Lectur es Win eTastings Vorträge We inprob en

26 –27 MAY 2014 SCH LOSS REINHA RTSH AU SEN RHEI NGA U Content | Inhalt

Program Schedule Wilhelm Weil 8|9 Opening Remark | Grußwort e

Willi Klinger 11 The Ten Commandments of Marketing Riesling 15 Die Zehn Gebote des Riesling-Marketings

Wine Tasting I 19 “New World” Rieslings …More Traditional than “Old World” Riesling s? Stuart Pigott Rieslinge aus der „Neuen Welt“ – traditioneller als Rieslinge aus der „Alten Welt“?

Prof. Dr. Hans 23 Do We Kno w the Bacics for the Production of Great Riesling Wine s? Reiner Schultz 30 Kennen wir die Grundlagen zur Produktion großer Riesling Wein e?

Wine Tasting II 40 The “Grand Cru” Couple from VDP.GROSSE LAGE : Giuseppe Lauria Riesling Grosses Gewächs and Riesling Spätlese Das „Grand Cru“-Paar: Riesling-Grosse Gewächse und Spätlesen aus VDP.GROSSER LAGE

Panel Discussions 44 The Sommelier’s Experience with Riesling Bernd Glauben 46 Riesling am Gast – der Sommelier

Dr. Manfred Stoll 48 Viticultural Strategies to Manipulate Berry Maturation in Vitis vinifera L.cv. Riesling 50 Weinbauliche Strategien zur Verzögerung der Beerenreife bei der Rebsorte Riesling

Wine Tasting II I 54 Riesling from Danube, Rhine, Nahe, and Moselle: Cornelius und The European Riesling Route Fabian Lange Riesling von Donau, Rhein, Nahe und Mosel: Die europäische Riesling-Schiene

Prof. Dr. Monika 59 How to Optimize the Alcohol Content of Riesling Wines? Christmann 62 Wie optimiert man den Alkoholgehalt von Rieslingweinen?

Wine Tasting IV 66 Riesling and Aging Potential Caro Maurer MW Riesling und Reifepotential

Dirk Würtz 70 Riesling and the Digital World of Wine 75 Riesling und die digitale Weinwelt

81 Lecturers and Moderators 93 Winery Profiles 164 Upcoming Events

3 Program

Monday, 26 May 2014

9:30 a.m. Welcome to the International Riesling Symposium 20 14. 10 :00 a.m. Opening remark 10:30 a.m. Banquet Halls Lecture Willi Klinger ( CEO ÖWM , Wien) The Ten Commandments of Marketing Riesling 11 :30 a.m. Coffee break 11 :45 a.m. Event Tent Wine tasting Moderation: Stuart Pigott (Journalist, Berlin) „New World“ Rieslings … More Traditional than „Old World“ Riesling s? 1: 15 p.m. Lunch 2:00 p.m. Banquet Halls Lecture Prof. Dr. Hans Reiner Schultz (Director, University Geisenheim) Do We Know the Climatic and Viticultural Basis for the Production of Great Riesling Wine s? 3:00 p.m. Coffee break 3: 15 p.m. Event Tent Wine tasting Moderation: Giuseppe Lauria (Journalist, Wiesbaden) The “Grand Cru” Couple from VDP.GROSSE LAGE: Riesling Grosses Gewächs and Riesling Spätlese 4:45 p.m. Coffee break 5:00 p.m. Banquet Halls Panel Discussions The Sommelier’s Experience with Riesling Bernd Glauben (hotelier and president of the German “Sommelier Union ”, Cobur g) Hans Stefan Steinheuer (Steinheuers Restaurant, Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler) Jens Pietzonka (Sommelier, bean & beluga, Dresden) 6:00 p.m. Coffee break 8:00 p.m. Banquet Halls “Walking Wine Dinne r” with chefs de cuisine: Egbert Engelhardt (Consortiu m, Wiesbaden) Mario Hofmann (Kempinski Hotel Das Tirol, Kitzbühl) Hans Stefan Steinheue r (Steinheuers Restaurant, Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler) Felix Hafner (Schloss Reinhartshausen Kempinski, Eltville-Erbach)

4 Tuesday, 27 May 2014

9:30 a.m. Banquet Halls Lecture Dr. Manfred Stoll (University Geisenheim) Viticultural Strategies to Manipulate Berry Maturation in Vitis vinifera L. cv. Riesling

10:30 a.m. Coffee break 10:45 a.m. Event Tent Wine tasting Moderation: Cornelius and Fabian Lange (Journalists, Bad Schwalbach and Armsheim) Riesling from Danube, Rhine, Nahe, and Moselle: the European Riesling Route 12: 15 p.m. Lunch 1:00 p.m. Banquet Halls Lecture Prof. Dr. Monika Christmann (University Geisenheim) How to Optimize the Alcohol Content of Riesling Wines? 2:00 p.m. Coffee break 2:15 p.m. Event Tent Wine tasting Moderation: Caro Maurer MW (Journalist, Bonn) Riesling and Aging Potential 3:45 p.m. Coffee break 4:00 p.m. Banquet Halls Lecture Dirk Würtz (vintner and wine blogger, Gau-Odernheim) Riesling and the Digital World of Wine 5:00 p.m. End of the symposium

5 Programm

Montag, 26 . Mai 2014

9.30 Uhr Willkommen zum IRS 20 14 10.00 Uhr Grußwort 10.30 Uhr Festsäle Vortrag Willi Klinger (Geschäftsführer ÖWM , Wien) Die Zehn Gebote des Rieslingmarketings 11.30 Uhr Pause 11.45 Uhr Zelt Weinprobe Moderation: Stuart Pigott (Journalist, Berlin) Rieslinge aus der „Neuen Welt“ – traditioneller als Rieslinge aus der „Alten Welt“? 13.15 Uhr Lunch 14.00 Uhr Festsäle Vortrag Prof. Dr. Hans Reiner Schultz (Präsident der Hochschule Geisenheim) Grundlagen zur Produktion großer Rieslingweine 15.00 Uhr Pause 15.15 Uhr Zelt Weinprobe Moderation: Giuseppe Lauria (Journalist, Wiesbaden) Das „Grand Cru ”- Paar: Riesling-Grosse Gewächse und Spätlesen aus VDP.GROSSER LAGE 16.45 Uhr Pause 17.00 Uhr Festsäle Diskussion Riesling am Gast – Der Sommelier Bernd Glauben (Hotelier und Präsident der Sommelier Union, Coburg) Hans Stefan Steinheuer (Steinheuers Restaurant, Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler) Jens Pietzonka (Sommelier, bean & beluga, Dresden) 18.00 Uhr Pause 20.00 Uhr Festsäle Walking Wine Dinner mit den Köchen: Egbert Engelhardt (Consortiu m, Wiesbaden) Mario Hofmann (Kempinski Hotel Da s Tirol, Kitzbühl) Hans Stefan Steinheue r (Steinheuers Restaurant, Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler) Felix Hafner (Schloss Reinhartshausen Kempinski, Eltville-Erbach)

6 Dienstag, 27 . Mai 2014

9.30 Uhr Festsäle Vortrag Dr. Manfred Stoll (Hochschule Geisenheim) Weinbauliche Strategien zur Verzögerung der Beerenreife bei der Rebsorte Riesling 10.30 Uhr Pause 10.45 Uhr Zelt Weinprobe Moderation: Cornelius und Fabian Lange (Journalisten, Bad Schwalbach und Armsheim) Riesling von Donau, Rhein, Nahe und Mosel: Die europäische Riesling-Schiene 12.15 Uhr Lunch 13.00 Uhr Festsäle Vortrag Prof. Dr. Monika Christmann (Hochschule Geisenheim) Wie optimiert man den Alkoholgehalt von Rieslingweine n? 14.00 Uhr Pause 14.15 Uhr Zelt Weinprobe Moderation: Caro Maurer MW (Journalistin, Bonn) Riesling und Reifepotential 15.45 Uhr Pause 16.00 Uhr Festsäle Vortrag Dirk Würtz (Winzer und Weinblogger, Gau-Odernheim) Riesling und die digitale Weinwelt 17.00 Uhr Ende des Symposiums

7 Opening Remarks

Wilhelm Weil (Chairman, VDP-Rheingau)

Honored Attendees of the "International Riesling Symposium,"

The first “International Riesling Symposium" (IRS) ,hosted in the Rheingau back in 2010 , proved to be a stunning success. The original idea behind the symposium was simple: to provide Riesling, widely celebrated around the globe as the noblest of white wine grapes, with a platform in its native, German speaking world. And so, on behalf of the VDP-Rheingau, please allow me to welcome you here for this second edition of the IRS.

This symposium is now part of a larger international “Riesling Coalition" – one that also includes the “Riesling Rendezvous" in Seattle and the Australian “Riesling Downunder" in Sydney and Melbourne. These three Riesling symposiums are held on a regular and rotating basis in the USA, Australia and Germany.

Thanks to the tremendous dedication of devoted Riesling winegrowers, sommeliers, spe - cialized dealers and, last but not least, the interested media, Riesling's image has under - gone a resplendent Renaissance. Yet this progress also poses a new challenge for Riesling producers: to preserve and protect the sites and terroir that are the cradles of Riesling. Now is hardly the time to rest on our laurels. Rather, we must forge ahead in the uncompromising pursuit of quality, from the vines and viniculture to the final presentation and marketing, all in an effort to solidify and expand Riesling's recently reclaimed stature.

Over the next two days, recognized Riesling authorities gathered here will explore these topics in open forums and professional tastings. We've scheduled renowned lecturers and moderators to explore issues of relevance, from the vineyard and cellar to the market and media.

We at VDP-Rheingau consider ourselves very lucky to have garnered the attendance and participation of colleagues from top wine estates around the world.

And so let us all together express our hope and gratitude for two Riesling-rich days here in the Rheingau. I can think of few places better suited to host such a distinguished Riesling symposium, since the Rheingau's motto might well be: Rheingau is Riesling and Riesling is Rheinga u!

Wilhelm Weil Chairman of the VDP-Rheingau

8 Grusswort

Wilhelm Weil (Vorsitzender des VDP-Rheingau)

Liebe Teilnehmer am „Internationalen Riesling Symposium“, im Jahre 2010 hatte das „Internationale Riesling Symposium“ (IRS) hier im Rheingau seine erfolgreiche Premiere. Anstoß dazu gab die Idee, dem Riesling, von vielen und welt weit als wertvollste Weißwein-Rebsorte gefeiert, an seinem Ursprung, dem deutsch- sprachigen Raum, mit einem Symposium eine große Bühne zu bieten. Und nun kann ich Sie im Namen des VDP-Rheingau zum zweiten IRS willkommen heißen.

Das IRS ist heute zusammen mit dem „Riesling Rendezvous“ in Seattle und dem aus- tra lischen „Riesling Downunder“ in Sydney und Melbourne in einer internationalen „Riesling Coalition“ verbunden. Diese drei Riesling-Symposien finden nunmehr drei- jährig alternierend in den USA, Australien und Deutschland statt.

Auf Grund de s großen Einsatzes engagierter Riesling-Winzer, Sommeliers, Fach händler und nicht zuletzt der begleitenden Medien erfährt der Riesling derzeit weltweit eine Renaissance seines strahlenden Images. So muss es heute für die Riesling-Erzeuger mehr denn je darum gehen, die Heimatregionen des Rieslings und seine wertvollsten Terroirs zu bewahren. Es ist somit nicht die Zeit, sich auf Erfolgen auszuruhen, viel - mehr gilt es, mit kompromissloser Qualitätsarbeit auf allen Ebenen – von der Rebe über die Önologie bis hin zu Präsentation und Vermarktung – die wieder er reichte Position des Rieslings zu sichern und weiter zu entwickeln.

Darüber wollen wir an den kommenden zwei Tagen des IRS im Kreise anerkannter Riesling-Experten gemeinsam diskutieren und Rieslinge in fachlichen Proben ver- kosten. Namhafte Referenten und Moderatoren werden die Rebsorte Riesling unter den Aspekten Weinberg, Keller, Markt und Medien beleuchten.

Wir schätzen uns als VDP-Rheingau sehr glücklich, dass für die fachlichen Wein- proben befreundete Spitzenwinzer aus aller Welt unserer Einladung gefolgt sind.

So wünsche ich uns allen zwei erkenntnisreiche Tage rund um den Riesling. Der Rhein- gau ist als Veranstaltungsort für ein Riesling-Fachsymposium sicher außergewöhnlich prädestiniert, denn für den Rheingau gilt: Rheingau ist Riesling und Riesling ist Rheinga u!

Wilhelm Weil Vorsitzender des VDP-Rheingau

9 Willi Klinger

The Ten Commandments of Marketing Riesling

Willi Klinger, Managing Director of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board, was invited to reflect on the opportunities and challenges faced in the marketing Riesling wines. However, the eloquent and experienced Klinger was confronted with unexpectedly tough resistance. The title itself might be provocative; why the 10 commandment s? And who is actually doing the commandin g? Is there such a thing as Riesling marketin g? To consider the marketing of a single grape variety usually provokes Willi Klinger to react like a red rag being waved at a bull. If this is the case, then who is to be in charge of marketing Rieslin g? After all, there is a current discord in the communication that irritates, rather than informs the consumer in the already complex issue of Riesling. Is this leading to sheer confusion, rather than showing the way to Riesling paradis e?

In preparation for his lecture, Klinger interviewed experts from around the world. The reaction to the main dilemma faced for Riesling was virtually unanimous. While Riesling is undis- puted as being the world’s finest white grape variety, its image is turbid: wines range from the shining heights of absolute world class, down to the rock bottom, cheap and mass produced plonk. So, you ask yourself: can Riesling be considered a consistent type of win e?

At first it makes sense to look at some quantitative data. On the whole, Riesling is the seventh most planted white grape variety, and in total plantings, it is ranked 1 8th. According to an analysis compiled by the University of Adelaide, the global Riesling acreage dropped from 52,000 hectares (ha) to 43,000 ha between 1990 and 2000, but rose again between 2000 and 2010 to more than 50,000 ha. Approximately 45 percent of Riesling is planted in Germany, and the United States and Australia are ahead of France in second and third place respec- tively. The white grape varieties with the most significant decrease in acreage between 2000 and 2010 include Airen, Welschriesling, Trebbiano Toscano, Müller Thurgau, Chenin Blanc, Pedro Ximenez, Semillon, Garnacha Blanca, Kerner, Pinot Blanc, Muscat Ottonel, Silvaner and Scheurebe. Grüner Veltliner also noted a brief period of decrease, but this has since changed. The largest increases recorded for the same period are Chardonnay (+53,50 0ha), Sauvignon Blanc ( +45,000 ha), Pinot Gris (+25.000 ha), Verdejo (+12,000 h a), Prosecc o/ Glera (+11,000 ha), Königsas t/ Feteasc aˇ Regal aˇ ( +10,000 ha) and Viognier (+8,200 ha). The growth of 7,000 ha for Riesling obviously reflects the trend.

Another factor is the divided image of Riesling. Even though the grape variety character enjoys high recognition and appreciation in the circle of connoisseurs, this is masked by the

11 Willi Klinger image held by the average consumer, marked by fear, or at the very least uncertainty. The negative feelings are nourished, paradoxically, by a substance that average consumers normally viewed in a positive light: sugar. The question of the residual sweetness of Riesling splits the image up to the point that even connoisseurs become confused. This situation is not helped when new Riesling producing areas such as Oregon bring mainly sweet Rieslings onto the market, and therefore reinforce the sweet style image of Riesling in the important US market again, while the dry style of Riesling is so dominant in Europe. This threatens the segment of the great, elegant style of Riesling with natural sweetness, as those connoisseurs who know and appreciate this sublime style of world class wines are in constant decline. At the same time the mass-produced, entry-level medium-sweet style has been riding on the reputation of Riesling for decades.

Grape varieties do play a major role in wine marketing. However, the variety should never be the focus alone, as the risk of having interchangeable wines is the greatest danger. The out - come is a downward price spiral, with the situation of Sauvignon Blanc being one example. Therefore, it is vital and positive to support the marketing of Riesling with a strict system of wine origin that can be traced back to the smallest, most precise vineyard site. Classifications are also a useful instrument, but this can only come at the end of a structuring development, says Jancis Robinson, “This is fine for the converted, but Riesling as a concept and flavour needs much more done for it before we get to this. And anyway, sweetness levels are a much bigger issue than precise provenance”.

As important as the vineyard site of the smallest, highest-quality origin of a top-quality wine might be, the grape variety, the region of origin and its predominant wine style are prerequisites to the success of generic wine marketing. Therefore, the most successful origin marketing concepts combine the name of the wine region with one or a few clearly defined wine profiles. The name of the wine-growing area becomes the name of the wine, such as Barolo. This concept offers a clear definition of the style of wine produced. This is the optimum in generic marketing, and Austria has chosen to take the same path as its Latin counterparts in its on-going “DA C” appellation system. The Wachau wine region’s three-tier quality wine system introduced in the 198 0s, which accounts for three dry styles of wines, is perfectly in line with this strategy. The crucial factor is that behind the official appellation systems, lies a network of interbranch organisations (regional and national committees) that structure the wine policy for the particular area and can generate generally valid rules via the national committee and regulation by the Minister of Agriculture. As long as the nation’s best wine producers become and remain actively involved in the regional committees – ideally holding the majority – can this system prove to be more effective than a private association or a system of collective brands. In this way, communication can be planned strategically and marketing between the territories and the national institutes are interlinked, thus maxi-mising synergies. Nevertheless, if top producers refuse to participate, this system falls into non-effective regulation.

12 The 10 Commandments of Marketing Riesling

The difficulty in Germany lies in the strong federal autonomy of regional states (“Länder”) and therefore, the competence in policy making of umbrella branding is limited. This position is further weakened by the decisive influence of large-scale producers, as well as the dominance of the German wine cooperatives. Yet there is also cause for optimism. The Riesling is experiencing a worldwide renaissance, with the increasing appreciation and the subsequent growing demand for high-quality German Riesling on its domestic market as an important prerequisite. However there is a need for improvement in the communication to the complex issue, because official bodies such as the German Wine Institute cannot use the communication content of VdP. It is essential that viticultural policy at state and federal levels work together with the GWI, regional wine advertising bodies and the VdP in order to introduce a common voice of communication. This is most true for the issue of residual sugar, as the rampant uncertainty of the global consumer needs to be dealt with.

Given these difficulties, Californian journalist Dan Berger has worked on a solution of volun - tary labelling with the International Riesling Foundation to create a key of “Riesling Taste Profiles”. The problem here, however, is that the taste boundaries between the four catego - ries of dry, medium dry, medium-sweet and sweet might be in conflict with European Union designation or national legislation. There is still a lot of set-up work needed. The basic idea of the taste sensation is to evaluate the taste profile and style of a wine, formed by an assessment of the interaction between residual sugar, acidity and pH, rather than to judge it on the analytical value of its residual sugar content alone. The producer can now classify a wine using the IRF summary chart illustrated on the back label: The vector arrow points towards the corresponding Riesling taste profile. In the United States, 26 million bottles already display this chart on the back label.

Another remarkable Marketing initiative born in the USA started in the “Terroir” wine bar, run by Paul Grieco in New York's East Village in 2008. The “Summer of Riesling” became a major national event. This was followed by a participation by Austria, Alsace, the Finger Lakes region and Australia in the 2012 “Summer of Riesling” spectacle. Germany is set to gain the most from this, especially after the “31 Days of German Riesling” celebration under the “Summer of Riesling” brought the appropriate synergies with it and reinforced Germany's position as a world-wide leading Riesling producer.

Rising market opportunities are coming for Riesling in Asia. Despite the fact that Asian markets, and especially China, still have a very low consumption of wine per capita with a share of over 80 percent red wine, the proportion of white wine is expected to rise. More- over, young people are receptive to Western lifestyle and trends, and are enthusiastically attending “Wining & Dining” events, and this is happening more and more, even though food and wine pairing does not form part of the traditional Chinese food ritual. However, be careful! You cannot make the same comparisons of flavours and fruit characters in Asia. There are also a lot of cultural traps when trying to compare, so it is important to proceed with caution. For the sake of Riesling’s reputation and consumer-friendly information, it is

13 Willi Klinger imperative to refer to the profound publications available. Two new forthcoming books in English, by means of example, include the “Best White Wine on Earth - The Riesling Book” by Stuart Pigott, and the book on dry Riesling by the American John Haeger, due for release in 2015.

The main task for the generic marketing of Riesling would be to freshen up the old-fashion - ed image of the grape variety. Young consumers are currently flocking to the Orange and Natural Wines movements, where Riesling hardly plays a role. With Riesling as an example it could be interesting to find out how much “natural” Fine Wine could ever be without losing its finesse and grandeur. In any case, the key task is to tackle the appeal of Riesling, along with its wine-growing areas, with a younger generation in mind. The GWI “Next Generation” initiative, as well as the aforementioned “Summer of Riesling” campaign are certainly steps in the right direction.

Willi Klinger mag Managing Director of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board

14 Willi Klinger

Die zehn Gebote des Rieslingmarketings

Der Geschäftsführer der Österreich Wein Marketing GmbH, Willi Klinger, wurde eingeladen, sich unter diesem Arbeitstitel Gedanken über die Chancen und Probleme bei der Vermarktung von Riesling zu machen. Dabei stieß der sonst so erfahrene und eloquente Klinger auf un- erwartet zähen Widerstand. Schon der Titel macht Probleme: Warum gerade 10 Gebot e? Und: Wer gebietet d a? Gibt es überhaupt ein Rieslingmarketing, wo doch Rebsortenmarketing für Klinger normalerweise ein rotes Tuch is t? Und wenn schon: Wer soll für das Riesling - marketing verantwortlich sei n? Ist es nicht gerade die Kakophonie in der Kommunikation, die den Konsumenten bei dem ohnehin schon so komplexen Thema Riesling in tiefste Verwirrung stürzt, anstatt ihm den Weg ins Rieslingparadies zu weisen?

Für seinen Vortrag befragte Klinger Experten aus aller Welt und bekam fast unisono das Riesling-Hauptdilemma erklärt: Während der Ruf des Rieslings als edelste weiße Rebsorte der Welt unbestritten ist, bleibt das Image der Rieslingweine ein höchst verworrenes. Von den lichten Höhen absoluter Weltklasse bis in die finsteren Keller der billigen Massenproduktion reicht das Erscheinungsbild dieser Kategorie, sodass man sich fragen muss: Ist Riesling als durchgehender Weintyp überhaupt fassba r?

Dazu helfen zunächst einige quantitative Überlegungen. Insgesamt liegt der Riesling unter allen Rebsorten weltweit an der 18. Stelle, unter den weißen Sorten am siebenten Platz. Laut einer Analyse der Universität Adelaide ging die Welt-Rieslingfläche zwischen 1990 und 2000 von 52.000 ha auf 43.000 ha zurück, stieg aber zwischen 2000 und 2010 wieder auf über 50.000 ha. Davon fallen ca. 45 Prozent auf Deutschland. Aber schon auf Platz 2 und 3 liegen die USA und Australien, noch vor Frankreich. Die prominentesten Verlierer bei der Anbaufläche waren bei den weißen Sorten zwischen 2000 und 2010 u .a. Airen, Welschriesling, Trebbiano Toscano, Müller-Thurgau, Chenin Blanc, Pedro Ximenez, Semillon, Garnacha Blanca, Kerner, Pinot Blanc, Muscat Ottonel, Silvaner und Scheurebe. Auch der Grüne Veltliner hatte in diesem Zeitraum etwas verloren, legt aber seither wieder zu. Die stärksten Zuwächse verzeichneten im selben Zeitraum Chardonnay (+ 53.500 ha), Sauvignon Blanc (+ 45.000 ha), Pinot Gris (+ 25.000 ha), Verdejo (+12.000 ha), Prosecco (+ 11.000 ha), Königsas t/ Feteasc aˇ Regal aˇ (+10.000 ha) und Viognier (+8.200 ha). Aber auch Riesling liegt mit einem Plus von 7.000 ha offensichtlich im Trend.

Eine andere Sache ist das gespaltene Riesling-Image, wenn neben der hohen Anerkennung und Wertschätzung für die besten Sortenvertreter in Kennerkreisen die Gefühlslage des

15 Willi Klinger

Durchschnittskonsumenten zutage tritt. Und diese ist bei Riesling geprägt von Angst oder zumindest Unsicherheit. Die negativen Gefühle nähren sich paradoxer Weise an einer Substanz, die für Otto Normalverbraucher normalerweise positiv besetzt ist: Zucker. Die Frage der Süße spaltet das Bild vom Riesling bis zu dem Punkt, wo selbst Kenner nicht mehr wissen, was hier jetzt Sache ist. Dabei ist es wenig hilfreich, wenn neue Rieslinggebiete wie Oregon hauptsächlich süßliche Rieslinge auf den Markt bringen und damit das Rieslingbild im wichtigen US-Markt wieder verstärkt in die liebliche Richtung drängen, während in Europa der trockene Riesling derart dominiert, dass selbst die großen fruchtsüßen Vertreter Gefahr laufen, marginalisiert zu werden. Das Dilemma der fruchtsüßen Rieslinge besteht darin, dass eine immer kleiner werdende Kennerschaft weiß, dass die Spitzengewächse dieses Typs absolute Weltklasse sind, während gleichzeitig liebliche Massenprodukte im Billigbereich seit Jahrzehnten diesen Ruf konterkarieren.

Im Weinmarketing spielen Rebsorten eine große Rolle. Aber die Sorte darf niemals allein im Vordergrund stehen, denn Austauschbarkeit ist die größte Gefahr, in eine Preisspirale nach unten zu geraten. Das sieht man am besten bei Sauvignon Blanc. Daher ist es wichtig und positiv, das Rieslingmarketing mit einem strengen Herkunftsmarketing bis hin zur kleinsten Einheit der Einzellage zu unterstützen. Auch Lagenklassifikationen sind ein taugliches Instrument, aber sie können nur das Ende einer Strukturierungsentwicklung sein, sagt auch Jancis Robinson: „This is fine for the converted but Riesling as a concept and flavour needs much more done for it before we get to this. And anyway, sweetness levels are a much big - ger issue than precise provenance. (Das ist gut für die Bekehrten, aber für Riesling als Konzept und Geschmack muss noch viel mehr getan werden, bevor wir zu diesem Punkt kommen. Und überhaupt, der Restzuckergehalt ist der viel wichtigere Punkt als die präzise Herkunft).“

So wichtig die Lage als kleinste, hochwertigste Herkunft eines Spitzenweins auch ist: Für das generische Dachmarketing sind neben der Rebsorte zuallererst das Weinbaugebiet und seine vorherrschende Weinstilistik am wichtigsten. Deshalb verbinden die erfolgreichsten Herkunftsmarketingkonzepte den Namen des Weinbaugebiets mit einem oder wenigen klaren Weinprofil(en). Der Name des Gebiets wird zum Namen des Weins, z .B. Barolo. Diesem Begriff steht als Begriffsinhalt ein klar definierter Weinstil zur Verfügung. Das ist das Optimum im generischen Marketing, deshalb geht Österreich mit seinem kontinuierlich weiter ausge- bauten Appellationssystem unter dem Kürzel „DAC“ diesen aus den romanischen Ländern bekannten Weg. Die in den achtziger Jahren eingeführten Gebietsmarken der Wachau sind dazu keinesfalls ein Widerspruch, denn auch sie definieren für das Gebiet klare Weinstile in drei Kategorien, die allesamt trocken sind. Entscheidend dabei ist, dass hinter offiziellen Appellationssystemen ein Netz von Branchenorganisationen steht, die die Weinbaupolitik für das Gebiet gestalten und über das nationale Komitee und Ministerverordnungen gesetz - lich allgemeingültig regeln können. Solange die Spitzenbetriebe sich in den Branchen- organisationen stark einbringen und im Idealfall die regionalen Gremien dominieren, ist dieses System besser als ein privat- oder vereinsrechtliches Gefüge im Rahmen von Marken- gemeinschaften. Auf diese Weise kann die Kommunikation strategisch geplant und das

16 Di e zehn Gebote des Rieslingmarketings

Marketing zwischen den Gebieten und der Dachorganisation verzahnt werden, womit maxi - male Synergien entstehen. Wenn die Spitzenerzeuger allerdings nicht mitmachen, führt dieses System zu zahnlosen Regelungen.

Die Schwierigkeit in Deutschland liegt in der starken föderalen Eigenständigkeit der Länder und einer nur schwach ausgeprägten Richtlinienkompetenz des Dachmarketings, dessen Position zusätzlich durch den bestimmenden Einfluss von Großkellereien und das in Deutsch- land sehr starke Genossenschaftswesen geschwächt wird.

Aber es gibt auch Anlass zu Optimismus. Der Riesling erlebt weltweit eine Renaissance, wobei für den deutschen Riesling die steigende Wertschätzung und die daraus folgende wachsende Nachfrage nach hochwertigen Rieslingen auf dem Heimmarkt eine wichtige Grund voraus - setzung ist. Aber es gibt Verbesserungsbedarf in der Kommunikation des komplexen Themas, weil offizielle Stellen wie das DWI die Kommunikationsinhalte des VdP nicht einfach überneh - men können. Umso mehr muss die Weinbaupolitik auf Landes- und Bundesebene versuchen, mit dem DWI, den regionalen Weinwerbungsinstitutionen und dem VdP allgemeingültige kom - munikationstechnische Mindeststandards einzuführen. Vor allem in der Frage der Restsüße muss die weltweit grassierende Verunsicherung der Konsumenten aktiv bekämpft werden.

