N Is for Nepal

[email protected] FRIDAY, July 16, 2010 FRIDAY, July 16, 2010 AROUND THE WORLD IN 26 RECIPES 28 29 [email protected] (Buffalo is commonly used in Nepal, which interestingly does not carry ORLD W IN BEEF CHOYLA the same taboo as beef in this predominantly Hindu country) DAAL BHAT E 2 H 6 T (Black Lentil Soup and Boiled Rice) R Ingredients Preparation D E l l N C 500g beef pieces, diced into squares, or Under a hot grill, or barbeque, grill the U I cut into long, thin strips beef pieces until tender and set aside. P O l E 7-8 small cherry tomatoes Grill the tomatoes for 3-4 minutes, [email protected] R S l 1 tsp ginger garlic paste, or 1 tbsp remove skins and set aside. A chopped ginger and 6 garlic cloves l Sauté the tomatoes with the spring l 2 tsps red chilli powder onion, fenugreek and other spices in a l 1 stick spring onions chopped little oil for 2-3 minutes, then season and l 75g chopped, fresh coriander add the lemon juice. By l l Mike Harrison ½ tsp turmeric powder Reduce, add the chopped coriander and l ½ tsp fenugreek seeds set aside. Combine the tomato mixture l 2 tsps lemon juice and the beef pieces, leave to cool, then [email protected] l 2 tbs oil add a little salad oil, stir and serve warm, FACT FILE l Salt to taste with naan bread and a little more fresh Ingredients coriander sprinkled over for decoration l 3 cups of water Official name: The Federal Democratic l 1 cup of urad daal - black lentils, Republic of Nepal soaked overnight Formerly a kingdom, Nepal is, as of earlier l 1 pinch of jimbu (Himalayan dried this year, the world’s most recent nation to Chef Yamlal Lamichhane herb)* become a republic. l 1 tbsp ghee of Al Qurum Resort in Muscat l Salt to taste Popuation: Approximately 29,000,000 [email protected] HE Himalayan republic (kingdom until earlier this Yamlal has worked at my favourite beach spot, Tyear) of Nepal, lies as a sort of buffer between Al Qurum Resort, for 4 years, but has been in Mus- Optional extra ingredients, for added Area: 147,181 sq. km. India and China, and the food has been conse- cat for a good while longer than that. flavour quently been influenced by both countries, while He manages to get back to his home country l 2 finely chopped dried red chillies retaining many distinctions of its own. every January, where, no doubt, he savours the l ¼ tsp (pinch) asafetida Capital: Kathmandu It is possibly for this reason that Nepali chefs Himalayan flavours of his favourite daal bhat – black l 1 tbsp fresh ginger paste can easily turn their hands to both cuisines. I have daal with rice. His favourite unobtainable-in-Muscat *It is unlikely that you will find this Other major cities: Pokhara met a number of Nepali chefs in the region who ingredient is jimmu, a mountain herb used in a lot of outside of Nepal. As a substitute, the specialize in Indian and Chinese food, and Chef Nepalese cooking, and to which one of the distinc- closest thing to try would be garlic Major sites: The world’s highest Yamlal is one of them. tive flavours of the region’s food can be attributed. bulb roots. mountain, Everest, is situated in Nepal Preparation Getting there: There are no direct flights destrians, occasionally pausing to accept a banana from a l Wash lentils thoroughly to remove street vendor. The atmosphere is generally one of friendly to Nepal from Muscat, although, with a any imperfections. Bring water to boil mayhem. Though a visit downtown might not be for the in a saucepan and place lentils inside, much larger Nepali expatriate population fainthearted due to the seething mass of humanity stream- in the UAE, there are several flights from together with the spices. ing along the streets at dusk, the overall feeling is one of l Reduce heat and simmer, covered, overwhelming friendliness and kindness towards strangers. Abu Dhabi and Dubai, as well as until tender - about 30 mins. The centuries-old buildings themselves form an essential direct Sharjah-Kathmandu flights with l part of the fabric, a vibrant living museum, where beggars, They should break easily when budget airline, Air Arabia. Flying time: pressed between thumbs and index 3+ hours labourers, lovers, foreigners and sadhus all relax on the steps of the buildings to watch the people go by. fingers. Remove from the heat. Heat The downtown commercial area also proves to be a lot ghee in a pan. of fun. With an eye on the spoils of tourism, the area caters l Add jimbu to it, heat until light brown to all tastes. Corner cake shops