WINTER 2019

SEATTLE CONFERENCE ISSUE On the cover: Seattle Chapter. Front row, L to R: Jerilyn Brusseau, Cathy Conner, Catherine Hazen, Karen Binder, Sheri Wetherell, Jamie Peha, Patricia Gelles, Beverly Gruber, Lisa Nakamura, Pam Montgomery. Back row, L to R: Katherine Kehrli, Marcia Sisley- Berger, JoAnne Naganawa, Alison Leber (behind), Jane Morimoto, Kate Ruffing, Nancy Leson, Bridget Charters, Cynthia Nims, Cheri Bloom, Pascha Scott, Linda Augustine, Martha Marino, Anne Nisbet, Alice Gautsch Foreman, Naomi Kakiuchi. Right: Photo of Marion Nestle and Hayley Matson-Mathes: Lisa Stewart. Other photos: Susan Slack.

FROM THE EDITOR Seattle Conference 2018— WINTER 2 O19 An Encore Performance “The creation of a thousand forests is in one acorn.” Ralph Waldo Emerson Bravo, Seattle Chapter, for a Conference well done! The power IN THIS ISSUE of the encore is considerable. Flashback to 2003: Seattle’s first Conference “Gathering on the Rim,” was, by all reports, a terrific FEATURES success. When Abigail Kirsch (NY) and Rosemary Kowalski (San Antonio) tied for the Grande Dame Award, Renie Steves (Dallas) Pre-Conference Tours and Pat Mozersky (San Antonio) issued a bon mot, “doubling your 6 pleasure and doubling your fun!” Over 1,000 Dames belonged to 23 chapters, which included Adelaide, Australia, and an association 11 Leadership Meeting with Le Donne Del Vino—women in Italian wine. (There are cur- rently 42 chapters and a membership of over 2,200 strong.) 12 Salishly Delicious In an encore performance, Seattle brilliantly hosted its second inter- national Conference, “Grey Skies, Bright Ideas,” October 11-14, 2018. M.F.K. Fisher Awards Over 300 registrants attended educational sessions, tours, and saw 13 product displays from LDEI partners who lead in food and beverage industries. We celebrated women who merited awards, and explored Se- 14 Concurrent Sessions attle’s rich, multicultural history that benefits local culture and cuisine. During post-conference tours, Dames learned about Eastern 18 Partners' Showcase Luncheon Washington wines and the character and striking diversity of Vancouver’s market scene. Judy Rusignuolo (D.C.) says, “Our BC 22 Global Culinary Initiative Breakfast Dames could not have been more welcoming and generous, sharing their professionalism and diverse culinary expertise with enthu- Grande Dame Award siastic Dames from many chapters. The action-packed, two-day 23 journey was thoroughly delightful!" The Conference garnered many accolades. First-time attendee, Edin- 25 Legacy Awards Luncheon burgh-based Fiona Richmond (London) comments, “Most striking was the warmth, friendliness, and openness of fellow members and 26 Under the Big Top a strong sense of everyone working together for the common good. The…mutual respect, willingness to share ideas and support the Post-Conference Tours reverence for luminaries such as Carol Brock;…together, we must 27 keep moving forward, adapting, and staying relevant to the world we live in today.” First-timer Jen Kulick, Charleston’s president, DEPARTMENTS adds, “I attended a seminar on communication and management skills that was really eye opening, and I came away with a new skill.” Chapter Programs Seattle President Lisa Nakamura shares, “We feasted on oysters, were 28 tickled pink by rosé, found our common visions through appreciative inquiry, and affirmed what we know—that food changes lives.” 35 Green Tables Women are hardwired to connect and according to research, they are “collegiate, collaborative, and inclusive.” If you haven’t attended 36 Member Milestones Conference, this issue will inspire you to understand the possibili- ties when Dames connect.” Lisa sums it up best, “Grey skies, bright 39 Submission Guidelines idea + the power of Dames truly equals unstoppable.” —Susan Fuller Slack, Editor, Winter Quarterly 2 Les Dames d’Escoffier International PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE 2019 LDEI BOARD OF DIRECTORS The mission of the LDEI Board is to foster the growth and success of The Transformative Power of Connection the organization by supporting the development of new and existing chapters Ann Stratte (Washington, D.C.) and by implementing program initiatives. It provides leadership, guidance, “It was so wonderful to meet fellow Dames! As a education, connectivity, and effective caterer working night and day for so many years, I communication among LDEI members. never had a moment to attend the Conferences but President I plan to in the future. I am thrilled that a Chapter ANN STRATTE has opened in Paris, too! I am there often so will Lobster and Lox LLC 100 Severn Avenue, #506 reach out to their members on my next trip!” Annapolis, MD 21403-2622 —Dame Ann Kirsebom, British Columbia, (410) 903-2682 | [email protected] first-time LDEI Conference attendee First Vice President BEV SHAFFER I continue to bask in the afterglow of the Owner/COOK.WRITE.TRAVEL.REPEAT. Seattle Conference where a year of achievements Culinary Consultant | Recipe Development and awards were celebrated at LDEI’s Annual R&D | Food & Travel Writer 3433 Blake Road Meeting. We were treated to an extraordinary Seville, OH 44273 experience making both lifelong friends and (330) 441-2706 cherished memories. Thank you to Co-Chairs [email protected] Naomi Kakiuchi, Catherine Hazen, Cynthia Second Vice President Nims, and all the Seattle Dames for organizing DANIELLE WECKSLER Plateful Solutions this amazing event. The superb content provided 326 Bayview Drive from the Tours and Sessions links us to a myriad Mt. Pleasant, SC 29464 of new ideas to ponder. (843) 647-9902 | [email protected] My first day as president Third Vice President BETH VLASICH PAV of LDEI, I connected with long-term, positive Owner/Chef, old and new friends on the impact on LDEI. Cooking by Design, LLC “Dames Do Canada” post- The opportunity 5606 Stage Stop Circle Austin, TX 78738 conference tour, hosted by the to spend time with (512) 431-8751 | [email protected] British Columbia Chapter. Dames from all Secretary Wining, dining, touring, and over the world is JENNIFER GOLDMAN sharing experiences made this truly the highlight Bal-Core Business Advisors north-of-the-border experience 6732 Vanderbilt St of my year, and Houston, TX 77005 very special, and we all left I can’t wait to (843) 224-0198 | [email protected] wanting more. celebrate again in Treasurer I look forward to joining more Nashville: Rhythm SHARON OLSON of you in a few weeks during & Roots, October Culinary Visions Panel 445 W. Erie Street, Suite 107 the third south-of-the-border 24-27. Come with Chicago, IL 60654 adventure, Flavors of Mexico, us next year and (312) 280-4573 | [email protected] in Oaxaca, March 6-9. The see for yourself! Chapter Board Liaisons incredible Mexico Chapter will I am so DREW FAULKNER Culinary Instructor make you feel more connected grateful to hold 7407 Honeywell Lane than ever to this beautiful area of the esteemed Bethesda, MD 20814-1019 their country. I encourage you to position of LDEI president and look forward Home/Office 301-986-8540 join in the adventure of a lifetime. to meeting with as many of you as possible [email protected] The growth of our international organization throughout the year. Thank you all for this STEPHANIE JAEGER Pear Tree Restaurant to 42 chapters and over 2,300 members gives tremendous opportunity. 1504 Appin Road us exponential opportunities to unite and make A final “thank you” to two women who were North Vancouver, BC V7J 2T5 an impact. It is incumbent on your LDEI instrumental in moving our organization forward (604) 299-2772 | [email protected] Board to continue to improve the means for our last year. Immediate Past President Hayley GINA BURCHENAL membership to communicate and collaborate Gina's Kitchen Matson-Mathes, thank you for your grace, 4036 Church Creek Point with one another. Stay tuned as we work to vision, and leadership. And to our founder Carol Largo, FL 33774 provide a platform intended to encourage Brock—you continue to be a role model and an (512) 658-0338 | [email protected] connection and interaction among members. inspiration to all of us every single day. Immediate Past President Much appreciation to our Quarterly editors, HAYLEY MATSON-MATHES Salut, Owner/Culinary Consultant Susan Slack and CiCi Williamson, and the Ann 2333 Kapiolani Boulevard #3516 many Dame contributors and photographers Honolulu, HI 96826 who made the winter issue so special. The stories (808) 941-9088 | [email protected] and photographs in these pages illustrate the Executive Director GREG JEWELL many layers of connection made at Conference. President, AEC Management Resources We are a diverse group of women who come Dames Ann Stratte and Carol Brock with P.O. Box 4961 together to build meaningful relationships that Carla Hall during the James Beard House dinner, Louisville, KY 40204 add value to these connections, and they create a “Carla Hall’s Soul Food.” (502) 456-1851 x1 | [email protected]

WINTER QUARTERLY 2019 3 Thank You What an enormous honor it was for our Seattle Chapter to host this year’s LDEI Conference. We can’t thank enough all those who made the trip to be part of those few days. You all contributed to a dynamic energy of learning and engagement that was so rewarding to experience as your hosts. We hope there are some bright ideas lingering from your time in Seattle—a spark resulting from compelling workshops, inspiring speakers, and the powerhouse Dames you encountered while here. That and delicious memories of your time exploring the city. There is no replacement for the value of time spent in each other’s company. We look very forward to our next grand gathering in Nashville! Catherine Hazen, Naomi Kakiuchi, and Cynthia Nims Seattle Conference Co-Chairs

Front Row, L-R: Seattle Conference Co-Chairs Catherine Hazen, Naomi Kakiuchi, and Cynthia Nims. Back Row L-R: 2019 Seattle President Lisa Nakamura, 2018 Past President Alison Leber, and Past President Jamie Peha.

SEATTLE CONFERENCE COVERAGE

“I would highly recommend attending Conference! The educational experience was priceless, and it was a fantastic way to brainstorm with other members and chapters.” Photo: Lisa Stewart. Lisa Stewart (Dallas)

2019 LDEI BOARD OF DIRECTORS L-R: Chapter Board Liaison (CBL) Bev Gruber (Seattle); Third VP Beth Pav, in back (Austin); Second VP Danielle Wecksler (Charleston); Secretary Jennifer Goldman (Charleston); Past President Hayley Mathes-Matson (Hawaii); President Ann Stratte (Washington, D.C.); Vice President Bev Shaffer (Cleveland); CBL Drew Faulkner (Washington, D.C.); Treasurer Sharon Olson, in back (Cleveland). Not pictured: CBL Stephanie Jaeger (British Columbia). Photo: Mike Mathes.

4 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Photo: CiCi Williamson.

Alice G. Foreman Offers Incentive to Brock Circle Members

cle By Hayley Matson-Mathes (Hawaii) City Cirque, Seattle. She explained, “Our goal is 100 mem- Cir ck o bers, so we could use your support with additional referrals! r LDEI Immediate Past President B We have $323,508 in our Brock Circle investment account

L I am pleased to share some exciting news regarding the Brock and a total of $560,000 pledged towards our million-dollar D EI Circle. Dame Alice G. Foreman, co-founder of the Seattle goal.” The Brock Circle is 56 members strong, with seven Chapter, created a very generous special incentive program members joining in 2017-2018: Alison Awerbach, Kathy designed to encourage completion of Brock Circle donations. Gold, Barbara Hanley, Tina Krinsky, Sharon Olson, Mar- Alice shared her vision for the accelerated payment plan and garet Happel Perry, and Margaret Norfleet Neff. explained its importance. “The incentive plan will enhance Stacy shared 2018 examples of the Brock Circle’s Impact: LDEI’s financial stability while giving individuals and chap- • Webinar featuring Dr. Connie Mariano, “The White House ters a handsome dividend. We will build capital more quickly, Doctor,” (available on the LDEI website) offering leader- enriching the work and outreach of the Brock Circle for ship and life lessons for highly accomplished professionals the benefit of all members.” The incentive offer is limited to $5,000 and ends June 30th. • Membership brochure updated electronically and available See the formula below to calculate your individual or chapter for download (twenty-five copies mailed to each chapter) reward for completion of your Brock Circle commitment: • LDEI Conference Session workshop “Up Your Communi- cation Game” focusing on the compassionate and strategic • Payment in full of $5,000 (or more) gives communication skills needed to navigate difficult situations the donor a $500 credit toward a Nashville • Marketing for the Trends Report (250 thumb drives, Conference registration uploaded with trends data, were distributed to conference attendees) • Payment in full of $4,000 gives the donor a $400 credit toward a Nashville Conference registration The purpose of the Brock Circle is to ensure the fiscal health • Payment in full of $3,000 gives the donor a $300 of the organization by providing a resource—in alignment credit toward a Nashville Conference registration with the LDEI mission—to support strategic needs and special conference enhancements. Our goal is 100 members pledging • Payment in full of $2,000 gives the donor a $200 $10,000 (payments can be prorated over ten years or made in credit toward a Nashville Conference registration full). Consider the stock donation program which allows for donation of stocks, bonds, or mutual funds directly to LDEI. Learn how you can join the Brock Circle, hayleymm@ Past President Stacy Zeigler welcomed Brock Circle mem- hawaii.rr.com bers to a VIP LDEI reception on October 13 at the Emerald

HOSPITALITY ROOM

WINTER QUARTERLY 2019 5 PRE-CONFERENCE TOURS

[ Tour 1 ] Rustic & Elegant— A Countryside Culinary Adventure

By Barb Pires (Atlanta) been producing the power neces- sary to run a hydroelectric plant One of the big decisions I make since 1899. We were in luck and every year about Conference able to see the beauty of what is choosing a Pre-Conference nature has created—one never tour. It’s always a knows if the mist and fog will tough decision, obscure the view. and no mat- After a short ride we arrived at ter which one I Carnation Farms, a nonprofit, have chosen in 818-acre organic property that years past, they grows vegetables, fruits and all have been flowers, and raises poultry for worthwhile. This year’s Rustic local markets and stands. The & Elegant tour was just amaz- farm has come a long way from ing—beginning at Snoqualmie the days of producing evapo- Falls, then to Carnation Farms rated milk and Friskies. The for a visit and lunch, and on to summer camps and field trips, the final stop at Chateau Ste. designed by dietitian Martha Michelle Wine Estates. The Marino, show kids what it takes perfect weather, breathtaking Carnation Farms scenic vista. L-R: Resident chef Caprial Pence and Dame to raise, prepare, and cook what Martha Marino. Chateau Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. views, commentary presented they grow. They can also attend by the Seattle Dames during the sessions on public speaking bus ride, delicious lunch with the farm tour, we headed up 50th anniversary. After an edu- and working in a food bank. wines, and “sensory sojourn” the mountain for a delicious cational and tasting tour of the The farm’s adult internships wine-tasting class could not have farm-to table-lunch prepared winery, we experienced a “sensory give farmers-in-training the been better. by Caprial Pence—James Beard sojourn.” We were asked to blind knowledge to run organic farms, It was a chilly 40 degrees when award winner for Best Chef in taste seven different wines as well to raise chickens humanely, we arrived at the majestic Sno- the Northwest. as smell seven different scents and market what is produced. qualmie Falls; you could feel the Next and final stop was at Cha- to determine what we perceived Unfortunately, we didn’t see energy that this mini Niagara teau Ste. Michelle. The Chateau the wine to be—from Sauvignon the gang of approximately 75 generated. The Falls were created has recently undergone a $7 mil- Blanc to a mystery wine that was elk that usually visit daily. After during the Ice Age and have lion renovation celebrating their Erath Merlot. It was a good day!

[ Tour 2 ] Coffee, The Hot Stove Society and Chocolate By Belinda Smith- coffee beans being roasted on site, Sullivan (Charleston) in towering, copper roasting silos attended by master roasters. No Our tour defi- wonder this is the number three nitely started out tourist destination in Seattle. on the right note. The group had the opportunity The Starbucks Re- to spend some time with the serve Roasteries, site manager learning about the in the Capital Hill art and craft of blending and area of Seattle, roasting coffee. We did a taste is truly Starbucks on steroids!! Seattle’s Starbucks Reserve Roasteries. Artisan bread at Starbucks. Photos: comparison of three varietals It’s not just a place to sip a latte Belinda Smith-Sullivan of coffees including Honduras, anymore; you can get whatever Jamaican Blue Mountain, and your heart desires from coffee to sandwiches, artisan breads, and bar! And in the middle of it all, it continued ON NEXT PAGE an awesome collection of pastries, more. It even boasts a full-size was very exciting to observe the

6 Les Dames d’Escoffier International [ Tour 3 ] To Market, To Market Dames get an inside look at the iconic Pike Place Market

By Elaine T. Cicora from an assortment of vendors. (Cleveland) Our tour stepped off with hot coffee and buttery biscuits from a relative newcomer to Which of the following is true? the market, Honest Biscuits; moved on to 1. Founded in 1907, Se- Chukar Cherries, where owner Pam Mont- attle’s Pike Place Market gomery has been selling her products since is the oldest continu- 1992; swung by Daily Dozen Doughnut ously operating market Company to feast on mini bacon-maple in America. doughnuts; made a layover at the circa-1930 2. Pike Place Market is the Pike Place Fish Co., for their world-famous, only historic district in sustainably sourced, alderwood-smoked salm- the nation to have been established by on and a signature fish-tossing performance public vote. from the mongers; and concluded at family- 3. Beyond being home to seafood, pro- owned Indi Chocolate, an artisanal bean-to- duce, and fabulous flower bouquets, bar manufacturer specializing in single-origin, the market was chartered by the City of dark chocolates. Seattle to provide an array of social ser- Diving in and out of the warren of multi- vice programs that support more than story buildings, narrow alleys, and brick- 11,000 vulnerable children, families, paved plazas that make up the vast 9-acre and seniors every year. market, we passed by dozens of farmers’ stalls, 4. All of the above. scores of crafters, more than 200 unique owner-operated shops, and over 80 restau- If you answered No. 4, “All of the above,” rants. Good thing the market is open 363 give yourself a Star(bucks). Those are just days per year: It could easily take that long to a few of the facts learned by the Dames see everything! and their guests who took part in a pre- The morning concluded with a brief bus ride conference, early-access, VIP tour of Seattle’s to Orfeo restaurant for a taste of Northwest historic market on Oct. 11, 2018. bounty from Chef Kevin Davis, plus a Q&A Clocking in at nearly three-hours, our with Seattle Dames whose decades-long ties Dames and a guest at Indi Chocolate in Pike curated stroll was provided by Savor Seattle to the market run deep; among them was Place Market, L-R: Sophia Fischer (Savor Seattle Food Tours. For ease of communications, our Kristi Drake (Le Panier); Pam Montgomery Tours), Ashley Freeman, Sylvia Ganier, Marilyn Freundlich, Elaine Cicora, Brad Albing (guest), little mob of 29 was divided into two smaller (Chukar Cherries); and Angela Shen (Savor groups, each with their own knowledgeable Patty Erd, Julie Chernoff, Darla Crask, Holly Seattle Food Tours). Chute. Tour guide Patrick Allcorn (in baseball guide. Patrick Allcorn was our group’s leader, Thanks to them—and to all the Seattle cap) provided plenty of information. Dame Pam and he graciously filled our heads with facts Dames—for sharing the flavors of their won- Montgomery of Chuckar Cherries dropped by to while filling our tummies with delicious treats derful city! greet us. Photos: Elaine Cicora

TOUR 2 continued Starbuck Reserve Pantheon school operated by restaurateur • Spice egg and herb salad to the production lab where we Blend. We discussed the differ- Tom Douglas, who owns 13 fine • Coconut cream pie bites observed the step-by-step process ence between coffee makers and dining restaurants in downtown A selection of fine wines was that transforms the cacao pods how each effects the flavor of Seattle. Our host was Bridget paired perfectly to this meal fit from “bean to bar.” coffee. Our three takeaways: Charters, chef instructor, for Dames! Theo Chocolate is very proud • Before drinking coffee in the culinary producer of wine, food We ended our tour at Theo of its sourcing practices, starting morning, drink water with festivals, and Emmy award- Chocolate, the first organic pro- with building long-term “Fair lemon to wake up the taste buds. winning cooking shows. Chef ducers of chocolate in the U.S. Trade” relationships with cacao • Coffee should be drunk luke- Charters and assistants prepared Our tour of the Theo factory farmers around the world. This warm—not hot—to release the for us a very delicious lunch feast and retail store started with an practice ensures that farmers have full flavor. consisting of: introduction to chocolate and a positive working conditions and • Serve chocolate with coffee to • House pita served alongside tasting to experience the differ- competitive prices for their crop, eliminate sugar or cream. Greek yogurt with cucumber ence between 45 percent, 70 which allows them to grow their The next stop on our tour was and herbs percent, and 85 percent chocolate businesses and send their children continued ON NEXT PAGE the Hot Stove Society, a cooking • Mint and Onion Boreks composition. We then moved to school.

