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1 The Best of

Budapest’s extraordinary ambience can be felt everywhere. From the old women selling boxes of raspberries in the heart of downtown Pest, cars careen- ing by on all sides, to the young boys playing soccer in the green foothills of Buda, where the air is fresh and clean, this city and its people take you in and hold you tight. Budapest is a remarkable and yet wholly unpretentious place. Explore it fully. Turn off any of the main boulevards and you’ll quickly find yourself in a quiet residential neighborhood. The rich scent of a hearty gulyás (stew) wafts from a kitchen window. A woman with a brightly colored kerchief tied about her head sweeps the sidewalk with a homemade broom. Cigarette smoke fogs the cavelike entryway of the corner pub, and the sign on the door states that beer is served as early as 7am. Rows of salamis hang in the window of the grocery store next door. In the park across the way, men play chess in the shade of chestnut trees, young lovers kiss on a bench, and the famed Hungarian pedigree dog, the vizsla, can be glimpsed darting through the trees. Below, you’ll find our personal take on the best experiences the city has to offer.

1 Favorite Little Adventures The many grand attractions of the city gossiping, and watching the chil- are all described in this book, and are dren race around the yard, dodg- certainly worth a visit. For us, how- ing flower pots and laundry racks. ever, exceptional beauty and fascina- The main entrance doors to many tion are to be found in the city’s apartment buildings are left day-to-day self. Consider, for instance, unlocked during the daytime the following small adventures off the hours. See chapter 7, “Strolling beaten track. Around Budapest,” for further • Discovering the Courtyards of wanderings. Budapest: Budapest’s residential • Exploring the Neighborhood streets are truly enchanting, but it Markets: There is scarcely a is inside the courtyards of the neighborhood in Budapest with- buildings that the city’s greatest out its own outdoor produce mar- secret is held: Budapesters are ket. Professional vendors mix with villagers at heart. Fruit trees and elderly peasants who are in for the flower gardens flourish, cats day with a wagon of fresh-picked lounge in the sun, and jars of fruits and veggies. Everything is pickled vegetables line the win- fresh and inexpensive. Shop for dow ledges. Nearly every apart- a picnic lunch or simply wander ment building in this city has an around soaking up the vibrant open-air courtyard in its center, workaday atmosphere. See “Shop- where pensioners sit on the com- ping A to Z,” in chapter 8, mon balconies smoking cigarettes, “Budapest Shopping,” for more on market shopping. c6581-8 Ch01.F 3/18/02 10:48 AM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BUDAPEST

• Riding the Trams: Armed with Europe. See “Parks, Gardens & your daily transit pass, get the lay Playgrounds,” in chapter 6, of the land and more from the “Exploring Budapest.” windows of the city’s many trams. • Taking a Walk in the Buda Board a tram and ride it to the ter- Hills: It’s hard to believe that such minus and back, or disembark an expanse of hilly forest is right along the way fo a closer look here within the capital city. There around—a great and economical are hiking trails aplenty; every way to spend a rainy day. See Budapest native has a favorite. Ask “Getting Around,” in chapter 3, around. See chapter 6, “Exploring “Getting to Know Budapest,” for Budapest,” for more of the Buda details on public transportation. Hills. • Packing a Picnic for the City • Strolling Through the Jewish Park: On a nice summer day, it District: Budapest has the largest seems that all of Budapest has Jewish population of any city on come to City Park to enjoy the the European continent (outside weather and each other’s company. Russia). Pest’s historic Jewish Children of all ages fill the play- neighborhood, run-down but rel- grounds and linger by the atively unchanged, resonates with entrances of the amusement park, the magic and tragedy of the past. the zoo, and the circus. Bathers See “Walking Tour 4: The Jewish flock to the historic Széchenyi District,” in chapter 7, “Strolling Baths. Mostly, though, people Around Budapest.” come just to stroll, a time- honored pastime in Central

