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Milwaukee Ethnicity: Herbs and Spices Why the Foods for 13 Local Eth- About Milwaukee Ethnic News Nic Groups Have Unique Flavors

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Milwaukee Ethnicity: Herbs and Spices Why the Foods for 13 Local Eth- About Milwaukee Ethnic News Nic Groups Have Unique Flavors MILWAUKEE PUBLISHED BY URBAN ANTHROPOLOGY, INC. JULY/AUGUST, 2021 Milwaukee ethnicity: herbs and spices Why the foods for 13 local eth- About Milwaukee Ethnic News nic groups have unique flavors Milwaukee Ethnic News is published bimonthly by Urban An- thropology Inc. and is managed by volunteer anthropologists. The purpose of the newsletter is to offer ethnic organizations and individuals the opportunities to share news and information about their cultures. The newsletter does not receive funds from any external source. See more information on last page. Old South Side Settlement Museum is now open for group tour reservations As of July 1, 2021, the Rozga Family’s Old South Side Settlement Food plays a large role in the ethnic experience, includ- Museum will be open ing the recipes passed down from ancestors. The par- for free for reserved ticular herbs and spices preferred by each group gives groups of two or more. the ethnic foods their unique flavors. This article will discuss these trends among Milwaukee County’s Afri- Museum features can Americans, American Indians, English, French, Germans, Hmong, Irish, Italians, Jews, Mexicans, Nor- The museum, located wegians, Poles, and Puerto Ricans. at 707 W. Lincoln Ave- nue, tells the story of African Americans the settlement of Poles and Latinos in this southside community. Features include displays on the history of the Basilica of St. Josaphat, Kosciuszko “One of the hallmarks of African-American cooking is Park, and the stream of populations that occupied the blocks in the Lincoln more intense seasoning,” said Adrian Miller, the author Village and Historic Mitchell neighborhoods. One room showcases exhibits on of Soul Food: The Surprising Story of an American Cui- celebrities that once lived on these blocks, including a movie star, two base- sine One Plate at a Time. Miller discussed how black 1 ball hall-of-famers, a Medal of Honor recipient, and more. A special feature is families use seasoned salt in many dishes. She also Continued on page six Continued on page two Page Ethnic herbs and spices Continued from page one__________________________ stressed the importance of seasoning in soul food, which most often includes a blend of salt, black pep- per, onion powder, garlic powder, chili, paprika, thyme, dried parsley, and cayenne pepper. This combination is often used in collard, turnip or mus- tard greens; fried chicken; okra; and chicken fried steak. Other spices used Oneida harvest festival in African American cui- sine include celery seed, cumin, coriander, nutmeg, cinnamon, curry, dry The Oneida celebrate an October harvest thanksgiving mustard, chili powder, and fresh parsley. called the Husking Bee (suspended during COVID). Oneida people give thanks for their harvest during this three-day celebration, and that includes ancient sto- Other soul food options ries, songs, dances and prayer. With harvesting and braiding the Oneida white corn as a highlight of the Soul food also includes cornbread, grits, hoecake, hush puppies, sweet event, this celebration recognizes and gives thanks for potato pie, fatback, fried fish, ham hocks, hog jowl, hog maw, offal, ox tails, the harvest. Also featured are cultural events, music, pigs’ feet, pickled pigs’ feet, pork, pork ribs, giblets, chicken liver, turkey, prepared foods, and vendors from the Oneida Farmers hoppin’ John, black-eyed peas, sweet potatoes, and okra. Market Enjoy soul food locally at Daddys Soul Food Grille. English American Indians Herbs and spices used most commonly among the Among American Indians, the herbs and spices that are used in sacred cere- English are sage, rosemary, ginger, thyme, poppy monies or healing, such as sage, sassafras, and juniper, are also often used seed, cinnamon, mint, nutmeg, flaxseed, dill, and anise to flavor meat, soups, stews, and teas. Other herbs and spices employed at (pictured is the English green bean dish with sage and times include mint, yarrow, curry, coriander, dandelion, and lavender. pancetta). A popular North American Indian dish is three sis- ters’ stew. Three sisters are the companion plants of corn, beans, and squash that are planted in the same hole—the corn providing support for the beans to climb, the beans putting nitrogen back into the soil to help the other plants, and the squash shading the soil. Curry and coriander are com- While the British are not the first ethnic group one monly added to season the dish. usually considers when discussing culinary use of sea- Locally, The Oneida Cannery is a cultural program of the Oneida Nation of sonings, they were mostly responsible for introducing Wisconsin that processes traditional foods. Among their many products, mint, the Western world to many herbs and spices. The Brit- chamomile, dehydrated violet flowers and dehydrated blueberries and straw- ish East India Company was fiercely