Vol 1
THE LOUIS XV CELEBRATES 25 YEARS THE WORLD’S MOST EXPENSIVE LITTLE BLACK DRESS SIR ROGER MOORE — MORE ON MOORE STEP OUT IN STYLE IN MONACO UNWRAPPING LUXURY
Clarity, light and purity of colour drew Impressionist painters to the French Rivera. The climate charmed the English. I came to Monte Carlo for my heart.
As I write this, Nadal has just won the Monaco Tennis, the track is being laid for the Grand Prix and Top Marques is being dismantled.
Monaco is movement. The stage constantly changed for the waiting players of the next act.
Our debut issue celebrates 25 years of the Louis XV with Alain Ducasse and features the world’s most expensive frock. We glimpse Charlotte Casiraghi, meet Sir Roger Moore, share secrets on jewellery, caviar, tea, Bordeaux, fashion, perfume and restaurants.
These glimpses of perfection are key to The Art of Taste. CONTENTS CONTENTS
64 46 THE ART OF THE WORD J’aime Monaco by Alain Ducasse 8 THE ART OF FLAVOUR Bordeaux is Revisited by Oz Clarke 14 A Passion for Caviar by Susie Boeckman Writers of the Riviera by Ted Jones FEATURE Tea Time by Tracy Stern Twenty Five Years On, The Louis XV Reigns Supreme FEATURE Poppy Seed Tart by Alain Ducasse by Juliet Cullinan A Girl’s Very Best Friend by Juliet Cullinan Bordeaux by Oz Clarke Sotheby’s the Auction Perspective by Stephen Mould Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou by David Cobbold Whiskey Glenmorangie by Charles MacLean
20 80 THE ART OF LIFE THE ART OF THE BRUSH On Being Bond – More On Moore 72 Burning Rubber And Oil Paint – Private Dining for a Royal Wedding 32 THE ART OF DINING a Heady Combination by Chris Savage THE ART OF THE CLOTH Les Bacchanales, Vence by Gourmand on the Go Best-Dressed Hotels by Natalie Theo Mémére Paulette, Paris by Michael Aalders A New Wave of Luxury by Sarah Hudleston Tête de Lard, Lyon by Gourmand on the Go L’oursin Bleu, Villefranche by Gourmand on the Go
84 40 THE ART OF SHAPE 96 44 The Grand Prix by David Kennedy THE ART OF BIJOU Everest No Mean Feat by Sarah Hudleston THE ART OF VOYAGE Investing in Antique Jewellery THE ART OF FRAGRANCE Monte Carlo or Bust by Penny Palmano The Mecca of Capitalism – Hong Kong by by Sandra Cronan The Scent of a Woman by Juliet Cullinan Lotus I-Race Caroline Hurry
4 5 I have enjoyed encouragement from this impressive team of contributors and have been assisted by the Government of HSH Prince Albert II. I thank them all for their support.
CONTRIBUTORS
Juliet Cullinan – Editor Tracy Stern – Founder of one of New York’s original tea salons Founder of the premier wine festival in South Africa, host of her with shops in New York and Vancover. Her infectious energy and love own radio show, wine awards, cooking school and an international of tea have made converts to the wonderful art of tea worldwide. wine journalist. David Kennedy – Pioneer Irish racer, David is a F1 television Sarah Hudleston – Sub-Editor commentator and motorsport columnist for Ireland’s The Sunday Author of two books, a South African based journalist who specialises Independent. in arts and culture feature writing. Ted Jones – Has published on wide ranging subjects, his short Oz Clarke – Quite simply one of the world’s leading wine experts, stories and poetry have won a number of awards. Oz is the author of several wine books, TV programmes and winner of almost every major international wine writing award in the UK Penny Palmano – Vintage car rally enthusiast and author of two and the US. best-selling books: ‘Yes, please, Thanks!’ and ‘Yes, please. Whatever!’
Charles MacLean – Master of the Quaich, heralded by Susie Boeckmann – Co-author of ‘Passion for Caviar’ and The Times as “Scotland’s leading whisky expert”. Author, chairman ‘Caviar’, Susie also writes, makes TV and Radio appearances on of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society and Founding editor of Whisky her subject. Magazine Charles also hosts the TV channel www.singlemalt.tv. Michael Aalders – An art dealer who has a love of lunch, Natalie Theo, Contributor – Russian Vogue so much so that he has had two books published on the subject. journalist, fashion editor at the Daily Mail, Natalie’s blog is www.thefashionchronicles.com and is a stylist for dressipi.com. Caroline Hurry – Award-winning freelance travel journalist, columnist, editor and author who hosts www.travelwrite.co.za. Sandra Cronan – Jewellery dealer for over 35 years, member of the British Antique Dealers Association and one of London’s Cover Photography – Josh Carroll, all garments from the Black Diamond Range by Debbie Wingham
David Cobbold, Contributor – Author and co-author of Design & Art Direction by Provenance Agency 15 books on wine, David is also a broadcaster and teacher. www.provenanceagency.com
The Art of Taste 13 Boulevard de Belgique Monaco MC 98000 www.theartoftastemc.eu [email protected] +33 6 80 86 60 55
6 7 MONTE CARLO THE ART OF TASTE
TWENTY FIVE YEARS ON – THE LOUIS XV REIGNS SUPREME
Juliet Cullinan delights in the Art of the finest
8 9 n May 1987 Alain Ducasse Ducasse spurred to early and Italy that I have concentrated unveiled what is considered success by Prince Rainier my Riviera. Today I know that this I region, that serenades the sun, has the globe – The Louis XV at the Hô- When the Louis XV first opened inspired all my cooking. Its strength tel de Paris in Monaco. Set in the Prince Rainier III of Monaco and and honesty are drawn from the Casino Square, next to the Opéra the Monte Carlo SBM challenged earth.” Salle Garnier, opposite the Café him to win a three-Michelin-star de Paris, this Belle Époque land- restaurant within four years. Duca- Ducasse learned at a young age that mark with its wooden revolving sse, only 33 years at the time, com- doors continues to swirl celebri- pleted this daunting task a mere 33 from the quality of the produce. His ties from the famous Square into months later. It is not surprising success is serving these simple yet this distinguished and legendary that the he culinary philosophy of sensational dishes in the tranquillity hotel. this great chef is “to interpret with of this elegant, luxurious décor. measure and humility what nature Entering this gracious Monaco has offered and to exalt the truth in - landmark is like entering a beauti- all produce without impairing it, to ents harvested from Nice to Liguria, ful Cathedral. The grandeur, el- search for the source of the flavour.” his Mediterranean dishes appear egance and beauty simple yet are made of the architecture from hours of tech- with its harmonious nique to create the proportions are awe inspiring. The fra- perfect textures, soft grance of the room consistency of sauces emanating partly and al dente vegeta- from a pyramid of bles. soft buzz of multilin- Local producers gual conversations, praised lull one into a calm excitement of ex- Ducasse is fulsome pectation. This set- in his praise of lo- ting is rare, unique cal food producers, and special and you “Thanks to authen- feel honoured to be tic greengrocers, there. farmers, breeders, The Louis XV, and mushroom gath- which this year celebrates its Silver Ducasse speaks of his love of the erers, we have the privilege to present Jubilee, is the ultimate destination for region. At 23 years of age, Ducasse the best produce which we treat with - experienced what he calls a “second all the respect it deserves. For this sse. He is a chef who served his ap- birth” when he discovered the qual- reason, each dish has its own story prenticeship with the greats – Michel ity of Mediterranean produce grown and each provider its reason to con- Guérard, Roger Vergé and Alain on arid land, olive oil to which he tinue his quest for beauty.” Chapel who taught and inspired him could show the same deference as to be what he is today. wine and a sea teeming with rock The setting of the Louis VX adds - to the dining experience. The Ver- Today Ducasse is perhaps the most ple dishes with the produce as cen- sailles inspired spacious, double celebrated chef of traditional French tre stage.”There are no complicated volume dining room sets the scene. cuisine. Ducasse is applauded inter- creations: I do not sublimate the pro- Large gold Baroque mirrors and fres- nationally for being one of the most duce, they are centre stage.” - each of the panelled walls. While Ba- Ducasse is also on record saying: roque in style, the soft golden cream cooking schools for public and chefs “My encounter with Monaco was a have carried his gastronomic wisdom magical and important moment in china, crystal glasses and the stalac- to far distant lands. my life. It is here between France tites of crystal chandeliers suspended
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from the frescoed ceiling with its gold the other to carefully sculpt a curl lay- Each step of the service is carefully Remo is tender and powerful. The wine and food pairing. We toast the The Louis XV 25th anniversary leaf corners have quiet elegant tones. ing it down to rest on its own platter monitored by Dominique Lory, the is also being celebrated in other - alongside that of the salted type. The head of the Louis XV kitchens, Nico- consommé. It would no doubt have - Alain Ducasse restaurants around second trolley displays breads of vary- las Cailleaud, head pastry chef, Noël vours adding to our enjoyment. The the world: New York, St Petersburg, room providing privacy for the din- ing sizes, colours and shapes. Of note Bajor head sommelier and Michel this complexity. The thick bubbles of M.L. Carillon Puligny-Montrachet Hong Kong, Las Vegas, Paris and ers. It is completely “other world” in are thin slivers of bread pastry with Lang restaurant manager. Talented the caviar are a perfect complement. London with a Rivera-inspired dish atmosphere. and discreet Franck Cerutti, one of and the Louis XV signature dessert, and leaves. Alain Ducasse’s closest and most The Loup de Méditerranée with whilst the Provençal wines are bet- the Baba au rhum comme à Monte Trolley heaven faithful chefs adds to the success of olives, asparagus and herbs gives ter with the food rather than on their Carlo. The lunch menu is priced at A third trolley arrives silently with its the Louis XV by conveying his phi- own. The Forteto Pian Dei Sogni Central to the impeccable service is aromatic display of round to conical losophy and dedication to the Niçois grapefruit and Campari is a must - the use of trolleys on which large dis- chèvre cheeses of varying ripeness, and Italian terroir. highlighting its elegant, crisp, ruby - well worth it. plays can be wheeled around to show- while the last trolley is piled high with case mouth-watering offerings from aux noisettes du Piémont displays every angle. tiny beads of condensation adorning - When I left the restaurant, I was Le Louis XV their sides. This is additionally deco- The dishes glide in on white-gloved ture. given tiny nut madeleines in a cream Hôtel de Paris One little chariot carries an enor- rated with a row of nougat and long triangular box suspended from a Monte Carlo mous Easter egg of fresh unsalted ribbons of violet marshmallow, which whet appetites. Each captures just On the occasion I dined at the Louis bright orange ribbon with XV em- +377 980 68 864 butter. The waiter uses one spoon to gives the whole display a festive, car- the essence, the crispness of the in- XV, I selected the wine tasting menu broidered upon it. What an elegant [email protected] stop the egg from slipping while using nival feel. gredients. The Gamberoni de San memento of my experience. www.alain-ducasse.com
12 13 A GIRL’S VERY BEST FRIEND
Juliet Cullinan discovers Debbie Wingham and hears about her dream to create the most expensive little black dress ever
It is said that an absolute es- walk centrepiece adorned with black sential of any fashion conscious diamonds worth a cool ¤4,2m. - woman’s wardrobe is a little ette in all the right places to give the black dress. Wingham’s black diamond dress is illusion of the perfect outline. Often a natural step for her brand. “I live misinterpreted as a bias cut, a Debbie But designer Debbie Wingham, in black. I have a black and white art Wingham dress is exclusive, and try as owner and creator of the “Noir by deco house, atelier and even my beau- competitors might, they have yet to Debbie Wingham” label, has taken tiful children are dressed in black,” duplicate her technique. Her designs the idea many steps further by creat- she said. have simple, sensational fronts with an ing an artwork, a dress that is a cat- exceptional eye for detail on the back.
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Ever the romantic, she wistfully year’s BAFTA’S was a dress designed dreams about “nostalgic memories by an unknown designer, but watch “A bespoke Debbie of raiding her mother’s wardrobe this space...... ” and parading around, not wanting Wingham day or evening to take it off – just feeling like a After collaborations with fashion princess.” houses, the courageous Wingham dress has become hosted her own poolside red carpet “I want to create pieces that are affair at Chateau Marmont dur- synonymous with hand timeless and still wearable. A cus- ing a glamorous Los Angeles fash- tom made dress should be some- executed excellence” thing you can enjoy again and again & Arpels providing jewellery worth before passing it down for genera- $2million. tions to come.” She has created unique pieces for Wingham loves chiffon changeant, celebrities, consulted to famous chiffon satin or crepe de chine, sexy brands, big fashion houses and inter- lighter fabrics to create her hallmark national runways. She has launched of fluidity and movement. For more a lingerie range and appeared as a structured pieces she uses heavier guest judge on Britain’s Next Top Venusian wools and silk duchess Model. Her collections have ap- fabric. peared on Colleen’s Real Woman, Sex and the City, Desperate House- “A true inspiration throughout my wives and Ugly Betty. They have career has always been Chanel. The also been featured in Vogue Italia, attention to detail, its wearability Vanity Fair Italia, British Vogue, and adornments are incredible. I Glamour, GQ, Elle, Hello, Italian always wear my own label throwing Jewellery, Fashion and Watches and in a little Chanel for good measure,” the LA Times before they were of- she said. fered as an exclusive to The Art of Taste in Monaco. Wingham’s creativity started at 13 years when she designed costumes Wingham believes that every wom- for school plays. The eye, talent and an constantly seeks that little black skill she inherited from her mother, dress, which will make her feel “sexy, set her apart. irresistible yet chic and elegant.”
