St Mary’s Parish Church

Comber Walking Guide

visitstrangfordlough.co.uk 1 St Mary’s Parish Church 6 First Comber and Non Subscribing Please note that this map is not 2 The Gillespie Monument Presbyterian Churches to scale and is for reference only Comber 3 Comber & District War Memorial 7 Comber Spinning Mill 4 The Georgian House 8 Andrews Memorial Hall Map 5 Aureen 9 North Down Cricket Club

Comber Greenway

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Castle Lane

Newtownards Road

Car Park & Leisure Centre Bridge S t Mill Street Car Park Cast le St reet 4 2 3 The C B Windmill Hill o e Square m l 1 fa 6 b s e t r R o 5 R a t iv d e K e ne re r Li t il y S li e h n ll ig c a H h yv y rr S e t h r C e e 7 t

C 8 omb er By pass

d oa an R w go Bally Comber River Comber Walking Guide Historical Walking Trail of Comber, Co Down

The main route consists of flat all times. The tour will last one concrete footpaths with pedestrian hour approximately which will crossing opportunities but there is one provide time for you to enjoy the steeper hill to climb going towards the tour. For your convenience, there Non-Subscribing Presbyterian Church. are also public toilets and a wide Comber River Please be aware when crossing the range of cafes and restaurants road and keep an eye out for traffic at in Comber.

We hope you enjoy learning more about the area. Be sure to look out for the other walking guides in the series. These can be downloaded from www.visitstrangfordlough.co.uk along with ideas on what to see and do in the area. We appreciate your comments and suggestions so please contact us via the website.

Just to set the scene, let’s start with a little history about Comber

Just to set the scene, the town This tour begins in the of Comber is located near the heart of Comber at the estuary of the Comber River. The Town Square, where name comes from the Irish, Comar, nestled in the corner meaning meeting place of the rivers. you will see St Mary’s Tradition relates how St Patrick Parish Church, came here but didn’t receive a the first point.

warm welcome. He is said to have

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o possibly near the cricket green. This

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Pages 2 – 3 Let’s begin the walking trail

St Mary’s Parish Church 1 St Mary’s Church, tucked in the corner, to funding. Also you may notice a a little further up from Tesco, stands on the headstone resting against the wall site of a Cistercian Abbey built in 1199. of the church in memory of Isaac It was of similar size and architecture to Meredith of Kilbreght who died in the one in Greyabbey and survived until 1723 at the ripe old age of 127! 1543 when it was closed by order of Henry Some one may have mischievously VIII. The present church dates from 1840. added in the 1. The interior of the church may be viewed in daylight Study the right-hand pillar of the hours and here you will see exhibited entrance gates which bears an interesting nineteen stones from Comber Abbey inscription. The names of Thomas Andrews under the care of the Northern Ireland and James Lemont, eighteenth century Environment Agency. Of major churchwardens, are legibly engraved importance is a monument to three into the upper stone. Pass through the members of the York Fencibles entrance and on your left you will see regiment killed at the Battle of the Andrews Mausoleum. It contains no Saintfield in 1798. They are Captain burials but is built over the tomb of the Chetwynd, Lieutenant Unite and ancestors of Thomas Andrews, Titanic’s Ensign Sparks. The minister of the architect. Read the inscriptions on the church at that time, Reverend Robert walls of the Mausoleum. It is in need of Mortimer, was also killed at the Battle. restoration and the Andrews family have plans to complete this work, subject

