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Lima APR-08.R5-2 7/9/13 5:04 PM Page 56 CLEVELAND AUGUST 2013_Lima APR-08.R5-2 7/9/13 5:04 PM Page 56 Art, Culture, Dining, and More in… CLEVELAND by Matthew Wexler Photo: Rudy Balasko 56 PASSPORT I AUGUST 2013 CLEVELAND AUGUST 2013_Lima APR-08.R5-2 7/9/13 5:04 PM Page 57 AUGUST 2013 I PASSPORT 57 CLEVELAND AUGUST 2013_Lima APR-08.R5-2 7/9/13 5:04 PM Page 58 cleveland grew up with a chip on my shoulder about Cleveland. Tired of sary, the West Side Market is an architectural wonder designed by Ben- defending my hometown from nomenclatures such as “the mis- jamin Hubbel and W. Dominick Benes. The soaring historic structure is take on the lake,” I eventually gave up and rolled my eyes as if home to more than 100 vendors that feature meats, cheeses, seafood, to say ‘It’s not that bad.’ Well the underdog of the Rust Belt has baked goods, and more. Wander among the stalls, grab a coffee and reinvented itself once again, this time poised to be an interna- homemade pastry, and head to the balcony for a picturesque view of the Itional destination for culture, dining, and innovation. Watch out world, bustling action that becomes denser as the day wears on. Plan your visit Cleveland is back on the map. strategically, as the market is only open four days per week. Of course, ask any Clevelander and they will probably rattle off one Also worth a visit is Ohio City Farm, one of the country’s largest of the city’s various claims to fame. Perhaps it is the prized collection urban farms at nearly six acres and only a mile from downtown. The at the Cleveland Museum of Art, which opened in 1916, or the world- farm features a stand constructed of re-purposed Great Lakes cargo renowned Cleveland Orchestra. Maybe it is Playhouse Square, The shipping containers where you can see the bounty of the season’s har- Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum, or the Cleveland Indians, vest, as well as spectacular views of the city skyline. Browns, or Cavaliers—who no matter how much they win or lose, Ohio City is dotted with artisans of the non-culinary variety as well. attract record-breaking crowds to sporting events year round. Visit Mark Kaplan at the Glass Bubble Project for unique works of art What seems to be breaking the mold is not any singular institution that he refers to as “Clevetion Glass”—a far departure from the delicate or event, but rather a wide-eyed revelation—by locals and visitors Venetian glass from Italy. Using recycled metal and hand-blown glass, alike—acknowledging that there is a hell of a lot happening in this town the purposefully clunky and industrial pieces can be seen at commer- of less than 400,000 residents. For the LGBT community, the Gay cial properties throughout the city or you can register for a glass-blow- Games next year is another feather in the cap of a city whose rainbow ing workshop and create your own. plumage is also gaining international recognition. For a curated collection of Cleveland-inspired products and other Bisected by the curving Cuyahoga River, central Cleveland is home domestic goods, check out R/S Boutique, a charming home and to several thriving neighborhoods where a new generation is choosing design store founded by Danielle DeBoe in 2007. Signature items to live, work, and play. include The District Collection by Arterx, a series of graphic prints that celebrate the city’s urban landscape as well as printed apparel y exploration begins in Ohio City, Cleveland’s “artisan and concert posters by The Bubble Process. The creative forces neighborhood.” Founded in 1818 and an independent munic- behind Arterx and The Bubble Process represent the multi-faceted Mipality until 1854 when it was annexed to Cleveland, the area creative talent burgeoning in Cleveland. Both companies work in an still maintains the vestiges of that entrepreneurial spirit with its anchor unusually broad range of disciplines from advertising, product being The West Side Market. Recently celebrating its 100th anniver- design, and clothing to archival prints. To further celebrate and promote Cleveland’s can-do attitude, Ohio City Street Art DeBoe has put her background in film/TV production, interior design, and visual merchandising to good use to create the local-centric design event “Made in the 216” (inspired by Cleveland’s area code). The annu- al weekend celebration brings together both established as well as up- and-coming local retailers and artisans to showcase their work. The venue changes each year and a rotating roster of DJs maintain a pulsat- ing vibe. In addition, the R/S Boutique features a holiday pop-up shop within the store that launches on Black Friday and runs until New Year’s Eve, featuring a curated collection of locally manufactured products. fter wandering in and out of a few more shops, I take a break for a much-needed sugar