At 18 she moved from her humble A bespoke Debbie Wingham day South Yorkshire home to London, or evening dress has become syn- began trading at Greenwich mar- onymous with hand executed excel- ket before opening her own Hox- lence. Her ever-expanding celebrity ton boutique. A year after that she client list includes British Royals, opened her showroom on the über Kate Winslet, Hilary Swank and chic King’s Road. Dita Von Teese.
Although self-taught, she learned Wingham believes that the key to the art of tailoring from Edward giving each piece its appeal is the Sexton who is famous for that “once use of exquisite fabric. Consulta- seen never forgotten” cream suit tions can be made at her atelier, in Bianca Jagger wore to her wedding the comfort of the client’s home or with Mick Jagger in St Tropez in in Wingham’s pop up store in West- field Shopping Centre in London.
Wingham will listen to your ideas; when a well renowned fashion col- suggest fabrics, linings, trims, colour, umnist wrote, “the best dress at this texture and imagery to suit your
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body. Bespoke dresses take from in Wingham’s life has commenced three weeks to three months to make with the manufacture of the long awaited dress. After 11 years in the detail and embellishments which are fashion business Wingham has her imported from Paris. The black dia- black diamond stones and is on the brink of launching the world’s most expensive black dress. Wingham’s motivation to create the world’s most expensive dress lay The black diamond dress is cur- in the fact that despite her seem- rently in a secret London safe, and ingly effortless success, she wanted will make its debut safe and will something more from life. make its debut at the Carol Joy Eye cream Launch at the Fairmount “I have made attention-grabbing Hotel in Monaco in June. gala gowns for high profile inter- national fashion designers under a “One may be fooled into believ- non-disclosure agreement, which ing that it will be a very sparkly col- meant that someone else got all the lection, but you’re in for a surprise. press and praise for my work.” Everything is an illusion, meticu- lously trimmed to complement the “For example, when working with diamond adornments and so noth- a jewellery house I would become ing appears ostentatious,” she says. part of their brand. This is part of the career process and it’s always Forty-five sumptuous blouses and nice to see my work do well but the luxurious gowns will be worn down time has come for me to shine. I the runway. The event will also de- want to make the world’s most ex- but her limited edition range of pensive dress,” she said. denim jeans adorned with diamond buttons and stitched with 14-carat “My fascination in black dia- white gold thread. Each limited edi- monds is based on love. I met my tion pair of jeans is packaged in a husband, got engaged and married numbered ebony box, complete very quickly. When you know it’s with its serial number and diamond right, you just know. He bought me certification. All items can be made a black diamond ring and then a to order. Dazzling quality synthetic black diamond wedding ring. Over diamonds on some outfits will make the years I have become a collector it more accessible to the fashion of incredibly rare black diamonds. conscious buyers. I have a black diamond Rolex, broaches, bracelets and many other The unique dress will enjoy a lovely pieces.” global tour to New York, Paris, Rus- sia, Ukraine, Sardinia, Dubai, Abu “My husband and I have a strong Dhabi and Marrakech. “We are still friendship with the black diamond working on new locations and Mo- supplier so when I approached naco is definitely a must exhibit lo- them to borrow some stones for the cation.” says Wingham. world’s most expensive black dia- mond dress, they agreed but told me No matter how large she grows; it would take years to get the num- Wingham continues to set new goals ber of stones in the size I needed,” and standards. Despite her interna- The Wingham Black Diamond Photography – Josh Carroll she said. tional success each piece is person- Dress will be launched at the Styling – All garments from the Black ally hand finished. She believes, Carol Joy Eye Cream Fashion Diamond Range by Debbie Wingham They say things come to those who “Couture should be effortless and show in Monaco in June. Carol Model – Danielle Zarb-Cousin at Bookings wait. From altar to eveningwear, re- fun and always keep people guess- Joy has a salon in the Fairmont Make Up Artist – Ariane Poole tail to red carpet, the next chapter ing.” and in London. Hair Stylist – Brendan O’Sullivan
18 19 THE ART OF LIFE
ON BEING BOND – MORE ON MOORE
Sir Roger Moore, lives in Monaco, is writing a book and is a Goodwill Ambassador for UNICEF
TASTE: James Bond – 007, the spy created by the writer Ian TASTE: How do you see yourself? RM: As a very lucky actor who despite gorgeous looks, gorgeous, young, brave, chivalrous agent with wit, charm and a lot huge charm, immense popularity and worldwide super- of luck and of course the man that managed to seduce all the lovely stardom has remained very modest. women. What was it like playing this role? TASTE: What was your relationship with Miss Moneypenny in real RM: Being James Bond was absolutely wonderful as not life? only did I get paid for dashing around as a secret agent, but I also got to travel the world at my kindly producer’s RM: Lois Maxwell and I were in the same class at the expense and visited some of the very best restaurants along the way! We later worked together on my TV series The Saint and The Persuaders, whilst she was also playing Moneypenny But more than that, being on a Bond set was magical – was always a pleasure. Fortunately we also had some very talented writers who were able to make me sound as though with the character she played – yet her total screen time in I knew what I was talking about.
20 21 THE ART OF LIFE
TASTE: What were the challenges of the Himself, which was a small British What you would miss now if you were RM: I was fortunate in that being have had? my favourite is The Spy Who Loved Me – RM: The industry has changed in that wonderfully directed by Lewis Gilbert many of the decisions are now made cargo class. However, different time location, the Cala de Volpe in Corsica. zones, varying climates and schedule changes often took their toll and TASTE: Tell us about the book you are after six months of shooting a Bond lot of scripts that deserve to be made writing. are not. RM: It’s called Bond on TASTE: What was it like doing television? – the gadgets, girls, locations, cars, villains RM: Television was and indeed the other actors slightly different to who have played Bond, and making movies in that my opinion of them. There schedules were much are lots of great photos and shorter and budgets I hope it’ll be a popular were much smaller. For book! example when making The Saint we had ten TASTE: How do you like to be remembered? sixty minute show. On a By the world a minute or two in a day. So you had to move fast, RM: As the oldest living improvise and adapt – my man. theatre background was very useful in that respect. By Hollywood
TASTE: Can you recall RM: As a lucky actor who interesting moments, fun just enjoyed working. episodes, and the excitement of By your family
RM: Every day was fun. I RM: As their oldest living always said that I needed relative. a pleasant atmosphere on set when I worked, as TASTE: How do you feel you there is nothing worse than feeling were perceived by the viewers? unhappy. So I’d play pranks such as it tremendously, despite having an set hose pipes off to wet the crew, or accident on my penultimate day of RM: Well, I don’t think I’ve been awareness for the amazing work the always a clean shirt, neatly pressed have ‘extras’ appear in scenes where found out yet. charity does in helping disadvantaged trousers and shiny shoes, as long as they weren’t supposed to – once I had one wish would be to work with Lewis children. If I have made any they’re not suede. one member of the crew appear in a – we had so TASTE: What do you feel were your contribution to the world, I hope it is in much fun making two Bonds together. contributions to the world? helping to better children’s lives. TASTE: What is your greatest achievement? Opposite page: Roger Moore and Kristina Moore in Monte Carlo Moonraker, and he started to wash the outside windows of the space RM: For the last twenty years I TASTE: What do you feel is the essence of RM: My family and surviving in the This page, clockwise from top left: centre when Lois Chiles and I were have spent a great deal of my time taste? Receiving the CBE looking down to earth talking about working for UNICEF as a Goodwill Octopussy The Man With The Golden Gun how all human life was about to be Ambassador, and have travelled the RM: It could be a touch of Marmite on destroyed... proud of The Man Who Haunted world helping to raise funds and my toast in the mornings... otherwise All images courtesy of Sir Roger Moore
22 23 THE ART OF LIFE PRIVATE DINING FOR A ROYAL WEDDING
HSH Prince Prince Albert II married Miss Charlene Wittstock in a civil wedding in Monaco on 1 July 2011. on the statuesque Roc overlooking Monaco and Font Veille Ports. The Royal Wedding was an occasion for all Monegasques to honour their Prince and toast his new Princess. The Fairmount Hotel has always been the chosen caterer for historic celebrations: 1997 1999 patterns in the streets. The garden at Saint Devote displayed 2005 Enthronement of HSH Prince Albert II The Fairmont Hotel share moments captured nations. by Monaco photographer Georges Olivier Kalifa.
24 25 The Fairmount Private Dining service served cocktails, dinners and private parties around Monaco. THE ART OF LIFE
Fairmont photographer George Olivier Kalifa shares his lense with us
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MONACO FOREVER
Charlotte Casiraghi, daughter of Princess Caroline and granddaughter of Princess Grace of Monaco, is Gucci's chosen celebrity model for their Forever Now campaign
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“Over the last two years I have had the pleasure and anniversary. It looks back at the brand’s rich history. “The privilege to get to know Charlotte through our shared Forever Now” campaign was passion for horses. She not inspired by Guccio Gucci, who only embodies the beauty and aimed at creating a timeless, icon- ‘She not only the grace of the equestrian, ic piece. The simple elegance of but is also a wonderful am- the brand continues today, draw- embodies the bassador for the sport,” said ing on his precision as they forge Gucci creative director Frida future fashion. beauty and the Giannini.
Four photographers will shoot the grace of the Together they designed a natural beauty of the Royal over highly technical yet luxurious - equestrian, but is equestrian collection incorpo- traits tell the story of Gucci’s rating House’s iconic green- motifs through the lens of Peter also a wonderful red-green colors and Gucci Lindbergh. ambassador for Crest. Casiraghi is not new to the Gu- Casiraghi enjoys the techni- cci brand. Her sleek image in the sport’ cal precision of show jumping tailored white jodhpurs, shiny rid- and is admired and supported ing boots, and meticulously cut riding coat edged with the locally. We look forward to seeing her success in the “Gucci colours” announced her association with the House.
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BEST-DRESSED HOTELS Natalie Theo exposes the best
Illustrations by Michalis Christodoulou, Parfumer Inspiration by L’Alchimystérie proprietor Francesco Malusardi
can style with skinny jeans for an early cocktail. Char- most sumptuous pieces, Grasse’s glorious fra- lotte Olympia gives a new meaning to deck shoes with grances blend into one luxurious taste sensation. posing panache – sky-high and striped – a subtle nod to the décor. Keep the paparazzi at bay with your Eugenia MONTE CARLO BEACH HOTEL Kim wide brimmed striped hat and cats eye Chanel sun- glasses. Inspired by the glamour of the Roaring Twenties when the Monte Carlo Beach Hotel gave la dolce vita seeking PARFUMER’S INSPIRATION: fresh, delicate naivety, a woman of contrast. turn to than Chanel. Dressing for this hotel is all about FRAGRANCE 1: L’eau de Parfum Blanche by Byredo: poolside posing. Think contrasting black and white with this captures the essence of the colour white. a dash of red lipstick for those “bisou-bisou” moments. FRAGRANCE 2: Aqua Universalis by Mason Francis Sashay your way to Le Dec in a Chanel Resort jeweled swimsuit and obligatory multi-strand pear necklace. with a crystalline mask. A baby odour, something just Protect your marble skin with a bouclé jacket that you washed, fragile in a sexy way. Monte Carlo Beach Hotel
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HOTEL DE PARIS LE MERIDIEN
Drama and passion. That’s what comes to mind when I think of the Hotel De Paris. Haute Couture, Le Meridien’s Amber Lounge come summer time, mingling an enigmatic woman and impressive architecture go with the stars. This is a woman who has an air of girlish- hand in hand. A deep jewel colour matches the stones ness about her but is utterly seductive and a cheeky tempt- draped on the delicate necks and at the sensitive ears ress. For her it had to one of the season’s playful catwalk of women who whisper sweet nothings to their dinner prints. Who better to capture the mix of her care free Boho dates. She makes a sweeping statement in Giambat- sensibilities with something ultra stylish than Matthew Wil- tista Valli’s deep fuschia gown with a billowing side bow giving enough of a hint of glowing skin. David legs, whilst Gucci’s crystal encrusted gold shoes are the per- Morris’s diamond and sapphire statement cuff is all fect jewels. Don’t be fooled by the sugar-and-spice-and-all- that this woman needs whilst the myriad of tiny crys- things-nice pink Jimmy Choo clutch. tals on her Judith Leiber bag are the tears of men left in her wake. PARFUMER’S INSPIRATION: A sexy, provocative, se- PERFUMER’S INSPIRATION: Femme fatale, liai- ductive woman, always in high heels. sons, intrigue, dangerous. Fragrance 1: Ciel D’Airan by Huitime Art: perfect for day Fragrance 1: La Femme Totale Psychotrophe with a summery, watery fragrance of the Mediterranean. It is made from Christ’s sacred olive Easter tree with a touch of to it. pear leaves added for sweetness. Fragrance 2: Iris Pourpre by Keiko Mecherl with Fragrance 2: Cuir Venenum by Parfumerie Generale: powdery iris: elegant mysterious, purple velvet and perfect for nights, the evening is a provocative, venomous deep red like the colour of passion. woman.
