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The Best of Budapest

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The Best of Budapest c6581-8 Ch01.F 3/18/02 10:48 AM Page 5 1 The Best of Budapest Budapest’s extraordinary ambience can be felt everywhere. From the old women selling boxes of raspberries in the heart of downtown Pest, cars careen- ing by on all sides, to the young boys playing soccer in the green foothills of Buda, where the air is fresh and clean, this city and its people take you in and hold you tight. Budapest is a remarkable and yet wholly unpretentious place. Explore it fully. Turn off any of the main boulevards and you’ll quickly find yourself in a quiet residential neighborhood. The rich scent of a hearty gulyás (stew) wafts from a kitchen window. A woman with a brightly colored kerchief tied about her head sweeps the sidewalk with a homemade broom. Cigarette smoke fogs the cavelike entryway of the corner pub, and the sign on the door states that beer is served as early as 7am. Rows of salamis hang in the window of the grocery store next door. In the park across the way, men play chess in the shade of chestnut trees, young lovers kiss on a bench, and the famed Hungarian pedigree dog, the vizsla, can be glimpsed darting through the trees. Below, you’ll find our personal take on the best experiences the city has to offer. 1 Favorite Little Adventures The many grand attractions of the city gossiping, and watching the chil- are all described in this book, and are dren race around the yard, dodg- certainly worth a visit. For us, how- ing flower pots and laundry racks. ever, exceptional beauty and fascina- The main entrance doors to many tion are to be found in the city’s apartment buildings are left day-to-day self. Consider, for instance, unlocked during the daytime the following small adventures off the hours. See chapter 7, “Strolling beaten track. Around Budapest,” for further • Discovering the Courtyards of wanderings. Budapest: Budapest’s residential • Exploring the Neighborhood streets are truly enchanting, but it Markets: There is scarcely a is inside the courtyards of the neighborhood in Budapest with- buildings that the city’s greatest out its own outdoor produce mar- secret is held: Budapesters are ket. Professional vendors mix with villagers at heart. Fruit trees and elderly peasants who are in for the flower gardens flourish, cats day with a wagon of fresh-picked lounge in the sun, and jars of fruits and veggies. Everything is pickled vegetables line the win- fresh and inexpensive. Shop for dow ledges. Nearly every apart- a picnic lunch or simply wander ment building in this city has an around soaking up the vibrant open-air courtyard in its center, workaday atmosphere. See “Shop- where pensioners sit on the com- ping A to Z,” in chapter 8, mon balconies smoking cigarettes, “Budapest Shopping,” for more on market shopping. c6581-8 Ch01.F 3/18/02 10:48 AM Page 6 6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BUDAPEST • Riding the Trams: Armed with Europe. See “Parks, Gardens & your daily transit pass, get the lay Playgrounds,” in chapter 6, of the land and more from the “Exploring Budapest.” windows of the city’s many trams. • Taking a Walk in the Buda Board a tram and ride it to the ter- Hills: It’s hard to believe that such minus and back, or disembark an expanse of hilly forest is right along the way fo a closer look here within the capital city. There around—a great and economical are hiking trails aplenty; every way to spend a rainy day. See Budapest native has a favorite. Ask “Getting Around,” in chapter 3, around. See chapter 6, “Exploring “Getting to Know Budapest,” for Budapest,” for more of the Buda details on public transportation. Hills. • Packing a Picnic for the City • Strolling Through the Jewish Park: On a nice summer day, it District: Budapest has the largest seems that all of Budapest has Jewish population of any city on come to City Park to enjoy the the European continent (outside weather and each other’s company. Russia). Pest’s historic Jewish Children of all ages fill the play- neighborhood, run-down but rel- grounds and linger by the atively unchanged, resonates with entrances of the amusement park, the magic and tragedy of the past. the zoo, and the circus. Bathers See “Walking Tour 4: The Jewish flock to the historic Széchenyi District,” in chapter 7, “Strolling Baths. Mostly, though, people Around Budapest.” come just to stroll, a time- honored pastime in Central 2 The Best Places to Enjoy a Sunset • From the Riverside: Locals and evening air. At the apex of the visitors alike stroll along the long, slow ride you will have an Danube bank (Pest side) in the astonishing view of the