Basic Tool Information and Safety

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Basic Tool Information And Safety

G.A. Blackburn © TINKERS CORNER 2010

Popular hand-powered types include: Ball-peen hammer, or mechanic's hammer Carpenter's hammers (used for nailing), such as the Framing hammer and the claw hammer The physics of hammering Construction hammers, including the Sledgehammer Hammer as a force amplifier Cross-peen hammer, or Warrington hammer A hammer is basically a force amplifier that works by Drilling hammer - a lightweight, short handled converting mechanical work into kinetic energy and back. sledgehammer In the swing that precedes each blow, a certain amount of Gavel, used by judges and presiding authorities in general kinetic energy gets stored in the hammer's head, equal to Geologist's hammer or rock pick Knife-edged hammer the length D of the swing times the force f produced by the Lump hammer, or club hammer muscles of the arm and by gravity. When the hammer Mallets, including the rubber hammer and strikes, the head gets stopped by an opposite force coming Dead blow hammer Soft-faced hammer from the target; which is equal and opposite to the force Splitting maul applied by the head to the target. If the target is a hard and Stonemason's hammer heavy object, or if it is resting on some sort of anvil, the Tinner's Hammer head can travel only a very short distance d before stopping. Upholstery hammer Since the stopping force F times that distance must be equal to the head's kinetic energy, it follows that F will be much greater than the original driving force f — roughly, by a factor D/d. In this way, great strength is not needed to produce a force strong enough to bend steel, or crack the hardest stone.

Effect of the head's mass The amount of energy delivered to the target by the hammer-blow is equivalent to one half the mass of the head times the square of the head's speed at the time of impact While the energy delivered to the target increases linearly with mass, it increases geometrically with the speed (see the effect of the handle, below).

TINKERS CORNER SAFETY WITH A HAMMER Make sure the handle of the hammer fits tightly on the head.

Do not strike a hard steel surface with a steel hammer. This may cause small pieces of steel to fly and injure someone.

Always strike the surface squarely - avoid glancing blows.

Never strike any hammer with or against another hammer

Always wear safety goggles.

Discard a hammer with a chipped or Discard hammers with mushroomed cracked claws or eye face. Replace loose or cracked sections. handles

ALL ABOUT HAMMERS http://www.hammernet.com/safety.htm http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hammer HTI (Hand Tools Institute) Vaughan Manufacturing National Safety Council ISO (International Standards 3 Organization) SAW Cutting A saw is a tool that uses a hard blade or wire with an abrasive edge to cut through softer materials. The cutting edge of a saw is either a serrated blade or an abrasive. A saw may be worked by hand, or powered by steam, water, electricity or other power.

Hand saws Hand saw uses the blades thickness to remain stiff. The pull stroke also reduces the amount of stiffness required. Some examples are: Crosscut saw for making cuts perpendicular to the grain Rip saw for cutting along the grain Two-man saw for cutting large logs or trees Plywood saw fine-toothed blade to reduce tearing of plywood Diagram showing the teeth of a Veneer saw two edged saw with fine teeth used to cut saw blade when looking front-on. veneer The teeth protrude to the left and Hacksaw fine-toothed tempered blade under tension for right, so that the saw cut (kerf) is cutting metal, bone, and other hard materials. wider than the blade width. The term set describes how much the teeth protrude.