competitive with berries are harvested and packaged for teas. the Dutch and French throughout the 17th and 18th Oneida white corn is still processed in an alkaline bath made with burnt centuries over spices from the Spice Islands in eastern 2 ashes. Continued on page three Page Overall, Germany’s and Austria’s favored season- Ethnic herbs and spices ings include bay leaf, ginger, borage, carraway, chives, brown and white mustard seed. dill, juniper berries, Continued from page two__________________________ marjoram, parsley, thyme, and white pepper. Indonesia. Spices such as pepper, ginger, nutmeg, cloves and cinnamon, Hmong could only be found on these islands at the time, and the British could earn profits as high as 400 percent per voyage. During their centuries of migrations across Asia, the Locally, many of these herbs can be enjoyed in the white bean salad at the Hmong incorporated local herbs and spices into their British Three Lions Pub in Shorewood. traditional recipes. Hmong in the United States favor chilies, cilantro, ginger, and green onion. Cilantro is the French herb that gives Hmong egg rolls (Kab Yaub) their deli- cious and distinct flavor, similar to the Vietnamese ver- The French are known to use herbs and spices in understated ways. Most sion. These fried and wrapped rolls are popular at fam- popular among this ethnic group are tarragon, nutmeg, parsley, sage, rose- ily affairs and annual events such as the Hmong New mary, thyme, cinnamon, and wine vinegar, Nutmeg is barely discernable in Year. Typically, the rolls consist of eggs mixed with vichyssoise, a potato/leek soup enjoyed at room temperature (see pictured). shredded carrots and cabbage, ground pork (or they can be vegetarian), onions, scallions, and cilantro. They are rolled in a paper-thin wheat shell, and deep fried. Locally, a good place to enjoy Hmong egg rolls is at Xiong’s Restaurant at the 5xen Super Asian Market on the city’s far northwest side. Locally, the subtle use of thyme can be enjoyed on Milwaukee’s lakefront. A dish to consider is Blanquette de Veau à l'Ancienne - Paul Bocuse, and it Irish can be ordered at Bartolotta’s Lake Park Bistro. The Irish do not Germans brandish season- ings to quite the Do you ever wonder extent that many what gives bratwurst its other groups do. distinctive taste? It’s the They use garlic, combination of herbs fresh thyme, car- and spices added to the away seeds, and meat. While recipes cloves. Garlic is vary, all include ginger commonly em- and marjoram. Other ployed in cook- recipes may add mace ing, and in the preparation of the Irish favorite, corned (or its alternative of nut- beef. Garlic also adds flavor to batter for fish, roasted meg), carraway, mus- chicken and creamed potatoes. Garlic is not an herb, tard powder, carda- but a vegetable. mum, and coriander. An excellent place to enjoy Irish corned beef and Brats with Dusseldorf mustard can be accessed in German restaurants all cabbage is at County Clare in the city’s Yankee Hill over the Greater Milwaukee area, with local favorites being Kegel’s Inn in west neighborhood. 3 Allis and Mader’s in downtown Milwaukee. Continued on page four Page Other herbs, spices, or vegetable seasonings fa- Ethnic herbs and spices vored by Mexicans include jalapeno, cilantro, garlic, vanilla, cinnamon, and cocoa. Excellent local places Continued from page three_________________________ to enjoy Mexican flavors include Riviera Maya in Bay View and Tres Hermanos in Lincoln Village. Italians Norwegians The familiar taste that identifies Italian red sauce Favorite herbs and spices used by Norwegians include comes from the herbs cinnamon, mustard, cardamon, caraway, coriander, basil and oregano. While fennel, juniper berries, and peppercorns. While one some recipes might in- might ordinarily associate cardamon with Indian cook- clude thyme, rosemary or ing, it is also enjoyed by Nordic people—particularly in marjoram, basil and ore- hveteboller (or Norwegian cardamom buns). gano are always among the ingredients in any var- iant of spaghetti, pizza, or marinara sauce. Garlic, a vegetable, is used ubiqui- tously in Italian cooking as well. Great local places to enjoy the best in Italian sauces (whether pizza or pasta) are Zaffiro’s near Brady Street and Tenuta’s in Bay View. Jews Ashkenazi Jews favor dill, poppy, and caraway seeds as seasonings. If you’ve ever wondered what gives Jewish rye its special flavor, the answer is not nec- essarily rye—it’s most likely to be caraway. This floral, slightly bit- A recently opened local restaurant to enjoy Norwe- ter spice is used heav- gian flavors, including the popular mustard sauce, is ily in flavoring rye Eldr+Rime in Wauwatosa on Mayfair Road. bread. In America, as Jewish-style ryes be- Poles gan to rely on higher percentages of wheat Poles worldwide use a variety of herbs and spices. flour, caraway became Among their favorites are dill, garlic, bay leaf, caraway, the dominant flavor. poppy seeds, vegeta, cloves, allspice, saffron, curry, Caraway also has cinnamon, ginger, turmeric, marjoram, horseradish, other traditional uses in Ashkenazi cuisine, primarily as an added ingredient and parsley.
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