WINTER QUARTERLY 2019 7 PRE-CONFERENCE TOURS

[ Tour 5 ] [ Tour 4 ] Hip & Historic Georgetown Traditions & By Marsha Palanci (New York) Fran’s is a family affair with Andrina run- ning the business side, her brother and Tastes of Seattle’s Dave, our “Elvis” bus driver, described CIA-graduate, Dylon, developing recipes and Georgetown as Seattle’s second oldest managing production, and their mother, the International District neighborhood dating from namesake and soul of the chocolate kingdom. 1851. Now, its industrial By Susan F. Slack Late, we dashed to our next appointment brick warehouses make up a at nearby Charles Smith Wines Jet City (Charleston) lively community of wineries, winery. Overlooking Boeing’s airstrip, the micro-breweries, distilleries, Seattle’s International former Dr. Pepper bottling plant and later coffee shops, and affordable District was the destination pornography film studio is now one of housing for local hipsters. It for 17 Dames and guests led Seattle’s most-talked-about wineries. is also the home of Fran’s “chocolate factory.” by expert tour guide Naomi Winemaker Brennan Leighton described With Dame Fran Bigelow away in Japan Kakiuchi. The richly diverse neighborhood owner Charles Smith’s non-conventional opening a new store, her daughter and consists of Chinatown, Japantown (Nihon- foray into the wine business following a CEO, Andrina, hosted us at their 32,000 machi), and a Filipino community. There is career as a rock band promoter in Denmark. square foot facility. We put on hair nets also a significant Vietnamese (Little Saigon) Considered a newcomer and maverick and white lab coats to enter Fran’s world and Korean presence. Their histories and in the wine business, Charles’ “wines of of smooth, creamy, sweet chocolate. One ethnic traditions have blended seamlessly substance”—many with astonishingly high could not help but recall images of Lucy and into one multiethnic community—unique ratings—are produced from grapes grown Ethel at the conveyor belt frantically stuff- in the continental United States. A sizable in Eastern Washington using sustainable or ing candy in their mouths to keep up with portion of the area is listed on the National biodynamic practices. production. Not the case at Fran’s where Register of Historic Places. Even after selling his namesake wine brand precision, control, and quality dominate. To learn about Seattle’s earliest immigrants, to giant Constellation for $12 million in Our group salivated watching the hand Naomi guided us to the Wing Luke Museum 2016, Charles Smith remains the third production of Fran’s sinfully delicious fleur of the Asian Pacific American Experience— largest producer in Washington. Today he de sel chocolate caramels. President Obama the first Smithsonian affiliate in the Pacific makes 450,000 cases under his remaining fell in love with them too and commis- Northwest. The three-story museum is housed brands, which include K Vintners, SIXTO, sioned her to create a special gift box with in the East Kong Yick Building, built in 1910. Vino, Casa Smith, B. Leighton, and Charles his Presidential seal as VIP inaugural gifts. It honors Wing Luke, Seattle’s first Asian & Charles. Catapulted into the spotlight from that, American elected to public office. Through Priced between $12-$140 a bottle, the Fran’s is now considered one of the country’s exhibits, archival photographs, and presenta- same meticulous wine-making process is preeminent chocolatiers. tions, the immigrant stories came to life. used for the entire range. Charles believes Andrina taught us how to taste chocolate On the top floors, once the Freeman Hotel, in “bringing the vineyard to the bottle” like a pro. Between bites, we looked for an we saw rooms with artifacts once rented to by keeping each batch of fermented juice exterior shine, then a cracking sound when itinerant workers for 25 cents. A large room in separate barrels, manipulating the we bite into the chocolate—both indicators with a pressed tin ceiling was used by the wines minimally, and never blending. The of the proper chocolate tempering. Then, Gee How Oak Tin Family Association for winemakers’ magic touch was evident as we a rich coating on the tongue, and finally, a meals, meetings, and mah jong. Dr. Sun tasted through different wines including his lingering taste sensation on the palate. Fran’s Yat-Sen—first president of the Republic most expensive, Royal City Syrah, before chocolates met all these criteria of excellence. of China—spoke here in the 1920s. From heading to lunch. the windows, we saw brick buildings with elaborately decorated balconies like those in Southern China, often signifying clan organizations and social clubs. Leaving the museum, we strolled to Tsue Chong Company, Inc., where Rose Brand Chinese noodles and fortune cookies are produced for restaurant and grocery distri- bution in the Pacific Northwest. We were greeted by 4th generation family member Brian Louie, a cousin of President Tim Louie. The business was started in 1917 by their immigrant great grandfather, Gar Hip Louie, from South China. We watched as dough was run through sheeters then cut into various shapes for fresh noodles

Elvis, the taxi driver. Dames in hairnets—on the chocolate trail. continued ON NEXT PAGE

8 Les Dames d’Escoffier International TOUR 5 continued crisp, and delicious. We returned to the Wing Luke Museum and dumpling wrappers. On the third floor, and the Tateuchi Story Theater where Denise noodles were air dried, deep fried, and Moriguchi, the 4th generation CEO of steamed cooked. Rice noodles, a top seller, Uwajimaya, shared the history of the Asian Tour 5 are made daily. grocery retailer—the largest and oldest in the [ ] Tsu Chong’s fortunes rest on cookies as well Pacific Northwest. We tasted vegetarian Bánh as noodles! Brian and Tim’s grandmother Bôt Loc, chewy tapioca dumplings steamed Eng Shee Louie began making fortune cook- in banana leaves—a specialty of Hue in ies in the 50s. It is likely they were first pro- Central Vietnam. duced by Japanese Americans in California. For lunch, we divided into groups to visit Grandmother Louie’s batter included two neighborhood businesses owned by pastry flour, vanilla, and coconut oil and women: Ping's Dumpling House and Szech- was baked in 48 small griddles. She could uan Noodle Bowl, where we relished the va- shape and stuff fortunes into 13 cookies per riety of Chinese dumplings. After lunch, we minute. Broken pieces were sold as “unfor- met at Hing Hay Park, the site of a colorful tunates” in the retail shop. With high-speed Chinese pavilion that was a gift from the city automation, over 7,000 cookies are now of Taipei. Under the ginkgo biloba trees, we produced per hour. Fewer are broken, but ate exquisite Japanese wagashi, (traditional demand remains high, so the Louie family tea sweets) resembling fan-shaped ginkgo continues to produce them on older ma- leaves. Each piece mirrored the golden-yel- chines. We received a bag of vanilla-scented low ginkgo leaves hanging over our heads. fortune cookies from Naomi; they were thin,

Freshly made Chinese noodles drying on a rack. Naomi Kakiuchi and Brian Louie sample "unfortunate" cookies. Photos: CiCi Williamson. We ate plump pork and chive dumplings and vegetable dumplings with scallion pancakes at the Szechuan Noodle Bowl. Traditional Japanese wagashi made from mochi and anko (red bean paste). Photos: Susan Slack.

[ Tour 6 ] Cutting Edge—Where Technology Meets Food By Beth Pav (Austin) stories of her love of doughnuts, collaboration with Amazon, and building a restaurant empire. “Look up and look around” were the first words Sugar high and caffeine buzzed, we met Ama- we heard as Dames stepped off the bus into what zon’s chief horticulturist and plant whisperer, is referred to as “Amazonia;” really, Ron Gagliardo. In groups, we toured each floor it’s downtown Seattle. Looking of The Spheres. closely, we saw thoughtfully Moving upwards on stone footpaths, we designed landscapes and intricate were enveloped in over 40,000 plant varieties architecture. Hence, we begin our from regions in over 30 countries. Significant LDEI pre-conference tour. is a 3-panel plant wall holding 25,000 plants In the shadow of The (Ama- 3 stories high. We walked along a suspended zon) Spheres, tour guides Molly Hancock, VP bridge leading to a man-made “birds nest” where Programs FareStart, and Danielle Custer, Bon employees nestled comfortably on benches. At Appetite Management, begin with an overview every turn, flora and water features mimicked of Amazon Go, The Spheres, General Porpoise, tropical eco-systems in explosions of color and and FareStart. “Look around—Amazon’s culture texture. Our guide shared Amazons’ philosophy begins right here,” Molly says. “See that dog park that a connection to nature makes you feel over there?” Not a few steps away was a beauti- good. Therefore, The Spheres are a place to learn, fully designed city dog park made especially for be curious, recharge, and inspire. Amazon employees. Moving through the morn- Thusly inspired, our tour moved across the ing bustle of employees, we petted some friendly street to one of Amazon’s newly funded expan- dogs and made our way to Amazon Go. sions holding FareStart, a nonprofit providing Amazon Go is a grocery store that uses several national culinary job-training programming. technologies to automate the shoppers’ experi- Danielle explained how Amazon’s philanthropy ence. We downloaded the app, perused pre- touches people and business through food service package foods, beverages, and various sundries, partnerships. FareStart, through adult and youth shopped, and left! Next thing you know, our programming, is transforming the personal lives purchase receipts were emailed to us. It was the of the homeless and impoverished. Stepping perfect technological, hands-on, in-and-out through their kitchens and speaking with ap- shopping experience! Next stop—The Spheres. prentices, we viewed first-hand the difference this The Spheres are an architectural wonder of glass programming is making in individual lives. After L-R: Dianne Hogerty, Mindy Merrell, Beth and steel built specifically as a tropical biosphere Pav, Fern Yoshida, Karen Dar Woon, Cindy the tour, we enjoyed a delicious apprenticed- workspace for Amazon employees. We gathered McGann, Margaret Norfleet Neff, Mary made luncheon in the FareStart restaurant. Spe- for doughnuts, coffee and conversation with Kimbrough, Audrey Nelson. Coffee and cial thanks to our tour guides for this exceptional doughnuts at General Porpoise with Dame James Beard award winner and General Porpoise tour, which was a wonderful experience! For Renee Erickson. owner Renee Erickson. She regaled us with additional information, visit: www.farestart.org. WINTER QUARTERLY 2019 9 “I left Conference understanding the importance of the organization and feeling inspired. I also made some great connections and learned about new brands to potentially partner with.” Ashley Strickland Freeman (Charleston)

Renee Erickson, award-winning James An Evening of Aloha: The LDEI President’s Dinner Beard chef, chats with Carol Brock. During Conference, 2018 International President Hayley Matson-Mathes (Hawaii) hosted President Hayley recognized Executive Director Greg Jewell, president of AEC a President’s Dinner at Renee Erickson’s General Porpoise restaurant for the outgoing and Resources, for 17 years of invaluable incoming Boards, past presidents, Conference co-chairs, and special guests. A welcoming service to LDEI (since Nov. 1, 2002). “aloha spirit” was evident in the flower arrangements, fragrant lei, and thoughtful gifts Then-President Renie Steves said an of appreciation for the guests. Once reserved for royalty, the lei is given for many reasons association with AEC and Greg would including aloha, hospitality, and respect. The occasion was also an advance birthday increase the organization’s efficiency and facilitate a strong connection celebration for LDEI founder Carol Brock (New York), soon to turn 95-years-young. Carol among chapters. was honored with a special cake and showered with well wishes and appreciation for impacting the lives of countless women.

FIRST-TIME ATTENDEES

10 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Leadership Meeting Inspires Learning and Sharing By Sharon Olson ment of new members. (Chicago) The advice from Deborah was to seek out and recruit members Learning from experts has who can contribute substan- always been a hallmark of the tially to the organization. She leadership meet- offered to share the details of ing at the Annual the New York process with any Conference. This interested chapters. year’s Conference Blanca Aldaco shared the con- took advantage of vivial yet professional nature of the experts among the San Antonio Chapter’s board our members meetings which are typically who have invested their time fully attended. San Antonio is and passion in building their another chapter that understood, chapters. from the very beginning, the Debra Kaminski, found- need for diversity and focused on ing president of the Portland recruiting beyond current profes- Chapter, shared her story of sional friends. the struggles and triumphs of Working together toward a building their new chapter. From charitable endeavor in the lo- the very beginning, she made a cal community unites chapter commitment to recruit members members. There is a clear un- from diverse professional disci- derstanding among members of plines and to not only focus on the San Antonio Chapter that the tight circle of her established membership in Les Dames is professional networks. much more than an item to put Building membership one on a résumé. Dame at a time was Debra’s Insight from the presentations strategy, and it often led her to and discussions that followed: make cold calls and personal visits to prospective members. • Recruit members from It was not uncommon to find diverse backgrounds and her sitting in a restaurant long professional disciplines. after her meal, waiting to talk • Clearly communicate the with the chef at the end of the advantages and responsibili- evening. The next challenge was ties of membership. creating a board with vision • Member surveys and effec- and the ability to execute. Three tive communication help significant learnings helped this chapters build member chapter grow: do not give up value. when things do not work out as • Maintain positive, produc- planned, do not be discouraged, tive communication with and do not be hesitant to ask chapter members. for support from International Board members and particularly • Chapter management is Chapter Board Liaisons. running a business. Deborah Mintcheff, past • Reach out for advice, sup- president of the large and well- port, and guidance. established New York Chapter, • Let set-backs be learning ex- shared the journey of her chap- periences to build a stronger ter in re-evaluating its member- future. ship process to assure that the • Enjoy the experience. chapter maintains its vibrancy and relevance. The challenge As one first time attendee and this chapter faced was member chapter president shared at the engagement. As the chapter’s conclusion of the meeting, “it membership process was evalu- was wonderful to have a forum ated, critical points were recon- where all of our burning issues were addressed in such a sup- Leadership speakers, L-R: Blanca Aldaco, Deborah Mintcheff, and Debra Ka- sidered. These included: sponsor minski. Julie Chernoff. Photo by Lisa Stewart. L-R: Drew Faulkner (Washington, responsibility, a communicative portive environment.” Everyone D.C.) and Stephanie Jaeger (BC). Seattle Dame Alice Gautsch Foreman. Photo: and transparent recruitment adjourned from the meeting Lisa Stewart. Photos of roundtable discussions on leadership by Lisa Stewart. process, and immediate engage- with a new sense of optimism for the future of their chapters. WINTER QUARTERLY 2019 11 Top row: The Pike Brewing Company. Jackie Cross, owner of Prosser Farm, chats with Hayley Mathes. Jackie and Tom Douglas, her husband, supply vegetables for Tom Douglas Restaurants. Photo: Lisa Nakamura. Salmon smoked on handcrafted red cedar planks with dried sugar kelp flakes and bull kelp mignonette. Middle row: Seattle Culi- nary Academy students from Seattle Central College. Photo: Lisa Nakamura. Fin River Cider. Penn Cove Thai-Style Mussels. L-R: Seattle Conference Co-Chair Cynthia Nims with Seattle Dame Linda Chauncey. Photo: Lisa Nakamura.

Bottom row: Seattle Dames, L-R: Pascha Scott, Anne Nisbet, Jamie Peha. Photo: Lisa Nakamura. Dame Maria Coassin (L) of Gelatiamo with a helper. Executive Chef Tom Douglas won the 2012 James Beard Outstanding Restau- rateur award. Photos: Susan Slack, unless noted otherwise.

and the Puget Sound. Its major port cities are Shell with Sugar Kelp Mignonette. Seattle, Vancouver, Tacoma, Bellingham, Port The seafood offerings were paired with an Salishly Angeles, and Victoria, which make up part of array of wines, ciders, and beers from local the megalopolis extending from West Vancou- vineyards, farms, and breweries. Dame Kay Delicious— ver, BC, to Olympia, Washington. Simon poured her Chinook Wines; others According to scientists, there are at least were provided from Chateau Ste. Michelle, 253 identified species of fish and bivalves Buty Winery, DAMA Wines, and Baer Win- A Seafood Feast inhabiting the regions of the Salish Sea, and ery. There was San Pellegrino Sparking Water, the feasting Dames got to sample quite a few cider from Finn River Cider, and craft beer By Irene Moore (South Florida) of them. The dinner featured an amazing served by Pike Brewing Company that was On Thursday evening, October 11, many showcase of Pacific Northwest clams, oysters, generously donated by the company’s owner, of the Dames and guests who attended the mussels, salmon and more, as well as several Dame Rose Ann Finkel. Opening Reception—the non-seafood offerings. Another treat was Squash with Bacon-Onion traditional Conference kick-off When we arrived, Chef Tom—a winner of Agrodulce from Prosser Farms. To wrap up —took a brisk walk afterwards the James Beard Best Chef of the Northwest dinner with a sweet ending, Maria Coas- in the crisp, autumn air to Tom award—was preparing Cedar Plank Smoked sin served refreshing gelato from Gelatiamo Douglas’ Palace Ballroom to Salmon. Once inside, we were offered samples accompanied by an assortment of bite-size attend the Seattle Chapter’s as well as a delicious harvest soup to warm us pastries and cookies. benefit dinner, Salishly Deli- up. Tom Douglas Catering also passed minia- “The evening’s proceeds benefitted the Puget cious. During the lavish event, guests feasted ture crab cakes. From the shellfish farm Hama Sound Restoration Fund, which works to re- on shellfish and finfish straight from the Hama, we ate fresh oysters on the half-shell store marine habitat, water quality, and native Salish Sea. and steamed Manila clams with Honeycrisp species in Puget Sound. The Fund is commit- Never heard of the Salish Sea? You would apples, Guanciale, Celery Leaf, and Finn ted to a vision of keeping the Sound clean and have if you lived in the Northwest. It’s the River Apple Cider. Penn Cove Shellfish served healthy, productive, full of life, and sustaining network of coastal waterways encompassing Mussels Meuniere Style with Prosser Leeks the local ecosystem. The Restoration Fund the northwestern portion of the state of Wash- and White Wine, and also Thai-Style Mussels rebuilds populations of oysters, abalone, and ington and the southwestern portion of British with Coconut Green Curry and Thai Basil. kelp—all key to maintaining a healthy ecosys- Columbia. Comprising the Salish Sea are the Chelsea Farms Oysters & Clams featured tem and helping to keep the waters pristine Strait of Georgia, the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Geoduck Crudo, and Oysters on the Half and bountiful for generations to come.”

