KASHMIR IN SUNLIGHT & SHADE Kashmir in Swilight and Shade: Describing its beauties, Cr-the habits and customs, &< gradual rebuildinr; of a once downtrodden people. By c. E. TY.BAL&·BISCOB, M.A., Cantab. s8 Illustrations I!; a Map. Demy Bvo. 121. 6d. net. The Rift Valleys and the Geol- o~y of Bast Africa. · By Prof. J. W. GRIIGORY, D.Sc., F.R.S. Witla many Illustratioas I!; Maps. 3n. net. A Diplomat in Japaa. The Inner History of tile Critical Years in the Evolution of Japan wheft the Ports were Opened 6r" tb Monarchy Restored, Recorded by a Diplomatist who took an active part in the events of the time. By Tile :Right Hon. Sir ERNBST SATow, G.C.H.G., British Minister, Peking, '19oo-5; Formerly Secretary to tlte British Legatioa at Tokio. With Illustratioas. Demy ho. ]:H. net, Ia Farthest Burma. An Arduous J oumey of Exploration tluoagh the Frontier Territory of Burma 6r" Tibet. By Captain F. KINGDOM WARD, B.A., F.Jt.G.S. Witlt. Illustrations I!; Maps. Demy Bve, 1151- net. S6~•11d Edititm, The Life and Exploratiou of ' Frederick Stanley Arnot. . Authorised Biot;rapby of a Zealous Missionary & Intrepid J:zplorer, By Ea•KST B.A.IC&R. With maay Illustrations~ a Map. Demy lvo, us. 6d.aet. Ia Unknown China. A Record of the Ob~erntions, Ad­ venturesb- Experiences of a Pioneer amon&:st tile wild~ unknowa Nosa tribe of Wester& China. By S. PoLLARD. Many Illustrations. Two Maps. Demy lvo. •ss. net. Among the lbo1 of Nigeria. The Curious I!; lnterestinJ:: Habits, Customs 6r" Beliefs of a Little Kanwn African People. By G. T. BASDEN, M.A., F.R.G.S. With. 37 Illustrations ~ a Map. Demy lvo. •ss. net, s.c.,d EtiitiM. ·Unexplored New Guinea. Travels, Adventures C,. Experiences of a Resilient :tla~:istrate in the Unexplored Interior of New Guinea. By WILFaas N. Bruvaa, with an In· troduction by A. C. HADDON, :t.f.A., Sc.D., F.R.S. With 24 Illustrations 1!1- 4 Maps. Demy he. •ss. net. Modern Whaling- and Bear- HuntiDJ'. A Record er Preseat-clay Whalinr. By W. G. liUJIN Muaooc11, F.R.S.G.S. Witla no IllastrationL Demy lvo, •SS· net. Tlwtl Editi­ Prehistoric Man ~ His Story. _ A Sketcll of tho History of Mankind from the J:arliest Times. By Prof. G. F.ScoTT ELLIOT, M.A.(CANTAII), B.Sc.(i:.din.), F.Jt.S.J:., F.L.S., r.Jt..G.S. Witla 56 Illustrations. z-. 6d. net.

IKJ:L&Y1 SER.VICE ,. CO. LTD. Ph~to by [G. W . Mi!lais . .:\lU LBE :\loc A TERY.

A Lama on the look-out. KASHMIR iN SUNLIGHT & SHADE A DESCRIPTION OF THE BEAUTIES OF THE COUNTRY, THE LIFE, HABITS AND HUMOUR OF ITS INHABITANTS, AND AN ACCOUNT OF THE GRADUAL BUT STEADY REBUILDING OF A ONCE DOWN­ TRODDEN PEOPLE

BY C. E. TYNDALE BISCOE, M.A.(CANTAB.) AUTIIOI. OF "MEN IN THE MAKING," E!fc,

WITH AN INTR.ODUCTION BY MAJOR-GEN. L. C. DUNSTER VILLE, C.B., C.S.I. AUTHOI\ OF ' 1 THE ADVENTURES OF THE DUNSTER FORCE"