Natalie Theo www.thefashionchronicles.com Michalis Christodoulou www.michalischristodoulou.com Hotel de Paris Fairmount L’Alchimysterie Monaco www.lalchimysterie.com
METROPOLE FAIRMOUNT
A globe-trotting, sassy young woman needs an equally Stepping into the Fairmount is like taking to the decks sassy and provocative look as she indulges in the seductive of a majestic sailboat with its vast masts unfolded to taste sensations of Joël Roubouchon at the Metropole. It’s reveal the sun dazzled blue of the Mediterranean. This time for a little black dress… with a big dose of sex appeal. is a space that conjurs up an image of a young, fun and vivacious woman, who likes her fashion. She chan- accompaniment to the hotel’s culinary delights. It holds the nels this season’s delicate pastel trend with an edgy but promise of a night ahead that has no limits. This woman is glamorous Versace leather jacket and must-have pow- strong and vivacious so she accessorizes with a dose of heavy dery yellow Victoria Beckham bag. Perfect for carry- metal. Think Tiffany’s Rubedo cuff and a pair of catch-me- ing lipstick, credit cards, perfume, mobile phone and if-you-can metallic gold Christian Louboutin heels that mir- her blue Keel’s Simple Diary, which matches a draped ror the effect of her jewellery. YSL’s animal skin clutch gives front Lanvin blouse. She has bought her tan Yves Saint a chic call of the wild. Laurent platform sandals in various colours and skins to match her changing moods. Well. Why not? PARFUMER INSPIRATION: a chic and sexy, wealthy and globe-trotting woman , she doesn’t work and is married. PARFUMER’S INSPIRATION: Trendy, young, mod- Fragrance1: Putain Despalaces by Etat Libre D’Orange: ern, a sexy mother. American Vogue calls it the sexiest perfume in the last three Fragrance 1: Jannat by Memo Parfum: very sunny, spar- years. It’s provocative with rose, violets, Lilly of the valley, - amber, ginger and animal notes. This is the aroma before and after making love. Fragrance 2: Miller Harris L’Air de Rien designed for Fragrance 2: Essence of Musc by Bruno Acampora who was Jane Birkin: artistic, vibrant, life in a bottle, an anti-par- Andy Warhol’s friend from Capri: Musk is erotic, provoca- fum the beginning of the rebel perfumes, an anti con- tive and animal with a deep, powdery fragrance. Two drops formist, poetic, literary, sexy, with musk, neroli, white of pure essence are enough to work their magic. Metropole Le Meridien
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A NEW WAVE OF LUXURY
Swimwear by Love Brand & Co. Sarah Hudleston uncovers it all
Like many creative people, Oli- men is linked with a worthwhile cause luxury and social responsibility en- ver Tomalin is a lateral thinker. to save the Asian elephant from ex- trenched in its DNA. A long held desire to design his tinction in the wild. own swimming trunks coupled “The strong and catchy double en- together with a wish to do good His company Love Brand and Co.’s trendre Trunks for Trunks, allowed for charities he believes in, has state of the art men’s swimwear, me to connect the collection with resulted in the launch of the ulti- which is soft and dry fast, is a product helping elephants. I fell in love with mate range of swimming trunks of what Tomalin calls ‘Bisociation’, the charity Elephant Family that that will be launched in Saint a term previously used in relation of was founded by Mark Shand, Prince Tropez this summer. two unrelated ideas. Charles’ brother-in-law, when I saw their painted elephants during the Trunks for Trunks, a sharp new An architect by training, Tomalin awareness event, the Elephant Pa- range of super-practical swimwear for wanted to create a brand that had rade, in London,” said Tomalin.
36 37 THE ART OF THE CLOTH
“I introduced myself to Mark and the charity’s director Ruth Powys and asked them if I could help and get in- volved. We work as closely as possible with them to fully understand their cause to best raise awareness.
“We inform customers of our char- ity bisociation through the sale of the collection, the media and events. For example, we did a fundraiser event in London for Elephant Family sponsored by Taittinger. We are now planning our summer event in Saint Tropez to launch Love Brand & Co. at The Box Boutique where we hope to raise awareness and donations,” Tomalin said.
Tomalin also says that the fact that his range of trunks helps save el- ephants makes the project extra spe- cial. “The ethos of bisociation does - tails that remind us of the cause that the garment endeavours to support. With the Trunks for Trunks collec- tion, the drawstring aglets are shaped like elephant tusks but not everybody knows the connecting part is stained red to act as a reminder of the blood spilt by ivory poaching,” he said.
The Love Brand & Co. Trunks for Trunks collection offers fashion con- scious men who love to wear some- thing comfortable for water sports and beach life, a distinctive choice in beach wear.
Tomato red, ladybird print, stripes as well as a multicolour print are To ensure his association with El- Trust of India, the group working tainability of the whole eco-system. Meanwhile apart from the elephant when I was in the Bahamas when I popular with men and boys alike. ephant Family, Tomalin travelled to with Elephant Family to manage The solution is to re-house the vil- - They also offer the quintessential India to see the work that the organi- and fund the human/elephant ‘con- lagers outside the corridor or dan- spiration in the most unlikely places. a beautiful boutique to stock my swimming trunks for baby boys, of- zation was doing. “My preconcep- flict’ there. The ‘elephant corridors’ ger zone. It is a vital project to the “You never know when you are go- brand. They loved it but were re- fering fathers and sons the chance tions of the trip were in complete re- stretch over thousands of acres continued existence of Asian el- ing to see or hear something that luctant to commit. I emailed them to be colour matched, leaving no verse to what I ended up doing. It was each, in which new villages have ephants in the Wild. I visited some makes you click. The Tube in Lon- every month telling them why they question as to which baby goes with not so much focused on families of sprung up due to the abundance of the re-housed villagers and spoke don is a good ideas place for me.” should stock my trunks. I recently which dad. elephants but humans! I went to the of fertile land. These have created to them. I witnessed the active con- heard from them and they now want Tirunelli-Kudakote Elephant cor- blockages in the natural migration struction of new villages and also As with any project, stickability has to put Love Brand & Co. in their Each pair carries the Trunks for ridor in Kerala, a vital strip of land corridors,” he added. the clearance sites of the old corri- been key to his early success. store.” Trunks logo, as does the nifty draw- though which the largest elephant dor villages. Both the elephant and string bag and cardboard branded herd must migrate,” he recalled. “The trapped elephants put both human elements require extensive “Persistence is everything. It is im- And now, Art of Taste eagerly wait tube, which makes it easy to wrap up their own and human lives in dan- on-going management.” Tomalin portant to never give up on some- Tomlin’s Trunk Call to hear about and give as a great gift. “I was introduced to the Wildlife ger as well as threatening the sus- said. thing you believe in. I remember his women’s wear brand…
38 39 THE ART OF BIJOU
nvestment has become cru- where is the pleasure in unwrapping a ing their sales online. This is both cial in today’s world. It is jewel that a week before was sitting on good and bad for the antique jewel- I a shelf in a warehouse with thousands lery market, it is making more peo- know the divide between money of identical copies? The perfect exam- ple aware of what is out there, but in spent purely on pleasurable ob- ple of a lost skill would be cannetille terms of dealers trying to source those jects & those with long term in- work, which became popular in the exceptional ‘unseen’ jewels, it is get- vestment in mind. Good quality - ting increasingly hard (this would not antique jewellery covers both. ed wire coiled in miniscule rosettes, necessarily be of concern to a private less than several millimetres in diam- buyer). Pearls were long ago considered eter, surrounding a gem or cameo. So just as precious as diamonds. One much for progress, but at what cost? However, the upside is that when only has to look back at 16th century We have lost craftsmen who would sit such jewels are uncovered privately, portraits of Queen Elizabeth I to see at the jewellery bench for hours, days there is fantastic excitement. The evidence of this. These jewels of the thrill of unearthing fabulous antique ocean were thought to be plentiful, they could be proud of, not any more, jewels from a private collection is un- but little did the European consumers with almost no exception. Time is too paralleled by competing for a jewel know that they were exhausting the costly, hence these skills are diminish- in a bidding war with people all over supply, never allowing the oysters to ing, if not lost. the world. Look at the prices realised recover and re-populate by the big international the waters. In fact, as ear- auction houses in Switzer- ly as the end of the 16th “We have lost land, they have continued century, the pearl beds of to rise with rare dips in the Americas were almost craftsmen who would the last few years. entirely depleted; neither Venezuela nor Panama sit at the jewellery It takes more interested had enough pearls left to and informed people to supply demand. A more bench for hours, days seek out responsible deal- contemporary problem ers who advise clients & is that sadly, where pearls & weeks producing a used to be produced, the single fine jewel they for each individual cli- worlds’ waters are now ent. This way they can too polluted to allow could be proud of, not rest assured that they are receiving an individually pearls any longer. They any more, with almost tailored service, and pay- ing only for the jewel in which can only make no exception” question, with no buyer’s them a worthy invest- premium bulking up their ment. invoice, and even better, The way we purchase jewellery has no VAT as most antique jewellery is “Time is money” on the margin scheme. An individual years. A private buyer is now just as dealer does much more as the risk & In terms of a piece of jewellery, as likely to walk into an auction house responsibility is theirs. INVESTING opposed to a loose gem, such as said to peruse a sale on view, as sit down pearls, quality of production has suf- and spend time in a jeweller’s shop fered irrecoverably. It seems that the in the West End. The problem is that old moniker ‘time is money’ has taken prices are pushed up by auction sys- dealer you have a rapport with, who over, and we no longer have the luxu- tem, so that private buyers could end is willing to educate with knowledge, IN ANTIQUE ry of individual jewels, painstakingly up paying more for something, than something it has taken me some 35 make, piece by piece. Workmanship if the dealers were left to buy and sell years to glean. I have always de- and skill is being replaced by tech- on. The internet has made the world lighted in sharing it with my many nology, enabling jewellery brands a very small place, as we all know, and clients that have become over the JEWELLERY to churn out thousands of identical even small provincial auction houses years, very well informed about jew- items of jewellery from factories in the in the English countryside can rest els they have acquired, both for in- Far East. This may make ‘high end’ safe in the knowledge that potential vestment & immense pleasure. The By Sandra Cronan jewellery accessible to the masses but buyers as far away as Japan are view- perfect combination.
40 41 42 43 THE ART OF FRAGRANCE
labels he wishes to showcase. Each beautifully decorated If wine is a gift from the gods one can sip, savour and bottle is a symbol of his trust in the perfume designer and taste, perfume is God’s gift of smell,” he says. in the purity of how it was made. It is important for him to sell fragrances with noble char- location in Monaco so that it would have the ideal light, acters that could transcend fashion, time and trends. space and vibration and history he wanted. You are re- All his little bottles and face creams are ‘green’ with no minded of Pierre Guillaume of Parfumerie Generale who THE SCENT OF animal tests or petro ingredients. said: “It is necessary to exert boundless patience, persever- ance and resolution to capture in a few invaluable millili- When buying stock for his parfumerie, he doesn’t select tres of scented perfume, the magic of a place, of a voyage, costly brand names, but rather bespoke designers who offer the emotion of a meeting or one moment.” A WOMAN something different to his customers. The labels represent From the top of the Casino Gardens, one exits, turns right and enjoys the view of the gardens all the way down to the and herbs. sensational Belle Époque façade of the Opera Salle Gar- Juliet Cullinan Traces The Trail The clients that walk into his shop will question what im- nier. He is at the top of Avenue Saint Michel, the powerful age they truly want archangel, an ideal to create. Malusardi location for select, watches the col- rare, tailored, and our of their skin to not always available discover its acid- perfumes. ity. One feels that The shop is black he looks into their and white; black eyes, reads their for night, dark and souls, watches their danger and white In the heart of Monaco, among the speeding Ferrari, dress, movements, for purity, light Lamborghini and Bugatti, there is a little haven of the way they speak, and day. It is called beauty – the designer perfume shop, L’Alchimystérie L’Alchimystérie, a syn- – that aims to uplift, enrich and satisfy the needs of that could be their thesis of the words people wishing to be and wear more than the clothes signature, a fra- alchemy, historic on their body. grance they would and mystery. like to emanate in a “It is a venue that Its proprietor, Francesco Malusardi loves art. He sees art natural way. will appeal to those in the images in the world around him, and he feels that life They will have is a “divine expression of art.” to enjoy a tour of a fragrance that emotions, times and their friends will re- “There was a time when a handbag was created as a memories and leave member after they piece of art. Now the art is in the marketing and makers of wearing a coat- have walked away, fake luxury products copy the bag,” he says. ing of a fragrance leaving behind a that he believes will bouquet of beauty,” Speaking of his small emporium, he says that he wanted work from within to he said. to create a place that offered the art of the perfume, in its allow them to reveal Here he feels he is most pure form. themselves. changing lives and Many perfumists believe this. Jean-Paul Guerlain quot- creating dreams. He is creating art with his beautiful fra- Rather like Paloma Picasso who said that “a per- ing the writer, Pierre Louÿs says: ‘’When all the laces are grances. He says, “when people come here, they discover a fume is like a piece of clothing, a message, a way undone, when all the petticoats have fallen, the woman is new world and they always return…” of presenting oneself ... a costume ... that differs dressed only in her perfume.’’ In this light the scent you Malusardi believes implicitly in Christian Dior’s com- according to the woman who wears it,” Malusardi select for the evening becomes the person you wish to be ment ‘’Long after one has forgotten what a woman wore, wanted his exclusive shop to be like a living room, the memory of her perfume lingers’’. where you could take the time to try it on your skin, “Perfume is always sensual. Perfume is the perfect weap- wear it and smell it developing its bouquet on your on of seduction, women choose it for effect,” he says with body. And only then discover if you wanted that fra- feeling. grance to be a part of your “Remembering the scent of someone gives you a souve- L’Alchimystérie in Monaco identity. nir of a moment, a memory in time. As you sniff the per- 3 Avenue Saint Michel His shop is all about mys- fume the fragrance moves from the brain to the soul and Monaco tery, passion and creation. back to the brain. It becomes a dialogue between the soul +377 97 98 33 71 Francois Berrué for Studio Parfumerie Generale He has ‘cherry-picked’ the and the brain. Living must be the real art of the wearer. [email protected]
44 45 THE ART OF FLAVOUR
A PASSION FOR CAVIAR A luxury or a necessity?