The Gillespie Monument 2 The Square has long been a meeting sword, he killed six of them and the point for townspeople, a landmark for other two fled. In 1814, at the beginning visitors, and a haven for pedestrians of the Gurkha War, Gillespie led a seeking refuge from the surrounding column to attack a Nepalese hill fort traffic. Looming high above you, keeping at Kalunga. He was, unfortunately, shot a silent vigil atop an impressive 55ft through the heart and killed by a Gurkha column, is Comber’s hero general, Robert sharpshooter when just thirty yards Rollo Gillespie who fought in the armies from the fort, and the attack collapsed. of King George III against the French and His reputed last words, recorded on the their allies. Gillespie was born in Comber Monument, are “One shot more for the Square in 1766. Instead of following an honour of Down”. Gillespie received his academic career, he enlisted in the army, posthumous knighthood in the 1815 serving in the West Indies, India and New Years Honours list and his memorial Indonesia. Among his battles, listed on was unveiled on 24 June 1845. It is a the sides of the monument, are Tiburon, Masonic monument and some 30,000 Port-au-Prince, Fort Bizotten and Fort people witnessed its unveiling, including de L’Hopital. He was Adjutant-General representatives from a large number of of St. Domingo when eight men broke Masonic lodges. Masonic symbols are into his house. Armed only with his visible on the Monument. Comber Walking Guide

St Mary’s Parish Church

The Gillespie Monument Pages 4 – 5 Comber & District War Memorial 3 Located in the north-west corner of The the Canadian Expeditionary Force, later Square, this memorial commemorates the transferring to the 36th Ulster Division in sacrifice of the local soldiers who gave 1917. While being overrun by a German their lives fighting in the First World War. offensive, De Wind got out under heavy They include three brothers killed side by fire and cleared the enemy from his side at the Battle of the Somme – James, trench. He single-handedly held a post Samuel and John Donaldson, as well as against the Germans for around 7 hours Capt James Bruce and Lt Edmund de Wind at Racecourse Redoubt near Grougies in VC. The garden in the Square was laid out Picardy, continuing to repel attack after in 1952 as a memorial garden to locals attack until he was mortally wounded and who fought and died in the Second World collapsed. There is a plaque to his memory War. Their names can be found on the in St Mary’s Parish Church. After the end of pillars on the west side of the Square. the war a large German gun was presented to Comber in memory of de Wind and it ‘Brave beyond the call of duty’ was placed in the Square. The gun was Edmund de Wind was the only later taken apart to use for scrap metal in Comber man to win the Victoria Cross the Second World War and the inscribed (posthumously) in recognition of his plaques were removed. Today they can be valour and self-sacrifice. He was born in seen inside St Mary’s Church on the west 1883, the son of the chief engineer of the wall of the nave. Belfast & Co. Down Railway, but emigrated to Canada in 1911. There he enlisted in

The Georgian House 4 The Square is largely Georgian in origin and you can observe the houses on the north side with sentry box doorways. An example is seen at the Ulster Bank. The Georgian House, located beside Horner’s Chemist is now a coffee shop and bistro but once was used as a bank. The building frontage dates to the mid 18th century, with rear extensions dating from 1840, most likely by a Dr Jonathan Allen. Horner’s chemist is located on the site of an old tannery which was owned by the Allen family. At a later date, traction engines were built on the site by James George Allen. As you walk along the path from the Square towards the car park you will note traces of the furnaces in the wall. Comber Walking Guide