2 The Best Places to Enjoy a Sunset • From the Riverside: Locals and evening air. At the apex of the visitors alike stroll along the long, slow ride you will have an bank (Pest side) in the astonishing view of the entire city early evening, taking in the chang- and the falling sun. See p. 120. ing light over the shimmering • From the Tower of Saint water. Find a free bench, or ven- Stephen’s Church: This is the ture out onto one of the bridges highest point in Pest; from here, that span the Danube to enjoy a the only barrier to the horizon is different view of the glorious river smog or haze (on a bad day). For that snakes its way through the those who can handle it, the long, very soul of Central Europe. arduous ascent makes the vista all • From the Ferris Wheel: The the more pleasurable. Others can beautiful old yellow Ferris wheel ride the newly installed lift to the in Budapest’s amusement park top. See p. 107. will lift you gently up into the

3 Favorite Off-the-Beaten-Track Museums • Zsigmond Kun Folk Art former apartment are ceramics Museum: For almost the entirety and brandy flasks, tapestries and of the 20th century a fellow chairs, sheep bells, shepherds’ named Zsigmond Kun traveled hats, and hundreds of other the back roads of , col- examples of Hungarian folk art. lecting and cataloging all manner See p. 115. of folk art. On display here in his c6581-8 Ch01.F 3/18/02 10:48 AM Page 7

FAVORITE OFF-THE-BEATEN-TRACK MUSEUMS 7 Hungary 100 Mi UKRAINE 100 Km ROMANIA 0 0 Debrecen Sárospatak Tokaj

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8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BUDAPEST

• Imre Varga Collection: This vintage vehicles—trains, motorcy- small museum features the sensi- cles, bikes, early model cars, tive, piercing work of Imre Varga, antique horse buggies, and more. Hungary’s best-known contempo- Kids adore this fabulous trip rary sculptor. Of particular note is through history. See p. 120. the shaded garden where Varga’s • Statue Park: This desolate and forlorn, broken figures stand and wind swept outdoor museum dis- sit on benches resting. See p. 115. plays a number of fine examples • Postal Stamp Museum: Genera- of statues that once dominated tions of philatelists the world over the landscape—both urban and have admired the artistic creations rural—of Central and Eastern of Magyar Posta. Here you’ll find Europe and the Soviet Union. The rack after rack of the country’s place is a bit like an elephant finest stamps. See p. 111. dying ground, covered with the • Transport Museum: This vast Socialist realist detritus of modern and wonderful museum features history, oddly compelling in its large-scale models of all sorts of vanished power. See p. 112.

4 Favorite Places to Kill an Hour • A Bench on the Danube Prome- Coffee and sweets are still very nade: Find an empty bench on inexpensive, and customers may this heavily trafficked pedestrian linger for hours without drawing walkway on the bank of the any unkind looks from the wait- Danube. Sit back and drink in ers. See “Traditional Coffee- Budapest. houses,” in chapter 5, “Where to • : This lovely park Dine in Budapest.” in the middle of the river between • A Bench on Tóth Árpád sétány: Buda and Pest is beautifully main- This is the perfect alternative to tained, with fountains, floral gar- the Danube Promenade, for those dens, green fields, and the like. who prefer a quiet urban bench to Find yourself a piece of green one on a main thoroughfare. Tóth and settle down for a while. See Árpád sétany is a surprisingly p. 116. untraveled street, with great • The Baths: There is no place benches but few pedestrians, that quite like the baths to unwind. runs the entire length of the The city’s fabled thermal waters Castle District, on the Buda side invite you to loosen up, slow (that is, the non-Danube side). down, and relax. See “Spa Bathing See “Walking Tour 2: The Castle & Swimming: Budapest’s Most District,” in chapter 7, “Strolling Popular Thermal Baths,” in chap- Around Budapest.” ter 6, “Exploring Budapest.” • A Borozó: Wine cellars are every- • A Traditional Coffeehouse: where in Budapest, capital city of Imperial Budapest is long, long a wine-loving land. Each cellar has gone, but a few of the trappings its own house wine, its own local still remain. None is quite so clientele, and a chair with your pleasant as the traditional, ornate name on it. See “The Bar Scene,” coffeehouse, symbol of turn- chapter 9, “Budapest After Dark.” of-the-20th-century–Budapest. c6581-8 Ch01.F 3/18/02 10:48 AM Page 9