12 Les Dames d’Escoffier International M.F.K. FISHER AWARDS, 2018 Cleveland Dame Elaine Cicora Wins the Grand Prize By Mary Ellen Griffin Role model Lori Matsukawa purposely navigates the road that lies ahead of her, and she considers all the (New York) possibilities when opportunity comes her way. But Sixty or so years ago, sometimes, taking a look back through the rear view mirror to snap a group selfie can be great fun! Dame Elaine Cicora dined at an Italian restaurant whose chef- KEYNOTE SPEAKER owner went on to be known as Chef Boyard- ee. She confides, "I impressed our waiter Living Your Best Life— with my capacity for scarfing down spaghetti…I’ve often chuckled at the A Conversation with memory of being praised by our slim, elegant, Italian server for being such a Award-Winning News good little eater! No wonder I became a restaurant critic!" Anchor Lori Matsukawa And this little tyke went on to win the 2018 M.F.K. Fisher Grand Prize 2018 M.F.K. Fisher Chair CiCi Williamson By Katherine Newell Smith winner for “Me & Chef Boyardee: How and Elaine Chicora, Grand Prize and Print Cleveland’s first celebrity chef made me Category Winner. CiCi Williamson and Ea- (Washington, D.C.) granie Yuh, First Prize Winner for the Internet the woman I am today,” a warm and Category. “Life is all about choices,” Lori Matsukawa humorous article which appeared in the said. “We make them and we live with the re- Summer 2017 issue of Edible Cleveland. And she made a special call out, which sults.” Lori, the news anchor for Seattle’s NBC- Elaine went on to explain that Ettore we all echo, thanking CiCi Williamson affiliate King 5 TV, described her Boiardi was an immigrant from Italy, like (Washington, D.C.) who has worked life of fortunate choices, not all her grandfather, who came to the United tirelessly to make the M.F.K. Fisher of them obvious at the time, dur- States via Ellis Island in 1914. "The chef’s Awards the success story it is today. ing her keynote speech at LDEI’s story appealed to me for so many reasons: Commenting on the importance of the Seattle Conference. the bonds of a shared Italian heritage, the M.F.K. Fisher Awards: "In an era when Growing up in Hawaii, with fact that (he) went on to become, as one newspapers and magazines have been educators as parents, she was a socially awkward of his acquaintances put it, “the American hemorrhaging both readers and their girl with braces and glasses. So, as a 15-year-old success story personified…” most experienced and talented staff, wallflower with a lot of time on her hands, she On presenting the award at this year's and novice writers are routinely urged decided to take piano lessons. A quick study, her Annual Conference, Hayley Matson- to write “for exposure” rather than for musical abilities soon led to a successful audition Mathes (Hawaii) quoted another word- money, awards programs like this one, to become the accompanist for her high school smith, Antonia Allegra (San Francisco) that formally recognize works of merit choir. She even dreamed of becoming a piano who penned her reflections on her close and encourage writers to strive to meet teacher. friend, M.F.K. Fisher, to share at this the highest standards, are vital to keep- During that same year, while walking home on a Conference: "Thinking of Mary Frances ing the field of culinary writing strong seldom-traveled street after a piano lesson, Lori was (you did not truly "know" her if you and relevant." That this contest specifi- assailed by a “short, burly man” with a gun. She called her M.F.K.), I gladly share these cally solicits and recognizes the work resisted as best she could as he pulled her toward reminiscences of that goddess of the pen of women writers is more meaningful a house. Miraculously, a passing car carrying a and the pan. Not that she was a cook still." Congratulations, Dame Cicora! soldier and his wife stopped. The soldier got out, who prepared elegant dishes in the style yelled at the man to let Lori go, which he did and of Escoffier—in fact, she spent more The M.F.K. Fisher Awards celebrate fled. Lori escaped to the safety of the soldier’s car as time considering the guests and how they excellence in culinary writing in the cat- the police were called. The soldier’s choice to stop would feel at her table. Her food? I'd call egories of book, print, and internet. Of the and intervene may have saved Lori’s life. it "simple country fare," accompanied nine winners chosen to receive an award Lori continued her musical training and by local wines or those vintages brought in 2018, five were Dames. In addition to participation in the high school choir which, in hand by visitors." Her curiosity about Grand Prize winner Elaine Cicora, they being in Hawaii, had two programs: American others in her life, or those new to her life, were Eagranie Yuh (British Columbia), standards and a Polynesian show. When the choir truly made Mary Frances click…I'm cer- Cat Neville (St. Louis); Jamie Schler performed its Polynesian repertoire, a pianist was tain that were she with all of you today, (Philadelphia and Paris); and Heather not required. However, as it happened, Lori had she'd be encouraging the writers." Arndt Anderson (Portland). Eagranie studied ukulele and hula as a child and could Our 2018 winner graciously thanked Yuh won First Prize, Internet Category all the people—Les Dames d'Escoffier for her story: Vancouver’s Wildly Popular continued ON PAGE 39 International Board, the anonymous Dinner Series is Helping Syrian Women judges, several Cleveland Dames, her Settle into a New Home.” It is published family, her husband, and her readers. at Saveur online. Susan Slack, Editor. WINTER QUARTERLY 2019 13 CONCURRENT SESSIONS

Up Your Communications Game with Appreciative Inquiry Oysters Are a By Marie Kelley (San Diego) Reason for a Party! “At the end of the day people won't remember what you said or what you did, they will remember how you made By Dorothy Colby them feel.” Maya Angelou..." (Hawaii) Back by popular demand, Anne Marie Smoke challenged Conference partici- Oyster farmers pants to ask themselves how they would Lissa James Monberg, raw oysters. Lissa noted that she did deal with conflict in a relationship? How marketing Director of not eat raw oysters growing up, and do I give and receive feedback? How Hama Hama Oysters, her father may not have eaten a raw can I better communicate for effective, and Shina Wysocki, oyster to this day. In the 1970s, Hama productive results? vice president of Hama opened a retail store to sell their Chelsea Farms, shared their history excess products. After noticing the "car Feedback is a difficult conversation. People want to be and passion for the oysters of Wash- shuckers"—people buying, shucking, recognized for what they do well. It's important to rec- ington. Along with moderator Renee and eating the raw oysters in the park- ognize our own gifts as well as the gifts of others. Most Erickson, Chef/Owner of Sea Crea- ing lot—they put up tents and called it of the time people give you feedback, it’s because it has tures Restaurants, they highlighted a restaurant. In 2014, they opened the to do with them. Anne Marie shared Three Essential what makes this region so unique and Oyster Saloon restaurant to showcase Elements of Feedback: spectacular for oyster farming. Renee their oysters to the community. 1. TRUST opened the session by declaring, Growing up, Shina noticed there Lay a foundation of trust, honesty, building rapport, "Oysters are a reason for a party!" was more of an oyster culture in other respect, smiling, compliments, apology, and showing Lissa's fifth generation family oyster locations than in her own community. an interest. When receiving feedback, establish equality farm was built on hard work and clean To reestablish the connection between and mutual interest, obtain as much information as water. Started as a timber company their oysters and the community, they possible, and don't be defensive or place blame. When in the 1890s, Hama Hama is now opened the Chelsea Farms Oyster Bar. giving feedback say, "I thought you did this well. I a family-owned sustainable tree and "When people eat something, they think you can do this better." Don't presume—ask. Fo- oyster farm. They manage both sides of become more connected to it," Shina cus on what's working. Leave "buts" behind (negativ- the tideline, ensuring the health of the says. "Oysters are at the forefront ity), and use "and" instead as part of the solution. upstream water source for the oysters. of knowing where your food comes Lissa summed it up, "The oyster is from...they are traceable to time and 2. ACTIVE LISTENING an honest creature, it will tell us if we place. Restaurants can put the names Listen to understand. Don’t react; hold your reply. are doing a bad job." Hama Hama of farms on their menus because as Body language controls emotions. It's “not about me" grows two varieties at their home farmers, we were already labeling our equals “focus on the speaker.” To legitimize, say "I hear farm: beach-grown Hama Hamas and oysters this way." you." Summarize by saying, "Let me be sure I heard tumble-farmed Blue Pools. Of course the highlight of an oyster what you said." Shina's parents started sustainable class is the oyster tasting! Dames 3. POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT shellfish farming as Chelsea Farms in sampled the Olympia, Hama Hama, Apply the Principals of Appreciative Inquiry. Ap- 1987, initially focusing on geoduck Blue Pool, and Chelsea Gem. One by preciative Inquiry (AI) is an elegant way to minimize diving. Her father, John Lentz, in- one, the oysters were savored and their complexity by moving away from problem solving vented the tide tumbling rack system, flavors pondered. As with wine tasting, and steering toward achieving a vision. It is a “change whereby the bags of oysters move by it is important to consider the many management” tool for discovery with a focus on the themselves with the tide. Prior to this sensory aspects of the oyster. First look positive. Three Principles of Appreciative Inquiry are: invention, Shina's mother Linda Lentz at the oyster's appearance to judge its 1. When you inquire, you intervene, frame the situa- was the one to do the heavy labor of size, shape, shell's cup depth, and shell tion, guide the conversation. Set a vision/goal. tumbling them by hand. This helped surface. Don't swallow your oyster 2. Positive thoughts guide positive progress. Think keep the family in business and the whole, chew it to savor the different about the best possible outcomes. Positivity breeds invention has helped the entire oyster flavors of the entire animal. What is positivity. "By praising good in people and ignoring the industry as well. Shina, along with the intensity of the brininess, and is bad, the good is reinforce, and the bad withers away." her brother Kyle Lentz, carry on their it brief or lingering? What flavors do 3. People have assets and strengths that can be lever- parents' vision of sustainable farming you detect? Are they earthy, mineral, aged and encouraged. Legitimize people by focusing and growing and reinvigorating the buttery, or sweet? And finally, is the on their assets. What's your vision? Emphasize a shared endangered native Olympia Oyster. texture firm, chewy, crunchy, or soft? vision and goals. Their attention and care for the water To fully enjoy the taste of raw oysters, The group engaged in an exercise that presented allows them to grow their Chelsea Lissa, Shina, and Renee shared these real life situations with creative solutions for positive Gem, Bonita, and Olympia Oyster, final tips (or perhaps, pleas): "Don't change! along with clams and geoduck. douse your oysters in hot sauce, and Editor’s Note: This popular, educational session was It wasn’t long ago that the culinary please don't drink red wine with your funded by The Brock Circle. culture was centered on cooked, not oysters. Drink anything but!"

14 Les Dames d’Escoffier International The Impact of Visual Storytelling By CiCi Williamson documentary project chronicles (Washington, D.C.) the rise of women working in agriculture around the world “Advancements in electronics and gives a powerful voice to the have put high-quality cameras in fastest growing demographic in everyone’s pock- agriculture, the female farmer. Madeline Puckette is an author, misused category; data easily ets,” said Hsiao- Audra is also the co-executive designer, sommelier, and entre- misrepresented. Ching Chou producer of the in-production preneur “I create greater impact • Photos. Most powerful to con- (Seattle), Author, documentary film, “Women’s with visual communication than textualize human experience, Chinese Soul Food, Work: The Untold Story of with written language,” she said. and emotions and moderator. America’s Female Farmers.” Her Wine Folly blog became • Time-based Visuals. Show “The ever-growing Audra said, “I believe in visual known for its educational info- cause and effect; outline morals landscape of startups and app de- storytelling as the impetus for graphics, writing, and products; and lessons; incite action. velopment has democratized our change, and 91% of consum- she uses visual storytelling to ability to infuse graphic design create a brand. " Her book, Wine Madeline gave steps for making ers prefer visual contact. People an effective design. into everything from a text to a want to connect. The best visual Folly, The Master Guide, takes a blog post. But there is no app stories contain these four ele- deep dive into wine education us- 1. Determine the real problem that can easily teach us how to ments: (1) They entertain; (2) ing powerful visual tools to help you’re trying to solve. Know harness these advancements in a educate; (3) instill values; and beginners learn wine quickly." what the person may or may meaningful way.” (4) proliferate culture.” “There are five different types not know and give them the To advance our education were Audra recommends using a of visual communications to get basics. Audra Mulkern, a photogra- variety of formula shots to tell your point across. Each type can 2. Define the "who": Find out pher and writer, and Madeline your story. be used to better express your who cares about this problem. message.” Puckette, an award-winning wine • Wide – sense of place Focus in on who your cus- • Maps. Provide place, scale, tomer is. blogger known for her educa- • Medium – general-purpose; distance, perspective, and tional infographics. most shots 3. Select the best visual commu- The founder of The Female direction. nication method for the job. • Detail – fill the frame with Farmer Project™, Audra “took an • Diagrams and Drawings. something up close 4. Define the box: How and image of a female farmer with Simplify information, provide where will your visual commu- my phone and realized that pho- • Portrait –human, bird, any- focus, prioritize importance, nication be used? Plan for vari- to was the most powerful image thing with character and create a hierarchy. able conditions. A good rule of and storytelling tool in agricul- • Action –move story, show • Graphs and Data Visualiza- thumb is to make the design as ture today.” Her multi-platform work. tion. Define factual data; large as possible.

ferent FareStart Kitchens. opened multiple eateries in the Changing Lives Through Food These participants receive South Lake Union that serve By Pat Ward graders feature after-school support in housing, food, as training sites. See how lives transportation, counseling, were changed at www.farestart. (Philadelphia) programs, spring/summer camps, and evening cooking recovery, and legal support org. Leaders in the classes. Students take home even after getting a job. In 2010, FareStart launched march against foods they’ve cooked as well as • Youth Barista Program and Catalyst Kitchens—a thriv- hunger—Dame fresh vegetables. Laura shared Youth Culinary Programs ing alliance of more than 60 Molly Han- videos of kids arriving at sum- offer young people a path organizations across the U.S. cock, Laura mer camp, walking through the to success including support and Canada—working to end Dewell, and garden with a master gardener, for housing, counseling, life joblessness, poverty, and hun- Renée Martin—shared how Se- cooking, and enjoying a meal skills, paid training stipend, ger. Renée suggested seeing the attle-based nonprofits brought together. New tastes, flavors, and high school credit. map at www.catalystkitchens. nutritious food, culinary skills, and friends—it’s all about food. • Community & School org for locations. If you wish job training, and meal sharing Check out Foodie Empire Meals Programs feed people to start a new program/service to its poorest communities. Videos at www.greenplatespe- in shelters, hospice care, or in your area, check out the “It disturbed me that few cial.org. educational organizations Catalyst Consulting section. It young people connect where FareStart, founded in 1992, 365 days a year. offers research/evaluation tools food comes from and eating transforms lives by empower- • Guest Chef Night gives and proven strategic services— it,” says Laura. In 2011, she ing the homeless and disadvan- students the opportunity and more. founded Green Plate Special taged to achieve self-sufficiency to work with community To get involved in your com- with its mission to inspire and through life skills, job training, chefs. munity, check out existing empower young people to and employment in the food And launched in July 2017, programs. Be a guest chef or experience food in new ways, service industry. Molly Han- a six-month, first-of-its-kind speaker. Connect. Volunteer. through growing, cooking, and cock described current core Foodservice Apprenticeship Donate. Support. Employ. eating together. programs: Program featuring paid profes- There’s much to do, but to- Its curriculum-based units • Adult Culinary Program sional and technical skill train- gether we can change lives with for fourth through eighth trains adults in several dif- ing. Simultaneously, FareStart food, one person at a time!

WINTER QUARTERLY 2019 15 CONCURRENT SESSIONS

Seeing the World through Rosé Tinted Glasses By Chicago Dames Veronica Along the way, Dawn shared professional Hastings and Liz Barret tips on food pairings: • The weight of the wine should match the Dame Katherine Cole, au- “weight” of the dish. So, a heavier rosé thor of the book, Rosé All Day, of, say, Cabernet Franc, might be perfect and Dame Dawn Smith, som- with a “weightier dish,” such as pasta with melier at The Inn at Langley on a cream sauce or even a burger, while a Whidbey Island, WA, present- lighter rosé would be perfect with a deli- ed a fascinating seminar on the cate fish dish or a salad. 2017 Yakima Valley, WA Olsen Vineyard— wine that has stolen America’s • Residual sugar is not a “dirty word!” A Huge aromatics of dried rose petals, honey- heart— rosé— entitled, “The slight sweetness can complement spicy or suckle, jasmine and apricots. Silky mouthfeel. Evolution of Rosé.” salty foods like Thai dishes or sushi. Food pairing idea: Roasted pork or chicken.. On the history of rosé, Kath- Schloss Gobelsburg “Cistercian” 2017 Rosé erine explained that, “Rosé is • When in doubt, go for rosé—it’s versatile Niederösterreich Austria (Zweigelt, St. Laurent, perhaps one of the most ancient enough to go with almost anything. Try Pinot Noir)—Orange and red plum aromas, types of wine. She pointed to the region of these rosé & food pairings: rich honey texture and mouthwatering acidity, Georgia, known as the historical birthplace of La Spinetta “Il Rosé Casanova” 2017 accented with a spritzy finish. Food pairing: wine, and how most of the indigenous grapes Toscana, Italy (Sangiovese and Prugnolo lighter meats like chicken or fish. of that region produce wines of a coppery color. Gentile)—A savory aroma of dried herbs like Domaine de la Mordorée “La Dame In France, the elite drank rosé throughout thyme and oregano, followed by darker plum Rousse” Rosé 2017 Tavel, France (Gr- the 1600s and 1700s, because light-colored and cherry fruits. Food pairing idea: heirloom enache, Cinsault, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Bour- wine was deemed more aristocratic, while the tomato salad with Lap Cheong pork sausage. belenc, Clairette)— Strawberry and savory peasants drank “rough red.” Rosé has stayed Chinook Rosé of Cabernet Franc 2017 herbs (thyme, rosemary) and dried lavender. popular throughout France, and in the last Yakima Valley, Washington—ripe, red fruits Complex and full-bodied with intense fruit five years the category has exploded in the like strawberry and watermelon with a subtle and herb flavors. Food pairing: “what grows U.S., taking over increasing amounts of shelf note of vanilla custard. together goes together,” Niçoise salad, Bran- space in retail stores and on wine lists. Two Vintners “OG” Rosé of Gewurtztraminer dade, dishes with olives.

New Life for Heritage Grains By Antoinette saw to the decline of 15,000 mills in our country. Benjamin (Ann Arbor) The Bread Lab breeds and Dame Leslie Mackie founder develops publicly available L-R: Leslie Mackie, Mel Darbyshire, and Dr. Stephen S. Jones. Rustic, artisan bread. Photo: Susan Slack of Macrina Bakery and Mel varieties of grains and other Darbyshire, head baker for crops that benefit farmers, A kilo of fresh milled flour was ents. The philosophy of the Grand Central Baking joined processors, and end, users given to each attendee. bakery is to enhance both Dr. Stephen S. while enhancing access to Hats off to LDEI’s Seattle the natural products and the Jones, director of affordable and nutritious food Chapter who helped the Bread flavors of the various grains The Bread Lab for all members of their local Lab create a $1.5 million created from Northwest apples, at Washington community. It is a combina- Endowed Professorship for potatoes, cranberries, and State Univer- tion think tank and baking organic plant breeding and hazelnuts, as well as wheat, rye, sity for a most laboratory where scientists innovation. The proposed en- barley, and buckwheat flours. informative grow small grains from all over dowment was lacking $25,000 Mel Darbyshire, the head presentation on the breeding of the world and through scien- and the window of time to baker from Grand Central grain varietals, which combines tific, genetic crosses produce a secure the funds was ending. Bakery, is responsible for science and innovation to variety of grains that will work The Seattle Dames sprang into making sure that each of the encourage the resurgence of a well in the field as well as for action and voted to contribute bakeries in this corporation regional grain culture. the consumer. The program the amount so that the endow- continues to produce high- Dr. Jones explained that a is unique because it engages ment could be realized! quality breads, which ignited kernel of wheat is one of the the millers, farmers, maltsters, Leslie Mackie has been shar- the bread revolution in Seattle most nutrient dense foods on distillers, brewers, bakers, ing beautiful artisan breads in 1989 when rustic artisan the plant. Making white flour and chefs to experiment with with the Seattle community loaves found their way to essentially eliminates the nu- improved flavor, nutrition, since 1993 and was named by Northwest tables. Samples of trients. Large roller mills to ef- and functionality of regional Bon Appetit as one of the best the delicious breads from both ficiently produce a shelf-stable, and obscure wheats, barley, bread bakeries in America. of these bakeries were gobbled predictable, uniform product and small grains, which then Their loaves are made with up, enjoyed, and appreciated stripped of its nutritional value benefits a regional community. wholesome, natural ingredi- by all of the attendees.