Mechanically powered saws Mechanically powered saws are different from hand saws in that the blade moves while the wood remains stationary. Circular blade saws Circular saw, used in industrial sawing of log and beams, typically found in sawmills – also name given to smaller hand-held saws Table saw, circular blade rising through a slot in a table. A smaller direct-drive versions can be set on a workbench is called workbench saws. If set on steel legs it is called a Contractor's Saws. A heavier version, which is more precise and more powerful and driven by multiple belts with an enclosed base stand is called a Cabinet saws. A new version, called a hybrid saw, has the lighter weight mechanism of a Contractor saw but with an enclosed base like the Cabinet saw. Radial arm saw is a versatile machine used mainly for cross-cutting. The blade is pulled on a guide arm through a piece of wood held stationary on the saw's table Rotary saw is used to make accurate cuts without the need for a pilot hole in wallboard, plywood, and other thin materials. It can be called a spiral cut saw or a "RotoZip". Electric miter saw, (also called chop saw, cut-off saw or power miter box) is used for making accurate cross cuts and miter cuts. The basic model has its circular blade fixed at a 90° angle to the vertical, a compound miter saw's blade can be adjusted to other angles. A sliding compound miter saw has a blade which can be pulled through the work similar to the action of a radial arm saw, which gives a greater capacity for cutting wider workpieces. Concrete saw, usually powered by an internal combustion engine and used with a Diamond Blade to cut concrete or asphalt pavement. Abrasive saw, which uses an abrasive disc for cutting rather than a toothed blade. Abrasive saws are used for cutting very hard materials, such as metal. Reciprocating blade saws Effect of the head's mass Jigsaw or saber saw (US) has a narrow blade for cutting irregular shapes. The term jigsaw was also commonly used for what is now called a scroll saw. Reciprocating saw or sabre saw (UK and Australia) use an action similar to a jigsaw. They are larger, more powerful and use a longer stroke with the blade parallel to the barrel. It is useful for demolition work or for cutting pipe, and is sometimes powered by compressed air. Scroll saw is a saw for making intricate curved cuts (scrolls). Dragsaw is used for bucking logs before the advent of the chainsaw. Sternal saw is used in surgery to open a patient's sternum. Continuous band Band saw, with motor-driven continuous band Chainsaw, motor-driven, for felling trees TINKERS CORNER

1 – Wear a Safety Mask and Goggles When you use a hand saw, there is always a risk of splinters flying. Sometimes the object being sawed may rebound and hit the person operating the hand saw. To protect your face and eyes, you must always wear a safety mask and eye protection. 2 – Use a Tool of the Right Size Hand saws are available in different sizes and capacities. Before you start using the hand saw, you must properly assess the stock in question. Avoid using hand saws that are too big or too small for the project. 3 – Inspect Hand Saw before Every Use Before you use a hand saw, inspect it thoroughly for any signs of damage. If the handle is loose, or the blade is bent or broken, or if there are missing blade teeth, you must not use the hand saw. Also ensure that no one else uses the tool by marking it as unsafe. 4 – Check Material for Knots or Nails Knots, metal pieces, nails and screws in the stock may damage the blade. It can also cause buckling of the hand saw, which can lead to injury. Avoid such situations by properly inspecting the stock beforehand. 5 – Never Test Sharpness with Hands You must never test the sharpness of a hand saw with your hand or any other part of your body. Doing so may result in cuts and injury. 6 – Start Slowly To prevent buckling and rebound of the hand saw, you must always start off slowly. Use long, even strokes to start cutting the material. 7 – Ensure that the Material is Kept Firmly in Place To avoid serious injury, it is crucial to hold the stock firmly in place. Use a vise or a clamp for this purpose if the object is really heavy or large. You can use your free hand to hold smaller objects, provided you wear thick gloves to protect your hand from the motion of the hand saw. You can also ask an accomplice to hold objects in place. 8 – Keep the Hand Saw Clean For the tool to operate properly, you must keep it clean at all times. Also inspect it for damage and have it repaired or replaced, as required. 9 –Store in a Safe Place You must store your hand saw in a safe, enclosed place. This will keep it away from the wrong people. Also, you must keep children away from the vicinity when you are operating a hand saw. 10 – Use Full Length Strokes Directed Away from Your Body For more stability and to get the best results, at each stroke, run the hand saw along the full length of its blade. Direct the tool away from your body and maintain a safe, comfortable distance at all times. Always wear safety goggles.

