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Home , Belemnoidea, Bobtail squid, Bottarga, Callistoctopus macropus, Cephalopod ink, Coleoidea

239

The Technical Details

240 The Technical Details

The Family Tree

Mollusca (molluscs) is a phylum within the king- dom (Animalia). are a of and they are themselves divided into two sub-classes, Nautiloidea () and (true cephalopods). Coleoidea are also sorted into two groups, , which are extinct, and , which encompasses all present-day cephalopods. Neocoleoidea are also divided into two superorders, Decapodiformes (cephalopods with eight arms and two ) and (cepha- lopods with eight arms). There are four orders of Decapodiformes: (extinct), Sepioidea (cuttlefsh), (), and (squid). There are two orders of Octopodiformes: , and Octopoda (). This book deals primarily with Sepioidea, Oegopsida, Myopsida, and Octopoda.

Animalia

Mollusca

Cephalopoda

Coleoidea (true cephalopods) Nautiloidea

†Belemnoidea Neocoleoidea

Decapodiformes Octopodiformes

Spirulida SepioideaOegopsida Myopsida Octopoda Vampyromorpha (cuttle sh) (squid) (squid) (octopuses)

Cephalopods Included in This Book

The table lists the cephalopods that are discussed in this book according to the name of their , together with the common English names. In addition, there is a nota- tion of whether a species can, in principle, be used for human consumption, even though it may not be common to do so or to catch it. The right hand column indicates where that species is usually found. 241 The Technical Details

Latin name English name Edible? Primary distribution

Alloteuthis subulata S European common squid Yes Eastern North Atlantic

Architeuthis dux S North Atlantic squid No All , but rare in tropical and polar latitudes Argonauta sp. , paper Yes Tropical and subtropical waters worldwide

Callistoctopus O White-spotted Yes Mediterranean Sea, macropus warmer parts of , Caribbean Sea, Indo-Pacifc Ocean Dosidicus gigas S Jumbo fying squid, Yes Eastern Pacifc Ocean from Tierra del Fuego to cirrhosa O Curled octopus, horned Yes Eastern North Atlantic octopus Ocean, Mediterranean Sea

Enteroctopus dofeini O North Pacifc giant Yes Coastal North Pacifc octopus Ocean scolopes C Hawaiian No Pacifc Ocean Grimpoteuthis sp. O Dumbo octopus No All oceans, but at great depths Hapalochlaena spp. O Southern blue-ringed No Indo-Pacifc Ocean octopus (blue- ringed octopus are found as far north as ) Idiosepius thailandicus C Bobtail squid, pygmy No Indo-Pacifc Ocean squid argentinus S Argentine shortfn squid Yes Southwestern Atlantic Ocean

Loligo forbesii S Veined squid, Yes Eastern North Atlantic long-fnned squid Ocean, Mediterranean Sea, Red Sea, Western 242 The Technical Details

Latin name English name Edible? Primary distribution

Loligo pealei S Longfn inshore squid Yes North Atlantic Ocean Loligo vulgaris S Yes Coastal waters of the eastern North Atlantic Ocean

Mesonychoteuthis S , Yes All parts of the hamiltoni squid, giant cranch squid Nautilus sp. Nautilus Yes Indo-Pacifc Ocean Octopus maya O Mexican four-eyed Yes Tropical Western octopus Atlantic Ocean Octopus vulgaris O Yes Atlantic Ocean, Indian Ocean, Pacifc Ocean

Octopus wolf O Star-sucker pygmy No Western Pacifc Ocean octopus offcinalis C Common cuttlefsh, Yes Mediterranean Sea, European common , cuttlefsh oweniana C Common bobtail Yes Eastern North Atlantic Ocean, Mediterranean Sea spp. C Bobtail squid Yes All oceans danae S Dana octopus squid, Yes Atlantic Ocean, Pacifc Taning’s octopus squid Ocean, but very rare

Todarodes pacifcus S Japanese fying squid, Yes Northern Pacifc Japanese common squid, Ocean Pacifc fying squid sagittatus S European fying squid Yes Northeastern Atlantic Ocean, Mediterranean Sea Thaumoctopus mimicus O No Indo-Pacifc Ocean Watasenia scintillans S Firefy squid, sparkling Yes Western Pacifc Ocean enope squid

C cuttlefsh, O octopus, S squid 243 Glossary

Glossary ambergris - a special secretion that is formed in the intes- tines of the in the shape of grey rock-like lumps that can weigh up to several hundred kilograms and often contain the remains of cephalopods; known since ancient times as a fxative in perfumes and for its fragrance. Animalia - the animal kingdom. anisakis - parasitic nematode ( worm) that can infest certain fsh and cephalopods. adenosine triphosphate - (adenosine-5'-triphosphate, ATP) polynucleotide that is the biochemical source of energy production in living cells. Among other sub- stances, it can be broken down to the 5'-ribonucleotides inosinate, adenylate, and guanylate, which are associated with synergistic umami. adenosine monophosphate - (AMP), a salt of the nucleic acid adenylic acid; synergizes with glutamate to enhance umami; found especially in fsh, shellfsh, and octopuses. alcatruz - pot used to catch octopuses in the traditional way by Mediterranean fshers. - amino acids are the fundamental building blocks of proteins. Examples include glycine, , , proline, and arginine. Nature makes use of 20 different, specifc amino acids to construct proteins, which are chains of amino acids bound together with peptide bonds. Short chains are called polypeptides and long ones proteins. In food, amino acids are often found bound together in proteins and also as free amino acids that can have an effect on taste. An example is glutamic acid, which is the basis of umami. More than half of the free amino acids in cephalopods are of the type that are associated with the taste of (arginine, glutamic acid, alanine, and glycine). - sal ammonium or salmiac (NH4Cl) found throughout the of the Architeuthis dux, as well as in other cephalopods that live at great depths. As it is lighter than seawater it helps to regulate buoyancy in the . 244 Glossary

Anthropocene epoch - new geological epoch dating from the mid-1950s, the point at which humanity began to make irrevocable impressions on the Earth’s ecosystems. Architeuthis - from Greek archē (chief or principal) and teuthis (squid); name for the giant squid Architeuthis dux. argonaut - (paper nautilus) cephalopod belonging to the species Argonauta, enclosed in a shell. - phylum of with , for example, insects and . ATP - see adenosine triphosphate. axon - long, thin projection of a nerve that sends signals to other nerve cells. - (Belemnoidea) group of cephalopods that were abundant during the Period (from about 145 million to 66 million years ago) and that became extinct at the same time as dinosaurs; fossilized remains are known popularly as thunderstones. bilateral organism - organism that has two virtually iden- tical symmetrical sides, for example, cephalopods and humans. biogenetic amines - substances that can be formed by an organism’s own enzymes and by microbial activity; potentially toxic when present in large quantities. - active light emitted by some organ- isms; produced when certain chemical reactions take place in that live in symbiosis with the host organism. blue-ringed octopuses - Hapalochlaena, genus of four different species of highly venomous octopuses found in the Indo-Pacifc region. bromelain - enzyme derived from fresh pineapples that can break down proteins such as collagen and gelatine, used as a meat tenderizer. calamar - also calamari, calamares, common names for various types of squid. Explosion - event about 542 million years ago and lasting for about 50 million years. During this period there was an amazing outburst of new life forms, among them all the major phyla of present-day animals, includ- ing the molluscs (Mollusca). Cephalopods emerged toward the end of this time. 245 Glossary

