PREHISTORIC & EARLY HISTORIC FOOD CROP

DIVERSITY NOURISHING TUCSON, A UNESCO CITY OF GASTRONOMY

Edited by Gary Paul Nabhan and Julia Glennon

With contributions from Karen Adams, Maribel Alvarez, Martha Ames Burgess, Gay Chanler, Dena Cowan, Michael Diehl, Suzanne Fish, Jesus Garcia, Wendy Hodgson, Jonathan Mabry, Charles Miksicek, Carolyn Niethammer, Roger Pfeuffer, Amadeo Rea, and Rafael Routson de Granade

April 2016 Green Paper #2 of the Center for Regional Food Studies University of Arizona College of Social & Behavioral Sciences Tucson, Arizona www.foodstudies.arizona.edu www.azfoodstudies.com Funded by the W.K. Kellogg Foundation Endowment to the Southwest Center INTRODUCTION

In December 2015, Tucson, Arizona joined the UNESCO Creave Cies Network as the first City of Gastronomy designated in the U.S. In the months that followed, local, naonal and internaonal aenon was directed to the 4100 year anquity of food culvaon documented in the Tucson Basin —an agricultural tradion as long or longer than that in any metro area north of Mexico. In addion, the UNESCO designaon generated renewed interest in the remarkable survival of diverse food crops and the tradional culinary and horcultural knowledge associated with them. Both the crops themselves and me-tried knowledge for managing them may have enhanced relevance to our food security in the face of climate change.

On the same day as the UNESCO designaon, the University of Arizona established the Center of Regional Food Studies to serve as the college’s official partner to the City of Tucson in documenng, researching and educang the public regarding Tucson’s historic foodways and recent innovaons in its food systems. What beer starng place that to remind Tucson’s cizenry and visitors of the disncve food crop species and GRAINS AND LEGUMES variees of its “foodshed” that underlie the culinary history of the region? AMARANTH, ALEGRIA, GUEGI, HUATLE (Amaranthus cruentus and A. hypochondriacus). The many social, cultural and economic issues Domescated over four thousand years ago in relang to concepts of heritage foods, heirloom tropical Mexico, amaranths were traded northward vegetables and local food sovereignty remain and grown in the Tucson Basin by late prehistoric highly debated and for some, deeply contested. For mes. These mul-purpose crops produce a small that reason, we have not aempted to iconize or cereal-like grain that is rich in lysine, tender, reify any concept of “heritage” or “heirloom crop” spinach-like leaves rich in calcium and iron, and in in this publicaon that might inadvertently under- some cases, red dyes used in coloring corn breads value, ignore or dismiss the many other such as piki wafers. Old variees remain expressions of biological and cultural diversity in vulnerable. our food system. The aached descripons and summary table presented here are but the first BARLEY, CEBADA (Hordeum pusillum and H. steps in Tucson’s own assessment of how to beer vulgare). Prehistorically, a semi-domescated idenfy, safeguard, take pride and pleasure in the lile-leaf barley (Hordeum pusillum) was grown in many horcultural and culinary assessments that it both Arizona and New Mexico. The culvated has historically shared with surrounding forms once grown in the Tucson Basin are now communies and cultures. Many of these assets exnct north of the border, although Nabhan are not restricted to the Tucson Basin, and deserve found weedy forms sll growing in the floodwater aenon and care wherever and with whomever fields of the western O’odham in the 1980s. The they occur. domescated barley from Asia (Hordeum vulgare) was introduced to San Gabriel on the Rio Grande We welcome your comments, suggesons and near present-day San Juan Pueblo in 1600, and to correcons to this preliminary inventory. the fields on the Santa Cruz floodplain surrounding the mission of Tumacacori, Arizona in 1701. In both watersheds, barley was grown as a grain for breads and porridges, and for animal feed, well into the 1950s.The original variees introduced by the Spanish may now be exnct.

