WWD MILESTONES: GUESS AT 30 THE AMERICAN DREAM, THE ICONIC ADS, THE RETAIL ROLLOUT AND MORE. SECTION II ONE LESS WORRY India Revokes Ban On Cotton Exports By MAYU SAINI NEW DELHI — Cotton users can breathe a little eas- ier — for now. Almost two months after an unexpected ban on cotton exports, the Indian government has once again TUESDAY, MAY 1, 2012 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY allowed the country’s growers to export their crop, easing fears the ban might destabilize already vola- WWD tile global prices. “After a comprehensive review, it was decided that the suspension of new registrations for cotton exports will be revoked and exports permitted,” the Finance Ministry said Monday. Commerce Minister Anand Sharma said fresh reg- istrations for export will now be allowed and the situ- ation will be reviewed every two weeks. Advantage, India is the world’s second-largest producer of cot- ton after China and the second-largest exporter after the U.S. Globally, cotton prices have stabilized world- wide compared to a year ago, when they had highs of about $2.12 a pound in March, throwing the entire supply chain, from farmers to retailers, into near Ve nu s states of panic. Yarn spinners and fabric mills were The French Open is just weeks away, but Venus stuck with overpriced inventory they couldn’t sell, and denim fi rms were trying to fi gure out how they were Williams is working on more than her game. She was going to pass on the increased costs to stores and con- in New York on Monday to show off her new EleVen by sumers, and started seeking out alternative fabrics. Venus Williams tennis line, which is relaunching for The fi nancial impact is still being seen as companies report their year-end and quarterly results. spring. Some of her original prints are featured on Cotton is selling at 82 cents a pound and crop fore- the merch, such as the “Oh and Oh” motif, a play on casts are strong. The National Cotton Council sees tennis scores, shown here on a polyester and 2012 world mill use of 113.8 million bales, an increase of 3.5 percent from 2011. Global production is pro- spandex jersey tournament dress. For an on-court jected to exceed consumption and allow world ending interview with Williams, see pages 6 and 7. stocks to build to 64.1 million bales. J. Berrye Worsham, chief executive officer of Cotton Incorporated, said, “If the decision by India to resume normal raw cotton trade remains in effect, it will benefi t the entire cotton industry, as artifi cial trade restrictions have been shown to increase price SEE PAGE 8 Yohji’s Movie Move HYERES, France — Yohji Yamamoto is working on his fi rst feature fi lm. The designer spoke of this and other new ven- tures during a discussion on fashion and cinema with French director Christophe Honoré at the Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography. “I’ll do music. I’ll do painting. Then, fi nally, I’ll do fi lm,” Yamamoto told WWD when asked what future projects he was working on. He will don the director’s cap for the movie, which he said is not based on himself. Yamamoto has com- missioned somebody to write the script and expects to have the fi lm wrapped up in two years at the earli- est. “It’s very secret,” he said. During the discussion, the designer, whose cre- ations have featured in a handful of fi lms, including the Takeshi Kitano-helmed “Dolls,” told the audience that he does not like creating clothes for the cinema. “I don’t want to kill the characters of the actors and actresses with my ego,” said Yamamoto, for whom fashion and costume design are distinct professions. “[Costume designers] have to know which fashions and which trends were running at which time, so their knowledge of past clothing is sometimes better than ours.” But he still fi nds the work of certain costume de- signers hard on the eyes. “Have you ever experienced after starting to watch a movie that because of the ugly costumes, you cannot keep on watching? Have you ever experienced that? I have a lot. So in that respect costume [design] is very important,” said Yamamoto. The designer also mentioned director Wim Wenders, whom he sees as a brother, describing the PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE SEE PAGE 12 2 WWD TUESDAY, MAY 1, 2012 WWD.COM International Woolmark Prize Relaunched THE BRIEFING BOX us we looked at the opportunity scene. The firm had a big presence By LISA LOCKWOOD on a number of different levels.” in Paris in the Sixties, he said, IN TODAY’S WWD Not only did the award carry a adding that it brings back good The International Woolmark substantive prize with it, but there memories. Already the company Prize is making a comeback. was an