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VC_F12_WWD_WRAP_v2.indd 2 8/22/12 3:14 PM INSPIRED BLUE NOTES MONACO BLUE AND DUSK BLUE THE SPARK OF CREATIVITY ARE THE LEADING PANTONE FOR MEN’S DESIGNERS. THE SPARK OF CREATIVITY FOR COLORS FOR SPRING. PAGE 13 PAGE MW1 MEN’S DESIGNERS FOR SPRING. MW, PAGE ONE

UPPING THE ANTE Macy’s Aims Higher With New Luxe Hall

By DAVID MOIN

NEW YORK — Luxury will be the new welcome mat at Macy’s Herald Square. WWD Four major luxury brands — Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Burberry and Longchamp — will be showcased front and center on the Broadway side of the flagship be- THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2012 Q $3.00 Q WOME ginning in November in a “luxury hall” under con- struction as part of the store’s four-year, top-to-bottom $400 million renovation, WWD has learned. “This is not just a little luxury corner. This is going to be powerful,” Terry J. Lundgren, Macy’s chairman, president and chief executive officer, told WWD. Macy’s luxury shops will be the largest in-store shops for all of the brands involved, second in size only to each brand’s freestanding flagship locations. It’s an image raiser for the mid-tier Macy’s, though the Herald Square flagship, considered the third-most trafficked tourist attraction in the city next to the Empire State Building and Statue of Liberty, draws 20 million visitors annually from all over the world and from all demographics, even those shopping Vuitton’s EXCLUSIVE $2,600 leather clutches and canvas bags. Macy’s multilevel hall of luxury will occupy a total of 19,000 square feet, on the first and second floors, plus a mezzanine that’s being built. Vuitton, which has been selling at the Macy’s flagship for 30 years on the corner of 34th Street and Broadway, will be the largest shop. It’s expanding to three levels and more than 8,000 square feet, and is adding shoes to the as- Katie’s sortment which also includes handbags, small leather goods and men’s accessories including luggage. Gucci will span 6,200 square feet over three levels and offer handbags, small leather goods, women’s and men’s shoes, jewelry and watches. Longchamp will offer handbags and small leather goods in 1,500 square feet over two levels. Burberry, with three levels and New 3,600 square feet, will feature large and small leather goods, rainwear and the latest technology live-stream- ing runway shows and brand content. That leaves 8,700 square feet for Vuitton, which will be the largest Deal SEE PAGE 10 Louboutin’s Red Ruling Katie Holmes has a very personal way of unwinding after a tough day of dodging the By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD paparazzi: arts and crafts with her six-year-old daughter, Suri. “I spray-paint shoe racks, NEW YORK — In their war over the color red, both Christian Louboutin and Yves Saint Laurent are because, why not?” she said with a laugh. Aside claiming major victories. from mom duty, Holmes is venturing out on more A New York federal appeals court backed the va- than one new path. She’s now the first celebrity lidity of Louboutin’s red-sole trademark Wednesday, but said the French shoemaker would only be able to sign on as the face of Bobbi Brown Cosmetics, to protect its mark when it comes to red-soled shoes where she’ll also serve as muse and collaborator. with contrasting uppers. To further round things out, the actress is That caveat gives YSL the right to continue sell- ing its monochrome pump — the shoe that spawned a preparing for her fashion week debut on lawsuit from Louboutin in April 2011 — and it also ar- Wednesday with her Holmes & Yang guably gives YSL a slight advantage as the case moves back to New York federal court, which will now evalu- collection. For more, see page 9. ate YSL’s counterclaims. In short, Louboutin keeps his trademark, albeit under more restrictive terms, and YSL can keep sell- ing all-red shoes. YSL attorney David Bernstein called it a “stunning victory” for his client and said the court has “conclu- sively ruled that YSL’s monochromatic red shoes do not infringe any trademark rights of Louboutin, which guarantees that YSL can continue to make monochro- matic shoes in a wide variety of colors, including red.” In the initial suit, Louboutin alleged YSL violated its 2008 red-sole trademark by selling an all-red pump. Presiding federal court Judge Victor Marrero dis- agreed, denying Louboutin’s request and instead ques- tioning the validity of the brand’s famous mark alto- gether. Lawyers for Louboutin appealed that decision just over a year ago. PHOTO BY STEPHEN SULLIVAN SEE PAGE 13 2 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2012 WWD.COM Dior Launches Magazine THE BRIEFING BOX IN TODAY’S WWD February introduction of online was to embrace and bring in the By MILES SOCHA editorial at Diormag.com, which best brands,” he said. has already attracted some 2.6 “We really believe Printemps PARIS — Christian Dior is million visitors, the company said. is more than selling products — splashing its famous name Meanwhile, the Christmas it’s about creating an experience, On the streets over two glossy initiatives this partnership with Printemps ex- and we’re looking for brands during the fall and winter: its own print tends from the building’s facade that can help us create magic in Venice Film magazine, and a holiday proj- — with special illuminations our store,” said Printemps chair- Fest. ect with Printemps’ Boulevard and windows — to unique prod- man and ceo, Paolo de Cesare. Haussmann flagship. ucts and holiday shopping bags. “We wanted to use the incredible Disclosing details of the two The initiative runs from beauty of Paris to create a global projects, Dior chief executive of- November to January, starting dream for Christmas, and when ficer Sidney Toledano said such with mechanical windows whose you talk about Paris, there are communication efforts nourish dolls will be dressed in exact a few brands that exemplify the the brand, feed its narrative and replicas of iconic Dior outfits, re- elegance, the luxury, the savoir help articulate “the values of alized by its couture ateliers. faire and the fashion of Paris, and

Dior, which are different from Watercolor sketches feature on clearly Dior is one of the best. DABROWSKI our competitors.…It’s important “Paris is the capital of fash- today to differentiate ourselves.” ion. We are blessed to have as KUBRA Entitled Dior, the seasonal neighbors the best brands of magazine is to be published fashion and luxury in the world, each September and March and we need to make the best of PHOTO BY in nine languages with a con- this,” he added. Four major luxury brands — Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Burberry trolled circulation to Dior’s Printemps estimates that 10 and Longchamp — will be showcased on the Broadway side best customers and prospects. million people pass in front of of Macy’s Herald Square beginning in November. PAGE 1 Toledano declined to quantify the store during the Christmas the number of copies the com- period. Footfall inside the store A New York federal appeals court backed the validity pany is printing but said French is 100,000 on Saturdays during of Christian Louboutin’s red-sole trademark in another and English versions would be the Christmas period, double the chapter of its battle with Yves Saint Laurent. PAGE 1 released first, around Sept. 10. usual amount, and 60,000 to 70,000 Versions in German, Italian, on weekdays, up 30 to 40 percent Katie Holmes sits down with WWD to discuss becoming Spanish, Korean, Japanese, versus the rest of the year. the first face of Bobbi Brown Cosmetics, as well as her Chinese and simplified Chinese “Despite all the crisis and fashion and acting projects. PAGE 9 are forthcoming. things that you hear, we are see- MONDINO JEAN-BAPTISTE Dior enlisted art director ing an increase in traffic in the Oscar de la Renta was honored Wednesday with the Fabien Baron to design the 110- store,” de Cesare said, noting Couture Council’s Award for Artistry at a luncheon that page debut issue, which features PHOTO BY the store has posted double-dig- drew 1,000 guests. PAGE 12

Marion Cotillard on the cover Marion Cotillard on the cover of the it sales growth at Christmas the Carine Roitfeld will unveil her CR Fashion Book wearing the house’s original Bar first issue of Dior magazine. past three years. jacket and flaring skirt from 1947. “Luxury continues to be an magazine on newsstands Sept. 13 with a 340-page issue Patrick Demarchelier, Jean- absolute winner, and it’s acces- that includes 140 ad pages. PAGE 12 Baptiste Mondino, Paolo Roversi shopping bags and on some exclu- sories, watches and jewelry and and Willy Vanderperre are sive products, conveying Dior’s shoes,” he said. “This has been Pantone reveals the top 10 colors for the spring collections among the high-profile photog- feminine, French sensibility. The a trend for a couple of years of women’s designers. PAGE 13 raphers with credits in the latter range from an Advent and we believe it will contin- issue, whose content is calendar, priced at 130 ue. What we have been seeing Joanna Coles, a day after she was named editor in chief overseen by Dior’s in- euros, or $164 at current the last couple of months, and of Cosmopolitan, was moderating a town hall meeting in house communications exchange, to a special- I think it will be the very good Charlotte, N.C. PAGE 14 team. Features include edition Dior watch for surprise for Christmas, is a new an interview with Dior’s 30,000 euros, or $37,770 at interest in fashion.” New York University Luxury Lab, or L2, today will new couturier, Raf current exchange. He said this was due to release its third annual Digital IQ Index ranking retailers Simons, by editor Jo-Ann Toledano said the three factors: the renovation of according to their online competence. PAGE 14 Furniss, with articles Printemps partnership Printemps, Asian demand and a and photo spreads dedi- speaks to the house’s creative renewal at key brands. Michelle Obama wore a Tracy Reese dress Tuesday night cated to men’s wear, “excellent relation- Printemps has previously in- to give her convention speech. PAGE 15 fine jewelry, perfume ship” with European vited Chanel and Lanvin to help and accessories. department stores like create its Christmas displays. Democrats are sending a message from their convention “It’s another way to Printemps, Galeries — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS that President Obama’s record and stance on major issues communicate luxury,” Dior’s snow globe Lafayette and Le Bon FROM JOELLE DIDERICH are strong reasons for him to be reelected. PAGE MW2 said Toledano, flipping for Printemps. Marché in through the heavy, vel- Paris, Harrods Norwegian brand Moods of Norway today will open a vety pages and stressing, “This in London and La 2,300-square-foot store at 75 Greene Street in the heart is not a catalogue. It’s fresh and Rinascente in Milan, of New York’s SoHo shopping district. PAGE MW6 modern. It’s how we see our- which in recent years selves; our own maison. I think it embarked on upscaling translates perfectly the mood of drives to attract luxury ON WWD.COM the company right now.” consumers. “Everyone The print issue follows the understood the future THEY ARE WEARING: The Venice International Film Festival’s crowd is far from accidental and is often more a scene of journalists, producers and TV types than Cherokee Acquires Liz Lange celebrities and those seeking their autographs. For more photos, see WWD.com/fashion-news. CHEROKEE INC. has added to ficer of Cherokee. Stupp its portfolio of managed brands told WWD that he ex- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS with the acquisition of Liz Lange pects the acquisition to [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. Maternity and Completely Me be immediately accretive WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. from an affiliate of Bluestar to Cherokee’s results. VOLUME 204, NO. 49. THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Alliance LLC for $14 million. Cherokee’s name- Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine The Lange maternity collec- sake brand is distrib- Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: tion has been distributed ex- uted exclusively in the S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at clusively at Target Corp. stores U.S. through Target and The acquisition was made New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian for the last 10 years. Lange’s through other direct-to-retail li- through Bluestar’s LLM Manage- Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S two-year-old sportswear off- censes with retailers including ment affiliates. Other brands in WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, shoot, Completely Me, is carried Tesco for the U.K., Ireland and the Bluestar portfolio include ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, by HSN in the U.S. and by The certain Central European mar- Joan Vass, Kooba, Ya k Pak, English call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, Shopping Channel in Canada. kets; RT-Mart in China; Pick n Laundry and Harvé Benard. option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless The purchase price, which Pay in South Africa, and Arvind Lange, who has entered into we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on includes provisions for perfor- Mills in India and certain Middle a consulting agreement with all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all mance-based earn-outs, will be Eastern markets. A pioneer of the Cherokee, started the firm in editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints covered through a new term loan direct-to-retail licensing model, 1997 and sold to Bluestar in 2007. of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at with J.P. Morgan Chase & Co. it also owns brands including Industry sources at the time put www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that “In addition to Liz Lange’s Sideout and Carole Little. the price at more than $50 million. we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at current distribution, we see an “We see the opportunity to de- Further details of the deal P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED opportunity to leverage our glob- liver top-line growth through en- are expected to be discussed ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER al platform, which spans nearly hanced merchandising and market when Cherokee reports second- UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. 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Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. ©2012 Maybelline LLC.