Susie Boeckmann shares the secrets of why caviar is so sought after
True caviar comes from the - likely now. Although a similar species People often ask ‘what is the best cav- sturgeon farms all over the world, even The oil from the roe contains acyto- sturgeon and like the shark, is a tries worldwide. Even in the US, around called a Caluga was caught in the Up- iar?’ It is entirely a question of choice Israel where caviar is not considered lene which helps prevent alcohol from - - per Yangtze river a few years ago and and your particular taste buds. Today Kosher, (this is because a sturgeon entering the blood stream. In Russia ally changed in over 300 million tiful that before prohibition, caviar was was described in the press as being as in Europe you will probably be buying some people were said to drink this years. often given away in bars, being at that big as a mini bus. farmed Oscietre, with the advantage them when it matures and the eggs are before a vodka binge. time very salty so encouraged men to that the sturgeon has been fed a good taken from it). The sturgeon and its roe have been drink more. Oscietre is very popular in Europe crustacean based diet, is not Several cosmetic companies appreciated since time immemorial and most farmed sturgeon come from susceptible to disease or pollu- “Caviar has long such as La Prairie and Ingrid and such philosophers such as Aris- There are around 33 different spe- this species. It takes between 12 – 15 tion, and you know when and Millet have based their beauty totle, Pliny and Cicero wrote about cies of sturgeon around the world but years to mature but this is reduced to where the eggs were produced. been regarded as an products on caviar with great - 8 – - success. Even Genghis Kahn’s grandson, de- mercially. Namely Beluga, Oscietre and Traditionally the best caviar aphrodisiac and many scribes a banquet at a monastery on Sevruga. bottom feeder which results in its eggs came from the Caspian Sea, There are many ways to - - the largest salt water lake in poems and songs serve caviar. It is delicious on cluded caviar soup, roast and stuffed Beluga takes up to 25 years to pro- ances. The eggs can be large or small, the world. Unfortunately since its own but for most of us it is sturgeon. duce its roe and has the largest and with colours varying from dark grey to the dissolution of the Rus- in the past have eaten on special occasions to rarest eggs which makes it the most pale gold. celebrate a romantic moment Since the Middle Ages sturgeon expensive. The largest recorded Be- the explosion of poaching referred to this” or to add luxury to a busi- (and whales) have been considered luga ever caught, weighed in at over a The third species, the Sevruga, is the ness reception. Caviar goes ‘Fishes Royale’ in many European smallest of the sturgeon family and pro- endangered the sturgeon population Caviar has long been regarded as well with eggs, white toast, blinis, or consisted of roe. The Beluga is also the duces roe at around seven years. The and although there are breeding pro- an aphrodisiac and many poems and potatoes; baked, puréed or on slices caught had to be offered to the sov- only carnivore and has been cut open roe is small, dark grey, to nearly black grammes in Russia and Iran, stocks songs in the past have referred to this. of boiled new potatoes; spread with ereign of the land. Even today stur- to reveal whole salmon, birds and even - have declined greatly. a little crème fraiche. Scrambled eggs geon caught in UK waters is offered on one recorded occasion, a horse’s tre or Beluga, so appeals to many caviar the eggs are very rich in vitamins and topped with caviar are delicious. Also to the Queen of England – who is professionals as being particularly tasty. Despite the grave situation regarding minerals, making it almost a com- a soft boiled hen’s egg, scooped out of said to not be very partial to it and Unfortunately this species is not condu- plete food. its shell, mixed with fromage frais and usually lets the bearer keep it. - cive to farming so is very rare today. made by farming sturgeon. There are chopped chives, popped back in its
46 47 THE ART OF FLAVOUR
shell and topped with caviar is a subtle restaurants to make a small amount your hand, roll the eggs in your mouth and romantic dish. look more important. so that you can appreciate the com- Pasta is also complementary to caviar. Fresh caviar should be consumed can burst as you savour them. Then Make a white wine and cream sauce, with 2 or 3 days of opening and refrig- rub your skin and you should not have adding caviar at the last moment and erated. Caviar does not freeze well; it any remaining odour. break and become mushy when de- What you drink with caviar is also a A real treat is a lightly poached oys- frosted. Keep tins in the coldest part of matter of personal taste. Russians will ter with a foamed champagne sauce, the refrigerator. drink mainly iced vodka. Others pre- topped with caviar. Pasteurised caviar does not need re- fer wine or champagne. If you choose frigerating until opened. champagne it is better to go for a non- You should not use lemon with fresh caviar. This can oxidise the eggs and How do you know if your caviar is caviar can overpower a vintage. If you its use evolved in the past, along with fresh? Open the jar or tin, place a small prefer wine, choose a light, dry variety, onion, chopped hen’s eggs and parsley, amount on the back of your (or part- not too fruity or over-oaked. ner’s) hand on the ‘V’ between your proper refrigeration when caviar was Susie Boeckmann – Co-author of ‘Passion for often very salty or not very fresh. These You should have a fresh light odour Caviar’ and ‘Caviar’, Susie also writes, makes ingredients are still used today in many of sea breeze. Then eat the eggs from TV and Radio appearances on her subject.
48 49 THE ART OF FLAVOUR
TEA TIME WITH TRACY
Tracy Stern, the Queen of Tea Salons in New York City enlightens us on the Art of Tea
Salons in the last century celebrated the talents of foods I’m serving. And when you celebrate with tea, you the great romantic artists of the day with a civilised can make any occasion special and make anyone feel like serving of tea. If you are looking for a way to an honoured guest anytime. entertain friends you might want to take a cue from High Society and host a tea party. Dinner parties are A great tea party should be about enjoying the company commonplace, sharing tea with someone is a special ritual. Tea has a long history of being associated whenever you can. Aside from its ceremony and centuries in many cultures it history, tea is special because it’s was a cherished treat available good for you. Tea is a potent source only to royalty and the upper of antioxidants, which have been echelon of society who would proven to combat cellular damage savour every sip and serve in and ageing amongst many more
Today, vestiges of extravagant The luxury of afternoon tea is associations remain and when one of life’s greatest pleasures and you are invited for tea, it means rituals, so I encourage everyone to a special occasion to relish with enjoy life. drink tea. celebrate often. friends. Whether you are planning a simple afternoon tea or a more Tracy Stern, founder of elaborate themed party, the ritual Salontea, developed a lifestyle of preparing tea will be involved luxury brand that encompasses with the event – you will be a fusion of fashion, style and art serving your guests a beverage and tea blended into distinct yet steeped in tradition. Luckily, interconnected categories. Using though making tea requires just tea to bring people together and believing that everyone should or prohibitively time consuming. © 2007 Ben Fink experience life through simple That means it can and should be a wonderful part of everyday life! the perfect cup of tea, to creating the most elegant and effortless tea party. I prefer to use only the best quality loose leaf tea from estates and I custom blend the spices to create a myriad Tracy Stern is the author of “Teaparty” & “Tea For You” © 2007 Ben Fink of different experiences and tastes to coordinate with the both available on www.amazon.com and www.salontea.com
50 51 THE ART OF FLAVOUR POPPY SEED TARTS WITH TOMATO AND TUNA Alain Ducasse shares with us his secrets for an easy summer canapé or an alfresco luncheon recipe
Preparation 35 mins, cooking 15 mins Serves 4
To make the pastry
Put 150g of bread flour and 1 pinch of salt into a bowl. Make a well and add 50g of butter cut into small pieces. Rub well with the fingertips until the mixture has the consistency of coarse breadcrumbs. Add 50g of oatmeal, 1 tablespoon of poppy seeds and, gradually, 5 tablespoons of water. Knead to form a dough. Shape into a ball and leave to rest for 30 minutes at room temperature.
To prepare the topping
In the meantime, cut 250g of fresh white tuna fillet into fine slices (flakes). Season with Piment d’Espelette. Rinse and dry a handful of wild rocket. Also rinse 12 salted anchovy fillets under the tap.
To bake the pastry
Preheat the oven to 180 °C (gas mark 4). Roll out the pastry into a circle 2 mm thick. Cut into quarters and arrange on a baking tray, placing a small coffee cup on top to create a hollow in the centre. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes until the pastry is golden.
To finish your tarts
Take out the baking tray, but don’t turn off the oven. Spread 8 tablespoons of chopped cooked tomato over the bottom of each tart, alternating with anchovies, tuna flakes and 12 segments of tomato confit. Return the tarts to the oven for 3 minutes until just warmed through. Meanwhile, season the wild rocket with a splash of olive oil and the juice of a quarter of a lemon. Remove the tarts from the oven, add the wild rocket and serve immediately.
Don’t forget to use a sharp knife to slice the tuna flakes! This pastry dough keeps very well in the refrigerator, rolled out and covered in cling film. Use it for other tarts or for a pizza.
Recipe as featured in Nature by Alain Ducasse, published by Hardie Grant, £25, Hardback
52 53 THE ART OF FLAVOUR
- was conservative and visit after visit I radical wines radical Bordeaux has a vour was so dry a dragon must have found hardly anything had changed. Right Bank address. sucked all the sugar from it. A per- The new Bordeaux exhausts and ex- fume of cedar wood and Havana cites me as I’m endlessly faced with But the Bordeaux which isn’t glitzy BOUNTIFUL cigar tobacco that matched the aus- - and top end is the silent majority – terity of the fruit but took it to an- vours. the wines of the Blaye, Bourg, Entre- other level of such scented beauty Deux-Mers, Cadillac and the Graves. you could begin to wonder whether This change has meant that one or BORDEAUX there wasn’t a little sweetness in the - in these areas, yet I have tried to put deaux are now not much respected across their point of view. I’ve given the gods of wine had thrown me a - their regions space in the book and Oz Clarke, quite simply one of the world’s leading classic Bordeaux and said, ‘Beat that tively austere blackcurrant leaf and I’ve searched out good examples wine experts, author, TV host and winner of almost if you can’. And I’d in- through extensive tasting every major international wine writing award vited a lovely girl as my because there is an af- expands on his love of Bordeaux guest. I forgot to take her fordable Bordeaux – not to dinner. dirt cheap, but affordable – that makes appetising, So Bordeaux was my savoury mealtime reds What keeps drawing me back? What of Burgundy, Barolo, Rioja, Barossa or like no other place in the is it about Bordeaux I can’t get out of Rhône, that meander teasingly through great wine. And my next. world. The top wines of my system? Why do the names of its my taste memory wherever I might be, - And my next. And my course – well, they are wine villages and châteaux play like whatever I might be drinking? Why has - next. Châteaux Léoville- - this place snuggled its way into my soul, ber to this day every nuance of the Barton ’62, Montrose the time, even as they vour of these wines, more than those and why can’t I cast it out? ’61, Beychevelle ’61, lose old ones, because Langoa-Barton ’53, they have cunningly and Haut-Bailly ’55, Lynch- assiduously fostered the Bages ’55, all begged or idea that the height of el- borrowed from richer egance, the height of so- and older wine lovers phistication in wines lies than me. in the red wines of Bor- deaux. And as many parts Indeed, I was visiting of the world get richer Bordeaux even before and become interested I’d left university. And in the symbols of success since then, I’ve kept go- and luxury, France still ing back. I’ve visited rules and French wines, Bordeaux more than led by the cream of Bor- any other wine region on - earth. lars of the newly wealthy.
Bordeaux calls itself There is a vibrancy, a the greatest wine region vivacity in the new Bor- in the world. Is it? Until deaux which will guar- recently that title of ‘world’s great- cigar tobacco Médoc styles, for in- antee not only its survival but its est wine region’ was supported on stance, that needed a dozen years or position of dominance. As Bordeaux perilously few shoulders. But the more just to become drinkable have consultants and Bordeaux ideas and Bordeaux that I grew up with has largely disappeared. techniques spread across the globe, changed beyond recognition. The as the star wines are bought and en- And in Pomerol and St-Émilion we joyed by a wider and wider market, The way of growing and vinifying have a different selection of styles, Bordeaux has changed. The way of – rich- never been greater than now, even criticizing and marketing Bordeaux er, deeper, more powerful, but still though the competition has never has changed. It has become a hot- based on the disarming succulence bed of ideas, of experiment and of of ripe Merlot and Cabernet Franc rivals right around the world has nev- ambition. The old Bordeaux I knew grapes. Indeed, if you’re looking for er been higher.
54 55 THE ART OF FLAVOUR
SOTHEBY'S THE AUCTION PERSPECTIVE
Stephen Mould knocks down the greatest wine labels
Sotheby’s has auctioned wine in London since 1970, in New York since 1994 and in Hong Kong since 2009. During the early 2000’s, New are now back on the way up. wine, but Stephen Mould, head of Sotheby’s European Wine Department writes that with the liberalisation of Hong Kong’s approach to wine imports, it is the Asian city which Mouton-Rothschild, Latour, Margaux and Haut Brion all have their distinctive character, and all The same is true of the tiny production, cult Pétrus, the star property on the ‘Right Bank’ the unparalleled feat of 16 consecutive ‘white based wines anywhere in the world. Other notable properties nearby include Le Pin (another “Bordeaux will always be the mainstay of the auction market, and in particular, recent years have witnessed remarkable prices for superstar and Cheval Blanc, which is unusual in Bordeaux for being based on the Cabernet Franc grape. the leader – at least in terms of price – when Sotheby’s will bring to auction wines direct from the cellars of Cheval Blanc in New York in April property, Château d’Yquem.