2 GRAIN CHENOPOD, HUAZONTLE (Chenopodium SORGHUM, SORGO, MILOMAIZ, HEGARI (Sorghum berlandieri). Grown prehistorically in the U.S. bicolor). Originally from Africa, this mul-purpose Southwest and Mexico, this plant produces leafy crop was introduced to the Tucson Basin in the greens, an edible flower stalk with a flavor early 1800s as a forage, broom fiber, grain, sugar, reminiscent of Brussel sprouts, and a seed ground and syrup. This heat-and-drought hardy plant is into a quinoa-like flour. Its seeds recovered from prolific. The stalks are chewed or pressed for their archaeological sites in the Tucson area are difficult sweet juices, and Navajos connue to make to tell from its wild relave, lambsquarters, but beauful juniper-handled brooms from their seed both have likely been used since the mid- to late- stalks. Hegari has become increasingly rare as prehistoric eras. According to Amadeo Rea, it was other improved variees replace it. grown by the River Pima of central Arizona into the late nineteenth century, when the irrigaon WHEAT, TRIGO (Tricum aesvum). Bread wheats supplies were usurped by Mormons upstream. It were introduced from the Mediterranean to remains in culvaon in the Sierra Madre foothills Sonora by 1630 and to southern Arizona around of western Chihuahua, but can be considered 1690. They were eagerly adopted as the major endangered there and exnct north of the border. winter crop in Baja California, then Sonora, California, and Arizona, not replacing but CORN/MAIZ (Zea mays) complemenng corn. White Sonora, a so white Probably domescated along the Rio Balsas of bread wheat, was planted in November or southern Mexico 8000-9000 years ago, corn December, and harvested in May or June. The reached the Tucson Basin 4100 years ago, before O’odham, Yoemem and neighboring Sonorans being grown at nearly any other known site in the developed enormous wheat flour torllas which present-day U.S. Corn has not only provided they wrapped around beans or meats before deep- staples and fermented beverages in the Tucson frying, creang the now world-famous Basin, but also has many ritual uses. Various kernel chimichanga. During the Civil War, the Gila and colors are selected for ritual symbolism and for Santa Cruz valley fields of the Pima and Maricopa feast foods, while their pollen is collected for O’odham produced millions of pounds of bread ceremonial and medicinal purposes. Some, like meat that supplied nearly all Yankee and Rebel Chapalote, went exnct north of the Mexican troops west of the Mississippi watershed with their border but have been reintroduced; the others are grain. Damming of rivers, usurpment of farmlands, increasingly rare and vulnerable. and demise of grinding mills has ended the tradional wheat era in the region. White Sonora, SONORAN PANICGRASS, SONORAN MILLET, SAGUI once rare, is on the rebound, as is Pima Club to a (Panicum hircaule var. sonorum). A golden- lesser extent. seeded millet-like grain produced on mul-headed grass stems reaching three to four feet in height, FAVA BEAN, BROAD BEAN, HABA (Vicia faba). Sonoran panic-grass is a semi-domescated cereal These large-seeded legumes were introduced by unique to the U.S. /Mexico borderland states. the Spanish to the Southwest before 1630, and Prehistoric caches of the seeds have been found by were established around the missions of Santa Cruz archaeologists from the Colorado River all the way watershed by 1706. They were soon adopted by to the Santa Cruz near Tucson, in both Hohokam both indigenous and Hispanic farmers for cool and Patayan ruins. A few samples have been season agriculture. The large seeds are eaten both recovered archaeologically in the Tucson Basin. Its green and dry. Favas are efficient nitrogen fixers of flour is light, pleasant-tasng and excellent for all the annual legumes, making them a good cover tamales and torllas. Sagui was historically crop. Southwestern land races are now rare. culvated by Colorado River tribes of Arizona, Sonora, and Baja California, and by others in the Sierra Madre in Chihuahua and Sonora. The damming of the Colorado River drove it into exncon in the United States, but it has precariously persisted as a culvated grain among the Guarijio of Chihuahua. Endangered.

3 GARBANZO, CHICKPEA (Cicer arienum). These LIMA BEAN, FRIJOL ALUBIA, SIEVA (Phaseolus legumes, originally from the Ferle Crescent, were lunatus). Undoubtedly the most delicious lima introduced by the Spanish into the Southwest beans in North America, these desert land races along the Rio Grande by 1630 and spread to the have been culvated in the Santa Cruz and Santa Cruz and other watersheds by 1700. Nave Colorado watersheds since prehistoric mes. These Americans and Hispanics historically ate the beans lima variees are broad, flat beans that are green and dried. Uncommon in the Southwest. colorfully moled. They are eaten ceremonially as sprouts in underground kivas, or the dried seeds COWPEA, BLACK-EYED PEA, YORIMUNI (Vigna are boiled and baked. These lima variees are unguiculata). Heat-tolerant legumes introduced to tolerant of salt and alkaline soils, and their the Tucson Basin by Padre Kino in 1690, cowpeas resistance to root-knot nematodes historically saved the Southern California lima bean industry are good producers in the low, drought-prone from dying due to this pest. All Sonoran Desert land deserts. They are eaten green (immature) in goat races are rare, and several merit endangered cheese soups, or dried, shelled, and boiled. The status, although the Pima and San Xavier O’odham O’odham dry pea has recently been revived by have begun efforts to revive their tradions. O’odham farmers associated with the San Xavier Co-op south of Tucson. The Chinese introduced PEA, CHICHARRO (Pisum savum). These winter yard long beans of this same species, selling them and spring legumes of Asia and the Mediterranean in the Tucson area between 1870 and 1930. were introduced to San Gabriel (north of Española) Vulnerable. around 1600 by early Spanish colonists of New Mexico, and around 1730 to central Sonora.

Smooth-skinned yellow-green dry peas were JACK BEAN, FRIJOLON, WHITE AZTEC (Canavalia introduced and adapted to the Sonoran Desert in ensiformis). Arising from purple flowers, these the seventeenth century. These winter legumes are large, white flaened beans are produced in both nitrogen-fixing and resistant to Texas Root enormous papery pods that reach eighteen inches Rot, and were therefore used in rotaons to reduce in length. The jack bean was grown prehistorically the rot’s effects on coon and other crops. by Prehistoric Puebloan, Hohokam, and Salado. The Although seldom grown anymore by the O’odham jack bean persisted in present-day Arizona in just a and River Pima, some Anglo and Hispanic farmers few indigenous communies into the tweneth maintain them as a cover crop in their rotaons to reduce root rot in their fields. They are excellent century, but has since died out, perhaps due to its for soups and stews. Uncommon. high water demand, its need for long days, and its small percentages of an amino acid, canavanine, TEPARY BEAN, TEPARI, YORIMUNI (Phaseolus that becomes toxic when eaten in large doses. acufolius). The center of diversity of tepary beans Although the original land races are exnct in the is in driest, hoest stretches of the Sonoran Desert, Tucson Basin, new introducons are occasionally although they were first domescated in the grown today in Baja California, New Mexico and subtropics of Mexico. They have been recovered Colorado. Endangered. from prehistoric sites in the Tucson Basin, and promoted by the University of Arizona’s College of Agriculture since 1912. All variees share a LENTIL, LENTEJA (Lens culinaris). Lenls were disncve, nuy texture and sweet flavor introduced into northern New Mexico before 1630, reminiscent of molasses or maple sugar. Tepary and into Arizona and Sonora by 1690. They became beans mature quickly and root deeply to avoid an important winter and spring crop, to be drought, and most land races are tolerant of high harvested in May. The tan and gray-brown lenls of heat and alkaline soils. Of the roughly fiy-six the Tucson Basin are relavely large compared to historic land races found in the region a century others from northern Mexico. Formerly grown by ago, only eight of them have survived, in addion O’odham on both sides of the border, they have to the Dorado and Blanco selecons made by W.D. become rare as drought and land use changes have Hood of Coolidge Arizona in the 1970s. Although saved from exncon as a culvated species, diminished O’odham dry farming during the cool several land races of tepary beans remain season. Rare. threatened.