MCX2-10062686A MAYBELLINE COMPANY Bleed None Dir of Studio Svcs Chris Weston Corporate Trim 10” x 13.875” Dir of Graphic Svcs Stuart Turner Fashion Week Fall 2012 WWD - Safety None Project Manager Phil Krell Charlotte Page Gutter None Account Exec Rafaela Vezaro Charlotte Free Line Screen 100 Global Creative Dir Jane Mauksch 4/C Newspaper Page Lo/Hi Res Hi Creative Director Judy Wong WWD: Sept. 6, 2012 Paper Newsprint Art Director Tony Hanstad Proof # 1 Copywriter None Revision Round 4 Proofreader Denni Heiges Operator: Kim, Mike (NYC-GTH) Print/Export: 8-24-2012 4:17 PM Printed At: 100% Fonts: Helvetica Neue (55 Roman) PDF Sent To Images: MCX2-10062686A_Comp_F_4CNP.tif (CMYK; 435 ppi; 68.96%), MAYNY05_POS_White.eps (60.63%), MNY- Additional Specs: FW_2012_Fall_KO.ai (142.93%) None Inks: Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black Notes: Prepare mechanical per Comp-Dir.>

t the publIc relatIons strategIst: lynn tesoro, cofounder and partner of HL Group, is handling 15 shows and presentations this season — including Oscar de la Renta, Marchesa and Zac Posen — and five events, including the Style Awards and Angelo Galasso’s store opening at The Plaza.

What are three things you need to survive fashion week? “A sense of humor, good partners and focus.”

When do you start prepping? “Conversations with our clients almost never stop. We meet after the show and discuss what went well and what didn’t, and what is needed next season to improve the process. The teams start to actually work on the planning about three months prior to the shows, with Paris and Milan being worked on at the same time.” lynn tesoro What are you dreading? (standing) “Bad weather. It can derail a perfectly planned gathers the show.” hl group staff for a fashion What will you wear to the shows? week powwow. “I keep things simple with a mix of Ralph Lauren made-to-measure, DVF and Dries Van Noten.”

t the castIng agent: This season, james scully’s james scully New York Fashion Week (center) checks workload includes casting out a model’s the models for Jason Wu, runway walk Derek Lam, Carolina during a casting. Herrera, J. Crew and Oscar de la Renta. Meanwhile, he’s also prepping models for a London biggie: Tom Ford’s show.

do you have a fashion week survival guide? “Incredible patience. I try to be unflappable, because unbelievable things can happen during the course of the week. It takes a toll on you. I spend a lot of sleepless nights — basically, I just run on adrenaline and am not eating. I have to be at so many different places at different times.”

When do you start prepping? “Mid-August. That’s when I start planning with some meetings. After each season, it’s almost a given that 70 percent of your cast will come back, maybe even 80 percent, so it’s really about looking for new girls.”

What are you looking forward to the most? “It being over.”

What are you dreading? “Conflicts I have going on E

right now, such as when n a show somehow pops up on top of your show that GREE nna didn’t exist before. Even E if it’s not a great show, and J they may have a powerful n

stylist and that’s tough to CKSE i take sometimes.” ER KYLE ,

What will you be wearing O this week? aquin

“I don’t plan a wardrobe, n OH

but I am not a jeans-and-T- J

shirt person. I always dress BY on show dates. I always

wear Tom Ford suits.” PHOTOS

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t the retaIler: linda fargo As senior vice president of the in bergdorf fashion office and store presentation The Scenes Behind the Scenes goodman's visual at Bergdorf Goodman, linda fargo’s department. responsibilities include overseeing the visual department, which includes the store’s interior and exterior, i.e. the windows — roughly all 28 of them.

When do you start prepping for fashion week? the publIc relatIons strategIst: “It’s year-round because it’s twice lynn tesoro, cofounder and partner of HL Group, is a year and it’s not just me that has handling 15 shows and presentations this season to be ready. It’s having the store — including Oscar de la Renta, Marchesa and ready. Everyone who’s anyone is Zac Posen — and five events, including the Style going to come through. So, what are Awards and Angelo Galasso’s store opening at the windows going to look like? It’s The Plaza. the beginning of the season, which is incredibly important for sales. What are three things you need to survive fashion week? Fall runway is hitting. Everyone “A sense of humor, good partners and focus.” is back from vacation, and then you’ve got all the press and stores When do you start prepping? from around the world convening in “Conversations with our clients almost never stop. New York. So we really want to look We meet after the show and discuss what went our best. The 111th anniversary well and what didn’t, and what is needed next was an incredible catalyst for us season to improve the process. The teams start to to get a lot of projects going. We’ve actually work on the planning about three months probably undertaken more capital prior to the shows, with Paris and Milan being improvements in the store over the worked on at the same time.” summer than we’ve historically ever done.” What are you dreading? “Bad weather. It can derail a perfectly planned how do you organize your schedule? show.” “My assistant, Jennifer, is air traffic control for pretty much the entire What will you wear to the shows? company. All the ticket requests go “I keep things simple with a mix of Ralph Lauren through her. We can’t have everyone made-to-measure, DVF and Dries Van Noten.” from everyone’s office calling Oscar de la Renta and saying, ‘We need our ticket.’ We have to work out transportation, like, ‘Oh, my god. Five o’clock on the West Side Highway — car!’ And we carpool. Everyone would love to have their own car, but that’s not life anymore.”

You’re known for being very well-dressed. do you plan everything out? “I don’t do that. If everything is preset I’m bored with it before I’ve even worn it. I need that level of spontaneity — if I’m feeling I need color that day or I want just black to kind of fade in. Or if I’m feeling fat, then I definitely need black. I generally overpack. I’m kind of like a Girl Scout — I want to be ready for anything. I’ve been on trips before where I get invited to an amazing black-tie event. If I didn’t have a proper cocktail dress, I’d be in trouble. Yo u need a little lingerie, because, who knows?”

do you have a fashion week survival guide? “I take vitamins every day — they’re my insurance policy. I’d like to say sleep enough, but that’s just not realistic. Mixing business and pleasure is still kind of a formula For more for making this all good. I like the Photos, see socializing piece of it. A lot of what we WWD.com/ do is relationships.” fashion-news. What show are you most looking forward to? “If I had to pick one, Joseph Altuzarra. I thought his fall show was so special.”

fargo mulling the fashion week schedule E n in her office. GREE nna E and J n CKSE i ER KYLE , O aquin n OH J BY an artist working on props for bergdorf’s 111th anniversary windows. PHOTOS

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the american way PART ONE OF A FIVE-PART SERIES

FROM THE TURN OF THE LAST CENTURY, YOUTHFUL FASHION For eve r Yo u n g CAME TO THE FORE.

Flaming youth! The

Twenties Brenda flapper: Frazier, the shingled deb of the hair, short year in 1938. → → skirts, flap- → → ping ga- loshes and cloche hats, à la actress Going steady and getting pinned: JESSE FROHMAN/CORBIS OUTLINE Clara Bow. The rituals of romance in the Forties and Fifties, a more innocent age.

▲ Charles Dana Gibson ▲ Dance team Vernon and → models his iconic, turn-of- Irene Castle, who helped the-century Gibson Girl launch the ragtime Turkey COBAIN BY JON KOPALOF/FILMMAGIC; on his wife Irene, sister Trot and Grizzly Bear... Hippie Bobby-soxers and GAGA BY of Nancy, Lady Astor. along with bobbed hair. looks of Frank Sinatra; music’s the late

IMAGES H. ARMSTRONG ROBERTS/RETROFILE/GETTY screaming legions of young Sixties — girls are born in 1946.

long skirts,

elephant

→ Saddle shoes bring their → → bell- → two-tone panache to the bottoms, student uniform. no bras, long hair, It’s a Mod, Mod, Mod world, bare feet, as English-inspired styles bells as sweep young Sixties fashion. jewelry.

BY PRESS/GETTY CENTRAL IMAGES; HOTPANTS ▲ Designer jeans — even Gloria Vanderbilt gets in the act in 1978. →

Miniskirts — short and shorter, as HotPants worn by march into Jane Fonda the spotlight in 1969. in 1970.

MARKS/RETROFILE/GETTYGEORGE BY FONDA IMAGES; Calvin Klein BY makes his name with clean-cut STEADY sportswear for

GOING → women, his jeans → → → and his sexy underwear for Jennifer ARCHIVE; men, shown in Beals’ slashed NAST startling ads. ▲ New York gives birth to rap. Here, the sweatshirt

CONDE Michael Jackson, Sugarhill Gang. from 1983’s

a one-man hit EVERETT COLLECTION; LADY PARAMOUNT/COURTESY COLLECTION; THE SUGARHILL GANG FROM MICHAEL OCHS ARCHIVES/GETTYBEALS IMAGES; FROM factory in the “Flashdance.”

Eighties; his danc- → FRAZIER ▲ The preppy look, es and costumes detailed are big influences. in 1980’s

“The Preppy FROM THE EVERETT Handbook,” Madonna:

BETTMAN/CORBIS; ▲ Disco and disco looks — is ubiquitous The pro- here, John Travolta and TRAVOLTA in the early tean singer Karen Lynn Gorney in 1977’s has been a “Saturday Night Fever.” Eighties.

FROM PHOTO fashion influence

since her

CASTLES With no single fashion Tattoos go → → Lady → early

message self-expression mainstream Eighties

rules, with pretty-girl Gaga — in the → the Boy Toy

COLLECTION; looks, like Taylor Nineties and ▲ woman days. Swift’s, one option. Aughts, giv- of a ing members → GRANGER million of every

THE disguises. generation CHRONICLE/CORBIS ; GARY FONG/SAN FRANCISCO Who else plenty FROM ▲ Punk rock, Goth would wear to regret. Long skirts for day sweep a dress and grunge — the last with Kurt DRAWING in, just like in 1912. made of meat? Cobain — inspire JEANS BY VANDERBILT GIBSON disparate styles. ADVERTISEMENT American DREAMING The influencers, innovators and creators who define American style.

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For more reVIeWS Escada AND PHoToS, See Lisa Perry Tim Coppens WWD.com/ runway. SPring 2013: nEW YOrK Escada: The Escada design team looked to Miami’s architecture and modern art scene for spring. The inspiration could have gone wrong in so many ways, but the designers stayed true to their customer with a sophisticated take on the city. The collection was overwhelmingly large, but some of the stronger looks included vibrant arty prints, along with crafty hand-knit leather tops, color-blocked jackets, bold pantsuits and a delicate embroidered lace frock.