56 57 sourced with ‘perfect provenance’ direct from Bordeaux at 12° C are ideal, and while many European properties lived, sweet wine. Bottles dating back to the Napoleonic are fortunate enough to have these cellars, American and era occasionally come up for sale and are still considered other collectors often invest in extensive, temperature drinkable. In the New York sale, buyers will have the sale, lots direct from Château Angélus on Bordeaux’s controlled facilities for storing their collections. And with right bank, from Champagne Louis Roederer and from – stunning Napa property Colgin Cellars provided buyers with the opportunity to acquire perfectly-sourced bottles. “This is the attraction of large single-owner collections, where an individual collector has stored large quantities “While the Asian market shows no sign of losing interest of superb wine in ideal conditions. All three selling centres “Sotheby’s holds monthly wine auctions in London, in the great wines of Bordeaux, within the last few months, for Sotheby’s – London, New York and Hong Kong – the Pinot Noir based reds of Burgundy have taken centre offer single owner collections, and with the ingredients of the market become visible. One recent example was the stage. Thus it was once more at the recent London sale perfect storage and provenance in place, these collections when individual bottles from cult Burgundy producers frequently thrive at auction. Bordeaux and Burgundy told their own story. such as Henri Jayer and Domaine de la Romanée-Conti soared to three times high estimate on the back of Asian “In the case of Bordeaux, the pervasive concern among the development of wine investment opportunities. With was in evidence. Where limited production wines are the rapid expansion of the market in Asia, and South increasingly sought after, particularly those which date American markets now emerging, it is small wonder from great older vintages, a guarantee of authenticity is that both wine lovers and professional investors see the well worth the premium for wine buyers. “In addition to provenance, the conditions where the possibility for returns on wise purchases, even in the short wine has been lying must be ideal for the bottles ever to term. Small surprise, then, that the wine auction market reach auction with Sotheby’s. Dark, slightly humid cellars is as buoyant as it has ever been.”
58 59 THE ART OF FLAVOUR
Images courtesy of Ducru Beaucalliou
Herein lies one of the key ingredients some six kilometres wide at this point, for the success of the wines of this they were forced to sell it. But Ducru- has a considerable tempering effect on Médoc region: ancient river deposits Beaucaillou, like most Bordeaux the local climate here, and this serves of layer upon layer of sand, gravel châteaux, has changed hands many its function in avoided extremes of and pebbles carried down from the cold in winter, as well as the opposite century when its reputation solidly in summer. kilometres south, by the river as it was made, enabling it to become changed course over the eras on its a 2nd growth in the famous 1855 What about thes wines of Ducru- way to the ocean. These very poor Beaucaillou? They are considered by many, soils not only drain very well in an myself included, as a kind of epitome of what SIMPLY BEAUTIFUL otherwise moist region on the Atlantic makes the best of red Bordeaux so unique and sea-front, they are also particularly low to its owners at the turn of the 18th so desireable. They are the antithesis of in organic material. This combination naturally restricts yields from the vines They effectively not only established of the glass at you. On the contrary, its name, but also its reputation since they allow themselves to be discovered PRIME VINEYARDS grapes. The best wines from Bordeaux, they were the owners in 1855. For the progressively, gently, with time and past sixty years it has belonged to the patience understated concentration and elegance that Borie family, and Bruno Borie, like his take them through the years with barely father Jean-Eugène before him, lives in a wrinkle showing. It is this capacity for the château all the year round, which and gentle in their touch. The wines always extensive and elegant ageing that has earned is something of a rarity in the region. have that whiff of freshness that somehow few wine appellations that mention the Gironde estuary’s left bank them their benchmark reputation and put them hints at the ocean not far away down the a soil type in their name. One can into the region known as the in every wine collector’s cellar. Another singularity of this château is estuary. Slow to awaken, they stay alive for think of Graves, in the southern Médoc. It is the central part of that it is built above its underground part of Bordeaux, which signifies the Médoc, around the village of The estate of Ducru-Beaucaillou cellar. Very few châteaux on Bordeaux’s gravel. But that’s just about it. St. Julien, that is home to Château dates back to the 18th century. Like left bank have such a feature, mainly on the palate and leaves you with a feeling of Ducru-Beaucaillou. The name many of the very best wine estates because the ground can be too harmony. However, it is interesting to know of this estate incorporates the of the Medoc area, it overlooks the damp. But Ducru-Beaucaillou is on Given the amount of talk that that this same gravel soil runs all word “caillou”, meaning a pebble, Gironde estuary. The building is an a mound, with its land sloping down If I had to take one red wine to abounds in wine circles about the way up alongside the river which, in this instance is described to the estuary, some of it devoted to my desert island, it would be a Saint “terroir” – meaning soil plus local Garonne’s left bank, where the as being “beau”, or beautiful. This an impressive Englaish garden, the Julien, and it would very likely be from climate, ie the places where vines appellation Graves is situated, on is a château that is truly anchored the time, the Johnston family, powerful rest given over to the vineyards. The Ducru-Beaucaillou. This would be my are grown – there are actually very past the city of Bordeaux and up in its soil. Anglo-Scottish wine merchants. Gironde estuary, which measures
60 61 THE ART OF FLAVOUR FINISHING TOUCHES
Scotland’s leading whisky expert, Charles Maclean, keeper of the Quaich whispers wisely about whisky
Some whisky companies have experimented with The second is Glenmorangie Artein [pronounced ‘Arch-ain’]. – maturing the spirit in American oak Although this bears a 15 Years Old age statement, it is in fact a vatting of two parcels of Glenmorangie, one at 15 years old of maturation into casks which have previously con- - tained other spirits or wines, with a view to adding – an ‘extra dimension’, a ‘rounding off’, to the mature maturation – – in whisky. Sassicaia
The pioneer and leading exponent of this technique is The man behind both is the talented and passionate Dr. Image courtesy of Glenmorangie Glenmorangie. Bill Lumsden, former Manager of Glenmorangie Distillery and the company’s overall Head of Distilling and Whisky any Glenmorangie expression – but it has done and I am very the coastal region of Bolgheri, is home to the great show- pleased with the result”. piece ‘Super-Tuscans’, including Sassicaia – which is the only extensive – Oloroso and Fino Sherry, Port, Madeira, Tâin hold him in high regard, so when he told me that the creation single estate in Italy to have its own DOC [Denominazione di l’Hermitage, Côtes de Nuits, Côtes de Beâune, Claret, Bur- of Pride and Artein were pinnacles in his career to date I was I immediately noted caramelised fruits (greengages and Origine Controllata]. In a famous blind tasting of claret-style gundy, Sauternes, Malaga, Cognac, Rum. It has to be said impressed. He is not a man given to marketing hyperbole! - that some of these sprinkling of Demerara sugar, nutmeg and aniseed, under- ena Sutcliffe and Clive Coates, Sassicaia came top out of 33 worked better than Glenmorangie pinned by rich oak tones, like antique furniture”. entries – although at this time it was an unknown vino tavolo! others, but recently Pride 1981 two limited edition I agreed with the oak scents, but the spice-notes only The name ‘Sassicaia’ derives from sasso, stone, which well malts of exceptional “As you know,” emerged for me once water had been added – and this whisky describes the stoney vineyards of the estate. This translates quality have been re- he said, “I have directly into Scots Gaelic as artein, and the name was cho- leased. long been keen on was surprised by this: Chateau d’Yquem is among the sweetest, exploring and ex- most intense and concentrated of wines, yet Glenmorangie used to make Glenmorangie is famously rich in minerals, rising perimenting with Pride is dry overall, especially at full strength. Water enhances through limestone and bubbling up, crystal clear, in the Tar- Glenmorangie Pride its sweetness and its complexity. “Sherbet lemons, melon, logie Spring, not far from the distillery. 1981 – 28 Years Old; this whisky was su- kiwi-fruit, against a background of liquorice and roasted perb, but we had chestnut”, for Bill. For me the fruits were now dried, but the Glenmorangie Artein has a delicate peach hue, and peaches matured for 18 years just managed to herbal/spicy complex was very apparent, and conjoined with come through in the bouquet and taste, following a mineralic in selected American secure some ex- the oak notes, linger long in the glass and on the palate. top-note – oak casks, then re- Sauternes casks milk chocolate, with a delicate menthol top-note. We agree racked into Château from the celebrated Glenmorangie Artein 15 Years Old that the texture is voluptuous and the taste surprisingly pep- d’Yquem barriques Chateau d’Yquem pery. Now the fruits are baked, the peaches joined by apri- – one of the most Released in February, but in development for seven years – cots, plums and cherries, with hints of marzipan, nuts and years. Presented in a Baccarat crystal decanter specially expensive wines in the world, and the only wine from the ever since Dr. Lumsden managed to buy a parcel of very rare milk chocolate. Oak tannins, cloves and polished leather in commissioned from French designer, Laurence Brabant, region to be rated Premier Cru Supérieur – and I could not resist barriques which formerly held the ‘Super-Tuscan’ wine Sas- mounted within a unique oak box, by Dutch designer Wouter the temptation to push the boundaries a little further and see sicaia – arguably the most famous wine from Italy – in which Scheublin, with an intricate mechanism which lifts the bottle he has ‘extra matured’ the whisky. Two exceptional malts! gracefully towards you when opened, to convey what he calls way did I expect that the it would take a further ten years to MonteCarlo Whisky achieve perfection – the longest ‘extra-maturation’ period of Tuscany is described as ‘Italy’s equivalent to Bordeaux’, and www.montecarlowhiskysociety.com MonteSocietyCarlo Whisky Society
62 63 THE ART OF THE WORD
ALAIN DUCASSE “J’AIME MONACO”
J’aime Monaco ma Méditerranée is more than a res- grown, raised and tendered the produce. taurant guide, more than a tribute to the Mediterra- much he has made it the signature cuisine for his three star book encompasses the personal memoirs of Alain Michelin restaurant, Le Louis XV at the Hotel de Paris in Ducasse. It is his gratitude for the region and food Monaco. he loves most. This is his guide, the little black book Ducasse has achieved so much, not because he is driven from one of the greatest French chefs of our time, a - man who has achieved more than most chefs in the proach is humble and not the pretentious tone one may world with his books, restaurants, have expected from an acclaimed man. cooking schools and consultancy, an icon, and a mentor for many with love, appreciation and his ability Frenchmen. to express what his heart feels. Even in Despite his fame and achievements, French, it is easy to read, understand Ducasse is humble and expresses the and associate with. French and Italian love of life, food and the people that comprise it. It is his The photographs zoom in close up, connection to a region Monaco and the focussed and as ripe as the vegetables most important area of the French and they portray. They are simple, not al- Italian Rivera’s of which he is passion- ways obvious, capturing the moment - when the viewer is unaware of the ences his menus. camera. They are unusual, creative and Ducasse believes that independently sensational. The convey restaurants of where we are born and live, there that have stood proud for decades, in- are places where we feel we can call teriors designed when craftsmanship home. His home is the Mediterranean, mattered, where the wood, marble and with its sunshine, views, ripe produce ironwork have felt the touch of many and people. He feels this area welcomes hands and seen the joys and woes of one to adopt her warmly. many nations. The places he speaks about may be small but their roots are big. These places form part of his destiny, inspired by This is a book for those that appreciate life with the beauty the terroir, the songs of the sun. These are his memories, of the regions of the Mediterranean. It is a book to be read abundant with the generosity of produce and people, earth, through its words or simply through its pictures. It is a meal the images that he expresses in his cuisine that through their J’aime Monaco is published by Alain Ducasse His is his love for and appreciation of the folk, who have and is available at ¤ 35 in hardback.
64 65 Photography: Pierre Monetta THE ART OF THE WORD
BORDEAUX IS REVISITED BY OZ CLARKE
This is the holy grail guide for Bordeaux lovers. Now he offers insight into hundreds of good value, affordable, in its third edition, Clarke has built up a following easy drinking, modern Bordeaux wines from Blaye, Bourg, from people who have followed his every sip. His en- Entre-Deux-Mers, Cadillac and Graves. Apart from this worthwhile book, he is the author of pages. numerous award-winning books including Pocket Wine Oz Clarke Bordeaux is an A– - about wine. teaux with photographs and maps. He imparts secrets, gives personal anecdotes and paints pictures with his de- scription of a wine region so close to his heart. French agriculture. Clarke seems completely enthralled with the cellars of His writing style is accessible and fun and Oz Clarke Bor- Bordeaux and we are drawn along by his enthusiasm. He deaux is informative and packed with invaluable knowl- savours the great wines of Margaux, Pomerol, Pauillac and edge. St-Emillion describing their unique fruit, structure and highlighting their different taste sensations. And afterwards, Oz Clarke Bordeaux is published by Pavilion at £25 in hardback.