WITH 28 ILLUSTRATIONS q. A MAP

LONDON SEEL~Y, SERVICE & c·o. LIMITED 38 GREAT RUSSELL STREET 1922 INTRODUCTION

N intimate friendship of many years may perhaps give me authority to express my admiration for A the author of the present volume as a man and as a worker. His reluctance to undertake the task, the outcome of natural modesty, was with difficulty overcome, and I gladly seized the opportunity which was offered to me, of prefacing his lively account of Kashmir and its people with a few words which may perhaps be inadequate, but at any rate are actuated by sincere feelings of the deepest regard and highest admiration. My natural tendency is to employ the space at my disposal in a eulogy of the author and his methods, but I know him well enough to feel that he would wish to be spared my superlatives, and I will leave it to the readers to express their own feelings. Having, however, known him, and the land in which he works, for so many years, and having had many first-hand opportunities of admiring his system, I must allow myself just a few words to introduce this apostle of cheerful and happy Christianity to those of the public who, may not know him. "In all things be men" sums up the fundamental idea in his teaching of Christianity, for true manliness entails virtue and rejects vice. A born optimist, who regards dangers and difficulties as so many hurdles to give the racer the pleasure of leaping, a strong, forceful character with .unshakable ideals and an unswerving determination to move without 7 Introduction hesitation towards those ideals, a striver with a strong sense of humour and good sportmanship, and an indomit­ able courage, both moral and physical ; such are briefly the traits that have enabled this indefatigable missionary to realise the remarkable success that has attended his lifelong efforts. Although it is not the case that a large proportion of his pupils have definitely decided to accept Christ, it is nevertheless beyond doubt that the majority of his staff and boys leave the school having learnt to lead lives more nearly following the teaching of Christ than those of many professing Christians. As an instance of this I give the following example which I have not hitherto told to Mr Tyndale Biscoe. I was walking with a rather corpulent companion in Kashmir some years ago when we came to a small stream about ten yards acros$ and about two feet deep. I had on rough shooting boots and putties,. and I do not mind getting my feet. wet, so I crossed without further ado. My friend, however, disliked wet boots and looked about for some way out of the dilemma. A rather frail-looking Kashmiri arrived at this juncture, and my heavy friend suggested in rather rough language that he should act as a beast of burden and convey his bulky form over the water.' Without hesitation the Kashmir! obeyed the request, crouching before the, heavy gentleman to enable the latter to place himself comfortably on his shoulders. With legs rather bending beneath his burden the docil~ carrier crossed the stream and placed my companion dry-shod on the opposite bank. Translating his gratitude into pecuniary form the Englishman .. offered a silver coin to the late beast of burden and was surprised to receive the following answer in very good English:-" No, thank you, sir. I am one 8 Introduction of Mr Tyndale Biscoe's masters and I am glad to have helped you." I have never seen anyone so dumbfounded , as my friend, and as we continued, our walk he appeared to me to be thinking rather deeply. Readers of this book will notice that it is one of Mr Tyndale Biscoe's characteristics to reach his objective by the most direct means possible, ignoring or brushing aside all obstacles as of small moment so long as he does attain his goal. L. C. DuNsTERVILLE, Major-General.

THE Ca.ou, Poa.T ST Mnv,

9 AUTHOR'S NOTE

MUST express my thanks to my headmaster, Mr Shanker Pandit, B.A., who has allowed me to draw I upon his knowledge of the ancient , and of the various rites and ceremonies, both of Hindus and Mohammedans, with respect to birth, death, marriage, etc. What my friend Shanker does not know concerning his country is not worth knowing. Mr R. E. Shorter, photographer in Sialkote and Kashmir, has most generously placed the whole of his huge collection of photos at my disposal, and a beautiful collection it is, the work of many years. Mr Geoffrey Millais, the son of the late Sir John Millais, R.A., who inherits the talents of his father for making pictures, also Vishn Nath Pandit, the first Kashmiri to start a photographic business, and my brother, George Tyndale Biscoe, have given me their permission to make use of any of their photographs, and I thank them most sincerely for their kindness.