Cephalopoda - from the Greek kephalē (head) and pous (foot); class within the phylum (Mollusca) made up of about 800 still living species, divided into two sub-classes: true cephalopods (Coleoida) and nautiluses (Nautiloida). chemoreceptor - receptor that can bind and identify a particular chemical substance. chitin - polysaccharide that is a component of the cell walls of some fungi and the of insects and crustaceans. Cephalopod beaks and the of squid are made of chitin. - small complex organs made up of pigment-containing cells that can refect light. cirri - appendages around the mouth of Nautilida (nauti- luses). class - biological classifcation between phylum and , for example, Cephalopoda are a class under Mollusca. Cnidaria - phylum of invertebrates, characterized by spe- cial cells used for capturing prey and bodies made up of a non-living jelly-like substance; divided into polyps, such as sea anemones, that are sessile and medusae, such as jellyfsh, that swim. Coleoidea - sub-class that groups together all the cephalopods that have no shells; divided into the Belemnoidea, now extinct, and the Neocoleoidea, that includes all present-day cephalopods. Their common characteristics are a number of arms surrounding the mouth, very highly developed eyes, three hearts, and the ability to eject ink. collagen - protein network that forms connective tissues and thereby gives structure to all animal tissues, found mostly in the skin, muscles, and bones. The extent to which the collagen fbres are cross-linked determines how tender or tough a meat will be. It can be broken down to water-soluble gelatine by long-term heating at more than 70° Celsius for mammals and 60° Celsius for cephalo- pods. colossal squid - also Antarctic squid or giant cranch squid (Mesonychteuthis hamiltoni), believed to be the world’s largest squid species. connective tissue - see collagen. 246 Glossary

cross-linking - formation of crosswise chemical bonds between long-chained polymers, for example, proteins or carbohydrates. Both collagen in the skin and muscles and cellulose in the cell walls of are strongly cross-linked, which is why these tissues can be stiff and tough. curled octopus - also called horned octopus, Eledone cir- rhosa. - a sort of inner shell in cuttlefsh composed of carbonate together with small amounts of mineral salts. cuttlefsh - cephalopod with eight arms and two tenta- cles; belongs to the order Sepioidea. Decapodiformes - superorder of Neocoleoidea cephalo- pods with eight arms and two tentacles; encompasses four orders: Spirulida, Sepioidea (cuttlefsh), Oegopsida (squid), and Myopsida (squid). dendrite - projection from a nerve cell that receives sig- nals from other nerve cells. - geological period from 419 million to 359 mil- lion years ago. DHA - docosahexaenoic acid, polyunsaturated fatty acid found in large quantities in marine organisms. disruptive colouration - mechanism whereby an organ- ism, for example an octopus, can blend into its surround- ings by taking on colours and patterns that break up its normal contours. - neurotransmitter; substance that sends sig- nals between nerve cells and in the brain. endocrine system - collection of glands that secrete hormones that integrate and control bodily metabolism. EPA - eicosapentaenoic acid, polyunsaturated fatty acid found in large quantities in marine organisms. epigenetics - discipline that studies how inheritable traits of an organism are changed by a modifcation of gene expression rather than by alterations in the DNA sequence. eumelanin - see . European squid - Loligo vulgaris. family - biological classifcation that is between order and genus. 247 Glossary gastrophysics - interdisciplinary science defned by quali- tative refections and quantitative investigations of foods, how they are handled and prepared, as well as their taste, focusing on physical effects and explanations. gastro-lab - a particular type of laboratory certifed for food handling, but with much more specialized and pre- cise equipment than would be found in an ordinary kitchen. gelatine - protein found in the form of collagen in con- nective tissue that is released when collagen is heated, dissolving the stiff collagen fbres. In contrast to colla- gen, gelatine is soluble in water. When gelatine is cooled, the stiff fbre structure of collagen is not reformed and, instead, a water-retaining gel is created. genus - biological classifcation between family and species. gladius - commonly called a pen; vestigial rudimentary support structure in a squid that resembles a sword or a feather, somewhat fexible and made of chitin glutamate - salt of the amino acid glutamic acid, for example, (MSG). In water, glu- tamate splits into sodium ions and glutamate ions, the latter being the main source of umami. glutamic acid - amino acid; in ionic form its salts (gluta- mates) are a source of umami. glycogen - branched polysaccharide molecule made up of glucose units. Glycogen is the energy depot in the liver and in the white muscles of fsh, shellfsh, and cephalo- pods. Gorgons - in Greek mythology, three female-like beings, of which Medusa is the most famous; usually depicted as hideous monsters with hair made of living, writhing snakes. gyotaku - traditional Japanese technique for making a print of a fsh by pressing rice paper onto a fsh that has been covered with ink. - from Latin hecto (hundred) and Greek kotúlē (small cup), modifed arm of a cephalopod with a particular organ (ligula) at the end that can transfer a protein capsule containing sperm (spermatozoa) to the female during mating. hemocyanin - protein that transports oxygen in the bloodstream of invertebrates such as cephalopods and 248 Glossary

certain crustaceans, for example, . Instead of iron, hemocyanin relies on copper to bind the oxygen molecules, which accounts for the blue colour of cephalo­pod blood. hemoglobin - protein that transports oxygen in the red blood cells of all vertebrates. - in fsh and molluscs the glandular organ that combines the functions of liver and pancreas, secreting vital digestive enzymes. It is also responsible for the exchange of nutrients and waste products that are later expelled via the anus and for the fow of water out through the . hydrolysis - chemical process by which a molecule such as a protein is cleaved into smaller entities while absorbing water. For example, connective tissue (collagen) can be hydrolyzed to form gelatine. hydrostat - a deformable system that is subject to con- stant pressure; the muscles of cephalopods are muscular hydrostats. ikebana - centuries old traditional Japanese art of fower arranging. invertebrate - animal that lacks a backbone or a bony skeleton; imprecise taxonomic classifcation for different animal groups that lack a spinal column, for example, insects, molluscs, worms, and crustaceans. Cephalopods are invertebrates. iridophores - organs consisting of very thin transparent cells made of chitin sheets that can cause iridescence. By refecting and refracting light from their surroundings they can produce metallic, silvery, blue, and green tones by a mechanism known as ‘structural interference’ in the same way as soap bubbles display a colour spectrum. Iridophores have the special property of being able to refect polarized light. iridescence - see iridophores. Japanese fying squid - Todarodes pacifcus, also called Pacifc fying squid, belong to the family. kingdom - in biology the second highest taxonomic rank divided between plants and animals. Kraken - mythological giant cephalopod-like that can have either eight or ten arms. Kraken is a Norwegian word that has connotations of something with a frightening and twisted appearance. 249 Glossary leucophores - organs made up of static fat white cells that are able only to reinforce the effects created by chro- matophores and iridophores; provide a chalk white background in the skin of cephalopods. ligula - from Latin for small ; small cup-like organ on the hectocotylus used by male cephalopods to trans- fer sperm to the female during mating. mantle - the muscular structure of cephalopods that encases the innards. medusa - see Cnidaria. melanin - dark biological pigment. There are several types of melanin, of which eumelanin is the most com- mon one and is responsible, among other things, for the colour of . Mollusca - the phylum of molluscs. mollusc - from Latin mollis (soft); invertebrate belonging to the phylum Mollusca. MSG - monosodium glutamate; the sodium salt of glu- tamic acid; the most important source of umami. Myopsida - order of squid that includes, among others, Todarodes spp. and Architeuthis dux; differentiated from the other order of squid, Oegopsida, by the structure of their eyes. nautilus - cephalopod belonging to a sub-class of Mollusca, Nautiloidea. Nautilida - order under Cephalopoda that includes cephalopods (nautiluses) with outer shells. Nautiloidea - sub-class of Cephalopoda. Neocoleoidea - group of all presently living cephalopods with eight arms (Octopodaformes) and cephalopods with eight arms and two tentacles (Decapodiformes). neocortex - particular part of the mammalian brain that deals with the more complex functions such as cognition, sensory perception, planning, speech, and rational behaviour. nessa - a net trap used by Mediterranean fshers for catching octopuses. neurotransmitter - chemical substance that carries the signals between nerve cells, for example, dopamine. nidamental glands - pair of glands in some species of female squid and cuttlefsh that secrete the gelatinous substance that forms egg cases. 250 Glossary