Angesichts der schwierigen legistischen Verhältnisse stellt das freiwillige Kennzeich- nungs system namens „Riesling Taste Profile“ der International Riesling Foundation mit dem kalifornischen Journalisten Dan Berger als Projektleiter einen ernstzunehmenden Lösungsansatz dar. Die Schwierigkeit liegt derzeit darin, dass die Grenzbereiche zwischen den vier Kategorien „dry“, „medium dry“, „medium sweet“ und „sweet“ Konflikte mit dem EU-Bezeichnungsrecht oder nationalen Vorschriften auslösen können. Hier ist noch viel Abstimmungsarbeit nötig. Dem Grundgedanken, den Geschmackseindruck stärker zu be- werten als den analytischen Restzuckergehalt, soll durch eine Beurteilung des Zusammen- spiels zwischen Restzucker, Säure und ph-Wert Rechnung getragen werden. Der Produzent kann nun seinen jeweiligen Wein auf dem Rückenetikett mit einem EPS Vector Diagramm und dem Vektorpfeil auf der entsprechenden Position geschmacklich einordnen. 26 Millionen Flaschen tragen in den USA bereits dieses Kennzeichnungssystem auf dem Rückenetikett.

Aus den USA kommt auch eine bemerkenswerte Marketingintiative, die 2008 in der „Terroir“ Winebar von Paul Grieco im New Yorker East Village begann und von dort aus unter dem Titel „Summer of Riesling“ zu einem großen landesweiten Eventfeuerwerk wurde. 2012 beteiligten sich auch Österreich, Elsass, die Finger Lakes Region und Australien am „Summer of Riesling“. Deutschland kann hier natürlich am meisten punkten, denn die 31 Days of German Riesling bringen im Rahmen des „Summer of Riesling“ die entsprechenden Synergien und unter- mauern Deutschlands Stellung als führender Rieslingproduzent der Welt.

Steigende Marktchancen ergeben sich für den Riesling auch in Asien. Zwar haben die Märkte, allen voran China, derzeit noch einen sehr geringen Pro-Kopf-Verbrauch und einen

17 Willi Klinger

Rotweinanteil von über 80 Prozent, aber es ist zu erwarten, dass der Weißweinanteil steigen wird. Außerdem sind die jungen Leute empfänglich für unseren Lebensstil und machen west - liche Trends wie „Wining & Dining“ begeistert mit. Auch wenn im traditionellen chinesischen Essensritual kein „Food & Wine Pairing“ vorgesehen ist, greifen die Jungen dieses Thema immer mehr auf. Dabei ist allerdings Vorsicht geboten, denn man kann mit bei uns üblichen Vergleichen von Aromen und Früchten in Asien wenig ausrichten. Auch drohen jede Menge kulturelle Fallen, sodass bei Vergleichen Vorsicht geboten ist.

Für den Ruf des Rieslings und konsumentengerechte Information sind profunde Publi- kationen unerlässlich. Zwei neue Werke, die in Kürze erscheinen, seien hier stellvertretend genannt: „Best White Wine on Earth – The Riesling Book“ von Stuart Pigott und ein ebenfalls englischsprachiges Rieslingbuch des Amerikaners John Haeger (Arbeitstitel „Dry Riesling“, Erscheinungsdatum voraussichtlich 2015).

Die Hauptaufgabe für ein generisches Rieslingmarketing wäre es, das immer noch etwas altbackene Image der Sorte aufzufrischen. Junge Konsumenten laufen derzeit weltweit in Scharen in die Lager der Orange und Natural Wines über, wo Riesling kaum eine Rolle spielt. Am Riesling könnte sich ja auch die Frage entscheiden, wieviel „natural“ Fine Wine überhaupt verträgt, ohne seine Finesse und Größe zu verlieren. Jedenfalls ist die Frage der Attraktivität des Rieslings und seiner Anbaugebiete für die junge Szene ein wichtiges Kapitel. Die DWI Initiative „Next Generation“ oder die erwähnte Kampagne „Summer of Riesling“ sind dabei sicherlich Schritte in die richtige Richtung.

18 WINE TASTING I Moderation: Stuart Pigott “New World” Rieslings … More Traditional than “Old World” Riesling s? Rieslinge aus der „Neuen Welt” – traditioneller als Rieslinge aus der „Alten Welt”? I 1

I 2

I 3

I 4

I 5

19 Stuart Pigott

I 6

I 7

I 8

I 9

I 10

I 11

20 WINE TASTING I

I 12

I 13

I 14

I 15

I 16

I 17

21 WINE TASTING I | Stuart Pigott

I 18

I 19

I 20

22 Hans Reiner Schultz

Do We Know the Climatic and Viticultural Basis for the Production of Great Riesling Wine s?

Riesling and its beautifully balanced wines have always been linked to the cool climates of Germany. Here the interplay between acidity, aroma and residual sweetness seems at its best, producing wines with enormous tension. But the German climates are warming up, as in the rest of the world, and the big question is whether Riesling growers will have to adapt their viticultural practices in order to maintain the wine styles they have traditionally made.

Although Riesling is historically considered to be the quality grape variety of Germany, it is also grown in many wine regions of the world. Of the roughly 35,000 hectares of Riesling vineyards worldwide, 22,600 hectares are situated in Germany. Alsace (France) has about 3,500 ha, Austria 1,700 ha, Australia 4,500 ha, the US 1,700 ha and New Zealand around 900 ha. All together, this is not much considering that the total amount of vineyards in the world is > 7 million hectare s!

Clearly, not all regions have cool climate conditions, despite Riesling being considered a cool climate grape variety. It’s usually the New World regions which are warmest in summer, such as the Okanagan Valley in Canada, the Yakima Valley in Washington State, USA, or the Adelaide Hills and Clare Valley, Australia, yet Blenheim in New Zealand is on the cooler side of al l “Riesling wine regions” with a reputation. How much do climatic influences mitigate Riesling’s distinct characte r? And can we look to the warmer regions outside of Germany as an exampl e?

1. Does Riesling have a favourite climat e?

In general, Riesling as a grape variety needs cool to intermediate climates to ripen its crop properly. The coolest regions have average growing season (April-October [Northern hemi sphere], October-April [Southern hemisphere ]) temperatures of 13 to 15°C. They are traditionally suited for grape varieties such as (in diminishing order) Müller-Thurgau, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Noir, and to a lesser extend Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. However, while we have no specific information about the upper temperature thres - holds of suitability for these varieties, we do know that Riesling shares with other varieties in this list its adaptability to intermediate climates, with average growing season temperatures of 15 to 17°C. These temperatures reflect the average conditions present for example in Geisenheim (Rheingau, Germany) since the year 2000 (van Leeuwen et al. 2013). Other culti - vars where intermediate climates form the minimum requirement for cultivation are for

23 Hans Reiner Schultz

example Semillon, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, Dolcetto, Merlot, to some extent Malbec, Syrah, and Viognier and on the lower extreme Cabernet Sauvignon. It is clear that this opens up possibilities for Riesling to be present in worldwide regions famous for other (traditional) grape varieties. Yakima Valley in Washington State in the US and Clare Valley in Australia are just two examples.

Beyond temperature, there are many other climatic factors that play a role in the formation of grape composition and ultimately, wine quality. Yakima Valley in Washington for example has the warmest summer, while New Zealand has the coolest average temperature – cooler even than Germany. But the warmest nights in summer are to be found in Austria and Alsace, while Washington State, the Okanagan Valley and the Adelaide Hills have the coolest summer nights, and thus the highest diurnal temperature differences, up to 20°C in Yakima. In Germany, diurnal temperature differences are much lower, between 10 and 12°C during the growing season and between 10 and 8°C in September and October, nearing harvest. Yakima also has most sunshine hours, Geisenheim in Germany and Colmar in Alsace have the least. Precipitation is most abundant in the European Riesling regions and relatively equally distributed throughout the year. It is difficult to draw conclusions from this analysis since it seems almost contrary to our notion what climate conditions are best suited for quality Riesling production; low day-night temperature amplitud e? Low sunshine hour s? Relatively high precipitation rate s?

Several studies have shown that grapevine phenology has significantly advanced in many wine growing regions in the past (Jones et al. 2005; Duchêne and Schneider 2005) and will continue to shift forward with the main ripening period occurring at much higher temperatures (Webb et al. 2007, 2008). However, the predicted changes seem smaller than the existing differences between grape growing regions, despite these regions all having a reputation for quality production with the same variety.

This makes it difficult to draw clear relationships between climatology and vine performance or wine quality since obviously the eco-physiological adaptation and buffering capacity is large. Certainly climatic variables affect grape composition, as evidenced by long-term increases in temperature in the past being implicated in altered fruit composition in Europe, North America and Australia (Schultz 2000; Duchêne and Schneider 2005; Wolfe et al. 2005; Petrie and Sadras 2008, Webb et al. 2012), but there may be counteracting effects if different regions with a different climatic matrix are compared. For example, given that enzyme activity in the fruit is related to temperature, would conditions such as warmer days and cooler nights, thus higher day-night temperature differences have a similar effect as cooler days and warmer nights, thus lower day-night temperature s?

While many studies have used temperature summations to predict shifts in the varietal spectrum (Kenny and Harrison 1992; Schultz 2000; Stock et al. 2005), mainly based on some minimum requirement for sugar concentration, these approaches do not incorporate factors

24 Climatic and viticultural basis for the production of great Riesling wines such as day-night variations, sunshine hours or water availability which are co-factors in quality formation and they additionally neglect possible mitigation strategies through culti - vation methods.

It is also very likely that different varieties will respond differently to warming. For example, an increase in temperature from 20 to 30°C increased the weight of bunch primordia (pre- formed inflorescences in the latent winter buds) 4-fold in Riesling but left Shiraz unaffected (Dunn 2005). Shiraz also showed very little response in basic yield components in a 2 to 4°C warming experiment (Sadras and Soar 2009). In principle, red varieties appear to tolerate warm conditions better than white varieties. In an in-depth analysis of the relationship between vintage quality and the long-term daily mean temperature during the month prior to harvest, Sadras et al. (2007) found contrasting responses for red and white varieties across 24 Australian wine regions. There was a positive correlation of quality ratings and daily mean regional temperature for red but not for white wines, whereas the apparent influence of temperature on vintage variability was strong for white wines but irrelevant for red wines. However, a correlation of wine score data with the average growing season temperature (October to April) showed a negative trend for red and white wines in some of the analysed regions (Hayman et al. 2009).

The differences between Riesling areas are relatively large. But the question remains, are the wine styles Riesling produces in these different countries and regions equally distinc t? Some would argue yes. Despite these differences, it’s still a Riesling character, indicating that for the coolest regions, like Germany, there is significant adaptation potential to climate change. Within most regions where Riesling is grown, climatic variations are smaller. But at the cooler end of climate requirements, i.e. in the coolest climates, these small variations can have substantial consequences for the wine styles produced within these regions and site-specific conditions may well lead to slightly different wines (warmer, fruitier etc.) (Fischer 2011).

2. Riesling and its soils

Apart from Riesling’s climatic preferences, we also need to look at its suitability to soil. It seems logical to presume that if this grape variety is grown in varied regions and climates without losing its varietal character, it must also be capable of growing on different soils while retaining its unique properties. In Germany alone there are numerous different soil types on which Riesling is grown: rhyolite (red shale), loam, limestone, quartzite, sand, slate, red clay, sandstone and basalt. Within these diverse types there are also more subtle differences. Slate for example exists in different forms and colours like red, blue, grey and yellow.

Different soil types have different compositions and availability of nutrients for the vine. Stone soils like slate for example have lower nutrient levels and are less fertile than alluvial soils. Vin es on stone soils will produce wines with a more steely and restrained character than vines grown on alluvial soils. This leads many wine lovers to claim that stone soils will provide wines

25 Hans Reiner Schultz

with more minerality (Fischer 2011). There is however no direct proven link between the soil composition and the taste of a wine although there are some correlations (Bauer et al. 2011). And the nutrient content of the soil may not be the decisive factor per se if water availa- bility is limited and thus transport capacity for nutrients from the soil to the vine.

But things are more complicated than that. The dark colour of some stony soils, grey slate in the Mosel region for example, may compensate for the lack of nutrients, encouraging specific aroma profiles. The heat captured during the day in the stones is reflected onto the grapevine canopy in the early hours of the night, thus lowering diurnal temperature differences and prolonging enzymatic processes – like the accumulation of sugars and the degeneration of acids – within the vine and the fruit. Soil colour affects the ability to reflect sunlight radiation into the canopy both in quantity and quality. The ratio of red to far-red light (66 0nm– 73 0nm) has an effect on a pigment complex (phytochrome) which deter- mines the activity of certain enzymes in the grapes, like invertase (important for sugar accu - mulation), PAL (Phenylalanine Ammonium Lyase, for the formation of phenolic compounds) and nitrate reductase (important for amino acid supply). Red and far-red light is more reflected into the canopy on white soils, followed by red and brown soils (Stoll et al. 2008). Black soils have a markedl y lower reflected radiation which causes them to heat up drastically (Fig . 1). The differences between the different soils are largest in summer and decrease to- wards the end of the growing season.

Fig. 1

Effects of soil surface material on soil surface temperature at mid-day (2- 3 pm). Soil surface temperature was measured by thermal imagery within the row ( 4th of Aug. 2007). Bars represent the maximum and minimum temperatures of sunlit vs. shaded areas of the soil with average temperatures indicated by the horizontal lines. Air temperature was 31. 4°C on average during this time period (Stoll et al. 2008 ).

Soil temperature is inversely linked to fruit temperature, thus black slate has the lowest (because of low reflection) and white pumice which would be representative of limestone soils have the warmest fruit temperatures (because of high reflection) during the day. Thus, phenolic compounds in the grapes are highest in fruit on white soils and lowest on black slate soils (Stoll et al. 2008).

26 Climatic and viticultural basis for the production of great Riesling wines

3. The aromas of Riesling and factors influencing them

As in all other vineyards of the world, grape composition and especially sugar and potential alcohol levels have changed over the last 40 years. The main reason, at least in the most northern grape growing regions, such as Germany (Geisenheim is situated at the 5 0th degree latitude north), is global warming, perfected and supported by the increasing knowhow with regard to viticultural techniques and canopy management in particular. But long-term data show clearly that it is climate evolvement which was paramount. Average potential alcohol levels have risen from 197 0-1986 to 199 4-2013 by about 26 percent. Total acidity levels have decreased from 15.5 grams per litre to on average 9 grams per litre (expressed as tartaric equivalent) over the same time periods. In general, grapes are riper than they used to, but then again the concept of ripeness is not easily grasped and the question of what is perfect ripe - ness has still yet to be answered.

Different chemical compounds are responsible for the unique aromatic profile of Riesling. Citronellol and ␣-terpineol (both terpenes) are responsible for citrus aromas; ␤-ionon and ␤-damascenone (both norisoprenoids) lead to aromas of tropical fruits, apple, apricot and peach; 3-mercaptohexylacetate (a thiol) produces passion fruit aromas, while 3-mercapto-hexanol, 3-sulfanylhexan -1-ol and 2 -phenylethanol are responsible fo r grapefruit, melon and rosy, flowery aromas, respectively. Linalool, geraniol and nerol (terpenes ) lead to flowery and orange-like aro - mas. ␤-damascenone seems to be a powerful flavour component for both red and white varieties bec ause it has been found to be linearly related to perceived wine quality (Ristic et al. 2010) and because it can modify the perception of other aroma compounds even below its own percepti - on threshold (Pineau et al. 2007). ␤-Damascenone in Riesling was found to be higher when soil water content was more abundant and when fruit exposure was maximised (Sack et al. 2010), yet the latter response seems to be variable and may be varietal dependent (Ristic et al. 2010).

Very recently, Schüttler (2012) discovered that the concentration of trans-ethyl cinnamate (TEC) has a significant correlation to Riesling typicity. TEC is not an aroma compound but an odoriferous ester formed during alcoholic fermentation from cinnamic acid. The latter com - pound originates in the grape berry and is formed via the phenylpropanoid pathway by the action of the enzyme PAL. Since PAL responds to both light quality and light intensity, there is a direct link to fruit exposure and probably also to soil colour. Defoliation caused TEC to increase in grapes and wines as compared to a control. However, irrigation had the same effect (Schüttler 2012) suggesting that soil water status also plays a role in perceived typicity. The concentration of this compound increased with bottle ageing (Schüttler 2012). In the same study, Schüttler (2012) found a substantial impact of vine water status and fruit zone defoliation on the concentration of 3-sulfanylhexan-1-ol (3SH), a thiol which was also related to Riesling typicity with descriptors such a s ”melon” and “grapefruit”. Although this compound is formed between pressing and fermentation, there were obvious correlations to viticultural practices and soil water content. 3SH decreased with water deficit and increased with fruit exposure, although the latter response was less clear.

27 Hans Reiner Schultz

One of the most controversial aroma compounds in Riesling, especially in aged wines, is TDN (1,1.6-trimethyl-1.2-dihydronaphtaline), the norisoprenoid responsible for kerosene and petrol aromas. In general, passion fruit and grapefruit play a big role in the aromatic profile of Riesling, while TDN, despite not being unique to Riesling, can add to complexity at low con - centrations and can be overwhelming at high concentrations, once the wines age and their aromatic backbone diminishes. TDN is very potent and 5 0% of the population is capable of perceiving this compound (Sacks et al. 2012). Until recently, the perception threshold of TDN was believed to be 2 0µg/ L, but that figure has been dramatically revised. The new threshold is just 2µg/ L, a concentration 10 times lower (Black et al. 2012).

The cause of TDN and its resulting kerosene aromas is difficult to understand, and science has not yet found a full explanation. In general, TDN levels in Riesling grapes (it is present in the grape flesh) rise when the grapevine experiences drought, heat and nitrogen deficiency (Linsen meier and Löhnertz 2007), and so it seems to be linked to vines being stressed. Its content is linked to sugar increase, and so its level rises with grape ripening, especially in hot climates. But different clones and also different yeast strains during fermentation can enhance the level of TDN in grapes and must (Sponholz and Hühn 1997) and its formation may be rela - ted to the very high ratios of beta carotene to lutein in Riesling as compared to other varieties.

High temperature and sun exposure will increase TDN formation (Marais et al. 1992). Riesling grapes that are directly exposed to sunlight, when the leaves in the fruit zone have been plucked away, have much higher levels of TDN than shaded grapes (Sack et al. 2010). Other research has found that TDN levels decrease when the pH of the grape juice rises which might be the reason why Riesling wines from the Mosel Valley are more prone to kerosene like flavour development. In general, this is linked to soil fertility and nutrient availability, especi - ally with regard to nitrogen and potassium. The higher the nutrient availability, the lower TDN levels seem to be. Recent experiments have demonstrated that there seems to be a “window” during berry development right after bloom when exposure to sunlight will only moderately affect TDN concentration in the wine (Kwasniewski et al. 2010, Schüttler 2012) and this finding might be very useful in developing a strategy to prevent Botrytis (i .e. fruit zone defoliation) but avoid an excessive increase in TDN after bottling.

4. Viticultural measures for potentially great wines

Different soil types have their effects on vineyard microclimate and plant water supply. For many aroma components sufficient water seems to enhance their synthesis with the exception of terpenes (Linsenmeier and Löhnertz 2007, Schüttler 2012). Thus water supply and/or soil management will have an influence on the balance between terpenes and noriso - prenoids and thiols such as ß-damascenone and 3SH.Sufficient water supply, either by natural precipitation or supplemental irrigation, will also prevent the fast formation of TDN and other ageing compounds (Schultz and Gruber 2005). Precipitation distribution during the season is of some concern, since summer rainfall is projected to decrease and winter precipitation

28 Climatic and viticultural basis for the production of great Riesling wines to increase with a continuous increase in the evaporative demand of the atmosphere. The correct choice of rootstock and planting density can partly counteract these developments. Figure 2 shows how rooting depth is affected by increasing planting density within the row. At comparable yields and sugar levels, the deeper root system improves plant water relations and amino acid concentration in the juice and results in higher quality wines (Schultz 2005).

Fig. 2

Changes in root length density throughout the soil profile for two different planting densities in a Geisenheim Riesling vineyard (on 5C rootstock). Row distance was 2 m and distance between vines was 0. 6m(high density, approx. 8330 plant s/ ha) and 2. 4 m (low density, approx. 2.080 plant s/ ha). Pruning level per m 2 was maintained equal between treatments. Measurements were conducted in 2005 when the vineyard was 28 years old (Viehauser and Adam 200 6).

For the production of great Riesling wines canopy management is especially important. If fruit zone defoliation is applied for Botrytis protection it needs to be performed around bloom or after veraison to avoid high TDN concentrations. This may also support the formation of other aromatic compounds contributing to Riesling typicity such as TEC and 3SH. Yield regulation is important but great wines do not necessarily need extreme low yields since excessive down-regulation of yield will cause the formation of more compact bunches and increase the risk for Botrytis. Halving of clusters has been shown to be beneficial for both quality and tole - rance to Botrytis. Harvest date is crucial for every variety, but extremely late harvests will increase the propensity of TDN formation, especially on acid soils. Thus for longevity and balance harvesting extremely late may not be the optimum especially in warm vintages.

Prof. Dr. Hans Reiner Schultz President of Geisenheim University

29 Hans Reiner Schultz

Kennen wir die Grundlagen zur Produktion großer Riesling Wein e?

Die Sorte Riesling mit ihren ausgewogenen Weinen wurde immer mit den kühlen Klimazonen Deutschlands in Verbindung gebracht. Unter diesen Bedingungen scheint die Balance zwischen Säure, Aroma und Restzucker am ausgewogensten. Aber die deutschen Anbaugebiete er- wärmen sich wie die meisten Rebenanbaugebiete der Welt, und es stellt sich die Frage, ob der Winzer sein weinbauliches Management anpassen muss, um die traditionelle Stilrichtung auch in Zukunft zu verfolgen.

Obwohl Riesling traditionell als die Qualitätsrebsorte Deutschlands gilt, wird sie doch in vielen Regionen der Erde angebaut. Von den grob geschätzten 35.00 0 ha weltweiter Rieslingfläche befinden sich ca. 22.600 derzeit in Deutschland. Im Elsass findet man ca. 3.50 0 ha, in Öster - reich 1. 70 0 ha, Australien 4.500 , den USA 1. 700 und in Neuseeland ca. 90 0 ha Im Vergleich zur welt weiten Rebfläche von > 7 Millionen Hektar ist dieser Anteil verschwindend gerin g!

Auf den ersten Blick sind nicht alle Regionen wirklich „kühle Klimaregionen“, obwohl Riesling als Rebsorte kühler Klimazonen gilt. Vor allem die Überseeregionen sind weitaus wärmer im Sommer, wie z .B. das Okanagan Valley in Kanada, das Yakima Valley in Washington State, USA, oder die Adelaide Hills und das Clare Valley in Australien, während Blenheim in Neuseeland auf der eher kühlen Seite aller Riesling Weinanbaugebiete mit einem Ruf für hohe Qualität liegt. Inwieweit beeinflusst das Klima den Charakter dieser Rebsorte und kann man die Bedingungen ausländischer Regionen für eine solche Beurteilung heranziehe n?

1. Gibt es für Riesling ein ideales Klim a?

Generell weisen die kühlsten Regionen, die mit Riesling bestockt sind, durchschnittliche Temperaturen während der Vegetationsperiode (April-Oktober [Nord Hemisphär e], Oktober- April [Süd Hemisphäre ]) von 13 bis 15°C auf. Innerhalb dieser Spanne sind traditionell auch Müller-Thurgau, Grauburgunder, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Spätburgunder und etwas weniger häufig Chardonnay und Sauvignon Blanc zu finden. Dabei gibt es keine Informationen hin- sichtlich des oberen Temperaturschwellenwertes für die Sorteneignung. Allerdings scheint die Anpassung an die nächst höheren „Temperaturklassen“ von 15 bis 17 ° C, die z .B. die Be - dingungen wiedergeben, die in Geisenheim durchschnittlich seit dem Jahr 2000 zu registrieren waren, weder für Riesling noch für die anderen Sorten der oberen Liste ein Problem darzu- stellen (van Leeuwen et al. 2013). Andere Sorten, für die diese „Temperaturspanne“ als Minimum voraussetzung für die Kultivierung gilt, sind z .B. Semillon, Cabernet Franc,

30 Kennen wir die Grundlagen zur Produktion großer Riesling Wein e?

Tempranillo, Dolcetto, Merlot und mit gewissen Abstrichen Malbec, Syrah und Viognier sowie Cabernet Sauvignon. Hier wird die Überschneidung deutlich, die in der Eignung mit anderen Rebsorten besteht, und damit ist grundsätzlich die Möglichkeit gegeben, Riesling auch in Regionen zu kultivieren, die eher für andere (ebenfalls traditionelle) Rebsorten bekannt sind, dabei sind das Yakima Valley in Washington State in den USA und das Clare Valley in Australien nur zwei Beispiele.

Die Temperatur ist allerdings nur ein Klimafaktor, der für die Bildung und Einlagerung von Inhaltsstoffen in die Beere und damit ultimativ für die Weinqualität eine Rolle spielt. Vergleicht man verschiedene Riesling Anbaugebiete weltweit miteinander, dann weist das Yakima Valley in Washington den wärmsten Sommer auf, während Blenheim in Neuseeland die niedrigsten Durchschnittstemperaturen hat, kühler als in den meisten deutschen Wein - anbaugebieten. Allerdings haben Durchschnittstemperaturen nur bedingt eine Aussagekraft. So findet man die höchsten Nachttemperaturen in Österreich (Wien) und dem Elsass, während Washington State, das Okanagan Valley und die Region Adelaide Hills die kühlsten Sommernächte aufweisen und damit auch die größten Tag-Nachtdifferenzen, bis zu 20 °C z .B. in Yakima. In den deutschen Weinbauregionen sind diese Tag-Nachtunterschiede deutlich geringer, zwischen 10 und 12 °C während des Sommers und zwischen 8 und 10 °C im September und Oktober (Daten des Deutschen Wetterdienstes, Außenstelle Geisenheim). Yakima hat im Vergleich auch die höchste Sonnenscheinstundenzahl, Geisenheim und Colmar im Elsass die geringste. Niederschläge sind höher in den europäischen Weinbaugebieten und relativ gleich - mäßig verteilt über das Jahr, während diese niedriger und ungleichmäßiger in den Übersee- regionen anfallen. Es ist schwierig, hieraus generelle Rückschlüsse zu ziehen, da viele dieser Fakten eigentlich konträr zur allgemeinen Vorstellungen liegen, welche Klimafaktoren in welcher Form einen positiven Einfluss auf die Qualität von Riesling haben. Niedrige Tag-Nacht - temperatur unterschiede? Niedrige Sonnenscheinstundenzah l? Relativ hohe Nieder schläg e?

Mehrere Studien haben gezeigt, dass sich die Rebenphänologie in vielen Regionen signifikant verfrüht hat (Jones et al. 2005; Duchêne and Schneider 2005) und sich weiter verfrühen wird und dadurch die Hauptreifezeit unter wärmeren Temperaturen stattfinden wird (Webb et al. 2007, 2008). Allerdings scheinen die vorhergesagten Änderungen innerhalb einer Region ver - gleichsweise gering gegenüber den Unterschieden zu sein, die bereits zwischen unterschied- lichen Rieslinggebieten weltweit existieren.

Deshalb ist es schwierig, einen klaren Zusammenhang zwischen Klima und Rebenleistung bzw. Weinqualität zu ziehen, da offensichtlich die umweltphysiologischen Anpassungs - mechanismen und Pufferkapazitäten sehr hoch sind. Sicherlich beeinflussen Klima kompo - nenten die Traubenzusammensetzung, wie dies durch die Korrelation langfristig gestiegener Temperaturen mit gestiegener Zuckerkonzentration in Europa, Nordamerika und Australien erkennbar ist (Schultz 2000; Duchêne and Schneider 2005; Wolfe et al. 2005; Petrie and Sadras 2008, Webb et al. 2012), aber es kann auch zu sich gegenseitig aufhebenden Effekten kommen, wenn unterschiedliche Regionen mit unterschiedlicher „Klimamatrix“ verglichen werden. Zum

31 Hans Reiner Schultz

Beispiel ist ungeklärt, unter welchen Bedingungen temperaturabhängige Enzymaktivitäten in der Traube, z.B. für die Aromastoffeinlagerung, höher sind – bei warmen Tagen und kühlen Nächten (hohe Tag-Nachtdifferenz) oder kühlen Tagen und warmen Nächten (geringere Tag- Nachtdifferenz) – oder ist das Ergebnis gar gleic h?

Viele Studien, die Temperatursummen verwenden, um Vorhersagen über Veränderungen des Sortenspiegels zu machen (Kenny and Harrison 1992; Schultz 2000; Stock et al. 2005), ignorieren alle anderen Klimafaktoren, die ebenfalls Einfluss auf die Qualitätsbildung haben, und ignorieren ebenfalls, dass der Mensch über Kultivierungsmaßnahmen den Klimaeinfluss abschwächen oder verstärken kann.

Des Weiteren ist es wahrscheinlich, dass Rebsorten unterschiedlich auf erhöhte Temperaturen reagieren. Zum Beispiel erhöhte ein Temperaturanstieg von 20 auf 30 °C das Gewicht der Infloreszenzen (Traubenansatz) in den Winteraugen bei Riesling um ein Vierfaches, während dies bei der Sorte Syrah keine Reaktion hervorrief (Dunn 2005). Syrah zeigte darüber hinaus nur wenig Reaktion in den Erntekomponenten in einem Versuch mit 2 bis 4 °C Erwärmung (Sadras and Soar 2009). Im Prinzip scheinen rote Sorten warme Temperaturen besser zu tolerieren als weiße Sorten. In einer detaillierten Analyse des Verhältnisses der Erntequalität zur langjährigen durchschnittlichen Temperatur während des Monats vor dem Erntezeitpunkt fanden Sadras et al. (2007) komplett entgegengesetzte Reaktionen bei roten und weißen Sorten über 24 australische Regionen hinweg. So gab es eine positive Korrelation zwischen der Qualitätsbewertung und der durchschnittlichen Temperatur für rote – nicht aber für weiße Sorten, wobei der Einfluss der Temperatur auf die Jahrgangsvariabilität bei weißen Sorten stark ausgeprägt war, aber keine Rolle bei roten Sorten spielte. Auch wenn Wein- bewertungsaufzeichnungen in Bezug zur durchschnittlichen Temperatur während der Vegetationsperiode gesetzt wurden, zeigte sich in manchen Regionen für weiße Sorten eine negative Korrelation (Hayman et al. 2009).