16 Les Dames d’Escoffier International L-R: Judy Hall, Food Waste—Delicious Debris Jessica Tonani, This year’s critical issue and moderator baked goods. Erin’s “lightbulb Chef By Margaret Happel Tamara Perry (New York) moment” led her to experiment Murphy. successfully with its use in all Food waste and its beneficial manner of savory foods, from Cannabis Cuisine utilization was the theme of the condiments to pasta. She is now Conference’s looking for a wider application By Cecilia Pozo Fileti (LA/OC) most important in the “salty crunchy spectrum” and well-attended of food manufacturing. Maximal MS, RDN, FADA, FAND Green Tables use of the coffee bean has yielded Like a trailer for an upcoming movie, real life played out in this session. Dames financial savings, which benefit October 13 session as presenters provided clarity on cannabis. Arnell Hinkle, coffee plantation workers, afford- On October 17, 2018, Canada paved the way MA, RD, MPH, ing them better nutrition, better for cannabis to be a legal substance throughout CHES® (San Francisco) and Amy housing, and better education. the country. By 2022, legal cannabis revenue in Myrdal Miller, MS, RDN, FAND Leann and her business part- Canada is projected to reach $5.5 billion and the (SF & Sacramento), currently co- ner, husband, Mike Krainick, U.S. target estimates are at $23.4 billion. Poised chairs of Green Tables, introduced have long been using “spent for big growth, the cannabis plant has recreation- the authoritative panel. grain” from Seattle breweries as al, medicinal, and culinary functionality. Jill Lightner, the author of Scraps, enriched feed for their 1,100 Jessica Tonani, a biotechnology professional and Co-Founder of Peels, and Stems (mountaineer- head of cattle. The grain has high Verda Bio, led with an introduction of the basics about Can- books.org), led the discussion protein content and its yeast con- nabis Sativa and the valued female crop. Since as far back as under the headings of practical- tent acts as a pro-biotic, which 2700 B.C., therapeutic properties have been extracted from the ity, recycling, sustainability, and helps digestion. “Spent grain” cannabis plant. Constituent elements of the plant include delta-9 creativity. Erin Brennan of Coffee is a welcomed alternative to tetrahydrocannabinol (TCH—the main psychoactive com- Flour Lab, and Leann Krainick, expensive corn and barley feed. pound), cannabinoids, terpenes, and flavonoids. partner in a sustainable dairy The ecological and economic Presently on your table, ingredients like truffle, saffron, cocoa, farm and its subsidiary business advantages of feed from local and black pepper also produce phytocannabinoids—and even Scarecrow’s Pride, drilled down breweries is the reduction of land your body makes cannabinoids. Cannabinoids are odorless, on specific local wastage problems fill charges and the elimination of colorless compounds that can do amazing things, Jessica shared. arising from Seattle’s important long-distance trucking costs. De- The THC component produces the high or euphoric effect that coffee and brewing industries. hydrated, farm-processed manure impacts hunger and pain relief. Heat activates THC converting Erin’s expertise lies in recycling is a separate, off-shoot business the compound into THC D—the psychoactive form. Discovered a residual coffee product from from the dairy herd. The “spent in 1940, the cannibidiol (CBD) component found in the hemp Seattle’s favorite beverage: the grain” fertilizer is now part of the portion of the plant produces no high, is an anti-inflammatory, outer husk or “cherry” of the waste utilization cycle that helps reduces pain, and is a non-drug. Components can be eaten, coffee bean. Usually discarded produce local giant pumpkins inhaled, applied vis transdermal methods, or used as a topical. during processing, it can be dried, for Krainick Farm’s and Elysian Presenter Jody Hall, a visionary pioneer of adult use of cannabis roasted, and milled into spicy Brewing’s Great Pumpkin Weigh- in products and Founder of The Goodship, shared her remark- flavored ‘coffee cherry flour.’ As an In and Beer Festival. The biggest able history and evolution into the edible market. Hops are a alternative, the husk can be dried pumpkin is filled with beer and plant considered similar to cannabis. Will consumers want a and brewed into a gently stimulat- ultimately recycled as feed and bud instead of a beer…a bartender or a budtender? Trends and ing tea. Nutrient dense, with good fertilizer when it is drained dry! forecasts for use in the recreational and therapeutic markets con- measures of iron, antioxidants, LDEI’s socially aware program tinue to emerge. Cannabis integration into cookies, gummies, potassium, and protein, coffee sessions demonstrate how deeply jellies, baked goods, chewing gum, and tea is just the beginning. cherry flour has less caffeine than committed our members are to Ms. Hall reviewed key guidelines for making products that are an ounce of chocolate. Given its grassroots solutions and provide safe, delicious, and controlled. A continuing set of issues revolves slightly bitter flavor, the product’s an impetus for action on a broader around production and distribution channels with variations in original context was in sweet national scale. More next year! state-by-state laws. Regulatory challenges will continue to be an issue in the foreseeable future. CBD creams and oils are gaining popularity for use in pain man- agement, reduction of anxiety and depression, alleviating cancer- related symptoms, acne reduction, epilepsy, Parkinson’s Disease, and other chronic conditions. Safety and efficacy data continues to evolve as consumers look for therapeutic solutions, especially in a natural form. As an emerging market, it is critical to understand sourcing, controls, and working with knowledgeable staff. Tips for the culinary world: • Strength has increased over time and dosing does matter— start low and increase slowly. • Strain names like Focus, Sleepy, Happy are not legally regulated terms and thus are subject to seller and buyer interpretation. L-R: Delicious Debris speakers Jill Lightner, Erin Brannan, and Leann Krainick. • U.S. Federal law makes it illegal to cross state lines with cannabis.

WINTER QUARTERLY 2019 17 PARTNERS' SHOWCASE LUNCHEON Tasting Big, Bright Ideas from our Generous Partners Erin Byers Murray my eyes first. As I wound through (Nashville) from table to table, plate in hand, I discovered succulent salmon, rich The energy could be and tasty cheese and butter, fragrant felt all throughout the pearled couscous, well-made wines, Courtyard Ballroom baked goods, pizzas, and raspberries, inside Seattle’s Renaissance Hotel plus women-friendly chef’s apparel, during this year’s and great stories told on the page. Partners Showcase Luncheon—it was Our lineup included Wente Family a dynamite showcase of tastes, dishes, Vineyards, Alaska Seafood Marketing products, and wares. Institute, Beautiful Briny Sea, Breville As this annual showcase proves, our USA, Cakebread Cellars, Chefwear, Partners are an essential component of Fairytale Brownies, Kerrygold, the LDEI experience. Their support Mahatma Rice/Rice Select, National makes our Annual Conference possible, Processed Raspberry Council, Plate, and their expertise and product Roland Foods, Chateau Ste. Michelle development fuel us inside and out. Wine Estates, Sunnyland Farms, and During this year’s showcase, I walked Zingerman’s Bakehouse. It was a feast around the perimeter of the room for all of the senses and a strong show of several times before getting to my support at this year’s Annual Conference place in line—I was feasting with Partners Showcase Luncheon.

WENTE FAMILY ESTATES ALASKA SEAFOOD BEAUTIFUL BRINY SEA Founded in 1883 in Livermore, California, MARKETING INSTITUTE Started in 2011 by veteran Wente is the oldest continually operating Wild, natural, and sustainable—that is the restauranteur Suzi Sheffield (Atlanta), family winery in the United States with message of Megan Rider and the Alaska Beautiful Briny Sea creates small-batch an outstanding portfolio of fine wines. Seafood Marketing Institute. The Institute salt blends, sugars, and other culinary Wente Family Estates President Amy is a public-private partnership between products that are made with integrity, Hoopes (Sacramento/San Francisco) and the state of Alaska and the seafood sustainability, and “a whole lot of Associate Brand Manager Marie Dagnese industry to foster economic development love.” We picked up their mushroom (pictured above) were on hand to pour of a renewable natural resource. We were salt packets while enjoying bites of the Murrieta’s Well 2016 The Whip; able to taste the excellence in the product Campfire Cauliflower Soup and French Ravel & Stitch 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon; with a bite of Ghee-Seared Wild Alaska Picnic Soup with Lemon and Parsnips. and Wente Vineyards 2017 Estate Grown Salmon with Lemon, Feta, and Toasted www.beautifulbrinysea.com Chardonnay. Pistachios. www.wentefamilyestates.com www.alaskaseafood.org FB: WenteVineyards 18 Les Dames d’Escoffier International BREVILLE USA CAKEBREAD CELLARS CHEFWEAR Jessica Lyles and Carla Merrigan-Ward Since the founding of Cakebread Cellars in 1973, Represented by Karen Smith, the (pictured) represented Breville USA. Jack and Grande Dame Dolores Cakebread’s leading brand of culinary apparel was Carla demonstrated how to use the enduring commitment to quality and warm on display in a big way at this year’s brand’s new Smart Oven ® Pizzaiolo, hospitality is reflected in the outstanding wines luncheon. From finely made, durable which can reach up to 750 degrees they produce. This year at Conference, Dolores aprons to smart chef pants made for and, in just two-and-a-half minutes, showcased their 2016 Cakebread Cellars Pinot Noir women in mind, Chefwear had many produce Neapolitan-style Margherita Two Creeks, Anderson Valley; the 2015 Cakebread Dames shopping during lunch. They pizzas. The results were crispy, cheesy, Cellars Chardonnay Reserve, Carneros Napa Valley; also served up Bacon-Wrapped Pork and delicious—a great example of and the 2013 Mullan Road Cellars Red Blend. Tenderloin for a delicious bite on a roll. Breville’s line of kitchen appliances! www.cakebread.com www.chefwear.com www.breville.com FB: Cakebread Winery Twitter: @cakebreadwines

FAIRYTALE BROWNIES KERRYGOLD MAHATMA RICE/RICE SELECT Fairytale Brownies is a booming Ornua Foods North America, Inc. is Ireland’s Mahatma is the number-one selling rice brownie business that began in the largest exporter of Irish dairy products. Their brand in the U.S. with products like White brains of two kids on a playground. beloved brand Kerrygold delighted us at the Rice, Whole Grain Brown Rice, and Valencia Now they’re running a gourmet- luncheon and throughout Conference with (Short Grain). RiceSelect® includes many treat empire. Eileen Joy Spitalny creamy butter and an array of appealing cheeses, grain products such as Pearl Couscous and (San Francisco) is a co-founder, and like the Blarney Castle, Aged Cheddar with Irish Quinoa. The company’s website offers useful she treated the luncheon guests Whiskey, and Cashel Blue. We also spotted recipes with nutritional information, helpful and attendees at other Conference bottles of Kerrygold Irish Cream Liquor, one of videos, and a Recipe Club with coupons and events to table favors and an the best Irish creams on the market, all over promotions. During the Luncheon, Debbie assortment of her delicious brownies, the Conference, at the luncheon, and beyond. Wheeler (Houston) delighted us with samples cookies, and bars. Chicago Dame Lisa Miller (not shown), Jessica of Spice Trade Couscous and Chocolate Mattingly-Coffin (L), and Alexandra Vinci www.brownies.com Hazelnut Rice Custard. represented Ornua Foods. Twitter: @ftbrownies www.mahatmarice.com www.ornua.com FB: mahatmariceUSA; RiceSelect WINTER QUARTERLY 2019 19 NATIONAL PROCESSED RASPBERRY PLATE ROLAND FOODS COUNCIL Plate is the source of inspiration Roland was founded in 1934 and Organized in 2013, the NPRC set out to and menu ideas for professional imports more than 1,500 products from conduct nutrition research on the health and chefs around the country who fulfill North America, South America, Europe, wellness benefits of raspberries and promote the magazine’s mantra to “Take North Africa, Middle East, and Asia. the consumption of the processed fruit. Food Further.” It also supports the Creating and sustaining relationships We learned from Mary Kimbrough (Dallas) advancement and education of women with producers around the world, and guest raspberry farmers that frozen culinary professionals in the restaurant Roland believes that community is built raspberries hold 9 grams of fiber per cup industry and is proud to have its around the table. Roland’s culinary and provide 60 percent of our daily value of editor, Chandra Ram, and publisher, team member, Kiel Mariant, presented vitamin C! To taste the benefits, we sampled Susan Szymanski as active members Gochujang-Glazed Brussels Sprouts, a salad of Organic Young Greens, Candied of LDEI’s Chicago Chapter. A copy of Coconut Thai Rice Noodles with Lime and Almonds, Sheep’s Milk Feta, Raspberry Mojo Plate magazine was included in each Basil, and Curried Israeli Couscous Salad. Dressing, and pickled raspberries on top. Conference gift bag. www.rolandfood.com www.redrazz.org www.plateonline.com FB: RolandFoods.Page

STE. MICHELLE WINE ESTATES SUNNYLAND FARMS ZINGERMAN’S BAKEHOUSE Washington’s oldest winery was A multi-generational business, Sunnyland Zingerman's is an artisan bakery in Ann Arbor, built in 1912 and continues to win Farms grows gourmet nuts in Georgia. Michigan. Since 1992 they have created crusty accolades for their pioneering wines Their quality selection of cashews, breads, tasty pastries, delightful cakes and and New World innovations. At this pistachios, walnuts, and pecans and more. They offer classes for home bakers and year’s Conference, we enjoyed tasting pecan-related products, like oils and meal, ship baked goods to your door. We enjoyed many of their wines, including the can be ordered directly through their a tasty assortment during and after the Chateau Ste. Michelle 2016 Horse website. At the luncheon, their tastes luncheon; Zingerman's Amy Emberling (Ann Heaven Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc were a huge hit: Pecan Blue Cheese Arbor) and Pastry Manager Melissa Lesz were (Horse Heaven Hills), and Chateau Ste. Stuffed Figs and Rosemary Honey Pecan on hand Michelle 2014 Cold Creek Vineyard Ice Cream plus a sampling of mixed nuts. www.zingermansbakehouse.com Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). www.sunnylandfarms.com www.ste-michelle.com

20 Les Dames d’Escoffier International CHARLES WETMORE ERIC’S CABERNET SAUVIGNON CHARDONNAY 2014 2016

FAMILY OWNED. ESTATE GROWN. CERTIFIED SUSTAINABLE. LEARN MORE AT WENTEVINEYARDS.COM WENTE VINEYARDS. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 1466 © 2018 WENTE VINEYARDS.

WINTER QUARTERLY 2019 21 Marion Nestle RECEIVES THE PRESTIGIOUS GRANDE DAME AWARD Global Culinary Initiative Breakfast: “Native Foods, The Canoe Culture Rich Traditions, Inspired Cuisines!” The cedar canoe By CiCi Williamson Valerie Segrest, a Muckleshoot Native nutrition is central to the (Washington, D.C.) educator and coordinator of the Muckleshoot lives of the Pacific Food Sovereignty Project, spoke about the Cedar Northwest Native At a breakfast designed to showcase the culture Box Teaching Toolkit. It’s an educational resource Peoples; canoe of Pacific Northwest tribes, we were entertained featuring important native foods in Salish Country building is a deeply by traditional songs and drumming of the Muck- and the rich, cultural traditions surrounding them. spiritual under- leshoot Canoe Family. The Muckleshoot Tribe “The foods were selected because of their high taking. Since the is the only federally recognized tribe in King nutritional value, cultural significance, and rea- Northwest canoe- County and named for their prairie reservation. sonable availability. The toolkit includes a cedar culture revival in LDEI President Hayley Matson-Mathes bentwood box, cooking tongs, cooking rocks, 1989 (Washington (Hawaii) thanked Suzanne Brown (Atlanta) who display containers, teaching cards, and preserved state’s 100th birth- began the Global Culinary Initiative (GCI) ten samples of 13 native foods,” explained Valerie. years ago. Hayley introduced GCI Co-Chairs A few of the Native foods were nettles, camas day), language, re- Roberta Dyuff(St. Louis) and Susan Slack (lily with a nutritious, edible bulb), salal ber- galia, dance, song, (Charleston), who in turn thanked this year’s ries, huckleberries, cattails (for soup thickeners), and other cultural committee: Anita Lau (LA/OC); Margaret wild strawberries, and kelp (to pickle). Valerie aspects are upheld Happel Perry (NY); Teresa Farney (Colorado), concluded, “When the tide is out, the table is set. in each tribe or Cecilia Pozo Filetti (LA/OC) and Seattle Dames Many Native People continue to harvest clams, nation by a “canoe Martha Marino and Karen Binder. Martha oysters, and mussels, hunt, gather, and grow the family.” Each was a liaison to the Seattle Conference Commit- Native foods that have nourished their ancestors summer, a Tribal tee and helped to arrange many details of the for countless generations.” Canoe Journey breakfast. Karen masterminded the centerpieces Darren Jameson, a member of the Tsimshian unites thousands and organized a committee work party to fill Nation and Chef de Cuisine at Lisa Dupar & of Native Peoples. the birchbark vases with foraged huckleberry, Company, spoke about tribal potlatches that Long-distance hemlock, cedar, and other indigenous branches. feature wild indigenous foods. A native of British canoe travel Cecilia donated the salmon-themed cover art for Columbia, Darren reminisced about his child- teaches respect for the welcome packets, which included two GCI hood experiences of potlatch on the beach where traditions and for newsletters: “Honoring North America’s Native everyone brought a food offering, such as shellfish ancestor survival Cuisines,” and “The Beverage Issue.” The “Hello, and salmon that were wrapped in fresh kelp and skills, and it forges World!,” newsletter was created by Past Chair beach grasses then steamed in an alderwood box. bonds between the Sandy Hu (San Francisco) in 2014. “We would unwrap the cooked food and eat like generations. Breakfast incorporated Pacific Northwest ingre- royalty,” he said. Susan Slack, Editor. dients: cornbread with huckleberry jam, poached “Salmon are the crux of so many things that eggs on acorn cakes, roasted pumpkin hash, take place in this world. Whales, otters, bears, Dungeness crab, and Hollandaise sauce. Kerrygold and humans depend on salmon. One species donated butter for the tables. The unleavened connects everything. As soon as the Elwha River acorn cakes were an interesting native food to try. Dam that blocked migration was removed, Chef Darren Jameson also smoked 35 pounds of salmon returned immediately and everything had salmon—donated by Alaska Seafood Marketing— a resurgence. Maybe we don’t know what’s best. for everyone to enjoy. The elders had a special kind of knowledge.”

GCI program speakers Chef Darren Jameson and Valerie Segrest. In Northwest Native cultures, the bentwood box is made from a single red cedar plank that is steamed until pliable then bent; the two ends are pegged together. The watertight box is used as a canteen, for storage, and as a cooking ves- sel. It is Canada’s only indigenous cooking method. Photo: Susan Slack. Smoked salmon prepared by Chef Darren Jameson. Photo: Susan Slack. The Muckleshoot Canoe Family.