North Atlantic squid - Architeuthis dux. nucleotide - chemical group that forms part of a nucleic acid, for example, ATP and the umami taste substance adenylate. Octopoda - order of all present day octopuses. Octopodiformes - superorder of Neocoleoidea cephalo- pods with eight arms; encompasses two orders: Vampyromorphida and Octopoda. octopus - cephalopod with eight arms; belongs to the order Octopoda. Oegopsida - order of squid that includes, among others, Loligo spp. and Allotheuthis spp.; differentiated from the other order of squid, Myopsida, by the structure of their eyes. Ommastrephida - family of squid the includes the species Illex argentius and Todarodes pacifcus, the most impor- tant commercially fshed squid. opsin - photoreceptor that responds to different colours of light; found in the skin of some cephalopods. order - biological classifcation that is between class and family, for example, Octopoda. oryza cystein protease - enzyme found in malted rice that can suppress the action of other enzymes. paper argonaut - common name for a nautilus; refers to its fragile, translucent shell. papillae - millimetre-sized protrusions in the skin of some cephalopods; controlled by special muscles. They can change the surface appearance of a normally smooth- skinned animal to make it look spiky or bumpy. - stage in the life cycle of a newly hatched octo- puses or squid when it swims around in the sea like until it reaches the sub-adult stage and fnds a permanent habitat. patera - small net traps used in the Mediterranean for catching octopuses. pen - see gladius. peptide - molecule that is composed of amino acids, such as a protein. - geological period from 299 million to 251 mil- lion years ago. 251 Glossary peschiera - traditional Sardinian community co-operative that had stewardship over a piece of coastal land and the fshing rights associated with it. - photo-active organ that emits active light; in cephalopods this can take the form of bioluminescence due to chemical reactions that take place in certain bacte- ria that live symbiotically in the tissue of the animal. photoreceptor - sense organ that responds to light falling on it. phylum - broad biological classifcation just below king- dom and above class. polarized light - light that is passed through a flter so that the waves of light are limited to one plane and oscil- lations are restricted to it. Unpolarized light, for exam- ple, from an incandescent lamp or the sun, oscillates in all directions. polyp - see Cnidaria. polysaccharide - carbohydrate consisting of many sugar units (saccharides). protein - polypeptide; that is, a long chain of amino acids held together by peptide bonds. Enzymes are a par- ticular class of proteins that act as catalysts for chemical reactions under controlled circumstances. Proteins lose their functionality (denature) and undergo changes to their physical characteristics when they are heated, exposed to salt or acid when cooked, salted, or mari- nated, or subjected to the action of enzymes when fer- mented. potera - special net fsh traps, often used to catch octopus. protease - enzyme that can break down proteins. pseudomorph - ink cloud with a greater content that can hold its shape and resemble another cephalopod or a dangerous animal; used as a escape mechanism to confuse a predator. - ribbon-like raspy tongue with rows of tiny, sharp chitin teeth in cephalopods. Sepioidea - order of cephalopods to which cuttlefsh and the closely related bobtail squid belong. shunga - Japanese erotic art; usually in the form of a woodblock print. 252 Glossary

siphon - muscular structure in the mantle of cephalopods through which the animal can expel water from the man- tle into its surroundings; when done with great force this enables it to use jet propulsion. - geological period from 444 million to 419 mil- lion years ago. species - the basic unit of biological classifcation, for example, Loligo pealei, a species in the genus Loligo. spermatozoa - small sac of male reproductive cells. spinal chord - from Latin chorda (chord) and spinae (thorns), long chord of nerve tissue that is the major component of the vertebrate central nervous system. Spirulida - order of cephalopods; with only one extant species, the ram’s horn squid, which has a distinct coiled shell. sp. - when written after a genus name, sp. indicates a reference to an unspecifed species of the genus; for example Octopus sp. spp. - when written after a genus name, spp. indicates that the reference is to several species within in the same genus; for example, Hapalochlaena spp. refers to all the species of blue-ringed octopus. squid - cephalopod with eight arms and two tentacles; belongs to either the Myopsida or the Oegopsida order. synapse - junction that permits a nerve cell to transmit a signal to an adjacent nerve cell. Taishokan - Japanese legend from the Asuka period (538– 710) that relates the story of the struggle between a young girl diver and a sea dragon-serpent (sometimes pictured as an octopus) to recover a precious jewel. Over the centuries the theme was sexualized and variations of it are found in Japanese art works that have subsequently inspired erotic depictions internationally in paintings, literature, and movies, often involving giant octopuses and squid. teleost - infraclass of the ray-fnned fsh with a particu- lar structure of the jaws. tentacles - elongated appendages of squid and cuttlefsh that are used to hunt prey. tetrodotoxin - lethal venom in the bite of blue-ringed octopuses (Hapalochlaena); the same neurotoxin is found in pufferfsh. 253 Glossary

Teuthida - obsolete classifcation for the order to which squid belong; has been replaced by two separate orders, Myopsida and Oegopsida as they are now known to have descended from separate branches of the cephalopod evolutionary tree. teuthis - ancient Greek word for a small squid. thunderstone - popular name for the fossilized rostrum of a belemnite, a now extinct cephalopod. Early Europeans thought they were formed when thunderbolts hit the ground. - geological period from 252 million years ago to 201 million years ago. trimethylamine - foul-smelling organic substance (ter- tiary amine) produced, for example, by bacterial decom- position of trimethylaminoxide in dead seaweeds, cephalopods, and fsh. - enzyme involved in the synthesis of melanin and also a component of cephalopod ink. Its presence can cause eye irritation and confuse the sense of taste and smell of an attacking predator. umami - one of the fve basic tastes. There are two sepa- rate aspects of umami, a basal contribution, based on free glutamate, and a strengthening or synergistic contri- bution, which is due to the presence of 5'-ribonucleo- tides, especially inosinate, adenylate and guanylate. Vampyromorphida - order () of cephalo- pods with only one extant species, which is characterized by an extended web that connects its arms. 254 Culinary Terms