Organic by John Patrick: John Patrick’s collection for Organic is always easy on the eyes (and body) with his effortless signature looks worked in all natural fibers — with a dollop of nylon for rainwear. The must-haves for spring included superlong T-shirts and lean skirts in navy knitted linen, and the great long parkas that were paired with Bermudas and full pants in linen or cotton. Patrick also played with sheer layering — point d’esprit slips over printed shorts, for instance — which Escada looked trickier than most of the collection’s other pieces. Organic by John Patrick Tim Coppens Tim Coppens: Channeling a post-World War II fighter pilot, Thakoon Addition Tim Coppens entitled his on-target spring collection 10 Crosby by Derek Lam Gentlemen of the Sky. The offering centered around what Z Spoke has become his statement piece, the bomber jacket, shown Lisa Perry this season in a variety of new colors, including rust, ivy green, dust blue and sepia. As always, Coppens’ trademark contrasting sleeves, zipper play and aerodynamic constructions were executed with sharp precision. The protective quilting on jackets, leather shorts and Velcro waist straps on the “Top Gun”-inspired pants worked well with the theme, but were sometimes too tricky. Ye t the true tailored clothing, a first for the designer, looked sleek and modern, exuding a minimalistic aesthetic. In a short time, Coppens has established himself as a master of tailored sportswear, and that same sensibility was evident with his suits, cementing his position as one of men’s wear’s most promising designers.

Thakoon Addition: With the advanced contemporary market becoming increasingly important at retail, Thakoon Panichgul has amped up his Addition line. The spring collection was light, breezy and primed for the sales floor — yet not at the expense of interesting details. THE Many of the pieces were denim-inspired, some worked in a Tencel fabric that mimicked the aesthetic. COLLECTIONS There were chambray blue wide-leg pants and basketball shorts, and a great dress made up of a denim-esque vest with a short, filmy skirt. Crocheted dresses and shirting with volume in the back rounded out the mix.

10 Crosby by Derek Lam: Derek Lam tapped Into the Gloss blogger Emily Weiss as his 10 Crosby muse (she also Z Spoke 10 Crosby Thakoon Organic styled and was the model for his new look book). Inspired by Derek Addition by John by “rodeo beauty queens” and Johnny Cash, Lam offered Lam Patrick a cool approach to the good Old West with tapered riding pants, yokes on tops and jackets, appliqués on classic white shirts and lacing details on dresses, along with a lizard-print motif on several looks. Modern western can be a tricky theme, but these clothes looked fresh and approachable. Lam also launched 10 Crosby handbags, the best of which was the simple envelope style that came in solid brights, a color-blocked pattern and lizard-embossed leather.

Z Spoke: Zac Posen’s spring Z Spoke collection was a lineup of his “iconic shapes.” There were pegged skirts, delicate bow blouses, sweet party dresses and feminine suits, many featuring dart construction. Prints were playful with florals, butterflies, bows and jacquard dot patterns. Posen also presented a tight capsule of his Z Spoke nnoni Signature collection, now in its second season, which A Gi

focused on cocktail- and eveningwear — a colorful range of nni dresses in sexy shapes with pleat details. For accessories, A new looks included perforated totes, color-blocked handle nd Giov A bags and a faux stingray clutch with fringe. one

Lisa Perry: For her first fashion week presentation, Lisa ACC

Perry looked to two inspirations: the open sky from nn iA

s

the vantage point of her North Haven, Conn., summer A home and the graphic work of Ellsworth Kelly, one of hom her favorite artists. Despite the “Fly Me to the Moon” t theme (and the moon pies and podlike bottles of water served in her all-white Madison Avenue boutique), Perry Chinsee, e

tempered the Sixties space proclivities. She softened G some of the structure, as in a flowing floor-length dress in a fun stars-and-crescent print, as well as several striking shifts in geometric motifs. For evening, Perry amped up the sparkle with a

sequined jacket and cap-sleeve minidress. The collection Geor John Aquino,

should appeal beyond a Mod-loving clientele — a smart by move now that the designer is looking to build her

wholesale distribution. Photos

w06a008a;5.indd 1 9/5/12 7:57 PM 09052012195739 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2012 9 WWD.COM Katie Holmes on Fashion, Beauty and Crafts tion “because the brand is grow- “very simple, with very classic want something i can wear all cool, amazing woman who would By Julie NaughtoN and ing and expanding, and so we lines. We use a lot of silks and the time and nobody’s going to fit with our brand. and she’s just Pete BorN thought we would have some- leathers and suedes. this year, say, ‘oh, i saw that yesterday.’ ridiculously naturally beauti- thing a little more substantial.” we’re excited because we’ve in- We try to make beautiful things, ful.” Brown will do the makeup She’S BeeN FeeliNg her way they’re hoping the week will corporated a lot of new trims. and we’re not so trend-driven. for the holmes & Yang presenta- in the fashion business since help expand the brand’s reach it’s basically pieces that have We try to do a touch of rock ’n’ tion next week. 2009, but Katie holmes admits roll with our stuff, but keep it “i think it’s amazing that the retail world still has the very classic.” Bobbi found a hole in the mar- power to surprise her. While they’ve dabbled in chil- ketplace and said, ‘i’m going to “When you go in and you dren’s wear and have a deal with do something about it. i’m going show your clothing, you think Valextra for handbags, holmes to create a line for real women that they’re going to buy the noted that she and Yang, for the who want to look pretty and whole collection,” she said moment, are focusing chiefly on have it be easy,’” said holmes. with a hearty laugh during an their ready-to-wear offering. of turning playful about her role exclusive interview with WWD children’s wear, she noted: “it’s with Brown, holmes intoned on tuesday, minutes after ink- a lot of work for a price point in a mock-serious voice, “i will ing a deal with Bobbi Brown that really doesn’t make sense be watching over every woman Cosmetics. “and when they don’t, for that age. obviously, they can’t as she buys her lipstick.” you’re like, ‘What do you mean? wear them very long.” relatively speaking: her image it all goes together. So what do her upcoming fashion pre- will appear on in-store visuals we do with this?’ So that was sentation isn’t the only project for Brown’s products. new, but i think that’s kind of on holmes’ already overloaded Staying grounded? holmes a life thing — ‘What, you don’t plate. on Nov. 29, she’ll open credits her Midwestern upbring- want all of me?’” on Broadway in the comedy ing and crafts with her daughter holmes, along with business “Dead accounts,” which she for helping to keep her feet on partner Jeanne Yang, will stage postponed a movie to work on. the ground. “i spray-paint shoe

holmes & Yang’s first New York She joked about the timing, racks, because, why not?” But Fashion Week presentation given that she was doing arthur she says with a laugh that said on Wednesday. Clad in a long- Miller’s “all My Sons” four projects aren’t always success- sleeve cream silk blouse from years ago when Barack obama ful: “i think, ‘oh, i’m a great her fall line, the actress sipped was elected President. “i have mom’ — and then it doesn’t re- coffee with soy milk as she an- to fix this — [Broadway proj- ally pan out the way i think it’s

swered questions ranging from ects] can’t just be every four going to. But the intention’s the origins of her ready-to-wear years,” she said with a laugh. there. i’ve always painted and label to the scope of her new turning serious, she added, done crafts at home — i have to beauty deal. “it’s a medium i really enjoy.” stay creative in every aspect [of the 33-year-old holmes will She’s not bothered by having my life]. My sister teaches art, appear as the first celebrity face to perform every night. “i’m a and she gives me a lot of ideas.” for the 21-year-old Bobbi Brown ’’ schedule person. i like to have leslie Sloane, holmes’ publicist, brand. according to executives, a routine. You’re also very in offers in an aside: “She’s a really she also will act as the brand’s touch with your audience — good decoupager.” muse and a full-blown col- they’re very much a part of the holmes noted that she en- laborator. her face will appear show, which is obviously some- joys trying something new every in a new ad campaign, due to thing you don’t have in film. You day, without “being afraid to break next spring, as well as on- get to know people in a differ- fail. Who cares? at least you counter visuals at point of sale. ent way. the matinee audience tried. it’s usually the people in fall 2013, her name will ap- is obviously very different from who haven’t tried who are the pear on a capsule collection of sullivan the Saturday night audience. naysayers.” on her list of things color cosmetics. While holmes, Yo u learn about material — to try: directing, as well as

Brown and executives from the stephen you really start to understand more producing. “i executive- estée lauder Cos. inc., which what works and what doesn’t. produced a film called “the owns the brand, declined com- Katie Holmes and Bobbi Brown i think both film and stage are romantics,” and i do have inter- ment on details of holmes’ con- photo by so challenging, but in different est in producing and directing in tract with the brand, ways. With film, yeah, you have a few years.” industry sources es- evolved from basics, but not too another take, but a lot of the holmes’ next film is an as- timated the actress is far. they’re just nice, well-made time you’re losing the light, so yet-untitled project directed by being paid between $2 There are a lot of people luxury items that highlight the you better nail it on that take. i Christian Camargo, in which million and $3 million woman wearing them.” Price haven’t found any part of acting she stars with William hurt. “it over the course of a with much bigger points start from about $700 and to be easy.” was an amazing experience, for multiyear deal. range to $3,000, she said. “We the press’ voracious inter- sure,” she said, noting the film is While person- have a lot of casual, and gowns, est in everything from holmes’ set for a 2013 debut. “Wonderful able, holmes adeptly problems and who are some unique jackets.” Details choices at Whole Foods to actors — allison Janney, Juliet sidestepped ques- include shirts lined in silk — which label her young daughter rylance, Mark rylance, Michael tions that veered too less fortunate. I try “the silky part of the shirt is on is wearing on every given day Nyqvist, Cherry Jones.” far into the personal your body all day,” she said. was considered a plus by the as for future film projects, realm — as with the Yang worked as holmes’ estée lauder Cos. When John holmes is adamant that she not topic of where her to keep it all in stylist for five years before the Demsey, group president of the be pigeonholed into one par- six-year-old daugh- two founded their brand. “She estée lauder Cos., was asked ticular type of role. “as an ac- ter, Suri Cruise, will perspective. has incredible taste, and i look if the notoriety surrounding tress looking for new characters start school this fall to her for a lot of guidance,” holmes’ marital breakup is a that have something to say — i (reportedly academy — Katie Holmes, on dealing holmes said of Yang. “i’ll have plus or a minus, he laughed and always try to find projects that of the Sacred heart). an idea, and i’ll say, ‘Jeanne, is replied that this is “a significant have a purpose and a message, all holmes would say witH tHe paparazzi this good or is it not?’ and she opportunity.” industry sources and a real character — someone was, “they’ll find out gives her opinion, and she’s very estimate the size of the Bobbi who either is flawed in a way in due time.” at retail, said holmes. generous. She comes from one Brown business at more than we feel accessible to them or as Despite the press’ frenzied a presentation rather than way of looking at things, i come $500 million at wholesale. a character you go to the mov- efforts to ferret out the smallest a full-blown show felt right, from another, and we always the ad campaign will be shot ies and want to be.” She noted of details regarding her past few said holmes. “We’ve been very meet in the middle and are very by tom Munro, according to in- that she’d also love to work with months (ignited by her high-pro- gradual from the beginning, and appreciative of the other person. dustry sources. “this all came Woody allen: “i love ‘hannah file divorce from tom Cruise), part of that has been because We’ve never, in all this time, got- together eight weeks ago, when and her Sisters’ so much.” she doesn’t trash the Fourth we’ve wanted to take the time ten into a fight over a look. it’s Katie and i were introduced by a For her part, holmes noted estate: “i have a lot of feelings to get to know the business, get usually like, ‘oh, really? Yeah, mutual friend,” said Brown. that she’s enjoying collaborat- about the press,” she said with a to know the right stores — and, that’s perfect! i’m so glad you one can draw certain par- ing with Brown. “this is my first smile. “there are a lot of people most importantly,’’ to get to know thought of that.’ it sounds like, allels between holmes and foray into beauty products and with much bigger problems and the customer and what she ‘Yeah, right,’ but it’s true. even Brown: Both are from the the evolution of a look,” she who are less fortunate. i try to needs. in terms of the presenta- when i’m leaving the house, i’m Midwest (holmes from toledo, said. “ Yo u want the hair and keep it all in perspective.” tion versus the show, we felt a like, ‘Jeanne, is it good?’ ohio; Brown from Chicago), both makeup to support the woman, But she grows animated presentation was more appro- “When Jeanne and i decided are entrepreneurs and both em- just like you want the clothes to when speaking about her priate for the clothes we sell. to do this — we’re both moth- anate a girl-next-door vibe. Both support the woman. Yo u don’t holmes & Ya n g collection, it’s a little more our speed in ers; our daughters are very good share a passion for natural-look- want to lose the woman. that’s which launched at Maxfield’s the way we wanted to go about friends — and i said, ‘Jeanne, ing makeup. Both are devoted how Jeanne and i design.” and is carried by such retail- it, and more of a transition for this has to be something that we mothers. “We had tea in the af- “the girl next door has built ers as Barneys New York and us from meeting privately with enjoy, because we want to do it ternoon, and we bonded,” Brown a career,” said Maureen Case, Dallas boutique Forty Five ten. buyers in a hotel room to going with our girls here.’ We started recalled. “and then it was, ‘oh, president of specialty brands at She and Yang chose this season right to a big show.” off because we wanted to have my god, you would be the per- the estée lauder Cos. “She has to stage their first formal New holmes describes the shirts that were well-made and fect face for Bobbi.’ We weren’t taken the bull by the horns and York Fashion Week presenta- holmes & Yang aesthetic as went with everything. i just looking for a celebrity, just a moved forward.”