4 CHILTEPIN, CHILE PEQUIN (Capsicum annuum var. glabriusculum. This wild relave of domescated chiles has been harvested, consumed, culturally dispersed, protected, and culvated for centuries on a small-scale in southern Arizona. The northernmost limits of its natural distribuon is thirty miles south of Tucson near Tubac and Tumacacori, where wild harvests persisted into the 1970s. Historically, dried chiltepίn fruit were traded northward as far as the Grand Canyon. Yoemem (Yaqui), O’odham and some Sonoran immigrants to Tucson acvely culvate and select this chile for cold hardiness, piquancy and flavor. It is grown both as an annual and as a perennial, and well- protected plants can live for more than a quarter century. Common, but vulnerable to increasingly frequent droughts and freezes.

CHINESE BROCCOLI, GAI LAN, KAI LAM (Brassica oleracea var. alboglabra). This vegetable has kale- like oblong grey-green leaves as well as floral clusters which resemble broccoli. Its ulmate origins are unknown, but it appears that VEGETABLES Portuguese sailors widely dispersed this cabbage relave throughout Asia, and that Chinese farmers BITTER GOURD, BALSAM PEAR, BALSAMO and day laborers brought it to the west coast of (Mormodica charana). This edible but bier, North America. It arrived in the Tucson Basin soon cucumber-shaped gourd or melon was introduced aer the 1870s. Its crisp texture and slightly bier to the Tucson Basin somemes between the 1870s flavor favor its use as a cooked vegetable in sr and the me of statehood for Arizona in 1912. It is fries, oen cooked with oyster sauce. Rare here. an annual vine that climbs while producing dark green to yellow-orange fruit. The fruit are picked CHINESE FLOWERING CABBAGE, PAK CHOY SUM when immature to be cooked in curries or pickled. (Brassica rapa var. parachinensis).Yet another The mature fruits are both bier and poisonous. Chinese introducon to the western region of The young stems and leaves can also be eaten. North America, this annual resembles a non- Rare. heading cabbage or pak choi. It likely originated in Southeast Asia, but has spread to all parts of the CHILE PEPPER, CHILE (Capsicum annuum). One of world. It is sll grown among farmers of Chinese Nave American and Hispanic contribuons to the descent in Arizona and Sonora nearly a century and savory cuisines of the world, the chiles of this a half aer their ancestors introduced it to irrigated region are not merely grown for their heat, but for gardens and fields in the desert surrounding their varying shapes, sizes, colors, pungency, Tucson. The first variety introduced to the Tucson fragrances and flavors. Chiles were domescated in Basin is likely now rare. the Puebla-Oaxaca region of Mesoamerica 6000 years ago, but did not reach into regions north of FUZZY MELON, WAX GOURD, CALABAZA BLANCA, the present-day U.S./Mexico border unl aer MAO GUA, DON GUA (Benincasa hispida var. 1500. The culvated variees are used fresh, sub- chiequa). This creeping vine produces small, dried as whole pods, or smoked, then ground into cucumber-like fruits that are hairy and slightly chile powder. Unfortunately, recent introducons waxy. They are ancient culgens from of improved chile culvars have been grown Southeastern Asia, with no close wild relaves alongside the land races, facilitang cross- remaining there. The flowers, leaves, and mature pollinaon, which has “swamped out” some of the fruit are all eaten in soups, stews and curries, while original traits of heirloom chiles. Paul Bosland and the young fruit are pickled or eaten raw like Eric Votava project that as much as a fih of cucumbers. They were introduced to the Santa Southwestern land races have already been Cruz River valley someme aer the 1870s by genecally contaminated by gene flow from Chinese market gardeners, who sold them in improved culvars. Vulnerable to further genec Oriental corner groceries in downtown Tucson. The contaminaon. first variety of this gourd introduced to the Tucson Basin is also likely to be rare today. 5

GARLIC, AJO (Allium savum). Now an essenal sierras south of the border. Green-striped cushaws ingredient of salsas and other tradional foods of (C. argyrosperma) and the big cheese pumpkin or the Tucson Basin, the bingly sharp pink and purple segualca (C. moshata) are old variees sll soneck garlic variees sll found in Sonora and common in Tucson marketplaces, while the winter southern Arizona were brought in as culvated pumpkin or Hubbard squash (C. maxima) was likely perennials by Spanish and Arab immigrants three introduced to Tucson by Chinese railroad workers centuries ago, and have become wild in some parts or the military in the 1870s. Most land races of our of the region. Sll common. region are sll common.