Im weltweiten Kontext sind die Unterschiede zwischen den Riesling-Regionen relativ groß. Die Frage besteht, ob die Weinstile, die in diesen Regionen mit Riesling produziert werden, ebenfalls so unterschiedlich sin d? Viele würden dies bejahen und trotzdem „Rieslingcharakter” attestieren, unabhängig vom Anbaugebiet. Am kühleren Ende der Skala scheinen die Variationen aber zuzunehmen und Konsequenten für den Weinstil zu haben. Hier wirken sich lagenspezifische Einflüsse auch deutlich stärker aus, mit Auswirkungen auf den Weincharakter und dessen Beschreibung (z .B. fruchtiger, mineralischer etc.) (Fischer 2011).

2. Riesling und seine Böden

Abweichend von den klimatischen Präferenzen dieser Sorte spielt auch die Bodeneignung ein große Rolle. Es scheint logisch anzunehmen, dass, wenn diese Sorte in relativ unterschied- lichen Klimaregionen angebaut werden kann, ohne ihren Charakter zu verlieren, sie dann eben - falls für ein breites Spektrum an Böden geeignet sein müsste , ohne die „Typizität“ zu verlieren.

32 Kennen wir die Grundlagen zur Produktion großer Riesling Wein e?

In Deutschland findet man entsprechend ein großes Spektrum von Ryolit (felsiges Vulkangestein, rot bis grau) über Löss (hohe Wasserhaltefähigkeit) zu kalkhaltigen Böden, Quarzit, Grauschiefer und roten Tonen. Innerhalb dieser diversen Typen existieren jeweils viele feinere Unterschiede. So kommen z.B. Schieferböden in unterschiedlichen Farben (grau, blau, rot oder gelb) vor.

Unterschiedliche Bodentypen können stark unterschiedliche Zusammensetzungen aufweisen, mit entsprechender Variationsbreite im Nährstoffangebot für die Rebe. Steinige Böden, wie zum Beispiel der Schiefer, haben niedrigere Konzentrationen an bestimmten Nährstoffen und sind somit weniger fruchtbar als z.B. alluviale (Schwemmland) Böden. Ob Reben auf steini- geren Böden Weine mit stärkerer mineralischer Ausprägung hervorbringen, ist Gegenstand von vielen Diskussionen (Fischer 2011). Es gibt bisher keinen wirklich direkten Zusammenhang zwischen der Bodenzusammensetzung und dem Geschmacksbild eines Weines, obwohl Korrelationen existieren (Bauer et al. 2011), deren Kausalität aber schwierig nachzuvollziehen ist. Weiterhin zeigen viele Studien, dass der Nährstoffgehalt per se nicht der entscheidende Faktor ist, wenn die Wasserverfügbarkeit limitiert ist und damit auch die Transportkapazität für Nährstoffe vom Boden in die Rebe.

Neben der Nährstoffverfügbarkeit und dem Bodenwassergehalt spielt die Bodenfarbe ebenfalls eine Rolle. Die dunkle Farbe bestimmter Böden, wie z .B. des Grauschiefers in vielen Lagen der Mosel, kann über die Temperaturverhältnisse sicherlich ebenfalls Veränderungen in der Trauben zusammensetzung hervorrufen. Die Strahlung wird bei dieser Art Boden tagsüber in den obersten Schichten gespeichert und in den frühen Nachtstunden an die Umgebung wieder abgegeben. Dies vermindert die Tag-Nachttemperaturamplitude in der Traubenzone und könnte enzymatische Prozesse fördern, die z .B. an der Zuckereinlagerung oder am Säure - abbau beteiligt sind.

Die Bodenfarbe beeinflusst die Reflektion (Rückstrahlung) in die Laubwand und Traubenzone sowohl hinsichtlich der Strahlungsquantität als auch der Strahlungsqualität (Zusammen - setzung des Lichts). So hat das Verhältnis von hell-rotem zu dunkel-rotem Licht (66 0nm zu 73 0 nm) einen Einfluss auf einen Pigmentkomplex, das sogenannte Phytochrom, welches die Aktivität verschiedener Enzyme in der Traube steuert, wie z . B. die Invertase (wichtig für die Zuckereinlagerung), PAL (Phenylalanin Ammonium Lyase, wichtig für die Bildung phenolischer Inhaltsstoffe) und die Nitratreduktase (wichtig für den Stickstoff- und Aminosäurehaushalt). Beide Lichtbereiche werden durch weiße Bodenoberflächen am stärksten reflektiert, gefolgt von roten und braunen Böden (Stoll et al. 2008). Dunkle Böden haben eine deutlich reduzier - te Reflektion, was zu einer starken Erhitzung führt (Abb. 1). Die Unterschiede zwischen den Böden mit unterschiedlicher Farbe sind im Sommer am größten und nehmen gegen Ende der Vegetationsperiode ab.

33 Hans Reiner Schultz

Abb. 1 Einfluss verschiedenfarbigen Oberflächenmaterials auf die Bodenoberflächentemperatur zwischen 14 und 15 Uhr. Die Temperatur wurde mit einer Wärmebildkamera innerhalb der Rebzeile gemessen (4 .8.2007). Die Balkenlänge repräsentiert die Maximum- und Minimumtemperatur von sonnenexponierten und beschatteten Zonen. Die durch - schnittlichen Temperaturen sind durch horizontale Linien gekenn- zeichnet. Die Lufttemperatur betrug 31.4 °C während des Messzeitraums (Stoll et al. 2008).

Die Bodentemperatur verhält sich umgekehrt zur Traubentemperatur. Die schwarze Oberfläche des Schiefers mit der höchsten Bodentemperatur verursacht die niedrigsten Trauben- temperaturen (bedingt durch die geringste Reflektion von Energie) und der weiße Kalkstein die höchsten Temperaturen (bedingt durch die stärkste Reflektion in die Traubenzone) während des Tages. Dies führt zu höheren Phenolwerten in Trauben von weißen Bodenoberflächen und niedrigen bei schwarzem Schiefer (Stoll et al. 2008).

3. Die Aromazusammensetzung von Riesling und weinbauliche Einflussfaktoren

In allen Weinbauregionen der Erde hat sich in den letzten 40 Jahren die Trauben zu sammen - setzung verändert, was insbesondere die Zucker- und damit die potenziellen Alkohol gehalte betrifft. Die Hauptgründe sind neben den klimatischen Veränderungen auch ein verbessertes weinbauliches Management, vor allem bei der Laubwandgestaltung bzw. bei den Laubarbeiten. Die größte Rolle kann man aber eindeutig der generellen Erwärmung zuschreiben. So ist der durchschnittliche natürliche Alkoholgehalt über die Periode 199 4–2013 ca. 2 6 % höher als in der Periode 197 0–1986. Gleichzeitig sanken die Säurewerte beim Riesling von durch schnittlich 15,5 g/ L, 197 0–1986, auf ca. 9g/ L, 199 0–2013. Obwohl nicht quantifizierbar, gingen mit diesen Veränderungen im Reifegrad auch Veränderungen anderer Inhaltsstoffe einher.

Das Aromaspektrum bei Riesling ist sehr ausgeprägt, aber es gibt einige Schlüssel - komponenten. So sind z .B. die Monoterpene Linalool, Geraniol und Nerol für blumige, orangen- ähnliche Aromaeindrücke verantwortlich. Citronellol und ␣-Terpineol (beides ebenfalls Terpene) sind verantwortlich für Citrus-Aromen; ␤-Ionon und ␤-Damascenon (beides C13-Nori - soprenoide) führen zu Eindrücken von tropischen Früchten, Apfel, Aprikose und Pfirsich; 3-Mercaptohexylacetat (ein Thiol mit einem Geruchsschwellenwert von nur 0, 4ng/ L) pro- duziert ein Maracuja-Passionsfruchtaroma, während 3-Mercaptohexanol (Geruchsschwellen - wert 6 0ng/ L), 3-Sulfanylhexan -1-ol und 2-Phenylethanol, für Eindrücke von Grapefruit,

34 Kennen wir die Grundlagen zur Produktion großer Riesling Wein e?

Melone und Blütenaromen (Rosen) verantwortlich gemacht werden. ␤-Damascenon scheint ein potenter Aromastoff für verschiedene Rot- und Weißweinsorten zu sein, da man lineare Korrelationen zwischen dem Gehalt dieses Stoffes und der sensorisch bewerteten Weinqualität gefunden hat (Ristic et al. 2010) und weil er als „Geschmacksverstärker“ für andere Aroma kom - ponenten fungieren kann, selbst wenn die eigene Konzentration unter dem Geruchs schwellen - wert liegt (Pineau et al. 2007). Bei Riesling scheint die Konzentration von ␤-Damascenon höher zu sein, wenn der Bodenwassergehalt ausreichend ist und wenn die Trauben ausreichender Sonnenstrahlung ausgesetzt werden (Sack et al. 2010). Die Reaktion auf Belichtung scheint aber sehr variabel – und auch von der Sorte abhängig – zu sein (Ristic et al. 2010).

Neuere Erkenntnisse zeigen, dass die Konzentration von Trans-Zimtsäureethylester (TEC) hoch mit der „Typizität“ von Riesling korreliert (Schüttler 2012). TEC ist keine Aromakomponente, aber ein geruchsaktiver Ester, der während der alkoholischen Gärung aus Zimtsäure gebildet wird. Zimtsäure kommt vor allem im Beerenfleisch vor und wird über den Phytopropanoid- Syntheseweg durch das Enzym PAL gebildet. Da PAL sowohl auf die Lichtmenge als auch auf die Lichtqualität reagiert (siehe Kapitel 2 „Riesling und seine Böden“), besteht eine direkte Verbindung zum Traubenzonen-Mikroklima und zur Bodenfarbe.

Entblätterung steigert die Konzentration an TEC in Trauben und Wein im Vergleich zur nicht entblätterten Kontrolle. Allerdings hatte eine Zusatzbewässerung den gleichen Effekt (Schüttler 2012), was darauf hinweist, dass der Bodenwassergehalt ebenfalls eine Rolle in der empfundenen „Riesling-Typizität“ spielt. In allen Fällen steigt die Konzentration dieser Komponente während der Flaschenlagerung (Schüttler 2012). In der gleichen Studie fand Schüttler (2012) einen substantiellen Einfluss des Rebenwasserhaushalts und der Traubenzonen-Entblätterung auf die Konzentration von 3-Sulfanylhexan-1-ol (3SH), einem Thiol, welches ebenfalls mit der Typizität von Riesling korrelierte, allerdings mit den Attributen Melone und Grapefruit in Verbindung gebracht wurde. Obwohl diese Verbindung erst während des Pressvorgangs bzw. der Gärung gebildet wird, gibt es einen offensichtlichen Zusammen - hang zu weinbaulichen Maßnahmen bzw. Standortfaktoren. So nahm die 3SH Konzentration mit zunehmendem Wassermangel ab und stieg mit verbesserter Traubenbelichtung, obwohl die letzte Reaktion weniger deutlich war (Schüttler 2012).

Einer der kontroversesten Aromakomponenten des Rieslings, vor allem in gealterten Weinen, ist TDN (1,1,6-Trimethyl-1,2-dihydronaphtalin), einem Norisoprenoid, verantwortlich für die soge - nannten „Petrol- bzw. Kerosinnoten“. Während in jungen Weinen die fruchtbasierten Noten bei Riesling eine große Rolle spielen und TDN, obwohl nicht nur bei Riesling vorkommend, zur Komplexität der Weine in niedrigen Konzentrationen beiträgt, kann der Geruchseindruck bei hohen Konzentrationen überwältigend werden, wenn die Weine altern und das aromatische „Rückgrat“ sich verändert. TDN ist ein sehr potenter Aromastoff und ca. 5 0% der Bevölkerung ist geruchssensibel für diese Komponente (Sacks et al. 2012). Bis vor kurzem wurde der Geruchs - schwellenwert für TDN bei 2 0µg/ L angenommen, ein Wert, der in der letzten Zeit dramatisch nach unten korrigiert wurde und derzeit bei nur 2µg/ L angesiedelt wird (Black et al. 2012).

35 Hans Reiner Schultz

Die Ursache für TDN und das resultierende Kerosinaroma ist schwierig zu verstehen und die Wissenschaft hat noch keine zufriedenstellende Erklärung. Generell steigen die TDN-Werte in Riesling Trauben (die Vorstufen liegen vor allem im Beerenfleisch) an, wenn die Rebe Trockenheit, Hitze und Stickstoffmangel erfährt (Linsenmeier and Löhnertz 2007). Der Gehalt ist mit der Zuckerkonzentration verbunden, deshalb steigt er mit zunehmender Reife, vor allem in warmen Klimaregionen. Allerdings spielen auch der Klon und der Hefestamm bei der TDN- Bildung eine Rolle (Sponholz and Hühn 1997), und die hohe Bildungsaktivität bei Riesling im Vergleich zu anderen Rebsorten scheint durch das hohe Verhältnis der Vorstufen Betacarotin zu Lutein bedingt zu sein.

Hohe Temperaturen und Sonneneinstrahlung verstärken die TDN-Bildung (Marais et al. 1992). So führt eine Entblätterung zu deutlich höheren TDN-Werten als bei Schattentrauben (Sack et al. 2010). Andere Ergebnisse zeigen, dass die TDN-Werte bei hohen pH-Werten niedriger sind, was ein Grund dafür sein mag, dass Riesling Weine von der Mosel (niedriger pH-Wert) an- fälliger für die Ausbildung eines Kerosintons sind als Weine von anderen Regionen, was auch abhängig von der Stickstoff- und Kaliumversorgung ist. Neue Ergebnisse zeigen allerdings, dass es ein „phänologisches Fenster“ kurz nach der Blüte zu Anfang der Beerenentwicklung zu geben scheint, wenn direkte Sonneneinstrahlung die TDN-Konzentration im Wein nur gering - fügig beeinflusst (Kwasniewski et al. 2010, Schüttler 2012). Diese Resultate sind wichtig für die Entwicklung von Strategien, um Botrytis vorzubeugen (z .B. durch Entblätterung), gleich- zeitig aber das Risiko für eine überhöhte TDN-Bildung zu minimieren.

4. Weinbauliche Maßnahmen für große Weine

Unterschiedliche Bodentypen beeinflussen das Mikroklima eines Weinbergs und seinen Boden wasserhaushalt. Für viele Aromakomponenten scheint eine ausgewogene Wasser - versorgung die Synthese zu erhöhen, mit Ausnahme der Terpene (Linsenmeier and Löhnertz 2007, Schüttler 2012). Deshalb hat die Wasserversorgung bzw. das Bodenmanagement wahr - scheinlich einen Einfluss auf die Balance zwischen Terpenen und Norisoprenoiden sowie Thiolen, wie z .B. ␤-Damascenon und 3SH. Eine ausreichende Wasserversorgung, sei es durch natürliche Niederschläge, Böden mit hoher Speicherkapazität oder eine Zusatzbewässerung verhindert ebenfalls die schnelle Bildung von TDN und anderen Alterungskomponenten des Weines (Schultz and Gruber 2005). Gerade die Wasserversorgung im Sommer wird aber in den meisten Klimamodellen als zukünftig kritisch gesehen, da neben einer Reduzierung der Niederschläge auch eine höhere Verdunstung wahrscheinlich ist. Deshalb ist die richtige Wahl der Unterlage und der Pflanzdichte eine „Qualitätsentscheidung”, die diese Entwicklungen, zumindest zum Teil, abpuffern können. Abbildung 2 zeigt, wie die Durchwurzelungstiefe durch eine erhöhte Pflanzdichte innerhalb der Rebzeile verändert wird. Bei vergleichbaren Erträgen und Zuckergehalten verbessert das tiefere Wurzelsystem den Wasserhaushalt und die Aminosäurekonzentrationen im Most und führt zu besseren Weinqualitäten (Schultz 2005).

36 Kennen wir die Grundlagen zur Produktion großer Riesling Wein e?

Fig. 2

Veränderungen der Wurzellängen- dichte über das ganze Bodenprofil für zwei verschiedene Pflanzdichten in einem Geisenheimer Riesling Weinberg (auf 5C Unterlage). Bei gleicher Zeilenbreite von 2m lag der Stockabstand bei 0. 6m (hohe Pflanzdichte, ca. 8330 Rebe n/ ha) und 2. 4m(geringe Pflanzdichte, ca. 2.080 Rebe n/ ha). Das Anschnitts - niveau pro m 2 wurde für beide Varianten gleich gehalten. Die Messungen wurden 2005 durch- geführt, als der Weinberg 28-Jahre alt war (Viehauser und Adam 2006).

Darüber hinaus ist festzuhalten, dass für die Produktion von hochwertigen Rieslingweinen ein gezieltes Laubwandmanagement wichtig ist. Wenn eine Entblätterungsmaßnahme aus Gründen der Risikominimierung gegenüber Botrytis erforderlich ist, dann sollte diese um die Blüte oder nach der Veraison durchgeführt werden, um die spätere TDN-Bildung zu mini- mieren. Dies könnte auch die Bildung von Aromakomponenten fördern, die erst vor kurzem als Komponenten identifiziert wurden, die zur „Typizität“ von Riesling beitragen, wie z .B. TEC und 3SH . Eine Ertragsregulierung erscheint wichtig, aber große Weine müssen nicht notwendiger - weise mit extrem niedrigen Erträgen einhergehen, da eine starke Entfruchtung die Bildung von kompakten Trauben und damit das Botrytisrisiko fördert. Ein Halbieren der Trauben hat sich als positiv für die Qualität und gleichzeitig für die Reduzierung der Botrytisanfälligkeit erwiesen. Der Lesezeitpunkt ist bei jeder Sorte entscheidend, bei Riesling wird mit sehr später Lese auch die Wahrscheinlichkeit einer starken TDN-Bildung gefördert (da an Zuckergehalt ge - koppelt), vor allem auf sauren Böden. Hier muss man mit Düngemaßnahmen entgegenwirken, die den pH-Werten erhöhen (z .B. Kalium). Entsprechend ist für Langlebigkeit und Balance häufig nicht de r späte Lesezeitpunkt entscheidend, vor allem in warmen Jahrgängen.

37 Hans Reiner Schultz

5. Literature | Literatur

BAUER A., WOLZ S., SCHORMANN A., FISCHER U. 2011. Authentication of different terroirs of German Riesling using sensory and flavour analysis. In: Ebeler, S. Winterhalter, P. Progress in Authentication of Food and Wine, Am. Chem. Soc. 3 5-39. BLACK C., FRANCIS L., HENSCHKE P., CAPONE D., ANDERSON S., DAY M., HOLT H., PEARSON W., HER - DERICH M., JOHNSON D. 2012 . Aged Riesling and the development of TDN. Wine & Viticulture Journal Sept./Oct., 2 0-26. DUCHÊNE E., SCHNEIDER C. 2005. Grapevine and climatic changes: a glance at the situation in Alsace. Agronomy and Sustainable Development 25, 93-99. DUNN G.M. 2005. Factors that control flower formation in grapevines. In: Australian Society for Viticulture and Oenology Workshop Proceedings - Transforming Flowers to Fruit, 11-18, Australian Society for Viticulture and Oenology. FISCHER U. 2011. Making sense of Riesling and Terroir. TONG 9:30-36. HAYMAN P.T., MCCARTHY M.G., SOAR C .J., SADRAS V.O. 2009. Addressing the tension between the chal - lenge of climate change and the adaptive capacity of the wine grape industry. In: Managing grapevines in variable climates: the impact of temperature (eds. Sadras, V.O., C.J. Soar, P.T. Hayman, M.G. McCarthy). South Australian Research and Development Corporation, 184-204. JONES G.V., DUCHÊNE E., TOMASI D., YUSTE J., BRASLAVSKA O., SCHULTZ H.R., MARTINEZ C., BOSO S., LANGELLIER F., PERRUCHOT C., GUIMBERTEAU G. 2005 . Changes in European Winegrape Phenology and Relationships with Climate. Proc. XIV GESCO Symposium, Geisenheim, Germany, 23.8.05- 26.8.05, Vol. I, 55-61. KENNY G.J., HARRISON P.A. 1992. The effects of climate variability and change on grape suitability in Europe. Journal of Wine Research, 3, 163-183. KWASNIEWSKI M.T., VANDEN HEUVEL J.E., PAN B.S., SACKS G.L. 2010. Timing of Cluster Light Environment Manipulation during Grape Development Affects C13 Norisoprenoid and Carotenoid Concentrations in Riesling. Journal of Agriculture and Food Chemistry 58: 6841-6849. LINSENMEIER A.W. LÖHNERTZ O. 2007. Changes in Norisoprenoid Levels with Nitrogen fertilization in aged Vitis vinifera var. Riesling Wines. S. Afr. J. Enol. Vitic. 28, 17-24. MARAIS J., WYK C.J., RAPP A. 1992. Effect of sunlight and shade on norisoprenoid levels in maturing Weisser Riesling and Chenin blanc grapes and Weisser Riesling wines. S. Afr. J. Enol. Vitic. 13, 23-32. PINEAU B., BARBE J.-C., VAN LEEUWEN C., DUBOURDIEU D. 2007. Which impact for ß-Damascenone on red Wines Aromas? J. Agric. Food Chem. 55:4103-4108. PETRIE P.R., SADRAS V.O. 2008. Advancement of grapevine maturity in Australia between 1993 and 2006: putative causes, magnitude of trends and viticultural consequences. Australian Journal of Grape and Wine Research, 14, 33-45. RISTIC R., BINDON K., FRANCIS L .I., HERDERICH M . J., ILAND P . G. 2010. Falvonoids and C13-norisopre - noids in Vitis vinifera L. cv. Shiraz: relationships between grape and wine composition, wine colour and wine sensory properties. Australian Journal of Grape and Wine Research 16: 36 9-388. SADRAS V.O., SOAR C . J., PETRIE P .R. 2007. Quantification of time trends in vintage scores and their varia - bility for major wine regions of Australia. Australian Journal of Grape and Wine Research, 13, 117-123.

38 Literature | Literatur

SADRAS V.O., STEVENS R.M., PECH J.M., TAYLOR E.J., NICHOLAS P.R., MCCARTHY M.G. 2007. Quanti fy- ing phenotypic plasticity of berry traits using an allometric-type approach: A case study on anthocya nins and sugars in berries of Cabernet Sauvignon. Australian Journal of Grape and Wine Research, 13:72-80. SADRAS, V.O., SOAR C.J. 2009 . Shiraz vines maintain yield in response to a 2-4 °C increase in maximum temperature at key phenostages. European Journal of Agronomy, 31, 250-258. SACK C., LAFONTAINE M., HEY M., SCHULTZ H .R. 2010. Einfluss von Entblätterung bei Riesling. Der Deutsche Weinbau 10: 12-15. SACKS G.L., GATES M.J., FERRY F.X., LAVIN, E.H. KURTZ A.J., ACREE T.E. 2012. Sensory threshold of 1,1,6-trimethyl-1,2-dihydronaphthalene (TDN) and concentrations in young Riesling and non-Riesling wines. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 6 0: 299 8- 3004. SCHULTZ H .R. 2000. Climate Change and viticulture: A European perspective on climatology, carbon dioxide and UV-B effects. Invited Review Paper.. Australian Journal of Grape and Wine Research 6:2-12. SCHULTZ H.R. 2005. Pflanzdichte und Qualität. Wie hängt das zusammen? Das deutsche weinmagazin 20/24: 23-27. SCHULTZ H.R., GRUBER B.R. 2005. Bewässerung und "Terroir"- Ergänzung oder Gegensatz. Das deutsche weinmagazin 1/8: 24-28 . SCHÜTTLER A. 2012. Influencing factors on aromatic typicality of wines from Vitis vinifera L. cv. Riesling. Dissertation Université de Bordeaux – Justus-Liebig-Universität Gießen - Hochschule Geisenheim, 212 pp SPONHOLZ W.-R., HÜHN T. 1997. Ageing of Wine: 1,1.6 Trimethyl-1.2-dihydronaphthalene (TDN) and 2-Aminoacetophenone. Proceedings for the 4th International Symposium on Cool Climate Viticulture and Enology pp. VI-37-56. STOCK M., GERSTENGARBE F.-W., KARTSCHALL T., WERNER P.C. 2005. Reliability of Climate Change Impact Assessments for Viticulture. Acta Horticulturae, 689, 29-39. STOLL, M., STUEBINGER, M., LAFONTAINE, M., SCHULTZ, H.R. 2008. Radiative and thermal effects on fruit ripening induced by differences in soil colour. VII Congrès International des terroirs, Agroscope Changins- Wädenswil, Switzerland, CD. VAN LEEUWEN C., SCHULTZ H .R., GARCIA DE CORTEZAR -ATAURI I., DUCHÊNE E., OLLAT N., PIERI P., BOIS B., GOUTOULY J -P., QUÉNOL H., TOUZARD J-M., MALHEIRO A .C. , BAVARESCO L., DELROT S. 2013. Why climate change will not dramatically decrease viticultural suitability in main wine-producing areas by 2050. PNAS, 110: E3051-E3052; doi:10.107 3/pnas.1307927110 VIEHAUSER Y., ADAM A. (2006) Einfluss der Pflanzdichte auf die Wurzelverteilung und die Nährstoff kon - zen tration in unterschiedlichen Bodenschichten. Diplomarbeit, Fachbereich Geisenheim, Fachhochschule Wiesbaden, 20 6pp WEBB L .B., WHETTON P .H., BARLOW E .W.R. 2007. Modelled impact of future climate change on the phenology of grapevines in Australia. Australian Journal of Grape and Wine Research, 13, 165-175. WEBB L.B., WHETTON P .H., BARLOW E .W.R. 2008. Climate change and wine grape quality in Australia. Climate Research, 36, 99-111. WEBB L.B., WHETTON P . H., BHEND J., DARBYSHIRE R., BRIGGS P.R., BARLOW E.W.R. 2012. Earlier wine- grape ripening driven by climatic warming and drying and management practices. Nature Climate Change 2, 259-264. WOLFE D .W., SCHWARTZ M .D., LAKSO A.N., OTSUKI Y., POOL R.M., SHAULIS N .J. 2005. Climate chan - ge and shifts in spring phenology of three horticultural woody perennials in north-eastern USA. International Journal of Biometeorology, 49, 303-309.

39 WINE TASTING II Moderation: Giuseppe Lauria The “Grand Cr u” Couple from VDP.GROSSE LAGE: Riesling Grosses Gewächs and Riesling Spätlese Das „Grand Cr u”-Paar: Rieslin g-Grosse Gewächse und Spätlesen aus VDP.GROSSER LAGE II . 1

II . 2

II . 3

II . 4

II . 5

II . 6

40 WINE TASTING II

II . 7

II . 8

II . 9

II . 10

II . 11

II . 12

41 Moderation: Giuseppe Lauria

II . 13

II . 14

II . 15

II . 16

II . 17

II . 18

42 WINE TASTING II

II 
. 19

II 
. 20

II . 21

II . 22

II  . 23

II . 24

43 Bernd Glauben Panel Discussions “The Sommelier ’s Experience with Riesling”

Notes

Riesling – THE distinguished German variety (“Queen of the Grapes“): noble and ambitious

Riesling stands alongside Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc as one of the classic white wine grapes

“The German Superstar" and also important at the international level

Terroir: hardly any grape varietal reflects its origins and soil so perfect

Crafts: Riesling reflects perfect the vintner’s signature

Traditional and modern times: Riesling was sold as the most expensive wine worldwide around 1900 – but also “cheap and sweet” – present “Riesling Renaissance”

“Light wine” from northern climate

Tremendous segments: Just Riesling shows such a variation of origin and tasting styles (elegant and sustainable, self-confident acid and natural sweetness, dry up to noble sweet)

No high-quality wine list without Riesling

Riesling’s diversity in need of explanation

Multiple compatible: perfect companion of any single menu course and an entire menu

Could accompany easy diverse styles of the global cuisine

A perfect soloist (“wine by glass”) and aperitif

Feels well at the top gastronomy as well as at the “scene”

Riesling is ritzy and also trendy, young, dynamic

The image change of German wine thanks to Riesling

44 Discussion

45 Bernd Glauben Diskussion „Riesling am Gast – Der Sommelie r“

Stichworte

Riesling – eine Profilrebsorte („Königin der Reben“): edel und anspruchsvoll

Mit Chardonnay und Sauvignon Blanc zählt Riesling zu den klassischen Weißweinsorten der Welt

„Der deutsche Superstar“ und auch international mehr und mehr von Bedeutung

Terroir: kaum eine Rebsorte spiegelt ihre Herkunft so perfekt wie der Riesling

Handwerk: Riesling ist ein idealer Spiegel für die Handschrift des Winzers

Tradition und Moderne: Riesling vom Rhein und seinen Nebenflüssen der teuerste Weißwein weltweit um 1 900 – aber auch „cheap and sweet“ – derzeitige „Riesling Renaissance“

„Leichtwein“ aus nördlichem Klimat

Facettenreich: kaum eine Rebsorte zeigt eine solche Bandbreite und Vielfalt nach Herkunft und Geschmackstypen: elegant und nachhaltig, selbstbewusste Säure und Fruchtsüße, trocken bi s edelsüß

Keine anspruchsvolle Weinkarte kommt an dieser Rebsorte vorbei

Seine Diversität macht ihn aber auch erklärungsbedürftig – der Sommelier

„Vielfach kompatibel“ : idealer Begleiter im Menü zum einzelnen Gang, aber auch zum gesamten Menü

Kann diverse Küchenstile der „Weltküche“ spielend begleiten

Aber auch Solist an der Bar („Riesling by glass“) und ideal zum Aperitif

Riesling fühlt sich in der Spitzengastronomie genauso wohl wie im Szenerestaurant

Er ist nicht nur nobel , er ist ebenso „trendy“ , jung und dynamisch

Der Imagewandel des deutschen Weins ist vor allem dem Riesling zu verdanken

46 Diskussion

47 Manfred Stoll | Vanessa Stöber | Susanne Tittmann

Viticultural Strategies to Manipulate Berry Maturation in Vitis vinifera L. cv. Riesling

Abstract Leaf Area to Fruit Weight ratio was investigated into its effects on Riesling, and whether chan - ging this ratio could delay its maturation. Leaf Area was reduced using various manual as well as machine defoliation treatments post-flowering, differing in their position of leaf removal and their intensity. Also, application of antitranspirant agent testing for its impact on the transpi- ration to the vine’s canopy was trialled. Large reductions in the ratio of Leaf Area to Fruit Weight significantly reduced the sugar content of Riesling berries at harvest. The specific im pacts were dependent on the timing of carbohydrate limitation, the position of defoliation, and its level.

