Forbidden Country
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NO-GO ZONES FORBIDDEN COUNTRY Just returned from hiking in Afghanistan, Tracey Croke suggests five testing trips that could help you shed any preconceptions about so-called no-go zones isiting and learning about areas and have a real sense of adventure,” that were once considered no-go Summers explains. Vzones due to conflict, lack of infrastructure or simply misinformation, SCALE GRANITE PEAKS ON THE ISLAND can often provide a greater sense of escape OF SOCOTRA and rejuvenation than a predictable beach The Yemen may not be everyone’s choice getaway. The new generation of tour for a stress-busting getaway due to ongoing operators has recognised that Australian security issues, including Al’Qaeda attacks, travellers are craving these unconventional, but 380 kilometres off the mainland sits exploratory trips and opening up new peaceful Socotra Island with its Unesco- horizons around the globe in a responsible listed beaches and the Haghir Mountains. way. Below is my top pick of challenging Sometimes referred to as the Galapagos of trips that you can fit into your annual leave. the Indian Ocean, Socotra is one of the world’s most isolated landforms of CLIMB THE FORGOTTEN PEAK OF continental origin and a third of its species MOUNT HALGURD IN IRAQI are found nowhere else. KURDISTAN Kurdistan has been autonomous since 2003 ENTER INTO ARNHEM LAND and not suffered the violence experienced The Yolngu homelands of north-east by the remainder of Iraq, though Sydney- Arnhem Land are presumed difficult to based mountaineer Ade Summers says it is access, but with the right permits you can far from easy to travel through. Earlier this stay with and learn from the people who year, he led the first commercial climb up have cared for this special part of the world Mount Halgurd, the highest peak in the for over 40,000 years. Zagros Mountains. Former Tourism Australia director John He explains: “We had a military liaison Morse, who has been visiting Arnhem Land officer with us so we wouldn’t wander into for many years, says: “It’s always been areas with unexploded ordinance on the possible to visit Arnhem Land but many Kurdistan's Zagros Mountains lower approach.” people think a special invitation is required; Photo: Secret Compass A close call with an avalanche saw the group break trail in waist-deep snow, A dragons blood tree on Socotra before a second slide forced them to abort Photo: Xavier Aubut the climb altogether. Three days later, however, the weather cleared enough for Summers himself to summit. As if the glitzy capital of Erbil was not surprise enough—in a territory labelled no-go by the Australian government’s travel advisory service—the group was overwhelmed at being invited to dine with the president’s nephew at a six-star hotel one night. Summers admits: “It was better food that the freeze-dried meals we had on the hill!” He believes anyone able to trek for multiple days carrying a 20-kilogram pack would enjoy the climb, though you need to be mentally strong to follow a little-known path in somewhere like Kurdistan. “You’ve got to be able to deal with the unexpected JUL/AUG 59 NO-GO ZONES Trekking in Afghanistan's Pamir Mountains Photo: Tracey Croke Arnhem Land Photo: Wayne Quilliam Following the Nile in Rwanda FOLLOW IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF Photo: Tom McShane MARCO POLO ACROSS AFGHANISTAN Queenslander Campbell Costello is one of a few outsiders to have crossed the Showr Pass in post-conflict Afghanistan as part of a three week expedition in the remote Pamir Mountains. He says: “I know being in the Wakhan Corridor is very different from other areas in Afghanistan, but not once did I ever feel threatened.” He adds: “From massive mountains that seem to ascend out of nowhere to dry desolate plains that look like something off a George Lucas movie set, the scenery POPULAR TRAILS THAT PUSH is stunning and the people are possibly THE BOUNDARIES the most hospitable I’ve met on all my travels.” sThe frozen Zanskar:.EPAL BASED OPERATOR0ROJECT(IMALAYARUNSA DAYTRIPWALKINGTHESEMI FROZEN WALK THE NILE IN SOUTH SUDAN :ANSKAROR#HADAR 2IVER WHERETHE British ex-soldier Levison Wood is CONDITIONSCHANGEHOUR BY HOURASTHE currently undertaking a year-long WATEREBBS mOWSANDFREEZES challenge to walk the length of the Nile, sHua Shan Trail:#HINASNOTORIOUS and is calling for eight fee-paying walkers KILOMETRETRAILSTARTINGINTHEOLD to join him and CAPITALOF8IANFEATURESPRECARIOUS a documentary crew for 10 days in the LOOKINGLEDGESMADEOFACOUPLEOF that’s not so. There is a real desire by Yolngu Nubian Desert in September as a way to PLANKSHAMMEREDTOGETHER people to open their land, homes and share raise funds for African wildlife charities sEl Caminito del Rey:4HISHEART their deep knowledge and exquisite culture Tusk and Space for Giants. PUMPINGROUTE(pictured) NEAR-ÉLAGA with the outside world.” The 6,840-kilometre journey, which ORIGINALLYBUILTFORHYDROELECTRICPLANT WORKERSANDTECHNICALLYCLOSEDSINCE Aboriginal-owned operator Lirrwi Yolngu Wood started last December in the ISCURRENTLYBEINGRESTORED Tourism has recently launched a seven-day highlands of Rwanda, was deemed sCascade Saddle:!lXEDWIRE tour that aims to ‘earn and learn’ from politically and medically impossible ROPEWASRECENTLYPROPOSEDFORTHIS tourism without dominating Yolngu culture. until now. SPECTACULARTWO DAYALPINECROSSING Manager Matt Grooby says: “Nowhere else IN-OUNT!SPIRING.ATIONAL0ARKDUE can you get the same level of connection secretcompass.com TOTHENUMBEROFFATALFALLSTHATHAVE and understanding with people on their lirrwitourism.com.au OCCURREDONITDURINGWETWEATHER homelands and on their terms.” project-himalaya.com 60 WILD.COM.AU .