Baltimore Learn techniques while building this beautiful Card Table accent table for your home.

by Glen Huey Glen, a contributing editor for Popular , is also a woodworking books author and instructor. He continues to build for clients at his shop, Malcolm L. Huey & Son, in

Middletown, Ohio. See more of his work at hueyfurniture.com. ParrishAl by Photo Back edge line

beautiful demilune side I have oriented table always catches your the grain on the eye. Some of these tables blocks so the Aalso open into an equally attrac- quartersawn

edge is to the authorthe photosby Step tive and more functional four- front. This helps legged round table. The table Set the template and bricking onto reduce the move- the guide pin and make a slow, here is a inspired by an original ment of the face steady cut using a 1⁄2" skip-tooth attributed to Levin S. Tarr (1772- when complete. . The resulting apron thickness 1821) and built between 1795-1810 is slightly over 1" thick, completing in Baltimore, Md. The original the curved apron. is now part of the Colonial Wil- liamsburg Collection of Southern Furniture in Williamsburg, Va. The ornamentation on card tables from Baltimore varies quite a bit, but the construction details and design are consistent. Tarr’s table has all the construction details common to post-revolu- tionary Baltimore card tables. These features include the half- Make your fi rst cut to remove the template piece. Hold To trim the ends of the apron, patience and accuracy are round shape, a laminated apron, the apron as tight as possible against the during required. I clamped the apron to my miter , carefully two rear swing legs that overlap the this step. Then reset the fence to the fi nished height of checking the squareness of the end mark to the blade ends of the front rail when closed the apron, rotate the piece to the opposite edge and before making the cut. make your second cut. and a dovetailed rear apron. and/or yellow are the second- ary used in construction. half-circle template from a piece pivot point running parallel to the and rout the face again. Repeat On my table, the inlay has of 3⁄4"-thick medium density fiber- back edge. Then get your protrac- the steps for the third row. been simplifi ed and some of the board (MDF) that’s 18" x 34". The tor out and divide the top into 18° With the bricking complete inlay was purchased rather than finished diameter of the template sections. You should end up with and the outside curve routed, hand-fi t, as in the original. This is 331⁄2". To make the circular cut I a center line perpendicular from carry the line from the template saved time without affecting the used an auxiliary table that clamps your base line. that marks the back edge of your overall grace of the piece. to my band saw’s table. This setup Next, cut your pieces of yel- apron (the true half-circle loca- Because of the detail involved lets me insert a 1⁄4"-diameter guide low pine to size and trim the ends tion) up the sides of the apron. in this table I’ve focused on at 163⁄4" from the blade. at 9°. The 13⁄8" dimension is the Then move back to the band saw the inlay work and swing legs. A matching diameter hole height of the blocks. The blocks and reposition your center pin to A comfortable level with basic is made in the MDF board cen- are located on the template with 155⁄8" from the blade to shape the woodworking skills is advised tered on one long edge and set in the center of the block flush to rear surface of the apron. for building this piece. If helpful, 3⁄4". This allows the hole to not the edge of the template. Glue Next, head to the more step photos are available at be precisely at the back edge. The the pine blocks onto the template and carefully make two cuts. woodworkersedge.com. resulting shape will be larger in around the outer edge. The fi rst is to separate the apron circumference than a half-circle, When the glue on this fi rst row from the strip of MDF template Shaping the Apron which is fine. Save the falloff has dried, use a bearing-guided still attached. The second is to rip The apron, which is built up pieces for later in the project. fl ush-trim bit to sculpt the the apron to its 4" width. using rows of pine blocks, is a Now divide the template into front face of the blocks to the tem- Then the apron to the detail faithful to the original. It’s 10 pie-shaped wedges to help plate. Then repeat the process so that you can make a stable way to make an accurate align the pine blocks. To lay out with the second row of yellow pine 90° cuts exactly at the lines mark- curved shape. Begin by cutting a the wedges, start with a line at the blocks (staggering their location) ing the back edge of the apron.