ALL ABOUT SAWS Read more: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAW http://www.doityourself.com/stry/10-hand- saw-safety-tips#ixzz1AdMmb7oM

HTI (Hand Tools Institute) 5 National Safety Council DRILL Cutting

A drill or drill motor is a tool fitted with a rotating cutting tool, usually a drill bit, used for drilling holes in various materials. The cutting tool is gripped by a chuck at one end of the drill and rotated while pressed against the target material. The tip of the cutting tool does the work of cutting into the target material. This may be slicing off thin shavings (twist drills or auger bits), grinding off small particles (oil drilling), crushing and removing pieces of the workpiece (SDS masonry drill), countersinking, counterboring, or other operations.

A drill is a tool with a rotating drill bit used to bore holes. The twist drill is most common form, and consists of a cylindrical metal rod with two helical flutes or grooves spiralling along its length. Straight flutes are also used. The drill bit is gripped by the chuck of the drill at one end, with the other end pressed against the target material and rotated. The earliest drills were probably bow drills. The tip of the drill bit does the work of cutting into the target material, slicing off thin shavings or grinding off small particles. Types This debris is carried up and away from the tip of the drill by the fluting, falling out of the helical grooves once it has been lifted clear of the hole. Lubricants and coolants (i.e. cutting fluid) are also sometimes used, with the fluting providing channels for these as Hand drill well. Power Drill Drill bits are available in many different materials: Steel bits are cheap, but they will dull quickly and may not work on harder wood. Drill Press High Speed Steel bits are stronger than steel and will last a little longer. Titanium bits cost more, but they will last much longer and are better for harder wood than steel bits. Carbide-tipped bits stay sharper through many projects and are good for cutting through very hard woods without splintering. Cobalt bits are the hardest bits available, for use in metals. They cost substantially more that other types, but they won't overheat.

General Purpose Bits Twist bits are good for general use. You can use these bits to drill into wood, light metals (like aluminum) and plastics. Saws and Augers If you need to cut out larger pieces of wood for your holes, then use an auger bit or a saw bit. The saw bit will drill holes ranging from ½ to 6 inches, and auger bits have flutes to aid in Effect of the head's mass removing any wood chips.

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The amount of energy delivered to the target by the hammer-blow is equivalent to one half the mass of the head times the square of the head's speed at the time of impact While the energy delivered to the target increases linearly with mass, it increases geometrically with the speed (see the effect of the handle, below). SAFETY WITH A DRILL Always wear safety goggles. Check for wires, pipes and lines Inspect your surroundings before using a drill. Make sure that the area that is free of live wires, which may cause severe bodily injury if hit. Be aware of electrical wires, plumbing pipes and gas lines. Wear protective gear Wear eye protection to guard against flying debris such as wood and a shattered drill bit. Avoid wearing loose clothing while drilling, as material can get bound up in the bit. Use appropriate drill and bit Select the appropriate drill and drill bit for the project and the material being drilled. If you use the wrong type of drill bit, it can break or bind, resulting in bodily injury. Also, keep your head away from the drilling area in case the drill swings out of control. Check for faulty parts Inspect the drill for faulty parts. Check the wires for any cuts or frays, and make sure that the plug is equipped with an electrical ground. Electrical housing cracks can cause the drill to break during usage. To avoid electric shock, never use an electrical drill in the rain or near water.

1. Own and wear safety glasses. 2. Do not wear loose fitting clothing. 3. Wear clothing that will cover and protect your body, but not get caught up in the moving parts of the drill. 4. Use a dust mask if needed. 5. Hearing protection never hurt anyone. 6. Loose fitting gloves might get caught by moving devices.