Defoliation by machine (MDC: mechanically defoliated canopy) revealed decreases in the rate of maturity however was not as effective in delaying the maturation period as the manual methods SS P(severe summer pruning) and BZD (bunch zone defoliation). Proportion of leaves from lateral shoots to those from main shoots was increased most in MDC, and its impacts on grape compo - sition and rate of maturation varied from a similar treatment SSP. Maturity sampling revealed the impacts of each treatment on the maturing berries. For SSP veraison was delayed by approxi- ma tely two weeks, and all other treatments revealed reductions in must sugar content at harvest.

Berry size was not significantly reduced. Developing a better understanding of canopy charac teris tics will allow refinements of future vineyard management strategies toadapt better to seasonal changes.

Background Similar to many other crops, in grapevines the trend of warming has advanced the pheno- logical development. This affects all phenological stages (Stoll et al., 2010) with implications on harvest date as well as for fruit quality and wine style. With budburst occurring earlier in the season, the period of maturation also advances into the part of the year where climatic conditions are usually the warmest. As extreme weather events are likely to become more frequent ( IPCC , 2007), intense heatwaves or heavy precipitation events combined with a warmer maturation period will become more conducive to a loss in fruit quality. If ripening fruit avoids potentially damaging weather events, warmer conditions are likely to exacerbate sugar concentrations, which could result in a finished wine which has a compromised flavour profile and an unbalanced level of alcohol.

Strategic planning aimed at optimising the vineyard for future climate change, could benefit in the short-term, through application of strategies which adapt the vine to the conditions in that

48 Viticultural strategies to manipulate berry maturation in Vitis vinifera L. cv. Riesling season. Earlier budburst indicating an earlier maturation period, could direct the vine-growers to strategies which aim to delay berry ripening, through modifications to the ratio between leaf area of the vine and the weight of the fruit. Such strategies take advantage of the phenologi - cal stage of the onset of berry growth, post-flowering, where the berry advances through rapid cell division (Ollat et al., 2002). Limitations of carbohydrates at this point will slow berry growth (Ollat and Gaudillere, 1998), which is achieved through significant reductions in vine leaf area.

The successful implementation of treatments such as the aforementioned requires the knowledge of likely impacts of leaf area reductions, both on the vine itself and the composi - tion of the fruit at maturity. These impacts depend on timing of the reduction and position on the vine of leaf removal, as to their effect. Alternatively to leaf removal, the application of an anti-transpirant substance to the vine’s canopy may yield similar results (Palliotti et al., 2010). All of these impacts depend on various other factors, such as the region and its local climatic conditions, the choice of rootstock and its vigour, the cultivar and the intended quality level of the harvested fruit (Coombe and Dry, 2004).

Dr. Manfred Stoll (Dipl. Ing.; Dipl. Biol.) Current Head Department of General and Organic Viticulture, Geisenheim University

Acknowledgements This work was largely funded by the Federal Ministry of Food, Agriculture and Consumer Protection and the Federal Office for Agriculture and Food (BLE) [contract: 281 0HS018, viticultural practices to reduce sugar content in the field]. The expert technical support of Sabrina Samer, Anette Rheinberger as well as Bernhard Gaubatz (all Geisenheim University) is gratefully acknowledged. We would also like to thank the students Mathias Scheidweiler, Gregor Barth, Simon Scheurer and Johann Henschke who contributed through their theses to the project.

Literature Coombe, B .G. and DRY, P .R. 2004. Viticulture 2, Adelaide, Australian Industrial Publishers. IPCC 2007. Summary for Policymakers. In: Climate Change 2007: The Physical Science Basis. Contribution of Working Group I to the Fourth Assessment Report of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change [Solomon, S., D. Qin, M. Manning, Z. Chen, M. Marquis, K. B. Averyt, M. Tignor and H. L. Miller (eds. )]. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, United Kingdom and New York, NY, USA. Ollat, N., Diakou-Verdin, P., Carde, J . P., Barrieu, F., Gaudillere, J . P. and Moing, A. 2002. Grape berry deve - lopment: A review. J. Int. Sci. Vigne Vin 36: 10 9-131. Ollat, N. and Gaudillere ,J.P. 1998. The effect of limiting leaf area during stage I of berry growth on develop - ment and composition of berries of Vitis vinifera L. cv. Cabernet Sauvignon. Am. J. Enol. Vitic. 49: 251-258. Palliotti, A., Poni, S., Berrios, J . G. and Bernizzoni, F. 2010. Vine performance and grape composition as affec - ted by early-season source limitation induced with anti-transpirants in two red Vitis vinifera L. cultivars. Austr. J. Grape and Wine Res. 16:42 6- 433. Stoll, M., Lafontaine, M. and Schultz, H. R. 2010. Possibilities to reduce the velocity of berry maturation through various leaf area to fruit ratio modifications in Vitis vinifera L.cv. Riesling. Progrès Agricole et Viticole, 127: 68-71.

49 Manfred Stoll | Vanessa Stöber | Susanne Tittmann

Weinbauliche Strategien zur Verzögerung der Beerenreife bei der Rebsorte Riesling

Für den Weinbau stellt das Klima die primäre Bestimmungsgröße für die Produktivität und die Qualität dar. Der Klimawandel bringt neue Herausforderungen für den Weinbau mit sich und erfordert eine angepasste Bewirtschaftung. Die phänologischen Entwicklungsphasen der Rebe haben sich in allen deutschen Anbaugebieten in den vergangenen Jahren deutlich nach vorne verlagert. Insbesondere wärmere Winter- und Frühjahrsmonate führen zu einer Verfrühung des Austriebs mit beschleunigter Entwicklung der Reben, Vorverlegung der Blüte und einem früheren Eintritt in die Reifungsphase (25 °Oe). Der im Vergleich zu 1 980 um ca. 16 Tage nach vorne verschobene frühere Eintritt in die Reifungsphase ist auch in Hinblick auf die Trauben - gesundheit von Bedeutung. Eine frühzeitige Zuckereinlagerung in einem Zeitraum mit einer höheren Wahrscheinlichkeit von wärmeren Temperaturen verstärkt das Risiko einer rascheren Fäulnisentwicklung (z .B. Extremjahr Weinlese 2006).

Der Gestaltung der Laubwand durch weinbauliche Bewirtschaftungsmaßnahmen kommt zukünftig eine wichtige Rolle zu. Hierdurch wird sowohl die potentielle Zuckereinlagerung durch die photosynthetische Leistung als auch die Bildung von Aromastoffen durch Licht - intensität und Temperatur beeinflusst (Sack et al. 2010). Die Wahl der Rebsorten und Unter - lagen, unterschiedlichste Bewirtschaftungspraktiken und Produktionssysteme sowie die mikro - klimatischen oder standortbedingten Unterschiede bieten dem Winzer ein breites Instrumen - tarium und Gestaltungsfreiräume. Dennoch ist es eine Herausforderung seitens der Produktion, je nach erwünschtem Weinstil durch Anpassung der Bewirtschaftung eine Ausgewogenheit zwischen der Zucker- und Säurekonzentration sowie der Art und Menge der Inhalts- und Aromaausprägung zu erzielen.

Zuckereinlagerung in die Traube Die Photosynthese stellt den wichtigsten pflanzlichen Prozess auf der Erde dar, bei der aus ener - gieärmeren Stoffen mit Hilfe von Lichtenergie energiereiche Stoffe gebildet werden. Der Photosyntheseapparat und damit das primäre Photosyntheseenzym, die Ribulose-bisphosphat- carboxylase/oxygenase, unterliegen einem kontinuierlichen Ab- bzw. Aufbau von Enzym - komponenten bzw. Teilen der Begleitpigmentstruktur. Eine der wichtigsten Komponenten des Photosystems II, das so genannte D1-Protein, hat z . B. eine Auf- und Abbaurate von nur zwei Stunden (Baker et al . 2004). Wenn auch der „Umbau“ anderer Komponenten des Photosynthese - apparates deutlich langsamer vonstatten geht (Tage bzw. Wochen), so liegt genau hier die Anpassungsmöglichkeit an sich verändernde Umgebungsbedingungen (z .B. Temperatur). Das

50 Weinbauliche Strategien zur Verzögerung der Beerenreife bei der Rebsorte Riesling

Temperaturoptimum für die Photosynthese ist sehr variabel. Innerhalb einer Vegetationsperiode kann das Optimum zwischen 1 8° C und 3 4°C Blatttemperatur liegen, je nach Zeitraum sowie Temperaturbedingungen, an die sich der Photosyntheseapparat anpassen konnte (Schultz 2003).

Neben der C O2-Assimilation kommt dem Zuckertransport in die Traube eine sehr große Be- deu tung zu. Auch hier spielen Enzyme, wie z .B. die Invertase, eine große Rolle. Dieses Enzym spaltet Saccharose (Transportzucker) in die beiden Bestandteile Glucose (Traubenzucker) und Fructose (Fruchtzucker). Da in den Stielchen der Beeren ab dem Weichwerden (Veraison) die für den Wassertransport zuständigen Leitgefäße des Xylems ihre Funktion weitgehend einstellen (Findlay et al. 1 987), erfolgt sowohl der Transport von Mineralstoffen, aber auch von Zucker und Wasser, über die Transportelemente des Phloems. Wasser besitzt hierbei eine wichtige Trägerfunktion und kann durch eine Erhöhung der Wasserverdunstungsrate der Beere auch die Zuckereinlagerung in gewissem Umfang erhöhen (Rebucci et al. 1997).

Blat t/ Frucht-Verhältnis In zahlreichen Untersuchungen hat sich gezeigt, dass das Blat t/ Frucht-Verhältnis (BFV) ein objektives Maß für die Menge oder Güte des Lesegutes in Abhängigkeit von der dafür be- nötigten Blattfläche darstellt. Während in der Vergangenheit vielfach ein Ziel der Forschung die Optimierung bzw. Maximierung des BFV in unseren Klimazonen war, um die Minimal - anforderungen an die Zuckerkonzentration zu erzielen, kann dieses Instrument unter wärme - ren Bedingungen auch zur Verzögerung der Reife genutzt werden. Das Problem, welches sich hier stellt, ist die Erzielung einer optimalen Traubenzusammensetzung bei niedrigeren Zucker - gehalten. Die Einlagerung und Biosynthese von sekundären Inhaltsstoffen, wie z .B. Aromen oder auch Anthocyane und Tannine verlaufen zwar zuckerabhängig, d .h. Zucker als Grund - baustein muss ausreichend vorhanden sein, andererseits sind diese Prozesse aber nicht an die Zuckereinlagerung gekoppelt und haben daher auch unterschiedliche Temperaturoptima. Während die Zuckerproduktion ein relativ hohes Temperaturoptimum erreichen kann, liegt das Optimum für sekundäre Inhaltsstoffe teilweise deutlich niedriger (Mori et al. 2007), was bei einer Klimaänderung dazu führen wird, dass mit dem Erreichen eines gewissen Niveaus an sekundären Inhaltsstoffen immer höhere Zucker- und damit Alkoholwerte ein- hergehen. Dies ist letztendlich in warmen Weinbaugebieten (z .B. Kalifornien und Australien) zu beobachten.

Eine erhöhte Rebenbelastung (mehr Ertrag) wirkt sich reifeverzögernd aus. Entsprechend werden hier Minimalschnittsysteme in der Zukunft Vorteile haben. Diese Strategie führt in Minimalschnittsystemen neben der Zuckerminderung auch zur Minderung der Trauben- botrytis. Problematisch wird die Strategie dann, wenn gesetzliche Rahmenbedingungen für die Produktion existieren, die einen Ertrag stark beschränken (z .B. Erstes Gewächs, Selektions - weine), denn eine sehr späte Ertragsregulierung bedingt automatisch einen hohen Reifegrad des entnommenen Traubenmaterials, was aus phytosanitären Gesichtspunkten nicht im Weinberg verbleiben sollte.

51 Manfred Stoll | Vanessa Stöber | Susanne Tittmann

Eine Reifeverzögerung könnte auch durch Änderung der Laubwandhöhe bzw. durch Verminderung der Assimilationsfläche, beispielsweise durch Entblätterung der Traubenzone, erzielt werden (Petrie et al. 2003). Hier ist immer zu bedenken, dass die Verminderung von Blattfläche in der Traubenzone auch Sekundäreffekte mit sich bringen kann. Zum Beispiel bewirkt die Reduzierung der Blattfläche zwar eine Verzögerung des Reifeverlaufs bei gleichzei - tig geringerem Beerengewicht, aber die durch diese Maßnahme erzielte stärkere Belichtung in der Traubenzone fördert auch z .B. die Synthese von Proteinen aus freien Aminosäuren, die dann in geringerer Konzentration im Most vorkommen können.

Neben der Manipulation des BFV durch Entblätterungsmaßnahmen in der Traubenzone mit Auswirkungen auf die Inhaltsstoffbildung oder einer Reduzierung der Laubwandhöhe und damit einhergehend der Stimulation des Seitentriebwachstums kann die Entblätterung auch maschi - nell (hier: Entlauber Binger Seilzug) über der Traubenzone durchgeführt werden (Stoll et al. 2010). Die Versuchsergebnisse haben gezeigt, dass hiermit eine jahreswitterungsabhängige, dynamische Anpassungsmöglichkeit in Abhängigkeit vom phänologischen Verlauf, z .B. des Blütezeitpunktes oder des Eintrittes in die Reifungsphase, möglich ist. Ein wesentlicher Unter - schied im Vergleich zur Reduzierung der Laubwandhöhe ist, dass die Triebspitze intakt bleibt und es nicht zu einer Stimulation des Seitentriebwachstums kommt.

Das Seitentriebwachstum wird u. a. durch Hormone kontrolliert. Hierbei spielt insbesondere das Verhältnis aus dem in der Triebspitze gebildeten Auxin und dem in den Seitentrieben vorhan - denen Cytokinin eine wichtige Rolle. Das Auxin wird in der Triebspitze gebildet und Richtung Wurzeln verteilt (Kotov und Kotova, 2000). Wird die Triebspitze durch Laubschnitt entfernt, so geht die Quelle für Auxin verloren, das Verhältnis beider Hormone ändert sich und die in den Knospen vorhandenen Cytokinine stimulieren das Wachstum der Seitentriebe. In den eigenen Versuchen blieben bei einer frühen maschinellen Entblätterung über der Traubenzone die Triebspitzen intakt. Das Trieblängenwachstum der Haupttriebe unterschied sich nicht von der unbehandelten Kontrolle und das Seitentriebwachstum war nicht stimuliert.

Erfolgt der Eingriff in das Blat t/Frucht-Verhältnis in einem frühen Stadium der Entwicklung (unmittelbar nach der Blüte), so werden die Beerengröße und damit die Traubengesundheit positiv beeinflusst. In Jahren mit höheren Monatsmitteltemperaturen (Bsp. 2007 und 2009) wurde die Entblätterung auch beim Eintritt in die Reifungsphase wiederholt und auf diese Weise die Zuckereinlagerung, bei sonst vergleichbaren Inhaltsstoffen, verlangsamt.

Sensorische Untersuchungen bei der Rebsorte Riesling haben gezeigt, dass die Weine aus der Kontrolle (hohe Blattfläche, frühe Lese) deutlich „unreifer“ bewertet wurden als die Weine, die bei gleichem Mostgewicht, jedoch geringerer Blattfläche (Entblätterung über der Traubenzone) zu einem späteren Zeitpunkt geerntet wurden (Lesetermin 14 bis 21 Tage nach der Lese der Kontrolle). Die gezielte Verlängerung des Lesezeitraumes in warmen Jahren kann auf Teilflächen ein zusätzliches weinbauliches Werkzeug darstellen, um die Produktqualität zu steuern.

52 Weinbauliche Strategien zur Verzögerung der Beerenreife bei der Rebsorte Riesling

Fazit Der Photosyntheseapparat bietet zahlreiche Anpassungsmöglichkeiten bei sich ändernden Umweltbedingungen. Dies können sich die Winzer zunutze machen und durch gezielte Eingriffe, hier in Form von Entblätterungsmaßnahmen über der Traubenzone dargestellt, das Blat t/ Frucht-Verhältnis beeinflussen. Dadurch ist es möglich, dynamisch auf die Jahres - witterung einzugehen. Dies kann insbesondere in Jahren mit einer sehr früh einsetzenden Blüte oder einem raschen Eintritt in die Reifungsphase zu einer verlangsamten Zuckereinlagerung bei sonst vergleichbaren Inhaltsstoffen sowie der Vermeidung einer zu starken Besonnung der Traubenzone in der Weinbergsbewirtschaftung angewendet werden.

Danksagung Die Autoren bedanken sich bei Mathias Scheidweiler, Gregor Barth (beide ehem. Hochschule RheinMain – Fachbereich Geisenheim), Simon Scheurer und Johann Henschke (beide M . Sc. EuroVinifera) sowie Bernhard Gaubatz (Institut für allgemeinen und ökologischen Weinbau, HSGM) für die sehr gute Zusammenarbeit und Versuchsdurchführung. Die Förderung des Vorhabens (2808HS022) erfolgte aus Mitteln des Bundes - ministeriums für Ernährung, Landwirtschaft und Verbraucherschutz (BMELV) aufgrund eines Beschlusses des deutschen Bundestages. Die Projektträgerschaft erfolgt über die Bundesanstalt für Landwirt schaft und Ernährung (BLE) im Rahmen des Programms zur Innovationsförderung.

Literatur

Baker, NR, Ort DR, Harbinson J, Whitmarsh J (2004). Chloroplast to leaf. In: Photosynthetic adaptation- chloroplast to landscape. (William K. Smith, Thomas C. Vogelmann, Christa Critchley eds.) Ecological Studies 178, Springer Science, 89-106. Findlay N, Oliver KJ, Nii N und Coombe BG (1987). Solute accumulation by grape pericarp cells. IV. Perfusion of pericarp apoplast via the pedicel and evidence for xylem malfunction in ripening berries. J. Exp. Bot. 38, 668-679. Kotov AA and Kotova LM (2000). The contents of auxins and cytokinins in pea internodes as related to the growth of lateral buds. Journal of Plant Physiology 156 , 438-448. Mori K, Goto-Yamamoto N, Kitayama M and Hashizume K (2007). Loss of anthocayanins in red-wine grape under high temperature. Journal of Experimental Botany, 58, 1935-1945. Petrie PR, Trought MCT, Howell GS and Buchan GD (2003). The effect of leaf removal and canopy height on whole-vine gas exchange and fruit development of Vitis vinifera L. Sauvignon Blanc. Functional Plant Biology 30, 711-717. Rebucci B, Poni S, Intrieri C, Magnani E and Lakso AN (1997). Effects of manipulated grape berry transpi - ration on post-veraison sugar accumulation. Australian Journal of Grape and Wine Research 3, 57-65. Sack C, Lafontaine M, Hey M und Schultz HR (2010). Weinbau - Einfluss von Entblätterung bei Riesling. Der Deutsche Weinbau 10, 12-15. Schultz, HR (2003). Extension of a Farquhar model for grapevines (cvs. Riesling and Zinfandel) for light environ - ment, phenology and leaf age induced limitations of photosynthesis. Functional Plant Biology, 30, 673-687. Stoll M, Lafontaine M and Schultz HR (2010). Possibilities to reduce the velocity of berry maturation through various leaf are a to fruit ratio modifications in Vitis vinifera L.Riesling . Progrès Agri cole et Viticole 127, 68-7 1.

53 WINE TASTING III Moderation: Cornelius & Fabian Lange Riesling from Danube, Rhine, Nahe, and Moselle: the European Riesling Route Riesling von Donau, Rhein , Nahe und Mosel: Die europäische Riesling-Schiene

III 0

III 1

III 2

III 3

54 WINE TASTING III

III 4

III 5

III 6

III 7

III 8

III 9

55 Moderation: Cornelius and Fabian Lange

III 10

III 11

III 12

III 13

III 14

III 15

56 WINE TASTING III

III 16

III 17

III 18

III 19

III 20

III 21

57 Moderation: Cornelius and Fabian Lange

III 22

III 23

III 24

58 Monika Christmann

How to Optimize the Alcohol Content of Riesling Wine s?

Where is the optimu m?

Various international studies could proof increasing alcohol contents during the last years. Climate change, but also improved viticultural, microbiological and enological strategies are responsible for this phenomenon.

The influence of alcohol on the wine’s sensory character is controversially discussed. While alcohol can increase the mouth feel of a wine in appositive way at the same time alcohol can it mask desired aromas and the wines appear to be bitter.

So how can we achieve the optimum alcohol content of a win e?

A federal German research project under leadership of Hochschule Geisenheim investigated the problems arising from elevated alcohol levels.

There are various approaches to reduce the alcohol content of a wine in the cellar. Besides microbiological treatments there are several physical treatments available that can reduce the alcohol content precisely.

The glucose oxidase enzyme (GOX) transforms the must’s glucose into gluconic acid. Vintners could also choose yeasts with a lower alcohol production yield. Instead of the common yield of 47,5% and more, such yeasts produce considerably less alcohol whereas more side products are formed. During the selection of such yeasts the sensorial influence is besides the lower alcohol yield, a major selection criteria. Another approach is the Pasteur-effect. In aerobic conditions sugar contents below 5 g/ l are converted into water and CO 2 and not like usually into ethanol and CO 2. It is important to monitor the must addition carefully to keep the sugar content below 5 g/ l.

In the field of enology there are several physical processes legal to reduce the alcohol content of a wine. Already before fermentation, one can correct the potential alcohol content. The so-called Redu x® treatment uses the coupling of two membrane processes to reduce the sugar content in a must. A highly sugar-containing fraction is separated more or less selectively from the initial must. The potential negative influences of excessive alcohol contents on alcoholic and malolactic fermentation are reduced.

59 Monika Christmann

At wine stage, the alcohol level can be reduced by separation of the alcohol by membranes or distillation.

During the osmotic distillation, the wine passes a membrane contactor in counter flow to gas free water. The micro-porous, hydrophobic nature of that membrane enables just the passage of the volatile components, that afterwards dissolve in the strip water on the other side of the membrane. Numerous membrane contactors are already in use in the wine industry. The main application is gas management of wines but these units can also be used for partial alcohol reduction.

The osmotic distillation can also be coupled with a previous reverse osmosis treatment to reduce the alcohol content.

To reduce the alcohol content by distillation or rectification, a subset is dealcoholized sever - ely under vacuum and blended with the initial lot. Appropriate plants exist since more then 10 0 years. The distillation under vacuum reduces the thermal load of the wine.

A special type of rectification is the Spinning Cone Column (SCC). The principle to remove the alcohol is the same as the usual rectification under vacuum. The SCC caused a sensation in the wine industry, as it was said to be able to fragment the wine selectively in desired and undesired aroma components. This is not the cas e! The separation of aroma components just happens according to its volatility. The pre-run of that distillation contains several undesired and unpleasant aroma components. In a usual distillation the pre-run would be separated from the heart cut. Modern vacuum distillation plants for vacuum rectification are also equipped with aroma traps that catch very volatile components out of the distillate and recycle it to the alcohol free wine.

Besides economical questions, the wine industry is highly interested in sensory influences by the partial alcohol reduction. The first goal of our research was, how the alcohol reduction influences the sensory properties of a wine. Extensive tests showed that an alcohol reduction by 2% vol. could not be differed significantly from the initial wine. Also between the dif fe re nt treatments, no significant difference could found for an alcohol reduction by 2% vol. Here it is necessary to notice, that the several treatments have to conducted correct and gently.

If a wine was reduced by more than 2% vol., first sensory deviations get noticeable. Generally, the partial alcohol reduction slightly reduced the wine’s fruitiness, sweetness and bitterness. The perceived acidity was raised with lower alcohol contents. Globally the panelists could detect the treatment according to the perceived alcohol content. The attribute “body/fullness” was changed the most with the treated Rieslings.

Wine with reduced alcohol contents clearly show a lower perception of bod y/ fullness. Several enological treatments are known that can raise the body and fullness of a wine. The “sur-lie” storage, malolactic fermentation and residual sugar can help to balance that reduction.

60 How to optimize the alcohol content of Riesling wines?

2011 Riesling 14, 6%vol.

Fig. 1 Influence of the alcohol reduction on selected wine attributes (n=14+21 ␣=5%)

A further topic of our sensory investigation was the Sweet Spot Theory. This theory implies that every wine has an optimum alcohol content that suits it the best. In each of the tastings with wines of the varieties Müller-Thurgau, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Regent and Pinot Noir no clear pre - ference was found for a certain alcohol content. The panelists could not find a commonly pre - ferred alcohol spot within a range of 3%vol. difference of the samples. Especially the tastings with the Riesling showed a wide spread in preference, as the example in figure 2 clearly shows. So the various panelists had different opinions which alcohol content works best for Riesling wines. These results proof why there are so many successfully styles of Riesling worldwide.

2012 Riesling

Fig. 2 Deviation of the panelist’s preference in increasing, decreasing and randomized order ( n=3 x14)

Prof. Dr. Monika Christmann Head of Department for Oenology and Wine Technology and Head of the Winery, Geisenheim University

61 Monika Christmann

Wie optimier t man den Alkoholgehalt von Rieslingweine n?

Wo liegt das Optimu m?

Zahlreiche Studien belegen weltweit steigende Alkoholgehalte in den letzten Jahren. Neben dem Klimawandel ist auch die Optimierung von weinbaulichen, mikrobiologischen sowie kellerwirtschaftlichen Praktiken dafür verantwortlich.

Der sensorische Einfluss von Alkohol im Wein ist sicherlich kontrovers zu sehen. Zum einen verleiht der Alkohol dem Wein Körper und verdeckt ungewünschte Aromen, aber andererseits maskieren überhöhte Alkoholgehalte typische Aromen und lassen die Weine brandig wirken.

Wie lässt sich nun der Alkoholgehalt von Wein optimieren?

Ein entsprechendes deutschlandweites Verbundvorhaben unter der Leitung der Hochschule Geisenheim hat sich in den vergangenen Jahren mit der Vermeidung von überhöhten Alkohol - gehalten beim Wein befasst.

Um den Alkoholgehalt beim Wein zu verringern, sind verschiedene Ansätze im Keller denkbar. Neben mikrobiologischen Praktiken sind eine Reihe von Anlagen am Markt, die durch physika - lische Verfahren den Alkoholgehalt gezielt reduzieren können.

Durch die Zugabe des Enzyms Glucoseoxidase (GOX) wird die vorhandene Glucose in Glucon - säure umgewandelt. Ebenfalls ist es möglich auf Hefen zurückzugreifen, die eine geringere Alkoholausbeute anstatt der üblichen ca .47,5% und mehr haben. Zwar bilden diese Hefen deutlich weniger Alkohol , aber andere Gärungsnebenprodukte können vermehrt entstehen. Bei der Selektion solcher Hefen steht neben der geringeren Alkoholausbeute die sensorische Eignung an erster Stelle. Um reduzierte Alkoholgehalte zu erzielen , ist es auch möglich, einen Teil des Zuckers durch den sog. Pasteur-Effekt gezielt zu veratmen. In Gegenwart von Sauer - stoff werden Zuckergehalte von unter 5 g/ l von der Hefe in CO 2 und Wasser veratmet und nicht wie üblich in Alkohol umgewandelt. Dabei ist die Mostzufuhr so zu steuern, dass in der hefe - haltigen Suspension der Zuckergehalt unter 5 g/ l bleibt.

Aus kellerwirtschaftlicher Sicht sind verschiedene physikalische Verfahren zugelassen, um den Alkoholgehalt zu reduzieren. Bereits vor der Gärung ist es möglich , den späteren Alkoholgehalt zu korrigieren. Das im Markt bereits vorhandene Redux ® Verfahren ermöglicht es, durch die

62 Wie optimiert man den Alkoholgehalt von Rieslingweine n?

Kopplung von zwei Filtrationsschritten den Zuckergehalt im Most gezielt zu reduzieren. Dem vorgeklärte Most wird hierbei mehr oder weniger selektiv eine stark zuckerhaltige Fraktion abgetrennt. Dadurch sind mögliche negative Einflüsse von exzessiven Alkoholgehalten auf die Gärung und einen evtl. späteren biologischen Säureabbau reduziert.

Im Weinstadium wird der Alkoholgehalt verringert indem man den Alkohol durch Membran - verfahren oder Destillation teilweise abtrennt.

Bei der osmotischen Destillation wird der Wein im Gegenstrom zu entgastem Wasser in einen Membrankontaktor geleitet. Die mikroporöse, hydrophobe Eigenschaft der Membran ermöglicht nur einen Übergang der flüchtigen Stoffe , die anschließend im Stripwasser in Lösung gehen. Zahlreiche Membrankontaktoren sind bereits in der Branche vorrangig zum Gasmanagement zu finden, die aber auch zur teilweisen Alkoholreduzierung genutzt werden können .

