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PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 34 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips

North p100

Around p36 Manila p82 Southeast p181 Luzon p154

The Visayas p200 p370

Mindanao & Sulu p329

PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO 435 GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

Directory A–Z ...... 436 Transport ...... 443 Language

Tagalog, Pilipino, Filipino – the various lan- guage names might cause confusion, but Health ...... 449 Magandáng ma·gan·da they reÁ ect the political history of the lingua franca across the 7000-island archipelago araw pô. (pol) a·row po’ of the . Although not the mother Magandáng ma·gan·dan tongue of every Philippine citizen, Filipino (inf) a·row is spoken as a second language throughout Paalam na pô. (pol) pa·a·lam na Language ...... 455 the country (with over 165 other languages), (inf) ba·bai and is an o՗ cial language used for university instruction and in most legal, business and (pol) o·po’ governmental transactions (the other o (inf) o·o language being English). It belongs to the Hindí pô. (pol) heen·dee Malayo-Polynesian language family and has (inf) heen·de around 45 million speakers worldwide. Index ...... 467 Salamat pô. (pol) sa·la·m Filipino is easy to pronounce and most sounds are familiar to English speakers. In Salamat. (inf) sa·la ddition, the relationship between Filipino Walá pong w nds and their spelling is straightforward anumán. (pol) onsistent, meaning that each letter is Map Legend ...... 478 ronounced the same way. If you read anumán. (inf) d pronunciation guides as if they ou’ll be understood just ounced as in ‘aisle’, nded lips,

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Greg Bloom, Michael Grosberg, Trent Holden, Adam Karlin, Kate Morgan Look out for these icons: Our author’s A green or No payment o recommendation S sustainable option F required

MANILA ...... 36 Bolinao & Patar Beach . . .106 Caramoan Peninsula . . . . . 161 CITY OF MANILA Hundred Islands Legazpi ...... 163 (DOWNTOWN) ...... 37 National Park ...... 107 Tabaco ...... 168 PARAÑAQUE & PASAY . . . . . 57 Lingayen ...... 108 Sorsogon ...... 168 San Fernando MAKATI ...... 61 Bulusan Volcano National (La Union) & Around . . . . .108 Park & Around ...... 169 QUEZON CITY ...... 71 ILOCOS ...... 111 Donsol ...... 169 ...... 111 Matnog ...... 171 AROUND MANILA . . . .82 Laoag ...... 116 MASBATE ...... 171 CORREGIDOR ...... 84 Pagudpud & Around . . . . . 118 Masbate Town ...... 173 SOUTH OF MANILA ...... 84 THE CORDILLERA ...... 119 ...... 174 Las Piñas ...... 85 Baguio ...... 121 Island ...... 174 Kawit...... 85 Kabayan ...... 129 ...... 175 Calamba ...... 85 Sagada & Around ...... 131 Virac ...... 176 Tagaytay & Lake Taal ...... 85 Bontoc ...... 135 West Coast ...... 177 Taal ...... 88 Kalinga Province ...... 137 ...... 177 Batangas ...... 88 Banaue ...... 138 Boac ...... 178 Anilao ...... 89 Kiangan ...... 143 Pagsanjan ...... 91 Gasan & West Coast . . . . .179 THE NORTHEAST ...... 144 Lucban ...... 92 Buenavista & Around . . . . .180 Baler & Around ...... 144 Lucena ...... 92 Poctoy & East Coast . . . . .180 Santiago City ...... 147 NORTH OF MANILA ...... 93 Northern Sierra Madre MINDORO ...... 181 Olongapo & Subic Bay . . . .93 Natural Park ...... 147 MINDORO ORIENTAL . . . . . 183 San Fernando Tuguegarao ...... 148 Puerto Galera ...... 183 () ...... 96 Babuyan Islands ...... 149 Angeles & Clark Airport . . .97 Calapan ...... 191 ...... 149 Mt Pinatubo ...... 98 Roxas ...... 192 Batan Island ...... 150 Bulalacao ...... 193 Sabtang Island ...... 152 NORTH LUZON . . . . .100 MINDORO OCCIDENTAL . . 194 Itbayat Island ...... 152 COAST ...... 101 San José ...... 194 Pundaquit & SOUTHEAST LUZON 154 Mt Iglit-Baco Capones Island ...... 101 National Park ...... 195 Lake Mapanuepe ...... 104 BICOL ...... 155 Calintaan ...... 196 Iba & Botolan ...... 104 Daet & Bagasbas ...... 155 Sablayan ...... 196 North of Iba ...... 105 Naga ...... 158 Abra de Ilog ...... 199 Mt Isarog National Park . . 161 LINGAYEN GULF ...... 105 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