Culinary Terms

agar - gelation agent extracted from red algae. aliño - Andalusian sauce made with oil, wine vine- gar (usually sherry vinegar), salt, green peppercorns, and fnely chopped tomatoes and onions. amok - (also mok, ho mok) in southeast Asian cuisine a curry that is steamed in a banana leaf, typically made with fsh, galangal, and coconut cream and served with cooked rice. Amok is a Cambodian specialty. azuki - small green or red beans (Phaseolus angularis). The red ones are sweet and used in the form of a paste in Japanese cakes, confections, and desserts. bai-yo - Thai name for Morinda citrifolia, the leaves of which as used in Asian dishes. - Mediterranean specialty of dried fsh from , cod, or mullet. The roe sacs are extracted and put in sea salt for a few weeks and then hung up to air- dry for about a month. The salt draws the liquid out of the roe, making it very frm and hard. It is rich in umami and served with tapas or cut into thin slices and used as a topping. brioche - delicate bun or bread made with a yeast dough that contains butter and eggs. burrata - semi-soft fresh Italian cheese with an outer curd made from fresh buffalo milk mozzarella that is flled with stringy buffalo milk curds (stracciatella) and cream. calamar en su tinto - cephalopod, usually cuttlefsh, pre- pared in its own ink. calamares a la plancha - Spanish expression for grilled squid or cuttlefsh. calamares chiquititos (puntillitas) - Spanish expression for the European common squid ( sublata). calamares grelhados - Portuguese expression for grilled squid or cuttlefsh. calamaritos (chipirones) - Spanish name for European squid (Loligo vulgaris). - raw fsh, shellfsh, or cephalopod meat that has been marinated in juice, which makes it frmer and partly preserves it. 255 Culinary Terms chipirones - Spanish name for European squid (Loligo vulgaris). chipotle - pepper made from smoked, dried jalapeños. chirashi-sushi - (Japanese for ‘scattered sushi’) a particu- larly colourful type of sushi in which fsh, shellfsh, and green vegetables are placed on a layer of sushi rice. chocos fritos - popular Spanish expression for the deep- fried mantles of small Sepia offcinalis. chokkara - Korean name for an enzymatic fermentation medium made with the innards of cephalopods. See also shiokara. daikon - (Japanese for ‘big root’) mild-tasting large, long white radish. dashi - (Japanese for ‘cooked extract’) a stock made from, for example, seaweed (konbu) and bonito fsh fakes (). Dashi is the epitome of an ingredient that adds umami. emulsifer - a substance that depresses the surface ten- sion between oil and water, thereby facilitating the for- mation of an emulsion. Lipids are emulsifers. emulsion - a mixture of water with oil-like substances, for example, fats, that are sparingly soluble in water. Mayonnaise and ice cream are examples of emulsions. farinata - pancake made with chickpea four; specialty of the Ligurian coast of . fregula - special type of Sardinian pasta made from semolina dough rolled into tiny spheres and baked in an oven. galangal - any one of four species of aromatic rhizomes from the ginger family; used as a spice in Asian cuisine. garum - brownish liquid that seeps out when salted small fsh and fsh innards from, for example, mackerel and tuna are crushed and fermented for a long time; similar to Asian fsh sauces. Garum production was an impor- tant industry in ancient Rome and . glace - meat juice that has been reduced slowly; contains concentrated taste substances and can be used as a taste additive in gravies. glaze - to give a smooth, glossy appearance by coating a surface with reduced aspic, butter, or sugar. gnocchi - small round dumplings usually made from semolina, wheat four, or potatoes; used much like pasta. 256 Culinary Terms

granita - sherbet prepared with a light sugar syrup, pos- sibly with a little alcohol. Its texture is not uniform as it has small ice crystals that crunch between the teeth. gremolata - condiment, typically made with chopped herbs, , and garlic. grissini - crisp bread sticks. hashi - Japanese word for chopsticks. hotara ika no shiokara - variant of the Japanese dish ika no shiokara made with small frefy squid (Watasenia scintillans). huevos de choco - Andalusian specialty made with the nidamental glands from large female Sepia offcinalis. ichiya-boshi - Japanese expression for fsh or cephalo- pods that are salted and dried overnight. ika - Japanese word for cuttlefsh and squid, of which at least 100 species are found in the waters around Japan. Mongo-ika are cuttlefsh and kensaki-ika are squid. ika no ichiya-boshi - Japanese expression for semi-dried squid. ika no shiokara - squid or cuttlefsh that is fermented in the enzymes from its own liver (hepatopancreas). ika-sōmen - noodle-like strips cut from the mantle of a cuttlefsh. ishiru - fermented Japanese fsh sauce that is high in glutamate. jiaoyán yóujú - crispy fried squid seasoned with salt and Sichuan pepper. julienne - description of food that is cut into thin strips like matchsticks. Kampot pepper - of black pepper (Piper nigrum) grown in the Kampot province of Cambodia; available in green, black, red, white, and yellow varieties depending on how ripe it is when harvested and whether it has been dried. katsuobushi - Japanese expression for a hard flet of kat- suo (bonito) that has been subjected to a ­comprehensive process of , drying, salting, smoking, and fer- menting; contains large quantities of inosinate, which contributes synergy to umami. kimchi - Korean name for pickled, fermented vegetables, for example, cabbage. 257 Culinary Terms kokumi - Japanese expression that describes the continu- ity, that is, the long-lasting taste impression, and mouth- feel of food. There may be some overlap between the taste experience of kokumi and umami. konbu - also known as kombu; large brown alga (Saccharina japonica), an important ingredient in dashi. Konbu contains large quantities of glutamate and is a source of umami. kroeung - Cambodian spice mixture used in many Khmer dishes. lardo - a special type of Italian cold cut made from pork fatback that is cured over a long period of time in marble basins. leaves - also makrut lime and Thai lime (Citrus hys- trix); citrus tree native to tropical parts of ; the leaves and rind are widely used in Thai, Lao, and Cambodian cuisine. lulas grelhadas - Portuguese expression for grilled squid. mirin - sweet rice wine with a 14% alcohol content. miso - Japanese fermented soybean paste. mouthfeel - see texture. muscovado sugar - unrefned sugar with a strong molas- ses taste and high moisture content. nigiri-sushi - hand-pressed ball of vinegared rice topped with a piece of fsh, shellfsh, or cephalopod, which in most cases is raw. nimono - Japanese expression for slow-cooked dishes. noni - Cambodian name for Morinda citrifolia, the leaves of which as used in Asian dishes. nori - paper thin sheets made from the fronds of the red alga Porphyra, which are dried, pressed, and sometimes toasted; among other uses, essential for making sushi rolls. Pacojet - professional kitchen appliance that consists of a very rapidly rotating, extremely sharp blade that liter- ally shaves a frozen block of food into tiny particles, about fve micrometres in size, which is below the thresh- old where the mouth can detect the individual particles. pane carasau - traditional twice-baked Sardinian fat- bread. 258 Culinary Terms

panko - from Japanese pan (bread) and ko (small pieces); dried, Japanese breadcrumbs that are very light and, therefore, absorb only a little oil when used for deep fry- ing, resulting in a crust that is crisper and less greasy. Parmigiano Reggiano - the original Italian Parmesan cheese; hard, dry, and aged; has a substantial glutamate content that is a good source of umami. pescaito frito - Portuguese expression for deep-fried fsh, shellfsh, and cephalopods. pesce crudo - Italian expression for raw or nearly raw fsh, shellfsh, and cephalopods. piquillo pepper - from the Spanish for little beak; a vari- ety of chili pepper (Capsicum annuum) that is sweet and mild. polbo á feira - (pulpo a la Gallega) Galician dish of boiled octopus with paprika and . pompia - an unusual large, bright yellow Sardinian citrus (Citrus limon var. pompia), with a thick, wrinkled skin. ponzu - a Japanese marinade containing soy sauce, dashi, juice, and possibly a little sake. pulpo a la Gallega - see polbo á feira. pulpo aliñado - Spanish dish of cooked octopus arms in an aliño sauce. puntarella - an Italian variety of chicory. puntillitas - (calamares chiquititos) Spanish name for the squid species . rau dang - Vietnamese name for common knotweed, used in soups and hot pots. saki-ika - dried squid or cuttlefsh. sanbaizu - Japanese marinade made with soy sauce, rice vinegar, and dashi. san-nakji - Korean specialty made with cut-off parts of an arm from an octopus that is alive and that can still move as it is being eaten. sashimi - Japanese expression for sliced raw fsh, shell- fsh, or cephalopod. shaoxing - sweet Chinese rice wine used for cooking. shichimi - Japanese spice blend with seven different tastes; commonly contains sanshō pepper, white and black sesame seeds, red chili, ground ginger, ao-nori (green seaweed similar to sea lettuce), dried yuzu , and hemp seeds. 259 Culinary Terms shiokara - (Japanese for ‘salted and spicy’) fermentation medium made with the hepatopancreas of squid and cuttlefsh. sorbet - frozen dessert made from fruit juice and sugar, but without dairy products or egg yolks. sous vide - (French for ‘under pressure’) term that describes a technique for cooking foods at low tempera- tures in a tightly sealed plastic pouch. su - Japanese rice vinegar. sudako tako - Japanese dish of lightly marinated octo- pus, for example, with yuzu and salt. surimi - (Japanese for ‘minced meat’) fnely minced meat pressed together into blocks, often made from Humboldt squid (Dosidicus gigas) and used as imitation and shrimp. surume - Japanese expression for or cuttlefsh; also a nickname for Todarodes pacifcus. tako - Japanese expression for octopus (Octopus vul- garis). tako-yaki - dumplings baked in a special pan made from a four batter flled with minced, cooked octopus, possi- bly some scraps, pickled ginger, and green onions; served with Japanese mayonnaise and a variety of dipping sauces. tapas - small cold and hot dishes usually served as snacks with drinks. tempura - Japanese expression for deep fried fsh, shell- fsh, or vegetables breaded with panko. texture - (mouthfeel) the textural properties of a food that constitute a group of distinctive physical character- istics that can be felt primarily by touch and that are due to the structural elements of the food. Textural proper- ties are connected to mechanical properties such as deformation, breakdown, and streaming of the food when it is subjected to forces in the mouth, such as chew- ing. umami - one of fve basic tastes. It has two separate aspects, a basal contribution, based on free glutamate, and a strengthening or synergistic contribution, which is due to the presence of 5'-ribonucleotides, including inosinate, adenylate, and guanylate. ventresca - Italian word for the very fatty tuna belly meat. 260 Culinary Terms