Es ist auch denkbar , durch die Kombination von Umkehrosmose und anschließender osmo- tischer Destillation den Alkoholgehalt zu reduzieren.

Soll dem Wein durch Destillatio n/ Rektifikation teilweise der Alkohol entzogen werden, so wird eine Teilmenge unter Vakuum destilliert. Entsprechende Anlagen sind bereits seit über 100 Jahren bekannt. Durch die Destillation unter Vakuum wird die thermische Belastung reduziert.

Eine Sonderform der Rektifikation stellt die Spinning Cone Column (SCC), oder auch Schleuder - kegelkolonne genannt , dar. Das Prinzip der Alkoholabtrennung ist das Gleiche wie bei der Rektifikation unter Vakuum. Aufsehen erregte die SCC in der Weinbranche , weil man ihr nachsagte, sie könne Weine gezielt in gewünschte Aromakomponenten zerlegen. Dies ent - spricht nicht der Realität. Die Abtrennung durch die Spinning Cone erfolgt lediglich nach Flüchtigkeit. Im Vorlauf der Destillation finden sich eine Reihe von unerwünschten Aroma - stoffen, warum man bei einer üblichen Destillation auch den Vorlauf vom Hauptlauf abtrennt. Moderne Anlagen zur Vakuumrektifikation haben ebenfalls Einrichtungen , um die besonders flüchtigen Komponenten aus dem Destillat zu entfernen und dem alkoholfreien Wein wieder zuzuführen.

Neben wirtschaftlichen Fragen steht für die Weinbranche natürlich auch der sensorische Einfluss der teilweisen Alkoholreduzierung im Vordergrund. Erster Gegenstand der Unter - suchungen war es, wie sich eine Alkoholreduzierung auf die Sensorik auswirken kann. In ausgiebigen Verkostungen konnt e bei einer Alkoholreduzierung um 2%vol. kein signifikanter Unter schied zum Ausgangswein festgestellt werden. Auch wurden die verschiedenen Verfahren zur Alkoholreduzierung um 2% vol. gegeneinander verglichen. Hier zeigte sich keine signifikante Abweichung der verschiedenen Verfahren zueinander. Allerdings ist dabei vorauszusetzen, dass die jeweiligen Verfahren stets sachgemäß und produktschonend an- gewendet werden.

63 Monika Christmann

Wurde den Weinen mehr als 2%vol. entzogen, so machten sich erste Veränderungen bemerk - bar. Generell wurde ersichtlich, dass durch die teilweise Alkoholreduzierung die Fruchtigkeit, Süße und Bitterkeit leicht reduziert wurden die Säurewahrnehmung gesteigert wurde. Global konnten die Verkoster den Eingriff der Alkoholreduzierung klar am Alkoholgehalt festmachen. Am deutlichsten wurde das Attribut Körper bzw. Fülle beim Riesling verändert.

2011er Riesling 14, 6%vol.

Abb. 1 Einfluss der Alkoholreduzierung auf ausgesuchte Weinattribute (n=14+21 ␣=5%)

Weine mit deutlich weniger Alkohol verfügen also über einen geringeren Körper. In der Weinbereitung sind jedoch eine Reihe von Praktiken bekannt, die dem Wein mehr Körper ver - leihen können. Solche Maßnahmen können sein: „Sur lie“ Ausbau, biologischer Säureabbau oder das Belassen von Restsüße.

Ein weiterer wichtiger Punkt der sensorischen Untersuchungen war es, die „Sweet-Spot- Theorie“ zu überprüfen. Diese Theorie besagt, dass jeder Wein einen spezifischen Alkoholgehalt hat, der am Besten zu ihm passt. In den jeweiligen Verkostungen mit den Rebsorten Müller- Thurgau, Weißburgunder, Riesling, Regent und Spätburgunder zeigte sich, wenn die jeweiligen Proben in einem Korridor mit 3 % vol. Alkoholunterschied verteilt wurden, dass keine klare Präferenz für einen bestimmten Alkoholgehalt gefunden werden konnte. Gerade bei der Rebsorte Riesling wich die Präferenz der jeweiligen Prüfer sehr stark voneinander ab, wie das Bespiel in Abbildung 2 zeigt. Folglich haben die Verkoster gerade beim Riesling eine unter - schiedliche Vorstellung, welcher Alkoholgehalt präferiert wird. Diese Ergebnisse bestätigen die zahlreichen Stilarten des Rieslings weltweit.

64 Wie optimiert man den Alkoholgehalt von Rieslingweine n?

2012er Riesling

Abb. 2 Verteilung der Prüfer - präferenz in aufsteigender, absteigender und randomisierter Reihenfolge (n=3 x14)

65 WINE TASTING IV Moderation: Caro Maurer MW Riesling and Aging Potential Riesling und Reifepotential

IV 1

IV 2

IV 3

IV 4

IV 5

66 WINE TASTING IV

IV 6

IV 7

IV 8

IV 9

IV 10

IV 11

67 Moderation: Caro Maurer MW

IV 12

III 13

III 14

III 15

III 16

III 17

68 WINE TASTING IV

IV 18

III 19

III 20

III 21

III 22

III 23

69 Dirk Würtz

Riesling an d the Digital World of Wine

Few words better capture the spirit of the last ten years than 'revolution.' The last five years in particular have seen an incredible amount of lasting changes to the interne t! And while some individuals are still preoccupied with discovering the so-called 'Web 2.0' – little more than cave drawings by current technological standards – the rest of us have long since arrived in the mobile age. Things have moved much faster than I ever would have expected. And while the developments are far from complete, they have of course affected the wine world as well. Wine has indeed 'gone digital,' despite, or rather in spite of, a contingent reluctant to acknow - ledge this changing of the guard.

Even in this day and age, some still try to conduct their business as it has always been done – with more than a hint of secrecy and back room deals. Intense territorial battles are waged regularly for the authority to proclaim and refute certai n 'truths .' And yet, despite this, a fierce bedrock of democracy has taken hold. Gone are the days when a select few held the keys to the castle, disseminating the information when, how and to whom they chose. The buzz word is now 'user generated content .' It all started in small internet forums that drew together a virtual gathering of wine geeks and zealots, discussing and debating all things wine into the wee hours. And this all, mind you, far away from the limelight. In general, the members of these forums were roundly belittled by those outside the virtual gates – when they were noticed by producers at all. This is on the one hand understandable. For those unfamiliar with the forum practices, the raw and sometimes insulting tone must have seemed somewhat bewildering. That this was being done in the name of the holiest and loveliest of all beverages, wine, was, at its best, difficult to imagine. And the memories of those stormy forums continue to live on in the minds of many, especially the producers. While wine forums do continue to exist today, they are only a small piece of a larger digital wine whole. And within Germany, this small piece is truly minuscule. Active participation in such forums requires a considerable allocation of the very resource that we, in the modern mobile world, have perhaps the least of: time. Blogs have filled part of the need for these forums. The real heartbeat, however, is best heard within the hallowed virtual halls of the social networks, in particular Facebook.

Facebook is the world’s largest platform for wine. Any conceivable wine-related question can be both asked and answered on the social network in the span of a few seconds. Dozens of 'wine groups' are dedicated to every possible theme, from style to region. The group I founded, for example, called "Hauptsache Wein" – roughly translated as 'Everything Wine" – has at last count over 2000 members and thousands of hits daily. Individual wines are praised, discussed,

70 Riesling and the Digital World of Wine criticized and sometimes simply photographed. The discussion touches on everything from viticulture to the future of wine journalism. In the end, it’s hard to imagine any wine-related theme that hasn't been already touched upon. And of course, word spreads quickl y! There is nothing else like it in the world. Those who chose not to use it have no one to blame but them - selves. To me, the only possible reason not to be present on Facebook is because your family name ends in "Cheval Blanc" or something equally notable. That, of course, represents a whole other set of circumstances. Then again, perhaps in a few years Facebook itself shall cease to exist. Then something – with a different name, and most likely larger, and perhaps even faster – will replace it. But the purpose will remain the same. We have passed the point of no return. The social connection is not a passing fad, destined to vanish into oblivion as quickly as it appeared. It is here to stay. Those who believe otherwise are living in an alternate universe. It can represent, for a select few, an interesting and conscious choice to not take part in this social wine world. But then of course we are back to the family of Cheval Blanc, and even then it is likely only a matter of time. It makes no sense not to be represented. The point isn’t to make wild postings, or 'Like' everything in sight. Rather, it is crucial to provide both interesting content and a regular presence, even if that presence merely involves monitoring the goings- on. But let’s put that aside for the moment.

Participation in the social network naturally involves more than a simple rehashing of the contents of one's homepage. Which is not to say that many people don't take that approach – just that it is far from optimal. In those cases, a static homepage will more than suffice. On the other hand, the goal should not be simply to collect as many fans and followers as possible. The old chestnut about "location, location, location" has been replaced by "Content is King." This golden rule applies more than ever when it comes to the internet. Wine is inherently an emotional product, but not a necessity for life. To quench my thirst, I drink water; if I’m loo - king for a quick buzz, any plonk will do. Wine is history, culture, and emotion. And these aspects are the ones that can be communicated, quickly and effectively, on the social networks. A wine - maker can now reach his customers and supporters seamlessly and directly. There's a venue to convey what he finds important in an unbelievably transparent way. Gone are the days of tireless recruitment. The interested fans are already there. They have come to him. I know of no other platform that can come close to that level of effectiveness and trust.

To be clear, the system only works when one is both straight-forward and honest. Pretending to be something you're not, or telling tales of things you haven't done, is a dangerous game, reserved for the shadows of the more seedy and dubious internet dating portals. For one, the wine scene is far too small. More and more frequently, this kind of misbehavior is quickly discovered and punished. In the modern world, there is little that goes unsaid, and even less that goes unseen.

For many, it is precisely this pressure for honesty and authenticity that can be problematic. They seem to live in fear that the mythos around wine will be punctured and that the world of wine will ultimately become transparent. Worst of all, people will be able to figure out what's true

71 Dirk Würtz and what's codswallop. Yes indeed, the times are hard. In today's world, I'd be crazy to claim that I harvest entirely by hand – while a machine harvester drives through the vineyards behind me. The risk is too great that someone will photograph that harvester and immediately upload it to Facebook. On the other hand, it is exactly this credibility and truthfulness that German wine needs. True stories need to be told, establishing the emotional connection linked to a flawless, artisanal product. For German wine, for Riesling, this is an almost historic chance to raise the overall public and commercial profile. Gone are the divides between the digital and the 'real' world. It's crucial that we accept this. Those who continue to insist on separating the two realms haven't grasped what's at stake here. Always be Yourself.

It goes without saying that there are risks associated with using these social media tools and the openness tied to them. Thus emerges the necessity for 'monitoring.' You need to know at all times what is being posted about you and your product – positive and negative. Keep your revolver cocked and loaded and your trigger finger at the ready. One moment of poor judgment, one negligent or unsubstantiated slip-up and a mere trifle can gather into an epic 'shitstorm.' These dust-ups often die out quickly, but others can seem to gain a life of their own. Whether short or long-lived, they almost always end up emotional, biased, controversial and above all else hurtful. With more than a few of these virtual brawls under my own belt, those who have experienced one for themselves know of what I speak. This alone attests to the necessity for vigilant monitoring. A quick draw is the first – many might say the only – rule of engagement, but it all starts by thinking through carefully all actions undertaken on the inter - net. An inability to interact appropriately in social situations will inevitably create one’s own personal Waterloo within the virtual existence. Good luck trying to delete your miscues after - wards; the internet never forgets. The ability to stay truthful and straight-forward, and to cultivate a solid network, makes the entire monitoring process much easier. Others may even take up your caus e ...

To reiterate, I am quite serious when I say that the internet and the social networks are provi - ding an unprecedented chance for German Riesling. The wine industry as we know it is under - going a series of permanent changes. The wine business has to date been dominated by the producers and – at various times – a few key opinion-makers. Going forward the consumer will rule the market. The consumer’s experience with a product and the emotions that encounter triggers will be decisive. Transported, inescapably, by the internet and the social channels an d/ or networks. A Riesling is bought, tasted and the first impressions and initial evaluations are communicated immediately on Facebook (or wherever), without any catalytic detour. This isn't about long contemplation, degustation or even comparison – things move along speedily and with unstinting candor. Within the circle of credibility – and yes, something like this does exist on the internet – this 'evaluation' is perceived as incentive to either make a purchase or avoid one. The readers will certainly consider the assessments to be sound. More credible than anything else, which translates into more influential than anything else. Robert Parker is encountering serious competitio n … not from other wine critics, but rather from the very people he is trying to reach: the consumer s ... We can and must take advantage of this funda -

72 Riesling and the Digital World of Wine mental change. Riesling must be present on all channels. It must be established as THE German variety, and anchored as such for all eternity on the Net. Anyone who googles the term “wines from Germany“ MUST absolutely have the word ”Riesling“ shown as the top hit. This isn’t a question of Search Engine Optimization (SEO), but rather content.

We have to reach the consumers more aggressively than ever before, grab them there where they are, and that's on the Net and the social networks. If you have something to say about Rieslings, then say i t! Say it agai n! Twitter it, Facebook it, Instagram it, Whatsapp it, Googleplus it. The motto should be "more is better." Thanks to the internet we're in a position to convey our concerns, our messages and our favorite variety to the world. Quickly and affordably. There’s no other way to achieve this great an impact with so little overhead. You don’t need budgets or expensive campaigns. A bit of contemplation, a dash of social competency and ten minutes a day are enough.

So be sure to keep the consumer in mind. That sounds obvious. But I have sadly observed that it is in fact no longer the norm. Too many people seem to view themselves as existing in some kind of parallel world where the consumer – the custome r! – is little more than a disruption. There was a time when it was easier to forget about the customer. Those times are now gone. Thanks to the internet!

What this means is a completely new relationship between you and your customers. In the past, if a wine didn't taste good to someone, they didn't buy it the next time. Today those impressions are posted straight to Facebook: “I visited winemaker xyz, the wines stink. Not to mention much too expensive and the people were unfriendly to boot.“ That would be a 'worst- case' scenario. The ideal scenario would run very differently. The customer is enthusiastic, shares his excitement with his friends and followers, a portion of whom in turn forward it on to their own contacts, and in a flash thousands of people hear how awesome you and your Riesling ar e! The 'power' is with the consumer and people with deep networks!

And in fact we might say the networks in general are more important now than ever. The bonds that once took any number of phone calls and time-intensive trips to establish are formed today quickly and easily via digital channels. Affinities and friendships are established, projects slide from the digital into the analog world. And all of that without ever having actually laid eyes on one another. Authenticity and trust play a major role here. A crucial one, even. These networks don't just produce projects, they also produce opinions. New trends are established, and others put to rest. The tedious 'target audience analysis' becomes superfluous, since the target audience is clearly defined: EVERYBOD Y! In our case, everybody who drinks wine. From 18 to 88 years of ag e!! Factors from income to education no longer matter. The internet and the social networks offer barrier-free access. That's the point of the entire affair. It's the most significant and important difference from all of the wine publications in our world. They are the very definition of 'special interest,' and rely on a defined target audience to buy those issues. The target audience for Facebook, by contrast, is very simple: it's everybod y! That continues

73 Dirk Würtz to make it much tougher for wine journalism in particular. The internet is certainly not the sole reason for the dramatic drop in circulations of the German language wine publications. But naturally it's one of the them. The classic sovereign topics for print magazines were always 'Industry News' and 'Wine Tips.' The Net has long since learned to do it better. Not least because most of the tips that can be found in print originated on the Net. Major investigative journalism pieces are somewhat less likely to appear on the Net, and not at all on Facebook. In this case the classic wine blogs play a more major role than the social networks. That aside, this kind of reporting isn't what the classic internet user might be expecting. The average page visit time for these stories tends to be short, with 2,500 characters more time than the readers are willing to budget. Although naturally there are also readers who are in fact interested, coming from the 'special interest' group. Moving images are of growing importance in this con - text. The future, I am solidly convinced, belongs to moving images. But not on TV. On the Net. Linear TV programs are going the way of the dinosaurs, I give them no more than ten years. That may sound pessimistic, I know, but the head of the TV networks say the same things if you catch them in a candid moment. And most print media outlets were too late to read the writing on the wall. There are exceptions, of course. In German, “falstaf f” does a good job, as does “Vinum,” at least at a content level. The most ambitious of the magazines from an optical and thematic standpoint, “FINE,” holds a special position comparable perhaps only with “VOGUE.” They are focused on excellence and nothing les s! There'll always be a market for that – including on paper. That said, I’m fairly certain that there's a great deal of transforma - tions ahead in this industry here in Germany. Classic wine journalism will undergo permanent changes. It will adapt its habits to the social networks, and work increasingly with the tools of emotion. And it’ll have to, or else it won’t survive. But one thing must absolutely be clarified again and again in this context. The network, the digital world, is also THE chance for all wine journalists. Profound knowledge is in demand. Style is decisive, wagging fingers is passé. A tenuous grasp on the details will be punished, while respectful interactions as equals is a core requirement. The internet wine geeks who were once dismissed as those 'nutjobs with their blogs' have grown voices that increasingly must be heeded. Many of them have more readers each month than issues are sold for all of the print media in an entire quarter. And the publi- shing houses and publishers need to be reminded once again in no uncertain terms: quality doesn’t come cheap. Doling out assignments each time to the lowest bidder is not a good long-term strategy.

It doesn’t matter who’s doing the writing or the platform they’re using, in the end we all share the same goal. We want to showcase the most intriguing and heavenly grape variety in the world – our Riesling. The internet with all of its varying angles offers a perfect international platform to shine the spotlight on Riesling. We just need to tackle it togethe r!

Dirk Würtz Estate Manager at the VDP-Weingut Balthasar Ress and Wine Blogger

74 Dirk Würtz

Riesling und die digitale Weinwelt

„Revolution“ ist das Wort, das am besten beschreibt, was in den vergangenen knapp zehn Jahren passiert ist. Insbesondere die letzten fünf Jahre haben das Internet nachhaltig ver- änder t! Während einige immer noch damit beschäftigt sind, dass sogenannte „web 2.0“ zu entdecken, und überhaupt nicht merken, dass dies mit „Höhlenmalerei“ gleichzusetzen ist, sind wir längst im mobilen Zeitalter angekommen. Das alles ging viel schneller, als ich selbst einmal dachte. Die Entwicklung ist noch lange nicht am Ende und natürlich betreffen alle diese Entwicklungen auch die Weinwelt. Wein ist digital geworden, ob es dem ein oder anderen passt oder nicht.

Wein ist, man mag es kaum glauben, auch im 21. Jahrhundert immer noch von einem Hauch geheimbündlerischer Logenkrämerei umgeben. Deutungshoheiten werden definiert und hart um kämpft. Dabei hat sich alles längst demokratisiert. Vorbei sind die Zeiten, in denen einige wenige über Wein sprachen oder ihn gar bewerteten. „User generated content“ ist DAS Stich - wort. Alles ging los in kleinen Internetforen, in denen sich wahrhaftige Weinfreaks zusammen - fanden und nächtelang über Weine diskutierten, stritten und sich nicht selten annähernd reli - giös ereiferten. Fernab einer größeren Öffentlichkeit, versteht sich. In der Regel wurden sämt - liche Teilnehmer dieser Foren belächelt – wenn sie denn von der Produzentenseite überhaupt wahrgenommen wurden. Einerseits war das verständlich. Es muss für einen Forenfremden schon mehr als verwunderlich gewesen sein, welch rauer und teilweise beleidigender Ton da herrschte. Es war mitunter kaum vorstellbar, dass es um das göttlichste und schönste aller Getränke – den Wein – gehen sollte. Andererseits existiert noch in vielen Köpfen, gerade der Produzenten, dieses Bild und dieser Eindruck aus den stürmischen Forenzeiten. Heute sind Weinforen zwar noch existent, aber eben nur noch als ein Teil der gesamten digitalen Weinwelt. In Deutschland ist es ein verschwindend kleiner Teil. Die Teilnahme an einem Forum erfordert Zeit, also das, was im mobilen Zeitalter kaum noch einer hat. Blogs haben zu einem Teil die Foren ersetzt, die Musik hingegen spielt in den sozialen Netzwerken – allen voran Facebook.

Facebook ist die größte Weinplattform der Welt. Wer eine Frage zum Thema Wein hat, bekommt diese via Facebook in der Regel sekundenschnell beantwortet. Es gibt Dutzende von „Weingruppen“ zu beinahe jedem Thema, jeder Weinart oder Region. Alleine die von mir ins Leben gerufene Gruppe „Hauptsache Wein“ marschiert stark auf die 2.000 Mitglieder zu und hat täglich Tausende von Zugriffen. Einzelne Weine werden diskutiert, gelobt, kritisiert oder einfach nur fotografiert. Weinbauliche Themen werden angesprochen, über die Zukunft des Weinjournalismus wird diskutiert – am Ende gibt es eigentlich kein Thema in Sachen Wein, über

75 Dirk Würtz das nicht geredet wird. Und natürlich verbreiten sich sämtliche Nachrichten im Eiltempo! Es gibt weltweit nichts Vergleichbares. Wer Facebook nicht nutzt, dem ist eigentlich nicht zu helfen. Es gibt nur ein zulässiges Argument, nicht präsent zu sein, und das wäre, wenn man mit Familiennamen „Cheval Blanc“ heißt – oder Ähnliches. Natürlich kann sich das alles ändern. Vielleicht gibt es in einigen Jahren Facebook nicht mehr. Dann wird es aber etwas andere geben, mit einem anderen Namen, wahrscheinlich noch größer und noch schneller. Zurück geht es in jedem Fall nicht. Das soziale Netzwerk ist keine Modeerscheinung, die irgendwann einmal wieder genau so schnell verschwindet, wie sie aufgetaucht ist. Es ist Allta g! Wer etwas anderes glaubt oder gar behauptet, lebt in einer Parallelwelt. Es kann, für einige wenige, ein unter Umständen spannendes Alleinstellungsmerkmal sein, NICHT in den einschlägigen Netzwerken vertreten zu sein. Aber da sind wir wieder bei „Cheval Blan c“, und auch das ist ganz sicher nur noch eine Frage der Zeit. Es macht eigentlich auch keinen Sinn , nicht vertreten zu sein. Es geht dabei gar nicht darum, wild zu posten oder zu liken oder was auch immer zu tun. Es geht um Inhalte und natürlich wird dabei auch das Monitoring immer wichtiger. Aber dazu später mehr. Selbstverständlich ist die Teilnahme an der sozialen Welt mehr, als das einfache Wiederholen statischer Inhalte der eigenen Homepage. Das kann man machen, das machen viele, aber das ist nicht der Sinn des Ganzen. Dann reicht eben auch die statische Homepage. Ebenso geht es nicht darum, möglichst viele Fans und Follower zu generieren. Es geht um Inhalte. „Content is King“. Diese goldene Regel gilt mehr denn je im Netz. Wein ist ein durch und durch emotio- nales und eigentlich nicht notwendiges Produkt. Wenn ich Durst habe, trinke ich Wasser, und wenn ich schnelle Wirkung haben will, genügt ein billiger Fusel. Wein ist Kultur, Geschichte und Emotion. Und alle diese Dinge können in einfachster und schnellster Weise über die sozialen Netzwerke kommuniziert werden. Der Produzent kann in einen völlig neuen Kontakt zu seinen Kunden und Sympathisanten treten. Er kann in einer unglaublich transparenten Art und Weise alles das, was ihm wichtig erscheint, transportieren. Das Publikum dafür kommt freiwillig zu ihm. Es muss nicht mühevoll rekrutiert werden, es ist einfach da. Gibt es etwas Vergleichbare s? Ich glaube nich t!

Es versteht sich von selbst, dass das Ganze nur dann etwas bringt, wenn man authentisch ist. Wenn man nicht vorgibt, jemand zu sein, der man nicht ist, oder Dinge zu tun, die man eigent - lich nicht tut. Das funktioniert, wenn überhaupt, nur noch auf zwielichtigen Datingportalen. Derartige Verhaltensweisen werden schnell abgestraft, die Zeiten, in denen so etwas nicht auffällt, sind lange vorbei. Im Übrigen ist die Weinszene viel zu klei n…

Für viele ist gerade dieser Zwang zur Ehrlichkeit und Authentizität das eigentliche Problem an der ganzen Sache. Es könnte ja am Mythos gekratzt werden, Wein könnte ja am Ende transpa - rent werden und, ganz schlimm, die Leute merken sich tatsächlich, was man so von sich gib t ... Ja, die Zeiten sind hart. Heute kann ich keinem mehr ungestraft erzählen, ich würde alle Trauben von Hand ernten, während im Hintergrund die Maschine durch den Weinberg fährt. Viel zu groß ist die Gefahr, dass das einer fotografiert und das entlarvende Foto auf Facebook stell t… Aber sind wir einmal ehrlich, es ist genau diese Authentizität, die insbesondere der deutsche Wein braucht. Echte Geschichten müssen erzählt und eine emotionale Bindung zu

76 Riesling und die digitale Weinwelt einem handwerklich einwandfrei hergestellten Produkt aufgebaut werden. Für den deutschen Wein, für den Riesling, ist das beinahe eine historische Chance, im breiten Bewusstsein – und damit auch im Markt – anzukommen. Es gibt übrigens keine Trennung zwischen der digitalen und der „realen“ Welt. Das sollte jedem klar sein. Wer da etwas meint trennen zu müssen, hat nicht verstanden, um was es eigentlich geht. Seien Sie immer Sie selbst

Es versteht sich von selbst, dass die Art der Kommunikation – das Nutzen der sozialen Netzwerke und die damit verbundene Offenheit – auch einige Gefahren mit sich bringen. Aus diesem Grund ist das „Monitoring“ eine der Hauptaufgaben. Sie sollten zu jeder Zeit wissen, was über Sie und Ihre Produkte geschrieben, gepostet und im schlimmsten Fall geschimpft wird. Der Colt sitzt locker und der Zeigefinger zuckt immer nervöser am Abzug. Eine Unachtsamkeit, eine falsche und unbedachte Äußerung – und aus einer Lappalie wird unter Umständen ein tsunamigleicher „shitstorm“. Manches verpufft schneller, als es kam, anderes kann durchaus nachhaltig sein. Ungerecht, emotional, bis hin zu hochgradig polemisch und verletzend sind solche „shitstorms“ beinahe immer. Wer so etwas schon einmal erlebt hat, ich habe mehrere hin - ter mich gebracht, weiß, wovon ich rede. Aus diesem Grund führt am konsequenten Monitoring auch kein Weg vorbei. Rechtzeitiges Reagieren ist oberste Pflicht, überlegtes Handeln ist die Grund voraus setzung für jegliches Tun im Netz. Wer sozial inkompetent ist, erlebt in den sozialen Netz werken sein persönliches Waterloo. Späteres Löschen bringt übrigens gar nichts – das Internet vergisst nichts. Wenn Sie es geschafft haben, authentisch zu bleiben, und Ihr Netz - werk funktioniert, wird auch das Monitoring einfacher. Das übernehmen dann andere für Sie…

Ich meine das übrigens ernst, wenn ich sage, dass das Internet und die sozialen Netzwerke eine historische Chance für den deutschen Riesling sind. Die Weinwirtschaft ändert sich nachhaltig. Bisher war die Weinwirtschaft von den Produzenten und – hin und wieder – einigen wenigen Meinungsmachern dominiert. Künftig beherrscht der Konsument den Markt. Die Erfahrung, die ein Verbraucher mit einem Produkt macht , und das dadurch ausgelöste emotionale Moment werden den Markt dominieren. Transportiert, wie sollte es anders sein, durch das Internet und die sozialen Kanäle, respektive Netzwerke. Ein Riesling wird gekauft, probiert und der erste Eindruck und die erste Einschätzung werden sofort und ohne katalysatorische Umwege auf Facebook (oder wo auch immer) kommuniziert. Es wird nicht lange nachgedacht, verkostet oder gar abgewogen – es geht schnell und schonungslos. Im vertrauten Umfeld – ja, so etwas gibt es auch im Internet – wird dieser „Bewertung“ geglaubt und sie wird entweder als Kaufanreiz wahrgenommen oder, im schlimmsten Fall, als Warnung. In jedem Fall aber werden diese Empfehlungen als glaubwürdig eingestuft werden. Glaubwürdiger als alles andere und damit auch einflussreicher als alles andere. Robert Parker bekommt ernsthafte Konkurrenz. Allerdings nicht von anderen Weinkritikern, sondern von denen, die er eigentlich erreichen will – den Konsumenten… Diese maßgebliche Änderung können und müssen wir uns zunutze machen. Riesling muss auf allen Kanälen präsent sein. Er muss als DIE deutsche Rebsorte betoniert und auf alle Ewigkeit im Netz verankert sein. Wer den Begrif f „Wein aus Deutschland“ googelt MUSS zwingend als erstes Suchergebnis das Wort „Riesling“ angezeigt bekommen. Dabei geht es nicht um Suchmaschinenoptimierung (SEO), sondern um content.

77 Dirk Würtz

Wir müssen also stärker denn je die Konsumenten erreichen, sie da abholen, wo sie sind, und das ist nun einmal im Internet und in den sozialen Netzwerken. Wenn Sie etwas zum Thema Riesling zu sagen haben, sagen Sie e s! Wiederholen Sie e s! Twittern, facebooken, instagramen, whatsappen, googleplusen Sie es. „Viel hilft viel“, ist hier die Devise. Mit Hilfe des Netzes sind wir in der Lage, unser Anliegen, unsere Botschaften und unsere Lieblingsrebsorte in die Welt zu tragen. Schnell und kostengünstig. Nirgendwo kann man mit so wenig Aufwand eine so große Wirkung erzielen. Es bedarf keinerlei Budgets und aufwendiger Kampagnen. Etwas nachdenken, soziale Kompetenz und zehn Minuten Zeit am Tag genügen.

