Centurion SS15 Issue
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CONTENTS 6 2015 PAGE 19 Milan tailor Francesco Quaranta uses rich fabrics for custom suiting. 8 THE BESPOKIST INSIDE BUSINESS FROM 19 26 FEATURES 38 Spring | Summer | Summer Spring THE EDITOR YOUR MAN IN MILAN THE (NEW) KINGS THE LAST BOAT TO By Jessica Flint Tailor Francesco Quaranta. OF THE CASTLE By Kareem Rashed Landed gentry of the 21st cen- PARADISE (FYI: HELICOPTER tury are becoming increasingly AND CHEF INCLUDED) 20 11 entrepreneurial to save their Sophy Roberts sails the True North A BACKYARD HOLE IN ONE family’s—and nation’s—history. across the Solomon Sea, a previously WHAT’S IT World-class golf at home. By Sarah Rose inaccessible swath of the South Pacific. WORTH? By Thomas Dunne Photographs by Ken Kochey 28 Breguet’s smart watch… 24 DO I HEAR $400 MILLION? 46 building your own island… HIGH-END HOUSE WINE Why a Giacometti sold THE FLORENTINE FIGHT CLUB luxe sporting goods…Kim Having your own label for $101 million. Modern-day gladiators take Kardashian by the numbers… no longer requires By Tyler Cowen to the streets of Florence to compete the new Bentley Mulsanne… owning a vineyard. in a 16th-century death match. and more. By Elizabeth Sile 30 By Lee Marshall FUTURE FORECASTING 25 Photographs by Michael Löwa Talking business at the HOW NOT TO WRITE 66 Jaipur Literature Festival. 52 MY BEST YOUR MEMOIR ASHTON KUTCHER’S INVESTMENT The secret to hiring a 34 TECH TAKEOVER best-selling ghostwriter. THE OLD BILLIONAIRES’ The Hollywood star is the new triple By Mark Cuban By Marisa Meltzer CLUB threat: model, actor, and seriously Centuries-old family-run successful start-up investor. businesses make up By Peter Kafka one of the world’s most Illustration by The Red Dress exclusive societies. By Joshua Levine 56 ’ROUND MIDNIGHT A fashion portfolio of men’s and women’s eveningwear. By Kareem Rashed Photographs by Chris Brooks Photograph by ANDREA FRAZZETTA From the Editor Editor in Chief Richard David Story EDITOR Jessica Flint EXECUTIVE MANAGING EDITOR Deborah Frank DESIGN DIRECTOR Alexander Spacher FEATURES DIRECTOR Heather Halberstadt TIME IS THE ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Robin Rizzuto SENIOR FEATURES EDITOR Julian Sancton ASSOCIATE STYLE EDITOR Kareem Rashed GREAT EQUALIZER ASSOCIATE EDITOR Elizabeth Sile ASSISTANT STYLE EDITOR Lauren Joseph o matter who you are, you have only 24 hours in a DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Lea Golis day. There’s no way to save up or slow the minutes. ART DIRECTOR Marc Davila Time is something that can only be spent. ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR Jordan Bonney N ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR Valeria Suasnavas It’s with this thought in mind that we created CENTURION, PRODUCTION MANAGER Glenn Bo which is not just the newly relaunched and rejiggered maga- COPY CHIEF Janet Kim zine for Centurion Members but also an entirely new kind of ASSOCIATE RESEARCH EDITOR Joe Harper publication, geared toward those for whom time is the most ASSISTANT RESEARCH EDITORS Janaki Challa, Chris Giblin ASSISTANT TO THE EDITOR IN CHIEF Robert Khederian precious investment. These pages provide an easy way to access all that is one of a kind and one in a million (or, in the case of Tyler Cowen’s story Senior Vice President/Publisher Steven L. DeLuca on the art bubble, “Did I Hear $400 Million?”). If you didn’t make it to India for the annual Jaipur Literature Festival, we VICE PRESIDENT/ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Mark Cooper take you to the brainfest in “Future Forecasting,” a precaution- 8 ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, MARKETING ary tale about using big data to drive business decisions. We go Yung Moon behind the scenes with the Hénokiens, a society of 200-plus- ADVERTISING DIRECTOR year-old family-run businesses, in Joshua Levine’s “The Old Kathryn Banino Bano 2015 FASHION DIRECTOR Ed Cortese Billionaires’ Club” and to Silicon Valley in Peter Kafka’s “Ash- JEWELRY & WATCH DIRECTOR Jill Meltz ton Kutcher’s Tech Takeover.” HAWAII Liane Sunn In The Bespokist, a section dedicated to made-to-measure LAS VEGAS/SOUTHWEST Tricia Baak LOS ANGELES Jason Yasment one-upmanship, we had fun doing the legwork in figuring out MIAMI Eric Davis, Jill Stone how to build a world-class golf course in your backyard and GENEVA Philippe Girardot Spring | Summer | Summer Spring tracking down the phone number for the classiest custom suit maker in Milan (not easy—he’s un-Googleable). Time Inc. As for taking time off, there’s no one better in the business CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Joseph Ripp to tell you where to travel to now than Sophy Roberts, who CHIEF CONTENT OFFICER Norman Pearlstine points her compass toward the Solomon Sea in “The Last Boat EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, TIME INC. Evelyn Webster EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER to Paradise.” Jeff Bairstow Enjoy the ride. EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENTS Lynne Biggar, Colin