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10 WWD thursday, september 6, 2012 WWD.COM Macy’s Pumps Up the Luxe {Continued from page one} of the four shops, but its square footage A rendering of the Macy’s luxury hall on the 35th Street side of the flagship. was not disclosed. Vuitton and Gucci will be right off the main Broadway entrance, on the 34th Street and 35th Street sides, respec- tively. Burberry and Longchamp will be right behind. Macy’s, in conjunction with Studio V, designed the luxury hall. Vuitton’s track record at Herald Square has been “spectacular,” said Lundgren. “I am sure other luxury brands have noticed, which is why it was an easy sell to add these other luxury brands. We never actually approached them before, but when we described our vision for the renovation of the flagship, it was clear they wanted to be part of it.” Lundgren also pointed out that this is the first time a concentration of luxury is coming to Herald Square. “That is a major motivation for these luxury brands. They have no representation” in the Herald Square market. With Macy’s, he added, “There’s an assurance of excellent luxu- ry customer traffic. We know so many of these customers do not venture uptown. “When we were contemplating this renovation,” Lundgren continued, “we knew we didn’t want it to be another one some level of luxury, particularly hand- dropped ceilings, mechanical equipment, entrances are being transformed into of those projects which you come back to bags and footwear, and that’s something and endless renovations that cut off sight welcoming “portals”; the marble mosaic a year or two later and decide you have that has not been strongly represented at lines and obscured the original architec- floors are being extended; LED lighting is to change the floor again. We decided Macy’s Herald Square.” ture. The renovation aims to eliminate being added, and escalators and “grand” we were going to do this just one time. Two years ago, a master plan for the the claustrophobia by uncovering win- staircases will be created to lead to the We traveled around the world, through- flagship was conceived to remodel virtual- dows, pushing the Broadway escalators mezzanine and luxury shops. out Europe, to Paris, Madrid, London, to ly all of the 1.1 million square feet of sell- 50 feet back into the store, raising ceil- The high-end feeling is sustained with Japan, China, Korea, to think of the best ing space in the 2.2 million-square-foot ings, providing long vistas down two wide luxury accessories leading to renovated ideas to create the most exciting depart- flagship, which generates $850 million main aisles so as not to miss anything, and areas for Coach, Michael Kors, Dooney ment store in the world. In all cases, the in annual sales. Over the years, Macy’s maximizing the best categories like ac- & Bourke and Ralph Lauren accessories retailers we were most excited by had floors got divided and filled up with walls, cessories and shoes. The flagship already on one. Similarly on two, the luxury shoe boasts the world’s largest shoe floor at shops lead to the designer shoe salon 39,000 square feet for selling. Macy’s is including Calvin Klein, Donald Pliner out to restore the original grandeur and and Charles Jourdan. On Saturday, the architectural features of the 110-year- Herald Square Cafe opened on the sec- old Beaux-Arts site (the Seventh Avenue ond floor serving Champagne, Vosges building was added in 1937), including gourmet chocolates and Starbucks the iconic wood escalators and fluted Reserve. It overlooks Herald Square and columns, but with a clean, white and is separated from designer shoes by a contemporary environment. wall of glass embedded with fabric. In a tour of the luxury construction, Could all this upscaling intimi- Tom Herndon, senior vice president date Macy’s core middle-class market? FASHION of store design, said customers will be Lundgren thinks not. “The way we laid impressed by the feeling of entering “a out the store, we are still Macy’s, but this great hall of retail originally conceived is a very unique location. We need to be in 1902” that captures the past gran- able to satisfy all of our customer de- deur and extends to fragrances and mands. From all the data, and we study CAREERS cosmetics. our customers very closely, there is a Macy’s also intends to increase the high level of demand for luxury products selling space by 100,000 square feet, in Macy’s Herald Square,” particularly including extending the mezzanine handbags, accessories and shoes. Luxury COME IN DIFFERENT SIZES: by 11,000 square feet, and creating ready-to-wear appears not to be in the two, 200-square-foot cutouts by the cards, though in the Eighties Herald Broadway escalators so there’s a strong Square had a department called Little visual connection linking the luxury Shops selling expensive designer rtw. and shoe floors. Asked if a luxury buildup could occur at In other upgrades, there will be other Macy’s locations, too, Lundgren re- S, M, L an express elevator to the sixth floor, plied, “I am primarily focused on Herald where a restaurant opens in November; Square because of the tourist element.” AND NYC www.limcollege.edu/wwd

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Macy’s Broadway entrance is being restored to its original grandeur.

w06a010a;7.indd 1 9/5/12 7:00 PM 09052012190051

12 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2012 FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Honoring Oscar WWD.com/eye. NEW YORK — Oscar de la Renta New York on Madison Avenue],” Bloomberg, who presented was honored Wednesday with she said, referring to her the award to de la Renta, said, the Couture Council’s Award for book about her late husband, “Oscar has always been vocal Artistry at a luncheon that drew “Stephan Weiss: Connecting about making sure others have 1,000 guests, including longtime the Dots.” Karan said de la the opportunities he had. He customers and members of the Renta had a profound effect founded schools and a home younger generation. on her career. “He was my first for orphans in [his native] The event, held at the David mentor,” she said. Dominican Republic. I’m H. Koch Theater at Lincoln Liz Peek, chairwoman of the proud to call him a friend, and Center, raised more than $1 council’s board of directors, that’s the reason Diana [Taylor, million for The Museum at FIT. poked fun at Mayor Michael Bloomberg’s companion] is Henry Kissinger Donna Karan Donna Karan, who was sitting at Bloomberg, painting him as wearing Oscar today.” and Annette de and Oscar de de la Renta’s table, was pleased sartorially challenged. “He “I’m an unbelievably lucky la Renta la Renta because “I signed off on DKNY only has two pairs of shoes, one man,” de la Renta said when he last night,” she said. “I like it. black and one brown and he took the podium. “I love what The Collection, we’ll discuss alternates between them,” she I do.” But he also took aim at Karan and Bush hit it off. at a later date. I have Urban said, adding that all his suits celebrities who blithely launch Explaining that her connection Zen and there’s Stephan’s book are olive, so you don’t know if collections with no fashion to Oscar goes way back, Karan launch [today at Donna Karan he has one suit or many. training. “Today, if you play launched into stories of the tennis, you can be a really good infamous 1973 benefit dubbed STEVE EICHNER designer,” de la Renta said. “Or, by WWD as the “Battle of if you’re an actress, you can be Versailles,” which she attended a designer. I’ve been at it for 45 with her boss Anne Klein. PHOTOS BY eye years and I’m still learning my Bush was intrigued. By the craft on a daily basis.” end of the event, the two were De la Renta managed to pull arranging a lunch date. in a slew of his peers, including Simon Doonan presided over Diane von Furstenberg, Carolina an auction that included a stay Herrera, Josie Natori and Isabel at de la Renta’s estate in the and Ruben Toledo. The designer Dominican Republic. Two seats to filled his table with women who the designer’s fashion show were reflected the cross-generational snapped up by von Furstenberg appeal of his clothes. Besides for $12,000. It was suggested lunch De la Renta and Nancy Kissinger and Barbara Bush, with Doonan go under the gavel Mayor Michael the granddaughter of the former and bids were solicited. “ Yo u can Bloomberg first lady, there was Sarah Jessica order what ever you want,” said Parker at the table, and Eliza a council rep. “A Bolen, executive vice president drink is included. of Oscar de la Renta, and his Dessert! He’s going wife, Annette’s, daughter. Bush, to sleep with you as who wore artfully bejeweled well.” The package Sarah Jessica baby blue, said, “I’m going back went for $3,000. Barbara and Parker to the office in this. Just another — SHARON Jenna Bush Wednesday at work.” EDELSON AND Political affiliations aside, BRIDGET FOLEY Carine Roitfeld Unveils CR Fashion Book

NEW YORK — Carine Roitfeld better to be Alexander Wang than from the ad community has re- CR Fashion Book is will send forth her CR Fashion Balenciaga,” said Roitfeld. flected itself in something quite headed by publisher Book magazine on newsstands The launch will be celebrat- lucrative for us. It hasn’t been as Jorge Garcia — with Sept. 13 with a fatter issue than ed on Saturday at a black-tie much of a struggle as I thought it a direct assist from expected. The 340-page debut party at the Frick Collection, would be with how are we going Roitfeld, who met personally with issue sold 140 pages of advertis- sponsored by Mercedes-Benz. to pay for this first issue.” marketers like David Lauren, ing, outpacing the original plan Overall, 50,000 copies of CR Gan established Fashion executive vice president of ad- Carine for 100 pages of ads. Brands Fashion Book will be distrib- Media Group LLC earlier this vertising, marketing and corpo- Roitfeld that bought in include Giorgio uted, with a cover price of $15. year to serve as the umbrella rate communications at Ralph Armani, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Tom That compares to a circulation of publisher of Visionaire, V, V Lauren Corp. A small team of Ford, Chanel and Estée Lauder. 55,000 in print and 45,000 via digi- Man and CR Fashion Book. editors — including editorial di- Every ad in the new twice- tal subscriptions for V magazine. About 90 percent of CR’s rector Christopher Bartley, man- a-year title is a double-page “We all know what the pub- launch issue is dedicated to aging editor Steven Chaiken and spread and includes a six-month lishing industry is like these days. fashion shoots and 10 percent to senior fashion editor Michaela presence on crfashionbook.com, The cost of shoots keeps going features and stories. A rep for Dosamantes — work out of the which launched Tuesday, for an up and the cost of paper keeps the magazine declined to reveal Standard East hotel in New York. official package rate of $40,000. going up. So the break-even point the cover subject but confirmed The partnership between A number of premium positions is constantly changing,” said Bruce Weber shot it. According to Roitfeld and Gan was initi- in the front of the book were sold Stephen Gan, Roitfeld’s business sources, Weber shot model Kate ated by the latter in the wake of to advertisers who took multiple partner in the project and design Upton in Miami for the magazine. Roitfeld’s exit from the editor spreads, while the remainder director of the title, of the eco- Also shooting for the title is in chief post of French Vogue in of ads are positioned alphabeti- nomics of new venture. “But you Michael Avedon, the college-age January 2011. “My goal was to re- cally through the book. “So it’s know, the very positive reaction grandson of Richard Avedon. ally provide her with the frame- ERICKSEN KYLE “It’s a bridge between legends work and the publishing struc- and newborn talent. Avedon has ture,” said Gan, who is editor in PHOTO BY a beautiful name but he’s new chief of V and creative director at FERRARI and fresh,” explained Roitfeld. Harper’s Bazaar. There are sev- she chose to perform it.” A similar tack is taken with eral silent investors in Fashion Roitfeld is launching a lim- models. “We have big girls — I Media Group, said Gan. Roitfeld ited edition color cosmetics line PIERPAOLO will say angels to protect the herself has an ownership stake in with MAC this fall and appears BY magazine — like Lara Stone and CR Fashion Book. in its advertising campaign,