Aureen – The Hound Chasing the Hare 5 The house called Aureen which is on the Local stories suggest that this hunting opposite side of the Square from St scene was fashioned as a memorial to Mary’s Church was the home of John Master McGra, the famous greyhound Miller (1796-1883), a significant local belonging to Lord Lurgan, which won industrialist who by 1860 had taken over the Waterloo Cup, held in Liverpool. both the Upper and Lower Distilleries. The greyhound died of heart failure in Here he produced the famous Old 1871. John Miller was connected to Comber Whiskey until he sold the the Andrews family. He married Agnes business to Samuel Bruce in 1871. Pirrie, an aunt of William James (Lord) It is believed Miller created the cobbled Pirrie and Eliza Pirrie. In 1870, Thomas footpath outside the house and his name Andrews, father of the shipbuilder, is recorded here in white stone along married Eliza. Their eldest son was with a hound, a hare and the figure John Miller Andrews, Prime Minister of of a man. Northern Ireland 1940-43. First Comber and Non-Subscribing Presbyterian Churches 6 Turn left into High Street, and walk up to Make your way round to the graveyard the top where you will find First Comber at the side of the church. From here on Presbyterian Church. The congregation a clear day you can enjoy a good view dates from 1645 and there has been a of Scrabo Tower. church on this site from around 1670. Major building alterations were made in 1740 and 1887. Just past the church The Graveyard turn right into the signposted laneway, This little cemetery shelters the final Windmill Hill. This leads down to the resting place of Thomas Andrews of Non-Subscribing Presbyterian Church. Ardara and his wife Eliza Pirrie, whom Please note that access to view the he married in 1870. The story of Eliza’s interior is normally restricted to church parents is of interest. James Alexander service times and other special openings, Pirrie married Miss Eliza Montgomery in but should you wish to view the interior 1844 in Quebec, Canada. Eliza’s Uncle, of the church, please contact Rev Gilpin Rev Henry Montgomery, was the leader 028 9187 2265 in advance to arrange of the Non-Subscribing Presbyterian a visit. The Andrews connection is Church movement in Northern Ireland. clearly evident here. The site itself was Unfortunately James Alexander’s life was donated by James Andrews, and inside cut short as he died of cholera and soon he is mentioned on a memorial tablet after his death, Eliza returned to Northern by Rosamund Praeger (1867-1954). Ireland and settled in Conlig with her Praeger wrote and illustrated children’s two children, Eliza and William James books but was best known for sculpture who later became 1st Viscount Pirrie. work. John Miller was also instrumental On 23rd June 1862, William James in establishing the church and had a gained an apprenticeship at Harland & room in the Square fitted out for early Wolff Shipbuilders. At 27 years old he meetings before the church was built was promoted to the level of partner at here. The stained glass windows are of the company. His shipbuilding career particular interest. was marked by an outstanding prowess for salesmanship. The moment he knew That entitled “Peace” is in memory of there was a large ship to be built he James’ grandson, Thomas Andrews Senior seized the opportunity and interviewed (of Ardara), father of a rather special family the ship owner concerned. Harland depicted in the window called “Love”, & Wolff, in their wisdom, left their erected in 1963 by William Andrews employee unfettered and he set out to in memory of his mother Eliza, nee revolutionise the lines and sizes of ocean Pirrie. Eliza and her children are shown ships. Harland declared: “Pirrie won his in Biblical costume outside the family place in the firm by dint of merit alone, home of Ardara. The children include John by character, perseverance and ability”. Miller Andrews, second Prime Minister of Look at the gravestones and note the Northern Ireland; Thomas Andrews Junior, Andrew’s family gravestone, with various shipbuilder, of Titanic fame; Sir James generations listed on it, and also a Andrews, Lord Chief Justice of Northern mention of Thomas Andrews. Retrace Ireland; William Andrews, well known in your steps from the Church, back along cricketing circles and Eliza Montgomery Windmill Hill and take a right down (Nina) Andrews, who married Lieut. Col. towards the Comber Spinning Mill on Lawrence Arthur Hind. There is also an your right hand side, just after the flyover infant in the mother’s arms, representing and the row of mill workers houses. a child who died. Comber Walking Guide

Comber Non-subscribing Presbyterian Church Pages 8 – 9 Comber Spinning Mill 7 The spinning mill was in operation until Sadly, in the same year, John Andrews 1997 when it finally closed. It has since died. His youngest son, Thomas Andrews, been converted into a series of luxury became chairman of the company. Under apartments and access to the interior is his direction the spinning mill continued restricted to home owners, invited guests to flourish and was enlarged in 1907. The and maintenance staff. mill gained accreditation as the preferred supplier of aeroplane linen to the Ministry Despite the renovation work, one can still of Defence during World War 1. In the later sense something of the sheer size of the years, the mill imported flax from Belgium textiles operations which took place here. to produce linen yarn. In 1863, John Andrews senior founded the new firm of John Andrews & Co, Leaving the mill site, take care and cross Flax Spinners. the road and walk to your right. You will see the Andrews Memorial Hall beside the A new spinning mill was built in 1863- Andrews Memorial Primary School. Please 1864 which made linen yarn which would be advised that as the hall is located as then be sent elsewhere for weaving into part of the school, access is restricted linen fabric. The plans for the new mill during the day. If you wish to visit the hall, were prepared by James Combe & Co. Falls please report directly to the school office. Foundry, Belfast who also supplied the If someone is available they will be happy machinery, but the engine and boiler to show you around. Please however were supplied by Victor Coates. In 1864 respect the school and children’s privacy. spinning commenced.