wakame - Japanese expression for the brown seaweed Undaria pinnitifada. wasabi - Japanese horseradish (Wasabi japonica). yōkan - Japanese confectionary or candy made from red azuki bean paste that is made into a frm gel with the help of sugar and the thickener agar (kanten). yuzu - small fruit (Citrus junus) that has a more aromatic taste than a lemon. zajin chao xianyou - dish of deep-fried squid with sugar peas.

.. Gyotaku of a Todarodes sagittatus. 261 Illustration Credits

Illustration Credits

Unless noted below, all photos have been taken by Jonas Drotner Mouritsen. Utagawa Kuniyoshi, pp. VIII, 131; Charles Zuckermann, p. XI bottom; Ernst Haeckel, p. 1, 261; depositphotos, p. 5 (Dieter Hawian), p. 54 (Plancton- Video), p. 73 (Valeriy Lebedev), p. 75 (Dmitry Chulov); Heraklion Archaeological Museum p. 6; Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History, p. 8; Steenstrupia 29, 39–47, 2005, p. 8; Pierre Denys de Montfort, p. 10; Tsunemi Kubodera, pp. 11, 90; Katsushika Hokusai, p. 13; Alphonse de Neuville, p. 14; iStock, p. 15 (Ryan J. Lane), p. 17 (Michael Ziegler), p. 39 left (Damocean), p. 39 right (Veliferum), p. 71 (Frank van der Bergh), p. 93 (Nessa- fame); Joshua Lambus, p. 16 ; Xavier Bailly, p. 27; Ole G. Mouritsen, pp. 35, 39 middle, 58, 66, 67, 81, 82, 85, 92, 96, 122 bottom right, 129, 216, 221, 231; Scott Portelli, s. 57; Anders Brix, p. 76; Mathias Porsmose Clausen, p. 106; Adrian Franklin, p. 122 top; Rob Whitrow, p. 122 bottom left; Kristoff Styrbæk, pp. 89, 115, 133, 146, 154, 159, 160, 162, 164, 175, 177; Klavs Styrbæk, pp. 187, 190, 192, 195; Julia Sick, p. 197, 211; Roberto Flore, 204 top; Natural History Museum, London, p. 239; Rikke Højer, p. 260.

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Index

A –– Octopus 2, 4, 75 –– squid 3, 4, 20, 32, 35, 41 acid 53, 88, 90, 103, 108, 110, 130, 203, 204 –– swimming 43, 232 adenosine triphosphate (ATP) 88, 243 –– walking 19 adenylate 88 Artemia salina 228 agar 19, 252 arthropods 37, 47 alanine 88, 89, 243 Atzori, Davide 218 alcatruz 243 Australia 18, 228, 239 Alexis 116 autonomy 31, 36 aliño 156, 254 Awaji 117 Alloteuthis subulata 19, 155, 241 axon 32, 244 ambergris 12, 243 azuki 182, 254 amino acid 53, 90, 243 ammonium chloride 44, 90 amok 194, 195, 254 B anatomy 2, 19, 27–70, 103, 116 Baffn Island 7 Andalusia 154–156 Bailly, Xavier 230, 231, 261 Animalia 240, 243 bai-yo 195, 254 animal welfare 63, 68 Baltic Sea 242 anisakis 91, 243 Basho, Matsuo 118 11, 18 beak 8, 40–48, 94, 98, 100, 148, 200, 204, 232 Antarctic squid 39, 242, 245 behaviour 12, 14, 28, 29, 31, 34, 35, 38, 65, Anthropocene epoch 225–238, 244 66, 236 anus 30, 56, 80 belemnite 24 Apicius, Marcus Garvius 116 Belemnoidea 240 aquaculture bilateral organism 28, 244 –– cuttlefsh 230–232 biogenetic amines 90, 244 –– Japan 11, 18, 58, 73, 74, 107, 110, 117, bioluminescence 61, 244 118, 228 bivalves 2, 19, 86, 88, 89 –– 11, 75, 229 blood 2, 46–47, 96, 248 –– Octopus 228–229 blue 86 –– Spain 80, 94, 117, 118, 156, 228 blue-ringed octopus 14, 241, 252 Aragon 117 blue swimming crab 190 Architeuthis bobtail squid 241, 251 –– dux 11, 44, 241, 243, 244 Bond, James 14, 121 –– monachus 9 bottarga 221, 254 Argentina 75 braid 206 Argentine shortfn squid 72, 241 brain arginine 88, 243 –– in arms 31, 34, 42 argonaut 21, 239, 244 –– body ratio 31 Argonauta 239 –– cephalopods 24, 32, 34 Aristotle 7, 35, 53 –– Octopus 31, 215 arms, cephalopods –– skull 30, 48 –– arsenic 91 –– in suckers 44, 54, 58 –– brain 29, 35, 38 branchial hearts 30 –– crawling 50, 215 breading 95, 155 –– cuttlefsh 21, 29, 32, 39, 41, 43, 45 briny shrimp 228 –– as food 86, 94 brioche 142, 143, 254 –– locomotion 43 270 Index

Brittany 230, 238 chicken 81, 86–88, 194, 227 bromelain 244 Chili Pepper Khmer Cuisine 192 buoyancy 44 73, 75, 90, 117, 164, 192 burrata 217, 254 chipirones 155 buying cephalopods 93–114 chipotle 161, 203 bycatch 3, 72, 73 chips 150, 151 chirashi-sushi 119, 255 chitin –– rings 98, 218 C –– teeth 44 Cabrera, Ignacío López 77 chocos fritos 156, 255 Cádiz 154 chokkara 110, 255 cadmium 91 cholesterol 84, 87 Cagliari 212–215, 222 chromatophore 57–60, 190, 215, 217 calamares class 18, 106, 209 –– grelhados 112, 144, 155 cleaning cephalopods –– a la plancha 144 –– cuttlefsh 97–98 calamari origin of name 7, 53 –– octopus 100 calamaritos 155 –– squid 98–100 –– chiquititos 155 climate change 25, 46, 74, 226, 228, 234 calamarium 53 Cnidaria 245 calcium 21, 25, 86 cod 86, 87 macropus 128, 215, 241 Cofradía de Pescadores de Motril 77 calories 86, 87, 226 cognition 29, 34 Cambodia 186, 191, 192 cognitive functions 230 Cambrian Explosion 23, 24, 38, 244 Coleoidea 24, 240, 245 Cambridge Declaration on collagen 48, 49, 51, 103–106, 140, 200 Consciousness 235, 236 colon 30 camoufage techniques 56–58, 60–62, 80 colossal squid 18, 62, 242, 245 candy 137 colour cannibalism 4, 200 –– blindness 3, 39, 60, 62 164 –– pattern display 3, 35, 49 carbohydrate 56 common bobtail 242 cat 15, 34 common cuttlefsh 129, 242 Catalan 117 common octopus 242 catch, data 234 communication 26, 36, 60, 198, 209 catching, methods Compleat Angler, The 183–196 –– gaff 8 consciousness 34–36, 236, 237 –– with lights 72, 73 cookbooks 105, 116, 117 –– lines 72, 78 cooking water, octopus 141–143, 148, 223 –– nets 214 copper 46, 86, 91, 105 –– pots 72 Cornwall 121 –– traps 72 Cousteau, Jacques 14 Cephalopoda Crawling 50, 215 –– number of species 15 Cretaceous period 24 –– size and weight 15 Crete 6 Cephalopodi crudo 123 cross-linking 48, 103, 245, 246 cephalopods curled octopus 241, 246 –– origin of name 192, 240 cuttlebone 22, 48, 94, 97, 144, 232 –– smell of 53 cuttlefsh ceviche 118, 134–135 –– beak and mouth 40–41 –– day 134 –– boiled 144 chemoreceptor 62, 245 –– cleaning 97 271 B–F Index