II CONTENTS

CHAPTER I PAOB MY FIRST JOURNEY INTO KASHMIR I7

CHAPTER II BEAUTIFUL SECLUDED VALLEYS 39

CHAPTER Ill THE TOWNS IN THE VALLEY 55

CHAPTER IV THE KASHMIRIS 6o

CHAPTER V KASHMIR, ANCIENT AND MODERN •

CHAPTER VI CHARACTER OF THE KASHMIRIS 77

CHAPTER VII MOHAMMEDANS AND HINDUS 95

CHAPTER VIII MOSQUES, TEMPLES AND SHOPS

CHAPTER IX STREETS AND BAZAARS

CHAPTER X TRADES, LEPERS AND BEGGARS 126

CHAPTER XI FASHIONS IN DRESS • . . 137

CHAPTER XII BRAHMANS AND SADHUS 13 Contents CHAPTER XIII PAOB HINDU CusToMs 153 CHAPTER XIV BOAT-BUILDING 169 CHAPTER XV EXPEDITIONS 182

I CHAPTER XVI A TRIP TO LADAKH 197 CHAPTER XVII A TRIP TO LADAKH (continued) 210 CHAPTER XVIII A TRIP TO LADAKH (continued) 216 CHAPTER XIX KASHMIR MEDICAL MISSION 234 CHAPTER XX EDUCATION . 253 CHAPTER XXI A KASHMIR MISSION SCHOOL 260 CHAPTER XXII A KAsHMIR MISSION ScHOOL (continued) . 272 CHAPTER XXIII A KASHMIR MISSION SCHOOL (continued) • 289 CHAPTER XXIV A KASHMIR MissioN ScHooL (continued) . 299