21 Making the Apron a Frame Top nailed To join the curved front apron to strips into the frame of the table, the rear apron is dovetailed to the curved front apron at both ends. Lay out the dovetail pins on the just-cut ends of the front apron. Defi ne the pins with a and remove the waste material, keeping the bottom of each tail area at a right angle to the apron end. Transfer the pin layout onto I make my routing template using 1⁄2" Baltic My miter cradle isn’t fancy, but it is accurate. It needs the rear apron and cut the tails. . Rather than cut out and clean up a hole, I to hold the centerline of the leg parallel to the saw table Once fi t, glue it in place. make my template from four pieces and hold them during the cut. Don’t worry about how high off the table the Finally, cut a medial stretcher together with biscuits. This method leaves an accu- cradle holds the leg. Adjusting the blade height will set the 5⁄ cut’s depth perfectly. that fi ts snugly between the rear rate opening that is 1 8" wide x 4" long. and front aprons. Attach the stretcher with screws and the material to a depth of 3⁄8" in the half-way mark, carefully lift- 9⁄16", leaving about 1⁄2" at the rear the front screw holes. the apron. Do this in both front ing the leg from the knives. of the leg. You’ll need to fi t this The front legs have a bridle leg locations. Flip the leg end-for-end and notch to your apron making sev- joint at the top that straddles the take a second pass on each side by eral cuts at the band saw and fi n- front apron. To add strength, the Tapering the Legs holding the foot and the stop point ishing with sharp . also slips into a To make the tapered legs, first of the fi rst cut fl at on the infeed The rear legs attach to the cut in the face of the apron. rough cut the to size. I pre- table. This will cause the top of swing rails with the more tradi- I used a template to locate the fer using the to taper the the leg to “pop a wheelie” over the tional mortise-and-tenon joint. front leg dado in the apron. The legs. It gives me nearly identical knives and start the tapering cut Cut the 1⁄4" x 3" x 1"-deep mor- center of the legs actually falls on tapers on all the pieces. at the 41⁄2" mark. tises on the inner face of each of the 36° arc from the center of the Draw a line on each leg 41⁄2" the rear legs. top, where the fi rst level of brick- down from the top. Draw a second Mounting the Legs ing was laid. Place the template line at the center point of the total Select the legs that will be the Preparing the Leg Inlay (shown above) into position and length of the taper, measuring up front legs and lay out the area to The inlay work on this table starts clamp, making sure that the inside from the foot. Set the jointer to cut create the bridle joint to attach the on the legs. Using the miter gauge edges are tight to the apron. Use at a depth of 3⁄16". Then run each legs to the apron. Measure down on your table saw, make a cradle a dado or planer router bit with a face of each leg fl at on the jointer 4" from the top of the leg and 5⁄8" that will hold each leg in posi- top-mounted bearing to cut away starting at the foot. Stop the cut at from the front face. Remove about tion and level to the table saw top. Install a dado blade to cut the 1⁄4"-wide x 1⁄8"-deep dado for BALTIMORE CARD TABLE the cuff starting 4" up from the NO. ITEM DIMENSIONS (INCHES) MATERIAL COMMENTS foot of each leg. Cut all four sides T W L of all four legs. ❏ 32 Blocking pieces 13⁄8 11⁄2 53⁄16 Yellow pine The next inlay to prepare for is ❏ 1 Rear apron 3⁄4 4 33 Poplar Dovetails both ends the banding that runs across the ❏ 4 Legs 111⁄16 111⁄16 28 front of the front legs, on the out- ❏ 1 Medial stretcher 3⁄4 4 133⁄8 Poplar side face of the rear legs and along ❏ 1 Fixed rear rail 1 4 83⁄4 Poplar the bottom edge of the apron. ❏ 2 Swing rails 1 4 14 Poplar Cut to fi t To cut the recess for the band- ❏ 1 Swing rail spacer 3⁄8 4 51⁄2 Poplar ing on the legs, load a 1⁄4" straight ❏ 2 Tops 3⁄4 18 36 Mahogany Half round router bit into the router table. Set ❏ 2 Leg string inlay 11⁄2 1⁄16 24 Shop-made the fence 33⁄4" from the bit and ❏ 2 Cuff inlay 1⁄4 1⁄8 24 Maple Shop-made set the bit height for 1⁄16". Make ❏ 2 Top edge inlay 11⁄2 1⁄8 36 Maple Shop-made the cut. Because the leg tapers just ❏ 1 Top stringing 11⁄2 1⁄8 36 Maple Shop-made below the cut, it’s important to ❏ 1 Veneer inlay 8 10 Madrone burl keep the face side fl at against the ❏ 10 Table top clips 3⁄4 7⁄8 21⁄2 Poplar table during the cut.

22 POPULAR WOODWORKING ���� ������ ������� �����

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23 Stop/start marks

Holding the top of the leg against the fence and the face side toward the table Install a 1⁄16" bit in the router table and set the fence 1⁄4" from the bit. Set the (remember that the face side of the rear or back legs is the side facing out- bit to cut 1⁄8" deep. Run the cut on two edges of the face, from the 41⁄2" line ward, opposite of the mortise) make a pass over the bit, cutting the thickness at the top of the leg into the area that was cut for the cuff. of your inlay.