–– colour 56–61, 112 E –– fried 152–154 –– ink 123, 157, 173–180, 182 EAT, Lancet Commission on a Healthy Diet 235 –– intelligence 29–38 eggs 25, 43, 53, 56, 72, 94, 142–143, 150, 156, –– life cycle 230–232 166–170, 177, 178, 184, 200, 228, 229 –– nutrient contents 86 Egypt 7, 72 –– populations 46, 233, 234 eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) 86, 246 –– raw 118–119 Eledone cirrhosa 19, 80, 241 –– sashimi 120–123 Eledone spp. 19, 80 –– sushi 119–120 emulsifer 143, 255 –– taste 88–90 endocrine system 63, 246 –– tenderizing 103–107 England 121, 235 –– tentacles 2, 18, 20, 21, 24, 41, 42, 55, 94 English channel 230 –– texture 210 dofeini 18, 241 –– in wok 165–166 environment –– problems 78 –– toxins 91 enzymes D –– fermentation 110 daikon 105, 255 –– tenderizing 108–109 Dana octopus squid 242 epigenetics 63, 246 Darwin, Charles 56 esophagus 30, 31, 34 dashi 117, 118, 130, 136, 148, 203, 255 esthetic effect 122 Decapodiformes 20, 240, 246 61, 241 decapods 20 European common cuttlefsh 242 –– See also cuttlefsh; squid European common squid 241 deep-frying 95, 102, 150, 152, 153 European squid 242 dehydrating 138 evolution 3, 24, 29, 36, 37, 65, 66, 226, 234 Deir el Bahari 7 –– of cephalopods 24, 29, 37, 38, 66 de Lacaze-Duthier, Henri 230 export 75 de Montfort, Pierre Denys 10, 261 eyes 2, 6, 15, 18, 28, 30, 35, 37–39, 45, 49, 54, denaturing 103, 130 62, 107, 183, 200, 215 dendrite 32 eye spots 58 de Neuville, Alphonso 14, 261 De re coquinaria 116 de Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri 12 F Devonian period 24 Fadda, Daniella 218 di Cosmo, Anna 63, 67 Fais, Pier Luigi 213, 222 digestion family 21, 67, 75, 193, 240 –– enzymes 56 farinata 216 –– glands 18, 56, 91, 200 fats 3, 49, 55, 86, 96, 104, 180, 226, 227 –– system 28, 40, 41, 44, 56, 200 fatty acids 86, 87, 246 dinosaurs 24 feather, squid 21 disruptive colouration 61, 246 fermentation 94, 109, 189, 203, 204, 209 docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) 86, 246 fettuccine 124, 125, 176 Doeut, Dorn 192 fbre Dohrn, Anton 64–65, 69 –– collagen 48, 49, 51, 245 dopamine 54, 246 –– dietary 87 Dosidicus gigas 26, 51, 103, 107, 241 –– muscle 48, 49, 94, 103, 106, 107, 109, 152 drying 95, 136–138, 204 –– nerve 32, 39, 44 –– See also dehydrating fnfsh 3, 24, 49, 72, 86, 91, 103, 227, 234 Dumbo octopus 26, 241 fns dumpling 117 –– as food 50, 110 Duong Dong 186, 188 –– swimming 50 272 Index

Fiorito, Graziano 66, 68, 69 glaze 140–142, 201, 207 frefy squid 110, 242 glutamate 88, 110 fsh glutamic acid 88, 110 –– less popular varieties 117, 182 glycine 88, 89 –– market 63, 94, 107, 128, 186, 188, 212, 213 glycogen 88, 247 –– odour 62, 90 gnocchi 173–175, 217, 255 –– roe 120, 124, 163, 164 Godfrey-Smith, Peter 36, 37 –– sauce 94, 117, 147, 186–189, 191, 193–196 Goethe 65 fsheries, cephalopod gonads 30 –– commercial importance 74 gorgons 14, 247 –– cuttlefsh 74 Granada 77–84 –– global scope 73 granita 222 –– international waters 74 Greece 136 –– octopus 74 Greeks 72, 105, 116 –– squid 74 greenhouse gases 83, 227 fexitarian 235 Greenland 7 Flore, Roberto 154, 155, 199, 204, 206, 207, gremolata 161, 256 209, 212, 261 grilling 95, 102, 144, 204 Flying Dutchman 14 Grimpoteuthis 26, 241 fying fsh roe 120 grissini 112, 256 fying squid 58, 72, 73, 103, 107, 110, 120, 137, gyotaku 205, 247, 260 186, 193, 194, 241, 242 ‘foie gras’ from the sea 140, 142–143 folate 87 H 24, 63, 72, 227, 234 Hafgufa 7 Fortune Bay 8 Hanlon, Roger T. 35, 237 3, 24, 25, 41, 238 Hapalochlaena spp. 18, 41, 241 freezing 18, 97, 102, 107, 205 hashi 121, 256 fregula 221 hatchlings 25, 72, 229, 232 Freiduria Las Flores I 154 Hawaiian bobtail squid 241 frog 34, 183 health risks 91 Fukuoka 58 hearts 3, 15, 28, 30, 32, 46, 56, 200 future food 230, 235 heavy metals 91 hectocotylus 20, 43, 247 Helluland 7 G hemocyanin 46, 247 galangal 196 hemoglobin 46, 248 Galicia 117, 156–157, 229 hepatopancreas 30, 56, 91, 200, 248 garum 117 histamine 90 gastro-lab 198, 202, 247 histidine 90 gastrophysics 197–224 Historia Animalium 7, 53 gelatine 103, 104, 140, 143 Hodgkin, Alan Lloyd 33 Gelb, David 106 Hokusai, Katsushika 12, 13 genome 63 Homer 7 genus 19, 21, 32, 45, 103, 233 hormone signal 58 giant cranch squid 242 horned octopus 241 giant squid 7–12, 18, 26, 41, 43–45, 62, hot dog 177, 178 90, 242 huevos de choco 156, 256 gills 28, 29, 32, 46, 53–55, 96, 200 Hugo, Victor 12 ginger 116, 117, 165–167, 196, 223 Humboldt squid 26, 51, 241 gladius 21 Huxley, Andrew Fielding 33 glands 18, 56, 98, 156, 200, 221 hydrolysis 104, 248 –– See also nidamental glands hydrostat, muscular 47–49, 60, 248 273 F–M Index