INDEX 310 INDEX

AnGONAMD, Raja, 68 Boat, an Oxford-built, 17 4 Afghan coolies, a rough lot of, 30 Boat-building, 1 69 Mghan and the subaltern, the, 1 51 Boat club, the European, 17 3 Mghans, Kashmir under the, 26 Boat people, morals of the, 96 Ahmad Shah Durani, 74 Boatmen, 94, 97 the Great, 72, 87 Boats, 89, 92 Albruni the historian, 69 Boland, Father, 84 Ali Kadal, 116 Brahman carpenters, 26 I Ali Shah, 71 Brahman clerk in his home, the, I 43 Amar Nath, 146 Brahman, dress of the, I 42 Amritsar station, I 8 Brahman holy man or Sadhu, I 44 Anglo-Indians, 6o Brahman restrictions, 265 Ankhor tree, the poisonous, 54 'Brahmani sacred bull, the, 1 2 3 Appleford and· the Afghan, 31 Brahmans at prayer, 101 Asoka, introducer of Buddhism, 69 Brahman's thread, the, 140 Athletics, 2 75 Brahman's toilet, a, 139 , 74 Brass pots of the Hindus, IOI Bridges, 89 BARAMVLLA, 30, 36, 55' 192 British and natives, 20 Barbers, 130 British Resident, the, 75 Barges, State, 90 Bud Shad, 11 5 Barges, the building of, 170 Buddhism in Kashmir, 69 Barr, Col. D., 264 Buffalo, origin of the, 4 I Bathe, an uncomfortable, 20I Buffaloes, 41 "Batish," the, 133 Bugle, the driver's, 24 Batta Mazir, 75 Bulbul, the, 158 Bears, 43 Bulbul Shah, 70 Bedding, I7 Burial ceremonies, 163 Beggars, I 30 Burial custom, a curious, 203 Besant, Mrs Annie, I I o "Burka," the, t 50. Beyond the Pir Punjal, Dr E. Burma and Kashmir contrasted, I o6 Neve's, 248 Bhishties or water-carriers, 22, CARAVANS, 207 107 Caste marks, 140 Bicyding episodes, 12 I Cataract, operations for, 232 Birch bark for roofs, 87 Cavalcade, an imposing, 2 I 9 Birds, fortunate and unfortunate, Central Asia, travellers from, I 34 158 Ceremonial ablutions, I o I "Black art," the, 165 Champion liars, 2 7 o ~lack bear and carpenter, the, 46 '' Chang " or beer, 21 o 310 Index Chang Chenmo, 203 Egg collecting, 190 Children, 156 Elmslie, Dr, 240 Cholera, 63, 306 Embroidery work, 132 Chowkidar and the milk, So Epidemics, 62 Christian, Capt., 231 Evil eye, the, 107 C.M.S., the, 239 Examinations; 2 56 C.M.S. High School, 110 Expeditions, 182 Clark, Rev. R., and the "black art," 165 Complexion of Kashmiri women, 6o . F AMU.Y life in winter, 64 Consumption, 63 Fateh Kadal, 113 Fires, 88 Coolies, 20, 33, 82 Copper work, 1 3 3 Fitze, Miss, 2 59 Flattery, adepts at, 143 Coverdale, Miss, 2 58 Cow-killing, penalties for, 123 Fleas, I98 Cremation, 160 Floods, 303 Football game, the first, 2 77 Cruelty to animals, 124 Foul language, 274 Fruits, 56 DAILYAS, ss , 55, 8 5 Dal, an unrehearsed effect on the, GADA BAT A, rite of, 68 176 Gadhi, 76 Damudhar Udar, 159 Games, the value of, 268 Danudar, Raja, 69 Ganger, a dishonest, 3 I Death, ceremonies at, 1 56, 16 3 Ganges, the, 157 Delivery, ceremonies before and Genge, Lieut., 2 3 2 after, 153 Gharis, 2I Demons, exorcising, 167 Ghat or yaribal, the, 105 Dentists, 13 I Ghi, 42 Dhobi or washerman, the, 104 Ghost in a mosque, story of a, Dirty habits of the Kashmiris, I o6 117 . Display, love of, 61 Ghusal or professional washer, 163 Dogras, the, 77 Gilgit, 55 Dome), 30 Gilgit road, forced labour on the, Doongas and house-boats, 96 236 Downes, Dr E., 240 Girls, the education of, 2 57 Dras, 202 Glacier, crossing a, 231 Dress, bright colours in, 141 . Glacier, at the foot of a, 224 Dress of the Brahman, 142 "Gog Sahib," 260 Dress, men's and women's, 138 Graduates and. State appointments, Dress, picturesque, at Ladakh, 2 13 259 Dudh Ganga, the, 187 , Grasping officials, 241 Duni Chand, Col., 2 51 Grenfell, Dr W., 246 Durga, 85 Griffith, Padre, 2 3 Gujars or cow-herds, 42 EAGLEs, 190 Gulab Singh, Mahara jab, 26, 7 5 Edipsea, 1 59 , 39 . 