The cradle sup- ports the leg from underneath. The top piece with the oval template is clamped to the box, centering the cut between the top of the leg and the lower edge of the apron as well as the middle of the leg. Note that the orange- handled clamp serves to keep the leg positioned Start the scalloped stringing cut by inserting the bit into one side of the exist- lengthwise in the ing cut and move toward the opposite side until it just enters the second side cradle. cut. Keep the bushing against the pattern.

The next step is to cut the the band saw. It helps to install a string inlay along the zero-clearance throat plate at the length of the legs as shown in band saw. Add the glue sparingly on one in the Supplies box on page Knuckle-joint Legs the photo above right. For the into the cut, start the stringing 73) to cut the oval inlay recesses The knuckle joint at the rear of scalloped stringing at the tops at the top, and gently force it into on the legs. the table is one of the magical of the legs make a simple arched position. Sometimes I use a larger To trim the purchased oval parts of this project. While closed, pattern that will act as a guide piece of dowel as a rolling pin to inlay to fi t the leg recess, use dou- the table looks like a solid demi- for your router bushing, as shown help. Also, cut and fi t the 1⁄4"-wide ble-stick tape to attach the inlay lune table. The knuckle joints and above. It’s a good idea to mark the and 3⁄16"-thick cuff. I like to miter onto a scrap piece of . Place swing legs allow the table to open beginning and ending edges of the its corners for appearance. the same pattern used to cut the into a stable, full-size table. router base for reference. recess into position over the inlay Begin the twin knuckle joints Cut and install the stringing. I Oval Inlay and again, using the inlay kit as by cutting the three pieces to size cut the necessary thickness at the The last inlay pieces are the two directed, cut the inlay to match. that create the mechanism. Scribe table saw and ripped the width at ovals at the top of the front legs. Carefully remove the cut piece a line 11⁄4" in from the ends, and You need to build a simple three- of inlay from the scrap, apply the begin by laying out five equal MORE READING: piece U-shaped cradle that will glue and install. Place a piece of spaces. Mark the blocks as shown hold the leg steady. Another piece wax paper over the inlay, then to designate the waste areas. Mark Southern Furniture 1680-1830 of plywood is cut out for the oval cut a small oval scrap to act as a the top edge of all three pieces to by Ronald Hurst pattern and makes a fourth side to press over the wax paper and inlay. ensure they go back in position. (Harry N. Abrams) williamsburgmarketplace.com create a box. Use an inlay bushing Clamp the scrap in place over the At the table the blade and bit (I’ve included information inlay until the glue dries. height to the 11⁄4" line and make

24 POPULAR WOODWORKING Back cuts

To allow enough room for the swing rails to open, on the back side of the center rail draw a line 3⁄4" behind the To mark out the knuckle spacing, set one end of a ruler (at zero) on one side of the board and set shoulder cut at the saw. With a cut small cuts the 5" mark on the opposite edge of the board. Then transfer each of the inch marks to both ends to that line while maintaining the front edge shoulder. of the center rail and one end of each swing section. With the cuts made, chisel away the waste. the cuts that defi ne the joint’s fi n- Apron Veneer gers. Cut on the waste side of the Now it’s time to veneer. The line and nibble away the waste. front of the apron is veneered With the fingers all cut, the from a single sheet of mahogany Knuckle joint fi xed rear rail needs to have 45° veneer. I followed the pattern on back-cuts made in the notches to the antique table and oriented the Tenon layout allow the fi ngers on the swing rails grain at 45°. Roll out the veneer to open correctly. and mark the three pieces on a Round the outside edge of the 45° angle. I made the panels 1⁄2" fi xed rail and the inside edges of oversized to allow for trimming. the swing rails. I used a quarter to Lay out and cut the panels for the draw the circle and rounded over apron with a utility knife. the edge with the . Apply a generous amount of 1⁄ Position the pieces into place contact cement on the apron and With the length of the two swing legs determined ( 4" beyond the apron corner) you’re ready to lay out the tenon location on the end of each piece. against a tall straight fence on your panels. When the cement is ready, Then cut the tenons and the corresponding mortises in the legs. press leaving a small space carefully place the panels onto the between the ends of each set of apron. Use a fl ush-trim router bit fi ngers. Use a 3⁄16"-diameter drill to trim the edges of the veneer. reposition the fence and cut the bit to drill for the steel-rod hinge. To help make a clean cut, work in bottom edge of the apron for the 3⁄ The hole should be 8" from the the direction of the veneer grain. banding inlay. Dowel rod end of the fi ngers and 1⁄2" in from Carefully trim the ends with a Next it’s back to freehand rout- the outer edge. straightedge and a sharp knife. ing to connect the recesses you To determine the fi nal length just cut. Install the 1⁄16" bit into of the two swing legs, clamp the Apron Stringing a trim router along with a small knuckle assembly to the rear To cut the recesses for the string- bushing to act as a pilot. Clamp a apron, and mark and cut each ing on the apron faces I used the straightedge into position that’s swing leg 1 ⁄4" longer than the scrap pieces from the MDF apron long enough to allow the bit to apron corner at each end. This is template to set up a on the rout- begin in one of the string lines. I the outside edge of the leg. Then er table, which should still be set mark the edges of the router base lay out the tenon for joining the up for the stringing on the legs. plate to help me with this cut. swing rails to the rear legs. With the jig in place (see Using contact cement, install With the mortise and tenons photo, next page), plunge the the banding along the bottom made on the swing rails and legs, apron onto the bit and spin the edge of the apron. The banding add the swing-rail spacer centered assembly in the jig to the oppo- I’ve listed in the Supplies was on the inside face of the fi xed rail site line. Repeat this process on somewhat expensive and there with glue and brads. Set this each panel. Reposition the fence are alternatives available from With the oversized veneer panels assembled section aside for now. to 31⁄8" and make the same cuts, Rockler for signifi cantly less. you should not have trouble plac- Don’t attach the legs to the swing creating the string inlay line for Cut to size and fit the shop- ing the veneer panels on the apron. rails or the knuckle assembly to the bottom of the apron. made string inlay using . Make sure to roll the panels to the table yet, there’s still some To complete the work using Here you will need to take your smooth any small air bubbles. I use a work to do on the apron section. this jig, install a 1⁄4" straight bit, time to install the inlay. A little section of dowel rod for this step.

