NEW BRITAIN WITH THE FRENCH ISLANDS AND THE DUKE OF YORKS 1 New Britain with the French Islands and the Duke of Yorks 1. The Land entire line from Cape Gloucester in the west to he main island of the Bismarck Archipelago Cape Stephens in the north-west, there stretches Tis unquestionably the island of New Britain. a number of active volcanoes arranged in groups, From its northernmost point, Cape Stephens, it and numerous extinct craters bear witness to the stretches first in a southerly direction about 100 kilo- strength of the subterranean fire. Earthquakes metres to the isthmus that joins this northern part, are not infrequent today, although they cause less the Gazelle Peninsula, to the main island. Then the trouble; they are, however, still strong enough to land extends about 200 kilometres to the south- arouse feelings of anxiety at their onset, and to be west to a second constriction between Jac quinot a reminder that one day they could bring about an Bay to the south and Commodore Bay to the un expected, calamitous catastrophe, against which north. From there the rest of the island runs mainly people are powerless. Several of the earthquakes westward, a distance of about 270 kilometres, the that I have experienced during my many years’ stay broad Willaumez Peninsula jutting out towards in the archipelago would have been, in spite of the north. The total length of the island is about their short duration, strong enough to devastate 560 kilometres. The breadth is quite variable; from a European town thoroughly; the solid stone Cape Lambert in the north-west as far as Cape buildings at home would have collapsed inwards, Gazelle in the north-east the breadth is about while out here the natives’ huts and the settlers’ 90 kilo metres, while the isthmus that joins the houses built of wood indeed creak and groan in peninsula to the main island would not be much truly every joint, and thus shake so severely that more than 20 kilometres. The greatest breadth standing upright actually becomes extremely dif- of the island occurs between the northernmost ficult, yet because of their style of construction, point of Wil laumez Peninsula and South Cape, they do not collapse. approximately 145 kilometres; a narrower part is The most well-known area up to now is the found further on, between Jacquinot Bay and the northern part of the island, the Gazelle Peninsula; north coast, about 50 kilometres. The surface area that is, we know fairly thoroughly only the region of the island and the small neighbouring groups lying east, north and north-west from Vunakokor is approximately 34,000 square kilometres; that (Varzinberg). In recent years the high mountain is, about as much as the Grand Duchy of Baden range forming the western edge of the peninsula, and the Kingdom of Württemburg put together. usually called the Baining Mountains, is starting to The preceding measurements make no claim to become better known to us, thanks to the Catholic absolute accu racy. A precise survey of the island mission that has been established there. Beyond was undertaken by the Imperial Navy a few years Vunakokor the area really is still completely un- ago, and at the conclusion other values were most explored, and for the remainder of the island our probably provided, since the earlier measurements total knowledge shrinks to the coastal strip and the and cartographical representations which form the offshore islands, and here too we must regretfully basis of the values given here are admittedly very concede that our knowledge is only sketchy. superficial and imperfect. However, every excursion, no matter how small, As far as we know, two main geological forma- into these unknown regions, steadily brings us new tions appear to predominate in the island’s struc- and unexpected discoveries and experiences. For ture, namely volcanic lava and coral formations; the later travellers and explorers there will still remain latter raised high above sea level by the strength much to do, and a series of interesting surprises of the volcanic activity. Volcanic action continues certainly lies ahead of them. Over the years the basic today, although compared with earlier times it survey of the island by the Imperial Navy will also has un doubtedly declined significantly. Along the bring us much information about the inhabitants. 