Behalten Sie den Konsumenten also im Blick. Das klingt normal. Leider beobachte ich immer öfter, dass dies nicht mehr normal ist. Zunehmend begeben sich einige in eine Art Parallelwelt, in der der Konsument, der Kunde , nur stört. Früher konnte man den Kunden leichter aus dem Weg gehen. Heute geht das nicht mehr. Dem Internet sei Dan k!

Dadurch entsteht zwischen Ihnen und Ihren Kunden eine völlig neue Beziehung. Wenn einem früher der Wein nicht geschmeckt hat, hat man einfach nicht mehr gekauft. Heute steht das zuerst auf Facebook: „Ich war bei Winzer xyz , der Wein taugt nichts. Und viel zu teuer ist er auch und die Leute waren total unfreundlich“. Das wäre das „worst case“-Szenario. Im Idealfall läuft das aber anders. Der Kunde ist begeistert, teilt die Begeisterung seinen Freunden und Followern mit, ein Teil davon teilt das wiederum und im Handumdrehen haben Tausende von Menschen mitbekommen, wie toll Sie und Ihr Riesling sin d! Die „Macht“ ist beim Konsument und bei den gut vernetzten Mensche n!

Überhaupt werden Netzwerke immer wichtiger. Was früher mühsam per Telefon und zeitauf - wendiger Reisen aufgebaut werden musste, findet sich heute ganz einfach und schnell digital zusammen. Sympathien und Freundschaften entstehen, Projekte schwappen aus der digitalen in die analoge Welt. Und das alles manchmal, ohne sich auch nur einmal persönlich gesehen zu haben. Auch hier spielen Authentizität und Vertrauen eine große Rolle. Eine wesentliche sogar. In diesen Netzwerken entstehen nicht nur Projekte, es entstehen auch Meinungen. Neue Trends werden gemacht, andere beerdigt. Mühsame Zielgruppenanalysen entfallen, die Zielgruppe ist klar definiert: ALL E! In unserem Fall alle, die Wein trinken. Von 18 bis 88 Jahre n!!! Das Einkommen spielt keine Rolle, ebenso wenig die Bildung und was sonst auch immer. Das Internet und die sozialen Netzwerke haben einen barrierefreien Zugang. Das ist der Sinn des Ganzen. Das ist der deutlichste und wichtigste Unterschied zu sämtlichen Weinpublikationen dieser Welt. Die sind „special interest“ und brauchen zwingend eine definierte Zielgruppe, die das Heft auch kauft. Die Zielgruppe von Facebook hingegen ist einfach: es sind all e! Das macht es insbesondere für den Weinjournalismus immer schwerer. Das Internet ist sicher nicht der alleinige Grund für den dramatischen Rückgang der Auflagenzahlen der deutsch- sprachigen Weinpublikationen. Aber natürlich ist er einer der Gründe. Die klassischen früheren Print-Hoheitsgebiete „Neuigkeiten“ und „Weintipps“ sind im Netz längst besetzt. Zumal die meisten Tipps, die heutzutage im Print stehen, aus dem Netz kommen. Große Reportagen sind eher weniger im Netz zu finden, auf Facebook natürlich gar nicht. Hier spielen die klassischen

78 Riesling und die digitale Weinwelt

Weinblogs eine größere Rolle als die sozialen Netzwerke. Allerdings sind solche Reportagen nicht das, was der klassische Internetnutzer erwartet. Die Verweildauer im Netz auf solchen Geschichten ist in der Regel kurz, 2.500 Zeichen sind für viele schon eine echte Heraus forde - rung. Natürlich gibt es auch hierfür Leser, die kommen dann aber aus der „special interest“- Gruppe. Bewegte Bilder werden in diesem Zusammenhang immer wichtiger. Die Zukunft, davon bin ich felsenfest überzeugt, gehört so oder so den bewegten Bildern! Allerdings nicht denen im TV, sondern denen im Netz. Lineare TV-Programme sind in spätestens zehn Jahren to t! Das klingt provokativ, ich weiß, aber etwas anderes sagen die TV-Macher – wenn sie ehrlich sind – auch nicht. Die meisten Printmedien haben leider viel zu spät die Zeichen der Zeit erkannt. Ausnahmen bestätigen die Regel. Der „falstaf f“ macht das gut, „Vinum“ zumindest inhaltlich. Das optisch und thematisch sicherlich anspruchsvollste Magazin, „FIN E“, hat eine Ausnahmestellung, nur noch vergleichbar mit Titeln wie „VOGU E“. Hier geht es einzig und alleine um Exzellen z! Dafür gibt es immer einen Markt – auch auf Papier. Ich bin mir allerdings ziemlich sicher, dass sich auf diesem Sektor hier bei uns in Deutschland einiges tun wird. Der klassische Weinjournalismus wird sich nachhaltig ändern. Er wird sich den Gepflogenheiten in den sozialen Netzwerken anpassen und zunehmend emotionaler werden. Das wird er auch müssen, ansonsten überlebt er das Ganze nicht. Eines muss in diesem Zusammenhang unbedingt auch einmal ganz deutlich hervorgehoben werden. Das Netz, die digitale Welt, ist auch DIE Chance für alle Weinjournalisten. Profundes Wissen ist gefragt. Der Stil ist entscheidend, der Zeigefinger hat ausgedient. Halbwissen wird abgestraft und ein respektvolles Miteinander auf Augenhöhe ist eine Grundvoraussetzung. Aus den einmal als „Spinner in ihren Blogs“ verächtlich abgetanen Internetweinfreaks ist eine ernstzu- nehmende Stimme geworden. Manche von Ihnen haben in einem Monat mehr Leser, als alle Print-Titel zusammen in einem Quartal Käufer haben. Und den Verlagen und Verlagsleitern sei in diesem Zusammenhang auch einmal ganz deutlich gesagt: gute Arbeit kostet gutes Geld. Aufträge immer nur an den jenigen zu vergeben, der am billigsten liefert, ist auf Dauer keine gute Strategie.

Wer auch immer es ist, der im Netz und in den Netzwerken aktiv ist, am Ende haben wir alle ein Ziel. Es geht um die göttlichste und faszinierendste Rebsorte der Welt – den Riesling. Das Internet mit allen seinen Facetten bietet die perfekte Plattform, um den Riesling in die gesamte Welt zu bringen. Lassen Sie uns das gemeinsam angehe n!

79 Lecturers Moderators Prof. Dr. Monika Christmann

Prof. Dr. Monika Christmann Head of Department for Oenology and Wine Technology and Head of the Winery, Geisenheim University

Professional Career 198 0–1983 BS program „Beverage Technology“, University of applied Science s/ Wiesbaden in Geisenhei m/Germany 198 3–1985 MS program „Oenology“, Justus-Liebig-University Gieße n/ Germany 1988 Doctor in Agricultural Sciences, Justus-Liebig-University Gieße n/ Germany 198 7–1990 Quality Contro l/R& D Manager, Sichel Winery, Alzey 199 1– 1993 Laboratory Director and Member of Winemaking Teams, SIMI Winery in Healdsbur g/California since 1994 Head of Department for Oenology and Wine Technology and Head of the Winery, Geisenheim University since 1995 Lecturing in continuing professional training programs in Germany, Austria, Netherlands, Belgium, Norway and Finland since 1995 German Expert /Delegate at the „International Organisation for Vine and Wine“ (OIV) in Paris 199 8– 2012 Member of Board of Directors Geisenheim Research Institute as Head of Institute I (Grape Breeding, Viticulture and Oenology) 200 3–2006 Oenology Lectures in Bachelor- and Master Programs FH Burgenlan d/Austria 200 4–2010 President of the OIV expert group “Wine Technology” in Paris 200 9–2012 President of the OIV Commission Oenology 201 3– 2016 2nd Vice-President of the OIV as of 3 /2009 Oenology Lectures for Euro-Masters program „Vinifera“ in Montpellier

Participation in Expert Groups, Societies and Organisations: 1. Chairwoman „Betriebsleitertagung Kellerwirtschaft e. V .“ since 1994 2. Member of the Board „Forum Wein und Gesundheit e.V. “ 3. Member of the Organisation „Dr. von Ope l- Prei s“ 4. Member of „ Bundesausschuss für Weinforschung“ (Expert Consultant Group for Federal Ministry for Nutrition, Agriculture and Consumer Protection) 5. Member of the German Research Organisation in Viticulture and Oenology; 6. Committee Member to organise Oenology Symposium at I NTERVITIS /INTERFRUCTA since 1995 7. Member of „Bund Deutscher Önologen“ (Association of German Oenologists) 8. Member of “American Society for Enology and Viticulture” (ASEV)

Review work for various magazines Numerous publications in various magazines and books.

82 Bernd Glauben Hotelier and President Sommelier-Union Germany

Date of Birth 7 August 1962 (in Hombur g/Saar) Graduation University entrance qualification Qualified job Hotel Managment

Occupational Career Parkhotel in Frankfurt Hotel „Europäischer Ho f“ in Heidelberg Gastronomiebetriebe Stockheim in Düsseldorf Hotel Schloss Berg in Nenni g/ Mosel (Pre Opening and Management) Holder 198 6-1993 Gourmetrestaurant „le jardin“ & alfa hotel“ in St. Ingber t/ Saar (198 6–1993 together with Jörg Glauben) since 1994 Holder and owner of „Hotel Goldene Traube“ (4 stars Romantik Hotel in Coburg) and Gourmetrestaurant „Esszimmer“ (1 Michelin Stern)

Membership & Honorary Functions Sommelier-Union Deutschland: Membership since 1990 General Secretary 199 3-1996 President since Januar 1996 Jury Membership in national und international Sommelier-Competitons: World Championship (2000 in Canada) World Championship ( 1998 in Vienna) World Championship (2007 in Greece) „Bester Sommelier Deutschlands – Trophäe Ruinart“ „German Sommelier Cup“ (Competition DWI) Trophy Relais & Châteaux“ Romantik Hotels & Restaurants (Main office Frankfurt am Main; 210 hotels in 11 European countries) Membership (German Advisory Board 1998-2003) Chairman of the German Advisory Board (2001-2003) Member of the International Board of Administration (1998-2004) Member of the International Presidium (2001-2004)

83 Wilhelm Klinger mag Managing Director of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board

Willi Klinger, a previous theatre actor, who has been in top-positions in all wine distribution channels from retail to export, is the Managing Director of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board. He is also lecturer at the University of Natural Resources and Applied Life Sciences, Vienna, the University of Salzburg, the Austrian Wine Academy and the Institute of Masters of Wine (London).

As a son of an Upper Austrian gastronome, he studied Frenc h/ Italian and holds a Master in Philosophy. From 1987 on he learned his craftsmanship from the renowned wine distributor A. V. Stangl in Salzburg. Later, he played a significant role in the development of the Austrian wine retail chain WEIN & CO, before demonstrating pioneer achievements for Austrian wine at an international level as managing director of Domäne Wachau. From 200 0–2006, as the right hand for the Italian cult vintner Angelo Gaja, he was responsible for more than 50 export markets. Since January 1st 2007 he is the Managing Director of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board and the President of the Austrian Wine Academy. Willi Klinger is married, has two children and lives in Vienna.

84 Cornelius Lange Journalist and Architect Fabian Lange Author and Journalist

Cornelius Lange (born 196 3), Author and Journalist. Degree in Journalism from the University of Mainz. Production of corporate videos and develop - ment o f media concepts for trade fairs and exhibits. Fabian Lange (born 196 5), Journalist and Architect. Degree in Architecture from the University of Hannover. Studied under Master Architects Enric Miralles and Peter Cook at the Städelschule School of the Arts in Frankfurt on Main. Journalism Freelance authors and journalists Cornelius and Fabian Lange have published works in leading German publications: Articles about wine, luxury items, lifestyle and restaurant reviews in the “Frankfurter All gemeine Sonntagszeitung”; the wine column on www.zeit.de; articles in "Zeit Wissen" and "DB-mobil"; the weekly news paper DIE ZEIT in the Science, Travel and Business sections; their innovative style earned them the Special Prize from the Prix-Lanson journalism competition. They report on topics related to wine, luxury items and lifestyle for Stern maga - zine, and initiated the "Stern Wine School," with over 1 7,000 participants. The pair are present on www.stern.de through the audio-visual version of the Stern Wine School. Bibliography Das große Fressen – ein kulinarischer Trip ans Ende der Nahrungskette , Eichborn Verlag, Frankfurt am Main | Wein einfach , Hallwag Verlag (2009) | Crashkurs Weinprobe , Hallwag Verlag (2006) | Wein direkt. Ein Weinführer zu 100 deutschen Winzern , Hallwag Verlag (2005) | Keine Angst vor Wein! (Revised new edition), Hallwag Verlag (2004) | Das Weinlexikon, S. Fischer Verlag (2003) Bella Italia; Abenteuer Einkauf; Stile, Trends und Moden , Hallwag Verlag (2001) | Keine Angst vor Wei n! Hallwag Verlag (2000) | Die Rotweinelite Deutschlands , Hallwag Verlag (1999) | Cookbook Mit einem Schuß Wein , Hallwag Verlag | Cookbook Die Tafelspitzen der Gebrüder Lange (Foreword by Wolfram Siebeck), Droemer und Knaur (1998). TV Report on counterfeit Aldi wines for ARD’s Europamagazin ( 6min) and report on the work by Wine Guide Gambero Rosso ( 8min) for Arte (2003) | 12 pieces on famous German vineyards (12x6min) for SWR (2001) | Report on Germany’s elite red wine makers (3 0min) for SW R(1999 ). Exhibitions, Experiential Shows Another focus of their work is on the design of interactive experiential shows (Weinsensorium DWI; Projekt Weinwelt at the Mainzer Zollhafen; Weinerlebnisworld Rheinhessen) on the topics of wine and luxury products. In the process they have focused not just on the target audience of wine experts, but rather have sought to address the broadest possible range of interest groups.

85 Giuseppe Lauria

Giuseppe Lauria Journalist, Communications Advisor, Media Trainer and Certified Coach

Guiseppe Lauria, born 1968, is a journalist, communications advisor, media trainer and certified coach (www.gl-kommunikation.de). Since 2008, he has been responsible for the Rheingau region in the well-known Gault Millau Wine Guide. As an expert in both the German and inter - national wine scene, he has also been a frequent contributor to leading international wine magazines, with a focus on Germany, Italy, Australia and Bordeaux.

He sits on the jury of numerous wine competitions, awarding winners based on blind tastings. Blending his experience in communications, media and finance with his wine expertise, Mr. Lauria offers high-end wine seminars and moderates exclusive tastings. (www.wine-sensation.de).

In 2007, he won the “Sicilia Madre Mediterranea,” an internationally recognized journalistic award from the Agricultural Chamber of Sicily, for his article covering the renaissance of the extreme wine growing region on Mount Etna.

In addition to his responsibilities as wine journalist and critic, Mr. Lauria is the owner of GL Communications — a firm specializing in strategic communications and performance consulting. Having already worked as an on-air expert for German's ZDF television broadcaster and international business and financial news broadcasters (Bloomberg TV, CNBC Europe), Mr. Lauria then switched to the other side of the desk. Since 2002 Mr. Lauria has offered consulting services for decision makers at leading corporations, associations and institutions, helping them improve their media reputation and positioning and prepare for public appea- rances.

86 Caro Maurer mw Wine Writer and Journalist

Caro Maurer, MW, is a wine writer and journalist currently residing in Bonn. Early in her career she spent time as a correspondent in both New York and Los Angeles, and later went on to assume editorial responsibility for the Lifestyle section of the German edition of Forbes magazine and the daily newspaper Die Welt. Over the last twenty years, she has established herself as a leading expert on the topics of food and wine. She writes regularly for the Bonn General-Anzeiger newspaper and Der Feinschmecker and Fine magazines. She also teaches for the WSET in Germany, Austria and Norway and is actively involved in the Institute of the Masters of Wine. In addition she moderates wine tastings, and sits on the jury of nume - rous international wine competitions in places as widespread as Chile, Argentina, Georgia, and the Decanter WWA (World Wine Awards) in London. Caro Maurer is to date the only woman with a German language background to hold the Master of Wine title.

87 Stuart Pigott

) Wine Writer and Journalist c i z d a r www.stuartpigott.de a K

k u V

: o t o F

I was born on 26 May 1960 in Orpington Hospital in Southeast London. My first wine harvest was in 1967 during the Summer of Love. In an atypically courageous moment for me, I hung out of my first floor bedroom window and picked grapes off the vine growing against the wall of our small house. Thanks to the hot summer, the Trollinger berries which I threw down to my waiting friends were dark in color and tasted ripe. I was in my early twenties and a student in London when I first began writing about wine. It was often more interesting than my studies and I was paid for doing it too. When my first articles were published in Decanter Magazine in 1984 I was beginning studying for a masters degree in cultural history at the Royal College of Art (RCA) and had no idea that this “sideline” would be- come my whole life after I graduated in July 1986. Within a few years I’d moved to Berlin where I became fluent in spoken and written German. Since September 2001 I’ve been the wine colum - nist of the Sunday Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung, Germany’s equivalent of The New York Times. Inspired by the American writers Hunter S. Thompson and Tom Wolfe I have attempted to deve - lop a revolutionary new style of wine journalism worthy of the title “Gonzo wine journalism.” Out of this decade long process came a trilogy of books on the subject of wine and globalization: “Schöne neue Weinwelt” (Brave New Wine World, Argon, 2003); “Wilder Wein” (Wild Wine, Scherz, 2006); and “Wein weit weg” (Wine Far Away, Scherz, 2009). In 2007 with the help of the photographer Andreas Durst and co-authors Ursula Heinzelmann, Chandra Kurt, Manfred Lüer and Stephan Reinhardt I produced “Wein spricht Deutsch” (Wine Speaks German, Scherz, 2007), a standard work on the wines of the German-speaking countries. In October 2008 I began two semesters as a guest student at the famous wine school in Geisen- heim, Germany. Thanks to the generous loan by Christian and Simone Stahl of Winzerhof Stahl (Auernhofen, Franconia) involving 10 rows of Müller-Thurgau vines and service on the brutally steep Hasennest site, I was able to make a dry 2009 Müller-Thurgau (presented in Berlin in September 2010). Then in 2010 I co-wrote the scripts for the first 2 series of “Weinwunder Deutschland” (Wine Wonder Germany) with director Alexander Saran and spent several weeks with him and his team filming. THE BEST WHITE WINE ON EARTH – The Riesling Story (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2014) is the culmination of many years and miles of research beginning on 1 Feb, 2012 in Adelaide, Australia and covering New Zealand, Austria, Germany, and the many, many Riesling regions of North America. This is my first English language book in almost a decade, and I can’t tell you how glad I am to be back in my mother tongue! I ’ve been away from it for far too long. I have a thirst for wine and for truth, and because we live in an interconnected world the truth in wine leads me to many other truths. The view through the front windshield is so much bigger than that in the rear view mirror, and focusing on it has made me who I am today.

88 Prof. Dr. Hans Reiner Schultz President of Geisenheim University

Hans Schultz grew up in the Mosel Valley, Germany, where his parents owned a small family operated vineyard and winery. He received a Bachelor of Science degree, majoring in viticulture and enology from Geisenheim, Germany in 1983, and a Master of Science in Horticulture/ Plant Biology from the University of California, Davis (UCD), USA, in 1986. He continued to work on a Ph .D. in crop science in Geisenheim and Davis which he completed in 1989. He then began work on post-doctoral projects at UCD before joining a European research project at the Ecole Nationale Supérieure Agronomique (today SupAgro) in Montpellier, France in 1993. In 1995 he was appointed Head of the Viticulture Department at the Forschungsanstalt Geisenheim (Geisenheim Research Center, GRC), and professor of Viticulture at the Fachhochschule Wiesbade n/ Geisenheim, Germany. He was appointed Director of the GRC in April 2009 and President of the newly formed Geisenheim University in 20 13.

89 Dr. Manfred Stoll (Dipl. Ing.; Dipl. Biol.) Current Head Department of General and Organic Viticulture, Geisenheim University

born 28 th June 1965 Academic Record 2009 Current Head Department of General and Organic Viticulture, Geisenheim University 200 5–2009 Research Scientist, Section of viticulture -Geisenheim Research Center 200 0–2002 Postdoctoral fellowship (University of Dundee) School of Life Sciences Topic: Plant Ecophysiology 1997 –2000 PhD student (The University of Adelaide) Recipient of an Overseas Postgraduate Research Scholarship (OPRS) Research Topic: Effects of partial rootzone drying on grapevine physiology and fruit quality (Vitis vinifera L.) Supervisor: Prof. Brian Loveys (CSIRO Plant Industry) , Dr. Peter Dry (Th e University of Adelaide) 1997 CSIRO Plant Industry Horticulture Unit Adelaide Research work under supervision of Prof. Dr. Brian Loveys Funded by a scholarship from the German Academic Exchange Service (DAAD) Project title: partial rootzone drying: a new irrigation technique for grapevines 1991 –1996 Diploma (equivalent to a M.Sc.) in Biology Julius Maximilians Universit yofWürzburg (Germany), Department of Plant Physiology Thesis entitled: Non-uniform stomatal aperture in grapevin e leave s (Vitis vinifer a L.) Supervisors: Dr. habil Helmut Düring (Inst. of Grapevine Breeding, Geilweilerhof) Prof. Wolfram Hartung (University of Würzburg) 1987- 1990 Diplom Ingenieur (technical diploma in viticulture and oenology) Institute for viticulture and grapevine breeding Thesis entitled: Fungal disease resistance of Vitis amurensis breedings Supervisor: Prof. Helmut Becker Employment History 200 2–2005 consultant in viticulture and related areas such as winemaking and wine marketing Winery: “Weingut am Stein”; Ludwig Knoll, Würzburg (Germany) 199 0-1995 Vineyard manager “Weingut am Stein”, Ludwig Knoll, Würzburg (Germany) 1993, 1996 Work experience in plant biochemistry; Institute of Plant Biochemistry (IPB); Halle (Saale, Germany); Collaborator: Prof. Claus Wasternack 198 5-1987 Apprenticeship in viticulture and oenology, with special emphasis in grapevine graf ting and “dessert -wine” making; “Weingut Kurt Darting”, Bad Dürkheim (Germany) 1996 until present: reviewing articles for:Precision Agriculture; Vitis; Journal Experimental of Botany; Functional Plant Biology; Journal of wine research; Agricultural Water Management VITS-VEA, a literature database in the field of viticulture

90 Dirk Würtz Estate Manager at the VDP-Weingut Balthasar Ress and Wine Blogger

Dirk Würtz (born 1968 ) is Estate Manager at the VDP Weingut Balthasar Ress, located in Hattenheim, Germany. A true pioneer, Dirk was among the first in the German wine world to establish a significant social media presence on both Facebook and Twitter. He has also maintained an active wine blog at www.wuertz-wein.de since 2008. In 2011, he began filming a series of educational videos (“stern.de-Weinschule”) for the German online edition of “Stern.” He lectures and writes both nationally and internationally for numerous books and publi- cations. And in 2012 began holding “New Media” seminars for Geisenheim University.

91 Winery Profiles Australia | Clare Valley

Name Jim Barry Wines Address 33 Craig Hill Road, Clare, South Australia 5453 eMail [email protected] Website www.jimbarry.com Owner Peter & Sue Barry Winemaker Tom Barry Founded 1959 Size (ha/acres) 24 3/600 Production 80,000 (cases 12/ 75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 3 0%, Shiraz 40%, Cabernet Sauvignon 30%

Winemaking Philosophy

Jim Barry Wines has an innovative approach to viticulture and a drive for excellence in winemaking. At the centre of this philosophy is a commitment to owning their vineyards, allowing consistency and control throughout the winemaking process, to maintain quality. Over the last fifty years, Jim Barry Wines has worked to establish a mosaic of vineyards across the Clare Valley, building six viticultural holdings in Clare, each a unique site in aspect and soil.

94 Australia | Frankland River

Name Frankland Estate Address 530 Frankland Road, Frankland River, Western Australia eMail [email protected] Website www.franklandestate.com.au Owner Hunter Smith Winemaker Hunter Smith Founded 1988 Size (ha/acres) 30/ 74 Production 20,000 (cases 12/ 75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 3 0%, Shiraz 3 0%, Cabernet Franc and other 4 0%

Winemaking Philosophy

Frankland Estate is a family owned and operated premium wine producer located in the isolated Frankland River region some 380 kilometers south-east of Perth the capital city of Western Australia. Situated far from population and industrial centers the region has ancient weathered soils and a pristine, pollution -free grape -growing environment free of major vine pests or diseases. Summer temperatures and moderated by on - shore winds off the Southern Ocean creating cool, mild conditions that allow grapes to ripen slowly resulting in fresh delicate and highly aromatic wines. The winemaking potential of the region was first identified in 1956 by the renowned US viticulturist Dr Harold Olmo who noted the climate was similar to the Bordeaux region in France. Frankland Estate was established in 1988 and is committed to making wines that offer an authentic expression of both varietal character and the distinctive features of the natural environment in which they were grown. To this nd meticulous attention to detail in every aspect of grape growing and winemaking is combined with a minimal intervention approach in the handling of grapes, juice and wine. This results in complex, well-balanced wines that have a distinctive sense of place and are generally considered more subtle and elegant than most contemporary Australian wine styles.

95 Australia | Clare Valley

Name Grosset Wines Address King Street Auburn South Australia 5451 eMail [email protected] Website www.grosset.com.au Owner Jeffrey Grosset Winemaker Jeffrey Grosse t & Brent Treloar Founded 1981 Size (ha/acres) 21/ 52 Production 11, 000 (cases 12/ 75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 6 9%, Semillo n/ Sauvignon Blanc 9%, Cabernet Sauvigno n/ Cabernet Franc 7%, others 1 5%

Winemaking Philosophy

Jeffrey Grosset, owner and founder, has always been an innovator, challen - ging tradition and questioning accepted practices. He campaigned to insti - tute the legal integrity of the riesling grape in Australia, was a leading pro - ponent for the introduction of screwcap closures and privately funded rese - arch into the subject.

Grosset Wines’ philosophy has remained steadfast over thirty years. The emphasis is on purity of fruit. The estate vineyards, which are ACO certified organic, are hand tended and each bunch of grapes is harvested at optimum ripeness. The winemaking process is gentle and uncomplicated. With dedi - cation, discipline and the application of knowledge garnered through deca - des of experience, the result is the finest expression of variety and place.

96 Australia | Barossa Valley

Name Henschke Address 1428 Keyneton Road eMail Keyneton South Australia 5353 Website [email protected] Owner www.henschke.com.au Winemaker Stephen & Prue Henschke Founded Stephen Henschke Size (ha/acres) 1868 Production 10 0/247 Grape Varieties 40,000 (cases 12 /75 0ml-btls.) Riesling 11 %, Shiraz 40%, Pinot Noir 9%, others 40%

Winemaking Philosophy

Henschke is a sixth generation family wine estate established in 1868 in the Barossa’s Eden Valley. The Henschke reputation is linked with the Julius reserve Riesling and Mount Edelstone and Hill of Grace, Stephen’s flagship single vineyards shiraz wines. Stephen and Prue believe in careful tradi- tional winemaking and use organic and biodynamic practices to enrich the land of their forebears and to strengthen the future for their children and generations to come. The Henschke philosophy is ‘Exceptional Wines from Outstanding Vineyards’.

97 Austria | Kamptal

Name Weingut Bründlmayer Address Zwettler Straße 23, 3550 Langenlois eMail [email protected] Website www.bruendlmayer.at Owner Willi Bründlmayer Winemaker Willi Bründlmayer Founded 1581 Size (ha/acres) 80/198 Production 40,000 (cases 12/75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 3 0%, Grüner Veltliner 4 0%, Pinot Noir 9%, others 2 1%

Winemaking Philosophy

Outstanding grapes are the basis of our search for an individual expression. Ecology is a guiding principle. We tend to support, not suppress, the indivi - duality of the year and the single vineyards. Our approach occasionally leads to extreme results, which are, however, in some ways very balanced and natural. Nature is sometimes harsh and difficult, but it never lacks charm when expressed in the form of wine. Each year is different and a challenge. We earnestly try to adapt to the tunes of nature. Bründlmayer is a family operation that assembles a bunch of enthusiastic people who devote their passions to wine.

98 Austria | Kamptal

Name Weingut Schloss Gobelsburg Address Schloßstraße 16, 3550 Gobelsburg eMail [email protected] Website www.gobelsburg.at Owner Michael Moosbrugger Winemaker Michael Moosbrugger Founded 1171 Size (ha/acres) 45/111 Production 15,000 (cases 12/ 75 0ml-btls) Grape Varieties Riesling 2 5%, Grüner Veltliner 5 5% and Red Varieties 20%

Winemaking Philosophy

Schloss Gobelsburg is the oldest winery in the Austrian Danube region with a documented history back to 1171. The history of the winery is connected to Cistercian monks, but since January 1996 the Château and winery is managed by Eva & Michael Moosbrugger (Winemaker of the year 2006, Wine & Spirits Top 100 Winery of the year 2009 & 2010 & 2011 & 2013). Nowadays the winemakers are focusing on the production of authentic and noble wines from different terroirs.

99 Austria | Wachau

Name Weingut Franz Hirtzberger Address 3620 Spit z/Donau, Kremserstraße 8 eMail [email protected] Website www.hirtzberger.com Owner Franz Hirtzberger Winemaker Franz Hirtzberger Founded 1898 Size (ha/acres) 30/ 74 Production 15,00 0–17 ,000 (cases 12/75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 4 0%, Grüner Veltliner 5 5%, others 5% (Weißburgunder, Grauburgunder, Chardonnay, Neuburger)

Winemaking Philosophy

The distinctive climate and the unique soil are the basis for the originality of the wines. Through highly physiological ripe grapes due to a very late and picky harvest and “controlled inactivity” in the cellar it is possible to display this uniqueness. National and international recognition show the high quality of Hirtzberger wines.