I Khmer cuisine 192 kimchi 110, 256 ichiya-boshi 136, 137, 256 kingdom iconography 12–15 –– Animalia 240, 243 Idiosepius thailandicus 18, 241 –– Aragon 117 ika Koh Rong 186, 192 –– no ichiya-boshi 135–137, 256 koji 204 –– sashimi 120–123 kokumi 109, 257 –– ika-sōmen 120 konbu 257 –– sushi 107, 119, 214 Korea 110 ikebana 121, 248 Kraken 7, 8, 248 72, 241 kroeung 194–196, 257 Imperadore, Pamela 68 Kuniyoshi, Utagawa 261 ink, cephalopod –– colour 53 –– in food 112 L –– sac 112 laboratory animals 67, 198 –– tenderizing 108 lardo 222, 257 ‘inkfsh,’ 2, 53 last common ancestor 37 innards 3, 4, 28, 52, 56, 73, 91, 94, 97–99, lead 4, 18, 38, 67, 88, 90, 91, 106, 109, 109–113, 144, 145, 150, 151, 165, 198, 226 168, 169, 183, 184, 186, 191, 209, leucophore 57, 59 222, 223 life cycle 86, 228–233 intelligence 15, 29–32, 35–37, 66, 236, 237 ligula 43 International Space Station 73 lime leaves 146, 191, 194–196, 257 intestine 11, 56, 80, 81, 124 liver invertebrate 18, 23, 29, 37, 46, 47, 66 –– fermentation agent 110 iridescence 59 –– as food 56 iridophore 57, 59 Lo Bianco, Salvatore 65 iron 46, 86, 98, 137 locomotion, means of Ishii, Yoshinori 121–123 –– crawling 50 ishiru 109, 256 –– jet propulsion 50 Italy 118, 159 –– swimming 50 –– walking 51 J Loligo –– L. forbesii 19, 23, 42, 52, 56, 58, 76, 89, 101, jackfruit 193 103, 106, 108, 112, 125, 146, 154, 168, 173, Japan 11, 18, 58, 73, 74, 107, 110, 117, 118, 121, 175, 183–185, 198–200, 203–208, 211, 213, 182, 228 241 Japanese common squid 242 –– L. pealei 33, 242 90, 118, 130 –– L. vulgaris 19, 103, 155, 198, 199, 213, 217, Japanese fying squid 72, 73, 109, 110, 186, 187, 242 193, 194, 242 London 10, 121, 122 137 long-fn inshore squid 242 jet propulsion 46, 50, 51, 72 long-fnned squid 89, 125, 183–196, 198 jiaoyán yóuyú 164 loomi 124 Josto 213, 222, 224 lulas grelhadas 144, 257 julienne 221, 256 Luxor 7 jumbo fying squid 103, 107, 241 Lyngbakr 7

K M Kampot pepper 191–193 macronutrients 86 katsuobushi 172, 224, 256 magnesium 87 Kep 186, 190 Mangano, Mario 213 274 Index

mantle –– fbres 48, 49, 94, 103, 106, 107, 109, 152 –– cavity 29, 52 –– hearts 47 –– fermented 110 –– mantle 28–29 –– as food 94 –– siphon 52–53 –– muscles 29 –– skin,62 –– products 110 –– suckers 44–45 –– size 18, 195 –– structure 32, 50, 57, 60, 103, 107, 108, 152 –– squid rings 152 –– tentacles 41–43 –– stuffed 98 –– texture 102 –– tenderized 99 –– See also muscular hydrostat; proteins marinating 95, 118, 135, 204 muscovado sugar 161 marine pollution 227 muscular hydrostat 47, 49, 60 marine resources 74, 78, 227 –– See also hydrostat master of disguises 56–61 2, 40, 86, 87, 167 Maher, Jennifer 35 Myopsida 19, 20, 240 mating 26, 43 mythology 14 mayonnaise 81, 101, 137, 140, 143, 150–151, 153 McGee, Harold 108, 109 mechanoreceptor 45 N Mediterranean 72, 78, 81, 83, 86, 91, 94, 105, Naples 63, 64, 96, 128, 129 107, 112, 128, 154–162, 212, 215, 241, 242 Naturalis Historia 7 Medusa 14 Nautilida 19, 21 melanin 53 Nautiloidea 238, 240 membrane(s) 33, 111 Nautiluses 2, 3, 19, 21, 24, 25, 28, 240 memory 34, 36, 54 Nautilus sp. 13, 21, 238, 241, 242 Mercato de San Benedetto 213 Nautilus, submarine 13, 21, 238, 241, 242 mercury 91 Nemo, Captain 13, 14 Mesonychoteuthis hamiltoni 18, 62, 242 Neocoleoidea 240 Messenger, John B. 237 neocortex 29, 236 Mexican four-eyed octopus 242 nerve Mexico 11, 75, 229 –– cell 33, 38, 44, 68 micronutrients 86 –– fbre 32, 39, 44 microscopy 200 –– giant 32 Middle Ages 117 –– optical 31 mimic octopus 61, 242 –– regeneration 69 mind 8, 28, 36, 37, 41, 83, 104, 128, 186, 237 –– system 15, 28, 29, 31, 32, 37, 44, 45, 63, 65, minerals 22, 86, 87, 94 68, 107 mirin 111, 130, 165, 166, 257 –– toxin 37, 40 miso 108, 111, 135 nervous system, distributed 107 mobility See locomotion nessa 214, 215 mollusc 18, 41, 86 neuron 32–34 Mollusca 2, 18, 23, 34, 240 neurotransmitter 54 monosodium glutamate (MSG) 191 Newfoundland 8 Morocco 41 New Nordic cuisine 223 Motril 77, 80, 82 nidamental glands 56, 94, 98, 156, 200, 221 mouth nigiri-sushi 119, 120 –– buccal mass 42, 200 nimono 118 –– parts 3, 30, 43, 144, 148, 149, 178, 183 Nishihare, Sakiko 121 mouthfeel 3, 15, 86, 95, 102, 110, 123, 193 Nissui 229 muscles noni 194, 195 –– arms 41–43 Nora 213–215, 217, 218 –– buccal mass 42, 200 Nordic Food Lab 212 –– chromatophores 57–59 nori 119–122, 178 –– control 49 North Atlantic squid 241 275 M–P Index

North Pacifc giant octopus 16, 241 osmotic pressure 88 North Sea 76, 199, 210 oxygen transport 46 Norway 7 2, 34, 167, 183, 184 nucleotide 88 Nueva Pescanova Group 229 nutrients in cephalopods 86–87 P Pacifc fying squid 58, 120, 137, 242 Pacojet 206, 207 O pane carasau 206–208 octopod 20 panko 152–154, 168 Octopodiformes 20, 240 paper argonaut 21, 241 Octopus papillae 60 –– ability to escape predators, captivity 56 paralarvae 228 –– aquaculture 228–230 Parmigiano-Reggiano 168, 258 –– boiled 144 passing cloud display 60 –– cleaning 97 pasta 55, 109, 175, 177–179, 181, 220, 221 –– colours 39, 53 peptide 106, 243 –– cooking water 140–142 Permian Period 24 –– dried 136, 138 personality 34, 35 –– fsheries 74 75, 134 –– food culture 116 pescado frito 154 –– glazed 140–143 pescaíto frito 154–163 –– ink 54 pesce crudo 118, 119, 123 –– intelligence 36 peschiera 213, 218 –– maya 75, 240, 242 Peschiera della laguna di Nora 213, 218 –– nutrient contents 86 Pham, Cuong 188 –– populations 234 Phoenicians 154, 214 –– raw 118 phosphorous content 214 –– reproduction 20, 41 photoactive organ 61 –– research 33, 62, 65, 67 photophore 61 –– salad 102, 130, 132–133 photoreceptor 62 –– sashimi 102 Phu Quo 188, 189 –– smoked 172 phylum 2, 18, 23, 240 –– sushi 119 Picasso, Pablo 12 –– taste 142 Piccot, Theophilus 8, 9 –– tenderizing 102, 205 piquillo pepper 169, 170, 258 –– tentacles 19, 20 Pirates of the Caribbean 14 –– texture 3, 57, 102 plankton 25, 72, 228, 229 –– vulgaris 19, 31, 45, 61, 75, 80, 104, 105, 119, plant-based diet 237 129, 136, 140, 142, 215, 228, 229 plastic pollution 83 –– weight 31 Pliny the Elder 7 –– wolf 19, 242 polarized light 39, 60 Octopussy 14 polbo á feira 258 Odyssey 7, 36 Polese, Gianluca 26, 63 Oegopsida 19, 240 Pomata, Luigi 215 Ollano, Guiseppe 213 pompia 222 Ommastrephidae 75 ponzu 117, 124, 130, 137, 147 Oppian of Anazarbus 6 populations of cephalopods 46 opsin 62, 250 Porta Nolana 64, 128, 129 optic lobe 31, 62 Portugal 75, 144 order 19, 21, 34, 37, 47, 50, 57, 63, 66, 84, 89, Portunus pelagicus 190 99, 103, 116, 222, 228, 232, 250 potassium 91 Øresund 9 potera 84, 251 Örvar-Oddr’s saga 7 pressure cooker 102, 105, 106, 140 oryza cystein protease 110 proline 88 276 Index

