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Western Anatolia

Includes  Why Go? İznik ...... 282 Durable, diverse and down to earth, Western Anatolia com­ Bursa ...... 285 bines everything from ancient sites and mountain terrain to some of ’s heartiest food and friendliest people. Mudanya ...... 294 The region’s diversity of ancient civilisations can be experi­ Uludağ...... 295 enced directly: hike the rock-carved Phrygian Valley, pound Eskişehir ...... 296 marble pavements in the ancient cities of Sagalassos and Phrygian Valley. . . 299 Afrodisias, or take a woodland pilgrimage on the St Paul Trail. Kütahya...... 301 Original Ottoman capital Bursa, meanwhile, is a cornerstone of Turkish identity, with mosques, imperial mausoleums and Afyon (Afyonkarahisar) . . 302 the İskender kebap. The shimmering travertines of Pamuk­ kale, on the other hand, are just great for splashing in. Pamukkale. . . . . 304 The region’s lesser-known attractions constitute its secret Afrodisias ...... 312 weapon, however: escapist Eğirdir, set on a tranquil lake, Lake District. . . . .314 is perfect for hiking, a jaunt in a local fisherman’s boat or Eğirdir...... 314 doing nothing at all; while vibrant Eskişehir, a student city Sagalassos . . . . . 320 with an atmospheric old town, offers river gondola rides and happening bars and restaurants.

Best Places to When to Go Bursa Eat °C/°F Te mp Rainfall Inches/mm ¨¨Kebapçı İskender (p292) 40/104 5/125 ¨¨Köfteci Yusuf (p284) 30/86 4/100 20/68 ¨¨Memphis (p298) 3/75 10/50 2/50 0/32 1/25 -10/14

Best Places to -20/-4 0 Stay J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨¨Kitap Evi (p291) Jan & Feb Breathe May Fresh and Sep Enjoy Pamuk- ¨¨Charly’s Pension (p317) in the alpine air sunny weather for kale’s crystal ¨¨Melrose House (p309) while skiing on hiking and explor- travertines, with- Uludağ, near ing ruins around out the summer Bursa. mountain-ringed crowds. Lake Eğirdir. ) 281 E89 Western Anatolia Anatolia Highlights 0 miles Ilgîn Ankara Ankara 0 km (150km Sazîlar Bolu Yunak Seben Beyšehir Doÿanhisar Beypazarî Tuzlukçu Çeltik Mihalîççîk Argîthanî Sarîyar Dam a ). Gölü u Mudurn Šarkikaraaÿaç Beyšehir Gölü Düzce Yaylaköy Akšehir Sivrihisar Baÿkonak Beylikov Gölü Abant Yalvaç Emirdaÿ Eber Gölü Dam Çifteler Adada 04 06 Aspendos (30km) Akšehir Gökçekaya Sütcüler Zîndan Maÿarasî Caltepe Gelendost y Sultandaÿî (980m) y Bolu Daÿi Bolu Kovada Gölü Milli Parkî Alpu Ça Wind through the bazaars the bazaars through Wind Indulge in the nightlife, in the nightlife, Indulge Pisidia Phrygian Valle Eÿirdir Midas Šehri Îscehisar (Zerk) E90

Sagrak

Gölü Altînkaya ttoman quarter and all- quarter Ottoman Eskişehir of vibes good round most Anatolia’s inner (p296), city. European 7 6 and unwind in a thermal and unwind Ottoman hamam in the first (p285 Bursa capital, Eÿirdir Trail ) Gökbahçe Eskišehir

Taraklî

Kumdanlî Gazlîgöl Paul St Daÿi Antiocheia-in- Nature Park Çandîr Davraz Akyazî Îhsaniye (2653m)

Yazîlî Canyon Daÿi Sivri Înhisar Sarîcakaya Geyve (1749m Seyitgazi Gölpazarî Muttalip Afyon Kümbet Isparta s ) Aÿlasun Haydarlî Sandîklî a ), a ), Keçiborlu Îzmit Îzmit E96 Perge Bozüyük (30km Kîzîlkaya Înönü Sincanlî Sabuncu k Çamolu Pamukov Burdur Bašmakçî Sagalasso Bilecik Îznik a Dinar Gölü Altîntaš

Burdur

Osmaneli Gümüšsu Yenišehir River Dazkîrî Kütahya Korkuteli Yešilov Çavdarhisar Acîgöl Bay of Îzmit of Îzmit Bay Baškomutan

r Topçula s Îznik

Gölü

Dumlupînar Ascend the lonely heights heights the lonely Ascend Hike deep into a civilisation a civilisation deep into Hike Çavdîr

e

Tavšanlî

Historical Park r

e E24 Çivril d

Înegöl

n Afrodisias’s the tunnel onto stadium. (p312) vast lost in the desolate, rock-hewn rock-hewn in the desolate, lost (p299). Valley Phrygian 5 4 (p320 of Sagalassos ruined mountain city with a city ruined mountain fountain. rebuilt magnificent

Uludaÿ National Park e Sivaslî Kaklîk Maÿarasî M Termal Keles

Yalova k

UŠAK ü Eskihisar

Gemlik y Kaklîk

Bursa ü Aizanoi B Uludaÿ Gediz Harmancîk ), Eski Gediz Çînarcîk Orhangazi E87 rail rail Laodicea T s Pamukkale Cumalîkîzîk Çalî Ešme Acîpayam E96 Orhaneli ), beneath (p304), Mudanya aurus Mountains. Afrodisia T Çaltîlîbük Geyre Sarîgöl Kula Adasî Îmralî Hieropolis Gölü Ulubat Sea of Marmara Sea Karacabey (Marmara Denizi) (Marmara Buldan Köyceÿiz a Borlu Göktepe Dursunbey Dam Beyaÿaç Laze in calcite travertine travertine in calcite Laze Find B&B bliss by the by Find B&B bliss Channel the exhilaration of of Channel the exhilaration E90 Demirköprü Susurluk Pamukkale Pamukkale Nazilli Alašehir Bigadiç E97 Kiraz and tackle the St Paul the St Paul and tackle the through Eğirdir (p314 in Eğirdir idyllic lake a Roman gladiator, gazing from from gazing gladiator, a Roman 3 2 Western AnatoliaWestern Highlights 1 the ruins of ancient Hierapolis. the ruins of pools on the snow-white ridges ridges pools on the snow-white of Bandîrm Sultanhisar (12km); Aydîn (56km) Antîocheîa Kuš Gölü