22 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Marion Nestle RECEIVES THE PRESTIGIOUS GRANDE DAME AWARD

By Anne Byrn (Nashville) duction, a B.A. in bacteriology, a Master’s in public children that she recognized the need to move health nutrition, and a Doctorate in molecular out of the lab and into the classroom teaching Internationally known “obesity warrior” and biology, as well as appearing in eight food and nutrition. “I loved it.” Marion taught nutrition social justice advocate Dr. Marion Nestle health documentary films and writing 10 books, to med students at the University of California- received the 2018 Grande Dame Award at the most recent being Unsavory Truth: How the San Francisco School of Medicine and moved the Seattle LDEI Conference Food Industry Skews the Science of What We Eat. to New York University (NYU) in 1988 to chair October 12, 2018. Marion, an “Throughout her career,” Marsha said, “Marion what was then the Department of Home Eco- authority on nutrition and pub- has positioned food as a social justice issue and nomics. She recently retired from NYU. lic health policy, was nominated has emphasized the difference in what the rich And yet choices in life, Marion revealed, for the award by her New York and poor eat. She also has highlighted the role weren’t something to which she was accustomed. Chapter. that food marketing plays in what we eat.” After Hers was a poor upbringing. “Values and prin- Outgoing President Hayley Marion was welcomed with much applause, she ciples substituted for money in my family.” In Matson-Mathes welcomed everyone to the shared her personal story and how she became college, she babysat to help pay tuition bills. banquet in the Renaissance Hotel ballroom known as a “food fighter,” someone dubbed the “At every point in my life, I did only what I where autumn-themed table arrangements and “obesity warrior” by Time magazine. could do and do the best with it,” she said. And the glowing Seattle city lights outside created a “I was a Depression-era baby of New York that wisdom stood her well. While observing in celebratory tone for the evening. “Aloha!” Hay- parents. I scrimped and saved to attend UC- the 1990s how the National Cancer Institute ley proclaimed, festooned with a multi-colored, Berkeley and get a Master’s in public health,” was talking about the dangers of cigarettes and floral lei on her head. said Marion. “I describe myself as a lapsed how tobacco companies marketed to children, Marsha Palanci (New York) walked to the nucleic acid enzymologist.” It was at Brandeis Marion wondered about the dangers of pro- podium to introduce Marion whose impressive when Marion was doing postdoc work manag- cessed foods and their effect on public health. résumé spans more than 40 years of public and ing a laboratory career and raising two small academic service, including a Phi Beta Kappa in- continued ON PAGE 24

WINTER QUARTERLY 2019 23 LAUNCHPOINT …LDEI Welcomes New Chapters in Savannah, Georgia and Paris, France By Deborah Mintcheff (New York) LDEI Past Secretary, 2018 The women I met in Savannah totally got what we are about and were excited about the possibil- ity of joining with women who would be supportive, develop LDEI Council of Delegates Meeting outreach initiatives in their community, and network. Once Submitted by Greg Jewell investment strategy. Mary Moore (Atlanta), chair of the they started building momen- The LDEI Council of Delegates 2018 LDEI Nominating Commit- tum, there was no stopping (COD) meeting was held on Saturday, tee, introduced the 2019 LDEI Board these amazing women. Martha October 13, 2018 as part of the Seattle of Directors and said she would stay Nesbitt, a long-time food editor, got the process Conference. Almost 100 delegates par- involved with the committee to work going. Past Legacy Awards winner Jovan Sage of ticipated in the annual gathering. on best practices, term limits, succession Sage’s Larder took over the reins and signed on as The COD has three main functions: planning, and leader identification. the chapter’s first president. This chapter is well on approval of bylaws changes, approval of The San Antonio Chapter has volun- the way with 20 talented women. new chapter charters, and approval of teered to host the 2021 Annual Confer- the LDEI budget. There were no bylaws ence, following Nashville in October “We are proud to join an international sister- changes this year and the charters for and New York in 2020. The Board hood of excellence in food and beverage. Our Paris and Savannah/Coastal Georgia will visit San Antonio this year to tour aim is to shine a light on the talented women were approved earlier in the year. potential Conference venues and meet that thrive in Savannah and line our Geor- LDEI Treasurer Sharon Olson (Chica- with the San Antonio Chapter. gia Coast. We are excited to build a dynamic go) presented the proposed break-event Each LDEI board member submitted chapter that can also lift up young budget, which included $574,000 in a report of accomplishments for the women and those just starting on income. The budget included additional year as part of the COD materials and their culinary path.” funds for branding/social media/website briefly reviewed the information as part as well as plans for a more aggressive Jovan Sage, President, Savannah/ of the presentations. Coastal Georgia Chapter.

The possibility of a chapter in Paris, France had long been on LDEI’s wish list. With a visit already planned, I met with Jane Bertch of La Cuisine Paris, who has been living there for over 20 years. We chatted about how to get women in the “City of Lights” to embrace joining LDEI. Once word got out, several Dames in the U.S. signed on to GRANDE DAME she emphasized, “really means a lot.” either join the chapter or be dual members, while The evening’s celebration was sponsored Jamie Schler, a former Philadelphia Dame who continued FROM PAGE 23 by Wente Family Estates, the oldest con- lives in France, worked hand-in-hand with Jane tinuously-operated, family-owned winery to complete the process. “I thought we should start paying at- in America, founded in 1883. Wente’s tention to the food marketing to kids,” president, Amy Hoopes, encouraged “Early on, long before creating this chapter, I she said. And that is why Marion wrote Dames to share their personal stories with was able to see the extraordinary network and the book called Food Politics. Her goals in each other, just as Grande Dame Marion community of the LDEI women in operation. the book were for the American Dietetic Nestle had just done. Sitting here overseas, it is a wonderful feel- Association to not distribute nutritional Hayley then returned to the podium data from food companies as their own, Carol Brock ing to know that we are now members of this and introduced Dame , also to address childhood obesity, and to lay wearing a lei, who modestly admitted that prestigious institution and the fabulous women the blame on highly processed foods from LDEI “has turned into quite something... within it. Thank you again for including me manufacturers instead of mothers. quite a legacy.” (and our small group of members) into the Marion said she feels “fortunate to be Hayley, who has logged 106,000 air LDEI family. I am personally very much looking living at a time when so many people are miles flying to 14 chapters during her forward to meeting all of the mem- interested in food” because “food is the tenure as president, closed the evening bers either here in Paris, there in the way to change the world and make it a and credited her successful year to the US, or somewhere in between. better place.” She is proud of LDEI and achievements of the Board that performed Jane Bertch, President, its members and how they speak up for as the Hawaiian saying, “like water flow- Paris Chapter health and social justice issues. This honor, ing in one direction.”

24 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Women & Wine The 2018 Legacy Awards Luncheon A Perfect Pairing By Toria Emas (Chicago) than ever about myself and my professional Prior to the Legacy Awards successes—I'll forever surround myself with presentation, Amy Hoopes, Why the Legacy Awards? Not only is it the right passionate, driven, like-minded individuals such President, Wente Family thing to do, LDEI is a treasure trove of talented as LDEI.” Estates moderated a panel women who are able to positively affect the future Emma Nemechek, pastry chef with the Omni discussion by Powerful of culinary arts, fine beverage, and hospitality. Interlocken Resort and Spa in Broomfield, Women in Wine. Wente LDEI consists of over 2200 dedi- Colorado enhanced her skills at Cake Works Family Estates has sponsored cated women whose mentorship in Honolulu, Hawaii and was embraced by the the Legacy Awards skills can enhance the future of Hawaii Dames. Emma felt that the experience luncheon for years and has the industry and leave a legacy of made “such a huge impact on me, and I will hosted over ten recipients. powerful, creative, and innovative TM always be grateful to have been a part of a gath- Wente’s #MAKETIME women leaders. ering of an amazing group of women leaders. was a consistent theme Six exceptionally talented were The Seattle LDEI Conference 2018 has touched during the presentations by chosen to receive the awards this year. Detailed me in a way that now I want to constantly strive Marie Dagnese, Associate reports of their experiences will be featured to be better at what I do.” Brand Manager, Wente in the Spring Issue of the Quarterly. Elizabeth The 2018 recipients are women of distinction Family Estates; Kari Leitch, Teuwen, culinary instructor at Sur La Table in and could potentially become Dames. The com- Senior Vice President of Bethesda, Maryland experienced New England mittee thanks the Dames and host businesses Communications & Corporate Farms, Fishing, and Food Hubs. Elizabeth and especially The Julia Child Foundation for Affairs at Ste. Michelle stated, “This experience reintroduced me to the Gastronomy and the Culinary Arts for agreeing Wine Estates, and Dolores place I grew up through the eyes of food produc- to stimulate the career of this year’s six deserving Cakebread, Co-Founder ers, chefs, and entrepreneurs and has given me women. The recipients listened to their hosts and Senior Vice President the confidence and support to pursue a new and Director of Ambiance and will carry forward the wisdom and skills path in my culinary career.” at Cakebread Cellars. gained during their life-altering experiences. Pastry Chef Helen Vass comes from Glasgow, #MAKETIMETM encourages Barbara Hanley will continue to chair the Scotland, and spent her time at the James Bread people to “choose less Legacy Awards Committee next year. Barbara House in New York and bonded with the New screen time and choose said “What a gift getting to work on the Legacy York Dames. Helen said “My LDEI Legacy ex- more hanging out time! Program is for me: great committee, applicants perience was life changing: it opened my eyes to Life looks and sounds a lot who are changing this world for the better, and a new culture, met new people, and I’ve created richer in person.” Wente generous hosts who are committed to the spirit a link with NYC that will stay strong across the Family Estates believes in the of LDEI.” Julie Chernoffwill help coordinate Atlantic Ocean for years to come!” importance of making time the committee in 2019 and shared her reasons Ayja Alvarez immersed herself in the world of for each other and the things for joining the committee: “After observing and wine at Wente Family Estates. In Ayja’s words: that matter. All three panelists admiring the strong Legacy Awards winners at “My experience at Wente gave me a thorough and highlighted the importance of several LDEI Conferences, I offered to organize in-depth view into many aspects of winery opera- mentorship, listening to staff, a Chicago experience and host a Legacy win- tions, from viticulture and winemaking, to busi- being flexible about tasks ner a few years, and it was a terrific and positive ness and logistics. The visit reaffirmed my interest and work hours and setting opportunity for our Chapter. I truly appreciate in pursuing further education in viticulture.” and implementing goals. Kari the work that goes into creating these amazing As a culinary recipient, Katrina Jazayeri traveled Leitch said it’s time to give programs, and the thoughtful process of choos- to New Orleans to work at Coquette and Eater. women a voice and the skill ing the winners. I just wanted to be part of that, Katrina is a food activist and co-founder of Juliet set to make fast decisions and have a chance to work with some Dames in Boston, one of Bon Appetit’s 50 Best New Res- and to be able to implement I truly admire from many different chapters.” taurants in America. Juliet is tip-free and pays a the decisions and follow Please contact either Barbara or Julie if you have living wage to all employees. through. Communication is questions about the Legacy Awards includ- Sarah Pierre, owner of 3 Parks Wine Shop in key to keeping a business ing hosting, judging, or spreading the word to Atlanta, delved into the wine experience at Ste. growing and flourishing. increase the applicant pool. Michelle Winery. She said "I feel more confident Nothing can be taken for granted. A good leader will listen to her employees. The new generation of staff is interested in a balanced work and home life. #MAKETIMETM encourages co-workers to save time for hobbies, relaxation, family, and those who care about issues and people that are important to each individual. Attending conference is one way to meet like-minded women and to listen, learn, and share what is important in life. By Toria Emas.

WINTER QUARTERLY 2019 25 Dames Enjoyed Thrills, Grills, and Chills Under the Big Top! By Lori Willis Catering and Nancy Donier of spirit shaken with fresh lemon, the wooden-beam structure (St. Louis) Kaspars Catering & Events. Lisa garden-scented syrup, and stirred transforms into Emerald City Dupar Catering created Whis- with magical blue butterfly pea under the ambient lighting as Ladies and gentlemen, Dames key Sour Glazed Beef Skewers, tea that turned purple in the nets are dragged, pulled taut, and dudes, step right up for a spicy chicken sandwiches, root drink. Rosemary, flowers, and and anchored for the show. daring culinary feat never before vegetable puffs, mini crab cakes, other beautiful and fragrant The Kirkland's have been in the attempted under the Big Top! and mac 'n cheese in flaky pastry edible garnishes were the final trapeze business for nine years Set in the city's trendy ware- shells. Kaspars added the "Around touch. (I dare you to try this one and Kari says proudly, "Three house district in SODO (South of the World" lamb trio. It included at home folks!) former students are now working Downtown), the Seattle Chapter Scottish Lamb, Leek, Cabbage, And, then there was the aptly as circus performers." mastered a hospitality, culinary and Barley Soup; Lamb and named Emerald City Trapeze "Emerald City is," she says, "... and beverage “three-ring circus” Autumn Vegetable Curry with show, where hearts raced and one of the only indoor facili- event at Emerald City Trapeze Basmati Rice; and Lamb, Brown breaths were suspended for ties of its kind to have 'thrown Arts, the premiere destination Rice, and Feta Dolmas with Mint seconds at a time as perform- a quad,' (a flyer manages four for flying trapeze, aerial arts, Tzatziki. The menu was rounded ers traversed the air several feet somersaults midair before being and circus classes. The exciting out with popcorn, assorted pas- above the net. caught successfully). Only in the event space was the setting for the tries, and mini desserts. According to co-owner Kari world of the Big Top could that Brock Circle reception as well as The spotlight was, quite literally, Kirkland, the unique and oh- be a good thing! Kari's passion- the culminating dinner event of on Seattle Dame Kathy Casey's so-hip event space both trains ate observation of the couples the 2018 LDEI Conference. Liquid Kitchen team as they and entertains on the trapeze, impact on trapeze artistry, also Dames and guests had ringside served up excitement in the form and it actually started in midair! holds true for the evening, "We seats as high-flying trapeze art- of a Dame-delicious, signature Kari first met her husband and brought the magic." ists displayed amazing mental drink she called, "Oui Chef." It business partner when she took And, indeed, Dames carrying and physical strength as they was named for the toque-topped, a flying class. She said, "He smiling, umbrella fellas in their entertained guests above and paper chef and ringmaster (Kathy ‘caught' me and a year later we purple drinks; juggling plates of below the nets. had been holding the little drink were married!" They soon went food; jewels and dresses spar- Traditional circus fare was picks for just the right occasion) into the business they both kling in the undulating lights of deliciously reimagined by Dames who coaxed a lemon rind boat loved. Housed in the former the Big Top—now, that was the Lisa Dupar of Lisa Dupar across a pear-infused botanical Canal Boiler Works building, "Greatest Show on Earth!"

26 Les Dames d’Escoffier International POST-CONFERENCE TOURS The Hops & Vines Tour of Eastern Washington By Olga Boikess instructor Kate Ruffing, over (Washington, D.C.) 40 percent of the world’s beer hops are grown here. And, since Seattle Co-Organizer/Dame we visited at harvest time, we Naomi Kakiu- got to taste fresh hop beer. Kate chi welcomed us explained that this beer must be Top Photo: L-R: Olga Boikess, Antoinette Benjamin, Mary Kimbrough, to the tour bus brewed within 36 hours from Irene Moore, Toni Manning, JT and Pam Montgomery of Chukar with delicious the hops being picked in the Cherries, Naomi Kakiuchi, Beth Pav, Mara Papatheodorou. ham and cheese fields—it’s a “dance of timing.” clever riffs on “beer food”— pastries from We learned fascinating details cally punching down the “cap” beef tacos, pork belly, and a Leslie Mackie’s about hops: that it is a pine, of grape skins, seeds, stems, and burger for our lunch. Macrina Bakery, and we set off not a vine, and that it can only pulp that rises to the top of the One of Washington State’s for a fascinating exploration of be grown in limited climatic vat when new grapes begin their pioneering women in wine, Eastern Washington’s agricul- conditions. We were encour- fermenting process. A generous Kay Simon and her husband tural economy. Spectacular fall aged to rub various packets of tasting of their vintages followed. Clay Mackey, welcomed us to Patricia foliage and mountain scenery dried hops to discover their Next we visited with their boutique Chinook Winery. Gelles turned to farmland as we pulled different aromas—just as brew- and her husband David Grapes had just been harvested into Provisions Market in Yaki- ers do when they are sourcing at Red Mountain’s famed Klip- allowing us to have hands-on ma for a culinary-focused Hop hops. Provisions Manager/ sun Vineyard. As she explained experiences in small-batch & Brew School ®. As we were Chef Lindsay Park provided continued ON PAGE 33 to learn from our remarkable winemaking, including physi-

Dames Do Canada—A City & Country Tour Celebrates the Cuisine of British Columbia By Susan Fuller Public Market—where indoor Slack (Charleston) stalls showcase a cornucopia of locally sourced foods and global Twenty Dames and guests specialties. There we visited boarded an early-morning Edible Canada, “the world’s charter bus at largest selection” of Canadian- the Renaissance made, artisan food products. Hotel, October In the market’s courtyard, we 14, for a two- grazed on local charcuterie, day adventure cheeses, artisan breads, and in Vancouver Okanagan wines while enjoying with the Brit- the fall foliage enhanced by the ish Columbia Dames. Cate brilliant blue sky and glistening British Columbia Dames, Front: Lee Murphy, Stephanie Jaeger, Becky Paris Simson and Karen Dar Woon, English Bay where ferry boats Turner, Cate Simpson, Dawn Doucette, Jenice Yu. Back: Tina Hill (kneeling), our hosts during the three-hour chugged by. We hopped on a Rhonda Pederson, Shelome Bouvette, Cindy Evetts, Mireille Sauve, Ann Kirsebom, Jane Ruddick, Shannon Washbrook, Karen Dar Woon, Margaret trip, served breakfast-on-the- mini ferry to travel to chic Yale- Chisholm, Marina Knutson, Mary Wallace Poole. Photo: Judy Rusignuolo. go from Macarina Bakery town and Provence Marinaside, featuring brioche filled with a popular French Mediterra- national and First Nations art- ley. An entire afternoon would ham, Gruyère, and Parmesan- nean restaurant and wine bar works throughout the floors. not suffice to fully explore this béchamel. owned by Alexandra Quaglia Lise is profiled in “Women in “culinary Disneyland.” Arriving at Granville Island, and her husband, Executive Hospitality,” in the 2016 sum- We dined at The Pear Tree home to culinarians, artists, Chef Jean-Francis Quaglia. mer Quarterly, page 11. Restaurant in Burnaby, a and marine activities, we We enjoyed a rosé wine tasting Late afternoon, we visited preeminent dining destination toured the impressive Pacific with Pissaladière, and a medley the famed 1,800-square-foot owned by LDE International Institute of Culinary Arts with of marinated olives, tomatoes, Gourmet Warehouse owned Board member Stephanie Chef Julian Bond—vice-pres- and bocconcini. by Caren McSherry, a found- Jaeger and her husband, ident and chief operating of- At the Listel Hotel, in the er of the Vancouver Chapter. Executive Chef Scott Jaeger, ficer—and Chef Tim Ellison, heart of downtown Vancouver, During a tour, we sipped whose distinguished résumé director of operations. They we received a warm welcome sparkling Evolve Pink Effer- includes Captain of Team led us on a walking tour of the from manager Lise Magee. vescence (A pinot blanc and Canada in the Culinary island to the sprawling, “temple A leader in sustainability, the Merlot blend) from Evolve continued ON PAGE 33 of foods,”—Granville Island boutique hotel displays inter- Cellars in the Okanagan Val-

WINTER QUARTERLY 2019 27 CHAPTER PROGRAMS Eagranie Yuh (British Columbia) ANN ARBOR | ATLANTA | AUSTIN | BIRMINGHAM | BOSTON | BRITISH COLUMBIA | CHARLESTON | CHARLOTTE & THE WESTERN CAROLINAS CHICAGO | CLEVELAND | COLORADO | DALLAS | GREATER DES MOINES | HAWAII | HOUSTON | KANSAS CITY | KENTUCKY | LONDON LOS ANGELES/ORANGE COUNTY | MEXICO | MIAMI | MINNESOTA | MONTEREY BAY | NASHVILLE | NEW ORLEANS | NEW ENGLAND | NEW YORK PALM SPRINGS | PARIS, FRANCE | PHILADELPHIA | PHOENIX | PORTLAND | SACRAMENTO | SAN ANTONIO | SAN DIEGO SAN FRANCISCO | SAVANNAH/COASTAL GEORGIA | SEATTLE | SOUTH FLORIDA | ST. LOUIS | WASHINGTON, D.C.