100 Austria | Kamptal

Name Weingut Jurtschitsch Address Rudolfstraße 39, 3550 Langenlois eMail [email protected] Website www.jurtschitsch.com Owner Jurtschitsch Family Winemaker Stefanie & Alwin Jurtschitsch Founded 1541 Size (ha/acres) 64/158 Production 28,000 (cases 12/75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 2 0%, Grüner Veltliner 6 0%, Zweigelt and Pinot Noir 2 0%

Winemaking Philosophy

Professionalism, vigour and confidence are reflected when Alwin Jurtschitsch talks about soil, terroir and his beloved natural yeasts. “Converting the wine estate’s entire grape growing – with some of the vine- yards being tiny plots – to controlled organic methods which was planned meticulously over many years is literally yielding quality fruit.”

Passion in wine, delight in nature – It is the wine itself and its nature which inspires us. With specific varieties from separate terroir, we intervene as little as possible in the vinifaction process. The wine shall develop itself in the 700 -year -old natural cellar. Due to the long maturing process on its own yeast, the wine stabilizes in the spring and summer.

Wines of crystalline minerality, clearness and vitality, with distinct character and aromas. The cool climate Kamp Valley promotes intense fruity flavours combined with spicy freshness. Each individual vintage reflects the variety of the soils and the micro-climatic conditions – typical for each grape variety.

101 Austria | Wachau

Name Weingut Emmerich Knoll Address Unter-Loiben 10, 3601 Dürnstein eMail [email protected] Website www.loibnerhof.at/de/weingut.html Owner Emmerich & Monika Knoll Winemaker Emmerich H. Knoll Founded Family Business since 1825, after producing wine only for the family owned Restaurant Loibnerhof, 1961 was the first vintage to be sold with the distinctive label painted by Siegfried Stoitzner Size (ha/acres) 16 /40 Production 7,000 (cases 12 /75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 42%, Grüner Veltliner 48%, others 10 %

Winemaking Philosophy

Not being certified in any biological standard we try to produce grapes the most sustainable way according to the circumstances of weather and vineyard. All grapes get selectively handpicked, after undestemmed crushing we have maceration times for some hours.

Selected Yeast and spontaneous fermentations are allowed up to 25 °C. After the first rack, soon after yeast came to an end, the wines stay on their fine lees for about 6 month before getting filtered and bottled.

Our goal is to use as little influence to the wines as possible, to show both, the variety- and vineyardstyle with a strong accentuation of the vintage.

102 Austria | Kamptal

Name Weingut Fred Loimer Address Haindorfer Vögerlweg 23, 3550 Langenlois eMail [email protected] Website www.loimer.at Owner Fred Loimer Winemaker Fred Loimer Founded 1962 Size (ha/acres) 70 /173 Production 30,000 (cases 12 /75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 2 0%, Grüner Veltliner 5 0%, Zweigelt 10 %, Pinot Noir 10 %, others 10 %

Winemaking Philosophy

“I kn ow very well how contradictory one must be in order to be consisten t!” Pier Paolo Pasolini

“I like to be surprised,” Fred Loimer always says. Indeed, he is – and was always – good for surprises. For example, in 2000, he built a modern, minimalistic “black box” over his historic brick vault cellar in Langenlois, something that 'disturbed' the traditional layout of the winery and its cellar lane ensemble. Also, in 2006, he began to convert his vineyards to the stan - dards of biodynamic agriculture. And a year later, he and his fellow wine - making colleagues founded an association calle d “Respek t” to ensure that the targets of biodynamics in winemaking are constantly being met.

Because at Weingut Loimer, everyone is convinced that only winegrowing that follows the lines of nature will yield wines with regional character and typicity. And this is not only an issue of protecting soils and resources, but also – quality.

103 Austria | Wachau

Name Weingut F . X. Pichler Address Oberloiben 5 7, 3 601 Dürnstein eMail [email protected] Website ww w.f x-pichler.at Owner Family F .X. Pichler Winemaker Lucas Pichler Founded 1989 Size (ha/acres) 18 /44 Production 10,000 (cases 12 /75 0ml-btls.) FX Grape Varieties Riesling 4 9%, Grüner Veltliner 50%, Sauvignon Blanc 1%

Winemaking Philosophy

Our philosophy is to get the best out of the excellent potential nature offers us. A responsibility not only towards our family, but also towards nature, history and the wine, because our capital is the vineyards, the vines and the understanding gained from tradition in association with intuition and world- openness.

104 Canada | Niagara Peninsula

Name Cave Spring Cellars Address 3836 Main Street, Jordan, ON L0R 1 S0 eMail [email protected] Website www.cavespring.ca Owner Pennachetti Family & Angelo Pavan Winemaker Angelo Pavan Founded 1986 Size (ha/acres) 66/163 Production 50,000 (cases 12 /75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 5 5%, Chardonnay 15%, others 3 0%

Winemaking Philosophy

Named after the limestone caves and mineral springs located in their epo- ny mous vineyard, Cave Spring Cellars has been producing outstanding wines nearly for 30 years. Founded and to this day operated by the Pennachetti family and veteran winemaker Angelo Pavan, this steemed estate has been vital in the development of the wine industry in Niagara, most notably as pioneers of vitis vinifera with plantings dating back to the 1970’s and the refinement of the regional style for Riesling as one of the Peninsula’s definitive varieties. In addition, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, and traditional method sparkling wines complete the core of a diverse portfolio, with the very best of these coming from vines up to 40 years of age planted in the limestone- clay soils of their Cave Spring Vineyard on the Beamsville Bench.

105 Canada | British Columbia (Okanagan Valley)

Name Tantalus Vineyards Address 1670 Dehart Road, Kelowna V1 W-4N6 eMail [email protected] Website www.tantalus.ca Owner Eric Savics Winemaker David Paterson Founded 2004 Size (ha/acres) 20/49 Production 6,000 (cases 12 /75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Rieslin g40%, Pinot Noir 30%, Chardonnay 20%, others 10 %

Winemaking Philosophy

At Tantalus Vineyards we strive to make the best quality wine that each season gives us. To achieve this we believe that a healthy, balanced vine- yard is paramount. With great fruit comes the opportunity to craft excellent wine with minimal intervention. It is our goal to employ ambient yeast and minimal additives in guiding our wines to bottle. As a result of this philo- sophy, our wines are bottled with only a small amount of sulphur. Just grapes in a glass, is to us, the ultimate expression of each unique vintage.

106 France | Alsace

Name F. E. Trimbach Address 15 Rte de Bergheim 68150 Ribeauvillé eMail [email protected] Website www.trimbach.fr Owner Trimbach Family Winemaker Pierre Trimbach, 12th generation Founded 1626 Size (ha/acres) 44/109 owned, grapes selectio n/ purchasing as well Production 83,000 (cases 12 /75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 5 0%, others 5 0%

Winemaking Philosophy

Actually, 7words: Balance, balance, balance, everything else is «blablabl a»

More seriously, our Family has been known in winemaking for some years now, as we started in 1626. The style of wine we produce has always remain the same: we look for balance, for purity, elegance and finesse in our wines. We also have been reputed for the drier style of wines we produce in Alsace. Pierre Trimbach has been elected as one of the to p 10 white winemakers in the world in 2006 by Decanter magazine. They mentioned he is a "purist ".

107 France | Alsace

Name Domaine Weinbach Address Clos des Capucins – 25 route du vin 68240 Kaysersberg eMail [email protected] Website www.domaineweinbach.com Owner Colette, Catherine & Laurence Faller Winemaker Laurence Faller Founded 1898 Size (ha/acres) 30 /74 Production 12,000 (cases 12 /75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 40%, Gewurztraminer 2 5%, Pinot Gris 12%, others 23%

Winemaking Philosophy

The 30 hectares of Domaine Weinbach are some of the finest vineyards on the hills and valley of Kaysersberg including the prestigious Grands Crus Schlossberg, Furstentum, Mambourg and Marckrain, as well as the re nowned Altenbourg and Clos des Capucins, each of which imparts its indivi dual character to the wines.

The primary concern is to produce the highest quality grapes which express the personality of the Alsace grape varieties and the richness of their terroirs. Biodynamic viticulture, low yields, hand-picking of grapes at their optimum maturity, slow natural yeast fermentation in ancien t, large oak casks: all contribute to the intensity and balance of the wines.

Our philosophy is to produce wines that show authenticity, concentration and complexity, as well as great purity, intensity of fruit, balance and elegance.

108 Germany | Rheingau

Name Weingut Fritz Allendorf Address Kirchstrasse 69, 65375 Oestrich-Winkel eMail [email protected] Website www.allendorf.de Owner Christine Schönleber & Ulrich Allendorf Winemaker Josef & Max Schönleber Founded 1292 Size (ha/acres) 64/158 Production 54,000 (cases 12 /75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 75%, Pinot Noir 2 0%, others 5%

Winemaking Philosophy

Our family has lived for 700 years in the Rheingau. This history provides us both with an obligation and also an incentive, as we consider tradition to be very important and that it helps us to achieve positive change. Together with our employees, we will also do our very best in future to achieve the highest quality and to optimally nurture and care for our vines so we can produce the finest wines for you.

With lots of Riesling and Pinot Noir in our hearts, we remain cordially yours, the Allendorf and Schönleber families.

109 Germany | Rheingau

Name Wein - und Sektgut BARTH Address Bergweg 20, 65347 Hattenheim eMail [email protected] Website www.weingut-barth.de Owner Christine & Norbert Barth Winemaker Mark Barth Founded 1948 Size (ha/acres) 20/49 Production 12,000 (cases 12/750 ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 7 8%, Pinot Noir 2 0%, others 2%

Winemaking Philosophy

The family-run BARTH Wine and Sparkling Wine Estate is situated in the village of Hattenheim, in middle of the Rheingau valley and has about 2 0ha of vineyards under organic cultivation. It is a member of the prestigious VD P(Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüte r). The varieties are mostly typical for the region such as Riesling and Pinot Noir but also Pinot Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Hattenheim grand cru sites like Hassel or Wissel - brunnen are south facing, consisting of loam, clay, marl and quartzite. These optimum terroir conditions are the perfect base for meaningful wines and sparkling wines, which are hand crafted by traditional bottle fermentation, single variety and minimum of 24 months maturation on the yeast before disgorging.

Striving to combine traditional values and modern technologies, BARTH is always looking for new, innovative ways of working with the natural product wine and sparkling wine on the highest possible quality level.

110 Germany | Rheinhessen

Name Weingut Battenfeld Spanier Address Bahnhofstraße 33 67591 Hohen -Sülzen eMail kontakt@battenfeld -spanier.de Website www.battenfeld -spanier.de Owner H.O. Spanier & Carolin Spanier -Gillot Winemaker H.O. Spanie r Founded 1990 Size (ha/acres) 28/ 69 Production 12,500 (cases 12/ 75 0 ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 6 5%, Pinot Noir 20%, others 15 %

Winemaking Philosophy

“To my mind, wine should communicate a direct impression of the soil charac teristics of the southern Wonnegau: marled chalk and chalk pebbles, all the way to solid limestone. One should be able to experience and taste the rock.Riesling is my vision. In the Wonnegau, no grape is able to translate light and soil into wine as precisely or succulently. I judge Riesling’s super- ficial fruitiness to be only a pretense. It is merely an intermediate phase, before the metamorphosis to a true stone wine begins. In reality, a natural Riesling wine is less fruit, and rather much more herbs, spices, saltiness, and flint. That’s why my primary slogan is LIQUID EARTH. It took until 2005 before I was able to concern myself with the background of biodynamic.” H.O. Spanier

111 Germany | Rheingau

Name Weingut Georg Breuer Address Geisenheimer Straße 9 65385 Rüdesheim am Rhein eMail [email protected] Website www.georg-breuer.com Owner Breuer family Winemaker Hermann Schmoranz Founded 1880 Size (ha/acres) 33/ 82 Production 20,000 (cases 1 2/ 750 ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 8 5%, Pinot Noir 10%, others 5%

Winemaking Philosophy

For us quality originates from our vineyards. Older vines, low yields and sole handpicking are very important to us. By allowing herbs and weeds to cover the vineyard soil we prevent erosion and even accept lower yields. The vita - lity of the vines is strengthened by their more natural environment. When yields are too high, in the end of summer, we eliminate unripe grapes in order to achieve higher quality for the remaining grapes. This guarantees that one can taste the terroir when drinking the wine. Picking selectively by hand, in several passages, will further improve the quality of the grapes.

There is no high tech in our cellars. Art and craft is our guideline. All wines are vinified individually in containers with a maximum volume of 2400 litres. Seventy percent of our storage capacity is in big old German oak barrels. They can be used between 50 and 1 00 years. The temperature during fermentation is not computer controlled as it is today’s state-of-the-art. However we accept on purpose varying conditions for fermentation resulting in more character and variety.

112 Germany | Pfalz

Name Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Address Weinstraße 65 67 157 Wachenheim a.d.W. eMail [email protected] Website www.buerklin-wolf.de Owner Mrs Bettina Bürklin von Guradze Winemaker Mr Nicola Libelli Founded 1597 Size (ha/acres) 86/213 Production 42,000 (cases 1 2/ 750 ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 82%, Pinot Blanc 7%, Pinot Noir 6%, others 5%

Winemaking Philosophy

We pay more than lip service to our dedication to the term terroir, for many years it has been expression of our respect for our soils and their unique and unmistakable characteristics.

113 Germany | Franken

Name Fürstlich Castell’sches Domänenamt Address Schlossplatz 5, 97355 Castell, eMail [email protected] Website www.castell.de Owner Ferdinand Erbgraf zu Castell-Castell Director Karl-Heinz Rebitzer Sales Manager Philipp Kollmar Winemaker Peter Hemberger & Christian Friess Founded 1224 Size (ha/acres) 70 /173 Production 37,500 (cases 12/750 ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 8%, Silvaner 4 0%, Müller-Thurgau 21%, Redwines 14 %, others 17%

Winemaking Philosophy

Castell is a special place, where we celebrate history and tradition. In aware - ness of our history, we cannot imagine a better task than to work towards advancing this tradition. In the dark vaults of the Castle Cellar, wrapped in decades-old dust, lies the top-level produce of the best years. Next door new Castell Wines are created and vinified each year – a task which we continue to fulfil respecting the high demands of our history and our wines.

114 Germany | Rheinhessen

Name Weingut H. Dönnhoff Address Bahnhofstr. 11, 55585 Oberhause n/ Nahe eMail [email protected] Website www.doennhoff.com Owner Helmut & Cornelius Dönnhoff Winemaker Cornelius Dönnhoff Founded more than 200 years Size (ha/acres) 25/ 62 Production 12,500 (cases 12/ 750 ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 8 0%, Pinot Gris & Pinot Blanc 2 0%

Winemaking Philosophy

We are lucky to own vineyards that offer wines with impressive minerality and fruit. They have built the reputation of the Nahe region. We feel obligated to continue this natural quality through our gentle work in vine- yard and cellar.

115 Germany | Nahe

Name Weingut Emrich-Schönleber Address Soonwaldstraß e10a, 55569 Monzingen eMail [email protected] Website www.emrich-schoenleber.com Owner Werner & Frank Schönleber Winemaker Frank Schönleber Founded Viticulture since mid of 18th century Size (ha/acres) 18/44 Production 11, 000 (cases 12/75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 8 6%, Pinot Gris 6%, Pinot Blanc 6%, others 2%

Winemaking Philosophy

Our basic fundamentals: Schönleber wines offer true drinking pleasure. They are honest, authentic, unembellished expressions of their origin. We produce wines with distinctive personalities.

These essentials instruct us in everything we do, from planting the vines to botteling.

In terms of the process from grape to wine, every cask or tank is unique.

116 Germany | Franken

Name Weingut Rudolf Fürst Address Hohenlindenweg 46, 63927 Bürgstadt eMail [email protected] Website www.weingut-rudolf-fuerst.de Owner Paul & Sebastian Fürst Winemaker Sebastian Fürst Founded 1638 Size (ha/acres) 20/49 Production 10,000 (cases 12/ 75 0 ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 17 %, Pinot Noir 6 0%, others 2 3%

Winemaking Philosophy

Fürst - The Wine Estate: In the westernmost corner of the Franconian wine region, framed by the low mountain range s of Spessart and Odenwald, unique conditions have been created by time and weather. Here the Fürst Family has been making wine since 1638. In 1979 Paul and Monika Fürst built the new es tate amidst the vineyards and in 2007 they were joined by their son Sebastian.

Facing due south and overlooking the picturesque towns of Miltenberg and Bürgstadt the slopes of the Centgrafenberg are home to most of the vines. The Pinots and Riesling especially love the warm and iron rich soils formed by the weathering of red sandstone.

The quality and structure of the wines is ensured by minimal intervention in the vineyards, reduced yields, gentle vinification and long barrel aging. Nestling between the woods of Spessart and Odenwald the river Main has formed a basin, creating an environment perfect for the Pinot vines. The mild climate promotes ripening of the grapes and the soil provides them with the structure for which the Fürsts' red wines are known. Over the last decades there has been much investment in the quality of the vineyards. Natural cultivation, reduced yields, extensive canopy management, graduated picking of the grapes and careful vinification with long barrel aging time make sure the wines reach their full potential.

The cellar philosophy is simple; make a careful selection when harvesting, preserve what comes in from the vineyards, employ careful bunch selection at the cellar door.

117 Germany | Mosel

Name Weingut Grans-Fassian Address Römerstraße 28, 54340 Leiwen eMail [email protected] Website www.grans-fassian.de Owner Gerhard Grans Winemaker Gerhard Grans & Kilian Klein Founded 1624 Size (ha/acres) 11/ 27 Production 7,500 (cases 12/ 75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 9 0%, Pinot 10 %

Winemaking Philosophy

Best vineyards, best cultivation of the vineyards, late harvest, multiple selection of grapes, maceration, gentle pressing, natural sedimentation, long and cool fermentation in stainless steel tanks, long lasting on yeast, only one filtration before bottling.

118 Germany | Rheinhessen

Name Weingut K.F. Groebe Address Mainzer Strasse 18, 67593 Westhofen eMail [email protected] Website www.weingut-k-f-groebe.de Owner Friedrich Groebe Winemaker Friedrich Groebe Founded 1763 Size (ha/acres) 9/22 Production 4,500 (cases 12/ 75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 70 %, Silvaner 10 %, Pinot Gris 10 %, others 10 %

Winemaking Philosophy

Making good wine requires a philosophy and outstanding skills – not technology. Wine is part of our culture. Good wines, having their very own special character, can be only produced at certain locations and with the necessary knowledge about them. Our grapes are cultivated in century-old vineyards of Westhofen on soils that have been responsibly cared for by our family for generations. By liberally cutting back the vines in spring, by not using mineral fertilizers, and the having a variety of natural growth at the individual sites, a natural competition is generated in the vineyards. The vines will suffer and are forced to look for their nourishment in the deeper layers of the soil.This principle is the foundation for unique wines, which in turn will reflect their origin – the “terroir” – a unity composed of the soil, the micro-climate and the vintner.

119 Germany | Mosel

Name Weingut Reinhold Haart Address Ausoniusufer 18, 5448 Piespor t/ Mosel eMail [email protected] Website www.haart.de Owner Theo, Edith & Johannes Haart Winemaker Johannes Haart Founded 1921, winemaking tradition since 1337 Size (ha/acres) 8/20 Production 4,000 (cases 12/ 75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 100 %

Winemaking Philosophy

Production of high quality Riesling with great aging potential and distinctive vineyard character. Winemaking influence is kept to a min imum to preserve the natural style of vineyard and vintage.

120 Germany | Baden

Name Weingut Dr. Heger Address Bachenstraße 19, 79241 Ihringen eMail [email protected] Website www.heger-weine.de Owner Joachim Heger Winemaker Jürgen Jehle Founded 1935 Size (ha/acres) 26/ 64 Production 12,500 (cases 12/ 75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 10%, Pino t Noir 3 0%, Pinot Gris 3 0%, Pinot Blanc 15 %, others 15%

Winemaking Philosophy

Close to nature, hands on in the vineyard, hands off in the cellar. Most of the wines produced are fermented completely dry, in special years like 1998 or 2008 we enjoy making dessert wines. We work with a lot of oak barrels in different sizes. The picking time is most important for the wine quality, combined with gentle vinification methods and enough patience to give each wine the time it needs.

121 Germany | Nahe

Name Gut Hermannsberg Address ehem. Weinbaudomäne 55585 Niederhause n/Nahe eMail [email protected] Website www.gut-hermannsberg.de Owner Dr. Christine Dinse & Jens Reidel Winemaker Karsten Peter Founded 1902, as Königlich Preussische Weinbaudomäne Size (ha/acres) 30/ 74 Production 10,00 0 (cases 1 2/ 75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 9 5%, Pinot Blanc 5%

Winemaking Philosophy

Although great wines do indeed originate in the vineyards, their time in the cellar shapes them into what they will ultimately become. Once the grapes, harvested at optimum ripeness and condition, are transported from the vineyards to our cellar doors, we handle them with only the utmost care and respect. With nature as our guide, we forgo, for example, the fining of either must or wine.

We are not looking to 'make' wine, but rather to follow our unshakable faith in the unique potential of our vineyards. Each lot is vinified separately to give it a better chance to unfold its full range of individual properties and characteristics – even among grapes harvested from within a single site.

At the end of the day, we pledge allegiance not to an ordained style, but rather to the authenticity of our wines.

122 Germany | Mosel

Name Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein Address Bahnhofstraße 10, 56333 Winningen eMail [email protected] Website www.hlweb.de Owner Cornelia Heymann-Löwenstein & Reinhard Löwenstein Winemaker Reinhard Löwenstein Founded 1980 Size (ha/acres) 14/35 Production 9,000 (cases 12/ 75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 9 9%, others 1%

Winemaking Philosophy

If we succeed in sublimating the identity of the terroir into the wine, if the creative synthesis of the soil, vines, microclimate and the ability of the vintner become a unique, authentic sensory experience, then wine is more that just good taste. The genesis of our vineyards began 400 million years ago. At that time, in the Devon age, todays Europe was situated in the tropics south of the equator. At the shore of this primeval ocean various sediments of the Old Red Continent mingled with silt from the sea. Fine clay, sand, mussels, coral-reef s ... The differences of these sediments that formed our slate in millions of years explain the fascinating diversity of taste in our todays wines. Only one grape variety is capable to revive this slate in such a fascinating way: Riesling. This old variety has an unbelievable vitality with which it withstands cold, rain, heat and dryness and forms roots up to 12m deep into the rock to sublimate that taste of slate into the grapes, of course, only, if we stick to the rules: Old vines, high density (we go up to 12,000 plants par hectar) and low yields. But then comes the real difficulty: a vinification with the attitude of a respectful accompanying with great patience and trust in the natural proces s ...

123 Germany | Rheingau

Name Weingut Johannishof, Johannes Eser Address Grund 63, 65366 Johannisberg eMail [email protected] Website www.weingut-johannishof.de Owner Johannes Eser Winemaker Johannes Eser Founded 1685 Size (ha/acres) 20/49 Production 11,000 (cases 12/ 75 0 ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 1 00%

Winemaking Philosophy

A broad range of tastes is produced by great variations of terroirs, the individualized viticulture and wine maturation that allows the different wines to reach their full taste potential. The focus lies in cultivating and accentuating the typical Riesling character of the wines. Also, each harvest produces specific flavors that are highlighted by carefully tending to the individuality of each vintage. The cool and humid cellars guarantee the best conditions for cultivation and maturation of the wines.

124 Germany | Mittelrhein

Name Weingut Toni Jost Address Oberstrasse 14, 55422 Bacharach eMail [email protected] Website www.tonijost.de Owner Cecilia & Peter Jost Winemaker Cecilia Jost Founded 1831 Size (ha/acres) 15/ 37 Production 8,000 (cases 12/ 75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 8 0%, Pinot Noir 15%, Pinot Blanc 5%

Winemaking Philosophy

We believe that wines of character are marked by their origins: the grapes come from terroirs which are unique as to their soil and microclimate. It is the task of the winemaker to underscore the special features of the terroir.

Our monopol vineyard site the Bacharacher Hahn is one of the best and most famous vineyards located directly on the banks of the Rhine.

The extremely long maturing time for the grapes, extending far into the autumn, gives the Riesling and Pinot noir grapes that grow here in these northern wine growing areas of Germany their particular character. The slow maturing process under changing weather conditions, as well as the constant alternation between warm days and cool nights as autumn approaches, intensify the aroma and heighten the wine's fruitiness.

125 Germany | Rheinhessen

Name Weingut Keller Address Bahnhofstraße 1, 67592 Flörsheim-Dalsheim eMail [email protected] Website www.keller-wein.de Owner Klaus Peter Keller Winemaker Klaus Peter Keller Founded 1789 Size (ha/acres) 16/40 Production 9,000 (cases 12/75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 8 0%, others 2 0%

Winemaking Philosophy

The Keller winery is a pure family-run winery. 4 Keller generations are living under one roof and correspond in the idea of producing great wines mainly from the Riesling grape.

Our Riesling vineyards are mainly located on the south eastern facing slopes of the Dalsheimer Hubacker and the Westhofen hills with AbtsE, Morstein and Kirchspiel. The Hubacker vineyard belongs to the family since 1789. It’s skeleton rich soil is a mixture of loess loam and limestone which reduces the yield to a maxi - mum of 6 to 7 tons of grapes per hectare. With the use of greencover (clover, cabbage) we keep undesirable weeds down, it protects against erosion and produces humus.

The long vegetation period in Germany has an important influence on cha - racter and taste of wines. Therefore the Riesling harvest at the Keller winery starts always very late - often in the first November days - to gain complexity. For our winery the precondition to produce outstanding wines is always the vineyard- therefore all the work done from the pressing to the bottling can only maintain quality but not improve it.

126 Germany | Rheingau

Name Weingut August Kesseler Address Lorcher Straße 16, 65385 Assmannshausen eMail [email protected] Website www.august-kesseler.de Owner August Kesseler Winemaker Max Himstedt Founded 1977 Size (ha/acres) 22/54 Production 10,000 (cases 12 /75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 70 %, Pinot Noir 3 0%

Winemaking Philosophy

To get the terroir in the bottl e!

127 Germany | Mosel

Name Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Address Schloss Marienlay, 543 17 Morscheid eMail [email protected] Website www.kesselstatt.com Owner Günther Reh Family Winemaker Wolfgang Mertes Founded 1349 Size (ha/acres) 36/ 89 Production 18,000 (cases 12 /75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 100 %

Winemaking Philosophy

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt’s vineyards are most valuable asset. With 12 ha (30 acres) each in the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer, the estate has a most extra - ordinary spectrum of top vineyards in all three valleys in the region.

Annegret Reh-Gartner highly esteems the mineral-rich, filigree style so typical of the wines of all three river valleys. She is thoroughly convinced that no other region can compete with this delicacy and mineral character. For years she has also strived with heart and soul to produce top-quality, not only fruity but dry wines, too with ageing potential. Particularly with the climate changes in recent years, the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer valleys have the potential to produce excellent dry wines whose brilliance lies not in their alcohol content, but in their elegance and mineral structure.

Thanks to the commitment of all employees, Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt produces Riesling wines that are on a par with the finest wines of the world.

128 Germany | Rheingau

Name Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Address Kloster Eberbach, 65346 Eltville eMail [email protected] Website www.kloster-eberbach.de Owner Federal State of Hesse Estate Manager Dieter Greiner Winemaker Ralf Bengel & Bernd Kutschick Founded 1136 Size (ha/acres) 247 /610 Production 190,000 (cases 12 /75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 80%, Pinot Noir 15 %, others 5%

Winemaking Philosophy

Kloster Eberbach cultivates the finest and most individual vineyards in the Rheingau and in the Hessische Bergstrasse. Over 5 0% of the first class vine yards in the first vineyard classification map from 1867 are still owned by Kloster Eberbach. We aim every year express the individual character of these vineyards. Therefore we interfere as little as possible in our gravitiy flow wineries using C O²-controlled fermentation in stainless steel as well as traditional wooden cask fermentation & ageing for white wines. The legendary Pinot Noirs are vinified in classic open fermenters and stay up to 24 month in barrels (22 5–1,20 0 Liters).

129 Germany | Rheingau

Name Weingu t Baron Knyphausen Address Erbacher Straße 28, 65346 Eltville-Erbach eMail [email protected] Website www.baron-knyphausen.de Owner Grapevault Wine Fund No.1 Gerko Freiherr zu Knyphausen Winemaker Rainer Rüttiger Founded 1818 Size (ha/acres) 24/ 59 Production 11,000 (cases 12/75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 85%, Pinot Noir 10 %, others 5%

Winemaking Philosophy

The Baron Knyphausen Wine Estate is dedicated to produce powerful wines with great harmony and full of character. We are not focused on a dry style without compromises – although some of our wines are – but on maximum balance. Our intention is to work out the intrinsic character of every single vineyard. Therefore, we are using neutral yeasts, no cool temperatures during fermentation, and refuse, in strong contrast to some popular opinions, spon - taneous fermentation. For some of our ultrapremium wines, like the Imperial Yellow and the Constitutional Green, we use barrels – in 20 13 even new, medium toasted 5 00l barriques.