PHOTO Linda Evangelista and Stephanie “After her so-called break-up shot by Mario Sorrenti. She also Seymour. But also very new mod- [with French Vogue], it felt natural styled fall ad campaigns for Dior els that no one knows.” to propose that we do something and Givenchy. The magazine forgos a tradi- together,” said Gan. “It’s been “When I was at Vogue, I had a tional front-of-book section, rel- great proof to me that it’s a per- lot of freedom. But I was still in egating those kind of short items son who’s important over title. In a beautiful golden cage. I could to its Web site. The magazine philosophy, there’s a difference not do a campaign with Karl is published on a heavy matte between self power and object-re- Lagerfeld or launch a line with paper stock. ferral power, or power that is asso- MAC,” said Roitfeld. “I want to Gan and Roitfeld have a long ciated to title and positions,” said do all these propositions. I think history of working together, with Gan. “Not to sound too New Age, its fun. This magazine is a project Roitfeld styling the very first but I always felt Carine had true to do between all the other crazy cover of V magazine in September self power. It wasn’t so much the projects I have. I want to enjoy, Images from the launch issue of CR Fashion Book. 1999. The advertising effort at context of the medium or where you know?” — DAVID LIPKE WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2012 13 WWD.COM Ruling Backs Validity The Colors of Spring Of Louboutin Trademark practicality that we are seeing in society. Yo u By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG have to realize there is still concern out there {Continued from page one} The legal community and fash- for the economy,” Eiseman said. Although Wednesday’s deci- ion lawyers may have thought WITH NO INCOME TAX, zero unemployment In fact, the top five spring colors for women sion lifts the proverbial monop- he had been getting bigger than and the world’s highest life-expectancy rate, — Monaco Blue, Dusk Blue, Emerald, Grayed oly that Louboutin had on all- his robe. This decision may have Monaco has a lot to offer. This spring, de- Jade and Linen — are all shades that can be red shoes, the case also touches trimmed it back down to size.” signers will be channeling that picturesque easily blended into consumers’ existing ward- on a larger question — namely Setting that aside, Scafidi principality — although not di- robes. Noting how Dusk Blue has whether designers can use color said the two parties would like- rectly — with Monaco Blue, the FOR A LOOK AT THE “kind of a quiet, calming sense of as a trademark in fashion. ly settle the matter out of court season’s leading color for women TOP 10 COLORS IN serenity,” Eiseman said, “There Brands such as Tiffany & before proceed- MEN’S, SEE and men, according to Pantone is sort of a stop-the-world-I-want- Co. with its signature blue box; A Christian ing further. Still, Color Institutes’s executive direc- to-get-off feeling. People want de- Hermès with its orange de- Louboutin there is a chance WWD.com/ peep-toe tor, Leatrice Eiseman. markets-news. pendably stable colors.” signs, and Cartier with its that Louboutin Not a dark navy, Monaco Blue That being said, there is still red packaging might have shoe. and YSL will has more of a maritime cast to room for more Pop Art-inspired come under fire if the court face off in court, as the it, but it is also a practical purchase for any hues, with Poppy Red, African Violet, Tender cancelled Louboutin’s mark. case gets kicked back wardrobe, with more than half the population Shoots, Lemon Zest and Nectarine ranking “The two key elements we to Judge Marrero, who listing blue as a favorite hue. “It speaks to the sixth through 10th, respectively. sought answered were that will now evaluate color can be a trademark in YSL’s counterclaims. the fashion industry and that In those claims, YSL our trademark is valid and seeks cancelation TOP 10 WOMEN’S PANTONE COLORS FOR SPRING enforceable — thank God,” of Louboutin’s said Harley Lewin, lawyer mark on the for Christian Louboutin, of grounds that the MONACO BLUE DUSK BLUE the ruling. Trademark and That sentiment Patent Office awarded the 19-3964 16-4120 was shared by trademark fraudulently. designer Diane Proving that will be “ex- Percentage of designers Percentage of designers von Furstenberg. tremely tough,” said Gibney 1 13.2% 2 12.6% who used this color: who used this color: Although she Anthony & Flaherty partner was not speak- Brian Brokate, who is an expert ing on behalf of the in intellectual property law. Not a bright cobalt or sapphire blue, Monaco Blue fails some- Surprised as Eiseman was to see this shade in the second- Council of Fashion Designers of “Still, I definitely think YSL has where in between with a shot of sparkle. Tommy Hilfiger is a fan, place slot, she said it speaks to the calm many consumers are America, of which she serves as the advantage,” he said, remark- as are Lela Rose, Hervé Léger and Tia Cibani. Hilfiger believes looking for in their hectic lives. “This is sort of a Zen blue,” she president, von Furstenberg laud- ing that YSL is now essentially the deep navy is a preppy staple that looks good on everyone, and said. Karen Walker, Cushnie et Ochs and Marimekko’s Noora ed what she referred to as “great plaintiff, as the counterclaims are his daughter Alexandria is also mad about blue. She and Nary Niinikoski agree. news” for Louboutin. all that’s left to settle. “I’ve seen Manivong opted for Monaco Blue their NAHM collection. “All I can say is that it makes this before where one party bites me have faith in the system,” off more than it can chew.” she offered. Brokate was quick to point The legal community was a out that the appeals court did EMERALD GRAYED JADE bit more even-handed on the put in a unique provision in its 17-5641 14-6011 verdict, dubbing the ruling a victory for Percentage of designers Percentage of designers both sides. 3 11.9% 4 11.3% Lawyers pointed who used this color: who used this color: to the fact that the court upheld Judge

It took a few years but the 115-carat emerald green earrings “There has been a substantial use of green which has long Marrero’s denial of a Angelina Jolie wore to the Academy Awards seem to have had been popular, and it will continue to be,” Eiseman said. “It preliminary injunc- a hand in this spring’s color palette. “There is no question that gives you a little more leverage. It has a sophisticated touch tion to stop the sale what the stars wear creeps into people’s consciousness. It gets that people can relate to.” Look for it in the collections of Peter of the all-red pump, embedded in your mind,” Eiseman said. “You might see another Som, Wes Gordon and Marimekko. while simultaneously photo of that same color and it has a positive effect. It builds questioning his read- up your confidence in that color.” ing of how color is used as a trademark in fashion. Judge Marrero had LINEN POPPY RED argued that no one 12-1008 17-1664 should have a “mo- nopoly” on a ·· color, instead of examining Percentage of designers Percentage of designers 5 10.7% 6 10.1% whether the public associates order that would allow it to take who used this color: who used this color: red soles with Louboutin. That over the case following any con- association, called “secondary cerns over Marrero’s decision. “Another version of the kind of nude shade that almost Red is another standby for spring, but this shade has more of meaning,” is vital in trademark Normally, this would require disappears,” linen is a neutral that blends well with many a snap to it. Popular as the tone has been in recent seasons, cases, and the appeals court another long appeals process. other colors, Eiseman said. It also suits a bevy of different skin it is gaining ground beyond lipsticks and nail polish with more noted that the judge overlooked “I’ve never seen anything tones. Just ask Pamela Roland, who has used it for spring. consumers wearing it in their attire. that tenant. like this before,” Brokate said. “Judge Marrero went way off “Clearly, the Court of Appeals is the reservation with the last very interested in this issue and AFRICAN VIOLET TENDER SHOOTS opinion,” said Susan Scafidi, di- they want to see if something 16-3520 14-0446 The two key elements we sought Percentage of designers Percentage of designers 7 9.4% 8 7.5% who used this color: who used this color: answered were that color can be a

Purple is another repeat performer in Pantone’s ongoing top 10 Economists may still be debating whether the green shoots of the trademark in the fashion industry color story. “African violet is not a bright, knock-your-socks-off economy are real or imagined, but Pantone is confident that this purple,” but it still has a little kick to it, Eiseman said. lively yellow-green will be well represented for spring. and that our trademark is valid and enforceable — thank God. NECTARINE LEMON ZEST — HARLEY LEWIN, LAWYER FOR LOUBOUTIN 13-0756 16-1360

Percentage of designers Percentage of designers rector of Fordham University’s occurs outside the scope their 10 THOMAS IANNACCONE 9 6.9% 6.4% Fashion Law Institute, who opinion. But at the end of the who used this color: who used this color: underscored that Wednesday’s day, I don’t think today’s verdict verdict provides a guideline for changes anything. It certainly “This is really a strong attention-getter,” Eiseman said. “There is definitely a huge orange movement. I am just astounded Marrero to view the rest of the confirms most of what we al- “The more you see it, the more you like it.” that I see it no matter where I go in the world,” Eiseman said. case. “This decision is the equiv- ready knew, which is that a color PHOTO BY LOUBOUTIN alent of sending him a checklist. can function as a·· trademark.” 2.5x7 (left)