MELON (Cucumis melo). Melons were among the earliest Spanish introducons to the Santa Cruz, Gila and Colorado watersheds, someme before 1700 AD. Cassava-like, cantaloupe, and Persian variees appear to have been introduced to the Tucson Basin prior to Arizona statehood. Today, the fruits are more varied than they were historically, with orange, green, or white flesh and skins that are smooth, ribbed, or need. This may be due to intenonal selecon or genec contaminaon through accidental hybridizaon with modern improved culvars. Vulnerable.

ONION, CEBOLLA (Allium cepa). Introduced by the Spanish to San Gabriel on the Rio Grande around 1600, and to the Kino Missions in Sonora and Arizona by 1700, sweet yellow onions and shallots SUNFLOWER, GIRASOL (Helianthus annuus). quickly became essenal planngs in winter and Domescated in northeastern Mexico or the spring gardens throughout Chile Pepper Naon. adjacent U.S. border area, sunflowers were inially The so-called I’itoi onion in culvaon is not introduced in prehistoric mes to the Mississippi derived from a nave wild onion of the same watershed, but came to the Tucson Basin in late O’odham name that grows below Baboquivari prehistoric mes. The seeds are eaten raw or Peak; it is a shallot introduced from the Old World, roasted, pressed for oil, planted as an ornamental and is now one of the most heat-tolerant onions or used for bird feed. Although old variees from grown year-around in the Tucson Basin. For the Tucson Basin are now exnct, purple-black decades in the tweneth century, a sweet yellow variees from the Colorado Plateau are somemes onion was grown in Cochise County, Arizona for the grown by basket weavers living in southern Tucson market. Sll common from Tucson to Ajo, Arizona. By the 1970s, there had been genec Arizona. contaminaon through accidental hybridizaon with modern improved culvars such as Mammoth SQUASH, PUMPKIN, CALABAZA (Cucurbita spp.) Russian. Vulnerable and increasingly rare as a food Squash fruits have blessed the Tucson Basin for and dye crop. roughly four millennia, and their different species and variees vary in shape, color, flavor, and TOMATILLO, MILTOMATE (Physalis philadelphica var. philadelphica). Wild versus domescated culinary use. Flowers, seeds, and ps of vines are tomallos, the small green “husk tomatoes,” are all edible. All fruits can be eaten when small and difficult to tell apart in the archaeological record. immature as summer squash, or when mature, as However, early historic culvaon is known in the winter squash. Oddly, nave heirlooms of the first region and it is likely that some of the prehistoric pumpkin to arrive in the region, which were akin to seeds found in the Tucson Basin were either acorn squashes (C. pepo), are most likely exnct intenonally tended or harvested from weeds. One north of the border, and restricted to the high nave Southwestern land race persists, but others are recent introducons from Mexico. They are used to make tradional and savory green salsas and stews. True tomatoes were introduced in mid- to late historic periods, some of them from Europe. Tomallos, in contrast, are more closely related to “Chinese lantern” ground cherries and Cape gooseberries. Uncommon.

6 WATERMELON, SANDIA (Citrullus lanatus). An ALMOND, ALMENDRA (Prunus dulcis). Almonds African nave introduced by the Spanish to Mexico, first came into the Southwest in a delivery to Juan watermelon seed was rapidly traded northward, de Oñate at San Gabriel on the Rio Grande of New reaching the Santa Cruz, Gila, and Colorado Mexico in 1698. The Mission Almond, first watersheds prior to explorer Oñate’s arrival in described in 1891, jumped from Texas and New 1598, and prior to Kino in the Tucson Basin in 1690. Mexico over to Arizona and California much later, Fruits vary in size and color of flesh and rind, with where they persist to this day. They have been an yellow and pink ones historically important in this essenal element of Arabic-influenced cuisines in region. Seeds are eaten and used for their oil. Old the region for centuries. Rare to uncommon variees are uncommon but vulnerable to outcrossing. APPLE, MANZANO (Malus x domesca). Apples were first introduced to Manzano New Mexico in WATER SPINACH, BATATA ACUATICA, ONG CHOY, 1633 and to the Kino missions of Arizona and KANGKONG, WENG CAI (Ipomaea aquaca).This Sonora before 1706. Border explorer John Bartle semi-aquac plant with trailing stems can be grown saw apples, along with pears and peaches in an as an annual or perennial. Resembling a sweet orchard at a hacienda west of Tucson in 1852. potato vine, it has arrow-shaped leaves and Numerous Spanish-introduced “manzanita pinkish-white flowers. It may have originated in Mexicana” apple seedling variees of some India or Africa, but has spread to coastal wetland anquity remain in Hispanic orchards elsewhere in agriculture around the world. Its leaves and stems the region, but most are unnamed and are now are cooked like spinach, while its fresh leaves are rare. also eaten in salads. Late in the nineteenth century, Chinese immigrants to the Tucson Basin began to grow this plant in tail-water ponds on the edge of irrigated fields, or in the weest places within their dooryard gardens. They were sold in corner grocery stores run by Chinese merchants. Rare or exnct in our region.