130 Germany | Rheinhessen

Name Weingut Kühling-Gillot Address Oelmühlstraße 25, 55294 Bodenheim eMail [email protected] Website www.kuehling-gillot.de Owner Carolin Spanier-Gillot & H .O. Spanier Winemaker H.O. Spanier Founded 19th century Size (ha/acres) 15 /62 Production 8,500 (cases 12/75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 65%, Pinot Noir 20%, others 15%

Winemaking Philosophy

Kühling-Gillot is a business steeped in tradition, in the best sense of the word. Family provides a solid foundation, guarantees continuity, and supplies new impulses with each generation. This family has been involved in vini- culture since the 19th century. Over the years, the estate has acquired some of the best sites in Germany on the Red Cliff in Nackenheim and Nierstein and added an architectural gem: its unique park and Art Deco pavilion, and stylish reception hall, tasting room, and vinothek . The philosophy is marked by controlled laissez faire . Great wines need time, and this is guaranteed by organic winemaking, traditional fermentation and maturation processes in large, wooden barrels. Tradition is not an end in itself, rather a standard of quality.

131 Germany | Rheingau

Name Weingut Künstler Address Geheimrat-Hummel-Platz 1a, 65239 Hochheim eMail [email protected] Website www.weingut-kuenstler.de Owner Gunter Künstler Winemaker Gunter Künstler & Rolf Schregel Founded 1648 Size (ha/acres) 42/103 Production 25,000 (cases 12/750 ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 8 0%, Pinot Noir 12%, others 8%

Winemaking Philosophy

Our Riesling grapes are hand-picked. Processing the fermentation on the skin at constantly low temperature supports microbiological stabilisation while being extremely gentle on the grapes. State-of-the-art wine presses process the harvested grapes as gentle as possible. Depending on the pro - venance and quality, the must is either processed in steel tanks or in the tra - ditional oak casks focussing slow and controlled fermentation. Temperature as well as the reduction of grape sugar are regularly controlled and moni - tored. Low-temperature fermentation allows the aromas to unfold their full potential. After the fermentation which lasts for about six to eight weeks, the wines are drawn off and continue to settle on the lees (sur lie). Thus, the wine makes its way up to a powerful, well-balanced, rich in extract, terroir- driven and vivid representative with an excellent ageing potential.

When making red wine, we rely on the traditional fermentation on skin in closed fermentation vats. During the fermentation process, the grape skin cap is regularly punched down to extract most of the colour and flavour. Moreover, the grape seeds are systematically removed from the individual lots to make the wine smoother and to avoid harsh tannins. The wines undergo in either traditional mature oak casks (1,200 litres) or Barrique casks (225 litres) allowing them to age for about 12 months.

132 Germany | Rheingau

Name Weingut Langwerth von Simmern Address Kirchgasse 6, 65343 Eltville am Rhein eMail [email protected] Website www.weingut-langwerth-von-simmern.de Owner Georg R. Freiherr Langwerth von Simmern Winemaker Uwe Lex Founded 1464 Size (ha/acres) 30/74 Production 15,000 (cases 12/75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 9 9%, others 1%

Winemaking Philosophy

Our Wine-Estate is one of the oldest in a direct line of ownership winery in the Rheingau with the best and most famous vineyards the area since 1464. To produce wine is a philosophy. Therefore we are making wine as a quality oriented state with strictly controlled, environment-friendly viti- culture in accordance with the VDP. We are one of the oldest members of the prestigious VDP, the oldest association of leading estates in Germany, demanding rigid standards of quality control and strict yield limitation of its high -ranking affiliated estates.

Langwerth von Simmern Wines have received many awards and are mentio - ned in many American and German Publications. “Wine & Spirits”, “Wine Spectato r”, „Washington Post“, „San Fransisco Chronike l“, „Feinschmecker”, „Vinum“ etc.

133 Germany | Rheingau

Name Weingut Leitz Address Theodor -Heuss -Str. 5, 65385 Rüdesheim eMail [email protected] Website www.leitz-wein.de Owner Johannes Leitz Winemaker Johannes Leitz Founded historically 1744, refounded by Johannes Leitz in 1985 Size (ha/acres) 43/106 Production 35,000 (cases 12/75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 9 8%, Pinot Noir 2%

Winemaking Philosophy

We focus on making Riesling and believe that terroir matters. This is why Weingut Leitz concentrates on transporting the terroir from the specific site to the bottle. Nescessary for this is the production of the best possible grapes.

The unique “Rüdesheimer Berg” (Rüdesheim Mountain) creates the perfect conditions for terroir driven Rheingau Riesling.

134 Germany | Mosel

Name Weingut Dr. Loosen Address St. Johannishof, 54470 Bernkastel eMail [email protected] Website www.drloosen.com Owner Ernst F. Loosen Winemaker Bernhard Schug Founded 1988 Size (ha/acres) 36/ 89 Production 25,000 (cases 12 / 75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 9 5%, Pinot Blanc 5%

Winemaking Philosophy

"A great wine begins in your hea d" Ernst F. Loosen

What has impressed me most about the great wines of the world – aside from the immense pleasure of drinking the m–is the deeply rooted, fiercely held philosophies of the people who create them. The great winemakers I have met invariably possess a clear concept in their minds –before the first grape is picked – of what their wines should be. It’s a vision that places terroir over technology, and grape quality over quantity. Their wines are great because they share a dedication to producing intense, concentrated wines that proudly proclaim their heritage.

This is the level of winemaking that we pursue at our two estates: Dr. Loosen on the Mosel and Villa Wolf in the Pfalz. Our goal is to make wines that are delicious to drink and true to their roots. When I drink a Riesling from a grand cru vineyard like Wehlener Sonnenuhr , I want to smell the blue slate soil that nourishes the fruit. I want to taste the depth of the old vines. I want to experience the character of the vintage. I want authenticity; without it, a wine is simply another beverage.

Of course, the measure of any great wine is not where it begins, but where it ends — in your glass. I hope you enjoy drinking the wines as much as we have enjoyed making them.

135 Germany | Rheingau

Name Weingut G.H. von MUMM Address Am Erntebringer 9a, 65366 Johannisberg eMail [email protected] Website www.mumm.de Owner Weingut G . H. von Mumm Winemaker Christian Witte Founded 1822 Size (ha/acres) 65/161 Production 60,000 (cases 12/ 75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 8 3%, Pinot Noir 12 %, Pinot Blanc 5%

Winemaking Philosophy

When traditions are practiced and appreciated for so long, there is a reason: We foster and revitalize them by combining long-term experience with modern competence. In doing so, we develop something new along the way, which usually sets a precedent.

136 Germany | Rheingau

Name Weingut Prinz Address Im Flachsgarten 5, 65375 Hallgarten eMail [email protected] Website www.prinz-wein.de Owner Sabine & Fred Prinz Winemaker Fred Prinz Founded 1991 Size (ha/acres) 8/ 20 Production 4,500 (cases 12/75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 9 1%, Pinot Noir 6%, Sauvignon Blanc 3%

Winemaking Philosophy

We feel that the vineyard sets the stage for good and individual wine. Wine originates in the vineyard, and the vineyard leaves its mark on a wine’s individual personality. We are convinced that in conjunction with soil and microclimate, the wine-growers signature must also be clearly recognizable.

137 Germany | Rheingau

Name Weingut Prinz von Hessen Address Grund 1, 65366 Johannisberg eMail [email protected] Website www.prinz-von-hessen.de Owner Hessische Hausstiftung Kronberg i . Ts., SKH Donatus Landgraf von Hessen Winemaker Dr. Clemens Kiefer & Sascha Huber Founded 1957 Size (ha/acres) 38/ 94 Production 20,000 (cases 12/75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 94%, others 6%

Winemaking Philosophy

“It is and has always been a tremendous challenge to balance 8 00 years of family tradition against the expectations of the modern wine world, and to promote synergy between these two aspects,” explains Donatus Landgraf von Hessen.

This interplay between 'classic and modern' is reflected in all aspects of the estate's work. The resulting wines present a lively, racy and fresh modern style, while the estate maintains an unerring dedication to Riesling that demonstrates the true depth of their Rheingau roots.

138 Germany | Pfalz

Name Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz Address Weinstraße 54, 76833 Siebeldingen eMail [email protected] Website www.oekonomierat-rebholz.de Owner Hansjörg Rebholz Winemaker Hansjörg Rebholz Founded 16th century Size (ha/acres) 22/54 Production 10,000 (cases 12/750ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 45%, Pinot 40%, others 15%

Winemaking Philosophy

The key idea is the production of “Nature Wines”. This idea originates from the 4 0s when Ökonomierat Eduard Rebholz decided to produce unique and independent wines beyond the mainstream. A philosophy which is still practised today: The wines are biodynamically produced, never deacidified or chaptalized. The wines reflect the vintage and the soil. They are “Typical Rebholz”

139 Germany | Rheingau

Name Domäne Schloss Johannisberg Address Schloss Johannisberg, 65366 Geisenheim eMail [email protected] Website www.schloss-johannisberg.de Owner Fürst von Metternic h – Winneburgsche Domäne – Schloss Johannisberg GbR. Winemaker Christian Witte Founded 11 th Century Siz e (ha/acres) 35/ 86 Production 20,000 (cases 12/75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 100 %

Winemaking Philosophy

Great wines don’t happen by chance. They are the results of an ideal inter - play of soil, grape variety and climate. The winegrower must bear these factors, as well as innovation, in mind in order to produce authentic wines. For nearly 1 ,200 years viticulture at Schloss Johannisberg has embraced these realities as part of an ope n- minded tradition. This guarantees the inimitably elegant and aromatic character of our Rieslings.

140 Germany | Mosel

Name Weingut Schloss Lieser Address Am Markt 1, 54470 Lieser eMail [email protected] Website www.weingut-schloss-lieser.de Owner Thomas & Ute Haag Winemaker Thomas Haag Founded bought in 1997 Size (ha/acres) 17/ 42 Production 9,000 (cases 12/75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 100 %

Winemaking Philosophy

We only cultivate Riesling and respect always the pure terroir style of our Grosse Lage vineyards Lieser Niederberg Helden, Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr and Brauneberger Juffer.

The vineyards are all facing south or south west, have a typical blue slate soil and a slope up to 75%.

We produce extremely clear, precise , lean and elegant wines of great finesse and with an almost fragile structure and at the same time very complex and with an impressive expression of their origins.

141 Germany | Rheingau

Name Wein- und Sektgut F. B. Schönleber Address Obere Roppelsgasse 1 65375 Oestrich-Winkel eMail [email protected] Website www.fb-schoenleber.de Owner Bernd & Ralf Schönleber Winemaker Bernd Schönleber Founded 1783 Size (ha/acres) 11/27 Production 7,000 (cases 12/750 ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 94%, Pinot Noir 6%

Winemaking Philosophy

For a family-owned winery great wines start with growing up in the vine- yards. We harvest as late as possible with the aim to keep the grapes ripe and healthy. Once in the cellar, we do as little as possible, however, everything needed to ensure the unique quality of our wines. We love to use the Riesling’s versatility: From classic dry wines up to the highest quality of sweet wines you have ever tasted.

Riesling is like a diva: It demands experience and sensitivity.

142 Germany | Rheingau

Name Weingut Josef Spreitzer Address Rheingaustraße 86, 65375 Oestrich-Winkel eMail [email protected] Website www.weingut-spreitzer.de Owner Bernd & Andreas Spreitzer Winemaker Andreas Spreitzer Founded 1641 Size (ha/acres) 21 /52 Production 11,500 (cases 12/75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 9 7%, Pinot Noir 3%

Winemaking Philosophy

For us, winemaking is philosophy and a zest for life at the same time. We operate from the principle that the consumer experience and their degree of indulgence when tasting our wines is a result of winemaking craftsmanship being perfectly blended well with nature.

Our wines are elegant and remarkable at the same time – that’s one of our most important aims: to make wines, that bring pleasure and joy and to keep our ancestors inheritance since 1641.

143 Germany | Rheinhessen

Name Weingut St. Antony Address Wilhemstraße 4, 55283 Nierstein eMail [email protected] Website www.st-antony.de Owner Family Meyer Winemaker Felix Peters Founded 1920 Size (ha/acres) 45/111 Production 20,000 (cases 12/ 750 ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 60%, Blaufränkisch 12%, Pinot Noir 12 %, others 16 %

Winemaking Philosophy

Each of our wines should offer a unique set of characteristics that speaks to people. My sometimes unconventional approach to the vineyard, vines, and varietals has been significantly influenced, I believe, by a complex set of factors. These include a non-traditional background in the industry, with no family winegrowing estate to draw upon, and the years I spent as both an apprentice and journeyman. Great wines only emerge when you doggedly chase a highly original idea with care, courage and perseverance.

I have but one singular goal: To use Riesling, Blaufränkisch and Pinot Noir wines to show the world the magnificent and irreplaceable nature of the estate and vineyards of St. Antony.

144 Germany | Mosel

Name Weingut St. Urbans-Hof Address Urbanusstraße 16, 54340 Leiwen eMail [email protected] Website www.urbans-hof.com Owner Nik Weis Winemaker Rudolf Hoffmann Founded 1947 Size (ha/acres) 28/ 69 Production 20,000 (cases 12/ 750 ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 1 00%

Winemaking Philosophy

The Estate produces year after year Rieslings that capture the individual terroirs of the estate’s vineyard sites. Together with his vineyard Manager Hermann Jostock, Nik works the vineyards according to the principle that every wine must be a true expression of its origin. In Nik words, “the highest quality wines are a result of hard work during an entire year. Careful soil cultivation, precise shoot positioning, leaf thinning, crop reduction, hand- pikking and late harvesting at all.“

145 Germany | Nahe

Name Weingut TESCH Address Naheweinstraße 99 55450 Langenlonsheim eMail [email protected] Website www.weingut-tesch.de Owner Dr. Martin Tesch Winemaker Dr. Martin Tesch Founded 1723 Size (ha/acres) 21 /52 Production 13, 000 (cases 12 /75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 8 5%, Pinot Noir 8%, Pinot Blanc 7%

Winemaking Philosophy

TESCH has proven that an old winery can very well successfully walk down a new path. The selection is small, tight and clearly laid-out. All TESCH wines are distinct and dry. Only three different grapes are grown: Riesling, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. All bottles are outfitted with practical screw tops and the design has been award-winning. Eco-friendly wine- growing, extensive care for the vineyard and hand harvesting of the grapes for the wines is a matter of the heart for TESCH .

146 Germany | Mosel

Name Weingut Van Volxem Address Dehenstraße 2, 54459 Wiltingen eMail [email protected] Website www.vanvolxem.com Owner Roman Niewodniczanski Winemaker Dominik Völk Founded 2000 Size (ha/acres) 62/154 Production 25,000 (cases 12/75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 9 7%, Pinot Blanc 3 %

Winemaking Philosophy

As a former domaine of the 18th century Luxembourg Jesuit Order, this estate once –and now again –possessed parcels in the heart of the most famous vine - yards in Wiltingen -Braunfels, Klosterberg, Gottesfuß, and the aforementioned Scharzhofberg as well as in the best sites of Kanzem and Wawern. The goal has been to strive for the highest quality and so returning Van Volxem to its for - mer glory. From the best slate vineyards of the Saar, and with the help of low yields averaging just 4 0hl/ ha, emerge finely textured, fruity, and elegant wines showing a clear terroir profile, enormous depth, and ageing potential. The goal for the handcrafted wines is to retain the characteristics from each specific vineyard in the bottle. Upon beginning the harvest usually in late October, the fully ripe grapes are selectively handpicked in uo to three passes. After a care - ful crushing and short maceration followed by a gentle pressing – partly with modern basket presses – the must vinifies very slowly in mainly tradi tional wooden Fuder casks along with stainless-steel tanks. In order to keep the uni - que style of each vineyard, only indigenous yeasts are used. With the excepti - on of the botrytized specialities, Van Volxem’s wines fall within the spec trum referred to as “harmoniously dry,” an ideal partner with many aromatic dishes.

Thanks to Van Volxem's low yields and late harvests, ripeness levels in the much-desired Spätlese and Auslese categories are commonplace rather than exceptions. As during the time around 1900 , Prädikat designations are avoided for the wines.

147 Germany | Rheinhessen

Name Weingut Wagner Stempel Address Woellsteiner Straße 10, 55599 Siefersheim eMail [email protected] Website www.wagner-stempel.de Owner Daniel Wagner Winemaker Daniel Wagner Founded 1845 Size (ha/acres) 20/ 49 Production 14,000 (cases 12/750 ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 5 0%, Pinot Blanc 2 5%, Silvaner 10 %, Pinot Noir 10 %, others 5%

Winemaking Philosophy

The Wagner family has been involved in wine production now for nine gene - rations, and since the early Nineties Daniel Wagner is responsible for the vineyards and the cellar. Since then, he has concentrated on the classical grape varieties such as Silvaner, Pinot Blanc and more especially Riesling, and converted to organic production methods.

Far-reaching measures are implemented to reduce yields. Manual pruning and canopy management as well as selective hand-picking in the autumn are corner-posts of his philosophy of wine production, which is based on the principle that outstanding wines are made in the vineyard.

148 Germany | Rheingau & Mosel

Name Weingüter Wegeler Address Friedensplatz 9-11, 65375 Oestrich-Winkel eMail [email protected] Website www.wegeler.com Owner Family Wegeler-Drieseberg Winemaker Michael Burgdorf & Norbert Breit Founded 1882 Size (ha/acres) Rheingau 4 5/11 1, Mosel 14 /35 Production 40,000 (cases 12/75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 100 %

Winemaking Philosophy

"Our philosophy is quality"

Julius Wegeler coined this mission statement back in 1882 – and despite of all fashions, marketing strategies or market restrictions, it has never been modified to this day. Perio d!

We produce our wines ourselves, mature them without exception in our own cellars, and bottle them in our own bottling plants in the estates. In this way, we monitor the chain of production, from planting the vineyard to packaging the bottles.

Our labels say "Weingüter" (estates) and "Gutsabfüllung" (estate-bottled ) to prove that we only sell self-produced wines.

This is something that we vouch fo r!

149 Germany | Rheingau

Name Weingut Robert Weil Address Mühlberg 5, 65399 Kiedrich eMail [email protected] Website www.weingut-robert-weil.com Owner Suntory Ltd. / Wilhelm Weil Winemaker Wilhelm Weil Founded 1875 Size (ha/acres) 90/ 222 Production 55,000 (cases 12/75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 100 %

Winemaking Philosophy

High-quality vineyards are indispensable to producing first-class Riesling wines. It is a challenge to exploit the natural potential of the best sites.

The goal is to reap the finest fruit possible to make Riesling wines of every Prädikat level, including Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese – a goal that has been realized every year without exception since the 1989 vintage. The estate’s dedication to Riesling since 1875 has led numerous observes of the international wine world to regard Weingut Robert Weil, with its “château characte r”, as a worldwide symbol of German Riesling culture.

150 Germany | Pfalz

Name Weingut von Winning Address Weinstraße 10, 67 146 Deidesheim eMail [email protected] Website www.von-winning.de Owner Jana Niederberger Estate Manager Stephan Attmann Winemaker Kurt Rathgeber Founded 1849 Size (ha/acres) 46/114 Production 32,000 (cases 12/ 75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 8 5%, others 15 %

Winemaking Philosophy

Respectful cooperation with nature, no use of herbicides and synthetical fertilizers in the vineyard, traditional methods in vineyard and cellar, fermen - tation in oak barrels of different sizes . No interference with the wine’s inner structure and maximum deference for this precious natural produc t!

151 Germany | Franken

Name Weingut Hans Wirsching Address Ludwigstraße 16, 97346 Iphofen eMail [email protected] Website www.wirsching.de Owner Dr. Heinrich Wirsching & Family Winemaker Werner Probst Founded 1630 Size (ha/acres) 85/ 210 Production 50,000 (cases 12 /75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 23%, Silvaner 4 2%, others 3 5%

Winemaking Philosophy

The most important step for making great wine starts in the vineyard. This is why at Wirsching our top priority is the attention and care that underlines our affinity with nature and the resultant integrated viticulture we practice. Old vines with their deep, expansive root systems transfer lots of minerals from the soil to the grapes. Old vines and low yields form the basis for the cellar master’s art to produce our Great Growths or “Große Gewächse”. These great wines remind the palate to their heritage while pointing to the future with their potential for aging.

152 Germany | Rheinhessen

Name Weingut Wittmann Address Mainzer Straß e 19, 67593 Westhofen eMail [email protected] Website www.wittmannweingut.com Owner Philipp Wittmann Winemaker Philipp Wittmann Founded 1663 Size (ha/acres) 25/62 Production 15, 000 (cases 12/ 75 0ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 6 5%, Burgundy varieties 15 %, Silvaner 10 %, others 10 %

Winemaking Philosophy

Since the early 1990s the Wittmann family has emerged as one of the finest Riesling producers in Germany.

The vines have been cultivated organically (Naturland-certified) since 1 990 and biodynamically (Demeter-certified) since 2004 .

Philipp Wittmann decided to go biodynamic mainly for quality reasons, to reflect the origin of his wines in the most authentic way possible. So he aims for ripe but not overripe, aromatically intense, healthy grapes that are not at all affected by botrytis.

In the vineyards, no herbicides, no fungicides and no chemical fertilizers have been used for more than 20 years.

With the biodynamic approach, Wittmann aims for natural balance in his vine yards, a slower ripening process and physiologically ripe grapes with lower suga r levels but intense mineral flavours.

153 Germany | Mosel

Name Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Address Heckingstraß e 20, 54439 Saarburg eMail [email protected] Website www.zilliken-vdp.de Owner Hans-Joachim Zilliken Winemaker Hans-Joachim Zilliken Founded 1742 Size (ha/acres) 11 / 27 Production 6,000 (cases 12/ 75 0 ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 100 %

Winemaking Philosophy

Our goal is a maximum of finesse by the lightest possible impression a wine can offer.

Our wines are fermented and matured in neutral 1,00 0l German oak barrels. The deep cellars we own are keeping a constant and optimal temperature as a result of nearly 1 00% humidity. So evaporation or extra oxidation are prevented.

Pronounced freshness through minerality, acidity, notes of citrus, mint and chamomile is, for us, the key to crafting wines with great ageing potential. Our steep, south facing Rausch vineyard is situated on a bedrock of stony, weathered slate, providing us with optimal conditions to produce lively, vivid and classic Saar Rieslings.

Our promise: no matter the concentration, our wines will never lose their elegance or charm.

154 Germany | Sachsen

Name Weingut Klaus Zimmerling Address Bergweg 2 7 01326 Dresden-Pillnitz eMail [email protected] Website www.weingut-zimmerling.de Owner Klaus Zimmerling Winemaker Klaus Zimmerling Founded 1992 Size (ha/acres) 4/10 Production 1,300 (cases 12/ 75 0 ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 40%, others 60%

Winemaking Philosophy

Ecological cultivation (without certification) Skin contact (maceration) Use of a basket press Bottling in May (after harvest) Lived alliance of art and wine

155 New Zealand | Central Otago

Name Felton Road Address Felton Road, Bannockburn, Central Otago eMail [email protected] Website www.feltonroad.com Owner Nigel Greening Winemaker Blair Walter Founded 1991 Size (ha/acres) 35/86 Production 12,000 (cases 12/ 75 0 ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 10 %, Chardonnay 20%, Pinot Noir 70 %

Winemaking Philosophy

Demeter certified viticulture and very simple “hands off” winemaking com - bine to make our wines a statement of place not style.

Wines are all fermented using indigenous yeasts, and avoid the addition of any additives with the exception of Sulphur. Rieslings are hand harvest, whole bunch pressed, wild ferment without settling the must in stainless steel, Ferment is stopped by chilling, 6 months on lees prior to bottling. Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs are produced without fining or filtration.

156 New Zealand | Marlborough

Name Framingham Wines Ltd Address 19 Conders Bend Road, Renwick, Marlborough eMail [email protected] Website www.framingham.co.nz Owner Sogrape Vinhos Winemaker Andrew Hedley Founded 1994 Size (ha/acres) 86/212 Production 26.000 (cases 12/ 75 0 ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 8%, Sauvigno n Blanc 75%, Pinot Noir 12%, others 5%

Winemaking Philosophy

Framingham’s estate vineyard was established at Conders Bend in Marlborough’s Wairau valley in 1980, with approximately 17 acres of Riesling planted on resistant rootstock on stony, old riverbed soils. Riesling was augmented with other varietals in later years. Today, Framingham is taking fruit from these 30-odd years old vines and releasing a diverse range of Riesling wines, unashamedly inspired by Germanic styles which rely on the vibrant natural acidity Marlborough’s temperate climate provides. Wines under the Framingham range represent fruit purity, whereas the F-Series provides a home for more complex, textural examples, as well as the extremely small run vintage specific wines that we may not be able to make every year.

157 Slovakia

Name Château Belá Address Belá 1, 943 53 Belá eMail [email protected] Website www. chateau-bela.com Owner Gräfin von Krockow & Egon Müller Winemaker Miroslav Petrech Founded 2001 Size (ha/acres) 6/15 Production 2,000 (cases 12/ 75 0ml -btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling (+ Cabernet Sauvignon)

Winemaking Philosophy

Riesling, limestone soil and the almost continental climate of the Slovakian Danube valley produce a wine of unique character.

158 USA | Michigan

Name Chateau Grand Traverse Address 12239 Center Road, Traverse City, Michigan, US A- 49686 eMail [email protected] Website www.cgtwines.com Owner O’Keefe Family Winemaker Bernd Croissant & Sea n O’Keefe Founded 1974 Size (ha/acres) total 92 /227 (estate 5 0/124) Production 80,000 vintage, 40,000 non-vintage (cases 12 /75 0ml -btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 67%, White Varieties 20%, 13% Red Varieties

Winemaking Philosophy

Edward O’Keefe founded Chateau Grand Traverse in 1974 with the aim of producing world class Riesling on the Old Mission Peninsula in Northern Michigan, USA. Our family winery has grown and diversified over the years and now produces several tiers of wines that each has its own winegrowing and winemaking philosophy.

For the CGT Eclectic wines presented at this symposium, we strive our very best to keep the “winemaking” to the very minimum in order to let the beauty of our peninsula and the unique character of each vintage reveal themselves. There’s no fixed recipe, and frankly we’re still learning what’s ideal for our relatively young winegrowing region. What is certain is that our most important task is in carefully tending our vineyards to produce the most flavorful, balanced fruit; everything else follows.

159 USA | Washington (Columbia Valley)

Name Chateau Ste. Michelle Address 14111 NE 145 th Street, Woodinville, Washington 98072 eMail [email protected] Website www.ste-michelle.com Owner Ste. Michelle Wine Estates Winemaker Bob Bertheau Founded 1934 Size (ha/acres) 186 2/4600 Production 2.752.500 (cases 12 /75 0ml -btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Merlot, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah

Winemaking Philosophy

My winemaking goal is to bring out the varietal character and regional expression in Washington State reds which have amazing depth and concentration due to our climate, soil and diurnal temperature fluctuations. Gentle handling, careful extraction techniques and proper cellar aging all play a key role in harnessing the power of Washington red fruit. On the white side, we have found great new places to grow Riesling and other white varieties for our cooler, more “mineral" style that we strive for in our white wines.

160 USA | Finger Lakes

Name Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars Address 9224 State Route 414, Lodi, NY, USA 14860 eMail [email protected] Website lamoreauxwine.com Owner Mark Wagner, Josh Wig Winemaker Mark Wagner, Colin Grant Founded Winery in 1990, Vineyards planted on the property in the late 1800’s Size (ha/acres) 42/105 Production 14,000 (cases 12 /75 0ml -btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 30%, Chardonnay 15 %, Cabernet Franc 10 %, others 4 5%

Winemaking Philosophy

By utilizing multiple clones, rootstocks and soil types, we are able to select for and effectively capture the essence of every growing season in each of our 20 vineyard blocks. Our 10 0% estate grown fruit is the key to our consistency in the wine cellar. Delivering grapes to the winery at the peak of ripeness, and processing them within minutes of harvest, allows for the perfect preservation of each of our varietals with minimum intervention. Additionally, our 30,000 gallons of stainless steel tanks and 24,000 gallons of oak barrels allow us to keep each lot separate to provide for maximum vineyard expression and complexity in each of our wines.

161 USA | Finger Lakes

Name Red Newt Cellars Address 3675 Tichenor Road, Hector , New York State 14841 eMail [email protected] Website www.rednewt.com Owner David Whiting Winemaker James Russell Founded 1998 Size (ha/acres) 13/ 32 Production 18,000 (cases 12/ 750 ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 75%, Gewurztraminer 10 %, others 15 %

Winemaking Philosophy

At Red Newt Cellars our focus is creating Finger Lakes expressions of aromatic white grapes, with a particular emphasis on Riesling. Working with several unique vineyards on Seneca Lake, we vinify each block individually to purely express its character. Thus, from harvest date, to processing decisions, to indigenous or cultured yeast, and beyond, we make a range of styles tailored to each site. We take pride in making a series of single vineyard and single block wines to showcase this, as well as classic wines for everyday consumption.

162 USA | Napa

Name Trefethen Family Vineyards Address 1160 Oak Knoll Avenue, Napa, CA 94558 eMail [email protected] Website www.trefethen.com Owner The Trefethen Family Winemaker Zeke Neeley Founded 1968 Size (ha/acres) 24 3/600 Production 60,000 (cases 12/ 750 ml-btls.) Grape Varieties Riesling 3%, others 9 7%

Winemaking Philosophy

Trefethen Family Vineyards produces a diverse range of award-winning varietal, blended and reserve wines – all from our Napa Valley estate – exhibiting the classic hallmarks of fine wine quality: richness with elegance, concentration with finesse, complexity with harmony, and sophistication with approachability. Reflecting both the relatively cool climate of our Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley estate vineyard and the Trefethen famil y’s preference for balanced wines, this classic style dovetails perfectly with the growing movement of connoisseurs in the United States away from wines of unbridled alcohol and ripeness toward wines of greater finesse and food-friendliness.

163 Upcoming Events

The Riesling Coalition brings events to Australia, North America and Germany on a rotating basis.

Melbourn e/ Australia 8, 9 and 10 February 2015

Seattl e/ USA Summer of 20 16 (exact dates TBD)

Rheinga u/ Germany May 20 17 (exact dates TBD)

164