3H Index HADOw, ~r C. M., 4 7 Kashmir-continued , Hangi fights, 9 5 Singh, 26 ; Ranbir Singh, 26 ; Hanuman, temple of, 116 Pratab Singh, 26; views in, 55 ; Hari Parbat, 8 5 fruits and exports, s6; industries, Hatti bungalow, 34 59, ns, 132; epidemics, 59, Hazrat Bal mosque, 113, 244 62, 248, 396; people, 6o; Health officer and Brahman priests, women, 6o, 1o I ; sanitation, the, 63 6o; , 38, 83, 87 .; Heber, Dr and Mrs, 223 villages, 64; history, 67 ; geo­ Hemis monastery, 224 logy, 68; Huns, 69; Tartars, Henna ceremony, the 1 54 69 ; Mohammedans, 69, 7 z, Himalayas, the, 17 Ioo, 234; religion, 69; Mogul, Hindus at prayer, IOI 72; cession to England, 7 5 ; Horoscope, the, 153 humour, So, I 3 5 ; character; 7 7 ; Hospitality, 2 I habits, I o6, 1 14 ; immorality, House-boats, 17 8 96 ; Rajas, 242 ; customs, I 31, Houses of Srinagar, 87, 108, 132 161, 203; Brahmans, 101, 139, Humour of the Kashmiris, So 142, 144, 265; education, 151, Humour and tragedy, 135 253,256,259, 261 Huns in Kashmir, 69 "Kashmiri," a term of abuse, 78 Kashmiri Sadhus, 1 49 In GAH, 117 Kashmiri women, 6o Ill-treatment of animals, 294 Kashmiris, the, 6o Immorality of the river people, 96 Kawa Punim, rite of, 68 Insanitary conditions, 114 Kechi Mavas, rite of, 68 Islamabad, 59 Kennard, Mr, J 7 8 Islamabad, Mrs Bishop's hospital Khos, 75 at, z52 Kinaras, I 7 I lsmalia the boatman, 98 Kindergarten system, 261 Itch, prevalence of, 59 Kishen Ganga, the, 29 Kites, daring, 12 3 JACKALS, 5Z Knowles, Rev. J. H., 260, 263 ., 71 Kohala, 26 J aluki, Raja, 69 Konsar Nag Lake, 191 Jhats or Sikh farmers, 19 Kotitirtha, 56 , 35, 84 Joseph, 22I LACUSTRINE deposits, 68 Jumma Musjid mosque, 134 Ladakh, 215 Jummu, 75 Lamayuru, 216 Landslips, 32 KALI GHAT, the, I I4 Lawrence, Lord J., 84 Kangri or fire-pot, the, 139 Lawrence, Sir W., So Kardang Pass,·223 Legends and traditions, 67 Kargil, 203 Leh, 218 Karma, the law of, 157 Leper hospital, 248 Kashmir: and Mghans, 26; Lepers, 129 Sikhs, 26; Rajputs, 26; Gulab Leprosy, 2+8 3U .Index Liquor shops, 127 Monasteries and lamas, 211 Locusts, zz Monastery band, a, 21 o Lunatics, 129 Monastery of Lamayuru, z 16 I.. ynx, the, 52 Monkeys, Himalayan, 52 Monks and nuns, 2 1 8 · M'CoaMICK, Miss Lucy, 243 Mos Deen Khan, story of, 2 3 5 Maha Ganisha, the elephant god, Mosques and temples of Srinagar, 86 84 Maha Shri, temple of, I 1 S Mosquitoes, 57 Maharajah Gulab Singh, 87 Mountain dwellers, 6) Maharajah of Kashmir, generosity Mountain road, story of a, 29 ofthe, Z5I Mourners, professional, I 61 Maharajabs, attitude of the, 242 Mulbek monastery, 208 Maharajah's temple, the, 109 Mullah Khan, 74 Mahmud of Ghuzni, 69 Munshi, the, 61 Mahseer, the, 57 Munshi Bagh, the, 84 Mail runners' shelter, zoo Murree, 26 Maina, the, 8 5 Mussulman at prayer, the, 100 Malodorous river, the, 106 Mussuth band, 74 Manisbal Lake, 184 Margs, 39 NADIR SHAH, 74 Marmots, z 3 1 I Nanga Parbat, 41 Marriage middleman, the, 16 I Naseem Bagh, 58 Marriages, arrangement of, I 55, I6I Nawa Kadal, I 16 Marsa Lake, I 86 N edou & Sons, 40 Marx, Dr, zzz N estorian Christians, 21 3 Massage among coolies, 6 5 Neve, Dr, 146, 197 Mastiffs, savage, zz8 Neve, Dr A., 241, 248 Match-maker, or marriage go- Neve, Dr E. F., 242 between, J 3 I Neve, Miss Nora, 243 Maxwell, Dr T., 240 Newman, Miss, 197, 252 Maypole dance, a, zo8 Nicholson, Gen. J., 84 Medal, a Brahman's fateful, 140 Nisbet, Col. Parry,and the mountain ' Medical aid in Kashmir, 2 SI road, 27, 29 Mehrakula the Hun king, 69 N ur J ahan, 11 .S Middleman, the marriage, 161 Milkmen, I 34 OFFICERS and panther, 58 Mir Sayid Ali of Hamdan, 113 Oppressed people, an, 79 Mission Hospital, the, 84, 244 Oppression, native, zo Mission at Leh, the, zzz Ordeal by battle, z 7 2 Mitchell, Mr W., 40 Mogul Subadars, 74 pADDLES, Stolen, I 7 8 Mohammedan invasions, 69 Pagodas, 2 1 2 Mohammedan kings, oppression of Pagri, the uses of a, "I 3 7 the, 72 Pandits, 72 Mohammedans, oppre~aion of, by Pang Gong Lake, 203 Hindus,_ z 3+ Panthers, 4 7 . 