BEST HOTEL BETS 9

5 Favorite Experiences Outside of Budapest • Cruising the Danube: There is you’re here in winter, it’ll be a nothing like a boat ride on a fine particularly memorable experi- sunny day. From Budapest, head ence. See p. 194. up the river to the charming • Climbing the Eger Minaret: This towns of Szentendre and Visegrád beautiful, small city in northern along the Danube Bend. See Hungary is home to one of the “Exploring the Danube Bend,” country’s most impressive Turkish chapter 10, “The Danube Bend.” ruins: a 14-sided, 110-foot-tall • Visiting the Margit Kovács minaret. Those who succeed in Museum (Szentendre): The climbing the steep, cramped, spiral highly original works of Hungary’s staircase are justly rewarded with a best-known ceramic artist are dis- spectacular view. See p. 198. played in this expansive museum • Exploring Pécs: When you wan- in a lovely village on the Danube der around this delightful city in Bend. Kovács’s unique sculptures southern Hungary, you’ll discover of elderly women and her folk-art- why it’s known as the 2,000-year- influenced friezes of village life are old city. Pécs is home to one of especially moving. See p. 178. Hungary’s most pleasing central • Hiking in the Hills Outside squares and some great examples Szigliget: You can hike up to the of Turkish architecture. See fantastic ruins of a 13th-century “The 2,000-Year-Old City of castle above this scenic little vil- Pécs,” chapter 13, “Southern lage in the Lake Balaton region, or Hungary: The Great Plain & go a few miles farther north and the Mecsek Hills.” hike up into hills covered with • Sampling Szeged’s Fruit and vineyards. See “Szigliget,” chapter Vegetable Market: At the main 11, “The Lake Balaton Region.” open-air market behind the bus • Swimming in the Thermal Lake station, in this town near the Ser- at Hévíz: Even in the bitterest bian and Romanian borders, local spell of winter, the temperature in farmers sell their bounty of Europe’s largest thermal lake peaches, apricots, cherries, and seldom dips below 85° to 90°F. pears, as well as fresh flowers, and Hungarians swim here year- of course, dried paprika wreaths. round, and you can, too! If See p. 215.

6 Best Hotel Bets • Best Historic Hotel: The splen- is the hotel of choice for corporate did, sprawling Hotel Gellért, XI. visitors, with conference facilities, Gellért tér 1 (& 1/385-2200), a state-of-the-art business center, first opened in 1918, is still one of and an efficient staff. See p. 60. the city’s most elegant and charm- • Best for a Romantic Getaway: ing hotels. The Art Nouveau Any of the pensions in the Buda Gellért Baths are the most popular Hills would be suitable, but the in Budapest. See p. 63. Vadvirág Panzió, II. Nagybányai • Best for Business Travelers: The út 18 (& 1/275-0200), is partic- Kempinski Hotel Corvinus, V. ularly fetching, surrounded as it is Erzsébet tér (& 800/426-3135 in by sloping gardens and terraces. North America, or 1/429-3777), See p. 73. c6581-8 Ch01.F 3/18/02 10:48 AM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF BUDAPEST