14 WWD thUrsday, september 6, 2012

introduce a wider range of subjects on the contents page.” Ranking Retailers’ Digital IQs MeMo pad Coles has a reader in mind, and she’s not just a Millennial — the smaller retailers could compete with the COLES ON SEX AND COSMO: A day after audience Cosmo’s competitor Glamour By RACHEL STRuGATz major players — the one-door Bergdorf she was named the new editor in chief is targeting lately. Goodman is a perfect example with its of Cosmopolitan, Joanna Coles was in “The 20s and 30s for young women NEW YORK — Social media is starting ever-evolving social media presence — Charlotte, N.C., moderating a town is a very interesting, challenging time,” to play a smaller role in overall digital but this is no longer the case. hall that featured Sen. Kirsten Gillibrand, she said. “You have the expectation of initiatives as e-commerce becomes the Because it’s invested more in e-com- Florida congressional candidate Val a great, expansive life where you can most important aspect of retailers’ on- merce than social media, Saks Fifth Demings and Ashley Judd. Rep. Nancy Pelosi, have a great career, and you can find a line strategies. Avenue’s Web site earned the num- Secretary of Health and Human Services partner and you can have children, be it At least that’s what New York ber-10 spot in the study (up 8 percent Kathleen Sebelius and Sen. Patty Murray were with gay friends or be it with a surrogate university Luxury Lab, or L2, believes. year-over-year). It’s for this same rea- in the crowd of the Knight Theater. or on your own. Cosmo needs to cover all The think tank today will release its son that Bergdorf Goodman fell from “Some of you may know — I didn’t — those issues.” third annual Digital IQ Index ranking the 22nd spot last year to 54th in 2012. that Cosmo has an app for sex position Marie Claire and Emily’s List co- retailers according to their online com- While the luxury department store is in of the day,” Coles said at the start. “And sponsored the town hall, and Coles petence. The study includes 76 global an elite top five of retailers in respect someone asked me what my sex position said she hopes Cosmo can move in the brands and measures them on more to social media, it’s been slower to up- of the day was.” Beat. “Frankly, if we’re direction of branded events as well. than 675 data points spanning four met- grade its e-commerce operation, ac- both awake, that’s good enough for me.” Besides a shift in tone, and some rics divided in the following way: 40 per- cording to Mullen. Then, “If Republicans get in, none staff swaps, she did not anticipate other cent Web site, 30 percent digital market- Other disappointments this year: of us will be having sex, so it won’t major changes. Marie Claire’s publisher, ing, 20 percent mobile and 10 percent Bluefly’s Digital IQ dropped 45 percent matter.” Rimshot! Nancy Cardone, with whom Coles has social media. year-over-year, Diesel’s by 44 percent, The panel doubled as a preview a good rapport and delivered the For the second year in a row, Macy’s Brooks Brothers by 36 percent and of Coles’ Cosmo. She’ll keep the girl- magazine’s best September, is expected took the top spot, followed by Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus by 29 percent. On the friendly tone that’s always been its to stay put. — ERiK MAzA Victoria’s Secret, Sephora and flip side, White House|Black Market’s trademark without giving up the socially American Eagle Outfitters. J.C. Penney, high site and customer service scores aware features that were commonplace HAWKE TO CHANEL: Ellie Hawke is joining Bloomingdale’s, Crate & Barrel, Gap and helped propel its ranking up 37 percent, at Marie Claire. Chanel Inc. as vice president of public Saks Fifth Avenue rounded out the top 10. followed by Lululemon by 36 percent, Limits to women’s health care, relations of fashion, watches and fine Maureen Mullen, L2 director of re- Swatch by 33 percent and Tumi and Todd Akin, “gender inequality and the jewelry, effective Nov. 1. Hawke was search and advisory, noted that the Banana Republic by 29 percent. patriarchy,” as Judd put it, were all most recently vice president of public weighting around social media was re- Another big story this year is Amazon 14: memo; socialmediaL2; Hogan (1 pic) discussed during the hourlong panel. relations at Christian Dior Couture, duced considerably in this year’s study — which currently commands 37 per- Cosmo could even get more political. where she spent the past four years. — it was cut in half from 20 percent last cent of domestic mobile commerce (the “I don’t think you can have a magazine At Chanel, she will be taking over year. That wasn’t because social media most rapidly growing commerce chan- that’s about confidence and sex without responsibilities from iana dos Reis Nunes, isn’t important but because it hasn’t lived nel). Mullen calls Amazon “the big-box referring to the politics around women’s who left the house in July, and report up to the hype and the lack of metrics e-tailer” that’s changing online shop- health care,” Coles said after the directly to Rebekah McCabe, Chanel’s that illustrate how social leads directly ping as we know it — citing the intro- panel. Like several women’s magazines senior vice president of creative services to sales still makes for an uncertain in- duction of Amazon Prime as one of the — Glamour and Seventeen, among and public relations. vestment for many retailers and brands. biggest innovations in the space in the them — Marie Claire is covering the In related news, McCabe’s role “There are now retailers driving 25 past 15 years. conventions — it has two editors and at Chanel has also expanded. The percent of more of sales through their “The primary difference between in- a blogger in Charlotte. Cosmo does not executive is adding store design and in- e-commerce channel, and we really be- store and e-commerce is that in-store have a presence here. “It might have store animation for fragrance and beauty lieve that the percentage of sales that gives you a sense of immediacy that you a bit more breadth,” Coles said of her to her existing responsibilities. an organization is doing online and how can instantly fulfill the purchase. What new magazine. “What I’d like to do is — MARC KARiMzADEH fast that percentage is growing could be Amazon has effectively done is lower the primary differentiator from the win- that barrier of entry,” Mullen said, add- ners and the losers in the specialty retail ing that, now, retailers like Macy’s are space,” Mullen told WWD. looking into same-day delivery options She said that Macy’s online sales are within large metro areas. This means now more than $2.25 billion annually that Macy’s might soon be able to ful- PROMOTION and, for the first time, there is a corre- fill an online purchase out of any of its lation between the size of a company’s stores nationwide. “This will allow them business and its Digital IQ. Previously, to begin to compete with Amazon in Your customer Mullen viewed digital as an area where terms of that immediacy.” knows social media Katie Grand Designs for Hogan is slightly bigger, can be worn across the By SAMANTHA CONTI body and goes from day to night. better than you do. The sunglasses have mirror lenses LONDON — The fashion stylist and maga- with fluorescent pink, yellow and zine editor Katie Grand is stepping out of blue frames. the backstage area and into the limelight “We are very excited about this new with her first collection for the Italian collaboration,” said Andrea Della Valle, footwear and accessories brand president of Hogan and vice president FILL THE VOID Hogan, which will be unveiled in of the Tod’s Group. “Katie’s tal- Milan later this month. ent and great energy are per- The editor of Love magazine fect for Hogan. We believe has designed a capsule collec- this new project to be in tion that includes three foot- line with the international wear styles, two bags and a spirit of the brand and its pair of sunglasses. easy-chic lifestyle.” “The collection has the The collection, which Hogan identity, but it’s will be presented on Sept. more fashion, and I’ve 19 during Milan Fashion added a bit of femininity,” Week, will hit Hogan said Grand. “Everyone stores and selected re- loves Hogans, but quite tailers in January. Grand often they can feel like photographed the ad “LIKES” ARE IN THE BAG boys’ shoes.” campaign on 12 mod- Grand worked with els, and the details of Connect with Lucky’s largest two existing Hogan the campaign will be audience in history and reach the styles, and created one revealed at the Milan category’s most af uent reader. new one. There’s a high event. Median HHI: $88,084* heel, a ballet pump and This isn’t the a sneaker. The exteriors first time Hogan has Mulberry “Bayswater” bag, $1,250 are patent leather with worked with outside suede and mesh details talent: Karl Lagerfeld and napa interiors, while designs a capsule collec- the color palette includes Shoes from Katie Grand tion of footwear and out- fluorescent pink, Lego blue, for Hogan. erwear for the brand. FILL YOUR VOID WITH LUCKY bright yellow, jade green, Grand described her black and white. move into the world of She described the smaller of the two product design as being “completely ter- bags as big enough to carry essentials rifying. I have to hold these designs up, *Source: MRI Doublebase 2012, Ranked vs. Allure, Cosmopolitan, Elle, Glamour, Harper’s Bazaar, InStyle, Marie Claire, Vogue — including a BlackBerry, an iPhone, a and everything has to be right. And I’m credit card and a key — but small enough not used to having the final sign-off. I am to sling around the wrist. The other bag super nervous.”

w06a014a.indd 14 9/5/12 8:39 PM 09052012204028 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2012 15 WWD.COM

Kolb, CFDA ceo, said the partnership a Chinese fine dining restaurant in the is for a two-year commitment. CFDA restored, former Chinese Chamber of FASHION SCOOPS president Diane von Furstenberg said, “All Commerce, the first of its kind in the good collaborations favor both the hotel country and which dates back to 1900. and the designer. This is one more thing — LUISA ZARGANI that we are able to do to help the young TRACY’S TURN: Michelle fashionistas clapped designer.” — VICKI M. YOUNG SHARE SALE: To increase trading liquidity Obama wore a Tracy and gasped as each of Luxottica Group shares, Delfin Sarl, Reese dress Tuesday look came down the WEB RE-DO: Kimberly Ovitz has re-launched the holding controlled by the Italian night to give her runway: Fair Isle her e-commerce site, which went live eyewear giant’s founder and chairman convention speech. knits, denim blazers, Tuesday. The site includes several Leonardo Del Vecchio, is selling around 7 The sleeveless dress, tweed princess coats, new features, including multiple views percent of its shares, or a maximum of a silk jacquard with a shearling vests, velvet of products, video capabilities, zoom 33 million ordinary shares, through an baroque pattern, was holiday dresses and functionality, a drop down shopping accelerated book-building offer. Price of a mix of hot pink, plenty of plaids for cart, social media sharing, a “you shares and the final size of the offering rust and copper. both day and evening. may also like” feature and exclusive will be determined after closure of “It showed off her — ANTONIA SARDONE content about what’s happening in the the books and no additional sale will amazing figure and studio, said Ovitz. The site offers both follow, said Del Vecchio. According to her beauty and NESTING INSTINCT: Kimberly Ovitz and the diffusion line, Italy’s Bourse watchdog, Consob, Delfin strength,” said Tracy Tengram Capital O by Kimberly Ovitz. The new site was has 66.5 percent of Luxottica, which Reese. Reese told Partners, which has designed in-house. — L.L. produces collections for brands such WWD that she got a investments in Robert as Burberry, Chanel and Prada, among request and “we did Graham and the firm HEADING EAST: Bulgari Hotels & Resorts others. — L.Z. our best to come up that licenses out the has signed an agreement with with something that William Rast and developer OCT Group for a new PORSCHE REVS UP WOMEN’S: Porsche fit the occasion. People’s Liberation hotel in Shanghai due to open Design celebrated its 40th “We didn’t know brands, has reached in 2015. The project will be anniversary in Los Angeles Tuesday she was going to Michelle an agreement to take unveiled today in the Chinese night at the Sheats Goldstein house wear it until she Obama wore a “significant stake” metropolis. This will be the designed by John Lautner. The stepped out. Our Web Tracy Reese for in Nest Fragrances, fourth hotel for the luxury brand, which originally comprised site was about to her speech at WWD has learned. brand, following openings in both men’s and women’s collections crash,” said Reese. the Democratic The candle and Milan in 2004, in Bali in 2006 (the iconic aviator glasses were Obama National home fragrance and in London in June, originally designed for women), accessorized with Convention. specialist is in and it will be located is relaunching its women’s rhubarb Everly the process of within a riverside offerings with apparel, shoes suede pumps from J. transforming into a complex development and handbags, some of which Crew ($245). — LISA LOCKWOOD “luxury fragrance and lifestyle brand” in the artistic district debuted last night during a and once the deal is closed later this of Suhe Creek. fashion presentation and on ELYSE KROLL SAID TO EXIT ENK: Elyse Kroll is month will continue to be led by founder The hotel will hostess Kate Beckinsale, who departing ENK International, the trade and chief executive officer Laura Slatkin. have 120 rooms carried the Twin bag in white. show company she founded in 1982 as Nest is expected to generate $60 million and suites and be Other iconic pieces ranging ENK Productions Ltd, according to in wholesale sales in the coming year. lodged in the 12 from knives to watches were sources. Kroll sold a substantial stake in — EVAN CLARK upper floors of the 40- displayed throughout the home ENK International to private investment story building designed all evening, and the brand plans firm Forstmann Little & Co. in 2006, SAKS CLOSURES: Saks Fifth Avenue by Foster + Partners. a formal show of the men’s and which also owns IMG. Kroll remained will close two stores, in Renaissance As the preceding women’s collection in New York with the company as chairman. Place in Highland Park, Ill., and in units, the interiors on Saturday. “We wanted to do a Early in her career, Kroll headed the Arboretum Market in Austin, Tex., will be designed by kind of MoMA for Porsche Design up public relations at The Collective both on Dec. 31. About 60 people are architectural firm in this house,” said ceo Juergen men’s wear show, which she ended employed in the Highland Park store, Antonio Citterio Gessler. “Our first retail store in up acquiring and growing into ENK and about 64 in the Austin unit. All Patricia Viel and the U.S. opened on Rodeo Drive International. Today, the company’s affected associates either will be offered Partners. in 1991, and L.A. is our biggest properties include the ENK NYC men’s transfer opportunities or will receive In addition to a market in the U.S., so we wanted show, Accessorie Circuit, Intermezzo severance packages. rooftop swimming to do an event here. Retail is very Collections, Children’s Club, the ENK Saks has already closed eight stores pool, a ballroom much a focus in the future.” After WSA shoe show, ENK Vegas men’s since 2010. Saks Inc. operates 45 Saks and a 21,600-square-foot the New York show, all the pieces show, Fashion Coterie, Sole Commerce Fifth Avenue stores, 64 Off 5th outlets spa, the hotel will comprise will be available in Porsche Designs’ and TMRW. and saks.com. Deborah Weinswig of Citi Kate Beckinsale 120 stores worldwide. — M.M. A representative for ENK said the Research reported that by closing the company had no comment at press time two stores, Saks sacrifices about $30 and that ENK president Tom Nastos was million in annual sales, which is less on vacation. E-mails and calls to Kroll, than 1 percent of the luxury chain’s Nastos and other ENK executives were total volume, but will realize a slight not returned by press time. — DAVID LIPKE improvement in its overall operating margin. — DAVID MOIN HIGH-LEVEL TALKS: Oh, to have been a fly on the wall. Luxury goods titan Bernard MUSEUM MUSIC: The Los Angeles Arnault, the richest man in France, had County Museum of Art announced For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. an audience Wednesday with France’s Wednesday that Grammy-nominated new Socialist government, whose band Florence + The Machine will campaign promises included a 75 perform at its second annual Art + percent tax rate for incomes over one Film Gala, taking place Oct. 27. The Spaces million euros, or $1.3 million. The tête-à- event, sponsored by Gucci, honors tête between the LVMH Moët Hennessy Ed Ruscha and Stanley Kubrick, with Louis Vuitton chief and France’s Prime the latter award being presented by COMMERCIAL Minister Jean-Marc Ayrault to discuss Steven Spielberg. Eva Chow and Leonardo REAL ESTATE the general economic situation DiCaprio will again cochair the Grading Foreman PRODUCTION ASS’T Experienced Only Reputable men’s apparel company of lasted about 40 minutes in the event. — MARCY MEDINA Fax resume to 631-385-2141 or 30 yrs looking to add a Production As- politician’s official residence, in Email: [email protected] sistant to assist in growth. Individual needs to have 8+ yrs experience in de- Paris. — JENNIFER WEIL W PARTNERS WITH CFDA: The tail oriented followup and communica- Council of Fashion Designers of 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes MERCHANDISER tion with overseas vendors. Knowledge WOMEN’S SCARVES in Walmart Retail Link a must and RALPH LAUREN GIRLS: Ralph America and W Hotels Worldwide Menswear Showrooms Winfashion a plus. Salary commensu- D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 Men’s Dress Furnishings firm expand- Lauren invited future style on Wednesday morning revealed ing into women’s accessories seeking rate with experience. Please email all merchandiser for women’s scarves. resumes to [email protected] icons to his Madison Avenue a partnership to bolster the Minimum 5 years merchandise man- office on Wednesday presence and awareness Showrooms & Lofts agement experience in better and BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS bridge women’s scarves necessary. Public Clothing Co. / Generra afternoon, hosting a of young designers in the Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Interested parties may email their re- seeks Young Men’s designer with 3 to ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 sume to [email protected] 5 years exp. in moderate / better mar- runway show for his fall CFDA Fashion Incubator ket for both woven & knit categories. 2012 girls collection. program. W initially Resp. incl: Market research, fabric & color development, sample execution, Thus actresses (Kiernan will sponsor travel design presentation to customer, do- mestic & international travel for custo- Shipka of “Mad Men,” opportunities for the mer appointments & sample execution. TV journalist Deborah program participants Must have technical knowledge to Roberts), his best at its 42 hotels and complete detailed product packs for sample execution. Proficient in customers from retreats around the Illustrator/Photoshop & related sys- Ralph Lauren and world by providing paid tems to complete sketches, concept & sales presentation boards. Strong com- Saks Fifth Avenue, inspirational trips, munication skills & team player. daughters of fashion as well as expanding Pls email resume with salary req to editors and stylists the designers’ brand [email protected] and, of course, a few awareness to guests mommy bloggers made at the sites through the scene. Front-row seats trunk shows. 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September 6, 2012