Culvated Perennial (Mostly Orchard) Crops

AGAVES, MAGUEY, MESCAL, INCLUDING THE HOHOKAM AGAVE, (Agave murpheyi) AND HUACHUCA AGAVE (Agave parryi var. huachucensis). Close kin of the blue tequila agave, these agaves have been culvated or harvested from the wild for many centuries, and pit-roasted for food and drink. Their culvaon stretches from Sonora northward to the Mogollon Rim in central Arizona. Another species, the bacanora agave (Agave angusfolia.), was apparently harvested, roasted, and fermented south of the border, but dislled, boled and distributed in Tucson by Julius Goldbaum in the late nineteenth and early tweneth centuries. Prohibion made this illegal, although bootleg bacanora clandesnely remained in trade between Arizona and Sonora. The smoky, complex flavors of mescals are making a comeback in the global marketplace, but commercial products are seldom as good as the home-brewed arsanal ones made by bootleggers. Uncommon in the wild, and rarely used for food or drink anymore.

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7 APRICOT, CHABACANO, ALBARICOQUE (Prunus Islands. They were brought to the Americas by armenica). Apricots were brought from the Spanish and Portuguese explorers in the early part Mediterranean to the Rio Grande in the 1630s, and of the sixteenth century where they have to the Hopi Mesas and Sonoran missions not long connued to hybridize and generate new culvars. aer that. They are hard, long-lived trees that They are frost-sensive, and typically require produce many seedling apricot variees that go irrigaon, but they are heat tolerant. The Mexican unnamed. Mormon seedling variees have Limón and other citrus were introduced to Sonora proliferated around many Arizona homesteads and and Arizona missions around 1700. Uncommon for ranch houses. Common. the most part.

CHERRY, CAPULIN, CEREZO (Prunus avium and P. DATE, DATIL (Phoenix dactylifera). Date palms salicifolia). Many wild cherries occur in North from the Middle East and North Africa were America, but domescated cherries from the Old introduced to Hermosillo by 1700, and rapidly World were introduced to the New Mexican spread to desert oases in northern Sonora and Pueblos of the Tewa Indians by 1630. In the late southern Arizona. The varietal diversity in southern nineteenth century, Archbishop Lamy of Santa Fe Arizona and California was augmented in the early disseminated an oxheart cherry variety throughout 1900s by several collecon expedions to North the Southwest that produced two harvests of fruits Africa. The Black Sphinx variety occurs only in per season; Lamy’s closest friend, Fr. Joseph southern Arizona, and this rare sport was Machebeuf likely carried this and other fruit discovered by Roy Franklin in 1922 as a chance variees from Santa Fe to Tucson when he was seedling that grew up around Hayani date cungs charged with rebuilding the Cathedral of Saint at the Sphinx Ranch plantaon in Phoenix, where Augusne. The Mexican sand cherry or capulín has some 23 date variees had been brought from also been grown in southern Arizona since early Arabia in 1917. The owners, the Brophy and historic periods. Rare or uncommon north of the McChesney families, propagated it by crown border. separaon, and by 1931, they tended 156 Black Sphinx date palms in their plantaon. It soon CHOLLA CACTUS, STAGHORN x BUCKHORN became one of two highly-prized and expensive CHOLLA HYBRID, CHOYA (Cylindropuna variees in Arizona, and has been lauded by the versicolor x echinocarpa). Numerous species of likes of President Dwight D. Eisenhower and Alice cholla cac have been tended and somemes Waters of Chez Panisse in Berkeley. Endangered. culvated for their tender flower buds in house yards by O’odham and other residents of southern FIG, HIGO, HIGUERA (Ficus carica). While three Arizona, northern Sonora, and New Mexico. edible species of wild figs occur within the Sonoran However, one of the most curious cholla cac is a Desert, domescated figs were not introduced into hybrid which occurs only between Tucson and Sells the region unl 1668 at El Paso, the early 1700s at that is parcularly esteemed for the size and flavor Tumacacori, and 1795 at the Alta Califiornia of its tender buds. Cholla buds connue to be missions. The O’odham name for figs, suuna, came harvested in the spring, and aer their spines and to them through Spanish from Arabs and Berbers glochids are brushed off with brooms and screens. of North Africa, where the terms tuun, in, or tuna They are either pit-roasted or boiled, then sun- referred to figs, dates or olives at different points dried for later use. The hybrids with the best cactus and places in history. They are tolerant of heat, buds for eang have been culvated in dooryard drought and alkaline soils. The Black Mission fig is gardens for centuries. Uncommon. among the oldest and best known in the Tucson Basin. Sll common. CITRUS, INCLUDING MEXICAN LIME, LIMON (Citrus auranfolia), LEMON-ORANGE, NARANJA-LIMA GRAPES, UVA, PARRA (Vis vinifera). The wild (Citrus limeoides SOUR ORANGE, NARANJA Arizona grape (Vis arizonica) is abundant in the AGRIA (C. x auranum), SWEET LIME, LIMON well-watered canyons of the Tucson Basin, where it CHICHONA (C. limeoides), PUMMELO, POMELO is sll used as a rootstock and to make jellies. (C. maxima), CITRON, CIDRA (C. medica) ORANGE, Domescated Mission grapes arrived in the region NARANJA (C. sinensis). These citrus species and at Socorro, New Mexico in 1620 and spread some of the hybrids originally came from the Asian throughout the region. Many other variees were tropics, including from India. Several cross- introduced as well, and over two dozen are breeding citrus variees spread across North Africa commercially culvated in the eastern Tucson into Spain and Portugal and then to the Canary Basin near Vail, southward toward the Sonoita Plains. Both Arizona wild grapes and culvated Mission grapes are common and not in danger.