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he French Riviera town of Hyères – with its ghosts of to travel by land, along the almost has always attracted Tolstoi, Henry James, Robert Louis trackless, and often bridgeless, coast- writers to its shores. Stevenson and Rudyard Kipling; line. For more than six and its eastern limit, Menton,once Tcenturies, this sun-drenched the home of Alan Sillitoe, Vladimir Smollett’s phobia became the Rivi- south-eastern corner of France, Nabokov and Samuel Beckett, to era’s bonanza. His journals became huddled between the Alpes Mar- name a few. best-sellers, putting Nice on the tour- itimes and the Mediterranean, ist map. In appreciation, the people has been a magnet to creative The early British diarists were sons of Nice put him on theirs: the Rue artists of all kinds, but especial- of the gentry, rounding off their Smollett. After Smollett, the French ly writers. education with ‘The Grand Tour’ Riviera, instead of being a diversion, of Europe. The eighteenth century became a destination – and writers You can’t travel far on the Côte nobility felt that their sons’ classi- d’Azur without being reminded of cal studies were incomplete without them: by street names – the place their exposure to the glories of Ath- Many came in search of freedom Pagnol in Monaco, the avenue ens and Rome – even if, like James of various kinds. Sexual: following Boswell, their main exposure was - boulevard Somerset Maugham on principally to social diseases. mosexuality became a blackmailer’s Cap Ferrat – or charter in Brit- by the plethora ain. Literary: D. of plaques that H. Lawrence was record their pass- constantly at odds ing. Outside a with the cen- pretty villa in sors; or political: R o q u e b r u n e : Bertholt Brecht, ‘William But- Thomas Mann, ler Yeats, Nobel and Vladimir Na- prize winner, lived here’; on despotic, book- a seafront hotel burning regimes. in Nice: ‘Anton Tchekhov lived Others, like Ste- here’; and in a venson, Mans- sunny cemetery - in Vence, the in- drich Nietzsche, triguing, ‘David came in the mis- Herbert Law- guided belief that But the Côte d’Azur remained a the Provençal climate was healthy, side trip, usually sighted from some especially for pulmonary ailments. passing ship, and incidental to the But relatively few of these visits had Even its name is a writer’s creation. travellers’ main cultural goal. happy endings: most of these Rivi- era sojourns were a brief stopover novelist and poet, wrote a book All this was to change with the on the road to eternity. Lawrence, about a journey along the coast of Provence. Because it reminded him old Scottish writer Tobias George tuberculosis, James Baldwin from of his natal Côte de Beaune, he alcoholism and Guy de Maupassant called the book La Côte d’Azur. The own right, he was better known as from syphilis, aggravated by attempt- WRITERS OF book is long forgotten, but his title the translator of no less than 38 vol- ed suicide. has lived on to spawn a thousand umes of Voltaire. glossy brochures. For some the Côte d’Azur was an Smollett hated sea travel. Not only escape from complications at home: Since it was invented by a writer, no did he suffer from chronic sea-sick- Maugham and H. G. Wells left un- THE RIVIERA ness, but he dreaded other marine happy marriages, and Graham its precise location. Its western limit health hazards: pirates and mos- Greene and Anthony Burgess a frus- Ted Jones explores is usually accepted as the seaside quitos. For these reasons, he chose trated Inland Revenue Service.
68 69 THE ART OF THE WORD
Yeats House Niven Villa
Some, like Hans Christian Ander- beauty, with an almost perfect cli- But it could be argued that fame son, Arnold Bennett, Charles Dick- mate, where the average winter tem- was no longer their objective. With ens, Virginia Woolf, and Evelyn prizes won and reputations assured, Waugh, were fugitives from north- perhaps the Riviera freed them to ern winters; while some Americans, days in the year. And even in these write as they wished. Thus liberated, including Ernest Hemingway, F. hawkish Kipling could campaign for Scott Fitzgerald, and John dos Pas- are still those sparkling summer days peace, Brecht and Nabokov could sos, were lured by a favourable ex- when the mountains seem almost work in English, and Cyril Connolly change rate – and the largesse of within touching distance, and sea wealthy expatriates. and sky merge in an explosion of tur- could seek his faith, Ian Fleming his Writers invented the Côte d’Azur, quoise and aquamarine. exotic locations, and Peter Mayle his and writers perpetuated it. Once dream house. established, the legend of the az- ‘Here’, wrote Aldous Huxley, ‘all ure coast needed only the advent of is exquisitely lovely’; Rebecca West And many more, through the prox- mass travel to become accessible to called it ‘the nearest thing to para- imity and encouragement of other all: students, (such as Fulbright dise’; Laurence Durrell was ‘con- writers, and its combination of sun- scholar Sylvia Plath); journalists – vinced it is the only place to live’ and James Thurber was a local bureau Kipling hailed its ‘great leap forward own voices here. When Simone de chief; and actors, (Dirk Bogarde, into summer’. Beauvoir wrote of ‘looking forward David Niven, and Simone Signoret to sun, silence, and time to work’, she all established writing careers here). Many were already famous: Kipling might well have been speaking for all and Yeats had their Nobel prizes; Ju- the writers of the Côte d’Azur, what- – the les Verne and de Maupassant their ever their era or genre: from Allcott plots, places and people they were yachts. Maugham and Greene, al- to Zola; from Hyères to eternity. looking for? though they were to spend respec- - Ted Jones is the author of They certainly found a place of ten their best work before they came. ‘The French Riviera: A Literary Guide’.
70 71 THE ART OF TASTE
THE ART OF DINING
freshly made bread, platters fashioned from felled trees, beautiful frame. The restaurant is set in a tall, three- and slabs of chilled, polished marble layered are laden layered French Villa overlooking Vence, with classic soft with twirls of butter, or squares of homemade chocolate green wooden shutters and wrought iron balconies with tables that are much sought after in the summer. Patrons wine glasses. Metal dried leaf shapes in burnt copper col- are invited to sip a locally made aperitif in the conserva- ours twine themselves around cotton napkins, and a small tory, crunch soft herbed breadsticks before moving up the rectangle forms a headrest for the knife. metal staircases with their clusters of marble lotus leaf bowls piled with mauve orchids. in shades of crimson, is home to Sunday jazz concerts. Michelin Stars are to French food what the Oscars LES BACCHANALES – VENCE - are to the movie industry. Young cooks wish for one By Gourmet On The Go nand Léger with its round curvaceous shapes in bright star, fantasise about two only few achieved their primary colours grace the garden. dreams. Like his countrymen, Dufau is inventive, innovative and ethereal spindly white and brown branches with tiny The seasonal menu is freshly planned) daily, inspired The French are dedicated to their cuisine. Children grow visual, dedicated to giving a new spin to gastronomy. His lights, rising in an ethereal manner swaying just as sea- up with an appreciation of fresh ingredients. When they love of art is evident in his visually edible dishes. The in- weed might beneath the ocean. ensuring that the ingredients on their arrival in Dufau’s are not singing about love, they sing praise to food. - kitchen, still have wet soil on their roots. Dining is a way of life, an art, an opera, an experience sauces maintain the bar of French cuisine. Dufau is surprisingly shy, yet comes alive as he animat- dedicated to the chef ’s talent and a reverence to the Guide busy family life. edly describes the menu, the fresh ingredients and why Michelin. Every bistro, restaurant, daily meal is carefully His sea bass served with white cabbage, green onion, Hints of his wife Esty’s inspiration and her career as an each item was selected. His blue eyes shine, his hands chosen, and every piece of fruit or vegetable carefully thyme, coriander, and mullet caviar, his tender beef international metalsmith can be seen in the décor and move with gentle passion and he whispers and holds your served in a pool of baked beetroot juice, baked to achieve crockery, which convey the warmth of wood with the for- attention just as if he is telling a fairy tale. ripeness, and potential for quality. the ideal sweetness and sticky consistency, are sublime. mal texture of metal. Wooden, hand-carved bowls carry Each menu is designed to encapsulate freshness, colour,
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taste and complexity. Dishes echo the art theme, and are Worse still, I had to go there last week for some art decorated like coloured shards of coloured glass, modern biz and I had arranged to lunch with an old and valued sculptures, patterns and shapes. friend, so imagine my relief when he said it was his treat. His signature machine is a mandolin that slices wafer We spent the morning visiting auction houses and col- thin vegetables that are steamed or baked al-dente to re- lecting paintings, which I had bought. As I had travelled tain their bright green, yellow and red colours and perfect there by train, it was wonderful to have a driver, especially shapes. as parking in Paris is only possible with Divine interven- His Michelin star ensures time is taken to ensure that tion. the jus of each dish is clear yet deliciously intense in its “So”, said my chum ( I shall call him Alexandre for that is his name). “I have booked a table at a restaurant which Catherine (his beautiful wife) thinks that you will love, it is It is beetroot season and the colour, intensity and sweet- called Mèmère Paulette”. ness of this vegetable are perfectly captured in jus, slivers This quintessential old bistro is close to the Bourse in a and sauces. side street and from the outside gives very little hint that it The dessert he offered echoes his love of colour and thin is even a restaurant; the slightly shabby crimson exterior shapes, with cornets of apple tucked into crushed Cam- seems out of place in this quite smart part of Paris; there pari ice on a bed of crunchy custard. are curtains dressing the windows and a few old terracotta Coffee is accompanied by a wooden tree with transpar- tureens on view. ent candied lollipops hanging like balloons of stained The sign on the door reads “Poussez Fort”, the dark glass. interior is a throw back to the days of ‘le vrai bistro’, long The occasion is a feast for the senses. It is light and col- on an old pair of shoes – it immediately feels comfortable, eclectic originality. And importantly, at this Michelin gem, like a place that you already know and love. the prices don’t make you reach for the stars. Alexandre took us upstairs to a room with more light and a selection of tables set for and intimate two people Les Bacchanales Restaurant right up to a celebratory twelve. Christophe Dufau I am always complaining about the dumbing down of One Star Michelin Restaurant food and menus which presumably happens because good 247 Avenue de Provence 06140 Vence Although without one, what is a restaurant? These days, +33 4 93 24 19 19 chefs in most kitchens are taught to cook a short selection www.lesbachanales.com of dishes that are in themselves OK, but when they ap- pear on the menus of every restaurant one visits, they are more than boring. For example, Maigret de canard, Dos de cabillaud, Fillet de boeuf and others, are all ubiquitous MÉMÉRE PAULETTE PARIS – A WORTHWHILE and therefore disappointing even when cooked well. CITY FOR LOVERS WHO LUNCH The menu, at Mèmère Paulette, offers a variety, of the By Michael Aalders kind that makes me want to live upstairs. (not sure what this means as kitchens are usually downstairs) - I started with a Salade parisienne, A quantity of hard pensive city in the world in which to live, love and eat boiled eggs, halved and set upon a bed of jambon de Paris lunch. I immediately reviewed my travel plans and discov- and covered with a delicious homemade mayonnaise: I ered that I was not due to visit there for some time. Phew, had been tempted by the Salade de cervelas aux lentilles What a relief! vertes pochées en vinaigrette or indeed the herrings or The information was not at all encouraging. Zurich had any one of the other choices on the menu. replaced Tokyo as the world’s most expensive place to For my main course I had real trouble. There are 13 live. Tokyo, head hung in shame, sneaked in as a worthy dishes to choose from and I wanted most of them. In the 2nd: The news that Geneva, Osaka and Oslo came next, end I settled for Le Rognon de veau poele entier puis did not really worry me; she who must not be allowed déglacé au balsamique, it was more than a man sized por- to navigate, has mastered the art of Rosti, and Sushi – tion but I ate the lot. Delicious! I had been tempted by the not the best – and available in most supermarkets. But the Venison stew, and the Suckling pig, and the slow cooked next on the list brought a chill to my veins. Joue de boeuf braise, and indeed several other dishes, but Paris is 6th! one main course is enough. My trips to Paris are frequent, and my love for a good We were drinking an excellent Madiran from the south lunch there is well known to my friends. west and had there not been some left in the bottle, I
74 75 THE ART OF DINING would not have ordered the cheese but I did. A grand of ingredients, and many restaurants in this city caught chanting cicada beetles, and I give thanks for ridding na- platter arrived and I set about helping myself. in time between Cathedrals, statues, classical architecture ture of these tree-attacking crickets before I have another set on cobbled streets and the avenues of chic designer bite. it. I am now in a hurry to return and have planned it and stores. booked it already. The bistro signature colours are the saffron/mustard The “crunch” is that to eat yourself to a standstill, feast- I smell the entrée arriving. Eggs, poached in a swirl of and watermelon which paint a backdrop for home-reared ing on delicious food – in this case – Entrée, plat et desert vinegar, on a bed of al dente onions that have been sim- food in an ambience of warmth, a glow of delight and ou fromage for ¤18. mering in a red wine jus? Aaah! This sauce has been brew- generosity. I give thanks for passionate, dedicated people The wonderful Madiran was ¤24 although there were ing in that large stock pot for days to achieve this com- who have dedicated themselves to my enjoyment of food. less expensive wines available. Yes, I will certainly return… and please can it be tomor- eggs to watch the saffron colour seep from within them. row! Mémére Paulette This dish certainly puts a new slant on “eggy bread”. 5 Rue Paul Lelong La Tête de Lard 75002 Paris, France As I savour, slurp and crunch, the patron introduces us 13 Rue Désirée +331 42 36 26 08 to the local farmer from whom he buys these golden eggs 69001 Lyon www.memere-paulette.com and poultry. Like a shy naïve boy, the farmer bows more +334 78 27 96 80 through anxiety than pride. www.latetedelard.fr We are left to chat, appreciate the kaleidoscope of ion TÊTE DE LARD – LYON the walls. Its as though I am eating in their family dining By Gourmet On The Go room.