A Legacy of Levity

A funny thing’s happening in the land of opportunity. Fixed is fluid. Solid is shifting. And suddenly the future belongs to the guys that stay in the moment. Loose, flexible, and able to find the levity. And levity, as it happens, is our legacy. As a designer, Perry Ellis played with fashion convention simply by not taking it so seriously. Following only what felt right. And in doing so, redefined an industry. Now as a new generation of easygoing trailblazers takes the reigns, there’s never been a better moment to be...

POLS OF THE WEEK PLUS: Moods of Right-Hand Men Norway Current Vice President Joe Biden and Republican comes to the hopeful Paul Ryan leave themselves plenty of room East Coast. for improvement on the style front. Page MW6 Page MW6

September 6, 2012

Vision Quest From early Eighties GQ at Michael Bastian to “The English Patient” at Todd Snyder, the men’s mood boards in designer ateliers are about to come to life at New York Fashion Week. The inspirations can be as broad as “California Dreaming” at Michael Kors or as distinct as the Op Art paintings of Victor Vasarely at J. “The bold color-blocked paintings of Crew. For more on the Ellsworth Kelly and the geometrical origins of the fall ‘12 collections, see pages Op Art paintings of Victor Vasarely.” MW4 and MW5. — FRANK MUYTJENS, J. CREW

“American “TRANSPARENT.” — RICHARD CHAI optimism.”

— TOMMY HILFIGER MW2 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2012 Men’s Week Dems State Case for Another Term Harmont & Blaine by KRISTI ELLIS  years by investing in infrastructure, have blocked Obama’s efforts. Eyes IPO, Partner scientific research and education, and Anita Lovely, a committeewoman for CHARLOTTE, N.C. — Democrats are helping state governments with funding Lumberton, N.J., highlighted a long list byLUISA ZARGANI sending a message from their national to avoid laying off teachers, firefighters of successes in Obama’s first term, in- convention here that President Obama’s and policemen. cluding “bringing the troops home, get- MILAN — Investing in retailing around the world record and stance on issues such as “That’s how you create jobs,” he ting Bin Laden, health care. and seeking a partner that will help triple its sales health care and Wall Street reform, the added. “The fashion industry is one in- “What he did in Detroit with the in three years and help it go public are top priori- bailout of the auto industry and social dustry that benefits when people have car business kept us from going into a ties for Italian company Harmont & Blaine SpA, and women’s issues are strong reasons money to spend.” Depression, not just a recession,” she which opened its 100th boutique here this week. for him to be reelected. The carefully orchestrated conven- said. “He worked with the schools on The store is located on central Corso Matteotti, a Speakers and party loyalists have tion was forced to improvise as Mother Pell grants. He has been working hard to street that is home to brands such as Abercrombie get Medicare stabilized. & Fitch and which is quickly developing as a trendy He could have had more shopping venue, with Versace Collection and Just success if the Republican Cavalli units slated to open soon. Party was not holding him The Harmont & Blaine store covers three floors back and voting against and 5,680 square feet and carries the men’s, women’s, him, trying to make him a children’s, footwear and accessories collections. one-term president. That Men’s wear is the core business of the label, which is gets my dander up.” recognizable for its trademark dachshund logo, and Gregory Cendana, a its informal elegance and stylish preppy looks. Washington, D.C., del- Chief executive officer Domenico Menniti said he egate and labor activist, believed in investing in such a venture and in Milan said a Republican ma- “even in the most difficult moment of the country’s jority in Congress in the economic history because we don’t want to let for- last two years has blunt- eign sportswear brands take control of the main ed the extent of Obama’s capital in international fashion.” The company also accomplishments. But plans to open a 10,800-square-foot showroom in the he pointed to the pass- trendy Via Tortona area of the city in November. ing of landmark legis- The store features Mediterranean design and lation — the stimulus colors, with a white and azure color palette, and is package, the health care peppered with vintage armchairs and tables, jux- bill — as proof that the taposed with the new white wood shelves. Menniti President has delivered described it as showing touches of “your grand- on campaign promises. mother’s house.” “There’s a lot more The company’s recent retail expansion includes I wish he’d done, but I openings in Casablanca; Macau; Hong Kong; Santa Fe Democrats are pointing to health care and Wall Street reform to make the case for President Obama. know he’s done his best,” and Villahermosa, Mexico; Malta; at the Dubai Mall said Cendana, adding that and the Mall of Emirates, and at the airports in Milan Obama’s bond with young Linate and Naples. Coming up next are boutiques in framed their message as a choice be- Nature once again foiled the best-laid voters is still strong. Russia’s Ekaterinburg, Rostov on Don and Krasnodar, tween the Democratic party of the peo- plans of organizers. The Democratic “People see their story in him, and and Panama. Menniti said there are also plans to ex- ple versus the Republican party of the National Convention Committee said that’s powerful,” said Cendana, executive pand in the U.K. and France in the first half of next elite, as they championed and defended Wednesday that Obama’s prime-time ac- director at Asian Pacific American Labor year, and in the U.S. — where there are already two Obama’s accomplishments over the last ceptance speech was being moved from Alliance, noting that the administration stores, in Miami and Southampton, N.Y. — in the sec- four years and outlined his vision for a the Bank of American Stadium, which has supported issues like gay marriage ond half, followed by South America in 2014. “We are possible second term. holds 73,000, to the much smaller Time and low interest rates on Stafford loans committed to being an international company, and Two Democratic Capitol Hill lawmak- Warner Cable Arena, the site of the first that resonate with young people. not merely focused on exports,” he said. ers, who cochair the Fashion Caucus, two days of the convention, due to fore- — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS In the U.S., plans call for stores in New York and told WWD that Obama’s policies will casts of severe weather. FROM ERIK MAZA Los Angeles as well as the opening of an American continue to help the fashion industry if Delegates did not let the weather subsidiary. “There is no alternative, we must un- he is reelected. forecasts dampen their enthusiasm derstand and meet local needs with local compa- “I think [four more years] would im- for Obama or their resolve to get nies,” he said. Over the past four years, exports prove the strength and economic stabil- him reelected. rose to account for 50 percent of sales, up from 20 ity of the country and grow the amount “The President inherited an im- percent. of money people have, so that’s good for mense debt, immense military com- In the first half, Harmont & Blaine reported the fashion industry,” said Rep. Carolyn mitments that you don’t walk away sales of 28.4 million euros, or $36.6 million at av- Maloney (D., N.Y.). “So when you help from,” said Choco Gonzalez Meza, erage exchange, up 10 percent compared with the the country, you help the fashion indus- a delegate from San Antonio and same period last year. It expects to close the year try.…Because of the policies he put in former Clinton appointee to the with revenues of around 67 million euros, or $84.3 place — saving the auto industry when Department of Housing & Urban million at current exchange. The private, family- his opponent said he would vote against Development. “To me, he’s done an run company is looking for a partner in Asia and it — it saved [millions] of jobs. He has extraordinarily good job given the South America as Menniti said he would like the stabilized the financial industry and challenge he was handed. These group to reach sales of around 200 million euros, helped restructure and put more safety are issues that are time-consuming, or $251.8 million, by 2015 or 2016. “The goal is to and soundness into our financial indus- financially demanding, and in spite go public once we’ve reached that size,” he added. try, which has helped everyone, and he of all that, he can point to many suc- Harmont & Blaine is based in Caivano, on the invested in our infrastructure.” cesses.” outskirts of Naples. Fifty of the 100 stores are in Rep. Jerrold Nadler (D., N.Y.) said Meza said immigration reform Italy and the brand is carried in more than 600 Obama will create jobs in the next four is vital for Texas, but Republicans points of sale around the world.