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JUJUBE, CHINESE DATE, DATIL CHINO (Zizyphus PEACH, DURAZNO, MELACOTON (Prunus persica). jujube) This small tree or shrub with date-like fruit Peaches were first introduced to the Rio Grande arrived in the Mediterranean region from China before 1630 and to the Hopi Mesas by the during the height of the Roman Empire. By 1837 it mid-1600s; they did not arrive in Arizona or Alta California unl 1795. Peaches of an unknown had to the Eastern seaboard and quickly diffused variety were observed near Tucson by John Bartle westward; Chinese railroad workers also brought it in 1852. Old variees are rare. with them to California and northern Mexico in the 1870s, Including a culvar that was officially named PLUM, DAMSON, PRUNE, CIRUELA, (Prunus spp). Giant in 1887. In 1908, plant explorer Frank Meyer Although several species of wild plums are now introduced many addional superior variees grown in the Tucson Basin, the larger plums directly from China. Jujubes remain present in domescated in the Old World were not many of the barrios around downtown Tucson introduced to the region unl approximately 1600, where Mexican and Chinese railroad workers lived when they arrived with Oñate at San Gabriel on the and first planted these trees over 130 years ago. Rio Grande. They were similar to the Damson or Some of these jujubes have become wild as Damascene type, good for drying as prunes, to be volunteers in Tucson neighborhoods. Common. salted and eaten as saladitos. The Potawatomi plum (P. munsoniana)—a Midwestern nave LOQUAT, NISPERO (Eriobotrya japonica). brought westward on the Mormon Trail—is grown Originally from China, this small evergreen tree in hedgerows edging Mormon selements with long, leathery leaves is somemes called throughout Arizona and Utah. Uncommon. Chinese plum or medlar. Its Spanish name, nispero, was originally applied to the Mediterranean POMEGRANATE, GRANADA (Punica granatum). A medlar, which was introduced to the Southwest in small fruit tree or mul-stemmed shrub tolerant of the 17th century, but did not persist. Like the drought, heat and alkaline soils, the pomegranate jujube, the loquat is thought to have been came from the Middle East via Spain to Sonora in introduced to Tucson by Chinese railroad workers the 1690s, and then spread northward. Several in the 1880s. It had become well-established as a addional variees were introduced in the early garden plant in California by the 1860s. Common. tweneth century and persisted for decades around abandoned homesteads. A new OLIVE, OLIVA, ACEITUNA (Olivea europea). Olives pomegranate industry is developing in from the Mediterranean were introduced by the Southeastern Arizona based on the health benefits 1690s to Baja California, and by the 1750s to of pomegranate an-oxidants. Arizona and California. These original Mission The first variees introduced to the Tucson Basin olives are frost-sensive, but heat-tolerant and are now likely to be rare. long-lived. Historic trees of this variety and others persist in the Tucson Basin, as do northern African PRICKLY PEAR, NOPAL, TUNA (Opuna introducons of several disncve variees engelmannii and O. ficus-indica). It appears that planted on the University of Arizona by its former prickly pear cac were historically harvested more dean of agriculture, Robert Forbes, around World for their edible red and purple fruit than for the War I. Mission olives are now uncommon to rare. vegetable-like pads in the Tucson Basin. Although it is difficult to idenfy which species of prickly pear occur in the archaeological record and whether

they were wild or culvated, virtually every culture in the border states—including the non-agricultural Seri of Sonora—have dispersed, transplanted and tended their favorite prickly pears for centuries, if not millennia. Extensive and incredible dense stands of Engelmann’s prickly pear persist in the Tucson Basin on the flanks of the Santa Rita Mountains, not far from where some of the most abundant evidence of seasonal encampments have been documented by archaeologists. Common.