313 Index Paper making, introduction of, 72 Rites ancl ceremonies, 68 Pariah dogs, I 24 River scenes, 92 Pathans, 3I Red beards, 120 Patthar Masjid mosque, 11; · Redslop, Dr, 2 2 2 Pestle and mortar, the family, 6; " Refuges," 289 Petrie, Miss Irene, 2 2 3 Religious rites and ceremonies, 68 "Pheron," the, I 38 Renehan S}lah, 69 Physique of Kashmiri, 62 Rest-houses, 200 Pigs, wild, ; 1 Robinson, Rev. A. J., 287 Pine-martens, ; 2. . Roofs, 87 Pipe, an -improvised, 230 Rope bridges, 3 5 Pir Pun jal Mts, 84 Rowing, 299 " Pirak,'' a, 2 If Russia, menace of, 30 Play, a religious, 22 5 Policemen, I 8 SADDLES, I 32 ' Political Officer, the, 27 Sadhu, a chivalrous, 1 49 Polo, 2IO Sadhu and the Mission School, Polo at Leh, 2 20 I48 Polyandry, 224 Sadhus, I46 Ponies, cruelty to, 28 Saffa Kadal, I I 6 Poonch state, the, 78 Sakhi Muni Gaotam, or Buddha, Pratab Singh, Maharajah Sir, 27, 69 7) Sangi Safed, 187 Pravarasena, 86 Sartorius, Colonel, I 73 Prayer flags, 212 Schools, indigenous, 2 53 Prayers, 99 Servants, the custom of, 229 Praying wheels, 2 I 2 Shah Hamdan, 70 Prideaux, Colonel, 2 7 Shah Hamdan, mosque of, I 1 3 Public examinations, candidates for, , 74 I )I Sharika, the hill of, 86 Shawl industry, the, I I 5 QAZI, I6I Shawl weavers, pitiable condition Qutub-ud-Din, 70 of, 238. Shawl weaving, introduction of, 7 2 RAciNG eight, a, I 76 Sheep as carriers, 207 Railway carriages, I 8 Sheikh Bagh, the, 84 Railway passengers, native, I 9 Shergol monastery, 230 "Raja Kat," the, I 58 Shikara, the, 89 Raja Sandiman, 8 3 Shops, 126 Raja Sir Amar Singh, 2 56 Shroud for the dead, 163 Rajas of Kashmir, 68 Sikh fort, the, 8 5 Rajputs, Kashmir under the, 2 6 Sikhs, the, and Kashmir, 26 Ram Chand, a holy man, 147 Sindh Valley, the, 197 Ranbir Singh,~Mahara jab, 2 7 Single-sticks for healing divisions, Ran jit Singh, 7 5 273 Rawal Pindi, I 8 Small-pox, 62,!132 Rice, husking, 6 5 Snakes, I98 Jit Index "Sneaking," 272 Transmigration, theories about, 15• Sneezing, superstition about, 1 58 Trees in Leh, 220 · Snow-clad mountains, 13 3 Trench, Capt. C., I97, 203 Social service, 280 Trips, the value of, 187 Sona Marg, 198 Turban as a sign of vocation, I 3 7 Sopor, 38, 57 ·Typhoid, 63 Spedding, Mr, contractor, 30 Srinagar, 38, 83, 87 UNIFORMED robbers, 135 Staff, the school, 262 Stages in the boys' education, 292 · VACCINATION and small-pox, 158 Stamps, Kashmiri, 91 Valleys of Kashmir, 39 State schools, 2 55 "Van," I6I Storrs, Rev. W. J., 238 Varaha, temple of, 56 Street episodes, annoying, 119 Varamul or , 56 Sulphur springs, 59 Vaughan, Dr Janet, 252 Sundri, our pet monkey, 53 Villages, 64 Superstitions, 158, 167 Vishnu, 56 Suru, R., 230 Swimming, 296 WADE, Rev. T. R., and the" black art," I65, 240 "TAFFY," I I I Wardwan Valley, 232 Takht-i-Suliman, 8 3 ·water-carriers~ women as, I 07 Tamerlane and the poor man, 70 Wedding parties, boatmen's, 118 Tarsa Lake, I 86. Weddings and wedding feasts, I 55 Tartars, invasion by, 69 Well and the horse, the, 2 5 Tati Kuti, I 88 Wives, duties of, I s6 Tears, and laughter, 2+ 7 Woodwork, 59 Technical school, 2 56 Woman's place in Hind~ism, IOI Telegraph Office, State, 90 Women of Ladakh, status of the, Temperance Society, a, 127 21+ Textile industries, 59 , 38, )7, 192 Thirty -Tears in Kashmir, Dr Neve's, 236 Y ADHUS, the, 69 Thorp, Lieut. R., 234, 239 Yarkandi, Serai, 117 Thread ceremony, the, I 5+ Tibetan Buddhists, 2 13 Z.AIN•UL-ABIDIN, 72 Timber, 56 Zana Kadal, I I 5 · Tollman and bicycle, the, 27 Zenana Hospital, 2 52 Tonga, the, 23 Ziarats or shrines, 86 Trade marks on clothes, 141 , 199