25 Bit location marked on tape

To rout the grooves for the apron stringing, attach the template scraps to a sacrifi cial fence on After marking the legs at the meeting point of the apron, your router table. Attach them so that the apron just fi ts inside the pair. Install a 1⁄16" straight bit remove the legs from the swing rail. Use a router and set to an 1⁄8" height and mark both sides of the bit width on a piece of tape that extends about 5" straight-cutting bit to remove as much of the material as from the bit. Mark a line that is 3⁄4" from each end of all the panels of the apron. Set the fence 5⁄8" possible. Don’t cut past the lines. Finish up any remaining from the bit and you’re ready to rout. material with a sharp chisel.

To cut the veneer sections, simply make a fi rst cut on the end of the With the template secured, install veneer strip, then slide the veneer a 5⁄8" straight-cutting bit with a out about an 11⁄4" and make a sec- 3⁄4"-outside diameter bushing into ond pass. This creates the fi rst piece the router and remove waste mate- of edge band veneer. You will need This is the edge of the table that everyone will look at, so take your time rial to create the recess for the edge 22 or more pieces of this curved fi tting the veneer sections. Hold each piece in place after fi tting to accurately banding. . match the next piece to it. glue goes a long way in that small to all surfaces of the bridle joint, To begin the detail work on the to rout the recess for the veneer. line. Roll the inlay into the groove clamp in place until set, then fi n- top, fi rst create a half-circle tem- Use patience to set the depth with a section of dowel. ish with a #12 x 11⁄4" wood screw plate guide to rout the recess for of cut to the veneer thickness. With everything dry and set, from the inside of the leg. the edge banding. The template This has to be worked in a couple carefully use a scraper to bring the Cut and fi t glue blocks into the is made the same way you cut the passes. Be sure to keep one pass inlay fl ush to the veneer surface. corners of the table. These will top pieces. Start with a 17" x 35" with the 3⁄4" OD bushing tight need to be cut on a slight angle to blank and use a 167⁄8" location on against the template. Leave the Fitting the Legs ensure a secure fi t. the pin. Once the template is cut template in place (we’ll need it Assemble and clamp in place the to half round, it’s necessary to cut again shortly). swing leg assembly, then pull the The Top & More Details the back edge to achieve the 7⁄8" To ensure the edge banding rear legs tight to the apron while Set up and cut the half-round piec- area at the rear of the top. The goal will accurately follow the curve leveling the top edge, and mark es for the tops at the band saw as here is to have a 7⁄8" set-back show- of the top, you need to make the area on the leg that is to be cut you did the template in the fi rst ing on all sides of the top once the another jig and head back to the away to a depth of a 1⁄4". I used a step. Cut the top halves oversized template is in place. band saw. router to remove the waste. Then by placing the pivot hole at 173⁄4" Attach the template with dou- Start with a scrap piece of ply- glue the legs to the swing rails and back from the front edge of the top ble-stick tape at the edges of the wood that is 41⁄2" wide and 18" attach these to the table. and centered in from side to side. tops and two screws (located in long. Locate a pin hole at one end, Now make the fi nal connec- The pin on your circle-cutting jig the area that is to be covered with place the circle-cutting jig pin in tion of the front legs. Add glue should also be at 173⁄4". a veneer inlay). You’re now ready the 167⁄8" hole, then make a swing

