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Teacher Trail 5 | Page 1 Teacher Trail 5 | Page 1 UPPER MALL TO HAMMERSMITH TERRACE Look at house number 15 on Upper Mall. There is a blue plaque on the wall. 1a. Who lived here? Thomas Cobden-Sanderson 1840-1922 1b. What did he set up here? Doves Bindery and Doves Press. The Doves Bindery (for binding books) was founded in 1893 and the Doves Press (for printing books) in 1900. After Cobden-Sanderson closed the press in 1916 he threw the type (which made printing blocks) into the river to prevent its use by anyone else. Early 18th century house. Listed Grade II. To the left of the door there is a stone plaque which says the Doves Bindery and the Doves Press and the letters MDCCCXCIII and MCM 1c. Can you find them? These are dates using Roman numbering. 1d. Can you work out the dates? 1893. 1900. MDCCCXCIII is MCM is [M=1,000, D=500, C=100, X=10] 2. What is the name of the public house? The Dove (listed Grade II). Dates from 1790. Known as “The Dove Coffee House” in 1796. The pub was used by watermen, when sailing barges were unloaded here. Go through the passage into Upper Mall. © Hammersmith & Fulham Urban Studies Centre Page 2 | Teacher Trail 5 This photograph of Upper Mall was taken in 1896. 3a. How long ago was this? years ago. 3b. What has changed? What has stayed the same? The large trees on the riverside have Buildings. been cut down. They were elm trees which were planted when Catherine of Braganza (wife of Charles II) lived in Rivercourt House (see Question 8a). They survived for over 200 years. The road is wider. © Hammersmith & Fulham Urban Studies Centre Teacher Trail 5 | Page 3 3c. What do you think are the biggest changes? The large elm trees have been cut down. Go to number 26, Kelmscott House. Look to the left of the door, there is a plaque (dark colour) to George MacDonald. 4a. What was he famous for? Poet and novelist, lived here 1867-77, when the house was called The Retreat. He lived 1824 -1905, works include ‘At the Back of the North Wind’ 1871 and ‘The Princess and the Goblin’ 1872. To the right of the door there is another plaque to a very famous Victorian called William Morris. 4b. What did he do? Poet, craftsman, socialist, 1834 - 1896. Lived here 1878 - 96. Born in Walthamstow. Helped to found the house decorating and furnishing business of Morris, Marshall, Faulkner & Co which became Morris & Co. He founded the weaving and dyeing works at Merton Abbey in 1881 and started the Kelmscott Press in 1891. He helped found the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (SPAB) in 1877. To the left of Kelmscott House is the Coach House. 4c. Who uses the Coach House now? The William Morris Society. The Coach House served as the meeting place for firstly the Social-Democratic Federation (Hammersmith branch formed in 1884) which became a branch of the Socialist League in 1884. Lectures were given regularly every Sunday. Visits can be arranged for your class. Contact the William Morris Society. Phone number 020 8741 3735. © Hammersmith & Fulham Urban Studies Centre Page 4 | Teacher Trail 5 Above the doors there is a stone plaque to Sir Francis Ronalds. 4d. What did he invent and build here? The first electric telegraph, eight miles long was constructed here in 1816. He was an electrical inventor and meteorologist, became a Fellow of the Royal Society (FRS) in 1844. He lived 1788 - 1873. Go over to the curved river wall opposite Kelmscott House. There is a notice about the “Regulation of Traffic in Upper Mall”. 5a. When was it put here? June 1960. 5b. How much money could your fine be? Forty Shillings. 5c. How much money would that be today? £2.00. © Hammersmith & Fulham Urban Studies Centre Teacher Trail 5 | Page 5 Look at this photograph taken in January 1928. 6a. What do you think has happened? Floods - river wall breached Sunday, 7th Jan. Two servant girls were drowned in Rivercourt House (see Question 8a). For newspaper article describing the event see the section Additional Teaching Materials. 6b. What can you recognise in the photograph? Hammersmith Bridge, Lower Mall, house on the left, pier, the curved river wall. © Hammersmith & Fulham Urban Studies Centre Page 6 | Teacher Trail 5 Walk along to houses 30 and 32. 1879. 7a. When were they built? They are good examples of VICTORIAN architecture. If you stand against the river wall you can also see Kelmscott House, which is a good example of GEORGIAN architecture. 7b. Describe the differences between the two types of architecture. VICTORIAN GEORGIAN Houses no.30 and 32. Kelmscott House. Listed Grade II. Victorian 1837 - 1901 Georgian 1714 - 1830. Decorated brickwork, bay windows. Plain, flat fronted, symmetrical, no Sash windows. ornamentation. Sash windows - small panes. See notes on architecture in Introduction 7c. Which style do you prefer? 