THE VISAYAS . . . . . 200 Larena & Around ...... 291 Balingoan ...... 346 ...... 201 Bandila-an Nature Butuan ...... 346 Centre & the Caves . . . . . 292 Cebu City ...... 201 Surigao ...... 347 San Juan & Around . . . . . 293 Mactan Island ...... 216 ...... 350 Lazi & Around ...... 294 Olango Island & Around . .218 SOUTHERN . . . 354 Toledo ...... 219 ...... 294 Davao ...... 354 Danao ...... 219 Tagbilaran ...... 295 General Santos Bantayan Island ...... 219 Panglao Island ...... 298 (Dadiangas) ...... 363 Malapascua Island ...... 221 Balicasag Island ...... 301 Lake Sebu ...... 364 Moalboal ...... 224 Cabilao Island ...... 302 Cotabato ...... 364 Argao ...... 227 Bohol Interior ...... 302 ZAMBOANGA PENINSULA ...... 365 Lilo-an & Sumilon Pamilacan Island ...... 305 Island ...... 228 Bohol’s Coastal Road . . . 305 Zamboanga & Around . . . 365 CAMOTES ISLANDS ...... 228 ...... 307 SULU ISLANDS ...... 368 Pacijan Island ...... 229 Northern Leyte ...... 309 Poro Island ...... 230 Southern Leyte ...... 314 PALAWAN ...... 370 Ponson Island ...... 230 ISLAND ...... 318 CENTRAL PALAWAN . . . . . 373 Naval...... 319 Puerto Princesa & ROMBLON ...... 230 Around ...... 373 North of Naval ...... 319 ...... 232 Sabang & Around ...... 381 Romblon Island...... 234 East & South of Naval . . . 320 SOUTHERN PALAWAN . . .383 ...... 237 West of Naval ...... 320 Narra ...... 383 ...... 320 ...... 239 Quezon ...... 384 Northern Samar ...... 321 Iloilo ...... 241 Rizal ...... 384 Western Samar ...... 323 ...... 246 Brooke’s Point...... 384 Antique Province ...... 249 Eastern & NORTHERN PALAWAN . . .384 Caticlan ...... 250 Southern Samar ...... 325 Port Barton & Around . . . 385 Boracay ...... 251 MINDANAO & Taytay & Around ...... 387 Kalibo ...... 265 SULU ...... 329 El Nido ...... 388 Roxas (Capiz) ...... 267 NORTHERN MINDANAO . .334 Bacuit Archipelago ...... 394 NEGROS ...... 268 de Oro ...... 334 CALAMIAN GROUP ...... 395 Negros Occidental ...... 270 Malaybalay & Around . . . 339 Coron Town & Busuanga Negros Oriental ...... 281 Iligan ...... 340 Island ...... 396 ...... 289 Marawi & Lake Lanao . . . 340 Coron Island ...... 402 Siquijor Town ...... 291 ...... 341 Island & Around . . 402 › The Philippines Top Experiences ›

0 100 km Batanes Islands 0 60 miles Ifugao Rice Terraces 118ºE 122ºE 126ºE ELEVATION Ogle the ‘eighth wonder of the world’ (p141) 20ºN

1500m Sagada 1000m North Luzon’s 500m cradle of cool (p131) Babuyan Islands 200m 0 Babuyan Channel