Bodell, Teri Everett, Mark Ford, Greg Giangrande, Lawrence A. Jacobs, Evelyn Webster Jessica Flint CENTURION® Issue No. 1 Editor Published biannually by Time Inc. Afflu ent Media Group, 1120 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10036. CENTURION is a trademark of American Express Marketing & Development Corp. and is used under limited license. Time Inc. Affluent Media Group is not affiliated with American Express Company or its subsidiaries. For customer service regarding your CENTURION magazine subscription, including change of address and replacement copies or to opt out of receiving the magazine entirely, please contact American Express Customer Service at the phone number printed on the back of your Centurion Card. GENERAL OFFICE: 1120 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10036; CONTRIBUTORS 212-522-1212. CENTURION magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, Tyler Cowen, Thomas Dunne, Peter Kafka, drawings, photographs, or other works. All rights in letters sent to CENTURION magazine will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication Anna Kavaliunas, Joshua Levine, Lee Marshall, and copyright purposes and as subject to unrestricted right to edit and to comment editorially. Contents copyright 2015 by American Express Marisa Meltzer, Sophy Roberts, Sarah Rose, Tony Swan Marketing & Development Corp. All rights reserved. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. Member of the Alliance for Audited Media. What’s It Worth? A VALUATION OF PEOPLE, PLACES, AND THINGS NOW ON THE RADAR 11 2015 Spring | Summer | Summer Spring SMART WATCH At a time when the Apple Watch is the hottest trend in horology (nearly 1 million people ordered it the first day it was available), an artfully crafted hand-wound timepiece could seem superfluous. Yet a watch like the Breguet Messidor Tourbillon, which has 201 individual components at work beneath its skeleton display, is what really sets the tech standard. Paying tribute to the first tourbillon, patented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801, the Messidor is a supreme example of watchmaking virtuosity. Sure, tourbillons may no longer be the height of accuracy, but true connoisseurs can appreciate the exacting mechanics that have kept this movement ticking for more than 200 years. With beauty and brains in equal measure, it’s intelligent design in every sense. From $154,200; breguet.com. PROP STYLING BY ARIANA SALVATO AT APOSTROPHE AT ARIANA SALVATO STYLING BY PROP Photograph by GRANT CORNETT What’s It Worth? DNA’S NEW EVOLUTION I NVESTMENT- he golden age of DNA science is upon us, T and where medicine goes, spas follow. Lux- VEHICLE UPDATE ury retreats, like Canyon Ranch (canyonranch he new Hagerty Market Rating tool tracks .com) in Lenox, Mas sachusetts, and Tucson and T the strength of the collector-car market by the St. Regis in Abu Dhabi (dnahealthcorp.com), using an algorithm that incorporates eight main cat- claim that genes should dictate diet, exercise, egories, including not only public-auction results but and relaxation therapies. Treatment packages also, most important, elusive private-sales figures. with names like DNA 4 Life or Nutrigenomics A rating from 1 to 100 is assessed: 35 or less is con- include screenings and consultations to deliver sidered deflationary; 40 to 50 is flat; 60 to 75 is a gene-tailored wellness plan. But can a spit test peak-performance; and above 75 is overheated. As really improve a facial or circuit training? “There of this writing, Hagerty’s rating is 71.81, indicating a is great potential,” says health guru Dr. Andrew healthy, expanding market. hagerty.com Weil of personal DNA analysis. “For example: Who should exercise more vigorously, who less?” Genetic tests reveal heritable diseases, but at the spa, on the wellness level, the information “doesn’t come as a real surprise —you know yourself, your OBJET D’SPORT family,” says Craig Barnard, founder of St. Lucia’s 12 he term “luxury sporting goods” brings 13 BodyHoliday resort (thebodyholiday.com). REAL ESTATE’S to mind Louis Vuitton tennis rackets and Your genetic code can tweak the margins, but you T Pucci ski suits. Designer Elisabeth Weinstock, still have to work out, eat right, and relax. however, has upped the extravagance quotient, 2015 NEXT FRONTIER rendering standard-issue sports gear in exotic 2015 skins, like a handmade football in anaconda or a Netherlands-based company Dutch Docklands builds private baseball and bat in boa. Weinstock prides herself islands anywhere in the world a client wants one. THE BEYONCÉ on her infinite custom offerings, meaning you can get your pigskin in any shade of snakeskin. (Rihanna recently commissioned a pair of boxing gloves in electric yellow, and an injured Usher or- Spring | Summer | Summer Spring utch Docklands’ sales pitch is short but sweet: “We build | Summer Spring your own island, completely catered to your own needs,” CASE STUDY dered crutches and a surgical boot in gold-dipped snake.) Though the pieces are meant strictly for says Frank Behrens, the company’s executive vice president.