ATLANTA Natasha Cary gardens, added compost, and planted seeds and transplants On October 1, we gathered at the Atlanta History Cen- suitable for fall and winter growing season. This was our third ter to tour its newest exhibit, Barbecue Nation, and enjoy annual garden refurbish for this community, and they have food provided by Jim-‘N-Nick’s Bar-B-Q. According to the been our Green Tables recipient for the last two years. Atlanta History Center website, “The exhibition explores how barbecue has come to claim an enduring place at the BIRMINGHAM Martha Johnston American table, and how it connects us to cultures around Our chapter was thrilled to sponsor and introduce a food- the world, in addition to traditions, history, and the future. related documentary, Michelin Stars: Tales from the Kitchen, at The exhibition includes a wide array of artifacts, images, and the 20th annual Sidewalk Film Festival. In August, book club oral histories from restaurants, festivals, community gather- members discussed What We Eat When We Eat Alone (Gibbs ings, and archives and museums from across the country. Smith, 2009) by Deborah Madison. Barbecue Nation includes historic photos and '50s and '60s advertising images (including an ad for the astonishing-in- retrospect Armour Star Ribs in a Can), and features cook- books, postcards, menus, place settings, and other artifacts from iconic barbecue joints. Vintage grills demonstrate the evolution of backyard cooking, from trench to brick pit to mobile cooker. Among them: a 1948 Char-Broil Wheelbar- row Picnic Cooker, a 1965 Weber kettle, and a Japanese kamado brought home by a U.S. serviceman in the 1970s L-R: Dame Susan Swagler, scholarship award recipient Sydney Smith, and Dame Brittany Garrigus, Satterfield’s Pastry Chef, prepare (Big Green Egg cites “ancient cookers” from China and homemade biscuits and pear jam at Pepper Place Market. Japan in this style as a design inspiration). Also on view is Dames Sherron Goldstein and Rebel Negley team up for a cooking President Dwight D. Eisenhower's GE PartioCart, a high- demonstration at the market. end, dual-fuel cooker trimmed in turquoise that he fired up at his retirement home in Palm Springs, California. A more Birmingham Dames’ takeover of Pepper Place Market spot- contemporary eye-catcher is the 13-foot-long “Space Shuttle lighted the top women in food during the month-long event. BBQ Pit” created by Houston-based Gator Pit of Texas.” Weekly in September, Dames presented seasonal recipes, shared samples, and talked about LDEI. AUSTIN Kendall Antonelli Dames also made time to judge the Literacy Council’s Junior In September, we held our annual fundraiser, En Garde, at Board’s Kickin’ Chicken Wing competition. And as part of the zero-waste Barr Mansion countryside venue. The event our outreach efforts, several Dames went to the Community featured culinary battles Food Bank of Central Alabama for a day. The food bank serves among eight female 12 counties and works with 240 agencies to help people in chefs and included The need. Dames sorted foods in the warehouse after an orienta- Macaron Smackdown, tion with new chapter member Kathryn Strickland, executive Paella Pair Off and director of the Community Food Bank. Finally, a reception at Chopped Beef Battle. The Gardens Café celebrated our nine new members. Guests voted for their Southern Soirée, our major fundraiser, was held October 7 at favorites and were also Jones Valley Teaching Farm in downtown Birmingham. The able to test their wine menu was a Southern interpretation of some classic Auguste Es- tasting skills in a "Beat coffier recipes, reimagined and prepared by a handful of talented Birmingham Dames. The sponsorship and ticket sales teams the Somm" competi- Paella Pair-Of Champions at En Garde tion featuring two of 2018. Photo: Tess Cagle. exceeded their goals. Our public relations and marketing team our member somme- put together an extensive social media, online, and newspaper/ liers. Our silent auction included a forty-bottle lot of wine, magazine plan that resulted in extensive coverage for the event each bottle donated by a different Dame with a personalized and positioned Les Dames as the organization that empowers message. Additionally, we announced and honored our six women in the food industry. scholarship and stipend recipients for 2018. For our 15th anniversary, we gave out over $15,000—our highest amount BOSTONLucille Giovino to date. Recipients will be finishing culinary school, pursuing Robin Cohen’s successful career in computer technology did advanced cheesemaking and beekeeping learning opportuni- not deter her from transitioning to her new endeavor: creat- ties, studying and sitting for first- and advanced-level som- ing and manufacturing a prolific line of new and tasty jams melier exams, and working towards teaching nutrition classes and jellies. Our intrepid group of Dames and guests trekked in Spanish. En Garde 2018 raised over $23,000 for our next to her store and thoroughly enjoyed listening to Robin talk scholarship cycle. about her genuine love of working with fruits and berries. It On October 6, LDEI Austin joined forces with non-profit all started years ago while watching her Aunt Jenny. Now, with Green Corn Project to refurbish food gardens at Posada Es- her company Doves and Figs, her intent is to concentrate on peranza, a local housing community for immigrant women selling her products, which are made from New England fruit. with children. We weeded and cleaned out their existing We sampled them on scones, sandwiches, and cookies, as well 28 Les Dames d’Escoffier International as custom-blended teas that we made. As the evening pro- ceeded, Robin and her staff brought us through a small- batch canning L-R: Robin Cohen, Jen Verrill, Lisa Monteforte, workshop where Family Fun Fest Silent Auction: L-R: Suzanne Wallace, scholarship we learned to make Joan Sweeney, a Doves and Figs employee, Miriam Lobenstine, and a Doves and Figs employee. Owner recipient Lauren Furey, and Lisa Buzzelli. Grande Dame Nathalie Dupree cranberry apple Robin Cohen festively displays a sample of her jams. and Chapter President Jen Kulick. Photos: Susan Slack. chutney—just in Photos: Lucille Giovino. time for holiday gift ice-cold beer, and nitro cold-brew coffee quenched the thirst of making. And, lucky us, the store was closed to the public, enabling the crowd in the hot afternoon sun. us to have a private shopping experience to splurge on purchasing But the true star of the afternoon was the picnic basket farm a variety of unique items. lunch created by Charleston’s LDEI chefs. Picnic baskets were filled with a feast of Dame-made charcuterie, pimento cheese, BRITISH COLUMBIAEagranie Yuh potato salad, chicken salad, coleslaw, crackers, cookies, brownies, In September the chapter, plus eight of Canada's top chefs, and topped off with a hunk of freshly baked French bread. All that welcomed 100 guests to a long-table dinner at the Four Seasons was required was to grab a cold beverage and a picnic table, and sit Hotel Vancouver to honor Diane Clement—a former Dame, not back to enjoy a delightful afternoon on the farm. to mention restauranteur, author, athlete, television host, speaker, and Olympian. The chapter’s premier fund- CHICAGOCarla Williams raiser typically nets more than $30,000 for September 24, Chicago Dames were treated to a discussion of spi- scholarships, as well as Project CHEF and ral-bound community cookbooks at newly opened Twain restau- Growing Chefs!, two organizations we sup- rant. The husband-and-wife team of chef-owner Tim Graham and port as part of our Green Tables program. sommelier-mixologist-owner Rebekah Graham have an extensive Past recipients of the culinary icon award collection of these books, and several were on display. Stacey Ballis include Julia Child, Lidia Bastianich, and moderated the conversation, which involved insights into why Vancouver’s Bruno Marti. community cookbooks were produced, and why they are so impor- Chef Bruno also donated items from his tant in the culinary history of this country. The restaurant, a love iconic, now-shuttered La Belle Auberge to letter to the foodways of the Midwest, was inspired in part by these the chapter’s second annual culinary garage cookbooks. “When I cook these dishes, my hands are reaching sale, which raised approximately $7,500. back through time to touch [the] hands…that made these books, Other donors were James Barber’s estate, During the post- that cooked these recipes.” Tim said. Rebekah spoke about how the as well as Nicky Major and other chapter conference Canadian books influence her work developing cocktail recipes. “They often members. Thanks to Susan Mendelson tour, Dame Jenice Yu of don’t have many beverages listed in the books, maybe a few non- Fresh Ideas Start Here alcoholic punches. But they have a lot of jam and jelly recipes… (The Lazy Gourmet) for hosting what we shares her cold-smoked hope will be an annual event. BC Salmon, Black Cod which is very similar to making syrups for flavoring cocktails, so In October, we held our board meeting Indian Candy, and that became my jumping-off point for some of the cocktails.” at Kristen Needham’s Sea Cider Farm & Maple Wild Salmon Dames were then treated to wine and cocktails, including ham and Indian Candy with cheese crostini on house-baked rye, fishcakes with sour cream and Ciderhouse on Vancouver Island, followed visiting Dames at Vista by a walk/talk/sip inreach event. We were D’oro Farms. Photo: Lee dill, and ethereal vanilla ice cream that was being hand-churned pleased to welcome LDEI Legacy Award Murphy. while the discussion was occurring. “These recipes have names at- Winner Ayja Alvarez, of Victoria, BC, to tached to each one,” Tim said, “What gets a signature? Art. Music. the event. This is the second year in a row that a BC resident has Poetry. Those are the things that people attach their name to in an received a Legacy Award. Post-Conference, Dames Do Canada! important way. That is how I think of these recipes.” saw 20 Dames taking in our waterfront scenery and nature. There were tours of Granville Island and Stanley Park, a chocolate tour, CLEVELAND Elaine Cicora wines and dinner at Stephanie Jaeger’s The Pear Tree, and an open Members of the Cleveland Chapter gathered in September for day at Chapter President Lee Murphy’s bucolic Vista D’Oro farm. our annual meeting, which included the election of new officers, a new group photo by Beth Segal, and a superb dinner by Carmella CHARLESTON Danielle Wecksler Fragassi at her beloved Italian restaurant, La Campagna. Chapter The Charleston Dames gathered in early October under a warm members elected Beth Davis-Noragon (president), Britt Culey Indian summer sun to celebrate the chapter’s inaugural Family Farm Fest fundraiser. Hosted on the farm of local farmers Helen and Joseph Fields, the event was a fundraiser for the annual scholarship fund, as well as for our community Charity Liaison Partner, Earth Heart Growers. The lively event included a bluegrass band playing throughout the afternoon, wagon rides around the farm, an artisan marketplace featuring local Dames, and a Silent Auction with curated Charles- ton experiences. A balloon artist, a jump castle, and face paint- ing for the kids added just the right amount of fun to this family L-R: Back row: Cynthia Schuster Eakin, Laura Campbell, MartyNagele, friendly afternoon. Maria Isabella, Jackie Bebenroth, Marcie Barker, Melissa McClelland, Marla Monzo-Holmes. Middle row: Laura Campbell, Rosemary Hurst, Carmella In true Dame fashion, there was plenty to eat and drink as well! Fragassi, Bev Shaffer, Carol Hacker, Terry Thomsen, Paula Hershman, Beth A roundup of local food trucks offered everything from Carolina Schreibman Gehring. Front row: Beth Segal, Elaine Cicora, Britt Culey, Beth BBQ to locally crafted popsicles. Chilled rosé and sparkling wine, Davis-Noragon, Shara Bohach. Photo: Beth Segal Photography. WINTER QUARTERLY 2019 29 (vice president), Shara Bohach (treasurer), and Elaine Cicora duced the film. Proceeds (secretary) to the 2018–2019 board. Also on the board are past will benefit the Food Bank Co-Presidents Cynthia Schuster Eakin and Marty Nagele; and of Iowa and Eat Greater Bev Shaffer and Carol Hacker, who sit in an advisory position. Des Moines, a local non- In October, our chapter made a good showing at the 2018 LDEI profit that facilitates and Conference in Seattle, where we were represented by Beth, Brit, builds connections in the Elaine, Carol and, of course, Bev, who is now First Vice President area's food system. of the LDEI Board. And because the 2018 Grand Prize and Print Are you up on your food Winning Foodie Fight team are all smiles, Jean Groben Lisa L-R: Elizabeth Chawla, Kate Willer, Susan Category winner of the M.F.K. Fisher Awards for Excellence in trivia? , Madorsky, Lisa Holderness-Brown, Kelsey Culinary Writing was Cleveland’s own Elaine Cicora, this year’s Holderness Brown, Sarah McCreight. Photo: Nancy Byal. Conference seemed just a little more special. Pritchard, and Kate Will- er planned a pop-up event to celebrate the release of Joyce Lock’s DALLAS Lisa Stewart tenth-anniversary edition of the addictive Foodie Fight game. Kate, On September 23, the chapter held its board transition meet- the general manager at Bubba restaurant, got us settled in with ing and new member induction dinner at Rosewood Mansion on a delicious spread of Southern appetizers and cocktails. Then we Turtle Creek. During the meeting, the outgoing board introduced split into two competing teams to test our knowledge. With over the incoming board: President Lisa Lavender, First Vice President 1,000 possible questions on topics ranging from culinary science Suzanne Felber, Second Vice President Robin Plotkin, Trea- and celebrity chefs to food history and exotic cuisine, it was a lively surer Andrea Gates, and Secretary Roberta Villaverde, as well as night of friendly competition. Tiffany Derry and Oona Settembre (philanthropy), Lisa Stew- art (PR/LDEI liaison), Dena Shaskan (programs and Culinary HAWAII Global Initiative), and Micheline Hynes (ambassador of caring). Hawaii Chef/Dame Following the board meeting, we lit candles and presented LDEI Michelle Karr-Ueoka, bracelets to new member inductees. Between the cocktail recep- MW Restaurant, tion and dinner, there was the task of trying to wrangle the Dallas Honolulu, celebrated Dames for a group photo, which was not easy, as the excitement the restaurant’s fifth anniversary of coming together in celebration made it hard to sit in one place. September 23. It is After the photo, we then took our seats in the dining room for the operated by Michelle’s husband/partner Chef Wade Ueoka. The event four-course dinner and wine pairing. Knowing that our upcoming benefitted the Hawaii Culinary Education Foundation and featured 19 scholarship fundraiser would take place on March 3, it seemed to chefs who formerly worked together, including Chef/Dame Abigale be the hot topic for discussion, as many thoughts and ideas filled Langlas of Cakeworks. Seen in the photo, L-R: Dames Joan Namkoong, Abigale Langlas, Hayley Matson-Mathes, and Michelle Karr-Ueoka. Photo: the conversations. Mike Mathes.

KANSAS CITY Jenny Vergara The Kansas City Chapter celebrated its 20th anniversary as part of LDEI with food, fun, and fellowship by hosting a Diner en Blanc party. Twenty ladies, dressed in all white, did not let a little rain stop the party that was graciously hosted by Kathy Denis in her gorgeous backyard garden, and planned by Judy Ensminger and Marti Rolofson. With many of the original legacy members present, glasses were raised for a champagne toast to the continued success of the chapter, and after that the party really began. The celebration ended with a croquembouche made with both cream

L-R: Dallas Chapter incoming President Lisa Lavender and Past President Margie McAlister. Dallas Chapter new members: L-R: April Barney-Pouncy, Erin Booke, Kim Martin, Lindsey Miller, and Fana Yohannes, and Bronwen Weber (not pictured). 2018-2019 Dallas Chapter. Some members aren’t pictured. Photos: Lisa Stewart Photography.