liS PIUNTED BY THE RlVER!IIDB: P.u:ss LnwuTm, EDlNBUllG& 1922 THE LIFE & EXPLORATIONS OF FREDERICK STANLEY ARNOT F.R.G.S. The Authorised Biography of a Great Missionary

BY THE REVEREN D ERNEST BAKER Author of " The Return of the Lord."

Demy 8vo. Illustrations & Map. Price 12s. 6d. N et'

S O ME EARLY REVIEWS.

" A second Dr. Livingstone .. . as stimulating a s it is interesting,"-Aur4u .. /~ ,..,. .. /. '' Amongst the greatest of Travellers. "-Glasg-ow Hwa ld. " A rich a nd moving book. "-Jf.tlt,.iist R1ct1rthr.

" This book is a worthy memorial t o a e-reat man and a g reat wack. ·- a;,..,;~;..H< GU~ ftt. " We know very few missionary blogTa pbies equally IMPRESSIVE A ND T OUCHING. Arnot was spiritually A VERY GREAT MAN. T hat he was one of t he most faithful of Christ's servants is a pparent from every page of the book. Mr. Ba ker has done his work in the ri&'ht spirit, a nd with full sym­ pathy. . . . There was much of a usterity in Arnot's career , but t here was no s everity. There is a quiet and pat ient reliance through all-a reliance which carried him through most exacting circumsta nces. . . . One authority said t hat he ha d two great char- acteristics of a thorough Africa n tra ... eller- pluck and kindness to t he natives . . .. S ir Francis de W inton said t ha t Mr. Arnot had made the name of Ene-lishman respected wherever be went, and had helped efl'ect ually in stopping the sla'OI'e trade."-Britis4 W ultly.

"A GREAT STORY GREATLY TOLD. F rom first pa ge to last this book is of com­ pelling inter est. The diaries of the Great African Missionary are laid under contri- bution and the result is not only a fucinating story of ad...enture ana tTa'OI'el, nat an autobiog ra phical record ofimmense value. THE ' BOOK IS LIKELY TO RANK: AS A CLASSIC.''-We.r/6,... Daily P r1ss. " Fall of exciting incidents, the yoane- can find in it plenty of remarkable jun&"le atorles, and thoae of riper years will enjoy the &Taphic descriptions of travel in the tropics, the folk­ lore, and especially the • ner'OI'e ' of Stanley Arnot in boldly facing and o...ercoming any task from ' buying ' a little slave to amputating a chief's arm with a penknife and an old razor I Or, a g ain, in boldly t elling Cecil Rhodes that he would not play his game, and aa boldly denouncing P ortuguese and native rulers for prosecuting the horrible traffic in al&'OI'es. " M 4flcltest" c-rtli•"·

SEELEY. SERVICE fS CO., LTD., 88 GREAT RUSSELL STRE.ET, W.C. AMONG THE IBOS -OF NIGERIA An Account of the Curious & Interesting Habits, Customs, & Beliefs of a Little-known African People by one who has for Many Years Lived Amongst Them on Close & Intimate Terms BY G. T. BASDEN, M.A., F.R.G.S.

A YOUNG AwiU. GIBL Demy Svo. With 32 Illustrations & a lJlap. Price 25s. NeU

SOME EARLY REVIEWS. " E~ertly and admirably handled; the book is wiUaout question one of the most fascinatmg or ita kind. .. -illNst1'4/ed Lou- N ftlll. "One of those books which make a people live before us•••• Most admirably llius. trated. "-Baptist Times. - " One of the most readable books about primitive peoplea which have appeared in recent years."-MaN:Itest" Gtlartii•"·. "The author knows his subject, not as an observant, impressionable tourist, but as a man who bas lived among the lbos for many years."-Birmitcg"•"' G~~U~ette. "The classical authority on the very curious people it describes."-Recorrl.. "A comprehensive study of the customs and beliefs or the lbo people, describing their marriage usages, their bUrial rites, their arts, crafts, music, trade and currency; their ways of making war; their religious beliefs (so far as these can be accuratel;r discovered), and their sacrificial rites.••• There are nearly forty admirable photographs.' -Times. "A mass of information about lbo life and character and customs which is probably unique, and which no British official or trader can ever hope to possess ; and the substance of this information the author bas condensed into these twe11ty-6ve well arranged a.nd well written chapters."-Recwd. " He tells us what be knows about the Ibos-and he knows a great deal.••. He knows too much to dogmatise..•• What be does say one accepts without question.-Ti•es. SEELEY. SERVICE f!i CO., LTD.• 38 GREAT RUSSELL STREET, W.C. IN UNKNOWN CHINA A Record of the Observations, Adventures and Experiences of a Pioneer of Civilization During a Prolonged Sojourn Amongst the Wild and Unknown Nosu Tribe of Western China BY S. POLLARD Author of " In Tight Corners in China. •