entire city early evening, taking in the chang- and the falling sun. See p. 120. ing light over the shimmering • From the Tower of Saint water. Find a free bench, or ven- Stephen’s Church: This is the ture out onto one of the bridges highest point in Pest; from here, that span the Danube to enjoy a the only barrier to the horizon is different view of the glorious river smog or haze (on a bad day). For that snakes its way through the those who can handle it, the long, very soul of Central Europe. arduous ascent makes the vista all • From the Ferris Wheel: The the more pleasurable. Others can beautiful old yellow Ferris wheel ride the newly installed lift to the in Budapest’s amusement park top. See p. 107. will lift you gently up into the 3 Favorite Off-the-Beaten-Track Museums • Zsigmond Kun Folk Art former apartment are ceramics Museum: For almost the entirety and brandy flasks, tapestries and of the 20th century a fellow chairs, sheep bells, shepherds’ named Zsigmond Kun traveled hats, and hundreds of other the back roads of Hungary, col- examples of Hungarian folk art. lecting and cataloging all manner See p. 115. of folk art. On display here in his c6581-8 Ch01.F3/18/0210:48AMPage7 SLOVAKIA Sárospatak UKRAINE Vienna Aggtelek Bratislava 37 Miskolc Tokaj 10 D Eger E65 a 16 nu Hollókó be R MUSEUMS OFF-THE-BEATEN-TRACK FAVORITE Fertórákos 1 iver Esztergom Vác Tisza Sopron Visegrád E71 AUSTRIA Gyór Szentendre Fertód Tata Kószeg Budapest Debrecen Sárvár E71 The Great Szombathely Székesfehérvár VeszprVeszprémém Ják 8 Herend 5 Balatonfúred Plain Tihany Peninsula Oriszentpeter Hévíz 71 Siófok Kecskemét Keszthely Lake Balaton Tisza 96 Balatonfóldvár SLOVENIA Szigliget Bugac Danube 6 5 ROMANIA Szeged 56 Pécs Hungary CROATIA Siklos E75 0 100 Mi Railway SERBIA Belgrade 0 100 Km 7 c6581-8 Ch01.F 3/18/02 10:48 AM Page 8 8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BUDAPEST • Imre Varga Collection: This vintage vehicles—trains, motorcy- small museum features the sensi- cles, bikes, early model cars, tive, piercing work of Imre Varga, antique horse buggies, and more. Hungary’s best-known contempo- Kids adore this fabulous trip rary sculptor. Of particular note is through history. See p. 120. the shaded garden where Varga’s • Statue Park: This desolate and forlorn, broken figures stand and wind swept outdoor museum dis- sit on benches resting. See p. 115. plays a number of fine examples • Postal Stamp Museum: Genera- of statues that once dominated tions of philatelists the world over the landscape—both urban and have admired the artistic creations rural—of Central and Eastern of Magyar Posta. Here you’ll find Europe and the Soviet Union. The rack after rack of the country’s place is a bit like an elephant finest stamps. See p. 111. dying ground, covered with the • Transport Museum: This vast Socialist realist detritus of modern and wonderful museum features history, oddly compelling in its large-scale models of all sorts of vanished power. See p. 112. 4 Favorite Places to Kill an Hour • A Bench on the Danube Prome- Coffee and sweets are still very nade: Find an empty bench on inexpensive, and customers may this heavily trafficked pedestrian linger for hours without drawing walkway on the bank of the any unkind looks from the wait- Danube. Sit back and drink in ers. See “Traditional Coffee- Budapest. houses,” in chapter 5, “Where to • Margaret Island: This lovely park Dine in Budapest.” in the middle of the river between • A Bench on Tóth Árpád sétány: Buda and Pest is beautifully main- This is the perfect alternative to tained, with fountains, floral gar- the Danube Promenade, for those dens, green fields, and the like. who prefer a quiet urban bench to Find yourself a piece of green one on a main thoroughfare. Tóth and settle down for a while. See Árpád sétany is a surprisingly p. 116. untraveled street, with great • The Baths: There is no place benches but few pedestrians, that quite like the baths to unwind. runs the entire length of the The city’s fabled thermal waters Castle District, on the Buda side invite you to loosen up, slow (that is, the non-Danube side). down, and relax. See “Spa Bathing See “Walking Tour 2: The Castle & Swimming: Budapest’s Most District,” in chapter 7, “Strolling Popular Thermal Baths,” in chap- Around Budapest.” ter 6, “Exploring Budapest.” • A Borozó: Wine cellars are every- • A Traditional Coffeehouse: where in Budapest, capital city of Imperial Budapest is long, long a wine-loving land. Each cellar has gone, but a few of the trappings its own house wine, its own local still remain. None is quite so clientele, and a chair with your pleasant as the traditional, ornate name on it.
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