continue to believe we can grow earnings expectation is for [the second half] to be rela- per share with the assets that we own tively the same as what you’re seeing out there Execs Discuss Second Half today, somewhere in the 15 percent to 17 right now.” by EVAN CLARK that are doing well, they are fighting us in percent range.” NEW YORK — Just blocks away from the doing well….We expect a very aggressive Blake Nordstrom, president, Nordstrom Inc.: final fashion week prep at Lincoln Center, re- fourth quarter — and by the way, we like that John Idol, chairman and ceo, Michael Kors “In spite of some real serious fundamental tail and fashion’s top executives gathered at because that’s when we do our best.” Holdings Ltd.: issues with the economy…the customer is The Plaza for The Goldman Sachs Nineteenth “The economic environment for the acces- responding to newness….There is not a lot Annual Global Retailing Conference. Ken Hannah, chief financial officer, J.C. Penney sories business, in particular for the second of price resistance if that newness is there. Fashion’s bigwigs tried to woo investors Co. Inc.: half of the year on a macro basis, still looks [If while planning inventory] we get a little with a variety of statistics and growth plans, “We’re assuming that the back-half is con- very healthy. And we believe that this ac- safe, the customer has so many choices today but after formal presentations, they all sistent with what we experienced in the first cessories trend is a global trend….The con- that it impacts our business. So as we look faced some form of the same question from half….Our [comparable-store] sales were sumer who is shopping in our stores, and we forward, we’re going to continue to be pru- Goldman analysts: What are your second- down 20 percent in the first half. We saw think in other luxury stores, she wants a new dent with our planning and be in the low- half expectations relative to first-half per- some very encouraging results [during] the handbag for fall season and she is not going single-digit range, but that’s not our goal.” formance? first couple of weeks of August.” to let much stand in the way.” Here’s what they had to say: Brendan Hoffman, president and ceo, The Bon- Emanuel Chirico, chairman and ceo, PVH Corp.: Stephen I. Sadove, chairman and ceo, Saks Inc.: Ton Stores Inc.: Bill Simon, president and chief executive officer, “There continues to be volatility out there, “Barring any kind of an unforeseen event, our “The thing that we are most excited about is Wal-Mart U.S.: but given the strength of the business, par- expectations are that you’re going to see a fall hopefully getting some real cold weather — “We’re optimistic about the fourth quarter. ticularly the Calvin [Klein] and the Tommy season that’s about the same as what you saw 2011, while we hate to blame the weather, I We do expect it to be challenging. The retail [Hilfiger] businesses, we’re pretty bull- in the spring season. The stock market in the saw the effect of the warm weather on two environment is getting very aggressive. We ish about how we see the year laying out. 13,000 range is pretty healthy for the luxury department stores now and how much it in- have [competitors] that are struggling. We Back-to-school season in North America consumer….We don’t expect to see Europe to- fluences not just your cold-weather items, have people that are growing, so that, ones has gotten off to a very strong start. [We] tally blowing up in the next few months. So our but just a trip to the store.” New York The Plaza, Fifth Avenue at Central Park South, New York, NY 10019 London 8/10 Hans Road, London, SW3 1RX Moscow Bolshaya Dmitrovka 20/1, Moscow, 107031 Milan Via Montenapoleone 21/A, Milan, 20121 Forte Village Resort S. Margherita di Pula (Cagliari) Sardinia - Italy, 09010 angelogalasso.com MW4 WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2012 Men’s Week

DESIGNER INSPIRATIONS Ready or not, here we go again — another season of collections. And with it, designers offer a glimpse into what to expect from spring’s New York shows. — LUIS CAMPUZANO

“I was inspired by Sarah Moon, and her series of dark and moody beaches. They feel like they were taken at sunrise, my favorite part of the day. There is a blend of light and dark that presents a moodier side of the beach.” — ROBERT GELLER “Early Eighties GQ.” “DUCKIE “Structure.” PLEASURES.” — MICHAEL BASTIAN — STEVEN COX AND — DAO-YI CHOW AND MAXWELL OSBORNE, DANIEL SILVER, PUBLIC SCHOOL DUCKIE BROWN

“Their lives begin at 140 mph. The edge...There is no honest way to explain it, because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over it. The others — the living — are those who pushed luck as far as they feel they can handle it, when “Loosely inspired by the gear worn by the Sahara- it comes the time mapping cartographer in ‘The English Patient.’ to choose between The collection plays with subtle sartorial now and later.” tensions by mixing desert neutrals with sun-faded reds, oranges and aquas while fusing — STEFAN MILJANIC, military basics with classic prep school styling.” “RUMBLE FISH,” 1983 GILDED AGE — TODD SNYDER 1988 ON THE COVER: RICHARD CHAI: HERB RITTS “TONY IN WHITE,” HOLLYWOOD Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2012 MW5

“A tailoring and fashion collection that reflects colors, shapes, lines and textures of the poetic

Swedish SPRINGS” SHULMAN: PALM FROM “JULIUS landscape.” “California — JESSY HEUVELINK, J. LINDEBERG DESIGN DIRECTOR Dreaming.” — MICHAEL KORS FROM “SWEDEN ABOVE”

“We had a vision of bringing the brand up to date with great, fresh clothing while still keeping with the company’s rich history and traditions, and we believe that the spring 2013 collection of York Street has accomplished just that.”

— SHIMON AND ARIEL OVADIA, J. PRESS YORK STREET

“Civil right born from destruction.” — DAISUKE OBANA, N.HOOLYWOOD

“This season I wanted to fill my pockets 1997 @ MARIA CONSTANTINO, with cold, hard cash “An inspiring movement: while having fun. And what’s more fun than “We are inspired by the ‘The Men’s Dress Reform combining the circus graphic designs, bold colors Party in London,’ 1937. Time and rock ’n’ roll?” and maritime tradition of to organize ‘The New Reform — MARK MCNAIRY, nautical signal flags.” MARK MCNAIRY Party of New York,’ 2013.” NEW AMSTERDAM — CHRIS COX, NAUTICA — ANTONIO AZZUOLO MW6 WWD THIRSDAY, SEPTEMBER 6, 2012 Men’s Week Moods of Norway Storms SoHo by JEAN E. PALMIERI pany designed the 2012 Summer Pink tractors have been crop- Olympics uniforms for Norway ping up on billboards around and it has been nominated for a Manhattan for the past few weeks. Rising Star men’s award in the It’s a tease for the first Moods of U.S. It recently brought industry Norway store on the East Coast. veteran George Santacroce on The quirky Norwegian brand board to serve as chief executive founded by Stefan Dahlkvist, officer for the U.S. market and the Simen Staalnacke and Peder plan is to have between 12 and Børresen 10 years ago, today will 15 stores in America as well as a open a 2,300-square-foot store at strong e-commerce component 75 Greene Street in the heart of and wholesale distribution target- the SoHo shopping district. The ing specialty stores and select de- store has sent out blonde wigs partment stores. “Our growth strat- as the invitations for the Really egy is very strategic,” Santacroce Really Blonde Party it will host at said. “We know the best way to the store for Fashion’s Night Out, build brand awareness and loyalty where it will serve waffles, pres- is by having our own stores.” ent a performance by the band So step one is the SoHo unit. Poolside and bring in a few live “This has been a dream of ours sheep to help celebrate the mile- for 10 years,” said Dahlkvist. stone. “We’re going to have the “Norwegian fashion has four running of the sheep on Greene seasons and we think that will Street,” said Dahlkvist. fit well in New York.” Børresen Moods of Norway was founded added: “And now we’re bicoastal.” in the town of Stryn, Norway (pop- Three years ago, the company en- ulation 6,750), and has built a rep- tered the U.S. retail market with a utation for its irreverent fashion store on Robertson Boulevard in sensibility and whimsical sense of Los Angeles. It operates 15 stores humor. Its slogans include “Happy around the world. Clothes for Happy People,” and The Greene Street store, with the tags inside its jackets read: neighbors that include Nicole “Made in Europe by really, re- Miller, John Varvatos, Onassis ally, pretty blonde girls.” The and J. Lindeberg, was designed ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY goal of the company is to “make by Foundation Design in nearly Items on display at the new SoHo outpost. our grandmas proud.” The outside of its suit 30 days. The theme for this fall “different clothes for different casual and high-end brands, and jackets are embroi- is “cocktail mountaineering” and moods,” said Børresen. The found- Moods of Norway plays with Etro dered with the figure displays include brightly painted ers expect the knit woven shirts and Ted Baker but is more afford- 234,243 — the number scaffolding surrounded by stacks and knitwear to be the most popu- able and has a genuine point of of registered tractors in of wood, pick axes and vintage lar items here. Prices range from view and heritage.” Norway. toy tractors. Three gold chairlifts $119 to $149 for shirts; $399 to $599 The company does no tradi- Despite the never- are suspended from the ceiling for jackets; $49 to $69 for T-shirts tional advertising and relies in- ending jokes, Moods and the interior is a colorful or- and knitwear, and $179 for denim. stead on event-based and guerrilla of Norway’s business ange, white and gold. In addition Women’s wear was introduced marketing to help get its name out. is quite serious. The to the men’s and women’s ap- three years ago and currently ac- Beyond the U.S., the plan is brand is expected to parel, the store also sells Freia counts for around one-third of the to expand internationally with a have sales of $60 mil- candy bars, bags of Vafler (tradi- company’s volume. Categories in- new distributorship agreement in lion this year and it has tional Norwegian waffle mix) and clude dresses, knitwear, blouses, Germany and exploration of the a 92 percent recogni- King Oscar sardines. Two large jeans and jackets. U.K. and French markets. tion rate in its home video screens show films of the “We’re truly a lifestyle brand “We know Stryn is not the country among its tar- fjords of Norway. now,” said Santacroce. “They’ve fashion capital of the world, but get audience of young The men’s collection ranges created a cult following among the that’s what makes it cool,” said adults between 20 and from tailored clothing and cock- youth in Norway and I believe it Børresen. “We’re doing things 30 years old. The com- tail suits to jeans and T-shirts, or fills a void here. There are many we’re not supposed to do.”

Pols of THE WEEK JOE BIDEN: C+ // PAUL RYAN: C+

 The Tom Cruise in “Top Gun” The casual Friday/ Stay out of the tanning haircut suits him to perfection. It booth and moisturize will definitely please the ladies and separated-at-birth heavily. There’s only one some men also. style aesthetic of the George Hamilton. He might have lost some weight Vice President and He has no shoulders. Wear running all those sub-three-hour the wannabe VP is a jacket or roll up the marathons, but the polo is too boxy sleeves for extra volume. around the waist. A Polo slim-fit not working for either would suit him better. one. The high-waisted The cowboy belt makes no beige slacks paired sense with the ensemble The shiny black belt clashes with and is too reminiscent of the aged brown shoe. with blue shirts a previous president. It’s also too tight, creating a Another unflattering high-waisted, scream of suburbia, muffin-top effect. baggy slack. He should call Biden but in a sad way. and they should visit Barneys New Please leave the drapy They’re too high and wide, York together. but the break is right. summer wool pants Go a little lower and he’s in the behind and wear The beat-up loafers are harem pants neighborhood. Not the the only saving grace of look he’s going for. better-fitting dress this outfit and channels his preppy heritage. khakis. J Brand has a He needs to buy big-boy shoes. great selection. BIDEN PHOTO BY LESLIE E. KOSSOFF-POOL/GETTY IMAGES; RYAN BY JOE BURBANK/ORLANDO SENTINEL/MCT BY IMAGES; RYAN LESLIE E. KOSSOFF-POOL/GETTY BIDEN PHOTO BY THE NEW CLASS OF MAN

ON NEWSSTANDS: 9/24 ORDER ONLINE: WWW.CLASSOFMAN.COM ADVERTISING INQUIRIES: Marc Berger, Vice President & Publisher | 212.630.4831 | [email protected] Never be afraid to take risks, and never take the clothes you wear too seriously.

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