sell rum babas and kit-kats; and then pour it over the cooked here’s a lot more to Nepal than and distinct, it is nevertheless influenced by its much of the historic city can be visited on foot. the Irish pub offers burgers and live rock music, or you can lentil. Mount Everest! For the visitor to the geographical position in the middle of the Hima- The capital consists of a network of ancient stop at the street stalls for bowls of daal or a nice snack of l Serve with hot boiled rice. country’s capital of Kathmandu, and its laya mountain range. It also lies at the crossroads cities which all converge in the valley named mo-mo. other historic cities, the experience is between northern India and Tibet. A predomi- after it, with each site a short taxi hop or long Don’t forget, this is the end of the road of the former Tnothing short of a sensory feast at all levels. On nantly Hindu country (around 80% or more of rickshaw ride from the other. Unless you care- hippy trail, and there are still a substantial number of castes and ethnic groups. They painstakingly explained every street corner, you are assailed by sights, the population are Hindu), a large majority of fully plan your visit ahead, the range of places westerners making their way to try and ‘find’ themselves, the central importance of festivals in Nepali culture and sounds and aromas that can’t fail to make the Nepalis are vegetarian and subsist mainly on the to choose to visit is bewildering. While many or savour the intensive flavours of all sorts that the city has the specialities of their own Newari cuisine. They showed journey to the country utterly memorable. national dish – daal baht – of black lentils and visitors head straight out to the mountains for to offer. And it has them in abundance, of that you can be me the best way to the spice markets – an essential part of As to Nepali food, though it is quite unique boiled rice. The country’s food, for the most part, trekking, others languish in the capital area for sure. my itinerary in any major city – thus allowing me to stock is characterised by gentle and delicate flavours, lengthy periods, since there is so much to do and Nepal likes to cater to all visitor’s needs. You can stay up on black cardamom pods, asafetida, lovage seeds, and using interesting herbs and spices unique to the see. for a small handful of dollars in dorm-style accommoda- jimbu, a dried, aromatic grass from the Himalayan regions region. It is not generally spicy. One of the most historic areas is Pathan, tion, popping out for cheap bowls of noodles, rice or lentils that is sold in strands and used to flavour the black daal The large Tibetan population from the north where the exquisite carvings and friezes of the at less than half a rial from the street-vendors, or you can which forms the main diet of most Nepalis. has brought its own culinary influences, one of buildings on the famous Durbar Square date opt for more creature comforts, and sit in opulence while At the upper end, Nepali dishes can offer up a fine which is my favourite dish of the region. Mo-mo back to the 17th century. You can drop by the elegantly-dressed waiters serve you western-style food, or range of subtleties and tastes. I savoured stuffed buffalo is a tasty, steamed or fried dumpling, served home of the Living Goddess, pose for photo- even Nepali food given a gentler, western twist to ensure lungs, pretty deep-fried swirls of dumplings with different with various stuffings, buffalo being one of the graphs with sadhus, buy pashminas and hats that your stomach copes with the eclectic range of ingredi- fillings, and a whole range of rice and daal dishes deli- common ones! made from yak wool, haggle over miniature ents you have suddenly subjected it to. cately infused with mountain herbs, the most common one Kathmandu is where most visitors arrive: bronze statues, wooden puppets and incense, Yet while I love the street ambiance and the frenzied being jimmu, a mild herb with a gently aromatic flavour. At It’s a great starting point for any visitor, a large purchase copper Buddhist ‘singing’ bowls or chaos – and Kathmandu is one of the most lively and excit- the cheaper end, there are amazing hole-in-the-wall restau- amount of whom visit the country for the trek- browse for maps and cookery books in the ing places that I have visited – this jaded, ageing tourist rants serving eggy, griddled pancakes and other delicacies.

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