Aparri Santa Ana Laoag Kabugao Gonzaga Gattaran S O U T H Vigan Luzon Tuguegarao Manila Party all night C H I N A Tabuk in the capital (p36) Sagada Mt Amuyao Ilagan S E A Bontoc (2702m) Palanan Banaue Hundred IslandsSan Fernando Mt Pulag National Park (2922m) Dinapigue La Trinidad Bicol Bolinao Baguio Casiguran Whale sharks and Mt Mayon beckon (p155) Dagupan Pantabangan Lake San Carlos Baler 16ºN Cabanatuan Philippine Sea Apo Reef Angeles Mt Pinatubo Polillo Islands The Philippines’ (1450m) San Fernando ultimate dive site (p196) Olongapo Balanga MANILA Lamon Bay Mariveles Laguna Calagua Islands Lake de Bay Catanduanes Island Daet Lubang Taal Lucena Island Boracay Anilao Batangas Naga Boac Virac Lounge on legendary Calapan Mt Mayon Bicol White Beach (p251) Puerto Galera Burias Marinduque Mamburao Mindoro Island Legazpi Pinamalayan Sibuyan Sea Sorsogon Apo Reef Mindoro Sablayan Tablas Romblon Island Catarman Laoang Siargao Island Bulan Busuanga Roxas Sibuyan Cloud Nine has no equal for surfing (p352) Island Island Masbate Samar Coron Strait San José Boracay Island Calbayog Masbate 12ºN Calamian Group Caticlan Culion Catbalogan Roxas Philippines Bacuit Archipelago Island Semirara Visayan Borongan Islands Kalibo Biliran Cruise past secluded beaches Sea Island Palawan Panay and pristine lagoons (p394) El Nido Visayas Tacloban Cuyo Islands San Jose de Iloilo Ormoc Trench Taytay Bay Buenavista Silay Taytay City Leyte Homonhon Bacolod Baybay Island Port Jordan San Carlos Palawan Dumaran Passage Barton Guimaras Mt Kanlaon Island (2465m) Maasin Bohol Interior Roxas Toledo Cebu City Island See the tarsiers and Kabankalan Padre Burgos Siargao Chocolate Hills (p294) Cebu Bohol Island Puerto Princesa Sipilay Surigao Negros Cagayan Tagbilaran Mindanao Sea Lake Mainit Quezon Narra Islands Siquijor Camiguin Dumaguete Island Island Tandag Mt Mantalingajan Butuan (2086m) Brooke's Point Dipolog Oroquieta Cagayan Prosperidad de Oro Island Tubbataha Reefs Liloy Iligan Malaybalay Bislig sula nin Pe Pagadian Lake a Siquijor g Lanao n Ipil 8ºN a Seek out sand o Mindanao b and shamans (p289) m Mt Apo Tagum Caraga a Cotabato Z (2954m) Cagayan Moro Gulf Kidapawan Davao Mati Sulu Island Zamboanga Alah Valley Isabela Davao Lake Digos Bay Turtle Islands Pangutaran Buluan Island Island Malita Island General Santos Alabel Sandakan Jolo Mindanao Sea Glan Camiguin M A L A Y S I A Tawi-Tawi Island Frolic in this playground (Sabah) for adventurers (p341) Bongao Sulu Archipelago I N D O N E S I A

Celebes Sea Contributing Authors Kate Morgan As a commissioning editor at Lonely Planet in Melbourne, Kate’s job involves shipping authors off to exotic locations. Also working as a freelance writer and editor, she thought it was time to fi nally experience life on the road. After island-hopping on bangkas and gorging on fresh seafood in Cebu, she hopes it won’t be her last authoring trip.

OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Greg Bloom Coordinating Author, Manila, Around Manila, Mindoro, The Visayas Greg lived in Manila for fi ve years before moving to Phnom Penh in 2009. He has travelled all over the country in the service of Lonely Planet, experiencing many highs (div- ing Apo Reef, whalesharking in Donsol, spelunking in Samar) and lows (fl ying off out of a moving jeepney, surviving a bus crash in Bicol, being pickpocketed on the MRT) along the way. When not writing about his favourite travel destina- tion, Greg might be found snouting around the former Soviet Union (he once called Kyiv home) or running around Asia’s ultimate frisbee fi elds. Read about his trips at www.mytripjournal.com/ bloomblogs. Read more about Greg at: lonelyplanet.com/members/gbloom4 Michael Grosberg Palawan, Mindanao & Sulu This is the fourth edition of the Lonely Planet Philip- pines guidebook Michael has worked on. He’s returned for various magazine as- signments and loves travelling in the PI as much for the friends he’s made along the way as the physical beauty of the islands. A reformed academic/journalist by trade, Michael has worked on over 17 Lonely Planet books and is based in Brook- lyn, New York. Read more about Michael at: lonelyplanet.com/members/michaelgrosberg

Trent Holden The Visayas Despite being a regular visitor to , the Visayas is a region that’s eluded Trent till now. It was well worth the wait. Exploring its eclectic islands via an endless connection of bangkas, habal-habals and jeepneys, he rates it right up there with some of the best beaches and friendliest people he’s encoun- tered anywhere in the world. Trent lives in Melbourne where he works as a free- lance writer and editor. He’s obsessed with AFL footy and everything punk rock. This is his fourth book for Lonely Planet, having co-authored titles such as India and Indonesia.

Adam Karlin North Luzon, Southeast Luzon Adam admittedly ran into some frustrations in the Philippines. Major rains, typhoons and mudslides all came together to serve up the worst weather ever experienced on a Lonely Planet research trip. He blew a tyre out on his car at midnight in the middle of nowhere, Zambales. His wallet and passport got lifted while he was on his way to the airport. And yet – he loved the place. How can you not? The scenery is Edenic, there’s giant lizards carved into dark wooden doors and the people are as friendly as all get out. Adam has authored or con- tributed to over 25 guidebooks for Lonely Planet. Read more about Adam at: OVER MORE lonelyplanet.com/members/adamkarlin PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 11th edition – May 2012 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 694 0 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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