7d. Why? © Hammersmith & Fulham Urban Studies Centre Teacher Trail 5 | Page 7 Go back to the Upper Mall. Look at number 36 on the corner. This is Rivercourt House. 8a. Who uses the building now? The Latymer Preparatory School - a private school. Listed Grade II, built around 1808. On this site was the house of Catherine of Braganza (1638 - 1705) wife of Charles II. 8b. Do you like the building? YES NO 8c. Explain why here. Walk to Weltje Road. Look at the side of number 48. There is a blue plaque here. 9a. Who lived here? Eric Ravilious 9b. What did he do? Artist. Eric William Ravilious (1903 - 42) lived here between 1931 - 5. Artist (preferred watercolour), book illustrator for Golden Cockerel Press, and designer for Wedgewood and London Underground. Official war artist. © Hammersmith & Fulham Urban Studies Centre Page 8 | Teacher Trail 5 Look at this photograph, taken on the corner of Weltje Road and Upper Mall. Photograph taken in about 1929. 10a. What can you see that is the same? The buildings. 10b. What has changed? The trees. Road surface. Traffic and people. © Hammersmith & Fulham Urban Studies Centre Teacher Trail 5 | Page 9 As you walk along Upper Mall, look out for this structure. 11a. What do you think it is used for? Any interesting guesses? 11b. Have a closer look and you will see a sign that tells you what it is used for. London Corinthian Sailing Club’s dinghy racing starting box. Built 1962. © Hammersmith & Fulham Urban Studies Centre Page 10 | Teacher Trail 5 Go on to number 60, Linden House. 12a. Do you like this building? YES NO 12b. Why? Listed Grade II, early 18th century. 12c. Who uses this building now? London Corinthian Sailing Club. Sons of the Thames Rowing Club. © Hammersmith & Fulham Urban Studies Centre Teacher Trail 5 | Page 11 The next section of the trail, between Linden House and Hammersmith Terrace has changed a great deal over the years. From Linden House go into Oil Mill Lane and walk a little way towards the Great West Road. This photograph of Oil Mill Lane was taken in 1954. It is looking towards the river. There was a big factory on the riverside. 13a. What has happened to the factory? Demolished. The factory was called the Bemax factory (Bemax was a wheatgerm product). Bemax took over the factory in 1930. Originally it was the Albert Oil Mills. Oil Mill Lane took its name from the factory. 13b. What has been built there instead of the factory? New housing, Lord Napier Place. © Hammersmith & Fulham Urban Studies Centre Page 12 | Teacher Trail 5 Walk back to the riverside, in front of Linden House and look at this photograph of 1904. Hammersmith West Middlesex Albert Mills (later the Terrace Water Company Bemax Factory) 14a. What has changed? The factories and waterworks have been demolished, no chimneys. Albert Mills/Bemax is new housing. Waterworks is now open space. 14b. What has stayed the same? Hammersmith Terrace. © Hammersmith & Fulham Urban Studies Centre Teacher Trail 5 | Page 13 Walk to the Old Ship Public House. Go around to the back (North side). The large building that backs on to the open space is the Victorian Water Pumping Station. Look at this photograph taken in the 1930s. This is now the ‘back’ of the pub. 15. Can you find any evidence that it is the same place? Pillars/tops of pillars alongside the windows. © Hammersmith & Fulham Urban Studies Centre Page 14 | Teacher Trail 5 Go to the open space. Walk over to the paved area that is alongside the river. This photograph of the Upper Mall Open Space was taken in 1968. 16a. Can you see anything that is the same? Pumping Station. St Paul’s Church. Arched windows in wall. The Lower Mall. The Old Ship pub (behind the white wall). 16b. What do you think is happening in the photograph? The old West Middlesex Water Company building (see question 14) has been demolished. Works in progress to create the open space. The open space was opened on 22nd October 1970 by Sir Alan Herbert (see question 23). © Hammersmith & Fulham Urban Studies Centre Teacher Trail 5 | Page 15 Walk along to ‘Black Lion Steps’. 17a. What do you think these steps are for? Access to the river and foreshore. Also known as Bell’s Stairs. Used by watermen to ferry people across the river. 17b. What do you think the arched wall is? Formed part of the buildings of the West Middlesex Water Company. Look at photograph for Question 16 - can see arched window on left. Look at the Black Lion pub side of the arched wall.
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