9 QUINCE, MEMBRILLO (Cydonia oblonga). CATTLE, GANADO MAYOR (Bos bos.) Derived from Although this species is nave to the Caucasus the Spanish criollo cale brought to Vera Cruz in region of Asia, it was introduced into the English- 1540, which then rapidly dispersed northward to speaking world by 1275 A.D., and became a major the Rio Grande, the Criollo land race of cale were raw material for marmalades in England by the introduced to the Sonoran Desert near Loreto, Baja sixteenth century. Because all quince culvaon California around 1690. They rapidly adapted to declined as so fruit became more storable in the the brackish waters and desert condions on the nineteenth century, lile is known of the origins of peninsula as chinampos, and to the thornscrub and parcular variees. However, it was introduced mesquite grasslands of Sonora, Chihuahua and into Tucson Basin by Spanish missionaries from the Arizona as criollo corriente. In Texas, they were Mission Dolores in Sonora in 1689, and has become bred and selected to be the widespread American a culturally important fruit in many Hispanic land race, Texas longhorn. The North American communies in the Southwest. It persists as a feral Corriente Associaon has helped to register and plant around homesteads, mining camps and promote the breed for calf-roping and bull-dogging springs throughout southern Arizona. Uncommon compeons and for meat producon throughout but not threatened. the Southwest. More recently, Jornada Experimental Range has been collaborang with WOLFBERRY, GOJI, SALICIESO (Lycium cf. southeastern Arizona ranchers on ecological and berlandieri & other species, including L. barbarum nutrional studies to highlight the unique and L. chinense). New World relaves of the goji adaptaons on line-bred Criollos. Steaks and berry domescated in China, wolerries are burgers from the most ancient lineage of cale to consistently found growing on or around reach North America have recently been featured prehistoric and historic ruins of Nave American in several Tucson restaurants. While Corrientes are selements centuries aer their abandonment. increasing in number, the purer stock of Criollos Several species appear to have transplanted, le in the Sierra Madre are uncommon or tolerated, protected, or culvated in the threatened. Southwest, but L. berlandieri is among the most prominent in the Tucson Basin. Its fruit were eaten SHEEP, BORREGO, CORDERO (Ovis aries). While fresh, dried in the sun, or boiled down into a heavy both Merino and Churra land races were syrup for year-around storage and use. Through introduced to Mexico just as early as cale and the 1980s, Pima Indian families would harvest goats, the ganado menor (sheep and goats) hundreds of pounds of wolerries in the spring for outnumbered cale in Chile Pepper Naon for the freezing or syrup making. Nave wolerries are first two centuries aer they arrived with the common in the Tucson Basin, but the earliest Spanish. Once widespread, the Navajo-Churro Chinese goji berries have likely been lost. Sheep are derived from the Churra land races of northern Spain. These sheep are the oldest extant breed nave to North America. Aer the Pueblo TURKEY, PAVO, GUAJALOTE, COCONO (Melleagris Revolt in 1682, they adapted to the semi-arid gallopavo). Known from prehistoric mes in the condions of the Rio Grande and Colorado Plateau. borderlands states, domescated turkeys, like Their double fleece comes in at least eight different macaws, may have regularly been imported from colors and their wool soon became the source of the south through the great trade center of Casas weaving industries among the Hispanic and Indian Grandes (Paquimé). Some archaeologists suggest rug weavers of Chile Pepper Naon. Their meat is that the wild Merriam’s turkey found on the edges also highly prized for its lean, grassy flavors that of the Tucson Basin is actually a feral domescated seldom get overpowered by a musk, even when breed from abandoned prehistoric populaons the animals are mature. Only 500 individuals brought up from Mesoamerica, which then survived into the 1970s, when tribes, universies hybridized with Gould’s turkey. Their feathers have and non-profits joined together to recover the also been used ceremonially and in woven robes. breed. Today, more than 5,000 individuals are This free-range fowl gleaned grasshoppers from registered through the Navajo-Churro Sheep Nave American fields. Several variees are sll Associaon, and Slow Food is working with four kept and eaten in southern Arizona. other organizaons on a Navajo-Churro Sheep Presidium to benefit nave sheepherders. They are raised within 75 miles of Tucson, and are recovering as part of a regional food tradion, but sll vulnerable.

10 TUCSON’S EXTANT, PREHISTORIC, OR HISTORIC FOOD CROP VARIETIES

Scientific name Common Name Parts used Spanish name Native names

Achnatherum Indian ricegrass Seed (grain) A’ud hymenoides Agave murpheyi Hohokam agave Meristem, leaf bases Mezcal, Mescal, A’ud Maguey Agave parry var. Huachuca agave Meristem, leaf bases huachucensis

Amaranthus Coxcomb amaranth Seed (psuedo- Bledos, Quelite Cuhukkia cruentus cereal), greens Amaranthus Grain amaranth Seed (psuedo- Huatle, Alegría, Guegui, Cuhukkia hypochondriacus cereal), greens Quelite

Canavalia Jackbean Seed (bean) Frijolón, Frijolillo, ensiformis Haba blanca Chenopodium Grain chenopod, Florets, seed Huazontle, Chual, Chu’al berlandieri Huazontle ((psuedo-cereal), Bledo

Cucurbita Green-striped Flowers, fruit flesh, Calabaza Arota Ha:l mamad, argyrosperma cushaw seed O’am ha:l

Cucurbita moschata Big cheese pumpkin Flowers, fruit flesh, Calabaza Segualca Shapijk? seed Cylindropuntia Cholla cactus Flower buds Choya Ciolim, Ha:nam versicolor x echinocarpa

Helianthus annuus Sunflower Seeds (achenes) Girasol Hi:wai

Hordeum pusillum Little barley Seed (grain) Cebada silvestre Sha’i, Washai

Lycium cf. Wolfberry Fruit Salicieso, Bachata, Koawul, Kuawul berlandieri Joso Opuntia Prickly pear Fruit Tuna I:bhai engelmannii Opuntia ficus- Prickly pear Fruit , Pads Nopal de Castilla Naw indica Panicum hirticaule Sonoran panicgrass Seed (grain) Sagüi, Mijo, Sagui

Phaseolus Tepary bean, black Seed (bean) Tépari negro, S-cuk bawi acutifolius Yorimuni

11 Scientific name Common Name Parts used Spanish name Native names

Phaseolus Tepary bean, Seed (bean) Tépari amarillo, O’am bawi acutifolius yellow-brown Yorimuni Phaseolus Tepary bean, white Seed (bean) Tépari blanco, S-tota bawi acutifolius Yorimuni Phaseolus lunatus Lima bean, mottled Seed (bean) Lima, Sieva Hawul

Phaseolus vulgaris Common bean, red Seed (bean) Frijol rosado S-wegi mu:ñ, or pink Wepegi mu:ñ, Phaseolus vulgaris Common bean, Seed (bean) Frijol bayo, Frijol S-oam mu:ñ yellow or sulfur amarillo

Zea mays Chapalote flinty Seed (cereal) flour Chapalote, popcorn or popped, husk Maíz reventador

Zea mays 6o-day 8-rowed Seed (cereal) flour, Harinoso de Ocho, S-moik hu:ni, S- flour or flint corn fermented, dried/ Maíz onaveño kauk hu:ni cracked or or fresh, husk Zea mays Prehistoric popcorn Seed (cereal) flour, Maíz reventador, Hu:ni fermented, dried/ Maíz palomero cracked or fresh, husk Zea mays Mexican June dent Seed (cereal) used Maíz Tuxpeño Ju:kam hu:ni corn for tamales & pozole