• Best for Families: Parents will • Best Location: This one is a tie appreciate the location of the between the only two hotels in Hotel Liget, VI. Dózsa György út Buda’s elegant and timeless Castle 106 (& 1/269-5300), across the District: The Hilton Budapest, I. street from City Park’s zoo, Hess András tér 1–3 (& 1/488- amusement park, and circus. See 6600), is a luxurious place p. 68. right next door to the Matthias • Best Moderately Priced Hotel: Church and the Fisherman’s Hotel Astra Vendégház, I. Vám Bastion, while Hotel Kulturin- u. 6 (& 1/214-1906), opened nov, I. Szentháromság tér 6 in 1997, is perfectly situated (& 1/355-0122), is a modest in Buda’s quaint Watertown guest house just across the square. neighborhood, just a 10-minute See p. 67. walk from the Castle District, and • Best Service: At the San Marco minutes from the Danube Guest House, III. San Marco u. 6 embankment. See p. 64. (& 1/388-9997), the charming • Best Budget Hotel: The accom- proprietors, who speak fluent modations at Charles Apartment English, are happy to go out of House, I. Hegyalja út 23 (& 1/ their way to provide guests 201-1796), are comfortable and with whatever they need: restau- clean flats—with bathrooms and rant reservations, theater tickets, fully equipped kitchens—in Buda train schedules, and more. See apartment buildings. See p. 66. p. 70. • Best Pension: The charming • Best View: You’ll either see the Gizella Panzió, XII. Arató u. full Pest skyline or overlook the 42/b (& 1/249-2281), built into delightful streets of the Castle the side of a hill, has a lovely view District at the Hilton Budapest, I. of the valley in a quiet neighbor- Hess András tér 1–3 (& 1/488- hood that’s relatively easy to reach 6600), widely considered the by bus. The rooms are quaint and city’s classiest hotel. See p. 67. sunny. See p. 71. 7 Best Dining Bets • Best for a Romantic Dinner: At lovely Udvarház a Hármashatár- Náncsi Néni Véndéglóje, II. hegyen, I. Hármashatár-hegyi út 2 Órdögárok út 80 (& 1/397- (& 1/388-8780), is beyond 2742), high up in the Buda Hills, words. High in the Buda Hills, you can dine in the casual ele- you’ll enjoy a great panoramic gance of an outdoor garden in view. See p. 95. summer, with live music at night. • Best Wine List: Gundel, XIV. See p. 95. Állatkerti út 2 (& 1/322-1002), • Best Decor: The huge branches of the city’s fanciest and most famous a wonderful old tree create a restaurant, complements its canopy under which guests dine traditional dishes prepared in by candlelight in the interior innovative ways with a fabulous courtyard at Kis Buda Gyöngye, and extensive wine list. See p. 90. III. Kenyeres u. 34 (& 1/368- • Best Gulyás: While fine gulyás 6402). See p. 96. abound in this town, you surely • Best View: You won’t be able to won’t be disappointed with the pronounce the restaurant’s name, offering at Malomtó Étterem, II. but the view from a terrace table at c6581-8 Ch01.F 3/18/02 10:48 AM Page 11

BEST DINING BETS 11

Frankel Leó u. 48 (& 1/326- restaurant run by the Hare 2847). See p. 96. Krishnas, comes in a close second • Best Wild Game: At here. See p. 87. Aranyszarvas, I. Szarvas tér 1 • Best Coffeehouse: Múvész (& 1/375-6451)—the restau- Kávéház, VI. Andrássy út 29 rant’s name means the Golden (& 1/352-1337), just across from Stag—enjoy savory venison the Opera House, is a certifiable stew, pheasant, and wild boar. See classic and is open late—the p. 91. perfect location for a coffeehouse. • Best Vegetarian: At Marquis de See p. 98. Salade, VI. Hajós u. 43 • Best Pastries: Our favorite pastry (& 1/302-4086), the cooks from shop is the century-old, utterly around the world prepare an charming little Ruszwurm amazing assortment of delicious Cukrászda, I. Szentháromság u. 7 vegetarian dishes. Govinda, V. (& 1/375-5284), located in Belgrád rakpart 18 (& 1/318- the heart of the Castle District. 1144), the riverside Indian See p. 98.