Demy 8vo. With Many Illustrations & Maps. Price 25s. Net•

SOME EARLY REVIEWS. "Fascinating, raCJ' and humorous."-Ahwdee11 /flllrn4l. "An amazing record of adventure. Mr. Pollard is delightful from eni'J point of view. BJ' the Yaliance of his own heart and faith he wins throuch."-MetMclist Recwtiw. " Mr. Pollard is not merely an interestiag man, but a coarageous one. , , • The first white man. to penetrate into Nosalaad where live the boge)'-mea of the Manchus.••• This l1 a people that has struck terror into the heart• of the neighbouring Chinese hJ' the cruelty and the fierceness of its valour."-SietciJ. Mr. Pollard's book is laid where dwell amid almost anpenetrable laills a race the Chinese have never yet succeeded in subduing.":-We.rtem Mwmw.r Nlflls.

"Ia addition to its engrossing matter, Mr. Pellard's book has th~ attraction of a bright and pleasant 1tyle, which reveall at times a happJ' sense of humour, a characteristic feature not alwaJ'S verJ marked in this branch ofUterature."..,.GUIJ'rMU Hwtdtl. "Nosuland Is a very interesting region. , , • Mr. Pollard husome awkward esperiences. That, of course, makes his narrative all the more lively and interesting."-Li11,.,SHl Post. "Mr. Pollard during his travels held his life in his hand from daJ' to day, and owed his altimate safety to his own concillatorJ prudeace."-M•~~ewter Gu.rtii111,.

"Fall or adYBDtare and •trangeaess, with many escellent photographs."-D111r'~ Mt~il. "Vel'7 readable and Yaluable •••• Admirably printed and cenerously illustrated." Bristol Times anti Mirrflr. SEELEY, SERVICE 1!!1 CO., LTD., 88 GREAT RUSSELL STREET, W.C. UNEXPLORED NEW GUINEA Travel, Adventure, and Observation amongst Head-Hunters and Cannibals of the unexplored interior

BY WILFRID N. BEAVER For many years Resident Magistrate in Weatern New Guinea.

A NEw GutNl'!A LAXATOI. Demy 8vo. With 32 Illustrations & 4 Maps. Price 25s. Nett. SOME EARLY REVIEWS. 11 A piquant and well illustrated book."- Gra?hic. 11 A vivid aud carefully detailed record in which humour and horror keep company."' Du ~t du A dvertiser. "Mr. Beayer has contributed much of value and interest to the gradually accumulating knowled~e of New Guinea, and his premature death will prove a great loss to the science ofanthropology."-A. C. HADDON, M.A., Sc. D., F.R.S. "A most valuable and informing book describinJr a weirdly fascinating country, and Mr. Beaver's account is all the more valuable as it is t only book that deals with the western division as a wbole."-A!JerdttH ] IIunaal. "A true explorer wao achieved much. The book deals with its most formidable division -the vast unknown West .. . illustrated with unique photographs, and told in simple, modest language which can hardly fail to grip the reader."- Country Lift. 11 The Ukairavi people are cannibals who used literally to regard the Morobai as a kind of larder from which supplies of fresh meat could be obtained together with a little excite. ment in the hunting of their victims."- Glasrow H~r•lti. 11 May be taken as the first standard work on the interior of New Guinea .. . contains a wealth of detail a dmirably illustrated. A really valuable and at the same time an intensely interesting book. "-Siteffit ld Telegraph.

SEELEY, SERVICE fS CO., LTD., 38 GREAT RUSSELL STREET, W.C.