rush at the gay-owned Bonbon Pastry Aand Café. Originally opened as a wholesale bakery by pastry chef Courtney Bonning, whose pastries were so popular that she launched the café, which now offers her signature selection of baked goods that includes croissants, scones, monkey bread, as well as more decadent dessert pastries, such as chocolate eclairs, peanut butter trifle, and chocolate soufflé cake. Savory breakfast items like breakfast nachos are served all day and the European-style setting is the perfect spot for a recharge before exploring more of what Cleveland has to offer. If you want to have the full Ohio City experience, consider stay- ing at The Cleveland Hostel. Originally built by the Victor Tea Company then later converted to a furniture warehouse, the 10,000- square-foot property is now a hip minimalist destination for budget- conscious travelers. Mark Raymond founded the property and taps into his experience of traveling to more than 70 countries and his stays in 100 hostels worldwide. His Cleveland outpost features free Wi-Fi, bike rentals, and easy access to Ohio City offerings as well as Photos by: Mathew Wexler public transportation. 58 PASSPORT I AUGUST 2013 CLEVELAND AUGUST 2013_Lima APR-08.R5-2 7/9/13 5:04 PM Page 59 cleveland Photo: Matthew Wexler For the LGBT community, the Gay Games next year is another feather in the cap of a city whose rainbow plumage is also gaining international recognition. During this trip, I opt to stay at the luxurious Ritz-Carlton, Cleveland. during the skyscraper boom of the 1920s and 30s, the soaring structure While not the newest kid on the block (the Aloft Cleveland Downtown just is reminiscent of the beaux-arts Manhattan Municipal Building and opened and Kimpton Hotel Downtown Cleveland is projected to open in from its observation deck you can see up to 30 miles. time for the Gay Games next summer), the 22-year-old property offers the Ritz-Carlton signature service with a smile, panoramic views of Lake Erie f you plan on visiting during the spring, be sure to time your trip to and the Cuyahoga River, marble bathrooms, and a progressive food-and- coincide with the Cleveland International Film Festival, which beverage program spearheaded by Executive Chef Richard Arnoldi and Iscreens within the Tower City’s multiplex cinema. The Festival wel- Food and Beverage Manager Scot Shumaker. comes more than 93,000 visitors and shows approximately 180 films, Various packages are available to personalize your stay. “Be A Rock including a sidebar series dedicated to LGBT subject matter. I happen Star” pairs a relaxing stay featuring deluxe accommodations with a visit to catch a screening of James Franco’s Interior. Leather Bar and am to the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum, and “rocktails”—mar- pleasantly surprised by the sold-out crowd ranging from curious tinis and cocktails inspired by a hit song from each year the hotel has straight couples to gay retirees in leather chaps. been open. For an insider’s look at Cleveland burgeoning farm-to-table If you’re more interested in gambling with your finances rather than scene, book the “Fresh Market” package that includes overnight accom- your wardrobe, be sure to visit Horseshoe Casino. I have mixed emotions modations, breakfast with the chef, and a personalized trip to the West as I approach the $350 million casino that opened in May 2012, as the Side Market followed by a private cooking lesson with the chef and lunch casino embodies what was once the historic Higbee Building—one of the at Muse restaurant. For a gay-specific itinerary, be sure to consult with most glorious department stores of its time. It was a tradition for many the property’s Catering Sales Manager Hollie Ksiezyk, who also happens families (including my own) to head downtown for the store’s annual to be the board co-chair of the forthcoming Gay Games. spring indoor barn display. As a child, I would emerge giddy with laugh- The Ritz-Carlton is directly connected to Tower City Center, a ter and smelling like hay, having spent the afternoon in the petting zoo. landmark of the city’s skyline and a convenient destination for dining Today, the casino’s blings and dings provide a different kind of adults-only and shopping (especially if you’re visiting during one of Cleveland’s entertainment, but the glorious architecture and interior finishes have been brutal winters, which seem to last from November until April). Built restored and embellished for a new generation. AUGUST 2013 I PASSPORT 59 CLEVELAND AUGUST 2013_Lima APR-08.R5-2 7/9/13 5:04 PM Page 60 cleveland If you’re hungry to explore Cleveland’s thriving food scene, wan- icant investment across the board,” says Joe Marinucci, CEO of Down- der over to the East Fourth Street District for some of the city’s town Cleveland Alliance.
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