The buzzing atmosphere of this characteristic Lyonnaise The chef, the patrons’ son, is paraded proudly. Im intro- bouchon greets you as you enter this small, busy establish- duced as he speaks English, I want to know all the details ment. Maître D and staff moving to and fro purposely, my French curdles the dessert! His shyness, hidden be- juggling plates up and down their arms like a circus act. neath his beret melts revealing his pride and talent. Your gut knows instinctively that you have been led to a place where food reigns supreme. The idea of the concep- impresses, but this beats the norm. We munch the soft, tion of the Michelin restaurant springs to mind. This is creamy sauce in a few seconds, giving little appreciation the place the truckers would have called “home”. to its hours of preparation, reduction and crushing of all those watermelon coloured beasts. A enormous smile welcomes you before you spot his The Dauphine potatoes come as a serving dish large his pride makes you want to taste the food. enough to feed a generous family. And best it does be- Why is it that while I love the exclusive formal establish- cause its intensity and creamy quality make it as appeal- ments where you glide past professional waiters standing ing as licking the cake bowl… We each have a serving to attention, guarding a few tables, before reaching your spoon, then a ladel… then some of us have a soupçon destination with its linen cloth and starched napkin which more… Wow, this gratin is a meal on its own. is whisked like a frisbee into the air, to land on your lap, and the food arrives hidden beneath silver domes, is it We sip Beaujolais and I discover that it comes in white that small family bistro’s make my heart sing? Tonight I as well! I vow to drink it from further north in future… know I’m going to love the evening before I have been Chassagne Montrachet, Puligny Montrachet or Mersault ushered to my red and white checked cloth layered with for instance. Beaujolais is all about marketing. Harvesting, white paper. It is now that I long for quality stemware, which direct the wine onto the desired area of your pal- race to get it to England by the 25 November. It still disap- ate. This tiny, thick, heavy glass is no good for anything points, year after year, but the marketing deserves marks. but your toothbrush. This bistro is one of the Bistrots Beaujolais international chain serving this gamay grape. This is a Beaujolais guide I love the anticipation, action and promise as you watch where restaurants are awarded a listing by serving the the patron chatting to locals, laughing and making them wine rather than excellent food. feel special before darting back for another load of plat- We are hardly tempted by the menu any longer… but ters. intrigued and order the Almond Tart with the thinnest pâte sucré pastry base, iced with melon-coloured cream. Lyon is the Gourmet capital of France with the richest Its colour is cochaniel, derived from crushing of those
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L’OURSIN BLEU – VILLEFRANCHE The aromas of the freshest of ingredients will mingle about my cooking and love expressing myself through my By Gourmet On The Go with the smell of the sea, algae, and ozone. In winter you food”. can eat inside, near the large aquarium with its brightly “Sometimes I wander out of the kitchen and look over to We choose a restaurant as much for the view and ambi- coloured coral and seaweed swaying in the current. It is St Jean on the one side and the Port on the other. I can’t ence where we would like to enjoy our partner, as the food. help being moved by the beauty and put everything I have Villefranche has to be the most beautiful bay on the by blowing ripe balls of air, or to see the sea urchins, that into preparing a memorable meal for our guests”, he said. French Rivera. A typical French village with little shops, give the restaurant its name, interacting carefully in the churches, the vegetable market, the antique market, a fort, corner. Perhaps one should select the set menu for full appraisal art galleries, the sweeping arc of the beach, the little boats I’m always thankful for the voiturier service as parking bobbing in the shallow water, the Port, the cruise liners is impossible and you end up walking miles. Arrive by car it’s the catch of the day served with foie gras, red lobster- or by boat and let them sort out your transport while you sauce, hints of vanilla, pear or ginger that will intrigue most expensive real estate in Europe – St Jean Cap Ferrat, sip Champagne. your taste buds. with the Grand Ho- You will be greeted by Do save space for the homemade soft chocolate cake with tel du Cap-Ferrat and the charming Maître its creamy centre and red berry ice cream or for the warm the Rothschild Villa D, Hervé Lelu, dressed Ephrussi in the dis- in tailored, white shirts no more, the coffee arrives with a selection of miniature tance. with elegant black petite fours; macaroons and doll-sized cakes to tempt you This village is team- stitching, double col- further. ing with restaurants lars and three buttons and amiable French on the sleeve. His soft I rest my case! folk some speaking a welcoming tones, com- smattering of welcome ments and elegant L’Oursin Bleu Villefranche and courteousness in personality guarantee 11, Quai de L’Amiral Courbet every language. Its 06230 Villefranche-Sur-Mer lovely to walk up the establishment. Like +334 93 01 90 13 winding road from the most French restau- [email protected] sea to the main road rants there are only a called the Bas Cor- couple of waiters who niche. There is nothing to beat a table along pace, smile, and en- the quay to welcome gage in an unobtrusive the spring, when you interaction with their long for the warm sun customers. on your back as you This restaurant cre- ates dishes that are Along the waters tailored and colourful edge, next to the famed with elegant and dra- La Mere Germaine matic compositions. They are like giant nouvelle cuisine de- Bleu. This jewel of a signs but these dishes restaurant is home to will satisfy with size. gourmet cuisine and The cuisine is inspired delightful service and by the simple, fresh is included in the pres- seasonal Mediterrane- tigious ‘Tables and Au- berges de France’. from the nets of local Summer lunches should be enjoyed on the quay in the sun, so opt for an As in every restaurant, its heart lies in the kitchen. Chef outside table and take a hat along with your eager stom- Jerome Deloncle says he enjoys cooking light but modern ach. food with hints of spices and fresh herbs. dodging the children, families, bicycles, tourists, and all “Every season, I change the menu at L’Oursin Bleu. I angling for the same space in which to move, will separate also adapt some of my favourite dishes by replacing ingre- your table from the main restaurant. dients with those that are seasonal. I am very passionate
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“It was inevitable that Watts should handful of others around the circuit works, some of which are pictured love the noise, speed and smells of mo- in a minibus (a VW camper van if within this article. I have also become tor racing. He was born In Tunbridge memory serves me right) it was enough - Wells near Brands Hatch. to start something from inside of me sulted in many amusing moments, as which has since led to me travelling the BURNING RUBBER AND Fast forward to the 21st century, and world and becoming friends with some touchy if one should dare criticise any Watts has an incredible portfolio of of my heroes, ”he said. part of his work. However this is often work having painted just about every the way with people who I consider to driver and race car of note, since the have genius. OIL PAINT – A HEADY London when I stumbled across a shop called Alex Reade International Ltd. “From an early age Nick was “ I am a ‘mad about Formula 1’ Eng- On entering I was immediately drawn captivated by the form and function COMBINATION lishman who has a passion for artwork to a painting by an artist called Nicho- of automobiles, and he soon began to and original paintings of my favourite las Watts, who along with an artist draw and paint them. sport”. called Alfredo de la Maria is probably “At the age of 16, Watts’ artistic abil - - Heading to Monaco this year for will be Nick Watts, an English art- Perhaps his biggest fan is CHRIS twelve and was lucky enough to be the “The picture was of Damon Hill what is perhaps the world’s most ist whose specialty is motor rac- SAVAGE who owns no less than son of a local radio presenter at BBC called Making of a Champion – a mag- school that year to become an engi- prestigious Formula I Grand Prix, ing and who manages to capture 30 of Watt’s original artworks and Radio Kent. To this day I have no idea neering draftsman at Vauxhall Motors, along with the tens of thousands the thrill of the chase of the worlds who, in this article, talks about how, but a few hours before the Grand Brazil in the wet. a British automobile manufacturer of fans that will descend on the best racing machines. Watt’s prodigious talent. Prix at Brands Hatch had begun, my located in Luton, England. He later Principality from 24th to 27th May, father had somehow managed to per- “Since then I have become the proud joined the Royal Air Force as a special- suade James Hunt to drive me and a ist in navigation systems. During this
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time, he was able to experience a num- nical grounding and the sense of pro- ber of auto races throughout Europe, He exhibits his work in Europe as well portion and perspective that it teaches including his favourite, the Targa as the United States. He has enjoyed shines through within all of (the art- Florio in Sicily. After the conclusion great success showing his artwork at ist’s) pictures, be it the F1, endurance of his military service, he returned such venues as the annual Barrett- or sports car subjects. to his painting easel in England and Jackson Collector Car Auction in has since become one of the foremost Scottsdale, Arizona, the Monterey “Watts’ reputation as an extraordi- painters of automobile nary automobile artist art. has enabled him to build “Fast forward to the 21st strong relationships with “Jeremy Clarkson once century, and Watts has an a variety of racecar described him as the drivers, team owners, “Motorsport Monet” on incredible portfolio of work and personalities. Many an edition of Top Gear of his prints are hand for the BBC. He holds having painted just about signed by the racing his chosen profession legends portrayed in in high esteem, and every driver and race car the artwork. The long admires anyone who list of drivers includes makes a living by re- of note, since the 1960s” Sir Stirling Moss, Sir cording in pigment the Jackie Stewart, Mario antics of the automobile in competi- Historic Races in Monterey, Califor- Andretti, Michael Schumacher and tion nia and The Goodwood Festival Of twelve other World Champions”. Speed in Sussex. “His paintings are mainly created in Watts Annual Poster a studio attached to his house in Cole- “Nicholas Watts has a passionate and www.themotorsportgallery.co.uk by, a small village located approxi- atmospheric style in his work. His tech- www.alexreade.net
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“The former triple F1 champion Nelson Piquet once lik- claustrophobic, anachronistic and fraught with danger. But it nevertheless retains a mystical quality that transcends any criticism that’s sometimes leveled at it.
“To my mind it is the antidote to many modern-day archi- tect-designed-circuits which are all too often sterile, unexcit- ing and unchallenging.
“Every driver in F1 is desperate to win this event. To do so marks you out as someone very special. You could die happy knowing you were victorious at the one race that sets you apart from your peers.
THE GRAND PRIX When you get to “fly a helicopter around your living room”
of William Grover-Williams, who was later executed by the atmosphere and sheer star quality that the Monaco Grand Prix has to offer motor racing fans, than DAVID and mother French, was chauffeur for the Irish WW1 artist KENNEDY a former F1 driver who now is a writer and William Orpen. commentator on motor racing. Here he writes for the ART OF TASTE what it is that he loves about Monaco’s “The driver’s career may have been relatively brief but in premier event. many ways it sets a pattern that is prevalent today in that he may also have won at other challenging circuits, namely Le “I am frequently asked: “What is it that makes the Monaco Mans and Spa. Seldom does a driver win in Monaco without Grand Prix so special”? also doing so at other great arenas.
“It’s a loaded question that can be answered in either min- “Champions love Monaco and vice versa. You just have utes or hours, depending on the attention span of the inquir- er. Here is something in between. Triple World Champion Ayrton Senna reigns supreme. He won in Monaco six times, followed by seven-times World “Monaco is unique. A hero of the French resistance won Champion Michael Schumacher and double World Cham- All photography on this spread by Georges Olivier Kalifa
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“For me, Saturday qualifying is the zenith for showcasing late white gloves. I didn’t speak French but I tried my best talent. For the driver who succeeds in clinching pole posi- to placate him. “Bonjour Monsieur je suis une pilote” I tion, it's a rendezvous with supremacy. proffered with a terrible accent. ‘N’est-ce pas Monsieur? Je suis un gendarme” he said smugly. I was let off with a slap on the wrist and a crash-course in knowing exactly who is brake horsepower car around the place, kissing the Armco boss in this town. barrier as they grapple to extract a fraction of a second over their adversaries. “Another memory is of Princess Caroline boogying at a Grand Prix party. I know her bodyguard gave me a few “Monaco represents the pinnacle of an unholy alliance a dagger looks, though that could have been for my unortho- driver makes with himself and his chosen profession. Some are prepared to put their life on the line – what other sport asks that of its athletes? “Every year for decades, my sponsor would take a room at the Lowes Hotel (now the Fairmont) overlooking the circuit. “It is man and machine as one; a marriage made in hell if The great and the good would gather to enjoy wonderful it goes wrong and heaven if it ends in glory. For me there is no greater sporting spectacle than this couple of hours of homage to bravery. “On Saturday night we’d dine at the roof-top of the Ho- tel de Paris. The frightfully grand restaurant contained “For the fans too, nothing else comes close. The cacoph- a veritable who’s who of motorsport luminaries and ony from twenty-six V8 engines reverberating around the moguls. If the evening was warm, the retractable roof pastel-coloured Belle Epoch buildings is a symphony to the came back. The balcony outside probably offers the best - views of Monte Carlo over the glittering lights and shimmer- their annual pilgrimage, their ing harbour below. It is really presence adding to the charm spectacular. of the occasion. “Long ago, as an impecu- nious racing driver, I was usu- as this weekend of fun unfurls ally lucky enough to be taken between the haves and the as a guest. But one particular ‘have yachts’. Each feeds off time it was suggested I leave - a tip. Ten percent of what tion. One comes to stare and looked like an endless bill in the other is content to be stared Image courtesy of the Lotus F1 Team French Francs was equivalent at. It’s a quid pro quo situation to four hundred euro now! I’m that keeps both sides happy. The best place for this tradeoff still trying to recover from the shock. has to be the Café de Paris at Casino Square which should really be renamed Ferrari Square. “This year I return with our team ‘Status Grand Prix’ as we compete in the GP3 single-seater support race on “The Principality, of course, is a byword for glamour and fairytales. When F1 meets Cannes (the two overlap) and the in from Canada for the event. is hardly a newspaper in the world that doesn’t contain “Thirty years ago, I remember Teddy being wheeled photos of impossibly beautiful people sashaying around its around these streets in his push-chair. His late father glittering streets. Teddy Yip snr, owned the Formula One team ‘Theodore Racing’. Ayrton Senna raced for them in Macau. “I’ve known Monaco through many incarnations; racing here in an F3 car, attempting to qualify in F1 in a car that “Winning is the icing on the cake of course and we’ll do favoured the sea over the track; as a TV commentator; a our best to make it “happen. Entertaining sponsors is a Driver Manager, and now as a Team Principle. priority too and guests are content to hang out and soak up the atmosphere, delighted to be a part of this great “I recall that once, way back in my F3 days, breaking a spectacle, the one and only Monaco Grand Prix”. Image courtesy of the Lotus F1 Team very forbidding with his tasseled epaulettes and immacu- www.statusgp.com
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EVEREST NO MEAN FEAT
Says Sarah Hudleston
In 2011, Walking With The With The Wounded team must also Hewitt, who participated in the North Wounded set a World Record by deal with the injuries they received in - taking four wounded servicemen the line of duty. to the Geographic North Pole. For Charity founder Ed Parker says, arm means that I naturally fall to my May 2012, the charity has set its “Climbing Everest is one of the right side,” he explains, “So balance sights even higher: with the help world’s great challenges. It has long is a major challenge. Walking across been a symbol of overcoming insur- wounded servicemen on the sum- mountable obstacles against all the is one part of the expedition I’m cer- mit of Mount Everest, 8,848 me- odds – convictions that are central to tainly not looking forward to.’ tres above sea level. Walking With The Wounded’s mis- sion. These servicemen physically em- his Warrior Infantry Fighting Vehicle Climbing Everest is one of the body those qualities, having overcome was petrol-bombed during a riot in world’s toughest challenges. To suc- the very gravest of injuries already. Iraq. He has to take special care of his ceed, the climbers will have to over- They are Taking Steps For A Better damaged skin, saying that, “Frostbite come precipitous falls, hurricane force Future.” is a real danger, so I’m taking every winds and treacherous snow-covered Walking With The Wounded is sup- precaution to make sure this doesn’t crevasses; their bodies will have to ported by Prince Harry, who accom- hamper my summit attempt.” cope with chronic altitude sickness, panied the North Pole team last year. Russell Brice, owner of Himalayan immense fatigue and bitter cold. He returns as the Expedition Patron Expeditions and one of the world’s Few of the world’s most experienced most experienced Everest mountain- climbers who attempt Everest actually Each member of the team has their eers, will be leading the summit at- reach the summit. As well as the chal- own unique challenges to overcome, tempt, “Everest remains an incredibly lenges of the mountain, the Walking due to their injuries. Captain Martin challenging mountain.
