading bird roost can m m ) enliven the grasslands. ) include several hundred grey plovers and black tailed godwits, and several thousand dunlins. Yellow wagtail Grey plover 16 Other sites on the B

o Shorne Marshes, Higham Bight and Rye Street are not b

G l designed to be visitor reserves, in order to protect the wildlife. o v e r

You are welcome to view them from public rights of way. ( r s p b - i m a

Shorne Marshes g e s . c o

This old firing range features around 700 ponds formed as m the result of bomb craters, and some of these are home to ) great crested newts. The area is managed as grazing marsh and is home to breeding lapwings and redshanks. Higham Bight This is an area of intertidal mudflat and saltmarsh, an excellent place for wading birds at low tide. In winter, look out for huge flocks of dunlins and knots.

n Rye Street axo

This is an important area of traditional grazing marsh on the north-east of Cliffe village. The area is good for skylarks, corn buntings, water voles and dragonflies.

How to find us Shorne Marshes and the Thames Estuary are visible from the Saxon Shore Way, and the best views of the marshes can be obtained below . The grassland of Rye Street is Grey plover visible from the public footpath that runs from Cliffe village. Shorne Marshes, Higham Bight and Rye Street 17

Cliffffefe Fort

Rye Street

Higgham P Co mmo Bight n La Cliffe ne Rye Street GGravel works Farm

Cooling

N

t

e

e

r t

) S th tpa t (foo s y e Wa Cooling Road e W hor n S 0 1 N Shorne Marshes km S

t

a

t

i

o

n

R 0 0.5

o

a C d ana l Ro Works ad km 18 Other sites on Sheppey B o b

Capel Fleet viewpoint G l o v e

This is one of the best places to see marsh harriers: the r

( r s

reedbed of the fleet provides nesting habitat, and the p b - i surrounding farmland is ideal hunting territory. During the m a g

winter, marsh harriers are joined by hen harriers and both e s . c species can be seen gathering around communal roosts o m at dusk. The viewpoint is also a good site for hobbies in ) summer, and peregrines, merlins and short-eared owls in winter. There is off-road parking, with a wheelchair- accessible ramp onto a raised mound.

How to find the Capel Fleet viewpoint Short-eared owl Turn right off the B2231 to the east of Eastchurch (signposted for the Harty Ferry Inn). This raised viewpoint S t e

was created in 2005 and includes a car park. v e

K n e l l

The project has been supported by and Swale ( r s p

Estuary Partnership and Kent Ornithological Society. b - i m a g e s . c o m )

Marsh harrier RSPB Capel Fleet and Harty 19

N Capel Fleet viewpoint (viewpoint and car park)

0 1

km

Elliotts Farm

Mocketts

Sayes Court

Ferry Inn 20 RSPB sites on the Medway estuary

L a

Nor Marsh and Motney Hill RSPB nature reserves in the u r i e

Medway estuary are not accessible: one is an island and C a m

the other is intertidal. However, these reserves are visible p b e

l

from footpaths at Riverside Country Park, which is run by l

( r s

Medway Council and can be accessed from the B2004 p b - i near Gillingham. From the visitor centre, footpaths provide m a g

views across the reserves. Visit www.medway.gov.uk e s . c

or telephone 01634 348987 for more details. o m ) Nor Marsh These saltmarsh islands are a haven for birds. In spring, redshanks and ringed plovers breed, and in winter the Goldeneye area is popular with brent geese and goldeneyes. How to find Nor Marsh

The islands are visible from the Horrid Hill viewpoint; you M i k e

will get the best views with binoculars, but birds frequently L a use the shoreline of Riverside Country Park. n e

( r s p b - i Motney Hill m a g e

s .

This area provides saltmarsh habitat similar to Nor Marsh. c o m

Both sites are also good areas to see Sandwich terns and ) Mediterranean gulls in winter. How to find Motney Hill Follow the Saxon Shore Way from Riverside Country Park to the edge of the saltmarsh. Mediterranean gull 21 Nor Marsh and Molet Cnreeeky Hill South Yant

Nor Marsh

k tt Cree Bartle Horrid Hill

Riverside Country Park (Medway Council Visitor Centre, good views over Motney Hill A these two RSPB sites) 2 8 9 P N Lower Tw y d a l l Saxon Shore Way (footpath)

B2 00 4 0 1 Bloors Wharf km Lower Rainham P 22 Would you like to know more?

Events programme Support your local RSPB group Events take place at the North Kent Marshes throughout the There are several RSPB local groups in the area; they all year and range from wildlife watching and family events to big hold indoor and outdoor events, as well as supporting the annual shows, such as the Wildlife and Country Fair. The events RSPB’s work. For more information, contact Bexley group also provide the opportunity to meet staff and find out more on 020 8859 3518, Canterbury group on 01227 450655, about the area and its wildlife. For a free copy of the current and District group on 01474 365757, Maidstone programme, telephone 01634 222480 or visit group on 01580 892458 and Medway group on 01634 387431. www.rspb.org.uk/events School visits Friends of the North Kent Marshes These are welcomed at Northward Hill. We have Friends of North Kent Marshes was formed at curriculum-based activities for KS1 and KS2 pupils. the end of the successful ‘No airport at Cliffe!’ campaign. More information on www.rspb.org.uk. Click on The group promotes the importance of the North Kent Marshes “Our work – for schools”. as a place to be valued and enjoyed by all. To find out more or to pledge support, please visit www.northkentmarshes.org.uk How you can help RSPB volunteering is a rewarding experience and Greening the Gateway Kent and Medway offers the opportunity to be involved in many asp ects Greening the Gateway Kent and Medway works to enhance and of the work of the RSPB. For more information, protect the natural environment for the benefit of wildlife and telephone 01634 222480. biodiversity, improve public access to high-quality countryside environments, and transform people's perceptions of North Kent, Bird sightings so the area becomes widely known as a great place to live, Look at www.rspb.org.uk and select the relevant work, invest and relax. reserve for the very latest sightings. To submit your For more details, visit www.gtgkm.org.uk own sightings for any of the reserves, please e-mail them to [email protected]. Alternatively, check the website of the Kent Ornithological Society, www.kentos.org.uk Further details 23

Also in the area D a v i d

Cooling Church and are notable features on T i p l i the Hoo Peninsula. The marshes are evocatively described by n g

( r

Charles Dickens, and the church is the setting for the beginning s p b - of Great Expectations . Rochester Cathedral and Castle, i m a

Castle and the Historical Dockyard at Chatham are just some g e s . of the sights in the area. For more information, visit c o m www.medway.gov.uk/tourism ) Exploring by bike What better way of getting between Cliffe Pools and Northward Hill than the scenic Heron cycle route? For further information, telephone 01634 222480. Contact us The North Kent Marshes team can be contacted on 01634 222480, or by e-mail: [email protected]

The postal address is RSPB North Kent Marshes, Bromhey Farm, Cooling, Kent ME3 8DS. Please contact us if you would like to be added to our mailing list or receive a free copy of our events programme.

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