Proper Technique:

1. Maintain your drill and bits 2. Clamp and secure whatever your working on as a general rule. 3. Mark the center of the hole or use a center punch to mark it. Then place the drill in the center of the hole. 4. Predrill holes for woodscrews. 5. Start slowly and slowly increase speed. 6. Vary the pressure and don’t let the drill bind. 7. Don’t force the drill, let the machine do the work. 8. Slower speeds for thicker wood and high speed for metals. 9. Withdraw the bit often while drilling to remove chips. 10. Brush these away, blow on them and they could end up in your eyes. 11. Use a side handle and hold the drill firmly with both hands. 12. Take your time

Tip: Avoid splintering: Wood tends to splinter as the bit breaks through the opposite side of the work piece. This can be avoided by clamping cardboard to the back of the work piece.

ALL ABOUT DRILLS Read more: Drill Safety Rules | eHow.com http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/drill http://www.ehow.com/way_5196039_drill- safety-rules.html#ixzz1AdQAxPkk

HTI (Hand Tools Institute) 7 National Safety Council SCREWDRIVER Fasten

A screwdriver is a tool for driving screws or bolts with special slots, and sometimes for rotating other machine elements with the mating drive system. The screwdriver is made up of a head or tip, which engages with a screw, a mechanism to apply torque by rotating the tip, and some way to position and support the screwdriver. A typical hand screwdriver comprises an approximately cylindrical handle of a size and shape to be held by a human hand, and an axial shaft fixed to the handle, the tip of which is shaped to fit a particular type of screw. The handle and shaft allow the screwdriver to be positioned and supported and, when rotated, to apply torque. Screwdrivers are made in a variety of shapes, and the tip can be rotated manually or by an electric motor or other motor. A screw has a head with a contour such that an appropriate screwdriver tip can be engaged in it in such a way that the application of sufficient torque to the screwdriver will cause the screw to rotate. Types

Slot Phillips Torx

Effect of the head's mass

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Some other don’ts:

• Don’t use a screwdriver with rounded edges or tips – it may slip and damage the work. • Don’t use a screwdriver to check a storage battery or other electrical current. • Don’t use pliers on handle or shank of screwdriver to get extra turning power. A wrench should be used only on a square shank that is especially designed for the purpose. • Don’t expose a screwdriver blade to excessive heat. It may reduce hardness of the blade. • Don’t use a screwdriver with a split or broken handle. • Don’t redress a round blade tip unless you know how to do it correctly.

Screwdriver slippage can cause injury. Never hold the piece you’re working on in your hand while driving or loosening screws or bolts. Place it on a work surface and use a vice or a clamp to hold the material, whenever possible. Never carry a screwdriver in your pocket. The tip of the screwdriver is so sharp and hard that will hurt your body. 9 PLIERS Gripping

Pliers are a hand tool used to hold objects firmly, for bending, or physical compression. Generally, pliers consist of a pair of metal first- Types class levers joined at a fulcrum positioned closer to one end of the levers, creating short jaws on one side of the fulcrum, and longer Lineman handles on the other side. This arrangement creates a mechanical advantage, allowing the force of the hand's grip to be amplified and Flat Nose focused on an object with precision. The jaws can also be used to Needle Nose manipulate objects too small or unwieldy to be manipulated with the Locking fingers. There are many kinds of pliers made for various general and specific purposes.

Effect of the head's mass

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Pliers Safety Tips

• Pliers should not be used for cutting hardened wire unless specifically manufactured for this purpose.

• Never expose pliers to excessive heat. This may draw the temper and ruin the tool.

• Always cut at right angles. Never rock from side to side or bend the wire back and forth against the cutting edges.

• Don't bend stiff wire with light pliers. Needle nose pliers can be damaged by using the tips to bend too large a wire. Use a sturdier tool.

• Never use pliers as a hammer nor hammer on the handles. They may crack or break, or edges may be nicked by such abuse.

• Never extend the length of handles to secure greater leverage. Use a larger pair of pliers or a bolt cutter.

• Pliers should not be used on nuts or bolts. A wrench will do the job better and with less risk of damage to the fastener.

• Oil pliers occasionally. A drop of oil at the hinge will lengthen tool life and assure easy operation.

• Safety glasses or goggles should be worn when cutting wire, etc. to protect eyes.

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