protease 109, 110 sea monk 9 protein selenium 86 –– content 86 sensors 3 –– fbres 108 sensory science 29, 45, 62 provenance 74 Sepia See cuttlefsh Pula 219 Sepia offcinalis 19, 22, 40, 73, 125, 129, 156, pulpo 212, 217, 218, 230, 242 –– aliñad 156 242 –– a la Gallega 156, 157 Sepioidea 19, 20, 240 puntarella 223, 258 Sepiola 242 puntillitas 155 Seto Inland Sea 117, 118 Punt reliefs, vi shaoxing wine 258 pupils 39, 210 shell 21, 24, 28, 32, 40, 48, 57 pygmy squid 241 shichimi 110, 136 shiokara 109–112, 204 shunga 12, 13 Q Silurian period 24 quality control 74 siphon 29, 30, 46, 50–53, 99, 146, 175, quartz 24 178, 183, 200 –– muscles 200 skin R –– colours 57 –– sperm whale 11, 12 radula 40, 41 –– texture 57 raspy tongue 40, 44 skull 30, 48 rau dang 187, 258 smell, sense of 64 raw 3, 4, 15, 86, 95, 96, 98, 102, 104, 107, 110, smoking 95, 203, 204 117–131, 155, 198, 205, 218–222 snack 81, 101, 137, 138, 173–183, 203, 205 receptors 39, 45, 62 2, 19 Renaissance 117 sodium 86, 90 rice vinegar 118, 130, 161, 178 sorbet 224 roasting 89 sous vide 105–106, 204 Roman Empire 6, 72, 116, 214 72, 118 Romans 6, 72, 116, 214 109, 137 Rosada, Inmaculada Carrasco 77 soy sauce 107, 117, 120, 130, 137, 161, 180 Roscoff 230, 231 Spain 7, 75, 80, 94, 117, 118, 144, 155, 156, 228 sparkling enope squid 242 species, number of 15 S spermatozoa 43 saki-ika 137, 138 sperm whale 11, 12 salmon 86, 87, 124 Spirulida 240 salt 22, 62, 73, 88, 90, 95, 97–100, 103, 105–110, 9 124, 126, 132, 136, 140, 142, 145, 148, 150, squid 153, 156, 158, 159, 161, 165–167, 169–170, –– canned 216 174, 178, 180, 184, 186, 187, 189, 191, 193, –– cleaning 97 194, 200, 201, 203, 204, 207 –– collagen structure 200 sanbaizu 130, 131 –– colour 39, 46 Sandolo, Amerigo 214 –– distribution 46, 242 san-nakji 32, 118, 258 –– feather 21, 46, 48 206, 212, 214, 216 –– fsheries 74 sashimi 58, 73, 100, 102, 107, 117, 118, 120, –– fried 95, 164, 165 121, 123 –– grilled 144, 147, 177, 184, 185 Scotland 121 –– ink 127, 142, 143, 151, 158, 176, 177, 181, Scylla and Charybdis 7 182, 203–205 sea cucumbers 79, 80 –– nutrient contents 86 277 P–V Index

–– pen 94, 165, 184 Technical University of Denmark 212 –– raw 107, 138 tempura 117 –– smoked 3, 73, 138 tenderizing –– stuffed 167–171 –– acids and salt 102, 108–109 –– sushi 100, 106, 119 –– enzymes 108 –– taste 4, 45, 53, 88 –– freezing 107 –– tenderized 99, 102, 103 –– heat 103–105 –– tentacles 18, 20, 30, 41, 43 –– mechanical 106–107 –– texture 102, 103, 198 –– pressure 105–106 squid rings 3, 95, 152, 153, 155, 165 –– sous vide 105–106 ‘Squid Squad’ 197–224 tentacles 2, 18–20, 24, 26, 30, 41–45, 49, 55, 94, Starr, Ringo 25 98, 101, 111, 113, 144, 153, 158, 167–170, star-sucker pygmy octopus 242 175, 177, 183, 205, 206, 240 Station Biologique de Roscoff 230, 231 tetrodoxin 18 Stazione Zoologica Anton Dohrn 64, 65 Teuthida 19 steaming 162, 193 teuthis 244, 253 Steenstrup, Japetus 9, 11, 261 texture Steinbeck, John 15 –– analysis 200 Stichopus regalis 79 –– of cephalopods 210 stomach 11, 12, 30, 56, 186 –– measurement 18 storing cephalopods 93–114 –– of muscles 49, 51 structural interference 60 –– tenderizing 102 stuffed cephalopods 97, 167 Thailand 18, 73, 75, 90, 193 su 112, 113, 130 Thaumoctopus mimicus 61, 242 suckers thunderstone 24 –– for food 45 Todarodes –– load carrying capacity 44 –– T. pacifcus 19, 58, 72, 73, 109, 110, 120, 137, –– number of 34 139, 186–187, 194, 242 sudako tako 130 –– T. sagittatus 242, 260 sugar 87, 107, 134, 167, 177, 178, 182, 186, 187, trawl fshing 78, 80 191, 194–196, 207 Triassic period 24 surimi 107 trimethylamine 88, 89 surume 110, 137, 138 trimethylaminoxide 88–90, 253 sushi 3, 58, 74, 100, 106, 107, 118–120, 214 ‘true cephalopods’ 240 sustainability 199, 225–238 Tsuji, Shizuo 131 swimming turbot 120 –– bell 50 Tye, Michael 236 –– jet propelled 29, 33 tyrosinase 53 –– speed 3, 33, 43 synapse 32, 252 systemic heart 30, 46 U umami –– in cephalopods 88, 130 T –– from fermentation 109, 110, 130, 135 Taishokan 14 Umu 121, 122 tako United Nations (UN) 233 –– day 117 Università degli Studi de Napoli Federico II 63 –– sushi 107, 119 University of Copenhagen 198 –– yaki 117 62, 242 V Taning’s octopus squid 242 tapas 84, 155 Vampyromorphida (vampire squid) 240, 253 tartare 123, 125, 126 vegan 237 Taste for Life 198, 209–224 vegetarian 237 taste of cephalopods 90 veined squid 241 278 Index

ventresca 216, 259 web 50, 91, 128, 229 Verne, Jules 13, 14 ‘weeds of the sea’ 233–234 vertebrates 38, 47, 66, 94, 235 whale 7, 9, 11, 12, 22 Vibrio fscheri 61 ‘whale scale,’ 22 90, 186–188 white spotted octopus 128, 215, 241 vision 39 wok 100, 164–167 vitamins 87 Y W yōkan 182, 260 wakame 142, 143, 260 Yucatán 75 walking 19, 51 yuzu 110, 130, 131, 136, 260 –– See also locomotion Walton, Izaac 183 wasabi 110, 117, 120, 260 Z Watasenia scintillans 110, 242 zajin chao xianyou 164, 260 water content 202 zinc 86, 91 water loss 101 Zola, Émile 12