Andrews Memorial Hall 8 In 1914, the “Thomas Andrews Jnr Memorial Primary School have produced Shipbuilder, Memorial Hall” was built some wonderful exhibitions about in his memory. The building now the Titanic. constitutes an integral part of the The hall has been widely used by the Andrews Memorial Primary School, community over the years. During the which proudly bears his name. 1920’s it was used as a picture house The first sod was cut by Thomas Andrews’ showing silent films with accompanying young daughter, Elizabeth Law Barbour piano music. A Saturday matinee was Andrews on the 2nd October 1913. A also held for children with the ticket memorial stone was laid by his mother price of less than 1/2p! Eliza. The hall was opened by Thomas’ Retrace your steps back up the hill and widow Helen Andrews in a small down towards The Square. At the end of ceremony on 29th January 1915. High Street, turn left and walk to Castle The architects were Young and McKenzie Lane. Proceed down Castle Lane past with sculpted work by the artist Sophia Albion Court and the next entrance Rosamond Praeger. The cherubs above on your right is North Down the door were also designed by Praeger Cricket Club. as was the memorial plaque to Thomas Andrews inside. Inspired by their local connection, the pupils of the Andrews Comber Walking Guide

Pages 10 – 11 North Down Cricket Club 9 North Down Cricket Club is situated Castle Lane and Castle Street got their on what was the 18th century bleach names from the “old castle” Mount green belonging to John Andrews. Alexander (perhaps more a large mansion It is also one of the most successful rather than a castle.) Mount Alexander in terms of trophies, with 30 Senior was built by Sir Hugh Montgomery in Cup Final victories and many League 1622 using stone from the old Comber Championships under its belt. Abbey. It was given to his son, Hugh and his new bride, Lady Jean Alexander, In 1907, as part of its Golden Jubilee daughter of the Secretary of State celebrations, the Cricket Club ran a for Scotland. Nothing, bar an exterior marathon. Kennedy McArthur from wall survives of this building. It was Dervock, representing the South African Montgomery along with his compatriot Police, who finished third, went on to win James Hamilton, who led Scottish the marathon gold medal at the 1912 settlers to the area in the early 1600’s. Stockholm Olympic Games. Retracing your steps back along Castle The Cricket Club also has strong Street, on the corner at McWhinney’s connections with the Andrews family, butchers shop you note a plaque many of whom were both keen and very which commemorates the Ards Tourist successful cricketers. Thomas’ brother Trophy (TT) race which ran through the Willie was in particular a very keen town, en route to Dundonald and then cricketer and had a great affiliation to Newtownards from 1928-1936. 1936 was the club. The large stones located just at the last year of the race as unfortunately the entrance to the grounds once sat at a number of spectators were killed. the junction of Castle Lane and Castle At this corner, the cars turned from Street, their original purpose being to The Square and headed for Dundonald. stop cars travelling too close to houses. The track was 13 ½ miles and They were used by North Down as a competitors had to complete 30 laps. meeting point for away matches, and were rescued by the club when it was planned to remove them. Comber Walking Guide