GREATER DES MOINESNancy Byal The Des Moines Chapter hosted its first-ever fundraising event on September 13. The film screening and discussion was organized by Sue Hoss, Elizabeth Chawla, Juliana Hale, Lisa LaValle, and Jamie Gorey. Des Moines Dames and guests first enjoyed hors d’oeuvres and cocktails prepared by Cherry Madole’s Tangerine Food Company, followed by a viewing of The Starfish Throwers (along with ample free popcorn!), a documentary produced by Jes- Over 20 Kansas City Dames, many of them legacy, toasted the chapter’s 20th Anniversary in 2018. A toast to Kansas City! Clockwise from left: se Roesler, an Emmy and James Beard award-winning filmmaker. Mary Berg, Renee Kelly, Jane Zieha, Kathy Dennis, Chris Becicka, Donna The film tells the stories of three people, worlds apart, who strive to Cook, Judy Ensminger, Martha Morgan, Vicki Johnson, Kathy Moore, fight hunger in their communities despite constant reminders that Judith Fertig, Mary Merola, Kristie Sigler, and Roxanne Wyss. Photo: Jenny hunger is too big for one person to solve. We especially enjoyed Vergara. Last summer, the Kansas City Chapter celebrated the homecoming hearing firsthand from Jesse, who discussed why and how he pro- of LDEI Past President Hayley Matson-Mathes. Photos: Jenny Vergara. 30 Les Dames d’Escoffier International puffs and French macarons to honor the occasion, which guests enjoyed as they reminisced about the chapter's humble beginnings in 1998 to the successful launch in 2017 of their first scholarship fundraiser, called Supperclub, an evening of jazz, food, and fund- raising. Here’s to 20 years of LDEI in Kansas City! Hayley Matson-Mathes, LDEI past president, visited the Kansas City Chapter last summer on one of her many chapter visits. The Kansas City Dames welcomed her back to the chapter she once called home, with a farm-to-table feast catered by the members that Country songbird Sylvia Ganier and her sister Dames from "Music City, celebrated both the harvest season and the fundraiser, Supperclub U.S.A." gave Seattle Conference attendees a rousing preview of the 2018. We honored her Hawaii home by presenting all of the ladies Nashville Conference in October. Photo: Susan Slack. with a lei to wear. Melissa Corbin (Corbin in the Dell); Rachel Maxwell Carpenter (Good Flower Farm); Tasha French Lemley (Chai Wallah LLC); KENTUCKYJudy Hollis Trish Mathisen (Nashville State Community College). On September 24, the Kentucky Chapter hosted an evening with Last September, our chapter was honored by the Phila Hach Virginia Willis sponsored by Sullivan University, Culinary Educa- Awards. Les Dames Nashville was thrilled to win “The Ruth,” tion Center with co-sponsorship by Willett Distillery. Dame-chef which is the award category designated for an organization that instructors at Sullivan University, along with culinary students, uses food and cooking to empower women seeking a better future. prepared delicious appetizers and a dinner buffet using recipes The Phila Hach Awards commemorate and honor the life, legacy, selected from Virginia’s new cookbook, Secrets of the Southern Table and spirit of Nashville’s Phila Rawlings Hach. (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2018). We began the evening with a cocktail demonstration by Britt Kulsveen, president of Willett Dis- NEW YORKBeth Allen tillery, and her team. The bourbon and the cocktails were delicious What’s the next big bite for 2019? Simple foods that taste deli- and got our party rolling. Followed by a lecture and demonstration cious and are easy to make. That’s the next big food trend as by Virginia, the group was enthused and ready for her tasty recipes presented at LDNY’s 2018 The Next Big Bite on October 1 at the to be served. The evening featured more than a dozen dishes from New York Law School. Joe Yonan, food editor of The Washington Virginia’s book including black pepper cream cheese biscuits with Post and master of ceremonies, guided 300 attendees gathered Kentucky country ham and pear mostarda, Kentucky soup beans in Manhattan and many with chow chow, roasted leg of lamb with Mediterranean spices, more on live-streaming Mexican chocolate pudding, and blackberry bourbon dumplings. chapter events in Kentucky, Many thanks Virginia, Britt, and Sullivan University. Nashville, Phoenix, and Des Moines. On cooking, MIAMI Ellen Kanner Jacques Pépin and Gesine Old ways and new Dames came together at the Miami Chapter’s Bullock-Prado said people recent annual meeting. We continued our happy tradition of wel- will be less afraid to dig coming new members at the home of Laura Monges. We also ush- in and cook. On eating, The Next Big Bite! Front: Gesine Bullock- ered in a new slate of officers. Outgoing President Alejandra Bigai Carla Hall and Molly Yeh Prado and Jacques Pepin. Back: Lettie shared how innovation will Teague, Dame Carla Hall, Molly Yeh, and announced the results of the election: President Monica Ciffoni, Dame Dorie Greenspan. Speakers not Vice President Alissa Frice, Secretary Barbara Kamp, and Treasurer yield more new foods like pictured: Natalka Burian, Christina Tosi. Thi Squire. Then, of course, we bonded over food and wine (anoth- aquafaba and impossible Photo: Jean G. Bortner. er happy tradition). As ever, the Miami Chapter ushered out 2018 burgers; buying ingredients with the festivities of our annual holiday party, but we also mixed it online, like sumac and za’atar, will change what we cook; and lard up. We added a splash of excitement with a chapter-exclusive master and cooking with real fat will get new respect. On drinking, Lettie class in French cuisine taught by Michelin-starred Chef Gilles Epié. Teague and Natalka Burian predicted that craft beer will lose its This year, we look forward to spicing it up with our delicious blend fizz, interest in orange wine will fade, and unknown wine varietals of old traditions and new ideas. will emerge from surprising locations like New Jersey and Michi- gan. Finally, on craving, Dorie Greenspan and Christina Tosi said NASHVILLE Paulette Licitra that baking will get simpler (pro tips: learn the rules first, then At the Nashville Chapter annual meeting, held on the veranda have fun breaking them) and that people will crave comfort-food of The Hermitage Hotel, we awarded culinary professionals in the classics with unexpected ingredients to make them pop. The event community with twelve scholarships totaling $7,500. Funds will raised over $46,000. Sponsors included Kerrygold, Wolf Gourmet, help advance culinary careers; help with Handsome Brook Farm, Niman Ranch, Anolon, Kitchen Chat, purchases of needed equipment and Melitta, Wüsthof, The Elysian Collection, and Erdington brands. farm repairs; pay tuition for continuing education; upgrade branding, software, NORTH CAROLINA Susi Séguret and marketing; and offset trade mission Les Dames NC welcomed 13 travel expenses. We awarded $1,000 new members into the fold on grants to Adriana A. Ortega (Succulent October 1, including Caro- Vegan Tacos); Elizabeth Lassiter, (Lost lyn Dunn, Alethea Segel, Weekend Farms); Kylee Thatcher, (Three Amanda Cushman, Stepha- Daughters Farm and BootHill Blades). nie Nikolic, Kathy Hester, We also awarded $500 grants to Alex Nashville Chapter President Kim Calaway, Lynn Wells, Erin Byers Murray receives Brigid Washington, Jennifer Comfort-Wasnewsky (Thompson Nash- “The Ruth,” a Phila Hach ville); Erin Keas (L.A. Jackson, Thomp- award. Field, Breana Killeen, Anne son Nashville); Jennifer Albanese (Pig Marie Thornton, Melissa Ka- The NC Chapter welcomes 13 new & Leaf Farm, Spiral Ridge Permaculture); Kechelle Williams (Early trincic, and Susan Johnson Dames at a communal, outdoor dinner. Eats food truck); Keshia M. Hay (Sip N Bite private chef services); Smith. Jamie DeMent hosted Photo: Felicia Trujillo. WINTER QUARTERLY 2019 31 the membership for the meeting and for an outdoor dinner at her awarded two scholarships—to Alexandria Evenson (Drexel Uni- Coon Rock Farms communal table. versity) and Ashley Dudley (Walnut Hill College)—as well as one In April, NC Dames in the Kitchen rallied for a fundraiser at Coleen continuing education grant to Ana Caballero (Fork Restaurant). Speaks’ PoshNosh Catering at Whitaker & Atlantic, which was spon- An autumn happy hour was held at Bar Hygge, where Julie Kline sored by the NC Department of Agriculture and highlighted a variety is executive chef. Members also gathered for a Sunday afternoon of NC products. Funds from the event benefited the Inter-Faith Food lunch and tea at Anney Thomas’ Chaat & Chai in the newly Shuttle and the NC K-12 Culinary Institute. opened Bourse Food Court, along with a screening of the film Tea Earlier 2018 gatherings included a dinner hosted by Giorgio with the Dames. Bakatsias and his team at Parizade, and by Paula Cisarano and her Lastly, eight members attended the fabulous LDEI Annual team at Weathervane at Southern Season. Thanks go out to Sharon Conference in Seattle, including Charlotte Ann Albertson, Lynn Van Vechten for instigating these culinary celebrations. Buono, Natanya DiBona, Linda Forristal, Kathy Gold, Judy Rusignuolo, Irene Silver, and Pat Ward. PALM SPRINGS Pam Bieri On October 25, Venus de Fido—a swanky doggy and people SACRAMENTO Debbie Arrington spa—provided an intimate venue and perfect foil for LDEI Palm Lisa Lin, author of the Healthy Nibbles & Bits food blog, taught Springs Chapter's 18th annual Death by Chocolate fundraiser. chapter members how to make Chinese dumplings at the home of Guests were dressed to Elise Bauer. Part of the chapter's Global Culinary Initiative, Lin kill in 1920s chic; you also taught a class in wonton and potstickers for chapter members. could not tell who was a On September 29, the chapter also co-hosted the 2018 Village guest or member of the Feast with the Davis cast of characters plotting Farm to School pro- the whodunnit mystery. gram. Eating locally Fabulous silent auction produced food at items and gorgeous cheese one very long table, and fruit displays filled the Dying for Chocolate in Palm Springs! L-R: more than 300 pa- lobby where champagne Dame Kay Bogeajis, President Lisa Wherry, trons attended this guest Cheryl Kauffman, Dame Janet Harris, and major farm-to-fork flowed, while unsuspect- Treasurer Kathy Schriefer. Photo: Pam Bieri. ing guests mingled with community event, possible victims or culprits. Dinner magically appeared at tables set held under the in the indoor doggy park downstairs, where the plot to take over the sycamores at Davis (fictional) burned-down Bates Mansion unraveled—as did some of Central Park in Da- the characters who revealed their evil intentions. Guests were enrapt vis, California. The with the fun, live dinner theater, trying to figure out the culprit. first major com- munity event for But it didn't matter in the end because the chocolate buffet was the Food blogger Lisa Lin, author of Healthy Nibbles real killer! Dozens of brownie bites, cookies, salted caramel tarts, Sacramento's LDEI, & Bits, shared her love of Chinese dumplings tiramisu, cakes, chocolate date bread, chocolate confections, and the fundraiser sup- with members of the LDEI Sacramento Chapter. wrapped gourmet chocolates were happily heaped onto plates or ports the chapter's Members of the Sacramento Chapter join Lisa Lin wrapped to take home. scholarship program in the kitchen of Dame Elisa Bauer for a hands-on primer in making Chinese dumplings. Dame Vicki and efforts to pro- Revak offers a toast to Dames and guests at the PHILADELPHIA Natanya DiBona vide local produce 2018 Village Feast. Les Dames Philadelphia’s Third Annual Heritage Farm Dinner to local schools. was held September 23 at Bartram’s Garden. The event brought together twenty Philadelphia chefs to create a family-style meal in SAN FRANCISCO Kimberly Noelle Charles honor of this year’s five Outstanding in Her Field award honorees: At the Annual General Meeting, the following nine members Claire Boasi, Susanna Foo, Aliza Green, Kathleen Mulhern, and were inducted into the chapter at Gayle Pirie’s Foreign Cinema Judy Wicks. We were beyond thrilled that Carol Brock attended restaurant: Amanda Haas, Cookbook Author & Video Host; the event for the first time! Proceeds from the event, which in- Chantal Martin, Laney College, Oakland, CA; Mary Margaret cluded a silent auction and raffle, go toward the chapter’s scholar- Sinnema, Food Solutionist, MM Food; Ann Alexander, Sanglier ships and grant program. Cellars; Olga Katsnelson, Postcard Communications; Kelly Our annual meeting and new member induction was held on Snowden, Ten Speed Press; Elaine Johnson, Sunset Magazine; October 2 at the Restaurant School at Walnut Hill College. That Stephany Buswell, International Culinary Center; and Shakira evening we inducted 25 incredibly accomplished new members and Simley, Nourish|Resist. Dame Marie Stecher As part of the annual membership meeting on September 17, the and scholarship award chapter named Rachel Levin as the 2018 recipient of the Karola winner Ashley Dudley Saekel Craib Excellence in Food Journalism Fellowship. Rachel is a from the Restaurant freelance journalist who has written for such publications as The New School at Walnut Hill College. 2018 York Times, The New Yorker, Lucky Peach,and San Francisco magazine. Outstanding in Her She is Eater’s first San Francisco restaurant critic, where she publishes Field honorees, from reviews every other week. Upon receiving the $2500 award, Rachel left: Dames Claire said, "It’s such a crazy honor to be recognized by such a talented Boasi, Aliza Green, group of women whose work I’ve so long admired. Thank you—for Susanna Foo, and Judy Wicks. Carol cooking and writing and producing...and for reading. I’ll definitely be Brock at the Third carrying your encouragement with me.” Annual Heritage Farm This fellowship is given annually to a promising Bay Area woman Dinner at Bartram's food journalist who isn’t a Dame, and with no application process Garden with (from left) Natanya DiBona, or strings attached. The monetary award is presented as an acknowl- Jacquie Kelly, and Maryann Baldassarre. Photos: Janet Chrzan. edgement for good works and as encouragement to keep writing and 32 Les Dames d’Escoffier International to stay in food journalism. Previous recipients are Bonnie HOPS & VINES then drove through the area's lunar Tsui, Lisa Morehouse, Rachel Khong, Jessica Battilana, landscape to the distinguished Long Emily Thelin, Twilight Greenaway, Sarah Henry, and No- continued FROM PAGE 27 Shadows winery where Dame Marie’s vella Carpenter. Visit: www.lesdamessf.org/Fellowship/ husband, Giles Necault—its distin- how they started the vineyard as pio- guished head winemaker—shared his SOUTH FLORIDA Irene Moore neers, some 30 years ago, we began to expertise. Arriving during “crush,” we It was all about betting on the horses at our Kentucky understand the risks, the costs, and the were able to observe the full-produc- Derby fundraiser event in May. Co-chaired by Irene hard work behind a glass of vino. tion experience in this state-of-the-art Moore and Robyn Webb, the party took place on the Winemaker Marie-Eve Gilla joined operation. Then, in its dazzling tasting spectacular rooftop of No. 3 Social in Wynwood, with Patricia to host our dinner at White- room, we sampled wonderful current hors d’oeuvres by Chef Norman Van Aken. We donned horse Crawford in Walla Walla. The releases, along with lunch. our finest hats and fascinators and placed bets while wines they brought—including a Our last stop was at Pam Montgom- enjoying flowing Champagne, mint juleps in traditional Merlot that Marie made from grapes ery’s Chukar Cherries' manufacturing sterling silver cups, Kentucky Hot Browns, and savory grown on Patricia’s vineyard—made a and retail location. She told us how she crab cakes. Four happy bettors chose the Derby winner, lovely meal spectacular. came up with the idea of marketing the Justify, and the winner of “Best Fascinator” took home a The next morning found us standing dried cherries left in her orchard after bottle of Champagne. in a highly regarded vineyard on the harvest by coating them with choco- On September 29 after a summer hiatus, Patty Ruiz Washington/Oregon border learn- late, and how she turned that idea hosted the Dames at her home in Olympia Heights for ing from its award-winning manager, into a thriving concern. We toured her our annual meeting, which was accompanied by a sump- Sadie Drury, what it takes to grow production facility, while munching tuous potluck feast. exceptional grapes using sustainable on generous samples of her products. On October 25, Irene Moore, Paulette Bilsky, and farming practices in Washington Then it was back on the bus to Seattle, Patty Ruiz co-chaired an “Aegean Heritage Flavors” Greek State’s special climate and conditions filled with gratitude for the talented fundraiser dinner at the Miele Experience Center in Coral (rainfall as little as 8-inches a year). We Dames responsible for the trip. Gables. Chefs Paulette and Patty, assisted by students from Miami Culinary Institute, prepared the lavish four-course dinner, which was accompanied by Greek wines. The CANADA co-owned by Lee Murphy—“jam master” and author of The Preservatory: dinner was inspired by the “Aegean Secrets” Dinner at the FROM PAGE 27 James Beard House in New York last March, which Dames continued Seasonally Inspired Recipes for Creating Paulette and Patty, along with Dames from Los Angeles Olympics. The incomparable dinner and Cooking with Artisanal Preserves. and New York, prepared in tandem with Greek celebrity provided nuanced flavors that can’t be We tasted the culinary specialties of the chef Argiro Barbarigou (“The First Lady of Greek Cuisine”) fully appreciated in this report. The BC Dames along with Lee’s wines and and her team of chefs. Chef Argiro is ambassadress for the courses began with a sublime signature unique heritage jams. Chef Shelome 2019 European Region of Gastronomy Award, focusing on dish—luxuriously thick, foamy lobster Bouvette served causa, a showstopper the cuisine of the South Aegean region. “cappuccino” with dashi custard and Peruvian dish of whipped yellow pota- poached lobster. Pan Roasted “Lois toes with aji amarillo chilies, layers of WASHINGTON, D.C. Eileen Dykes Lake” Steelhead (under charming mini shrimp and vegetables, and a tomato- Gail Forman and Janet Yu led a Vietnamese foods glass domes) and Yarrow Valley Duck corn and prawn topping. Shannon culinary tour of the Eden Center, the largest Asian-themed Breast followed. The Valrhona Choco- Washbrook’s delicious burgers have mall on the East Coast. We started with pastries at Cha late Mousse was a thing of beauty— been voted among Vancouver’s best for Kim Phung Bakery, visited the modern Good Fortune presented in a pear-shape and enrobed 18 years running. Chef Ann Kirse- supermarket and the more old-fashioned Cho Gai market, in white chocolate. Guest Christa- bom presented her Tequi-Lime ® Sauce and tasted flavored fried tofu at Than Son Tofu. The Lee McWatters-Bond discussed the and seductive artisan chocolates, “Paris highlight was the nine-course feast of traditional Vietnam- variety of excellent Okanagan wines In A Chocolate™. Tina Hill brought ese dishes and a demonstration of summer rolls at Four from ENCORE Vineyards Ltd., home tasty Kangaroo Chorizo Salami, Asian Seasons Restaurant. Our day ended with Kung Fu Tea to TIME Winery, Evolve Cellars, and Duck Salami, Peppercorn Venison bubble tea. McWatters Collection. Christa-Lee is Salami, and Milano-Style Bison Sa- In October, we gathered at Gunther & Co. to enjoy food director of ENCORE sales and mar- lami. Jenice Yu prepared cold-smoked and wine and listen to Stephanie Hirsch reminisce about keting; her father, Harry McWatters, salmon and addictive, sweet-salty her adventures as Julia Child’s personal assistant. Hosted is CEO. He built BC’s wine industry “Indian candies” made from black cod, by Gunther’s Director of Operations Nancy Hart Trice, into the award-winning, international- and wild salmon with maple. Chef dinner was prepared by Executive Chef Jerry Trice. The ly-recognized region it is today. Dawn Doucette served a savory clam meal included oysters on the half shell, crème fraîche- The following morning, a superb chowder with toppings that brought spiked pumpkin soup, steak tartare and fish-rich bouil- breakfast was hosted by Margot guests back for more. Wine author- labaisse. The evening ended with a glass of Petit Guiraud Baloro at the Listel’s farm-to-table ity Mireille Sauvé (LDEI scholarship Sauternes and pear clafouti with cardamom ice cream. Forage Restaurant. The remainder of winner) produced Dame’s Wine; On November 1, Barbara Black and Vickie Reh hosted the morning was spent on activities proceeds support food and beverage The Wine Table, an evening of food and wine at Black of our choosing, including a museum education for BC women. Marina Coffee. The event was inspired by Vickie’s new book, visit, a walk through Stanley Park, Knudsen of the award-winning Spier- The Wine Table—Recipes and Pairings from Winemakers’ and a tour of BCs finest chocolate head Winery in the Okanagan Valley Kitchens. The book is an account of Vickie’s adventures and pastry shops. also provided wines. Everyone enjoyed traveling to visit and cook with eighteen winemakers in For our final event, we headed south the leisurely afternoon of camaraderie France and Italy. Barbara and her Black Coffee staff pre- to the rich farmlands of South Langley, and activities on the farm: exploring pared dishes from the book paired with wines from the a leading wine and culinary agritour- Farmgate Market, touring the prop- corresponding winemakers, showcasing the “eat what the ism destination in the Fraser Valley. erty, feasting on exceptional foods, and winemaker eats” concept upon which the book is based. The BC Dames arranged an afternoon sipping BC’s finest wines under the at Vista D’Oro Farms & Winery, graceful walnut trees. WINTER QUARTERLY 2019 33 The Premium Berry of Choice.

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34 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Sacramento Chapter’s Green Tables Event a Fundraising Success! By Rachel Levine, Green Tables Chair (Sacramento) On September 29, 2018, LDEI Sacramento partnered with Davis Farm- to- School to present The Village Feast—"a grand aioli” modeled after the great village feasts of Provence. Originally the brain child of Dames Georgeanne Brennan (SF) and Ann M. Evans (past president LDEI Sacramento), the Village Feast was first presented in 2004. Ann and Rachael Levine served as the 2018 co-chairs. The leisurely afternoon luncheon was held in the Davis Central Park, Davis California, under the sweeping canopy of sycamore trees. Tables were set in a long u-shape and decorated with fresh olive boughs, fresh Sacramento Delta pears, and bottles of local olive oil. The menu featured heirloom tomatoes, aioli, grilled vegetables, fingerling potatoes, hard- cooked eggs, grilled leg of lamb, and a rustic pear tart. Local wines, hard cider, and lavender lemonade rounded out the meal. The Village Feast model is wholly sustainable—a point of great pride— beginning with local area farmers and producers being paid market price for ingredients and table décor. Ticket prices cover the cost of the caterer; wineries and featured cidery; local permits to the city of Davis; and operational costs. Attendees participate by bringing their own place settings, the uniqueness of which is positively delightful. Food and green waste is collected at the end of the meal by volunteer students who work at the Davis Farmers’ Market, which was started in 1976. Fundraising relies solely on corporate and private sponsorships and a robust silent auction with proceeds divided equally between the two organizations. This year’s goal was to raise $20, 000 in combined funds and not only was the goal reached, but it was exceeded by $10,000. LDEI Sacramento will receive just over $15,000 for its scholarship fund, which provides scholarships to women for professional studies in agriculture, culinary arts, and wine.

Photos: Hanna Schoenberger.