88 89 THE ART OF SHAPE VOL 1
Many of the world’s best moun- ten-day trek from Lukla in Eastern taineers have fallen foul of its fast- Nepal to Everest Base Camp, which - changing conditions and treacherous ers to do so. At 8,156m, Manaslu is features. The team will need to train the summit team will undertake the the world’s 8th highest peak, deep in extremely hard to stand any chance grueling process of acclimitisation to the Nepalese Himalaya, and at only of success: being in peak physical con- reach the summit. In total, the entire dition, being able to do the technical expedition will last for 6 – the perfect training environment to skills without hesitation and having weeks. test their bodies at altitude. The trip the mental strength to overcome the allowed much of the team to encoun- fatigue, cold and pain.” Walking with the Wounded aims to ter some of Everest’s challenges for raise over £2m to re-skill and re-train In all, Walking With The Wounded injured servicemen and women from energy-sapping high-altitude efforts; has three teams going to Everest: a the British Armed Forces. The charity crossing deep crevasses on rickety lad- team of 5 who will attempt to climb to aims to raise funds for education pro- ders; and managing technical climb- the summit; and two teams who will jects and training courses, which spe- ing gear in frozen conditions. follow later in the month, leading the charity’s fund-raising treks to Everest and mental injuries sustained by ser- To donate to this fantastic cause, visit the Base Camp. vicemen and women. Walking With The Wounded website and As part of their training, the Everest Each team will endure the arduous team, including the Base Camp team, donate
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hotels, beautiful cars and great company, what’s not to like? Well, to be honest, everything has a downside, for example, limited luggage space, especially challenging for rallies which require black tie, cocktail dresses and costumes for a Con- MONTE CARLO cours d’Elegance. And depending on the weather, pre-war to the camaraderie/fun/arguments/ anger/hostility experi- enced sharing the driving and navigation with your husband. OR BUST Enough said that by the end of many a day it’s not just the car that’s over-heating! But all the frustrations of the day rapidly Vintage Car enthusiast Penny Palmano at the wheel... dissipate discussing the highs and lows of the day over cock- tails, and realizing that you weren’t the only ones to miss the ‘Cross bridge on right’, and making a U-turn in rush-hour But if you like the idea of old cars but have little to no idea “Exactly what part of, ‘Take the next left’ didn’t you what happens under a bonnet, fear not. Most well organized understand ? “ I ask exasperated as we accelerate silky dust sheets. Pulling the covers off reveals her wonder- - past the turning. fully rakish, gleaming black body and profusion of sparkling selves with problems…of the mechanical nature that is, not “I thought you meant the next left,” my husband replies chrome. Slipping in behind the wheel, I inhale the evocative the, “Have you seen my husband, I last saw him in the hotel through gritted teeth, aroma of nearly eighty-year old leather, and gently run my bar nursing a bottle of Remy Martin with that guy who drives “But then I would have said the second left……wouldn’t hands around the large Bakelite steering wheel, savoring the the Bugatti?’ type. I……..darling?” adding ‘darling’ to try and keep the atmos- moment when we are out on the open road. phere calm and friendly. Inserting the key and hearing the reassuring, tick, tick, Penny Palmano is the author of the best-selling, ‘Yes,please. Thanks!’ “Not necessarily, as you completely managed to ignore the tick, tick as the petrol makes its way to the carburetors only and ‘Yes, please. Whatever!’ direction ‘Cross Bridge on right’ just ten miles ago,” replies heightens the moment of pressing the starter button. The Penny is a huge vintage car enthusiast and rallies a 1936 Jaguar SS my husband, clearly not trying to keep the atmosphere calm - 100, with her husband who drives a 1952 Jaguar XK120. and friendly. gine kicking into action has never failed to cause me but- “I wasn’t expecting it to come up so quickly, and if you had slowed down when I asked, we gear and edging out the would have been able to make garage has never dimin- it,” I state in my defence, and ished. add, totally unnecessarily, “Any- Forget your power- way, I didn’t direct you down the steering, ABS braking ‘Pietons only’ yesterday, leaving systems and air-condi- women, children and old-age tioning of modern cars, pensioners leaping for safety these old cars require into the nearest doorways.” actual driving; constantly “Oh don’t exaggerate, they correcting the ‘play’ of weren’t in any danger…….. the wheel, double de- except… perhaps that woman clutching to change gear with the pram….” and pumping the brakes. And looking beyond the shallow By this time we have made a U-turn in the road, holding aero-screens , down the louvered bonnet to the enormous, bulbous chrome headlights, with the wind in your hair, is an and I can’t imagine why I agreed to navigate for him either’ experience to behold. Rallying takes on all forms, from the endurance, to the now en-route…again. Ah, the joys of rallying! competitive, to the touristic, for vintage, pre-war, post war, For those uninitiated with the sheer excitement of old cars, or classic up to modern day cars. We happen to favor the and for those who imagine that owning an old car conjures pre-war, touristic. These rallies encompass joining a group up images of being broken down by the side of the road in a heavy down pour (I can’t lie, this can happen) but let me book, which guides you through large swathes of attractive for a moment, try and capture your imagination and arouse countryside that you would otherwise miss unless you were your senses. lost. Lunches, dinners, vin d’honneurs with local mayors, vis- The anticipation for me starts when I open the garage and its of cultural and historical interest, charming or luxurious
92 93 THE ART OF SHAPE I-RACE: DRIVE AN F1 CAR!
Whilst the Lotus F1 Team race ings before the drivers are taken out for “Then it’s time for lunch. This takes team was preparing China, the recognition laps so they can begin to place in Grand Prix hospitality unit so Paul Ricard HTTT also rever- learn the track. the drivers can enjoy some good food berated to the sounds of an LF1T and also share the experiences of the “As soon as that is done, it’s time for day with each other. the iRace programme took place. them to get behind the wheel them- This exciting initiative sees lucky selves. We send out six Formula Re- “After lunch they are briefed about individuals – whether they be nault cars for twenty minute sessions the controls of the Formula 1 car, in- sponsors, journalists or hard core for the drivers to build-up speed. For cluding the buttons on the steering race fans – go through an intensive wheel. schedule to get being the wheel for pace them. themselves. “Then it’s the big moment: two laps “Following this, an engineer analyses in a Formula 1 car. LF1T’s iRace manager was on the ground in Paul “Once the driving has “After they have driven the Ricard and explains what F1 car they get a ride in a happens. finished, the drivers are two-seater Formula 1 car and had our Formula 1 driv- “We have 24 guests each presented with all their er Romain Grosjean or 3rd day for the driving experi- driver Jerome d’Ambrosio ence which has the goal to telemetry and we toast out in action.. This is the ic- give people a bit of an idea everyone with a glass of ing on the cake to round off of what it is like to drive the day. an F1 car – to give them a champagne!” glimpse behind the scenes - and the feeling of being an F1 driver ished, the drivers are presented with for a day. give feedback and show where there is all their telemetry and we toast every- room for improvement. There is then one with a glass of champagne!” “The day is very long. We leave our - information of the track from one of “The programme is proving very cuit where the guests are greeted by the the driving instructors and then it’s appealing and we’ve had participants same motorhome as set-up as the race - from Russia, Brazil, the UK, Australia team use at Grands Prix. utes in the Formula Renault. – all over the world in fact. There’s a range of experience too; from people “First thing is getting kitted out, and “The drivers also have a meeting who have karted or even raced before, with one of our physiotherapists for to those who have had no experience helmets are all very similar to those our a massage and also to be briefed on of anything similar to this before. race drivers wear. what happens to the body when put We’ve even had a former Formula 1 through the forces generated by an F1 technical director and race car con- Image courtesy of the Lotus F1 Team “Next, it’s time for several safety brief- car. structor have a go.”
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Bow to the Buddha and a temple dedicated to Tin Hau, Take a Peak Taoist Goddess of the Sea and pro- Take a glass-bottomed cable car No visit to Hong Kong would be from the Tung Chung terminal on Hong Kong is a duty free haven, Lantau Island to Ngong Ping vil- so you’ll save money on all imported tram ride up to Victoria Peak, so lage. Gaze down on Tung Chung steep that the buildings seem to lean Bay, Hong Kong International Air- malls, vibrant open-air market stalls; as you travel on a gradient of be- port, Ngong Ping Plateau, Lantau side-street herbal medicine stores North Country Park, the Tian Tan and Chinese emporiums. drive up to the Peak from Repulse Buddha statue at Ngong Ping – the Clothes, cameras, I-pods, comput- largest outdoor Buddha in the world ers and other IT stuff are probably Deco at 118 Peak Road – food with a – and Disneyland. Lunch in Ngong the best buys, although souvenir view – before strolling across to Peak Ping village, then immerse yourself Tower, one of Hong Kong’s most in a 15-minute multimedia “Walking the Chinese arts and antiques along stylish architectural icons. From the with the Buddha” experience that Central’s Hollywood Road and side Sky Terrace, Hong Kong’s highest explores the life of Siddhartha Gau- streets. Silk carpets, Neolithic pots, tama and his path to enlightenment. Tang Dynasty horsemen and Mao you look down, godlike, over the tips See the giant bronze Tian Tan Bud- souvenirs are popular, but it’s in of the skyscrapers, across the har- dha before bour – home visiting Po Lin to freighters, Monastery’s ferries, and fantastic gold, boats of all red, pink, or- shape and ange and yel- sizes – all the low temples. way across For something to mainland a little more China. rural, inspect the catch of Enter the Hong Kong by Herry Lawford the day at Tai Silence O Fishing vil- lage, take in More than some culture at the Mon- the active key’s Tale the- Taoist Man MECCA OF atre and make Mo Temple your wish on Hollywood at the Bo- Road is dedi- dhi Wishing cated to the CAPITALISM shrine before taking the 25-minute Taoist Gods of Literature and War, cable car journey back to Tung the most memorable shopping ex- but a multitude of other deities can Chung. periences. Make Mong Kok your be worshipped here as well. Caroline Hurry visits Hong Kong and finds cultural diversity, Our guide explained the funda- great shopping, ultra-modern transport, delicious dining, Strike a Bargain Market at the corner of Dundas and mental differences between Bud- undeveloped rural islands and gorgeous scenery Tung Choi Roads and the Night dhism and Taoism – suffering (Bud- Craving a shopping high? No- Market in the nearby Yau Ma Tei dhism) versus goodness (Taoism) and where gives a better retail rush than district, you’ll plunge into a veritable rebirth (Buddhism) versus heavenly Hong Kong. There are three main canyon of stalls that seem stretch as dimensions (Taoism) – before lead- Mountains of vivid green sub- calators (including the longest in the Kong Island with vertical buildings markets. The best known, Stanley, far as the Great Wall of China. Here ing us into the dark interior where tropical foliage surround sparkly world) convey pedestrians through stacked like mirrored Lego blocks rep- is worth the trip just for the scenery smouldering coils of incense swirled skyscrapers. Elevated skywalks huge malls. Welcome to Hong Kong, resent a who’s who of the corporate along the way. It’s laid back, prices name you can think of in shoes, snaky wisps of smoke. They hung transport people over busy roads comprising 236 islands with the Kow- world. There’s much to see and ex- are good and I found a good selec- handbags, belts, watches, ornaments from the ceiling with shafts of sun- and bays. loon peninsula of mainland China perience in this Mecca of capitalism. tion of most things, especially linens. and clothes. It’s all easily bartered light illuminating the motes of dust Temples glint in the shadow of high- jutting into the South China Sea. Here are just a few “must do’s” that for and most stallholders speak Eng- dancing towards a worn concrete - From here, the panoramas of Hong can be squeezed into a 48-hour trip. the seafront, a couple of museums lish.
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for good wishes, health and prosper- ity, the pungency of religion hangs heavy in the air.
Walk on the wild side
Hong Kong territory is around three-quarters countryside. Trails range from gentle family walks to tough, long-distance hiking trails. - through woodland, then up to the spine of the dragon with panoramic views of southern Hong Kong Island, the Clearwater Bay Peninsula, and is- lands to the south and east. Dragon’s Back is popular with paragliders who launch themselves from grassy slopes and drift down to a beach at Shek O.
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