The Thomas Andrews Connection

If you have a specific interest in shipyard’s employees. On June 24, finding out more about Comber’s 1908 he married Helen Reilly Barbour, Titanic roots and the Andrews family with whom he had a daughter, Elizabeth connections, please download the (Elba) in 1910. Comber Titanic Audio tour from In 1907 Thomas began to oversee the www.visitstrangfordlough.co.uk. plans for new super liners, the RMS This tour will tell you more about the Olympic and RMS Titanic, for the White family and their influence on Comber. Star Line. As he had done for the other Thomas Andrews, the son of the Right ships he had overseen, he familiarized Honourable Thomas Andrews Snr and himself with every detail to ensure that Eliza Pirrie, was born at Ardara, Comber they were in optimal working order. on 7th February 1873 and was the On April 2, 1912 Thomas and his younger brother of the Northern Ireland Harland and Wolff group travelled from Prime Minister John Miller Andrews. Belfast to Southampton on the Titanic From 1884 until 1889 he attended the for her maiden voyage to New York. Royal Belfast Academical Institution During the voyage he took notes (RBAI). Then, at the age of sixteen, on various improvements he felt he began a premium apprenticeship were needed. at Harland and Wolff where his uncle William James Pirrie was part owner. On April 14th at 11.40 pm, off the coast of Grand Banks, Newfoundland, At Harland and Wolff, Thomas worked the Titanic struck an iceberg on the his way up the company ladder and ship’s starboard side. Thomas had been in 1901, became manager of the sleeping at the time. Captain Edward J. construction works. That same year, Smith summoned him to help examine he also became a member of the the damage. Thomas determined Institution of Naval Architects. that there was nothing that could be In 1907 he was appointed as Managing done and that inevitably the Titanic Director and Head of the Draughting would sink. department at Harland and Wolff. During his long years of apprenticeship, As the evacuation of the Titanic began, study and work, Thomas became well Thomas searched staterooms telling liked in the company and among the the passengers to put on lifebelts and

Pages 12 – 13 go up on deck. Fully aware of the short of the earliest and most substantial time the ship had left and of the lack memorials for a single victim of the of lifeboat space for all passengers and Titanic disaster was built. crew, he continued to urge reluctant The Thomas Andrews Jr. Memorial Hall people into the lifeboats in the hope of was opened in January 1915. On 14 filling them as fully as possible. April 2012, a memorial to all those who According to John Stewart, one of the worked on and sailed on the Titanic ship’s stewards, Thomas was last seen was unveiled in Comber Square to staring at a painting above the commemorate the 100th anniversary of fireplace in the first-class smoking the sinking. room. The painting depicted the The Titanic connection still remains in entrance to Plymouth Sound which Comber. Clatteringford retail premises Titanic had been expected to visit on on the Ballygowan Road sells a range her return voyage. of table linen using old patterns to the Newspaper accounts of the disaster same specification and design as those justly labelled Thomas Andrews as a on board the Titanic. hero. In his home town of Comber, one

Thomas Andrews Memorial,St Mary’s Parish Church Comber Walking Guide

Some famous people with Comber connections Thomas Andrews Lord Ashdown of Ardara (born 1941) (1843-1916) Leader of the Liberal Democrats President of the Ulster Liberal Unionist Association William McFadden Orr (1866-1934) John Miller Andrews Fellow of the Royal Society, (1871-1956) Mathematician Second Prime Minister of Northern Ireland “Tommy” Casey (1930-2009) Sir Charles Wickham Northern Irish Footballer (1879-1971) First Inspector General of the Johnny Kane Royal Ulster Constabulary (born 1973) Racing driver Ottilie Patterson (1932-2011) Blues singer best known for her performances with the Chris Barber Jazz band in the late 1950’s and early 1960’s

100th Anniversary Thomas Andrews Memorial Pages 14 – 15 For more information contact any of the following Visitor Information Centres: Bangor

Ards Visitor Information Centre 31 Regent Street Newtownards NEWTOWNARDS BT23 4AD Belfast S 028 9182 6846 Comber k [email protected]

Bangor Visitor Information Centre Tower House, 34 Quay Street Bangor Downpatrick B20 5ED S 028 9127 0069 k [email protected]

(Seasonal office Easter – end August) Portaferry Visitor Information Centre The Stables, Castle Street PORTAFERRY BT22 1NZ S 028 4272 9882

(Seasonal office Easter – end August) @VisitStrangford Cockle Row Visitor Information Centre The Harbour, Main Street Groomsport /VisitStrangfordLough BT19 6JR S 028 9127 2269

Please Note: This document may be available in alternative formats on request. 13317

Ards and North Down Borough Council presents the information as a public service, and while every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy, the Council cannot accept responsibility and assumes no liability for any action undertaken by any person using the information contained herein. The content of this guide is copyright of Ards and North Down Borough Council and should not be reused without permission.