1 THIRTY YEARS IN THE SOUTH SEAS As the mail steamer from Australia approaches distance upstream from the mouth. The sea depth the coast of New Britain, the eye picks up, chiefly increases rapidly off the beach, and good anchor- far to the north-west and west, hazy blue moun- ages are not available here. Henry Reid Bay is an tains whose peaks are frequently covered in thick exception, but even it offers a secure mooring only cloud. Gradually the outlines become sharper; the during a north-west wind. high Cape Orford with the mountain range behind As soon as Cape Palliser is passed, the scenery stands out clearly, and also to the north-east the changes. To begin with, the mountains retreat some- outlines of high mountains stand out against the what and the slopes become more gentle; the uni- skyline – the highlands of southern New Ireland. form dark green of the tropical forest is interrupted Soon St George’s Channel is clearly marked by by larger or smaller, grassy, pale-green shimmering the high land of New Britain in the west and New fields, and the further north we go, the more these Ireland to the east. The direction of this inlet, fields increase in extent, interrupted by patches of roughly 35 kilometres wide at the middle, is ap- forest and traversed by deep, wooded ravines. proximately along a north-south line. On pre-1890 A little north of Cape Palliser lies a small bay, charts navigators were warned of unknown dangers protected by an offshore coral reef with two small there; we have known for a very long time now islets, and forming a good harbour even if only for that the navigable waters of St George’s Channel small vessels. The natives call the place Mutlar and are deep and without any hindrance to navigation, visit it occasionally to hunt turtles. A little north although from time to time, depending on the lies a small, concealed harbour, Rügenhafen (Put- prevailing wind, a strong current sets through the put to the natives), that I discovered in 1884 on a strait, alternating between northerly and southerly, boat trip along the coast. The entrance is narrow, against which sailing ships are almost powerless. so that only one ship at a time can pass through; The east coast of the Gazelle Peninsula presents branches of the mighty forest trees, which extend itself to the beholder from St George’s Channel as from both sides over the narrow channel, brush the a high, mountainous land. The isthmus that forms ship’s sides here and there with their foliage. Yet the connection with the main island is significantly nowhere in the entrance is the water depth less than lower; it is formed from raised coral limestone. The 13 metres, and in the basin which opens beyond same formation predominates on the east coast of this pass, a great number of vessels find room to the main island, with outcrops of volcanic rock in- anchor in depths of 11 to 12 metres. Vessels lie land. The mountains in the south of the peninsula absolutely securely here, and since Rügenhafen and are wooded throughout, rounded in form, with Mutlarhafen are the only safe harbours on the east- not very steep slopes, so that they seem well suited ern side of the Gazelle Peninsula, they are certain for establishing plantations. Numerous streams, to become of no lesser importance over the course large and small, furrow through the valleys, several of years when the establishment of plantations has of which cut deeply into the land. Into the small, opened up the hinterland. At present the shoreline Henry Reid Bay in the south of the peninsula flows still consists of a thick, tropical forest flora; noth- quite a large stream, navigable by boats for a fair ing stirs on the surface of the crystal-clear basin, Fig. 1 Coral limestone rock, coast of St George’s Channel 2 NEW BRITAIN WITH THE FRENCH ISLANDS AND THE DUKE OF YORKS screeching cockatoos greet the visitor, and flocks At the river mouth the New Guinea Company of pigeons inhabit the treetops. Far and wide, had set up a sawmill a few years ago, to exploit the deep, silent, forest tranquillity reigns, for the entire abundant stands of timber, especially the valuable region is uninhabited; from time to time natives stand of eucalyptus. come from far away to exploit the abundance of Onward from the mouth of the Warangoi the fish in the harbour here. landscape creates an increasingly pleasing and About 4 kilometres north of Rügenhafen, a agreeable impression. The coconut groves become broad, deep valley cuts far into the land. Here is the thicker, in places forming a dense border to the mouth of one of the largest waterways of the penin- beach, and on the hills their tops project above sula, the Warangoi, which is named Karawat further the forest; extensive cultivated fields reveal the inland. The fall is steep and the amount of water presence of people, whose grass-covered huts peep during the dry period of the year is not significant; out of the greenery on the beach, and also on the in the rainy season it is transformed into a foam- high plateau and its slopes.