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WINTER QUARTERLY 2019 35 MEMBER MILESTONES Dottie Koteski (Philadelphia) ATLANTA Double Gold; and 2016 Viogner—Gold. ham Magazine. Hon- Mary Moore , CEO of Cook’s Warehouse, Ha Lam, food photographer, created all orees are chosen based was recognized in the Atlanta Business the drool-worthy, eat with your eyes, pho- on their impact on Chronicle’s 2018 Most tos for The Whole Foods Cookbook which their city and region Admired CEO’s in the was released in 2018. across all the industries retail category. The 42 in making Alabama executives in 21 cat- Abby Love, pastry chef, left the restau- a better place. www. egories and industries rant world to launch her own company, ashleymacs.com L'Oven Bread. www.lovenbread.com Ashley McMakin were honored at an Rachel Q. West, RD awards dinner in Au- Kate Payne, author of The Hip Girl's was inducted into the gust at the InterCon- Guide to Homemaking and a regular 2018 Mass Communi- tinental Buckhead Mary Moore contributor to Edible Austin, took on a cation and Journalism Atlanta hotel. new role as executive director of the Texas Hall of Fame at the Jennifer Hill Booker Farmers’ Market, operating two producer- University of Southern was named by Essence only markets weekly throughout the year. Mississippi. Most re- Magazine as one of the texasfarmersmarket.org cently she was a senior “7 Dope Black Female Rae Wilson, winemaker and owner of editor and brand Chefs You Oughta Wine for the People and Dandy Rosé, leader at Oxmoor Rachel Q. West, RD Know!” Chef Jen- launched Dandy Bubbles. House & Cooking nifer delights in her Light-branded books many roles as reality BRITISH COLUMBIA and SIPs. Two of the TV personality, cook- Jennifer Hill Booker Leeann Froese, owner books she edited have book author, culinary of Town Hall Brands, won prestigious James educator, and business owner. Inc., was nominated Beard Awards. for the Premier’s Catherine Sloss Jones, AUSTIN People’s Choice, and Kendall Antonelli was named an Austin president and CEO Best Marketer catego- of Sloss Real Estate, Catherine Sloss Jones Business Journal Profile in Power in 2018. ries in the Small Busi- She served as Honorary Chair of Aus- has received the 2018 ness British Columbia Bell Johnson Lifetime Achievement Award tin’s National Alliance on Mental Illness Awards. Winners for Leeann Froese Walk and additionally penned an op-ed from the Girl Scouts of North-Central these two categories Alabama. Catherine is also Board Chair of in the Journal on her personal journey will be announced this year. with depression. Antonelli's Cheese Shop, Pepper Place Market. www.pepperplace- once again, was distinguished as one of Sandra Oldfield was inducted into the market.com America’s Favorite Cheese Shops. British Columbia Restaurant & Foodser- vices Association Hall of Fame for 2018. CHARLESTON Susan Auler, co-founder/owner of Fall She was recognized as a “Friend of the Nathalie Dupree was Creek Vineyards, excelled at the 2018 Industry” for the support she has given to honored by the Ex San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competi- the restaurant and BC wine industry in Libris Society during tion Best of Class. Awards were: 2017 her various roles as a winemaker, business an evening of Conver- Grenache Rose—Double Gold; 2013 leader, and advocate. sation and Dinner at Meritus—Bronze; 2014 Terrior Reflec- the University of South Stephanie tion Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon— Sil- Carolina. She and Nathalie Dupree ver; 2015 Chardonnay—Silver; 2016 Jaeger, past Dr. David S. Shields Sauvignon Blanc—Bronze; and 2017 chapter explored cultural and social practices in Sauvignon Blanc—Silver. president, was the South. Guests viewed an exhibit from inducted into Nathalie’s collection, which resides at the Stacy Franklin (Franklin BBQ), Jessica the British Maher (Lenoir), and Sarah Heard (For- University Libraries Irvin Department of Columbia Rare Books and Special Collections. eign & Domestic), Natalie Gazaui (Kem- Restaurant & uri Tatsu-ya), Caroline Forbes and Janie Foodservices CHICAGO Ramirez Alex Manley (Dai Due), and Association Dobra Bielinski and her mother, (Jeffrey's) were listed among the Best Res- Hall of Fame Stanisława Hawryszczuk, are the owners taurants of 2018 in the Austin-American for 2018. She of Delightful Statesman. https://www.statesman.com took home Pastries in the Michele Haram, a certified cheese profes- this year’s Jefferson Park sional, joined Cypress Grove Cheese as a Industry Award for her exceptional profes- community of National Sales Director. sionalism as co-owner and face of The Pear Chicago and Tree restaurant in Burnaby. Julie Kuhlken took home several awards celebrated the 20th anniver- at the 2018 San Francisco Chronicle Wine BIRMINGHAM Completion Best of Class event. Julie sary of their Ashley McMakin, owner of Ashley business. www. who is the co-founder and CMO of Mac’s Inc., has been named one of the 30 Pedernales Cellars earned the following delightfulpas- Alabama Women Who Shape the State in tries.com distinctions: 2016 Valhalla—Silver; 2016 2018 by both This is Alabama and Birming- Tempranillo—Bronze; 2016 Viogner— 36 Les Dames d’Escoffier International DALLAS of American History Susi Gott Séguret Dotty Griffithwas inducted into The Daily in Washington, D.C. wrapped up work on a Texan Hall of Fame, awarded by Friends of and the Museum of the new book, Child of the the Daily Texan, Inc., as a Pioneering Food American Revolution in Woods, to be released Feb- Journalist. The award was presented at a gala Philadelphia in December ruary 26, 2019. She has held on the University of Texas campus in as part of her book tour also signed a contract for Austin, Texas. telling the stories behind A Chef’s Guide to Cooking Renie Steves became the cherished American with Truffles, to be released first female recipient of cookie recipes. Anne Byrn next autumn, and she is Susi Gott Séguret the Walter Kaufmann Erin Byers Murray looking at a second print- Lifetime Achievement released her latest book, ing for Appalachian Appetite. Award at The Fort Worth Grits: A Cultural and Brigid Washington’s article appeared in late Food & Wine Founda- Culinary Journey Through October in the food section of the New York tion's annual Center Stage the South (St. Martin's Times. The feature was a profile of Cheetie Ku- Gala. During the five- Press), in November. This mar who is a chef in Raleigh, North Carolina. Renie Steves course dinner and wine is Erin's fourth book and Lynn Wells marked her 4th anniversary of paring, attendees came together to celebrate she will be touring various Erin Byers Murray being an entrepreneur as owner of Thyme Well Renie's numerous accomplishments in the cities in support of the Spent Personal Chef Service, LLC. food and wine industry. book throughout 2019. PHILADELPHIA GREATER DES MOINES NEW YORK Janet Chrzan’s latest book Cyd Koehn Shari Bayer , owner/chef of Cyd's Catering , founder and president of Bayer was published in Decem- LLC., was recognized by the Des Moines Public Relations, celebrated the 15th anniver- ber 2018 by Bloomsbury business community as Best Caterer Runner- sary of her company. It is a full-service public re- Publishing. Organic Food, Up in the Business Record's 2018 Best of Des lations company that includes: consulting, social Farming and Culture Moines. She specializes in Spanish tapas media, and marketing specializing in culinary, provides readers with real- and advocates “buy fresh buy local.” Cyd is hospitality, and representing restaurants. world case studies and a a certified master judge for the Kansas City [email protected] comprehensive introduc- Janet Chrzan Barbecue Society. Photo: Whitney Warne, Lynn Fredericks, founder of FamilyCook Pro- tion to organic farming Ivory House Photography. ductions, was voted a member of the exclusive systems, their social and KENTUCKY Teaching Kitchen Collaborative co-led by Har- cultural values, and use of Sara Bradley, owner and vard Public Health and the Culinary Institute organic products in home chef of Freight House in of America. Members include leading hospi- and institutional kitchens. Paducah, was named as tals, corporations, and government agencies. www.bloomsbury.com/us/ one of the Cheftestants FamilyCook’s membership reflects 20+ years of organic-food-farming-and- competing on the upcom- research-based teaching kitchen programming culture-9781350027831/ ing 16th season of Bravo’s to reverse obesity and chronic disease. Lynn@ Michele Konopi passed Michele Konopi familycookproductions.com Top Chef. The episode Sara Bradley the Executive Bourbon premiered December Marion Nestle announced the release of her lat- Steward certification offered by Moonshine 6th. Chef Bradley was the lone representative est book, Unsavory Truth: How Food Companies University in Kentucky. This certification entails from the host state. www.facebook.com/chef- Skew the Science of What We Eat. successful completion of every process of distilla- sarabradley. tion, including the essential skillset of cutting of NORTH CAROLINA the heads, hearts, and tails. Michele also passed LOS ANGELES/ORANGE COUNTY Jamie DeMent an- the Certified Sake Adviser certification from the Alison Ashton's cover nounced the release of Sake School of America. story about Food Net- Canning in the Modern www.moonshineuniversity.com work star Ina Garten and Kitchen (Rodale Books, her new cookbook titled, a division of Penguin PHOENIX Cook Like a Pro, appeared Random House). This Danielle Leoni was awarded the James Beard in the October 28, 2018, publication is a guide to Foundation Women in Entrepreneurial Leader- issue of Parade magazine. canning for the modern Jamie DeMent ship Fellowship. The foundation picks just 20 www.parade.com cook. It features new women across the nation as recipients for the Alison Ashton techniques and includes over 100 recipes from fellowship. This leadership program was created MINNESOTA classic jams and compotes to unique sauces and in 2017 to support women restaurant owners Robin Asbell announced the release of Plant- pâtés. www.jamiedement.com and food entrepreneurs, focusing on mentor- Based Meats: Hearty, High-Protein Recipes for Melissa Katrincic, founder of Durham Dis- ship, education, and development. Vegans, Flexitarians, and Curious Carnivores. tillery, was recognized in the Triangle Business www.foodandwine.com/news/james-beard- (Countryman Press) It is a handy guide to Journal’s 2018 Innovation in Business Awards foundation-womens- ingredients, cooking methods, and the basic for her new canned cocktails which were entered entrepreneurial-leadership- flavor profiles behind what makes meat so in the food and beverage category of the awards. program tasty. http://robinasbell.com/ Jill Santa Lucia’s company, Catering Works, PORTLAND NASHVILLE won an award for one of the Best Place to Ivy Manning announced Anne Byrn, food writer and cookbook author Work by the Triangle Business Journal and also the release of her newest of American Cake and American Cookie, ap- multiple awards at the 2017 Triangle NACE cookbook in October peared at the Smithsonian National Museum Awards event. titled, Instant Pot 6 Ivy Manning

WINTER QUARTERLY 2019 37 completed the creation MEMBER of name, logo, website MILESTONES continued and packaging design for Cairnspring Mills, Skagit Ingredient Miracle (Houghton Mifflin Har- Valley, WA. Working court). This is her eighth cookbook. Others with grain scientists, are: Instant Pot Italian, Easy Soups From farmers, bakers and chefs, Cairnspring is revitalizing Scratch with Quick Breads To Match, and Pascha Scott Crackers & Dips. www.hmhco.com the local grain economy and milling fresh flour from local grains. SACRAMENTO Rose Ann Finkel of Pike Brewing celebrated Debbie Arrington, formerly of The Sacra- the opening of their pub in Nagoya at Chubu mento Bee, won the 2018 Garden Writers Centrair Airport as part of the Seattle Boeing Association Gold Award for best newspaper Complex. writing, which is the top national honor for excellence in horticultural journalism. Leslie Macrina opened another Macrina Bakery location on October 9th, which was S O M E SAY , Elizabeth-Rose Mandalou was named one proclaimed Macrina Bakery Day in the Em- of the nation's top five new sommeliers by erald City by Seattle’s Mayor, Jenny Durkan. “ I L O V E YOU.” Wine & Spirits magazine in its 2018 October S O M E BAKE issue. She owns Allora with her husband, Judith Dern published her book, The Food and Drinks of Seattle: From Wild Salmon to C AKE . chef Deneb Williams. Their Italian seafood restaurant, Allora, stocks more than 200 Craft Beer. The book is an overview of the European wines. history, culture, and cuisine along with a culinary tour of this flourishing and fasci- Amy Myrdal Miller presented a session nating Pacific Northwest city. (Rowman & along with UC Davis professor, Frank Mit- Littlefield Pub Inc.) loehner, PhD, at the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics 2018 Food & Nutrition Con- Nancy Lazara and Jerilyn Brusseau, along ference & Expo held in October in Wash- with Leslie Mackie and the Green Tables ington, D.C. The topic was: Where Does committee have been working with the Bread Animal Agriculture Fit Into a Sustainable Lab in Skagit Valley. With Nancy's help, Food System? Amy also holds membership Metropolitan Markets is offering this uber- with the San Francisco Chapter. local wheat flour for sale. Kate McDermott has published her second SAN ANTONIO book, Home Cooking with Kate McDermott Leslie Komet Auburn’s public relations firm, (October 2018). Her first book Art of the Pie: Komet Marketing Communications, was A Practical Guide to Crusts, Fillings, and Life, named the 2018 PR Agency of the Year by was a James Beard finalist; both books are the North San Antonio Chamber of Com- published by The Countryman Press. merce. Leslie also recently was presented with the Tex Taylor Lifetime Achievement Award SOUTH FLORIDA from the Public Relations Society of America. Karen Weiner Escalera of KWE Partners an- www.kometcommunications.com nounced a new client for the firm’s marketing and public relations services: OD Hotels of SAN FRANCISCO Spain. The luxury hotels are in prime locations Andrea Nguyen, a 2018 in Barcelona, Ibiza, Palma James Beard award-win- de Mallorca, and coming ning author, is thrilled to up in 2019, St. Tropez. announce the February release of her sixth cook- Shari Gherman of book, Vietnamese Food AFWC hosted the Any Day, which helps 11th annual Charity cooks to master Vietnam’s Wine Gala last May at Pier Sixty-Six. The event cuisine with supermarket Andrea Nguyen ingredients and simple was a huge success with Shari Gherman techniques. Vietworldkitchen.com more than 260 people in attendance and 10 wineries. Jerry Di Vecchio, retired food editor of Sunset magazine, was invited by the current WASHINGTON, D.C. Made in Ireland food editor, Margo True, to help celebrate the Nancy Tringali Piho completed a dietetic in- 120 years of Sunset by researching recipes of ternship through Iowa State University to earn with milk from grass-fed cows, enduring popularity from the magazine’s ar- the credential of Registered Dietitian Nutrition- chives for a special feature on holiday classics ist. She is president of NTA, Inc. in Washing- it’s a taste that says which appeared in the November issue. ton, D.C., and director of Shopping for Health, a program for supermarket dietitians. Nancy SEATTLE a thousand words. authored My Two-Year-Old Eats Octopus: Rais- Pascha Scott and the creative team at ing Children Who Love to Eat Everything. (Bull Vertetude Brand Communications recently Publishing). www.tringaliassociates.com 38 Les Dames d’Escoffier International

3798 Kerrygold Ad / Les Dame d’Escoffier 1/3 page / 2.4722x10.25” v1 8/28/18 rose de Heer design KEYNOTE SPEAKER continued FROM PAGE 13 step up to play the ukulele or do a Maori poi ball dance (the art of rhythmically swinging tethered weights) as part of the program. Lori performed extensively with the group in Hawaii and across SUBMISSION GUIDELINES the United States, Australia, New Zealand, the Philippines, and Japan. She became increasing DEADLINES comfortable on stage, which led to a big decision SPRING ISSUE – JANUARY 10, 2019 | SUMMER ISSUE – APRIL 12, 2019 at the age of 17. At the urging of her friends and FALL ISSUE – AUGUST 1, 2019 the lure of a scholarship, Lori entered and won the Miss Teenage America 1974 competition. MEMBER MILESTONES membermilestones@aol. com Her talent was the unusual choice of a poi ball Email to Member Milestone Editor, Dottie Koteski by the deadline listed above. dance. As Miss Teenage America, she spent half Include: • CHAPTER her time in school as a high-school senior and • DAME’S NAME the other half travelling the country performing, • Maximum 50 words for each Dame about personal honors or accomplish- speaking to various groups and being interviewed ments, but not about new product introductions or other promotions. by journalists throughout the U.S. That experi- Please include a website URL, if applicable. Press releases and cookbook ence made such an impression that she decided covers are NOT accepted. to pursue a career in journalism. PHOTO: You may email a high resolution quality headshot to accompany your “I thought it would be fun to get paid to news (see below). You must submit a photo permissions form for the photo. interview people and to learn something new Note: Due to space constraints, only two Member Milestones will be every day,” she said. So she majored in journalism published per Dame per year. in college, interning each summer in Hawaii at the local paper and, during her senior year, at a CHAPTER PROGRAMS [email protected] TV station in San Francisco. Upon graduating, Email up to 200 words about chapter events that have already occurred she garnered two job offers in response to the to Chapter News Editor, Nichole Bendele by the deadline listed above. 100-plus letters she sent out. One was from the Include: Los Angeles Times and the other from television • CHAPTER station in Reading, CA. • SUBMITTER’S NAME “I thought the television job would be some- • Maximum 200 words for each chapter. thing to do when you’re young and strong and • Captions for all photos submitted. could carry all the gear.” Lori recalled. “Well, I Submissions that exceed 200 words will be edited to comply. thought, I’ll do television first and then, when Press releases are not accepted. We regret we don’t have space to print full I get wrinkled and toothless, I’ll be a print menus but menu items can be included in the copy. reporter. That was my plan; but I’ve just been Note: “Chapter Programs” and “Member Milestones” may be dispersed doing TV ever since." through LDEI social-media channels, as well as in print and online. In 1983, she landed at KING 5; yet, as much as she loved Seattle, it was not the “Big Time” of a PHOTOGRAPHY/IMAGES major network. So, after a few years of attending • Electronic images must be properly focused and in color conferences and “networking like crazy,” she got with a minimum resolution of 300 dpi (TIFF or JPEG). a job offer to be the LA correspondent for “NBC • Cell phone photos are acceptable if they meet requirements. Nightly News” with Tom Brokaw. Amazing! By • Do not send photos taken off the Internet or embedded this time, though, she was married to a TV execu- with text in Word files or PDF files. tive and had a son in first grade. As hard as the • Include photo credits, if required. decision was, she opted to put her family first and • A photo permissions form must be submitted. stay where she was. • A maximum of three photos can be submitted per chapter. Then, she said, “The oddest thing happened. • ALL PHOTOGRAPHS MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY King 5 started sending me all over” to cover big CAPTIONS OR THEY WILL NOT BE PUBLISHED. stories in Nicaragua, Tokyo, Beijing, and Wash- LDEI regrets that we cannot include lengthy profiles of individual Dames ington, D.C. She was doing what she loved due to space limitations. Dames’ accomplishments should be submitted to even though she had made what seemed to be “Member Milestones” or to LDEI’s Closed Group on Facebook at the incorrect choice for her career. https://www.facebook.com/groups/218435184886471/ As a result, Lori has grown deep roots in her community founding the Seattle Chapter of the E-NEWS (Not for the Quarterly) This bimonthly email newsletter Asian American Journalists Association to mentor reports upcoming events in other chapters. Include title, date, time, cost, a and provide scholarships for aspiring journalists one-sentence description, and an email contact for your chapter’s events. of color; co-founding the Japanese Cultural and Send E-News to the editor: Diane Wheeler, at [email protected] or Community Center of Washington, where she [email protected]. remains a board member; serving as a role model for other Asian American women and fostering a happy and successful marriage and family. “The UPCOMING in the purpose of life is to live a life of purpose,” Lori spring issue said. Through the choices she has made, Lori Working Sommeliers | Legacy Award Winners’ Reports | Supermarket Trends has created a life of purpose, and she challenged Dames to do the same. WINTER QUARTERLY 2019 39 PRESORTED Ann Arbor Miami FIRST CLASS Atlanta Minnesota U S POSTAGE Austin Monterey Bay PAID Birmingham Nashville LOUISVILLE KY Boston New England P.O. Box 4961 PERMIT #1051 British Columbia New Orleans Louisville, KY 40204 Charleston New York Charlotte/ North Carolina Western Carolinas Palm Springs Chicago Paris, France Cleveland/ Northeast Ohio Philadelphia Colorado Phoenix Dallas Portland Greater Sacramento Des Moines San Antonio Hawaii San Diego Houston San Francisco Kansas City Savannah/ Kentucky Coastal Georgia London Seattle Los Angeles/ South Florida Orange County St. Louis Mexico Washington, D.C.

[ OCTOBER 24 - 27, 2019 ] [ LOEWS VANDERBILT HOTEL ]

LDEI 2019 ANNUAL CONFERENCE

and growing more diverse by the day. Nash- will be based at the lovely Loews Vanderbilt Welcome to Music City! ville’s Dame chefs, brewmasters, business Hotel across from Vanderbilt University and After a terrific conference in Seattle, your owners, farmers, cheese makers, sommeliers, in walking distance of the historic Parthenon Nashville Dames are busy planning the hoteliers, writers, publicists, and teach- and Centennial Park. According to Confer- 2019 Annual Conference from October ers are looking forward to sharing our city ence Co-Chairs Anne Byrn and Mindy 24-27 in the Music City. Nashville is where with you. Under the conference theme of Merrell, when you join us in Nashville you Loretta Lynn, Kitty Wells, and Dolly Parton “Rhythm and Roots,” we will explore our lo- will hear our stories and hopefully dance to made their names on stage, and it was once cal foods, beverages, and music and examine our music. In the process, we'll encourage dubbed the "Athens of the South." It has a big picture concepts through a local lens. We each other, embrace our strengths and tal- heritage of publishing, marketing, business, will also explore the history of this region, ents, and engage in good work for the local and education, but it's a city that is changing different from other parts of the South. We community and the world.