12 HISTORIC/MISSION ERA TO PRE-STATEHOOD HERBACEOUS CROPS

Scientific name Common mame Parts used Spanish name Native names

Allium cepa Shallot/I’itoi’s Bulb, shoots Cebollín, Cebolla I’itoi ciwol onion multiplicadora Allium sativum Sonoran pink-m or Bulb, shoots Ajo Rosado A:shos rose-tinged garlic Benincasa hispida Fuzzy melon, Wax Young fruit Calabaza blanca Mao gua, Dong gua var. chiequa gourd

Brassica oleracea Chinese broccoli, Fleshy flower buds, Bróculi chino Gai lan, , Kai lam, var. alboglabra Chinese kale Stalks Kai laam Brassica rapa var. Chinese flowering Leaves, stems, Coliflor Pak choy sum. Bok parachinensis cabbage flower buds choy Capsicum annuum Chiltepin Fruit Chiltepín, chile Ali ko’okol, cocori var. glabriusculum piquín Capsicum annuum Patagonia chile Fruit Chile Ko’okol, cocori

Cicer arietinum Garbanzo, Chickpea Seed (bean) Garbanzo Galwash

Citrullus lanatus Watermelon Fruit, seeds Sandía Sacobari

Cucumis melo Melon Fruit Melón Ge;li ba:sho Cucurbita maxima Hubbard squash, Fruit Calabaza grande, Nam gua, Winter squash Sun gua Sun gua Hordeum vulgare Barley Seed (grain) Cebada Siwa:yo Ipomaea aquatica Water spinach Leaves, stems Batata acuática Ong choy, Kangkong Lens culinaris Lentil Seed (bean) Lenteja Lanjeki, La:nji Lycium barbarum or Chinese boxthorn, Leaves, fruit Frutilla Gou qi cai L. chinense Goji Momordica Bitter melon, Leaves, stems, Bálsamo Fu qua, Ku gua charantia Balsam pear young fruit Pisum sativum Papago (dry) pea Seed (bean) Alverjón, Chícharo, Wihol Guisante Sorghum bicolor Hegari sorghum Seed (grain) Sorgo, Milomaíz, Huuñ ka:nu, S-to:ta Hegari chucul huuñ Triticum aestivum White Sonora wheat Seed (grain) Trigo flor o Sonora ‘S-moik pilkañ, blanco Tiikom, Tiligo Triticum aestivum Pima club wheat Seed (grain) Trigo Pima Olas pilkañ Vicia faba Fava (broad) bean Seed (bean) Haba ‘Aba Vigna unguiculata Black-eyed pea, Seed (bean) Yorimuni U’us baw, U’us Yard-long bean mu:ñ, Dou jia, Jiang dou

13 HISTORIC/MISSION ERA TREE CROPS

Scientific name Common name Parts used Spanish name Native names

Citrus x aurantifolia Mexican (Key) lime Fruit, juice, flowers Limón colima (azahar) Citrus limetioides Lemon-orange Fruit, juice, flowers Naranja-lima (azahar) Citrus X aurantium Sour orange, Seville Fruit, juice, rind, Naranja agria, Siw nalash orange flowers (azahar) Naranja amarga Citrus limon Lemon Fruit, juice, flowers Limón real Limo:n (azahar) Citrus limettioides Sweet lime Fruit, juice, flowers Lima dulce, Lima (azahar) chichona Citrus maxima Pummelo, Fruit, juice, flowers Pomelo, Toronja Grapefruit (azahar) Citrus medica Citron Fruit,juice, Rind, Cidra, Limón de flowers (azahar) Judea Citrus sinensis Orange, sweet Fruit, juice, flowers Naranja dulce Nalash (azahar) Cydonia Oblonga Quince Fruit, seeds, pectin Membrillo Mimbli:yo

Eriobotrya japonica Loquat Fruit Níspero, Míspero

Ficus carica Mission fig Fruit, leaves Higuera, Higo Su:na

Malus x domestica Apple Fruit, juice, cider Manzana Manisa:na, Ablis

Olea europea Mission olive Fruit, oil Olivo, Aceituna Tu: na

Phoenix dactylifera Date, Black Sphinx Fruit, fronds Dátil Chukut shoshol

Ziziphus jujuba Jujube, Chinese Fruit Dátil chino, Da zao date Azufaifo chino Prunus avium & Cherry Fruit Capul other species Prunus armeniaca Apricot Fruit Chabacano, Wiragogi Albaricoque Prunus domestica Plum, Damson, Fruit Ciruela Damacena Prune Prunus dulcis Almond, Mission Nut Almendra

Prunus persica Peach Fruit Durazno, Julashan, Nulash Melocotón Punica granatum Red pomegranate Fruit, juice Granada colorada S-wegi galniyo

Punica granatum White pomegranate Fruit, juice Granada blanca S-tota galniyo

Pyrus communis Pear Fruit Pera Pilhas

Vitis vinifera Mission grape Fruit, leaves Uva misionera U:dwis

14 LIVESTOCK

Scientific name Common name Part used Spanish name Native names

Bos bos Criollo cattle Hides, meat, Ganado criollo, Haiwani bloodmeal, Ganado corriente bonemeal Melleagris Domestic turkey Feathers, meat Guajalote, Chigüi, Tohwa, Kokono gallopavo Cócono, Güíjolo Ovis aries Churro sheep Fleece, mutton, Borrego churro, Kahwal, Kahwul horns Oveja

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