26 POPULAR WOODWORKING

Clamp this tem- plate in place, To cut the string inlay on the top, install an 1⁄8" and follow the bit and the bushing from an inlay kit without the direction on the additional spacer, and run the groove guided by inlay kit to cut the top template that’s still in place. This groove the area and the runs around the entire top edge. matching inlay. cut on the piece, creating a small When ready, carefully apply the radius on the jig. edge band to the top. Press the Next, with strips of veneer pieces for a tight fit. Allow the cut to 4", lay one strip onto the adhesive to dry, then trim the plywood, lay a second piece of veneer fl ush to the outside edge plywood on top of that to keep with your router. things fl at, and with the veneer extended, make a pass on the end Stringing and More Inlay (see photo at center left). To complete the inlay work on the To trim the veneer pieces, use top there are more string inlays The hinge I used allows the joint to a sharp utility knife and straight- and another veneer insert. Start Here I have changed the bearing on a remain loose when moving. This 1 edge to match up the edge of the with the string inlay that sepa- fl ush-trim bit to allow for a ⁄16" cut. gives the joint space to move with- You need to run the top and bottom cross banding while fitting the rates the veneer edge banding out rubbing the two parts of the top of both the top and the sub-top. together. pieces to the top. Work around the you just attached from the main entire top and number the pieces top (see photo above left).When as they are fi t. Remove the pieces you need to join two pieces of the stringing before installing. Leave Make the wooden clips, which and apply the contact cement. stringing, do so with a scarf joint, it in the groove to dry. It will hold are 3⁄4" thick x 7⁄8" wide x 21⁄4" as shown. its shape when dry. long. one end to fi t into Move to the back edge of the All that’s left is creating the the grooves and install using #8 x top. Remove the top template, fi nal bit of stringing on the top’s 11⁄4" slot-head wood screws. Final SUPPLIES then make a 9"-diameter template edge. Create the shop-made sand the entire table and you’re Rockler for the inner inlay (seen only with stringing for the edge and install ready to fi nish. 800-279-4441 or rockler.com the top closed). Because we need this with the contact cement. The fi nish begins with black to re-install this template I mark When dry, scrape and sand all . Place tape at the lower edge 2 • oval inlays 11⁄4" x 21⁄2" #18440, $13.29 each the center line of the template and the inlay fl ush with the top. of the cuff inlay and paint two a corresponding line on the top. light coats of acrylic latex paint on 1 • mahogany veneer, 36" x 96" The inlay piece was made from Completing the Top the foot of the legs. This will cre- #13953, $59.99 a section of Madrone burl veneer The installation of the hinges is ate the ebonized look. Once the 1 • inlay bushing and bit that I had in my shop, again using all hand work. Lay out the loca- paint has dried, apply two coats #83642, $29.99 the template bushing kit. Glue tion and hinge shape, and cut the of blonde shellac, a coat of dark Dover Inlay Mfg. Co. the inlay into position and when area with . brown glaze and fi nish with three 301-223-8620 or doverinlay.com dry, replace the template and To attach the top to the base additional coats of shellac. Let the cut a groove around the inlay for I use a 1⁄4" three-wing slot cutter shellac dry and hand rub the table 1 • apron banding, 1⁄16" x 1⁄4" another band of string inlay. bit in the router table to make to a satin fi nish with steel wool #356, $25 minimum order With all the grooves cut it’s the slots in the apron. I then use and wool lube. Then apply a few Londonderry Ltd. time to make the stringing and wooden clips to attach the top. coats of paste wax. 610-593-6239 or install the pieces in the top. Space them equally along the Whether you build this table londonderry-brasses.com Remember, a snug fi t is required front and rear, and place a few with or without the inlay details, 2 • card table hinges on the stringing. Because of the along the medial stretcher. The you should be very pleased with #H-34, $24 each tight radius of the inner circle, it cut should be a 1⁄2" down from the beauty – and function – of this Prices correct at time of publication. may be necessary to dampen the the apron edge. Southern furniture classic. PW

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