appealing retail compo- recently has been building up its The global fashion compe- nent for the winner. The prize also presence in France as a sponsor tition, which famously was a allows participants to learn more of young talent-related events, he The scene at the springboard for the careers of about the technical aspects and added, such as for the live screen- Harry Winston Yves Saint Laurent and Karl value of wool. Kolb said the con- ing this weekend at the Palais de gala in Shanghai. Lagerfeld in the Fifties, will test was open to CFDA members Tokyo of the fashion show from be reintroduced this year with (members have to be in business the Hyères International Festival the aim of supporting individ- at least three years), and that it of Fashion and Photography. ual excellence in design. The would be great to see the U.S. win- Grumbach said that the de- International Woolmark Prize ner compete internationally. “It tails of Paris’ role in the new awards outstanding and emerg- says a lot for how far American International Woolmark Awards ing designers for their creativity fashion has come,” he said. is still to be defined, however. “I in merino wool. The contest aims The CFDA has received about hope it will be long-term,” he said. WINSTON to develop the next generation 25 initial inquiries. He said that The Australian Wool Industry of fashion designers and to high- those who are applying are not has supported numerous design- HARRY light wool’s eco credentials. only young emerging designers er programs dating back to the OF Stuart McCullough, chief ex- “but a brand who could use a illustrious International Wool ecutive officer of Woolmark, told boost.” He said the prize wasn’t Secretariat design award of the COURTESY WWD that regional design con- for marquee brand names, but Fifties, where Saint Laurent and tests will take place in China, rather small business owners. Lagerfeld were discovered. More The Indian government has once again allowed cotton Australia, India, Italy, the U.K. Simon Ward, chief operating recently, in 2007, the Protégé growers to export their crop, easing fears the ban on exports and France. The winner of each officer of the British Fashion program teamed up some of the might destabilize already volatile global prices. PAGE 1 region will receive a financial Council, said, “When the award world’s most established de- contribution towards their next was first introduced, Yves Saint signers, such as Lagerfeld and Yohji Yamamoto spoke of working on his first feature collection, as well as an oppor- Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld were Donatella Versace, with young film and other new ventures at the Hyères International tunity to participate in the inter- among the first winners, and at protégés of their choice. Festival of Fashion and Photography. PAGE 1 national final. The winner of the the time they were young, emerg- In the U.S., the judging panel international final will receive ing talents. What we like is that consists of the CFDA’s Kolb; Experts on the BRIC countries gave insights into 100,000 Australian dollars, or there is a symmetry and a paral- Linda Fargo, senior vice presi- the reasons so many brands want to make inroads $103,963 dollars at current ex- lel with the past in these latest dent of the fashion office and in those markets. PAGE 4 change, to assist them in under- Woolmark awards. In London in store presentation at Bergdorf ’s; Sally Singer, editor of T, the New The Bon-Ton Stores Inc. has extended the contract of its York Times Style Magazine; vice chairman and president of merchandising, and will begin Narciso Rodriguez, and Malcolm a search for a new chief merchandising officer. PAGE 4 Carfrae, executive vice presi- dent, global communications at Industry veteran Frank Tworecke of The Warnaco Group Calvin Klein Inc. Franca Sozzani, Inc. is planning to retire at the end of the year. PAGE 4 editor in chief of Italian Vogue, and Diane von Furstenberg are The silk kimono that was said to have been worn by confirmed to be on the interna- Lady Duff Gordon when she escaped the Titanic sold tional judging committee. The at auction Thursday for $75,205. PAGE 7 U.S. judging will take place on July 9 in Manhattan. Designers Leighton Meester and Ed Westwick of “Gossip Girl” are required to present sketches caused quite a scene in Shanghai at the opening of of a merino wool capsule collec- Harry Winston’s first freestanding pavilion. PAGE 9 tion comprising six outfits with one full outfit to be produced. Glamour introduced a redesign earlier this year, and the The international judging takes numbers look promising after some difficult times on the place in London in September newsstand.